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FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK

REV 6.02
24/11/2006

TEMA GROUP

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

1. FOREWORD
Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook has been prepared for the purpose of defining the
tests, which must be carried out on the fabric that we will use in our products, the standards and
the tolerances that pertain to such tests and the rules as to how these tests will be carried out.
Fabric Quality Handbook will also be referred to as a document wherein our standards are
specified for our fabric suppliers. The standards of the products that our suppliers will produce for
us must be within the tolerance limits appearing in this handbook.
Fabric Quality Handbook is valid with Oekotex 100 standards. At common tests, the
standards prevailing in Tema Group Fabric Quality Handbook will be taken. For tests that are not
included in the Handbook, Oekotex 100 test standards and values will prevail. We expect supplied
products and fabrics will meet Oekotex 100 standards.
In chapter one, the method of use of the Fabric Quality Handbook is explained.
Chapter two contains the instructions where the purpose of doing fastness tests depicted in
Table 3 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the method of
doing tests are explained in detail.
Chapter three contains the instructions where the purpose of doing physical tests depicted in
Tables a and 5 in detail, materials and tools, which will be used during the tests as well as the
method of doing tests are explained in detail.
This chapter serves more to the standardization of the tests that we do at Tema Group
Laboratories.
The annexes of the Fabric Quality Handbook incorporate various tables and forms. These
tables and forms are used for the following purposes.
Table 1 shows the tests that must be done on woven fabric on product basis.
Table 2 depicts the tests that must be done on knitted fabric on the basis of fabric
composition.
Table 3 contains the fastness tests that must be done considering fabric compositions and
the information as tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests.
Table 4 contains the physical tests that must be done on woven fabric and the information as
tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric
compositions.
Table 5 contains the physical tests that must be done on knitted fabric and the information as
tolerances, standards etc. belonging to such tests. This table was designed considering fabric
compositions.
Chapter 7 deals with ecological test standards. It contains requested ecological test values
and the ecological standards that are used for defining these values. However, since there is not a
generally accepted international test method in defining some values, these tests will be done using
the in-house methods of the relevant laboratories.

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2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK


Fabric Quality Handbook will be used within Tema Group. Fabric purchasing will be evaluated
under the framework of laboratory and fabric delivery and control procedures.
While fabric is ordered to suppliers, the tests that are required for particular a product or
fabric depicted in Table 1 and 2 will be identified.
Even if the tests in Table 1 and Table 2 were not required from suppliers while order was
being placed, it is under the suppliers responsibility to deliver products having the tolerance limits
depicted in Tables 3, 4 and 5.
The tests that will be required from the laboratory after the ordered fabric has arrived at
warehouse will be defined considering Table 1 and Table 2.
Laboratory findings will be assessed by Product Responsible considering Table 3, Table 4 and
Table 5
You can refer to the last chapter of the handbook for ecological test standards.

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1. FOREWORD .................................................................................. 2
2. USE OF THE HANDBOOK .................................................................. 3
3. FASTNESS TESTS .......................................................................... 5
3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08 ................................................................................................................... 6
3.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14....................................................................................................... 7
3.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09.................................................................. 8
3.4. CROSS STAINING HT12 .....................................................................................................................10
4. PHYSICAL TESTS .......................................................................... 11
4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20 ..................................................12
4.2. ELASTICITY FT07 .................................................................................................................................13
4.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03 ........................................................................................................................15
4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11.....................................................................................................17
4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18 ..................................................................................................................19
4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19...........................................................................................................................20
5. TABLES...................................................................................... 22
5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE ......................23
5.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE......................25
5.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)................................................26
5.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4) ...............................................27
5.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4) ...............................................28
5.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4) ...............................................29
5.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2) ........................30
5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2).........................31
5.9. TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4) ....................32
5.10. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)...................33
5.11. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (3/4) ...................34
5.12. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)...................35
5.13. TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE QUANTITIES ...36
6. ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS........................................................... 38
6.1. SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS .......................................39
7. ECOLOGICAL TESTS ....................................................................... 40
7.1. ECOLOGICAL TESTS .............................................................................................................................41
7.2. ECOLOGICAL TEST STANDARDS ...................................................................................................42
7.3. ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES ................................................................................................44
7.4. TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION ....49
7.5. CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES.........................................................................................................50
7.6. TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS ...............................51

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3. FASTNESS TESTS

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3.1. PRINT DURABILITY HT08


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 9

PRINT DURABILITY
HT-08

3.1.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour change, wear and stain made by other
colours that might occur after wash and use of the products, for which production printed fabric is
used or which are piece-printed.
3.1.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine
Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight
Colourmatic detergent
Softener
Tumble Drier
3.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
For this test finished sewn products are used
Weight of the finished product is increased to 2 kg by adding white polyester fabrics each
50g weigth. Wash temperature is set to 50C. 50 g of colourmatic detergent and 50 g of softener is
added to the compartments of the front loaded washing machine. The washing machine is run at
short wash-program.
The washing cycle is repeated two more times. There is no need for drying between washing
cycles. Following the last washing cycle sample is hung to dry. It can also be dried by reversing it so
that printing direction faces inward.
3.1.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation process will include assessment of change of printing at folding and sews, greasing
of the base fabric, greasing of print colours and general appearance of print, using grey scale (ISO
105 A02-ISO 105 A03).
3.1.5. REPORTING
The findings about the print based on the above identified 4 criteria and the pass/fail ratings
appearing in the quality handbook will be individually noted.

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3.2. POST-WASH APPEARANCE FT14


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

POST-WASH
APPEARANCE
FT- 14

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 10

3.2.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining post-wash colour change and staining of the
product, which is washed in domestic washing machines.
3.2.2. MATERIALS TO BE USED
Domestic washing machine
Tumble Drier
Grey scale (ISO 105 A02-ISO 105 A03)
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight
3.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
A- If the sample is a sewn product, it will be weighted and completed up to 2 kg with 100%
white Polyester fabrics, weights in 50g. The product is washed and dried according to the washing
instructions on its label. Before washing cycle is started, pieces will be cut out from the product in
order to make a later comparison if the product contains contrast colours.
B - If the sample is a fabric, a piece of 30x30 cm is taken on which contract colours appear
and four edges are over locked. Another piece is taken having the same contrast colours for control
purposes. The sample is weighted and completed to 2 kg with 100% polyester fabric. At TGKKEK and
depending on fabric type, it is washed and dried at a short program with no pre-wash cycle at the
temperature specified at FT01.
50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used for washing,
If the fabric weight is over 2 kg, test is done without uploading adding fabrics.
3.2.4. EVALUATION
Evaluation is done at a dark room under D65 daylight on grey scales Grey scale (ISO 105 A02ISO 105 A03 ) . Findings are compared with the values at TGKKEK. If a sewn product has been
tested, the sample is delivered to the unit concerned inch order to assess the other appearances on
the product as a result of colour change and staining tests, if required.
3.2.5. REPORTING
Findings obtained from the tested samples are put down in the test results report. The report
contains the data that relate to colour change and staining only. Other evaluations (sew appearance,
shrinkage and sagging) must be done by relevant units.

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3.3. COLOUR FASTNESS TO WET ALKALI LIGHT HT09


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT
HT-09

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 5

3.3.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to assess the change that will likely occur on fabric within it is
exposed to light after detergent washing.
3.3.2. MATERIALS USED
ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate
Polyethylene foil not containing BHT
Air cooled Xenon Arc Lamp (complying to ISO 105 B02)
Colour change grey scale ( ISO 105 A02)
Blue wool (Blue wool scales of number 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5)
3.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will have the minimum size 45 mm x 10 mm.
Preparation of solution: 4g/lt ECE (B) + 1 g/lt Sodium Perborate will be dissolved in 1 lt water
at 50C (+ - 2C).
The sample is soaked into the prepared solution as it was explained in related sample soak
section in ISO 105 B07 and the sample is wrapped with special polyethylene not containing BHT in
single layer. The polyethylene layer at the back of the sample will overlap like a cover. This part will
be taped airtight.

Polyethylene

Sample
Fabric

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The sample is inserted in a carton containing no optics and the protruding ends of
polyethylene are taped on the back of the box.

It is tested for 5 hours for woven fabrics and 3 hours for knitted fabrics at light fastness
tester as per ISO 105 B02.
Samples are removed from polyethylene. When removed the samples must be wet. If samples
get dry during test, the test should be repeated.
Samples are left for drying in a dark room.
3.3.4. EVALUATION
Dried samples are evaluated on grey scale ( ISO 105 A02) under D65 light in light cabin.
3.3.5. REPORTING
Test findings will be put down on the test results form.

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3.4. CROSS STAINING HT12


TEST

NAME OF
CODE

CROSS STAINING
HT-12

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 13

3.4.1 PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining colour staining of contrast colours within the
same product, after washing and keeping wet.
3.4.2 MATERIALS TO BE USED
Apparatus of CF to Washing; Gyrowash
Perspirometer, Acrylic Plates,
Stove,
Light Cabinet,
Magnetic Mixer,
Balance,
ECE Phosphate Reference Detergent (B) + Sodium Perborate,
Gray Scale of Staining (ISO 105 A03).

3.4.3 CONDUCT OF THE TEST


Two sets of fabric samples are cut from light coloured fabric as in the measure of 40x110 mm
and dark coloured fabric as 40x100 mm (Due to the net visibility of staining of dark colours on the
light coloured fabric, the dark coloured fabrics are cut smaller than the light coloured fabrics).
Light and dark coloured fabric samples are sewn from the short edges with overlock stitching whilst
the front faces of samples are being contacted. CF to washing test (ISO 105 C06) is performed at
one of the prepared sample according to composition of the dark coloured fabrics washing
temperature as stated at TGKKEK. ISO 105 E01 washing test is performed to the other test
sample.
In this method; main differences from the standards is that using contrast coloured fabric
instead of using adjacent multifibre fabric. Conducts of the tests, conditions and all other
processes are exactly similar to the related standards. (See ISO 105 C06:1994, ISO 105 E01:1994)
3.4.4 EVALUATION
Dried samples (at the appropriate conditions) are evaluated under the D65 daylight in the
light box with using gray scale of staining (ISO 105 A03). At the evaluation, it is essential of that
the staining of the light coloured fabric.
3.4.5 REPORTING
Findings obtained from the tested samples are put down in the test results report.

