GLAM

SOCIAL MEDIA

SINDHU NAIR
FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH

DEPUTY EDITORS EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI

SRINIVASAN V L

SENIOR CORRESPONDENTS ABIGAIL MATHIAS
AYSWARYA MURTHY
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT ALTAMIRANO

SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE

MANAGING EDITOR

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

DEPUTY ART DIRECTOR

ASSISTANT ART DIRECTOR

SENIOR GRAPHIC DESIGNER

VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SIAM
AYUSH INDRAJITH
MAHESHWAR REDDY B

FREDRICK ALPHONSO

MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS

ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB

MATHEWS CHERIAN

SONY VELLATT

NAMRATA KAPOOR

SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA

SENIOR MANAGER MARKETING

PRATAP CHANDRAN

SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA

DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA

BHIMAL RAI

BASANTHA P

SENIOR ACCOUNTANT

PUBLISHER AND EDITORINCHIEF

CHIEF EXECUTIVE

EXECUTIVE VICE PRESIDENT

VICE PRESIDENT

Disneys live-action feature, Cinderella,

brings the studios 1950 animated
masterpiece to life. The costumes and
accessories are key elements designed by
Sandy Powell. Salvatore Ferragamo also lent
a hand to design the shoes for Lady
Tremaine, played by Cate Blanchett. Sandy
and Ferragamos Massimiliano Giornetti
created pumps, lace-up shoes and boots.
View Sandys sketches and behind-the-scene
footage from the movie on our FB Page.

EVENTS OF THE MONTH

Qatar International Fashion Festival 2015
March 19th and 20th
Sheraton Doha Resort and Convention Hotel
The festival features a two-day exhibition and
a feature fashion show focused on South
Asian designers. Founded by Sana Salman,
the event will introduce fashion designers
and models from South Asia including Asim
Jofa, Adnan Pardesy, Goal, Hamna Amir,
Shazias Bridal Gallery, Umer Sayeed, Umsha
Couture and Waseem Noor, to the Qatar
market. QIFF is linked to our previous
exhibitions and events, which were held to
introduce the Pakistani products and
designers to the Qatar market, to attract the
locals and expats, Sana says.

COMING UP

YOUSUF JASSEM AL DARWISH

SANDEEP SEHGAL
ALPANA ROY
RAVI RAMAN

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What couture pieces will the stars be

wearing for the next big red carpet event?
We review the major Spring/Summer
2015 couture collections, including our
regions very own Rami Al Ali, who has
been steadily gaining traction at the
prestigious Haute Couture week.

G Talk
Every dress either appeals to or appalls different sets of eyes. Award season was in full-swing
over the last couple of weeks, culminating in the much-anticipated Oscars red carpet, and
while opinions differ on the sartorial choices of the celebrities, one common verdict prevails:
They were uninteresting. Harsh, perhaps, or just a playing it safe trend sweeping Hollywoods
best stylists? There certainly is no lack of gorgeous creations from the couture shows, but we
have yet to spy any on our favourite actresses.
On the contrary, the style quotient at fashion week front rows is higher than ever. It seems
thats where celebrities are more likely to take risks and experiment with seasonal trends.
Scarlett Johansson sparkled in an all-gold shimmering mini dress at Tom Ford, Khloe
Kardashian did a sheer barely-there outfit for Kanye Wests Adidas presentation, and Taylor
Swift went for a polished society look at Oscar de la Renta.
Could this be a sign of the fashion evolution that is shifting the focus to the street rather than
on the pedestal red carpet? After all, it is so much more aspirational for the masses to see a
fur bomber jacket worn by Rita Ora, than a multi-layer organza tulle gown worn to an award
show. This relevance is not lost in the Spring/Summer 2015 collections that debut this month.
Pared down silhouettes, plenty of separates and highly emphasised key pieces seem to be the
formula for most designers, making it easy for us to covet the IT items for the season.
We make the transition to the streets as well to explore the fascinating world of urbanwear
and its rise in the region. Fashions athleisure moment finds its roots in an urban movement
and Dubais players and movers tell us how the lifestyle is shaping their sartorial choices. In
anticipation of Art Dubai and Art for Tomorrow, fashion and art come together in a special
collaboration between Bil Arabi and Dohas own Desert Mannequin. The duo explores the
inner strength of women, an idea shared by filmmaker Alice Rohrwacher in her latest movie
for Miu Mius Womens Tales. We salute the strength in us all to always be ready for change, be
it in the wardrobe or in our daily lives.

EDITORS PICK
NYFWS STAR SHOW WAS
PROBABLY KANYE WESTS
COLLABORATION WITH
ADIDAS ORIGINALS YEEZY SEASON 1. WITH
A STAR-STUDDED FRONT
ROW WHICH INCLUDED
BEYONCE, RIHANNA AND
ANNA WINTOUR. THE
PIECES ARE DEFINED
AS SOLUTIONS-BASED
CLOTHING. I DONT
WANT THE CLOTHES TO
BE THE LIFE, KANYE SAYS.
I WANT THE CLOTHES
TO HELP THE LIFE.

