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TABLE OF CONTENTS
Introduction
The purpose of this propagation workshop is to introduce you to some plants that are
not ordinarily found in gardens, but that can be very beautiful additions to home landscapes,
particularly waterwise home landscapes. It will also provide you with the opportunity to become
familiar with the process of development from seed to plant for plants that are adapted to
survival in the real world of Utahs semiarid climate and rocky, infertile soils. Native plants are
enjoyed by many people in the wild, yet they rarely think about how good these plants would
look in a landscape setting. You will have the opportunity to learn to grow some of these
plants from seed, and hopefully to enjoy the plants you have produced after transplanting them
into your own garden.
Growing Tips
While there are many similarities between growing native plants from seed and growing
more familiar garden plants such as vegetables and annual flowers, there are some important
differences.
The first thing you will notice about these growing containers is that, unlike flats used for
vegetables and cultivated flowers, these containers are much deeper than wide. This helps
the plants develop the long roots they will need to become established and drought-hardy as
quickly as possible. First developed for forest tree seedlings, these containers and others of
similar shape, such as Ray Leach containers have proven ideal for most Utah native plants.
Drought-hardy natives generally invest much more in root than plants that require a moist
growing environment. These containers give them room to do that. The book planters have
the added advantage that you can open them to examine the roots or to remove the seedlings
at out planting time. And the channeled sides of these root-trainer books direct the roots to
grow downward, not to spiral as they would in traditional shallow, smooth-sided containers.
Another thing that natives need even as small seedlings is STRONG LIGHT. In fact,
there are three things that native seedlings really need most: light, light, and LIGHT. Please
Dont think that a winter windowsill will be adequate. Fluorescent shop lights--the kind you can
get at K-Mart for ten dollars or so, will work great, and will also give you a good place to grow
vegetable transplants. We have chosen a small flat size so that you will be able to provide
good light. The light should be placed only an inch or two above soil level and raised as the
plants grow. If fluorescent tubes are more than a year old, they should be replaced with new
ones--you can use the old ones in an application where maximum intensity isnt so important.
Our soil mix is made up mostly of peat moss, vermiculite, sand, and calcined
montmorillonite clay (turface or kitty litter)--regular potting mix will have to be cut with coarse
materials like sand or turface, as many of these seedlings are susceptible to damping off if the
soil is too soggy. We have used a slow release fertilizer (Osmocote) in the mix, so you will not
have to worry about fertilizing during the three or four months the plants will live in these
containers. If you make your own mix, any fertilizer that works for vegetable seedlings will do
just as well.
The new seedlings must be kept moist but not soggy--overwatering is a serious risk.
Because of the container shape, the soil dries out slowly, especially when the plants are small
and not using much water themselves. It is OK to let the surface dry out for a day or so
between waterings. By the time the cotyledons (seed leaves) open, most of these plants will
already have roots that are an inch or more long. Most of these plants emerge in nature in the
cool temperatures of very early spring. If you keep the flat in a cool place (50-70F), the plants
will be happier, and drying out will be less of a problem. When you do water, it is best to water
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very thoroughly and deeply, until you can see water dripping out of the bottom of the books.
This ensures that the entire soil profile is wetted, not just the top layer.
Appropriate planting depth is determined by seed size--the bigger the seeds, the deeper
they should be planted. For fine seeds, less than an eight of an inch of soil, just barely to
cover, is sufficient. An old rule of thumb that also works well for natives is to plant the seeds at
a depth twice their maximum diameter. For long slender seeds like grass seeds, place the
seeds vertically in the soil nose-down, so that their tops are flush with the surface.
If you are planting germinated seeds, pick the seeds with the shortest radicles, as they
are the easiest to plant without damage. Make a hole first with the tip of a pencil, and lay the
seedling into the soil by placing the seed on the edge of the hole with the radicle hanging
down. Always pick the seedling up by the seed coat to avoid injuring the tender radicle. Once
the seedling is placed, press the soil gently around the radicle from the side.
If you have planted extra seeds in each cell to ensure the presence of a plant, it may be
necessary to thin, once the plants are big enough that their survival is likely. The best way to
thin in these small cells is by cutting the extra plants off at or just below ground level with a pair
of nail scissors. This prevents disturbance of the root system of the remaining plant, which
could weaken it and make it less likely to survive after transplanting.
