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AUGUST 2008
CANADIAN JEWELLER
AUGUST 2008
Gemstone Trends:
FIND OUT WHAT’S HOT
Diamonds in the
Rough:
CANADA’S MINING BUSINESS
KEEPS ON GROWIN G
The Spider
Web’s Catch
MASTER GOLDSMITH, Reputation
MIKLOS VARGA
in a Blue
Box
PUBLICATIONS MAIL 40678000 | 60 BLOOR STREET WEST SUITE 1106, TORONTO ON, M5W 3B8
Brand and
Deliver
WHAT BRANDING MEANS
TO YOUR BOTTOM LINE
PLUS:
IN-DEPTH INDUSTRY, MINING AND TECH NEWS
For details, write #142 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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For details, write #101 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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1-800-361-4611
info@morellato.ca
www.morellato.com
JCK Toronto
booth# 1211
For details, write #102 on Free Info Page, page 120.
August 10-11-12
expo prestige
booth # 827
august 24-25-26
CJ_005_Jewellers Mutual.qxd:JM_CanJwllr 2-07 7/21/08 3:33 PM Page 2
Coverage
you can count on.
“I insure with Jewelers Mutual to protect
what I love. Jewelers Mutual insures only
jewellery and jewellery businesses, so they
understand my insurance needs
better than anyone.”
People
you can count on.
“My dad started this business more than
50 years ago and always said that being a
jeweller is a privilege because we are in the
business of helping people celebrate their
special occasions. Jewelers Mutual is there
to help make sure we continue to
do just that.”
— Frank Damiani
Damiani Jewellers, Ltd.
Woodbridge, Ontario
For details, write #103 on Free Info Page, page 120.
• Offer a broad range of coverages designed for all types of businesses in the jewellery industry:
appraisers, repair jewellers, designers, retailers, wholesalers, and manufacturers.
• Are owned by our customers. We re-invest our profits so we can offer reduced rates, increased
services, and expanded coverages.
• Produce numerous security materials, including two online training courses and a DVD. Our latest
course instructs retail jewellers how to sell safely and prevent retail theft.
800-558-6411 • www.jewelersmutual.com
YourInsuranceExpert@jminsure.com
For details, write #104 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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Subscription Rates
Canada — one year, $35; two years, $45; three years $55. United States — one year, US$44. Foreign — one year US$56 (Subscriptions include Buyers’
Guide issues.) 8% P.S.T. for Newfoundland, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia residents. Single copies — $5; Buyers’ Guide $40. Bulk rates — six or more
subscriptions, $17.50 per subscription per year (Canada only).
For details, write #105 on Free Info Page, page 120.
Change of Address
email: melissa@rivegauchemedia.com telephone: (416) 203-7900 ext 6109 fax: (416) 703-6392
or send your cover label and new address to Canadian Jeweller magazine, 60 Bloor Street West,
Suite 1106, Toronto, ON Canada M4W 3B8
Published by Rive Gauche Media II Inc.
Canada Post Canadian Publications Mail Sales Product Agreement No. 141550 The publisher does not assume any responsibility for the contents of
any advertisement and any and all representations or warranties made in such advertising are those of the advertiser and not of the publisher. The
publisher is not liable to any advertiser for any misprints in advertising not the fault of the publisher and in such an event the limit of the publisher’s
liability shall not exceed the amount of the publisher’s charge for such advertising. No portion of this publication may be reproduced, in all or part,
without the express written permission of the publisher. Canadian Jeweller magazine is pleased to review unsolicited submissions for editorial con-
sideration under the following conditions: all material submitted for editorial consideration (photographs, illustrations, written text in electronic or
hard copy format) may be used by Canadian Jeweller. and their affiliates for editorial purposes in any media (whether printed, electronic, internet,
disc, etc.) without the consent of, or the payment of compensation to, the party providing such material. Please direct submissions to the Editor,
Canadian Jeweller magazine.
8 CJ AUGUST 2008
For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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table of
Contents
August 2008
Features
62 Canada: Diamonds in the Rough
62
The rising of Canada’s diamond production.
94
74
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table of
Contents
August 2008
Departments 40
14 Director’s Note
20 Product Showcase
40 Who’s News
Frederic Buyle teams up with Riedenschild;
top designers awarded at Couture show;
new director at New Guinea Gold.
44 Stock Index
46 Mining News
AMEC awarded $150m Arctic Mining Project;
Richmont Mines to start drilling; update on Peruvian 110 What’s On
labour strike.
60 Retail
10 ways to stay afloat in choppy retail waters.
66 Face Value
How today's appraisers are arriving at values.
68 Market Watch
Top 100 men’s jewellery items.
30
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For details, write #106 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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director’snote
Photo: Davide Bagnoral
125 Years
and Counting…
FOR OVER 125 YEARS, CANADIAN JEWELLER HAS HELPED RETAILERS
across Canada build their business by providing them with insightful industry
news, trends and other salient information. I’m excited to say that this
longstanding tradition continues, and with a vengeance.
You might have noticed a change or two in the last issue, the most prevalent being
our cover featuring Ben Moss’ Brent Trepel. As you can plainly see with this issue,
which showcases Birks & Mayors CEO, Thomas Andruskevich, we’re going to
continue to feature Canada’s leading retailers, giving you a detailed and inside
look at their businesses and how they’ve bred success.
Our goal with CJ is to pay homage to your bottom line. And to accomplish this,
we hope you find our ongoing sections, such as Tech Feature, Star Watch, Mining
and Tech News and Stock Index, of exceptional value. Finally, we’re pleased to
introduce our Company Profile, which in this case, tells the story of renowned
manufacturer, Siffari.
On another note, we’re very excited about the Excellence in Design competition
for 2008. This year, we received over 80 entries from designers across the country.
PAGE 16
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director’snote
Three finalists were chosen from each of the five categories – Diamonds+
Coloured Diamonds; Canadian Diamonds; Pearls; Platinum and Coloured
Gemstones. So who will the winners be? You’ll have to wait until they’re
announced at JCK Toronto on Monday, August 11th, from 6 to 8pm at the
Intercontinental Toronto Centre.
To celebrate the event, we’re hosting an Award Ceremony and Reception at JCK,
complete with open bar, refreshments and h’ors d’oeuvres. And don’t forget to view
the winning designs in all their glory at our booth at JCK Toronto on Tuesday,
August 12th.
It’s plain to see that there’s a lot going on at Canadian Jeweller, and everyone here
looks forward to providing you with the information and expert advice to help
propel your business. We also welcome your insights, opinions and
recommendations to help us take the magazine through the next 125 years, so
please make sure to email or call with your words of wisdom.
Bryan Soroka
To your success.
Bryan Soroka
Director, Editorial & Communications
16 CJ AUGUST 2008
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productshowcase
FLANDERS COLLECTION
In the Flanders Collection from Gee N’ Gee Importers, every
diamond is a brilliant shape with 61 facets. All stones are
sized small to big and are mined from the Northwest
Territories - certified Canadian diamonds. In order to achieve
brilliance, all the facets have to be positioned
in a precise way. Gee N’ Gee Importers is
known for anything to everything in
manufacturing of jewellery, as the
Company’s products and customers
speak for them - motivation is what has gotten the
Company started and habit is what keeps them going.
For more information, write 112 on the Free Info
Card on page 120.
