4x4 Tech Knowledge

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Contents
Tech Articles
01+ Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Install

1996-2004 Fluid Capacity Charts
2001-2004 XtraCab Rear Speaker Access/Removal
2003 Keyless Entry System Upgrade
2005+ Clear Corners
2005+ Factory Service Manual
2005+: Install Trailer Wiring Harness
2005+: Install a Tow Hitch
2005+: Install Toyota VIP System
2005-up Fluid Capacity Charts
3.4L Deckplate Mod
3.4L Supercharger Oil Change Kit Instructions
4Runner Tweeter Pod Install (Pre-01 only)
4x4 Tacoma Grease Locations
95.5-2004: Install Tailgate Lock (Pop & Lock)
Air Compressor Toggle Switch
Air Filter Application Guide
Black-Out Your 05+ Headlight Housings
Change the Backlight Color of Your Gauges
Convert Your Corner Lights to Turn Signals
CV Boot Replacement
Dash Take-Apart Instructions
Disable 2005+ Door Buzzer
Disable the flashing seat belt light
DJM 3/3 and 3/4 Kit Instructions
Do Your Own Quick-Alignment
Don't Bust Your Knuckles. Tap It Out!
Don't Let Your Compressor Drain Your Battery
Door Panel Removal and Recovering
Easy Starter Kill Switch
Engine Service Point Locations (2rz/3rz/5vz)
Extended Frame Rust Coverage Information (95-00 Model Year Tacomas)
Factory Alarm Piezo Buzzer Disable
Flush Your Radiator and Coolant System
Free FMU for 2.4/2.7 Superchargers
Front Differential Drop
Fuel Filter Application Guide
Full Time Power Outlets
Got Bags? Make an Air Bag Fix-It Kit
Grey Wire Mod - Lock Rear Diff in 4Hi
How to Install an Optima Battery
Improve your Fuel Efficency
Increase Your 2003 Keyless Remote Range
Install a 95-97 4x4 Tacoma Bumper on a 98-00 2wd Tacoma
Install a 98-02 4Runner Bumper on a 95-00 Tacoma
Install a Mini Tachometer
Install a Rear Differential Breather Extension
Install a Tachometer
Install a Throttle Body Spacer
Install Aftermarket Coil Springs
Install Aftermarket Intake on a 2.4L Tacoma
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Install An Aftermarket Antenna

Install Door Popper Solenoids for Shaved Door Handles
Install Dynamic Tensioner (Supercharged 3.4L V6)
Installation Instructions for LC Engineering Short Shifter Kit
Installation Manual for Revtek 3 Lift
Installation Manual for TRD 2.4L/2.7L Supercharger
Installation Manual for TRD 3.4L 7th Injector Conversion Kit
Installation Manual for TRD 3.4L 7th Injector Kit
Installation Manual for TRD 3.4L V6 Supercharger
Installation Manual for TRD 4.0L V6 (1GR) Supercharger
Installing Shorter Stops
No Notch? Use Small Stops
Oil and Oil Filter Application Guide
Old Man Emu Lift Install
Paint Your Brake Calipers
Paint Your Chrome Grille
Pinch Weld Mod
Program your factory keyless entry functions
Rear Interior Disassembly (Double Cab)
Remove 4WD Lettering From Your Mud Flaps
Remove Rear Door Panels (Double Cab)
Removing Exterior Badging
Removing Front Door Panels (01-04)
Replace Headlight Bulbs
Replace Your Clutch Pedal Bushings
Replace Your Dash Lights with LEDs (95-04)
Replace Your Front Brake Pads
Replace Your Fuel Filter (3.4L V6)
Replacement Light Bulb Designations (2001 - 2004)
Reset Maintenance Indicator (05+)
Seat Installations I: Transplanting Seats Into Your Truck
Seat Installations II: Installing Aftermarket Seats
Shift Light Install (05+)
Stock Speaker Size Chart
Supercharger Drive Assembly Replacement (3rd gen. S/C)
Suspension Torque Specifications (05+)
The $20 Tacoma Custom Grill
Toggled Door Buzzer
Toyota VIP Keyless/Security Installation Instructions
Toytec Spacer Lift Instructions (05+)
TRD Body Kit Installation Instructions
TRD Exhaust Install Manual for 4x4/Prerunner Extended/DoubleCab
TRD Limited Slip Differential Instructions
Upgrade/Install Map Lights in 95.5-2004 Trucks
Using Zaino Car Detailing Products
Wheel Backspacing and Offset
White-Faced Climate Control Panel
4x4-Specific Tech
CV Boot Replacement
Pinch Weld Mod
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2wd Suspension Tech

Performance Tech
3.4L Deckplate Mod

Interior/Audio Tech

Toggled Door Buzzer
Exterior/Body Tech
2005+ Clear Corners
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Maintenance Tech

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Tech Articles

Things that are needed:
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Additional O2 Sensor (Cannot Use Factory Sensor)
Butt Connectors & 16-18 Gauge Wire (red and black will do)
A Lift If Available(makes install much easier)
I bought a Autometer C2 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (Part #7175) and also a ignition bezel w/o a clock. Cut
a 2 1/16 hole in that then mounted the air/fuel gauge in there.
(http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-012F.JPG)
Instead of just purchasing a O2 sensor from a local parts store, i opted for the autometer O2 sensor
kit which is designed to work with all autometer air/fuel gauges (Part
#2244)(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-2244.jpg)The 2244 kit comes
with 3 wires that consist of a purple wire used to monitor the air/fuel ratio, and a heater positive and
negative wire that helps warm up the 02 sensor so it will give readings faster. Next comes the hard
part. You need to go to a local muffler place (midas, meineke) and have them weld in the O2 sensor.
The O2 sensor must be welded in after where the header is bolted to the exhaust pipe and before
the first catalytic converter. IT MUST NOT be in line with the air/fuel sensor at all! Adding in the
additional O2 sensor will change the flow of exhaust through the pipe. When that flow is altered the
air/fuel sensor may not read properly causing your engine to run poorly and check engine lights may
occur. (picture of the setup coming soon)
Next is running the wires and loom into the cab of the truck. Remove your passenger side door sill
and lift the carpet up just a bit. There should be a grommet on the floor.(if not drill a hole and install
a grommet) I ran the loom/wires from the exhaust pipe through there and then under the dash. Key
note* Wiretie the loom somewhere that is away from the exhaust pipe but not in line with your front
right tire. Bad weather such as snow and ice could get on the loom eventually causing it to break
open and expose wires. Remove the panel below the driver side steering column so its easier to get
to wires.Run the wires under the carpet and close to the firewall(so the passenger shouldnt feel the
loom under the carpet when their feet are on it) You will need to tap a few wires under your dash.
Positive, Accessory, Illumination & Ground. Use a test light to figure out which wires do what. This
part will most likely be different on other trucks because i have a boost gauge as well. My 2 gauges
share the same illumination wire. I tapped the wire coming off of the factory rheostat (dimmer
switch) so when i turn on my headlights, the gauges light as well. If you want to install a dimmer for
just the gauges, you will need a potentiometer/rheostat.
Wiring should be as follows. Toyota rheostat illumiation wire to one post on the aftermarket
potentiometer/rheostat. Other post to illumination wire for air/fuel gauge. YOU CANNOT USE A
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POTENTIOMETER/RHEOSTAT ON THE GROUND OR POSITIVE WIRE FOR THESE GAUGES! Doing so will
limit the amount of voltage to the meter causing it not to work properly. Illumination wire is the
ONLY wire that can be used for dimming purposes. After you finish all of your connections, run motor
and make sure gauge is working properly, turn lights on and off making sure gauge illuminates
correctly. Use electrical tape over any butt connectors/spliced wires to ensure no 2 wires can touch
causing a short. Put back on the panel underneath the steering column and enjoy a nice new air/fuel
ratio gauge.
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-010F.JPG
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/185483-Mvc-007f.jpg
** More work is needed on this article -I'll get to it at some point --Jeff **

Below are charts containing fluid capacity information, divided by engine type and drivetrain type.
Information was collected from Toyota service manuals and owner's manuals. This information only
to be used as a guide. Be sure to always check your owner's manual for fluid capacity specifics.
Engine Oil
2wd
2.4L: Drained with filter
5.8 Qts. (5.5L)
2.4L: Drained, w/out filter
5.0Qts. (4.8L)
5.7Qts. (5.4L)
3.4L: Drained w/out filter
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
4wd
5.7Qts. (5.4L)
5.0Qts. (4.7L)
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5.5Qts. (5.2L)
5.2Qts. (4.9L)
Recommended oil viscosity: SAE 5W-30
Engine Coolant
2wd
2.4L (M/T) (95-97)
5.8Qts. (5.5L)
2.4L (M/T (98-00)
8.5Qts (8.0L)
2.4L (A/T) (95-97)
5.1Qts. (4.8L)
2.4L (A/T) (98-00)
8.2Qts. (7.8L)
3.4L (M/T) (95-97)
5.5Qts. (5.2L)
3.4L (M/T) (98-00)
10.3Qts. (9.7L)
3.4L (A/T) (95-97)
5.2Qts. (4.9L)
3.4L (A/T) (98-00)
10.0Qts. (9.5L)
4wd
2.7L (M/T)
8.8Qts. (8.3L)
2.7L (A/T)
8.7Qts. (8.2L)
3.4L (M/T)
10.7Qts. (10.1L)
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3.4L (A/T)
10.5Qts. (10.0L)
Transfer Case Oil

Drained
1.1Qts. (1.0L)
Oil type: Gear oil API GL-4 or GL-5
Automatic Transmission Fluid

2.4L: Drained
Up to 2.5Qts.(2.4L)
3.4L (2wd): Drained
Up to 1.7Qts. (1.6L)
4WD models: Drained
Fluid type: 2rz - Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III(DEXRON II)
3rz and 5vz - Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV
Manual Transmission Fluid

2.4L: Drained
2.7Qts. (2.6L)
2.7L: Drained
2.6Qts. (2.5L)
3.4L(2wd): Drained
2.7Qts. (2.6L)
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3.4L(4wd): Drained
2.3 Qts. (2.2L)
Oil type: Gear oil API GL-4 or GL5
Differential Oil
2.4L(2wd): Drained
1.4Qts. (1.35L)
3.4L(2wd): Drained
2.7Qts. (2.5L)
4wd Models (w/ ADD)(Front)
1.2Qts. (1.15L)
4wd Models (w/out ADD)(Front)
1.2Qts. (1.1L)
4wd Models w/ Short Wheel Base1
2.8Qts. (2.65L)
2.7Qts. (2.55L)
4wd w/ X-tra Long Wheel Base1
3.1Qts. (2.95L)
2.6Qts. (2.45L)
Oil type: Gear oil API GL-5
1- With rear differential lock system
2- Without rear differential lock system
Fuel Tank
2wd: Capacity (95-00)
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15.1 Gals. (57.0L)

2wd: Capacity (01-up)
16.0 Gals (60L)
18.0 Gals. (68.0L)
18.5 Gals. (70L)

This article contains a detailed writeup contributed by STOCKTRD for accessing the rear speakers in
a 2001 - 2004 XtraCab.
This write up will be a combination of the actual Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) instructions
and what I did for removing all the associated panels to gain access to the
rear speakers on a 2001 Extra Cab. This will be the same for 01-04 models.
This procedure may or may not work for previous year (95.5-2000) Tacomas.
1. REMOVE BACK PANEL UPPER GARNISH AND REAR SEAT BACK
(Garnish = Back Wall - Upper Trim Panel)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.
(b) Remove the 3 bolts and rear seat back.
Torque: 18 Nm (185 kgfcm, 13 ftlbf)
First I removed the upper back trim panel located above the rear seat back. It's the one that has the
small removable panel for the child seat installation. This panel has no screws and just pops out.
I didn't need a screwdriver to get it off. But if you need to use one make sure to wrap it in tape so as
not to scratch anything. After that I unbolted the 3 bolts that hold in the rear seat back. The bottom
of the seat back has hooks attached to the body so you have to pull out and then pull up.
Note: In my pics you can see some duct tape. This is for my alarm's magnetic switch that I have on
my rear sliding window.
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FSM STEP 2
2. REMOVE BACK PANEL LOWER GARNISH
(Garnish = Back Wall - Lower Trim Panel)
Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.
My Step 2
Again I didn't need a screwdriver to get the rear bottom trim panel off.
If you need to use a screwdriver, wrap it in tape.
Remember to take the seat belt latches off the holder on the panel before you pop it out.
To put this panel back in just line up the tabs and pop it on.
FSM STEP 3
3. REMOVE REAR SEAT CUSHIONS
Remove the 4 bolts and rear seat cushions.
My Step 3
I didn't need to remove the rear seat cushions so I left them in.
FSM STEP 4
4. REMOVE QUARTER TRIMS
(a) Remove the 4 screws and scuff plate.
(b) Remove the door opening trim around the quarter trim.
(c) Remove the 2 cover and 2 bolts, disconnect the front seat outer belt.
(d) Using a screwdriver, open the seat belt anchor cover.
(e) Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the rear seat outer belt.
(f) Remove the screw and coat hook.
(g) Using a screwdriver, pry and remove the quarter trim.
My Step 4
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I removed the scuff panel by unscrewing the four screws and slowly prying it up. It is really easy to
break the plastic tabs that hold the panel to the body during removal and installation. It is also easy
to strip out the plastic that the screws attach to during installation. Step B in the FSM says to remove
the "door opening trim" I wasn't not sure what they meant so I didn't do it. Next, I did just as the
FSM states by removing the covers off of the front and rear shoulder belts. A small flat blade with
tape works the best.
As you can see in my pics that the cover on the rear seat belt is attached to itself and doesn't come
off like the front seat belt.
I then removed the bolts holding the front and rear shoulder belts, torque for installation of both
bolts is 31 FT LBS.
The coat hook was then removed just like the FSM says.
I pried the rear trim panel off with my hands - going slowly and making sure I didn't break any of
the black plastic tabs that hold the panel on.
These tabs attach to both the trim panel and the body so you really have to be careful here.
Make sure you watch and listen if any of these tabs fall cause they can get lost in between the foam
in the body channels of the truck.
The next steps are up to you.

After popping the trim panel off and accounting for all the black tabs you can pull the panel back
enough to get access to the rear speaker.
However, I found it difficult to get in the space to get
the speaker out because the rear seat belt tensioner was still attached. I decided to remove it.
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To remove the rear seat belt you take out the bolt on the bottom of the rear tensioner, then
unhook the top hook.
To reinstall the rear seat belt tensioner you hook it on the top then bolt it in. Torque for the bolt is
31 FT LBS. This gave me more room to get to the rear speakers.
To get the rear speakers out you remove the four screws and disconnect the wire connector.
Because I am running an amp to my rear speakers, I removed the entire rear speaker panel with the
speaker attached so it would be easier run my speaker wires to my amp. This was done by
disconnecting the wire connector then taking off the four bolts that held the speaker panel on.
Again, watch the bolts and screws for the rear speaker. Don't tighten them too much or you'll strip
out the plastic. The whole panel just lifts up and out.
Note the two hooks on the top of the panel. Once it's out you can see that Toyota put a piece of
sound dampening material on the body.
Reinstalling everything is the exact opposite of the removal procedure outlined above.
Just remember to be patient when you're putting the trim panel back on. Getting the plastic tabs to
line up is a pain and it took me a few attempts to get it on.

By: Randy Hobart
If you have a 2003 Tacoma equipped with the factory Keyless Entry system, this simple tip will
upgrade it to a fully functional alarm.
(This tip has only been successfully tested on 2003 models - older models may not have the proper
wiring configuration)
When Toyota builds their 2003 Tacoma, the Keyless Entry system is installed with all of the basic
components required for the Alarm upgrade. In fact, the only component that needs to be added is
the glass-breakage sensor. (This is a small dash-mounted component that also includes an LED
warning light)
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The glass-breakage sensor and LED are not required for the Alarm to function.
Follow this simple step to convert the Keyless Entry into an Alarm...
(In the photos, the lower dash panel has been removed for clarity - the lower dash panel does not
need to be removed to access the wiring)
Under the driver-side dash, just to the left of the steering column, locate a single-pin connector and
disconnect it. This connector is taped up to the wiring harness.
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Leave the connector disconnected and re-tape it back against the wiring to secure it.
THATS IT!
A free Alarm upgrade.
A note about the alarm functionality:

This modification converts your keyless entry system into an alarm that functions the same as the
Toyota factory alarm, with the exception of a glass-breakage sensor. The factory alarm is NOT
equipped with a motion sensor or a shock sensor. This means that your alarm will trigger only if:
(1) the doors are forcibly or manually unlocked and opened without the key
(2) power is disconnected (and then re-connected) from the battery
(3) an attempt is made to start the vehicle without the key
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Furthermore, if the alarm is triggered, the security system will disable the starter and continually
attempt to lock the doors if they are unlocked.
This modification is simply a FREE upgrade. If you are in need of a more sophisticated alarm
system, it is recommended that you look into purchasing the actual RS3200 Plus upgrade, or an
aftermarket alarm system.
To test the new modified alarm, perform the following:

Roll down the driver side window.
Activate the alarm by
Press the power lock button in the door, then close the door, OR
Close the door, then lock the doors from the outside with the key, OR
Close the door, then press the LOCK button on the transmitter.
Wait 30 Seconds for the alarm to activate.

Reach in through the window to unlock and open the door.
The alarm should trigger.
To deactivate:
Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter, OR
Unlock the door with the key, OR
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON.
To go one step further, an aftermarket LED light may be added. (Or, the factory LED can be
purchased separately; Toyota part number 08192-3T820)
The lower dash panel will have to be removed to access the proper wiring.
In the first picture above, you will see a wire harness that T's at the base of the steering column and
folds back to the left. The loose end of that wire harness is taped up. Pull the end out where you
can access the unused 4-pin connector. This connector is where the LED/glass sensor gets plugged
in.
There are 4 wires, a black, a white, and 2 colored wires. The 2 colored wires are used for the LED.
You can splice into these 2 wires to connect an LED. (The black and white wires are for the sensor)
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8/26/07
User onelowrx7 suggested that the Toyota LED/Glass breakage sensor could be installed in the
hazard light button location. Here are his notes on installing the sensor and relocating the hazzard
lights button:
The information found in your DIY Alarm Upgrade worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take
it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor
installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:
I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that
its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since
my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch
that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to
relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the
additional 120v power outlets.
Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place
the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male
therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.
First, locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...
(Where the dotted line is – should be about where the wire ends up)
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Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location. Run the unwrapped wire
up to the hazzard button's original location.
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Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the
guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black).
The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK
stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these).
Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side now need to be cut.
They both are male connectors and won’t mate. I chose quick connects, but you can use butt
connectors if you like.
Note: If you're simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff
lock switch or clutch cancel switch is), you're almost done!
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Now on to the Hazard switch. The wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt
connectors, a striper, a crimper, and some extra wire, it can go wherever you like! I chose speaker
wire because it was the right gauge and it actually worked out great. Cut the harness with a couple
inches of lead, and then strip the factory wires and attach your extra lengths.
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You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console - this is pretty easy. I
recommend only wiring one wire at a time; there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness.
I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired two colors backwards. The result was a hazard switch
AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my
wiring and found the culprit. I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean
things up a bit. Here's the finished product:
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2005+ Clear Corners

By: Blangkang (with minor edits by Jeff)
For the all of the 05+ owners out there who hate those ugly orange and dull yellow reflectors, here's
a safe way to remove them and make it a very clean looking headlight. Put aside about 2 hours to
do this because you want to take your time and not rush this.
Tools needed:
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- Basic Oven
- Flat head screw driver
- Phillips head screw driver
- 10mm socket with wrench
First, you need to start with the removal of the stock grill. It's pretty simple: start by removing the
2 top 10mm bolts on the stock grill. Then, use a flat head screwdriver to pop up the black gourmets
that are also on top of the grill. The grill will pull straight up and now that is out of the way. Start
removing all fasteners and 10 mm bolts that are attached to the headlights and grill. You can avoid
lowering the bumper which is a PITA and get to the last headlight bolts from under the truck. You
need to reach up and get the last bolt with a 10mm wrench.
With the headlights out of the truck, you are ready to crack open the housing. Remove all of the
bulbs, plastic caps, and rubber housing behind the H4 bulb, and the 3 hex screws. While you're
doing this, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Before putting in the headlight, TURN OFF OVEN.
DO NOT put headlight directly on top of the oven shelf. Place the headlight onto a piece of
cardboard. A lid from a ream of paper works well.
After 6 minutes, take it out and start to work the lens off with a flat head screw driver. As a tip start
at one end and then use your hands to open the headlight because if a screwdriver is used harshly
you will see the marks.
When the headlight is out of the oven, set the temperature to 450 degrees. You might have to do
this more than once to get the whole lens off. If you can't get the cover completely off, TURN OFF
the oven again and cook it for another 2 minutes. Repeat until complete.
Now that you have the headlight open, you will need to place the lens on a soft surface to make sure
you dont scratch it up. Now that you have the lens face down, remove the 2 hex screws to gain
access to the orange reflectors. Now simply remove the orange and yellow reflectors and start
putting the housings back together.
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Note: Make sure you clean all the parts well before putting everything back together because
nobody likes finger prints, and trust me they will show.
**Tip**: Goo B Gone works great for removing the caulking from the lens if you get smears.
Now that you have reassembled the headlight, throw it back in the oven at 450 degrees and let sit
for about 2 minutes. This will allow you to press the housing back together and still reuse the factory
caulking.
Remove it from the oven and let it sit for about 10 minutes to cool. Once the housing is cool, apply
GE Silicone 2 for windows and doors around the seams. Now, simply re-install the headlight onto the
truck and you're done.
You can also use the Nissan culking which is nice because you can remove it. It will set you back
around $40.
Also a Big thanks to Eyeven for the help and pics.

Here's a couple photos of the final product:
2005+ Factory Service Manual

The 2005+ Toyota Factory Service Manual is here and available for your browsing and downloading
pleasure.
It is broken down into two manuals:
2005+ Repair Manual
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2005+ Wiring/Electrical Manual

Click the link above to view each manual. Each one contains PDF files for each topic. Requires
Adobe Reader to view files.

Here are the instructions for installing a trailer wiring harness on a 2005+ Tacoma. It is
recommended that you install the tow hitch before installing the harness.
View the PDF file >>

Here are the instructions for installing a tow hitch on a 2005+ Tacoma.

Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (TVIP) keyless/security system (RS3200 Plus) into
a 2005+ Tacoma.
View the PDF >>

Engine Oil
2wd Except PreRunner
4.8 Qts. (4.5L)
4.4Qts. (4.2L)
6.1Qts. (5.8L)
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
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4wd and PreRunner

5.5Qts. (5.2L)
5.2Qts. (4.9L)
6.1Qts. (5.8L)
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
Engine Coolant
4.0L
Automatic Transmission
10.1Qts. (9.6L)
Manual Transmission
10.3Qts. (9.7L)
2.7L
9.1Qts. (8.6L)
Manual Transmission
9.1Qts. (8.7L)
Transfer Case Oil

Drained
1.1Qts. (1.0L)
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4-speed: Drain and refill
2.1Qts. (2.0L)
3.2Qts. (3.0L)
Fluid type: Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV (4-speed)

Toyota Genuine ATF WS (5-speed)

2.7L (2wd models): Drained
2.7Qts. (2.6L)
2.3Qts. (2.2L)
4.0L(2wd X-Runner models): Drained
1.9Qts. (1.8L)

Differential Oil
4wd models (Front)
1.6Qts. (1.5L)
4wd and PreRunner (Rear)
3.0Qts. (2.80L)
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2wd (except PreRunner)

3.5Qts. (3.31L)

(models with limited slip require gear oil for limited slip)
Fuel Tank
All Models
21.1 Gals. (80L)
3.4L Deckplate Mod

By: Rob Perin of Wahington TTORA
The theory behind this modification is to make is easier for your engine to take in air. Back in the
good old days, racers would remove the air filter and it's cover when at the track. This made the
intake system less restrictive and when the engine breathes easier, which turns out more power.
However, it is very unwise to offroad without an airfilter. Since the stock Tacoma intake system is
fairly restrictive, this mod gets you the best of both worlds - relatively unrestricted intake with full
filtration. Plus, it enhances the sound.
One word of caution: this mod is not recommended for supercharged Tacomas unless you have
performed some serious fuel system upgrades. The engine breathes quite well with the stock intake
system and opening the airbox contributes to "pinging" with the supercharger.
A deckplate is a simple device originally used for creating an access hole through the bottom of an
aluminum boat. It is basically a circular frame with a removable center.A deckplate can be
purchased at nearly any local boat parts supplier.
This mod can also be done with the 4 cylinder air box, it just takes a bit of work to fit a deckplate
larger than 3" onto the flat side of the box. The procedure is the same.
Parts/Materials Needed:
Stock Airbox
3" or 4" or 5" Deckplate
3/4" Stainless, Pan-head screws
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1 Tube "Sensor Safe" Silicon Sealant
Tools Needed:
Metric Socket Set
Screwdrivers
Drill and Bits
Dremmel or similar tool suitable for cutting 1/4" plastic
Towels
Sharpie Marking Pen
Estimated Time: less than 1 Hour

Procedure:
First, you'll need to remove the factory air box. There are 3 12mm bolts holding the air box in place.
Additionally, you'll need to remove any vacuum hoses that are attached to the air box.
The factory air box still installed...
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... and a view of the area after the airbox is removed.
Once you have the airbox out, place the deckplate against the front side of the box and trace around
the hole with a Sharpie marking pen. I used a 4", black deckplate, purchased from a boat parts
counter. I offset the deckplate slightly to the passenger side to better clear the washer fluid neck for
ease of removal/install.
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Once you have the deckplate traced on the box, you need to remove enough material to pop the
deckplate in. I drilled a starter hole, then used the Dremmel to cut the opening.
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You may need to trim a bit of material away to enlarge the hole before fitting the deckplate. You
want the hole to be a snug fit, but a bit of irregularity in your cutting will be covered by the flange on
the deckplate itself.
Once the hole is suitable, mark the screw holes with the sharpy and remove the deckplate. Drill pilot
holes for the stainless-steel screws. Before you reinsert the deckplate, place a continuous bead of
\"sensor-safe\", black, silicon around the inside of the flange, align the screw holes and fit the
deckplate to the airbox. If the silicon is not \"sensor-safe,\" you will need to leave your airbox out of
the truck for at least 24 hours or you will get a \"Check Engine\" light from the fumes coming off the
sealant messing with the MAF sensor.
Insert the screws and tighten them down.
Here's what the air box looks like with the deckplate installed:
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Plate out
Plate in
All that is left is reinstalling the airbox into the truck. Go slow and take your time so that you don't
miss anything.
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Tip: For even better air flow, many owners have found that replacing the factory filter with an
aftermarket one such as a K&N or Amsoil filter will also help with performance.
Operation is simple: Plate out for street and dry off-road; plate in for puddles, small lakes and wet
off-road. The first time you drive it with the plate out, you will hear the difference - the engine
sounds stronger. There seems to be a slight horsepower increase, but there are't any dyno results
confirming this. Some folks have also reported an increase in mileage of a few MPG, others have
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reported a loss of a few MPG. The beauty of this mod is that if you are not content with having a hole
in your airbox, you can simply leave the deckplate installed, which functions as a stock unit.

Here are the instructions for the TRD oil change kit for supercharged 3.4L V6 engines (5VZ-FE).
View PDF file >>

<img align=right src=files/4runnerpods/podshot.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>
Many Tacoma enthusiasts are audiophiles, or at least want better, more accurate sound from their
sound system. Installing a good set of component speakers can quickly and easily improve your
Tacoma's stereo. One of the problems we all face is the fact that there are no easy places to mount
the tweeters that come with a component speaker system. However, someone recently discovered
that factory 4Runner tweeter pods will easily mount in any Tacoma, due to the fact that the interior
of the two trucks is so similar. Below is a detailed account of my experience installing factory
4Runner tweeter pods in my 1999 2wd Tacoma.
Order Parts:
Go to your local Toyota dealership and order a set of 98-00 Toyota 4Runner door plastics for the
model with the 6-speaker sound system. Here is the actual part number and description:
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/pods_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>
Part #: 67492-35010-CO
Description: Garnish, FR Door LWR
Part #: 67491-35010-CO
You'll need to order 1 of each of the parts above. One is for the driver's door, the other is for the
passenger door. I'm not sure which is which, since I've already installed them. The price should be
somewhere around $20 each.
Installation:
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The tweeters that I installed in the pods are 3/4 Rockford Fosgate Fanatic X series tweeters. It
appears as though 3/4 is about the largest tweeter you can squeeze into these pods, but you may be
able to fit a 1 tweeter in there.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/compare_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>First, remove

your factory door triangle pieces and compare them to your new 4Runner pieces. You'll probably
notice that the two aren't exactly the same. The 4Runner plastics are a little taller and cause the
plastic snaps to not line up. I cut about 1/4 off of the bottom of each of the pods with a hack saw to
make them fit. I used a Dremmel tool to smooth the edges when I was done. I'll cover these pieces
later with some material to cover up the semi-rough looking edges.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/snap_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Also, if you

compare the round snaps that attach the pod to the door, you'll notice that there is a clear plastic
boot on the snap on the new piece. This boot will need to be removed in order for the snap to fit in
the Tacoma's mounting hole. See photo for more detail.
<img align=right src=files/4runnerpods/bare_door_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Next,

you'll need to mount your tweeters in the pods. Since there is no built-in way to do this, I used
packing tape to hold the tweeters in there (Shhh, don't tell anybody). I have yet to see if this will
hold. I may need to use something else. Also, don't forget to attach a long enough speaker wire to
reach all the way down through your door and into the cab to your crossover unit.
Next, I removed the entire door panel and door speaker mount so that I could feed the speaker wire
through the boot and into the cab. Feeding the wire in through this boot was about the hardest part
of this installation. I found a straightened coat hanger works really well for this.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/finished_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Next, I

connected the speaker wire to my crossover, re-installed my door panel, and I was done! It took me
almost two hours to do the first one (mostly because I had to trim the 4Runner pods) and only about
an hour to do the second one.
Best of all, they sound and look great!!
JEFF
Here is a great link for this article... I'm guessing you'll need to get permission to use the info.
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http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/lube/

Here are the instructions for installing a Pop & Lock tailgate lock for 1995.5-2004 Tacomas.

Don't Let Your Compressor Drain Your Battery
By: Randy Hobart
<IMG hspace=8 src=files/tip003.gif align=right vspace=7 border=1> For those of you with air
suspension systems, I'm sure you have a compressor setup that includes a pressure switch. The
pressure switch automatically turns the compressor on or off when pressure in the air tank reaches
specific levels. This is a nice system that basically takes care of itself. However, there are some of us
who prefer to have a little more control over the situation. It's not uncommon that air will slowly leak
from the air lines somewhere in the system, which will activate the compressor. This normally isn't a
problem, but it is possible that it could easily run down your battery if it happens too often, say,
overnight. For starters, you could mount a manual toggle switch somewhere inline.
To go one step further, I wanted to have a lighted toggle switch that let me know when the
compressor was running by being lit up.
By leaving the toggle switch on, the pressure switch is free to regulate the pressure in the air tank.
Also, the light in the toggle switch would come on whenever the pressure switch came on, letting me
know that the compressor was on.
By turning the toggle switch off, even with the pressure switch on, the compressor would not kick
on. This is handy if your ride is going to sit for a while, so that the compressor doesn't kick on
unnecessarily.
The lighted switch needs to be mounted in the line between the pressure switch and the
compressor.
From the battery (+) wire to the pressure switch (either prong is + or -). The other prong on the
pressure switch to the toggle switch. Then the toggle switch to the compressor. Make sure all
components are grounded properly (the pressure switch is grounded to the toggle switch).
See illustration for more detail. Note: not all toggle switches have the same wiring scheme; make
sure to identify each prong's circuit.
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Below is an air filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size:
Manufacturer
2.4L/2.7L 4cyl.
3.4L V6
Amsoil
TS117
TS115
Purolator
A24645
A34886
Fram
CA6690
CA7626
NAPA - Gold
FIL 6162
FIL 6109
NAPA - Silver
SFI 26162
Toyota Genuine
17801-35020-83
17801-07020
Toyota TRD
00602-17801-005
00602-17801-002

By: 00yota4x4 (with minor edits by Jeff)
Many custom vehicle enthusiasts in recent years have begun painting their headlight housings
black. After all, what looks good on a BMW or Mazda looks good on other vehicles, right? Below is a
quick write-up on painting your 2005+ Tacoma headlights black for that "euro" look. This article
applies to all 05+ Tacomas including 4x4s and X-Runners.
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Tools needed:
- A conventional oven, cookie sheet, cardboard
- Black spray paint (I used Krylon Fusion)
- Socket set
First, you must take the headlights out. You will need to remove the grill and the small body-colored
piece below the lights. This should be very easy.
There are 4 bolts for the headlights. 2 are up top, 1 is at the bottom inside corner. The bumper
hides it a little but you can get it out. The 4th must be accessed from under. As you see in the pic is
where the 4th bolt is
Once the lights are out, remove everything off of them. All of the plastic pieces, all of the lights and
rubber things and 3 hex screws must be removed. Make sure not to mess with the adjustment
knobs. I took off the top weather strip, but others say you can leave it on.
Once you have stripped the headlight housings, it's time to bake them in the oven so that the lens
can be easily removed. They must be done one at a time. Place each headlight on a cookie sheet
with foil or a peice of cardboard to prevent the headlight from melting against the cookie sheet.
As far as temperature, I found that 305 degrees for about 9 minutes works well. Remember, preheat
the oven and then once you put the light in there, turn the oven off. While baking try to avoid
opening the oven to check on the light. This will prolong the heating process.
At this time and temperature, the lens should pry apart from the housing on the first try. Just take
your time and don't rush anything. This is not something that just peels apart super easy. I didn't
use any tools. I just used my hands and started in a corner where its easy to grab both parts. I also
had a buddy helping me pry it apart slowly.
Once apart, remove the 2 hex screws in the plastic piece in the lens. Pull out the bezel. Pop out the
orange marker and the turn signal lens.
I used Krylon Fusion paint. No primer is needed and its designed to bond to plastic and is pretty
strong from what I've read.
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To prep the area to paint, I used a scotch brite pad to scuff it up a little bit just to take a little extra
measure. Then, I cleaned it off with glass cleaner. I wore gloves so I would not get any oils back on
the surface.
Paint away and take your time and don't put on thick coats. It took me about 25 minutes per
headlight to paint it using light coats. This will help prevent runs and drips.
After painting, let each one dry for about 20 minutes.

I still didn't touch the painted surface and I carried them from behind while moving them. Also, be
VERY CAREFUL putting the marker lights back in, if you choose to do so. The paint is not fully chipresistant for 7 days.
Next, put the 2 pieces back in the oven at 300 degrees for 5 minutes to get the caulk soft. I also
used silicone window/door to put in the seam of the housing. Then, I pressed it back together
tightly. put the hex screws in and popped the tabs in place. After that I put another bead of silicone
all the way around the seams again.
Now, install the headlight assembly back into the truck. Also, that 4th bolt that is underneath:
SCREW IT. I still haven't put it back in and the light does not budge with 3 bolts.
I hope everyone that tries it has a good outcome. Just take your time. It took me about 4 hours.
Below is a before/after photo:

By: AFP520
<img src=files/110-gauges.jpg border=1>
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First, to access your instrument cluster, follow the

Dash Take-Apart Instructions.
Once you have access to the back side of your instrument cluster, you will find (4) 194 bulbs. Simply
swap out those bulbs with any 194 type you want.
I used Polarg B1 Hybrid 194 Xenon bulbs and I am very pleased with the results.
Before putting your dash all back together, I recommend testing the lights to make sure they work.
Also, don't forget to hook the dimmer switch back up. Otherwise, the lights won't work at all.

By: D
<img border=1 align=right vspace=7 hspace=8 src=files/tip008.jpg>

Here's a tip to convert your corner lights to blinkers.
First, get Ford 1157 sockets with a ground tap and use a dremel tool to make the opening bigger.
Next, slap in the 1157 socket and secure all around it with
silicon sealant. Tap the hi current (blinker) to the bumper light's power wire with T taps, then tap
the steady to the original parking lights that were existing in the corners.
Ground the tab and you have useful blinking corners.
CV Boot Replacement
By: Ched Hurley
With only one CV joint (inner) being rebuildable on the Tacoma front axle shafts, Toyota sells the
boots in a kit. In the kit you get both inner and outer boots, boot clamps, c-clips, and grease.
everything needed to replace the boots. Since the newer trucks mostly have ADD (Automatic
Disconnecting Differential) versus manual hubs, I'll cover the ADD axles. The manual hubs aren't all
that much different and anyone with basic mechanical knowledge can figure out how the cam in a
manual hub works. That is if they pay attention to the indexing splines.
After securing your Tacoma on jack stands, remove the front wheels. This allows ample room inside
the wheel well to access the shafts. Now that you have all the access needed to remove the shafts,
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let's start the teardown.

Remove the hub dust cover. These are sometimes tight. I use a chisel and hammer to start it and
once the lip moves back enough to fit a wide flathead screwdriver in, I pry it off.
Remove cotter pin from the axle, slide the thin metal axle nut cover off the axle nut, and remove
axle nut using a 36mm socket.
Now the axle is ready to slide out the back of the spindle but first we need to separate the lower ball
joint...
Remove the four bolts on the lower control arm that hold the flange of the bottom ball joint together.
(To keep the lower control arm from separating with the force of the compressed spring on the strut
I use a small floor jack to support the lower control arm. Once the 4 bolts are removed, I let the jack
down slowly until the strut is fully extended.)
Pull the bottom of the spindle outward and slide it off the shaft. Once off the shaft, go ahead and
position it out of the way, the best you can. (I position them to the rear of the wheel well.) Here's
where a choice of methods come in. You can either remove the entire shaft assembly from the
differential or remove just the axle and outer joint from the tripod joint. I prefer to remove the entire
shaft because I find it's easier to install the inner boot but this requires draining and refilling the
differential. Since removing the entire shaft cost about an extra $15 to $20 in fluid, and the front
differential being awkward to fill, I'll cover the method of separating the axle from the tripod joint.
Cut the inner boot entirely around its circumference. This will allow the axle to slide out of the tripod
joint with a slight tug.
The next step is to remove the tripod bearing from the shaft. This allows the boots to be able to be
installed by sliding over the shaft. To remove the tripod bearings, remove the c-clip holding the
tripod bearing on the shaft. (It's the bigger one of the two in the kit.)
Slide tripod bearing down shaft until the enclosed retaining c-clip is exposed. (It's the smaller one of
the two in the kit.)
Remove the inner retaining c-clip and slide the tripod bearing up and off the shaft. Now that you
have the shaft completely broken down, all that's left before reassembly is cutting the old boots off
and thoroughly cleaning the exposed joints.
Once clean, repack the outer joint putting the excess grease into the new outer boot. Slide boot over
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shaft and install over joint.
Burp the boot. Try to get all the air you can out of the boot. (It might help to use a small screwdriver
to pry on the lip of the boot with one hand while squeezing the boot with the other hand.)
Clamp the boot on tight.
Slide the inner boot down onto the axle. DO NOT clamp the boot as it needs to be indexed with the
flat sides if the tripod joint first!!
Now it's time to install the tripod bearing you just worked so hard to remove. Slide the tripod bearing
on shaft until the inner retaining c-clip groove is exposed and install c-clip.
Slide tripod bearing up until the splines hit the inner c-clip and it will no longer slide (this should
expose the big c-clip groove) and install c-clip.
Pack both the tripod bearing and tripod joint (still in the diff.) with grease.
Slide shaft back into the tripod joint on the differential.
Index and slide boot into place.
Clamp smaller ring of boot tight.
Burp inner boot.
Clamp bigger ring around the boot on the tripod joint.
Slide spindle over axle.
Using floor jack, jack up the lower control arm into the spindle and align bolt holes in bottom ball
joint flange. Install the four bolts and tighten.
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Install axle nut and tighten using 36mm socket.
Install axle nut cover and cotter pin.
Install hub dust cover.
Install wheel, tighten, and remove vehicle from secure jack stands.
Clean up tools, work area, and yourself. Go Wheelin'!

By: MTB_taco, MadAktion, Jeff
These instructions will help you take your dash apart to gain access to the instrument cluster and
stereo receiver. Always pay attention to the disassembly procedure to remember how to reassemble the dash.
Tools Needed:
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Phillips Head
Screwdriver
Small
Hook
Tool
Stubby
OR
Flat Head
Screwdriver
Phillips Head
Screwdriver
10mm Nut
Driver or
Socket
1: Remove all of the temperature control knobs, including the A/C button (95-00 models).
Using a small hook or a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pull the control panel straight out. It will pop
out with a slight tug.
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2: Remove two phillips head screws from behind temperature control panel.
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3: Remove ashtray and remove the phillips head screw on upper right side
4: Carefully remove center black dash molding. This can be easily done by grabbing the
plastic between the vents and the temperature controls and pulling toward you and slightly down. It
will pop out with a slight tug.
5: Disconnect the air bag harness, if applicable.
At this point, you have access to the stereo receiver. The stereo brackets are attached using 4
10mm bolts. These bolts also have a phillips head, but it is recommended that you use a 10mm
socket to remove them.
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If you wish to gain access to the instrument cluster, continue reading...
6: Remove the (4) 10mm nuts from the dash molding below the steering wheel. Unscrew the
Phillips screw under the left vent.
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7: Remove 2 phillips screws that hold the hood release mechanism in place. Manuver the
hood release lever free from the dash molding. (The hood release lever may be left in place for the
dash panel to lay in the floorboard, if desired)
8: Carefully pull off the panel. There are clips holding the left side, which will pop off with a
slight tug. If you are accessing the instrument cluster, this panel does not need to be completely
removed, but rather just dropped down.
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9: Now, remove the clock and keyhole panel. It will pop straight off with a slight tug.
10:Next unscrew the black trim around the gauges. There are two screws under the upper
panel of the gauge trim panel. This is where the stubby Phillips head screwdriver comes in handy.
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11: Next pull the gauge trim out. Pull gently and take care not to pull too hard. If you have a tilt
steering wheel, make sure it is tilted all the way down. There are several clips that will pop out with
a slight tug.
12: As you pull the gauge trim panel out, disconnect any applicable accesory harnesses:
hazard flashers, ECT, clutch start cancel, rear locker, and the dimmer switch.
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13: Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. There are two on
each side.
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14: Pull the instrument cluster partially out and disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses and
remove cluster
To gain access under the dash on the passenger side, remove the 2 Phillips head screws just
beneath the glove box. Unlatch the glove box and take it out.

By: slamdtaco
This article will explain how to disable the interior door buzzer that sounds when your door is open
with the key on. Please note: If you perform this modification, you will also be disabling the
(manual transmission) reverse beep notification, and you will also lose the seatbelt buzzer.
Tools needed:
- Pliers
- Phillips screwdriver
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- Metric socket set
First, remove the screws located above the gauges as seen here.
Pull the kick panel towards you to uncover the bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the plastic
piece out just a little to make it easier to remove the dash piece above it.
out.
Gently, but firmly pull the dash piece that surrounds the gauges towards you until it pops
You may find it easier to move it out of the way if you remove the clips on the back first.
Next, remove the 4 screws that hold the gauges in place.
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Pull the guage towards you and unplug the 2 wiring harnesses on the top of it.
Pull the gauge cluster out and turn it over. Remove the 3 screws in the back of it.
It will look like this with the cover removed. The buzzer is circled in the photo.
I used a pair of pliers and gently turned the round buzzer until it broke off. I have also
been told (by user amber00dak) that you can run a bead of 100% silicone around the bottom of the
buzzer and some in the hole on the top. It will still make noise, but with the radio on you can't hear
it.
Finally, the annoying buzzer is gone. Put all pieces back and you are ready to leave the door open
and enjoy your music.
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IMPORTANT! ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SEATBELT!
This mod is strictly for disabling the flashing light - not intended for operating your truck without
wearing your seatbelt. This mod is only posted due to frequent inquiry.
For whatever reason, you may wish to disable the flashing fasten seat belt light in your dash. Here is
a very quick and simple solution.
Underneath the driver seat, there is a set of wires that connect to the seat belt latch. Just beneath
the carpet, the wire is connected with a connector. Simply unplug the connector.
To reverse the mod, re-connect the connector.
Alternate procedure for Power Lumbar Seats:

For those of you who have the luxury of power lumbar seats, disconnecting the wires will disable
your lumbar. As an alternative, locate the 2 wires leading to the seat belt latch, at the side of the
seat. Cut one of the wires to disable the light. It is highly recommended to install protective quickdisconnect butt-connectors to the ends of the snipped wires for easy re-activation. Additionally, it is
recommended to apply electrical tape to the ends of the disconnected wires.

Download DJM's official installation instructions for the 3/3 and 3/4 drop kits in PDF format.

By: Randy Hobart

Chances are, you won't be able to get your truck lowered at an alignment shop... which makes it
inevitable that you will have to drive your freshly lowered truck some distance to get it aligned. The
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trouble is, your alignment will be off after adjusting the height of the suspension and if you have to
drive more than a few miles to the shop, you'll probably end up thrashing your tires on the way
there. Here's a quick and simple way to align your front end so that the wear on your tires won't be
near as bad.
Turn your wheels straight ahead, with the steering wheel straight. Using a measuring tape, take
measurements from the front of the tires and compare the measurement with the rear of the tires.
Adjust your steering rods until the two measurements are as close as possible.
Although this method will help save your tires, this isn't the most accurate way to align your wheels,
so be sure to get them aligned by a professional in the near future.

By: Randy Hobart
<img border=1 align=right vspace=7 hspace=8 src=files/tip006.gif>

When installing new upper control arms (either with the DJM kit or a 4wd kit), you must remove the
mounting shafts from the control arms. This can be a long and quite painful experience. But it
doesn't have to be.
Try this: Stick a junk bolt thru the mounting shaft and prop the control arm in a vice,
using the bolt as a lever. Use a screwdriver and mallet to tap around the edge
of the bushing, working around the edge.
Your factory bushings may still get mangled, but your hands most likely won't.

By: Randy Hobart

For those of you with air suspension systems, I'm sure you have a compressor setup that includes a
pressure switch. The pressure switch automatically turns the compressor on or off when pressure in
the air tank reaches specific levels. This is a nice system that basically takes care of itself. However,
there are some of us who prefer to have a little more control over the situation. It's not uncommon
that air will slowly leak from the air lines somewhere in the system, which will activate the
compressor. This normally isn't a problem, but it is possible that it could easily run down your
battery if it happens too often, say, overnight.
For starters, you could mount a manual toggle switch somewhere inline.
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unnecessarily.
The lighted switch needs to be mounted in the line between the pressure switch and the compressor.