26 \ TRENDS

Desigual Spring
Summer 2015

SAVE

VS

SPLURGE
5

SAVE
1 Fringed batwing top, QR124.
2 Cropped tank, QR62.

3 Lace embroidered top, QR74.

4 Floral boat-neck top, QR82.

5 Fringed maxi skirt, QR41.

6 Lace overlay bell bottoms, QR101.

All items available from H&M at Villaggio and Landmark Mall.

FREE
SPIRIT

There lives in all of us a little bit of the

bohemian chic spirit. The days that all
you want is to kick off your heels, let your
hair down and dance on a beach. Though
the trend has somewhat become a clich
and is often associated with a hippie
lifestyle of youth and abandon, the finer
sartorial elements have been making
a reappearance on the catwalk. Light
waves of fringes on hems, vibrant floral
prints, subtle tribal motifs and batwing
silhouettes make for a dreamy feminine
outlook. In welcoming the spring season,
dont forget the requisite flower crown
when you head out into the sun.
DEBRINA ALIYAH

SPLURGE
1 Baja printed silk-chiffon jumpsuit, QR772, Tory

2 Knitted batwing top, QR3660,

Burch, The Outnet.
3 Kaftan dress,
CH Carolina Herrera, Villaggio Mall.
4 Silk
QR2,944, Dima Ayad, www.dimaayad.com

panel top, QR1,442, Paule Ka, www.pauleka.com

5 Tropical silk pants, QR779, Weill, www.weill.com

6 Floral print top, QR1,009, Weill, www.weill.com

GLAM / ON OUR

RADAR

MARCH 2015

AN EDIT OF THINGS THAT ARE HOT NOW

JACQUES VERT X RACHEL TREVOR-MORGAN

Occasion wear brand Jacques Vert
debuts in the Middle East this season
with its Spring Summer 2015 collection.
Luxury lace tops, layered chiffon
dresses, high-waisted palazzo pants
and boleros form a chic edit ideal for
the modern womans social calendar,
a niche that is a signature of the
designer. Hand-painted florals, created
exclusively by Jacques Verts in-house
artist, bloom across shift dresses,
whilst Holly Golightly-inspired laser

cuts and monochrome scallop-edge

details add a touch of vintage chic.
Following two successful collaborations
with the label, Rachel Trevor-Morgan,
milliner to The Queen of England, has
designed an exclusive range of elegantly
structured headwear in ladylike tones of
champagne, shell pink, powder blue and
black, and are accented with beading,
feathers, flowers and delicate netting.
The collaboration arrives in stores just in
time for the racing season in the region.

29

CHANEL PREMIERE ROCK

Chanel brings a touch of rock n roll to its new
watch line, Premire Rock, which combines the
sophistication inherent to the house with a younger,
more modern and more rebellious side. The watches
in this new collection are based on Chanels classic
Premire model, but are updated with a number of
design details to create an edgier, more contemporary
rock n roll style. The collection consists of four
models: the Premire Rock Mtal with a double-wrap
steel chain bracelet and a black lacquered dial and the
Premire Rock Rose, Beige or Bleu with a triple-wrap
bracelet interlaced with dyed leather and a motherof-pearl dial. All models come with a high-precision
quartz movement and indicate hours and minutes.

ONE OF ONE CYBILL BAG

To celebrate Aigners 50th anniversary this year,
the house is releasing fifty limited edition Cybill
bags, which are all unique versions of the signature
tote. The special edition, One of One, encompasses
the clear and elegant stylistic elements of the
house. Each bag is handmade in Italy and has
its own unique look, and the lining of each bag
is scripted with a signature of its unique limited
edition number. The materials include snake, lizard
and crocodile leather, as well as ostrich, skate and
pony fur, while the colours range from earthy tones
such as cognac, beige and sand, right through to
bright tones of red, pink and sky blue. The interplay
of materials and colours result in variations of
camouflage, such as lion and houndstooth, that
give each bag its own identity. The Qatar edition,
Fairytale, is a medley of textures and blue shades.

30

MARIO UBOLDI JEWELLERY ART

Whether it is the Dot design inspired by the
British artist Damien Hirsts Spot Paintings, the
Mashrabiya designs inspired from the architecture
of the buildings in the Middle Eas,t or the Colour
Carvings inspired by the Cut-Outs of French
artist Henri Matisse, there is an art story behind
each piece of Mario Uboldi Jewellery Art. The
fine jewellery brand was founded by Dubaibased architect and artist Andr C. Meyerhans

as a tribute to his grandfather Mario Uboldi. The

Zurich-born architect, who designed Dubais
Garhoud Bridge, blurs the boundaries between
jewellery and art by blending the language of
contemporary art, design and architecture from
Middle Eastern culture and fuses it into various
forms of jewellery. Each piece is handcrafted in
solid precious metals and gem stones, and are
individually numbered and registered.

