Canadian Jeweller Magazine May 2008

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MAY 2008
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CORPORATE & SALES OFFICES: 421 NORTH BEVERLY DRIVE, SUITE 350 BEVERLY HILLS, CALIFORNIA 90210 U.S.A. | T: (310) 888·8864 F: (310) 858·9155
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ESTABLISHED 1879 MAY 2008 • VOL . 129, NO . 2
Olivier Felicio Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

Leslie Wu Editor-in-Chief | leslie@rivegauchemedia.com
Kathy Toufighi Art Director/Production Manager
Kathryn Hudson Associate Editor
Martha Uniacke Breen Copy Editor
CONTRIBUTORS Nyka Alexander, Jessica Ruby Bent, Vakis Boutsalis,

Sarah B. Hood, Martin Irving, Barbara Kingstone,
Duncan Parker, Andrea Wenckebach
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MARKETPLACE
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Sonia Lowe Assistant to President | sonia@rivegauchemedia.com
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Melanie Seth Accounting and Administration
Bryan Soroka Managing Editor
Samayi Campbell Editorial Assistant
Nikki Yeh Editorial Assistant
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Published by Rive Gauche Media Inc.
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liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part,
without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial con-
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Brokers of Rare Jewels
8 CJ MAY 2008
JM_CanJwllr_FP4-08:Layout 1 3/7/08 4:07 PM Page 1
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010_CJ_May_Contents:Layout 1 4/29/08 9:00 AM Page 10
table of
Contents
May 2008
Departments
18 Editor’s Note 22
22 For the Record
Tag Heuer shows off its Swiss watch museum; Polar Bear
Diamonds partners with a Canadian fashion designer;
Baume & Mercier presents the fresh faces of its campaign.
33 Who’s News
Harry Winston Diamond Corp. secures a new CFO;
the GIA appoints a Canadian to its South African office;
Jewelers Mutual president joins the JVC.
34
38
Market Watch
A focus on gold jewellery.
36 Bench
Learning the ins and outs of working with gold alloys.
38 Estate
CJ looks at the humble beginnings of the North American
jewellery industry: the gold rush.
40 Face Value
How to appraise gold when value and costs are at an
all-time high.
64 What’s On
73 Last Word
ON THE COVER:
Gold necklace by Vianna Joias.
73
10 CJ MAY 2008
LI F E HAS
IT S M OMENT S ...
Met Jim
The end of a 3-month diet Long weekend in New York
Learned to Tango My new Job
... MAK E T HE M
UNF O RG E TTA B L E
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010_CJ_May_Contents:Layout 1 4/29/08 9:01 AM Page 14
table of
Contents
May 2008
Features
44 Gold Double Standard
The gold market moves towards high-end luxury, while smaller
retailers struggle.
48 Worth Its Weight

CJ highlights the biggest gold trends from Italy’s VicenzaOro fair.
50 Head of the Class

Learn to cash in by marketing to grads.
52 Bright Ideas
Discover innovative designs by visiting one of the nationwide
student design shows.
58 Eastern Promises
China entices customers back to gold.
60 Supply and Demand

CJ visits the Israeli Rough Diamonds Conference.
62 Anchors Aweigh
How an Antigua jeweller’s shop
became a tourist destination
for cruise line passengers.
DON’T MISS THE BOAT!

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14 CJ MAY 2008
44
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R EGAL I MPORTS
Protecting your reputation by not compromising standards
The diamond supplier to the reputable buyer
Consumer web link s www.hallmarkofquality.ca

Interactive inventory price list s www.regalimportsltd.com
Advertising graphics and image download s www.regalimportsltd.com
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018_CJ.May_Editors:Layout 1 4/30/08 6:35 PM Page 18
editor’snote
Photo: Tessa Angus
Value
Added
At the dawn of the molecular gastronomy era in cooking, chefs vied with one
another to create the most outlandish dishes: scented air pillows, vegetable
“The whole value of foams and other strange culinary creations. The movement’s forefather, Ferran
the dime is in knowing Adria, however, took a different approach. What, he asked, gives food its value?
Using chemical magic to make dishes like apple caviar, Adria sought to
what to do with it.” determine the qualities that put caviar in high demand. In other words, if the
rarity is removed, does a luxury item such as beluga caviar still have value?
- Ralph Waldo Emerson As gold prices continue to rise with no foreseeable end, a strange dichotomy
arises in terms of intrinsic versus aesthetic value. Gold has traditionally held
an unusual position by being prized for its investment value as well as its
beauty, with prices, determined by weight both in its raw form and as finished
jewellery. There are signs, however, that shifts are occurring in the market.
In this issue, Nyka Alexander reports from China (pg. 58), where some
fashion-forward Asian consumers are buying gold-coloured items rather than
the precious metal itself, prizing the look more than the material. On the
design front, as prices rise, alternative materials, lighter gram weights and
timeless classics come to the forefront in gold jewellery. (See the trend piece on
pg. 48). And when it comes to retail, although our high dollar shields us
somewhat from the high price of gold, Sarah B. Hood reports that retailers are
still being cautious when stocking their inventories, watching for a future price
drop (pg. 44).
Perhaps as we move into a new gold rush, consumer attitudes towards gold
will come to change as well. “It is inappropriate to value gold solely on the
basis of gold content and to simply drop it on a scale to work out a price,”
writes appraiser Duncan Parker in “State of Flux” (pg. 40). After all, value is a
constantly shifting concept, based as much on necessity as desire. As writer
Terry Pratchett points out, the item of value in a goldmine isn’t the gold...it’s
the pickaxe.
Leslie Wu
Editor-in-Chief
18 CJ MAY 2008
Byrex 7/5/07 11:57 AM Page 2
TORONTO
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022.24-26_CJMay 08 FTR:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:02 PM Page 22
fortherecord news |trends |events
2.
1.
3.
A
Moment
in Time 4.
B Y L ESLIE W U
One: Formula One To accompany the opening of its new and forerunners of the brand look of polished black Corian. Nine hori-
winner Lewis Hamilton.
Two: Tag Heuer’s new
headquarters in La Chaux-de-Fonds, down from these displays like benevo- zontal circular displays, serving as “sub-
headquarters in Switzerland, Tag Heuer flew 140 lent deities, complete with their own dials” to the watch face conceit, contain
La Chaux-de-Fonds. journalists from around the world to directional beam of sound for those timepieces based on the nine themes of
Three: Looking back
on the brand’s history. this sleepy town outside of Neuchatel positioned directly below. the collections: Great Inventions, From
Four: The Tag Heuer 360 for the unveiling of Tag Heuer 360, a Further encompassing the brand’s Pocket to Wrist, Modern Times, The
museum was inspired
by watch design. museum dedicated to the 150-year- history, designers placed a 50-metre- Dream of Flight, Legendary Tracks and
old brand. long brushed aluminum band inlaid Races, Famous Partners, The Call of the
Museum designers Eric Carlson with a flush glass around the four Sea, Technology + Function = Design,
(of Paris architectural firm Carbondale) walls. The Tag story is told through 16 and Watches for Women. For viewing
and “dUCKS Scéno”, a specialist in display cases, eight video screens, 51 ease, each rosewood and brushed
scenography and museography, have backlit images and text, as viewers aluminum display is hydraulically
brought three elements of watchmaking move through the space (clockwise, of equipped to lift and lower the islands of
into play in the 200-square-metre space: course). The history of the brand is watches, and 50 large magnifying
the crystal, the timeline and the dial. illuminated through chronographs, lenses of varying sizes are strategically
Punning on the crystal glass element key dates, texts, quotations and illus- placed throughout the surface.
of a watch, designers placed a bevelled trations, as well as period documents, Founding patriarch and honourary
circular video screen around the collector’s items and films. chairman Jack Heuer was on hand, as
circumference of the ceiling, with a In order to display the watches them- was company president and CEO Jean-
panoramic view composed of 12 high selves, the designers turned to the Christophe Babin, who officially opened
performance retro-projectors, synchro- shape of the watch face for inspiration. the museum with 23-year-old Formula
nized into a single moving 360° A carved path leads viewers through a One wunderkind Lewis Hamilton, a
centripetal image. Former ambassadors single, seamless, one-metre-deep floor current Tag brand ambassador.
22 CJ MAY 2008
fortherecord
One: Models wearing Mendonça’s

designs and Tom Kee’s custom
jewellery. Two: Eteri of Russia
in Baume & Mercier’s new ad
campaign. Three: Baume &
1. Mercier’s Diamant watch.
CANADIAN DESIGN DUO

Polar Bear Diamonds has sponsored the New York fashion week debut of Toronto designer Arthur Mendonça, a rising talent since his
first collection in 2003. The show paired Mendonça’s modern metallic looks with custom-designed pieces by Polar Bear creative director
Reuben Tom Kee, who has also designed jewellery for fellow acclaimed Canadian designer Andy Thê-Anh. The signature collection
features Canadian diamonds from Polar Bear’s Northwest Territory mines set in
2.
white, rose and yellow gold.
FRESH FACES
Watchmaker Baume & Mercier has called on
everyday women to represent its Diamant watch
line. An international casting call was held to find
five modern muses who represent the brand’s
touted values of creativity and authenticity.
The winners, Eteri of Russia, Madhura of India,
Esme of Malaysia, Julie of France and Najet of
Germany were brought to Paris for three days.
Primped and photographed by well-known French
photographer Laurence Laborie, the five women
donned Diamant pieces and are now the
international faces of the new campaign.
3.
24 CJ MAY 2008
1. DE BEERS TAPS UPSCALE MARKET

De Beers has opened its first diamond jewellery store in Hong
Kong, within the luxe Landmark shopping mall in the Central
district. The 2,200-square-foot store offers a mix of high-end and
more accessibly priced pieces. All jewellery, watches and loose
stones are displayed in cases that can be approached from all
sides, similar to those used in De Beers’ other new locations. The
store’s location was chosen after a two-year search, reports
WWD.com.“We have been looking to open a store in Hong Kong
for a while, considering what Hong Kong is to the luxury market,
but we waited until we found the right location,” says De Beers
CEO Guy Lemarie. “For us, location is decisive—we would
rather open later and have the right location.” A second store
is slated to open later this year in the same district.
3.
One: Hong Kong has become an international luxury

shopping destination. Two: Norwegian skier
Aksel Lund Svindal is the new face of Longines.
Three: Longines’ 1967 sponsored race in Les Cèdres.
2.
LONGINES IS OFF TO THE RACES

For the second year in a row, after a 10-year absence, Longines is back in the starting gate of the FIS Alpine World Cup, acting as official
timekeeper. Twenty-three races were timed, starting on November 10 in Levi, Finland, and ending on March 16 in Bormio, Italy.
The Swiss watchmaker has also signed a contract with Norwegian skiing champion Aksel Lund Svindal, appointing the 25 year old
downhill world champion as the new Ambassador of Elegance.
The brand’s association with skiing began with the Chamonix in 1933, evolving with its introduction of the first luminous
scoreboard in 1962.
MAY 2008 CJ 25
022.24-26_CJMay 08 FTR:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:42 AM Page 26
fortherecord
1. 2.
One: Johannesburg is the home of the GIA’s newest lab.
Two: GIA director of South Africa Leslie Milner.
GIA OPENS SOUTH AFRICAN OFFICE

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA)
has opened a lab in Johannesburg, South
Africa. The lab now accepts any size dia-
mond, coloured stone or pearl from clients
in the region. “The institute is very excited
to begin participating as fully as we can in the
industry in this region, and will eventually
offer classes, seminars and scholarships,” says
senior vice-president Thomas M. Moses. The
GIA actually began work in South Africa last
summer, when it took over the operation of
a local organization, the Jewelry Council of
South Africa.
DIAMOND SMUGGLER CAUGHT

A stash of uncut diamonds and other rough
gemstones was seized at the Edmonton
International Airport from a central African
man trying to enter the country, according to
the Edmonton Journal.
Border security officers found over 180
carats of rough diamonds, 43 grams of raw
gold and hundred of carats of rough gem-
stones, including ruby, sapphire, garnet and
tourmaline, that the man had tried to con-
ceal in his clothes.
“The single parcel of diamonds has a
tremendous amount of criminality to it,”
Constable Kelly Ross of the RCMP’s K-
Division Diamond Program told the press
in a statement. “In Africa, the stones are
smuggled between countries, and used to
facilitate criminal activity. They are further
smuggled into Canada to be laundered into
the legitimate jewellery business.” The
RCMP and border officials are investigating
the case under the Export and Import of
Rough Diamonds Act and the Customs Act.
IGI GOES MOBILE

The International Gemological Institute has
launched a corporate polished diamond-
grading program in Botswana to support The
Diamond Trading Co. and De Beers' ongoing
efforts in the region.
The IGI has also unveiled its first mobile
laboratory in the Dominican Republic, which
will service the country’s jewellery manufac-
turing plans including those in the free-trade
zones of San Pedro de Macoris and Santo
Domingo. Launched in late February, the lab
has already graded and certified almost 3,000
pieces of jewellery.
26 CJ MAY 2008
The CGTA Gift Show is Bigger and Better than Ever!
MORE TO SEE
MORE TO DO
MORE TO BUY
The CGTA Gift Show takes an evolutionary leap forward, elevating the buying experience to
a higher dimension. Beginning in Fall 2008, the CGTA Gift Show will:
• expand to incorporate the new Toronto Congress Centre north building
• début a series of new, themed product areas, including Life’s Luxuries, which focuses
on what’s new in jewellery and fashion accessories
• launch a myriad of exciting new feature areas, galleries and events
Sunday, August 10 to Thursday, August 14, 2008 • offer an unprecedented range of complimentary training sessions, retail consultations and
other learning opportunities
International Centre • Toronto Congress Centre
Owned and Operated by the Canadian Gift and Tableware Association
• introduce a new series of in-depth retail presentations by an extraordinary lineup of designers,
celebrities and world renowned retail experts
www.cgta.org (800) 611-6100 And that’s just the start! The CGTA Gift Show is not only bigger, but better than ever.
EXTENDED SHOW HOURS: Until 7pm Monday & Tuesday So now, more than ever, it’s the one retail event you simply can’t miss!
This 5-DAY EVENT is Canada's most important gift and home retail buying opportunity – Don't miss it!
fortherecord
ALARM SYSTEM SHUT DOWN However, the FCC regulates cellular providers differently from
Some American jewellers have Canadian organizations, and there are no plans to discontinue
lost their alarm systems after analog service in Canada as of yet.
the Federal Communications
Commission (FCC) ruled that ZALE DOWNSIZES
cellphone companies were Large North American jewellery retailer Zale Corp. will be closing
no longer required to more stores and cutting 20 percent of its headquarters staff in order
provide analog service. to save over $65 million US annually, according to The Canadian
It is estimated that Press.
Analog
nearly one million of the
cell service 20 million alarm systems in GIA DONATES LATEST BOOK
will also be interrupted should the U.S. rely on analog radio The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) has donated a thou-
providers drop the network.
equipment, rather than the sand copies of its latest book, American Cut: the First 100 Years, to
newer digital technology. Mainly wireless systems installed before public libraries across the U.S. Written by the GIA association’s Al
2006 use analog, as well as older cellphones. “Although cell carriers Gilbeston, the volume follows the history of American diamond
are not required to drop their support of the AMPS service, this cutting, outlining how new techniques and inventions shaped the
clearly seems to be the intention of the majority of cellular carriers industry. “Our donation of American Cut to 1,000 libraries makes
at this time,” says David Sexton, vice-president of loss prevention at this book easily accessible to the general public or members of the
Jewelers Mutual Insurance Co. trade, which aligns with our mission to help educate the public
The FCC does expect that the majority of service providers about gemology,” says Dona Dirlam, director of the GIA library
converted their clients’ systems before discontinuing service. and information centre.
Revolution.
INTRODUCI NG T HE NEW
canadianjeweller.com
It’s all about you.
Read current and past issues online.

