Natural Oils

Naturally from Cognis

Natural Oils
The demand for natural and
naturally derived ingredients
is higher than ever

ever
TM

August 2009

Natural Oils
Trade Name

INCI Name EU / non EU

CegesoftPS 6

Olus (EU); Vegetable Oil (non EU)

Eco status

Cegesoft HF 52 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

Cegesoft HF 62 Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Cegesoft FR 57 Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides
Olus (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and)
Cegesoft VP
Candellila Cera (EU)
Vegetable Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
(and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candellila) Wax (non
EU)
Butyrospermum Parkii (EU)
Cegesoft SB

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU)

Cegesoft SBE

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)

Cetiol SB 45
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (EU)
Cegesoft SH
Shorea Stenoptera Seed Butter (non EU)

Passiflora Incarnata (EU)

Cegesoft PFO
Passiflora Incarnata Seed Oil (non EU)
Cegesoft GPO Elaeis Guineensis Oil (EU)
Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (non EU)

not
applied

in
application

no

Cegesoft PFO, Cegesoft PS 6 and Cegesoft VP have as well the status as

Registered raw material BDIH Controlled Natural Cosmetic.

August 2009

Common Natural Oils

Cegesoft PS 6

Slow spreading emollient

With long lasting skin feel
Based on canola oil which
contains oleic (omega-9),
linoleic acid (omega-6) and tocopherol
Advantageous for sensitive skin
Similar spreading properties like paraffin
oil subliquidum

August 2009

Common Natural Oils

Cegesoft VP

Waxy emollient
Based on canola, palm, soy and
candellila
Basis for stick preparations
Consistency and melting behaviour
close to petrolatum

August 2009

Common Natural Waxes

Cegesoft FR 57
Cegesoft HF 52
Cegesoft HF 62

Waxes obtained by hydrogenation of vegetable oils

Consistency factors and basis for stick preparations
Different in origin, fatty acid composition and
melting behaviour for a variety of application
Delivered as pellets

INCI
Source

Cegesoft HF 52

Cegesoft HF 62

Hydrogenated
Vegetable Oil
Palm/Special Rape
Seed Oil

Hydrogenated
Vegetable Oil
Rape Seed Oil

Cegesoft FR 57
INCI
Source

Hydrogenated Vegetable
Glycerides
Soybean/Palm oil

Monoglyceride [%]

8 - 16

C-chain distribution Palmitic Acid [%]

38

Diglyceride [%]

40 - 56

Stearic Acid [%]

15

45

28 - 48

Oleic Acid [%]

32

Triglyceride [%]
Free Glycerol max. [%]
Slip Melting Point

52 - 60

Eicosic Acid [%]

Behenic Acid [%]

11

41

Others [%]

Slip Melting Point

50 57

60 - 63

August 2009

0.5

Exotic Oils

Golden Palm Oil

Cegesoft GPO

Shea Butters
Cetiol SB 45 & Cegesoft SBE

Passion Flower Oil

Cegesoft PFO

Shorea Butter
Cegesoft SH

August 2009

Shea Butters
Origin:
Origin Central/West Africa
Shea butter is a semi solid wax
obtained from the nuts of the fruits
of of the wild growing Karite tree
Butyrospermum Parkii

Shea butter is well known for

Soft and pleasant long term skin feel
Caring & moisturizing effect with a weak gloss
High content of triglycerides, rich in oleic and linoleic acids
Food grade quality
Good crystallization behaviour

August 2009

Cetiol SB 45 & Cegesoft SB and SBE

Cetiol SB 45, Cegesoft SB and Cegesoft SBE
additionally provide:
Excellent odor and color quality
Support of UV protection and
Soothing properties due to a high
Content of unsaponifiable matter
with active ingredient character
Improvement of hair gloss
Cetiol SB 45 Cegesoft SB
Cegesoft SBE
Melting point C:
42-46
min. 34
20-40
Unsaponifiables %:
9-13
min. 5
30-40
Add on property: supports consistency most natural grade concentrated active content

August 2009

Shorea Butter - Cegesoft SH

Origin : Borneo
The Illipe tree is a large tree
growing in tropical rainforest,
the butter is obtained from the fruit kernel.