By: lifetrddeath
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/toolsusedsm.jpg border=0>

Click Picture to Enlarge
First a list of items I used to accomplish the task:
- Ratchet bit driver with Philips bit
- small allen wrench
- 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
- Your choice of fabric
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- 1/8, 1/16 foam or craft batting
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/parts1sm.jpg border=0>

Your first step involves removing the following:
-
door handle (2 screws)

the screw from the door latch
the Omega pin and window crank and clear disk
the black triangle piece with the mirror handle
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/handlesm.jpg border=0>

To remove the door handle, used a philips screw driver and lossen up the two long screws holding it
in. Then pull from the door.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/latchscrewsm.jpg border=0>

To unsecure the door latch, loosen and remove the screw with a philips. Then push the latch
towards the front of your vehicle to lossen it from the clips ont he inside. The latch itself cannot be
removed.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/cranksm.jpg border=0>

To remove the window crank, I pried the crank back with my flathead screw driver (it should allow
you to see the Omega pin), then with a very small allen wrench, I pushed the Omega pin out. Now
pull the window crank from the door along with the clear disk.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/trianglesm.jpg border=0>

To remove the black triangle piece, first you must loosen and remove the screw holding the mirror
handle in. DO so with a philips. Then, with some effort, pull the mirror handle out and away. Next,
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take your flathead, and pry off the black triangle. I should come off pretty easily.header.
With a flathead screwdriver, pry between the door panel and the door and pop out the 12 white
plastic fasteners. Just get the screwdriver really close to one (if you pry back and look close you can
see them) and pry it out, they should pop out without breaking.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/nopanelsm.jpg border=0>

Now to remove the panel from the door. Place a hand where the black triangle was, and pull the
panel away from the door to clear the screws showing and the lift up. It should now be loose. Lift up
on the other side to clear the lock swtich. Now to clear the door latch, first push the latch towards
the front of your truck, after its loose just kind of twist it sideways and push it through the hole...
your door panel should now succesfully be removed from your door.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/tabssm.jpg border=0>

Your first step to braking down your door panel is to remove the 12 white fasteners, which slide ride
out, and also the 7 philips screws holding the door pocket and speaker grill on.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/tabs2sm.jpg border=0>

With the plastic door pocket piece now removed, you'll want to seperate the main panel from the top
armrest piece. It is attached with 5 or 6 metal tabs that are bent over. Just pry them up and then
remove.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/sealtabssm.jpg border=0>

Now that that piece is removed, you need to remove the black window seal that runs along the top
of it. It's held on with 5 or 6 similar tab style things. Just pry them up and remove.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelapartsm.jpg border=0>

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You should now be at the point where you can rip off all the old fabric and vinyl. Just peel up the
edges on the back side and start ripping. Take care not to actually rip aything though, you'll need
these pieces for templates.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelfoamsm.jpg border=0>

When you ripped the fabric off, you should have noticed that there is a foam like material between
the panel and the fabric. Since it comes off with the fabric, you'll need to get either 1/8, 1/16 foam
sheets or just buy a yard or two of batting from your local fabric store. Place your panel ontop of the
batting or foam and cut out a piece slightly larger, but to the same shape as your panel.
Now, in a controlled, well ventilated area, spray your penal board with 3M Super 77 (or higher, ie
90). Lay down your foam or batting on top of the board and firmyl secure it. It should be
immediately stuck and secure. Now you'll want to trim the excess foam or batting by cutting with
scissors along the edges of the board.
Time to cut your first fabric. Position the gray stock fabric piece (the one where the window crank
and handle were) on top of the fabric you selected to replace the stock one. I chose gray velour.
Again, as with the foam, cut out the shape of the fabric, but give a little to make sure you can secure
it firmly to the back of the board.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelbacksm.jpg border=0>

Again, in a well ventilated area, spray the back of your fabric, and firmly press it down on top of the
foam. Then, flip your board over, spray the edges of the board and the fabric, and then fold the
fabric over the edges of the board and secure them to the back. The fabric will probably stick very
quickly with the 3M stuff and your hands are gonna get all glue-y.
*If you want, to secure even better, use short, strong staples (ones that won't go all the way
through) and staple the fabric on the back. Another way us to use run it through a sewing machine
so the fabric is sewn into the panel.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/notstraightsm.jpg border=0>

Don't worry about your bottom edge not being straight on the front. It can be as jagged as you want
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because it will be being covered by your other fabric.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redcutsm.jpg border=0>

Now take the stock vinyl from the bottom portion of the panel and use it as a template to cut your
other material. I went with red leather. As always, be sure to leave extra around the edges so you
can secure it to the back.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redfoldsm.jpg border=0>

This is one of the tricky parts. You need to create a rather straight, smooth seem at the top. I used
the stock piece to draw a outline on the back of the leather so I could see the shape of what need to
be made. You'll need to spray the back of the fabric, and fold it over and glue it to itself. The glue
may have to sit a second before attempting or it won't stick. Another option would to use a similar
color thread and use a sewing machine to sew the seem tight and straight.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redgluesm.jpg border=0>

Once that is nice and dry and not coming apart, it's time to lay it on the door panel and glue it down.
As always, in your ventilated area, spray back of the folded seem well with the glue, continue to
spray the rest of the back of the leather. Then lay it down on top of the panel, just overlapping the
gray area by maybe 1/8 to 1/4 and firmly press down to secure it. Now it's time to flip it over and do
the back.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redonsm.jpg border=0>

Hopefully you had plenty of extra on the edges to streatch tight and fold over the back of the panel.
Spray the glue on the panel and give it your damndest to streatch out the ripples and keep creases
from forming on the corners and curved edges. It should now look similar to this.
* It may be a good idea, when dealing with a thicker material like leather, to staple down the
material near corners and edges along the back to keep warm weather from releasing the glue.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/armrestsm.jpg border=0>

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Near the end now. You'll need to strip the vinyl material from the door armrest. It just takes peeling
up the corners on the inside and skinning the thing. Try and leave the foam underneath in place.
It's good foam, no need to ruin!
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/armrest2sm.jpg border=0>

Use that just removed vinyl to get a good idea of the size of leather you'll need to cut. After that,
place the armrest on top of the your material with the backside facing up. You'll notice the 6 tabs
there, they should punch right through your leather or other material with a little force. (Look close
at the picture, the black arrows point to the tabs.)
Now, glue the metal on the backside (don't spray glue on the foam area) and tightly pull from both
sides and glue to the back of the armrest. This piece can be a little difficult, but take your time so
secure all the way around and make clean edges.
When that is ready and dry, replace the door lock hole (you'll need to punch a hole for it in the
leather) and also put the black window seal back on. Again, the tabs on the window seal should
punch right through your fabric with a little force.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/pocketonsm.jpg border=0>

Now you should replace the plastic door pocket/speaker grill piece. Line it up with the holes in the
back and drive the screws through. If you used batting instead of foam, this will be a huge pain
because the batting will curl all over the screw before it gets through and could brake the areas the
screw need to enter. So be careful. You may need to back out the screw and with a Leatherman, or
Gerber tool, pick ou the material before proceeding. When that is firmly secure with the 7 screws, it
should look something like this.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/attachsm.jpg border=0>

Last major step. You need to re-attach the top armrest to the door panel. The 6 tabs you punched
through the armrest now need to lineup and be pushed through the slots on the door panel. These
may be covered up now by the first fabric you layed down, so just push them through, and bend
them over the back of the panel to secure.
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<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/finishedsm.jpg border=0>

Replace all the little white plastic clips (12 of them) to their homes on the back of the panel and you
should now have it ready to put back on your truck. Go outside, and just reverse the steps for taking
the panel off for putting it back on. You're new door panel looks great! Good job!

By: Blangkang
Most good anti-theft systems have one common feature: starter kill. This feature alone is enough to
prevent a vehicle from getting stolen, or at least slow the the thief down or frusterate him until he
gives up.
On Tacomas equipped with a manual transmission, there is a clutch sensor that tells your ECU if the
clutch is being depressed so it can start the engine. If you disconnect that sensor, the truck won't
start. So, the idea is to create a switched circuit that can be toggled to create a homemade starter
kill system.
This tech article described how to install such a security upgrade on an 05' Tacoma X-Runner.
Please note that the wiring locations/directions will most likely be different on pre-05 models.
Tools needed:
- a toggle switch
- Amount of 16-18g wire need to run the switch to your location
- Handful of wire connects / solder gun & solder
- Electrical tape and black wire loom
- Wire cutters/strippers
The first step in this process is to find a secret location for your switch. It is a good idea to put the
switch somewhere that is not obvious but easily accessible.
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Next, you are going to locate the clutch sensor that's just left of your clutch. The wire you're going
to cut is the BLACK and BLUE.
With the wire cut, connect both cut ends to the new wires that leads to your switch. Make sure your
connections are soldered or made with secure wire connectors. You don't want this connection to be
undependable.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/01.jpg>
Make sure you protect the wires with electrical tape. Also, it may be a good idea to put black wire
loom on your new wire leads to make the installation appear stock.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/02.jpg width=250 height=191><img border=1

src=files/05_theft/03.jpg width=250 height=191>
Operation is simple: When you exit your truck, simply turn the switch off. Before you attempt to
start your truck, simply turn the switch back on.
I know this is not going to STOP someone who wants to steal your truck - if they want it that bad
they will get it. But this easy modification will either stop or delay them.

Not sure where to add brake fluid or windshield washer fluid? Check out the drawings below to help
you service your engine:
2.4L & 2.7L (2rz & 3rz) Engines:

<img border=1 width=500 src=files/2rz_engine.gif>
3.4L (5vz) Engines:

<img border=1 width=500 src=files/5vz_engine.gif>

Toyota has received isolated reports regarding a small number of 1995 through 2000 model year
Tacoma
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vehicles exhibiting excessive rust corrosion to the frame causing perforation of the metal. Toyota has
investigated these reports and determined that the vehicle frames in some vehicles may not have
adequate
corrosion-resistant protection. This combined with prolonged exposure to road salts and other
environmental factors may contribute to the development of excessive rust corrosion in the frames
of some
vehicles. This is unrelated to and separate from normal surface rust which is commonly found on
metallic surfaces after some years of usage and/or exposure to the environment.
Although the vehicle’s frame is covered by Toyota’s New Vehicle Limited Warranty for
3 years or 36,000
miles (whichever comes first), we at Toyota care about the customer’s overall experience and
confidence in
their vehicle. To assure our customers that we stand behind the product, we are providing an
extension of
the warranty coverage on certain 1995 through 2000 model year Tacoma vehicles for perforation of
the
vehicle’s frame caused by rust corrosion. This warranty extension will be offered for a period
of 15 years
with no mileage limitation from the vehicle’s in-service date, for this specific condition.
The owner notification will commence in mid-March 2008.
Below are the vehicle inspection and warranty policy files Toyota has been distributing to their
dealers:
- Vehicle Inspection Procedures
- Warranty Policy Information
Ongoing owner discussion about this issue is taking place in the CustomTacos.com Forum in this
thread:
http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109436
By: Randy Hobart

Before I ever got my new Tacoma home from the dealership, there was already something I wanted
to change. I'm sure some folks don't mind this, or perhaps don't even care, but I simply can't stand
the beeeep that sounds when the factory alarm is armed and disarmed.
The official term for this component is the piezo buzzer. On some earlier models, there is a
programming function that disables the piezo. However, on newer models (2001-2004) with the
RS3200 system, the programming function is not applicable. I even went as far as to ask the
dealership if there was a way to turn it off. Nope, you can't turn it off. That simply wasn't good
enough for me, so I was compelled to figure it out on my own.
The piezo buzzer is located under the hood, between the battery and the driver side fender. You will
most likely need to loosen the battery to get your hand in between. There is a little tweeter looking
device connected to the wiring harness - it may or may not be wrapped with thin foam padding.
Simply unplug the piezo connector to disable it. For added protection, I would advise that you use
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electrical tape to cover the exposed connectors.

<img width=300 border=1 src=files/piezo.jpg border=1>
Now you can enjoy your alarm in peace. This component is the same for both the keyless entry
system and the fully functional alarm system for 2001-2004 Tacomas. Some models may differ - you
can try the following instructions to see if your system accepts the programming before
disconnecting the piezo.
The aforementioned method most likely may not work for 95-00 models (and possibly 2001 models)
with the RS3000 keyless/security system. Instead, try these programming instructions for your pre01:
Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to ON (not ACC).
Using 1 remote transmitter, press and hold both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for
over 2 seconds until the status monitor's LED lights up.
Select the operating mode (Complete these steps within 30 seconds)
PIEZO OFF - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button once.
(The Piezo chirps once and the lights flash once.)
PIEZO ON - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button twice.
(The Piezo chirps twice and the lights flash twice.)
Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
(The Piezo chirps 3 times and the lights flash 3 times.)

Based on an article by: Kai Berger
Materials/Tools Needed:
- 4 gallons of distilled water
- 1 gallon of radiator fluid
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- 1 length of 1/4 rubber fuel line (optional, but recommended)

- 1 pair of pliers
- Metric socket set
MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS COOL BEFORE WORKING ON IT.
If you have a 4WD, the first step is to remove both skid plates under the front of the truck. You'll
need a metric socket set with a 12mm socket.
On the bottom passenger side of the radiator, you'll find the drain plug. You will notice the drain
plug has a spigot on it. If you don't want to make a mess you can use can use a tube to direct the
flow of the draining coolant. I used some leftover 1/4 rubber fuel line when I extended my rear
differential breather, and it worked great. Fit the rubber fuel line over the spigot and place the other
end of the hose in your drain pan.
You will need some pliers to turn the drain plug; you might want to be careful when doing this. The
drain plug is plastic and it might
break. Also, you'll notice in the picture that there is radiator fluid all over the place. This is because I
loosened the plug too much and it fell off, letting radiator fluid go everywhere. You are just going to
have to guess how far you can loosen the plug before it comes completely out.<img border=1
src=files/radiator_flush/drain_plug.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/drainplug2.jpg>

Once the fluid has been drained out of the radiator, you'll need to next drain the remaining fluid
from the engine block. You will need a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt. This drain plug also has a
spigot, so if you have a tube to hook up to it, that will save you clean-up time later. Loosen the bolt
until the fluid starts to drain out. There will not be much that comes out.
Next, tighten the drain plugs. I just used my hand since you are going to be loosening them up in a
second.
<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/battery_support.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/reservoir.jpg>
The next step is to remove the fluid reservoir. To do this, you must remove the bracket that secures
the battery.
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The reservoir can easily be removed by sliding it up and out. Empty the fluid and put the reservoir
back in. Secure the battery bracket back in place.
<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/water.jpg>

Now you are ready to fill the radiator with distilled water. It should take almost 2 gallons to fill the
radiator. Once filled, you will want to run turn the truck on leaving the radiator cap off. You will also
need to turn the heat on. The Haynes Manual suggests leaving the truck running until the top
radiator hose gets hot before turning it off.
Once the truck is cool, drain the distilled water out of the system using the two drain plugs
mentioned in the procedure above. Most of the water will still be cool until it is almost drained.
Most mechanics recommend filling and draining the system twice with distilled water as outlined
above.

By: Jeff Beck
I currently have the TRD 2.7 S/C installed on my 2000 Tacoma..the mod I will be explaining is the
FREE FMU mod for 2.4L/2.7L Tacoma s/c's. This mod gives the supercharger more feel and also
increases the fuel pressure slightly to eliminate any lean condition and feed the engine more fuel.
The mod is VERY simple and takes but a few steps. Heres what you'll need:
- a 12mm socket (to remove boost port plug)
- a 3/16/ 1/8 brass nipple fitting (replaces boost plug)
- Teflon tape (to seal the new plug well, optional)
- 1 vacuum plug (to plug hole left on intake)
- 2 minutes!
<img align=right border=1 src=files/free_fmu/freefmu1.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>
First, remove the boost port plug (pictured at right)... with your 12mm socket/wrench. Next, take
your new brass fitting.. and (if wanted) add teflon tape around the threads, to keep it sealed and so
it resists corrosion.
After that is done, screw it into where the boost port was once located. Then, take the hose that
was once on the intake that runs from the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and put it onto the nipple of
your new fitting (make sure it's on well, and will not slip off). Finally, take your vacuum plug and plug
the hole left on the intake (I covered it with electrical tape first, then capped it... for extra measure)
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make sure it's all secure..and take it for a spin.

It should take a few miles to start to feel the difference (low end is better and mid range boost is
more apparent). All in all, for about $3-4 bucks, it's well worth it and comes in handy when moving
to a higher psi pulley, or even if you experienced some slight knocking/ping...
<img align=left border=1 src=files/free_fmu/freefmu2.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>
This mod can be used in conjunction with a boost gauge, all that is needed is a 1/8 t-fitting (or
whatever size you have) and the cutting of your FPR hose to accommodate it... Thanks for looking
and if you have any questions, e-mail me at JBTRD00@yahoo.com
When lifting the front of your 4x4, the angle of the front drive shafts increases
and may cause premature wear on your CV joints. One simple remedy is to lower the
front differential. This is accomplished by simply installing drop spacers. There
are a number of companies who offer a spacer kit for this particluar application this article explains how it is done.
<img src=http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/102-diffdrop3.jpg border=1>
Parts Needed:
(2) -13 X 8 Grade 5 Zinc Hex Bolts
(2) -13 Zinc Nylock Nuts
(2) M8x1.25 X 35mm Zinc Hex Bolts
(2) M8 Zinc Flat Washers
(2) Differential Spacers*
* Although it is not highly recommended, a 1 stack of
Zinc Washers could be used in place of each differential spacer.
1. Remove both skid plates under the front

of the vehicle. Save (9) OEM 12mm bolts.
2. At the differential mounts, loosen the (2) OEM 19mm x 7 bolts and nuts, allowing the front
differential to hang loosely. Save the OEM washers.
3. Working on one side at a time, remove one OEM bolt from the differential mount, with the other
bolt hanging the differential in place. Install a spacer between the differential support and front
cross-member. Place the OEM washer onto a new -13 X 8 bolt and insert it up through the
differential support. Place a nut on the new bolt, but do not tighten.
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4. Repeat step 3 for the other side of the

differential mount. Once both bolts and spacers are in place, tighten the bolts.
Torque to 75 ft-lbs.
5. Install the FRONT skid plate using (3)

OEM 12mm bolts on the front and (2) new M8x1.25 X 35mm bolts in the rear. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.
6. To install the REAR skid plate, elongate

the rear mounting holes with a file for fitment. Once holes are elongated, mount
rear skid plate with OEM 12mm bolts.
7. Torque all skid plate bolts to 55 ft-lbs.


Below is a fuel filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size:
Manufacturer
2.4L/2.7L 4cyl.
3.4L V6
Purolator
F45075
F44710
Fram - 16V
G7629
G6680
Fram - 16V Universal
G7196
NAPA - Gold
FIL 3500
FIL 3319
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By: ZR2Steve
This modification will enable the power outlets for your accessories to have full time power even
when the ignition is turned off. This can be useful if you have a CB radio with a re-set feature, or a
cell phone charger, map lights etc. Once completed, you must be careful not to leave any devices
running or charging for too long and drain your battery.
<img src=files/148-PowerOutlet-1s.JPG alt=Enlarge border=1>
Look at the fuse box under the hood, the cover shows the location of the fuses, relays, etc marked
on the cover. You will see a block marked PWR OUTLET. Now remove the cover and locate that relay,
using the the map on the cover. Remove that relay, it pulls up, but may need to be wiggled. If you
look at the socket there are 4 plugs, 2 small & 2 large plugs. The large plugs use standard male
crimp connectors, those are the two you want to jump.
Now make a short, (appox 2) wire with two stardard flat male crimp connectors and plug this wire
into the only two socket that stardard connectors will fit into, where the removed relay was.
Here is the jumper installed. If you would like to check the work before you turn on the key that is
OK. Put the jumper in and BEFORE you turn on the key, see if your sockets have power.
Another thing you may want to verify - is that the line is still fused. To test, pull the stock fuse, and
see if the outlets still have power. If they don't, then the line is still fused.
You may want to keep the unused relay in a 35mm film canister for a spare. The canister will keep it
in good condition and is easily stored in the truck somewhere.
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By: Randy Hobart

For those of you with air suspensions, there's always a paranoia of having broken or cut airlines or
punctured airbags. Here's two simple tips that may ease a little bit of that paranoia by providing
some basic emergency repair procedures.
Always keep a knife and one or two spare coupler air fittings (butt connectors) in your glove box.
For airlines that may become broken, punctured, or maybe snipped by vandals, all you need to do is
locate the damage, cut the line square and clean, then mount the coupler fitting in-line where the
damage used to be. Easy enough, huh?! When you get home, you can always replace the original
length of airline.
If you're one of those fella's who have a frame-layin' ride, I'm sure that a punctured airbag means
that you're sitting on the ground, helpless on the side of the road. This truly sucks, but I guess it's
the kind of risk we take when we decide to go low. If you're like me, you don't always have the extra
cash flow to keep a spare airspring or two handy. Here's a little riggin' you can do so that you can at
least make it to the nearest phone booth to call the tow truck.
Cut a piece of 4x4 wood post down to 5 or 6 inches and stash it somewhere in your ride. Maybe even
strap it to the frame or something, out of sight, kinda like the spare tire. When a bag blows, it's
pretty much ruined, so there's really no chance of salvaging it. You'll just cut the rubber sleeve off
and wedge the wood block into the space where the bag used to be. This will give you the ground
clearance to move the vehicle off the road.
Now for the airline, you'll want to bypass the damaged airbag because all your air will simply be
blowing out where the bag used to be. If you have independent
valves, you won't have to worry about this... but if you have 2 bags coming from one valve, find the
T-connector and disconnect the airlines that come from the air tank and to the good airspring and
use your spare coupler fitting to connect the two. This will allow control over the other airbag in line
with the damaged one.
I know it sounds like a total rig-job, but it's less humiliating than explaining to the towing guy that
you blew a bag... 'Cause you know Farmer Joe is gonna laugh in your face for lowering and baggin'
your ride in the first place.
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By: J. Orrand, TTORA - Tennessee Chapter
Toyota made the differential lock feature available in 4Lo only on TRD 4WD Tacomas. Several
theories have been tossed around as to why Toyota did this, but the most sensible is that they are
covering themselves legally, as driving at higher speeds with a locked rear differential can be an
interesting experience. One odd thing, however, is that on Pre Runner Tacomas, the locker is
available at all speeds since there is no transfer case to dictate when the locker can be activated.
We all know how helpful a locking differential is off hwy. Using the locker in 4Hi as well as 4Lo is
desirable. Two methods have been devised to defeat this 4lo only locker option. The first was a
modification to the blue plug that is connected to the transfer case/transmission combo. The
problem with modifying the locker using this Blue Plug Mod was that it made the main ECU think the
vehicle was in 4lo all the time, thus effecting shift points on automatic transmissions. This was an
undesirable side effect.
The second and preferred method is known as the Gray Wire Locker Mod. The 4WD computer is
tied to the main ECU. A gray wire is shared between these two computers. When the vehicle is
placed in 4Lo a ground signal is sent down this gray wire to the 4WD computer. This ground signal
allows the locker to be activated should the button be depressed. The ground signal also goes to
the main ECU telling it the truck is in 4Lo and thus changing the shift points. By sending a ground
signal ONLY to the 4WD computer, the locker may be activated in 2Hi, 4Hi, or
4Lo, yet the main ECU is not effected so the shift points will only change if the truck is actually
in 4Lo.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
To complete this mod youll only need some wire cutters, a 12 piece of wire, a butt connector, a ring
connector, some electrical tape and a philips head screw driver. If you want to match the wire in the
truck, you'll need 18ga. I had 14ga on hand so that's what I used and it worked fine.
The 4WD computer is located behind the drivers side kick panel. To get to it, just remove the four
screws in the door trim, and pop it out the trim out. The kick panel will then slide out.

DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL
REMOVE DOOR TRIM SCREWS
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locker%20Mod%20Panel%20small.jpg>
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Remove%20Screws%20small.jpg>
The 4WD computer is toward the back of the panel area close to the firewall. It's obvious which box
is the 4WD computer by the decal placed on it.

4WD COMPUTER LOCATION
LABEL
4WD COMPUTER
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<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Computer%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Computer%20Close%20Up%20small.jpg>
Simply unplug the white connector going into the 4WD computer and remove the tape and
protective sheathing.
UNPLUG THE WHITE CONNECTOR
<IMG border=1 SRC=files/Connector%20small.jpg>

Make a 12 patch wire. If you want to match the size of the gray wire then use 18ga wire for the
patch. I used 14ga since that's what I had on hand, and it worked fine. Crimp a butt connector on
one end of the patch wire, and a 3/8 ring connector on the other end. Once you're sure both the
ring and butt connector are secure, cut the gray wire about 3 from the white 4WD computer
connector and splice the patch wire to the gray wire. Make sure you splice into the end coming from
the white connector.
Note: In some rare cases, there is a different color wire used in place of the
grey wire. The best way to identify the correct wire is to locate prong
number 8. This wire is in the bottom middle of the plug, between a
green/yellow wire and a white/black wire. See this wiring diagram for more info.


12 PATCH WIRE
SPLICE PATCH WIRE INTO GRAY WIRE
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/12%20Inches%20of%20Wire%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Splice%20Gray%20Wire%20small.jpg>
Next, locate a screw to ground to. Any screw going into the
body will work. The one I used is right above the 4WD computer and already had
some equipment grounded to it. Its a 10mm brass colored bolt which is easy to
reach and is an excellent candidate. I taped up all connections for added
protection against shorts, as well as to keep the wire from pulling out of the
connectors. I also recommend putting a small piece of electrical tape over the
unused end of the gray wire for protection against a short. The unused end will
be the end running up into the dash.
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10mm BRASS COLORED GROUND SCREW

GRAY WIRE
TAPE OFF UNUSED END OF
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Ground%20Screw%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Tape%20Off%20Cut%20End%20small.jpg>
That's all there is to it. Total time to complete this mod should be less than 30 minutes. As you can
see from the following pictures, the locker will activate in 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo. My 99 TRD is equipped
with ABS, so anytime the locker is activated, the ABS is disabled. This is denoted by the ABS light
being illuminated. This is how it worked from the factory, only before this mod ABS was only
disabled in 4Lo when the locker was activated. Now I can have the locker activated while in 4Hi and
at the same time the ABS will be disabled. You can't beat that.
LOCKED IN 2WD ABS DISABLED
FOR CLARITY
CLOSE UP OF LAMPS
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locked%202WD%20view%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/DiffLock%20&%20ABS%20Lamps%20small.jpg>
LOCKED IN 4WD HI ABS DISABLED
CLARITY

CLOSE UP OF LAMP FOR
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locked%204WD%20View%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Lamp%20small.jpg>

By: rocket
You've probably heard some of the benefits of installing an Optima before: They're completely
sealed, so they can be mounted in any orientation, even INSIDE your truck. They hold their charge
longer than conventional lead-acid batteries (up twice as long, according to Optima's website). They
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don't require any maintenance such as cleaning terminals or adding water. They aren't susceptible
to shaking or jarring as normal batteries can be.
So, is it difficult to install an Optima battery? No way. Here's some photos of my Optima Red-Top
Battery installation:
Step 1: Unbolt the battery bracket from the engine compartment. It should use two 12-mm nuts.
Step 2: Loosen the positive and negative battery connections from your existing battery. Be
careful not to set the negative battery wire on the positive terminal, for obvious reasons.
<img width=200 vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right border=1 src=files/optima/side_spacer.jpg>Step

3: We will be installing the battery on it's side, with the terminals pointing towards the rear of the
truck. If your Optima battery came with a spacer, install that spacer on the side of the battery- the
side that doesn't have any terminals.
Step 4: Once the spacer is installed, set the new battery down in the truck and connect the positive
and negative terminals. Again, be careful to install the wires correctly.
Step 5: Reinstall the battery bracket to secure the battery.
Here are a few images of the completed installation:

<img width=200 border=1 src=files/optima/front_view_mounted.jpg>
Front View<img width=200 border=1 src=files/optima/right_side_mounted.jpg>
Side View
Improve your Fuel Efficency

With gasoline prices headed north of $3.00 a gallon all over the country, many of us Tacoma owners
have questioned recently how to get better gas mileage. There are a number of super-easy things
to check on your truck to make sure you're making the most of every gallon.
Air Filter
If your air filter is clogged, your engine will not be running a optimum efficiency. The Toyota service
manual recommends changing your air filter every 30,000 miles, however, many service manuals
recommend replacing it more often. If you have a washable K&N or Amsoil air filter, it can simply be
cleaned, re-oiled and reinstalled. Using a clean air filter can improve your mileage by as much as 10
percent.
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Tire Pressure
You can improve your gas mileage by around 3.3 percent by keeping your tires inflated to the proper
pressure. Under-inflated tires can lower gas mileage by 0.4 percent for every 1 psi drop in pressure
of all four tires. Properly inflated tires are safer and last longer. To view the tire pressure
recommended by Toyota for your truck, open your drivers door and read the plate inside the door
jam. Remember, running too little or too much air pressure may cause your tires to wear unevenly.
Rotation and Alignment

Tires that are rotated often are safer and last longer. Keep your tires rotated per your Owner's
manual for best fuel economy. Likewise, keeping your truck within proper alignment will help your
efficiency.
Use Recommended Oil

Besides protecting your engine, using the correct grade of motor oil will make your engine run as
efficiently as possible. Also, running a synthetic or part-synthetic oil has been proven to increase
mileage.
Drive More Efficiently

Driving style can effect your truck's gas mileage as much as anything. Speeding, rapid acceleration
and braking can all have a negative effect on your next visit to the pump. Alternatively, you can
increase your MPG by observing the speed limit, removing excess weight, avoiding excess idling,
and using cruise control whenever possible.
Windows Vs. A/C

There is an ongoing debate as to whether driving with your windows down is worse for fuel efficiency
than running your air conditioner. Some claim driving with your windows rolled down can be even
worse due to the increase of drag on the vehicle. Most will agree that if you are driving slowly, such
as around town or in city traffic, then you are better off leaving your windows open, if at all possible.
For highway driving, roll up the windows and turn the air conditioning on if it is a hot day.
Sources:
http://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/drive.shtml
http://www.edmunds.com/reviews/list/top10/103164/article.html
http://money.cnn.com/2005/09/01/Autos/tipsandadvice/gas_saving_test/
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For many 2003 Model Tocomas, the range on the factory keyless entry remote is
far less than desirable. In my case, I had a 2002 model that had very decent range. But I then got
into a 2003 model, and the remote range was a far cry shorter. I do not have an explination as to
why it is so dramatically insufficient compared to previous models, but I certainly wanted to find a
way to improve it. This method simply lengthens the antenna.
To lengthen the antenna, you will need to add about 4 or 5 feet of wire to the end of the antenna
with a butt-connector.
The antenna is located under the driver side dash.
<IMG border=1 src=files/rs3200-1_1.jpg border=1>
It is a small, grey wire with a black stripe. There should be about 6 or 7 inches of the end of it
hanging freely from the harness. It is just behind and to the right of the fuse cluster. (It is not
necessary to remove any dash panels to access the wire - the dash is removed in the picture for
clarity.)
The best way to feed the extension wire is to first feed it from the top corner of the dash, at the Apillar. The A-pillar trim will most likely need to be removed. Once the wire is fed down behind the
dash, use a butt-connector to attach the 2 wire ends.
Run the wire up the A-Pillar and tuck the remaining wire up into the front of the headliner, along the
windshield.
Testing the range, I found that it increased at least double it's previous range. The increase is not
staggering, by any means, but it is improved. I estimate that I now have a range of 35 to 40 feet.
By: Jeff Pollard
<img align=right vspace=5 hspace=8 border=1 width=300 src=files/95bumper/before_after.jpg>

In order to successfully complete this conversion you'll need the following parts:
95-97 4x4 Tacoma bumper and valance (Genuine Toyota Parts are HIGHLY recommended - Chrome
bumper is Toyota part #52101-04080)
Right and left front bumper brackets for 95-97 4x4 Tacoma (Toyota part #'s: 52011-AD010 and 5012AD010)
Right and left side bumper brackets for 95-97 4x4 Tacoma (Toyota part #'s: 52145-35020 and
52146-35020)
8 Small (7/16-ish) bolts, washers, and nuts to attach valance to bumper
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You'll also need these tools:

Socket set with 12mm, 14mm, 10mm, and 17mm sockets
Screwdriver
Step 1: First, you'll need to remove your turn signal assemblies from your factory bumper with a
phillips head screwdriver. Keep these handy, you'll use them with your new setup. Next, remove
the stock 2wd Tacoma bumper. It is held on by six bolts: (4) 14 mm bolts on the front bumper
brackets, and (2) 12mm nuts on the side valance in front of the inside valance. I suggest using a
Haynes manual for reference on disassembly. You'll also find that the valance is secured to the
frame underneath by some plastic fasteners. I basically had to break these fasteners to free my
valance. Your mileage may vary.
Step 2: Next, remove the front frame crossmember. This MUST be removed in order for your new
valance to install correctly. It is attached to your frame by 2 17mm bolts, one on each side. They
will be torq'ed tight and may be difficult to pop loose. Once the crossmember was removed, I
threaded the two 17mm bolts back into the holes so that I wouldn't lose them in my toolbox and to
help keep rust out of the holes.<img border=1 width=250 src=files/95bumper/2.jpg>
Step 3: Attach new valance to new bumper. The valance I purchased did not come with any
hardware to attach the bumper to the valance, so I fabricated one. The bumper and valance have
corresponding holes to bolt the two together, so I purchased 8 small bolts, washers, and nuts to
attach them. I have seen people attach the two with zip ties, but I recommend bolting the two
together.
<img border=1 width=250 src=files/95bumper/3.jpg>

Step 4: Next, attach the 4x4 front bumper brackets onto the frame with the 14mm bolts that you
removed in step 1. I would recommend leaving these bolts a little loose for fitment.
Step 5: Attach 4x4 bumper and valance to front 4x4 brackets using the 12mm nuts removed in step
1.
Step 6: Remove side bracket bushings and nuts from removed factory 2wd bumper. Use the
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bushings and nuts to attach the new side brackets to the new valance. Unless you already have 4x4
fenders, you may need to use a little persuasive force to get everything to line up so you can tighten
the nuts.
Step 7: Screw in your turn signals in their new location in your 4x4 valance.
Step 8: Depending on your state, attach your front license plate. Step back and admire your handy
work. Keep in mind that if you don't have 4x4 fenders, the bumper may stick out wider than your
fenders on the sides. Installing 4x4 fenders will make this look more normal.<img border=1
width=250 src=files/95bumper/8.jpg>
By: Travis Bedel
In order to successfully complete this conversion you'll need:

Socket wrench 14mm deep socket (for bumpers and brackets)
Power drill
Drill bits
13mm deep socket (for 4runner bracket removal)

12mm deep socket (for bumper removal and bracket removal)
Step 1: Remove the Tacoma bumper. It is held on by six bolts: (4) 14 mm bolts on the front
bumper brackets, and (2) 12mm nuts on the side valance in front of the inside valance. I suggest
using a Haynes manual for reference on disassembly.
<img border=1 src=files/4runner_bumper/1.jpg>

Red circles indicate bumper bracket location
Close-up of front bumper bracket after removal
Side bracket mounting location
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Step 2: Prepare 4Runner bumper for installation. This is a view of the rear of the 4runner bumper
lights. The Tacoma 1156 bulbs are too big to fit into the smaller 4runner bumper lights holes, so
modifications must be made. <img border=1 src=files/4runner_bumper/5.jpg>

Remove the 4runner bumper lights. This is where you use your unibit or a small knife to cut out a
larger hole for the Tacoma light bulb and harness to fit and lock into. Be careful not to cut the hole
out so large that the bulb wont lock into place.
This is what your bumper lights look like with the Tacoma bulb and harness installed. Repeat with
other signal.<img border=1 width=275 src=files/4runner_bumper/7.jpg>
<img border=1 width=250 src=files/4runner_bumper/8.jpg>Step 3: Drill a new hole in each of your

Tacoma brackets so they attach to the 4Runner bumper. The bracket on top is a 4Runner bracket
and on bottom is a Tacoma bracket. Notice how the holes on the 4Runner bumper are spaced
further apart than on the Tacoma. A new hole must be drilled.
The circled area shows the holes where the brackets bolt onto the bumpers, and the yellow dot
shows where a new hole must be drilled into the Tacoma bracket. Make sure that you drill in the
correct spot as drilling more than one hole will make the bracket lose its structural integrity.<img
border=1 width=250 src=files/4runner_bumper/9.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/4runner_bumper/11.jpg>Step 4: Bolt your newly-drilled Tacoma brackets

onto the 4Runner bumper.
Step 8: Now this is where the other person helps, have them hold the bumper in place while you
line up the brackets and bolt the 4Runner bumper on to the Taco using the (4) 14mm bolts. I did not
use the 12mm nuts from earlier. Step back and admire your handy work.<img border=1
src=files/4runner_bumper/12.jpg>

By: Paul Vincent
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The following covers my custom installation of an AutoMeter MiniTach (about $60) with the wiring
done completely in-cab on my '98 Tacoma Extended Cab.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/A_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>

Deciding on the place to put the tachometer was where I began. I decided to mount it on the
steering column right in front of the speedometer for a clean, low-profile look. To mount it, I marked
the centerline on the cover with a permanent marker and then drilled the holes necessary for the
base to be lined up. Sheet metal screws came with the tachometer so I used a small squared
shaped piece of sheet metal underneath the plastic cover to help secure the base on the plastic
cover (NOTE: The tips of the screws were ground down so that the cover would fit without the screws
hitting surfaces inside the steering column.) I then loosely attached the tachometer to see how it fit
in the dash and everything looked fine - plenty of clearance from the steering wheel and the
speedometer was still easily readable with the tachometer adjusted at different angles.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/Tach_tn.gif align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>
Once the fitment of the tachometer on the column cover was finished, the focus shifted to routing
the wiring. For ease of connection, I decided to connect the tachometer to my in-dash Sony CD
wiring harness adapter using the ground spade connector, 12V+ ignition wire, and dash illumination
wire. The tachometer wires travel from the back of the tachometer, under the gauge pod, along the
kick panel (going over the parking brake) to the center console. The tachometer 12V+ ignition (red
wire), illumination (white wire), and ground (black wire) were soldered to the wiring adapter's 12V+
wire, dash lighting wire, and spade ground terminal. I secured the grounding spade connection to
the left bolt of the parking brake bracket. The tach signal wire (green) was routed past the center
console interior to the passenger side kick panel area towards the computer (which is behind the
glove box) - which brings us to the next step: finding the right ECM circuit to use for the tach signal.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/wiring_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>
After getting the wiring diagram manual, I found which connection to use on the ECM. ECM
connector E8 (the 26 pin connector on the left) contains the ignition signal that should be used (the
IGF signal - Black/Yellow wire to pin 17 of connector). The green tachometer wire was temporarily
inserted into the back of E8 connector pin 17 to verify that it was the correct one. Once verified (the
engine was able to start and the tachometer was reading), the green tachometer wire was spliced to
the IGF signal wire (see image at right).
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/B_tn.jpg align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>

After it was installed I checked out how it performed.
The Tacoma was on stock wheels and tires and the AutoMeter MiniTach checked out as follows:
Idle: 750 - 800 rpm
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2nd gear at just less than 55mph: ~5,300rpm

5th gear at 55mph: ~2,000rpm
Matches nearly perfectly the top speeds in each gear per owners manual. I don't know why Toyota
decided most 5 speed Tacoma's don't need tachometers, but as this has shown you, it's not really
that hard to add what should have been there from the start in a manual transmission vehicle.

So your differential has oil in it. Oil expands when it gets warm. Without a breather, the pressure
would rise in your differential and might shorten the life of various oil seals. The stock breather is
right on the differential. In the event that you should splash through a puddle that is deep enough to
immerse the breather, there is a chance that your differential might suck some of that water in.
Water and oil don't mix very well and the resulting milkshake certainly doesn't lubricate very well. In
the end, you have three options: (1) Stay out of the water; (2) Flush your differential every time it
might have gotten wet; (3) Extend the breather. Well, here's the procedure for option three.
The front differential already has an extended breather on it, coming up into the engine
compartment. Some folks add a couple of feet onto it, but it's high enough to handle most moderate
off road travel.
<IMG border=1 align=right vspace=8 hspace=8 src=files/diff_breather/1.jpg>
8 feet of 1/4 rubber fuel line
2 small hose clamps
A few nylon zip ties
1 Union (Toyota part number 90404-51026), should be less than $5
Some dealers may claim that they can't find that part number in their systems. Try requesting the
part number without the dash (9040451026 or 90404 51026).
Tools Needed:
Box/Open wrenches, 10mm and 14mm
Screwdrivers
Wire Cutters
1 cup boiling water
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Procedure:
Here's a photo showing the location of the stock breather on the differential housing.
<IMG width=250 border=1 src=files/diff_breather/2.jpg><IMG width=250 border=1

src=files/diff_breather/1a.jpg>
Close-up of stock breather
Use a 14mm wrench to remove the stock breather. Use a rag to clean around the breather before
you remove it completely.
<IMG width=250 border=1 src=files/diff_breather/3.jpg>
<IMG width=250 border=1 src=files/diff_breather/4.jpg> Use a 10mm wrench to thread the Union
(90404-51026) into the differential housing. It will tighten down until about one thread is exposed.
Dip one end of your rubber hose in a cup of boiling water for 30 seconds, then insert the stock
breather threads into the hose. You want to get all of the threads into the tubing. This will allow your
diff to continue to breath as it would in a stock configuration and will cut down on the chances of
dust or moisture getting sucked in. Secure the breather with one of the hose clamps. Some folks use
a VW type fuel filter on the ends of their breathers.<IMG border=1 src=files/diff_breather/5.jpg>

There are a variety of places you can vent to. Some choose to run a hose all the way up to the
engine compartment. We followed the electric locker cable/brake lines up by the fuel filler neck. This
view is from the perspective of the left, rear tire, looking up into the bed rail. The stock breather end
of the hose was secured with wire-ties so that it was above the fuel neck. The hose was routed along
the fuel filler neck, over the frame and along the locker cable.
Once the hose was routed down near the differential, we left a bend in the hose so that it would not
be pulled tight when the suspension flexes. Once we had the hose secured, we cut off the excess
and fitted the hose over the Union. Secure the hose with the remaining hose clamp.
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That's it. With the hose following up the filler neck, you have a good indicator for a safe, dry
breather openeing.
By: Tacoma sXe
I installed a tachometer on my 2003 2.4L 2RZ standard cab, so some of

the things may only apply to that year or body style. I
installed a SunPro Actron Mini Tach (CP7906). It was $40 at
Discount Auto, and uses air core movement which is very
reliable and quick.
The tach should come with 4 wires:

Red: connect to a switched 12v power source
Black: grounded to the chassis
White: connect to an interior light source that turns on when
the lights are turned on
Green: connect to the ECU
First, I decided where to mount my tach. It

would have got in the way of the speedo if I put it directly on
top of the steering column, so I offest it to the left side, only
partially blocking the engine temp gauge (less important to me).
Then I ran the 4 wires through the gap between the steering
column and console panel
<img src=http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/129-tach-02.JPG border=1>
Next, I decided where to

ground. I chose one the bolts holding the gas pedal on. I used a
ring terminal for reliability issues
Then I ran the remaining 3

wires behind the dash to the passenger leg area. I
connected both the red and white wires to my amp's accesory turn
on lead. This way when my cd player turns on, so does the tach.
It also means that whenever my cd player is on, so is the light
for the tach. I did this out of laziness. I did not feel taking
the panels off to access a light wire. Nor did I feel like taking
my cd player out to access the switched power lead. Ideally, you would
want to connect these wires to a more suitable source.
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Now to get the green wire to the ECU, the hardest part. I took my
glove box off first. 2 Screws under the glove box to unhinged it, then
just pull it out. I had to take off the kick-panel over the ECU to access the wiring
harnesses. The one you need is the 26 pin plug all the way to the
left. Use a piggy back clasp to splice the green wire to the black/yellow wire.
Then I plugged the harness back in and tested it.
Last, I
mounted the tach. I used a small self tapping screw. By just
pushing it real hard into the top left of the steering column, I
was able to get it threaded. Then I backed it out, mounted the
cup, then added the tach.
There it is all mounted. I

took it out after, and just as told, 2nd gear at 5300 rpm was
right around 55mph. Perfect. This took me all of 2 hours, at the
most.

By: Error
Tools Needed:
12mm socket on an extension
6mm Allen Wrench
Large Phillips Screwdriver
or
10mm socket
I prefer a deep socket for extra reach. The screwdriver
can either be a large Phillips or a 10mm socket as I prefer. This will be used
for removing your intake piping and disconnecting the battery - which resets the
ECM, allowing your Taco to adjust to the newfound air.
<IMG border=1 src=files/130-TBS-01.JPG>
First, remove the intake piping. You will also have

to unbolt your resonator box from the head before removing. Mine is cut off,
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but the bolts are right under that orange wire loom above the exhaust manifold.
I believe they are 12mm. I'd check, but I don't use em.
<IMG src=files/130-TBS-02.JPG border=1>
Next, remove the top 2 nuts from the throttle body

assembly. The bottom 2 are bolts, and rather tricky to see. Here are
pictures of their locations:

Thankfully, Jerry provides new gaskets. At 98,000+
miles, mine was about to go. Glad I did this when I did!
After you pull the throttle body off, you have to

remove the studs from the top. I found that good ole Vice Grips worked
great. If one refuses to move, lock the grip down on it hard, and
gently rock it back and forth until it starts to spin, then twist it
out. This step took me all of 1 minute.
I wonder why they didn't just use bolts? Anyways, you

can probably pitch these now. I'm a pack rat, so they'll end up in my
stuff box.
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Time for the yucky part. Get some of this stuff. Trust me.
After 98+ thousand miles, the inside of my TB looked

like a fat man exploded in it. Anyway, find a
few of your worst rags, soak em in Simple Green, and start wiping all
the black goo off. The inside of the runner was pretty nasty as well.
This step took me about 20 minutes due to the amount of crud that was
in there.

Now clean off the gasket surfaces. I VERY
CAREFULLY used a razor blade to scrape off what was left. You
don't want to scratch the gasket surface. Again, trust me on this. I
then rubbed the area heavily with the Simple Green soaked rag to clean it
thoroughly.
Now, hopefully by now you've sent your money and gotten

your spacer. It comes with new gaskets and 4 bolts.
This picture is actually wrong. The longer bolts go at the bottom
during installation, and the shorter bolts go up top. Minor detail, you
get the point.