MIU MIU ASTRO RUNNING

Bejewelled and playfully cute in appearance, the
new Miu Miu Astro running shoe has us wanting
to hit the race track. Giving form and shine to
a classic shape, the design is a culmination of
the houses fine craftsmanship and sportiness.
Form and function come into play resulting in a
shoe that is light, soft and flexible to wear. The
articulated rubber sole, sourced in the Miu Miu
archive, has been reinvented with the addition
of little round nubs, inspired by a whimsical
combination of part baby hedgehog and part sea
creature in appearance. The upper is crafted in a
technical satin that is entirely hand-embroidered
with constellations of sequins and crystal. The
neck of the shoe is cut in sock-like neoprene to
ensure a close fit. The shoe is available exclusively
in the region, only at Miu Miu Villaggio Mall and
Level Shoe District Dubai Mall.

32

Model (left) wears Piou-Piou Clip and Fort merveilleuse clip

while model (right) wears the Miroir enchant necklace and
detachable clip. All jewellery from Van Cleef & Arpels.

INFINITY

GEMS
THE BRIGHTEST STONES, THE DEEPEST COLOURS AND FINEST
TECHNIQUES REAFFIRMED OUR LOVE FOR ALL THINGS SHINY
AT THE 2015 DOHA JEWELLERY AND WATCHES EXHIBITION.

FASHION / 33

Gold and diamond Kate

bangles, Messika Joaillerie.

Geo Graham London

pocket watch, Graham.

Tourbillon Fleur Magnolia

watch, Richard Mille.

Fish pendants in
pink and yellow gold
with enamel and
diamonds, Leo Pizzo.

Rubellite and diamond

necklace from the Red
Carpet collection as worn
by Rihanna, Chopard.

Knuckle ring from the White

Noise collection, Repossi.

34

Pearl necklace from

the Tresors collection,
Robert Wan.

Promise ring from the

Promise collection,
Stefan Hafner.

The 4-shaped necklace

from the Silhouette
collection, Mouawad.

Blue and yellow

sapphires and
yellow diamond
earrings,
Chaumet.

Reine Makeda earrings

with Mozambique
rubies, Cartier.

Bar En Corolle emerald bracelet, Dior.

St-Tropez Diamonds
Rose Gold watch, Charriol.

Rewaya ring in ruby

pearls, QELA.

FASHION / 35
Floral motif
diamond neck piece,
Jaipur Gems.

Stackable and interchangeable pendants from

the Totem Pendant Collection, David Webb.
Champagne diamonds
smartphone from the
Jardin Secret
Collection, Savelli.

The Lion ring from the

Les Intemporels collection,
CHANEL Haute Jewellery.

18 karat pink salmon topaz

bangle, Suzanne Kalan.

Bora Aksu SS15

TRENDS / 41

SPRING
SUMMER
2015
FREEDOM IN
MOVEMENT, ART
CROSSOVERS
AND THE INTERPRETATION
OF PERCEPTIONS GIVE
DIRECTION TO THE
BLOSSOMING
NEW SEASON.

42

Louis Vuitton
Two things made impactful first
impressions: the eel leather high
boots and the updated cushiony
Petite Malle. The Petite Malle, of
course, is the new emblematic trunkshaped clutch introduced by Nicolas
Ghesquire when he took over the
creative reins at Louis Vuitton, and
this season, it comes in an adorable
soft-to-touch texture. The clothing
is a signature-shaping progression at
play for Ghesquire. Though diverse,
with influences of British school
grounds, touches of bohemian

romantic, psychedelic references

of the 70s and prints of pop-art;
the narrow silhouettes and woven
embroideries are familiar grounds
from last season. Leather innovation
is at the forefront as a constant nod
to the houses heritage, appearing as
detailing and finishing, perforated
motifs and paired with unexpected
materials like scuba. The LV woman
heralds only boots this spring, either
ankle or high versions with heels
that are sculptured with monogram
flowers and star shapes.

Twist
Malletage

Denim
patchwork
boots

TRENDS / 43

Hand Jewel

The new
soft-to-touch
version of
Petite Malle

Pop Chips
Earrings in White

44

Salvatore
Ferragamo

Paying homage to Italian Murano

glass craftsmanship, Massimiliano
Giornetti brings the vivid colour and
graphic formation from the technique
into this collection. Playing with
textures - handled, cut, frayed, and
melted the focus is on the work
of hand and the unique touch that
comes with each individual piece.
The silhouette is almost bare skin,
skimming close to the body with
invisible waistlines. For a touch of
subtle sexiness, halter necks reveal the

shoulders and voluminous trousers

give just a peek at calves. Pouch coats
and short capes are fastened at the
waist with reptile-leather belts that
are crafted from structural woven
fabrics reminiscent of Salvatores
original use of materials. Accessories
feature actual Murano glass with
bracelets, chains and clutches handblown by craftsmen. The iconic
rainbow wedge from the houses
archive makes a black appearance
as a sandal in the collection.

