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Submitted by:
AANCHAL JAIN,
ANKITA
Acknowledgement
I would like to express my sincere thanks to the Management and staff of ALOK INDUSTRIES
LTD. PROCESS DIVISION, VAPI for their outstanding Support and cooperation in our efforts to
gain knowledge about the practical aspects of textile industries during my Internship from 14
June,2013 to 14 July,2013.
I would like to take this opportunity to express my sincere and heartfelt gratitude to Mr.
Premendra Gopal (Plant head, Wider Width) for guiding us through all the processes involved in
the processing of the fabric.I also thankful to Mr. Vivek Tripathi (Human Resource Manager) for
planning out the schedule for internship and his guidance.
I would specially like to thank all the staff members and workers for helping me throughout the
internship and providing me with this valuable and useful information.
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Footwear design and development Institute
Part-I
Introduction to the Industry
1. Introduction
Alok Industries Limited
Alok Industries Limited is a fully integrated textile company and among the largest textile
manufacturers. Here at Alok they focus on world class infrastructure, best technology,
uncompromising quality standards, and dynamic product innovation.
Alok was established in 1986 as the private limited company, with their first polyester
texturising plant being set up in 1989. They became a public limited company in 1993. Over
the years, they have expanded into weaving, knitting, processing, home textiles and garments.
To ensure quality and cost efficiencies they have integrated backward into cotton spinning
and manufacturing partially oriented yarn through the continuous polymerization route. They
also provide embroidered products. Through the years they have evolved into a diversified
manufacturer of world-class home textiles, garments, apparel fabrics and polyester yarns
selling directly to manufacturers, importers, exporters, retailers and to some of the worlds
top brands.
Alok has recently entered the domestic retail segment through the wholly owned subsidiary,
Alok Retail India Limited, with a chain of stores named H&A that offer garments and home
textiles at attractive prices. Along with this Alok has also ventured into the realty space
through wholly owned subsidiaries with investments in some prestigious projects in Mumbai.
Retail
1. H&A: Alok Retail India Limited
2. GarbalAlok (UK) Ltd
Realty
Alok Infrastructure Pvt Ltd
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1.4Organizational Chart:
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1.4.1 ECO-Certification
Alok is the first Indian Textile company to have been awarded all three
certifications for its eco-friendly products as under:
1.4.2 PRODUCTS
Garments
Home Textiles
Polyester Yarn
Embroidered Fabric
Retailing
Vapi Plant
Wider Width
Normal Width
Yarn Dyeing
knits
Printing
So the woven grieg fabric is obtained from the Silvassa plant, according to the order, and
processed here.
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Terry Towel
Part-II
The Wider Width Plant
2.1 PROCESS FLOW
Prod. Development and Lab dip: - development of swatches of the shade sent
by the buyer samples are developed as per spec. and sent for buyers approval.
Buyer comments- The buyer approval or comments for some changes. If some
changes are asked then the samples are re-developed and sent again.
Purchase order: - The buyer sends the bulk order in the form of purchase
order.
Buyers approval: - The buyers approval of the piece which meets his
standards and this sample serves as the standard towel for reference between
the buyer and the manufacturer.
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Sales order: - The sales order is prepared and given to the PPC department of
the plan through the plant merchandiser.
Production Planning: - As per the sales order the PPC makes the production
plan along with the material requirement plan.
Processing: - Processing and finishing takes place as per the processing plan.
Final Q.A: The final Q.A takes places before packaging and dispatch to assure
quality of goods.
FLOWCHART 2.1
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NORMAL WIDTH
WIDER WIDTH
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Singeing
Desizing
Pre-Treatment Range
Mercerisation
Dyeing
Finishing
FLOWCHART 2.2
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Alok Industries has its own weaving plant at Silvassa. So it has its own production of woven
fabric as per sales order which is issued from the head office (Mumbai). Main advantage of it
is that it receives pre inspected fabric which is why inspection process here at the processing
plant is not given much emphasis but still there is a random inspection which takes place
during opening and stitching process.
Various activities have been done here as follows:
1. First of all, the sales order issued by head office is received by weaving unit, Silvassa.
2. Production of fabric as per required sales order quantity, construction and design.
3. Then, this fabric is dispatched to Alok industries Vapi, as per sales order and roll number
specifications.
