Cordless drill - Improving the battery

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Cordless drill - Improving the battery

by BrianH (/member/BrianH/)

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Posted:
May 24, 2006

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FLV/KNMV/QOLEP27ZHT8/FLVKNMVQOLEP27ZHT8.LARGE.jpg)

I hate it when my cordless drill gives up in the middle of a job. It seems that the
supplied battery packs just don't cut it. So I opened up the battery pack and
replaced the NiCads with much longer lasting NiMH batteries. Now I get a much
longer use between charges.

(/id/Rechargeable-BatteryCapacity-Tester)

(/id/Full-Size-R2D2on-a-budget)

(/id/Pirate-Ship-Helm)

Tags:

Step 1: Disassemble the battery pack

Drill (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keyword-drill/)
battery (/tag/type-id/category-workshop/keywordbattery/)

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My battery pack had 4 Torx screws (I later replaced with regular Phillips screws
for easier access). Inside you'll find 10 NiCad batteries. They appear to be just a
bit smaller than 'C' cells, and all attached together in series. 1.2 volts X 10 cells
= 12 volts. The cells are marked as 1300 mAH which is why they don't last very
long. You will probably want to photograph the arrangement of batteries since
you will need to make a new pack look just like this. Also notice the thin insulator

Free Drill powered by a

laptop battery
(http://www.instructables.com
/id/Free-Drill-poweredby-a-laptop-battery
Make a cordless drill to run
off batteries or a wall outlet
(http://www.instructables.com
/id/Make-a-cordless-drillto-run-off-batteries-or-a-wa
Run A Drill Off A Car
Battery
(http://www.instructables.com
/id/Run-A-Drill-Off-ACar-Battery
battery adaptor for
cordless tool
(http://www.instructables.com
/id/battery-adaptorfor-cordlessBattery Adaptor for
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that keeps the top battery from shorting against the batteries on the bottom.

Step 2: Assemble the new pack of batteries

cordless tool version 2

(http://www.instructables.com
/id/Battery-AdaptorSee More
(http://www.instructables.com/tag/typeid/?q=&utm_source=base&
utm_medium=related-instructables&
utm_campaign=related_test)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FNF/6IBE/3SXEP27ZHV6/FNF6IBE3SXEP27ZHV6.LARGE.jpg)

Aquire a new set of identically sized batteries. In my case the size is called
'Sub-C'. I got them at BatterySpace.com for $24.00. They come with tabs
attached. Carefully assemble the new cells into the same arrangement as the
original, and solder the tabs appropriately. Be careful not to short out a cell while
assembling it - even briefly! You will also need to scratch the surface of the leads
before soldering and put a thin coat of solder on each tab before assembly
(called tinning). Re-assemble and test. Be sure to re-use the fusable link that
came with the original battery pack

Step 3: Notes

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FQW/S92S/IVREP27ZK9F/FQWS92SIVREP27ZK9F.LARGE.gif)

Capacity:The new batteries are rated at 3000 mAH, so expect more than twice
the run time than the original pack. You may wonder -- will the higher capacity
hurt the tool? No: the important thing here is that the voltage is the same, but
you may end up working the tool harder with the increased capacity, so don't
over-do it. I've been using it for about a year and a half, and it's been excellent.

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Charging: Since my old charger is expecting to charge 1300MAH NiCads, it will

require a much longer charging time. The spec sheet that comes with your new
batteries should help you here. Also checkout batteryuniversity.com
(http://www.batteryuniversity.com/) for more important detailed info on charging
different types of batteries. A better charging method may increase your battery
life.
Why do the batter packs die? I've been analyzing the old cells, and I've noticed
that several of the cells are bad, but many of them are ok - it only takes one dud
to render a battery pack useless.
Since the drill came with two battery packs, I can combine the good ones to
make a second working pack. The old cells can be tested as shown below - the
important part here is the load. I've used a flashlight bulb as a load which also
server as a visual indicator of the battery's charge. Testing without the load will
give useless results. I've seen some cells read 1.2volts without a load -- which
seems good, but drop to 0.3 volts when the load is added -- clearly a dud.
Economics: A good mod should be economical too! Sears wants $40.00 for a
new battery pack - if you can find it (I paid about $75 for the tool with two
batteries - so why is a replacement so expensive?) So with this mod, I get a
better battery for $24.00
Safety notes: Like many of the projects here on instructables, there are
potential safety problems if you don't know what you are doing -- so if you don't
know your series circuits from your parallel circuits STOP! don't attempt to
perform this mod - it can be potentially dangerous if the cells are mis-wired or
short circuited. Also beware any leaking chemicals from bad cells. Also make
sure your soldering skills are sufficient before working on this project. A reader
from Makezine's blog noted that one of the solder tabs is thinner than the others
- this acts as a fuse - make sure you include the fuse in your completed pack.
Environmental issues: dispose used NiCad cells properly. Your new HiMh
batteries are more environmentally friendly though some still recommend
re-cycling.