TRENDS / 45

Donna
Karan

Scribbles, strokes and splashes form

the main print narrative for the
collection, sometimes bordering on
graffiti-like chaotic colours. Donna
Karan brings influences from around
the world - India, Bali, and Haiti to
meet in the heart of New York, which
she calls her palette and her fuel. A
culture that empowers creativity, she
says. The prints come to life through
an urban chic vibe - pieces sculpted
in paper cotton, stretch canvas and
organza, and rings of casual silhouettes

like rolled-sleeved shirts and boat-neck

t-shirts. Get crafty as tops are meant to
be folded, tucked, and twisted, while
bottoms are adorned with the ever so
trendy flounce. Theres a handwoven
tweed jacket that resembles Indian
handicraft work, while tiny bra tops
are paired with voluminous skirts. In
accessories, wedges are sexily sculpted,
totes are unique one-off handpainted
pieces and there are some crazy hats
designed by Stephen Jones that would
definitely make Pharrell happy.

46

Lanvin

The Lanvin woman in Spring is serene,

regal and unpretentious. Someone
who values her freedom and comfort
in an Urban Eden, as the collection
is named. This sense of freedom
comes from the fluid movements that
transpire from the cuts and draping of
the pieces. A gown is worn naturally as
a t-shirt, crumpled woven linen suits
are paired with supple trench coats and
silk satin dresses are terracotta-washed
for a sense of nonchalance. Shades

of grey, khaki, ecru and nude form

the main palette while little details
of nets, slits, eyelets and jewelled
straps complete the pieces, which are
strikingly simple, yet classy. The sense
of ease also comes from experience, as
designer Alber Elbaz had iconic names
like Kirsten Owen, Amber Valletta
and Violetta Sanchez take the runway,
proving the importance of the woman
who wears the dress and not the dress
that wears the woman.

TRENDS / 47

Loewe

A torn suede dress, Oro, opens the runway

show, presenting the houses signature
hue in a new way that encapsulates a
nascent woman. The dress symbolises
something deeper, a coming together of
the past, present and future of the house,
which is currently experiencing a new
dawn with J.W. Anderson. Lightness is
a key theme in the collection, with the
house exploring ways in which leather
becomes fluid in appearance, with a sense
of airiness. Silhouettes are defined by

ease and softness, punctuated with sharp,

unexpected elements like the placement
of a knot, the way a classic scarf print
from the archive is transposed onto
latex, or the calculated asymmetry of a
skirt. The introduction of a new bag was
expected and so in comes Puzzle, a new
cubic bag which can be worn in at least
five ways. The deconstructed signature
element of the house comes into play to
present this new iconic bag that seems to
mould into different fits.

48

Marc
Jacobs

I quite like the idea of how things are

perceived. How people look at things
and peoples interpretation of them, in
and out of context, says Marc Jacobs.
The perception for this collection is
relooking at a familiar military palette,
which the designer has taken out of
context and put into high fashion shapes
with couture techniques.
Using a neutral-based colour palette
seen in classic army and surplus
clothing, key pieces include wool

gabardine dresses, long silk shirt

dresses featuring front patch pockets
and epaulettes, wool mlange suiting in
military green and blue and large patch
pocket mini-skirts with army shirting
featuring guipure embroidery. Resin
cabochons highlighted the hems and
necklines of jackets and cotton twill
pleated dresses. The flat slide sandals
that accompanied most of the looks were
a contrasting element, in colours ranging
from ivory to gold, with paved buckles.

TRENDS / 49

Nina Ricci

Images of war-torn Paris led me to

think about how Parisians had to be
resourceful with their wardrobe and
customise and rethink their clothes,
says artistic director Peter Copping.
He brings the idea of make do and
mend to this collection, referencing
the post-war period in 1946 when
Madame Ricci and her son Robert
created scale models of couture
dresses to promote French fashion.
The spirit of DIY couture is further

enhanced by taking inspiration from

Louise Bourgeois textile works from
the same period. Using menswear
pieces, Peter reworks the silhouette
to be long and lean with military
references. While day dresses are
easy and fluid, evening pieces
feature interwoven laces, laser-cut
flowers and jet beading. The house
collaborated with jewellery designer
Sonia Boyajian by featuring archive
pieces alongside the collection.

