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To ensure panelists remain calibrated after their initial training on the proper flavor
attributes of chocolate liquor, the group should be tested once every month using a blind
control and a failure flavor/ offnote sample. The type of sensory
panel for this testdescriptive or
differenceis up to the sensory
coordinator to choose, and should
be based upon the typical
objectives of their standard
testing.
The flavor attributes found in
chocolate liquor can be
categorized based on: drying and
storage, fermentation, degree of
roast, improper storage and
handling, and other miscellaneous
flavor notes. A chocolate liquor
flavor wheel (see Figure 1) has
been complied for use as a
reference for tasting and training
on chocolate liquor sensory
analysis.
FERMENTATION FLAVORS
Fermentation is a multi-stage
reaction process that utilizes
yeasts and bacteria to create key flavor precursors and color changes in cocoa beans
through fermenting and liquefying the sugars and mucilage surrounding the beans after pod
removal. The first stage of fermentation is an anaerobic reaction which takes place over 2436 hours; during this stage, sugars are turned into ethanol by the action of anaerobic yeasts
lowering the pH of the cocoa bean. The second and third phases of the fermentation
reaction occur between 48-96 hours in the presence of oxygen. The second phase happens
when lactic acid bacteria oxidize sugar and organic acids into lactic acid. Lastly, the third
phase occurs when an exothermic reaction takes place under heat (45-50C) using acetic
acid bacteria oxidizing ethanol to acetic acid. The amount of fermentation required for
optimal flavor precursor varies by bean type: Forasteros require 5-7 days; Criollos require
1-3 days; and Hybrids require approximately 3-5 days. Common fermentation practices on
farms are to ferment beans in either piles covered with banana leaves or stored in wooden
boxes.
Proper bean fermentation is evident by the lack of low fermentation flavors caused by
methyxanthines and polyphenols (which cause astringency and bitterness), and bean color
*Note that panelists can tend to confuse astringency and bitterness, so it is important to
remind them that astringency is a sensation and bitterness is a basic taste. When
panelists are initially trained they should go through a basic tastes screening process,
and if a panelist cannot taste bitter, they may have a genetic disposition as a bitter nontaster.
High Fermentation Flavor Attributes
Extended fermentation causes a sharp rise in the beans pH and the formation of ammonia,
causing what some consider unfavorable high fermentation flavor notes. The color of the
beans will also begin to darken beyond Brown; this drastic change in bean flavor and color
can symbolize the beginning of spoilage. When fermentation is too long, the following
flavors can result:
Musty The aromatic of items stored under highly humid conditions (damp
basements, molds). Moldy beans have been found to contain high levels of
carbonyls, resulting in this musty off-note. Musty flavors can be caused by mold
growth in beans because of high moisture within the bean or due to moist storage
conditions. A musty/moldy reference is the flavor of Brie cheese rind.
Meaty The aromatic reminiscent of cooked red meat, often thought to be a decay
note. A reference for meaty is the flavor of boiled beef.
Mechanical drying and storage conditions have the potential to add the following
flavors:
PROCESSING FLAVORS
Roasting is thought to be the first point in the manufacture of chocolate products in which
the manufacturer truly has control of manipulating the products flavor. Manufacturers are
able to change a products flavor based on the degree of roast they choose. Roasting is a
process that can take up to 1 hour per batch for nibs and 120 min for whole beans and,
based on preference and taste, can reach temperatures anywhere from 110-150C (varies
per degree of roast and per manufacturer). Roasting is important for microbiological
reduction and flavor development. Flavors develop by the Maillard reaction during roasting.
The Maillard reaction occurs between reducing sugars such as glucose and fructose in cocoa
beans and amino acids, and aids in the development of chemical compounds such as phenyl
acetaldehyde, isovaleraldehyde, isopentanal, and pyrazines in cocoa nibs, all which are
important for a good cacao impact. It is also known that the presence of certain amino acids
from fermentation helps cocoa flavor development; those amino acids are: leucine, alanine,
phenylalanine, and tyrosine.
The degree at which a manufacturer chooses to roast a product is their preference. Low
roast conditions are favored in Europe because of the acidic low bitter character of the
resulting chocolate. Low roasts are known to preserve the fruitiness of some bean varieties,
whereas, medium roasts (110-140C) are a favorite in the U.S. because cacao can be
optimized using these processing conditions. High roasts (>140C) are typically used for
blending due to their imbalances and high carbon burnt flavors. The flavor profiles per roast
are graphically represented in a spider chart in Figure 2.
Figure 2: Flavor Profile for Ivory Coast Beans Per Roast Condition
Cocoa
Astringent
Bitter
Low Roast
Earthy
Acid
Medium Roast
High Roast
Nutty
Burnt
Fruity
The method of roasting can change the flavors generated in cocoa beans.