Step 4: Soldering to a battery

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FV3/HBJD/GO2NLTGD/FV3HBJDGO2NLTGD.LARGE.jpg)

Update May 2011:

It's been five years since I posted this instructable - and I have another battery
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pack to work on. This one is a 19.2 volt pack, but still uses the Sub-C Ni-Cd
batteries that my old drill used. Once again, I found that there were a few cells
that were bad - making the entire battery pack useless. This time I'm just going
to replace the bad cells with identical cells. The procedure is the same, but this
time I decided to make a video of the soldering which can be a bit tricky.
I've already removed the bad cell from the pack - now I'm going to replace it with
a good one.
Be careful not to short circuit any of the cells while soldering.

(I should have cleaned off the soldering tip better before I started)

We have a be nice comment policy.

Please be positive and constructive.

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russ_hensel (/member/russ_hensel/)

9 days ago

Reply

Just a note to let you know I have added this to the collection: Cordless-Drill!

(/member Battery-Maintenance
/russ_hensel/)

>> http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-Drill-Battery-Maintenance/
(http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-Drill-Battery-Maintenance/)
Take a look at a bunch of different/similar approaches to this project.
flag

vinniej (/member/vinniej/)

10 months ago

Reply

Well this is a good "smack it a good one" story;

(/member
/vinniej/)

I have a multi-rotor that I crashed hard into a tree, wall, car and fence. Only my
second RC flight, ever. The quad copter then would only give an error
message via led's and would not work, I was devastated because I was out
$600.00 + I had saved hard for--took me a year. The LED code said "call the
company" RIGHT its in China and I gave up after several days of no answer
and multiple attempts to decipher Cinglish instructions. After two days of
internet searching I found a forum post buried on page 100K of a Google
search and it said a company rep for this quad copter advised him (the forum
poster) on the same problem recommending the following fix: Remove the
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"brain" (a DJI NAZA V-2 in this case) and hold it in your right hand about 7" above
a ceramic counter top with the writing on top, then rap it moderately hard on the
counter top .
I was reluctant but desperate so I tried it. To my total amazement it not only fixed it
but it flew better than ever after this "smack it a good one" fix.
flag

dodgeramman (/member/dodgeramman/)

11 months ago

Reply

I'm a bit skeptical but there is an easier way than doing this and doesn't cost
. batteries built up with crystal like particles (best way I can explain it )
that makes your NiCad batteries lose capacity over time . I've come across a
way try and zap them with a battery charger without taking them apart or
buying new batteries . I zapped a couple batteries I've had since buying a 4
piece set in the 1990's 18 volt Dewalt .Checking now to see how long it will
last just in a dewalt radio . Will post results later as I'm experimenting now .

(/member anything
/dodgeramman/)

flag

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

3 years ago

Reply

Almost 6 years later, and still good information.

(/member
/ironsmiter/)

The one thing I took away from this, that i will be grateful for as long as I can
remember, is the Soldering Video. That little trick/tip is going into the printed
long-term storage
flag

MTtoo (/member/MTtoo/)

(/member
/MTtoo/)

ironsmiter

3 years ago

Reply

Ironsmiter, I need to pick your brain a bit. I have a stack, probably a

couple dozen, batteries of various makes that I have "liberated" from a
big box stores recycling box. One at a time naturally!! Most are 18
volts. My 18 volt charger is dead. Now to the question.....Would it be
possible to use a 120 AC transformer that puts out 24 volts AC? Read
on before you shoot me down. Put a bridge rectifier on the output to
convert the AC voltage to DC.
The new transformer is a Honeywell 120/208/240V, 60 cy, primary to
24 VAC 40VA secondary. I am sure the 40 VA would take some time to
charge a 18 volt drill motor battery. All of the instructavles I have read
deal strictly with batteries. None mentions the care and feeding of the
chargers. Care to share any helpful hints?
I am not a professional so I needed someone with brains to clarify my
idea.
flag

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

MTtoo

3 years ago

Reply

wow, wow WOW... overkill.