50

Victoria
Beckham

Following the opening of the first Victoria

Beckham store in London late last year,
the designer has definitely nailed down
the essence of her label a modern sense
of purpose and precision in dressing
women. As much as it is in developing a
fashion business, it is also a reflection of
the designers own journey in finding the
perfect balance of injecting her signature
with new techniques and silhouettes. It
has pushed me to focus on the DNA of the
brand. Informed by these new shapes was

the idea of creating an eclectic uniform in

a wearable wardrobe that embodies the
evolution of the collection, she explains.
Soft flouncy raincoats and ribbed-knit
dresses and skirts are accentuated with
patch pockets and leather waist belts.
Victoria also introduces her own shoe
line this season. Creating all elements of
the collection under one roof enabled me
to complete and strengthen the silhouette
and this has been key in the design
journey for me.

TRENDS / 51

Cline

Spontaneity and letting go marks

a departure from the usually
directional visions of Phoebe Philo
in her creations. I wanted a feeling
of things which could be given,
borrowed, touches of things you
might have collected, she comments
on the collection, which reflects a
more open approach to how women
dress. Fabrics are varied with versatile
silhouettes that are anchored by
monochrome black and white shades,

and highlighted by strong floral

prints. Fluidity is the key for separate
pieces: wide flare leg trousers, t-shirtshaped dresses, and tunics worn over
pants and skirts. The continuity of
previous narratives, however, is still
present in sharp details like contrast
stitching and arm belts. And who
would consider Cline, without
the statement coats and knitwear;
staunchly represented by a gorgeous
hand knitted macram dress.

52

Dsquared2

Mediums of art find a fit in this

collection, with coats, pants and
skirts that have sculpture-like forms
and prints inspired by iconic art styles
of colour-blocking and Aztec graphic
patterns. Dean and Dan also turn
up the volume on shapes, form and
proportion in billowing floor-length
skirts, voluminous sweartshirts and
oversized boyfriends jeans. Pleated
ruffles take centrestage in giving new
form to long skirts and short tunics

that blossom with multiple layers of

intricately pleated fabric in vibrant
hues of ochre, teal and red.
The dramatic pieces are then
casually paired with sporty t-shirts
or polo shorts. There were a few
looks with bright sparks of feathers
including a fully-feathered tote bag.
A long raffia silk coat with gigantic
circle prints is one of our favourites,
and so is the latticed leatherwork
thigh-high boots.

TRENDS / 53

Dior

An extension from last seasons couture,

Raf Simons continues to explore the
relationship of past and future in this
collection, by blurring the lines between
the traditions of haute couture and
ready-to-wear. By beginning with
the ingredients and the form language
of couture, I went further by making
ready-to-wear feel more dynamic and
real. I wanted it to be made available
to a wider audience, he explains. 18th
century court coats merge with street

aesthetics of skaters shorts and godet

dresses, Edwardian longline coats are
reinterpreted in washed silk satins and
thick calf leather, and traditional silk
jacquards appear side-by-side with
modern micro jacquards in a digital
grid. The challenge was to bring the
attitude of contemporary reality to
something historical, and bringing
easiness to something that could be
perceived as theatrical. It is the attitude
that matters, Raf says.

PLEATS

Everybody seemed to be
at it, from Massimo Nicosia
at Pringle of Scotland who
opened his show with a sporty
pleated skirt, to Christopher
Kane who worked pleats
paired with rope motifs across
his collection. At Thomas Tait,
who was showing his first
collection since his LVMH
prize win, pleats jutted out at
asymmetric angles from
models hips and were also
draped across the torso on
the diagonal.

Christopher Kane

KEY
TRENDS

Mulberry

FLORAL REMIX

At Issa, there were black and white abstract

daisies, while at Mulberry there was an
ultramodern twist on honeycomb patterns
and classic floral. All those flowers got a
geometric, early 20th century rendering at the
hands of Peter Pilotto, while House of Holland
had a retro 60s and 70s flower-power vibe.

SHEER

Both Mary Katrantzou and

Erdem used sheer silk as a
foundation for layers of
further embellishment;
florals, feathers and trellis
motifs for Moralioglu at
Erdem and ancient fish and
lizards for Katrantzou. Tom
Ford went for a sexy, direct
approach, sending out models
in full sheer tops with built-in
sequin nipple covers. Antonio
Berardi shone with a dgrad
tuxedo jacket which started
transparent at the shoulders
but was inky black and opaque
at the waist. Even Armani did
diaphanous, both below and
above the waist, although his
take on the bra-free trend was
predictably at the discreet
rather than full-frontal end of
the scale.

Antonio Berardi

Tom Ford

Giorgio Armani

TRENDS / 55
Moschino
Etro

Max Mara

Anna Sui

FLARES AND FRINGES

Etro turned on the tassle factor with a series of bead-heavy outfits

that channeled Pocahontas. Anna Sui, Tory Burch and Jeremy Scott
all looked to the 60s and 70s for different interpretations. Scott went
maximalist with his use of slogans and vibrant prints, riffing on a
cartoonish version of California hippie culture. Suis look at the
psychedelic rock gods of that era was more refined and dreamy. Tory
Burch went retro with a mix of her usual preppy pep, and a folky
twist on the last century through the lens of artist Franoise Gilot.