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4. PHYSICAL TESTS

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4.1. DIMENSIONAL CHANGE TEST / (FABRIC SAGGING) FT20


NAME
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
OF TEST
TEST/ (FABRIC SAGGING)
CODE
FT-20

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 11

4.1.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of knitted fabrics which influenced by
various physical effects.
4.1.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Metal ruler
Pen, suitable for writing on fabrics
Mechanism for hanging fabrics
Marker pen
Scissors
4.1.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Test sample is taken at least 2.5 meters from the beginning of fabric rolls.
By using template, fabric sample is marked with a marker pen at the size of 50 x 50 cm.
Fabric is cut on the marked line with a tolerance of + 5 cm.
Test sample is hung equally folded onto a stretched rope in the longitudinal direction of knit.
Test sample is kept hung for 24 hours (in emergency it must be kept at least for 4 hours).
Test sample is smoothly laid on the table, after waiting time.
It is measured in length and width from line to line.
% of the fabric sagging is calculated with the below formula.
% Sagging = (Original measure Post-washing Measure) x 100 / Original measure
The value thus found will be put down on the test results form as % of sagging in width and
length.
4.1.4. EVALUATION
The findings will be compared with the target value by using the table depending whether the
tested fabric is knitted or woven.
4.1.5. REPORTING
Findings will be put down on test results form.

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4.2. ELASTICITY FT07


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

ELASTICITY

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 2

FT-07

4.2.1. PURPOSE
This test will be done in order to define the elasticity of woven fabric containing elastic
material towards the direction of the elastic material.
4.2.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Tensile Strength Tester (with the below components)
Load cell with 0-600 N measuring range.
Sample holding jaws, suitable for elastic fabric at the width 5 cm.
Software capable to display test period and speed.
Marking pen
Scissors
4.2.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Sample Preparation:
If the sample fabric Warp Elastic or Weft Elastic fabric, 3 samples are prepared in
elastic direction. If the fabric is elastic in both directions, totally 6 samples are prepared, 3 in
warp and 3 in weft.
If possible samples must be taken diagonally so as to avoid containing the same weft and/or
warp yarns.
Samples must be taken at least 10% of the fabric width inward.
Conditioning: The fabric to be tested must be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a
temperature of 20 2C and at a humidity of 65% 4.
Procedure: 3 samples are taken from each fabric for test (if both weft and warp of the fabric
are elastic, 6 samples will taken e.g. 3 in weft direction and 3 in ward direction). Samples must have
a size of 33 cm x 6 cm each. The long edge must be parallel to the elastic yarn.
Sample must be reduced to a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns either by hand or a
tweezers. During this operation care must be exercised to draw out equal number of yarns from
both sides.
Then jaws will be mounted and the program will be run. Jaw surface is 100 mm x 25 mm.
Sample is placed on jaws wit hour pre-stretching it. Sample will be stretched for 3 times from
0 to 30 N at a speed of 300 mm/min. At the 3rd stretching fabrics elongation under a load of 30N
will be calculated. Other two samples will be placed on jaws and tested in similar way.
4.2.4. EVALUATION
For fabrics having elastic material in a single direction, elongation after the 3rd stretching
must be higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%).

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For fabrics having elastic material in both directions, elongation in one direction must be
higher than the level which stated in related Table (Table 4), (Tolerance 10%). If the elongation of
the fabric is lower than these levels, test is evaluated as Fail.
4.2.5. REPORTING
Test results, the arithmetic mea of elongations of 3 samples will be put down in the test
results form specifying test direction.

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4.3. SPIRALITY TEST FT03


TEST

NAME OF
CODE

SPIRALITY TEST
FT-03

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 6

4.3.1. PURPOSE
Determination of deformation in the fabric that occurs after washing in particular.
4.3.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Front loaded washing machine.
Metal ruler.
Marking template and ruler.
4.3.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
The sample fabric to be tested will be conditioned for 4 hours before the test. Test sample
will not be taken from either end of roll. Sample must be taken at 2.5 meters inward at least.
Fabric is folded in the middle with folded edges aligned. Anti-Shrinkage template is placed on
the fabric at a distance from the edge of the fabric of at least 10% of its width. Figures on the
template are marked. Weft and warp directions are identified. A line will be drawn at the outer
edge of the template using a permanent ink pen. Edges will be cut without any round corner to obtain
a square at size 50x50 cm.
3 edges of the fabric are over locked. The bottom edge is left open and then over locked. Lot
number, drying method and wash temperature are written on the right bottom corner of the fabric.
Sample is weighted. Its weight is increased to 2 kg by 50 g standard Polyester fabrics.
For washing temperature and drying process, dimensional change test values that are
appropriate for this fabric will be used. For washing 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener are used.
When washing cycle is complete, the sample is dried for 70 minutes (10 minutes cooling
included) for cellulose fabric (cotton, viscose and their blends) and for 45 minutes (10 minutes
cooling included) for synthetic fabric (polyester, nylon and their blends), by completing to 2 kg with
Polyester fabric in Tumbler drier. After dry at Tumbler drier, test sample is conditioned for at
least 4 hours and measured using the following formula.

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4.3.4. EVALUATION
The value obtained by using the table depending whether the fabric is woven or knitted is
compared with target value.
4.3.5. REPORTING
The values obtained are put down in the test results report.

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4.4. PERMANENT ELONGATION FT11


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

PERMANENT ELONGATION

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 3

FT-11

4.4.1. PURPOSE
This test is done in order to measure permanent elongations of elastic woven fabric under
constant loads.
Before this test, fabric must have undergone elasticity test because the elasticity value
found at that must be used.
Note: If 80% of elasticity of fabric is more than 35%, elongation value to be used at
permanent elongation test will be limited to 35%. A fabric which found with 45% elasticity will be
used with the value of 35 %elasticity for this test (%45*%80=%36 > %35).
Permanent elongation is the elongation in percentage of woven fabric containing elastic
material, which are held at a certain elongation for a certain time and then released.
4.4.2. EQUIPMENT USED
Static elongation tester
Scissors
Ruler
Timer
4.4.3. CONDUCT OF TEST
Important Note:
In order to do permanent elongation test elasticity test must have been done and elasticity
value is already known.
3 samples will be prepared for each fabric containing elastic material to be tested. If the
fabric to be tested contains elastic material both at warp and weft, 1 sample will be prepared on
both directions.
New samples must be prepared for this test. Samples prepared for elasticity test must not be
used.
Conditioning:
Fabrics will be conditioned for at least 16 hours at a temperature of 200 C 20 C and a
humidity of %65 %4.
Three samples will be taken from the fabric, which do not contain the same weft and warp
yarns at the size 55 cm x 6 cm with long edge parallel to the elastic yarn. Sample must be reduced
to a width of 5 cm by drawing out yarns from both sides at equal quantity.
80% of the elasticity is calculated by the following formula:
80% elongation = E% x 0.80 x L / 100
L = Distance between marks at permanent elongation (50 cm).
The bottom jaw of static tester is switched to 0 and locked.
Sample is attached to the tester and both jaws are closed.

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As previously calculated, fabric is elongated by pulling downwards until it reaches at the


elongation value of 80%. After 30 minutes fabric is released and left in a flat place.
After 60 minutes, distance between marked points is measured and permanent elongation is
calculated by the following formula:
% permanent elongation = (L2-L) x 100 / L
L2 = The ultimate value measured between marked points
L = Initial value measured between marked points
4.4.4. EVALUATION
Findings are evaluated using relevant tables.
4.4.5. REPORTING
Findings will be put down in the test results form together with the pass/fail remark including
direction of test (weft-warp).

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4.5. TRIPLE WASH TEST FT18


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 7

TRIPLE WASH TEST


FT-18

4.5.1. PURPOSE
This test is done for the purpose of determining the post-wash deterioration at quality and
appearance of coated and adhesive products that are washed at domestic type washing machines.
4.5.2. MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
Domestic type washing machine
Thumble drier (unless otherwise mentioned in washing instructions)
White cotton fabric of 110-130 g/m2 .
White Polyester fabrics 204 x 204, 505g in weight

4.5.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST


Sample is weighted if it is a sewn finished product. Its weight is increased up to 2 kg with
100% white polyester fabrics weight in 50g5g. If the test is done on fabric, a sample of 30x30 will
be prepared. Its weight is increased up to 2 kg with 100% white polyester fabrics weight in 50g5g.
If the sample is more than 2 kg there is no need to increase the weight.
If a coated fabric is tested, it will be sewn on a white cotton fabric and tested with the
coated piece of 30x30 cm faces inward. Weight of the white cotton fabric to be used will be 110 to
130 g/m2.
If an adhesive fabric is to be tested, test will be done before folding.
Product will be washed at a temperature 20C higher than appearing in the instructions.
Washing and drying cycle is repeated for 3 times. If, before the second or the third washing cycle
you observe any problem like stripping of coats on fabric or detached adhesives, test will be
interrupted and it will be reported after how many tests deformation has occurred.
For washing cycle 50 g Ariel and 50 g softener is used.
Drying is done according to the washing instructions.
4.5.4. EVALUATION
The tested and the non-tested fabric are physically examined. During this examination, it is
controlled if coating quality is deteriorated, adhesives are detached or other physical defects
occurred.
Tolerance for deterioration on coated fabric is maximum 3 deteriorated points. In case of
deterioration on more than 3 points or deterioration larger than 1 mm2, test wills bee deemed failed.
For the Plush fabrics visual assessment is done by authorized people.
4.5.5. REPORTING
Physical examination results of the tested fabrics will be put down in the test results form.