If you are planting several different species in the same box, group them according to
their growth rates. Put the fast growing grasses and shrub at one end of the box, and slow
growing plants like succulents at the other. It is OK to clip the grasses if they get so tall that is
difficult to get the other plants in the box close to the lights.
Once the plants have grown for a few weeks and you think they might be outgrowing
their containers, check their roots by opening the books. If the plants are well-rooted and the
root ball holds together when lifted, it is OK to transplant, either to larger containers or to their
place in the garden. Native seedlings require hardening before planting out just as vegetable
seedlings do, though they are usually not as delicate. The plants may be held in the books for
several additional weeks after they are well-rooted, but the watering must be watched very
carefully, as larger plants in books tend to dry quickly.
Purdue University
Consumer Horticulture
Department of Horticulture and Landscape Architecture
HO-37
New Plants from Cuttings
Mary Welch-Keesey and B. Rosie Lerner*
Plants can be propagated, or multiplied, in several different ways. Most people are familiar with growing new plants from seeds, but
new plants can also be created by cutting off a portion of an established plant. This "cutting" is placed in an environment that encourages it to produce new roots and/or stems, thus forming a new, independent plant.
There are several advantages to propagating plants using cuttings:
1. The new plant will be identical to the parent plant. For example, if the parent plant has variegated (multi-colored) foliage, the new
plant grown from the cutting will have the same foliage. If the parent plant is female (as a holly or ginkgo might be), the new plant
will also be female. Propagating a plant by cuttings will allow you to keep the special characteristics of that plant. Plants grown from
seed will often be different from the parent plant and from each other.
2. Propagating a new plant via cuttings avoids the difficulties of propagating by seed. For example, by using cuttings you could
propagate a young tree that has not yet flowered (and thus has not yet produced seed), a male tree, or a sterile plant such as a navel
orange. Additionally, some seeds are difficult to germinate, taking two to three years for the seedling to appear.
3. A new plant grown from a cutting will frequently mature faster and flower sooner than a plant grown from a seed.
Types of Cuttings
Cuttings can be made from any part of the plant. Most frequently, however, either a stem or leaf is used. A stem cutting includes a
piece of stem plus any attached leaves or buds. Thus, the stem cutting only needs to form new roots to be a complete, independent
plant. A leaf cutting uses just the leaf, so both new roots and new stems must be formed to create a new plant.
Stem Cuttings
Stem cuttings can be taken from both herbaceous plants (e.g., garden flowers and houseplants) and woody trees and shrubs. Because
the new growth of trees and shrubs hardens as the summer progresses, cuttings taken at different times of the year vary in their ability to form roots. Softwood and herbaceous cuttings are the most likely to develop roots and become independent plants, hardwood
cuttings the least likely.
1. Herbaceous
Stem cuttings from herbaceous plants can be taken any time the plant is actively growing.
2. Softwood
Softwood cuttings are prepared from soft, succulent new growth of woody plants just as it begins to harden (typically May through
July). Shoots at the softwood stage will snap easily when bent. The youngest leaves have not yet reached their mature size.
3. Semi-hardwood
Semi-hardwood cuttings are taken from the current season's growth after the wood has matured. The wood is firm and all leaves are
full size. This occurs in mid-July to early fall for most plants. Many broadleaf evergreens (e.g., boxwood, holly, rhododendron) can
be propagated by semi-hardwood cuttings.
4. Hardwood
Hardwood cuttings are prepared from shoots that grew the previous summer. They are cut in winter or early spring while the plant is
still dormant. The wood is firm and does not bend easily. Some deciduous shrubs and needled evergreens will root from hardwood
cuttings.
Leaf Cuttings
Leaf cuttings are prepared by taking a single leaf from the plant. This leaf must generate not only new roots, but new shoots as well.
The leaf used for propagation usually does not become part of the new plant, but disintegrates after the new plant is formed. Only a
limited number of plants have the ability to produce new roots and shoots from just a leaf.
Root Cuttings
Cuttings taken from roots may also be used but only a few species can be propagated this way. Cuttings are taken when the plant is
dormant and the roots contain the most stored energy. Each root produces two to three new stems and each stem then produces its
own roots. The original root cutting disintegrates.
Propagation Basics
To successfully propagate plants from cuttings, a number of challenges must be overcome. Once a cutting is severed from the parent
plant, it can no longer take up water, and excessive water loss will result in death. The wound from the cut makes it susceptible to
diseases. New roots must be formed as rapidly as possible if the new plant is to survive.