FIRETRACE
GS Laboratories introduces Firetrace™,
which now makes it possible for clients to
accurately measure the light performance
of their diamonds. This technology
analyzes the light-reflecting properties
of a diamond and allows you to determine
how much life is in your stones - it is one
more way that GS Laboratories can help you ensure your
diamonds stand out in a crowd. For more information,
write 114 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
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productshowcase
QUARTZ COLLECTION
Siffari is proud to introduce the Quartz Collection.
All items are available in a variety of brilliant
colours - Lemon, Light Yellow, Mint Green,
Olive and Cognac. Siffari products are always
customizable in 10K, 14K or 18K and white or
yellow gold. Suggested retail prices range from
$550 to $2,000. For more information, write 116
on the Free Info Card on page 120.
JM UNIVERSITY
JM University was established to further Jewelers Mutual’s
commitment to educating customers and the jewellery
industry about safety, security and insurance. As the
Jewelers Mutual virtual classroom for security and
insurance education, JM University offers materials for
everyone. For more information, call 1-800-558-6411
or write 117 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
CANADIAN ROCKS
SGI is pleased to announce the launch
of its Canadian Rocks brand in Canada.
Offering a complete marketing program
for the independent jeweller, Canadian Rocks
offers a range of Canadian diamond products from
basics (earrings and pendants) to premium programs with
AGS documents. For a Canadian Rocks catalogue, contact
info@sungems.ca. For more information, write 118 on the Free Info Card on page 120.
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productshowcase
To find out how you can feature your exquisite designs and
related products/services in our Product Showcase, e-mail
olivier@rivegauchemedia.com or call 416.203.7900 x 6107 today.
24 CJ AUGUST 2008
For details, write #115 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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2008 Categories
1. DIAMONDS & COLOURED DIAMONDS
Any piece of jewellery that puts diamonds or coloured diamonds in the spotlight.
Each design must have a minimum diamond content of 1 carat.
2. CANADIAN DIAMONDS
Entries must feature Canadian diamonds and be accompanied by certification
attesting to each diamond’s Canadian origin. Smaller accent stones need not
be Canadian.
3. PEARLS
The central design element in these entries must be natural pearls. Other
gemstones and diamonds can be used as accent stones.
4. PLATINUM
The overall metal content of these designs must be a minimum of 75%
platinum, but any combination of gemstones and gold may be used.
5. COLOURED GEMSTONES
These entries, which must feature coloured gemstones as the central design
element, will be judged on creativity.
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design
Award Ceremony & Reception
Monday August 11th, 2008
630pm - 830pm
Open Bar, complimentary refreshments and
H'ors d'oeuvres will be served
Location:
Intercontinental Hotel
in the Ontario Room
RSVP to sonia@rivegauchemedia.com
416 203-7900 ext 6101
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Round and Larger C-Type and the surface of the horns and end-pieces
Precious3 Debuts at 2008 JCK
by Paul Picot are made in solid 18-carat rose gold. The use Las Vegas Show
of noble materials, as well as the subtle Taché Jewelry, a division of Taché USA Inc.,
combination of black and gold make the debuted Precious3, a unique new blend
titanium and rose gold 48mm C-Type an including three of nature’s most noble metals
elegant watch. – gold, platinum and silver at the 2008 JCK
The two all-titanium models, produced Las Vegas Show to rave reviews. This new
in limited editions of 500 pieces, are contemporary alloy offers the look, feel and
characterized by their sporty look. They are value of fine gold jewellery, but retails for up to
mainly distinguishable by a subtle interplay of 50% less, making it an affordable alternative
colours. In the first version, which is entirely to fine gold jewellery that may just take the
in the colour of titanium, only the bezel is industry by storm. In fact, according to Victor
edged with black, while, in the second version, Weinman, President and CEO of Taché USA
the tips, horns and bezel are also black. Inc., “I have never seen such interest and
excitement around a product in the thirty
years that I have been attending trades shows.”
Over the past year with the price of gold
Ontario Cuts Deal for New near record levels, Taché Jewelry saw an
Diamond Industry opening in the market and worked for nearly
Ontario has taken the next step to expand its
one year along with a highly skilled algorist to
new diamond industry. As a result of an research and develop this proprietary blend,
agreement in principle between the McGuinty Precious3. “One year ago, I realized that quite
government and De Beers Canada, operator a number of high turning items were being
of Ontario’s first diamond mine, activities such passed over by customers and had to be
as cutting and polishing will be expanded discontinued due to the retailer price not
Paul Picot C-Type Chronographs
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WWW.CANADIANJEWELLER.COM
For details, write #124 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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or e-mail to marketing@riogrande.com for a the Company’s latest stock availability. “We’ve In addition to the Light Performance
brochure. Visit www.saulbellaward.com for developed a live inventory approach for sourcing Report, GemEx has expanded to offer Live
more information about the Saul Bell Design our diamonds,” explains Yuval Kemp, Dalumi’s Report™, online reports that allow customers
Emerging Artist Award and the specific Head of Marketing and Business Development. to view a diamond under the five different
guidelines for the 2009 competition. Kemp points out that “for the first time our light views as seen under the BrillianceScope
customers can access the Dalumi diamonds Spectrophotometer. Customers can use a Live
Rado Presents 2008 Collection they need at the click of a mouse.” The Report to enhance any of these images to view
inventory includes thousands of diamonds the unique details of a purchased diamond.
and is continuously updated with 500 new This digital diamond report can also be used
diamonds every month. Clients can search the to compare two diamonds and acts as a
Company’s complete certified diamond stock database for all information pertinent to a
according to shape, colour, clarity, weight and unique diamond. Each Live Report displays all
lab. Helpful order management tools ensure of the data provided on the hard copy of the
added efficiency and convenience. By clicking GemEx Light Performance™ Report that comes
on detailed inventory reports with prices and with every GemEx rated diamond, as well as
a personal order history, customers can keep the diamond’s dimensions and traditional 4C
track of their account and all expenditures. rating information when available.
Dalumi is delighted with the response to the
pilot stage, which has led to numerous new
transactions. The Company believes that a Le Vian® and In Style Forecast
considerable portion of its certified business 2009 Trends
will now move online. Clients can register at Eddie LeVian, designer and CEO of Le Vian
the Dalumi website www.dalumi.com. Corp., the 500-year-old fine jewellery with a
storied past as gem collector and jeweller to
royalty, joined top industry guests at Le Vian®
Rado Jubilé watch
AUGUST 2008 CJ 37
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trend forecasting and glamorous handmade March 8-10, 2009, at the Jacob K. Javits MJSA sales and marketing director at
fine jewellery designs using rare diamonds and Convention Center in New York City. Show 1-800-444-6572, ext. 3023 or email
gems. Le Vian® designs are loved and collected hours are from 10am to 6pm on Sunday and bruce.coltin@mjsa.org.
by a diverse clientele, from young couples Monday; 10am to 3pm on Tuesday.
buying first rings, to billionaire royals investing MJSA Expo New York is the largest and oldest
in high-carat statement pieces,” he continues. trade show in the U.S., dedicated to the design WhatisMoissanite.com
“But it is our work with celebrities who choose and manufacturing of jewellery, with the latest Educate Consumers
Le Vian® for their red carpet appearances at supplies, machinery, components, services and Charles and Colvard, creators of Moissanite™,
Hollywood award shows, movie premieres finished products all under one roof. The show have unveiled a new interactive website,
and events that have allowed us to spot the features more than 400 booths, thousands of WhatisMoissanite.com, to help consumers
trends, provide and create the trends, and tell national and international buyers and a full understand moissanite. The new site, which
our collectors all about it. This is what you have roster of seminars and training. launched during the second quarter, is user
witnessed here today and which has The show also features two annual friendly and works to educate the public
transformed the House of Le Vian® into the presentations: the MJSA Vision Awards, which about beautiful lab-created moissanite –
fashion couture fine jeweller of choice. And recognizes designers whose work will have a what it is, how it came to be and why it
the industry is following our lead.” profound influence on the future of jewellery stands out from other jewels and gemstones.
design, and the MJSA Innovation Awards, In addition, the site was developed as an
which recognizes the most creative tools, educational web link for retailers who sell
New Dates for MJSA technologies, and processes introduced Charles and Colvard jewellery.