Cegesoft SH
Leaves a silky, non-lubricating, velvet skin feeling
Melting point some degrees below body temperature 2535C
Moisturises
Improves wet & dry combability of hair from a shampoo
Improves hair gloss
High oxidative stability due to high content of saturated fatty
acids & low content of mono-unsaturated fatty acids
Good crystallisation behaviour

August 2009

10

Cegesoft SH vs. Cetiol SB 45

Sensory Assessment

August 2009

11

Cegesoft SH
Hair Performance Assessment
with a shampoo containing Cegesoft SH

Result:
Cegesoft SH improves wet & dry combability and hair gloss

August 2009

12

Passionflower Oil Cegesoft PFO

Origin:
Origin South America, Africa, Madagascar
The oil is produced from the seeds
which are sun dried prior to pressing

Cegesoft PFO
High content of linoleic fatty acid,
approx. 70 % omega-6, an essential fatty acid
known to reduce transepidermal water loss of the skin
Pleasant & silky skin feel comparable to evening primrose oil
Long term skin feel due to low spreading behaviour
Similar properties as Evening Primrose oil

August 2009

13

Golden Palm Oil Cegesoft GPO

Origin:
Origin Southeast Asia
Golden Palm oil is extracted from
the fruit flesh of the palm tree
Elaeis guineensis and not comparable
to palm kernel oil which is lauric oil.

Cegesoft GPO
Slow spreading emollient with long lasting skin feel
Can be used as natural colorant for yellow orange colors
Contains about 400 ppm carotenes
Contains about 1000 ppm tocopherols and tocotrienols
Resistant against autoxidation

August 2009

14

Cegesoft GPO
Natural coloration of cosmetic formulations,
e.g. oil

0%

0.1 %

1%

5%

August 2009

Pure Cegesoft GPO

15

Cegesoft Range
Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL) study

TEWL Difference (g/cm2h)

Differences= TEWL after application minus TEWL before application

-1
Cegesoft GPO
Cegesoft PFO
-2

Cegesoft SBE
Cegesoft SH
blank

-3

-4

60

90

120

Time after application (min)

Before application
of the pure oil
*This test has been performed on Asian skin

(n=5)
August 2009

16

TM

Formulations

August 2009

17

TM

Ingredients

Body Milk with Cegesoft HF 62 & VP

Eco Status

Weight %

INCI

(as is)

CETIOL CC

Dicaprylyl Carbonate

5.00

MYRITOLl 318

Caprylic/ Capric Triglyceride

5.00

Vegetal Oil Jojoba (Fytosan)

Jojoba Wax

5.00

CEGESOFT VP

Olus (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and)

Candelilla Cera

2.00

CEGESOFT HF 62

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

2.00

LANETTE O

Cetearyl Alcohol

1.00

EUMULGIN VL 75

Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2

Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin

3.50

Glycerin

Glycerin

3.00

Dissolvine GL 38 (Akzo)

Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate

0.05

Water, de-ionized

Aqua

66.65

Keltrol CGSFT (SPCI)

Xanthan Gum

0.80

Hamamelis HYHA12
(Fytosan)
Perfume Fleur damandier
(Expressions Parfumes)

Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate*

5.00

Geogard 221 (Lonza)

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol

0.20

pH-value

0.80
5.5 6.5

** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com)

Viscosity [mPas]: Brookfield

RVT,spindle 5, 10rpm

14,560

Formulation number: FR 00/661/213

* Only Ecocert has the ability to certify finished products according to Guidelines for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

August 2009

18

TM

Natural Soothing Care for Hair & Scalp

with Cetiol SB 45
Ingredients

Eco
Status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

DEHYQUART L80

Dicocylethyl Hydroxyethylmonium
Methosylfate (and)Propylene Glycol

2.00

CETIOL SB 45

Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU)

Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)

1.00

LAMESOFT TM Benz

Glycol Distearate (and) Coco-Glucoside (and)

Glyceryl Oleate (and) Glyceryl Stearate

5.00

COSMEDIA CTH (E)

Polyquarternium-37 (and) Propylene Glycol

Dicaprylate/Dicaprate (and)PPG-1 Trideceth-6

2.50

Aloe Extract
*(Burgundy Botanical Extracts Iberia S.A.)