Preventing Disease
Take cuttings only from healthy plants. To prevent the spread of disease, use clean tools and pots (clean with 10% bleach, rinse, and
let dry thoroughly). Use fresh soilless potting mix since garden soil can harbor plant diseases.
rather than form roots. A mixture of 50% vermiculite/50% perlite holds sufficient air and water to support good root growth, but any
well-drained soilless potting mix is acceptable. If your cuttings frequently rot before they root, you know the mix is staying too wet.
Add vermiculite or perlite to increase its air- holding capacity.
Cuttings use energy to form new roots. If the cutting has leaves, most of the energy comes from photosynthesis. Expose these cuttings to bright light, but not direct sunlight, during the rooting period. If you use hardwood cuttings that have no leaves, the energy
will come from reserves stored in the woody stem. For best results, select shoots that are robust for the species. Since you want all
the energy to go into the new roots, make sure you cut off any flowers or fruits that would compete for energy.
Auxin, a naturally occurring plant hormone, stimulates root formation. Several synthetic forms of auxin are sold as "rooting hormone." Though some plants will root readily without treatment, application of rooting hormone to the base of the cutting will often
improve your chance for success. Two synthetic auxins, IBA (indolebutyric acid) and NAA (naphthaleneacetic acid) are most frequently used. They are available in several concentrations and in both liquid and powder form. 1,000 ppm (0.1%) is used most often
for herbaceous and softwood cuttings; 3,000 ppm (0.3%) and 8,000 ppm (0.8%) are used for semi-hardwood and hardwood cuttings.
Liquid formulations can be used at low or high concentration for softwood or hardwood cuttings, respectively. To determine the appropriate concentration for your cutting, follow the instructions on the product label and the general guidelines just given, or consult
the references listed at the end of this publication.
To use rooting hormone, place the amount needed in a separate container. Any material that remains after treating the cuttings should
be discarded, not returned to the original container. These precautions will prevent contamination of the entire bottle of rooting hormone.
Cuttings will root more quickly and reliably in warm rooting mix. Keep your cuttings between 65F and 75F, avoiding excessive
heat. If your area is too cold, consider a heating mat or cable especially designed for this purpose.
Follow the same steps as described for herbaceous cuttings. Semi-hardwood cuttings may need a higher level of rooting hormone
and may take longer to form roots. Wounding the base of the cutting sometimes stimulates root initiation (see Step 5 in "How to
Make a Hardwood Cutting" below).
Working from the base of the stem, cut just below a node (Figure 4).
waterlogged.
9. Check for roots every two to three weeks.
10. Acclimate rooted cuttings to warmer, less humid conditions as described for softwood cuttings (Step #8).
Cane
Cane cuttings are used for Dieffenbachia, Dracaena (including corn plant), and other plants with thick stems. The stem, or cane, is
cut into segments and placed into rooting mix. New shoots emerge from the buds that are on the cane; roots grow from the portion of
the cane in the rooting mix (Figure 9). The initial absence of leaves reduces water loss.
Leaf-bud
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Leaf-bud cuttings use just a small portion of the stem (up to 1 1/2 inches) that contains a single bud and single leaf. The stem portion
produces roots, and a new shoot develops from the bud (Figure 11). Treat the stem with rooting hormone, then place in rooting mix
so that the bud is below the surface and the leaf is exposed to light. This method is used with grape ivy, geranium, philodendron,
English ivy, and the fleshy-leaved peperomias.
Leaf Petiole
African violets and bush-type peperomias are propagated from the whole leaf, that is, the blade (the flat part of the leaf) plus the petiole (the leaf stalk). Break off a robust leaf, trim the petiole so it is no more than an inch long, apply rooting hormone, and sink the
petiole into the rooting mix. The base of the leaf blade should just touch the mix (Figure 12). Place the pot in a plastic bag in a bright
spot. In a few weeks roots will form and new plantlets will develop from these roots. When they are large enough to handle, gently
divide them, making sure each plantlet has roots, and plant in individual containers. A single leaf will give rise to several small plantlets (Figure 13).