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Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers’ Guide.
Discuss & debate on our forums.
Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
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022.24-26_CJMay 08 FTR:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:31 AM Page 30
fortherecord
One: Checking credit cards for obvious signs of tampering is the first step to avoid-
ing fraud. Two: The CJA’s disclaimer is intended to protect retailers’ interests.
AVOIDING CREDIT FRAUD Tips for safe credit card sales:

With credit card fraud on the rise, the Jewelers If suspicious of a cardholder, call the credit card authorization
1.
Vigilance Council has put together a centre and ask for a Code 10, which means you have a sketchy
few handy tips for jewellers to situation, then follow the operator’s instructions.
spot counterfeit and altered Check the front of the card: Visa accounts should begin with a “4”,
cards, which can often be MasterCard with a “5” and American Express with a “3”.
tricky to distinguish. After swiping the card through the terminal, check to make sure
First, retailers the account number on the sales receipt matches the number on
should make sure the card.
that the name on the
2.
card matches the customer’s iden- CJA GETS LEGAL
tification. Also, the signature on the back of the The Canadian Jewellers Association (CJA) is work-
card should be compared to the signature on the sales slip ing to design a disclaimer form for retail jewellers.
(also, clearly, both signatures should match the embossed name on the The document is geared to protect retailers
card).While high-tech and sophisticated counterfeits might not be easily from risks like loss during shipping, dam-
spotted by the average shopkeeper, each card should nevertheless be age to gems during setting or repairs for
checked to spot obvious tampering. pieces purchased elsewhere by customers.
Generally, when retailers follow these basic rules, there will likely not Once finalized by lawyers, the form will be dis-
be a charge-back even if the transaction later turns out to be fraudulent. tributed to CJA members.
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We've revamped & expanded our online buyer's guide to include a new range of products. The new Buyer's Guide is a
gateway to the industry, allowing suppliers to showcase their products and retailers to browse them. But that's not all.
Retailers can get free sites using their suppliers' inventory from the Buyer's Guide. Canadian Jeweller, in partnership with
OpenBlue Networks, is offering retailers in store kiosk sites as well as consumer-facing retail sites.
Free For Suppliers
We've eliminated the time and expense involved with putting your inventory online. Now you can add all of your inventory to
our Buyer's Guide site at no charge and you can add as much inventory as you like with no preset limit. If you are a supplier
of jewellery, watches, clocks or giftware you can take advantage of this offer.
We also offer an optional sharing program. Once your inventory is on the Buyer's Guide, you can share it with
retailers on OpenBlue Networks for as little as $6.95 per month.* You can even offer your retailers their own free sites that
contain your inventory.
Solutions for Retailers
If you don't have a site or you would like compliment the site you have with one that you can use as a sales tool, we have
solutions for you. We offer basic/kiosk sites for free** that includes the inventory of up to 4 suppliers; sites with unlimited
suppliers is available by subscription. We offer a wide and growing selection of site styles. Completely custom sites are
available too. Visit www.openbluestores.com and get online in three easy steps.
For more information on retailer & supplier programs, contact OpenBlue Networks at 1-647-722-5676 or via
e-mail to accounts@openbluenetworks.com.
SAMPLE PREMIUM SITES SAMPLE BASIC SITES
*For Pay As You Go suppliers plans, suppliers prepay annually the monthly fee of $6.95 per retailer. **There are no monthly charges for free sites, however a one time $39 set-up fee applies. Domain registration not included.
fortherecord
WENGER’S GOES ONLINE

Swiss Peak Ltd., Canadian distributor of Wenger’s Swiss Military Watches, has joined Open-
Blue network. “The system provides retailers with online website product, offering options
quickly and at minimal cost,” says jewellery sales manager Stefan Woyslaw, explaining that
Diamond bracelet from Birks’ own
the firm hopes to better market its brand using data collected by the system. Destinee collection.
SHINING STARS
Toronto stargazers experienced the glitz of the Oscars when diamond house Kwiat brought Toronto showcase for a collection of jewels
its Red Carpet Tour to Birks’ flagship store this March. The store was selected as the exclusive by the New York-based diamond jewellery
company that has been a red carpet favourite
of actresses like Sharon Stone, Halle Berry
and Charlize Theron.
The featured designs include diamond
dress clips worn by “Atonement” star and
Best Supporting Actress nominee Saoirse
Ronan to the 2008 Academy Awards,
cufflinks worn by “Sweeney Todd” Best
Actor nominee Johnny Depp, cufflinks and
studs worn by “Michael Clayton” Best Actor
nominee George Clooney and the diamond
studs in which Broadway star Kristin
Chenoweth performed “That’s How You
Know” from the musical “Enchanted.”
“This is a rare opportunity to try on
exclusive pieces worn by A-list celebrities
on the red carpet,” says Viviana Diamanti,
general manager of the Birks location.
Before arriving at Birks, the collection was
featured at the Four Seasons Hotel in Bev-
erly Hills as part of an Oscar suite hosted
by Kwiat for the 2008 Academy Awards.
PDAC DRAWS RECORD NUMBERS

The Prospectors and Developers Association
of Canada (PDAC) International Trade Show,
held in March, was attended by an estimated
18,000 visitors in a larger space within the
Metro Toronto Convention Centre.
With nearly 35 percent more exhibiting
companies than last year’s show, over 650
organizations came together to discuss
topics like market outlook, new discoveries,
environmental concerns and more. [CJ]
CLARIFICATION AND CORRECTION

Please note thatVoluntary Code of Conduct for
Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims
referenced in CJ Feb/March authenticates
a member’s claim of Canadian origin of a
diamond through a third party verifiable
audit trail back to the mine it came from. It is
the mandate of the Canadian Diamond Code
Committee (an independent entity) to
administer the Code. Also, The Diamond
Manufacturers Association of Canada has been
a full member of the International Diamond
Manufacturers Association since June 2007.
32 CJ MAY 2008
033.CJ.May_Whosnews:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:37 AM Page 33
who’snews
TORONTO, ONTARIO 2. DALLAS, TEXAS

Alan Mayne has replaced Alice Murphy The votes are in and The American Gem
as chief financial officer for Harry Winston Trade Association’s newly elected board of
Diamond Corporation. Previously holding directors has been announced. Robert
the same position with CHUM Limited, one Bentley was ushered in as vice-president,
of the country’s largest media companies, while Betty Sue King of King’s Ransom will
Mayne also has banking experience in both take on the secretarial role. Benjamin
Canada and the United Kingdom as manag- Hackman, Bill Larson and Gerry Manning
ing director for TD Securities. were also elected as the association’s
directors. Serving three-year terms in their
1. respective positions, the newly appointed
officers join current president Barbara
Lawrence and eleven other board members.
NEW YORK, NEW YORK

The Platinum Guild International, the
marketing arm of the platinum jewellery
industry, has appointed Heather Zachary
Rogoff as manager of public relations.
NEENAH, WISCONSIN With experience at several other high-end
President and CEO of Jewelers Mutual jewellery organizations like Patek Philippe,
Insurance Darin Kath has been elected to Links of London and Mont Blanc, Rogoff
the New York-based Jewelers Vigilance has been in the industry for just over six
Committee’s board of directors. Kath also years. “We already have a great lineup of
serves on the board of the American Gem events and media initiatives for 2008,” says
Society and Jewelers Board of Trade, Rogoff, who is responsible for day-to-day
among others. “The JVC serves the jew- management as well as the development of
ellery industry in upholding the ethics and new programs.
integrity of the industry, values mutually
embraced by Jewelers Mutual,” says Kath of
his recent appointment.
CARLSBAD, CALIFORNIA IRVING, TEXAS

The Gemological Institute of America (GIA) Large jewellery retailer Zale Corporation has
has announced that Montreal native Marie- announced the appointment of two new
Josée Trépanier has taken over as managing directors to its board, Richard Breeden and
director of Southern Africa. She will be James Cotter. “The management team, led by
responsible for managing onsite projects and newly appointed president Neal Goldberg, is
setting up new facilities in the region. With a executing an operating strategy that is
degree in business law from the London focused on financial discipline and the
School of Economics, Trépanier also brings revitalization of the company’s core mall
operational experience to her role at business, which we believe will position this
the GIA, as she was most recently CEO company for improved performance,” says
for Dubai’s Polygon CMCC, where she chairman John Lowe Jr. Breeden hails from
expanded the Institute’s presence into the financial sector, as former CEO of
Mumbai, Hong Kong and China. In fact, it is Breeden Partners and Breeden Capital
this knowledge of the region’s business that Management, which manages more than $1
appealed to the GIA, says president Donna billion in assets and owns over 18 percent of
Baker, who explained in a statement that the the outstanding Zale shares. Cotter was also a
organization will be looking to Trépanier to founding partner of Breeden Capital
expand its African presence. Management, and was previously a senior
partner with the Simpson Thacher & Bartlett 3.
One: Marie-Josée Trépanier. Two: Darin Kath. law firm.
Three: Heather Zachary Rogoff.
M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ 33
034-035.CJ.May_MrkWatch:Layout 1 4/30/08 6:50 PM Page 34
marketwatch
OPENBLUE NETWORKS & CANADIAN JEWELLER
BUSINESS INTELLIGENCE
REPORT
B Y R OBIN G AMBHIR
FOCUS ON GOLD JEWELLERY

In this issue, we look at consumer shopping preferences in the gold jewellery category from February 2007 through
February 2008. In gold jewellery, earrings outpace all other subcategories by a wide margin (see chart). Within that
category, hoops remain strong along with most of the market (which is perhaps to be expected given the revived interest
in 1980s styles). For years, white metal has been extremely strong but in gold earrings we see a lot of yellow and two
tone. This may be the case because earrings have traditionally tended to move according to fashion trends more than
rings. In addition, women will tend to accumulate more earrings in their lifetimes than any other jewellery items, due
to their lower price point.
In rings, we have some two tone rings and a plain band. Surprisingly, there is no white gold at all. But if you ever
thought flexible rings were niche items, look again. The first, third and sixth items are all flexible rings. It is also unusual
that religious crosses beat rings for the number two spot in gold jewellery. But is it really surprising? According to
Statistics Canada data, 77 percent of Canadian identify themselves as Christian while 44 percent of Canadians say that
their religion is very important to them.
Elsewhere, bracelets are balanced between engravable and link-only styles with two tone links predominating.
GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES BY POPULARITY