Expo NY 2009 during the past year. “The marketing and advertising of gemstones
Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of America For more information about MJSA Expo and jewels, particularly on the Internet, can be
(MJSA) has announced new dates for its flagship New York, visit mjsa.org. For information on confusing and, in some cases, misleading to
show, MJSA Expo New York, which will be held exhibiting at the show, contact Bruce Coltin, the public” says Charles and Colvard CEO
Bob Thomas.“From the earliest days of Charles
and Colvard, we have consistently attempted
to accurately describe our beautiful jewel,
and on whatismoissanite.com, consumers will
find fully documented information that serves
as an excellent tool in helping them identify
and truly understand why moissanite is such
an amazing jewel.”
Smart Source
Sy Kessler Sales, Inc. introduces its latest Smart
Source Catalog of innovative jewellers’ equipment,
tools and supplies, all of which are available
from leading jewellery supply houses worldwide.
The catalogue contains 124 full colour pages
featuring GemOro Superior Instrument’s line
of powerful ultrasonics, steam cleaners, digital
scales, microscopes, gemological instrumentation,
loupes, CZ master sets, diamond/moissanite
testers, watch battery changing tools and more.
Visit http://sykessler.com/2008catalog.pdf
to download a copy.
WEIL Presents
nabucco cuore caldo
The nabucco cuore caldo is the latest exceptional
timepiece from RAYMOND WEIL. The
independent Swiss watchmaker has unveiled
this double chronograph with power-reserve
indicator – a first in the history of the
Smart Source Catalog
38 CJ AUGUST 2008
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McKinney Weaving Retail Web address as well as a store code. When no code is
In efforts to move its new brand forward, entered, by default the sale is automatically
McKinney Jewelry has devised an e-commerce credited to the closest store. At the point of
system by which every time an item is purchase, the credited retailer automatically
purchased on the web, the closest retailer to that receives an email from McKinney detailing
of the consumer will receive 40% of the total the item sold, customer contact information
price of the sale (excluding shipping and tax). and the dollar amount the store is to receive
A customer logs onto McKinneyForMen.com on the acquisition. The check for the 40% will
and places his or her order. Upon check-out, he be mailed to the McKinney retailer within 30
or she is prompted to input a credit card billing days of the customer purchase. [CJ]
nabucco cuore caldo
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who’snews
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Garry Edwards
who’snews
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stockindex
PRECIOUS METALS
Agnico-Eagle Mines AEM-T TSX $77.000 $70.320 -8.68% $82.800 $36.680 $133.1 66.93 $10,104
Alamos Gold AGI-T TSX $6.980 $6.720 -3.72% $8.400 $4.820 $31.1 82.38 $638
Anglogold Ashanti Ltd. AU-N NYSE $33.100 $35.670 7.76% $51.350 $28.750 $894.0 38.98 $10,023
Anvil Mining Limited AVM-T TSX $10.580 $10.480 -0.95% $20.140 $8.070 $77.7 5.89 $746
Barrick Gold Corp. ABX-T TSX $24.200 $28.020 15.79% $30.000 $17.000 $1,968.0 22.6 $41,594
Compania Minas Buenaventu BVN-N NYSE $63.230 $65.830 4.11% $85.780 $31.100 $212.0 46.6 $8,375
Eastern Platinum ELR-T TSX $2.400 $2.070 -13.75% $4.180 $1.830 $60.2 N/A $1,390
Eldorado Gold ELD-T TSX $8.650 $7.880 -8.90% $9.010 $3.790 $71.8 61.15 $2,715
Equinox Minerals Limited EQN-T TSX $4.160 $3.680 -11.54% $6.200 $2.610 $0.7 N/A $2,083
First Quantum Minerals FM-T TSX $12.280 $11.130 -9.36% $24.500 $10.220 $511.8 7.2 $4,537
FNX Mining Company FNX-T TSX $19.950 $18.560 -6.97% $39.770 $18.090 $143.5 15.52 $1,570
Gammon Gold GAM-T TSX $10.300 $9.500 -7.77% $13.700 $5.800 $55.0 N/A $1,124
Gold Eagle Mines GEA-T TSX $9.870 $10.120 2.53% $10.500 $4.100 $1.0 255 $1,023
Gold Fields GFI-N NYSE $12.460 $12.900 3.53% $19.915 $10.660 $821.1 N/A $8,418
Goldcorp Inc. G-T TSX $49.000 $45.990 -6.14% $52.480 $22.400 $607.1 56.67 $32,663
Iamgold Corp. IMG-T TSX $6.210 $6.010 -3.22% $10.250 $5.690 $220.3 N/A $1,776
International Royalty IRC-T TSX $5.160 $4.640 -10.08% $7.700 $4.470 $11.5 28.5 $364
Ivanhoe Mines IVN-T TSX $12.000 $11.830 -1.42% $16.900 $7.800 $2.8 N/A $4,438
Kinross Gold K-T TSX $23.770 $22.830 -3.95% $27.160 $10.580 $354.9 38.68 $14,037
Lundin Mining LUN-T TSX $5.690 $5.090 -10.54% $15.200 $5.050 $306.3 N/A $1,987
Newmont Mining NMC-T TSX $51.950 $48.400 -6.83% $58.440 $40.880 $1,943.0 50.74 $21,025
NovaGold Resources NG-T TSX $7.620 $9.720 27.56% $19.990 $5.900 $0.3 N/A $1,022
Pan American Silver PAA-T TSX $35.580 $33.320 -6.35% $43.660 $22.440 $111.9 25.85 $2,691
Red Back Mining Inc. RBI-T TSX $8.800 $8.850 0.57% $9.160 $4.500 $55.1 N/A $1,667
Silver Standard Resources SSO-T TSX $28.610 $29.260 2.27% $44.070 $24.770 $3.7 N/A $1,834
Silver Wheaton SLW-T TSX $15.300 $14.900 -2.61% $19.300 $10.450 $48.4 33.3 $3,333
Teck Cominco Ltd. TCK.B-T TSX $42.720 $40.020 -6.32% $53.800 $27.060 $1,581.0 10.77 $17,745
Yamana Gold Inc. YRI-T TSX $15.100 $14.020 -7.15% $19.790 $9.050 $359.4 36.28 $9,504
GEMSTONES
Anglo American PLC AAUK-Q Nasdaq $29.060 $27.870 -4.09% $38.750 $22.730 N/A N/A $73,696
BHP Billiton Limited BHP-N NYSE $76.780 $71.860 -6.41% $95.610 $49.420 N/A 15.42 $257,259
Diamcor Mining DMI-X TSX-V $0.540 $0.435 -19.44% $1.170 $0.285 N/A N/A $3
Diamond Fields International DFI-T TSX $0.065 $0.065 0.00% $0.060 $0.215 $1.4 N/A $14
Dios Exploration DOS-X TSX-V $0.320 $0.320 0.00% $0.560 $0.230 N/A N/A $6
Harry Winston Diamond T.HW TSX $24.240 $19.830 -18.19% $43.850 $20.320 $157.4 9.68 $1,217
Mountain Province Diamonds MPV-T TSX $4.410 $4.270 -3.17% $5.300 $3.770 N/A N/A $255
Moydow Mines Intl Inc MOY-T TSX $0.185 $0.210 13.51% $0.400 $0.135 N/A N/A $12
New Nadina Expls Ltd NNA-X TSX-V $0.190 $0.180 -5.26% $0.485 $0.110 N/A N/A N/A
Nordic Diamonds Ltd NDL-X TSX-V $0.260 $0.310 19.23% $1.010 $0.255 N/A N/A N/A
Rio Tinto RTP-N NYSE $431.250 $401.500 -6.90% $558.650 $221.846 N/A N/A $107,096
Stornoway Diamond SWY-T TSX $0.260 $0.310 19.23% $1.010 $0.255 $0.2 N/A $62
Tahera Diamond TAH-T TSX $0.035 $0.030 -14.29% $0.620 $0.025 $5.1 N/A $6
True North Gems TGX-X TSX-V $0.315 $0.310 -1.59% $0.710 $0.300 N/A N/A $15
COMMODITIES
Gold COMX $959.300
Silver COMX $18.135
Platinum NYME $1,858.300
Palladium NYME $416.600
44 CJ AUGUST 2008
For details, write #131 on Free Info Page, page 120.