Figure 12: Leaf petiole: leaf blades stuck in Figure 13: Leaf petiole:
medium
rooted cutting with plantlets
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Leaf Blade
Some succulent plants (for example, jade plant and jelly bean plant) have leaves that lack petioles (Figure 14). These leaves can simply be broken off the stem, the broken end dipped in rooting hormone, and the leaf inserted about 1/3 of its length into rooting mix.
Since these plants are very sensitive to excess water, make sure the rooting mix stays damp but DO NOT enclose the pot in a plastic
bag. Roots and then new shoots will develop at the base of the leaf and can be separated into individual plantlets (Figure 15). If the
leaves rot instead of root, start over with fresh cuttings and media, add vermiculite or perlite to your rooting mix, and water only
when the upper 1/4 inch of mix has dried.
Figure 14: Leaf blade: succulent leaves with Figure 15: Leaf blade: succulent leaf with
no petioles
plantlets
Although not a succulent, Rex begonias can also be propagated from just the leaf blade. Two techniques can be used.
Method 1: With a knife cut the major veins on the underside of the leaf (Figure 16). Dust with rooting hormone. Place the leaf flat
onto a bed of rooting mix, underside down. Use small wire hairpins or bent paperclips to hold the leaf firmly against the rooting mix
(Figure 17).
Method 2: Roll up the leaf blade, dip the base in rooting hormone, and insert about 1/3 of the roll into the rooting mix. Place extra
mix into the center of the leaf roll to hold it in place (Figure 18). Rolling should break some of the veins, so cutting is not required.
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Figure 18: Leaf blade: Rex begonia leaf rolled and stuck in medium
For both methods, enclose the pot in a plastic bag as with softwood cuttings. Check the pot frequently to make sure the veins are in
contact with the rooting mix. If the leaf pulls away from the mix, no roots or plantlets will form. Each wound in a major vein will
give rise to roots and small plantlets (Figure 19). Transplant each plantlet into a separate pot when large enough to handle (Figure
20).
Leaf Section
Sansevieria, or mother-in-law's tongue, has long, sword-like leaves attached to a compressed stem. Cut off one of the leaves at its
base, then cut it into 2-4 inch segments. Dip the basal end (the end of the segment that was closest to the base of the plant) of each
segment in rooting hormone and then insert 1-2 inches into the rooting mix. If the segments are put into the mix upside down, no
roots will form. Put the pot in a plastic bag and place in a bright spot. After several weeks, first roots, then shoots, will develop at the
base of the cutting (Figure 21). Each new shoot with roots can become a separate plant.
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References:
General:
Hartman, H.T. et al (1997) Plant Propagation: Principles and Practices, Sixth Edition, Prentice Hall, New Jersey.
Toogood, Alan, (1999), American Horticulture Society Plant Propagation: The Fully Illustrated Plant-by-Plant Manual of Practical
Techniques, AHS.
Heuser, Charles W. (Editor), Richard Bird, Mike Honour, Clive Innes, Jim Arbury (Contributing Authors), (1997) The Complete
Book of Plant Propagation, Taunton Press.
Woody plants:
Dirr, M.A. and C.W. Heuser (1987) The Reference Manual of Woody Plant Propagation, Varsity Press, Inc. Athens GA.
Perennials:
Jim Nau, (1996), Ball Perennial Manual; Propagation and Production, Ball Publishing.
Houseplants:
Heuser, Charles W. (Editor), Richard Bird, Mike Honour, Clive Innes, Jim Arbury (Contributing Authors), (1997) The Complete
Book of Plant Propagation, Taunton Press.
Jantra, I. and Kruger, U. (1997), The Houseplant Encyclopedia, Firefly Books, Inc. Buffalo, New York.
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Native Bees
Utah is home to some 800 species of wild bee. (There are over 4000 named species worldwide.) They
are mostly solitary bees, do not produce honey, usually produce only one or two generations per
year, and generally go about their business with little interference with people. They are very important, though, in the pollination of many plants. They use pollen and nectar from plants to provide
food for the next generation of bees and by doing so, they pollinate plants.
We can help bees and other pollinators by increasing the diversity of plants in our yard, making sure
that there are plants blooming from early spring until fall to provide season long pollen and nectar,
leaving areas wild for ground nesting bees, cutting down on our use of broad spectrum pesticides
and even putting up nest boxes for bees that nest in holes in trees.
There are several websites to check out that have a great deal of good information on native bees.