Another handy thing to have is the right allen wrench.
I didn't, because I'm poor. So I took a 7/32nd allen and wrapped the
ends in a thin layer of tape until it fit in the new bolt.
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Line everything up, and carefully bolt it all back

together. Remember to put gaskets on both sides of the spacer, and
line everything up right. Make sure you get those bolts on there
tight - you don't want air leaking in. Also, make sure you replace any
hoses you removed earlier to the right places. I left most of mine
attached and just wiggled the throttle body around. Easier, I think. When
tightened, it will have no gaps. This picture was taken before I got
it all the way on. The gaskets should be barely visible though.

The next step is reinstalling your intake, but heck,
while you've got it off, toss in a set of these TRD Platnium/Iridium
(depending on your motor). It's really easy with the intake piping removed. After this,
bolt your intake back on. It'll be an awkward fit due to the 1 shift,
but it all still fits. You end up crushing the rubber elbow a bit. I
plan to fix that in the next few days to smooth that back out. Replug
the battery, fire it up, and enjoy better mileage.

Author: pucancakes
Step 1: Jack truck up and remove wheel. Use jackstands to support truck and make sure that they
are secure.
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring2.jpg>Step 2: Unbolt nut on top of the shock. Remove
washer and bushing.
Step 3: Unbolt bottom 2 bolts underneath shock.<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring3.jpg>
Step 4: Next, remove the shock.
Step 5: To begin removing the factory spring, unbolt the 4 bolts on top of upper control arm.<img
border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/spring5.jpg>
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring6a.jpg>Step 6: Compress spring with spring
compressor and have someone pull up on upper control arm and pull down on lower control arm to
pull spring out.
Step 7: Compress new coil spring with spring compressor before installing. Don't forget to install
the rubber cushion on the new coil spring.<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring7.jpg>
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Reinstall spring and shock using above steps in reverse.

By: Jeff Pollard
One of the first (and most commonly performed) performance modifications to custom vehicles is
the replacement of the stock intake. It's a simple operation that is easy to perform and supposedly
adds somewhere around 10% more horsepower.<img border=0 src=files/intake_install/original.jpg
align=left hspace=7 vspace=7>
I recently purchased an aftermarket intake system from SporTruck Specialities. The problem is:
there weren't any directions included with the kit. Now this wasn't a difficult installation, but I've
made a short tutorial for those of you that are thinking about purchasing an aftermarket intake for
your truck. SporTruck Specialties' kit was very affordable and includes a GENUINE K&N filter to stick
on the end. As of writing this, I've been driving my 2.4L Taco for two days with the new system and I
can definitely tell the difference. Accelleration is smoother and throttle response is improved. I'd
recommend an aftermarket intake for just about anybody..even if you're not looking to break the
sound barrier any time this century!
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/remove_harness.jpg>
First, unplug the MAF sensor wiring harness from the stock intake. Unhook the rest of the harness
where it is attached in 2 or 3 places.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/MAF_unhook.jpg>

Next, unbolt the MAF piece from the air box. It should be attached to the air box with 4 10mm nuts.
Next, unbolt the air box from the truck (4 12mm bolts)
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/no_airbox.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/MAF_adapter.jpg>
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<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/attach_filter.jpg>

Loosen the hose clamp and remove the MAF piece from the rest of the intake and set aside. This will
be used with the new system. Connect the MAF to the adapter plate supplied in the kit using 4 bolts
and nuts. I've heard of some people using Loc-Tite on these bolts to make sure they never back-off,
but I opted not to for the time being.
Attach filter on the end of the adapter plate using a hose clamp.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/unbolt_tube.jpg>

Unbolt the factory intake tube from the engine mount. There are 2 bolts on the bottom-side of it,
right above the exhaust manifold.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/unhook_hoses.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/remove_tube.jpg>
Unhook the vacuum hoses from the factory intake tube. There is a small one in the front and a
larger one on the backside of the tube.
Unscrew the two hose clamps that seal the connection between the intake and the throttle body.
Remove the factory intake.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/throttle_fitting.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/install_tube.jpg>
Next, put one of the silicon fittings on the throttle body along with 2 hose clamps. Slide the new
intake tube into the silicon fitting. Bolt the intake tube to the engine using existing holes on the top
of the valve cover. Attach both vacuum hoses to the new intake tube. Tighten the 2 hose clamps
on intake-throttle body connection.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/attach_MAF.jpg>
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Slide the other silicon fitting on to the MAF assembly along with 2 hose clamps. This was the
hardest part of the installation for me. I had a hard time stretching the silicon fitting to fit on my
MAF piece.
Slide the MAF assembly on to the intake tube and tighten down the hose clamps.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/connect_harness.jpg>

Finally, re-connect the MAF sensor wiring harness to the MAF sensor. Make sure all of your hose
clamps are tight and make sure that the tube is securely attached to the valve cover.
NOTE: My SporTruck Specialties kit came with a pre-drilled hole (and a groment) for a MAF sensor
on the back of the tube. For newer Tacoma owners, you will need to plug that hole with a bolt, since
your MAF sensor is on the seperate MAF peice. This is what the guy at SporTruck told me to do.
Seems kinda ghetto, but if that's what they recommend....
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/bolt_hole.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/final.jpg>

That's it! Now, fire it up and take it for a spin. I immediately noticed a difference in throttle
response and acceleration. The truck also seems to shift smoother now, but maybe that's just me. I
also noticed that my engine now sounds like it is sucking in air when it's running.

By: Jeff Pollard (Photographer: Olivia Lewis)
Tools needed:
- Needlenose plyers
- A rag or t-shirt
Parts needed:
- An aftermarket antenna of your choice
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- An import antenna adaptor (Trenz Part # 1010-I1) (View close-up photo)

Installation:
First, use the needlenose plyers to unscrew the factory antenna. At the base of the antenna, you
will notice that the antenna is rather flat. If you are worried about damaging your factory antenna,
use a rag or t-shirt to protect it.
Next, thread the import adaptor into your new antenna. Make sure it is tightly fastened.
Finally, thread the new antenna with adaptor into the factory antenna socket. Tighten the new
antenna down with the needlenose plyers (and a rag or t-shirt) to protect the antenna.
<img border=1 src=files/antenna/1_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/2_tn.jpg><img

border=1 src=files/antenna
/3_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/4_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/5_tn.jpg>
Here are some links to companies that sell aftermarket antennas:
Godfather Customs
Fender Bender Intl. (FBI)
Stylin Concepts
Street Beat

By: Dirk
(Editor's note: This modification is necessary for enthusiasts who wish to shave their door handles
for a smoother appearance)
Step 1: Remove door panel and pull back plastic to reach to door latch and lock assembly. <img
border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper1.jpg>
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper2.jpg>Step 2: Remove all
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levers that connect to the assembly and remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the door handle on.
Step 3: To take out the latch remove the 3 screws holding in place on the inside door jamb.<img
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper4.jpg>Step 4: Next
remove the 10mm bolt at near the bottom of the door. This is the window regulater track, the latch
cover is spot welded to this and just pull the track until you can pull the latch out of position.
Step 5: Now with the latch out , remove the lever arm that was connected to the door handle.<img
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper6.jpg>Step 6: Now with the
arm removed, lasso the solenoid cable around the arm on the latch and adjust the cable until the
solenoid clears the regulater track.(Just make a guess by holding the latch up to the door and adlust
the cable until you think the solenoid is going to clear the track)
Step 7: Now drill your holes for the solenoid mounting bracket and mount the sloenoid as shown in
the photo.<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper7.jpg>
This is the best way I have found to mount the solenoid and still allow you roll the window all the
way down. It also has more leverage on the latch spring, which means the solenoid doesn't have to
pull as hard. The kit I used for the solenoids was DEI's Trunk Release solenoid and wired it up to my
Viper Alarm.

Here are instructions for installing the dynamic tensioner for supercharged 3.4L V6 (5VZ-FE) engines.
View PDF file >>

Here is the official installation instructions for LC Engineering's Short Shifter kit. These directions
were originally sent with a 2RZ shifter kit and should be similar for all other models, but may differ
slightly. Read this document in PDf format >>

View the installation instructions for the Revtek 3 lift in PDF format

Here is the official installation manual for the TRD 2.4/2.7 (2RZ/3RZ) supercharger. Read this
document in PDF format >>

Here are the instructions for TRD's 7th injector conversion kit.
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View PDF file >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 7th injector kit for the 3.4L 5VZ-FE engine
supercharger. View this docment in PDF format >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 3.4L 5VZ-FE engine supercharger.
View this document in PDF format >>
Update: Toyota has posted a supplement to the TRD 3.4L Supercharger installation manual.
View supplement in PDF format >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 4.0L V6 1GR supercharger.

By: Jeff Pollard
<img align=right src=files/shorty_stop.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>I have the DJM 3/4 drop on my 99'
X-cab and frequently find my suspension bottoming out on the factory bump stops that I cut down to
a smaller size. The problem is that even though I cut my factory stops down, they'll never be
shorter than about an inch high because of the metal mounting plate.
The solution? Energy Suspension shorty bump stops. I ordered a set of Energy Suspension 3/8
button head bump stops from Summit Racing for a little less than $10. The part number was ENS-99132G.
The new bump stops were a breeze to install: Remove factory stops using 14mm deep well socket
(bolt is on bottom of lower control arm), and then install the new stops with a 14mm deep well
socket.
Several people on the site have suggested that I run without bump stops, but I fear that would cause
unnecessary wear on my suspension, so this is a great alternative solution. I gained almost an inch
of travel and the ride is noticably smoother, especially going over bridges.
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By: Randy Hobart

For those of you who want to go low, but refuse to cut a notch in the frame, I'm sure you suffer from
a lot of loud bottoming-out in the rear. For one thing, if you still have the factory bump stops, you
probably don't have very much suspension travel, which makes your ride a little too bumpy. On the
other hand, if you've removed your bump stops, the horrible noise you hear ever time your axle hits
your frame is nothing less of bone-chilling.
If you're not going to cut a notch, it's inevitable that you're going to bottom out. Here's a quick and
simple solution to help dampen the noise: Using an old mud flap or worn tire, cut out a couple of
strips about 2 inches wide and about 5 inches long. Using your old bumpstops as a template, drill a
couple of holes for the bolts. Mount it directly to the frame. Wah-Lah! You've got rubber between
your axle and frame that gives you maximum suspension travel.

The Toyota service manual states that all model year Tacoma trucks should use 5W-30 oil.The 2.4L,
2.7L, and 3.4L engines all take the same oil filter. Below is a list of part numbers for popular brand
name oil filters:
Brand
Part #
Amsoil
SDF57
Fram - Tough Gaurd
TG3614
Fram - X2 Extended Guard
XG3614
Fram - Extra Gaurd
PH3614
K&N - Performance Gold
HP1002
NAPA - Gold Filter
FIL 1348
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NAPA - Silver Filter

SFI 21348
Purolator - Oil Filter
L100241
Purolator - Pure One
PL100241
Toyota Genuine
90915-YZZB1
Toyota TRD
00642-90915-001

By: Jeff
Before you get started, make sure you have everything you need:
<img align=right border=1 vspace=5 hspace=5 src=files/omelift/parts.jpg>
Suspension Components:
OME coil springs
(either the 880s, 881s, or 882s)
OME front shocks
(either the N91s or N91sc) or some other long-travel shock
OME leaf springs (Part #s 15a and 15b)
OME rear shocks (Part # N85)
Recommended Accessory Parts:

(2) Toyota strut top plates
(Part # 48609-35010)
OME greasable shackles (Part # GS12)
OME shackle bushings (Part # SB88)
OME exhaust bracket (Part # FK21)
Daystar greasable front leaf bushings (Part # KT02017)
Front differential drop kit (www.cornfedsuspension.com) or (additional tech article)
Metal plate to relocate brake proportioning valve (can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot)
Tools:
Floor jack and jack stands
Full socket set, including deep well sockets up to 20mm
Torque wrench
Coil sompressors (if you plan to compress the coils yourself)
Drill
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Compressing The Coils

Before you get started, you should decide whether you will be compressing the coils and shocks
together to make the strut yourself or if you will let a shop do it for you. I highly recommend taking
them to a shop as it is one of the more difficult (and potentially dangerous) parts of this installation.
If you take your coils and shocks to a shop, make sure that you purchase a set of 2 Toyota strut top
plates (see part #s above). They will need these to complete the strut assembly.
If you plan on compressing the coils yourself, take a look at this diagram to get an idea of the
assembly of the strut and top plate. As always, be VERY careful when compressing your coils. Make
sure that the coil compressors are in good shape and that they've got a good hold on the coils.
The OME instructions also recommend that you install the factory retainer washer (it goes directly
under the top plate). I didn't install this retainer and haven't had any problems. Others have done
the same and they have not had any problems as well.
If you are assembling the strut yourself, try to make certain that the bottom shock eyelet is parallel
with two of the strut top plate studs. This will make your life a LOT easier when it comes time to
install the strut.
The Front
Once you have your assembled strut, you'll want to jack up the front of the truck and put jack stands
under it. For optimum access to the strut assembly, remove both front wheels.
On the strut top plate, you'll see three bolts with nuts on them and the top of the shock sticking up
through the center. Do NOT remove the center shock nut at this time. Instead, unbolt the three
nuts on the strut top plate. Unbolt the bottom shock mount and remove the shock.
To install the new longer strut, you'll need to press down on the upper control arm. It is common to
use a bottle jack to jack the upper control arms down. Be very careful in your bottle jack placement
on the control arms: it may be difficult to find a stable place to jack. Bolt in the lower shock mount
and the three upper strut plate nuts and torque to proper specifications.
Put the front tires back on and remove from jack and/or jack stands. The front is done!
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/compressingcoil.jpg>
Compressing the coil
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/assembledstruts.jpg>
Assembled struts
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/bottomshock.jpg>
Bottom shock mount (factory shock shown)
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The Rear
Jack up the rear of the truck and place the frame side rails on jack stands. Remove both rear
wheels. Support the rear differential with the floor jack, placed directly under the center of the
differential.
Note: It's easier to work one side at a time, completely finishing one side before continuing to the
next. OME leaf spring part #15A is for the driver's side and #15B is for the passenger side.
Unbolt the shocks and remove. Remove the u-bolts and bump stop. Un-bolt the rear shackle frame
bolts. You'll probably need to use a mallet to tap the shackle bolts out. If you are using the optional
OME bushings, it isn't necessary to remove the shackles from the leaf springs. Loosen the front leaf
spring hanger bolt and remove. Remove the leaf spring from the truck.
Install the new bushings (or reuse the stock bushings) for the front and rear leaf spring mounts.
Grease and install the OME greasable leaf spring shackle bolts (or the stock shackle bolts). Install
the leaf spring and torque the front hanger bolt to proper specifications. Line up the leaf spring with
the shackles and tighten the nuts onto the shackle bolts. Torque to proper specifications.
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/fronthanger.jpg>
Front hanger
<img height=151 border=1 src=files/omelift/rearbushings.jpg>
Rear bushings
<img height=151 border=1 src=files/omelift/completedshackle.jpg>
Assembled shackle
Before you can install the bump stop, you'll need to drill out the bottom center hole to allow it to fit
on the OME leaf springs. Place the bump stop and u-bolts onto the leaf spring. (The stock u-bolts
work fine) Due to the nature of the OME leaf springs, the axle will most likely need to slide forward
about 1/2. Make sure the leaf spring center pin lines up and drops into the axle's centering pin hole.
Also be careful not to jerk the truck off the jack stands when shifting the axle. Install and torque the
u-bolt nuts to proper specifications. Install the new OME rear shock.
Repeat for both leaf springs.
The Exhaust Bracket

If your tail pipe still comes out at the factory location, it's a good idea to relocate it slightly lower to
give proper clearance for the leaf spring. You can purchase the FK21 exhaust bracket which does
this with ease. To install it, first remove the two bolts holding the factory bracket to the frame.
Using the included hardware, bolt the exhaust hanger bushing to the new bracket using two of the
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holes in the bushing. Using the factory bracket bolts, bolt the new bracket to the frame in the
factory location. All done!
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/exhaustbracket.jpg>
Relocating The Brake Proportioning Valve

In order to keep your rear brakes functioning properly after the lift, it is important to raise the brake
proportioning valve relative to amount of your lift. Usually, this is around 2.5 to 3. The easiest way
to do this is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase a metal plate with pre-cut holes. They're
normally found in hardware near the window and door hardware. Cut the metal plate down to
around 4 inches. You may have to slightly ream out a hole or two in order for the bolt holes to line
up properly. Bolt the bottom of the plate to the factory BPV location using the stock bolts and then
attach the BPV to the metal plate using some spare bolts and nuts. In an attempt to prevent rust on
the fabricated bracket, I painted mine flat black after this photo was taken.
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/bpv.jpg>
The Front Differential Drop

When lifting the front of your 4x4, the angle of the front drive shafts increases and may cause
premature wear on your CV joints. One simple remedy is to lower the front differential. You can
either purchase a front diff drop kit from Cornfed Suspension or you can gather the necessary parts
and engineer it yourself. Read the full tech article on the front diff drop >>
Final Notes
Some people have found that they need to extend their rear brake lines when installing this lift. In
my case, my brake line was long enough, even with the suspension flexed. After the installation,
you will probably want to find a place to flex your new suspension and check the length of brake
line. If it is pulled tight, you will want to purchase an extension for your rear brake line.
Also, don't forget to grease your new bushings when the installation is complete, and keep them well
lubricated. A simple grease gun and some lithium-based grease will work fine.
Finally, as with any suspension modification, you'll want to take your truck to a good shop and get it
aligned. I found that my camber, caster, and toe were all incorrect after my lift.
By: Nathan Morris
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Always make sure to use safety and common sense when working on your ride. Use jack stands and
block the rear tires.
<img border=1 height=150 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper1.jpg>Step 1: Gather materials needed

for the job: one ratchet, 17mm socket, length of wire, tape and other masking materials (rags),
brake cleaner, and of course, your choice color of high-temp paint. (VHT and Plasti-kote offer many
shades of high-temp paint to choose from.)
Step 2: Clean up time: Take a wire brush to the calipers to rough up the surface and give the paint
a better adhesive surface. I sprayed brake cleaner on the assembly before and after using the wire
brush to remove any grease and break dust.<img border=1 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper2.jpg>
Step 3: Using a trick gleaned from the Haynes manual, remove the lower 17mm bolt on the
calipers, rotate up, and secure into place with length of wire from the caliper to the upper control
arm. (I found it was unnecessary to compress the caliper piston. If it is needed, refer to the article on
brake pad replacement)
Step 4: Mask off areas of calipers and rotors you don't want painted or hit with over-spray. I tend to
err on the side of caution and go overboard with the tape. For maintenance sake, I did not paint over
the rubber boots on the outside of the caliper bolts.<img border=1 width=250
src=files/paint_calipers/caliper3.jpg>
<img border=1 width=250 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper4.jpg>Step 5: Paint. Apply 3-4 coats,

allowing for sufficient drying time between coats.
Step 6: (Optional) While the opposite side calipers were drying, I decided to hit the lug plate with
the brush and some black high-temp paint to hide any surface rust. Following the same basic steps
of the calipers, I cleaned, masked off, and applied 3-4 coats of paint.<img border=1 width=250
<img border=1 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper7.jpg>Step 7: Remove all masking material. Even

with my over-abundance of tape, some paint made it on to the rotor. It was easily removed with
acetone and a rag and then sprayed again with brake cleaner (careful not to hit the newly painted
areas).
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Step 8: Reassemble calipers. Remount wheels. Make sure to torque all lugs to proper specs.
Step 9: Open cold beverage and admire your handy-work. <img border=1 width=200

By: joegio250
List of needed materials:
- Bulldog adhesion promoter

- SEM- high build primer
- Dupont chroma base (Black Sand Pearl)
- Dupont chroma system base maker
- Dupont clear coat (460-00 select clear)
- Dupont activator
- Red scotch brite pad
- Comet cleanser
- HVLP mini spray gun ($25 on Ebay)
- Air compressor with at least 2HP.
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<img width=200 height=150 border=1 src=files/grille_paint/01.jpg border=1>
I'm no professional at paint and body so I called around to different body shops for tips on
painting chrome. The paint supply place is also a good source of information. The manufacturer of
the adhesion promoter claims they can even get paint to stick to glass with their product. All the
people I talked to recommended this stuff. I bought some extra paint and clear for future paint mods
on my Taco. I spent about $150 (including paint gun) for this project. It took me about 4 hours to do
in my backyard. You can get a professional job with a decent gun and good paint products. This is
the first time I used an auto spray gun and auto paint but found it to be fairly easy. I will take you
thru the step-by-step process on how I did the prep and paint work on my grille.

Here is a picture of the grille and corners before prep work with the chrome finish.

The first step in the prep process is to use the scotch brite pad and Comet. The Comet acts as the
abrasive along with the scotch brite pad. The goal here is to make all the chrome have a brushed
aluminum look You don't want to go all the way down to the plastic because this will create peeling if
you don't remove all the chrome. You just want to ruff up the surface and get rid of the shine. Here
is a picture of the grille after the first step of preparation.

The next step is to apply the adhesion promoter to the areas to be painted. This stuff goes on clear
so you need to make sure all the chrome is sprayed. I chose to paint the entire grill to save time on
masking and to match the truck until I put in a billet grille insert. Let the adhesion promoter dry for
about 15 minutes before the next step. For the next step I used some high build primer to cover up
the chrome and to help the surface stand up to chips. Here is a picture with both the adhesion
promoter and primer applied.
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Now comes the fun stuff. Time to lay down the basecoat. I mixed the chroma base color and the
chroma system base maker. I sprayed about 3 good coats of base color making sure to pay attention
to the fat parts of the grille. After the paint dried for a little I then sprayed the clear. I laid down
about 4 good heavy coats of clear. The clear took a long time to dry so check it before you try reinstalling the grill. This is what took the most time. Waiting for the clear to dry. The only downfall
about doing it in your yard is dust in the air that sticks to the clear as it dries. I would suggest doing
it in the garage if you don't have access to a paint booth. Even though I sprayed in my yard, the
overall paint job came out pretty good.
Here's a picture of the grille back on the truck:
Pinch Weld Mod

By: Randy Hobart
For those of you who like to run larger and/or wider tires under minimal lift, here's an easy little
way to gain some tire clearance. The pinch weld mod is probably one of the more common fixes for
minor tire rub. When I refer to "pinch weld," it isn't exactly a "pinch weld" per say, but in fact a
protruding body seam that is "pinched" together and spot-welded.
When you mount your new tires and crank the wheel, the initial rubbing you feel and hear is
actually the plastic inner-fender that covers the pinch weld. So, that is the first thing that needs to
go.
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Starting with the front driver's side, looking at the wheel, take a look at the inner-fender plastic
behind the wheel, near the floorboard of the truck. You'll notice that the plastic has a slight hump
protruding out, which is obviously a source of rubbing. The first thing to do is cut out the plastic
around the hump.
With the plastic cut away, you will see the spot-welded body seam, which was the reason for the
hump. This is what is being referred to as the pinch weld.
Here's the fun part - you get to whip out your hammer for this one. Simply tap (or pound) the
body seam flat, so that it doesn't protrude anymore. For some fellas, they just whack the daylights
out of it until it is flat. But for others, like me, who prefer something less unsightly, you can be a little
more gentle with it and simply tap it over flat. I even went to the extent of wrapping my hammer
head with an old cloth to keep from scratching the paint.
Repeat this process for the other side. That's it. Pretty simple, huh? This completely cured my
rubbing issues. But each setup is going to be different - you might have tire rub elsewhere.
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For 2001+ Tacomas equipped with a factory alarm or keyless entry, here are some programming
options that allow you to adjust the way your locks work.
The first programming option allows you to set the entry unlock to: (A) unlock the driver door with
one push, and the remaining doors with a second push OR (B) unlock all of the doors with a single
push.
Open the driver's door. Remove the key from the ignition switch.
(Complete these steps within 40 seconds)
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 2 times.
(IN - OUT - IN - OUT)
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Close, then open the driver's door 2 times.

(SHUT - OPEN - SHUT - OPEN)
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 1 time.
(IN - OUT)
Insert the key into the ignition switch and leave it in.
Close the driver's door.
Turn the key from LOCK to ON 4 times, ending at LOCK
(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK)
Wait for the locks to stop, then remove the key from the ignition switch.
On the key fob, press and release both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time.
[For all doors unlock] press and release the UNLOCK button.
[For driver door unlock] press and release the LOCK button.
Open the driver's door. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
The second programming option allows you to set the doors to lock when when the key is turned on,
and unlock when the key is turned off.
Insert the key into the ignition switch.
Turn the key from LOCK to ON 5 times, ending at ON
(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON)
Programming option (select one of the following).
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[Ignition controlled lock ON] Close the driver's door.

[Ignition controlled lock OFF] Close the driver's door twice, leaving it closed.
(SHUT - OPEN - SHUT)
Turn the key to LOCK. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
When performing the programming, the park lights may or may not flash to confirm that the
program was accepted. The only way to confirm the programming is to test them to see if they are
functioning as desired.
These procedures may or may not apply to pre-2001 models.
You can also find an official Toyota TSB on this topic by viewing this PDF.

By: Jeff
In order to perform this operation, you'll need:

- A socket set with 10-14mm sockets
- Another person - for rear seat removal
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- Door panel trim popper (optional)

This tutorial was written to illustrate the steps necessary to remove the interior parts from the rear
section of a double cab Tacoma. They can be used in conjuction with other articles in the Interior
category in this tech section for a full interior disassembly.
The first thing you should do is remove the sill panels. They are held in place with two phillips
screws each. Once the screws are removed, carefully pop the panels loose from the body of the
truck.
<img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/1.jpg border=1>
Next, you need to remove the rear seat. Make sure the area behind your rear seat is empty,
including removing the factory jack and tools.
The rear seat is held in place by two 14mm bolts in the front and 4 14mm bolts behind the seat. In
the front, you'll need to remove the trim panels to expose the bolts. In the rear, you'll need to lift
the carpet access points to reveal the bolts.
Once all 6 bolts are out, get someone to help you remove the rear seat. It's not that heavy, it's just
bulky and awkward to remove through the small rear doors.
<img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/2.jpg border=1><img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/3.gif
border=1>
Next, you'll want to remove the rear cup holder, which is attached under there the rear seat was. It
is attached with 4 10mm bolts.
Next, you'll want to remove the rear seat belts. On each side, there are three places where the seat
belt is attached to the truck. The first two are attached to the floor near the rear corners of the
truck. The final point is on the rear side panel. The third bolt is exposed by lifting the plastic cover
on the rotating seat belt mount.
<img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/6.jpg border=1><img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/5.jpg
border=1>
Once the seat belts bolts are removed, carefully remove the rear interior side panel where the third
seat belt mount was. It should be held in place by 6 or 7 clips.
You'll also want to remove the trim panel directly below the rear window.
Finally, remove the 4 grocery bag hooks. Each one is attached by a phillips screw. Once these are
removed, you can remove the rear fabric panel. It should simply slide up and out.
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By: Jimmy O'Connor
<img align=right vspace=8 hspace=8 border=1 src=files/mudflap.jpg>Ever get tired of seeing the
big, white 4WD lettering on the back of your mud flaps? Well, I did and I finally figured out a way to
remove it.
First, (for your paint's safety) remove the flaps from the truck. Next, apply laquer thinner to the
lettering. Next, rub away that white lettering using a rag.
You may find that the flaps are still embossed where the lettering was, but the big, white letters are
now gone.
Wash the thinner off of them, and then bolt the flaps back on. Sometimes it's the smallest things
that bring us the most satisfaction.

By: Jeff

- A thin flathead screwdriver
First, make sure the window is rolled all the way down. This is the door panel we are working with:
<img src=files/rear_doorpanel/1.jpg>
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Next, you'll want to remove the door handle. Remove the single phillips screw and push the
assembly to the right to release it from the door. If you choose to remove the handle from the
opening mechanism rod, this is a good time to do that as well.
<img src=files/rear_doorpanel/2.jpg border=1>
Next, remove the top of the arm rest. The arm rest pops loose by pulling slightly towards you and
up. It will most likely be very tight and a bit difficult to remove. Be careful to pull towards you as
you pull up or you may break off one of the attachment tabs.
Once the arm rest is removed, remove the two phillips screws that hold the door panel to the door.
Now, go around the edge of the door panel and pop the door panel loose. Once the door panel is
free from the door, pull slightly up on the door panel to unhook it from the top of the door.
Before you move the door panel away from the door, make sure you disconnect the power window
wiring harness. It is located just about in the middle of the panel.
<img src=files/rear_doorpanel/5.gif border=1>
With the door panel removed, you have easy access to replace speakers, install dynomat (pictured),
or repair window/door components.

By: James Laborte
<img align=left border=1 width=200 vspace=8 hspace=8
src=files/badges/remove_emblems.jpg>Most of us will agree that a clean, smooth truck is..well,
clean and smooth! An easy way to clean up your body is to remove those unsightly factory
emblems. Most Tacomas have a badge on each door and two on the tailgate. Those of you with
Xtra Cabs have an additional one on each side. They're not difficult at all to remove. Here's the
lowdown:
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Tools and materials used:

-a wagner heat gun(if you know a tinter or a body man, they usually have one) if you can't get a a
heat gun, you can use a blow dryer, but they tend to overheat.
- a can of 3M adhesive remover
- a pair of gloves
- some good polish.
First you want to heat the emblem on low heat, moving slowly from side to side. In a few seconds,
you'll be able to move the emblem. Now, slap on the gloves and slowly remove the emblem. Be
careful.. it's hot! You should able to remove it in one piece.
Next, you'll want to spray on the adhesive remover and let it sit for a few seconds. Rub off the
remaining goop with a rag.
Finally, you will have to polish out the residue that's left . This project should take no more than
about 10 minutes and you won't scratch your paint using this method.
Reader Andrew writes:
Mine came right off (02' taco) with nothing more than a clean 1 plastic putty knife. I did notice that
since it was cold outside (approx 35F), the emblem adhesive was not too sticky, so using the edge of
the putty knife to ease the emblems up, all was a snap. The emblem adhesive seems to get real
sticky at room temp.
After removing the emblems, there were some very small bits of the adhesive that came off by
rubbing with my fingernail, then I just hit each spot with wax. no heat gun and no chemicals, just a
79cent putty knife from Home Depot.
David Lamb describes his experience using a similar method using a hair dryer, thread, and 3M
Adhesive Remover:
Supplies you'll need:<img vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right width=150 border=1
src=files/badges/lamb1.jpg>
- a hair dyrer
- 2 to 3 rags (pieces of an old t-shirt)
- 3M adhesive remover - I got this at Wal-Mart for $5.00
- a hose
- a bucket
- a wash rag or spounge (whatever you normally wash your truck with)
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- car wash
- a wax - preferably with some kind of scratch removing agent in it
- a towel
- a spool of thread
- a friend (or something about the height of the badging you can lay the dryer on)
First, you need to set the dryer up in such a way that it is pointing directly at the badge. This way
you will heat up the badge and it will weaken the adhesive behind it.
<img vspace=8 hspace=8 align=left width=150 border=1 src=files/badges/lamb2.jpg>
While the badge it heating, take the thread and wrap it around your fingers like you are going to
floss your teeth
Instead of flossing your teeth, you are going to floss those badges right off your truck.
Once you've gotten the badge off, there should be a gummy substance still on your truck like silly
putty. You should easily get the door badges off in one piece, but I'm not so sure you'll get to keep
the ones off the tailgate once you've removed them.
You should just pick this off with your fingers, it's quite easy to do.
Now that the gummy stuff is off, you will still see an outline where dirt and grime surrounded the
badge.
<img vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right width=150 border=1 src=files/badges/lamb3.jpg>
Take one of the rags and apply the adhesive remover to it as stated in the directions on the can (you
may want to try a test spot, like in the bed, before actually applying it to your truck).
This process should remove the gummy substance all together, but it will not totally clean the dirt
and grime. You will probably still see an outline of the badging at this point.
Next, you will take the soap and water in the bucket and firmly wash your truck. This will almost
totally remove the outline. Dry the area you washed.
Generously apply the wax to the former badge location with a second rag (not the adhesive remover
one)
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You will need to firmly rub in in order to buff out any residue and scratches
It is now done! If you still see any residue, go over the area again starting at any one of the steps
you feel needs to be repeated

By: ParkRat
In order to perfrom this operation, you'll need the following tools:

First, make sure the window is rolled down all the way. This is the door panel we are working with:
<img border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel1.jpg>
Remove the black trim piece attached to the pillar. You can pry it off with a flat head screw driver. It
pops right off.
<img border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel3.gif>
Next, pop the screw hole covers off the armrest. Again use a thin flat head screw driver and be
careful not to scratch the plastic. Remove the screws.
Next, pop the power window/door lock panel off with a flat head screw driver. Make sure you start
with the upper part close to the power mirror switches (see orange arrow). Disconnect wires from
the door locks and power window unit.
<img width=200 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel3.jpg>
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Next, remove the phillips screw holding the door handle on. Once this is done push the door handle
towards the door hinges and it will release from the door. Then you can pull on it and it will be loose.
The door panel is held on by red plastic tabs that snap into the door itself. Using a flat head
screwdriver (or door panel removal tool) pry up on the door panel around the edges. Be careful.
They should pop out pretty easy.
At this point you should be able to lift up on the door panel and it will release from the top edge. You
may have to turn the panel a little to slide the door handle through the opening. Disconnect the
cable from the tweeter and your door panel is now off!
<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel9.jpg>Door handle still attached

<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel10.jpg>Disconnect tweeter harness
<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel11.jpg>Naked door skin

src=files/headlight_install/before.jpg>One of the easiest (and most noticable) modifcations you can
perform on your truck is replacing the factory headlights. A set of high-quality aftermarket
headlights can not only improve the appearance of your truck, but can also improve your nighttime
vision.
When shopping for aftermarket bulbs, it's important to make sure you purchase the correct bulbs.
For all Tacoma models, you'll need to purchase size H4 bulbs.
Installing aftermarket bulbs (or replacing a blown factory bulb) is easy. Click the arrow below then
follow the directions on the following pages. If you have questions or comments about this
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procedure, email CustomTacos.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When performing this procedure, it is VERY important NOT to touch any part
of the glass lens on either the old or new bulbs. Oils from your fingers can rub off on the bulb and
cause them to spontaneously blow when powered on.
<img src=files/headlight_install/remove_cap.jpg border=1>
It is helpful to go ahead and unpackage the new bulbs before you start. Since it is so important not
to touch the glass lenses, I found it helpful to open the packaging of the new bulbs first.
Pop the hood and locate the back of the headlight assembly on either side. Since the battery is on
the driver's side of the truck (thus making it harder to work with the rear of the headlight), I found it
easiest to do the passenger side headlight first.
Remove the rubber cup weather seal from the wiring harness.
<img align=left src=files/headlight_install/unhook_clamp.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/headlight_install/unhook_clamp.jpg border=1>
There is a small metal spring-loaded clip that holds the actual bulb in place. Unhook the clip the
release the bulb. Be careful not to let the bulb fall out.
<img src=files/headlight_install/empty_socket.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/headlight_install/new_bulb.jpg border=1>
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Install the replacement bulb. It has three tabs on it that will slide into the slots on the headlight
assembly.
<img src=files/headlight_install/install_bulb.jpg border=1>
<img src=files/headlight_install/replace_cap.jpg border=1>

Replace the rubber cap on the headlight assembly. This is the trickiest part of the installation.
Make sure that the wiring harness is securly on the bulb and that the rubber cap is completely on.
That's it. Turn on your headlights and make sure that both bulbs power on.

By: RevHard6
So, if you're like me, you wait until the squeal from your clutch pedal is driving you absolutely
insane then you do something about it. Replacing the clutch pedal bushings is a fairly straight
forward project. It also seems to be a near annual event for my truck. You will need the new
bushings, a few tools, and an hour or so to complete the replacement.
Toyota Part Numbers for Replacement Bushings:
90386-05018 - 2 ea (Round for the sides of the spring)
90389-05017 - 1 ea (U-shaped for the center of the spring/pedal groove)
90386-1307 - 2 ea (Round for the center pivot tube of the clutch pedal)
90386-08002 - 1 ea (fork plunger through pin bushing)
90949-03022 - 1 ea (spring)
Tools used:
3/8 ratchet
Various ratchet extensions
14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets
14mm wrench
Philips/Standard screwdriver
Channel locks
Grease
Brute strength
1. Refer to the Dash Take-Apart Instructions, Steps 6, 7 & 8 to give your self some working room.
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2. Remove the 12mm bolt from under the dash. This is where a long ratchet extension comes
in handy. A universal ratchet joint may be used as well, but I found it to be more of a pain to try to
get it to line up with the angle of the bolt.
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3. Pop the hood to access the clutch master cylinder (CMC). There are two 12mm nuts that
are on the body of the CMC that attach to studs that go through the firewall. These two studs are
holding the clutch pedal assembly to firewall under the dash inside the cab. Once the two nuts are
removed, GENTLY pull the CMC towards the front of the truck to free the studs from the CMC.
WARNING - the CMC is plumbed with solid tubing. Be very careful in moving the CMC around to
avoid kinking the lines!
4. The clutch pedal assembly is now free of the firewall. You must now get back under the
dash to access the fork/plunger assembly that attaches the clutch pedal to the CMC. The
fork/plunger is connected to the clutch pedal via a trough-pin that is held in place by two small
tension washers and a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and push the through-pin out of the
assembly.
BE CAFEFUL to account for the two small tension washers that are on either side of the through-pin,
they are easy to loose. Remove the two electrical connections on either side of the clutch pedal. The
clutch pedal assembly should now be completely free and can be removed with a little creative
wiggling. Again, be careful not to be to forceful with the fork/plunger connected to the CMC.
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5. Once the pedal assembly is removed you can inspect the bushings for replacement. If one
is shot, chances are the others are as well. Considering you have the entire pedal out of the truck,
you may as well replace all the bushings while you have easy access to the assembly. The center
spring bushing is the main culprit of the squeaking that you hear when depressing the pedal. It
eventually gets eaten away allowing for that great metal-on-metal squeal.
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6. Removing the spring is a bit of a pain. I accomplished this by securing the pedal assembly
in a vice and squeezing each coil on the spring with the channel locks. I then pried the end of the
spring out with a screwdriver. Don't worry about messing up the bushing as it's going to get
replaced. Once one side was out it was easy to wrangle the other side out. The old bushings were
then cut out of the assembly or simply fell out due to wear.
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7. Remove the pedal from the assembly using the 14mm socket and wrench. When the nut
is removed the bolt will slide through the assembly and the pedal can be removed. When the pedal
is free of the assembly pivot tube and bushings can be removed.
8. Old vs. New
From left to right: Center pivot tube bushings, U-shaped spring bushing, round side spring bushings.
9. Clean and re-grease the pivot tube and bushing. Re-install the pivot tube and bushings
into the pedal and then install the pedal into the assembly.
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10. Install and grease the three remaining bushings. Tip: For the side bushings, I used the
channel locks to squeeze them into place then tapped them in the rest of the way with the
screwdriver.
11. Re-install the spring.

Here's where the brute force tool comes in handy. The spring is a little reluctant to get back into its
perch. I placed one end of the spring into the side bushing and the center of the spring into the Ushaped bushing and pedal.
**Make sure you have the spring facing the right way before you get too far! I then used a large
screwdriver placed through the spring and levered on it. The spring then compressed enough to
where I could muscle it back into place. This step is what took the longest and caused me to curse
the most.
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12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Keep in mind not to move the CMC too much. If it all
possible, have an extra set of hands hold the pedal assembly to the firewall while you re-bolt the
CMC. When reattaching the fork/plunger of the CMC to the clutch pedal (See step 4) make sure you
re-install the two little tension washers on the through-pin.
A word of advice; although the replacement of the bushings is not terribly difficult, if your truck is
still under warranty when you get the clutch pedal squeal, take it to the dealer.

This is a guide written by user Nickefer to replace the interior lights on for your A/C Panel and Gauge
Cluster.
This article was composed based on installation in a '99, but 95.5-2004 trucks with a non-electric
A/C panel should be the same.
The lights were ordered from Super Bright LEDs. They provide a 1-Year Warranty & $5 Shipping
Tools Needed:
- Phillips Head #2 Screwdriver
- Socket Wrench
- 10mm Socket
- Needle Nose Pliers
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Bulbs Needed:
- Gauge Cluster: (2) #194 Wedge Based Bulbs
- A/C Panel: (2) #74 Wedge Based Bulbs
*I used blue, they also offer red, amber, white, green, and uv blacklight*
*I also used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb to provide sufficient light to the Fuel Gauge and Water
Temp. If my pics seem too bright they also offer 4-LED and 1-LED Bulbs*
Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store. Search Keywords:
Guage - 194
A/C Panel - 74
Now let's change some lights!
1. Remove all of your A/C Panel Controls as marked and pull the cover off to expose
your A/C Panel Bulbs.
2. Remove the (2) Factory Bulbs and replace with (2) 74 Wedge Based Bulbs (marked
below in blue). Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw to continue with dash removal (marked in
yellow).
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3. Remove the Ash Tray and Cigarette Lighter. Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw
located behind the Ash Tray.
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4. Remove the (2) Clips on each side of the lower part of your center dash. Pull it out
far enough until you see the (2) Harnesses plugged into the back of your cigarette lighters and
unplug those.
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5. Pull out your dash from the bottom up, exposing (1) Cigarette Lighter Harness and
(2) Harnesses plugged into your Airbag Controls. You only have to remove the ones marked. The
other small white harness can remain plugged in.
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6. Now for the gauge cluster. Remove the (4) 10mm Socket Screws and (1) Phillips
Head Screw to remove the lower part of your dash. Your hood release will still be connected, I just
laid it in the floor board, if you want to disconnect it (2) Phillips Head Screws are located on the
backside of the lever.
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7. Now remove (2) Phillips Head Screws below your gauges and (2) Phillips Head
Screws above.
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8. Next, carefully pull back on your dash starting from the side with your Hazard
Lights, unplug the Hazard Light Harness. The plastic around your ignition can be popped loose and
remove the harness plugged into the back of it.
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9. Once you get to the left side of your dash, you will need to reach under and unplug
your Dimmer Harness. Also if you have a manual transmission, make sure you unplug your Clutch
Start Cancel Harness. Also to make it easier reach up and pop your upper air duct apart from the
lower part. As you remove your dash around your gauges be sure to have your steering wheel all the
way down. Also i found it easier to remove if you pull back and hold onto the lever that changes the
height of your steering wheel.
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cluster in.
10. Once your dash is removed remove (4) Phillips Head Screws securing your gauge
11. You have (3) Harnesses plugged into the rear of your gauges, unplug those. I
believe if you have a tach you have (4) Harnesses.
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12. Remove your gauge cluster and turn it over, you have (4) main twist-lock bases.
The upper (2) are for your blinkers and the lower (2) are the ones you want to change. Twist the
sockets until they come loose and remove the factory bulbs from each and replace with (2) #194
Wedge Bases Bulbs. I purchased both the 5-LED Wide Angle and 1-LED bulbs just in case the 5 -LED
was too bright. I personally like the 5-LED because how the bulbs are positioned it provides enough
light to the fuel and water temp gauge, seeing as how there are only (2) bulbs to light up your entire
dash.
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13. Once you've changed your lights (but before you put your dash back together), go and plug
your gauges back in and test them out. Your lights will not turn on unless your dimmer is plugged in,
so get the panel and just plug it in. Also if a bulb appears to be out, turn the bulb around because
they are polarized.
Now put everything back together and enjoy!
The Finished Result!
Remember, I used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb. If it's too bright, I recommend trying the 1-LED, it
provides a softer blue.
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You'll notice that the A/C panel looks kinda spotty, well thats how it is. My friend did this in his ZR2
and it looked the same way. I still like it; don't care too much about it.
Also just as a disclaimer: your dimmer will not work anymore - LEDs cannot dim, they just turn off.
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I also changed my dome light for kicks. Here's a quick write-up about that:
To do this, just un-pop off the cover for your dome light. Next, take out your factory bulb and
replace it with a #3022 Festoon of your choice.
For the replacement bulb, I used a Blue 9-LED Festoon.
Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store.
Search Keywords:
Dome Light - 3022

By: Chris Lung
First, I suggest that you check your rotors for damage, warpage (usually you can check this with a
measuring caliper), or from the sensor digging into the rotor. If you suspect any damage, take the
rotor to a brake shop to have them properly turn (regrind) the rotor.
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<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/brakepads/1.jpg>Step 1: Chock back tires with

blocks, loosen the lug nuts on the tire, jack up the front you'll be working on, and set the frame on a
jack stand, and remove the tire.
Step 2: Remove the bottom 17mm bolt shown in the picture and loosen the top 17mm bolt (you
might have to do a little work to get to the top bolt with the brake line in the way, you can do it
though). Try a breaker bar or a longer ratchet or wrench to budge the bolts loose. Swing the caliper
up and zip tie it down to the control arm or whatever is handy.<img border=1 width=200
src=files/brakepads/2.jpg>
Click to zoom in
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/3.jpg>Step 3: Remove the pads and dissemble.

Keep in mind the order of which you took it apart.
Step 4: Get your new pads out of the box. Use a file and file down the edges of the pads at about a
45 degree angle. (This keeps the pads from squealing as much)<img border=1 width=200
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/5.jpg>Step 5: Rub anti-squeal on the back of the

brake pads and put the shims on in the reverse order you took them off at. Make sure you put the
little sensor on the edge of rear brake pad.
Step 6: Take a block of wood and a c-clamp, and squeeze the piston back into the caliper to where
it's flush with the boot, if you go too far you have a chance in damaging the boot. Also, make sure
your brake fluid reservoir isn't overflowing while you do this, drain the fluid as necessary. Don't get
the fluid on your paint! It will remove paint and ruin your finish.<img border=1 width=200
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/7.jpg>Step 7: Place the pads in with the outer tabs
going into the clips. Remember to put the pad with the sensor on the back of the rotor.
Step 8: Cut the zip tie and lower the caliper onto the pads. Apply some grease around the bolt that
you removed, and then tighten up both of the 17mm bolts.
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<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/9.jpg>Step 9: Turn your engine on and pump your
brakes a few times to make sure the piston now touches the pad. Add or remove fluid as needed to
get it to the max fill line. One last time make sure all your bolts are tightened down right.
Finally put your tire back on, hand tighten your lugs, lower the Taco, torque the lugs to proper specs,
and take a drive
around making sure it's all good.
Lastly, remember to always secure your truck with jack stands when performing under-vehicle
maintenace.