4. Challan number/ Date entry at main gate.
5. Unloading of fabric rolls and allocation of rolls in greige stores place.
6. G.R.N. (Goods receipt note) is made.
7. PPC Department makes the production plan and issues it to the greys fabric for opening
asperpriority.
8. Opening of grey fabric and random inspection also takes place, Defects observed such as
holes, knots,oil stains, grease stains & weaving defects such as starting mark, missing end
etc.
9. Stitching of small rolls of same quality is done.
10.Roll wise checking report is made consisting of the type of defects, meter age, sort
number, party name, sales order number (SO) & Production Number (PO)
11. Trolleys and batch number are issued to the bleaching dept.
Description of Fabric quality is as follows:
1. 100% cotton fabric(both for bottom and shirting)
2. Polyester/ cotton blend (65:35, 80:20 & textured polyester)
3. Yarn dyed (Y/D) fabric etc.
Various Designs such as:
Plain fabric, twill, oxford, satin, dobby etc.
Lot number: It is that number which is given by grey section.
GRN (Good receipt number)/Year
2.5.1 Singeing
Singeing is the process of removing the loose hairy fibers protruding from the surface of the
cloth or yarn. Importance of Singeing:
The goods to be mercerized are singed to develop maximum luster in the fabric.
In order to impart a clearly defined and sharp design to the cloth in printing, the goods must
be singed.
If it is not singed, dulling of the pattern and the development of hairy edges takes place.
There are basically three types of singeing machines:
1. Plate singeing machine
2. Roller singeing machine
3. Gas singeing machine
2.5.2 Desizing
Desizing is the process of removing the size paste which is applied on the surface of the
warp yarns, before the weaving process.
If it is not removed, the hydrophobicity of the size paste will hinder the subsequent dyeing
and printing processes.
As the maximum fabric produced is cotton and cotton polyester blend so enzymatic desizing
is done.
At Alok Industries Gas singeingis mostly done. The flame of the gas is tangentially to
the fabric.
There are 2 Singeing machines. In 1 machine only singeing takes place while in the
other both singeing and desizing occur.
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Processing
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Singeing
Desizing
Washing
Steaming
Batching
FLOWCHART 2.3
2.6 BLEACHING
Before dyeing the fabric undergoes the process of bleaching to remove even the slightest
trace of natural color in it. The process is done not only when the fabric is to be dyed in some
other color but also when it is supposed to remain white.
Sodium hypochlorite and Hydrogen peroxide is used on cellulose fibers.
The purpose of bleaching includes the removal of the various natural, added or acquired
impurities from the grey cloth as efficiently as possible, with minimum or no damage to the
fibre and leaving the fabrics in a perfectly white state.
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The damage may be in terms of loss in tensile strength of the fabric which depends on the
severity of the bleaching process.
At Alok Ind. 3 Pre treatment range (PTR) are there. They have been manufactured by
Benninger. There are 2 types of PTR there. They are:
1. PTR with Injecta
2. PTR with Drum rollers
The only difference between these is in terms of the washing process. In case of drum-washer
the washing is done on the drums to prevent roping of fabrics like lycra.
Input: Singed and Desized fabric
Machine: Benninger PTR
2.6.1 Process:
Loading of the singed and desized fabric.
FLOWCHART 2.4
2.7 MERCERISATION
Mercerization is the preparation process of cotton or a cotton blend fabric after bleaching to
alter the chemical and physical properties of the fibers. In mercerization the bean like section
of the fiber becomes first elliptic and then circular, allowing a better reflection of light with a
consequent increase of luster. Moreover, the process of mercerization takes place to increase
the dye ability of the fabric.
There are two types of machines used for mercerization
Chain system - In chain mercerizing machine, the cloth is first allowed to shrink and
subsequently it is stretched.
Chainless - In chainless mercerizing machine, continuous tension is applied via chains
preventing the fabric from shrinking.
There are 2 merecerizer of Benninger in the wider width plant. One of the machines is
chainless and the other chain.
2.7.1 Process:
First fabric is fed in to the machine.