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President and chief executive officer of The Company has also identified new zones results of grab samples have been tremendous:
Midway Gold, Alan Branham, said a number at the Orosi mine. Around 7,140 metres of the gold value is up over two ounces per ton
of the 14 holes “significantly improved” on drilling in 40 holes have so far been completed and ... it’s occurring within quartz felsic
previous grades and thicknesses. “Historic at the site as part of 10,000 metres, which have porphyry which is the host draw for most of
drilling stopped too soon and had occasional been planned. Both the Orosi and Limon the mines in that area.” Grab samples at the
sample preparation and quality control mine are based in Nicaragua. site have produced mineralization results of
problems that may have understated the gold, 54.2 g/t of gold.
in portions of the current resource,” he STERLING MINING CLOSES $2.4 Huffman is eight kilometres from the
explained. Midway Gold’s Pan Project is MILLION BRIDGE LOAN Jerome gold mine. Production at the Jerome
located on the Battle Mountain-Eureka gold Sterling Mining Company has arranged a debt gold mine lasted between 1941 and 1943 and
trend in the U.S. state of Nevada. financing for $2.4 million. The Company produced 56,878 ounces of gold. Namex
entered into a bridge term loan with a group Explorations is a Canadian exploration
of lenders in the principal amount of company. Along with the Huffman property,
US GOLD ENCOUNTERS MORE $2,400,000. After a deduction for a reserve of the company has three other sites in Ontario
MINERALIZATION $216,000 for interest and legal expenses, a and three properties in Quebec.
Drilling at the Magistral Mine in Mexico has payment to the lender for services of $144,000
yielded more gold mineralization, according and recording and other costs, the net BRITISH GOLD MINE TO REOPEN
to US Gold. The Company confirmed proceeds to the Company were $2,021,740. A British gold mine is set to reopen by
“positive” results from its operations at the The principal amount of the loan is due 120 Scotgold Resources, according to the Guardian.
site, which is located in Sinaloa state. days following the date the loan was made and The Cononish mine is located near Tyndrum,
Drilling was designed to further expand the bears interest at the rate of 24% per annum. Scotland and has not been open for nearly 10
mineralization surrounding the Samaniego The loan is secured by certain patented years. Scotgold Resources expects to find at
pit and returned 6.81 g/t over 15 metres, mining claims, property, equipment, least 154,000 ounces of gold at the site, the
including 19.9 g/t over three metres. More inventory, leases (excluding the Sunshine newspaper said. “As soon as a drill rig we have
drilling at the Dos Amigos vein resulted in Mine lease) and other personal property. This been waiting for arrives we’ll be under way,”
13.63 g/t over six metres and mineralization strategic bridge loan provides Sterling Mining said Chris Sangster, chief executive of
for both started at the surface. Company with timely and non-dilutive Scotgold Resources. “We need to expand the
Chairman and chief executive officer of US working capital to meet short-term needs for resource a bit more to see exactly what we’ve
Gold, Robert McEwen, said these results, with long-term financing. got and then there are the requisite planning
other figures from the Palmarito Project, and other hurdles to go through.”
demonstrate the area’s potential. The Guardian said work at the mine will
“Our objective in Mexico is to quickly grow HUFFMAN MINE BOUGHT provide at least 60 jobs in the area for the next
the size of these projects in order to determine BY NAMEX eight years, even if only the minimum amount
the optimum rate of production,” he added. Namex Explorations has announced the of gold is found. John Burton, a farmer who
US Gold’s head office is located in Denver, purchase of a new mine in Ontario. The new owns the land the mine is in, said it would be
Colorado, but its operations are focused on mine is located on the Huffman property, a “relief ” to have the mine open again.
Nevada and Mexico. Mr McEwen is also the which covers 624 hectares and has four claims. Scotgold Resources expects 4,000 metres of
Company’s largest shareholder. Oliver Maki, chief geologist for Namex drilling to be conducted at the site across
Explorations, said: “The Huffman property three areas. [CJ]
RESULTS ANNOUNCED FOR
CENTRAL SUN
Central Sun Mining has announced results for
its Limon mine. Around 14 holes have been
drilled in the area, totalling 4,441 metres as
part of a 10,000-metre programme. Of the
deposits in the area, the Santa Pancha has a
reserve grade of around 5.6 g/t of gold and is
being mined at the 100 metre level. It has the
highest grade of gold in the Limon mine
region. Other significant results from the
Limon mine include 8.76 g/t of gold across
15.4 metres, 6.7 g/t of gold across 6.6 metres
and 7.43 g/t of gold across 3.8 metres.
Peter Tagliamonte, president and chief
executive officer of Central Sun Mining, said:
“With the ongoing exploration program we
are confident in our ability to define this new
discovery and to grow it into a considerably
larger production base for the Limon Mine.”
AUGUST 2008 CJ 49
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LI FE HAS
IT S M OMENT S ...
... MAK E T HE M
UNF O RG ETTA B L E
For details, write #132 on Free Info Page, page 120.
0KHE@ CKH@
OPANHEJC OEHRAN
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CJ Aug08TNews.qxd:Layout 1 7/22/08 1:34 PM Page 50
technews
“Jewellery companies face unprecedented challenges from increasing metal prices, higher inventory costs and increased
competition that require swift and sustainable improvements in operational efficiency and flexibility,” said Mike Bonelli,
president of Lead Time Technology. “With the introduction of Jewelry-Trak, jewellery companies now have a highly adaptive
software solution that can be implemented rapidly and within their budget. Key to our approach,” added Mike Bonelli, “is that
Jewelry-Trak works in parallel with a customer’s current enterprise systems like Microsoft Dynamics. It provides significant
additive functionality to optimize and manage operating processes based on Lean Six Sigma principles as well as collaborative
technology to complement already resident ERP/MRP systems.”