By: Jeff
Toyota recommends that you replace your fuel filter every 30,000 miles or 24 months. The
operation is simple and should take no more than 30 minutes. The part should cost no more than
about $15 at your local auto parts store.
Tools Needed:
- Fuel Filter (Which part # do I need?)
- Sockets: 10mm (deep-well recommended)
- Wrenches: 19mm and 14mm
- Shop rags and glass jar (to collect leaking fuel)
Depressurize Fuel System
It is VERY important that you depressurize the fuel system before you replace your fuel filter.
Failure to do so may result in injury from gasoline under pressure. Follow these steps:
1. Remove gas cap from filler neck. This will relieve the pressure in the tank.<img border=1
src=files/fuel_filter/1.jpg width=200>
2. Remove the fuel pump circuit relay to disable the fuel pump. This relay is located under the
dash on the drivers side near the fuse block. Simply pull it out and leave on the floor until you are
done.
Alternatively, you may disconnect the fuel pump harness on the gas tank. However, removing the
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circuit relay is usually much easier.

<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/1a.jpg width=200>
Under the dash<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/1b.jpg width=200>
Looking up from floorboard<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/relay.jpg width=117 height=150>
Closeup of relay
3. Start the truck and wait for the engine to stall. Once it has stalled, the fuel pressure has been
relieved. It is safe to continue.
Replace the Filter
Location: On the 3.4L V6 engine, the fuel filter is located under the truck about midway back on
the drivers side - almost directly under the driver's seat. It will look similar to the photo to the
right:<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/3b.jpg width=250>
1. Use the 19mm and 14mm wrenches to loosen the banjo bolt on either end of the fuel filter.
Have shop rags and/or jar ready as gas will begin to leak out immediately.<img border=1
<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/4.jpg width=250>2. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the
fuel filter bracket to the body of the truck. Once the bracket is loose, you should be able to
manuever the filter and bracket loose from the truck.
3. Loosen the 10mm filter clamp bolt and remove the old filter, and install the new filter in the
bracket. While doing this, take note of the direction that the filter is installed. The new filter should
have a Flow >> indicator on it. Make sure that the new filter is installed the correct direction.
Loosely tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt, leaving some room for play.
<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/5.jpg height=140><img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/6.jpg
width=250>
4. Manuever the bracket and new filter into place and tighten the banjo bolts. Tighten the 10mm
nuts that attach the bracket to the body. Tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt.<img border=1
5. Re-install the fuel pump circuit relay (or the fuel pump harness) and start the truck. The first
crank-over of the truck may result in some stuttering due to the loss in fuel pressure.
6. Check fuel filter fittings for leaks.
You're done!

This is a summary listing of the numerical light bulb designations for replacement applications on
2001 - 2004 Tacomas. The data was compiled from information obtained from Osram / Sylvania's
Lamp Replacement Guide:
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http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/
The Osram / Sylvania product numbers are widely used as the common designators for the different
bulb types.
If anything changed during the period 1995 - 2004, the listing below breaks out the subperiods
during which a designation was applicable.
If no specific years are listed, that means the Sylvania guide indicated the bulb designation applies
for the entire period 1995 - 2004.
Headlight
1995 - 1997 (Sealed Beams) = H6054

1997 - 2004 (Replaceable Halogen Capsules) = 9003
Parking Light
1995 - 2004 = 168

2001 - 2004 = 4157 (optionally)
Front Turn Signal
1995 - 2000 = 1156
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2001 - 2004 = 4157
Rear Turn Signal = 1156
Tail Light = 1157
Stop Light / Brake Light = 1157
High Mount Stop Light (3rd Brake Light)

1995 - 1996 = 921
1997 - 2004 = 168
License Plate
1995 - 1996 = 168

1997 - 2004 = 194
Back Up Light
1995 - 2000 = 1156

2001 - 2004 = 921
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Front Sidemarker = 168
Glove box = 74
Dome Light = DE3175
Step/Courtesy light = DE3021 / DE3022
Trunk/Cargo area = DE3022 (1995 - 1997 only)
Instrument - General = 194

By Wepps03Coma
This is directly from the owners manual Section 1-6 "Operation of the Instruments and Controls"
under "Service reminder indicators and warning buzzers" Subsection G "Engine Oil Replacement
Reminder Light" page 150
Clearing the "Maint Reqd" light on 2005 and up Tacoma's
This light acts as a reminder to replace the engine oil.
This light will come on when the ignition key is turned to "ON" and will go off after about a few
seconds.
When you drive for about 7200 km (4500 miles) after the engine oil replacement this light
illuminates for about 3 seconds and then flashes for about 12 seconds with the ignition key turned to
the "ON" position. If you continue driving without replacing the engine oil, and if the distance driven
exceeds 8000 km (5000 miles), the light will come on after the ignition key is turned to the "ON"
position. The light will remain on thereafter.
If the light is flashing, we recommend that you replace the engine oil at an early opportunity
depending on the driving and road conditions. IF the light comes on, replace it as soon as possible.
The system must be reset after the engine oil replacement. Rest the system by the following
procedure.
1. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position with the odometer reading shown (For details, see
"Odometer and two trip meters" on page 143 in this Section.)
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2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter knob.
Hold the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.
If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.

By: Enola Gaia
The stock Toyota seats are common objects of complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there
are often questions about installing alternative seats in Tacos. One option is to transplant better
seats from another vehicle into your truck.
This file documents some information about the installation process involved in such transplants,
based on experiences reported on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves - it is a
summary set of info and pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
There have been claims of many more installations than are listed below. That's because this listing
is limited to pointing you to substantial info on how those installations were accomplished.
Although this compilation was intended to concentrate on the 95.5 - 04 Tacomas, decent info /
writeups on earlier pre-Tacos are included as well.
NOTE: For information about mounting new aftermarket seats into your Tacoma, see the related
tech article Seat Installations II.
Option 1: Installing Stock Seats from Another Toyota Truck
Let's start with the most straightforward transplant you can try: Seats from a Tacoma / pickup of
the same generation as yours should bolt into your Taco with no modification - provided they use
the same mounting scheme as your stock seats.
The two mounting schemes used in trucks / Tacos
For Toyota trucks up through the 2004 Tacomas there are two types of mounts used for the front
seats. One type is the mount set used for the single-piece bench seat in the Regular Cab models.
The other is the mount set used for the 60/40 split bench seat and the buckets in all Tacoma models.
The specifics of these two mounting schemes seem to remain consistent within each of the Toyota
truck generations (e.g., 1989 - 1995 pre-Tacos; 1995.5 - 2004 Tacos, etc.). However, they are not
consistent across generations, even for the same type of seats.
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For all generations, there are no more than 8 stock holes (or molded hole locations) in the cab (4
per side). In some cases (especially the single-piece bench seats) seats are factory installed using
fewer than the available 8 holes. Any unused holes will be either (a) pre-drilled but plugged or (b)
not drilled out. Unused holes will not have a nut on the underside (like the ones that get used).
Swapping between Taco / truck 60/40 split bench and bucket seats
Generally speaking, you can swap 60/40's and Tacoma buckets easily, because they use the same
mount layout. This is pretty much guaranteed to be a straightforward swap so long as the seats are
from the same generation of truck / Taco.
However, the 60/40 brackets and the bucket brackets (and in some cases the seats themselves)
aren't of identical height. This means you may have to do some modding / fabbing to match your
original seat height.
Swapping between Taco / truck single (one-piece) bench and bucket seats
The most common factory seat swap people ask about is replacement of a single-piece bench seat
in a Regular Cab with factory buckets.
The single bench mount set is not sufficient for mounting either a 60/40 split bench or a pair of
Tacoma buckets into your Tacoma / pickup. Depending on your truck's generation, the basic bench
seat may be mounted using as few as 4 and a maximum of 6 bolts. Toyota truck buckets require 8
bolts (4 per seat).
You should never install seats using fewer bolts than the mounting scheme is designed for. If there
is provision for 4 bolts per side, use all 4. Three bolts and wishful thinking may not be enough to
keep your butt in place during an impact.
In the worst case, you may have to drill holes in your floorboard to accommodate the additional
bolts. In the best case, you may be able to use an existing bolt hole with no more effort than
removing a plug or drilling through the factory-molded location.
In our forum, Richie Rich has provided a good writeup on his bench-to-bucket swap in a '96 Regular
Cab:
FWIW, I just got done putting buckets out of a 2000 extra cab into my 96 Tacoma.
Out of the 8 bolt holes needed, 6 of them were lined up and ready to go. I had to lift the carpet up
to find the front inners but they were there. Just cut some small holes in the carpet for the bolts and
you are good to go.
The outer rears lined up perfectly but the bolts from the bench seat were too short.
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The inner rears were the only real work. You would think they would bolt to the holes left vacant by
the seatbelt buckles from the bench seat but they don't. They actually bolt to the trans tunnel.
Toyota at least stamped the location of the holes on the floorpan. All I had to do was punch the
centers of the spots and drill em out.
Since there are no nuts welded to the underside of the floor at those locations I had to use nuts. Be
sure to use large, thick washers on the underside of the floor, I had to get out the BFH to give the
washers a nice curve to match the trans tunnel. Oh yeah, use lock washers too, so they don't work
loose.
One more thing, out of the 6 bolts that hold the bench seat and seatbelts in, you can only reuse two
of them - the fronts.
I had some extra front bolts in my magic bolt can, I reused the seatbelt anchor bolts as the inside
rears. The only thing I had to get were 2 nuts for the inside rears and two longer bolts for the outer
rears. It was about $6 for the hardware at the local Toyota dealer. I am sure I could have saved
money by going to a hardware store but did not feel like trying a bunch of crap that wouldn't fit.
With the seats two notches from the rear, they can be reclined two notches backwards. Very comfy
compared to my bench, and much more stylish.
Option 2: Installing Stock Seats from Other Vehicles
In general, any seats physically capable of fitting within your cab are candidates for transplants.
Besides those for which substantial install info is listed below, I've found specific claims (and in some
cases even photos) of transplants involving seats taken from: Acura NSX, Camaro Z28, Chevy S-10,
Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Nissan Sentra, Pontiac FireBird, Toyota MR2, and Volvo S80.
Once you go outside the Toyota mini-truck family to get your transplant seats, your biggest hassles
will be with the mounts / brackets / sliders. It is fair to say that the mounts beneath the seats will
end up causing you more headaches than the seats themselves. In some cases, you may be able to
graft the other seats onto your stock mounting brackets. In other cases, you may need to modify
the other seats' mounts and use them.
Odds are you'll be doing some custom fabrication / surgery in transplanting seats from other
vehicles. One reason is that such seats will probably have mounting hardware peculiar to their
original vehicle. This means you aren't likely to be able to fall back on simply buying a stock
aftermarket bracket as you can when dealing with (e.g.) Sparco, Corbeau, or Recaro aftermarket
seats. There are cases where this will work - all I'm saying is that you cannot assume it will always
work.
The entries below offer info and pointers to info on transplants of other vehicles' seats into Toyota
Tacomas / pickups. The entries are organized by brand of seats transplanted, and listed
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alphabetically by (car) brand name.
Acura Integra Seats
http://www.wildyoats.com/cheap_tricks.htm
This is a very brief writeup about swapping buckets from a 1988 Acura Integra into a Toyota truck
(not clear what year truck).
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=36057
A YotaTech post containing a brief summary plus a photo of 1989 Acura Integra seats swapped into
a 1990 Toyota XtraCab.
Honda Civic Seats
Here at CustomTacos, 3Point4Tacoma writes of a seat swap into his 1996 XtraCab:
The 2 front holes damn near matched. I had to take a hammer to the seat brackets and hammer
them to the right angle. Then, I took a drill and widened the holes on the front brackets. For the
back, I just had to drill 2 new holes and bolt them up since the civic tracks were a little shorter. I
didn't do anything to plug the old holes up other than put the old bolts back in it's place.
Honda CRX Si Seats
In this thread, ToY SpD provides some experiences and photos from his install of CRX Si seats into
his 1994 Regular Cab.
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Mitsubishi Eclipse Seats
ENOSHbeatpuppet (96 Tacoma owner) wrote at CustomTacos:

I put some 96 eclipse seats in my truck. The back of the seat is a little lower, but its fine for now.
Bolted 1 in front and 2 in back, w/ homemade brackets. (just flat pieces of metal and made the
seats fit w/ some creativity).
Subaru Seats
COMMENT (YotaTech) from an 82 Toyota truck owner:

I put 87 subaru bucket seats in my 82. I found out that 79-83 bucket seat brackets bolt right up to
the subaru seat no modifying mounting holes. Those seats are way more comfortable then toyota
seats and a lot eaiser to find.
Toyota 4Runner Seats
Some (but not all) 4Runner seats in some generations will also bolt into your Taco with little or no
major modification required. Typically, you can get 3 of the 4 bolts / holes to line up 'as is'.
4Runner seats are one of the most commonly-cited transplants cited - especially at offroad sites
such as YotaTech and Tacoma Territory. However, there are almost no substantial write-ups on the
transplant process. The most you'll find is illustrated by this comment from a 2004 Taco XtraCab
owner at YotaTech: I got seats out of a 94 or 95 SR5 4-Runner. All but the front inside bolts bolt
right up. They are great.
In October 2004, the following write-up appeared in a pair of postings (by a 'Greavous') to the
Tacoma Territory forum:
I have seats from a 98 limited 4runner and they fit perfectly. They are power and leather and also
match the oak interior like they came in it in 2001. All of the Tacoma seats will swap into any
Tacoma up to 2004. I have no idea what 05 does. My 01 60/40 bench was removed and bolted
straight into a 96 tacoma.
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The only Mod that had to be done to the runner seats is the front outer bracket on a runner is kinda
horizontal and the Taco's is turned down almost 90 degrees. I taped off the paint to prevent
damaging/chipping and tapped it over into place with a BFH. Elongate the hole in the bracket with a
1/2 drill bit and bolt it up. I also installed a console which used factory screws at the front and I used
a block riser and some screws into the floor pan to secure the rear.
Here's a pic but I get these things dicked up from time to time. Hope it works.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cmscow@swbell.net/detail?.dir=5282&.dnm=ee17.jpg ...
Well after I posted I recalled a couple things. First and most important is the seat belts. I found that
the latches from the 98's didn't quite click like the originals and transplanted the originals onto the
runner seats. When my bench went into the 96 the same issue arose. The latches just bolt up but if
you have the 01 bench with a folding armrest you have to dig a little to get to them. No biggie but
you need to know about it.
Second thing was wiring the seats. I used a battery charger and was able to power the seats up on
my workbench and determine what needed to get the 12 v. and ground. The ground I ran to the
closest seat mounting bolt. And the 12+ came from an add-a-fuse dooie I got at the Zone. It simply
replaces one of the fuses and has 2 fuse ports (one for the original and one for the new) and a pigtail
hanging off it.
There won't be an armrest with the seats so a console is also needed in my book.
Toyota Car (Non-Truck) Seats (In General)
Besides other pickup and SUV models in the Toyota family, the next-closest fits are Toyota buckets
from Toyota cars. Known candidates for transplants include: MR2, Camry, Corolla, and Celica. In
the best case, 3 of the 4 mounting holes will line up, and you'll need to improvise to make the fourth
bolt connection.
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Matrix seats into a Tacoma, but
no evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Toyota Camry Seats
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http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=322738
MikeB's September 2004 report (with photos) talks about transplanting 2001 Camry buckets into his
Regular Cab Tacoma. This was the first documented transplant of Camry buckets into a Taco.
Toyota Celica Seats
Celica seats are the Toyota family seats most commonly mentioned as candidates for transplanting
into street Tacomas. These are also the transplants that have been best documented.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/Celica%20seat%20install/
Two pages of photos about the process of getting Celica seats into a Tacoma. Good illustrations,
but no instructions / commentary to go along with it. (from TTORA Northern California chapter)
http://ttora-ne.net/CT/Celica_Seat_Swap/index.html
Some photos and a few tips for getting Celica seats into a '99 Tacoma XtraCab. Not much in the
way of detailed instructions or commentary. (from TTORA New England chapter)
http://www.CustomTacos.com/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Number=116763
VRacer111 (CustomTacos) provides photos and comments about his installation of 2000 Celica
GT seats into his 1998 Tacoma XtraCab. As he summarized the process in a later thread:
For the celica seats you take the floor brackets from the tacoma 60/40 split bench or bucket
seats and put them on the Celica rails. This involves cutting, grinding, adding spacer blocks to the
outside drivers side rail, and welding - but it is so worth the effort to get rid of the horrible stock
seating.
This CustomTacos thread contains good info contributed by multiple people who swapped
Celica seats into their Tacos.
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RevHard6's discussion of what it took to get Celica buckets into his 2000 XtraCab Taco.
This includes discussion about how to account for the height difference between the Taco's 60/40
and bucket brackets.
RustStang78's photos and factoids about his installation of '03 Celica seats in his 1996
Regular Cab, using Sparco brackets.
Toyota Corolla Seats
Corolla seats tend to be wider (and hence more accommodating to the larger driver) than Celica
seats. There are multiple claims about, and isolated photos of, Corolla seat installs to be found in
various Toyota truck forums. However, I could locate no write-ups on the install procedure.
Toyota SUV Seats (In General)
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping RAV4 and Sequoia seats into a
Tacoma, but no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Toyota Tundra Seats
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Tundra seats into a Tacoma, but
no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Volvo Seats
http://ttora-ne.new/newsite/new_england_ttora_volvo_seat_swa.htm
This is a write-up on putting 2000 Volvo S40 buckets into a 2002 Tacoma Double Cab. It includes a
good set of install photos, but not much in the way of instructions. (from TTORA New England
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chapter)
Volvo seats are often mentioned as candidates for transplants. This one NE TTORA write-up is the
only one I can find explaining how anyone's actually done it.

Seat Installations II: New Aftermarket Seats
By: Enola Gaia
In recent years, Toyota has consistently been awarded high marks by J D Power and Associates for
their seating. These awards have been based more on rated quality of the seats (as objects) than
these seats' quality at cradling the riders. In fact, the stock Toyota seats are common objects of
complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there are often questions about installing alternative
seats in Tacos.
This file documents some information about aftermarket seat installation options and issues, based
on experiences and products documented on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves
- it is a summary set of pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
NOTE: For information about mounting seats from other vehicles into your Tacoma, see the related
tech article Seat Installations I.
Some Basics / Background
If you want to install new aftermarket seats, you'll face more problems with the mounts / brackets /
sliders and the installation procedure than with the seat selection itself. Some aftermarket seat
manufacturers (e.g., Sparco, Recaro) offer mounting brackets for installing their products in a variety
of vehicle models. However, Toyota Tacomas are not one of the more commonly-offered models.
This means that installing aftermarket seats can involve as much improvisation as transplanting
seats from other vehicles.
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A lot of confusion relates to exactly what mounting hardware is necessary. Here are some basic
facts you need to know...
What stock mounting hardware is used in Tacomas?
Stock Toyota truck seat mounts typically are made up of two individual pieces which jointly serve as
both (a) the base connecting the seat assembly to the floor and (b) the adjustable sliding tracks that
permit the seats to be moved forward and backward. These pieces are usually separate (left and
right for a given seat), and they may not be interconnected except by the structure of the seat itself.
How big a deal are the brackets and sliders?
Selecting and obtaining the seats is the easy part... Getting them mounted into your truck is the
part that'll have you tearing your hair out. There are countless postings in car and truck forums
illustrating how owners screwed themselves by not giving proper consideration to installation
matters when acquiring cool new seats.
Another factor is cost. To completely replace your Toyota factory mounting hardware will require a
base and sliders. Depending on the manufacturer and vendor, this can run you anywhere from
around $80 to $200 per seat. For lower- and mid-range seats, the cost of installation hardware can
become a sizeable portion of the overall price. Do your homework up front, and you won't get
blindsided...
Isn't there just one general kind of mounting arrangement?
No, there's not.
There are 2 different ways in which most aftermarket street seats are designed to be attached to
their mounts. The more common type for street-style seats is a bottom mount arrangement. This
means that the seat's underside is designed to attach to a bracket or slider below. The other type is
a side mount arrangement, in which the seat is supposed to attach to mounting brackets on either
side of the seat frame. Side mounts are mainly used for racing-style seats with a rigid shell.
In general, if you want the seats to slide forward and backward, you will want a bottom mount
arrangement. Either bottom mounts or side mounts can be used if you want a static seat position
(no sliding). Side mounts are pretty much limited to static seat positioning.
You will need to be clear about the mounting arrangement that your new seats are designed for.
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Usually, aftermarket seats are designed for either side or bottom mounting. There are rare
examples (of racing-style seats or shells) where you can use either a side or bottom mount.
These are not the only mounting arrangements that you may encounter. For serious off-road
purposes, there are some seats which are designed to be mounted using a suspension pedestal or
even a rigid platform attached to the cab wall or a roll cage.
What mounting hardware is offered in the aftermarket?
The mounting hardware offered by aftermarket suppliers can vary. In most cases, however, there
will be two distinct pieces or units available to replace the functionality of the stock Toyota mounts:
Base / Bracket
When someone refers to a 'base', 'bracket', or 'mounting bracket', they usually mean a rigid metal
frame that bolts to the vehicle floor and provides a foundation onto which the seat is itself fastened.
In other words, the 'bracket' is usually just the fixed 'stand' onto which a seat can be attached. By
itself, a 'bracket' doesn't necessarily give you the ability to slide the seat backward and forward.
The most common brackets are rectangular metal frames with bolt holes configured to match the
vehicle's interior mounting scheme.
NOTE:Tacoma aftermarket brackets are of the 'tabbed' variety. This means that the bolt holes are in
the ends of 'tabs' extending from the main part of the bracket assembly. In most cases, aftermarket
brackets are single pieces that replace the separate base elements that make up the stock Tacoma
seat mounts.
Slider
When someone refers to a 'slider', they usually mean a separate frame or structure that sits
between the seat base and the seat. The slider has tracks permitting movement - allowing the seat
to go backward and forward relative to the base. By itself, a 'slider' doesn't give you the ability to
attach the seat to the floor. By the same token, the slider has to fit onto the base and the seat.
You should be careful to figure out whether you want / need 'brackets', 'sliders', or both. In some
cases, sliders aren't an option, because the manufacturer has designed its seats for fixed
positioning. In some cases, sliders and brackets are combined and sold as single retail items. In
some cases, retailers only list brackets and never mention sliders (or vice versa). Even the
manufacturers themselves contribute to the confusion. Some of their websites list both brackets
and sliders together, while others hide one or the other (almost always the sliders) under a separate
'Accessories' category.
Can't I just get by with 'universal' hardware?

There's no such thing as a single truly 'universal' mount! There are multiple kinds of brackets (e.g.,
'flat' versus 'tabbed'), and no single bracket can be expected to work for all vehicles. The Toyota
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Tacoma floor is uniquely contoured, and 'universal brackets' are not likely to work without significant
modification or fabbing. 'Universal' sliders will have to fit both the seat and the mounting bracket,
so they are another component that may need to be modified to get the install done. Finally,
different manufacturers' seats vary in their bottom structure and mounting points. This means that
whatever you're fastening to them (whether bracket or slider) may not always fit.
There may be a slider or a bracket that is 'universal' for a specific set of seats from a specific
manufacturer (or a group of manufacturers all of whose seats are closely similar), but nothing that's
'universal' for all vehicles. Separate sliders can be 'universal' only within the limits of particular
seats and / or brackets. Furthermore, there's nothing that's 'universal' to all Toyota trucks. Cab
bolt configurations are different for single bench seats versus the 60/40 split benches / buckets, and
pre-Tacos are different from Tacos.
In other words, the only thing guaranteed to be 'universal' is the hassle involved in mixing 'n'
matching bases, sliders, and so forth to get your particular seats in your specific truck.
Who can I turn to?
Naturally, the only way to assure 'universal installations' is to fab the mounts yourself. Unless you
are comfortable with DIY surgery, you may want to check with a specialty shop to see if they can
fabricate something to save you time and hassle. Some alternatives are:
Wedge Engineering in Long Beach CA (http://wedgeengineering.net) specializes in fabricating seat

brackets.
Speedware Motorsports in Redmond WA (http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com) does custom

installations, and they offer custom bracket fabrication services.
Your friendly local metal fabrication shop can probably make or modify brackets to serve your needs.
Installing New Aftermarket Seats
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The remainder of this tech article offers pointers to info on installing new aftermarket seats. There
are many manufacturers and brand names of aftermarket seats, ranging from mass market knockoffs to high-end ergonomic and professional racing models. The listings will be limited to
information on known installations and pointers to install-related resources offered by the bestknown manufacturers. The entries are listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer name.
Beard Seats
Beard (a subsidiary of Redart) makes suspension seats that are popular with hardcore off-roaders.
As such, their seats are more or less a distinct species from the usual racing and / or sports seats on
the market.
Beard has recently introduced a line of Toyota mounting kits as follows:
Toyota '84-'88 Std Cab Kit

Toyota '95-'02 Tacoma Std. & Crew cab
Because the Beard seats are designed for rough off-road duty, they are not as adjustable as other
seats. On the other hand, their bucket designs are roomier than the racing-style buckets offered by
others. Because these are suspension seats, you need to know that they tend to mount 'taller' than
sport or racing seats (i.e., you'll probably be sitting higher than in your stock seats). Though they
originally designed for fixed installation, Beard now offers sliders for their seats.
NOTE: These suspension seats' mounting arrangements are quite distinct from the usual mounts.
You may need to do some advance research to make sure what's involved.
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Beard Install (Custom-Built)
http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0211_priz/
This is a Four Wheeler Magazine writeup on the installation of custom Beard buckets into their 40th
Anniversary Tacoma Double Cab. It provides some photos and some brief comments.
Beard install (Super-Style Racing Model)
http://www.jordansrealm.com/121212beard.htm
This is a pretty good overview (with photos) of what's necessary to install the Beard Super Styles in
a Tacoma XtraCab. It was compiled by the Taco's owner.
Corbeau Seats
Corbeau makes a series of street and racing bucket seats. Corbeau is one of the few manufacturers
to offer factory mounting hardware for installing them in Toyota trucks.
The Corbeau Master Bracket Guide lists the following brackets for Toyota pickups:
PICKUP 76-78
Driver = D362T / Passenger = D363T
PICKUP 79-83
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Driver = C22028 / Passenger = C22028

PICKUP 84-88
Driver = C22023L / Passenger = C22023R
PICKUP 89-95 (BENCH)
PICKUP 89-95 (BUCKET)
TACOMA (BENCH 60/40) 95+

Driver = E1104T / Passenger = E1105T
TACOMA (BENCH) 95+
Corbeau Seat Install (A4's)
ToyComa gives some basics on his install of Corbeau A4's in a Regular Cab.
'eBay' Racing-Style Seats
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This is admittedly a 'catch-all' category. A variety of sellers are offering multiple different kinds of
'racing seats' on eBay. These are no-brand-name seats, and it's anybody's guess who made them or
how good they are. Some of these offerings carry 'TRD' emblems or stitch-ons, even though it's
pretty obvious Toyota Racing Development had nothing to do with their design or manufacture.
If you prowl through enough of the listings, it becomes apparent that there is some duplication
among the seats. They appear to have a 'family resemblance' to branded seats offered by (e.g.)
APC and other retailers, but it's impossible to pin down a firm ID.
Some of these seats are offered with 'universal brackets' or 'universal sliders'. Buyer beware - as
mentioned above, there's no such thing. You'll be needing to do some form of improvisation /
fabbing / modding to get these seats into your truck.
eBay 'TRD' Seat Install (Tacoma Territory, Oct. 2004)
http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory/messages?msg=119611.16
Tacoma Territory subscriber toyotanas wrote:
... I purchased them off Ebay and thought I was up shit creek without a paddle. Well I managed to
modify a seat bracket for the corbeau seats, which I bought off truckperformance.com. When I got
the bracket which fits in the original holes perfectly I just had to drill 4 new holes and I was good to
go because the seat came with universal sliders. ...
Notice that toyotanas ended up buying Corbeau seat brackets to modify for his installation.
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Knig Seats
NOTE:Technically, the name is 'Knig'. You'll often find them cited as 'Konig' or 'Koenig'. They
apparently gave up and use the Anglicized spelling for their U.S. subsidiary's title.
Koenig USA is the North American retail representative for this European manufacturer of highquality racing and ergonomic seats. If you're interested in sophisticated ergonomic seating, Knig is
the only real competition Recaro has in that market segment.
Information on Knig seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. It is clear, however, that
installation involves one or two items per seat:
A Knig seat adapter (base / bracket) for the given vehicle (required)
A Knig slider unit (optional)
Koenig USA doesn't offer a listing of available brackets on their website. In a summer 2004
telephone contact, Koenig USA advised me they do have a stock adapter for the 1995 - 2004
Tacomas.
MasterCraft Seats
MasterCraft makes a series of serious racing bucket seats. They are highly regarded in some circles,
but they're not commonly mentioned as candidates for installation in Toyota trucks. MasterCraft's
own website is very limited, and it's not a good source of data on their products. You can find out
more by prowling vendor sites.
Once such vendor - Macromotive - lists the following mounting apparatus for 2000 - 2002 Tacomas:
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#6310Dr = Driver Side mounting kit

#6310Pass = Passenger Side mounting kit
#6030 = Seat Slider (required for each seat)
NOTE: No, I don't know for sure whether these are MasterCraft's own model numbers.
NOTE: This listing for '2000 - 2002' Tacomas was the only confirmed Toyota truck mounting
hardware I could locate. I don't know for sure what MasterCraft may offer for other Toyota truck
models / years.
MOMO Seats
MOMO USA offers a series of racing-style bucket seats. However, the only mounting hardware they
offer are 'base slides' (sliders). These slides are not vehicle-specific, so it would appear they are to
be grafted onto an existing or fabricated base or bracket during installation.
I've seen isolated references to MOMO seats being considered for installation into Tacomas, but no
hard evidence of it having been done.
Recaro Seats
Recaro is perhaps the most prestigious name in vehicle seating, offering both racing and ergonomic
products. Information on these products can be obtained at their North American subsidiary and
their Main (German) websites.
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Information on Recaro seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. There are isolated
photos of Recaro seats installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but I've been unable to find any
detailed write-ups on the installation procedures used. There are, however, detailed write-ups to be
found on the Web in forums dedicated to other makes of cars such as BMW and VW.
Installing Recaro seats involves one or two items per seat:
A mounting bracket for the given vehicle (required)

A Recaro slider unit (optional)
Recaro themselves only offer the following brackets / bases for Toyota (pre-Taco) trucks:
Pickup 2-4 WD Bucket 84 - 88

Driver = 1.44.3 / Passenger = 2.44.3
Pickup 4 WD Extended Cab Bench and Bucket 89 - 94

Pickup 2WD Bucket or Bucket 89 - 94

In late summer 2004 I called Recaro Customer Service to ask about brackets for installing Recaros
into a 2004 Tacoma. They referred me to Wedge Engineering. Wedge was able to get me the
bracket in one week (using their 'rush order' option).
Recaro offers two types of sliders. One is a fixed / basic model. For not that much more, you can
get a 'height-adjustable' model. This one has three different sets of mounting holes you can use to
vary the height of the slider when you attach it to the base / bracket.
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Sparco Seats
Sparco makes a series of racing-style bucket seats, and they're one of the few manufacturers to
offer the mounting hardware for installing them in our trucks.
Toyota pickups and Tacomas require a 'tabbed' mounting base - one that is suspended on vertical or
angled 'tab' feet. Mounting Sparco seats requires 4 items per seat:
A
A
A
A
Sparco
Sparco
Sparco
Sparco
base unit (in our case, a 500-series base)

500 series adapter (for fitting)
slider unit (Sparco part number 00493)
hardware kit (part number 50001), or equivalent
NOTE: There have been some complaints that the number of separate components involved in
Sparco's mounting scheme leads to higher retail costs for using their seats. Be careful to take this
into consideration...
Of these, it is the base unit which is model-specific. As of October 2004, Sparco listed the following
base units for sale:
500622 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 84-88 L

500623 BASE TOYOTA PICKUP 84-88 R
5001102 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L BENCH
5001103 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R BENCH
5001104 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L OEM BUCKET
5001105 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R OEM BUCKET
Sparco offers a PDF file with tabbed base seat installation instructions (including a diagram of the
mounting apparatus) at:
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http://www.sparcousa.com/SparcoTabbedBaseSeatInstructions.pdf
Sparco Seat Install
http://www.deepstaged.net/Sparco.htm
This is a summary description of the process for installing Sparco buckets to replace a bench seat in
a Regular Cab Tacoma (exact model year unknown). Hot links lead to photos for many of the steps.
Speedware Motorsports Brackets
Speedware Motorsports of Redmond WA is a retail representative for both Recaro and Sparco seats.
They offer a full line of Recaro and Sparco factory mounting hardware. Their mounting hardware
offerings can be reviewed at http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/seat/hardware.asp.
Speedware offers their own aluminum seat side mounts for all Recaro and Sparco side mount race
seats. Speedware's own seat side mounts have more side and bottom adjustments than any other
side mount option, and they're available in four colors.
In addition, Speedware offers custom seat installations and custom seat mounting hardware. They
claim, Our engineers can design and fabricate any type of seat bracket for any type of vehicle to
insure your custom seat is a perfect fit.
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Tenzo (Tenzo-R) Seats
Tenzo Racing Sports manufactures a line of racing-style seats. These are usually referred to by the
names 'Tenzo' or 'Tenzo-R'.
They offer custom brackets and sliders for installing their products. These items must be purchased
separately, and Tenzo claims they're available 'for most cars'. However, I found no trace of any
Tenzo brackets being available for Toyota trucks. If you want to install Tenzo seats, you're probably
looking at fabrication to attach Tenzo's 'universal sliders' onto either your (modified) stock mounts or
a third-party Toyota truck base (e.g., Wedge, Sparco, Corbeau...).
NOTE: The Tenzo brackets illustrated at vendors' sites look suspiciously like Wedge Engineering or
maybe Corbeau products. I don't know one way or the other, but I suspect one of these other
companies makes the brackets for Tenzo.
I've found isolated references to Tenzo seats having been installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but
no substanital information on the installations.
Wedge Engineering Brackets
Wedge Engineering of Long Beach, CA has decades of experience in designing and fabricating seat
mounting brackets for OEM and aftermarket installations. When I called Recaro and asked for a
bracket application (2004 Tacoma) they couldn't handle, they referred me to Wedge. Wedge offers
a full line of brackets designed to fit Toyota pickups / Tacomas. If your application is peculiar,
Wedge can also custom fabricate brackets for your project.
As of October 2004 (Wedge's 2002 bracket listing), Wedge offers the following model numbers /
brackets for our trucks:
76 - + PICKUP
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Driver = 362 / Passenger = 363
79 - 83 PICKUP
84 - 88 PICKUP
89 - 95 PICKUP
89 - 94 PICKUP
95 - 99 TACOMA OEM BENCH

95 - 99 TACOMA OEM 60-40 SPLIT BENCH & BUCKETS

NOTE: If you compare the listings here, you'll see that many of the manufacturers' model numbers
follow the Wedge Engineering numbering scheme. I don't know whether this means that Wedge
makes their brackets for them, but I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case.
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By: Blangkang
When I got my 2005 X-runner I found myself bouncing off the redline because I don't look at the tach
when I drive. So, I fixed this by adding an Auto Meter shift light. I got my shift light from a friend, but
you can find them at many online retailers (like Summit Racing).
Tools needed:
- 10mm socket w/wrench
- wire strippers/crimpers
- around 5 feet of 18g wire
- handful of wire connectors and/or soldering gun & solder
- wire taps
First things first: decide where you want to mount your shift light. Make sure it's not in a location
that will obstruct your view of your gauges.
Next, on the ECU, you need to locate the Black wire with a white stripe on connector (A) pin #7.
Mine was 2nd from the bottom on my X-Runner. (The wire location might vary from different models)
You will need to tap the Black wire w/white stripe with a wire tap.
<img border=1 src=files/05_shiftlight/01.jpg>
Now that you tapped the wire I would suggest testing it to make sure, you can just hook the RED
wire to the battery and the BLACK wire to the ground. The GREEN wire goes to the Black w/white
stripe wire that you just tapped. Then start the truck with the lowest pill (RPM module) in the shift
light and give it a rev. If the light sucessfully comes on, your're ready to move on. If you don't see a
light, make sure all of your connections are correct.
With the light tested properly, run the new wire that's tapped to the Black w/white stripe to the
GREEN wire on your shift light.
Next, connect the ground wire from the shift light. I decided to connect it to a bolt near the fuse box
inside the cab. (Note: My BLACK wire coming from the Shift Light wasn't long enough so I
lengthened it with some RED wire)
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Finally, the RED wire coming from the shift light needs to be connected to a 12V + source. I
installed an inline fuse onto the RED wire just to be safe, but you can still hook up the light without a
fuse. I found a 12v source under the dash, but you can run the RED wire directly to the battery if
you prefer. If that is done, it is recommended that you add a fuse.
Once that's all hooked up, simply put everything back together and give it a test.

Below is a chart showing the size and location of stock speakers in Tacoma Regular Cabs, Extended
Cabs, and Double Cabs:
1995-2000
Front
Rear
Regular Cab
6.5
N/A
Extended Cab
6.5
6.75 (or 6.5s)
2001-up
Front
Rear
Regular Cab
6x8
N/A
Extended Cab
6x8
6x8
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Double Cab
6x8
6x8

Here are the instructions for replacing the drive assembly in the 3rd generation (grey) TRD
superchargers for the 3.4L V6 engine (5VZ-FE).

Below are the torque specifications for the front and rear suspension components on the 2005+
Tacomas, taken from the Toyota service manual:
- Front Suspension Torque Specs
- Rear Suspension Torque Specs

Recently I decided to replace the front grill of my 1998 Tacoma, so I began checking prices for an
aftermarket replacement. I always liked the appearance of the straight line billet grills, but soon
found that they ran from about $150 to $200. Not wanting to fork out that much, I sat down in front
of the old Taco and started thinking.
The first thing that jumped out at me was the big Toyota emblem in the middle of the grill. Now,
what if that wasn’t there?… and so began the project. I simply cut out the large Toyota
emblem and added a few chrome trim pieces for a total of less than $20. So if you’re looking
for a cheap way to improve the front grill appearance, here’s an idea you may like.
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"Before" view
Here’s the stock grill with the big Toyota emblem in the middle. The basic steps are to cut out
the big emblem with a Dremmel, repair the section, paint it and add some chrome trim. The whole
job took me about four hours, (with time off in between for paint drying). Total cost: less than $20
for the chrome trim pieces, a little body putty and some paint.
First Step
The first step is remove the stock grill, which is very easy to do. The grill is held in by plastic retainer
clips (several are circled in the photograph). All you do is take a narrow flathead and push down on
the back of the clip to release it. Gently work the grill out as the individual clips are released. I
didn’t do an actual count, but I’d guess there are about a dozen total.
Second Step
The next step is to remove the large Toyota emblem from the middle of the grill. As shown in this
picture, start by masking off all of the chrome to protect it. During the job I had several tears in the
masking tape that I had to patch, and those would have been scratches in the chrome if the
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protective tape hadn’t been there.
Second Step Complete

This picture shows the emblem removed. I used a saws-all to cut the emblem out and it worked
great for some of the angle cuts. The other alternative is to make the cuts by hand. Cutting the
grillby hand would be harder, but not impossible since its all plastic.
Third Step
The next step is to repair the hole. In this picture you can see the piece of heavy plastic that I bent
and glued to the back of the crosspieces. I’d recommend using something stronger, (maybe a
piece of light metal attached with countersunk pop rivets) because the glued-in plastic flexed over
time and caused small cracks in the surface putty. Nothing major, but noticeable.
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Third Step Complete

This picture shows the final repair. Both crosspieces have been backed with supportive plastic, filled
with body putty and sanded over. Now its time to sand and prime to the desired quality.
Fourth Step
With the grill sanded and primed, the next step is to paint it the color of your choice. You’ll
notice the one smaller crosspiece still has a section missing… when covered with chrome trim
the missing section is virtually unnoticeable and structurally OK. At the bottom of the picture is one
of the chrome trim pieces. They are actually door edge protectors that I bought in a local auto parts
store for less than $5 (two per package).
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Final Product
Here’s the finished product, painted to match the vehicle with adhesive chrome trim strips
installed. Use your imagination… pinstripes, different paint schemes, etc. The bottom line is
$20 or $200… your choice.
Toggled Door Buzzer
By: Randy Hobart

You're cleaning your truck at the car wash and you want to listen to the stereo
while you're working on the interior... but the door chime isn't quite flattering
to your tunes. For whatever reason, you would like to have your keys in the ignition
while your door is open, but you want the door chime to JUST STOP!!! Here's an easy
little fix that won't completely disable your door switch. Just add a toggle switch
in-line to your door button.
Adding a toggle switch is simple since the door button is simply a one-wire switch
that completes the circuit when the door is opened.
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1
2
2
2
small toggle switch

feet of 18 ga. electrical wire
female wire connectors
wire butt connectors
Tools Needed:
Phillips head screwdriver
10 mm nut driver / socket
Wire Cutters
<img src=files/121-toggle01.jpg border=1>
Procedure:
I stopped by AutoZone and picked up a tiny toggle switch. This particular one
uses a 1/2 x 3/4 opening. There is a vast array of toggle switches available your selection may vary.
Cut 2 pieces of 18 ga. wire into 12 inch lengths. Crimp female connectors to one
end of each of the wires. Depending on your mounting location, you might wish to
have longer wires.
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Connect one wire to the ground prong of the toggle switch and the other wire to one of the
power prongs. (at this point, it doesn't matter which of the 2 power prongs, either
one will work the same)
Remove the door sill trim, kick panel, and lower dash panel.
I chose to to mount my toggle switch just inside my fuse access panel. The tiny
toggle switch just happened to fit perfectly onto the side of the plastic dash frame.
Locate the door switch wiring. You may have to move components out of the way
to access these wires. I had to remove the alarm module.
The door switch wire is a
red wire coming out of the body panel, butt-connected to a small green wire.
Cut the green wire, leaving enough wire
at each end to attach a new butt-connector.
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Route the 2 new wires to the spliced green wire. Use butt-connectors to attach the
ends of the new wires. It does not matter which end matches up to the green wire ends.
Replace all of the dash components and trim pieces.

With the door open, insert your keys and toggle the switch. If all was completed properly, the key
buzzer will toggle on and off with the switch.
The inevitable downside to this toggle switch is that it also disables the dome light. It would also be
possible to add a toggle switch for the passenger door(s). But the key buzzer is only triggered by the
driver's door.
Now you have the option of turning the buzzer off. Just be sure not to lock your
keys in your truck!

Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (RS3200) keyless/security system. These
instructions were written for 2004 Tacomas and may not be applicable to other model years.

By: flowedtacoma
Read all of these install instructions prior to installing Toytec's suspension lift. I cannot be held
responsible for any damages or personal harm resulting from installing this kit... Hopefully this small
article will help you as well as others feel more confident about tackling this lift install... This is only
intended as a guide for others, so please treat it as such. I'll be adding more "How-To” article
later on in the near future as I make modifications to my truck. My intensions are to create articles
that guide one through the entire project turning every nut and bolt, etc... Enjoy this article!
Read Toytec Lift instructions in PDF format >>
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Here are the official TRD (S-Runner) body kit installation manual. Read this document in PDF format
>>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the exhaust kit for 4x4 and Prerunner Extended Cabs
and Double Cabs. Read this document in PDF format >>

Here are the official TRD instructions for installing the TRD Limited Slip Differential, a popular
modification for S-Runner owners.
View the instructions in PDF format >>

This is a guide written by user Bhavesh to install/upgrade the rear view mirror in 95.5-2004 non-SR5
trucks to the "deluxe" mirror with map lights.
Tools and Other Items Needed:
- two conductor wire
- wire cutters
- scissors
- phillips head screwdriver
- electrical tape or inline butt connectors
- the map lights from an SR5 Tacoma
- soldering iron (optional)
1. The first thing to do is take out your original mirror. Remove the cover to expose the
screws and remove them with your philips head screwdriver
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2. The new maplights take up more area than the old mirror and should already have
recesses in the roof's sheet metal to accommodate them. Unfortunately, the headliner is not pre-cut,
so first check the roof's sheet metal for the appropriate clearance, then cut out your headliner while
test fitting the maplights until it fits. I was eyeballing the cuts, so to make sure I didn't over-shoot it,
I just made small slits in the headliner until I had the right size.
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3. Step 3 is optional if your maplights already have TWO wires coming out of the connector.
If it has two wires, then no additional modification is necessary. If it only has one wire (and you
would like the maplights to turn on with the door), then you need to attach a wire to the ground side
of the bulbs.
I used the solder points on the switch as the connection to the ground side of the bulbs. So I
soldered one wire in parallel between the switch terminals, and soldered a 2nd wire coming off one
of those terminals and left it hanging on the backside of the maplights. Here is a picture of the
completed wiring:
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again, use of a soldering iron is optional. As long as you connect a wire to the bulb grounds,
then you can still add a "door ground" to a set of map lights that only has one wire coming out of the
back
Also, I lost my connector, so I squeezed a spade lug until it would stay snug on the pin
if you do add your own wires, MAKE SURE you know which wire is your ground, and which wires is
your +12 constant lead
4. Running the wires: this part concerned me because I didn't know how I would get a wire
past the metal supports for the headliner. Fortunately, they bend easily and can be negotiated to
snake a wire through.
So I just took a wire coat hanger, straightened it out, and started snaking it straight towards the
front of the truck until I hit one of the headliner support bars. When this happened, I reached my
hand through the headliner (where the dome light used to be) and pushed down on the headliner
until the bar bent down from the roof, and allowed the coat hanger through. I repeated this method
until I had the coat hanger coming out of the mirror hole and the dome light hole to get a wire
through, I just tied it to one end of the coat hanger, and slowly pulled it through. Make sure you use
a 2-conductor wire.
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5. The next part was attaching your wires to the dome light. I didn't bother with the
soldering iron because the metal tabs were easily accessible, so I just wrapped the constant +12
wire around the bulb terminal, and the "door ground" wire around one of the pins where the
connector plugs in
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6. The last step is attaching your +12 lead to your map light wire, and the "door ground"
lead to the wire you connected to your bulb grounds. Note that if your map lights came with a 2-pin
connector, then that's where you connect your "door ground" lead to.
Re-mount your new map light, and test it out!
Results: I am very happy with them as there is more lighting in the front. Unfortunately Toyota uses
rinky dink bulbs in their taco lighting, so it wasn't a difference of day and night. Instead, it adds more
light that faces backwards, and makes the interior bright enough that you're not rummaging for
extra light.
Update: The map lights do make a big difference...when I'm trying to read something at night, and I
have both the dome light, and the map lights on, I have no trouble because it's pretty bright in there

BoostError's rundown of a full prep and polish of a car using Zaino car car products:
Wash with dawn

Rinse
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Wash with Z7 and rub the claybar while it's wet

Rewash with Z7, wash the rims with Z7 at the same time. Just use the soap out of the bucket. I
do it every time. Works 1000x better than rim cleaner
Rinse without the sprayer (aka let the water dribble from the hose)
DF.
Blow with leaf blower to make drying easier, or just use towels. I still recommend MicroFiber or
Spray car with Z6, wiping dry as you go, in small areas. 1/2 body panel at a time is how I do it.
Mix up less than 1/2 bottle of Z5 and 2-3 drops of ZFX, shake for 1 minute, let sit for 5 minutes to
activate.
Put on coat using forward/backward motion on hood/roof/tonneau, up/down on doors/bed/etc.
Use a couple spritzes of Z6 on the applicator to make it much easier, especially on subsequent coats.
Don't forget door jambs, grill, bumpers, GLASS (trust me), and RIMS.
Drink a beer, sit on your ass, or otherwise occupy 30-45 minutes.
Wipe Z5 off. Should come off as if it were never there, if not, wait 15 minutes and try again.
Z6 actually HELPS remove the polish, so a LIGHT spritz on the cloth helps.
Z6 entire vehicle again, in small sections as always
Reapply Z5 as soon as you wish (I generally wait about 8.23 seconds)
Repeat for a maximum of 3 coats.
I recommend doing 3 coats of Z5 to completely hide/eliminate swirls.
If you still have swirls, do three more coats the next day. DO NOT DAWN/CLAY the truck, just
wash/dry, or if it's not even dirty, just Z6 it.
Once swirls are gone and you wipe the drool off, mix up less than half a bottle of Z2 with 2-3
drops of ZFX (however much Z5 you used, mix slightly less Z2, as the coats on there already will
make it easier to apply).
Same procedure. Apply, cure, remove, apply, etc...
Maximum of 3 coats in a single day of either polish. Switch back and forth as often as you want,
but finish up with Z2 for a deeper shine. The more coats the merrier. Expect EASILY 6 months of
perfect shine from one measley coat.
Z5 and Z2 both work just fine on wheels, Z16 works GREAT on tires and black bumper valences
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like mine. Apply a coat, let it dry, and do a few, and they'll be a nice deep black.
BTW: With Z5/Z2'd rims, dirt and brake dust wash right off and never stain.
Your mileage may vary.
Wheel Backspacing and Offset

Before mounting a set of aftermarket wheels, there are some dynamics involved with fitment that
are best to understand first.
1. Wheel Diameter. This is the diameter of the wheel. Stock wheels are commonly 15 or 16 inch
diameter. This dimension is usually in 1 increments (i.e. 15, 16, 17) but some manufacturers offer
16.5, which is rare.
2. Wheel Width. This is the width of the wheel, measured inside the outer lip of the wheel. This
dimension is usually in 1/2 increments (i.e. 7.5, 8)
3. Wheel Center. This is the center of the wheel in relation to the width.
4. Offset. The distance from the centerline of the wheel to the face of the mounting surface of the
wheel that contacts the hub.
4.1 Zero Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is at the wheel center.
4.2. Negative Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is behind (or inboard) the centerline of the
rim. This is often found on standard rear-wheel-drive vehicles and on so-called reversed rims.
(Diagram below shows negative offset)
4.3 Positive Offset. Indicates the mounting surface is in front of (or outboard) the centerline of the
rim. This is often found on front-wheel-drive vehicles. Stock Tacoma wheels have Positive offset.
5. Backspacing. The distance from the mounting surface to the inside lip of the wheel. This
measurement is closely related to offset (without actually measuring, backspacing is about equal to
[Wheel Width / 2] + [Offset] + [about 1/4] ).
6. Centerbore. The centerbore of a wheel is the size of the machined hole on the back of the wheel
that centers the wheel properly on the hub of the car. This hole is machined to exactly match the
hub so the wheels are precisely positioned, minimizing the chance of a vibration. This measurement
may be critical to clear the hubs of a 4WD.
7. Bolt Circle. Also known as PCD (Pattern Circle Diameter). The bolt circle represents the diameter
of an imaginary circle that goes through the center of the bolt holes. 4x2 Tacoma Bolt Circle: 5 lug
on 4.5 PCD; 4x4/Prerunner Tacoma Bolt Circle: 6 lug on 5.5 PCD.
<IMG src=http://www.customtacos.com/tech/files/40-RWD-Wheel-diagram.jpg>
(Diagram: Alloy Wheel Cross-Section)
By: AFP520
Here's a quick install demonstration for a Nu Image white face climate control panel.
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<img src=files/118-175081-MVC-006F.jpg border=1>
Here is the stock control panel compared to the new panel.