(/member
/ironsmiter/)

Unless you're putting dozens of those cells in parrallel, 40VA is gonna

DESTROY them.
I'll give you a summery of my research and calculations, as best I can.
Bear in mind, my power supply is going to be a 30 volt HP printer
power-brick.
That brought my current limiting resistor VERY low ohmage, and
wattage. 10 Ohm, and 1/4 watt.
Now, since you're starting with 40 volt...
The charging voltage is going to be approximately 1.4 v per cell.
You have what, 15 cells? (15 x 1.2 vdc nominal = 18 vdc)
So you need 1.4 x 15 = 21 vdc to charge.
24 v (supply voltage) - 21 vdc = 3 vdc voltage drop across the resistor.
Your cells are probably 2.5 Ahr. You need to charge C/10 , or
0.25amps.
R = E/I = 3 v / 0.25 = 12 ohms.
3 v / 12 ohms = 0.25 A
3 v x .25 A = 0.75 watts

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I would upgrade to a 1w or eve a 10w resistor. they're only a dollar, and the
added safety is worth it, imho.
You'll have to check VERY carefully. but if all the packs are NiCd, then
12-14 hours with the charger, and resistor described should give you a full
charge. It should also be safe if you forget and leave it on a little too long.
NiCd can survive almost indefinite charging at 1/10C rate. The extra energy
gets converted to heat, and exits the battery through the cell wall.
Bear in mind, quick chargers like my original, have very sophisticated
circuitry... but mine charged at almost 1C. it did shut off after that though,
as a safety feature. Charge at 1C for 10 hours, and you better have the
fire-department on speed-dial, cause around hour 3, it's gonna go
Fwoosch!
Consider some googleing on "homemade NiCd chargers.
Tons of info is to be had at RC groups. they use packs much like these to
fly their planes(though they're starting to switch over to li-po and li-fe)
Doh, just forgot.. you'll have to measure the ACTUAL voltage, under load,
because you're gonna get a voltage drop over the rectifier. You're going to
have to recalculate using the lower, measured voltage.
flag

MTtoo (/member/MTtoo/)

(/member
/MTtoo/)

ironsmiter

3 years ago

Reply

Ironsmiter, you must be an electronics engineer!!

I certainly appreciate your rapid reply.
I am not that much into electronics, and had to re-read your reply
several times to boil it down to my level. I am more mechanical and my
dabbling into electronics is fixing things broken. Determine what is bad,
cut out the old and replace it with a like item. Your reply was a real
insight in how to determine (calculate) the needed resistor.
An amazing bit of info can be had on these new-fangled gadgets
(computers) if a person knows where to look for it. I wish computers
had been available when I was young. I pre-date Television!!
Correct me if I am wrong, but this is what I determined from your reply.
18 volt batteries have 15 1.2 volt cells.
To charge these cells will require 21 volts @ .25 Amps for 12 to 14
hours for a full charge.
To drop the 24 volt output from the transformer, after it has gone thru
the rectifier, will require a 12 ohm 1 watt (or better yet a 10 watt)
resistor.
Now if I can just figure out the 40VA output of the transformer...Many
years ago I have read how the VA is calculated, but it escapes me now.
I REALLY appreciate your thorough explanation of my question.
Have a GREAT DAY, WEEK, and YEAR
flag

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

MTtoo

3 years ago

Reply

Nope! I started the same way you did.

(/member
/ironsmiter/)

Just happens, I post-date color TV.

Though i do remember, vividly, when the Internet switched and we all
started using the WOrldWideWeb.
When I started, we Gophered instead of Googled.
If, and that's a pretty big IF, i got my numbers right then...
12 ohm, 1Watt(or higher) resistor should take your power supply, and
turn it into a very crude 1/10C "slow charger" for your 18V battery
packs.