BARBIE DOLL RETRO

Moschinos overt working of the Barbie doll look

was retro in more ways than one, while the likes
of DSquared2 and Max Mara explored the not
that pretty but smart side of 70s sex appeal:
the latter taking direct inspiration from Anjelica
Houstons unconventional beauty.
Elizabeth & James

Phillip Lim
Rag and Bone

TRELLIS PRINT

From last season, the trellis

pattern reappeared on the
runway this spring as a bolder
update. At 3.1 Phillip Lim, the
designer took his cue from
the quilting on mattresses,
working the trellis check
throughout his collection.
Elizabeth & James also
employed the effect in the
brands city-meets-surf
pieces, most notably on their
stunning semi-sheer shirts.
Meanwhile at Proenza
Schouler, Jack McCollough
and Lazaro Hernandez opened
with a thick trellis reworking
of the classic plaid shirt and
then used the pattern in
perforated leather pieces.

URBAN
MINIMALISM

Sporty, pared-back take on

urban clothing remains
dominant. Rag & Bone were
key proponents, sending
out slick and minimalist
versions of summer coats,
trenches and utility jackets.
Victoria Beckham worked a
similar vibe, but broke up
her clothes clean lines
with some brighter prints
and colour. Tim Coppens
was among the designers
including Hood By Air who
added a punkier element,
and worked with New York
Citys street wear heritage.

EXCEPTION
IN THE ORDINARY
MIU MIUS SPRING SUMMER 2015 COLLECTION COMES TO LIFE.

FASHION / 57

sing dresses as the protagonist, Italian filmmaker

Alice Rohrwacher tells her story of what defines
femininity in the short movie De Djess that is
produced as part of Miu Mius Womens Tales.
Eccentric and mostly interpretative, the dresses
from Miu Mius Spring Summer 2015 collection
take on personalities of their own in a narrative that is set
against a quaint village hotel run by nuns.
The movie starts with the dresses washed ashore like
survivors from a shipwreck and, after being rescued by the
nuns, they find a new life as celebrities in the hotel. De Djess is

reminiscent of Alices award-winning work The Wonders, which

explores Italys evaporating peasant culture. I want in my films
to pose questions, Rohrwacher admits, not to offer answers.
De Djess is full of questions and adds another tender tonality
to the Miu Miu Womens Tales series: a mirrored world where
objects choose owners instead of the other way around. I felt it
was right to give the lead role to a dress, and put myself inside,
the director explains. The movie premiered in New York during
this seasons fashion week, and acclaimed photographer,
Brigitte Lacombe, takes us behind-the-scenes in the making of
the movie. Watch the full movie on www.miumiu.com

58

Urban
Hood By Air
Spring Summer 2015

FOCUS / 59

Escapes
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

Urbanwear,
encapsulating
an expression of
self through style,
explores collections
that are alternative
and unpredictable.

60

Rad Hourani

Rad Hourani

THE BIG WIGS

THE CARTEL
This concept space is truly the heart
of the avant-garde and alternative
fashion movement in the region.
Dubbed as a gallery of wearable art,
The cARTel speaks to the fashion savvy,
confident audience who determine
their own distinctive personal style
without blind commitments to labels.
The stores buying aesthetic is driven
towards progressive design elements,
experimental cuts and unconventional
silhouettes. Theres close to zero

chance of someone in the Middle East

wearing the same outfit as yours from
The cARTel, says one of the founders,
Peter Richweisz. While names like Iris
Van Herpen, Hussein Chalayan, Gareth
Pugh and Rad Hourani form the anchor,
the store is also a platform for emerging
designers to set foot in the Middle East.
We treat fashion as an artistic expression
and some of the creations should be
considered as wearable art, so pretty
much all of our labels fall under the avant-

Rad Hourani

Solid Gray

garde category. Besides the usual routes,

we visit cities slightly off the beaten path
to find new talent, he explains. The
multicultural attribute of the region has
allowed for the store to create a niche
palette of collections, which brings a
wider choice of fashion to customerswho
are becoming more diverse in tastes.
Avant-garde fashion appeals across
age and demographics. Its all down to
personal confidence and taste, he says.
The cARTel is located in Al Quoz, Dubai.

FOCUS / 61

THE LUXURY ARCADE

Lina Mustafas urban aesthetics translates
into the uber-cool The Luxury Arcade,
the first concept store to open its doors
in Abu Dhabi. Crossing into the world
of menswear a long time stronghold
for the urban lifestyle Lina brings a
fresh mix and match perspective with a
feminine touch. I tend to wear a lot of
mens clothing and am more of a sneakers
and sweatpants kind of girl, so its very

Wanda Nylon, 3,250AED

much in my comfort zone, she explains.