50 CJ AUGUST 2008
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technews
To incorporate “green” (lab-grown) or authentic gems into the piece, To find out more information about ArtCAM JewelSmith 2009, visit
ArtCAM JewelSmith simply takes the dimensions of both calibrated www.artcamjewelsmith.com. [CJ]
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CJ_Aug08_TechFeature.qxd:Layout 1 7/22/08 1:35 PM Page 52
techfeature
TECHNOLOGICALLY
Speaking
Roland DGA has become renowned for developing PRECISION AND CONTROL
technologically advanced solutions for the sign making, The software is a major component of the new system, which
engraving, automotive restyling, apparel decoration, grants designers a high level of control and exactness, two
CAD/CAM and, of course, jewellry design industries. characteristics intrinsic to good jewellery design. JewelStudio
Throughout its history, the Company has unveiled a series of software, which has been specifically developed for jewellry
products including GX series vinyl cutters, EGX series designers and goldsmiths, allows these craftsmen to use hand
engravers, MDX series milling machines, LPX series 3D laser drawn sketches to create precise three-dimensional electronic
scanners, and the MPX series photo impact printer. renderings of their designs.
Roland DGA is an industry leader in wide-format printing Users of this advanced software can also create original
and integrated print/cut technology, serving customers digital designs quickly and intuitively, with full creative
throughout North and South America with cutting-edge flexibility, by following simple step-by-step instructions. The
technologies and skilled dealers. Today, Roland DGA has software offers a host of features including GemStudio, an
expanded its award-winning JWX series with the JWX-30 extensive digital library of gemstones featuring varying
jewellry modelling solution. The state-of-the-art desktop mill shapes, sizes and types of gems that can be added to designs
comes complete with powerful jewellry design software, with a single click of the mouse.
allowing designers across the globe to transform their ideas
into highly precise wax models of rings, pendants, bracelets, Modifying and resizing designs is just as easy. The Automatic
brooches, earrings and cufflinks. Pave feature allows jewellers to choose the type and number
of gems to be placed automatically on the jewellry’s surface in
“The JWX-30 was designed to boost creativity,” said Neil a dimensionally accurate pattern for unprecedented results. If
Zdunkawicz, marketing manager for Roland DGA. “It quickly desired, designers can also manually place the stones for
mills a wide range of wax master models with intricate detail maximum creative flexibility. Once the design is completed,
and perfect symmetry. Bundled JewelStudio™ software the model can be displayed on-screen and rotated, giving
automates laborious tasks such as replicating left and right professionals and their clients a clear, accurate preview of the
earrings, and reducing model weight to meet client demands.” final product.
52 CJ AUGUST 2008
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techfeature
JWX-30 in action
IT’S ALL IN THE DETAILS process. Fortunately, the JWX-10 changed that. Since Klutts
The JWX-30 offers high-speed, automated production with a purchased the machine, he has enjoyed a dramatic increase in
powerful 30,000 rpm spindle and 100W DC Brushless motor. his milling productivity. “I can now do four jobs in a day,
The desktop mill also generates fine precision up to 0.00125 easily,” he says. “I can do things faster and easier with the
mm/step to produce every subtle nuance of jewellry CAD JWX-10 – and I can make anything: double flips, pendants,
designs. Finally, the JWX-30 comes with a unique, double- initial rings, bracelets, charms, you name it. It’s been like
edged tool that yields exceptional detail, giving designers the going from a bike to a Lamborghini.”
confidence and ability to create virtually any detail, no matter
how intricate. It is this kind of versatility and ease-of-use that has earned
the JWX-10 the AJM Innovation Award, a fact that Company
For all its impressive stats and figures, the JWX-30 would not members are quick to point out, just as they are eager to tell
be of much worth to designers if it did not actually deliver. the entire industry of what they can achieve with the next
And it certainly does. It joins a long line of industry JWX generation JWX-30. “The JWX-10 is targeted primarily to the
machines, including the JWX-10, which won the AJM custom retailer,” says David Olson, marketing manager for
Innovation Award in 2005. The Innovation Awards are part Roland ASD. “It comes with straightforward manuals, tools,
of, Thinking Ahead: The MJSA/AJM innovation Initiative, wax, and comprehensive tutorials that allow jewellers to
which is intended to facilitate and celebrate innovation in all begin milling jewelry within a few hours of opening the box.”
areas of the industry.
Like all Roland DGA products, JWX-30 is designed and
While winning awards is certainly nice, hearing what actual manufactured in a state-of-the-art, ISO-certified facility.
industry members have to say about products is even more Roland builds all products at its advanced Digital Factory one
important. “For flip and rotary milling, I could set up only at a time, by a single assembler – just like the fine pieces of
one or two jobs a day, max,” says Len Klutts, owner of Klutts jewellery designers create with the machines.
Jewelers in Morgan City, Louisiana. “It was very limiting and
frustrating.” Creating detailed wax jewellry models on his old For more information on the JWX-30 and other leading Roland
milling machine was a painstakingly slow and complicated DGA products, you can visit www.rolanddga.com/asd [CJ]
AUGUST 2008 CJ 53
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companyprofile
LEFT TO RIGHT: VP Sales, David Reuben; Executive VP, Nelson Reuben; President, Marvin Wenger; Gemologist, Meredith Wenger-Rudin; National Marketing Manager, Matthew Rudin
Family Business
Siffari has built a solid reputation on three principles – unique styling, exceptional quality
and unmatched service. A simple strategy, though when you consider the Company has
flourished for nearly 70 years while being governed by three generations, there is no doubt
that it is a solid business model..
B Y B RYAN S OROKA
P HOTOGRAPHY BY DAVIDE B AGNAROL
Some 67 years ago, in 1941, Larry Wenger sat in the explains, “My father was in the watch business with his
basement of a Toronto clothing store. His office consisted father in Montreal. In 1941, he decided to go on his own
of an underwear crate that he used as a makeshift desk, a and moved to Toronto.” Mr. Wenger started out selling
secondhand typewriter and a 40-watt light bulb. A modest watchstraps and soon after, went into the wholesale ring
beginning to be sure, especially since the company he business. “It wasn’t too long after that,” Marvin says
started, Siffari, has become one of the most renowned thoughtfully, “that manufacturers selling to wholesalers
jewellery manufacturers in Canada and beyond. started selling directly to retailers. My father saw the writing
As to how Siffari managed to get to where it is today, on the wall, and decided he needed to take the next step and
President and son of company founder, Marvin Wenger, go into manufacturing himself.”
54 CJ AUGUST 2008
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MANUFACTURING SUCCESS honesty.” At the same time, Marvin points out that, “we knew
Siffari’s foray into manufacturing its own pieces began with rings, we couldn’t make any mistakes, so we ensured that everything
and its success was built on three strong principles. “Styling, ran very smoothly.” Not an easy task, especially once you take
quality and service,” Marvin says emphatically. “Our designs are into account that Siffari opened thousands of accounts across
unique, we don’t cut corners and when we promise our customers the United States. While the Company does have a dedicated
the merchandise on a certain day, that’s when they get it.” sales force in the U.S. that sell to retailers across the country, all
The Company strives to maintain these ideals to this day, manufacturing is done right here in Canada.
and has subsequently built a strong reputation as trendsetters
when it comes to innovative designs. “I attend the Basel Fair LUXURY RULES
with our head designer to see the trends … that way, we’re able Many Canadian manufacturers have succumbed to the trend
to see exactly what’s happening [in the industry] when it’s of producing promotional pieces. Siffari has chosen not to go
happening.” Marvin is quick to point out that Siffari’s designs down that road, believing firmly that it would compromise the
are not copies of what is seen at the Basel Fair, but rather, strong reputation it has built over the years. “We’re one of
designs are inspired by these European fashions that tend to the few Canadian manufacturers that didn’t go into the
drive demand in North American markets. promotional end,” Marvin says, while adding, “Our line is
In 1989, Siffari’s business continued to swell as it entered the more mid-range [price wise].” Again, because of Siffari’s
U.S. market with its Crescendo division. This growth was built reputation, Marvin, along with other Company members, did
on the foundation laid by Marvin years not want to start cutting corners and
ago when he first started working for compete in low-end promotional
the family business. “I started out on merchandise. They were not alone.
the road as a sales rep and was given Many Siffari customers did not want
accounts we weren’t doing much “The consumer that them to either because they needed to
business with. After two years these walks into the deal with a company that, “prided itself
small accounts, along with new stores I on quality to satisfy their clientele,”
had opened, developed into a viable jewellery store that Marvin says.
territory,” Marvin states. “We then
hired a sales rep to cover this territory
they normally shop The bulk of Siffari’s products indeed
fall under the “mid-level” price point.
so I could come into the head office and at expects to see However, in May 2008, the Company
learn all aspects of the business.”