FLOWCHART 2.5
After mercerization, fabric is send for process control where the wetability, pH is
checked (it should be 5.5) and starch is tested by Tagua solution .if starch is present in
the solution it colours changes in to blue and if it is not present then colour will be
yellow.
2.6 DYEING
Dyeing is employed to give an all-over shade to the fabric. Coloration of fabric using the
method of dyeing involves the use of dye stuff which are capable of reacting and combing
with the textile fiber molecule, usually when in a water solution, and usually with other
auxiliary chemicals to enhance the process.
2.8.1 Objective:
To color textile substrates (like fibers, yarns, fabrics and garments) uniformly or with good
leveling.
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Achieve acceptable durability of color to further treatments in production and normal end
use.
Reproducing the required shade from batch to batch.
2.8.2 Selection Criteria
Suitability of the dye to various uses of the fabric.
Fiber content and fabric structure.
Required color fastness properties.
Cost and availability of the dyestuff.
Equipment used for dyeing
At Alok Ind. the different dyes used are:
1. Reactive dye
2. Vat dye
3. Disperse dye
2.8.3 Two ways of dyeing is followed:
1. Cold Pad-batch Dye
2. Pad Dry and Pad Steam
Three Cold Pad Batch (CPB) machines, two Continuous Dyeing range (CDR) and two
Soapers are there.
2.8.3.1 Cold Pad-batch Dyeing
This process is done on only cotton fabric.
2.8.3.1.1 Process:
The mercerized fabric is loaded on the pad-batch machine
After this the batch is left rotaAfter this the batched fabric
is taken into soaper machine fAfter this the batched fabric
is taken into soaper machine for washing. Here the fabric
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FLOWCHART 2.6
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FLOWCHART 2.7
2.7 WASHING:
The fabric after dyeing on CPB goes to the soaper machine for washing or for the removal of
the extra dyes in the fabric.
Alok industries have one soaper of Benninger.
2.9.1 Process:
The fabric is loaded and fed to the machine.
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2.8 FINISHING
There are 2 types of finishing
Mechanical:
1. Calendar
2. Sanforiser
3. Brushing
Chemical:
1. Stenter
2. Moisture Cross Linkage
2.10.1 Stenter
Stenter is used for finishing using chemicals. Stenter is done for width equalization. There are
4 sections in the stenter:
1. Drying
2. Heat setting
3. Finishing
4. Weft stretching
First fabric is passed through drying to heat setting then for finishing.After finishing the
fabric, it is passed for weft stretching.There are two types of stenter used in Alok Industries:
1. Oil heated (three in number)
2. Gas heated (two in number)
2.10.1.1 Oil heated
The fabric is given the finish.
The length and width of the fabric before and after treatment is compared.
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FLOWCHART
2.9
The fabric is now batched
after passing
through the J-scray.
2.10.2 Calendar
Calendaring improves lustre and makes fabric more softer. Fabric is passed between the
heated rollers. There are 3 rollers NiPCo roller, Cotton roller, Stainless steel roller.
Variation in pressure will give the colour variation.
2.10.3 Sanforiser
Sanforization is done for pre-shrinkage .It is also known as zerozero finishmachine. First
shrinkage is tested then according to it the pre-shrinkage is done. In this only warp shrinkage
can be controlled.
There are 2 sanforizer in the Alok Industry.
2.10.3.1 Process:
The fabric is loaded and fed to the machine.
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FLOWCHART 2.10
2.10.4 Brushing:
It is a mechanical finish given to the fabric.
Alok industries have three brushing machines of Xetma.
The brushing machine has twenty four rollers; twelve working clockwise and the other
twelve working anti-clockwise. The rollers are made of metal. The bristles of the roller
are also made of the metal.
2.11 INSPECTION
Visual inspection is done for the checking of fabric defects. 4 point system of inspection is
followed at Alok Industries with acceptance defect of 25. The acceptance of defects can
change according to the buyers demand. The inspection is done on the inspection machine.
There are 16 inspection machines.
2.12 PACKING
The packaging of fabric goods is done in the form of rolls on the packing machine using HDP
and LDP. There are altogether 2 packing machines of Penguin.
