Care Sheet - Mangrove snake (Boiga dendophyla)

Yellow Banded Mangrove Snake

Boiga dendrophyla dendrophya

Sulawesi Black Mangrove Snake

Boiga dendophyla gemmicincta
(As hatchlings they are black with
orange bands that diminish with
age).

Boiga dendrophyla ssp. and its distribution.

Mangrove Snake
Distribution
Indonesia (Java),
Boiga dendrophyla dendrophyla
Boiga dendrophyla annectens
Indonesia (Kalimantan, Borneo); Brunei
Darussalam; Malaysia (East Malaysia)
Philippine Islands (Luzon, Polillo)
Boiga dendrophyla divergens
Indonesia (Sulawesi incl. Togian)
Boiga dendrophyla gemmicincta
Philippine Islands (Mindanao)
Boiga dendrophyla latifasciata
Boiga dendrophyla levitoni
Sitio Batiw, Barangay Badiangan,
municipality Pandan, provinz Antique,
Panay (Philippines)
Boiga dendrophyla melanota
South Thailand, West Malaysia,
Singapore, Indonesia (Sumatra)
Boiga dendrophyla multicincta
Thailand, Malaysia: West & Penang
Island, Singapore, Indonesia: Sumatra,
Riau Archipelago, Bangka, Billiton,
Cambodia, Vietnam
Indonesia (Babi, Batu Archipelago,
Boiga dendrophyla occidentalis
Nias, Sumatra)

The most common of the Mangrove snakes is the yellow Banded Mangrove there
are other sub species that are not that available to the trade but do appear on
occasion. The information here is also good for the other Mangrove Snakes.
This species of snake belongs to the genus Boiga. They are one of the largest
cat snake species, averaging in lengths between six to eight feet. They are
considered mildly venomous, though moderate envenomations resulting in
intense swelling have been reported. There have been no severe cases of
hospitalisation or fatalities that I know of.
Habitat: The mangrove snake is found more often in lowland rainforest than
Mangrove swamps, from which it is named.
Food: Feeds on small mammals, Birds, lizards, frogs, snakes and fish.
These snakes are nocturnal and prefer to hide during the day.
They are very aggressive and fast snakes and should be handled with a grab
stick or hook. If you prefer to handle your snakes then gloves should be used.
These snakes have a long strike range.
With a long strike distance, it can be quite a handful, handling a 200cm+
specimen. Some 8very few) specimens are very docile, but it seems most of
them are very aggressive all the time. They are more aggressive at night when
they are in hunting mode.
Venom:
The whole Boiga complex consist of rear fanged snakes and most are harmless
unless you are allergic to the venom, recent studies have shown that some
species have venom as toxic as the venom from the death adder (A. Antarticus).
Toxicity is different in each Boiga species. Boiga irregularis has been known to
cause some severe envenomations and a few deaths among infants. Bites from
Boiga dendrophila sp. have caused large swellings.
Though their means of delivery is very poor. Being rear fanged, they have
enlarged teeth in the back of their mouth. In these there is a small groove which
allows the venom to run from the venom glands and into their mouth and then
have to be chewed into the prey.
So if you receive a fast grab/release bite you are not likely to suffer any
consequences from the bite. Maybe a rash, local swelling and pain around the
bite mark. But if you allow the snake to chew for a while you can suffer from quite
a nasty envenomation. Effects can be headache, nausea, swelling, pain,
discolouration of the surrounding tissue as well as necrosis (tissue death).
Usually a pair of solid gloves should be worn and will keep the snake from biting
you.
This being said, it is also important to point out that lots of people get bitten by
various Boiga sp. every year and dont feel any effect at all. Above symptoms are
a worst case scenario.
Terrarium/Vivarium: Interior and Decoration:
The material of the cage is not that important. Only thing you must make sure is
that it can resist the high humidity needed. Glass cages are good the largest Exo
Terra terrariums are excellent and have no problems with water. But attaching
branches can be a problem. It can be done by using a good solid background or
arrange the branches so they dont need to be fixed.