An admitted “hands on” president,
new merchandise… launched its high-end line, the Siffari
Signature Collection, which has quickly
Marvin keeps in constant contact with New merchandise proven to be every bit as successful as its
the other members of the Siffari other lines. “We believed this collection
management team, which includes his excites the consumer would be successful because of our past
brother-in-law/Executive VP, Nelson
Reuben, his nephew/VP Sales, David
and the sales staff.” experience with higher end product in
our line selling well.” Marvin points out.
Reuben, his daughter/gemologist The new line fits the Siffari President’s
Meredith Wenger-Rudin and his firm belief that there is a healthy market
son-in-law/National Marketing Manager, Matthew Rudin. for these more expensive pieces, and that many independent
Going back to Siffari’s U.S. presence, Marvin says “We didn’t retailers are not taking full advantage of the sales opportunities
know what type of competition we’d have on entering the U.S. that they bring. “What I saw was every independent jeweller in
market. We took the formula that made us a success in Canada, small towns can sell better pieces,” Marvin states with
and that same formula proved to be successful in the U.S.” conviction. “Some feel they can’t because they’ve never tried.”
Another critical factor that helped Siffari prosper in the highly In Marvin’s experience dealing with independent retailers,
competitive U.S. market was its unique designs and quality of the bulk of which are located in smaller towns in Canada and
product. “Our U.S. retailers repeatedly told us that our quality the U.S., some are under the impression that they cannot sell
was superior to most American manufacturers. And when it high-end because they do not have a client base that can
comes to service,” Marvin adds, “they [retailers] receive the afford such merchandise. “In all these towns… I saw there
merchandise when it has been promised.” were lawyers, doctors, accountants and other successful
“When Siffari entered the United States, we made it a point to businesspeople,” Marvin says.“People who are prepared to spend
tell the retailers that we were a Canadian company and that all our and want something different. The jeweller who only
manufacturing was done in Canada,” Marvin says. “ The retailers concentrates on promotional merchandise won’t make those
were open to dealing with a Canadian company because sales… the consumer will go somewhere else, even another town
Canada had a reputation for quality, straightforwardness and if they have to.” Marvin is not shy to point out to these retailers
AUGUST 2008 CJ 55
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companyprofile
that by focusing merely “We do business with chain operations in Canada, independent
on promotional items, retailers … a very wide spectrum.” The more prevalent retailer
they are missing out is the smaller or independent jeweller. “That’s the heart of our
on an entire market. business … in small towns across Canada and the U.S. … that’s
This is the market what both countries are made up of,” Marvin proclaims and
Marvin had in mind goes on to say, “The retailer trying to compete with Wal-Mart
when developing the and Costco … they’re having a difficult time. We don’t sell to
Siffari Signature the big box outlets so our customers won’t have to compete
Collection, which with them with Siffari products.”
includes a series of So what makes Siffari designs so sought after? Like the
original rings and Company’s business model, the answer is simple and to the
jewellery that retails point. “Our designs are different,” Marvin says with obvious
anywhere from pride. “When a consumer walks in and sees a beautiful piece of
$2,000-$5,000. “Our jewellery, they don’t know the price. First they have to fall in
customers are thrilled love with the design.” The quality of the piece is also of
that we developed this paramount importance, especially for the retailer. “If a stone
line because very few falls out, is cracked, or the item is not finished properly the
companies offer it,” consumer blames the retailer,” Marvin explains. “We stand
Marvin exclaims. And behind our products. If there’s a problem, we look after it.”
he is not merely Siffari’s products are also unique in many ways, as is its
referring to the approach to creating these ornate pieces. “We’ll design the
uniqueness of these shape of [coloured] stones ourselves and design the jewellery
products, but also their inherent value. “These beautifully around that,” he states.
designed pieces … all set with diamonds, look far more
expensive than what we’re selling them for,” he says. GENERATION NEXT
The current economic climate may be challenging, however,
MERCHANDISE AND MARKETING MIX Marvin is optimistic that things will turn around and that
Siffari’s current line includes over 2,000 rings and more Siffari will maintain its pursuit of introducing new, original
than 500 pendants and earrings. All of these custom-designed merchandise to the marketplace. “I think it [the economy] will
pieces fall into the engagement rings, ladies’/men’s wedding stabilize … calm down. No matter what conditions are, we’ll
bands, ladies’ stone rings, men’s rings or pendant and keep coming up with new and innovative styling,” he says
earring categories. without a doubt. “Coming up with new ideas, like our
Insofar as any marketing and advertising programs the Signature Collection, is what we plan to do. We design two lines
Company is engaged in, Marvin explains, “We offer co-op a year … spring and fall. When our sales reps go into stores, our
advertising in radio, television and print.” Siffari also provides customers expect to see a large amount of new styles.” Marvin
retailers with in-store marketing solutions such as brochures to is a firm proponent of exciting not only his customers, but
be distributed at store level, a free CD-Rom slide show, which their clientele as well. “The consumer that walks into the
retailers can play in their stores to display the wide variety of jewellery store that they normally shop at expects to see new
Siffari products, as well as POS materials such as counter merchandise,” he says. “New merchandise excites the consumer
displays and promotional giveaways to the consumer. “There and the sales staff.”
are over 2,000 items on our website,” Marvin says when After being in the industry for over 40 years, retailers both
broaching Siffari’s online presence. “Customers say they’re here and south of the border would be wise to follow Siffari’s
thrilled with it. It provides them with a great selling tool.” lead, as Marvin concludes, “We’re proud of what we’ve
Marvin says the Company receives many e-mails every day accomplished and what my father built. We’ve continued this
from consumers looking for Siffari products, who are promptly philosophy of creating unique, quality products that are backed
directed to their nearest retailer. by strong service.” Considering Siffari’s longevity and record
As to what kind of retailers carry Siffari designs, Marvin says, of success, few can argue with this logic. [CJ]
56 CJ AUGUST 2008
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bench
Ergonomically
Correct
How to make your workbench comfortable
while preventing aches and pains
B Y N IKKI Y EH
AUGUST 2008 CJ 57
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bench
BENCH
Bulletin
Board
At the Bench Live
The Manufacturing Jewelers and Suppliers of
America will present several “At the Bench
Live” seminars at the 2008 JCK Toronto show,
Aug. 11-12 in the North Building at the Metro
Toronto Convention Centre. All seminars will
take place on the show floor and will feature
hands on demonstrations and techniques by
Chris Ploof of Chris Ploof Designs and Linus
Drogs of Au Enterprises. Topics will include
casting and fabricating procedures for working
with palladium and making mokumé-gane
billets at the bench. For more information, to
view a full schedule or to register for the show,
visit www.jcktoronto.ca.