In roll packaging the finished rolls are fed into the machine with the help of A-frame. The
fabric is passed through the inclined board with the appropriate lightening. The sliding fabric
passes through the rollers which provide control motion to the fabric. The lower part of the
machine consists of a hanger which has the roll on which the fabric is wound. The maximum
width of the roll lies in between 60-64.
2.13 DISPATCHING
The packed lot is sent to the dispatch unit where the weight of the lot is taken by the
weighing scale. Now according to the orders received, the packing slips and invoices are
made and the slips are attached to the respective lot.
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Part-III
Printing
1. PRINTING
3.1 Printing
Printing is defined as localised application of dye or pigment in a paste form to generate a
pattern or design on the fabric. It is simply called as localised dyeing.
Steps in Printing Process:
Preparation of print paste
Printing of fabric
Drying
Fixation of dyestuff
Washing-off
At Alok Industries, there are:
Baby sampling
Engraving section
Digital printing
CAD Lab
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3.3 Rotary Screen Printing
Perforated circular (or cylindrical) metal screens are used for printing instead of the flat
screens. Each screen is individually driven. The print paste level inside the rotary screen is
automatically and constantly controlled. The transfer of printing paste through the
perforations of the screen on to the cloth is governed by specially designed squeegee blades.
Possible to fit the screen automatically whenever the machine stops, so that no stop marks are
produced. All screens fit in perfectly, independent of the movement of the fabric or the
blankets, so that a perfect fitting of the design is obtained consistently. Half-tone effects and
vertical lines can be produced very successfully by this method.
Speed of the machine can be adjusted from 10 to 100 m/min.
Printing machine is provided with a feed arrangement, a selvage alignment unit and a
continuous gluing unit for gumming down the fabric.
For cleaning, each rotary screen can be dismantled and washed.
The drying unit used hot air, the temperature of which is thermostatically controlled.
Company brand of printing machine: Reggiani Printing and Laxmi Printing machine
Number of machines: 3 Reggiani Printing and 1 Laxmi Printing
Printing Input: Dyed or bleached fabric, as per customers requirement.
3.3.1
Dye used:
Reactive dye
Vat dye
Disperse dye
3.3.2 Process
Loading of the fabric on the rotary machine. The fabric passes over the rubber blanket on
which there is a continuous flow of poly vinyl gum so as to stick the fabric. Maximum 12
rollers are possible in rotary printing. The fabric moves at the same speed as the rollers of the
machine.
The fabric passes from the blanket and through the rollers. Different rollers will have
their own designs and for different colors different rollers will be needed. The gum is
continuously washed at the other end.
The print paste is moved inside the rollers through a perforated pipe which
continuously pours throughout the roller and then on to the fabric.
The blanket after crossing the rollers goes through the slant mesh to reach the steam
chambers. The temperature in the steam chamber is 150 C.
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Output: Printed fabric is obtained
3.4 Steaming and Curing:
At Alok Industries, the make of the machine is of Benninger and Arioli Loop Steamer.
In 2 curing and steaming happens together and in 1 only curing is done.
The steam inside the chamber is of 102 C and 2 kg amount.
The fabric is left for 12 minutes inside the chamber.
The fabric moves with the speed of 9 m/min.
The process of curing and steaming depends upon the type of fabric used.
e.g. Vat dyed fabric requires steaming and then washing. Camouflage print can be
done by vat dyes.
For pigment printing only curing is done. The curing is done at 150 C. The curing is
basically done for the development of the prints after the printing process.
Input: Printed Fabric
3.4.1 Process
The printed fabric is loaded.
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3.5 WASHING
The washing process done depends upon the type of dyeing and printing done.
e.g. Vat dye requires washing after steaming whereas Pigment print does not require.
Input: Can be steamed or can be directly washed.
The fabric is loaded.
Then fabric is passed through 4 chambers for washing. The first three chambers
is for washing the fabric. The hot washing is done at 60-90 C. Soap and
peroxide is added.
The last chamber contains acid for neutralizing the alkaline soap.
After coming out from the wading chambers the fabric passes over the VDR.