FEBRUARY 2007-FEBRUARY 2008
Earrings
Religious Jewellery:
Crosses
Rings
Bracelets
Charms
Necklaces
Chains
Pendants
Bangles
34 CJ MAY 2008
034-035.CJ.May_MrkWatch:Layout 1 4/30/08 6:57 PM Page 35
TOP 10 STYLES IN ALL GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES
TOP 10 STYLES IN BRACELETS
TOP 10 STYLES IN EARRINGS
TOP 10 STYLES IN RELIGIOUS JEWELLERY-CROSSES
TOP 10 STYLES IN RINGS
MAY 2008 CJ 35
036-037_CJ AprMay 08 Bench:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:12 PM Page 36
bench
Alloy
Fads come and go. Though metals like platinum and titanium have seen an increase in
popularity lately, gold continues to be the metal of choice for most jewellers, designers and
consumers. Yet while it is incredibly popular and bench jewellers work day in and day out
with goldcasting, fabricating, repairing and setting stones in it, few work with the various
alloys to their fullest advantage. Many goldsmiths (and most customers)
Awareness
choose different gold alloys because they like the colours, but may not
know a lot about the various advantages or disadvantages of each.
The most common gold alloys produce yellow, white, red (or rose
gold) and green gold. There is a myriad of formulas and combinations
of metals that will produce these colours, and any good goldsmithing
The ins and outs of working book will list different metal combinations and percentages of those
metals for those brave enough (or with enough time on their hands) to
with gold alloys. produce them. Indeed, all of these colours, along with matching solders,
are available in various forms from almost any smelter or refiner. However, blue, purple
B Y A NDREA W ENCKEBACH
and black gold (which isn’t actually an alloy at all) are rarely used, and have distinct
disadvantages in terms of working properties. Purple gold, for example, which according
to the World Gold Council is a mixture of gold and aluminum, can really only be used as
Rose gold trio by Isabelle Fa. a type of pseudo-stone to be set in jewellery, as it is too brittle to be worked by any
Photo courtesy of SIC. conventional means.
36 CJ MAY 2008
036-037_CJ AprMay 08 Bench:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:13 PM Page 37
bench
A discussion with Anita Anderson of Imperial Smelting and jewellery, a palladium white gold alloy can easily replace
Refining in Markham, Ontario, reveals some of the nickel-containing alloys. However, you must be careful
problems goldsmiths face when dealing with the various when repairing these items, as most white gold solders also
common alloys. Yellow gold alloys are good for many contain nickel. “I wanted a white gold wedding ring,” says
applications such as casting and setting stones as well as Karen Browning of Whitehorse, Yukon. “The goldsmith
general repairs, and they are the alloys most goldsmiths are suggested a palladium white gold ring instead [of the nickel
familiar with, since they seem to present the least problems. white gold alloy] because I have a reaction to white gold.”
Many goldsmiths have perfected their casting or Browning didn’t have a single problem with wearing the
soldering techniques with yellow alloys, but this sometimes ring until she had to have it sized. After the sizing, the ring
presents a problem when switching to other alloys. White began to give her a rash. The goldsmith realized afterward
gold alloys, for example, need much higher melting that she had sized the ring with a nickel solder and that tiny
temperatures, but many jewellers don’t adjust their casting bit of nickel was affecting her customer’s skin.
techniques. According to Imperial Smelting and Refining, Bayot Heer, designer, goldsmith and winner of several
one of the firm’s 14K yellow gold alloys has a liquidus Spectrum Awards, likes to use green gold alloys because of
temperature of 910°C, while one of its 14K palladium the colour. “Pale green stones do really well with green
white gold alloys has a liquidus temperature of 1094°C— gold,” he explains. While green gold is most often used for
which means both the flask and metal need to be hotter colour alone, green alloys are the most malleable of the
when using white alloys than they are when casting most various gold alloys. Because of this malleability, green gold
yellow golds. White gold alloys also have a different is ideal for bezel-setting delicate stones. “I had to set a
density than yellow, and this has to be adjusted malachite in a brooch,” explains Jackie Dubé, co-owner of
accordingly, both when carving the wax and weighing the Dubé Designs. “It’s soft, like pushing over fine silver. It
metal. Failure to account for these changes often leads to works really well and there’s a lot less chance of damaging
porosity or partial fill problems. a stone when using a soft metal.
Many goldsmiths don’t have the time or equipment to “[However] because green gold is so soft, it’s hard to
perfect their white gold technique. “With white gold, I just clean up,” cautions Dubé. “There were a lot of drag marks
send it out [to a casting house],” says Marc Dubé, co-owner that were hard to get rid of.”
of Dubé Designs in Timmins, Ont. “I just won’t bother Red or rose golds have been popular in Europe as well as
with [casting] it.” In addition, white gold is less pliable than South America over the years, yet there hasn’t been much in
yellow, and this may make it more difficult to use in certain Canada until recently. “We’ve had a lot more orders this year
applications. “[White gold alloys] harden very quickly for rose gold,” says Amanda of Stuller Service Centres of
when making wire and are not as malleable as yellow gold. Toronto. “But, I haven’t heard good things [from our
So I just order wire ready-made,” explains Dubé. Imperial customers] about it,” she continues. “It’s hard to solder and
Smelting and Refining also cautions that some grain used work with.” Heer doesn’t work with red golds often either, as
for casting doesn’t have the ductility to make something he hasn’t found a good red alloy to fabricate with. “It’s a bit
like wire or sheet that needs to be rolled down or drawn. temperamental, but I find red golds do complement certain
The firm recommends contacting its office to obtain stones,” he says. Red gold alloys, like white gold alloys, are
suggestions about using non-standard alloys. quite hard in comparison with green and yellow gold alloys.
The other well-known problem with white gold alloys is They don’t scratch as easily as yellow or green golds and take
the issue of contact dermatitis. It is the nickel in the white a polish quite well; however, higher-carat red alloys, or those
gold alloy that produces a rash when the metal comes in containing only copper and gold, do tend to crack, writes
contact with the skin. Rhodium-plating a customer’s Peter Rowe of the Orchid Forum. Red gold alloys, like white
existing nickel alloy jewellery can help alleviate the gold alloys, have certain properties that mean goldsmiths
problem. “Plating, however, tends to wear off,” says Peter need to spend extra time to get good results.
Noaks of Nortons Jewellers Ltd. in Charlottetown, P.E.I., Whichever alloy is used, goldsmiths need to spend time
and is therefore only a temporary solution. Customers thinking about its application and working properties.
need to be made aware that they will have to have the item Once these things are taken into consideration, most alloys
of jewellery re-plated on a regular basis. For custom-made will work well. [CJ]
MAY 2008 CJ 37
038_039.CJ.May_Estate:Layout 1 4/30/08 6:32 PM Page 38
Golden
The nineteenth century saw many great innova-
tions within the jewellery industry—from improved
machinery to new diamond mining practices and
easier access to raw materials. The most important
event, however, was the discovery of gold in North
America; the series of gold rushes that followed put
Opportunities North America firmly on the map as a manufac-

turer of high-quality jewellery.
Gold had been known to civilization for thou-
sands of years; Egyptian hieroglyphics mentioned
the precious metal as long as five millennia ago. At
first, Africa was the major source of gold throughout the world, and was the birthplace of its
The North American longstanding association with wealth and power, as it was originally used in creating objects for
tribal chiefs in Africa.
jewellery industry’s By the Middle Ages, royal courts throughout Europe began amassing collections of crown
humble beginnings jewels. By the fifteenth century, stories of abundant gold deposits in the Americas, most notably
in the South American Andes, became the chief impetus for expeditions and explorers to the
proved to be more than New World. The industrial revolution of the nineteenth century advanced the practice of
jewellery-making immensely, especially in the relatively young nations of America and Canada,
just a flash in the pan. though most jewellery on the North American market was still imported from Europe.
During this century of major gold rushes, gold miners colonized much of the remaining
B Y J ESSICA RUBY B ENT unsettled parts of America and Canada. The sheer amount of gold released on the markets
allowed jewellery manufacturers in both countries to produce high-quality jewels for less
38 | CJ M A Y 2008
038_039_CJ May 08 Estate:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:15 PM Page 39
estate
cost. The volume of jewellery created in North America of gold being removed from California’s gold region.
and exported around the world sired an industry that Luckily for many gold prospectors, just as the gold rush in
came to dominate the world market. California waned in 1858, reports of another massive gold
It was in White County, Georgia, that the first gold rush deposit emerged. While this strike was also on the west coast,
sparked the imaginations of explorers everywhere. Native this time it was much further north. Much as the gold at
Americans had been panning for gold along the Sutter’s Mill put California on the map, flakes of the precious
Chattahoochee River for centuries when Frank Logan metal found in northern remote areas formed the basis of the
established a gold mine in 1829. Soon, mines were running founding of British Columbia, which the British established to
in the nearby counties of Lumpkin, Union and Cherokee. support the anticipated influx of people and industry that
By 1830, the town of Auraria further north became the would accompany the new discovery. News of the Fraser
main centre of gold production; overall, almost 300 troy Canyon gold rush reached San Francisco, and prospectors fled
ounces of gold were mined per day in North Georgia. In to the Thompson River, site of the precious metal find, by the
1838, the U.S. federal government established a mint in thousands. However, their enthusiasm was soon disappointed:
Dahlonega (north of Auraria); however, within ten years, the Fraser Canyon gold turned out to be insufficient to support
word of an even bigger discovery of gold in California had the 30,000 prospectors who had invaded Victoria (which at the
enticed many of the miners living in North Georgia to head time had a population of a mere 500). By 1860, most of them
across the entire stretch of the United States to the West either returned to America or set out to explore other regions
Coast. The boomtowns of the Georgia gold rush were left of British Columbia for the precious gold.
behind, many vastly reduced in size and importance. While gold was discovered in the Cariboo region of British
The California gold rush began in 1848, in the Coloma Columbia in 1858, news of the discovery did not leak until
Valley at the base of California’s Sierra Mountains. The 1861, when reports of gold were published in many of the
original discovery of gold in California was met with much Continent’s newspapers, and spawned the Cariboo rush. Again,
dismay by the owner of the land on which it was found; John thousands of prospectors moved to the interior of B.C. and
Sutter had set out to create his fortune in lumber mills and settled the region. By 1863, $80 million of gold (in current
agriculture. He tried to contain this discovery, but soon value) had been mined from the Cariboo rush; within two years
word spread, and within a relatively short period, over though, the Cariboo production dwindled to almost nil. Even
300,000 prospectors arrived from all over the continent as so, many of the prospectors settled down in the region and
well as Europe and Australia. The first miners, mostly from created many towns and communities in the interior of B.C.
across America, were known as “forty-niners” for their early Gold was discovered in the Klondike River, close to Dawson
arrival in 1849. The mass immigration of newcomers led to City, Yukon, in 1896, setting off the last great gold rush of the
the establishment of California as a state in 1850, and San century. Within 18 months, 40,000 prospectors arrived in the
Francisco became the most significant boomtown of the Klondike. After many of them faced near-starvation in the
nineteenth century. Originally nothing more than a bitter winter months, regulations were put in place to ensure
shantytown of about a thousand people, within 24 months, adequate food supplies for future winters, and this time, the
it exploded into a city of 25,000. By the summer of 1848, RCMP tightly monitored the gold rush. Despite the harsh
several enterprising businessmen had placed articles in papers climate, Dawson City became the largest city in Canada; at the
and set up gold prospecting companies in anticipation of same time, the population of Vancouver more than doubled
major discoveries. This region of California became known and Edmonton’s population swelled to three times its
as the “Mother Lode”. It was the determination (and previous size. More than a billion dollars of gold was mined
desperation) of the California prospectors that led to many during the Klondike rush, most of it in the ground around the
developments in gold mining that are still used today; for Klondike River, requiring prospectors to dig for the riches. By
example, in order to process more gravel than they could by 1900, gold was found in Alaska, and the prospectors left
simple panning, they began to divert the streams of water to Dawson and its surrounding communities for more fabled
expose the river beds. riches and wild dreams.
By 1853, an estimated 12 million troy ounces of gold Gold rushes, large and small, continued into the
were removed. Although history dates the end of the twentieth century. Machinery became more sophisticated,
Californian gold rush to 1855, innovations in gold mining and instead of prospectors, corporations claimed most of
continued to advance, as the precious metal became more the territories and profits. The true “golden age” was the
arduous to extract. Hydraulic mining commenced in the nineteenth century, when a single man could literally
Coloma Valley in 1853; this means of removal produced an strike it rich. Truly, it was the innovations of these
additional 11 million troy ounces of gold in the next 30 individuals throughout North America that, for nearly a
years. Eventually, dredging for gold at the turn of the century, fostered the most commanding jewellery industry
twentieth century led to a further 20 million troy ounces in the world. [CJ]
M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ | 39
040/042_CJ AprMay 08 Facevalue:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:16 PM Page 40
facevalue
State
of
Flux
Appraising gold means Gold. It conjures images of pirate treasure, sunken Spanish galleons with spilled riches
waiting to be discovered deep in the ocean—or maybe an elderly woman with a few gold
taking shifting values rings in her sock drawer.
But gold is a mainstay of the jewellery industry. Gold is sold to people who want to hedge
and costs into account. their shorts (or something like that); it is a solid and reliable thing in which to invest (so I
am told). Indeed, it seems there is no end to the optimism about gold. We see it in so many
B Y D UNCAN PARKER
situations and contexts, so strangely there many different ways of appraising something
that is so singular.
Pure gold is traded in the open market and is essentially the same price around the
world. When this was written, gold was selling for $908.00 per ounce and the Canadian
dollar was running at par with the U.S. dollar. (I include this figure because we are talking
about gold, and gold and the dollar are both in a constant state of flux.) However, when it
comes to jewellery, there are major cultural differences about the value placed on gold. In
the Eastern world, gold has traditionally been a bullion investment and sold for not much
more than the daily spot gold price. In the Western world, gold jewellery is generally
Shoppers peruse the goods at a 24K
alloyed and sold on the basis of design, style and labour—the gold component may be a
gold store in Bangkok, Thailand. comparatively small part of the total cost.
PAGE 42
...................................
40 | CJ M A Y 2008
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facevalue
PAGE 40
...................................
A simple 18K (“750”, or 75 percent) gold chain
“
will have a higher wholesale price than the
It is inappropriate to retail on a 24-karat chain. Beyond bullion gold

jewellery, when gold content decreases parallel
price decreases, but there are other factors to
value gold solely on the consider. Is there custom design or hand labour
involved in the item, for example?
basis of the gold content A very fine quality, custom-made 18K gold
chain may retail for more than $300 per gram,
but wouldn’t usually be sold on the basis of a
and to simply drop it on per-gram price. We would appraise it based on

a calculation of design, materials, labour and
other factors to arrive at a price.
a scale to work out It is inappropriate to value gold solely on the

basis of the gold content and to simply drop it
on a scale to work out a price.
a price.” Sometimes, however, we might work out the
value of an item based on gold content, labour
and weight, and still get it totally wrong. An
example of the need to keep up with prices is a
In the traditional Chinese jewellery market, gold is sold as Welsh-made wedding ring that we examined recently. The
24-karat (“999” or 999/1000ths) pure. 24-karat gold jewellery inside of the ring was stamped “Aur Cymru”, with an image
is appraised based on the daily price, plus a small amount of the three feathers of the Prince of Wales. This Welsh
for labour. These gold items are sold on a retail per-gram ring was a wedding band in 18K yellow gold, and weighed
price by jewellers around the world. We appraise this gold 15 grams. The ring was sold for $6,000. There is not a
for very specific prices because that is the way it is sold, reasoned way for us to calculate the value of this ring, but
whether you are in Hong Kong, Bangkok or Vancouver. In it was made from Welsh gold, and we priced it based on
the South Asian jewellery market, 22K is standard (“916” or prices from the retailers who sell such items in Wales. All
91.6 percent gold), and this karat of gold is also sold on a wedding rings worn by the British Royal Family are made
bullion basis, plus a little extra for alloying and labour. from Welsh gold, so the price reflects the price charged for
Most gold jewellery in the Western world is made from Welsh gold only. If only Canadian gold could be sold for
what we like to call “karat gold,” which is a term generally such a premium!
used to describe alloys or gold that has been mixed with It can take hundreds of hours to produce some gold
other metals to create something less than pure gold. The jewellery. At wholesale, this can add up to tens of
alloying of gold serves several purposes. First, it makes thousands of dollars in labour for major handmade items.
gold that is more durable than 24-karat. Second, it However, if this same type of item is sold at liquidation
produces gold of different colours. Also of note, alloying level, the labour and design elements are usually lowered
gold produces metal that is less costly than pure gold, as to zero (for break-up).
lower gold content means a lower cost of raw materials. Gold coins and nuggets are generally valued on the basis
The Canadian Precious Metals Marking Act has established of gold bullion value alone with very little extra for
requirements and tolerances for the marking of precious handling. There are few exceptions to this general rule.
metal. Anyone who manufactures, sells or appraises jewellery An appraisal should reflect the price being paid for an
should be familiar with the Act. In Canada, anything in item. Appraisers must update gold pricing and exchange
precious metal that bears a quality mark (“18K” for example) rates on a daily basis. They must remain aware of different
must also, by law, bear a trademark. markets for gold based on the many variables in market,
As the percentage of gold decreases, you would expect karat of gold, geography, design and labour.
the price should decrease. On average it will, but if you Every item of gold jewellery is really an individual’s
price 24-karat gold and compare it to alloy, the alloy will treasure. In order to handle it fairly and correctly as
be more costly, for there are costs to producing alloys that appraisers, we must remain aware of the massive number
are not incorporated into 24-karat gold: labour costs, of variables that can influence the price of jewels of
markups and other factors that are specific to karat gold this metal that has such a “standardized” price around
alloy jewellery. the world. [CJ]
42 | CJ M A Y 2008
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Retailer? Manufacturer? Wholesaler/distributor? … Selling Canadian diamonds?
You should become a Signatory to the Voluntary Code of Conduct for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims (the Code).
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a verifiable audit trail that can track the Canadian diamond you sell back to the Canadian mine from which it came.
As a Code Signatory, we will publicize broadly to both the jewellery industry and consumers that you are a member and that the Canadian diamonds
you sell can be authenticated. The CDCC website is among the top selections when a consumer does a search for Canadian diamonds.
Join other industry members who are enjoying the benefits of being part of a group of Canadian diamond stakeholders committed to ensuring
authenticity in Canadian diamond claims.
TO REGISTER, SIMPLY VISIT THE CODE