Pardon me while I plagiarize.

The only difference between W and VA is the power factor. The power
factor, unless known, is an approximation. For purposes of our
calculations, we use a power factor of .85. The VA value is always
higher than the value for W.
W to VA W / .85 = SAME VALUE EXPRESSED IN VA
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VA TO W VA * .85 = SAME VALUE EXPRESSED IN W

flag

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

ironsmiter

3 years ago

Reply

oh, and to be VERY CLEAR for the folks trolling in the background, or
the years to come...

(/member in
/ironsmiter/)

that's AFTER the transformer is rectified.

I actually have absolutely NO idea what'd happen if you fed the
unrectified AC into the battery(though I have a pretty good guess, and
it involves letting out a lot of magic smoke. You know, the stuff that
makes electronics work until you let it out?)
flag

Dr.Bill (/member/Dr.Bill/)

(/member
/Dr.Bill/)

ironsmiter

1 year ago

Reply

The un-rectified AC would just blow the wiskers off and the NiCad
would work good again. Just have to limit the AC time to a few
seconds...
flag

bclamore (/member/bclamore/)

2 years ago

Reply

The Dremel tool effectively removes the surface oxidation. I suspect this is
(/member why the solder sticks. You could probably do just as well with alcohol and
/bclamore/)
some flux. A rougher surface should also help prevent the solder site from
being flaked-off. Dremel tool looks like an easy solution too.
flag

endadmcc (/member/endadmcc/)

2 years ago

Reply

Hi i have been reading this interesting section and wondered is it possible to

(/member do the same with Li-ion batterys as i have a 21.6v with 2 battery packs and
/endadmcc/)
none work . When placed in the charger or drill they put the overheating light
on. Anyone think this can be fixed.
Thanks
flag

mygiveaway (/member/mygiveaway/)

2 years ago

Reply

I'm a newbie on here.... Need a little help is poss

taken apart my Makita 18v Cordless drill 2.6ah NiMH battery because it
would not charge (flashing red and green). I've tested all the cells and they all
read 1.34v so i'm thinking its one of the three components that is stopping the
battery from charging (see image). It was hard work getting the cells out of the
case and i think this may be an indication that the battery may have been over
heated at some point. The charger is working fine with my other battery
although that battery is also starting to loose power quickly.

(/member I've
/mygiveaway/)

Does anyone know what each of these components do and how I can replace
\ bypass one or all three to get the battery to charge again?
Info: the red component was glued to the top of one of the other cells in the
pack.

(http://cdn.instructables.com/FJQ/COUH/GZGT3NG9

/FJQCOUHGZGT3NG9.LARGE.jpg)

(http://cdn.instructables.com/F79/GIDZ

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(http://cdn.instructables.com/FUX/AAEF

/GZGT3NGA/F79GIDZGZGT3NGA.LARGE.jpg)

/GZGT3NGB/FUXAAEFGZGT3NGB.LARGE.jpg)
(http://cdn.instructables.com/FOK/LR94/GZGT3NGD/FOKLR94GZGT3NGD.LARGE.jpg)
flag

mygiveaway (/member/mygiveaway/)

mygiveaway

2 years ago

Reply

I was told that the;

(/member
/mygiveaway/)

rectangular Klixon component is just a fuse,

The red component is a thermal cut-out\reducer switch used for
reducing the power input when on the charger if overheating occurs,
The yellow component is a thermal cut-out\reducer switch used for
reducing the power output when on the battery is in the drill but
overheating occurs due to heavy usage.
All components worked on this battery, so i guess the batteries can no
longer hold a charge.
Hope this info helps some one.
flag

budrootbeer (/member/budrootbeer/)

3 years ago

Reply

Does someone make and sell a converter to actually plug in your 19.2 sears
drill and saws? Sometimes at home you don't always need to be
cordless.