There are altogether 16 rollers divided into 3 sets. The first two set is of 7 rollers
which are hot rollers. The third set consists of 2 rollers which are cold. The fabric
passes from the cold rollers and get rolled finally
The dried fabric roll is unloaded.
FLOWCHART 3.2
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For preparation of the screen photo emulsion coating is done on the screen and dried at 35 C
and 50% humidity. UV-light is treated on the screen so as to stiff the coating.
The used screen can be reused by further treatment. The rotary screen is made up nickel.
3.7 FINISHING
There are 2 types of finishing
Mechanical and chemical
The process of finishing is same as Dyeing.
3.8.1.Pigment process
Printing
Finishing
FLOWCHART
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Printing
Steaming(102C for 5 minutes)
Curing (150C for 5 minutes)
Printing(130C -
Steaming(102C)
Washing (soap)
Finishing
FLOWCHART 3.4
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After the fabric has gone through all the processes involved with printing, it is shipped back
to its original plant i.e. wider width, narrow width or knits. Over there the fabric then
undergoes the required finishing processes and is then inspected, packed and shipped to the
buyer.
Part-IV
Terry Towel
5.1 TERRY TOWEL
Altogether 48 machines are there. 36 dobby and 12 jacquard.
The width of fabric produced on these machines is between 110 and 11 inches.
Maximum healds can be on the machines are 15.
The batches of towels produced are in terms of weight.
10-13 tons of towels are produced daily.
Fabric type: 100% cotton, Polyester-cotton blend, loops of cotton and polyester underneath.
The Terry towel has the following process sections:
Grey room
Warping
Sizing
Loom-shed
Weaving
Bleaching
Batching and Dyeing
Drying
Finishing- Stenter
Shearing
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Length Cutting
Finish Folding
5.1.2 Drying
Using hydro extraction process, excess water is removed from the fabric rope. Hydro
extractor is based on centrifuging principle. The fabric rope is loaded into the hydro extractor
and centrifuged at an rpm of 350 450 (according to fabric quality). Each chamber has 2
fans. The fabric in the heating chamber moves in front and then goes back.
5.1.3 Finishing
Finishing in the terry towel is done mechanically by the Stenter Technique. Skewing and
bowing defect is removed through this process. The Stenter is of MonofortsMontex.
5.1.3.1 Shearing
The piles of the fabric are sheared using the shearing machines. There are 2 machines at Alok
Ind. both of them are of Lafer.
After that the towels are cut according to their length and width on the length cutting
machines.
5.1.3.2 Stitching and Final Folding
The edges of the towel is stitched either on the Montimac chain stitch machine or on SNLS
Juki machines and further folded.
TQM Supervision
Poly packing
Carton Packing
Final AQL Testing
Documentation & dispatch
5.1.5 INSPECTION
Visual inspection is done for the checking of
fabric defects.
4 point system of inspection is followed at Alok
Industries with acceptance defect of 25. The
acceptance defect can change according to the
buyers demand.
The inspection is done on the inspection
machine. There are 30 inspection machines.
5.1.6 PACKAGING
The packaging of the rolled fabric goods is done on the packaging using HDP and LDP.
There are 3 machine for packaging. Two of Testa and 1 of Penguin.
Part-V
Knits processing unit
6.1 KNITS PROCESSING
6.1.1 KNITTING PROCESS
1. GREY ROOM
2. PRE TREATMENT AND DYEING
3. FINISHING
4. TESTING
5. PACKAGING
6.1.1.1 Grey Room
The knitted fabric in the raw form are received in this department. The small rolled fabrics
are being brought in from the Silvassa Plant.
It might be in open width form or in tubular form. It depends on the costumer on which form
he wants. No inspection is done in the Grieg room.
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Scouring
Bleaching
Dyeing
FLOWCHART
Scouring and bleaching are done together. Caustic, peroxide, wetting agent and lubricant are
the chemicals used for processing these process.
All these process happens in 1 machine only.
6.1.1.3 Time and water consumption of the process
Shade Time Water Consumption
White shade 3 hrs20 litres/kg
Light shade 6 hrs25 40 litres/kg
Middle shade 7.5 hrs50 litres/kg
High shade 9 hrs60 litres/kg
At Alok Industries SCLAVOS ATHENA machines are used.