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4.6. BAGGING TEST FT19


NAME
OF TEST
CODE

BAGGING

REFERENCE STANDARD
TEMA METHOD 11

FT-19

4.6.1. PURPOSE
This standard pertains determination of the strength of woven fabric again bagging or
elongation because of wearing.
4.6.2. EQUIPMENT TO BE USED
- Special holders as in Figure 1
- Ruler with Millimeter scale
- Weights of 900 grams, 1800 grams, 2250 grams
- A hanger or a hanger board having wedges for keeping samples in vertical position (figure
attached).
4.6.3. CONDUCT OF THE TEST
Amount of fabric elongation (elongation potential) is the amount, which is measured after
disposing the fabric sample to a tensile strength for a specified time according to the m2 weight of
fabric.
Three samples of 6 cm x 38 cm cut out at warp direction and three samples of 6 cm x 38 cm
cut out at weft direction are prepared for test purposes. Care must be exercised to take the test
samples from different parts to avoid using the same warp or weft yarn groups. The cut out fabrics
of 6 cm will be reduced to 5 cm by removing yarn at edges. Yarn removal must be done on both sides
of the fabric until at least one full length yarn is removed.
Test samples must be conditioned for 4 hours.
A distance of 25 cm from the edges is marked on the sample of 5 cm x 38 cm (figure 1).
Special holders are attached on both ends of the test sample. Then sample is hung vertically. The
bottom edge will be attached the weights that will be selected according to fabric weight as seen in
Chart 1.
CHART 1- The weights that will be selected according to fabric m2 weight
Weight applied(Gram)
m2 weight of fabric
Up to 130 grams
900
130-170 grams
1800
More than 170 grams
2250
After exposing to load for thirty minutes, the amount of elongation under load (sample is
under load) will be calculated by the following formula:
LY=Elongation under load
L= Initial Length (25 cm)
% Elongation under load = (LY - L)*100/L

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

20/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

The special holder will then be removed from the bottom edge and permanent elongation after
five minutes, 1 hour and 2 hours with reference to previously marked 25 cm length will be calculated
by the following formula:
LK= Permanent Elongation
% Permanent Elongation = (LK - L)*100/L

4.6.4. EVALUATION
The value found after 2 hours will be considered the basic finding. Values found after
exposing to load for 30 minutes, 5 minutes and 1 hour will be used as reference only.
4.6.5. REPORTING
The test finding for the fabric will be compared with the relevant tables and pass/fail
assessment will be made.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

21/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5. TABLES

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

22/51

PRODUCT TYPE

FT04
FT06

ISO 12945-1
ISO 13934-2

B
F
A
A
H
D
E
M
P

2
SKIRTS AND DRESSES
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
H
D
E
A
J
M
P

3
TROUSERS SHORTS
JOGGING SUITS
A
A
A
A
D
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
A
F
A
G
A
A
D
E
A
J
M

A
A
A
A
R
A
B
A
F
A
G
A
A
E
A
J

A
A
A
A
E
A
M

A
A
A
M

A
A

13
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY A
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY B
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY C
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)
OUTER WEAR CATEGORY D
(SEE PAGE 24 FOR EXPLAINING)

9
SWIMWEAR
A
A
A
A

10
TREKKING WEAR
A
A
A
A

11
LININGS
A
A
A
A

12
POCKET MATERIAL
(SEE BELOW EXPLANATION)
A
A
A
A

BONDED FABRICS

ALL PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES,


WITH ACCESSORIES
(GOLD SEAL SAMPLES)
HAND TOWELS, BATH TOWELS AND
15
BEACH TOWELS
A

A
A
C

D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D

A
D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D
A
E
A

A
A
D
A
C
B
R
A
B
F
A
A
A
H
D
A
E
A
A
M

A
A
A
A
C
B
R
A
B
A
A
A
E
A
A
M

A
C
B
R
A
B
A
A
A
E
A

C
B
A

A
A
A
BOTH BOTH BOTH
Sides Sides Sides

A
A

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)


A
A

A
A

A
OUTER
Side
C

R
A
B

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED


R
A
B

R
A
B

R
A
B

R
A
B

R
A
Both
Sides

F
A
A

F
A
A

A
A
A

A
A
A

14

G
E
A

D
E
A

D
E
A

D
A
A

A
A

Fastness tests are not required for white and natural colour fabric qualities.

23/51

FT17

ISO 811

TEMA METHOD 7 FT18

FT21

FT16

BS EN 22313

AATCC 118

TRIPLED WASH

FT15

ISO 13937-1

FT19

WATER PROOF

FT14

TEMA METHOD
12

WATER REPELLING
FT13

ISO 4920
TEMA METHOD
10
A

OIL RPELLING
(IMPROVING)

BAGGING
(IMPROVING)

WRINKLE RECOVERY
ANGLE

TEAR STRENGTH

POST-WASH
APPEARANCE

DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO DRY
CLEANING

PILE LOSS ON VELVET

TEMA METHOD 8 FT12

FT10

AATCC 93

ABRASSION

PERMANENT
ELONGATION

FT09

ISO 12947-2

SEAM SLIPPAGE

ELASTICITY

TENSILE STRENGTH

PILLING

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO WASHING

CROSS STAINING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SEA WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT PERSPIRATION
FASTNESS

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
RUBBING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
PERSPIRATION

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WATER

TEMA METHOD 3 FT11

FT08

ISO 13936-1

TEMA METHOD 2 FT07

TEMA METHOD 6 FT03

FT02

ISO 3801

FT01

ISO 3759
ISO 6330

HT12

TEMA METHOD 5 HT09

TEMA METHOD
13

TEMA METHOD 9 HT08

HT11

HT07

ISO 105 B07

ISO 105 E02

HT06

ISO 105 B02

HT10

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT

HT05

ISO 105 D01

SHIRTS AND BLOUSES


ISO 105 E03

PRINT DURABILITY

HT04

ISO 105 X12

1
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING

HT03

8
ISO 105 E04

7
HT02

6
ISO 105 E01

5
HT01

4 PRODUCTS MADE OF DENIM FABRIC


ISO 105 C06

NAMES OF TESTS

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.1. TABLE 1: TESTS REQUIRED ON WOVEN FABRIC AS PER PRODUCT TYPE

A
P

A
P

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.1.1. EXPLANATIONS OF TABLE 1


CODE
A
B
C
D
E
F
G
H
J
M
N
P
R

REMARKS
Each lot is tested,
Each colour is tested,
Only printed (in meter or in part) products and fabrics are tested,
Fabrics to be dry cleaned as per label instructions will be tested,
Tested if product has a contrast colour,
Blended and brushed fabrics are tested. Velvets are not tested,
Tested if it contains elastic yarn,
Only velvets are tested. Testing a single colour will be sufficient,
Tested if Easy care or Non-iron treatment is made,
It is required for Bonded and Coated fabrics,
It is required for the fabrics contain Regenerated Fibres,
It is required when Oil repelling is applied.
It is required for garments containing contrast colours

Product Categories of Outer Wear;


Category A: Products do not required Water Repelling and Water Proof, Felt Coats, Casual Coats
Category B: Products do not required Water Proof but required Water Repelling : Coating can be required for the hand feeling of
the fabric in this category, even that Water Proof test is not required,
Category C: Products required both Water Repelling and Water Proof, Coats,
Category D: Raincoats; Fabrics required for both Water Proof at 1500 mm level and Water Repelling at grade 4 according to the
test method.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

24/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

WEIGHT

PILLING

BURSTING STRENGTH

PILE LOSS

DRY CLEANING
SHRINKAGE

POST-WASH
APPEARANCE

FABRIC SAGGING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
PERSPIRATION

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
RUBBING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT AND
PERSPIRATIONS

PRINT DURABILITY

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SAE WATER

CROSS STAINING

FT03

FT04

FT05

FT10

FT12

FT14

FT20

HT01

HT02

HT03

HT04

HT05

HT06

HT07

HT08

HT09

HT10

HT11

HT12

FABRIC TYPES

ISO 3801

ISO 6330

ISO 12945-1

ISO 13938-2

AATCC 93

TEMA METHOD 8

TEMA METHOD 10

TEMA METHOD 11

ISO 105 C06

ISO 105 E01

ISO 105 E04

ISO 105 X12

ISO 105 D01

ISO 105 B02

ISO 105 B07

TEMA METHOD 9

TEMA METHOD 5

ISO 105 E03

ISO 105 E02

TEMA METHOD 13

100% COTTON FABRICS

COTTON POLYESTER OR COTTON ACRYLIC


FABRICS (MELANJ)

COTTON LYCRA BLEND FABRICS

VISCOSE LYCRA BLEND FABRICS

POLYESTER BLEND FABRICS (PLAIN DYE)

ACRYLIC BLEND FABRICS (PLAIN DYE)

WOOL BLEND FABRICS

100% POLYESTER POLARS

No

SPIRALIT
Y

DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO
WASHING

FT02

TESTS

FT01

ISO 6330
ISO 3759

5.2. TABLE 2. TESTS REQUIRED ON KNITTED FABRIC AS PER FABRIC TYPE

VELVET AND TOWEL FABRICS

10

PRINTED FABRICS (REACTIVE, PIGMENT)

11

WARP KNITTED FABRICS


(RACHEL MESH FABRICS)

12

SWIM-WEAR FABRICS

13

FUR FABRICS

14

BONDED FABRICS

15

ALL PRE-PRODUCTION SAMPLES, WITH


ACCESSORIES (GOLD SEAL SAMPLES)