58 CJ AUGUST 2008
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bench
(for instance, if you do not feel any support layout with a do-it-yourself map of the workshop. Moreover, listen to your jewellers if they
from your waist to below your shoulder have any concerns about their workbenches – their feedback can help you increase efficiency
blades), you actually do not have the and safety. All in all, ergonomic practices in your shop will keep yourself, as well as your
appropriate back support from your chair. jewellers, healthy from drastic pains or injuries. [CJ]
BENCH TIME
Aside from your chair, it is necessary to figure
out a workbench height that’s right for you.
First, sit comfortably in your chair and keep
your back against the backrest. Look at your
bench pin – it should be positioned at the
centre of your breastbone. Take note that if
your bench is too short for your body, you will
end up working hunched over, even if your
chair has the proper support. In this situation,
try gluing wood to the bottom of each leg to
raise the bench’s height appropriately.
LIGHTEN UP
According to goldsmith educators, bench
jewellers need higher levels of light compared
to the requirements of woodworkers; thus,
the most appropriate lighting is imperative
to protect bench jewellers from eyestrain. A
tip you might want to mull over is to have
matte surfaces on your benchtop rather
than those that are too shiny – this can help
you avoid lights going directly into your eyes.
VISOR ADVICE
In the past, E-Bench has recommended
jewellers to adjust their visors, since wearing
them can cause major neck and back
injuries. For instance, bench jewellers have
a tendency to talk to others in the shop
without lifting up their magnifying visors;
as a result, they uncomfortably bend their
necks backwards. Jewellers are advised to
use a magnifier that sits in front of their
eyes; as a result, this can help you look
over the magnifier instead of tilting your
head back.
For details, write #135 on Free Info Page, page 120.
CONCLUSION
Another important tip to consider is taking
a break every 45 minutes or so – however,
the key to these breaks is to take them away
from your chair so that you can stretch
back into a neutral position. Also, keep
your production area organized; make sure
tools are reachable in rotating bins. If you
find that you are twisting your body to
reach for tools, consider re-organizing the
XXXCPNBKFXFMSZDPN ] 1 ] & CPNBDPSQ!UFMVTOFU
AUGUST 2008 CJ 59
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retail
Sink or
Swim:Industry veteran, Shane Decker, shows you
10 ways store owners can stay afloat in
choppy retail waters.
B Y S ONIA L OWE
60 CJ AUGUST 2008
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retail
Stick to what you know: According to Decker, the store Show and sell: According to Decker, 60 customers
owner’s job is to focus on business development, not annually buy a carat while waiting for a battery change.
changing watch batteries. Use your time to look at the
bigger picture. Maximize every opportunity to show and sell:
Turn a service visit into a sale.
Don’t micro-manage: Delegation is the key. Let others do
their jobs while you concentrate on yours. Go the extra mile: Decker states the advantage a retailer
has over internet-based jewellers; retaining customers
Make advertising count: Decker advises hiring a through relationship building.
marketing professional to manifest your vision. Segregate your
customers. Use age and demographic-specific campaigns and Deliver outstanding customer service: Always send
writers for different target audiences. a thank you card, and send reminders for compliment
service visits.
Play the numbers game: According to Decker, independent
stores have the highest closing ratio among jewellery retailers. Be presentable: Decker states that a customer assesses
Decker shows by installing a tracker on the door to monitor your store and makes a decision to buy in 30 seconds. An
customer activity, owners can estimate their closing ratio to entrepreneurial-minded consumer expects quality. If your store
determine if their store meets the standard or not. is old, re-model; if your location is not beneficial, move.
Move it or lose it: It costs retailers 20% annually to keep Be prepared: Decker claims that million-dollar diamonds
merchandise that is not selling. Increase revenue by stocking are sold every week in the U.S. The standard for diamonds
profitable inventory, marking up your merchandise appropriately today is raised to four karats and wealthy customers buy the
and remove what you do not sell. same day they shop, so stock your displays with higher end
jewellery to prepare for high-end clients.
Develop a team: You are only as good as your weakest link.
Decker emphasizes the importance of hiring a floor manager Be positive: Decker reassures that in a vulnerable market,
to building a strong sales force through motivation, leadership there is still money to be made if the independent retail is
and product training in every category. able to adapt and try new strategies. [CJ]
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mining
Canada:
Diamonds
in the
Rough
Photo courtesy of De Beers Canada.
D
world such as Sierra Leone and Angola. For many consumers,
as the 1960s, however, major kimberlite (an this makes a Canadian-mined diamond an ethical purchase.
intrusive igneous rock consisting largely of Canadian diamonds are also becoming somewhat of a fashion
peridotite and often containing diamonds) statement. Celebrities including Avril Lavigne are proud to
discoveries were not unearthed until the 1980s. In 1991, the wear Canadian diamonds for their quality and “cleanliness.”
first economic diamond deposit was discovered in the Lac de
Gras area of the Northwest Territories. Seven years later, our CANADIAN DIAMOND INDUSTRY
Home and Native Land became a diamond producer, when in Since those pioneering days not so long ago, Canada’s
October 1998, the Ekati Image of Diamonds mine opened diamond industry has surged to become a $2 billion entity.
some 300 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife. Just shy of one History leads us to believe that this fast rate of growth will
year later, the mine produced a respectable one million carats. continue, as 2003 Canadian diamond production totalled
approximately 11.6 million carats, while 2004 witnessed the
There is no doubt that Canada’s diamond production is on production of 12.6 million.
the rise. In fact, at the close of 2003, the country was the
world’s third-largest producer, accounting for 15% of the Canada’s second diamond mine, Diavik, started to produce in
world’s supply (Botswana and Russia are number one and January 2003. During its estimated 20-year life, Diavik’s average
two respectively). What is not so clear-cut are the advantages diamond production is expected to peak at six to eight million
carrying these Northern gemstones present to retailers. carats per year. To give you an idea of how significant this is,
To shed some light on the subject, consider how Canadian consider that this represents approximately 5% of the world’s
diamonds have gained a worldwide reputation for quality. total supply. Ekati’s 20-year projected life production, meanwhile,
Better still, they are “clean” in that they are not used to is forecasted to plateau at three to five million carats per year, or
finance terror, war and weapons as they are in parts of the 4% of the world’s total production by volume.
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mining
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mining
JERICHO
The Jericho Diamond Mine, located in Nunavut and
approximately 400 kilometres northeast of Yellowknife,
is wholly-owned by Tahera Diamond Corporation. The
mine represents Canada’s third, and Nunavut’s first, diamond
mine. Tahera’s diamond purchase and marketing agreement
with Tiffany & Co. ensures that the Company receives
competitive market prices for its Jericho diamonds.
Pursuant to the agreement, Tiffany will purchase or market
all of the diamond production from the mine.
GOVERNMENT CERTIFICATION
The claims for a diamond’s origins, authenticity and
quality can be suspect. In order to circumvent any
uncertainty, the Government Certified Canadian Diamond™
has been instituted.