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Join the Voluntary Code of Conduct for Authenticating Canadian Diamond Claims
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44 CJ MAY 2008
coverstory
The
Gold
Double
Standard
With gold approaching $1,000 an ounce, the lower-end market
may slow, but opportunities abound at the luxury level.
B Y S ARAH B. H OOD
s gold prices soar to new highs, some jewellery
A
request the less costly confection “every few months.” Previous page: Golden
style at Nicole Romano’s
buyers are holding on to their money or spending And the same consumers are still spending top dollar on New York Fashion Week
it on other materials. But when daily news reports gold jewellery, says Duvall O’Steen of the World Gold Council. show. This page: Cuff and
trumpet the unprecedented market value of the beloved “It’s not only in jewellery; it’s also in handbags, shoes and earrings by Vendorafa.
Photos courtesy of
metal, its appeal only rises among those able to revel in fabrics,” she says. “On Fifth Avenue, Louis Vuitton has big the World Gold Council.
conspicuous consumption. chunky gold bracelets in the window. Your Blackberry can be
Searching for “conspicuous,” one need look no further gold; so can the earphones for your iPod. There are gold-plated
than “Desperate Housewives” star and red-carpet darling cameras and cellphones. It’s also in beverages; there are vodkas,
Eva Longoria, who was seen wearing a solid gold dress champagnes and wines that have real gold flakes in them.”
(albeit a very short one) at New York’s Mercedes Benz
Fashion Week. As for “consumption,” popular Manhattan PRICE WARS
comfort-food eatery Serendipity 3 made Guinness World “I don’t think the jewellery industry should be afraid of a
Records when it created its $1,000 sundae made with high gold price,” says Steve Parker, president of the
caviar, Armagnac and edible gold leaf. Last November, the Courtney Gold Company Ltd. in Vancouver. “In the ’80s
restaurant took the next step and launched a $25,000 when gold was at its height, business was fantastic; people
dessert that contains 28 cocoas infused with flakes of 23- were excited about owning gold, and it rubbed off on the
carat gold. Although it has yet to receive an order for the jewellery industry. Are you more excited about gold when
five-figure treat, the restaurant confirms that customers it’s falling in price or when it’s rising?”
PAGE 46
...................................
MAY 2008 CJ 45
coverstory
PAGE 45
...................................
1. findings and supplies for the repair industry. “Even in

that area I’m finding that people, if they need one
setting, they’ll order one setting, whereas in the
past they’d order half a dozen at least,” he says.
And in retail, “They want just to replace what
One: Floral necklace by Graziella.
Two: Gold suite by DML. Photos
they’ve sold.”
courtesy of the World Gold Council. The pinch has been especially felt by those
whose customers normally include tourists from
the U.S. and elsewhere. “Our sales have dropped big
time,” says John Akcan, president of Solid Gold
Jewellery in Toronto, whose business includes
handling souvenir items like maple-leaf pins.
“I would say it has dropped down 40 to 50
percent,” he says.
As the WGC’s February press release puts it,
“It would appear that an ‘affordability’ mark has
been reached in certain lower-value segments of
the market.” The WGC document Gold Demand Trends
(Full year and Q4 2007) points out that price volatility
puts more of a damper on the market than price
increases. In fact, “a steady and gradual rise in price is
no deterrent to jewellery demand since it enhances the
investment element of purchase.” Furthermore, “not all
And rising of the ‘missed’ buying during periods of price volatility is
they certainly are. When lost, as some returns when prices are more stable.”
Canadian Jeweller’s gold issue While the mid- to low-priced end of the industry is
went to press last year, prices slow, Parker says, “I would encourage retailers to re-price
had already spurted up over $700 their gold inventory for the current price of gold. It’s not a
US before dropping back into the high $600s. As 2008 matter of greed; it’s a matter of making a wise decision. I
opened, the London Gold Fixing showed the price at think we’ll see $1,500 gold before we see $500 gold again,”
around the long-held record high of $850US, but by he adds.
February it was hovering in the range of $900 to $925US.
With the continued unpredictability of the U.S. dollar, no BY DESIGN
one has yet begun to forecast any significant lowering of Meanwhile, with the high gold price and the weak
the gold price. American dollar, designers have started to modify their
Canadian retailers, their customers and their suppliers work to make the most of every gram. “We were at the
have been slightly shielded from the rise in gold prices by VicenzaOro show in Italy, and we noticed that they were
the current high value of the Canadian dollar. However, making a lot of pieces a lot lighter,” says Karolin Tecimer,
importers and manufacturers report that retailers are who handles sales for Tecimer Jeweller in Toronto.
being cautious with regard to their inventory, holding “I think the price of gold is influencing the design quite
small stocks in anticipation of a future drop in prices. a bit,” concurs Parker. “But I’m not seeing smaller pieces at
“Definitely the price has affected our sales negatively,” all; I’m seeing a renewal of electroformed designs, which
says Ted Argyris, vice-president of Arig’or Inc. in enable the piece to be hollow and very light, and more
Montreal, which imports gold jewellery from Italy. “The open designs...circles, loops, big open links.”
strong Canadian dollar has helped, but of course it has not “When you have a higher price of gold, you have to try
compensated for the drastic increase in price. The price of to cut down in other areas,” says O’Steen. Certain classics
gold has tripled in three years; the Canadian dollar has will always be popular, but these days, a classic piece must
gone up by maybe 50 percent.” have a twist. “We the consumer are more inclined to buy
Mel Hedges is a wholesaler and the Canadian something that has a classic look to it. I don’t mean retro,
representative for Australia’s Bee Jewellery; he also carries but something I can wear 25 years from now and it’s not
46 | CJ M A Y 2 0 0 8
coverstory
going to go out of fashion.” An interesting texture 2.

is one way to add interest, she says. “It’s a way to take
a classic piece like a cuff and give it an updated
look.”
“More and more, we’re seeing society being
influenced by fashion—anything they see in
the Oscars or the Grammies,” says Tecimer.
“So anyone that pays a lot of money in
advertising, I think they’re greatly helped by that.
We are seeing a big trend in circles, big chunky
bracelets, long chains, some with texture. Over Christmas
we sold a lot of big, wide bracelets, with the cost for a
retailer anywhere from $1,500 to $3,000, so $3,000 to
$5,000 retail.”
Montreal’s Ex Aurum manufactures, retails and
wholesales mid- to higher-end gold, white gold and
platinum. “Heavy gold jewellery is slowing down because
of the price of gold; that typical Italian jewellery is on a
decline because it’s just metal, and that’s the big part
of the price,” says Ex Aurum owner, jeweller and designer
Gino Priolo. “But if you’re manufacturing here
and you’re doing nice work, I think you’ll continue to
do okay.”
“People want to be bold,” says Tecimer. “They want to
feel that they’re wearing a unique piece. The clients are
still spending the money, but they’re more demanding. I Argyris. “There’s been a large increase in
find that if I have a piece that wasn’t finished nicely or the production of pink gold, and not
wasn’t a nice style, I couldn’t even give it away below cost. only pink gold but pink with white. It’s
If it’s a nice style, price doesn’t seem to be an issue because not a huge mover yet in Canada, but it
it’s a luxury item. They’re not buying it hoping to melt it may be increasing.”
down and resell it; they’re buying it to enjoy it.” There’s also a fashion trend for what O’Steen calls
“meaningful things,” like hearts, crosses and nature
NICHE MARKETS inspirations. “[Designer] Robert Lee Morris talks about
Apart from updated classics, several other niches bear ‘wearing your talismans’; he talks about the spiritual
watching. For instance, bridal traditions have been comfort that comes from that,” she says. “Things that are
changing over the past decade, and may be opening up very meaningful and iconic allow you to wear your
new possibilities. “What’s interesting to me is how women symbols, your self-expression.” She cites the popular
are wearing more than one outfit,” says O’Steen. “I think angels and zodiac symbols from Temple St. Clair and the
the opportunity for the jewellery industry is that it’s not gold “Love Letters” by Mauri Pioppo, as well as “jewellery
just the bridal band. You’re wearing something traditional that gives back,” such as pieces tied in with health or
with the wedding gown, but in your reception wear you environmental causes. “That’s just another way of adding
can really be more fashion-forward, so there’s an value,” says O’Steen. “So there’s a couple of different ways
opportunity to sell more than one suite of jewellery if the to look at it.”
jeweller is savvy enough to ask, ‘What are you wearing for So if the products are exciting enough, at the higher end
your reception?’” of the market, gold jewellery is still desired at any price.
Another niche that seems to be developing is rose gold. “Gold becomes more aspirational when it’s more
“I don’t know if this is emerging or just a passing thing,” expensive, and gold is very much part of the fashion world
says O’Steen. “Rose gold looks really great with white and right now,” O’Steen points out.
yellow; it’s an interesting thing to keep an eye on.” “It’s a very interesting time, because there’s a lot of
“Italy is showing a lot of pink gold as of last year,” says interest in gold right now.” [CJ]
M A Y 2 0 0 8 CJ | 47
048-049.CJ AprMay 08 Trends:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:21 PM Page 48
Worth
Its Weight
World Gold Council expert Duvall O’Steen takes a look at
heavy-hitting gold trends from VicenzaOro.
B Y K ATHRYN H UDSON
With the price of gold being as high as it is today, it’s important for retailers to make the right investment when it comes to gold purchasing.
Here are the top gold trends of 2008:
INSPIRED DESIGN
The higher price of gold is inspiring creativity among designers as alternative materials like
ceramic, wood and resin become more popular. These fashionable additions lighten the
gram weight of the gold while contributing to fun and funky designs.
CLASSICAL CREATIONS
“When prices rise, consumers flock to the classics,” says O’Steen, explaining
1.
that timeless pieces are considered a more sensible investment. New takes
on gold classics took centre stage at Vicenza: link chains in fashion-
2. forward shapes, textured cuff bracelets and iconic pieces
like hearts, crosses or flowers. These are classics, taken to the
next level!
TECHNICOLOR DREAMS
Colour and texture were also major players
at Vicenza. New technologies help cre-
ate different finishes that make for
added visual interest, as well as innova-
tive colours of gold. Colour also
showed up in the form of ceramic and
One: Necklace by enamel mixed with gold in fun new
Carniani. Two: Link chain
by Aretina Arte. Three: ways, as well as modern takes on tri-
Bracelet by Dall’Avo. colour pieces—infinitely wearable with
Four: Pendant by Giordana
Castellan. Five: Charms and today’s feminine fashions.
bracelet by Maria De Toni.
All photos courtesy of The
World Gold Council.
48 | CJ M A Y 2008
048-049.CJ AprMay 08 Trends:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:21 PM Page 49
Trends to watch for:

classic design, open-work,
texture, mixed materials
TRIBAL RITES
Ethnic and tribal-inspired influences were also prominent in gold jewellery at
the show. Coloured enamel designs help evoke ever-popular animal
prints and safari looks. “These should fit perfectly with the khaki
neutrals and animal prints in spring fashions,” says O’Steen.
GIVE ME MORE
4. Added value is also a key trend as designers attempt
to entice consumers by offering add-on pieces. A
pendant, for example, can be worn in multiple
ways when resin or mother-of-pearl
accessories are included. “It feels like
getting five or six pieces of jewellery in one
5.
purchase,” says O’Steen. Now that’s offering
more bang for the proverbial buck! [CJ]
LOVE AT
FIRST SIGHT
Vicenza’s First show, a new division dedicated to fresh styles, also
presented some of the most desirable trends for Italian gold jewellery.
When it comes to gold styles, many designers look no further than crystal embellished pieces were also embraced by Italian designers.
Italy’s stylish shores. Taking note of the burgeoning Mediterranean
trends will put Canadian retailers a step ahead of the game. WHITEWASH
Pale agates set off long shapely gold necklaces, while white coral
SWEET CHOCOLATE on rings and earrings took on playful shapes like flowers,
Multiple strands of chocolate-coloured pearls blend with white butterflies or stars.
pearls and yellow gold to create unique chokers, bundled bracelets
and earrings that were hot enough to warm the winter weather. CAMEO APPEARANCE
Classic pieces are regaining ground, albeit with a modern twist.
REGAL STYLE Cameos are now cropping up with timeless silhouettes engraved on
Enhancing a hairstyle with a shimmering gold hairband or demure backgrounds of black onyx, green and black agate rather than on
tiara is increasingly envogue. Simple gold ribbons or satin-finished and the classic seashell. [CJ]
M A Y 2 0 0 7 CJ | 49
050-051.CJ AprMay 08 Graduation:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:22 PM Page 50
Head
of
the Class
Targeting recent grads ach year, several hundred thousand students across Canada graduate from high
will give your sales top