16

FLAT KNITTING PRODUCTS

X
X
Both
sides

X
Done 3
times

X
X

X
X

X
X
X

X
Both
sides

X
Both
sides

X
Both
sides

X
Both
sides

X
Done 1
time

X
X

Colour fastness to dry cleaning and dimensional stability to dry cleaning tests are required for all fabrics, which has the label of dry
cleaning available. It is required for garments containing contrast colours.
DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

25/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.3. TABLE 3. FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (1/4)

TEST PERF
CODE

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WASHING
FABRIC BLENDS

COLOUR
FASTNESS TO
WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR
COLOUR
FASTNESS TO TO RUBBING (DRY FASTNESS TO
ONLY)
LIGHT
PERSPIRATION

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
LIGHT AND
PERSPIRATION
(SEE BELOW)

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
WET ALKALI LIGHT

CROSS STAINING

HT01

HT02

HT03

HT04

HT06

HT07

HT09

HT12

ISO 105 C06

ISO 105 E01

ISO 105 E04

ISO 105 X12

ISO 105 B02

ISO 105 B07

TEMA METHOD 5

TEMA METHOD 13

TRH01

100% COTTON

500 C B2S
S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH02

POLYESTER, NYLON AND


BLENDS

400 C A2S
S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH03

LINEN, VISCOSE, ACETATE AND


BLENDS

400 C A2S
S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH04

WOOL AND BLENDS

400 C A2S
S3/4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

Not Required

C4

S4/5

S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line at 40 C disregarding blend of cotton polyester and
cotton nylon fabrics.
Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric order sheet relevant unit must
indicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be under 4/5 level.
For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.
Colour fastness to rubbing test must be done outer (front) side of coated and printed woven fabrics, apart from these test must be
done inner (back) side of fabrics (regarding to usage of fabric).
Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

26/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.4. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (2/4)


COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
SEA WATER

COLOUR FASTNESS TO
DRY CLEANING

PRINT DURABILITY

POST-WASH
APPEARANCE

HT10

HT11

HT05

HT08

FT14

ISO 105 E03

ISO 105 E02

ISO 105 - DO1

TEMA METHOD 9

COTTON AND BLENDS

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH02

POLYESTER, NYLON AND BLENDS

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH03

LINEN , VISCOSE , ACETATE AND BLENDS

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH04

WOOL AND BLENDS

N/A

N/A

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TEST
PERF
CODE

TRH01

FABRIC BLEND

TEMA METHOD 10

S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and
cotton nylon blend fabrics.
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

27/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.5. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (3/4)


TEST
PERF
CODE

COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS TO


PERSPIRATION
TO WASHING
TO WATER
FABRIC BLEND

COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS TO
COLOUR FASTNESS
COLOUR FASTNESS
TO RUBBING
LIGHT AND PERSPIRATION
TO WET ALKALI
CROSS STAINING
TO LIGHT
(DRY ONLY)
(SEE BELOW)
LIGHT

HT01

HT02

HT03

HT04

HT06

HT07

HT09

HT12

ISO 105 C06

ISO 105 E01

ISO 105 E04

ISO 105 X12

ISO 105 B02

ISO 105 B07

TEMA METHOD 5

TEMA METHOD 13

TRH05

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS


SILK AND BLENDS

400 C A2S
S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH06

PIGMENT PRINTS

500 C B2S
S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S 4, C 4

S4

C4

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH07

PIGMENT DYES

500 C C2S
S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S 4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S4
(POST-WASH)

C4
(POST-WASH)

C 3/4

C4

S4/5

TRH08

INDIGO DENIM

500 C B2S
S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S 3/4, C 4
(POST-WASH)

S 3/4
(POST-WASH)

C4
(POST-WASH)

N/A

N/A

S4/5

S STAINING

C CHANGE

Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.

While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.

For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected as the fabric
contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and cotton nylon blend fabrics.

Cross Staining is for contrast colours when they used and stain each other. Therefore on the fabric order sheet relevant unit must
indicate that contrast colours will be used and required cross staining test. Staining value should not be under 4/5 level.

For special instructions on colour fastness to light and perspiration fastness see: PAGE 38
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1 level below.
For all weaving fabrics, colour fastness to rubbing test must be done reverse side of fabric.
Colour Fastness to Light level is considered C 3/4 for 100 % Polyester Polar and Fur fabrics.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

28/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.6. TABLE 3: FASTNESS TESTS ON CLOTHING FABRICS (4/4)


COLOUR FASTNESS TO
CHLORINATED WATER
TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC BLEND

COLOUR FASTNESS COLOUR FASTNESS TO DRY


CLEANING
TO SEA WATER

PRINT DURABILITY

POST-WASH APPEARANCE

HT10

HT11

HT05

HT08

FT14

ISO 105 E03

ISO 105 E02

ISO 105 - DO1

TEMA METHOD 9

TEMA METHOD 10

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS


SILK AND BLENDS

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH06

PIGMENT PRINTS

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH07

PIGMENT DYES

50 mg/lt
C4

S 4, C 4

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH08

INDIGO DENIM

N/A

N/A

C4

C4

S 4, C 4

TRH05

S STAINING
C CHANGE
Fastness tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
While selecting appropriate tests, the highest material in the blend under fabric blend column will be chosen.
For example, in case of a fabric containing 60% polyester, 20% viscose and 20% acrylic, the column for polyester blend will be selected
as the fabric contains more polyester in its blend. Test will be done as per TRH02 line disregarding blend ratio for cotton polyester and
cotton nylon blend fabrics.
For fluorescent colours (particularly swim-wear fabrics) the value for light fastness and colour fastness to water will be reduced 1
level below.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

29/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.7. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (1/2)


TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

DIMENSIONAL
STABILITY TO
WASHING

TENSILE STRENGTH

TEAR STRENGTH

SEAM SLIPPAGE

ABRASION

PILLING

WRINKLE RECOVERY
ANGLE

FT01

FT06

FT15

FT08

FT09

FT04

FT16

ISO 6330
ISO 3759

ISO 13934-1

ISO 13937-1

ISO 13936-1

ISO 12947-2

ISO 12945-1

EN 22313

600 C 2A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%

12 Kg

700 g

6 mm 8 Kg

10.000 RPM

15 Kg

900 g

6 mm 10 Kg

15.000 RPM

18.000 RPM
4

110

20 Kg

1000 g

6 mm 12 Kg

20.000 RPM

12 Kg

700 g

6 mm 8 Kg

10.000 RPM

15 Kg

900 g

6 mm 10 Kg

15.000 RPM

18.000 RPM
4

110

20 Kg

1000 g

6 mm 12 Kg

20.000 RPM

12 Kg

700 g

6 mm 8 Kg

10.000 RPM

15 Kg

900 g

6 mm 10 Kg

15.000 RPM

18.000 RPM
4

110

20 Kg

1000 g

6 mm 12 Kg

20.000 RPM

12 Kg

700 g

6 mm 8 Kg

10.000 RPM

15 Kg

900 g

6 mm 10 Kg

15.000 RPM

18.000 RPM
4

110

20 Kg

1000 g

6 mm 12 Kg

20.000 RPM

12 Kg

700 g

6 mm 8 Kg

10.000 RPM

15 Kg

900 g

6 mm 10 Kg

15.000 RPM

14.500 RPM
4

110

20 Kg

1000 g

6 mm 12 Kg

20.000 RPM

Below 160 g/m


TDFT01

100% COTTON

161-250 g/ m2
Over 251 g/ m2
Width elastic

TDFT02

TDFT03

COTTON AND COTTON


BLEND ELASTIC
FABRICS

LINEN AND BLENDS


REGENERATED
CELLULOSE AND
BLENDS

Length elastic
Width-Length elastic
Below 160 g/ m2
2

161-250 g/ m

Over 251 g/ m

Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT04

100% SYNTHETIC AND


BLENDS

161-250 g/ m

Over 251 g/ m

Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT05

ALL BLENDS
CONTAINING WOOL

161-250 g/ m2
2

Over 251 g/ m

500 C 4A TD
at elastic yarn
direction
MAX +3%, -5%
at non-elastic yarn
direction
MAX 3%
500 C 4A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
5%

400 C 5A TD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%

400 C 5A FD
MAX WIDTH LENGTH
3%

Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
Seam slippage value will be taken 5.5 kg for 6 mm for linen and linen blended fabrics below 160 g/m2 in the shirts group.
Dimensional stability to washing values of linings must be examined considering the base fabric.
Abrasion test is not required for velour and corduroy fabrics.
In linen and linen blends fabrics, abrasion test level is required 10 000 RPM without considering the fabric weight.
Abrasion and Pilling tests are not required for the fabrics, which consist flament yarn in both warp and weft and do not applied any
surface brushing process.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

30/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.8. TABLE 4: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON WOVEN FABRICS (2/2)


ELASTCTY
TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

PILE LOSS

PERMANENT
ELONGATION

DRY CLEANING
SHRINKAGE

WATER
REPELL

WATER
PERMEABILITY

TRIPLED
WASHING

BAGGING
(IMPROVING)

OIL
REPELLING

FT02

FT10

FT11

FT12

FT13

FT17

FT18

FT19

FT21

FT07

FT03

TEMA METHOD
2

TEMA
METHOD 6

ISO 3801

AATCC 93

TEMA METHOD 3

TEMA METHOD 8

ISO 4920

ISO 811

TEMA METHOD
TEMA METHOD 7
11

N/A

3%

5%

BY WEIGHT 16%

N/A

WIDTH, LENGTH
3%

1000 mm

NO
DETERIORATION

3 % MAX.

3%

5%

BY WEIGHT 16%

4%

WIDTH, LENGTH
3%

N/A

NO
DETERIORATION

N/A

N/A

3%

5%

BY WEIGHT 16%

N/A

WIDTH, LENGTH
3%

1000 mm

NO
DETERIORATION

3 % MAX.