Aloe Barbadensis (EU);

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (US)

0.30

Preservative
Perfume
Water, de-ionized

Parfume
Aqua

pH-value

89.2

3.67

Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 20C,

spindle 4,10 rpm

15,600

Formulation number: HB-ES/02/204/11B

August 2009

19

TM

Golden Body Butter with Cegesoft GPO & SH & Cetiol SB 45

Ingredients

Eco
Status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

EMULGADE PL 68/50
EUMULGIN SG
CUTINA PES
CUTINA GMS V

Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate
Pentaerythrityl Distearate
Glyceryl Stearate

6.00
0.50
4.00
2.00

CETIOL CC
CETIOL OE
CETIOL SB 45

Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Dicaprylyl Ether
Butyrospermum Parkii Butter (EU)
Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter (non EU)

3.00
2.00
3.00

CEGESOFT GPO

Elaeis Guineensis Oil (EU)

Elaeis Guineensis (Palm) Oil (non EU)
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (EU)
Shorea Stenoptera Butter (non EU)

1.00

Silocon Oil AK (Wacker)

Dimethicone

1.00

Cosmedia SP

Sodium Polyacrylate

1.50

Glycerin

Glycerin

5.00

Water

Aqua

67.00

CEGESOFT SH

Preservative

4.00

q.s.

Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C,

spindle TE 5rpm with Helipath

approx. 1,200,000

Formulation number: SC-US/162/634/132/5

August 2009

20

TM

Jojoba Oil Body Milk with CEGESOFT VP

Ingredients

Eco status

EUMULGIN VL 75
CEGESOFT HF 62
LANETTE 22
CETIOL CC
MYRITOL 318
CEGESOFT VP
Vegetal Oil Jojoba (Fytosan)**
Glycerine
Dissolvine GL 38 (Akzo)
Deionized Water
Keltrol CGSFT (SPCI)
Hamamelis Water (Fytosan)**
Perfume Th Vert (Expressions Parfumes)
Geogard 221 ( Lonza)
COVI-OX T 90 EU
LS Entielle Volupt

INCI Name

Lauryl Glucoside (and) Polyglyceryl-2

Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Behenyl Alcohol
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
(and) Candelilla Cera
Jojoba Oil**
Glycerin
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Aqua
Xanthan Gum
Hamamelis Virginiana Distillate**

3.50

Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol

Tocopherol
Brassica Campestris Oileifera Oil
(and) Schinus Terebinhifolius Seed Extract

pH-value

2.00
1.00
5.00
5.00
2.00
5.00
3.00
0.05
65.45
0.80
5.00
0.30
0.80
0.10
1.00

5.5 - 6.0

Viscosity (Brk RVT, RT, Spindle 5, Speed 10)

10,200 mPa.s
** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com)

Formulation number: FR00661.218

Only Ecocert has the ability to certify finished products according to the Guidelines for Natural and Organic Cosmetics

August 2009

21

TM

Moisturizing Shower & Bath Oil with Cegesoft PS 6

Ingredients

Eco
Status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

TEXAPON WW 100

MIPA-Laureth Sulfate (and) Laureth-4 (and)

Cocamide DEA

51.80

PLANTAPON LC7

Laureth-7 Citrate

5.00
0.80

NaOH 50%
CEGESOFT PS 6

Olus (EU); Vegetable Oil (non EU)