(/member cordless
/budrootbeer/)

flag

Dr.Bill (/member/Dr.Bill/)

(/member
/Dr.Bill/)

budrootbeer

2 years ago

Reply

I removed the battery from my drill motor and just connected a wire to
each terminal with clips that fit and plugged the other end into my 25
amp switching power supply and it works good. lotsa power.
flag

mymatemark (/member/mymatemark/)

2 years ago

Reply

Ni-Cad & Nimh are good at certain price points but in the long term the best
performance comes from Lithium or Li-ion as they last longer, do not
have a memory, they are lighter & provide more power right through to the last
bit of use. Lithium or Li-ion batteries have no memory so when you stop using
the power tool & you go to use it again in a few months the battery has the
same level of power as previous. Another good thing is they do not react to
extreme heat & cold the way Ni-Cad or Ni-MH does.

(/member battery
/mymatemark/)

No need to warm batteries up anymore with Li-ion

flag

instructableken (/member/instructableken/)

2 years ago

Reply

I don't know if anyone actually mentioned the size name of the batteries used
(/member for power tools. It is "Sub C". I buy tem on eBay and always buy NiMH. Many
/instructableken/)
of my older tools are NiCad and the NiMH gives you more power and life.
flag

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jamesjghome (/member/jamesjghome/)

2 years ago

Reply

I just joined this site by happenstance.

(/member
/jamesjghome/)

I thought I was the only Mcgiver left but I see not. When I was a child, my Dad
and mom called me screwdriver fingers due to the fact that I had to tear
something open and see how it worked; even though not broken I just could
not resist
I did the battery thing about tens years ago when I discovered the C batterers
matched my flashlight. Aside from all the data and info in above links, if you
can imagine and interpolate you can do this in about most everything
Thank God, Men are still men
flag

MACSWAG (/member/MACSWAG/)

3 years ago

Reply

Thank you so much for the very helpful post,I've just thumped one of my
18v.bats on the deck and it is now charging,well the charger light is
bright so I'll test in the morning,the other one same procedure the charger light
comes on but quite dim , any more suggestions please or how to check which
cells are duff would be helpful ,I'm in the U.K. so don't have the same suppliers
as you chaps across the sea,

(/member Draper
/MACSWAG/)

MAC.
flag

ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

MACSWAG

3 years ago

Reply

and forgot to mention...

(/member
/ironsmiter/)

Take your two packs, and rebuild one good one out of them.
With the now empty battery case, rebuild it will ALL fresh cells.
That should get you the best bang for your buck/euro/pound.
Keep any extra good cells for when, not if, WHEN, your newly repaired
pack
kills another of it's cells. When you run out of THOSE spare cells...
recycle all the old cells, and rebuild with new tabbed cells for what is
now the third lease on life for that battery pack :-)
Now, we're 10-15 years into the future of your tool, and it's probably
worn out. Time for a new cold-fusion powered drill.
flag

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ironsmiter (/member/ironsmiter/)

MACSWAG

3 years ago

Reply

You don't need the same suppliers, for checking which cell is bad, just
(/member any old cheap volt/ohm meter.
/ironsmiter/)
As for buying the new tabbed battery cells... don't we all buy them from
the same Chinese manufacturers?
Check the image in step three.
If the battery is freshly charged, that "light bulb load" is pretty important.
It helps bleed off the "surface charge" on the cells, and gives you a
"working voltage" to measure.
Test the cell voltage after 2-3 min of running the light.

If you're "lucky" like I am...

I ran my batteries in a sawsall, till it quit sawing.
hen took apart the packs that weren't performing(one lasted less than 3
min of sawing)
When i took apart my Bosch 24V pack, most of the cells tested fine
with the volt meter.
FIVE of them tested ZERO volts.
Guess which cells were bad? ;-)
This only really works if its a few bad cells, and you run the battery to
"dead".
The down side is, if a cell is only starting to die, this may not catch it.
flag

eel_dahc (/member/eel_dahc/)

3 years ago

Reply

I just redid one of my Craftsman 19.2 batteries. What I did was a little bit
(/member different. I bought an 18v battery pack from Harbor Frght (HF). It was a gamble
/eel_dahc/)
really because I didn't know for sure how the batteries were arranged in the
pack. Luckily they are arranged in the same shape, however they are
connected differently. Luckily though there are wires already soldered and
coming off of the pack that are long enough to make it work. My original
craftsman pack had various bad cells. But, the cell connected to the
terminals(the one on the top of the pack) was still in great shape. So, I snipped
the nickel strip off the bottom( leave as much as you can though so when you
solder you can hold the strip with pliers to sink the heat ) side of the top battery
and the negative wire going to the rest of the pack. I then carefully pulled out
the fuse/resistor wires making sure not to damage them. Then I soldered the
red wire coming from the HF battery to the bottom of the cell with the terminals
on it and the black wire from the HF pack to the black wire going to the cell
with the terminals I then tucked it all into the craftsman battery case, put the
top on, screwed it back and then charged it up. Perfect. If you do this make
sure the battery with the terminals is still good. If it is not then you will have to
replace that cell with a new one. Best of all, the pack cost $10, on sale for
$12.99 with a 20% coupon.
flag

gsnoorky (/member/gsnoorky/)