N/A

3%

5%

BY WEIGHT 16%

N/A

WIDTH, LENGTH
3%

1000 mm

NO
DETERIORATION

3 % MAX.

N/A

3%

5%

BY WEIGHT 16%

N/A

WIDTH, LENGTH
3%

N/A

NO
DETERIORATION

3 % MAX.

AATCC 118

Below 160 g/m


TDFT01

100% COTTON

161-250 g/ m2
2

Over 250 g/ m

TDFT02

COTTON AND COTTON


BLEND ELASTIC
FABRICS

LINEN AND BLENDS


REGENERATED
CELLULOSE AND
BLENDS

TDFT03

Width elastic

%20

Length elastic

%20

Width-Length
elastic

%15

Below 160 g/ m2
161-250 g/ m2
2

Over 250 g/ m

Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT04

100% SYNTHETIC AND


BLENDS

161-250 g/ m2
2

Over 250 g/ m

Below 160 g/ m2
TDFT05

ALL BLENDS
CONTAINING WOOL

161-250 g/ m2
2

Over 250 g/ m

Performance tests must be done after fabric is washed during production for all products, which will be subject to industrial washing.
Water permeability must be 1500 mm for raincoats.
At pile loss test on velvet, colour change must also be evaluated.
Spirality test is not required for Basic and Panama weave.
Permanent Elongation and Elasticity tests are not required for Shirts, Skirts and Blouses.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

31/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.9. TABLE 5 : PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (1/4)


TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

ISO 6330
ISO 3759

ISO 12945-2

ISO 6330

ISO 3801

AATCC 93
ACCELATOR

ISO 13938-2

TEMA METHOD 11

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO
WASHING

PILLING

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

PILE LOSS

BURSTING STRENGTH

DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)

FT01

FT04

FT03

FT02

FT10

FT05 (50 cm2 diaphram space,


diaphragm strength not reduced)

FT20

7200 RPM
4

4%

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT01

100% COTTON JERSEYS

2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: %-6, LENGTH:%-6

TOFT02

100% VISCOSE AND BLENDS


JERSEYS

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
4

4%

TOFT03

COTTON / POLYESTER JERSEYS

5 %

TOFT04

SHORT STAPLE POLYESTER AND BLENDS


JERSEYS

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT05

FILAMENT POLYESTER JERSEYS

2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT06

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS JERSEYS

5A-400 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

7200 RPM
4

4%

5 %

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT07

JERSEYS CONTAINING WOOL

40 C ELDE YIKAMA FD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

32/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.10. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (2/4)


ISO 6330
ISO 3759
TEST
PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING

FT01

ISO 12945-2

ISO 6330

ISO 3801

AATCC 93
ACCELATOR

PILLING

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

PILE LOSS

FT03

FT02

FT10

4%

5%

N/A

TOFT08

100% COTTON INTERLOCK RIB AND MILANO

2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-7%

FT04
7200 RPM
4

TOFT09

100% VISCOSE AND BLENDS INTERLOCK RIB MILANO

5A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

TOFT10

COTTON POLYESTER INTERLOCK RIB MILANO

TOFT11

FILAMENT-NYLON PES INTERLOCK RIB MILANO

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

TOFT12

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS INTERLOCK RIB MILANO

4A-400 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

TOFT13

INTERLOCK RIB MILANO CONTAINING WOOL

400 C HAND WASH, FD


WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH :5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

ISO 13938-2

BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm
strength not reduced)

TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL
CHANGE TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)
FT20

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

33/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.11. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (3/4)


ISO 6330
ISO 3759
TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

ISO 12945-2

ISO 6330

ISO 3801

AATCC 93
ACCELATOR

ISO 13938-2

TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY TO
WASHING

PILLING

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

PILE LOSS

FT04
7200 RPM
4

FT03

FT02

FT10

BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm strength
not reduced)

4%

5%

N/A

160 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

FT20

TOFT14

100% COTTON
3 YARN-2 YARN 2 YARN PIQUE

FT01
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

TOFT15

100% VISCOSE AND BLENDS 3


YARN.2YARN.2YARN.PIQUE

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

170 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

COTTON POLYESTER AND BLENDS


3 YARN.2YARN 2 YARN PIQUE

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

170 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT17

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS


3 YARN.2 YARN. 2 YARN PIQUE

5A-40 C TD
WIDTH: -7%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

170 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT18

100% COTTON PIQUE

2A-600 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT19

VISCOSE AND BLENDS PIQUE

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH: -6%, LENGTH:-6%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

2A-60 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT16

TOFT20

COTTON POLYESTER AND BLENDS


PIQUE

TOFT21

ACRYLIC AND BLENDS PIQUE

5A-40 C TD
WIDTH: -5%, LENGTH:-5%

7200 RPM
3

4%

5%

N/A

145 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT22

PIQUE CONTAINING WOOL

400 C HAND WASH FD


WIDTH:-5, LENGTH:-5

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

34/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.12. TABLE 5: PHYSICAL PERFORMANCE TESTS ON KNITTED FABRICS (4/4)


ISO 6330
ISO 3759
TEST PERF
CODE

FABRIC TYPE

ISO 12945-2

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY
TO WASHING

ISO 6330

ISO 3801

AATCC 93
ACCELATOR

PILLING

SPIRALITY

WEIGHT

PILE LOSS

ISO 13938-2

TEMA METHOD 11
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
TEST
(FABRIC SAGGING)

FT01
2A-600 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5

FT04

FT03

FT02

FT10

BURSTING STRENGTH
FT05 (50 cm2 diaphragm
space, diaphragm strength
not reduced)

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

N/A

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

FT20

TOFT23

100% POLYESTER POLAR

TOFT24

COTTON AND BLENDS TOWEL


AND VELVETS

2A-600 C TD
WIDTH :5
LENGTH :5

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

BY WEIGHT 4%

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

TOFT25

VISCOSE AND BLENDS TOWEL


AND VELVETS

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5

7200 RPM
4

4%

5%

BY WEIGHT 4%

150 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

NOT APPLIED

%4

%5

NOT APPLIED

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

7200 RPM
4

%4

%5

NOT APPLIED

180 KPA

2 %
WIDTH LENGTH

7200 RPM
3
(40 C HAND WASH FD)

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

N/A

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5

TOFT26

FUR FABRICS

TOFT27

WARP KNITTED FABRICS


(RACHEL)

4A-500 C TD
WIDTH:-5
LENGTH:-5

TOFT28

FLAT KNITTED PRODUCTS

N/A

For all fabric blends: Dimensional stability to washing test will be 500 C TD width: -6% length: -6% for knitted fabric containing elastic
material up to 5%.
For all fabric blends: For knitted fabrics containing more than 5% elastic material, dimensional stability to washing test will also be
valid for the non-elastic of the fabric in the list.
For models with zipper, dimensional stability to washing at length will be maximum TD 3% for all fabric types. Wash method will be
chosen from the table depending on fabric type. For trousers, spirality will be maximum 3% for all fabric types.
Dimensional stability to dry cleaning tolerance will be -3% for width and length for all fabric types under normal dry cleaning
conditions.
Fabric release test will be done for all fabrics and its tolerance will be 2% for width and length.
Fabric release test tolerances will be 2 % for width and length in the Dimensional stability test.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

35/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.13. TABLE 6: REFERENCES OF STANDARDS AND REQUIRED SAMPLE QUANTITIES


5.13.1. Reference Standards of Physical & Performance Tests and Colour Fastness Tests and
Required Sample Quantities
REFERENCE
NAME

STANDARD

TEST NAME

REQUIRED
SAMPLE QUANTITIES

COLOUR FASTNESS
HT01
ISO 105 C06
HT02
ISO 105 E01
HT03
ISO 105 E04

CF TO WASHING
CF TO WATER
CF TO PERSPIRATION

HT04
HT05
HT06
HT07
HT08

CF TO RUBBING
CF TO DRY CLEANING
CF TO LIGHT
CF TO PERSPIRATION & LIGHT
PRINT DURABILITY

If the sample is one colour, 4x10 cm.


If the sample is one colour, 4x10 cm.
If the sample is one colour, two times 4x10
cm.
If the sample is one colour 30x30 cm
15x15 cm
If the sample is one colour, 5x5 cm
If the sample is one colour, 5x10 cm
There is no standard measurement, depends
on the print size and repeating. Most
important issue is that there must be two
same samples, one is performed for testing
and the other is kept as reference.
If the sample is one colour, 5x5 cm
15x15 cm
15x15 cm
5x10 cm

ISO 105 X12


ISO 105 D01
ISO 105 B02
ISO 105 B07
TEMA METHOD9

HT09
TEMA METHOD5
HT10
ISO 105 E03
HT11
ISO 105 E02
HT12
TEMA METHOD12
PHYSICAL (PERFORMANCE ) TESTS

CF TO WET ALKALI LIGHT


CF TO CHLORINATED WATER
CF TO SEA WATER
CROSS STAINING

FT01

DIMENSIONAL STABILITY

FT15
FT16
FT17
FT18
FT19

ISO 6330 ISO


3759
ISO 3801
ISO 6330
ISO 12945-1
ISO 13938-2
ISO 13934-2
TEMA METHOD2
ISO 13936-1
ISO 12947-2
AATCC 93
TEMA METHOD3
TEMA METHOD8
ISO 4920
TEMA METHOD
10
ISO 13937-1
BS EN 22313
ISO 811
TEMA METHOD7
TEMA METHOD12

FT20

TEMA METHOD11

FT21

AATCC 118

FT02
FT03
FT04
FT05
FT06
FT07
FT08
FT09
FT10
FT11
FT12
FT13
FT14

WEIGHT
SPIRALITY
PILLING
BURSTING STRENGTH
TENSILE STRENGTH
ELASTICITY
SEAM SLIPPAGE
ABRASION
PILE LOSS
PERMANENT ELONGATION
DRY CLEANING SHRINKAGE
WATER REPELLING
POST-WASH APPEARENCE
TEARING STRENGTH
WRINKLE RECOVERY ANGLE
WATER PROOF
TRIPLE WASH
BAGGING
DIMENSIONAL CHANGE
( FABRIC SAGGING )
OIL REPELLING