The panel is like an adhesive sticker, but it does not mount over the factory panel.
The factory black piece is simply mounted with adhesive backing. Use a small flathead screwdriver
to pop it out a bit and it comes right off.
Carefully and slowly apply the new white face control panel.
There you have it... a new white face climate control panel.
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4x4-Specific Tech
CV Boot Replacement
By: Ched Hurley
With only one CV joint (inner) being rebuildable on the Tacoma front axle shafts, Toyota sells the
boots in a kit. In the kit you get both inner and outer boots, boot clamps, c-clips, and grease.
everything needed to replace the boots. Since the newer trucks mostly have ADD (Automatic
Disconnecting Differential) versus manual hubs, I'll cover the ADD axles. The manual hubs aren't all
that much different and anyone with basic mechanical knowledge can figure out how the cam in a
manual hub works. That is if they pay attention to the indexing splines.
After securing your Tacoma on jack stands, remove the front wheels. This allows ample room inside
the wheel well to access the shafts. Now that you have all the access needed to remove the shafts,
let's start the teardown.
Remove the hub dust cover. These are sometimes tight. I use a chisel and hammer to start it and
once the lip moves back enough to fit a wide flathead screwdriver in, I pry it off.
Remove cotter pin from the axle, slide the thin metal axle nut cover off the axle nut, and remove
axle nut using a 36mm socket.
Now the axle is ready to slide out the back of the spindle but first we need to separate the lower ball
joint...
Remove the four bolts on the lower control arm that hold the flange of the bottom ball joint together.
(To keep the lower control arm from separating with the force of the compressed spring on the strut
I use a small floor jack to support the lower control arm. Once the 4 bolts are removed, I let the jack
down slowly until the strut is fully extended.)
Pull the bottom of the spindle outward and slide it off the shaft. Once off the shaft, go ahead and
position it out of the way, the best you can. (I position them to the rear of the wheel well.) Here's
where a choice of methods come in. You can either remove the entire shaft assembly from the
differential or remove just the axle and outer joint from the tripod joint. I prefer to remove the entire
shaft because I find it's easier to install the inner boot but this requires draining and refilling the
differential. Since removing the entire shaft cost about an extra $15 to $20 in fluid, and the front
differential being awkward to fill, I'll cover the method of separating the axle from the tripod joint.
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Cut the inner boot entirely around its circumference. This will allow the axle to slide out of the tripod
joint with a slight tug.
The next step is to remove the tripod bearing from the shaft. This allows the boots to be able to be
installed by sliding over the shaft. To remove the tripod bearings, remove the c-clip holding the
tripod bearing on the shaft. (It's the bigger one of the two in the kit.)
Slide tripod bearing down shaft until the enclosed retaining c-clip is exposed. (It's the smaller one of
the two in the kit.)
Remove the inner retaining c-clip and slide the tripod bearing up and off the shaft. Now that you
have the shaft completely broken down, all that's left before reassembly is cutting the old boots off
and thoroughly cleaning the exposed joints.
Once clean, repack the outer joint putting the excess grease into the new outer boot. Slide boot over
shaft and install over joint.
Burp the boot. Try to get all the air you can out of the boot. (It might help to use a small screwdriver
to pry on the lip of the boot with one hand while squeezing the boot with the other hand.)
Clamp the boot on tight.
Slide the inner boot down onto the axle. DO NOT clamp the boot as it needs to be indexed with the
flat sides if the tripod joint first!!
Now it's time to install the tripod bearing you just worked so hard to remove. Slide the tripod bearing
on shaft until the inner retaining c-clip groove is exposed and install c-clip.
Slide tripod bearing up until the splines hit the inner c-clip and it will no longer slide (this should
expose the big c-clip groove) and install c-clip.
Pack both the tripod bearing and tripod joint (still in the diff.) with grease.
Slide shaft back into the tripod joint on the differential.
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Index and slide boot into place.
Clamp smaller ring of boot tight.
Burp inner boot.
Clamp bigger ring around the boot on the tripod joint.
Slide spindle over axle.
Using floor jack, jack up the lower control arm into the spindle and align bolt holes in bottom ball
joint flange. Install the four bolts and tighten.
Install axle nut and tighten using 36mm socket.
Install axle nut cover and cotter pin.
Install hub dust cover.
Install wheel, tighten, and remove vehicle from secure jack stands.
Clean up tools, work area, and yourself. Go Wheelin'!
When lifting the front of your 4x4, the angle of the front drive shafts increases
and may cause premature wear on your CV joints. One simple remedy is to lower the
front differential. This is accomplished by simply installing drop spacers. There
are a number of companies who offer a spacer kit for this particluar application this article explains how it is done.
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Parts Needed:
(2) -13 X 8 Grade 5 Zinc Hex Bolts
(2) -13 Zinc Nylock Nuts
(2) M8x1.25 X 35mm Zinc Hex Bolts
(2) M8 Zinc Flat Washers
(2) Differential Spacers*
* Although it is not highly recommended, a 1 stack of
Zinc Washers could be used in place of each differential spacer.
1. Remove both skid plates under the front

of the vehicle. Save (9) OEM 12mm bolts.
2. At the differential mounts, loosen the (2) OEM 19mm x 7 bolts and nuts, allowing the front
differential to hang loosely. Save the OEM washers.
3. Working on one side at a time, remove one OEM bolt from the differential mount, with the other
bolt hanging the differential in place. Install a spacer between the differential support and front
cross-member. Place the OEM washer onto a new -13 X 8 bolt and insert it up through the
differential support. Place a nut on the new bolt, but do not tighten.
4. Repeat step 3 for the other side of the

differential mount. Once both bolts and spacers are in place, tighten the bolts.
Torque to 75 ft-lbs.
5. Install the FRONT skid plate using (3)

OEM 12mm bolts on the front and (2) new M8x1.25 X 35mm bolts in the rear. DO NOT TIGHTEN YET.
6. To install the REAR skid plate, elongate

the rear mounting holes with a file for fitment. Once holes are elongated, mount
rear skid plate with OEM 12mm bolts.
7. Torque all skid plate bolts to 55 ft-lbs.
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By: J. Orrand, TTORA - Tennessee Chapter
Toyota made the differential lock feature available in 4Lo only on TRD 4WD Tacomas. Several
theories have been tossed around as to why Toyota did this, but the most sensible is that they are
covering themselves legally, as driving at higher speeds with a locked rear differential can be an
interesting experience. One odd thing, however, is that on Pre Runner Tacomas, the locker is
available at all speeds since there is no transfer case to dictate when the locker can be activated.
We all know how helpful a locking differential is off hwy. Using the locker in 4Hi as well as 4Lo is
desirable. Two methods have been devised to defeat this 4lo only locker option. The first was a
modification to the blue plug that is connected to the transfer case/transmission combo. The
problem with modifying the locker using this Blue Plug Mod was that it made the main ECU think the
vehicle was in 4lo all the time, thus effecting shift points on automatic transmissions. This was an
undesirable side effect.
The second and preferred method is known as the Gray Wire Locker Mod. The 4WD computer is
tied to the main ECU. A gray wire is shared between these two computers. When the vehicle is
placed in 4Lo a ground signal is sent down this gray wire to the 4WD computer. This ground signal
allows the locker to be activated should the button be depressed. The ground signal also goes to
the main ECU telling it the truck is in 4Lo and thus changing the shift points. By sending a ground
signal ONLY to the 4WD computer, the locker may be activated in 2Hi, 4Hi, or
4Lo, yet the main ECU is not effected so the shift points will only change if the truck is actually
in 4Lo.
TOOLS REQUIRED:
To complete this mod youll only need some wire cutters, a 12 piece of wire, a butt connector, a ring
connector, some electrical tape and a philips head screw driver. If you want to match the wire in the
truck, you'll need 18ga. I had 14ga on hand so that's what I used and it worked fine.
The 4WD computer is located behind the drivers side kick panel. To get to it, just remove the four
screws in the door trim, and pop it out the trim out. The kick panel will then slide out.

DRIVER'S SIDE KICK PANEL
REMOVE DOOR TRIM SCREWS
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locker%20Mod%20Panel%20small.jpg>
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Remove%20Screws%20small.jpg>
The 4WD computer is toward the back of the panel area close to the firewall. It's obvious which box
is the 4WD computer by the decal placed on it.
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4WD COMPUTER LOCATION
LABEL
4WD COMPUTER

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Computer%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Computer%20Close%20Up%20small.jpg>
Simply unplug the white connector going into the 4WD computer and remove the tape and
protective sheathing.
UNPLUG THE WHITE CONNECTOR
<IMG border=1 SRC=files/Connector%20small.jpg>

Make a 12 patch wire. If you want to match the size of the gray wire then use 18ga wire for the
patch. I used 14ga since that's what I had on hand, and it worked fine. Crimp a butt connector on
one end of the patch wire, and a 3/8 ring connector on the other end. Once you're sure both the
ring and butt connector are secure, cut the gray wire about 3 from the white 4WD computer
connector and splice the patch wire to the gray wire. Make sure you splice into the end coming from
the white connector.
Note: In some rare cases, there is a different color wire used in place of the
grey wire. The best way to identify the correct wire is to locate prong
number 8. This wire is in the bottom middle of the plug, between a
green/yellow wire and a white/black wire. See this wiring diagram for more info.

12 PATCH WIRE
SPLICE PATCH WIRE INTO GRAY WIRE

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/12%20Inches%20of%20Wire%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Splice%20Gray%20Wire%20small.jpg>
Next, locate a screw to ground to. Any screw going into the
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body will work. The one I used is right above the 4WD computer and already had
some equipment grounded to it. Its a 10mm brass colored bolt which is easy to
reach and is an excellent candidate. I taped up all connections for added
protection against shorts, as well as to keep the wire from pulling out of the
connectors. I also recommend putting a small piece of electrical tape over the
unused end of the gray wire for protection against a short. The unused end will
be the end running up into the dash.
10mm BRASS COLORED GROUND SCREW

GRAY WIRE
TAPE OFF UNUSED END OF
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Ground%20Screw%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Tape%20Off%20Cut%20End%20small.jpg>
That's all there is to it. Total time to complete this mod should be less than 30 minutes. As you can
see from the following pictures, the locker will activate in 2Hi, 4Hi, and 4Lo. My 99 TRD is equipped
with ABS, so anytime the locker is activated, the ABS is disabled. This is denoted by the ABS light
being illuminated. This is how it worked from the factory, only before this mod ABS was only
disabled in 4Lo when the locker was activated. Now I can have the locker activated while in 4Hi and
at the same time the ABS will be disabled. You can't beat that.
LOCKED IN 2WD ABS DISABLED
FOR CLARITY
CLOSE UP OF LAMPS
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locked%202WD%20view%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/DiffLock%20&%20ABS%20Lamps%20small.jpg>
LOCKED IN 4WD HI ABS DISABLED
CLARITY

CLOSE UP OF LAMP FOR
<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/Locked%204WD%20View%20small.jpg>

<IMG border=1 width=250 SRC=files/4x4%20Lamp%20small.jpg>
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So your differential has oil in it. Oil expands when it gets warm. Without a breather, the pressure
would rise in your differential and might shorten the life of various oil seals. The stock breather is
right on the differential. In the event that you should splash through a puddle that is deep enough to
immerse the breather, there is a chance that your differential might suck some of that water in.
Water and oil don't mix very well and the resulting milkshake certainly doesn't lubricate very well. In
the end, you have three options: (1) Stay out of the water; (2) Flush your differential every time it
might have gotten wet; (3) Extend the breather. Well, here's the procedure for option three.
The front differential already has an extended breather on it, coming up into the engine
compartment. Some folks add a couple of feet onto it, but it's high enough to handle most moderate
off road travel.
<IMG border=1 align=right vspace=8 hspace=8 src=files/diff_breather/1.jpg>
8 feet of 1/4 rubber fuel line
2 small hose clamps
A few nylon zip ties
1 Union (Toyota part number 90404-51026), should be less than $5
Some dealers may claim that they can't find that part number in their systems. Try requesting the
part number without the dash (9040451026 or 90404 51026).
Tools Needed:
Box/Open wrenches, 10mm and 14mm
Screwdrivers
Wire Cutters
1 cup boiling water
Procedure:
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Here's a photo showing the location of the stock breather on the differential housing.
<IMG width=250 border=1 src=files/diff_breather/2.jpg><IMG width=250 border=1

src=files/diff_breather/1a.jpg>
Close-up of stock breather
Use a 14mm wrench to remove the stock breather. Use a rag to clean around the breather before
you remove it completely.
<IMG width=250 border=1 src=files/diff_breather/4.jpg> Use a 10mm wrench to thread the Union
(90404-51026) into the differential housing. It will tighten down until about one thread is exposed.
Dip one end of your rubber hose in a cup of boiling water for 30 seconds, then insert the stock
breather threads into the hose. You want to get all of the threads into the tubing. This will allow your
diff to continue to breath as it would in a stock configuration and will cut down on the chances of
dust or moisture getting sucked in. Secure the breather with one of the hose clamps. Some folks use
a VW type fuel filter on the ends of their breathers.<IMG border=1 src=files/diff_breather/5.jpg>

There are a variety of places you can vent to. Some choose to run a hose all the way up to the
engine compartment. We followed the electric locker cable/brake lines up by the fuel filler neck. This
view is from the perspective of the left, rear tire, looking up into the bed rail. The stock breather end
of the hose was secured with wire-ties so that it was above the fuel neck. The hose was routed along
the fuel filler neck, over the frame and along the locker cable.
Once the hose was routed down near the differential, we left a bend in the hose so that it would not
be pulled tight when the suspension flexes. Once we had the hose secured, we cut off the excess
and fitted the hose over the Union. Secure the hose with the remaining hose clamp.
That's it. With the hose following up the filler neck, you have a good indicator for a safe, dry
breather openeing.

View the installation instructions for the Revtek 3 lift in PDF format

By: Jeff
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Before you get started, make sure you have everything you need:
<img align=right border=1 vspace=5 hspace=5 src=files/omelift/parts.jpg>
Suspension Components:
OME coil springs
(either the 880s, 881s, or 882s)
OME front shocks
(either the N91s or N91sc) or some other long-travel shock
OME leaf springs (Part #s 15a and 15b)
OME rear shocks (Part # N85)
Recommended Accessory Parts:

(2) Toyota strut top plates
(Part # 48609-35010)
OME greasable shackles (Part # GS12)
OME shackle bushings (Part # SB88)
OME exhaust bracket (Part # FK21)
Daystar greasable front leaf bushings (Part # KT02017)
Front differential drop kit (www.cornfedsuspension.com) or (additional tech article)
Metal plate to relocate brake proportioning valve (can be purchased at Lowes or Home Depot)
Tools:
Floor jack and jack stands
Full socket set, including deep well sockets up to 20mm
Torque wrench
Coil sompressors (if you plan to compress the coils yourself)
Drill
Compressing The Coils
Before you get started, you should decide whether you will be compressing the coils and shocks
together to make the strut yourself or if you will let a shop do it for you. I highly recommend taking
them to a shop as it is one of the more difficult (and potentially dangerous) parts of this installation.
If you take your coils and shocks to a shop, make sure that you purchase a set of 2 Toyota strut top
plates (see part #s above). They will need these to complete the strut assembly.
If you plan on compressing the coils yourself, take a look at this diagram to get an idea of the
assembly of the strut and top plate. As always, be VERY careful when compressing your coils. Make
sure that the coil compressors are in good shape and that they've got a good hold on the coils.
The OME instructions also recommend that you install the factory retainer washer (it goes directly
under the top plate). I didn't install this retainer and haven't had any problems. Others have done
the same and they have not had any problems as well.
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If you are assembling the strut yourself, try to make certain that the bottom shock eyelet is parallel
with two of the strut top plate studs. This will make your life a LOT easier when it comes time to
install the strut.
The Front
Once you have your assembled strut, you'll want to jack up the front of the truck and put jack stands
under it. For optimum access to the strut assembly, remove both front wheels.
On the strut top plate, you'll see three bolts with nuts on them and the top of the shock sticking up
through the center. Do NOT remove the center shock nut at this time. Instead, unbolt the three
nuts on the strut top plate. Unbolt the bottom shock mount and remove the shock.
To install the new longer strut, you'll need to press down on the upper control arm. It is common to
use a bottle jack to jack the upper control arms down. Be very careful in your bottle jack placement
on the control arms: it may be difficult to find a stable place to jack. Bolt in the lower shock mount
and the three upper strut plate nuts and torque to proper specifications.
Put the front tires back on and remove from jack and/or jack stands. The front is done!
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/compressingcoil.jpg>
Compressing the coil
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/assembledstruts.jpg>
Assembled struts
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/bottomshock.jpg>
Bottom shock mount (factory shock shown)
The Rear
Jack up the rear of the truck and place the frame side rails on jack stands. Remove both rear
wheels. Support the rear differential with the floor jack, placed directly under the center of the
differential.
Note: It's easier to work one side at a time, completely finishing one side before continuing to the
next. OME leaf spring part #15A is for the driver's side and #15B is for the passenger side.
Unbolt the shocks and remove. Remove the u-bolts and bump stop. Un-bolt the rear shackle frame
bolts. You'll probably need to use a mallet to tap the shackle bolts out. If you are using the optional
OME bushings, it isn't necessary to remove the shackles from the leaf springs. Loosen the front leaf
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spring hanger bolt and remove. Remove the leaf spring from the truck.
Install the new bushings (or reuse the stock bushings) for the front and rear leaf spring mounts.
Grease and install the OME greasable leaf spring shackle bolts (or the stock shackle bolts). Install
the leaf spring and torque the front hanger bolt to proper specifications. Line up the leaf spring with
the shackles and tighten the nuts onto the shackle bolts. Torque to proper specifications.
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/fronthanger.jpg>
Front hanger
<img height=151 border=1 src=files/omelift/rearbushings.jpg>
Rear bushings
<img height=151 border=1 src=files/omelift/completedshackle.jpg>
Assembled shackle
Before you can install the bump stop, you'll need to drill out the bottom center hole to allow it to fit
on the OME leaf springs. Place the bump stop and u-bolts onto the leaf spring. (The stock u-bolts
work fine) Due to the nature of the OME leaf springs, the axle will most likely need to slide forward
about 1/2. Make sure the leaf spring center pin lines up and drops into the axle's centering pin hole.
Also be careful not to jerk the truck off the jack stands when shifting the axle. Install and torque the
u-bolt nuts to proper specifications. Install the new OME rear shock.
Repeat for both leaf springs.
The Exhaust Bracket

If your tail pipe still comes out at the factory location, it's a good idea to relocate it slightly lower to
give proper clearance for the leaf spring. You can purchase the FK21 exhaust bracket which does
this with ease. To install it, first remove the two bolts holding the factory bracket to the frame.
Using the included hardware, bolt the exhaust hanger bushing to the new bracket using two of the
holes in the bushing. Using the factory bracket bolts, bolt the new bracket to the frame in the
factory location. All done!
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/exhaustbracket.jpg>
Relocating The Brake Proportioning Valve

In order to keep your rear brakes functioning properly after the lift, it is important to raise the brake
proportioning valve relative to amount of your lift. Usually, this is around 2.5 to 3. The easiest way
to do this is to go to Home Depot or Lowes and purchase a metal plate with pre-cut holes. They're
normally found in hardware near the window and door hardware. Cut the metal plate down to
around 4 inches. You may have to slightly ream out a hole or two in order for the bolt holes to line
up properly. Bolt the bottom of the plate to the factory BPV location using the stock bolts and then
attach the BPV to the metal plate using some spare bolts and nuts. In an attempt to prevent rust on
the fabricated bracket, I painted mine flat black after this photo was taken.
<img border=1 src=files/omelift/bpv.jpg>
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The Front Differential Drop

When lifting the front of your 4x4, the angle of the front drive shafts increases and may cause
premature wear on your CV joints. One simple remedy is to lower the front differential. You can
either purchase a front diff drop kit from Cornfed Suspension or you can gather the necessary parts
and engineer it yourself. Read the full tech article on the front diff drop >>
Final Notes
Some people have found that they need to extend their rear brake lines when installing this lift. In
my case, my brake line was long enough, even with the suspension flexed. After the installation,
you will probably want to find a place to flex your new suspension and check the length of brake
line. If it is pulled tight, you will want to purchase an extension for your rear brake line.
Also, don't forget to grease your new bushings when the installation is complete, and keep them well
lubricated. A simple grease gun and some lithium-based grease will work fine.
Finally, as with any suspension modification, you'll want to take your truck to a good shop and get it
aligned. I found that my camber, caster, and toe were all incorrect after my lift.
Pinch Weld Mod

By: Randy Hobart
For those of you who like to run larger and/or wider tires under minimal lift, here's an easy little
way to gain some tire clearance. The pinch weld mod is probably one of the more common fixes for
minor tire rub. When I refer to "pinch weld," it isn't exactly a "pinch weld" per say, but in fact a
protruding body seam that is "pinched" together and spot-welded.
When you mount your new tires and crank the wheel, the initial rubbing you feel and hear is
actually the plastic inner-fender that covers the pinch weld. So, that is the first thing that needs to
go.
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Starting with the front driver's side, looking at the wheel, take a look at the inner-fender plastic
behind the wheel, near the floorboard of the truck. You'll notice that the plastic has a slight hump
protruding out, which is obviously a source of rubbing. The first thing to do is cut out the plastic
around the hump.
With the plastic cut away, you will see the spot-welded body seam, which was the reason for the
hump. This is what is being referred to as the pinch weld.
Here's the fun part - you get to whip out your hammer for this one. Simply tap (or pound) the
body seam flat, so that it doesn't protrude anymore. For some fellas, they just whack the daylights
out of it until it is flat. But for others, like me, who prefer something less unsightly, you can be a little
more gentle with it and simply tap it over flat. I even went to the extent of wrapping my hammer
head with an old cloth to keep from scratching the paint.
Repeat this process for the other side. That's it. Pretty simple, huh? This completely cured my
rubbing issues. But each setup is going to be different - you might have tire rub elsewhere.
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By: Jimmy O'Connor
<img align=right vspace=8 hspace=8 border=1 src=files/mudflap.jpg>Ever get tired of seeing the
big, white 4WD lettering on the back of your mud flaps? Well, I did and I finally figured out a way to
remove it.
First, (for your paint's safety) remove the flaps from the truck. Next, apply laquer thinner to the
lettering. Next, rub away that white lettering using a rag.
You may find that the flaps are still embossed where the lettering was, but the big, white letters are
now gone.
Wash the thinner off of them, and then bolt the flaps back on. Sometimes it's the smallest things
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that bring us the most satisfaction.


By: flowedtacoma
Read all of these install instructions prior to installing Toytec's suspension lift. I cannot be held
responsible for any damages or personal harm resulting from installing this kit... Hopefully this small
article will help you as well as others feel more confident about tackling this lift install... This is only
intended as a guide for others, so please treat it as such. I'll be adding more "How-To” article
later on in the near future as I make modifications to my truck. My intensions are to create articles
that guide one through the entire project turning every nut and bolt, etc... Enjoy this article!
Read Toytec Lift instructions in PDF format >>
2wd Suspension Tech

Don't Let Your Compressor Drain Your Battery
By: Randy Hobart
<IMG hspace=8 src=files/tip003.gif align=right vspace=7 border=1> For those of you with air
suspension systems, I'm sure you have a compressor setup that includes a pressure switch. The
pressure switch automatically turns the compressor on or off when pressure in the air tank reaches
specific levels. This is a nice system that basically takes care of itself. However, there are some of us
who prefer to have a little more control over the situation. It's not uncommon that air will slowly leak
from the air lines somewhere in the system, which will activate the compressor. This normally isn't a
problem, but it is possible that it could easily run down your battery if it happens too often, say,
overnight. For starters, you could mount a manual toggle switch somewhere inline.
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unnecessarily.
The lighted switch needs to be mounted in the line between the pressure switch and the
compressor.

Download DJM's official installation instructions for the 3/3 and 3/4 drop kits in PDF format.

By: Randy Hobart

Chances are, you won't be able to get your truck lowered at an alignment shop... which makes it
inevitable that you will have to drive your freshly lowered truck some distance to get it aligned. The
trouble is, your alignment will be off after adjusting the height of the suspension and if you have to
drive more than a few miles to the shop, you'll probably end up thrashing your tires on the way
there. Here's a quick and simple way to align your front end so that the wear on your tires won't be
near as bad.
Turn your wheels straight ahead, with the steering wheel straight. Using a measuring tape, take
measurements from the front of the tires and compare the measurement with the rear of the tires.
Adjust your steering rods until the two measurements are as close as possible.
Although this method will help save your tires, this isn't the most accurate way to align your wheels,
so be sure to get them aligned by a professional in the near future.

By: Randy Hobart
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When installing new upper control arms (either with the DJM kit or a 4wd kit), you must remove the
mounting shafts from the control arms. This can be a long and quite painful experience. But it
doesn't have to be.
Try this: Stick a junk bolt thru the mounting shaft and prop the control arm in a vice,
using the bolt as a lever. Use a screwdriver and mallet to tap around the edge
of the bushing, working around the edge.
Your factory bushings may still get mangled, but your hands most likely won't.

By: Randy Hobart

For those of you with air suspension systems, I'm sure you have a compressor setup that includes a
pressure switch. The pressure switch automatically turns the compressor on or off when pressure in
the air tank reaches specific levels. This is a nice system that basically takes care of itself. However,
there are some of us who prefer to have a little more control over the situation. It's not uncommon
that air will slowly leak from the air lines somewhere in the system, which will activate the
compressor. This normally isn't a problem, but it is possible that it could easily run down your
battery if it happens too often, say, overnight.
For starters, you could mount a manual toggle switch somewhere inline.
unnecessarily.
The lighted switch needs to be mounted in the line between the pressure switch and the compressor.
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By: Randy Hobart

For those of you with air suspensions, there's always a paranoia of having broken or cut airlines or
punctured airbags. Here's two simple tips that may ease a little bit of that paranoia by providing
some basic emergency repair procedures.
Always keep a knife and one or two spare coupler air fittings (butt connectors) in your glove box.
For airlines that may become broken, punctured, or maybe snipped by vandals, all you need to do is
locate the damage, cut the line square and clean, then mount the coupler fitting in-line where the
damage used to be. Easy enough, huh?! When you get home, you can always replace the original
length of airline.
If you're one of those fella's who have a frame-layin' ride, I'm sure that a punctured airbag means
that you're sitting on the ground, helpless on the side of the road. This truly sucks, but I guess it's
the kind of risk we take when we decide to go low. If you're like me, you don't always have the extra
cash flow to keep a spare airspring or two handy. Here's a little riggin' you can do so that you can at
least make it to the nearest phone booth to call the tow truck.
Cut a piece of 4x4 wood post down to 5 or 6 inches and stash it somewhere in your ride. Maybe even
strap it to the frame or something, out of sight, kinda like the spare tire. When a bag blows, it's
pretty much ruined, so there's really no chance of salvaging it. You'll just cut the rubber sleeve off
and wedge the wood block into the space where the bag used to be. This will give you the ground
clearance to move the vehicle off the road.
Now for the airline, you'll want to bypass the damaged airbag because all your air will simply be
blowing out where the bag used to be. If you have independent
valves, you won't have to worry about this... but if you have 2 bags coming from one valve, find the
T-connector and disconnect the airlines that come from the air tank and to the good airspring and
use your spare coupler fitting to connect the two. This will allow control over the other airbag in line
with the damaged one.
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I know it sounds like a total rig-job, but it's less humiliating than explaining to the towing guy that
you blew a bag... 'Cause you know Farmer Joe is gonna laugh in your face for lowering and baggin'
your ride in the first place.

Author: pucancakes
Step 1: Jack truck up and remove wheel. Use jackstands to support truck and make sure that they
are secure.
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring2.jpg>Step 2: Unbolt nut on top of the shock. Remove
washer and bushing.
Step 3: Unbolt bottom 2 bolts underneath shock.<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring3.jpg>
Step 4: Next, remove the shock.
Step 5: To begin removing the factory spring, unbolt the 4 bolts on top of upper control arm.<img
border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/spring5.jpg>
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring6a.jpg>Step 6: Compress spring with spring
compressor and have someone pull up on upper control arm and pull down on lower control arm to
pull spring out.
Step 7: Compress new coil spring with spring compressor before installing. Don't forget to install
the rubber cushion on the new coil spring.<img border=1 width=200 src=files/spring7.jpg>
Reinstall spring and shock using above steps in reverse.

By: Jeff Pollard
<img align=right src=files/shorty_stop.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>I have the DJM 3/4 drop on my 99'
X-cab and frequently find my suspension bottoming out on the factory bump stops that I cut down to
a smaller size. The problem is that even though I cut my factory stops down, they'll never be
shorter than about an inch high because of the metal mounting plate.
The solution? Energy Suspension shorty bump stops. I ordered a set of Energy Suspension 3/8
button head bump stops from Summit Racing for a little less than $10. The part number was ENS-99132G.
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The new bump stops were a breeze to install: Remove factory stops using 14mm deep well socket
(bolt is on bottom of lower control arm), and then install the new stops with a 14mm deep well
socket.
Several people on the site have suggested that I run without bump stops, but I fear that would cause
unnecessary wear on my suspension, so this is a great alternative solution. I gained almost an inch
of travel and the ride is noticably smoother, especially going over bridges.

By: Randy Hobart

For those of you who want to go low, but refuse to cut a notch in the frame, I'm sure you suffer from
a lot of loud bottoming-out in the rear. For one thing, if you still have the factory bump stops, you
probably don't have very much suspension travel, which makes your ride a little too bumpy. On the
other hand, if you've removed your bump stops, the horrible noise you hear ever time your axle hits
your frame is nothing less of bone-chilling.
If you're not going to cut a notch, it's inevitable that you're going to bottom out. Here's a quick and
simple solution to help dampen the noise: Using an old mud flap or worn tire, cut out a couple of
strips about 2 inches wide and about 5 inches long. Using your old bumpstops as a template, drill a
couple of holes for the bolts. Mount it directly to the frame. Wah-Lah! You've got rubber between
your axle and frame that gives you maximum suspension travel.

Performance Tech
3.4L Deckplate Mod

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The theory behind this modification is to make is easier for your engine to take in air. Back in the
good old days, racers would remove the air filter and it's cover when at the track. This made the
intake system less restrictive and when the engine breathes easier, which turns out more power.
However, it is very unwise to offroad without an airfilter. Since the stock Tacoma intake system is
fairly restrictive, this mod gets you the best of both worlds - relatively unrestricted intake with full
filtration. Plus, it enhances the sound.
One word of caution: this mod is not recommended for supercharged Tacomas unless you have
performed some serious fuel system upgrades. The engine breathes quite well with the stock intake
system and opening the airbox contributes to "pinging" with the supercharger.
A deckplate is a simple device originally used for creating an access hole through the bottom of an
aluminum boat. It is basically a circular frame with a removable center.A deckplate can be
purchased at nearly any local boat parts supplier.
This mod can also be done with the 4 cylinder air box, it just takes a bit of work to fit a deckplate
larger than 3" onto the flat side of the box. The procedure is the same.
Stock Airbox
3" or 4" or 5" Deckplate
3/4" Stainless, Pan-head screws
1 Tube "Sensor Safe" Silicon Sealant
Tools Needed:
Metric Socket Set
Screwdrivers
Drill and Bits
Dremmel or similar tool suitable for cutting 1/4" plastic
Towels
Sharpie Marking Pen

Procedure:
First, you'll need to remove the factory air box. There are 3 12mm bolts holding the air box in place.
Additionally, you'll need to remove any vacuum hoses that are attached to the air box.
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The factory air box still installed...
... and a view of the area after the airbox is removed.
Once you have the airbox out, place the deckplate against the front side of the box and trace around
the hole with a Sharpie marking pen. I used a 4", black deckplate, purchased from a boat parts
counter. I offset the deckplate slightly to the passenger side to better clear the washer fluid neck for
ease of removal/install.
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Once you have the deckplate traced on the box, you need to remove enough material to pop the
deckplate in. I drilled a starter hole, then used the Dremmel to cut the opening.
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You may need to trim a bit of material away to enlarge the hole before fitting the deckplate. You
want the hole to be a snug fit, but a bit of irregularity in your cutting will be covered by the flange on
the deckplate itself.
Once the hole is suitable, mark the screw holes with the sharpy and remove the deckplate. Drill pilot
holes for the stainless-steel screws. Before you reinsert the deckplate, place a continuous bead of
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\"sensor-safe\", black, silicon around the inside of the flange, align the screw holes and fit the
deckplate to the airbox. If the silicon is not \"sensor-safe,\" you will need to leave your airbox out of
the truck for at least 24 hours or you will get a \"Check Engine\" light from the fumes coming off the
sealant messing with the MAF sensor.
Insert the screws and tighten them down.
Here's what the air box looks like with the deckplate installed:
Plate out
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Plate in
All that is left is reinstalling the airbox into the truck. Go slow and take your time so that you don't
miss anything.
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Tip: For even better air flow, many owners have found that replacing the factory filter with an
aftermarket one such as a K&N or Amsoil filter will also help with performance.
Operation is simple: Plate out for street and dry off-road; plate in for puddles, small lakes and wet
off-road. The first time you drive it with the plate out, you will hear the difference - the engine
sounds stronger. There seems to be a slight horsepower increase, but there are't any dyno results
confirming this. Some folks have also reported an increase in mileage of a few MPG, others have
reported a loss of a few MPG. The beauty of this mod is that if you are not content with having a hole
in your airbox, you can simply leave the deckplate installed, which functions as a stock unit.

By: Jeff Beck
I currently have the TRD 2.7 S/C installed on my 2000 Tacoma..the mod I will be explaining is the
FREE FMU mod for 2.4L/2.7L Tacoma s/c's. This mod gives the supercharger more feel and also
increases the fuel pressure slightly to eliminate any lean condition and feed the engine more fuel.
The mod is VERY simple and takes but a few steps. Heres what you'll need:
- a 12mm socket (to remove boost port plug)
- a 3/16/ 1/8 brass nipple fitting (replaces boost plug)
- Teflon tape (to seal the new plug well, optional)
- 1 vacuum plug (to plug hole left on intake)
- 2 minutes!
<img align=right border=1 src=files/free_fmu/freefmu1.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>
First, remove the boost port plug (pictured at right)... with your 12mm socket/wrench. Next, take
your new brass fitting.. and (if wanted) add teflon tape around the threads, to keep it sealed and so
it resists corrosion.
After that is done, screw it into where the boost port was once located. Then, take the hose that
was once on the intake that runs from the FPR (fuel pressure regulator) and put it onto the nipple of
your new fitting (make sure it's on well, and will not slip off). Finally, take your vacuum plug and plug
the hole left on the intake (I covered it with electrical tape first, then capped it... for extra measure)
make sure it's all secure..and take it for a spin.
It should take a few miles to start to feel the difference (low end is better and mid range boost is
more apparent). All in all, for about $3-4 bucks, it's well worth it and comes in handy when moving
to a higher psi pulley, or even if you experienced some slight knocking/ping...
<img align=left border=1 src=files/free_fmu/freefmu2.jpg vspace=8 hspace=8>
This mod can be used in conjunction with a boost gauge, all that is needed is a 1/8 t-fitting (or
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whatever size you have) and the cutting of your FPR hose to accommodate it... Thanks for looking
and if you have any questions, e-mail me at JBTRD00@yahoo.com
By: Tacoma sXe
I installed a tachometer on my 2003 2.4L 2RZ standard cab, so some of

the things may only apply to that year or body style. I
installed a SunPro Actron Mini Tach (CP7906). It was $40 at
Discount Auto, and uses air core movement which is very
reliable and quick.
The tach should come with 4 wires:

Red: connect to a switched 12v power source
Black: grounded to the chassis
White: connect to an interior light source that turns on when
the lights are turned on
Green: connect to the ECU
First, I decided where to mount my tach. It

would have got in the way of the speedo if I put it directly on
top of the steering column, so I offest it to the left side, only
partially blocking the engine temp gauge (less important to me).
Then I ran the 4 wires through the gap between the steering
column and console panel
Next, I decided where to

ground. I chose one the bolts holding the gas pedal on. I used a
ring terminal for reliability issues
Then I ran the remaining 3

wires behind the dash to the passenger leg area. I
connected both the red and white wires to my amp's accesory turn
on lead. This way when my cd player turns on, so does the tach.
It also means that whenever my cd player is on, so is the light
for the tach. I did this out of laziness. I did not feel taking
the panels off to access a light wire. Nor did I feel like taking
my cd player out to access the switched power lead. Ideally, you would
want to connect these wires to a more suitable source.
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Now to get the green wire to the ECU, the hardest part. I took my
glove box off first. 2 Screws under the glove box to unhinged it, then
just pull it out. I had to take off the kick-panel over the ECU to access the wiring
harnesses. The one you need is the 26 pin plug all the way to the
left. Use a piggy back clasp to splice the green wire to the black/yellow wire.
Then I plugged the harness back in and tested it.
Last, I
mounted the tach. I used a small self tapping screw. By just
pushing it real hard into the top left of the steering column, I
was able to get it threaded. Then I backed it out, mounted the
cup, then added the tach.
There it is all mounted. I

took it out after, and just as told, 2nd gear at 5300 rpm was
right around 55mph. Perfect. This took me all of 2 hours, at the
most.

By: Error
Tools Needed:
12mm socket on an extension
6mm Allen Wrench
Large Phillips Screwdriver
or
10mm socket
I prefer a deep socket for extra reach. The screwdriver
can either be a large Phillips or a 10mm socket as I prefer. This will be used
for removing your intake piping and disconnecting the battery - which resets the
ECM, allowing your Taco to adjust to the newfound air.
<IMG border=1 src=files/130-TBS-01.JPG>
First, remove the intake piping. You will also have

to unbolt your resonator box from the head before removing. Mine is cut off,
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but the bolts are right under that orange wire loom above the exhaust manifold.
I believe they are 12mm. I'd check, but I don't use em.
Next, remove the top 2 nuts from the throttle body

assembly. The bottom 2 are bolts, and rather tricky to see. Here are
pictures of their locations:

Thankfully, Jerry provides new gaskets. At 98,000+
miles, mine was about to go. Glad I did this when I did!
After you pull the throttle body off, you have to

remove the studs from the top. I found that good ole Vice Grips worked
great. If one refuses to move, lock the grip down on it hard, and
gently rock it back and forth until it starts to spin, then twist it
out. This step took me all of 1 minute.
I wonder why they didn't just use bolts? Anyways, you

can probably pitch these now. I'm a pack rat, so they'll end up in my
stuff box.
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Time for the yucky part. Get some of this stuff. Trust me.
After 98+ thousand miles, the inside of my TB looked

like a fat man exploded in it. Anyway, find a
few of your worst rags, soak em in Simple Green, and start wiping all
the black goo off. The inside of the runner was pretty nasty as well.
This step took me about 20 minutes due to the amount of crud that was
in there.

Now clean off the gasket surfaces. I VERY
CAREFULLY used a razor blade to scrape off what was left. You
don't want to scratch the gasket surface. Again, trust me on this. I
then rubbed the area heavily with the Simple Green soaked rag to clean it
thoroughly.
Now, hopefully by now you've sent your money and gotten

your spacer. It comes with new gaskets and 4 bolts.
This picture is actually wrong. The longer bolts go at the bottom
during installation, and the shorter bolts go up top. Minor detail, you
get the point.

Another handy thing to have is the right allen wrench.
I didn't, because I'm poor. So I took a 7/32nd allen and wrapped the
ends in a thin layer of tape until it fit in the new bolt.
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Line everything up, and carefully bolt it all back

together. Remember to put gaskets on both sides of the spacer, and
line everything up right. Make sure you get those bolts on there
tight - you don't want air leaking in. Also, make sure you replace any
hoses you removed earlier to the right places. I left most of mine
attached and just wiggled the throttle body around. Easier, I think. When
tightened, it will have no gaps. This picture was taken before I got
it all the way on. The gaskets should be barely visible though.

The next step is reinstalling your intake, but heck,
while you've got it off, toss in a set of these TRD Platnium/Iridium
(depending on your motor). It's really easy with the intake piping removed. After this,
bolt your intake back on. It'll be an awkward fit due to the 1 shift,
but it all still fits. You end up crushing the rubber elbow a bit. I
plan to fix that in the next few days to smooth that back out. Replug
the battery, fire it up, and enjoy better mileage.

By: Jeff Pollard
One of the first (and most commonly performed) performance modifications to custom vehicles is
the replacement of the stock intake. It's a simple operation that is easy to perform and supposedly
adds somewhere around 10% more horsepower.<img border=0 src=files/intake_install/original.jpg
align=left hspace=7 vspace=7>
I recently purchased an aftermarket intake system from SporTruck Specialities. The problem is:
there weren't any directions included with the kit. Now this wasn't a difficult installation, but I've
made a short tutorial for those of you that are thinking about purchasing an aftermarket intake for
your truck. SporTruck Specialties' kit was very affordable and includes a GENUINE K&N filter to stick
on the end. As of writing this, I've been driving my 2.4L Taco for two days with the new system and I
can definitely tell the difference. Accelleration is smoother and throttle response is improved. I'd
recommend an aftermarket intake for just about anybody..even if you're not looking to break the
sound barrier any time this century!
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/remove_harness.jpg>
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First, unplug the MAF sensor wiring harness from the stock intake. Unhook the rest of the harness
where it is attached in 2 or 3 places.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/MAF_unhook.jpg>

Next, unbolt the MAF piece from the air box. It should be attached to the air box with 4 10mm nuts.
Next, unbolt the air box from the truck (4 12mm bolts)
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/no_airbox.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/MAF_adapter.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/attach_filter.jpg>
Loosen the hose clamp and remove the MAF piece from the rest of the intake and set aside. This will
be used with the new system. Connect the MAF to the adapter plate supplied in the kit using 4 bolts
and nuts. I've heard of some people using Loc-Tite on these bolts to make sure they never back-off,
but I opted not to for the time being.
Attach filter on the end of the adapter plate using a hose clamp.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/unbolt_tube.jpg>

Unbolt the factory intake tube from the engine mount. There are 2 bolts on the bottom-side of it,
right above the exhaust manifold.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/unhook_hoses.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/remove_tube.jpg>
Unhook the vacuum hoses from the factory intake tube. There is a small one in the front and a
larger one on the backside of the tube.
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Unscrew the two hose clamps that seal the connection between the intake and the throttle body.
Remove the factory intake.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/throttle_fitting.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/install_tube.jpg>
Next, put one of the silicon fittings on the throttle body along with 2 hose clamps. Slide the new
intake tube into the silicon fitting. Bolt the intake tube to the engine using existing holes on the top
of the valve cover. Attach both vacuum hoses to the new intake tube. Tighten the 2 hose clamps
on intake-throttle body connection.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/attach_MAF.jpg>

Slide the other silicon fitting on to the MAF assembly along with 2 hose clamps. This was the
hardest part of the installation for me. I had a hard time stretching the silicon fitting to fit on my
MAF piece.
Slide the MAF assembly on to the intake tube and tighten down the hose clamps.
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/connect_harness.jpg>

Finally, re-connect the MAF sensor wiring harness to the MAF sensor. Make sure all of your hose
clamps are tight and make sure that the tube is securely attached to the valve cover.
NOTE: My SporTruck Specialties kit came with a pre-drilled hole (and a groment) for a MAF sensor
on the back of the tube. For newer Tacoma owners, you will need to plug that hole with a bolt, since
your MAF sensor is on the seperate MAF peice. This is what the guy at SporTruck told me to do.
Seems kinda ghetto, but if that's what they recommend....
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/bolt_hole.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/intake_install/final.jpg>
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That's it! Now, fire it up and take it for a spin. I immediately noticed a difference in throttle
response and acceleration. The truck also seems to shift smoother now, but maybe that's just me. I
also noticed that my engine now sounds like it is sucking in air when it's running.