3 years ago

Reply

That pic looks like my 12V Sears Companion drill battery--I'm working on that
(/member now. It doesn't seem to work very long in the drill--a few secs, and it slows. I
/gsnoorky/)
did do the battery starter trick--it was at ~10V--now, it's at 13+ V. I rapped it on
the floor a few times and put it back on the charger--instructions say to leave it
on for several hrs.--maybe even six.
I'm also working on my two Milwaukee 18V "Power-Plus" batts. Using the
same trick, one seems now to be the usable battery for the drill I had
loved--the drill turns solidly again! The other batt may be too far gone. It did go
from 0V to ~3.2V, though. The charger doesn't accept it yet. I'm nowhere near
ending the fight for it: I'll cut it open and go NiMH, if necessary.
Big box HW stores want $70-$80+ for such Milwaukee 18V batteries: Well, I
then knew that the expensive drill screw wished to turn into myself! Amazon
was somewhat more reasonable: $50+, yet, I haven't checked lately. Thus, I
haven't used my originally priced $200+ drill for a couple of years. I was about
to give up and purchase Skil or B&D--or even cheapo HFT or Big Lots!
(These Milwaukee batteries don't use the familiar vertical post most drill batts
often use. Three side-shielded terminals "slide" horizontally into the drill
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Cordless drill - Improving the battery

11 de 13

http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-drill---Improving-the-battery/?ALLSTEPS

bottom or the charger. As for checking such unmarked terminals for polarity, use a
voltmeter to find the terminals which give a positive voltage reading--perhaps after
charging. For this Milwaukee 18V "Power Plus" ni-cad battery, apparently the
terminal on the far left (terminal side up and terminals facing you) is neg (-)--the
one directly next to it, on the right, is the positive terminal (+).)
Thanks for the great inputs here!
flag

cjq (/member/cjq/)

(/member
/cjq/)

3 years ago

Reply

Hi folks, I've read comments about re building 19.2 Craftsman packs, I still
have a problem. I bought 6,000 mah batts with tabs . The pack is complete
and has been charged . I had difficulty getting the charging to start. I found the
"old" battery pack corroded real bad. There is a tiny circuit component ,a
thermo device I think . I had to by pass thin device . I also found a "fuse" link ?
I think it is ,and that was broken,I by passed that also. Now here's my
concern,,the charger has a red lamp to indicate charging and a green for full
charge. Upon initial incertion the green lamp lighted . I know the new batteries
needed charging but the red lamp did NOT light. I left the pack on charge
overnight and the batts have charged to 21.5 volts surface charge . After a
little use the voltage dropped to 20.5 . How do I correct my charging difficulty.
The battery pack had NO temperature rise overnight. I'm thinking the Batteries
were in a trickle charge,,,make sence? I need some technical help Thank You
CJQ
flag

bricabracwizard (/member/bricabracwizard/)

cjq

3 years ago

Reply

I think if you want lots of answers post this question to the forum,
hopefully you'll get an answer soon, sorry I don't know the answer.

(/member
/bricabracwizard/)

flag

dcobrien2000 (/member/dcobrien2000/)

6 years ago

Reply

I have a set of 18V Coleman tools that came with 2 batteries. A while ago one
(/member became hard to charge and finally the other failed. I could not find
/dcobrien2000/)
replacements anywhere so I was faced with buying new tools (lots of $$). I
found this post and then the link about reviving rechargeable batteries, it said
that crystals can build up in the batteries and short them out. As a fix it
suggested hitting them with a blunt object. I opened up the batteries like this
post suggests and then whacked the cluster of batteries firmly with a rubber
mallet. To my surprise it worked, they now hold a charge and work great, no
new tools!
flag

solaralternatives (/member/solaralternatives/)

dcobrien2000
3 years ago

I wonder if that physical shock breaks the crystals

(/member like electrically shocking does. Anyone try this with
/solaralternatives/)
an unprotected Li-ON cell?