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

60x60 cm
60x60 cm
60 cm in full width
50x50 cm
60x100 cm
60 cm in full width
100 cm in full width
70 cm in full width
30x20 cm
50x50 cm
100 cm in full width
60x60 cm
50 cm in full width
If the sample is one colour 30x30 cm,
If the sample is garment, 2 garments
40 cm in full width
50x50 cm
50 cm in full width
20x20 cm
----------------------------------60x60 cm
40x40 cm, 3 samples

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

36/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

5.13.2. Reference Standards of Ecological Tests and Required Sample Quantities


TEST
CODES
AT-1
AT-2

TEST NAMES

TEST STANDARD

Formaldehit
Ph

JAPAN LAW 112 (JIS L1041) (UV-VS)


BS EN 1413
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-10/M11 (ICP-MS)
Ref=DIN 38406 : E29
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-6 Part A and Part B
EPA 1618 E13,E14 (GC/MS veya GC/ECD)
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-7
Ref= DIN 53313 : E15 (PCP-TeCP) : E28 (OPP)
(GC/MS veya GC/ECD)

AT-3

Exrtractable Heavy Metals

AT-4

Pesticides

AT-5

Clorinated Phenols

AT-6B

AZO Dyes (Cotton and Cotton


Blends, except Polyester)
AZO Dyes (Polyester)

AT-6C

AZO Dyes (Polyester Blends)

AT-6D

AZO Dyes (Leathers)


Allergenic Dyestuffs (Dispers
Dyes)

AT-6A

AT-7A

AT-7B

Carcinogenic Dyestuffs

AT-8

Chlorine Benzens and Toluens

AT-9

Biological Active Agents

AT-10

Phatalates in PVC (Total)

AT-11

PCBs PCTs

AT-12

Organo Tin Compounds


TBT/MBT/DBT/TeBT

AT-13A

Nickel

AT-13B

Nickel

AT-14
AT-15
AT-16
AT-17

Cadmium in Plastic Prints


PVC Determination
Saliva Fastness
Toxicity

AT-18

Crom (VI)

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

RIQUIRED SAMPLE
AMOUNT
Min 5 g
Min 10g
Each Colour - min 1g
Min 10g
Min 10 g

35 LMBG: 82.02.02 (DIN EN 14362-1)


35 LMBG: 82.02.04 (DIN EN 14362-2)
35 LMBG: 82.02.02 (DIN EN 14362-1)
35 LMBG: 82.02.04 (DIN EN 14362-2)
35 LMBG: 82.02.03 (DIN 53316)
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-4
EDIN NMP 512 (HPLC-DAD-MSD)
Banned Azo Dyes and Allergenic (Dispers)
Dyestuff Tests
Evaluation is done According do results (HPLCDAD MSD)
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-2
E: 20 (GC/MS veya GC/ECD)
Only the given list can be used
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M18
E: 39 (GS/MS veya HPLC-DAD)
Ref: DIN 51527-1
EPA 3545 E: 23 (GC/MS veya GC-ECD)
Oeko-Tex Std. 201 M-17
Ref: DIN 38407 : 13 E: 24
(GC/MSD)
DIN EN 1811 Nickel (Coated and uncoated)
DIN EN 12472 Coating apart from Nickel
Coatings (ICP-MS)
EN 1122 (ICP-MS)
Beilstein Burning test
DIN 53160-1 (ICP-MS)
EN 71-Part 3 (ICP-MS)
DIN 53314 (UV-VIS)
Cr VI is performed when Total Crom is more
than 0,5 ppm

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

Each Colour - min 1 g

Each Colour - min 1 g

Each Colour - min 1 g

Min 5g
Each Colour - min 1g
Min 5g
Each Colour - min 5 g
Minimum two samples
Minimum two samples
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g
Each Colour - min 1 g

37/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

6. ADDITIONAL INSTRUCTIONS

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

38/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

6.1. SPECIAL INSTRUCTION IN LIGHT PERSPIRATION FASTNESS


Perspiration light fastness will not be sought for our all winter season thick fabrics except
the products that will be used in summer because of its model and fabric type. These fabrics are
the following (knitted and woven):
Knitted:
3 yarn, 2 yarn (20/10 brushed, non-brushed),
Velvet and towels (plain and engineered stripe),
Polars,
Milano (plain and engineered stripe),
30/2 ve 20/1 plain and engineered stripe ribs (brushed, stoned, non-brushed),
30/1, 20/1 and 24/1 plain and engineered stripe interlocks (brushed, sanded and nonbrushed),
30/2 and 20/2 supreme (brushed, sanded and non-brushed),
Woven;
Velvets, wool fabric, thick shirt fabrics, flannel type fabrics. Also the thick fabrics that
cannot be worn as from April.
For the fabrics, which are shown above but which could be used in summer, perspiration light
fastness tests will be conducted. For example, 30/1 interlock might be used in summer season
therefore decision will be made depending on at what season it is manufactured.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

39/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

7. ECOLOGICAL TESTS

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

40/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

7.1. ECOLOGICAL TESTS


The enclosed table depicts ecological criteria. In some of these criteria, none of the
restricted chemicals must have been used whilst in some others; such chemicals must be lower than
the values shown in the table. The list of restricted chemicals and dying agents pertaining to these
criteria are given in the pages following the tables.
Listed restricted chemicals and dying agents
Pesticides
Heavy metals
Aril amine groups azo dying reagents release
Carcinogen and allergic dying reagents
Chlorine benzene and toluenes
Restricted PVC plasticizers (Phthalates)
For the listed chemicals and dying agents the list of Oekotex 100 standards is the basic
reference. Any amendment in Oekotex 100 will also be reflected in these lists.
Uptodate reference list can be found in the web site http:\\www.oekotex.com.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

41/51

TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

7.2. ECOLOGICAL TEST STANDARDS


Limit Values.

Parameters
1
2

Products not in direct contact with skin


A.

Formaldehit
PH Value
Metals (Extractable)

< 300 ppm


4,0 9,0
< 1,0 ppm

< 1,0 ppm

< 0,2 ppm

< 30,0 ppm

< 30,0 ppm

< 30,0 ppm

lead Pb
(see note 2)

< 1,0 ppm

< 1,0 ppm

< 0,2 ppm

cadmium Cd

< 0,1 ppm

< 0,1 ppm

< 0,1 ppm

mercury Hg
(see note 1)

< 0,02 ppm

< 0,02 ppm

< 0,02 ppm

copper Cu

chrome VI

< 50,0 ppm


< 2,0 ppm
< 0.5 ppm

< 50,0 ppm


< 2,0 ppm
< 0.5 ppm

< 25,0 ppm


< 1,0 ppm
< 0.5 ppm

cobalt Co

< 4,0 ppm

< 4,0 ppm

< 1,0 ppm

nikcel Ni

< 4,0 ppm

< 4,0 ppm

< 1,0 ppm

Pesticides
Total pesticide concentrate

Listed Pesticides in Chapter 7.3.4


< 1 ppm

Listed Pesticides in Chapter 7.3.4


< 1 ppm

Listed Pesticides in Chapter 7.3.4


< 1 ppm

Listed Chlorine Phenols in Chapter


7.3.5
< 0,5 ppm
< 0.5 ppm
< 100 ppm

Listed Chlorine Phenols in Chapter


7.3.5
< 0,5 ppm
< 0.5 ppm
< 100 ppm

Listed Chlorine Phenols in Chapter


7.3.5
< 0,5 ppm
< 0.5 ppm
< 50 ppm

(including PCP and TeCP)


Chlorine Phenols

Pentachlorophenol (PCP)
2,3,5,6-Tetra- chlorophenol (TeCP),
Orthopenylephenol (OPP)

AZO-dyes

7a

Allergenic Dyes

7b

Carcinogenic Dyes

Chlorine benzene and toluens

Biologically active agents

10

Phatalates in PVCs

12

< 20 ppm
4,0 - 7,5

antimone Sb

chrome Cr total

11

Baby and childware (Note 0)


C.

< 75 ppm
4,0 - 7,5

arcenik As
(see note 1)

Products in direct contact with skin


B.

PCBs
PCTs
TBT
DBT
MBT

13

Nickel test

14
15
16

Cadmium in Plastic Prints


PVC Determination
Salvia

< 20 ppm.
Listed AZO-dyes in Chapter 7.3.6.1 and 7.3.6.2
< 50 ppm
Listed Allergic dyes in Chapter 7.3.8.2
Must be nil
Listed Carcinogen dyes in Chapter 7.3.8.1
< 1 ppm
Listed Chlorine benzene and toluens in Chapter 7.3.7
Must be nil
0,10%
Listed Chemical Substances in Chapter 7.3.9.2
< 0.5 ppm

< 0.5 ppm

< 0.05 ppm

< 1 ppm

< 1 ppm

< 0.5 ppm

0.5 g/cm2/week
%0,01
Not applied
Only required for baby products

S4

Toxicity

17

Sb

60 ppm

As

25 ppm

Ba

1000 ppm

Cd

75 ppm

Cr

60 ppm

Pb

90 ppm

Hg

60 ppm

Se

500 ppm

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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Note 0 ) Baby Group consist of ages 0 3 ( including age 3 ),


Note 1 ) Only for natural material and accessories,
Note 2 ) Only for natural materials,
Note 3 ) Restricted materials are enclosed,
Note 4 ) Toxicity test is required only for accessories,
Note 5 ) It is looked to the Table 5.13.2 for the test methods.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

7.3. ECOLOGICAL TESTS REFERENCES


7.3.1. BIOLOGIC ACTIVE AGENTS (AT09)
Fibre Materials With Biological Active Properties
Name Of The Product
Amicor Breathe
Amicor Plus
Amicor Pure
Amipure
ASOTA AM
Fillwell Wellcera AntiDustmite Fibres
Lyocell-Spezialfaser SeaCell
Active
New Tafel Parclean
Shieldex Silverline

Country
GB
GB
GB
GB
A
Rep. Of Ireland

Producer
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
Acordis Acrylic Fibres, Bradford
ASOTA Ges.m.b.H., Linz
Wellman International Ltd.