Manufacturers can roast either the whole bean (continuous process) or solely the cocoa nib
(batch process). In industry today, one will usually see nibs roasted in order to achieve the
micro reduction and uniform heating that manufacturers desire, but this is all based on
manufacturers processes and preference. Whole bean roasting can be used to achieve
unique flavors, but contamination is a factor if proper micro reduction is not achieved due
to the bean not being properly sterilized. Whole bean roasting can lead to burnt flavors due
to the increased temperatures needed to accomplish the proper micro kill. Beans can also
be roasted by wet or dry roasting cycles, and wet roasting aids in volatilizing unwanted offflavors and killing microbiological risks.
Other than the non-enzymatic browning Maillard reaction that occurs during roasting,
confectioners can choose to manipulate the products color and flavor prior to roasting
using an alkalization (or dutching) process. Through the use of water, heat, and alkalizing
agents, the cocoa nibs natural acids and acetic and lactic acids from fermentation are
neutralized to pH of ~ 6.0, which changes the natural acidic and astringent taste of cocoa
products.
Low Roast Flavor Attributes
Fruity The aromatic reminiscent of fruit. A reference was provided earlier. A
reference is the flavor of Communion Wine in a 5% vinegar solution.
Floral The aromatic associated with a mixture of fresh cut flowers. A reference for
floral is the aroma of linalool, a terpene alcohol substance naturally found in flowers
and spices.
Sour The taste stimulated by acids. A reference was provided earlier. A reference
for sour is the flavor of 0.08% citric acid/water solution.
Green/Grassy The aromatic characteristic of freshly cut grass or the general
descriptor for green vegetation. A reference for a green vegetation flavor note is the
aroma of cis-3-hexenol.
High Roast Flavor Attributes
High roast flavors are present when beans or nibs are roasted to an extreme degree, and
may result in the following flavors:
Ash The aromatic associated with food items that have been burnt to the point
where all carbon has been removed and only white material remains. A reference
for ash is the aroma of ashes.
Carbon The aromatic associated with food items that have been blackened by heat
treatment (not roasted, toasted or ash). A reference for carbon is the flavor of
blackened pretzels.
Ash The aromatic associated with food items that have been burnt to the point
where all carbon has been removed and only white material remains. A reference
for ash is the aroma of ashes.
Nutty-general The aromatic associated with indistinguishable nuts, this flavor is
attributed to peanuts or peanut shells coming into contact with cocoa beans. A
reference for nutty-general is the flavor of mixed nuts.
Earthy The aromatic associated with topsoil, this flavor has been found to increase
in the last reaming beans in a silo due to the accumulation of dirt and debris. An
earthy off-flavor can be very unpleasant and should be rejected when present at
high levels. A reference for earthy is the flavor of a potato skin.
Woody The aromatic associated with the dried, dead, bark-removed wood that is
burned during processing. A reference for woody is the flavor of a toothpick.
Brown Fruit The aromatic associated with indistinguishable fruit flavor found in
sun-dried grapes and plums. A reference for brown fruit is the flavor of pureed
prunes or raisins.
Brown spice The aromatic associated with nondescript brown spices. A brown
spice flavor has been speculated to be caused by under-ripened beans that are high
in free fatty acids. References used for brown spice are the aroma of pumpkin pie
spice or toasted coconut.
Cacao The characteristic aromatic of roasted cocoa beans often described as
chocolate essence, this flavor is dependent upon the bean type and the optimal
length of fermentation for that bean. A reference for cacao is the chocolate impact of
chocolate bars containing high cacao content.
Cardboard The aromatic associated with wet cardboard, this flavor is a stale note
that can come through in liquor, and is related to age, packaging, or processing. A
reference for cardboard is the aftertaste of 10 x sugar.
Heated fat The aromatic associated with fat that has been heated. A reference for
heated fat is the flavor of potato chips cooked in cottonseed oil.
Hammy The aromatic of ham/meat notes, this attribute is believed to be due to the
disproportionate fermentation of beans. A hammy flavor is believed to be
impossible to remove, even by processing or blending. A reference for hammy is the
flavor of cooked ham.
Phenolic Characteristic aromatic of phenol which can be found in disinfectants,
Phenolic can be found in Malaysian beans and is thought to be caused by improper
fermentation methods used in Malaysia. A reference for phenolic is the aroma of a
band-aid.