The philosophy of combining urbanwear
with luxury pieces comes through in her
buying for the store; fresh labels including
Stripes, Nerdy Fresh, Filling Pieces and
Daily Paper make their debut appearance
in the region, while established names
like Prabal Gurung and Marios Schwab
fill the top shelves. I love seeing how the
scene here has evolved and how people

Marios Schwab,
7,090AED

are taking on different trends. Urban

wear is generally comfortable and easy
to wear so the trend is definitely picking
up, she says. The distinctive emerging
urban voice from regional designers hs not
been missed, The Luxury Arcade is keen
to support names including Amongst Few,
House of Nomad and LAfshar. The Luxury
Arcade is located at The World Trade
Centre Mall, Abu Dhabi.

Jonathan Simkhai, 4,450AED

Wanday Nylon, 1,720AED

THE PLAYERS

AMONGST FEW
There is so much swag and perspective
into the lifestyle presentation of this
label that it truly embodies the spirit of
urbanwear with a strong origin in Dubai.
The essence of street culture derives
strongly from its locale, and in a twoand-a-half minute video feature, the
debut collection of Amongst Few plays
out against the rugged landscape of
the Emirates, complete with some dirt
biking action. Founded by Flo Moser and
Mike Taylor who both come from the
music industry, the label was an organic
progression, as we have always been

surrounded by fashion, music and art,

Mike says. The emphasis here is to keep
core features like attention to detail and
quality alive while creating timeless
premium street wear for ourselves and
others, he explains. The collection
derives from the duos experience of living
in Dubai and the Emirates diverse culture
and lifestyle. We integrate these with the
monochrome shades of UAEs traditional
clothing, classic silhouettes, high-quality
prints and modern detailing on premium
garments, Mike adds. As front-runners
for street culture in the region, the

developing scene is encouraging for the

duo. With large events like Sole DXB,
you can really see the demand for street
culture is increasing. When meeting
other designers, brands and figures of
the culture outside of the UAE, they all
mention that they have heard positive
things about the growing scene in Dubai,
which is great for a city so young, Flo
says. Amongst Fews first delivery consists
of durable soft handle tees, embroidered
sweaters and hoodies made from 100%
Peruvian cotton, snapbacks, and leather
bags. Shop at www.amongstfew.com

WEKAFORE DUBAI

Urbanwear because they are no rules on

the street, says Wekafore Jibril, the head
designer for the label, who reminisces
about the times of du-rags, baggy denim
pants and Nike AF1s. Wanting to endorse
unique perspectives, Wekafore Dubai
was founded to explore a mindset that
goes deeper than just clothes; it is a way
of communicating without talking. We
realised that there are no brands that

really represent Dubai; the Deira lifestyle

or switching it up to the classy Downtown
lifestyle. Thats what we do - New Street,
Wekafore explains. This season, the label
is seeking to redefine streetwear by giving
it an avant-garde touch with inspirations
that come from a place of solitude and
simplicity. The idea of young people
who go to school and work looking really
sleek, yet street-smart, he says. Theres

a strong push for individuality and selfidentity in the labels message, which is
core in the expression of streetwear. I
am tired of fancy girls. And hes also
tired of everyone wanting to dress like
Kanye West or ASAP Rocky. Our task
now is to convince people that urban
brands from Dubai are just as good and
fashion forward.

Photo Credit: Moez Achour & Alex Callueng

FOCUS / 63

64

JUNIORS BE JUNIOR

Vibrant, young and hip, Juniors be Junior

fills the local market gap for affordable
funky streetwear and accessories. It was
almost like an accidental venture for
Yasmeen Al-Naif, who dived into the world
of branding and videography despite an
academic background in management
and economics. Fashion was never on
the radar and I never had much of an
interest for it, let alone designing! Though

I definitely have always had an eye for

clothing with a dress sense that is different
from the crowd, she explains. Finding an
interest in urbanwear, Yasmeen started
the label as a platform to merge her talents
in visual arts with designing. Streetwear
items can be made to look extremely cool,
and also as statement pieces, she says.
While Dubai seems to be the burgeoning
regional centre for street culture, theres

definitely a myriad of elements at play.

Lots of home-grown designers are doing
well but I feel that the actual movement
is pioneered through the art industry in
Dubai, which is trickling into a changing
urban fashion scene, she says. Juniors be
Junior currently carries monochromatic
unisex staples of sweatshirts, sweatpants,
tshirts, snapbacks and beanies at www.
juniorsbejunior.com

FOCUS / 65

THE PERSONALITIES

Two female popstars stand out in

championing the rise of urbanwear
for women: Rihanna and Rita Ora,
whose dressing styles evoke the best
of streetwear with luxury brands.
Equally comfortable in couture gowns
as she is in her favourite New Balance
sneakers, Rihannas street-style looks
have always veered towards stylised

hoodies, sweatpants, cropped tops

and statement tees. The popstar, who
was honoured with a CFDA Fashion
Icon Award last year, is also always
on-point with her mix and matches,
luxurious fur coats with biker tees and
torn jeans with stilettos. Meanwhile,
Rita Ora is the queen of bomber jackets,
sweatshirts and co-ords, prompting her

collaboration with Adidas Originals last

year. The sell-out collection has brought
on a second instalment which will focus
on Pop-Art. The British singer has a
penchant for beanies and is a favourite
with Moschino designer Jeremy Scott.
She was one of the first privileged few
to don the brands Spongebob sweater
dress.