27.20

EUTANOL G

Octyldodecanol

5.00

CETIOL OE

Dicaprylyl Ether

9.00

Perfume

1.20

Preservative

q.s.

pH-value (10%)

5.80

Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C,

spindle 4,10 rpm

<100

Formulation number: HB-ES/05/501/01D

August 2009

22

TM

Naturecare Body Lotion with Cegesoft PS 6, GPO &

Cetiol SB 45

Ingredients

Eco
status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

EMULGADE PL 68/50

Cetearyl Glucose and Cetearyl Alcohol

3.0

EUMULGIN SG

Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate

0.5

CUTINA GMS-V

Glyceryl Stearate

3.0

CEGESOFT PS 6

Olus (EU), Vegetable Oil (non EU)

5.0

CEGESOFT GPO
CETIOL OE
CETIOL SB 45
MYRITOL 331
COVI-OX T90 EU
Keltrol T

Elaeis Guineensis Oil

Dicaprylyl Ether
Sheabutter
Cocoglycerides
Tocopherol
Xanthan Gum

0.5
5.0
1.0
4.0
1.0
0.25

Water demin.

Water

54.15

Glycerin

Glycerin

7.0

Lara Care 200

Galactoarabinan, Water

0.5

Ginseng Extract*

Panax Ginseng Root Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Silica

0.05

Grape Seed Extract

Vitis Vinifera Seed Extract (and) Silica (EU) Vitis Vinifera (Grape)
Seed Extract (and) Silica (Non EU)

0.05

*(Burgundy Botanical Extracts

Iberia S.A.)

Ethanol

15.0

pH-value (as is)

5.0

Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, 23 C, spindle 5; 10 rpm)

11,200 mPas

Formulation number: SC-DE/07/070/26

August 2009

23

TM

Multi-active Body Lotion with Cegesoft PFO

Ingredients

Eco
status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

EUMULGIN PRISMA

Disodium Cetearyl Sulfosuccnate

0.4

EUMULGIN VL 75

Lauryl Polyglucose (and) Polyglyceryl-2

Dipolyhydroxystearate (and) Glycerin

4.0

CUTINA HVG

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerides

2.0

CETIOL SN

Cetearyl Isononanoate

5.0

CETIOL SENSOFT
CEGESOFT PFO
DC 200 (Dow Corning)
COSMEDIA SP
Water, demin.
Glycerin (99.5 %)
Keltrol T

Propylheptyl Caprylate
Passiflora Incarnata Oil
Dimethicone
Sodium Polyacrylate
Aqua
Glycerin
Xanthan Gum

3.0
3.0
1.0
0.8
68.7
5.0
0.1

HYDRASENSYLTM LS 9800

Water (and) Glycerin (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Serenoa

Serrulata Extract (and) Adansonia Digitata Extract

3.0

BIOPHYTEXTM LS 9832

Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and)Panthenol (and) Escin (and)

Glycerin (and) Ruscus Aculeatus Extract (and) Ammonium
Glycyrrhizate (and) Centella Asiatica Extract (and) Hydrolyzed
Yeast Protein (and) Calendula Officinalis Extract

3.0

PILISOFTTM LS 9760

Aqua (and) Pentylene Glycol (and) Gymnema Sylvestre Leaf

Extract

1.0

Perfume

Parfum

q.s.

Preservative

q.s.

pH-value (as is)

5.8
8,000 mPas

Viscosity (Brookfield RVF, RT, spindle 5, 10 rpm)

Formulation number: SC-DE/08/171/8

August 2009

24

TM

Naturecare Face Cream with Cegesoft HF 52 & PS 6

Ingredients

Eco
status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

EMULGADE PL 68/50

Cetearyl Glucoside (and) Cetearyl Alcohol

5.00

LANETTE E

Sodium Ceterayl Sulfate

0.25

CUTINA HVG

Hydrogenated Vegetable Glycerate

2.00

CETIOL OE

Caprylyl Carprylate

5.00

CETIOL MM

Myristyl Myristate

3.00

CEGESOFT HF 52

Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil

2.00

CEGESOFT PS 6

Olus

5.00

MYRITOL 331

Cocoglycerides

3.00

LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN LS 9779

Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil

2.00

COVI-OX T 90 EU

Tocopherol

0.50

Ethanol

Ethanol

15.0

Glycerin

Glycerin

5.00

Water, denim.