The extension website has a fact sheet that lists nearly 200 species of flowering plant that grow well
in Utah and are good for bees. Go to extension.usu.edu, click the tab gardening, then Utah pests,
then fact sheets. Search native bees. The USDA Bee Lab in Logan also has a website
(ars.usda.gov) with many articles about growing plants for bees and the Xerces Society (xerces.org) is
an organization devoted to invertebrate conservation, including pollinators such as bees.
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Books:
How to grow the Wildflowers, E. Johnson and S. Millard
Native Plants for High Elevation Western Gardens, J. Busco and N. Morin
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Demonstration Gardens:
Jordan Valley Water Conservancy District
8215 South 1300 West
West Jordan, UT 84088
www.slowtheflow.org
Red Butte Garden & Arboretum
300 Wakara Way
Salt Lake City, UT 84108
http://www.redbuttegarden.org
Utah Botanical Center
725 South Sego Lily Drive
Kaysville, UT 84037
http://utahbotanicalcenter.org
Greenville Farm
1850 North 800 East
North Logan, UT
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Connectors:
12 Ts
4 Ls
4 hooks or screw eyes
OTHER MATERIALS:
2 each 4 ft long shop light fixtures
4 each shop light fluorescent bulbs (cool white,
warm, or full-spectrum
Surge-protector power strip OR
GFI-protected electrical outlet:
Outlet box
GFI-protected outlet
Outlet box cover, with gasket
2 each machine screws, 1 to 2 long
2 each, locking nuts to match screw diameter
3-prong extension cord
Heavy duty electrical timer (3-prong)
Fabricated sheet metal pan, or plywood pan with thick plastic liner.
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Other options:
-Use three shop light fixtures instead of two for more uniform light coverage.
-Make a wood tray to fit on the bottom of the Indoor Light Garden rather than a
fabricated metal tray. Use plywood with a fir strip or molding tacked on the outer
edge as a lip. Line the wood tray with plastic.
-Grow twice as many plants in a double-decker Indoor Light Garden! Use 1 diameter
PVC instead of for extra sturdiness.
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Step 1. Cut 2 pieces of PVC pipe six inches long and one (1) piece to two (2) feet long. Set these aside.
Step 2. Obtain the 6-foot long piece of PVC pipe. Cut 6 inches off either end of the pipe. Then cut the
remaining pipe into 5 pieces, 12 inches each.
Step 3. Reassemble and glue all the pieces from step 2 back together using the slip x threaded x slip
tees, making sure that the pieces cut to six inches are at either end. Be sure that the tees are glued so
that the risers will rise straight into the air when they are screwed in.
Step 4. Wrap Teflon tape around both threaded ends of each riser. Insert and
hand tighten the risers into the threaded part of the tees.
Step 5. Attach the mist nozzles to the other end of the tees.
Step 6. Glue the 2-foot section of pipe from step one (1), using a coupler, to the
end of the system where the electric valve will be eventually be attached. Keep
in mind that the valve placement should be customized to fit your situation. It
especially should be placed so that the electric wires are not
regularly exposed to water.
Step 7. Attach the slip x slip x slip tee to the other end of the line, gluing the two
six-inch pieces from step one into either side of the tee. Glue the two slip caps
onto the other ends of the six-inch pieces.
Step 8. When the valve is glued in, attach a hose end adapter to the PVC pipe to or plumb the system
into your pressurized irrigation.
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Step 2. Using both pieces cut to 7 feet 6 inches and both pieces cut to 3 feet 2 inches, form a rectangular
shape using four (4) elbows (See illustration 3).
Step 3. Once the pieces are connected, cut the 7 foot 6 inch pipes six inches from the edge on all four
corners. Where the pipes were cut, insert slip x slip x slip tees (see illustration 3).
Step 4. Insert the four (4) pipes cut to 2 feet in length into the four (4) slip tees (See illustration 4).
Illustration 4. Side view of bench cover with 2 ft pipes inserted into slip x slip x slip tees.
Step 5. Next find both pieces cut to three (3) feet in length. Measure 6 inches from each edge and cut
the pipe. You will make four cuts. Obtain the remaining four (4) slip x slip x slip tees and reassemble
the three (3) foot pipes (See illustration 5).
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Step 6. Place the remaining 4 elbows on each edge of the 3-foot pipes and connect these to the upright
2-foot pipes (See illustration 4).