66

FASHION / 67

INNER
WARRIOR
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

IT IS A PLAY ON
THE CONCEPT OF
STRENGTH FROM
ALL PERSPECTIVES.
THE SUBTLE
REPRESENTATION
OF THE POWERFUL
SWORD IN THE
ARABIC LETTER ALEF
IS COMBINED WITH
ITS AUTHORITATIVE
STATURE
AS THE OPENING
ALPHABET FOR THE
LANGUAGE.

68

his philosophy characterises the collaboration

between jewellery designer Nadine Kanso of
Bil Arabi and Qatars own style blogger Anum
Bashir of Desert Mannequin. The exploration
of strength, courage and adventure in the form
of a womans inner warrior comes together in
the Alef/20 capsule collection of eight unique pieces integrating
Nadines signature work with Arabic typography and Anums
minimal aesthetics.
The collection of cuffs, earrings, pendants and rings depicting
various versions of the alphabet, with only twenty pieces available
per design, is crafted using 18-carat gold and embellished with
diamonds and sapphires. The overall design of the collection
stemmed from something personal: a diamond and sapphire
set I had designed for my wedding as part of my dowry. Nadine
loved the initial design and we decided to adapt and modify it in
a way that reflected greatly on our personal aesthetics. I wanted
something strong and minimal, and Nadine wanted to add a
unique sparkle and Arabize it, Anum explains.
The duos mutual love for art and appreciation for people with
a cool and unique style got them working on the pieces that
celebrate cultural identity and individuality. As a multi-medium

artist, Nadines work for Bil Arabi has been widely celebrated
in the region for representing a contemporary Arab voice. The
creative meeting between the two personalities has also sparked
a new friendship, as they share the journey of their artistic
collaboration.
How did the collaboration come about ?
Anum: I have always loved Bil Arabi and greatly admire the work
of Nadine. As an artist, shes just plain ol cool! With Nadine,
it was apparent from the get-go that she gravitates towards
individuals who wish to leave a mark and be different. And Ive
always felt the same. Our quick friendship blossomed into a
collection. I wanted 2015 to be the year I did something special
with someone remarkable, so I asked Nadine how she felt about
collaborating, and she said, yes!.
Nadine: The first time I noticed Anum was on Desert Mannequins
Instagram. It was fresh, different and had an identity of her own,
and her penchant for art, which is something that I love too. A few
weeks later, I received an email inquiring about The LOVE Cuff
(from the collection) and I immediately recognised the name!
From there on, it was a phone call, then a lunch, then a lot of talks
and great time spent. We both hit it off and had mutual feelings

FASHION / 69

about a lot of brands and art-related topics. Collaborations are

usually not a walk in the park but I have to say this one and my
mens line collaboration have just been wow.
How did the concept of Strength appear?
Anum: I think women increasingly represent strength these
days. There is an inner warrior in us: a desire to constantly
surpass what we have achieved, to grasp and conquer something
bigger and better. I see Nadine and how she has managed to
create something so recognisable in less than a decade. And
that comes from being strong, and possessing an inner passion
that fuels our journey. Not only do we share similar traits, and
now a blossoming friendship, I feel Ive learned so much from a
wonderful person.
Nadine: The Alef in its shape has the elements of a sword and
being the first letter makes it a strong and powerful letter. In this
collection, everything is about the Alef, not only because of its
shape but also representative of Anums initial and its beautiful
meaning, which is Blessing. A lot of similarities brought us
together; our characters as women with a sense of responsibility,
ambition and drive, the way we look at life and the power we hold
in our heart, all these elements are the essence of strength in my

opinion.
How do you identify with being a warrior?
Anum: My husband tells me, Youre a fighter, and rarely accept
defeat or no for an answer. Your inner warrior is fiercely loyal, has
a lot of love to give, and a spirit thats filled with optimism.
Nadine: A warrior is someone who doesnt accept injustice and
unfairness, someone who has the strength to endure and be
patient. In many ways, I am like that.
Who are women of strength to you?
Anum: Anyone who has ever suffered greatly and yet still
managed to achieve an immense amount. People lead by
example. My mother did just that.
Nadine: I admire women, kids, men who live in war zones, in
oppression and yet manage to smile and walk to school, work
under hard circumstances. People who are sick and still get up
every morning and thank God for what they have. People who
achieve. The capsule collection will be launched during Art Dubai
this month. The pieces will be available in Per Lei Couture in
Doha, Harvey Nichols and S*uce Rocks in Dubai, and online on
Luisa Via Roma.