marks.
E school or a post-secondary program. This annual celebration presents a prime
opportunity for Canadian jewellery retailers, who can market their stock products as
graduation gifts.
“I think people are looking for something that will last a long time, a keepsake,” says
Swarovski corporate communications manager Florence Tang, adding that jewellery is a great
B Y VAKIS B OUTSALIS way for students to mark their special day.
Statistics Canada reports that over 400,000 students celebrate some form of graduation
annually. In spite of this incentive, some Canadian retailers fail to capitalize on this very
saleable occasion.
This lack of enthusiasm is puzzling to Wes Dickinson of Cadman Manufacturing, which
makes graduation rings and sells them directly to retailers. “There is no real reason why a
retailer should not want to promote graduation gifts,” says Dickinson. As Dickinson sees it,
selling graduation rings and other keepsakes draws in young consumers—which can go a long
way in helping retailers establish new clientele.
It is a sentiment that is echoed by Mike Guinan-Browne, president of Falcon Inc., an
importer and distributor of jewellery in Canada. “If a young person can relate to the store,
then they are going to go back in the future,” he says. “Retailers should be trying to appeal to
a young demographic by offering products that that demographic is going to like—instead
50 CJ MAY 2008
050-051.CJ AprMay 08 Graduation:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:22 PM Page 51
1.
of trying to sell to the same old customers day after day after it’s for something special in your life.” For girls, daCosta Previous page: Swarovski
day.” Tang agrees, saying, “Our customer has actually recommends a good string of pearls. “Then we can dress it up Mirage headphones.
One: Pearls by Rambaud.
become younger, which appeals to the jewellery side of our or down with add-ons—something like a pendant.” Two: Swarovski Lock Out
business. We certainly would want to tap into [the Some young customers may be looking towards the future, USB key.
graduation gift] market.” though, rather than traditional pieces. Swarovski and Philips
Graduation is the perfect opportunity to begin making have tapped into a relatively new market with the introduction
inroads with a younger demographic. “It is big business,” of Active Crystals, crystal-adorned headphones and USB
he says. memory sticks, targeting consumers looking for fun and
Sometimes, a lower price point can be key to drawing in functional jewellery to incorporate into their lifestyle. “The
customers. Simply put, retailers who do not offer affordable response has been phenomenal,” says Tang. And the timing is
pieces chance losing out on the graduation crowd. “A right for companies to capitalize on graduation season, she
hundred to $200, maybe $300—that is where people are explains. Plans to build on the strong response are underway, 2.
going to be looking to spend money on a present,” says with four new designs ready to launch this month.
Guinan-Browne. Whatever you suggest as a coming-of-age gift, it is
What can retailers offer, beyond the traditional graduation important to take advantage of the opportunities
ring? Michael daCosta, designer and owner of Fortunes Fine presented by a graduating class.
Jewellers in Toronto, suggests choosing gifts that embody the “Retailers are always saying they want to grow
notion of coming of age. “Cufflinks are a good idea for a boy,” their customer base,” says Guinan-Browne.
he says. “It’s a classic gift…When you put them on, you know “Graduation is the perfect opportunity.” [CJ]
MAY 2008 CJ 51
052-055_CJ AprMay 08 Education:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:25 PM Page 52
Bright
Ideas
The jewellery designers of tomorrow
show off their innovative concepts at
student exhibitions across Canada.
B Y S ARAH B. H OOD rom independent artisans to staff designers for major companies, Canada’s jewellery
F schools are turning out a wide range of graduates. For a savvy retailer, it’s well worth
the effort to browse through the spring explosion of student exhibitions, and cherry-
pick through the works of some home-grown talent before they become well known.
NORTHERN CANADA
You might think it’s difficult to keep tabs on students who attend Iqaluit’s Nunavut Arctic
College, but the college makes it easy by moving its annual graduation showcase to
locations from Vancouver’s Spirit Wrestler Gallery to Fredericton’s Bejewel. This year’s
edition takes place over the summer at Iqaluit’s Nunatta Sunakkutaangit Museum, but
“We’re looking at a venue in Switzerland next year,” says senior instructor Adrienne
Stanton. “There’s a lot of interest in the Arctic, and that’s only increasing with
environmental concern.”
52 CJ MAY 2008
052-055_CJ AprMay 08 Education:Layout 1 4/29/08 5:25 PM Page 53
arts discipline; last year’s winner in the Material Arts and

Design area was jeweller Margaret Lim, who won for art
pieces that combined metalwork and photography. George
Brown College also presents an annual Jewellery Arts
graduate exhibition and sale; this year’s edition, titled
“Rouge”, runs April 10 to May 4 at Bounty, the craft shop
at Harbourfront Centre, with a free reception and awards
ceremony on April 17. Students also participate in the
juried Zilberschmuck. “We had award winners last year,”
says co-ordinator Martha Glenny. Fleming College’s
Haliburton School of the Arts holds student shows in
The college April and December, with jewellery students
was also repre- profiled in the spring edition. Barrie’s
sented at Toronto’s Georgian College also hosts an April
2008 One of a Kind Show this March, event; this year’s graduate show opens on
which for the second year showcased work campus on April 25 and runs for about
by students from craft schools across two weeks.
Canada. Also taking part: Toronto’s Ontario
College of Arts and Design and George Brown QUEBEC
College; Barrie’s Georgian College; Kootenay School École de joaillerie de Montréal has an annual show
of the Arts in Nelson, B.C.; Haliburton School of the in the school’s own galleries for part-time students at
Arts; and Quebec City’s École de joaillerie de Québec. the end of April, as well as a show in June for the full-
“They had a great response,” says Georgian College co- timers. The autumn exhibit of graduates’ work is held in a
ordinator Greg Merrall, who attended both years. He adds prestigious off-campus location; this year’s venue had not
that people in the industry often forget just how small yet been chosen at time of writing. The École de joaillerie
college budgets can be. “It’s our largest capital outlay of de Québec in Quebec City also goes off-campus for its
the year to put this together, but we couldn’t do this if the graduate show, held in late May or early June. This year, it
booth wasn’t generously donated to us.” goes to Quebec’s brand-new Maison de la Musique.
WESTERN CANADA EAST COAST

Unfortunately, Vancouver’s One of a Kind does not yet New Brunswick College of Craft & Design normally holds
include craft schools. However, Nelson’s Kootenay School its student exhibition at Old Government House, the
of the Arts holds a year-end sale on campus in early April home of Lt.-Gov. Herménégilde Chiasson. “It has two
along with a spring graduate exhibit. This year, it runs galleries, and every year [Lt.-Gov. Chiasson] gives us an
April 26 to June 22 at Touchstones Gallery in Nelson. amazing opening,” says Brigitte Clavette, studio head of
Calgary’s Alberta College of Art and Design holds two Jewellery/Metal Arts. This year’s free public reception is
annual events: Metalmorphosis and The Gem Event. This May 21 and the show runs for about a month. Students
spring, Metalmorphosis includes a display of student work also participate in the Atlantic Trade Show (ATS) in
at the college. On the other hand, The Gem Event is a Halifax on the first weekend in February. “Our school gets
unique competition and party. Students produce original a booth where the third-years get feedback from the
work on a specified theme, and the top three submissions wholesale purchasers,” says Clavette. “We’ll be doing a
may choose $100, $200 or $300 worth of gems from the fourth-year program that’s more entrepreneurial; they
college’s $200,000 collection. (Donations to the gemstone actually get taken back to the ACT show under a booth
collection are welcomed; charitable receipts are provided.) called Chrysalis.” Nova Scotia College of Art & Design
Competition entries “could be a performance or video, but University (NASCAD) in Halifax attends ATS and hosts a
more often than not it’s jewellery,” says Sarabeth Carnat, student Christmas show and sale, usually in November.
head of jewellery and metals. “We have felt for some years This year, Seeds Gallery is hosting a show and sale of work
that it’s the best work the students do.” by NASCAD students, alumni and staff. There will also be
an April exhibit of senior student work at a local gallery.
ONTARIO To find out more about these events (or others not listed
In Toronto, OCAD’s annual Graduate Exhibition in May here), check the website of your local craft school; it’s an
attracts some 20,000 visitors. Medals are awarded in each easy way to get a taste of tomorrow today. [CJ]
MAY 2008 CJ 53
052-055.CJ.May_Education:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:46 AM Page 54
D I R E C T O RY O F
CANADIAN JEWELLERY EDUCATION

PRO GRAMS
ALBERTA COLLEGE OF ART AND DESIGN: d’art-joaillerie DEC (Jewellery techniques diploma, three
1407-14th Ave NW, Calgary, AB T2N 4R3. T: (403) 284-7600, years), Le perfectionnement des artisans (professional
F: (403) 289-6682. W: www.acad.ca. Programs: BFA, Major development, fall or spring sessions), Cours d’initiation à la
in Jewellery & Metals (four years). Contact: Sarabeth Carnat, joaillerie (general interest, 6-15 hours). Contact: Micheline
head, Jewellery & Metals, T: (403) 338-5537. Boucher, director, T: (418) 648-8003, E: mboucher@
ecoledejoaillerie.ca.
AURORA COLLEGE, YELLOWKNIFE CAMPUS:
Bag 9700, 5004, 54th St, Yellowknife, NT X1A 2R3. T: (867) FLEMING COLLEGE’S HALIBURTON
920-3030, (866) 291-4866. W: www.auroracollege.nt.ca. SCHOOL OF THE ARTS:
Program: Diamond Cutting & Polishing (22 weeks). Box 839, 297 College Dr, Haliburton, ON K0M 1S0.
Contact: Mike Botha, senior instructor, T: (867) 873-7585, T: (705) 457-1680, (866) 353-6464. W: www.haliburton-
(866) 266-4966. schoolofthearts.ca. Program: Jewellery Essentials (14 weeks
intensive) and some one-week summer program courses.
CANADIAN GEMMOLOGICAL ASSOCIATION: Contact: Susan Little, co-ordinator, T: (705) 457-1680 ext.6721.
1767 Avenue Rd, Toronto, ON, M5M 3Y8. T: (416) 785-
0962, (877) 244-3090, F: (416) 785-9043. W: www. GEORGE BROWN COLLEGE-
canadiangemmological.com. Programs: Diploma in JEWELLERY ARTS & GEMMOLOGY:
Gemmology (four months full-time, two years part-time) PO Box 1015, Station B, Toronto, ON M5T 2T9. T: (416)
plus advanced courses, general interest courses. 415-2000, (800) 265-2002. W: www.georgebrown.ca.
Programs: Gemmology (one year), Jewellery Arts (three
CANADIAN INSTITUTE OF GEMMOLOGY- years), Jewellery Essentials (one-year), Jewellery Methods
PACIFIC SCHOOL OF JEWELLERY ARTS: (two years). Contact: Martha Glenny, co-ordinator, T: (416)
Box 57010, Vancouver, BC V5K 5G6. T: (604) 530-8569. W: 415-5000 ext.6105, E: mglenny@georgebrown.ca.
www.cigem.ca. Programs: Accredited Gemmologist (CIG)
Diploma (one- or two-year programs), Diamond Expert GEORGIAN COLLEGE-SCHOOL
(CIG) certificate, Fine Jewellery Expert (CIG). Contact: J. OF DESIGN & VISUAL ARTS:
Wolf Kuehn, director of education, T: (604) 530-8569, E: One Georgian Dr, Barrie, ON L4M 3X9. T: (705) 728-1968,
webmaster@cigem.ca. F: (705) 722-1531. E: www.jewelleryschool.ca. Programs:
Jewellery & Metals (two-year diploma), Goldsmithing &
ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE MONTRÉAL: Silversmithing (one-year postgraduate). Contact: Greg
416 de Maisonneuve Blvd W, 9th fl, Montreal, QC H3A 1L2. Merrall, co-ordinator, T: (705) 728-1968 ext.1287.
T: (514) 281-9922, (877) 281-9922, F: (514) 281-9933. W:
www.ecoledejoaillerie.com. Programs: Diplome des Études KOOTENAY SCHOOL OF
Collégiales/DEC (three years, offered through CÉGEP de THE ARTS AT SELKIRK COLLEGE:
Vieux-Montréal), Introductory Jewellery Techniques (420 606 Victoria St, Nelson, BC V1L 4K9. T: (250) 352-2821,
hours: 7 levels of 60 hours each), plus advanced courses, (877) 552-2821, F: (250) 352-1625. W: www.selkirk.ca/ksa.
general interest courses. Contact: Carole Plante, director, T: Programs: Jewellery & Small Object Design (two-year
(514) 281-9922 ext.202, E: ecolejoail.mtl@qc.aira.com. diploma), Metal (one-year certificate). Contact: Laura
White, chair, T: (250) 352-2821, E: lwhite@selkirk.ca.
ÉCOLE DE JOAILLERIE DE QUÉBEC:
299 3rd Ave, Ste 304, Quebec, QC G1L 2V7. T: (418) NEW BRUNSWICK COLLEGE OF
648-8003, (877) 648-8003, F: (418) 648-6235. W: www. CRAFT & DESIGN:
ecoledejoaillerie.ca. Programs: Techniques de Métiers 457 Queen St, Box 6000, Fredericton, NB E3B 5H1. T: (506)
54 CJ MAY 2008
052-055.CJ.May_Education:Layout 1 5/2/08 9:51 AM Page 55
453-2305, F: (506) 457-7352. W: www.nbccd.ca. Programs:

Diploma in Fine Craft, specialty in Jewellery/Metal Arts
(two years, taken after a one-year general program).
Contact: Michael Maynard, principal, T: (506) 453-2305, E:
michael.maynard@gnb.ca.
NOVA SCOTIA COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN

UNIVERSITY-CRAFT DIVISION:
5163 Duke St, Halifax, NS B3J 3J6. T: (902) 444-9600, F:
(902) 425-2420. W: www.nscad.ns.ca. Programs: BFA, Major
in Jewellery Design & Metalsmithing (four years). Contact:
Heather Harris, academic secretary, T: (902) 494-8154, E:
hharris@nscad.ca.
NUNAVUT ARCTIC COLLEGE:

PO Box 600, Iqaluit, NU X0A 0H0. T: (867) 979-7267, F:
(867) 857-8619. W: www.nac.nu.ca. Programs: Jewellery &
Metalwork (two years). Contact: Adrienne Stanton, senior
instructor, T: (867) 979-7267, E: astanton@nac.nu.ca.
ONTARIO COLLEGE OF ART & DESIGN-

MATERIAL ART & DESIGN:
100 McCaul St, Toronto, ON, M5T 1W1. T: (416) 977-6000,
F: (416) 977-6006. W: www.ocad.ca. Program: BDes, Major
in Jewellery/Metalsmithing (four years). Contact: Ken
Vickerson, acting chair, Material Arts and Design, T: (416)
977-6000 ext.258, E: kvickerson@faculty.ocad.ca.
VANCOUVER COMMUNITY COLLEGE:

250 W Pender St, Vancouver, BC V6B 1S9. T: (604) 443-8300,
F: (604) 443-8588. W: www.vcc.ca. Programs: Jewellery Art
and Design (two years), Canadian Gemmological Association
Diploma (two years, part-time), Gemmology Certification
Program (two years, part-time), Graduate Sales Associate
Certification from the Jewellers Education Foundation of
the American Gem Society (12 hours), Jewellery electives.
Contact: Donna Hawrelko, program coordinator, T: (604)
443-8670.
Do you have an educational facility for jewellery in Canada

that’s not listed here? Send an email to leslie@style.ca for
inclusion in our annual guide.
MAY 2008 CJ 55
056-057.CJ.May_ExEntryForm:Layout 1 5/1/08 9:32 AM Page 56
E XCELLENCE iN
design
2008 Categories
1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS
Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.
Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.
2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS
Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification
attesting to each diamond’s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not be
Canadian.
3. PEARLS
The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other
gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones.
4. PLATINUM
The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75 percent
platinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used.
5. COLOURED GEMSTONES
These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design
element, will be judged on creativity.
Winners of the 2007 Excellence in Design Awards,

Ring by Andrew Costen, Costen Catbalue Goldsmiths
and Design. Earrings by Julie Buchareff, JJ Buckar.
Ring by Alfredo Alvarez, Aurum Design. Pendant by
Varouj Tabakian, Jewellery by Varouj. Ring by Michael
DaCosta, Fortune Fine Jewellers. All photos by Ron Katz.
56 CJ MAY 2008
056-057.CJ.May_ExEntryForm:Layout 1 5/1/08 9:32 AM Page 57
ENTRY FORM
DESIGNER ’ S NAME
COMPANY OR STUDENT AFFILIATION
ADDRESS CITY
PROVINCE POSTAL CODE
PHONE FAX
EMAIL ADDRESS
CATEGORY
TYPE OF JEWELLERY VALUE OF DESIGN ( SPECIFY RETAIL OR MATERIALS )
Describe the piece, including metal used and karat value, gemstone types, weights, cuts and colour. (Complex designs should be accompanied
by technical details.)
ENCLOSED IS : MY FINISHED PIECE ( S ) OF JEWELLERY.