Aqua

52.25

pH-value to be adjusted to

5.00

Viscosity [mPas]:
Brookfield RVT, 23C, spindle 5, 10rpm

200,000

Formulation number: SC-DE/08/131/18

August 2009

25

TM

Forever Trendy Grease Hair Care Balm

with Cegesoft SB & PS 6

Inhaltsstoffe
CEGESOFT VP
CETIOL CC
CEGESOFT SB
CEGESOFT PS 6
EUTANOL G
CEGESOFT HF 62
Vegetal Oil Jojoba HVJO12 (Fytosan)**
LIPOFRUCTYL ARGAN LS 9779**
COVIOX T90 EU

ko
Status

INCI
Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
(and) Candellila Cera
Dicaprylyl Carbonate
Butyrospermum Parkii
Olus Oil
Octyldodecanol
Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil
Jojoba Oil
Argania Spinosa Oil
Tocopherol

Viscosity ( Brk RVT, TE, Speed 4, 25C)

%
Gewicht

Funktion

14.50

Konsistenzgeber

5.00
15.00
27.00
20.00
8.00
5.00
5.00
0.50

lkomponente
lkomponente
lkomponente
lkomponente
Konsistenzgeber
lkomponente
Wirkstoff
Wirkstoff

250, 000 mPa.s

** Ingredients proceeding from Organic Farming (www.fytosan.com) and (www.laboratoires-serobiologiques.com)

Formulation number: FR00773.603

August 2009

26

Natural Oils and Waxes

for more natural solutions in .

August 2009

27

All products in the text marked with an are trademarks of the Cognis Group
The information on product specifications provided herein is only binding to the extent
confirmed by Cognis in a written Sales Agreement. COGNIS EXPRESSLY DISCLAIMS
ANY RESPONSIBILITY FOR THE SUITABILITY OF THE PRODUCTS FOR ANY
SPECIFIC OR PARTICULAR PURPOSES INTENDED BY THE USER. Suggestions for
the use and application of the products and guide formulations are given for information
purposes only and without commitment. Such suggestions do not release Cognis
customers from testing the products as to their suitability for the customers intended
processes and purposes. Cognis does not assume any liability or risk involved in the use
of its products as the conditions of use are beyond its control. The user of the products is
solely responsible for compliance with all laws and regulations applying to the use of the
products, including intellectual property rights of third parties.

August 2009

28

Back-up

August 2009

29

TM

Sun Care Cream with Cegesoft SBE

Ingredients

Eco
Status

INCI

Weight %
(as is)

Dehymuls PGPH
Lameform TGI

Polyglyceryl-2 Dipolyhydroxystearate
Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate

3.00
3.00

Bees Wax

Cera Alba

3.00

Zincum N 29

Zinc Stearate

1.00

Cetiol A
Cetiol SN
Cegesoft SBE

Hexyl Laurate
Cetearyl Isononanoate
Butyrospermum Parkii

8.00
6.00
3.00

Neo Heliopan E 1000

Isoamyl p-Methoxycinnamate

4.00

Neo Heliopan AV

Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate

4.00

Parsol 1789

Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane

1.80

Copherol F 1300 C

Tocopherol

1.00

Glycerin

Glycerin

5.00

Magnesium Sulfate
Water

Magnesium Sulfate
Aqua

1.00
56.20
q.s.

Preservative, Fragrance
Viscosity [mPas], Brookfield RVT 23C,
spindle TE, 4rpm with Helipath

187.500

Formulation number: DE 01/068/11

August 2009

30