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PRESENTS
BUILDING DRAGONS 1/35 SCALE
PORSCHE TURRET, KING TIGER TANK
BY
MIKE ASHEY
Dragon and DML kits are packed with extra goodies that really enhance the appearance of a
scale model. The magic tracks worked very well and I was able to achieve a good amount of
sag in the tracks around the drive sprockets. The kit has photoetch detail parts to replace the
plastic detail parts and the modeler gets to choose whether to use plastic or photoetch. The
kit also has a turned aluminum barrel, metal toe cable U clamps and three lengths of
stranded metal tow cables. All the extra details as well as impressive surface molding and fit
make this a great model and a joy to build.
I used Testors enamel and metalizer paints for the panzer and green colors and a silver
colored sharpie marker for the steel faces of the road wheels. For weathering I used Testors
silver for drybrushing the edges and protrusions, pencil pastel dust for subtle dirt, dust wear
and tear and exhaust staining and PollyScale rust for the tracks.
Finished photos of this model are posted on the military ground vehicles web page.
The tree stubs on the sides of the upper tank body are very
pronounced. Hold a number 11 blade flat against the surface
and carefully scrape layers of plastic. Sand the surface
smooth with sanding stick.
I taped the model together to check for voids. The fit was
very tight between the upper and lower hulls. I decided to
paint and assemble the lower hull, wheels, and tracks first
and then attach the painted upper hull.
This kit had a lot of small parts. I removed all the parts for
one sub-assembly, cleaned them up, and stored them in one
parts bin location to ensure that I did not mix up parts.
I taped the barrel together and then ran a bead of super glue
along the seam lines.
I lightly scraped the glue off the seam line prior to sanding
the surface.
I filled the seam line on the bottom of the turret with super
glue and then carefully scraped and sanded the
seams smooth.
The road wheels on the king tiger were steel. I paint the
surfaces with silver Sharpie pen. Each road wheel got
several coats. Each road wheel was then polished with 0000
steel wool to smooth out the color.
The road wheel and drive sprocket were attached and glued
into place. I left the idler wheel off as I wanted to use it to
help adjust the tension on the tracks.
The magic tracks fit together very well and although they did
not actually snap together the fit was very tight. I positioned
each link as I built up a length of track.
Next I used the flat cut off end of a wide sanding stick to
push the link down so that it would fit snugly in place.
Then I used the edge of the sanding stick to push the links
tightly together.
I attached the idler wheel and taped the third length. I had
to remove several links to get the correct length.
The idler wheel was attached but not glued. I positioned the
forward two track assemblies, glued them together and then
attached the third rear track assembly. I then adjusted the
position of the idler wheel and glued it.
There were tiny void lines on the front of the model along
the sides where the tow cable brackets touched the
upper hull.
There were also two voids where the rear hull panel touched
the rear tow cable brackets.
The edges of the turret edges and any protrusions got a subtle
coat of drybrushed silver. The barrels edges also got touches
of drybrushed silver.
The tank hull also got streaks of the same pastel colors. I
used a downward streaking motion with the brush and also
blew away any residue. The engine hatches and breather
vents also got heavier coats of black.
I cut out each decal and also removed all the clear carrier
film from each one to ensure that there would be
no silvering.
Attach one end of the tow ring and then weave the cable
though its clamps. This will allow the cable to untwist itself
and relax the metal strands of the cable. The other ring is
also attach to its location.
The loose end of the cable is cut to length and then inserted
into the tow ring and glued into place. The wood handles of
the hand tools were inked with a brown sharpie and then
given a coat of clear flat.
The last part I work on was the wood box that sits on the rear
panel of the hull. I painted it a wood color, masked it with
small squares of tape and then painted the metal frame the
proper color. The wood was drybrushed with brown.