AN ENTRY FEE OF $25 ( CHEQUE CAN BE MADE PAYABLE TO STYLE COMMUNICATIONS INC .)
I understand the entry rules and regulations and I abide by those terms.
SIGNATURE
SEND ENTRY FORM TO: Excellence in Design, Rive Gauche Media, 60 Bloor Street West - 1106, Toronto, ON M4W 3B8.
RULES, REGULATIONS AND INFORMATION

• Jewellery must have been designed and made in own policy to cover your piece or pieces for loss, • Entries will be returned by a courier at the expense of
Canada. theft or damage for the duration of the competition. the designer. To arrange for the return, please contact
• Jewellery must incorporate precious metals and must • In each category, three finalists will be selected. Melissa Badr (416) 203-7900, ext. 0, during the week
adhere to the criteria set out in each category. Judges will then choose an overall winner in of August 6, 2008, and no later than August 17, 2008.
• All gemstones must be natural. Synthetics are each category. • Winning entries and all information provided about
not permitted. Students may substitute CZ for • To enter, submit finished jewellery, an entry form and the entries may be used for promotional purposes.
diamonds. a $25 fee for each package. Slides, renderings and other reproductions of the
• One submission per designer, per category. • Entry deadline is June 29, 2008, 5 p.m. designs, as well as press releases, will also be used
• Contestant assumes all liability for designs and • Finalists will be displayed and the winners for this purpose.
jewellery submitted. Although we will take reasonable announced at JCK Toronto, August 10-12, 2008. Entries will be judged on the basis of originality, creativity,
precautions while the jewellery is in our possession, Non-winning entries will be returned the week of beauty, wearability and quality of workmanship.
Canadian Jeweller cannot be responsible for August 20, 2008. Winning entries will be returned the Consideration will also be given to marketability.
insuring the jewellery. We suggest you extend your week of August 27, 2008.
MAY 2008 CJ 57
058-059.CJ.May_Asia:Layout 1 5/1/08 10:02 AM Page 58
Eastern O n a recent Sunday afternoon in Beijing, Chinese

gold retail superstore Cai Bai was clogged with
shoppers. In a scene that looked more like a sale
than a typical retail day, hundreds of shoppers not only
browsed but also purchased—in fact, they purchased a
Promises lot. In the first 40 days of the year, the gold megastore sold
over RMB1 billion ($139 million Cdn) of jewellery, which
is almost equivalent to half of last year’s sales—despite
the historic high price of gold. This interest in gold is not
unique to this one shop, however. Last year, China
In China, a new, more youthful overtook the United States as the world’s second-largest
gold market by volume, behind India.
customer is attracted to gold’s lustre. These numbers might indicate an easy market for
Chinese gold retailers, but a closer look reveals some of
B Y N YKA A LEXANDER the same challenges Canadian jewellers face: gold may be losing its lustre for younger
consumers. Two fashionably dressed sisters shopping at Cai Bai agreed that gold, especially
yellow gold, was not particularly appealing to them or their friends (although the older
sister, who was in her mid-twenties, did pick out a gold bracelet for herself). In a nutshell,
the girls brought to light what is tempting the young consumer away from gold:
fashionable clothes, white-toned jewellery, designer handbags and MP3 players are the
preferred accoutrements of the youthful consumer.
The potential generational shift is worrying to those in the business of selling gold. Mark
Pool is marketing manager at AngloGold Ashanti, a South Africa-based gold mining
58 CJ MAY 2008
058-059.CJ.May_Asia:Layout 1 5/1/08 10:03 AM Page 59
company that spends more than any other miner on

marketing gold directly to consumers. With about two-
thirds of gold consumption going to jewellery, this end
user is vital to the industry. “We feel gold is losing touch
with discretionary spending,” says Pool. “Consumers want
to spend on iPods, diamonds, handbags, and exotic
holidays…The East follows the fashion leaders from the
West. If we lose a generation or two of Western consumers
from gold, it could be bad. It could be going that way,
though we don’t know for sure.”
It seems ironic to be worrying about this young
generation of consumers when the sales figures continue
to grow year after year, but a key question is why the
Chinese consumer turns to gold. Traditionally in China,
gold jewellery is bought as an investment. Stores sell what
consumers want: 24K, 99 percent pure gold, which is sold
by weight, with a small labour charge added. With margins
of only four or five percent, there is little incentive for
retailers to spend much on design innovation; sales of
jade, diamonds or gold set with other stones are much
more appealing. From their side, most customers are not
looking for design innovation either.
Mandy Zong, features editor at Harper’s Bazaar China, sees
the market divided into two types of customers. “One kind
buys gold because she thinks it has value that will not
depreciate over time.These are the ones who buy 24K gold
pieces,” she says. In Zong’s opinion, this type of consumer is 1. 2.
interested in the perceived value of the gold itself rather than
design. “Most of the jewellery looks horrible. You could really
just wear a gold brick on your neck.” The other type of
shopper, according to Zong, is the fashion forward consumer was more suitable for young people, not heavy like the stuff Previous page: Cai Bai
jewellery store in Beijing.
who will choose gold jewellery for its value as an accessory. that is appealing to my mother or even my grandmother.” One and Two: Winning
Creating more demand for the latter is a priority for The Council was also able to introduce fixed pricing, designs from the Chinese
those in the gold business. Among them is the World Gold familiarizing the retailer and customer with the idea of edition of the AuDITIONS
gold design competition
Council, an international organization funded by major paying a set price for the item that was not directly related held last March in Beijing.
gold companies from South Africa, the U.S., Canada, to weight. The margins charged for K-gold are much more Photos courtesy of the
World Gold Council.
Australia and China. The Council is working on injecting attractive for the retailer, ranging from 40 to 50 percent.
design excitement into the China market in order to create The innovation worked, and now 18-karat gold
a buzz around gold. represents 18 percent of the Chinese market, without
“We have helped local retailers to modernize their having cannibalized other gold sales. Essentially, the items
display management and to modernize their jewellery appeal to a whole other customer, one who is looking to
design,” says Roland Wang, who heads the Council for gold as an accessory and not only as an investment.
Greater China, which includes Hong Kong and Taiwan. This jumpstart is needed, according to Wang. “We are
“We did seminars, and introduced some modern design the factory of the world on the production side,” he says.
houses to help them update their look. We did sales “But in terms of design, we have a long way to go. Not even
training to help salespeople so they realize they are dealing mentioning Italy, even just compared to South Korea,
with a different kind of consumer. We helped them Japan, Hong Kong. We have a lot to learn.”
improve from design to communication to promotion to Looking ahead, analysts are cautiously optimistic that
sales—everything, essentially.” the gold market in China will continue to boom. As
Part of the process involved the introduction of 18-karat inflation in the country inches towards double digits and
gold to the market, dubbed “K-gold.” At the time of the the price of gold continues to rise, the commodity will
launch in 2003, 18-karat represented about five percent of retain its appeal as an investment. But continuing to
the market. attract the young consumer will remain a challenge.
“We thought that if we introduced 18-karat gold, we Zong, for example, reports that the trendiness of yellow
could introduce some imported jewellery to give a fresh gold is on the rise again, with many of her colleagues in
impression of what modern gold jewellery looks like,” says the fashion industry wearing gold-toned jewellery with
Wang. “We used Italian-made 18-karat gold as a trendsetter white or coloured semi-precious stones.
and asked local producers to follow it.” There is a caveat, however, as many of them are wearing
Zong remembers the first time she saw K-gold. “It looked gold-coloured pieces rather than real gold. To them, says
quite fashionable, different from what I had seen before. It Zong, “the look is more important than the material.” [CJ]
MAY 2008 CJ 59
060.CJ.May_RoughDiamonds:Layout 1 5/1/08 11:30 AM Page 60
Supply
and Charting the course
of rough diamond supply at
Demand
n today’s lean times, those in the global diamond trade are focusing
Israel’s Rough Diamond Conference.
B Y M ARTIN I RVING
I
diamonds, it would be interesting to consider the development of a
increasingly on evolving to meet the challenges of the changing world structure to provide generic advertising support for Canadian
of rough supply. The Third International Rough Diamond Conference, diamonds, especially when it comes to exports.
which took place in Tel Aviv from February 11-12, 2008, brought together Another recurring theme was the anticipated shortage of rough
many of the world’s diamond industry players to discuss those challenges. diamonds, and the critical importance of an assured supply of rough
The African diamond-producing countries, well represented by diamonds for the downstream industry. While numbers and projections
politicians, bureaucrats and businesses, all brought a common message varied, the message was clear: in the next few years, the supply of rough
to the table: that beneficiation, or adding value to the rough diamonds diamonds will be insufficient to meet the slowly-but-steadily growing
before they are exported, is here to stay. While some could argue and demand for diamond jewellery. Different strategies to address the
question the economic viability and sustainability of some of the concerns were mentioned—the Canadian message, of course, was to
approaches, few were able to disagree with the concept. An interesting focus on exploration and production potential, and Canada’s place in the
aspect of the discussion is that the industry as a whole focused on the diamond industry as a significant producer of rough diamonds appears
need for the African beneficiation concept to be economically viable, solid and likely to grow in the future.
without government subsidies to distort the open market. This consensus Some presenters argued that the existing overcapacity in manufac-
came despite the fact that government support (i.e., subsidies) was, and turing (which will only increase as more factories in Southern Africa
continues to be, critical to the viability of the Israeli, Belgian and Indian open) needs to be resolved through corresponding factory closures. A
diamond sectors. The growing importance of the southern African reduction in the global manufacturing capacity would reduce the
producing countries was apparent. It is only a matter of time before such number of companies vying for rough supply, and the market would be
conferences are held in Botswana, Namibia or South Africa. able to absorb the substantial current polished inventory. Surprisingly,
However, it was a pleasant surprise to see that in addition to the theme there was no real mention of synthetics, a hot-button topic recently.
of beneficiation, a number of other themes appeared consistently in There is no doubt that the manufacturing sector needs to evolve to
various speeches and presentations. Several speakers raised the need for address the changing world of rough supply and of diamond jewellery
more generic advertising to grow the overall demand and price of retailing (especially on the Internet). Excess polished inventory, the
diamond jewellery. While models and approaches varied, the central shortage of rough, the overcapacity in manufacturing and the high
concept of the need for more advertising was consistently raised, and bank debt all point towards a restructuring that will be painful for
focused on the need for rough producers (other than De Beers) and some; and while not all will survive, it appears that the large
rough-producing countries to do more in this area. One option is for one manufacturers and the niche manufacturers are most likely to do so.
of the existing global diamond or jewellery organizations to consider Canada’s niche diamond manufacturers should have a better than even
developing an advertising and marketing role. In terms of Canadian chance of weathering the coming storm. [CJ]
60 | CJ M A Y 2008
INTRODUCING
canadianjeweller.com
Read current and past issues online.