Alceru Schwarza GmbH, Rudolstadt

J
D

Trevira Bioactive
Trevira Bioactive E2
Trevira CS Bioactive
X-Static Fibre

D
D
D
USA

Mitsubishi Rayon Co., Ltd.


Statex Produktions + Vertriebs GmbH,
Bremen
Trevira GmbH, Boningen
Trevira GmbH, Boningen
Trevira GmbH, Boningen
Noble Fiber Technologies, Inc. Scranton,
PA

Auxiliaries For Biological Active Finish


Name Of The Product
Actifresh T 20-10
ACTIGARD AM 21-16
ACTIGARD AM 23-13
AEM 5772 (Aegis Microbe Shield)
Antimicrobial AlphaSan RC 2000
Antimicrobial AlphaSan RC 5000
APPEARTEX 100
Ciba MITIN FF (HC and FL)
Ciba TINOSAN AM 110
Ciba TINOSAN AM 110 NEW
Coopex 50 N
Eulan SPA 01
HEALTHGUARD PLB
Microban Liquid Formulation 9200-200
MICROSTOP PROFYL OK 28

Country
CH
CH
CH
B
USA
USA
S
CH
CH
CH
F
D
AU
USA
F

Reputex 20
SANITIZED T96-20
SANITIZED T96-22
SANITIZED T99-19
SANITIZED TPL 20-02
SARPU
THEA-FLAN (30A, 30E)
Troysan Polyphase P-100
ULTRA-FRESH NM 100
ULTRA-FRESH NM-V2

GB
CH
CH
CH
CH
D
J
NL
CAN
CAN

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

Producer
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Sanitized AG, Burgdorf
Devan Chemicals NV, Ronse-Renaix
Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg
Milliken Chemical, Spartanburg
Appeartex AB, Gteborg
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Ciba Specialitiy Chemicals Inc., Basel
Vikem-Kwizda, Marly le Roi
Bayer Chemicals AG, Leverkusen
Global Speciality Chemicals, Campbellfield
Microban Products Company, Huntersville
Breyner, Traitements bio-actives pour textiles,
Vienne
Arch UK Biocides Ltd, Castleford
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
Sanitzed AG, Burgdorf
DKSH GmbH, Hamburg
ITO EN, LTD, Sizuoka-ken
Troy Chemical Company BV, Maasluis
Thomson Research Associates, Toronto
Thomson Research Associates, Toronto

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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7.3.2. FORMALDEHYDE (AT01)


Description: Formaldehyde is a volatile colorless gas and found in small quantities in
atmosphere, tobacco, glue and air pollution. Formaldehyde is contaminant parallel to its volatile
nature. If a cloth containing formaldehyde is put on another clothe, it will be contaminated by
formaldehyde. Formaldehyde can cause allergy, itching and eczema. The fabric samples that are
required for testing must be packed and put into pouches individually.
Use: Formaldehyde and the agents releasing formaldehyde is used for shrink-proof finishing,
crease-proof finishing, preserving dyed and print and fixing.
7.3.3. PH (AT02)
Description: Ph value represents if solutions are acidic or alkali. Lower values indicate acidic
solutions whilst high values show alkali solutions. High PH values (over 8) cause skin sensitivity,
redness and itching. Very high PH values cause burns on human skin. The fabric samples that are
required for testing must be packed and put into pouches individually.
Various chemicals, metals used in textile, clothe production; product washing and finishing
determine final PH values. Chemicals that are used for mercerization process have high PH values.
Textile products undergo processes with various basic and acidic substances during finishing
operations. Basic or acidic residues on a textile product can irritate skin in humid environment. In
order to prevent that, the PH value of textile products must be the same or close to the pH valid of
human skin (about pH=5,5).
Textile products that are properly washed and neutralized usually create no problems in
conforming to these values.
7.3.4. HEAVY METAL IONS (AT03)
Heavy metal ions on textile products usually originate from either fibers or dyes used. Due to
the toxicological values of heavy metals, textile products must contain them below a definite limit.
The heavy metals are arsenic, lead, cadmium, cobalt, chrome (total), chrome VI, nickel, copper,
mercury and antimony.
7.3.5. RESTRICTED PESTICIDES (AT04)
Description: Pesticides are contained in fertilizers and agricultural medicine that are used at
growing of natural fibers (as cotton) and do not get decomposed until final use.
They increase the toxic substances in humans and animals. This may give harm to
reproduction, hormonal and immunity systems of humans and animals. It is suspected that some
pesticides carry carcinogen substances.
Use: Pesticides are used at growing plants, animals or natural fibers in order to prevent
reproduction of insects.
NO

Name

CAS-No.

NO

Name

CAS- No

NO

Name

CAS- No.

2,4,5-T

93-76-5

19

DDE

3424-82-6, 72-55-9

37

Hexachlorcyclohexane

319-86-8

2,4-D

94-75-7

20

DDT

50-29-3, 789-02-6

38

Lindane

58-89-9

Azinophosmethyl

86-50-0

21

Diazinon

333-41-5

39

Malathion

121-75-5

Azinophosethyl

2642-71-9

22

Dichlorprop

120-36-2

40

MCPA

94-74-6

Aldrine

309-00-2

23

Dicrotophos

141-66-2

41

MCPB

94-81-5

Bromophos-ethyl

4824-78-6

24

Dieldrine

60-57-1

42

Mecoprop

93-65-2

Captafol

2425-06-1

25

Dimethoate

60-51-5

43

Metamidophos

10265-92-6

Carbaryl

63-25-2

26

Dinoseb ve tuzlar

88-85-7

44

Methoxychlor

72-43-5

Chlordane

57-74-9

27

Endosulfan, -

115-29-7

45

Mirex

2385-85-5

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02


10

Chlordimeform

1970-95-9

28

Endosulfan, -

33213-65-9

46

Monocrotophos

6923-22-4

11

Chlorfenvinphos

470-90-6

29

Endrine

72-20-8

47

Parathion

56-38-2

12

Coumaphos

56-72-4

30

Esfenvalerate

66230-04-4

48

Parathion-methyl

298-00-0

13

Cyfluthrin

68359-37-5

31

Fenvalerate

51630-58-1

49

Phosdrin/Mevinphos

7786-34-7

14

Cyhalothrin

91465-08-06

32

Heptachlor

76-44-8

50

Propethamphos

31218-83-4

15

Cypermethrin

52315-07-8

33

Heptachloroepoxide

1024-57-3

51

Profenophos

41198-08-7

16

DEF

34

Hexachlorobenzene

118-74-1

52

Quinalphos

13593-03-8

17

Deltamethrin

52918-63-5

35

Hexachlorcyclohexane

319-84-6

53

Toxaphene

8001-35-2

18

DDD

53-19-0, 72-54-8

36

Hexachlorcyclohexane

319-85-7

54

Trifluralin

1582-09-8

7.3.6. CHLORINE PHENOLS (AT05)


Pentachlorophenol (PCP), Tetrachlorophenol (TeCP), o-Phenyl phenol (OOP) are used as
preservatives for raw materials and ready garments (fungicide, anti-bacterial) preventing molding
of products during long transports. They can produce very poisonous substances by reacting with
other substances in the environment.
7.3.7. RESTRICTED AZO DYES (AT06)
Description: Some AZO dyes cause formation of free amino groups after dyeing. 4 of these
free amino groups are identified as absolutely carcinogenic whilst 20 of them are identified as likely
carcinogenic. The listed free amino groups must be lower than the specified limits for dyed fabrics.
Use: Dyeing of textile, plastics and leather products.
7.3.7.1. MAK III, category 1
NO

Name

CAS-No.

4-Aminobiphenyl

92-67-1

Benzidine

92-87-5

2
3
4

4-Chloro-o-toluidine 95-69-2
2-Naphthylamine

91-59-8

7.3.7.2. MAK III, category 2


NO

Name

CAS-No.

99-55-8

11

4,4-Methylene-bis(2-chloroaniline)

101-14-4

p-Chloroaniline

106-47-8

12

4,4'-Oxydianiline

101-80-4

2,4-Diaminoanisole

615-05-4

13

4,4'-Thiodianiline

139-65-1

4,4'-Diaminobiphenylmethane 101-77-9

14

o-Toluidine

95-53-4

2,4-Toluylendiamine

95-80-7

NO

Name

CAS-No.

o-Aminoazotoluene

97-56-3

2-Amino-4-nitrotoluene

3
4
5
6

3.3'-Dichlorobenzidine

91-94-1

15

3,3'-Dimethoxybenzidine

119-90-4

16

3,3'-Dimethylbenzidine

119-93-7

17

o-Anisidine

3,3'-Dimethyl-4,4'diaminobiphenylmethane

18

2,4-Xylidine

95-68-1

838-88-0

19

2,6-Xylidine

87-62-7

p-Cresidine

120-71-8

20

4-Aminoazobenzene

60-09-3

10

2,4,5-Trimethylaniline 137-17-7
90-04-0

There is not an international accepted test method for 4-Aminoazobenzene


7.3.8. CHLORINE BENZENE AND TOLUENE (AT08)
Description: Chlorine benzenes can affect nervous system. Furthermore they can irritate skin
and fluid secreting membranes. Most types of chlorine hydro carbons do not get decomposed in
nature. They penetrate into human and animal bodies.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

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Use: Chlorine Benzenes are used in dyeing polyester or wool-polyester blends. Also they can
be used as solvents.
NO

Name

NO

Name

Dichlorobenzenes

Chlorotoluenes

Trichlorobenzenes

Dichlorotoluenes

Tetrachlorobenzenes

Trichlorotoluenes

Pentachlorobenzenes

Tetrachlorotoluenes

Hexachlorobenzene

10

Pentachlorotoluene

7.3.9. RESTRICTED CARCINOGEN AND ALLERGIC DYES (AT07)


Description: The dye-stuff in Table 7.1.8. is described as carcinogenic whilst the dye-stuff in
table 7.1.8.2 is described as allergic.
Use: Mostly they are used to dye polyester fibers. But they are also used for dyeing other
man-made fibers as polyamide, acetate, and viscose.
7.3.9.1. CARCINOGEN DYES
NO

C.I. Generic Name

C.I. Structure no.