Here are instructions for installing the dynamic tensioner for supercharged 3.4L V6 (5VZ-FE) engines.
View PDF file >>

Here is the official installation instructions for LC Engineering's Short Shifter kit. These directions
were originally sent with a 2RZ shifter kit and should be similar for all other models, but may differ
slightly. Read this document in PDf format >>

Here is the official installation manual for the TRD 2.4/2.7 (2RZ/3RZ) supercharger. Read this
document in PDF format >>

Here are the instructions for TRD's 7th injector conversion kit.
View PDF file >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 7th injector kit for the 3.4L 5VZ-FE engine
supercharger. View this docment in PDF format >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 3.4L 5VZ-FE engine supercharger.
Update: Toyota has posted a supplement to the TRD 3.4L Supercharger installation manual.
View supplement in PDF format >>

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the 4.0L V6 1GR supercharger.
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By: Blangkang
When I got my 2005 X-runner I found myself bouncing off the redline because I don't look at the tach
when I drive. So, I fixed this by adding an Auto Meter shift light. I got my shift light from a friend, but
you can find them at many online retailers (like Summit Racing).
Tools needed:
- 10mm socket w/wrench
- wire strippers/crimpers
- around 5 feet of 18g wire
- handful of wire connectors and/or soldering gun & solder
- wire taps
First things first: decide where you want to mount your shift light. Make sure it's not in a location
that will obstruct your view of your gauges.
Next, on the ECU, you need to locate the Black wire with a white stripe on connector (A) pin #7.
Mine was 2nd from the bottom on my X-Runner. (The wire location might vary from different models)
You will need to tap the Black wire w/white stripe with a wire tap.
Now that you tapped the wire I would suggest testing it to make sure, you can just hook the RED
wire to the battery and the BLACK wire to the ground. The GREEN wire goes to the Black w/white
stripe wire that you just tapped. Then start the truck with the lowest pill (RPM module) in the shift
light and give it a rev. If the light sucessfully comes on, your're ready to move on. If you don't see a
light, make sure all of your connections are correct.
With the light tested properly, run the new wire that's tapped to the Black w/white stripe to the
GREEN wire on your shift light.
Next, connect the ground wire from the shift light. I decided to connect it to a bolt near the fuse box
inside the cab. (Note: My BLACK wire coming from the Shift Light wasn't long enough so I
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lengthened it with some RED wire)

Finally, the RED wire coming from the shift light needs to be connected to a 12V + source. I
installed an inline fuse onto the RED wire just to be safe, but you can still hook up the light without a
fuse. I found a 12v source under the dash, but you can run the RED wire directly to the battery if
you prefer. If that is done, it is recommended that you add a fuse.
Once that's all hooked up, simply put everything back together and give it a test.

Here is the official TRD installation manual for the exhaust kit for 4x4 and Prerunner Extended Cabs
and Double Cabs. Read this document in PDF format >>

Here are the official TRD instructions for installing the TRD Limited Slip Differential, a popular
modification for S-Runner owners.
View the instructions in PDF format >>
Interior/Audio Tech

Things that are needed:
Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge Additional O2 Sensor (Cannot Use Factory Sensor)
Butt Connectors & 16-18 Gauge Wire (red and black will do)
A Lift If Available(makes install much easier)
I bought a Autometer C2 Air/Fuel Ratio Gauge (Part #7175) and also a ignition bezel w/o a clock. Cut
a 2 1/16 hole in that then mounted the air/fuel gauge in there.
(http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-012F.JPG)
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Instead of just purchasing a O2 sensor from a local parts store, i opted for the autometer O2 sensor
kit which is designed to work with all autometer air/fuel gauges (Part
#2244)(http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/atm-2244.jpg)The 2244 kit comes
with 3 wires that consist of a purple wire used to monitor the air/fuel ratio, and a heater positive and
negative wire that helps warm up the 02 sensor so it will give readings faster. Next comes the hard
part. You need to go to a local muffler place (midas, meineke) and have them weld in the O2 sensor.
The O2 sensor must be welded in after where the header is bolted to the exhaust pipe and before
the first catalytic converter. IT MUST NOT be in line with the air/fuel sensor at all! Adding in the
additional O2 sensor will change the flow of exhaust through the pipe. When that flow is altered the
air/fuel sensor may not read properly causing your engine to run poorly and check engine lights may
occur. (picture of the setup coming soon)
Next is running the wires and loom into the cab of the truck. Remove your passenger side door sill
and lift the carpet up just a bit. There should be a grommet on the floor.(if not drill a hole and install
a grommet) I ran the loom/wires from the exhaust pipe through there and then under the dash. Key
note* Wiretie the loom somewhere that is away from the exhaust pipe but not in line with your front
right tire. Bad weather such as snow and ice could get on the loom eventually causing it to break
open and expose wires. Remove the panel below the driver side steering column so its easier to get
to wires.Run the wires under the carpet and close to the firewall(so the passenger shouldnt feel the
loom under the carpet when their feet are on it) You will need to tap a few wires under your dash.
Positive, Accessory, Illumination & Ground. Use a test light to figure out which wires do what. This
part will most likely be different on other trucks because i have a boost gauge as well. My 2 gauges
share the same illumination wire. I tapped the wire coming off of the factory rheostat (dimmer
switch) so when i turn on my headlights, the gauges light as well. If you want to install a dimmer for
just the gauges, you will need a potentiometer/rheostat.
Wiring should be as follows. Toyota rheostat illumiation wire to one post on the aftermarket
potentiometer/rheostat. Other post to illumination wire for air/fuel gauge. YOU CANNOT USE A
POTENTIOMETER/RHEOSTAT ON THE GROUND OR POSITIVE WIRE FOR THESE GAUGES! Doing so will
limit the amount of voltage to the meter causing it not to work properly. Illumination wire is the
ONLY wire that can be used for dimming purposes. After you finish all of your connections, run motor
and make sure gauge is working properly, turn lights on and off making sure gauge illuminates
correctly. Use electrical tape over any butt connectors/spliced wires to ensure no 2 wires can touch
causing a short. Put back on the panel underneath the steering column and enjoy a nice new air/fuel
ratio gauge.
http://www.customtacos.com/ubbthreads/files/163546-MVC-010F.JPG
** More work is needed on this article -I'll get to it at some point --Jeff **

This article contains a detailed writeup contributed by STOCKTRD for accessing the rear speakers in
a 2001 - 2004 XtraCab.
This write up will be a combination of the actual Toyota Factory Service Manual (FSM) instructions
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and what I did for removing all the associated panels to gain access to the
rear speakers on a 2001 Extra Cab. This will be the same for 01-04 models.
This procedure may or may not work for previous year (95.5-2000) Tacomas.
1. REMOVE BACK PANEL UPPER GARNISH AND REAR SEAT BACK
(Garnish = Back Wall - Upper Trim Panel)
(a) Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.
(b) Remove the 3 bolts and rear seat back.
First I removed the upper back trim panel located above the rear seat back. It's the one that has the
small removable panel for the child seat installation. This panel has no screws and just pops out.
I didn't need a screwdriver to get it off. But if you need to use one make sure to wrap it in tape so as
not to scratch anything. After that I unbolted the 3 bolts that hold in the rear seat back. The bottom
of the seat back has hooks attached to the body so you have to pull out and then pull up.
Note: In my pics you can see some duct tape. This is for my alarm's magnetic switch that I have on
my rear sliding window.
FSM STEP 2
2. REMOVE BACK PANEL LOWER GARNISH
(Garnish = Back Wall - Lower Trim Panel)
Using a screwdriver, remove the garnish.
My Step 2
Again I didn't need a screwdriver to get the rear bottom trim panel off.
If you need to use a screwdriver, wrap it in tape.
Remember to take the seat belt latches off the holder on the panel before you pop it out.
To put this panel back in just line up the tabs and pop it on.
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FSM STEP 3
3. REMOVE REAR SEAT CUSHIONS
Remove the 4 bolts and rear seat cushions.
My Step 3
I didn't need to remove the rear seat cushions so I left them in.
FSM STEP 4
4. REMOVE QUARTER TRIMS
(a) Remove the 4 screws and scuff plate.
(b) Remove the door opening trim around the quarter trim.
(c) Remove the 2 cover and 2 bolts, disconnect the front seat outer belt.
(d) Using a screwdriver, open the seat belt anchor cover.
(e) Remove the 2 bolts and disconnect the rear seat outer belt.
(f) Remove the screw and coat hook.
(g) Using a screwdriver, pry and remove the quarter trim.
My Step 4
I removed the scuff panel by unscrewing the four screws and slowly prying it up. It is really easy to
break the plastic tabs that hold the panel to the body during removal and installation. It is also easy
to strip out the plastic that the screws attach to during installation. Step B in the FSM says to remove
the "door opening trim" I wasn't not sure what they meant so I didn't do it. Next, I did just as the
FSM states by removing the covers off of the front and rear shoulder belts. A small flat blade with
tape works the best.
As you can see in my pics that the cover on the rear seat belt is attached to itself and doesn't come
off like the front seat belt.
I then removed the bolts holding the front and rear shoulder belts, torque for installation of both
bolts is 31 FT LBS.
The coat hook was then removed just like the FSM says.
I pried the rear trim panel off with my hands - going slowly and making sure I didn't break any of
the black plastic tabs that hold the panel on.
These tabs attach to both the trim panel and the body so you really have to be careful here.
Make sure you watch and listen if any of these tabs fall cause they can get lost in between the foam
in the body channels of the truck.
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The next steps are up to you.

After popping the trim panel off and accounting for all the black tabs you can pull the panel back
enough to get access to the rear speaker.
However, I found it difficult to get in the space to get
the speaker out because the rear seat belt tensioner was still attached. I decided to remove it.
To remove the rear seat belt you take out the bolt on the bottom of the rear tensioner, then
unhook the top hook.
To reinstall the rear seat belt tensioner you hook it on the top then bolt it in. Torque for the bolt is
31 FT LBS. This gave me more room to get to the rear speakers.
To get the rear speakers out you remove the four screws and disconnect the wire connector.
Because I am running an amp to my rear speakers, I removed the entire rear speaker panel with the
speaker attached so it would be easier run my speaker wires to my amp. This was done by
disconnecting the wire connector then taking off the four bolts that held the speaker panel on.
Again, watch the bolts and screws for the rear speaker. Don't tighten them too much or you'll strip
out the plastic. The whole panel just lifts up and out.
Note the two hooks on the top of the panel. Once it's out you can see that Toyota put a piece of
sound dampening material on the body.
Reinstalling everything is the exact opposite of the removal procedure outlined above.
Just remember to be patient when you're putting the trim panel back on. Getting the plastic tabs to
line up is a pain and it took me a few attempts to get it on.
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By: Randy Hobart
If you have a 2003 Tacoma equipped with the factory Keyless Entry system, this simple tip will
upgrade it to a fully functional alarm.
(This tip has only been successfully tested on 2003 models - older models may not have the proper
wiring configuration)
When Toyota builds their 2003 Tacoma, the Keyless Entry system is installed with all of the basic
components required for the Alarm upgrade. In fact, the only component that needs to be added is
the glass-breakage sensor. (This is a small dash-mounted component that also includes an LED
warning light)
The glass-breakage sensor and LED are not required for the Alarm to function.
Follow this simple step to convert the Keyless Entry into an Alarm...
(In the photos, the lower dash panel has been removed for clarity - the lower dash panel does not
need to be removed to access the wiring)
Under the driver-side dash, just to the left of the steering column, locate a single-pin connector and
disconnect it. This connector is taped up to the wiring harness.
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Leave the connector disconnected and re-tape it back against the wiring to secure it.
THATS IT!
A free Alarm upgrade.
A note about the alarm functionality:

This modification converts your keyless entry system into an alarm that functions the same as the
Toyota factory alarm, with the exception of a glass-breakage sensor. The factory alarm is NOT
equipped with a motion sensor or a shock sensor. This means that your alarm will trigger only if:
(1) the doors are forcibly or manually unlocked and opened without the key
(2) power is disconnected (and then re-connected) from the battery
(3) an attempt is made to start the vehicle without the key
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Furthermore, if the alarm is triggered, the security system will disable the starter and continually
attempt to lock the doors if they are unlocked.
This modification is simply a FREE upgrade. If you are in need of a more sophisticated alarm
system, it is recommended that you look into purchasing the actual RS3200 Plus upgrade, or an
aftermarket alarm system.
To test the new modified alarm, perform the following:

Roll down the driver side window.
Activate the alarm by
Press the power lock button in the door, then close the door, OR
Close the door, then lock the doors from the outside with the key, OR
Close the door, then press the LOCK button on the transmitter.
Wait 30 Seconds for the alarm to activate.

Reach in through the window to unlock and open the door.
The alarm should trigger.
To deactivate:
Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter, OR
Unlock the door with the key, OR
Insert the key into the ignition and turn it to ON.
To go one step further, an aftermarket LED light may be added. (Or, the factory LED can be
purchased separately; Toyota part number 08192-3T820)
The lower dash panel will have to be removed to access the proper wiring.
In the first picture above, you will see a wire harness that T's at the base of the steering column and
folds back to the left. The loose end of that wire harness is taped up. Pull the end out where you
can access the unused 4-pin connector. This connector is where the LED/glass sensor gets plugged
in.
There are 4 wires, a black, a white, and 2 colored wires. The 2 colored wires are used for the LED.
You can splice into these 2 wires to connect an LED. (The black and white wires are for the sensor)
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8/26/07
User onelowrx7 suggested that the Toyota LED/Glass breakage sensor could be installed in the
hazard light button location. Here are his notes on installing the sensor and relocating the hazzard
lights button:
The information found in your DIY Alarm Upgrade worked out great for me! Except I wanted to take
it the one step further as explained. I wanted the Toyota Factory L.E.D. / Glass Break Sensor
installed to complete the alarm system. Here is how I did it:
I ordered the part listed above (Toyota part number 08192-3T820) and when it arrived I noticed that
its OEM connectors were intact but the wiring was quite short (about 3 inches). I decided that since
my particular model came with the Rear Differential Lock Switch and the Clutch Start Cancel Switch
that the best location would be where the factory Hazard switch was located. I would have to
relocate the Hazard switch to one of the blanks located at the bottom of the dash next to the
additional 120v power outlets.
Note: if you do not have the Rear Diff Lock Switch or the Clutch Start Cancel switch, you could place
the factory LED there. The stock wiring was long enough although the connectors were all Male/Male
therefore, you would have to have splice your own no matter where you decide.
First, locate the wire that will control the LED / GB Sensor...
(Where the dotted line is – should be about where the wire ends up)
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Next, un-tape the wire so that it can be relocated to your desired location. Run the unwrapped wire
up to the hazzard button's original location.
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Let’s start with the LED harness since that’s the main goal here. First as the
guide above stated, there are 4 wires. 2 that go the Glass Break Sensor (these are white and black).
The other 2 are for the LED (the guide stated “colored”, mine were WHITE w/ BLACK
stripe and RED, be careful when re-connecting these).
Those factory harnesses both on the car side and on the switch side now need to be cut.
They both are male connectors and won’t mate. I chose quick connects, but you can use butt
connectors if you like.
Note: If you're simply placing this switch in a blank location near the steering wheel (where my diff
lock switch or clutch cancel switch is), you're almost done!
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Now on to the Hazard switch. The wiring is only made to go to one location, but with some butt
connectors, a striper, a crimper, and some extra wire, it can go wherever you like! I chose speaker
wire because it was the right gauge and it actually worked out great. Cut the harness with a couple
inches of lead, and then strip the factory wires and attach your extra lengths.
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You’ll need to thread the wiring down to the bottom of the console - this is pretty easy. I
recommend only wiring one wire at a time; there are a total of 8 wires in the hazard switch harness.
I went slowly and still made a mistake, I wired two colors backwards. The result was a hazard switch
AND turn signals that didn’t work. After checking the fuses, I went back and looked over my
wiring and found the culprit. I added some electrical tape spiraled around the wiring just to clean
things up a bit. Here's the finished product:
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Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (TVIP) keyless/security system (RS3200 Plus) into
a 2005+ Tacoma.
View the PDF >>

<img align=right src=files/4runnerpods/podshot.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>
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Many Tacoma enthusiasts are audiophiles, or at least want better, more accurate sound from their
sound system. Installing a good set of component speakers can quickly and easily improve your
Tacoma's stereo. One of the problems we all face is the fact that there are no easy places to mount
the tweeters that come with a component speaker system. However, someone recently discovered
that factory 4Runner tweeter pods will easily mount in any Tacoma, due to the fact that the interior
of the two trucks is so similar. Below is a detailed account of my experience installing factory
4Runner tweeter pods in my 1999 2wd Tacoma.
Order Parts:
Go to your local Toyota dealership and order a set of 98-00 Toyota 4Runner door plastics for the
model with the 6-speaker sound system. Here is the actual part number and description:
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/pods_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>
Part #: 67492-35010-CO
Part #: 67491-35010-CO
You'll need to order 1 of each of the parts above. One is for the driver's door, the other is for the
passenger door. I'm not sure which is which, since I've already installed them. The price should be
somewhere around $20 each.
Installation:
The tweeters that I installed in the pods are 3/4 Rockford Fosgate Fanatic X series tweeters. It
appears as though 3/4 is about the largest tweeter you can squeeze into these pods, but you may be
able to fit a 1 tweeter in there.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/compare_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>First, remove

your factory door triangle pieces and compare them to your new 4Runner pieces. You'll probably
notice that the two aren't exactly the same. The 4Runner plastics are a little taller and cause the
plastic snaps to not line up. I cut about 1/4 off of the bottom of each of the pods with a hack saw to
make them fit. I used a Dremmel tool to smooth the edges when I was done. I'll cover these pieces
later with some material to cover up the semi-rough looking edges.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/snap_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Also, if you

compare the round snaps that attach the pod to the door, you'll notice that there is a clear plastic
boot on the snap on the new piece. This boot will need to be removed in order for the snap to fit in
the Tacoma's mounting hole. See photo for more detail.
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<img align=right src=files/4runnerpods/bare_door_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Next,

you'll need to mount your tweeters in the pods. Since there is no built-in way to do this, I used
packing tape to hold the tweeters in there (Shhh, don't tell anybody). I have yet to see if this will
hold. I may need to use something else. Also, don't forget to attach a long enough speaker wire to
reach all the way down through your door and into the cab to your crossover unit.
Next, I removed the entire door panel and door speaker mount so that I could feed the speaker wire
through the boot and into the cab. Feeding the wire in through this boot was about the hardest part
of this installation. I found a straightened coat hanger works really well for this.
<img align=left src=files/4runnerpods/finished_tn.jpg border=1 hspace=8 vspace=8>Next, I

connected the speaker wire to my crossover, re-installed my door panel, and I was done! It took me
almost two hours to do the first one (mostly because I had to trim the 4Runner pods) and only about
an hour to do the second one.
Best of all, they sound and look great!!

By: AFP520
<img src=files/110-gauges.jpg border=1>
First, to access your instrument cluster, follow the

Dash Take-Apart Instructions.
Once you have access to the back side of your instrument cluster, you will find (4) 194 bulbs. Simply
swap out those bulbs with any 194 type you want.
I used Polarg B1 Hybrid 194 Xenon bulbs and I am very pleased with the results.
Before putting your dash all back together, I recommend testing the lights to make sure they work.
Also, don't forget to hook the dimmer switch back up. Otherwise, the lights won't work at all.
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By: MTB_taco, MadAktion, Jeff

These instructions will help you take your dash apart to gain access to the instrument cluster and
stereo receiver. Always pay attention to the disassembly procedure to remember how to reassemble the dash.
Tools Needed:
Stubby
Phillips Head
Screwdriver
Small
Hook
Tool
OR
Flat Head
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Screwdriver
Phillips Head
Screwdriver
10mm Nut
Driver or
Socket
1: Remove all of the temperature control knobs, including the A/C button (95-00 models).
Using a small hook or a flat-head screwdriver, carefully pull the control panel straight out. It will pop
out with a slight tug.
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2: Remove two phillips head screws from behind temperature control panel.
3: Remove ashtray and remove the phillips head screw on upper right side
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4: Carefully remove center black dash molding. This can be easily done by grabbing the
plastic between the vents and the temperature controls and pulling toward you and slightly down. It
will pop out with a slight tug.
5: Disconnect the air bag harness, if applicable.
At this point, you have access to the stereo receiver. The stereo brackets are attached using 4
10mm bolts. These bolts also have a phillips head, but it is recommended that you use a 10mm
socket to remove them.
If you wish to gain access to the instrument cluster, continue reading...
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6: Remove the (4) 10mm nuts from the dash molding below the steering wheel. Unscrew the
Phillips screw under the left vent.
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7: Remove 2 phillips screws that hold the hood release mechanism in place. Manuver the
hood release lever free from the dash molding. (The hood release lever may be left in place for the
dash panel to lay in the floorboard, if desired)
8: Carefully pull off the panel. There are clips holding the left side, which will pop off with a
slight tug. If you are accessing the instrument cluster, this panel does not need to be completely
removed, but rather just dropped down.
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9: Now, remove the clock and keyhole panel. It will pop straight off with a slight tug.
10:Next unscrew the black trim around the gauges. There are two screws under the upper
panel of the gauge trim panel. This is where the stubby Phillips head screwdriver comes in handy.
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11: Next pull the gauge trim out. Pull gently and take care not to pull too hard. If you have a tilt
steering wheel, make sure it is tilted all the way down. There are several clips that will pop out with
a slight tug.
12: As you pull the gauge trim panel out, disconnect any applicable accesory harnesses:
hazard flashers, ECT, clutch start cancel, rear locker, and the dimmer switch.
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13: Remove the 4 phillips screws that hold the instrument cluster in place. There are two on
each side.
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14: Pull the instrument cluster partially out and disconnect the 3 wiring harnesses and
remove cluster
To gain access under the dash on the passenger side, remove the 2 Phillips head screws just
beneath the glove box. Unlatch the glove box and take it out.

By: slamdtaco
This article will explain how to disable the interior door buzzer that sounds when your door is open
with the key on. Please note: If you perform this modification, you will also be disabling the
(manual transmission) reverse beep notification, and you will also lose the seatbelt buzzer.
Tools needed:
- Pliers
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- Metric socket set
First, remove the screws located above the gauges as seen here.
Pull the kick panel towards you to uncover the bolt. Remove the bolt and pull the plastic
piece out just a little to make it easier to remove the dash piece above it.
out.
Gently, but firmly pull the dash piece that surrounds the gauges towards you until it pops
You may find it easier to move it out of the way if you remove the clips on the back first.
Next, remove the 4 screws that hold the gauges in place.
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Pull the guage towards you and unplug the 2 wiring harnesses on the top of it.
Pull the gauge cluster out and turn it over. Remove the 3 screws in the back of it.
It will look like this with the cover removed. The buzzer is circled in the photo.
I used a pair of pliers and gently turned the round buzzer until it broke off. I have also
been told (by user amber00dak) that you can run a bead of 100% silicone around the bottom of the
buzzer and some in the hole on the top. It will still make noise, but with the radio on you can't hear
it.
Finally, the annoying buzzer is gone. Put all pieces back and you are ready to leave the door open
and enjoy your music.
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IMPORTANT! ALWAYS WEAR YOUR SEATBELT!
This mod is strictly for disabling the flashing light - not intended for operating your truck without
wearing your seatbelt. This mod is only posted due to frequent inquiry.
For whatever reason, you may wish to disable the flashing fasten seat belt light in your dash. Here is
a very quick and simple solution.
Underneath the driver seat, there is a set of wires that connect to the seat belt latch. Just beneath
the carpet, the wire is connected with a connector. Simply unplug the connector.
To reverse the mod, re-connect the connector.
Alternate procedure for Power Lumbar Seats:

For those of you who have the luxury of power lumbar seats, disconnecting the wires will disable
your lumbar. As an alternative, locate the 2 wires leading to the seat belt latch, at the side of the
seat. Cut one of the wires to disable the light. It is highly recommended to install protective quickdisconnect butt-connectors to the ends of the snipped wires for easy re-activation. Additionally, it is
recommended to apply electrical tape to the ends of the disconnected wires.

By: lifetrddeath
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/toolsusedsm.jpg border=0>

First a list of items I used to accomplish the task:
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- Ratchet bit driver with Philips bit

- small allen wrench
- 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive
- Your choice of fabric
- 1/8, 1/16 foam or craft batting
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/parts1sm.jpg border=0>

Your first step involves removing the following:
-
door handle (2 screws)

the screw from the door latch
the Omega pin and window crank and clear disk
the black triangle piece with the mirror handle
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/handlesm.jpg border=0>

To remove the door handle, used a philips screw driver and lossen up the two long screws holding it
in. Then pull from the door.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/latchscrewsm.jpg border=0>

To unsecure the door latch, loosen and remove the screw with a philips. Then push the latch
towards the front of your vehicle to lossen it from the clips ont he inside. The latch itself cannot be
removed.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/cranksm.jpg border=0>

To remove the window crank, I pried the crank back with my flathead screw driver (it should allow
you to see the Omega pin), then with a very small allen wrench, I pushed the Omega pin out. Now
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pull the window crank from the door along with the clear disk.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/trianglesm.jpg border=0>

To remove the black triangle piece, first you must loosen and remove the screw holding the mirror
handle in. DO so with a philips. Then, with some effort, pull the mirror handle out and away. Next,
take your flathead, and pry off the black triangle. I should come off pretty easily.header.
With a flathead screwdriver, pry between the door panel and the door and pop out the 12 white
plastic fasteners. Just get the screwdriver really close to one (if you pry back and look close you can
see them) and pry it out, they should pop out without breaking.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/nopanelsm.jpg border=0>

Now to remove the panel from the door. Place a hand where the black triangle was, and pull the
panel away from the door to clear the screws showing and the lift up. It should now be loose. Lift up
on the other side to clear the lock swtich. Now to clear the door latch, first push the latch towards
the front of your truck, after its loose just kind of twist it sideways and push it through the hole...
your door panel should now succesfully be removed from your door.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/tabssm.jpg border=0>

Your first step to braking down your door panel is to remove the 12 white fasteners, which slide ride
out, and also the 7 philips screws holding the door pocket and speaker grill on.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/tabs2sm.jpg border=0>

With the plastic door pocket piece now removed, you'll want to seperate the main panel from the top
armrest piece. It is attached with 5 or 6 metal tabs that are bent over. Just pry them up and then
remove.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/sealtabssm.jpg border=0>
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Now that that piece is removed, you need to remove the black window seal that runs along the top
of it. It's held on with 5 or 6 similar tab style things. Just pry them up and remove.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelapartsm.jpg border=0>

You should now be at the point where you can rip off all the old fabric and vinyl. Just peel up the
edges on the back side and start ripping. Take care not to actually rip aything though, you'll need
these pieces for templates.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelfoamsm.jpg border=0>

When you ripped the fabric off, you should have noticed that there is a foam like material between
the panel and the fabric. Since it comes off with the fabric, you'll need to get either 1/8, 1/16 foam
sheets or just buy a yard or two of batting from your local fabric store. Place your panel ontop of the
batting or foam and cut out a piece slightly larger, but to the same shape as your panel.
Now, in a controlled, well ventilated area, spray your penal board with 3M Super 77 (or higher, ie
90). Lay down your foam or batting on top of the board and firmyl secure it. It should be
immediately stuck and secure. Now you'll want to trim the excess foam or batting by cutting with
scissors along the edges of the board.
Time to cut your first fabric. Position the gray stock fabric piece (the one where the window crank
and handle were) on top of the fabric you selected to replace the stock one. I chose gray velour.
Again, as with the foam, cut out the shape of the fabric, but give a little to make sure you can secure
it firmly to the back of the board.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/panelbacksm.jpg border=0>

Again, in a well ventilated area, spray the back of your fabric, and firmly press it down on top of the
foam. Then, flip your board over, spray the edges of the board and the fabric, and then fold the
fabric over the edges of the board and secure them to the back. The fabric will probably stick very
quickly with the 3M stuff and your hands are gonna get all glue-y.
*If you want, to secure even better, use short, strong staples (ones that won't go all the way
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through) and staple the fabric on the back. Another way us to use run it through a sewing machine
so the fabric is sewn into the panel.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/notstraightsm.jpg border=0>

Don't worry about your bottom edge not being straight on the front. It can be as jagged as you want
because it will be being covered by your other fabric.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redcutsm.jpg border=0>

Now take the stock vinyl from the bottom portion of the panel and use it as a template to cut your
other material. I went with red leather. As always, be sure to leave extra around the edges so you
can secure it to the back.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redfoldsm.jpg border=0>

This is one of the tricky parts. You need to create a rather straight, smooth seem at the top. I used
the stock piece to draw a outline on the back of the leather so I could see the shape of what need to
be made. You'll need to spray the back of the fabric, and fold it over and glue it to itself. The glue
may have to sit a second before attempting or it won't stick. Another option would to use a similar
color thread and use a sewing machine to sew the seem tight and straight.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redgluesm.jpg border=0>

Once that is nice and dry and not coming apart, it's time to lay it on the door panel and glue it down.
As always, in your ventilated area, spray back of the folded seem well with the glue, continue to
spray the rest of the back of the leather. Then lay it down on top of the panel, just overlapping the
gray area by maybe 1/8 to 1/4 and firmly press down to secure it. Now it's time to flip it over and do
the back.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/redonsm.jpg border=0>

Hopefully you had plenty of extra on the edges to streatch tight and fold over the back of the panel.
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Spray the glue on the panel and give it your damndest to streatch out the ripples and keep creases
from forming on the corners and curved edges. It should now look similar to this.
* It may be a good idea, when dealing with a thicker material like leather, to staple down the
material near corners and edges along the back to keep warm weather from releasing the glue.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/armrestsm.jpg border=0>

Near the end now. You'll need to strip the vinyl material from the door armrest. It just takes peeling
up the corners on the inside and skinning the thing. Try and leave the foam underneath in place.
It's good foam, no need to ruin!
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/armrest2sm.jpg border=0>

Use that just removed vinyl to get a good idea of the size of leather you'll need to cut. After that,
place the armrest on top of the your material with the backside facing up. You'll notice the 6 tabs
there, they should punch right through your leather or other material with a little force. (Look close
at the picture, the black arrows point to the tabs.)
Now, glue the metal on the backside (don't spray glue on the foam area) and tightly pull from both
sides and glue to the back of the armrest. This piece can be a little difficult, but take your time so
secure all the way around and make clean edges.
When that is ready and dry, replace the door lock hole (you'll need to punch a hole for it in the
leather) and also put the black window seal back on. Again, the tabs on the window seal should
punch right through your fabric with a little force.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/pocketonsm.jpg border=0>

Now you should replace the plastic door pocket/speaker grill piece. Line it up with the holes in the
back and drive the screws through. If you used batting instead of foam, this will be a huge pain
because the batting will curl all over the screw before it gets through and could brake the areas the
screw need to enter. So be careful. You may need to back out the screw and with a Leatherman, or
Gerber tool, pick ou the material before proceeding. When that is firmly secure with the 7 screws, it
should look something like this.
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<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/attachsm.jpg border=0>

Last major step. You need to re-attach the top armrest to the door panel. The 6 tabs you punched
through the armrest now need to lineup and be pushed through the slots on the door panel. These
may be covered up now by the first fabric you layed down, so just push them through, and bend
them over the back of the panel to secure.
<img width=250 height=188 border=1 src=files/recover_doors/finishedsm.jpg border=0>

Replace all the little white plastic clips (12 of them) to their homes on the back of the panel and you
should now have it ready to put back on your truck. Go outside, and just reverse the steps for taking
the panel off for putting it back on. You're new door panel looks great! Good job!

By: Blangkang
Most good anti-theft systems have one common feature: starter kill. This feature alone is enough to
prevent a vehicle from getting stolen, or at least slow the the thief down or frusterate him until he
gives up.
On Tacomas equipped with a manual transmission, there is a clutch sensor that tells your ECU if the
clutch is being depressed so it can start the engine. If you disconnect that sensor, the truck won't
start. So, the idea is to create a switched circuit that can be toggled to create a homemade starter
kill system.
This tech article described how to install such a security upgrade on an 05' Tacoma X-Runner.
Please note that the wiring locations/directions will most likely be different on pre-05 models.
Tools needed:
- a toggle switch
- Amount of 16-18g wire need to run the switch to your location
- Handful of wire connects / solder gun & solder
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- Electrical tape and black wire loom

- Wire cutters/strippers
The first step in this process is to find a secret location for your switch. It is a good idea to put the
switch somewhere that is not obvious but easily accessible.
Next, you are going to locate the clutch sensor that's just left of your clutch. The wire you're going
to cut is the BLACK and BLUE.
With the wire cut, connect both cut ends to the new wires that leads to your switch. Make sure your
connections are soldered or made with secure wire connectors. You don't want this connection to be
undependable.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/01.jpg>
Make sure you protect the wires with electrical tape. Also, it may be a good idea to put black wire
loom on your new wire leads to make the installation appear stock.
<img border=1 src=files/05_theft/02.jpg width=250 height=191><img border=1

src=files/05_theft/03.jpg width=250 height=191>
Operation is simple: When you exit your truck, simply turn the switch off. Before you attempt to
start your truck, simply turn the switch back on.
I know this is not going to STOP someone who wants to steal your truck - if they want it that bad
they will get it. But this easy modification will either stop or delay them.
By: Randy Hobart

Before I ever got my new Tacoma home from the dealership, there was already something I wanted
to change. I'm sure some folks don't mind this, or perhaps don't even care, but I simply can't stand
the beeeep that sounds when the factory alarm is armed and disarmed.
The official term for this component is the piezo buzzer. On some earlier models, there is a
programming function that disables the piezo. However, on newer models (2001-2004) with the
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RS3200 system, the programming function is not applicable. I even went as far as to ask the
dealership if there was a way to turn it off. Nope, you can't turn it off. That simply wasn't good
enough for me, so I was compelled to figure it out on my own.
The piezo buzzer is located under the hood, between the battery and the driver side fender. You will
most likely need to loosen the battery to get your hand in between. There is a little tweeter looking
device connected to the wiring harness - it may or may not be wrapped with thin foam padding.
Simply unplug the piezo connector to disable it. For added protection, I would advise that you use
electrical tape to cover the exposed connectors.
<img width=300 border=1 src=files/piezo.jpg border=1>
Now you can enjoy your alarm in peace. This component is the same for both the keyless entry
system and the fully functional alarm system for 2001-2004 Tacomas. Some models may differ - you
can try the following instructions to see if your system accepts the programming before
disconnecting the piezo.
The aforementioned method most likely may not work for 95-00 models (and possibly 2001 models)
with the RS3000 keyless/security system. Instead, try these programming instructions for your pre01:
Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to ON (not ACC).
Using 1 remote transmitter, press and hold both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time for
over 2 seconds until the status monitor's LED lights up.
Select the operating mode (Complete these steps within 30 seconds)
PIEZO OFF - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button once.
(The Piezo chirps once and the lights flash once.)
PIEZO ON - Press and release the transmitter's UNLOCK button twice.
(The Piezo chirps twice and the lights flash twice.)
Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK position.
(The Piezo chirps 3 times and the lights flash 3 times.)

By: ZR2Steve
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This modification will enable the power outlets for your accessories to have full time power even
when the ignition is turned off. This can be useful if you have a CB radio with a re-set feature, or a
cell phone charger, map lights etc. Once completed, you must be careful not to leave any devices
running or charging for too long and drain your battery.
Look at the fuse box under the hood, the cover shows the location of the fuses, relays, etc marked
on the cover. You will see a block marked PWR OUTLET. Now remove the cover and locate that relay,
using the the map on the cover. Remove that relay, it pulls up, but may need to be wiggled. If you
look at the socket there are 4 plugs, 2 small & 2 large plugs. The large plugs use standard male
crimp connectors, those are the two you want to jump.
Now make a short, (appox 2) wire with two stardard flat male crimp connectors and plug this wire
into the only two socket that stardard connectors will fit into, where the removed relay was.
Here is the jumper installed. If you would like to check the work before you turn on the key that is
OK. Put the jumper in and BEFORE you turn on the key, see if your sockets have power.
Another thing you may want to verify - is that the line is still fused. To test, pull the stock fuse, and
see if the outlets still have power. If they don't, then the line is still fused.
You may want to keep the unused relay in a 35mm film canister for a spare. The canister will keep it
in good condition and is easily stored in the truck somewhere.
For many 2003 Model Tocomas, the range on the factory keyless entry remote is
far less than desirable. In my case, I had a 2002 model that had very decent range. But I then got
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into a 2003 model, and the remote range was a far cry shorter. I do not have an explination as to
why it is so dramatically insufficient compared to previous models, but I certainly wanted to find a
way to improve it. This method simply lengthens the antenna.
To lengthen the antenna, you will need to add about 4 or 5 feet of wire to the end of the antenna
with a butt-connector.
The antenna is located under the driver side dash.
<IMG border=1 src=files/rs3200-1_1.jpg border=1>
It is a small, grey wire with a black stripe. There should be about 6 or 7 inches of the end of it
hanging freely from the harness. It is just behind and to the right of the fuse cluster. (It is not
necessary to remove any dash panels to access the wire - the dash is removed in the picture for
clarity.)
The best way to feed the extension wire is to first feed it from the top corner of the dash, at the Apillar. The A-pillar trim will most likely need to be removed. Once the wire is fed down behind the
dash, use a butt-connector to attach the 2 wire ends.
Run the wire up the A-Pillar and tuck the remaining wire up into the front of the headliner, along the
windshield.
Testing the range, I found that it increased at least double it's previous range. The increase is not
staggering, by any means, but it is improved. I estimate that I now have a range of 35 to 40 feet.

By: Paul Vincent
The following covers my custom installation of an AutoMeter MiniTach (about $60) with the wiring
done completely in-cab on my '98 Tacoma Extended Cab.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/A_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>

Deciding on the place to put the tachometer was where I began. I decided to mount it on the
steering column right in front of the speedometer for a clean, low-profile look. To mount it, I marked
the centerline on the cover with a permanent marker and then drilled the holes necessary for the
base to be lined up. Sheet metal screws came with the tachometer so I used a small squared
shaped piece of sheet metal underneath the plastic cover to help secure the base on the plastic
cover (NOTE: The tips of the screws were ground down so that the cover would fit without the screws
hitting surfaces inside the steering column.) I then loosely attached the tachometer to see how it fit
in the dash and everything looked fine - plenty of clearance from the steering wheel and the
speedometer was still easily readable with the tachometer adjusted at different angles.
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<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/Tach_tn.gif align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>
Once the fitment of the tachometer on the column cover was finished, the focus shifted to routing
the wiring. For ease of connection, I decided to connect the tachometer to my in-dash Sony CD
wiring harness adapter using the ground spade connector, 12V+ ignition wire, and dash illumination
wire. The tachometer wires travel from the back of the tachometer, under the gauge pod, along the
kick panel (going over the parking brake) to the center console. The tachometer 12V+ ignition (red
wire), illumination (white wire), and ground (black wire) were soldered to the wiring adapter's 12V+
wire, dash lighting wire, and spade ground terminal. I secured the grounding spade connection to
the left bolt of the parking brake bracket. The tach signal wire (green) was routed past the center
console interior to the passenger side kick panel area towards the computer (which is behind the
glove box) - which brings us to the next step: finding the right ECM circuit to use for the tach signal.
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/wiring_tn.jpg align=right vspace=8 hspace=8>
After getting the wiring diagram manual, I found which connection to use on the ECM. ECM
connector E8 (the 26 pin connector on the left) contains the ignition signal that should be used (the
IGF signal - Black/Yellow wire to pin 17 of connector). The green tachometer wire was temporarily
inserted into the back of E8 connector pin 17 to verify that it was the correct one. Once verified (the
engine was able to start and the tachometer was reading), the green tachometer wire was spliced to
the IGF signal wire (see image at right).
<img border=1 src=files/tach_install/B_tn.jpg align=left vspace=8 hspace=8>

After it was installed I checked out how it performed.
The Tacoma was on stock wheels and tires and the AutoMeter MiniTach checked out as follows:
Idle: 750 - 800 rpm

2nd gear at just less than 55mph: ~5,300rpm
5th gear at 55mph: ~2,000rpm
Matches nearly perfectly the top speeds in each gear per owners manual. I don't know why Toyota
decided most 5 speed Tacoma's don't need tachometers, but as this has shown you, it's not really
that hard to add what should have been there from the start in a manual transmission vehicle.
For 2001+ Tacomas equipped with a factory alarm or keyless entry, here are some programming
options that allow you to adjust the way your locks work.
The first programming option allows you to set the entry unlock to: (A) unlock the driver door with
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one push, and the remaining doors with a second push OR (B) unlock all of the doors with a single
push.
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 2 times.
(IN - OUT - IN - OUT)
Insert the key into and remove it from the ignition switch 1 time.
(IN - OUT)
Insert the key into the ignition switch and leave it in.
Close the driver's door.
Turn the key from LOCK to ON 4 times, ending at LOCK
(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK)
Wait for the locks to stop, then remove the key from the ignition switch.
On the key fob, press and release both LOCK and UNLOCK buttons at the same time.
[For all doors unlock] press and release the UNLOCK button.
[For driver door unlock] press and release the LOCK button.
Open the driver's door. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
The second programming option allows you to set the doors to lock when when the key is turned on,
and unlock when the key is turned off.
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Insert the key into the ignition switch.
Turn the key from LOCK to ON 5 times, ending at ON
(LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON - LOCK - ON)
Programming option (select one of the following).
[Ignition controlled lock ON] Close the driver's door.
[Ignition controlled lock OFF] Close the driver's door twice, leaving it closed.
(SHUT - OPEN - SHUT)
Turn the key to LOCK. The programming is complete. If programming did not occur, start over.
When performing the programming, the park lights may or may not flash to confirm that the
program was accepted. The only way to confirm the programming is to test them to see if they are
functioning as desired.
These procedures may or may not apply to pre-2001 models.
You can also find an official Toyota TSB on this topic by viewing this PDF.
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By: Jeff

- A socket set with 10-14mm sockets
- Another person - for rear seat removal
This tutorial was written to illustrate the steps necessary to remove the interior parts from the rear
section of a double cab Tacoma. They can be used in conjuction with other articles in the Interior
category in this tech section for a full interior disassembly.
The first thing you should do is remove the sill panels. They are held in place with two phillips
screws each. Once the screws are removed, carefully pop the panels loose from the body of the
truck.
Next, you need to remove the rear seat. Make sure the area behind your rear seat is empty,
including removing the factory jack and tools.
The rear seat is held in place by two 14mm bolts in the front and 4 14mm bolts behind the seat. In
the front, you'll need to remove the trim panels to expose the bolts. In the rear, you'll need to lift
the carpet access points to reveal the bolts.
Once all 6 bolts are out, get someone to help you remove the rear seat. It's not that heavy, it's just
bulky and awkward to remove through the small rear doors.
<img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/2.jpg border=1><img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/3.gif
border=1>
Next, you'll want to remove the rear cup holder, which is attached under there the rear seat was. It
is attached with 4 10mm bolts.
Next, you'll want to remove the rear seat belts. On each side, there are three places where the seat
belt is attached to the truck. The first two are attached to the floor near the rear corners of the
truck. The final point is on the rear side panel. The third bolt is exposed by lifting the plastic cover
on the rotating seat belt mount.
<img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/6.jpg border=1><img src=files/rear_dcab_disassemble/5.jpg
border=1>
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Once the seat belts bolts are removed, carefully remove the rear interior side panel where the third
seat belt mount was. It should be held in place by 6 or 7 clips.
You'll also want to remove the trim panel directly below the rear window.
Finally, remove the 4 grocery bag hooks. Each one is attached by a phillips screw. Once these are
removed, you can remove the rear fabric panel. It should simply slide up and out.

By: Jeff

First, make sure the window is rolled all the way down. This is the door panel we are working with:
<img src=files/rear_doorpanel/1.jpg>
Next, you'll want to remove the door handle. Remove the single phillips screw and push the
assembly to the right to release it from the door. If you choose to remove the handle from the
opening mechanism rod, this is a good time to do that as well.
Next, remove the top of the arm rest. The arm rest pops loose by pulling slightly towards you and
up. It will most likely be very tight and a bit difficult to remove. Be careful to pull towards you as
you pull up or you may break off one of the attachment tabs.
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Once the arm rest is removed, remove the two phillips screws that hold the door panel to the door.
Now, go around the edge of the door panel and pop the door panel loose. Once the door panel is
free from the door, pull slightly up on the door panel to unhook it from the top of the door.
Before you move the door panel away from the door, make sure you disconnect the power window
wiring harness. It is located just about in the middle of the panel.
<img src=files/rear_doorpanel/5.gif border=1>
With the door panel removed, you have easy access to replace speakers, install dynomat (pictured),
or repair window/door components.