Get published.
062-063.CJ.May_Antiqua:Layout 1 5/1/08 11:24 AM Page 62
Anchors
espectacled and casually dressed, the
B Dutch-born jewellery designer Hans

Smit doesn’t necessarily present the
expected image of an accomplished
businessman. Yet here on Antigua, the tiny
island where he makes his home, he has
Aweigh
become a legend, perhaps the leading figure
in a place where the competition is fierce
and jewellery stores abound.
Smit studied at the Academy of Modern
Art in Holland, and began his career in
Spain, where a hotel manager told him
about Antigua, an island he had never
heard of before. “I was young—I thought I
How an Antigua jeweller got on board should go and take a look. I did and never
with the cruise line tourist market. left,” he says. “It’s been 42 years since I
came here and it feels like the first day.”
The Goldsmitty, Smit’s contemporary
B Y B ARBARA K INGSTONE
shop tucked away in Redcliffe Quay in the
62 CJ MAY 2008
062-063.CJ.May_Antiqua:Layout 1 5/1/08 11:24 AM Page 63
“ With huge cruise

ships docking
almost constantly,
The Goldsmitty has
become a tourist
destination for
1.
unique designs”
throughout his collection. To create them, he starts by Previous page: Antigua’s
sun-baked shores make
collecting the flower buds of this local Antiguan bush, the small island an
then in a process similar to the lost wax method, burns out international tourist
the organic material and replaces it with solid 14-karat destination. One and
Two: Hans Smit favours
gold. The nuggets are combined with gold and coloured coloured stones for
stones in a wide variety of ways. “I like pieces to have an his Caribbean-inspired
creations.
organic look and have some texture,” he says.
But a quick glance into the showcases reveals that
coloured stones are his métier. In fact, embarking on stone-
buying trips is one of his favourite aspects of his work. “I
buy at the source,” he says leading me to one of his vitrines.
Indeed, there aren’t many diamond pieces in his
collection; his philosophy is that while he thinks diamonds
are attractive, he much prefers the uniqueness of coloured
stones. Smit proudly shows his cache, including blue-
green tourmalines from Namibia, and Imperial topaz, a
special stone he buys in Brazil. “There’s only one mine
2. now that produces these precious topazes,” he says,
pointing out the various finished rings, bracelets,
pendants and earrings in the cases. One of his most prized
centre of St. John’s, is reason enough to visit this lush pieces is a spectacular, rare 42-carat topaz priced at
Caribbean Island. With huge cruise ships docking almost $32,000. He is also a great admirer of aquamarine—in
constantly, The Goldsmitty has become a tourist fact, the only piece of jewellery he is wearing is a cabochon
destination for unique designs, not least due to Smit’s aquamarine set with his signature bubbled gold work—
well-placed ads aboard the liners. Although the rent in this but his current stock is restricted to stones he purchased in
area is exceptionally pricey, Smit feels it was the best move, Nigeria, when they had the highest quality available.
since the shop is just a few minutes’ walk from the ship. “Prices have escalated, especially for top-of-the-market
Many of Smit’s most loyal clients also vacation at the stones,” he says.
island’s high-end hotels every year, returning again and Smit also purchases loose rubies at the Tucson jewellery
again to purchase his newest creations. fair, pointing to a neckpiece of ruby beads interspersed
A gilt spiral staircase leads from the shop floor up to his with textured gold spacers retailing for over $7,000. When
studio workshop, where two craftspeople execute Smit’s asked if he considers price to be a deterrent, he mentions
one-of-a-kind handmade designs. He works primarily in that he received an order that very day for a similar ruby
14-karat and 18-karat gold, and sees white gold as being piece from a woman who had been by the store weeks ago.
the most popular. When asked about rose gold, he says Indeed, when comparing Antigua’s prices to other major
simply, “We could make it, but the demand is not there.” jewellery centres, Smit dissembles. “It really is difficult to
I spot a card describing something I’ve never heard of know, since mine are unique pieces,” he says. “But I’ve
before: Bread & Cheese Bush jewellery. These gold budlike been told by my clients if I were in New York, the prices
nuggets are one of his recurring signatures, reappearing would be much higher.” [CJ]
MAY 2008 CJ 63
064-065.CJ.May_Whats On:Layout 1 5/2/08 10:00 AM Page 64
what’son
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information, but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact sonia@rivegauchemedia.com.
APRIL | CANADA Phone: (401) 274-3840, ext. 3023 Email: cibjo@cibjo.org MERCHANDISE SHOW
TORONTO JEWELLERY or (800) 444-6572 Web: www.cibjo.org MAY 17-20
GEM & MINERAL SHOW Web: www.mjsainc.com Ernest N. Morial Convention Center
APRIL 25-27 MAY | CANADA New Orleans, LA
Oriole Community Centre GEM, MINERAL, JEWELRY & THE WHOLE BEAD SHOW B.C. Web: www.gift2jewelry.com
Phone: (514) 989-9800 BEAD SHOWS MAY 2-4
Email: torontogemshow@ APRIL 18-20 The Empire Landmark GEM, MINERAL, JEWELRY &
gmail.com National Guard Armory Vancouver, BC BEAD SHOWS
Web: www.torontogemshow.com Charlottesville, VA Phone: (530) 265-2544 MAY 23-25
Web: www.toteshows.com Email: info@wholebead.com Salem Civic Center
APRIL | US Web: www.wholebead.com Salem, VA
GEM & LAPIDARY TRADE SHOW INTERNATIONAL SOCIETY OF Web: www.toteshows.com
APRIL 4-6 APPRAISERS’ CONFERENCE THE WHOLE BEAD SHOW
Embassy Suites/Troy APRIL 25-28 ONTARIO ANNUAL LAS VEGAS GEM &
Detroit, MI The Tremont Grand MAY 9-11 JEWELRY SHOW
Phone: (601) 879-8832 Baltimore, MD The Holiday Inn on King MAY 26-29
www.glwshows.com Phone: (443) 573-8444 Toronto, ON Grand Elegance Showroom &
Phone: (530) 265-2544 Events Center Showroom
SAVANNAH SPRING GEM, APRIL | INTERNATIONAL Email: info@wholebead.com Las Vegas, NV
JEWELRY & BEAD SHOW BASELWORLD – THE WATCH Web: www.wholebead.com Email: info@glda.com
APRIL 4-6 AND JEWELLERY SHOW Web: www.glda.com
Savannah Convention Center APRIL 3-10 THE WHOLE BEAD
Savannah, GA Exhibition Center Basel SHOW QC LUXURY BY JCK
Email: info@aksshow.com Basel, Switzerland MAY 16-18 MAY 27-29
Web: www.aksshow.com Phone: 41-58-206-2525 La Plaza - Holiday Inn The Venetian Hotel Resort
Email: visitor@baselworld.com Montreal, QC and Casino
AGS 2008 INTERNATIONAL Web: www.baselworld.com Email: info@wholebead.com Las Vegas, NV
CONCLAVE Web: www.wholebead.com Email: inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com
APRIL 9-12 SALON INTERNATIONAL Web: www.reedexpo.com
Sheraton Seattle Hotel DE LA HAUTE HORLOGERIE MAY | US
Seattle, WA (INVITATION ONLY) GEM & LAPIDARY COUTURE
Phone: (702) 255-6500 APRIL 7-12 TRADE SHOW MAY 28-JUNE 2
Email: americangemsociety.com Palexpo MAY 9-11 Wynn Las Vegas Resort
Geneva, Switzerland Watauga Festival Center Las Vegas, NV
JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL Web: www.hautehorlogerie.org Franklin, NC Web: www.ja-newyork.com
SHOWCASE Web: www.glwshows.com
APRIL 12-14 MIDEAST WATCH LAS VEGAS ANTIQUE
Miami Beach Convention Center & JEWELLERY SHOW MID-SOUTH JEWELRY & JEWELRY & WATCH SHOW
Miami Beach, FL APRIL 15-19 ACCESSORIES FAIR MAY 29-JUNE 1
Phone: (561) 998-0205 Expo Centre Sharjah MAY 10-12 Rio All-Suite Hotel
Email: jisshow@aol.com Sharjah, UAE Memphis-Cook Convention Las Vegas, NV
Web: www.jisshow.com Email: info@expo-centre.ae Center Web: www.dmgworldmedia.com
Web: www.mideastjewellery.com Memphis, TN
MJSA EXPO NEW YORK Web: www.gift2jewelry.com AGTA GEMFAIR
APRIL 13-15 CIBJO CONGRESS 2008 MAY 29-JUNE 2
Jacob Javits Convention Center APRIL 21-23 INT’L JEWELRY FAIR Las Vegas Pavilion,
New York, NY Dubai, UAE AND GENERAL Venetian Hotel & Casino
64 CJ MAY 2008
064-065.CJ.May_Whats On:Layout 1 5/2/08 10:00 AM Page 65
what’son
Las Vegas, NV Web: www.vicenzafiera.it CANADIAN

Email: shows@agta.org
Web: www.agta.org RUSSIAN STYLE SUMMER SHOW
GOSTINY DVOR PREVIEW
SWISS WATCH BY JCK MAY 22-25
MAY 30-JUNE 3
The Venetian Hotel Resort
Moscow, Russia
Web: www.rjexpert.ru
JCK Toronto
and Casino August 10-12
Metro Toronto Convention Centre, North Building
Las Vegas, NV JUNE | CANADA
Contact: Reed Exhibitions Canada (Scott C. Temple)
Email: inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com STORE - CANADA’S RETAIL
Reed Exhibitions Canada
Web: www.reedexpo.com CONFERENCE
505 Consumers Road, Suite 901
JUNE 2-3
Toronto, Ontario, Canada M2J 4V8
JCK LAS VEGAS Toronto Congress Centre
Phone: (416) 756-8250
MAY 30-JUNE 3 Toronto, ON
Email: stemple@reedexpo.com
Sands Expo & Convention Center Web: www.retailcouncil.org
Web: www.jcktoronto.ca
Las Vegas, NV
Email: inquiry@jck.reedexpo.com JUNE | INTERNATIONAL
Web: www.reedexpo.com CHINA INTERNATIONAL GOLD, CGTA Fall 2008 Gift Show
JEWELLERY & GEM FAIR August 10-14
PORTLAND GIFT & JUNE 13-16 Toronto International Centre, Toronto
ACCESSORIES SHOW Guangzhou Jinhan Congress Centre
MAY 31-JUNE 3 Exhibition Centre Contact: Canadian Gift and
Oregon Convention Center Guangzhou, China Tableware Association
Portland, OR Email: salescjw@cmpasia.com Phone: (800) 611-6100
Web: www.weshows.com Web: www.jewellerynetasia.com Web: www.cgta.org
MAY | INTERNATIONAL JMA MACAU 2008

Western Canadian
INTERNATIONAL JUNE 14-17
JEWELLERY KOBE 2008 Venetian Macao Resort Hotel Jewellery Expo
MAY 15-17 Email: corpcomm@newayfairs.com August 15-17
Kobe International Exhibition Hall Web: www.newayfairs.com Mayfield Inn and Convention Center Edmonton, Alberta
Kobe, Japan Contact: Russ Wickstrom
Email: ijk-eng@reedexpo.co.jp ASIA’S FASHION JEWELLERY & Phone: (780) 458-6036
Web: www.reedexpo.com ACCESSORIES FAIR Fax: (780) 458-7636
JUNE 19-22 Or Contact: Larry Ulliac
JEWELLERY EXPO UKRAINE AsiaWorld-Expo Phone: (780) 467-9549
MAY 15-18 Hong Kong, China Fax: (780) 464-3349
Kyiv Expo Plaza Email: salesafj@cmpasia.com
Kyiv, Ukraine
Email: lesya@kmkya.kiev.ua
Web: www.jewellerynetasia.com
Expo Prestige 2008
Web: www.kmkya.kiev.ua HONG KONG August 24-26
JEWELLERY & WATCH FAIR Place Forzani Laval, Quebec
VICENZAORO SPRING JUNE 19-22 Contact: Lise Petitpas
VICENZA FAIR Hong Kong Convention and Quebec Jewellers’ Corporation
MAY 17-21 Exhibition Centre Phone: (514) 485-3333
Vicenza, Italy Email: salesjwf@cmpasia.com Fax: (450) 649-8984
Email: info@vicenzafiera.it Web: www.jewellerynetasia.com [CJ] Email: lisepetipas@cbq.qc.ca
Web: www.cbq.qc.ca
MAY 2008 CJ 65
066-072.CJ.MrkplcClassy.Show:MarketplaceNov 5/1/08 11:36 AM Page 66
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A D V E R T I S I N G
Creative Gems Inc.

President
Coloured Stones, Beads PRAMOD MITTAL
Diamond Jewellery Serving the Industry Since 1992
21 Dundas Square, Suite #712 Tel: 647-430-8969

Toronto, ON Canada Fax: 647-439-0782
e-mail: mittalp@rogers.com
M5B 1B7 website: www.mittaljewels.com Mobile: 416-319-3378
pure beauty
has a name...
Exclusively available in Canada through

J.W. HISTED DIAMONDS LTD.
Vancouver, B.C.
1-800-663-1458
Online inventory
www.jwdiamonds.ca
All NORDIC FIRE Diamonds are GIA Certified for accurate grading.
66 CJ MAY 2008
showcase
CADMAN
SCHOOL RINGS
“Committed to
Excellence”
CADMAN Mfg. Co. Ltd.

Largest CAD design Courtland, Ontario, Canada N0J 1E0
archive in North America 1-800-265-5790 F 1-888-509-2184 e-mail orders@cadmanmfg.com
30 years experience
in jewellery manufacturing
and desig
Authorized Distributer
Casual meets class, everyday CREATED GEMS AND DIAMONDS
Di-Amanda TM is a distinctive new jewellery collection that makes

the perfect gift. Each piece is a dazzling combination of
handcrafted Sterling silver, denim and genuine diamonds.
ALEXANDRITE . EMERALD . BLUE/PINK SAPPHIRE . RUBY . BLACK OPAL
Please visit us online @ www.maryjewellery.com

to view available shapes and sizes.
Any custom sizes can be special ordered.
TM
Necklaces•Bracelets•Pendants•Earrings
Mary Jewellery & Lapidary Co. Ltd.

Distributed in Canada by D & D Creations,
55 Queen Street East, Suite 1210, Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Toll Free: 1 866 50 DENIM (33646)
Catalogues available online http://www.maryjewellery.com
email: ddcreations@rogers.com
www.dd-creations.com Tel: 416.368.8240/888.470.MARY Fax: 416.368.8057/888.248.MARY
MAY 2008 CJ 67
showcase
Jewel le ry li mi ted
55 Queen Street E., Ste. 1400 Toronto, Ontario M5C 1R6
Tel: (416) 363-1534,Toll Free: 1-800-668-3628 Fax: (416) 363-6656
Over 30 years as
wholesalers in Canada
Four generations of jewellers
A family heritage since 1890
Fine Gold Jewellery
18K,14K,10K,Silver & Platinum
marketplaceA D V E R T I S I N G
ORDER READY BHALLA WATCH HOUSE 1971

IN 24 HOURS Experienced watchmakers.
• BRONZE • PALADIUM Fast, reliable service @ FAIR PRICES!
• STERLING • PLATINUM SINCE 1986 Trust our name for your complete watch repairs.
• GOLD • STAINLESS STEEL Spotless, modern workshop with the latest tools
• ALLOYS FOR GOLD & equipment for timing & cleaning.
CALL TOLL FREE: 1-888-475-5384 Experience The Difference:
Phone: 514-845-5384 • Fax: 514-845-6877 9 Gaspe Rd.L6S 0A4
E-mail: alloyco@alloyco.com • Web site: www.alloyco.com Tel:905-463-0251 • Fax: 905-463-1383
55 Mont-Royal W., suite 600, Montréal, Québec, Canada, H2T 2S6 Gordi Cell: 647-283-2002 • g_bhalla@hotmail.com
68 CJ MAY 2008
marketplace
The Diamonds You Need.

In Stock. Overnight.
We carry finely cut diamonds ranging

from .01 ct to 3.00 ct in a variety of
shapes including round brilliant,
princess, radiant, ascher, emerald, heart,
pear, marquise and oval.
Included in our inventory are CANADIAN diamonds.
Selection, Service and Value

a family tradition since 1955
www.wmolldiamonds.com
Phone 416.364.9748 • Toll Free 1.800.361.8894 • Fax 416.364.9738
21 Dundas Square, Suite 1403 • Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
EXPRESS GOLD REFINING LTD.