Panelists are instructed to taste chocolate liquor and specifically observe the levels of four
key attributes: cacao, carbon, sour, and bitter. Panelists are also to ensure the liquor does
not contain any unwanted off-notes. Once acceptable levels for each flavor are determined
based on a control, a well-trained sensory panel can use their knowledge to test any
chocolate liquor. The level of cacao, carbon, sour, and bitter will vary based upon bean
origin, but flavor attributes that should cause any liquor to be rejected are: sulfury-rubber,
sulfury-skunky, earthy, meaty, hammy, musty, petroleum-like, smokey, and phenolic. The
presence of the aforementioned flavor attributes represents a defect in postharvest
practices, improper storage and handling, or unacceptable processing conditions.
HOW UNIQUE CAN CHOCOLATE FLAVOR BE AROUND THE WORLD?
The flavor of cocoa beans grown within 20 of latitude on either side of the equator can be
significantly different, thus expressing the flavor of its country of origin and the farming
practices inherent to that geographical area. The major causes of variation between and
within origins can be attributed to differences in bean varieties, country of origin, and postharvest methods. Even within the same country, different post-harvest treatments between
regions can result in completely different flavors. An example of similar geographical areas
where different fermentation post-harvest practices affect flavor are Hispaniola and
Sanchez: both countrys beans originate from the Dominican Republic, but unfermented
Sanchez beans are known for their little flavor and bitterness, whereas the well-fermented
and dried Hispaniola beans tend to be more flavorful with winey, earthy, and even tobacco
notes. Another good example of this is the different bean grades within Java. In Java you
will find Java A (Criollio/Forastero Hybrid) and Java B (Forastero) bean varieties, but only
Java A is what is generally thought of as Java, with beans that are light in color, acidic, and
sometimes have fruity or nutty notes. A summary table of different origins, their bean
variety, and the beans common flavor profiles can be found in Table 1; this table is not allinclusive of every bean variety that exists at every origin, but it is a good compilation. Also,
the flavor profiles listed are generalizations of flavor notes you should find from that origin,
but variations in profile from season to season and even lot to lot are always possible. The
spider chart in Figure 4 more clearly shows some of the extreme differences in flavors
between origins, such as the differences in the degree of cocoa flavor between Cte DIvoire
and the other origins represented. Also noteworthy is Malaysias degree of acidity when
compared to South American and African varieties: although the beans share the same
genetic lines, the different fermentation practices amongst their origins results in
completely different flavor profiles.
Figure 4: Flavor Profile Intensities Per Bean Origin
Cocoa
Astringent
Bitter
Cte D'Ivoire
Brazil
Ecuador
Malaysia
Earthy
Acid
Java
Venezuela
Sanchez
Nutty
Burnt
Fruity
CONCLUSION
When taking a step back and looking at the big picture, it is easy to see why sophisticated
sciences such as sensory and flavor chemistry are needed to understand more about the
flavor development and differences found in Theobroma cacao. One can also further
understand why the creation of confections is quite a craft in itself. Thus, the confectionery
industry must use sensory analysis on a daily basis to ensure the production of quality
products, especially knowing that variation in ingredients and processing can and will
occur. The commitment to customers is to make the best products possible, and, as
manufacturers, to stand for nothing less than superior quality.
Table 1
Origin
Cte d'Ivoire
So Tom & Principe
Ghana
Nigeria
Madagascar
Venezuela
Brazil
Colombia
Peru
Ecuador (home of Arriba)
Mexico (Tabasco)
Panama
Jamaica
Dominican Republic
(Sanchez)
Dominican Republic
(Hispaniola)
Flavor Profile
Good cocoa impact, low bitterness, low acid,
fruity, nutty
Good cocoa flavor, bitter, spicy, fruity, earthy
Strong chocolate flavor
Medium cacao, occasional off-notes
Winey, putrid, citrus
Mild chocolate, slightly bitter, distinct fruity
notes (plum and cherry)
Cocoa impact, bitter, acid, astringent
(sometimes rubber, hammy, smokey), some
fruitiness, no nutty notes (fermented in boxes
and artificial drying)
Fruity, bitter, cacao
Slightly bitter and fruity
Balanced profile, low chocolate, floral, fruity,
grass, earthy notes (partially fermented)
Low chocolate, strong acid, low fruitiness (can
be both fermented and unfermented)
Moderate chocolate, acidic, fruit and nut notes
(mechanically dried or sun dried, poor
fermentation)
Fruity
Costa Rica
Trinidad & Tobago
Grenada
Indonesia
Sulawesi
Java
Malaysian
Bean Type
Forastero
Forastero
Forastero hybrids
Forastero hybrids
Criollo
Criollo "Porcelana"
Forastero
Trinitario and Criollo
Forastero
Forastero (Nacional)
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Forastero
Forastero
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Forastero
Trinitario (birthplace)
Trinitario
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Criollo/Forastero
hybrids
Hybrids/pure Criollo
and Forastero
Forastero hybrids
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