There are total 15 winch dyeing machines in knitting floor.
250 kg 2 machines
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110 kg 2 machines
50 kg 2 machines
2 tube 5 machines
3 tube 5 machines
Total production rate 24 - 25 ton/day
6.1.2 FINISHING
Finishing machine
SANTEX SANTA STRETCH
6.1.2.1 Tubular
Process
Stretching
Water Squeeze
Tubular drier
Ironing
FLOWCHART 5.2
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6.1.4 Packaging:
The packaging of the rolled fabric goods is done on the packaging using HDP and LDP.
There are altogether 4 packaging machines. Two are of Testa and the other 2 is of Penguin.
Part-VI
Color Kitchen
Automatic color kitchen (Color Service) is a new technology that is based on a
high level of automation.
here are numerous advantages of this color kitchen over the manual one and
mainly includes the labor reduction, less spillage of chemicals thereby less
wastage of chemicals and hence better than manual color kitchen. This color
kitchen has been divided into various units which work together or
independently and supply chemicals and dyes to the various ranges like the
CPB, CDR, Stenteretc present in the wider width department. The main
function of the color kitchen includes supplying prepared color solution and
chemicals (either raw or prepared) to the various dyeing and finishing
machines in the department.
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So the dye solution made is then transferred to the color preparation tank and from there it is
transferred to the required machine.
Whole automatic color kitchen unit works on PLCs (Programmable Logic Controllers) in
which the recipe is either fed or it is received from the machine and according to which the
operations are carried out and the amount of chemicals and dyes. are weighed and transferred
to the next stage. So the details of all the units are explained in the later part of the report.
SS
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6.2.2.1. STEPS
MANUALLY:
INVOLVED
IN
PREPARATION
OF
COLOR
The sample obtained from the customer is checked in the laboratory and the recipe
involving the constituent colors is made.
Initially the dyeing is done in laboratory in the ROTA dyer and then the shade is
matched with the sample given by the buyer. If its accepted it is sent for bulk dyeing.
Next step involves the bulk color making i.e. for CPB, ratio of color: chemical is
4:1;whereas the CDR and thermo sol dyeing has no particular ratio.
The first step involves dye weighing which is done on a digital weighing machine.
According to the requirement of the recipe the required dyes are weighed.
Next step is dissolving the dye in hot water (in DISSOLVER TANK). Since to make a
single shade, different dyes are used so dissolving them to form a homogeneous
solution is necessary. Much time is required for dissolution of dye.
Then the dye solution made is filtered so as to remove the un-dissolved dye etc.
The filtered dye solution is poured into the MOBILE TANK along with GREEN
ACID (0.1 gpl) which is carried to the required machine. Green acid is used to make
the dye solution acidic.
The dye solution from the mobile tank is transferred to the overhead tanks/service
tanks of specific
7.7 CONCLUSION
So apart from having various advantages of the automatic color kitchen there are a few
shortcomings as well such as the whole color kitchen works on the networking and it may be
possible that the sometimes the network is not working so the whole unit has to be stopped
and production is delayed most of the times.
Moreover there a lot of electronics involved (like the sensors) and if any of the parts is not
working properly therell be a problem and incorrect dosing may be there. In addition to the
above disadvantages there may be chance that the chemical or a dye to make a particular
shade is not available with the color kitchen then it has to be made manually. But apart from
all these shortcomings which can be avoided by regular inspection and maintenance,
automatic color kitchen is an exceptional technology which has reduced labor and most
importantly there is high precision in it.
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Grey fabric
Mercerize machine
Dyeing machine
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CONCLUSION
This industrial training capsule at Alok Industries Limited has been instrumental in upgrading our
skills pertaining to the proceedings of the textile industry. It was a great learning experience. The
project gave us an opportunity to gain the first hand experience regarding the technical know how
of the textile industry and helped us to relate the things learnt by us during the tenure of our
curriculum.
These 4 weeks were indeed a receptacle of tremendous quanta of knowledge. I have experienced
the expertise and knowledge of the trained people of the industry. Time management and
discipline were one of the important aspects which I acquired during my four weeks of internship.
I would also like to once again thank all the contributors who have guided us and have given us
their continuous support.
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