By: ParkRat
In order to perfrom this operation, you'll need the following tools:

First, make sure the window is rolled down all the way. This is the door panel we are working with:
Remove the black trim piece attached to the pillar. You can pry it off with a flat head screw driver. It
pops right off.
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Next, pop the screw hole covers off the armrest. Again use a thin flat head screw driver and be
careful not to scratch the plastic. Remove the screws.
Next, pop the power window/door lock panel off with a flat head screw driver. Make sure you start
with the upper part close to the power mirror switches (see orange arrow). Disconnect wires from
the door locks and power window unit.
Next, remove the phillips screw holding the door handle on. Once this is done push the door handle
towards the door hinges and it will release from the door. Then you can pull on it and it will be loose.
The door panel is held on by red plastic tabs that snap into the door itself. Using a flat head
screwdriver (or door panel removal tool) pry up on the door panel around the edges. Be careful.
They should pop out pretty easy.
At this point you should be able to lift up on the door panel and it will release from the top edge. You
may have to turn the panel a little to slide the door handle through the opening. Disconnect the
cable from the tweeter and your door panel is now off!
<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel9.jpg>Door handle still attached

<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel10.jpg>Disconnect tweeter harness
<img width=190 border=1 src=files/doorpanel/panel11.jpg>Naked door skin
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This is a guide written by user Nickefer to replace the interior lights on for your A/C Panel and Gauge
Cluster.
This article was composed based on installation in a '99, but 95.5-2004 trucks with a non-electric
A/C panel should be the same.
The lights were ordered from Super Bright LEDs. They provide a 1-Year Warranty & $5 Shipping
Tools Needed:
- Phillips Head #2 Screwdriver
- Socket Wrench
- 10mm Socket
- Needle Nose Pliers
Bulbs Needed:
- Gauge Cluster: (2) #194 Wedge Based Bulbs
- A/C Panel: (2) #74 Wedge Based Bulbs
*I used blue, they also offer red, amber, white, green, and uv blacklight*
*I also used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb to provide sufficient light to the Fuel Gauge and Water
Temp. If my pics seem too bright they also offer 4-LED and 1-LED Bulbs*
Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store. Search Keywords:
Guage - 194
A/C Panel - 74
Now let's change some lights!
1. Remove all of your A/C Panel Controls as marked and pull the cover off to expose
your A/C Panel Bulbs.
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2. Remove the (2) Factory Bulbs and replace with (2) 74 Wedge Based Bulbs (marked
below in blue). Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw to continue with dash removal (marked in
yellow).
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3. Remove the Ash Tray and Cigarette Lighter. Also remove (1) Phillips Head Screw
located behind the Ash Tray.
4. Remove the (2) Clips on each side of the lower part of your center dash. Pull it out
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far enough until you see the (2) Harnesses plugged into the back of your cigarette lighters and
unplug those.
5. Pull out your dash from the bottom up, exposing (1) Cigarette Lighter Harness and
(2) Harnesses plugged into your Airbag Controls. You only have to remove the ones marked. The
other small white harness can remain plugged in.
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6. Now for the gauge cluster. Remove the (4) 10mm Socket Screws and (1) Phillips
Head Screw to remove the lower part of your dash. Your hood release will still be connected, I just
laid it in the floor board, if you want to disconnect it (2) Phillips Head Screws are located on the
backside of the lever.
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7. Now remove (2) Phillips Head Screws below your gauges and (2) Phillips Head
Screws above.
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8. Next, carefully pull back on your dash starting from the side with your Hazard
Lights, unplug the Hazard Light Harness. The plastic around your ignition can be popped loose and
remove the harness plugged into the back of it.
9. Once you get to the left side of your dash, you will need to reach under and unplug
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your Dimmer Harness. Also if you have a manual transmission, make sure you unplug your Clutch
Start Cancel Harness. Also to make it easier reach up and pop your upper air duct apart from the
lower part. As you remove your dash around your gauges be sure to have your steering wheel all the
way down. Also i found it easier to remove if you pull back and hold onto the lever that changes the
height of your steering wheel.
cluster in.
10. Once your dash is removed remove (4) Phillips Head Screws securing your gauge
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11. You have (3) Harnesses plugged into the rear of your gauges, unplug those. I
believe if you have a tach you have (4) Harnesses.
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12. Remove your gauge cluster and turn it over, you have (4) main twist-lock bases.
The upper (2) are for your blinkers and the lower (2) are the ones you want to change. Twist the
sockets until they come loose and remove the factory bulbs from each and replace with (2) #194
Wedge Bases Bulbs. I purchased both the 5-LED Wide Angle and 1-LED bulbs just in case the 5 -LED
was too bright. I personally like the 5-LED because how the bulbs are positioned it provides enough
light to the fuel and water temp gauge, seeing as how there are only (2) bulbs to light up your entire
dash.
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13. Once you've changed your lights (but before you put your dash back together), go and plug
your gauges back in and test them out. Your lights will not turn on unless your dimmer is plugged in,
so get the panel and just plug it in. Also if a bulb appears to be out, turn the bulb around because
they are polarized.
Now put everything back together and enjoy!
The Finished Result!
Remember, I used the 5-LED Wide Angle Bulb. If it's too bright, I recommend trying the 1-LED, it
provides a softer blue.
You'll notice that the A/C panel looks kinda spotty, well thats how it is. My friend did this in his ZR2
and it looked the same way. I still like it; don't care too much about it.
Also just as a disclaimer: your dimmer will not work anymore - LEDs cannot dim, they just turn off.
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I also changed my dome light for kicks. Here's a quick write-up about that:
To do this, just un-pop off the cover for your dome light. Next, take out your factory bulb and
replace it with a #3022 Festoon of your choice.
For the replacement bulb, I used a Blue 9-LED Festoon.
Click HERE to go directly to Super Bright LEDs Store.
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Search Keywords:
Dome Light - 3022

By: Enola Gaia
The stock Toyota seats are common objects of complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there
are often questions about installing alternative seats in Tacos. One option is to transplant better
seats from another vehicle into your truck.
This file documents some information about the installation process involved in such transplants,
based on experiences reported on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves - it is a
summary set of info and pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
There have been claims of many more installations than are listed below. That's because this listing
is limited to pointing you to substantial info on how those installations were accomplished.
Although this compilation was intended to concentrate on the 95.5 - 04 Tacomas, decent info /
writeups on earlier pre-Tacos are included as well.
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NOTE: For information about mounting new aftermarket seats into your Tacoma, see the related
tech article Seat Installations II.
Option 1: Installing Stock Seats from Another Toyota Truck
Let's start with the most straightforward transplant you can try: Seats from a Tacoma / pickup of
the same generation as yours should bolt into your Taco with no modification - provided they use
the same mounting scheme as your stock seats.
The two mounting schemes used in trucks / Tacos
For Toyota trucks up through the 2004 Tacomas there are two types of mounts used for the front
seats. One type is the mount set used for the single-piece bench seat in the Regular Cab models.
The other is the mount set used for the 60/40 split bench seat and the buckets in all Tacoma models.
The specifics of these two mounting schemes seem to remain consistent within each of the Toyota
truck generations (e.g., 1989 - 1995 pre-Tacos; 1995.5 - 2004 Tacos, etc.). However, they are not
consistent across generations, even for the same type of seats.
For all generations, there are no more than 8 stock holes (or molded hole locations) in the cab (4
per side). In some cases (especially the single-piece bench seats) seats are factory installed using
fewer than the available 8 holes. Any unused holes will be either (a) pre-drilled but plugged or (b)
not drilled out. Unused holes will not have a nut on the underside (like the ones that get used).
Swapping between Taco / truck 60/40 split bench and bucket seats
Generally speaking, you can swap 60/40's and Tacoma buckets easily, because they use the same
mount layout. This is pretty much guaranteed to be a straightforward swap so long as the seats are
from the same generation of truck / Taco.
However, the 60/40 brackets and the bucket brackets (and in some cases the seats themselves)
aren't of identical height. This means you may have to do some modding / fabbing to match your
original seat height.
Swapping between Taco / truck single (one-piece) bench and bucket seats
The most common factory seat swap people ask about is replacement of a single-piece bench seat
in a Regular Cab with factory buckets.
The single bench mount set is not sufficient for mounting either a 60/40 split bench or a pair of
Tacoma buckets into your Tacoma / pickup. Depending on your truck's generation, the basic bench
seat may be mounted using as few as 4 and a maximum of 6 bolts. Toyota truck buckets require 8
bolts (4 per seat).
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You should never install seats using fewer bolts than the mounting scheme is designed for. If there
is provision for 4 bolts per side, use all 4. Three bolts and wishful thinking may not be enough to
keep your butt in place during an impact.
In the worst case, you may have to drill holes in your floorboard to accommodate the additional
bolts. In the best case, you may be able to use an existing bolt hole with no more effort than
removing a plug or drilling through the factory-molded location.
In our forum, Richie Rich has provided a good writeup on his bench-to-bucket swap in a '96 Regular
Cab:
FWIW, I just got done putting buckets out of a 2000 extra cab into my 96 Tacoma.
Out of the 8 bolt holes needed, 6 of them were lined up and ready to go. I had to lift the carpet up
to find the front inners but they were there. Just cut some small holes in the carpet for the bolts and
you are good to go.
The outer rears lined up perfectly but the bolts from the bench seat were too short.
The inner rears were the only real work. You would think they would bolt to the holes left vacant by
the seatbelt buckles from the bench seat but they don't. They actually bolt to the trans tunnel.
Toyota at least stamped the location of the holes on the floorpan. All I had to do was punch the
centers of the spots and drill em out.
Since there are no nuts welded to the underside of the floor at those locations I had to use nuts. Be
sure to use large, thick washers on the underside of the floor, I had to get out the BFH to give the
washers a nice curve to match the trans tunnel. Oh yeah, use lock washers too, so they don't work
loose.
One more thing, out of the 6 bolts that hold the bench seat and seatbelts in, you can only reuse two
of them - the fronts.
I had some extra front bolts in my magic bolt can, I reused the seatbelt anchor bolts as the inside
rears. The only thing I had to get were 2 nuts for the inside rears and two longer bolts for the outer
rears. It was about $6 for the hardware at the local Toyota dealer. I am sure I could have saved
money by going to a hardware store but did not feel like trying a bunch of crap that wouldn't fit.
With the seats two notches from the rear, they can be reclined two notches backwards. Very comfy
compared to my bench, and much more stylish.
Option 2: Installing Stock Seats from Other Vehicles
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In general, any seats physically capable of fitting within your cab are candidates for transplants.
Besides those for which substantial install info is listed below, I've found specific claims (and in some
cases even photos) of transplants involving seats taken from: Acura NSX, Camaro Z28, Chevy S-10,
Honda Accord, Honda Prelude, Nissan Sentra, Pontiac FireBird, Toyota MR2, and Volvo S80.
Once you go outside the Toyota mini-truck family to get your transplant seats, your biggest hassles
will be with the mounts / brackets / sliders. It is fair to say that the mounts beneath the seats will
end up causing you more headaches than the seats themselves. In some cases, you may be able to
graft the other seats onto your stock mounting brackets. In other cases, you may need to modify
the other seats' mounts and use them.
Odds are you'll be doing some custom fabrication / surgery in transplanting seats from other
vehicles. One reason is that such seats will probably have mounting hardware peculiar to their
original vehicle. This means you aren't likely to be able to fall back on simply buying a stock
aftermarket bracket as you can when dealing with (e.g.) Sparco, Corbeau, or Recaro aftermarket
seats. There are cases where this will work - all I'm saying is that you cannot assume it will always
work.
The entries below offer info and pointers to info on transplants of other vehicles' seats into Toyota
Tacomas / pickups. The entries are organized by brand of seats transplanted, and listed
alphabetically by (car) brand name.
Acura Integra Seats
http://www.wildyoats.com/cheap_tricks.htm
This is a very brief writeup about swapping buckets from a 1988 Acura Integra into a Toyota truck
(not clear what year truck).
http://www.yotatech.com/showthread.php?t=36057
A YotaTech post containing a brief summary plus a photo of 1989 Acura Integra seats swapped into
a 1990 Toyota XtraCab.
Honda Civic Seats
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Here at CustomTacos, 3Point4Tacoma writes of a seat swap into his 1996 XtraCab:
The 2 front holes damn near matched. I had to take a hammer to the seat brackets and hammer
them to the right angle. Then, I took a drill and widened the holes on the front brackets. For the
back, I just had to drill 2 new holes and bolt them up since the civic tracks were a little shorter. I
didn't do anything to plug the old holes up other than put the old bolts back in it's place.
Honda CRX Si Seats
In this thread, ToY SpD provides some experiences and photos from his install of CRX Si seats into
his 1994 Regular Cab.
Mitsubishi Eclipse Seats
ENOSHbeatpuppet (96 Tacoma owner) wrote at CustomTacos:

I put some 96 eclipse seats in my truck. The back of the seat is a little lower, but its fine for now.
Bolted 1 in front and 2 in back, w/ homemade brackets. (just flat pieces of metal and made the
seats fit w/ some creativity).
Subaru Seats
COMMENT (YotaTech) from an 82 Toyota truck owner:

I put 87 subaru bucket seats in my 82. I found out that 79-83 bucket seat brackets bolt right up to
the subaru seat no modifying mounting holes. Those seats are way more comfortable then toyota
seats and a lot eaiser to find.
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Toyota 4Runner Seats
Some (but not all) 4Runner seats in some generations will also bolt into your Taco with little or no
major modification required. Typically, you can get 3 of the 4 bolts / holes to line up 'as is'.
4Runner seats are one of the most commonly-cited transplants cited - especially at offroad sites
such as YotaTech and Tacoma Territory. However, there are almost no substantial write-ups on the
transplant process. The most you'll find is illustrated by this comment from a 2004 Taco XtraCab
owner at YotaTech: I got seats out of a 94 or 95 SR5 4-Runner. All but the front inside bolts bolt
right up. They are great.
In October 2004, the following write-up appeared in a pair of postings (by a 'Greavous') to the
Tacoma Territory forum:
I have seats from a 98 limited 4runner and they fit perfectly. They are power and leather and also
match the oak interior like they came in it in 2001. All of the Tacoma seats will swap into any
Tacoma up to 2004. I have no idea what 05 does. My 01 60/40 bench was removed and bolted
straight into a 96 tacoma.
The only Mod that had to be done to the runner seats is the front outer bracket on a runner is kinda
horizontal and the Taco's is turned down almost 90 degrees. I taped off the paint to prevent
damaging/chipping and tapped it over into place with a BFH. Elongate the hole in the bracket with a
1/2 drill bit and bolt it up. I also installed a console which used factory screws at the front and I used
a block riser and some screws into the floor pan to secure the rear.
Here's a pic but I get these things dicked up from time to time. Hope it works.
http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/cmscow@swbell.net/detail?.dir=5282&.dnm=ee17.jpg ...
Well after I posted I recalled a couple things. First and most important is the seat belts. I found that
the latches from the 98's didn't quite click like the originals and transplanted the originals onto the
runner seats. When my bench went into the 96 the same issue arose. The latches just bolt up but if
you have the 01 bench with a folding armrest you have to dig a little to get to them. No biggie but
you need to know about it.
Second thing was wiring the seats. I used a battery charger and was able to power the seats up on
my workbench and determine what needed to get the 12 v. and ground. The ground I ran to the
closest seat mounting bolt. And the 12+ came from an add-a-fuse dooie I got at the Zone. It simply
replaces one of the fuses and has 2 fuse ports (one for the original and one for the new) and a pigtail
hanging off it.
There won't be an armrest with the seats so a console is also needed in my book.
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Toyota Car (Non-Truck) Seats (In General)
Besides other pickup and SUV models in the Toyota family, the next-closest fits are Toyota buckets
from Toyota cars. Known candidates for transplants include: MR2, Camry, Corolla, and Celica. In
the best case, 3 of the 4 mounting holes will line up, and you'll need to improvise to make the fourth
bolt connection.
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Matrix seats into a Tacoma, but
no evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Toyota Camry Seats
http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?p=322738
MikeB's September 2004 report (with photos) talks about transplanting 2001 Camry buckets into his
Regular Cab Tacoma. This was the first documented transplant of Camry buckets into a Taco.
Toyota Celica Seats
Celica seats are the Toyota family seats most commonly mentioned as candidates for transplanting
into street Tacomas. These are also the transplants that have been best documented.
http://www.norcalttora.com/~chris/mods/Celica%20seat%20install/
Two pages of photos about the process of getting Celica seats into a Tacoma. Good illustrations,
but no instructions / commentary to go along with it. (from TTORA Northern California chapter)
http://ttora-ne.net/CT/Celica_Seat_Swap/index.html
Some photos and a few tips for getting Celica seats into a '99 Tacoma XtraCab. Not much in the
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way of detailed instructions or commentary. (from TTORA New England chapter)

VRacer111 (CustomTacos) provides photos and comments about his installation of 2000 Celica
GT seats into his 1998 Tacoma XtraCab. As he summarized the process in a later thread:
For the celica seats you take the floor brackets from the tacoma 60/40 split bench or bucket
seats and put them on the Celica rails. This involves cutting, grinding, adding spacer blocks to the
outside drivers side rail, and welding - but it is so worth the effort to get rid of the horrible stock
seating.
This CustomTacos thread contains good info contributed by multiple people who swapped
Celica seats into their Tacos.
RevHard6's discussion of what it took to get Celica buckets into his 2000 XtraCab Taco.
This includes discussion about how to account for the height difference between the Taco's 60/40
and bucket brackets.
RustStang78's photos and factoids about his installation of '03 Celica seats in his 1996
Regular Cab, using Sparco brackets.
Toyota Corolla Seats
Corolla seats tend to be wider (and hence more accommodating to the larger driver) than Celica
seats. There are multiple claims about, and isolated photos of, Corolla seat installs to be found in
various Toyota truck forums. However, I could locate no write-ups on the install procedure.
Toyota SUV Seats (In General)
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping RAV4 and Sequoia seats into a
Tacoma, but no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
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Toyota Tundra Seats
I've found questions asked concerning the possibility of swapping Tundra seats into a Tacoma, but
no hard evidence that anyone's actually done it.
Volvo Seats
http://ttora-ne.new/newsite/new_england_ttora_volvo_seat_swa.htm
This is a write-up on putting 2000 Volvo S40 buckets into a 2002 Tacoma Double Cab. It includes a
good set of install photos, but not much in the way of instructions. (from TTORA New England
chapter)
Volvo seats are often mentioned as candidates for transplants. This one NE TTORA write-up is the
only one I can find explaining how anyone's actually done it.

Seat Installations II: New Aftermarket Seats
By: Enola Gaia
In recent years, Toyota has consistently been awarded high marks by J D Power and Associates for
their seating. These awards have been based more on rated quality of the seats (as objects) than
these seats' quality at cradling the riders. In fact, the stock Toyota seats are common objects of
complaint among Taco owners. As a result, there are often questions about installing alternative
seats in Tacos.
This file documents some information about aftermarket seat installation options and issues, based
on experiences and products documented on the Web. This is not a FAQ about the seats themselves
- it is a summary set of pointers to info on installations and install-related data.
NOTE: For information about mounting seats from other vehicles into your Tacoma, see the related
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tech article Seat Installations I.
Some Basics / Background
If you want to install new aftermarket seats, you'll face more problems with the mounts / brackets /
sliders and the installation procedure than with the seat selection itself. Some aftermarket seat
manufacturers (e.g., Sparco, Recaro) offer mounting brackets for installing their products in a variety
of vehicle models. However, Toyota Tacomas are not one of the more commonly-offered models.
This means that installing aftermarket seats can involve as much improvisation as transplanting
seats from other vehicles.
A lot of confusion relates to exactly what mounting hardware is necessary. Here are some basic
facts you need to know...
What stock mounting hardware is used in Tacomas?
Stock Toyota truck seat mounts typically are made up of two individual pieces which jointly serve as
both (a) the base connecting the seat assembly to the floor and (b) the adjustable sliding tracks that
permit the seats to be moved forward and backward. These pieces are usually separate (left and
right for a given seat), and they may not be interconnected except by the structure of the seat itself.
How big a deal are the brackets and sliders?
Selecting and obtaining the seats is the easy part... Getting them mounted into your truck is the
part that'll have you tearing your hair out. There are countless postings in car and truck forums
illustrating how owners screwed themselves by not giving proper consideration to installation
matters when acquiring cool new seats.
Another factor is cost. To completely replace your Toyota factory mounting hardware will require a
base and sliders. Depending on the manufacturer and vendor, this can run you anywhere from
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around $80 to $200 per seat. For lower- and mid-range seats, the cost of installation hardware can
become a sizeable portion of the overall price. Do your homework up front, and you won't get
blindsided...
Isn't there just one general kind of mounting arrangement?
No, there's not.
There are 2 different ways in which most aftermarket street seats are designed to be attached to
their mounts. The more common type for street-style seats is a bottom mount arrangement. This
means that the seat's underside is designed to attach to a bracket or slider below. The other type is
a side mount arrangement, in which the seat is supposed to attach to mounting brackets on either
side of the seat frame. Side mounts are mainly used for racing-style seats with a rigid shell.
In general, if you want the seats to slide forward and backward, you will want a bottom mount
arrangement. Either bottom mounts or side mounts can be used if you want a static seat position
(no sliding). Side mounts are pretty much limited to static seat positioning.
You will need to be clear about the mounting arrangement that your new seats are designed for.
Usually, aftermarket seats are designed for either side or bottom mounting. There are rare
examples (of racing-style seats or shells) where you can use either a side or bottom mount.
These are not the only mounting arrangements that you may encounter. For serious off-road
purposes, there are some seats which are designed to be mounted using a suspension pedestal or
even a rigid platform attached to the cab wall or a roll cage.
What mounting hardware is offered in the aftermarket?
The mounting hardware offered by aftermarket suppliers can vary. In most cases, however, there
will be two distinct pieces or units available to replace the functionality of the stock Toyota mounts:
Base / Bracket
When someone refers to a 'base', 'bracket', or 'mounting bracket', they usually mean a rigid metal
frame that bolts to the vehicle floor and provides a foundation onto which the seat is itself fastened.
In other words, the 'bracket' is usually just the fixed 'stand' onto which a seat can be attached. By
itself, a 'bracket' doesn't necessarily give you the ability to slide the seat backward and forward.
The most common brackets are rectangular metal frames with bolt holes configured to match the
vehicle's interior mounting scheme.
NOTE:Tacoma aftermarket brackets are of the 'tabbed' variety. This means that the bolt holes are in
the ends of 'tabs' extending from the main part of the bracket assembly. In most cases, aftermarket
brackets are single pieces that replace the separate base elements that make up the stock Tacoma
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seat mounts.
Slider
When someone refers to a 'slider', they usually mean a separate frame or structure that sits
between the seat base and the seat. The slider has tracks permitting movement - allowing the seat
to go backward and forward relative to the base. By itself, a 'slider' doesn't give you the ability to
attach the seat to the floor. By the same token, the slider has to fit onto the base and the seat.
You should be careful to figure out whether you want / need 'brackets', 'sliders', or both. In some
cases, sliders aren't an option, because the manufacturer has designed its seats for fixed
positioning. In some cases, sliders and brackets are combined and sold as single retail items. In
some cases, retailers only list brackets and never mention sliders (or vice versa). Even the
manufacturers themselves contribute to the confusion. Some of their websites list both brackets
and sliders together, while others hide one or the other (almost always the sliders) under a separate
'Accessories' category.
Can't I just get by with 'universal' hardware?

There's no such thing as a single truly 'universal' mount! There are multiple kinds of brackets (e.g.,
'flat' versus 'tabbed'), and no single bracket can be expected to work for all vehicles. The Toyota
Tacoma floor is uniquely contoured, and 'universal brackets' are not likely to work without significant
modification or fabbing. 'Universal' sliders will have to fit both the seat and the mounting bracket,
so they are another component that may need to be modified to get the install done. Finally,
different manufacturers' seats vary in their bottom structure and mounting points. This means that
whatever you're fastening to them (whether bracket or slider) may not always fit.
There may be a slider or a bracket that is 'universal' for a specific set of seats from a specific
manufacturer (or a group of manufacturers all of whose seats are closely similar), but nothing that's
'universal' for all vehicles. Separate sliders can be 'universal' only within the limits of particular
seats and / or brackets. Furthermore, there's nothing that's 'universal' to all Toyota trucks. Cab
bolt configurations are different for single bench seats versus the 60/40 split benches / buckets, and
pre-Tacos are different from Tacos.
In other words, the only thing guaranteed to be 'universal' is the hassle involved in mixing 'n'
matching bases, sliders, and so forth to get your particular seats in your specific truck.
Who can I turn to?
Naturally, the only way to assure 'universal installations' is to fab the mounts yourself. Unless you
are comfortable with DIY surgery, you may want to check with a specialty shop to see if they can
fabricate something to save you time and hassle. Some alternatives are:
Wedge Engineering in Long Beach CA (http://wedgeengineering.net) specializes in fabricating seat
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brackets.
Speedware Motorsports in Redmond WA (http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com) does custom

installations, and they offer custom bracket fabrication services.
Your friendly local metal fabrication shop can probably make or modify brackets to serve your needs.
Installing New Aftermarket Seats
The remainder of this tech article offers pointers to info on installing new aftermarket seats. There
are many manufacturers and brand names of aftermarket seats, ranging from mass market knockoffs to high-end ergonomic and professional racing models. The listings will be limited to
information on known installations and pointers to install-related resources offered by the bestknown manufacturers. The entries are listed in alphabetical order by manufacturer name.
Beard Seats
Beard (a subsidiary of Redart) makes suspension seats that are popular with hardcore off-roaders.
As such, their seats are more or less a distinct species from the usual racing and / or sports seats on
the market.
Beard has recently introduced a line of Toyota mounting kits as follows:
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Toyota '95-'02 Tacoma Std. & Crew cab
Because the Beard seats are designed for rough off-road duty, they are not as adjustable as other
seats. On the other hand, their bucket designs are roomier than the racing-style buckets offered by
others. Because these are suspension seats, you need to know that they tend to mount 'taller' than
sport or racing seats (i.e., you'll probably be sitting higher than in your stock seats). Though they
originally designed for fixed installation, Beard now offers sliders for their seats.
NOTE: These suspension seats' mounting arrangements are quite distinct from the usual mounts.
You may need to do some advance research to make sure what's involved.
Beard Install (Custom-Built)
http://www.fourwheeler.com/projectbuild/129_0211_priz/
This is a Four Wheeler Magazine writeup on the installation of custom Beard buckets into their 40th
Anniversary Tacoma Double Cab. It provides some photos and some brief comments.
Beard install (Super-Style Racing Model)
http://www.jordansrealm.com/121212beard.htm
This is a pretty good overview (with photos) of what's necessary to install the Beard Super Styles in
a Tacoma XtraCab. It was compiled by the Taco's owner.
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Corbeau Seats
Corbeau makes a series of street and racing bucket seats. Corbeau is one of the few manufacturers
to offer factory mounting hardware for installing them in Toyota trucks.
The Corbeau Master Bracket Guide lists the following brackets for Toyota pickups:
PICKUP 76-78
PICKUP 79-83
Driver = C22028 / Passenger = C22028
PICKUP 84-88
PICKUP 89-95 (BENCH)
PICKUP 89-95 (BUCKET)
TACOMA (BENCH 60/40) 95+

Driver = E1104T / Passenger = E1105T
TACOMA (BENCH) 95+
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Corbeau Seat Install (A4's)
ToyComa gives some basics on his install of Corbeau A4's in a Regular Cab.
'eBay' Racing-Style Seats
This is admittedly a 'catch-all' category. A variety of sellers are offering multiple different kinds of
'racing seats' on eBay. These are no-brand-name seats, and it's anybody's guess who made them or
how good they are. Some of these offerings carry 'TRD' emblems or stitch-ons, even though it's
pretty obvious Toyota Racing Development had nothing to do with their design or manufacture.
If you prowl through enough of the listings, it becomes apparent that there is some duplication
among the seats. They appear to have a 'family resemblance' to branded seats offered by (e.g.)
APC and other retailers, but it's impossible to pin down a firm ID.
Some of these seats are offered with 'universal brackets' or 'universal sliders'. Buyer beware - as
mentioned above, there's no such thing. You'll be needing to do some form of improvisation /
fabbing / modding to get these seats into your truck.
eBay 'TRD' Seat Install (Tacoma Territory, Oct. 2004)
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http://forums.delphiforums.com/tacomaterritory/messages?msg=119611.16
Tacoma Territory subscriber toyotanas wrote:
... I purchased them off Ebay and thought I was up shit creek without a paddle. Well I managed to
modify a seat bracket for the corbeau seats, which I bought off truckperformance.com. When I got
the bracket which fits in the original holes perfectly I just had to drill 4 new holes and I was good to
go because the seat came with universal sliders. ...
Notice that toyotanas ended up buying Corbeau seat brackets to modify for his installation.
Knig Seats
NOTE:Technically, the name is 'Knig'. You'll often find them cited as 'Konig' or 'Koenig'. They
apparently gave up and use the Anglicized spelling for their U.S. subsidiary's title.
Koenig USA is the North American retail representative for this European manufacturer of highquality racing and ergonomic seats. If you're interested in sophisticated ergonomic seating, Knig is
the only real competition Recaro has in that market segment.
Information on Knig seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. It is clear, however, that
installation involves one or two items per seat:
A Knig seat adapter (base / bracket) for the given vehicle (required)
A Knig slider unit (optional)
Koenig USA doesn't offer a listing of available brackets on their website. In a summer 2004
telephone contact, Koenig USA advised me they do have a stock adapter for the 1995 - 2004
Tacomas.
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MasterCraft Seats
MasterCraft makes a series of serious racing bucket seats. They are highly regarded in some circles,
but they're not commonly mentioned as candidates for installation in Toyota trucks. MasterCraft's
own website is very limited, and it's not a good source of data on their products. You can find out
more by prowling vendor sites.
Once such vendor - Macromotive - lists the following mounting apparatus for 2000 - 2002 Tacomas:
#6310Dr = Driver Side mounting kit

#6310Pass = Passenger Side mounting kit
#6030 = Seat Slider (required for each seat)
NOTE: No, I don't know for sure whether these are MasterCraft's own model numbers.
NOTE: This listing for '2000 - 2002' Tacomas was the only confirmed Toyota truck mounting
hardware I could locate. I don't know for sure what MasterCraft may offer for other Toyota truck
models / years.
MOMO Seats
MOMO USA offers a series of racing-style bucket seats. However, the only mounting hardware they
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offer are 'base slides' (sliders). These slides are not vehicle-specific, so it would appear they are to
be grafted onto an existing or fabricated base or bracket during installation.
I've seen isolated references to MOMO seats being considered for installation into Tacomas, but no
hard evidence of it having been done.
Recaro Seats
Recaro is perhaps the most prestigious name in vehicle seating, offering both racing and ergonomic
products. Information on these products can be obtained at their North American subsidiary and
their Main (German) websites.
Information on Recaro seat installation requirements is sparse on the Web. There are isolated
photos of Recaro seats installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but I've been unable to find any
detailed write-ups on the installation procedures used. There are, however, detailed write-ups to be
found on the Web in forums dedicated to other makes of cars such as BMW and VW.
Installing Recaro seats involves one or two items per seat:
A mounting bracket for the given vehicle (required)

A Recaro slider unit (optional)
Recaro themselves only offer the following brackets / bases for Toyota (pre-Taco) trucks:
Pickup 2-4 WD Bucket 84 - 88

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Pickup 4 WD Extended Cab Bench and Bucket 89 - 94

Pickup 2WD Bucket or Bucket 89 - 94

In late summer 2004 I called Recaro Customer Service to ask about brackets for installing Recaros
into a 2004 Tacoma. They referred me to Wedge Engineering. Wedge was able to get me the
bracket in one week (using their 'rush order' option).
Recaro offers two types of sliders. One is a fixed / basic model. For not that much more, you can
get a 'height-adjustable' model. This one has three different sets of mounting holes you can use to
vary the height of the slider when you attach it to the base / bracket.
Sparco Seats
Sparco makes a series of racing-style bucket seats, and they're one of the few manufacturers to
offer the mounting hardware for installing them in our trucks.
Toyota pickups and Tacomas require a 'tabbed' mounting base - one that is suspended on vertical or
angled 'tab' feet. Mounting Sparco seats requires 4 items per seat:
A
A
A
A
Sparco
Sparco
Sparco
Sparco
base unit (in our case, a 500-series base)

500 series adapter (for fitting)
slider unit (Sparco part number 00493)
hardware kit (part number 50001), or equivalent
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NOTE: There have been some complaints that the number of separate components involved in
Sparco's mounting scheme leads to higher retail costs for using their seats. Be careful to take this
into consideration...
Of these, it is the base unit which is model-specific. As of October 2004, Sparco listed the following
base units for sale:

5001102 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L BENCH
5001103 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R BENCH
5001104 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA L OEM BUCKET
5001105 BASE TOYOTA TACOMA R OEM BUCKET
Sparco offers a PDF file with tabbed base seat installation instructions (including a diagram of the
mounting apparatus) at:
http://www.sparcousa.com/SparcoTabbedBaseSeatInstructions.pdf
Sparco Seat Install
http://www.deepstaged.net/Sparco.htm
This is a summary description of the process for installing Sparco buckets to replace a bench seat in
a Regular Cab Tacoma (exact model year unknown). Hot links lead to photos for many of the steps.
Speedware Motorsports Brackets
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Speedware Motorsports of Redmond WA is a retail representative for both Recaro and Sparco seats.
They offer a full line of Recaro and Sparco factory mounting hardware. Their mounting hardware
offerings can be reviewed at http://www.speedwaremotorsports.com/seat/hardware.asp.
Speedware offers their own aluminum seat side mounts for all Recaro and Sparco side mount race
seats. Speedware's own seat side mounts have more side and bottom adjustments than any other
side mount option, and they're available in four colors.
In addition, Speedware offers custom seat installations and custom seat mounting hardware. They
claim, Our engineers can design and fabricate any type of seat bracket for any type of vehicle to
insure your custom seat is a perfect fit.
Tenzo (Tenzo-R) Seats
Tenzo Racing Sports manufactures a line of racing-style seats. These are usually referred to by the
names 'Tenzo' or 'Tenzo-R'.
They offer custom brackets and sliders for installing their products. These items must be purchased
separately, and Tenzo claims they're available 'for most cars'. However, I found no trace of any
Tenzo brackets being available for Toyota trucks. If you want to install Tenzo seats, you're probably
looking at fabrication to attach Tenzo's 'universal sliders' onto either your (modified) stock mounts or
a third-party Toyota truck base (e.g., Wedge, Sparco, Corbeau...).
NOTE: The Tenzo brackets illustrated at vendors' sites look suspiciously like Wedge Engineering or
maybe Corbeau products. I don't know one way or the other, but I suspect one of these other
companies makes the brackets for Tenzo.
I've found isolated references to Tenzo seats having been installed in Toyota pickups / Tacomas, but
no substanital information on the installations.
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Wedge Engineering Brackets
Wedge Engineering of Long Beach, CA has decades of experience in designing and fabricating seat
mounting brackets for OEM and aftermarket installations. When I called Recaro and asked for a
bracket application (2004 Tacoma) they couldn't handle, they referred me to Wedge. Wedge offers
a full line of brackets designed to fit Toyota pickups / Tacomas. If your application is peculiar,
Wedge can also custom fabricate brackets for your project.
As of October 2004 (Wedge's 2002 bracket listing), Wedge offers the following model numbers /
brackets for our trucks:
76 - + PICKUP
79 - 83 PICKUP
84 - 88 PICKUP
89 - 95 PICKUP
89 - 94 PICKUP
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95 - 99 TACOMA OEM BENCH

95 - 99 TACOMA OEM 60-40 SPLIT BENCH & BUCKETS

NOTE: If you compare the listings here, you'll see that many of the manufacturers' model numbers
follow the Wedge Engineering numbering scheme. I don't know whether this means that Wedge
makes their brackets for them, but I wouldn't be surprised if that were the case.

Below is a chart showing the size and location of stock speakers in Tacoma Regular Cabs, Extended
Cabs, and Double Cabs:
1995-2000
Front
Rear
Regular Cab
6.5
N/A
Extended Cab
6.5
6.75 (or 6.5s)
2001-up
Front
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Rear
Regular Cab
6x8
N/A
Extended Cab
6x8
6x8
Double Cab
6x8
6x8
Toggled Door Buzzer
By: Randy Hobart

You're cleaning your truck at the car wash and you want to listen to the stereo
while you're working on the interior... but the door chime isn't quite flattering
to your tunes. For whatever reason, you would like to have your keys in the ignition
while your door is open, but you want the door chime to JUST STOP!!! Here's an easy
little fix that won't completely disable your door switch. Just add a toggle switch
in-line to your door button.
Adding a toggle switch is simple since the door button is simply a one-wire switch
that completes the circuit when the door is opened.
1
2
2
2
small toggle switch

feet of 18 ga. electrical wire
female wire connectors
wire butt connectors
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Tools Needed:
Phillips head screwdriver
10 mm nut driver / socket
Wire Cutters
Procedure:
I stopped by AutoZone and picked up a tiny toggle switch. This particular one
uses a 1/2 x 3/4 opening. There is a vast array of toggle switches available your selection may vary.
Cut 2 pieces of 18 ga. wire into 12 inch lengths. Crimp female connectors to one
end of each of the wires. Depending on your mounting location, you might wish to
have longer wires.
Connect one wire to the ground prong of the toggle switch and the other wire to one of the
power prongs. (at this point, it doesn't matter which of the 2 power prongs, either
one will work the same)
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Remove the door sill trim, kick panel, and lower dash panel.
I chose to to mount my toggle switch just inside my fuse access panel. The tiny
toggle switch just happened to fit perfectly onto the side of the plastic dash frame.
Locate the door switch wiring. You may have to move components out of the way
to access these wires. I had to remove the alarm module.
The door switch wire is a
red wire coming out of the body panel, butt-connected to a small green wire.
Cut the green wire, leaving enough wire
at each end to attach a new butt-connector.
Route the 2 new wires to the spliced green wire. Use butt-connectors to attach the
ends of the new wires. It does not matter which end matches up to the green wire ends.
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Replace all of the dash components and trim pieces.

With the door open, insert your keys and toggle the switch. If all was completed properly, the key
buzzer will toggle on and off with the switch.
The inevitable downside to this toggle switch is that it also disables the dome light. It would also be
possible to add a toggle switch for the passenger door(s). But the key buzzer is only triggered by the
driver's door.
Now you have the option of turning the buzzer off. Just be sure not to lock your
keys in your truck!

Here are the instructions for installing a Toyota VIP (RS3200) keyless/security system. These
instructions were written for 2004 Tacomas and may not be applicable to other model years.

This is a guide written by user Bhavesh to install/upgrade the rear view mirror in 95.5-2004 non-SR5
trucks to the "deluxe" mirror with map lights.
Tools and Other Items Needed:
- two conductor wire
- wire cutters
- scissors
- phillips head screwdriver
- electrical tape or inline butt connectors
- the map lights from an SR5 Tacoma
- soldering iron (optional)
1. The first thing to do is take out your original mirror. Remove the cover to expose the
screws and remove them with your philips head screwdriver
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2. The new maplights take up more area than the old mirror and should already have
recesses in the roof's sheet metal to accommodate them. Unfortunately, the headliner is not pre-cut,
so first check the roof's sheet metal for the appropriate clearance, then cut out your headliner while
test fitting the maplights until it fits. I was eyeballing the cuts, so to make sure I didn't over-shoot it,
I just made small slits in the headliner until I had the right size.
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3. Step 3 is optional if your maplights already have TWO wires coming out of the connector.
If it has two wires, then no additional modification is necessary. If it only has one wire (and you
would like the maplights to turn on with the door), then you need to attach a wire to the ground side
of the bulbs.
I used the solder points on the switch as the connection to the ground side of the bulbs. So I
soldered one wire in parallel between the switch terminals, and soldered a 2nd wire coming off one
of those terminals and left it hanging on the backside of the maplights. Here is a picture of the
completed wiring:
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again, use of a soldering iron is optional. As long as you connect a wire to the bulb grounds,
then you can still add a "door ground" to a set of map lights that only has one wire coming out of the
back
Also, I lost my connector, so I squeezed a spade lug until it would stay snug on the pin
if you do add your own wires, MAKE SURE you know which wire is your ground, and which wires is
your +12 constant lead
4. Running the wires: this part concerned me because I didn't know how I would get a wire
past the metal supports for the headliner. Fortunately, they bend easily and can be negotiated to
snake a wire through.
So I just took a wire coat hanger, straightened it out, and started snaking it straight towards the
front of the truck until I hit one of the headliner support bars. When this happened, I reached my
hand through the headliner (where the dome light used to be) and pushed down on the headliner
until the bar bent down from the roof, and allowed the coat hanger through. I repeated this method
until I had the coat hanger coming out of the mirror hole and the dome light hole to get a wire
through, I just tied it to one end of the coat hanger, and slowly pulled it through. Make sure you use
a 2-conductor wire.
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5. The next part was attaching your wires to the dome light. I didn't bother with the
soldering iron because the metal tabs were easily accessible, so I just wrapped the constant +12
wire around the bulb terminal, and the "door ground" wire around one of the pins where the
connector plugs in
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6. The last step is attaching your +12 lead to your map light wire, and the "door ground"
lead to the wire you connected to your bulb grounds. Note that if your map lights came with a 2-pin
connector, then that's where you connect your "door ground" lead to.
Re-mount your new map light, and test it out!
Results: I am very happy with them as there is more lighting in the front. Unfortunately Toyota uses
rinky dink bulbs in their taco lighting, so it wasn't a difference of day and night. Instead, it adds more
light that faces backwards, and makes the interior bright enough that you're not rummaging for
extra light.
Update: The map lights do make a big difference...when I'm trying to read something at night, and I
have both the dome light, and the map lights on, I have no trouble because it's pretty bright in there
By: AFP520
Here's a quick install demonstration for a Nu Image white face climate control panel.
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Here is the stock control panel compared to the new panel.

The panel is like an adhesive sticker, but it does not mount over the factory panel.
The factory black piece is simply mounted with adhesive backing. Use a small flathead screwdriver
to pop it out a bit and it comes right off.
Carefully and slowly apply the new white face control panel.
There you have it... a new white face climate control panel.
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Exterior/Body Tech
2005+ Clear Corners

By: Blangkang (with minor edits by Jeff)
For the all of the 05+ owners out there who hate those ugly orange and dull yellow reflectors, here's
a safe way to remove them and make it a very clean looking headlight. Put aside about 2 hours to
do this because you want to take your time and not rush this.
Tools needed:
- Basic Oven
- Phillips head screw driver
- 10mm socket with wrench
First, you need to start with the removal of the stock grill. It's pretty simple: start by removing the
2 top 10mm bolts on the stock grill. Then, use a flat head screwdriver to pop up the black gourmets
that are also on top of the grill. The grill will pull straight up and now that is out of the way. Start
removing all fasteners and 10 mm bolts that are attached to the headlights and grill. You can avoid
lowering the bumper which is a PITA and get to the last headlight bolts from under the truck. You
need to reach up and get the last bolt with a 10mm wrench.
With the headlights out of the truck, you are ready to crack open the housing. Remove all of the
bulbs, plastic caps, and rubber housing behind the H4 bulb, and the 3 hex screws. While you're
doing this, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Before putting in the headlight, TURN OFF OVEN.
DO NOT put headlight directly on top of the oven shelf. Place the headlight onto a piece of
cardboard. A lid from a ream of paper works well.
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After 6 minutes, take it out and start to work the lens off with a flat head screw driver. As a tip start
at one end and then use your hands to open the headlight because if a screwdriver is used harshly
you will see the marks.
When the headlight is out of the oven, set the temperature to 450 degrees. You might have to do
this more than once to get the whole lens off. If you can't get the cover completely off, TURN OFF
the oven again and cook it for another 2 minutes. Repeat until complete.
Now that you have the headlight open, you will need to place the lens on a soft surface to make sure
you dont scratch it up. Now that you have the lens face down, remove the 2 hex screws to gain
access to the orange reflectors. Now simply remove the orange and yellow reflectors and start
putting the housings back together.
Note: Make sure you clean all the parts well before putting everything back together because
nobody likes finger prints, and trust me they will show.
**Tip**: Goo B Gone works great for removing the caulking from the lens if you get smears.
Now that you have reassembled the headlight, throw it back in the oven at 450 degrees and let sit
for about 2 minutes. This will allow you to press the housing back together and still reuse the factory
caulking.
Remove it from the oven and let it sit for about 10 minutes to cool. Once the housing is cool, apply
GE Silicone 2 for windows and doors around the seams. Now, simply re-install the headlight onto the
truck and you're done.
You can also use the Nissan culking which is nice because you can remove it. It will set you back
around $40.
Also a Big thanks to Eyeven for the help and pics.

Here's a couple photos of the final product:
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Here are the instructions for installing a trailer wiring harness on a 2005+ Tacoma. It is
recommended that you install the tow hitch before installing the harness.

Here are the instructions for installing a tow hitch on a 2005+ Tacoma.

Here are the instructions for installing a Pop & Lock tailgate lock for 1995.5-2004 Tacomas.

By: 00yota4x4 (with minor edits by Jeff)
Many custom vehicle enthusiasts in recent years have begun painting their headlight housings
black. After all, what looks good on a BMW or Mazda looks good on other vehicles, right? Below is a
quick write-up on painting your 2005+ Tacoma headlights black for that "euro" look. This article
applies to all 05+ Tacomas including 4x4s and X-Runners.
Tools needed:
- A conventional oven, cookie sheet, cardboard
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- Black spray paint (I used Krylon Fusion)

- Socket set
First, you must take the headlights out. You will need to remove the grill and the small body-colored
piece below the lights. This should be very easy.
There are 4 bolts for the headlights. 2 are up top, 1 is at the bottom inside corner. The bumper
hides it a little but you can get it out. The 4th must be accessed from under. As you see in the pic is
where the 4th bolt is
Once the lights are out, remove everything off of them. All of the plastic pieces, all of the lights and
rubber things and 3 hex screws must be removed. Make sure not to mess with the adjustment
knobs. I took off the top weather strip, but others say you can leave it on.
Once you have stripped the headlight housings, it's time to bake them in the oven so that the lens
can be easily removed. They must be done one at a time. Place each headlight on a cookie sheet
with foil or a peice of cardboard to prevent the headlight from melting against the cookie sheet.
As far as temperature, I found that 305 degrees for about 9 minutes works well. Remember, preheat
the oven and then once you put the light in there, turn the oven off. While baking try to avoid
opening the oven to check on the light. This will prolong the heating process.
At this time and temperature, the lens should pry apart from the housing on the first try. Just take
your time and don't rush anything. This is not something that just peels apart super easy. I didn't
use any tools. I just used my hands and started in a corner where its easy to grab both parts. I also
had a buddy helping me pry it apart slowly.
Once apart, remove the 2 hex screws in the plastic piece in the lens. Pull out the bezel. Pop out the
orange marker and the turn signal lens.
I used Krylon Fusion paint. No primer is needed and its designed to bond to plastic and is pretty
strong from what I've read.
To prep the area to paint, I used a scotch brite pad to scuff it up a little bit just to take a little extra
measure. Then, I cleaned it off with glass cleaner. I wore gloves so I would not get any oils back on
the surface.
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Paint away and take your time and don't put on thick coats. It took me about 25 minutes per
headlight to paint it using light coats. This will help prevent runs and drips.
After painting, let each one dry for about 20 minutes.