Step 7. Insert the two (2) pipes cut to 6 feet 6 inches into the slip tees from step 5 (See illustration 4).
Step 8. Drape the plastic sheeting over the top of the plastic structure. It may be cut to fit but leave
enough plastic on the bottom edges so that it can be weighted down.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. WATER PLANT! Muddy soil to shallow (to 18 in) water. Does not
tolerate dry soil.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 4-6 weeks, keep soil wet (to saturated) once
growth states place pot in shallow water (just above soil surface but not submerging young plant).
Vegetative divisions and rhizomes.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Plants growing in very shallow water resemble the weedy plantain in lawns. Attractive bog
plant, but can become weedy.
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Cultural Requirements: Mostly to full sun. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy
clay soils lacking in organic material.
Propagation: Seeds sown immediately when green, or give long cold stratification, germination is slow and can take up to 18 months; plant seedling in permanent place after
they reach 20 cm in height; Vegetative suckers, division of suckers best done in late
winter, or layering in spring (up to 18 months for roots to form).
Uses and Notes of Interest: Fruit has been long harvested as food having a sweet nutty taste, and can be used as a
blueberry replacement in many recipes. The fruit has a similar antioxidant composition to blueberries. Good plant for
hummingbirds. Wood used to make handles.
Disease Issues: Susceptible to cedar-apple rust.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils.
Propagation: Seeds plant in fall or cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks, nick seed coat, or leach; Vegetative layering, root cuttings/ rhizomes possible.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Edible (entire plant). Ashes of leaves used as baking powder. Plants tend to be
male or female, but can change sex. Seeds used for flour. Pollen may cause hayfever.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. Prefers loamy or sandy, well-drained soils.
Propagation: Seeds cool stratify for 3-10 weeks (depending on species). Vegetative softwood cuttings,
layering.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Blooms on new growth. Leaves and herbaceous stems have a terpene aroma
(like Eucalyptus) when bruised. Caryopteris x clandonensis, has become more common in xeriscaping in
American Gardens since the 1960s. Several cultivars are now available. Attractive to bees, butterflies and
birds. Heavy clay soils can increase winter mortality.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
http://public.wsu.edu/~lohr/wcl/shrubs/caryclan/CaryopterisForm.jpg
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 2-12 weeks; Vegetative root sprouts. Slow to establish,
and slow growing initially.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Reflective nature of hairs on the seeds give the plant a frosted appearance in
heavy fruiting years. Wood used as tools and weapons, bark used to make a reddish-brown dye.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
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36
http://extension.usu.edu/files/
natrpubs/despub.pdf
37
Leaves:
Flower Color: White
Flower Form: Clusters of small flowers
Flowering Season: Mid spring to early summer
Cultural Requirements: Native to wet areas; however, once established is relatively drought tolerant. Very adaptable; tolerates
occasional heavy pruning.
Propagation: Because this is a succoring, riparian shrub, it is very easy to propagate. Place 6-12 long cuttings into wet potting soil
and water for 4-8 weeks or until rooted. Cuttings can be taken at various times of the year. If cuttings are taken during the growing
season, strip all but one or two leaves off the branch. Be careful not to tear bark. Have experienced upwards of 80% rooting success.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Renewal prune by removing to 1/3 of branches starting with the most mature annually. Do so because the bark on younger branches has more intense color. Branches are sometimes used to make ornamental wreaths. Commonly used as an informal screening hedge. Needs room to grow. Forms are available with either red or yellow stems, along with
variegated leaf varieties. S. alba is very closely related, and additionally commonly available at garden centers. Botanists have
much difficulty differentiating the two species. There are also several named cultivars that are usually more dwarf than cuttings
taken from wild plants.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade. Prefers loamy or sandy, well-drained soils. Not very drought
tolerant.
Propagation: Seeds pretreatment is generally not needed, germination can take up to 30 days; Vegetative
cuttings, divisions.
Uses and Notes of Interest: E. purpurea has been shown to have antidepressant properties in white rats
and is believed by many people to stimulate the immune system. Chemicals found in this plant can cause adverse reactions in people taking some heart medications. Cut flowers typically have a vase life of 5-7 days.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 21 days;
Vegetative cuttings, occasionally from root sprouts.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Stems are a diuretic. Seeds
are edible and sweet. Plants are either male or female.
http://web.gccaz.edu/glendalelibrary/images/Ephedra_nevadensis
-4.jpg
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils lacking in organic material.