PRECIOUS METALS DEALER
ASSAYING • REFINING •
• NO MINIMUM LOTS OR MINIMUM CHARGES
• 4TH GENERATION EXPERIENCE
IN PRECIOUS METALS TRADE
LET US EARN YOUR TRUST
Web: www.xau.ca
Tel: (416) 363-0584 • Fax: (416) 363-9633 • Toll Free: 1-888-401-1111
21 Dundas Square, Suite 401, Toronto, ON M5B 1B7 Email:
info@xau.ca
WORLD’S LARGEST
JEWELLERY AND WATCH
www.cigem.ca REPAIR FRANCHISE IS
•
Accredited Gemmologist (C.I.G.) EXPANDING IN A MALL
Diamond Expert (C.I.G.) NEAR YOU!
Fine Jewellery Appraiser (C.I.G.)
Gem Study Tours Make money for yourself
Books and Instruments and take control
• • Own Your Own Store
P.O. Box 57010
Tel.: (800) 359-0407 • Regional Malls, High Traffic
Email: franchise@fastfix.com • Low Inventory Costs
Vancouver, B.C. V5K 5G6
• 23 Year Proven Record
604-530-8569 Web: www.fastfix.com • No Exp. Nec. Full Training
1-800-294-2211
MAY 2008 CJ 69
marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-STYLE51 lucy@style.ca
.999 GOLD DEPOT

PLATINUM CASTING GRAIN
IRIDIUM, RUTHENIUM
AVAILABLE FOR IMMEDIATE DELIVERY
Call our Hotline for Prices - 416-366-GOLD (4653)
Tel: 416-366-6031 and 416-366-8193 Fax: 416-366-3499
All Precious Metals Bought, Traded and Refined
27 Queen St. East #901, Toronto ON
H & W PERRIN Co. Ltd

Canada’s Leading Supplier of Watch & Clock Materials
PERRINS’ stocks a complete range of findings and settings for the jeweller and a
deep stock of materials for the clock & watchmakers
We inventory a large selection of tools, equipment & supplies for all the trades.
A long standing tradition of service since 1929.
If you aren’t doing business with us, you’re doing it the hard way!
PHONE: (416) 422-4600 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-387-5117
FAX: (416) 422-0290 . . . . .Toll Free 1-800-741-6139
☞ sales@perrin.on.ca
“I can’t open my email, but

I can design in Matrix!”
BEST QUALITY & BIGGEST SELECTION OF SILVER JEWELLERY GUARANTEED.
LIFE TIME WARRANTY, AND VERY LARGE LINE OF 10K JEWELLERY.
Shele Letwin + 14K BODY JEWELLERY, EARINGS, BANDS AND CHAINS.
PHONE 866.299.1702 I F WE D O N ’T HAV E I T. Y O U D ON ’ T WA N T I T.
SERVICE THAT YOU CAN TRUST. FAMILY OWNED & OPERATED
EMAIL shele@letswininc.com
JOHN JR. ARABATLIAN
WEB www.gemvision.com PRESIDENT
CELL: 604-250-2158 TEL: 604-689-4190 FAX: 604-689-4139
TOLL-FREE: 1-877-80-JOHNS TOLL-FREE FAX: 1-888-564-6788
Matrix Software classes available in Canada! ADDRESS: 900-736 Granville Street Vancouver, B.C. V6Z 1G3
Lacy & Company Ltd.

SHOP ON-LINE www.lacytools.ca
Your Total Source of Quality Tools & Equipment
Neutec Laser Welders Canadian Dealer
317 Attwell Drive, Toronto, Ontario M9W 5C1 Jewellers Tools Machines & Supplies
Telephone: 416-675-9171
Toll Free : 800-263-6106 www.gesswein.com 55 Queen Street, East Lower Lobby, Toronto, ON M5C 1R6
24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106 email: sales@gessweincanada
Toll-Free Canada 1-800-387-4466 • 416-365-1375 Fax: 416-365-9909
70 CJ MAY 2008
LaLa Diamond Cutting & Repairs Inc.
• Cutters of Rough Diamonds

• Old Mine Cuts and Repairs to All Shapes
• Buy Diamond Roughs and Broken Diamonds
21 Dundas Square, Suite 805

Toronto, Ontario M5B 1B7
Tel/Fax: (416) 368-6883
MOISSANITE CANADA
Reflect the brilliance of your life
~
With more brilliance and luster than any popular
gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald
no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite.
~
Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966
215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9
A Cut Above the Rest

Northam “30 YEARS INTERNATIONAL EXPERIENCE”
Diamond Inc. YOUR #1 SOURCE

OF SUPPLY
• 400+ calibres of watch movements for Swiss &
ORDER 2008 Japanese watches
Importers & Wholesale suppliers specializing in Fine Make & Ideal Cuts. Loose COLOR CATLOGUE
Polished Diamonds in all shapes & sizes from .01CT to 5.00 CTS, • 1000+ of flat & domed crystals.
• 100+ types of crowns from Japan, Switzerland & Far East.
Fancy colours & Canadian Diamonds • 100+ types of tools for watchemakers & jewellers.
Canadamark – Brand: Arctic Fox Diamond • 100+ kinds of batteries.
27 Queen Street East, Suite 1004, Toronto, Ontario, Canada M5C 2M6 Tel.: 1-888-somal 99 • HIGH QUALITY WATCH BANDS META/
Tel: (416) 861-1414 Fax: (416) 861-1581 • 1-800-941-GEMS Fax: 1-877-somal 77 LEATHER/PVC
email: sales@northamdiamonds.com www.northamdiamonds.com www.somalcanada.com • JEWELLERY BOXES
STEWARTS HOROLOGY
SS, 10K, 14K,
18K, 19K, 22K,
QUALITY service and attention to detail.

Specializing in
PLATINUM AND
19 K ULTRA WHITE • 6 Highly Qualified Technicians
• Large Inventory of Parts and Access to all
GOLD CASTING
215 Victoria St., Suite B3 the Major Supply Houses
Toronto, ON M5B 1T9
REPAIRS to fine Watches, Quartz and
Mechanical, Restoration of Pocket Watches.
*CATALOGUE AVAILABLE* Tel: (416) 366-4046
We are no longer just a casting house: we will take your order
Fax: (416) 366-5162
from idea to finished product, including diamonds and other
Toll Free: 1-877-365-5552 1515 PORTAGE AVENUE, WINNIPEG, MANITOBA, CANADA R3G 0W7
stones. (Call our toll-free number or fax us for free estimates)
Email: readymounts@on.aibn.com Te l: (204) 78 9-9620
In stock settings and mounts. www.readymounts.com Ema il: st e wb n z1 @mt s. n e t
MAY 2008 CJ 71
JEWELLERY REPAIR
IN
YOUR
YOUR
Revolution.
1
NAME E N V E L O P E
Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com
DESIGN L O W E S T PRICES It’s all about you.
DESIGN
TO
T O YOUR
YO U R NO
N O IIN
N Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.
OW
O WN Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate
WISHES
W ISHES D A on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
ALL Get published.
PRINTING
P RINTING 1 - 800 661- 4410
STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9
NCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m
IINCLUDED
classified BUSINESS
FOR SALE
FOR SALE
The oldest jewellery manufacturing company
in Canada, established 1886 of lodge,
AGENTS/REPS WANTED
Major Canadian Diamond

Importer/Jewellery manufacturer EMPLOYMENT OFFER corporate and school jewellery. Owner
is retiring, call Mike at 905-522-4663
DIAMOND & COLORED STONE
seeks sales representatives for SETTER MAISON DE PRESTIGE,
Western Canada. 1954 KAUFMANN DE SUISSE Experienced model-maker
Reply to: fax: 416-368-8849 (17 yrs in Russia, Israel & Canada), extremely skilled
in carving wax, diverse techniques in metal, and
Email: captainpe@rogers.com If your setting work is exceptional and on
design/redesign, is interested in a full-time job in
par with the finest in the industry, if you
wish to join a growing and international Greater Toronto Area that requires accuracy and high
Prestigious, well established Vancouver quality of work performance.
workshop seeking fully qualified, full time, brand, then we might have a position for you.
You take pride in your rigorous and exact Please e-mail: bridge.across2@yahoo.com
HELP WANTED
HELP WANTED
goldsmith, preferably European trained. Must

be proficient in hand-fabricating high end, workmanship style, and are conscientious
BUSINESS OPPORTUNITIES
custom jewellery from design, in gold and of achieving perfection in your work.
platinum. Email or fax resume and photos
if possible. References essential.
You are gifted at all setting types and want
to join a dedicated and talented team
STORES WANTED
We are looking to purchase non-mall
Email: costen_catbalue@telus.net where your efforts will be appropriately jewellery locations. Preference will be
Fax: 604-736-8820 remunerated and your work appreciated. given to high-visibility locations. We will
acquire your inventory, leaseholds and lease.
I am a goldsmith from Varese, northern Application can be sent to: We pay top dollar. Please contact in full
Italy with over 30 years of experience, KAUFMANN de SUISSE confidence, jack@omnijewelcrafters.com
2195 Crescent Street, Montreal
SERVICES
offering my services as a model maker.

Quebec, Canada H3G 2C1
I can reproduce any type of jewellery, administration@kaufmanndesuisse.ca JEWELLERY STORE FOR SALE
also miniatures and guarantee absolute Great location in Downtown Toronto
Almost 20 years in business
FOR SALE
reliability and professionality. Contact We will be happy to facilitate your

Paolo Bettinelli goldbet.bettinelli@tele2.it Visa application with Canada Immigration. with a loyal clientele
All chattels/fixtures included
Please call 416-704-7480 or
ADINDEX
Basal Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .2
Jewelers Mutual Insurance . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .9
Jewels By Koby . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26
e-mail toronto.jewellers@gmail.com
for more information
Bergeron . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43 JVC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .43
Byrex Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20
Diamonds Direct . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .8, 21
CGTA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .27
MCD Pearls . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Meridian/Watier Findings . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .28
Mirage . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .76
FOR SALE,
CMP Asia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .29 Nova . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 jewellery engraving business in Haliburton,
FOR SALE
Gee ’N Gee . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Pandora . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Ontario. Established family business since 1964.
Gem Sparkle . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .55 Pierre Laurent . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .14 Second generation owned, comes equipped with
GIA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .13 Ready Mount . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .30
House of Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .32 Regal . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .16, 17, 74, 75 full engraving shop and jewellery and repair
HRA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .6,7 Rio Tinto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .4, 5 equipment. Reason for selling, health reasons.
IIJS . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .23 Rousseau . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41
Importex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .41 Sanghavi Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Please call 705-457-2911 or 877-567-3756,
JCK Vegas . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .19 World Jewelry Centre . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .3 ask for Kim or Mike, serious inquiries only.
72 CJ MAY 2008
073.CJ.May_Last word:Layout 1 5/2/08 1:40 PM Page 73
lastword
It is the
curves in that
path to adventure that Pavé Cave ring from
Georg Jensen.
make the trip interesting

and worthwhile.
– Lawrence Kutner
RETURN ADDRESS: 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106 | TORONTO ONTARIO, M4W 3B8 MAY 2008 CJ 73
R EGAL I MPORTS
Protecting your reputation by not compromising standards
The diamond supplier to the reputable buyer
Are CanadaMark diamonds

What is CanadaMark?
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sentation.
Consumer web link s www.hallmarkofquality.ca

Interactive inventory price list s www.regalimportsltd.com
Advertising graphics and image download s www.regalimportsltd.com
Council for responsible jewellery practices
photo: www.fotograficastudio.com
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REGAL IMPORTS LTD.
1.800.863.2621 T. 604.263.2621 F. 604.263.4008


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qxd 5/2/08 3:21 PM Page 2

PLUS: GOLD TRENDS

YOU CANNOT AFFORD

“The World Jewelry Center is the

THE NEW GLOBAL MARKETPLACE

RESERVE YOUR SPACE:

CANADA HAS ONE SOURCE FOR D IAM ONDS

SGI is a member of the Group of Companies.

THE ONLY PLACE FOR

HEARTS & ARROWS

The largest manufacturer of

ESTABLISHED 1879 MAY 2008 • VOL . 129, NO . 2

Olivier Felicio Publisher | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

CONTRIBUTORS Nyka Alexander, Jessica Ruby Bent, Vakis Boutsalis,

Jeff Yamaguchi ADVERTISING SALES

Melissa Badr CIRCULATION/CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER

Head Office 60 Bloor Street West, Suite 1106

Montreal Office 555 Chabanel Street West, Suite 1507

Olivier Felicio President | olivier@rivegauchemedia.com

of Argyle Pink Diamonds Change of Address

Brokers of Rare Jewels

“Jewelers Mutual offers the very best

Learned to Tango My new Job

48 Worth Its Weight

50 Head of the Class

60 Supply and Demand

DON’T MISS THE BOAT!

Consumer web link s www.hallmarkofquality.ca

THE A RT OF DIAMOND G RADING

REGAL IMPORTS LTD.

1.800.863.2621 T. 604.263.2621 F. 604.263.4008

Photo: Tessa Angus

:KHUH WKHUH·V VPRNH WKHUH·V ÀUH

Brokers of Rare Jewels

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fortherecord news |trends |events

One: Models wearing Mendonça’s

CANADIAN DESIGN DUO

1. DE BEERS TAPS UPSCALE MARKET

One: Hong Kong has become an international luxury

LONGINES IS OFF TO THE RACES

GIA OPENS SOUTH AFRICAN OFFICE

DIAMOND SMUGGLER CAUGHT

IGI GOES MOBILE

The CGTA Gift Show is Bigger and Better than Ever!

Read current and past issues online.

AVOIDING CREDIT FRAUD Tips for safe credit card sales:

Free For Suppliers

Solutions for Retailers

SAMPLE PREMIUM SITES SAMPLE BASIC SITES

WENGER’S GOES ONLINE

PDAC DRAWS RECORD NUMBERS

CLARIFICATION AND CORRECTION

TORONTO, ONTARIO 2. DALLAS, TEXAS

NEW YORK, NEW YORK

CARLSBAD, CALIFORNIA IRVING, TEXAS

OPENBLUE NETWORKS & CANADIAN JEWELLER

FOCUS ON GOLD JEWELLERY

GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES BY POPULARITY

TOP 10 STYLES IN ALL GOLD JEWELLERY CATEGORIES

TOP 10 STYLES IN BRACELETS

TOP 10 STYLES IN EARRINGS

TOP 10 STYLES IN RELIGIOUS JEWELLERY-CROSSES

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