I still didn't touch the painted surface and I carried them from behind while moving them. Also, be
VERY CAREFUL putting the marker lights back in, if you choose to do so. The paint is not fully chipresistant for 7 days.
Next, put the 2 pieces back in the oven at 300 degrees for 5 minutes to get the caulk soft. I also
used silicone window/door to put in the seam of the housing. Then, I pressed it back together
tightly. put the hex screws in and popped the tabs in place. After that I put another bead of silicone
all the way around the seams again.
Now, install the headlight assembly back into the truck. Also, that 4th bolt that is underneath:
SCREW IT. I still haven't put it back in and the light does not budge with 3 bolts.
I hope everyone that tries it has a good outcome. Just take your time. It took me about 4 hours.
Below is a before/after photo:

By: D

Here's a tip to convert your corner lights to blinkers.
First, get Ford 1157 sockets with a ground tap and use a dremel tool to make the opening bigger.
Next, slap in the 1157 socket and secure all around it with
silicon sealant. Tap the hi current (blinker) to the bumper light's power wire with T taps, then tap
the steady to the original parking lights that were existing in the corners.
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Ground the tab and you have useful blinking corners.
By: Jeff Pollard
<img align=right vspace=5 hspace=8 border=1 width=300 src=files/95bumper/before_after.jpg>

In order to successfully complete this conversion you'll need the following parts:
95-97 4x4 Tacoma bumper and valance (Genuine Toyota Parts are HIGHLY recommended - Chrome
bumper is Toyota part #52101-04080)
Right and left front bumper brackets for 95-97 4x4 Tacoma (Toyota part #'s: 52011-AD010 and 5012AD010)
Right and left side bumper brackets for 95-97 4x4 Tacoma (Toyota part #'s: 52145-35020 and
52146-35020)
8 Small (7/16-ish) bolts, washers, and nuts to attach valance to bumper
You'll also need these tools:

Socket set with 12mm, 14mm, 10mm, and 17mm sockets
Screwdriver
Step 1: First, you'll need to remove your turn signal assemblies from your factory bumper with a
phillips head screwdriver. Keep these handy, you'll use them with your new setup. Next, remove
the stock 2wd Tacoma bumper. It is held on by six bolts: (4) 14 mm bolts on the front bumper
brackets, and (2) 12mm nuts on the side valance in front of the inside valance. I suggest using a
Haynes manual for reference on disassembly. You'll also find that the valance is secured to the
frame underneath by some plastic fasteners. I basically had to break these fasteners to free my
valance. Your mileage may vary.
Step 2: Next, remove the front frame crossmember. This MUST be removed in order for your new
valance to install correctly. It is attached to your frame by 2 17mm bolts, one on each side. They
will be torq'ed tight and may be difficult to pop loose. Once the crossmember was removed, I
threaded the two 17mm bolts back into the holes so that I wouldn't lose them in my toolbox and to
help keep rust out of the holes.<img border=1 width=250 src=files/95bumper/2.jpg>
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Step 3: Attach new valance to new bumper. The valance I purchased did not come with any
hardware to attach the bumper to the valance, so I fabricated one. The bumper and valance have
corresponding holes to bolt the two together, so I purchased 8 small bolts, washers, and nuts to
attach them. I have seen people attach the two with zip ties, but I recommend bolting the two
together.

Step 4: Next, attach the 4x4 front bumper brackets onto the frame with the 14mm bolts that you
removed in step 1. I would recommend leaving these bolts a little loose for fitment.
Step 5: Attach 4x4 bumper and valance to front 4x4 brackets using the 12mm nuts removed in step
1.
Step 6: Remove side bracket bushings and nuts from removed factory 2wd bumper. Use the
bushings and nuts to attach the new side brackets to the new valance. Unless you already have 4x4
fenders, you may need to use a little persuasive force to get everything to line up so you can tighten
the nuts.
Step 7: Screw in your turn signals in their new location in your 4x4 valance.
Step 8: Depending on your state, attach your front license plate. Step back and admire your handy
work. Keep in mind that if you don't have 4x4 fenders, the bumper may stick out wider than your
fenders on the sides. Installing 4x4 fenders will make this look more normal.<img border=1
width=250 src=files/95bumper/8.jpg>
By: Travis Bedel
In order to successfully complete this conversion you'll need:

Socket wrench 14mm deep socket (for bumpers and brackets)
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Power drill
Drill bits
13mm deep socket (for 4runner bracket removal)

12mm deep socket (for bumper removal and bracket removal)
Step 1: Remove the Tacoma bumper. It is held on by six bolts: (4) 14 mm bolts on the front
bumper brackets, and (2) 12mm nuts on the side valance in front of the inside valance. I suggest
using a Haynes manual for reference on disassembly.

Red circles indicate bumper bracket location
Close-up of front bumper bracket after removal
Side bracket mounting location
Step 2: Prepare 4Runner bumper for installation. This is a view of the rear of the 4runner bumper
lights. The Tacoma 1156 bulbs are too big to fit into the smaller 4runner bumper lights holes, so
modifications must be made. <img border=1 src=files/4runner_bumper/5.jpg>

Remove the 4runner bumper lights. This is where you use your unibit or a small knife to cut out a
larger hole for the Tacoma light bulb and harness to fit and lock into. Be careful not to cut the hole
out so large that the bulb wont lock into place.
This is what your bumper lights look like with the Tacoma bulb and harness installed. Repeat with
other signal.<img border=1 width=275 src=files/4runner_bumper/7.jpg>
<img border=1 width=250 src=files/4runner_bumper/8.jpg>Step 3: Drill a new hole in each of your

Tacoma brackets so they attach to the 4Runner bumper. The bracket on top is a 4Runner bracket
and on bottom is a Tacoma bracket. Notice how the holes on the 4Runner bumper are spaced
further apart than on the Tacoma. A new hole must be drilled.
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The circled area shows the holes where the brackets bolt onto the bumpers, and the yellow dot
shows where a new hole must be drilled into the Tacoma bracket. Make sure that you drill in the
correct spot as drilling more than one hole will make the bracket lose its structural integrity.<img
border=1 width=250 src=files/4runner_bumper/9.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/4runner_bumper/11.jpg>Step 4: Bolt your newly-drilled Tacoma brackets

onto the 4Runner bumper.
Step 8: Now this is where the other person helps, have them hold the bumper in place while you
line up the brackets and bolt the 4Runner bumper on to the Taco using the (4) 14mm bolts. I did not
use the 12mm nuts from earlier. Step back and admire your handy work.<img border=1
src=files/4runner_bumper/12.jpg>

By: Jeff Pollard (Photographer: Olivia Lewis)
Tools needed:
- Needlenose plyers
- A rag or t-shirt
Parts needed:
- An aftermarket antenna of your choice
- An import antenna adaptor (Trenz Part # 1010-I1) (View close-up photo)
Installation:
First, use the needlenose plyers to unscrew the factory antenna. At the base of the antenna, you
will notice that the antenna is rather flat. If you are worried about damaging your factory antenna,
use a rag or t-shirt to protect it.
Next, thread the import adaptor into your new antenna. Make sure it is tightly fastened.
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Finally, thread the new antenna with adaptor into the factory antenna socket. Tighten the new
antenna down with the needlenose plyers (and a rag or t-shirt) to protect the antenna.
<img border=1 src=files/antenna/1_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/2_tn.jpg><img

border=1 src=files/antenna
/3_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/4_tn.jpg><img border=1 src=files/antenna/5_tn.jpg>
Here are some links to companies that sell aftermarket antennas:
Godfather Customs
Fender Bender Intl. (FBI)
Stylin Concepts
Street Beat

By: Dirk
(Editor's note: This modification is necessary for enthusiasts who wish to shave their door handles
for a smoother appearance)
Step 1: Remove door panel and pull back plastic to reach to door latch and lock assembly. <img
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper2.jpg>Step 2: Remove all

levers that connect to the assembly and remove the two 10mm bolts that hold the door handle on.
Step 3: To take out the latch remove the 3 screws holding in place on the inside door jamb.<img
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper4.jpg>Step 4: Next
remove the 10mm bolt at near the bottom of the door. This is the window regulater track, the latch
cover is spot welded to this and just pull the track until you can pull the latch out of position.
Step 5: Now with the latch out , remove the lever arm that was connected to the door handle.<img
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper6.jpg>Step 6: Now with the
arm removed, lasso the solenoid cable around the arm on the latch and adjust the cable until the
solenoid clears the regulater track.(Just make a guess by holding the latch up to the door and adlust
the cable until you think the solenoid is going to clear the track)
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Step 7: Now drill your holes for the solenoid mounting bracket and mount the sloenoid as shown in
the photo.<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/door_solenoids/popper7.jpg>
This is the best way I have found to mount the solenoid and still allow you roll the window all the
way down. It also has more leverage on the latch spring, which means the solenoid doesn't have to
pull as hard. The kit I used for the solenoids was DEI's Trunk Release solenoid and wired it up to my
Viper Alarm.
By: Nathan Morris
Always make sure to use safety and common sense when working on your ride. Use jack stands and
block the rear tires.
<img border=1 height=150 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper1.jpg>Step 1: Gather materials needed

for the job: one ratchet, 17mm socket, length of wire, tape and other masking materials (rags),
brake cleaner, and of course, your choice color of high-temp paint. (VHT and Plasti-kote offer many
shades of high-temp paint to choose from.)
Step 2: Clean up time: Take a wire brush to the calipers to rough up the surface and give the paint
a better adhesive surface. I sprayed brake cleaner on the assembly before and after using the wire
brush to remove any grease and break dust.<img border=1 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper2.jpg>
Step 3: Using a trick gleaned from the Haynes manual, remove the lower 17mm bolt on the
calipers, rotate up, and secure into place with length of wire from the caliper to the upper control
arm. (I found it was unnecessary to compress the caliper piston. If it is needed, refer to the article on
brake pad replacement)
Step 4: Mask off areas of calipers and rotors you don't want painted or hit with over-spray. I tend to
err on the side of caution and go overboard with the tape. For maintenance sake, I did not paint over
the rubber boots on the outside of the caliper bolts.<img border=1 width=250
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<img border=1 width=250 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper4.jpg>Step 5: Paint. Apply 3-4 coats,

allowing for sufficient drying time between coats.
Step 6: (Optional) While the opposite side calipers were drying, I decided to hit the lug plate with
the brush and some black high-temp paint to hide any surface rust. Following the same basic steps
of the calipers, I cleaned, masked off, and applied 3-4 coats of paint.<img border=1 width=250
<img border=1 src=files/paint_calipers/caliper7.jpg>Step 7: Remove all masking material. Even

with my over-abundance of tape, some paint made it on to the rotor. It was easily removed with
acetone and a rag and then sprayed again with brake cleaner (careful not to hit the newly painted
areas).
Step 8: Reassemble calipers. Remount wheels. Make sure to torque all lugs to proper specs.
Step 9: Open cold beverage and admire your handy-work. <img border=1 width=200

By: joegio250
List of needed materials:
- Bulldog adhesion promoter

- SEM- high build primer
- Dupont chroma base (Black Sand Pearl)
- Dupont chroma system base maker
- Dupont clear coat (460-00 select clear)
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- Dupont activator
- Red scotch brite pad
- Comet cleanser
- HVLP mini spray gun ($25 on Ebay)
- Air compressor with at least 2HP.
I'm no professional at paint and body so I called around to different body shops for tips on
painting chrome. The paint supply place is also a good source of information. The manufacturer of
the adhesion promoter claims they can even get paint to stick to glass with their product. All the
people I talked to recommended this stuff. I bought some extra paint and clear for future paint mods
on my Taco. I spent about $150 (including paint gun) for this project. It took me about 4 hours to do
in my backyard. You can get a professional job with a decent gun and good paint products. This is
the first time I used an auto spray gun and auto paint but found it to be fairly easy. I will take you
thru the step-by-step process on how I did the prep and paint work on my grille.

Here is a picture of the grille and corners before prep work with the chrome finish.

The first step in the prep process is to use the scotch brite pad and Comet. The Comet acts as the
abrasive along with the scotch brite pad. The goal here is to make all the chrome have a brushed
aluminum look You don't want to go all the way down to the plastic because this will create peeling if
you don't remove all the chrome. You just want to ruff up the surface and get rid of the shine. Here
is a picture of the grille after the first step of preparation.
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The next step is to apply the adhesion promoter to the areas to be painted. This stuff goes on clear
so you need to make sure all the chrome is sprayed. I chose to paint the entire grill to save time on
masking and to match the truck until I put in a billet grille insert. Let the adhesion promoter dry for
about 15 minutes before the next step. For the next step I used some high build primer to cover up
the chrome and to help the surface stand up to chips. Here is a picture with both the adhesion
promoter and primer applied.

Now comes the fun stuff. Time to lay down the basecoat. I mixed the chroma base color and the
chroma system base maker. I sprayed about 3 good coats of base color making sure to pay attention
to the fat parts of the grille. After the paint dried for a little I then sprayed the clear. I laid down
about 4 good heavy coats of clear. The clear took a long time to dry so check it before you try reinstalling the grill. This is what took the most time. Waiting for the clear to dry. The only downfall
about doing it in your yard is dust in the air that sticks to the clear as it dries. I would suggest doing
it in the garage if you don't have access to a paint booth. Even though I sprayed in my yard, the
overall paint job came out pretty good.
Here's a picture of the grille back on the truck:

By: James Laborte
src=files/badges/remove_emblems.jpg>Most of us will agree that a clean, smooth truck is..well,
clean and smooth! An easy way to clean up your body is to remove those unsightly factory
emblems. Most Tacomas have a badge on each door and two on the tailgate. Those of you with
Xtra Cabs have an additional one on each side. They're not difficult at all to remove. Here's the
lowdown:
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Tools and materials used:

-a wagner heat gun(if you know a tinter or a body man, they usually have one) if you can't get a a
heat gun, you can use a blow dryer, but they tend to overheat.
- a can of 3M adhesive remover
- a pair of gloves
- some good polish.
First you want to heat the emblem on low heat, moving slowly from side to side. In a few seconds,
you'll be able to move the emblem. Now, slap on the gloves and slowly remove the emblem. Be
careful.. it's hot! You should able to remove it in one piece.
Next, you'll want to spray on the adhesive remover and let it sit for a few seconds. Rub off the
remaining goop with a rag.
Finally, you will have to polish out the residue that's left . This project should take no more than
about 10 minutes and you won't scratch your paint using this method.
Reader Andrew writes:
Mine came right off (02' taco) with nothing more than a clean 1 plastic putty knife. I did notice that
since it was cold outside (approx 35F), the emblem adhesive was not too sticky, so using the edge of
the putty knife to ease the emblems up, all was a snap. The emblem adhesive seems to get real
sticky at room temp.
After removing the emblems, there were some very small bits of the adhesive that came off by
rubbing with my fingernail, then I just hit each spot with wax. no heat gun and no chemicals, just a
79cent putty knife from Home Depot.
David Lamb describes his experience using a similar method using a hair dryer, thread, and 3M
Adhesive Remover:
Supplies you'll need:<img vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right width=150 border=1
src=files/badges/lamb1.jpg>
- a hair dyrer
- 2 to 3 rags (pieces of an old t-shirt)
- 3M adhesive remover - I got this at Wal-Mart for $5.00
- a hose
- a bucket
- a wash rag or spounge (whatever you normally wash your truck with)
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- car wash
- a wax - preferably with some kind of scratch removing agent in it
- a towel
- a spool of thread
- a friend (or something about the height of the badging you can lay the dryer on)
First, you need to set the dryer up in such a way that it is pointing directly at the badge. This way
you will heat up the badge and it will weaken the adhesive behind it.
While the badge it heating, take the thread and wrap it around your fingers like you are going to
floss your teeth
Instead of flossing your teeth, you are going to floss those badges right off your truck.
Once you've gotten the badge off, there should be a gummy substance still on your truck like silly
putty. You should easily get the door badges off in one piece, but I'm not so sure you'll get to keep
the ones off the tailgate once you've removed them.
You should just pick this off with your fingers, it's quite easy to do.
Now that the gummy stuff is off, you will still see an outline where dirt and grime surrounded the
badge.
<img vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right width=150 border=1 src=files/badges/lamb3.jpg>
Take one of the rags and apply the adhesive remover to it as stated in the directions on the can (you
may want to try a test spot, like in the bed, before actually applying it to your truck).
This process should remove the gummy substance all together, but it will not totally clean the dirt
and grime. You will probably still see an outline of the badging at this point.
Next, you will take the soap and water in the bucket and firmly wash your truck. This will almost
totally remove the outline. Dry the area you washed.
Generously apply the wax to the former badge location with a second rag (not the adhesive remover
one)
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You will need to firmly rub in in order to buff out any residue and scratches
It is now done! If you still see any residue, go over the area again starting at any one of the steps
you feel needs to be repeated

Recently I decided to replace the front grill of my 1998 Tacoma, so I began checking prices for an
aftermarket replacement. I always liked the appearance of the straight line billet grills, but soon
found that they ran from about $150 to $200. Not wanting to fork out that much, I sat down in front
of the old Taco and started thinking.
The first thing that jumped out at me was the big Toyota emblem in the middle of the grill. Now,
what if that wasn’t there?… and so began the project. I simply cut out the large Toyota
emblem and added a few chrome trim pieces for a total of less than $20. So if you’re looking
for a cheap way to improve the front grill appearance, here’s an idea you may like.
"Before" view
Here’s the stock grill with the big Toyota emblem in the middle. The basic steps are to cut out
the big emblem with a Dremmel, repair the section, paint it and add some chrome trim. The whole
job took me about four hours, (with time off in between for paint drying). Total cost: less than $20
for the chrome trim pieces, a little body putty and some paint.
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First Step
The first step is remove the stock grill, which is very easy to do. The grill is held in by plastic retainer
clips (several are circled in the photograph). All you do is take a narrow flathead and push down on
the back of the clip to release it. Gently work the grill out as the individual clips are released. I
didn’t do an actual count, but I’d guess there are about a dozen total.
Second Step
The next step is to remove the large Toyota emblem from the middle of the grill. As shown in this
picture, start by masking off all of the chrome to protect it. During the job I had several tears in the
masking tape that I had to patch, and those would have been scratches in the chrome if the
protective tape hadn’t been there.
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Second Step Complete

This picture shows the emblem removed. I used a saws-all to cut the emblem out and it worked
great for some of the angle cuts. The other alternative is to make the cuts by hand. Cutting the
grillby hand would be harder, but not impossible since its all plastic.
Third Step
The next step is to repair the hole. In this picture you can see the piece of heavy plastic that I bent
and glued to the back of the crosspieces. I’d recommend using something stronger, (maybe a
piece of light metal attached with countersunk pop rivets) because the glued-in plastic flexed over
time and caused small cracks in the surface putty. Nothing major, but noticeable.
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Third Step Complete

This picture shows the final repair. Both crosspieces have been backed with supportive plastic, filled
with body putty and sanded over. Now its time to sand and prime to the desired quality.
Fourth Step
With the grill sanded and primed, the next step is to paint it the color of your choice. You’ll
notice the one smaller crosspiece still has a section missing… when covered with chrome trim
the missing section is virtually unnoticeable and structurally OK. At the bottom of the picture is one
of the chrome trim pieces. They are actually door edge protectors that I bought in a local auto parts
store for less than $5 (two per package).
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Final Product
Here’s the finished product, painted to match the vehicle with adhesive chrome trim strips
installed. Use your imagination… pinstripes, different paint schemes, etc. The bottom line is
$20 or $200… your choice.

Here are the official TRD (S-Runner) body kit installation manual. Read this document in PDF format
>>
Maintenance Tech

Engine Oil
2wd
5.8 Qts. (5.5L)
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5.0Qts. (4.8L)
5.7Qts. (5.4L)
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
4wd
5.7Qts. (5.4L)
5.0Qts. (4.7L)
5.5Qts. (5.2L)
5.2Qts. (4.9L)
Engine Coolant
2wd
2.4L (M/T) (95-97)
5.8Qts. (5.5L)
2.4L (M/T (98-00)
8.5Qts (8.0L)
2.4L (A/T) (95-97)
5.1Qts. (4.8L)
2.4L (A/T) (98-00)
8.2Qts. (7.8L)
3.4L (M/T) (95-97)
5.5Qts. (5.2L)
3.4L (M/T) (98-00)
10.3Qts. (9.7L)
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3.4L (A/T) (95-97)

5.2Qts. (4.9L)
3.4L (A/T) (98-00)
10.0Qts. (9.5L)
4wd
2.7L (M/T)
8.8Qts. (8.3L)
2.7L (A/T)
8.7Qts. (8.2L)
3.4L (M/T)
10.7Qts. (10.1L)
3.4L (A/T)
10.5Qts. (10.0L)
Transfer Case Oil

Drained
1.1Qts. (1.0L)

2.4L: Drained
Up to 2.5Qts.(2.4L)
3.4L (2wd): Drained
4WD models: Drained
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Fluid type: 2rz - Toyota Genuine ATF D-II or DEXRON III(DEXRON II)
3rz and 5vz - Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV

2.4L: Drained
2.7Qts. (2.6L)
2.7L: Drained
2.6Qts. (2.5L)
3.4L(2wd): Drained
2.7Qts. (2.6L)
3.4L(4wd): Drained
2.3 Qts. (2.2L)
Differential Oil
2.4L(2wd): Drained
1.4Qts. (1.35L)
3.4L(2wd): Drained
2.7Qts. (2.5L)
4wd Models (w/ ADD)(Front)
1.2Qts. (1.15L)
4wd Models (w/out ADD)(Front)
1.2Qts. (1.1L)
2.8Qts. (2.65L)
2.7Qts. (2.55L)
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3.1Qts. (2.95L)
2.6Qts. (2.45L)
1- With rear differential lock system
2- Without rear differential lock system
Fuel Tank
15.1 Gals. (57.0L)
16.0 Gals (60L)
18.0 Gals. (68.0L)
18.5 Gals. (70L)

Engine Oil
2wd Except PreRunner
4.8 Qts. (4.5L)
4.4Qts. (4.2L)
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6.1Qts. (5.8L)
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
4wd and PreRunner
5.5Qts. (5.2L)
5.2Qts. (4.9L)
6.1Qts. (5.8L)
5.4Qts. (5.1L)
Engine Coolant
4.0L
10.1Qts. (9.6L)
Manual Transmission
10.3Qts. (9.7L)
2.7L
9.1Qts. (8.6L)
Manual Transmission
9.1Qts. (8.7L)
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Transfer Case Oil

Drained
1.1Qts. (1.0L)


2.1Qts. (2.0L)
3.2Qts. (3.0L)
Fluid type: Toyota Genuine ATF Type T-IV (4-speed)

Toyota Genuine ATF WS (5-speed)

2.7Qts. (2.6L)
2.3Qts. (2.2L)
4.0L(2wd X-Runner models): Drained
1.9Qts. (1.8L)

Differential Oil
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4wd models (Front)

1.6Qts. (1.5L)
4wd and PreRunner (Rear)
3.0Qts. (2.80L)
2wd (except PreRunner)
3.5Qts. (3.31L)

(models with limited slip require gear oil for limited slip)
Fuel Tank
All Models
21.1 Gals. (80L)

Here are the instructions for the TRD oil change kit for supercharged 3.4L V6 engines (5VZ-FE).
View PDF file >>
JEFF
Here is a great link for this article... I'm guessing you'll need to get permission to use the info.
http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/maintenance/front_end/lube/

Below is an air filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size:
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Manufacturer
2.4L/2.7L 4cyl.
3.4L V6
Amsoil
TS117
TS115
Purolator
A24645
A34886
Fram
CA6690
CA7626
NAPA - Gold
FIL 6162
FIL 6109
NAPA - Silver
SFI 26162
Toyota Genuine
17801-35020-83
17801-07020
Toyota TRD
00602-17801-005
00602-17801-002

Not sure where to add brake fluid or windshield washer fluid? Check out the drawings below to help
you service your engine:
2.4L & 2.7L (2rz & 3rz) Engines:

<img border=1 width=500 src=files/2rz_engine.gif>
3.4L (5vz) Engines:

<img border=1 width=500 src=files/5vz_engine.gif>
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Toyota has received isolated reports regarding a small number of 1995 through 2000 model year
Tacoma
vehicles exhibiting excessive rust corrosion to the frame causing perforation of the metal. Toyota has
investigated these reports and determined that the vehicle frames in some vehicles may not have
adequate
corrosion-resistant protection. This combined with prolonged exposure to road salts and other
environmental factors may contribute to the development of excessive rust corrosion in the frames
of some
vehicles. This is unrelated to and separate from normal surface rust which is commonly found on
metallic surfaces after some years of usage and/or exposure to the environment.
Although the vehicle’s frame is covered by Toyota’s New Vehicle Limited Warranty for
3 years or 36,000
miles (whichever comes first), we at Toyota care about the customer’s overall experience and
confidence in
their vehicle. To assure our customers that we stand behind the product, we are providing an
extension of
the warranty coverage on certain 1995 through 2000 model year Tacoma vehicles for perforation of
the
vehicle’s frame caused by rust corrosion. This warranty extension will be offered for a period
of 15 years
with no mileage limitation from the vehicle’s in-service date, for this specific condition.
The owner notification will commence in mid-March 2008.
Below are the vehicle inspection and warranty policy files Toyota has been distributing to their
dealers:
- Vehicle Inspection Procedures
- Warranty Policy Information
Ongoing owner discussion about this issue is taking place in the CustomTacos.com Forum in this
thread:
http://www.CustomTacos.com/forum/showthread.php?t=109436

Based on an article by: Kai Berger
Materials/Tools Needed:
- 4 gallons of distilled water
- 1 gallon of radiator fluid
- 1 length of 1/4 rubber fuel line (optional, but recommended)
- 1 pair of pliers
- Metric socket set
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MAKE SURE THE ENGINE IS COOL BEFORE WORKING ON IT.
If you have a 4WD, the first step is to remove both skid plates under the front of the truck. You'll
need a metric socket set with a 12mm socket.
On the bottom passenger side of the radiator, you'll find the drain plug. You will notice the drain
plug has a spigot on it. If you don't want to make a mess you can use can use a tube to direct the
flow of the draining coolant. I used some leftover 1/4 rubber fuel line when I extended my rear
differential breather, and it worked great. Fit the rubber fuel line over the spigot and place the other
end of the hose in your drain pan.
You will need some pliers to turn the drain plug; you might want to be careful when doing this. The
drain plug is plastic and it might
break. Also, you'll notice in the picture that there is radiator fluid all over the place. This is because I
loosened the plug too much and it fell off, letting radiator fluid go everywhere. You are just going to
have to guess how far you can loosen the plug before it comes completely out.<img border=1
src=files/radiator_flush/drain_plug.jpg>
<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/drainplug2.jpg>

Once the fluid has been drained out of the radiator, you'll need to next drain the remaining fluid
from the engine block. You will need a 10mm socket to loosen the bolt. This drain plug also has a
spigot, so if you have a tube to hook up to it, that will save you clean-up time later. Loosen the bolt
until the fluid starts to drain out. There will not be much that comes out.
Next, tighten the drain plugs. I just used my hand since you are going to be loosening them up in a
second.
<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/battery_support.jpg>

<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/reservoir.jpg>
The next step is to remove the fluid reservoir. To do this, you must remove the bracket that secures
the battery.
The reservoir can easily be removed by sliding it up and out. Empty the fluid and put the reservoir
back in. Secure the battery bracket back in place.
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<img border=1 src=files/radiator_flush/water.jpg>

Now you are ready to fill the radiator with distilled water. It should take almost 2 gallons to fill the
radiator. Once filled, you will want to run turn the truck on leaving the radiator cap off. You will also
need to turn the heat on. The Haynes Manual suggests leaving the truck running until the top
radiator hose gets hot before turning it off.
Once the truck is cool, drain the distilled water out of the system using the two drain plugs
mentioned in the procedure above. Most of the water will still be cool until it is almost drained.
Most mechanics recommend filling and draining the system twice with distilled water as outlined
above.

Below is a fuel filter application guide for Tacoma models, seperated by engine size:
Manufacturer
2.4L/2.7L 4cyl.
3.4L V6
Purolator
F45075
F44710
Fram - 16V
G7629
G6680
Fram - 16V Universal
G7196
NAPA - Gold
FIL 3500
FIL 3319
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By: rocket
You've probably heard some of the benefits of installing an Optima before: They're completely
sealed, so they can be mounted in any orientation, even INSIDE your truck. They hold their charge
longer than conventional lead-acid batteries (up twice as long, according to Optima's website). They
don't require any maintenance such as cleaning terminals or adding water. They aren't susceptible
to shaking or jarring as normal batteries can be.
So, is it difficult to install an Optima battery? No way. Here's some photos of my Optima Red-Top
Battery installation:
Step 1: Unbolt the battery bracket from the engine compartment. It should use two 12-mm nuts.
Step 2: Loosen the positive and negative battery connections from your existing battery. Be
careful not to set the negative battery wire on the positive terminal, for obvious reasons.
<img width=200 vspace=8 hspace=8 align=right border=1 src=files/optima/side_spacer.jpg>Step

3: We will be installing the battery on it's side, with the terminals pointing towards the rear of the
truck. If your Optima battery came with a spacer, install that spacer on the side of the battery- the
side that doesn't have any terminals.
Step 4: Once the spacer is installed, set the new battery down in the truck and connect the positive
and negative terminals. Again, be careful to install the wires correctly.
Step 5: Reinstall the battery bracket to secure the battery.
Here are a few images of the completed installation:

<img width=200 border=1 src=files/optima/front_view_mounted.jpg>
Front View<img width=200 border=1 src=files/optima/right_side_mounted.jpg>
Side View

The Toyota service manual states that all model year Tacoma trucks should use 5W-30 oil.The 2.4L,
2.7L, and 3.4L engines all take the same oil filter. Below is a list of part numbers for popular brand
name oil filters:
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Brand
Part #
Amsoil
SDF57
Fram - Tough Gaurd
TG3614
Fram - X2 Extended Guard
XG3614
Fram - Extra Gaurd
PH3614
K&N - Performance Gold
HP1002
NAPA - Gold Filter
FIL 1348
NAPA - Silver Filter
SFI 21348
Purolator - Oil Filter
L100241
Purolator - Pure One
PL100241
Toyota Genuine
90915-YZZB1
Toyota TRD
00642-90915-001

src=files/headlight_install/before.jpg>One of the easiest (and most noticable) modifcations you can
perform on your truck is replacing the factory headlights. A set of high-quality aftermarket
headlights can not only improve the appearance of your truck, but can also improve your nighttime
vision.
When shopping for aftermarket bulbs, it's important to make sure you purchase the correct bulbs.
For all Tacoma models, you'll need to purchase size H4 bulbs.
Installing aftermarket bulbs (or replacing a blown factory bulb) is easy. Click the arrow below then
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follow the directions on the following pages. If you have questions or comments about this
procedure, email CustomTacos.
IMPORTANT NOTE: When performing this procedure, it is VERY important NOT to touch any part
of the glass lens on either the old or new bulbs. Oils from your fingers can rub off on the bulb and
cause them to spontaneously blow when powered on.
<img src=files/headlight_install/remove_cap.jpg border=1>
It is helpful to go ahead and unpackage the new bulbs before you start. Since it is so important not
to touch the glass lenses, I found it helpful to open the packaging of the new bulbs first.
Pop the hood and locate the back of the headlight assembly on either side. Since the battery is on
the driver's side of the truck (thus making it harder to work with the rear of the headlight), I found it
easiest to do the passenger side headlight first.
Remove the rubber cup weather seal from the wiring harness.
<img align=left src=files/headlight_install/unhook_clamp.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/headlight_install/unhook_clamp.jpg border=1>
<img src=files/headlight_install/empty_socket.jpg border=1>

<img src=files/headlight_install/new_bulb.jpg border=1>
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Install the replacement bulb. It has three tabs on it that will slide into the slots on the headlight
assembly.
<img src=files/headlight_install/install_bulb.jpg border=1>
<img src=files/headlight_install/replace_cap.jpg border=1>

Replace the rubber cap on the headlight assembly. This is the trickiest part of the installation.
Make sure that the wiring harness is securly on the bulb and that the rubber cap is completely on.
That's it. Turn on your headlights and make sure that both bulbs power on.

By: RevHard6
So, if you're like me, you wait until the squeal from your clutch pedal is driving you absolutely
insane then you do something about it. Replacing the clutch pedal bushings is a fairly straight
forward project. It also seems to be a near annual event for my truck. You will need the new
bushings, a few tools, and an hour or so to complete the replacement.
Toyota Part Numbers for Replacement Bushings:
90386-05018 - 2 ea (Round for the sides of the spring)
90389-05017 - 1 ea (U-shaped for the center of the spring/pedal groove)
90386-1307 - 2 ea (Round for the center pivot tube of the clutch pedal)
90386-08002 - 1 ea (fork plunger through pin bushing)
90949-03022 - 1 ea (spring)
Tools used:
3/8 ratchet
Various ratchet extensions
14mm, 12mm, 10mm sockets
14mm wrench
Philips/Standard screwdriver
Channel locks
Grease
Brute strength
1. Refer to the Dash Take-Apart Instructions, Steps 6, 7 & 8 to give your self some working room.
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2. Remove the 12mm bolt from under the dash. This is where a long ratchet extension comes
in handy. A universal ratchet joint may be used as well, but I found it to be more of a pain to try to
get it to line up with the angle of the bolt.
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3. Pop the hood to access the clutch master cylinder (CMC). There are two 12mm nuts that
are on the body of the CMC that attach to studs that go through the firewall. These two studs are
holding the clutch pedal assembly to firewall under the dash inside the cab. Once the two nuts are
removed, GENTLY pull the CMC towards the front of the truck to free the studs from the CMC.
WARNING - the CMC is plumbed with solid tubing. Be very careful in moving the CMC around to
avoid kinking the lines!
4. The clutch pedal assembly is now free of the firewall. You must now get back under the
dash to access the fork/plunger assembly that attaches the clutch pedal to the CMC. The
fork/plunger is connected to the clutch pedal via a trough-pin that is held in place by two small
tension washers and a cotter pin. Remove the cotter pin and push the through-pin out of the
assembly.
BE CAFEFUL to account for the two small tension washers that are on either side of the through-pin,
they are easy to loose. Remove the two electrical connections on either side of the clutch pedal. The
clutch pedal assembly should now be completely free and can be removed with a little creative
wiggling. Again, be careful not to be to forceful with the fork/plunger connected to the CMC.
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5. Once the pedal assembly is removed you can inspect the bushings for replacement. If one
is shot, chances are the others are as well. Considering you have the entire pedal out of the truck,
you may as well replace all the bushings while you have easy access to the assembly. The center
spring bushing is the main culprit of the squeaking that you hear when depressing the pedal. It
eventually gets eaten away allowing for that great metal-on-metal squeal.
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6. Removing the spring is a bit of a pain. I accomplished this by securing the pedal assembly
in a vice and squeezing each coil on the spring with the channel locks. I then pried the end of the
spring out with a screwdriver. Don't worry about messing up the bushing as it's going to get
replaced. Once one side was out it was easy to wrangle the other side out. The old bushings were
then cut out of the assembly or simply fell out due to wear.
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7. Remove the pedal from the assembly using the 14mm socket and wrench. When the nut
is removed the bolt will slide through the assembly and the pedal can be removed. When the pedal
is free of the assembly pivot tube and bushings can be removed.
8. Old vs. New
From left to right: Center pivot tube bushings, U-shaped spring bushing, round side spring bushings.
9. Clean and re-grease the pivot tube and bushing. Re-install the pivot tube and bushings
into the pedal and then install the pedal into the assembly.
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10. Install and grease the three remaining bushings. Tip: For the side bushings, I used the
channel locks to squeeze them into place then tapped them in the rest of the way with the
screwdriver.
11. Re-install the spring.

Here's where the brute force tool comes in handy. The spring is a little reluctant to get back into its
perch. I placed one end of the spring into the side bushing and the center of the spring into the Ushaped bushing and pedal.
**Make sure you have the spring facing the right way before you get too far! I then used a large
screwdriver placed through the spring and levered on it. The spring then compressed enough to
where I could muscle it back into place. This step is what took the longest and caused me to curse
the most.
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12. Installation is the reverse of removal. Keep in mind not to move the CMC too much. If it all
possible, have an extra set of hands hold the pedal assembly to the firewall while you re-bolt the
CMC. When reattaching the fork/plunger of the CMC to the clutch pedal (See step 4) make sure you
re-install the two little tension washers on the through-pin.
A word of advice; although the replacement of the bushings is not terribly difficult, if your truck is
still under warranty when you get the clutch pedal squeal, take it to the dealer.

By: Chris Lung
First, I suggest that you check your rotors for damage, warpage (usually you can check this with a
measuring caliper), or from the sensor digging into the rotor. If you suspect any damage, take the
rotor to a brake shop to have them properly turn (regrind) the rotor.
<img border=1 width=200 height=150 src=files/brakepads/1.jpg>Step 1: Chock back tires with

blocks, loosen the lug nuts on the tire, jack up the front you'll be working on, and set the frame on a
jack stand, and remove the tire.
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Step 2: Remove the bottom 17mm bolt shown in the picture and loosen the top 17mm bolt (you
might have to do a little work to get to the top bolt with the brake line in the way, you can do it
though). Try a breaker bar or a longer ratchet or wrench to budge the bolts loose. Swing the caliper
up and zip tie it down to the control arm or whatever is handy.<img border=1 width=200
Click to zoom in
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/3.jpg>Step 3: Remove the pads and dissemble.

Keep in mind the order of which you took it apart.
Step 4: Get your new pads out of the box. Use a file and file down the edges of the pads at about a
45 degree angle. (This keeps the pads from squealing as much)<img border=1 width=200
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/5.jpg>Step 5: Rub anti-squeal on the back of the

brake pads and put the shims on in the reverse order you took them off at. Make sure you put the
little sensor on the edge of rear brake pad.
Step 6: Take a block of wood and a c-clamp, and squeeze the piston back into the caliper to where
it's flush with the boot, if you go too far you have a chance in damaging the boot. Also, make sure
your brake fluid reservoir isn't overflowing while you do this, drain the fluid as necessary. Don't get
the fluid on your paint! It will remove paint and ruin your finish.<img border=1 width=200
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/7.jpg>Step 7: Place the pads in with the outer tabs
going into the clips. Remember to put the pad with the sensor on the back of the rotor.
Step 8: Cut the zip tie and lower the caliper onto the pads. Apply some grease around the bolt that
you removed, and then tighten up both of the 17mm bolts.
<img border=1 width=200 src=files/brakepads/9.jpg>Step 9: Turn your engine on and pump your
brakes a few times to make sure the piston now touches the pad. Add or remove fluid as needed to
get it to the max fill line. One last time make sure all your bolts are tightened down right.
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Finally put your tire back on, hand tighten your lugs, lower the Taco, torque the lugs to proper specs,
and take a drive
around making sure it's all good.
Lastly, remember to always secure your truck with jack stands when performing under-vehicle
maintenace.

By: Jeff
Toyota recommends that you replace your fuel filter every 30,000 miles or 24 months. The
operation is simple and should take no more than 30 minutes. The part should cost no more than
about $15 at your local auto parts store.
Tools Needed:
- Fuel Filter (Which part # do I need?)
- Sockets: 10mm (deep-well recommended)
- Wrenches: 19mm and 14mm
- Shop rags and glass jar (to collect leaking fuel)
Depressurize Fuel System
It is VERY important that you depressurize the fuel system before you replace your fuel filter.
Failure to do so may result in injury from gasoline under pressure. Follow these steps:
1. Remove gas cap from filler neck. This will relieve the pressure in the tank.<img border=1
2. Remove the fuel pump circuit relay to disable the fuel pump. This relay is located under the
dash on the drivers side near the fuse block. Simply pull it out and leave on the floor until you are
done.
Alternatively, you may disconnect the fuel pump harness on the gas tank. However, removing the
circuit relay is usually much easier.
<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/1a.jpg width=200>
Under the dash<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/1b.jpg width=200>
Looking up from floorboard<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/relay.jpg width=117 height=150>
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Closeup of relay
3. Start the truck and wait for the engine to stall. Once it has stalled, the fuel pressure has been
relieved. It is safe to continue.
Replace the Filter
Location: On the 3.4L V6 engine, the fuel filter is located under the truck about midway back on
the drivers side - almost directly under the driver's seat. It will look similar to the photo to the
right:<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/3b.jpg width=250>
1. Use the 19mm and 14mm wrenches to loosen the banjo bolt on either end of the fuel filter.
Have shop rags and/or jar ready as gas will begin to leak out immediately.<img border=1
<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/4.jpg width=250>2. Remove the two 10mm nuts that hold the
fuel filter bracket to the body of the truck. Once the bracket is loose, you should be able to
manuever the filter and bracket loose from the truck.
3. Loosen the 10mm filter clamp bolt and remove the old filter, and install the new filter in the
bracket. While doing this, take note of the direction that the filter is installed. The new filter should
have a Flow >> indicator on it. Make sure that the new filter is installed the correct direction.
Loosely tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt, leaving some room for play.
<img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/5.jpg height=140><img border=1 src=files/fuel_filter/6.jpg
width=250>
4. Manuever the bracket and new filter into place and tighten the banjo bolts. Tighten the 10mm
nuts that attach the bracket to the body. Tighten the 10mm filter clamp bolt.<img border=1
5. Re-install the fuel pump circuit relay (or the fuel pump harness) and start the truck. The first
crank-over of the truck may result in some stuttering due to the loss in fuel pressure.
6. Check fuel filter fittings for leaks.
You're done!

This is a summary listing of the numerical light bulb designations for replacement applications on
2001 - 2004 Tacomas. The data was compiled from information obtained from Osram / Sylvania's
Lamp Replacement Guide:
http://www.sylvania.com/ConsumerProducts/AutomotiveLighting/LampReplacementGuide/
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The Osram / Sylvania product numbers are widely used as the common designators for the different
bulb types.
If anything changed during the period 1995 - 2004, the listing below breaks out the subperiods
during which a designation was applicable.
If no specific years are listed, that means the Sylvania guide indicated the bulb designation applies
for the entire period 1995 - 2004.
Headlight
1995 - 1997 (Sealed Beams) = H6054

1997 - 2004 (Replaceable Halogen Capsules) = 9003
Parking Light
1995 - 2004 = 168

2001 - 2004 = 4157 (optionally)
Front Turn Signal
1995 - 2000 = 1156
2001 - 2004 = 4157
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Rear Turn Signal = 1156
Tail Light = 1157
Stop Light / Brake Light = 1157
High Mount Stop Light (3rd Brake Light)

1995 - 1996 = 921
1997 - 2004 = 168
License Plate
1995 - 1996 = 168

1997 - 2004 = 194
Back Up Light
1995 - 2000 = 1156

2001 - 2004 = 921
Front Sidemarker = 168
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Glove box = 74
Dome Light = DE3175
Step/Courtesy light = DE3021 / DE3022
Trunk/Cargo area = DE3022 (1995 - 1997 only)
Instrument - General = 194

By Wepps03Coma
This is directly from the owners manual Section 1-6 "Operation of the Instruments and Controls"
under "Service reminder indicators and warning buzzers" Subsection G "Engine Oil Replacement
Reminder Light" page 150
Clearing the "Maint Reqd" light on 2005 and up Tacoma's
This light acts as a reminder to replace the engine oil.
This light will come on when the ignition key is turned to "ON" and will go off after about a few
seconds.
When you drive for about 7200 km (4500 miles) after the engine oil replacement this light
illuminates for about 3 seconds and then flashes for about 12 seconds with the ignition key turned to
the "ON" position. If you continue driving without replacing the engine oil, and if the distance driven
exceeds 8000 km (5000 miles), the light will come on after the ignition key is turned to the "ON"
position. The light will remain on thereafter.
If the light is flashing, we recommend that you replace the engine oil at an early opportunity
depending on the driving and road conditions. IF the light comes on, replace it as soon as possible.
The system must be reset after the engine oil replacement. Rest the system by the following
procedure.
1. Turn the ignition key to the "OFF" position with the odometer reading shown (For details, see
"Odometer and two trip meters" on page 143 in this Section.)
2. Turn the ignition key to the "ON" position while holding down the trip meter knob.
Hold the knob for at least 5 seconds. The odometer indicates "000000" and the light goes off.
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If the system fails to reset, the light will continue flashing.

Here are the instructions for replacing the drive assembly in the 3rd generation (grey) TRD
superchargers for the 3.4L V6 engine (5VZ-FE).

BoostError's rundown of a full prep and polish of a car using Zaino car car products:
Wash with dawn

Rinse
Wash with Z7 and rub the claybar while it's wet
Rewash with Z7, wash the rims with Z7 at the same time. Just use the soap out of the bucket. I
do it every time. Works 1000x better than rim cleaner
Rinse without the sprayer (aka let the water dribble from the hose)
Blow with leaf blower to make drying easier, or just use towels. I still recommend MicroFiber or
DF.
Spray car with Z6, wiping dry as you go, in small areas. 1/2 body panel at a time is how I do it.
Mix up less than 1/2 bottle of Z5 and 2-3 drops of ZFX, shake for 1 minute, let sit for 5 minutes to
activate.
Put on coat using forward/backward motion on hood/roof/tonneau, up/down on doors/bed/etc.
Use a couple spritzes of Z6 on the applicator to make it much easier, especially on subsequent coats.
Don't forget door jambs, grill, bumpers, GLASS (trust me), and RIMS.
Drink a beer, sit on your ass, or otherwise occupy 30-45 minutes.
Wipe Z5 off. Should come off as if it were never there, if not, wait 15 minutes and try again.
Z6 actually HELPS remove the polish, so a LIGHT spritz on the cloth helps.
Z6 entire vehicle again, in small sections as always
Reapply Z5 as soon as you wish (I generally wait about 8.23 seconds)
Repeat for a maximum of 3 coats.
I recommend doing 3 coats of Z5 to completely hide/eliminate swirls.
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If you still have swirls, do three more coats the next day. DO NOT DAWN/CLAY the truck, just
wash/dry, or if it's not even dirty, just Z6 it.
Once swirls are gone and you wipe the drool off, mix up less than half a bottle of Z2 with 2-3
drops of ZFX (however much Z5 you used, mix slightly less Z2, as the coats on there already will
make it easier to apply).
Same procedure. Apply, cure, remove, apply, etc...
Maximum of 3 coats in a single day of either polish. Switch back and forth as often as you want,
but finish up with Z2 for a deeper shine. The more coats the merrier. Expect EASILY 6 months of
perfect shine from one measley coat.
Z5 and Z2 both work just fine on wheels, Z16 works GREAT on tires and black bumper valences
like mine. Apply a coat, let it dry, and do a few, and they'll be a nice deep black.
BTW: With Z5/Z2'd rims, dirt and brake dust wash right off and never stain.
Your mileage may vary.
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