Unless you insulate the terrarium with a background like cork tiles, they let out a
lot of the heat.
The wooden vivariums are easy to arrange. You can screw your branches and
other decor to the sides and they are well insulated. But they dont cope well with
the high humidity.
Of course you can paint the inside with a non toxic water-resistant paint or yacht
varnish. Giving it 2-3 coats will do fine.
Tall vivariums with lots of branches and plenty of places to hide are to be
preferred. I like to use jungle vines, imported from Asia, as they give a really cool
look.
Make sure to create hiding places both high and low. Plants also look great and
provide good cover for your snake as well as helping to keep the humidity up.
They help to keep a good environment in your cage. Plastic plants are good as
they can take the wear and tear of the snake climbing over them. They are also
easy to keep clean.
The size of the cage is of course determined by the size and species of your
snake.
Boiga babies do best in smaller cages with lots of tight places to hide. Non
transparent plastic boxes will do fine for housing neonates. Critter boxes or FerPlast cages are good but either paint the outside or stick coloured paper to the
plastic as the clear plastic can cause stress.
For juvenile Boiga (50-80 cm) I would suggest no less than 40x40x80 cm (Long x
Wide x High). I would prefer 60x60x100 cm. For adult species (120 cm+) I say no
smaller than 60x60x120 cm for a single animal. For a large 200+ cm snake a
larger cage will be necessary!!
NOTE be aware that most Boiga species are highly cannibalistic. Do not attempt
putting a smaller specimen in the cage with a larger one. I would suggest
keeping them separate and only introduce them to each other when trying to
breed them.
Substrate: I use coconut fibre (Coir) because of the high humidity also
Sphagnum moss is good.
Water: A water bowl that is large enough for the snake to lie in but not completely
submerge is good and should be changed daily.
Spray the cage two or three times a day to give some added humidity, also most
Mangroves will not drink from a bowl but drink the water droplets from their
bodies and foliage when sprayed.
Humidity: should be 70-90%
Heating: It is best to use ceramic heaters (make sure to shield the bulb with a
wire cage). Best for larger vivariums as they generate a lot of heat Always use
with an appropriate pulse proportional thermostat.
Heat mats can be used on the smaller cages/vivariums placed under half the
vivarium/cage. Also use with a thermostat which can be used with the Ceramic
later on.
Aim for a temperature range of 27C - 29C days time high, 23C 25C. Do
not go above 29C otherwise they can suffer from heat stress.
Food: rodents, birds, fish, frogs, lizards, snakes

Breeding: Females lay 515 eggs, incubate the eggs at 2729 C for
110120 days. Hatchlings about 3040 cm.
Wild Caught Animals & Quarantine:
Dealing with WC Boiga is a lot more difficult, as they are usually full of internal
parasites and very dehydrated when they are bought.
Parasites are best treated by a vet unless you know what you are doing and 10%
Panacure (Fenbendazole) is used by tubing it directly into the stomach via a
syringe and tube. They will probably need two doses a fortnight apart.
Flagellates can be treated with Flagyl (metronidazole) in the same way.
Dehydration I treat any wild caught snakes in the same way for dehydration. Take
a large plastic storage box with a good fitting lid. Add half an inch of luke warm
water and add half a can of sport aid drink one with re hydration salts and EDTA
in them. Add the snake and replace the lid and tape it down so that the snake
cannot push it off. Leave for half an hour then return the snake to its
vivarium/cage. Repeat this daily until the snake is re-hydrated.
To tell if the snake is dehydrated pinch the skin and it should spring back
immediately, the longer it takes the more dehydrated the snake is.
Dehydration is the biggest killer of imported Boigas.
Before getting the snake home, you should have prepared a quarantine area. It is
important that you separate your WC Boiga from your already healthy collection
to avoid spreading disease or parasites.
When the quarantine area is setup and you have got your Boiga(s) take a stool
(faecal) sample and take it to the vet. Your vet should have the sample within 24
hours of the snakes making it. When you find it, put it in a little plastic container
and into the fridge if you cannot go to the vet right away.
Ask him/her to analyse the sample looking for worms or parasites like flagellates.
Keep the animals in quarantine for at least 6 months. If your Boiga is being
treated for something during the 3 months, keep it in quarantine until the
treatment is over and another faecal sample has shown the snakes is fine.
John Gamesby