Reply

flag

snet (/member/snet/)

(/member
/snet/)

dcobrien2000

3 years ago

Reply

I recently ran a cross a Makita 6343D with 2 18v NI_CD batteries and a
charger on one of the free auction sites. When I received the drill one
of the batteries worked fine but the other wouldn't work at all, even
though the charger showed it "charging".
I wasn't too concerned since this whole lot was FREE but after reading
this I simply tried cleaning the metal contacts with rubbing alcohol and
lightly wacking the bottom of the battery with the rubber handle of a
hammer and POOF it started working again and holds a charge.
Thanks again for the great advice! =)
flag

fromjim (/member/fromjim/)

dcobrien2000
15/02/2015 20:54

Cordless drill - Improving the battery

(/member
/fromjim/)

http://www.instructables.com/id/Cordless-drill---Improving-the-battery/?ALLSTEPS

4 years ago

I was about to trash a good

Craftsman cordless drill because the
batteries would not accept a charge,
I was in the process of trying to find
good replacement batteries at a
reasonable price when I came upon
this site, I tried the above tactic,
whacking the battery pack hard
several times on a block of hard
wood, I then placed it in the charger
and it began to charge, an hour later
I had a fully charged battery, even
the weak battery that would take a
small charge benifited from this
procedure.

Reply

Thanks a lot guys,

God bless
Jim
flag

crazyg (/member/crazyg/)

dcobrien2000

4 years ago

Reply

i will try that:-)

(/member
/crazyg/)

flag

wupme (/member/wupme/)

(/member
/wupme/)

dcobrien2000

5 years ago

Reply

Its always surprising how many technical stuff you can fix with
whacking it. A wack actually fixed my digital preamp on wich an amp
technican gave up... Its also a cool way to fix something.
flag

-max- (/member/-max-/)

wupme

4 years ago

Reply

LOL! i once fixed a camera with "lens error" by trowing it at a wall!

(/member
/-max-/)

flag

jeff-o (/member/jeff-o/)

dcobrien2000

5 years ago

Reply

I'm delighted when the fix for a problem is "hit it with a hammer." :D
(/member
/jeff-o/)

flag

chenxinghao (/member/chenxinghao/)

5 years ago

Reply

I have two bad Craftsman 19.2 volts EX batteries that when pluging in to the
(/member charger it will go GREEN and no charging to take place. The bolts seem to be
/chenxinghao/)
the HEX type but my HAX drive could not go in. I noticed that there is a little
round/dot in the HEX openning that is preventing the tool getting in. What type
to tools to use to unscrew the bolts?
flag

The Ideanator (/member/The+Ideanator/)

chenxinghao 5 years ago

Reply

I've seen those, they suck. I'd do a search for special security bits.
(/member
/The+Ideanator/)

flag

zappenfusen (/member/zappenfusen/)

The Ideanator

3 years ago

Reply

But in a pinch.
(/member
/zappenfusen/)

bgentle (/member/bgentle/)

flag

chenxinghao

It is a security screw that uses a torx screwdriver with a hole in the center.
Take a punch and punch the round dot as you call it out or use a dremel
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Reply

4 years ago

too to grind it out then use a torx

screw driver to remove the screw.
(/member
/bgentle/)

flag

Hubiewan (/member/Hubiewan/)

chenxinghao

4 years ago

Reply

Hi: I have broken off the little pin inside the security screw, allowing
(/member your regular torx bit to work. I do reccomend purchasing the security
/Hubiewan/)
bit set from Harbor Freight. On of them is cheap enough and quite
extensive. Hubiewan
flag

nukemmcssret (/member/nukemmcssret/)

chenxinghao 5 years ago

Reply

Get a drill bit a little bit smaller that the head of the screw and drill out
screws. The head should come off both screws. remove
the cover and there should be some of the screw exposed. You then
grab it with a pair of needle nose and turn out the screw.

(/member the stripped

/nukemmcssret/)

flag

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