Propagation: Seeds sow directly outdoors, or cold stratify; Vegetative hardwood cuttings, layering
Uses and Notes of Interest: Tolerates harsh winds. Interesting smooth white bark (blackish when young)
a good substitute for aspen. Male & female flowers found on different plants. Tolerant of pruning. Wood very
hard used as tools by Native Americans.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
http://www.delange.org/OliveNewMex/Dsc00152.jpg
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Uses and Notes of Interest: Good forage for animals and birds especially during winter. Mature seed heads
are wonderful in dried arrangements, but do not cut the plant back more than 50% when dormant. Prune in
early spring for bushier growth. Blackfoot Indians soaked the leaves in warm water for a hair wash.
http://seedsofsuccess.smugmug.com/
Bureau-of-Land-Management/BLMCA930A/15256925_2Ld2NR/58/148931
6971_rWGsc5V#!
i=1489316892&k=sJkkMRK
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun to part shade, somewhat shade intolerant. Well-drained or dry soils. Intolerant of heavy clay soils.
Propagation: Seeds plant in fall or cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks, nick seed coat for best germination
alternatively place in hot water for 5-10 seconds immediately transfer to cold water overnight prior to placing
into cold stratification; Vegetative root division may be possible. NOTE: inoculate with Rhizobium for best
results.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Nitrogen fixer. Highly toxic to sheep, causes birth defects in cattle.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
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http://www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/newmex/sanandres/
Photoshop_gallery/plants/images/Purple-penstemon.jpg
http://www.wildflower.org/image_archive/640x480/SS1/
SS1_IMG0138.JPG
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun, somewhat shade intolerant. Moist to dry, poor, well drained sandy or gravelly soils.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 4-6
weeks. Vegetative careful division of the crown may be
possible.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Flowers mostly lacking in
scent. Dieback after blooming common. Looks best when
massed.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent. Leaf spots and rusts.
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FACT SHEET:
Penstemon secundifloris
http://wildflowerswest.org/Images/Blue-Purple-Page-1/
penstemon_secundiflorus/sidebells_penstemon_1.jpg
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http://www.biosci.ohio-state.edu/~awolfe/pics/
Pspectabilis.jpg
http://calphotos.berkeley.edu/
imgs/512x768/6212_3041/0635/0094.jpeg
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http://www.illinoiswildflowers.info/prairie/plantx/
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun, shade intolerant. WATER PLANT. Muddy soil to shallow (to 18 in) water.
Tolerates moist soil, but not totally dry soil.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 4-6 weeks, keep soil wet (to saturated) once growth states
place pot in shallow water (just above soil surface but not submerging young plant). Vegetative divisions
and rhizomes.
Uses and Notes of Interest: Can become weedy, but if kept on drier side should behave. Good plant for soil
stabilization along waterways. Bamboo-like growth and look. Used for roof thatching in Europe. Makes good
nesting tubes for Mason bees. Young stems, seeds and rhizomes are edible.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun. Well drained soil. Tolerates heat and humidity, but does not like wet feet
during the winter, intolerant of wet, heavy clay soils at any time.
Propagation: Seeds (flowers in second year), division of clumps in spring when plants are young (not
woody).
Uses and Notes of Interest: A good addition to a butterfly garden. May have problems with downy or powdery mildew if watered by overhead sprinklers. Can naturalize under some conditions.
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Cultural Requirements: Full sun, somewhat shade intolerant. Moist to dry, well drained clay or gravelly soils.
Propagation: Seeds cold, moist stratification for 4 weeks. Vegetative careful division of the crown may be
possible
Uses and Notes of Interest: Strongly aromatic. Reported to be edible.
Disease Issues/Problems: Infrequent. Can be aggressive in
heavy clay soils.
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based on race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age (40 and older), disability, and veterans status. USUs policy also prohibits
discrimination on the basis of sexual orientation in employment and academic related practices and decisions.
Utah State University employees and students cannot, because of race, color, religion, sex, national origin, age, disability, or
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This publication is issued in furtherance of Cooperative Extension work, acts of May 8 and June 30, 1914, in cooperation with
the U.S. Department of Agriculture, Noelle E. Cockett, Vice President for Extension and Agriculture, Utah State University.
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