CAS-No.

C.I. Acid Red 26

C.I. 16 150

3761-53-3

C.I. Basic Red 9

C.I. 42 500

25620-78-4

C.I. Basic Violet 14

C.I. 42 510

632-99-5

C.I. Direct Black 38

C.I. 30 235

1937-37-7

C.I. Direct Blue 6

C.I. 22 610

2602-46-2

C.I. Direct Red 28

C.I. 22 120

573-58-0

C.I. Disperse Blue 1

C.I. 64 500

2475-45-8

C.I. Disperse Orange 11

C.I. 60 700

82-28-0

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

C.I. 11 855

2832-40-8

7.3.9.2. ALLERGIC DYES


NO

C.I. Generic Name

C.I. Structure no

CAS-No

NO

C.I. Generic Name

C.I. Structure no

C.I. Disperse Blue 1

C.I. 64 500

2475-45-8

12

C.I. Disperse Orange 37

C.I. 11 132

C.I. Disperse Blue 3

C.I. 61 505

2475-46-9

13

C.I. Disperse Orange 76

C.I. 11 132

C.I. Disperse Blue 7

C.I. 62 500

3179-90-6

14

C.I. Disperse Red 1

C.I. 11 110

2872-52-8

C.I. Disperse Blue 26

C.I. 63 305

15

C.I. Disperse Red 11

C.I. 62 015

2872-48-2

C.I. Disperse Blue 35

12222-75-2

16

C.I. Disperse Red 17

C.I. 11 210

3179-89-3

C.I. Disperse Blue 102

12222-97-8

17

C.I. Disperse Yellow 1

C.I. 10 345

119-15-3

C.I. Disperse Blue 106

12223-01-7

18

C.I. Disperse Yellow 3

C.I. 11 855

2832-40-8

C.I. Disperse Blue 124

61951-51-7

19

C.I. Disperse Yellow 9

C.I. 10 375

6373-73-5

C.I. Disperse Brown 1

23355-64-8

20

C.I. Disperse Yellow 39

21

C.I. Disperse Yellow 49

10

C.I. Disperse Orange 1

C.I. 11 080

2581-69-3

11

C.I. Disperse Orange 3

C.I. 11 005

730-40-5

7.3.10.

CAS-No.

POLYVINYLCHLORIDE (PVC)

7.3.10.1. PVC (AT15)


Description: PVC is a plastic that can be available in soft or hard, transparent or coloured
forms. The materials that are used to produce PVC or PVC itself can contain substances, which are

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

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or might be poisonous. For example phthalate, cadmium, lead. When PVC is heated and burned, there
is a risk of emitting hazardous substances to the environment.
Use: It is used in textile sector for producing PVC soft plastic accessories (labels, zippers) or
for coating fabrics. It is also used to produce imitation leather products. Some prints are made of
PVC.
7.3.10.2. RESTRICTED PHTHALATES (AT10)
Description: Phthalates can penetrate in body when contacted with plastics through saliva or
perspiration. Even a small amount of phthalate on clothe can be detached from the product after
washing and thus make environment pollution. Phthalates are the substances that can give harm to
the hormonal systems of humans and animals who are suspected of being carcinogen.
NO

Name

Di-iso-nonylphtalate

Di-n-octylphthalate

3 Di(2-ethylhexyl)-phthalate

CAS-No.
28553-12-0 DINP
117-84-0

DNOP

117-81-7

DEHP

Diisodecylphthalate

Butylbenzylphthalate

26761-40-0 DIDP
85-68-7

BBP

Dibutuylphthalate

84-74-2

DBP

7.3.11. ORGANOTIN COMPOUNDS (TBT, DBT and MBT) (AT12)


Description: They might be irritating for skin. Also it is know that the affect human and
animal immunity system. They are poisonous for sea life.
Use: They are usually used for fixing plastics/rubber. Also used as anti-bacterial finishing
agent.
TBT, DBT and MBT are organotin compounds. These compounds are used as insecticide,
fungicide, antibacterial, wood preserving agent and plastic stabilizer. They have very high toxicity
for the organisms living in water. It is known that TBT (tributyltinchloride) compounds have a toxic
effect on nervous system and are absorbed by skin. These compounds are used in some textile
auxiliaries.
7.3.12. POLYCHLORINATED BIPHENYLES (PCBs), POLYCHLORINATED TRIPHENYLES (PCTs)
(AT11)
Description: PCB and PCTs are big molecules containing chlorine atoms. Chlorine atoms easily
penetrate to organisms and environment since they affect solubility of substances. Their effects on
hormonal system, liver, immunity system and nervous system were observed. When PCB and PCTs
are burned or heated, it is likely that with chlorine dibensophurance substances are released.
These released compounds are like dioxins in chemistry and are much more poisonous than PCB
itself.
Use: They are generally used as pesticides and sometimes as flame-retardant, softener and
carrier.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

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GROUP 1

PRODUCTS ARE CONTAINING


NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSE
FIBRES

GROUP 2

WOOL BLENDS ARE CONTAINING POLYESTER


FIBRES

GROUP 3

WOOL BLENDS ARE NOT CONTAINING


POLYESTER

GROUP 4

POLYESTER AND SYNTHETICS ARE


CONTAINING POLYESTER FIBRES

GROUP 5

SYNTHETICS ARE NOT CONTAINING


POLYESTER AND SYNTHETIC BLEND FIBRES

GROUP 6
GROUP 7

NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSE


FIBRES BLEND WITH POLYESTER FIBRES
NATURAL AND REGENERATED CELLULOSE
FIBRES BLEND WITH SYNTHETIC FIBRES
(EXCEPT POLYESTER)

GROUP 8

ARTIFICIAL LEATHER

GROUP 9

LEATHER

GROUP 10

PRINTS (NOT CONTAINING PLASTICS)

GROUP 11

PRINTS (CONTAINING PLASTICS)

Chromium VI
T18

Cadmium
T14

Phthalates
T10

PVC Determination
T15

Chlorine Benzene and Toluenes


T08

Allergic and Carcinogenic dyestuffs


T07

TBT, DBT MBT


T12

PCBs, PCTs
T11

Extractable heavy metals


A
T03

A
Chlorinated phenols (PCP, TeCP, OPP)
T05

Pesticides
T04

Formaldehyde
A
T01

A
T06

T02

TESTS

Azo Dyestuuffs (Mac Amines)

Ph Values

7.4. TABLE OF THE ECOLOGICAL TESTS ACCORDING TO MATERIAL COMPOSITION

Note 4
X

Note 4
Note 4

Note 4
Note 4

Note 4
Note 4
X

X
X

X
X

Note 4
X

Note 4

NOTE 1; Direct dyes have not to be used at any products.


NOTE 2; TBT, MBT, DBT tests have to be done for all coated products.
NOTE 3; PVC has not to be used at all prints and products.
NOTE 4; Chromium VI is performed when Total Chromium is more than 0,5 ppm.

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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7.5. CLASSIFICATION OF FIBRES


7.5.1. Natural and Regenerated Cellulose Fibres
Cotton
Flax
Hemp
Jute
Ramie
Modal
Lyocell
Viscose
Acetate
Bamboo
7.5.2. Animal Fibre
Wool
Angora
Cashmere
Silk
Mohair
Alpaca
7.5.3. Synthetics
Polyester
Nylon (Polyamide)
Acrylic
Tactel
Polyurethane
Polyacrylic
Polyvinyl alcohol
Polypropylene
PVC
Modacrylic
Polyvinyl acetate
Asbestos

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

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TEMA GROUP FABRIC QUALITY HANDBOOK REV 6.02

Material

Metal
Button, Pin,
Metal Snap,
Buckle i.e.

Plastic Label

Leather

Test sample definition

Metal trimmings

Plastic, Polyester,
Nylon, Solid
materials

7.6. TRIMMINGS: TABLE OF TESTS ACCORDING TO USED MATERIALS

Plastic
Button,
Stopper,
Vislon
Zipper, Nylon
Zip i.e.

pH Value

Formaldehyde

Heavy Metals (Cu)

Heavy Metals (Co)

Heavy Metals (Cr-total

Heavy Metals (Cr+6)

Heavy Metals (Ni)

Heavy Metals (Ni) Abraded


Heavy Metals (Hg)
Heavy Metals (As)
Ar Metal (Sb)

Heavy Metals (Cd)

Heavy Metals (Pb)

Phthalate

***

Azo Dyes (Mac Amines)

Allergenic Dyes

Saliva

**

**

PCP- TECP-OPP-NP

Toxicity

Nickel

* Chromium VI is performed when Total Chromium is more than 0,5 ppm.


** Only for baby products.
*** Only for artificial leather.
All tests of solid dyed and printed woven trimmings will be required referring the Table of
the Ecological tests according to material composition (See Table 7.3).

DATE PUBLISHED: 24/11/2006 (R6.02)

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED

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