64 CJ AUGUST 2008
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facevalue
Do You
How Much do
Want It To Be? B Y D UNCAN PARKER
he other day, when I was riding my bicycle with a friend,
T
differentials. This explanation makes sense, and if precipitous
I asked him how business was going. He told me that increases continue, we will soon see prices where they were
the diamond trade was very interesting, mentioning a before the tumble of the U.S. dollar. Another explanation we
client who was looking at a carat-and-a-half diamond of good have seen for upward spiral in some diamond prices is that
clarity and colour. The client told my friend that he thought the there actually hasn’t been an increase in diamond prices. That
Canadian dollar would probably go up a bit more in comparison explanation was in print, and obviously needed no further
to the United States dollar, so he would hold off for a few days explanation. Raising the cost 19% is not a price increase, and
and try to make a few points on the exchange rate. My friend, if you do not understand that, then you are as clueless as me.
slowing his pace on his bicycle just a little, then said, “the next
day we saw the big increase.” This refers to the 19% hike that The other speculation in the industry is that there is a certain
came in a single day for larger diamonds of better quality. amount of profit taking. The discretionary income of the
average person is lower than it has ever been. Individuals
One rationale that we have received for the major diamond don’t have money to buy luxury products, such as diamonds,
price increases is that it is just a correction due to the currency when they are making fiscal decisions about how much less
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facevalue
It makes sense to write appraisals with explanations that any values given are
reflective of the value for the items at the specific date at which the appraisal
they can travel this year, or if they drove, was written. We cannot be responsible for anticipating unexpected changes in
whether they could even afford to spend the market.
$100 to fill the tank. How does this translate
to profit taking? The lower qualities and
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marketwatch
TOP 100
MEN’S JEWELLERY ITEMS
Men’s jewellery has always been regarded, within the trade, as a niche market.
Over time though, niches grow and develop and our list reflects
the past and present with a nod towards the future.
B Y R OBIN G AMBHIR
An intriguing way of looking at this list is as representative of demographics and generational tastes. So at the top,
we have modern styles using white metals in general and, in the case of the Edward Mirell line from Intermerge, an
alternate material-like titanium. They are at the top of the list because they reflect the tastes of men who are in their
peak jewellery purchasing years. As you can see, though, there are variations (there are some more traditional styles
in yellow metal in the first 25), which are present because there are regional differences in tastes from province to
province; in some cases, the differences are simply between rural and urban.
In upcoming editions of Market Watch, we will be reporting trends and top 10 lists geographically. OpenBlue
tracks where consumers come from while they are shopping its network of retailers’ sites. Using this kind of data to
help you deploy the right product into the right market is called Geomarketing and, for jewellery, it is an entirely
new area. When you are catering to niche markets, such as men’s jewellery, the margin for error is slim. Knowing
what consumers in each market are shopping for can help you avoid costly mistakes.
Rank 1 Rank 7
Intermerge Canada Inc. Cadman Manufacturing
R002A-D 5584M_white_gold
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings
Rank 2 Rank 8
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
5766M 5758M
category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings
Rank 3 Rank 9
Intermerge Canada Inc. Cadman Manufacturing
R738F CB84M
category: Men's Jewellery category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 4 Rank 10
Intermerge Canada Inc. Cadman Manufacturing
R137D-D 5768M
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings
Rank 5 Rank 11
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
5762M C57D
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 6 Rank 12
Intermerge Canada Inc. Intermerge Canada Inc.
R947C N078D-D
category: Men's Jewellery category: Men's Jewellery
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marketwatch
Rank 13 Rank 24
Intermerge Canada Inc. Cadman Manufacturing
B941C 1116
category: Men's Jewellery:Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 14 Rank 25
Cadman Manufacturing Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
5764M N6142
category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 15 Rank 26
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
5586M 5756M
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 16 Rank 27
Debra Sawatzky Estate Jewellery Intermerge Canada Inc.
DJS000218 B030A
category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 17 Rank 28
JSN Jewellery Intermerge Canada Inc.
5660OXCuff N092A
category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks category: Men's Jewellery
Rank 18 Rank 29
Intermerge Canada Inc. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
B101D CJG-N2203
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 19 Rank 30
Intermerge Canada Inc. Borra
B085A FR-121A/7
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Rings
Rank 20 Rank 31
Intermerge Canada Inc. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N044F N3820
category: Men's Jewellery category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 21 Rank 32
Cadman Manufacturing Debra Sawatzky Estate Jewellery
5584M DJS000222
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery
Rank 22 Rank 33
Intermerge Canada Inc. Debra Sawatzky Estate Jewellery
B116A DJS000213
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 23 Rank 34
Basal Jewellery IBB International Ltd.
RB2027 2402.02.111
category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Gemstone Rings
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marketwatch
Rank 35 Rank 46
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N6136 N2211
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 36 Rank 47
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Cadman Manufacturing
N6134 W2
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Watch Chains
Rank 37 Rank 48
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N3804 N3819
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 38 Rank 49
Cadman Manufacturing Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
TC-G80 N6905
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Bars
Rank 39 Rank 50
Tecimer Jewellery Limited Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N3802 N6135
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 40 Rank 51
Borra Cadman Manufacturing
FR-32B MC28
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Money Clips
Rank 41 Rank 52
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N3807 N7613
category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 42 Rank 53
Corona Jewellery Cadman Manufacturing
R6711-10 CB82
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 43 Rank 54
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Cadman Manufacturing
N7620 TC-18F
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Money Clips category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains
Rank 44 Rank 55
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N7618 N6140
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Money Clips category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 45 Rank 56
Cadman Manufacturing Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
MC27 N3812
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Money Clips category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
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Rank 57 Rank 68
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N3803 N3814
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 58 Rank 69
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
TC-F60 TC-20F
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains
Rank 59 Rank 70
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Borra
N6906 FR-125A
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Bars category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 60 Rank 71
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Borra
N3806 FR-27A
category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks category: Men's Jewellery: Diamond Rings
Rank 61 Rank 72
SteelX Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
8067 N3805
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 62 Rank 73
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Mirage Creations
N6132 PR959
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 63 Rank 74
Cadman Manufacturing Mirage Creations
35DT PR1393
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 64 Rank 75
Cadman Manufacturing Borra
307T-TieTac FR-119C
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: TieTacks category:Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 65 Rank 76
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Cadman Manufacturing
N6129 304T-TicTac
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks
Rank 66 Rank 77
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Mirage Creations
N3816 PR1391
category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 67 Rank 78
Cadman Manufacturing Mirage Creations
TC-Golf PR367
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
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Rank 79 Rank 90
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
433 -TieTack 302 -TieTack
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks
Rank 80 Rank 91
Mirage Creations Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
PR1390 N6139
category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 81 Rank 92
Mirage Creations JSN Jewellery
PR470 5660OXP
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery
Rank 82 Rank 93
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Mirage Creations
N2202 PR394
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings
Rank 83 Rank 94
Cadman Manufacturing Cadman Manufacturing
TC-16F 420 -TieTack
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Chains category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: TieTacks
Rank 84 Rank 95
Cadman Manufacturing Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
309T-TieTack N6137
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Signet Rings
Rank 85 Rank 96
Tecimer Jewellery Ltd. Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
N3818 N3809
category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 86 Rank 97
Mirage Creations Mirage Creations
PRM64 PR1358
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Cufflinks
Rank 87 Rank 98
Cadman Manufacturing Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
425-TieTack N3801
category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Tacks category: Men's Jewellery: Bracelets
Rank 88 Rank 99
Borra Tecimer Jewellery Ltd.
FR-124B/2P N6901
category: Men's Jewellery: Rings: Diamond Rings category: Men's Jewellery: Accessories: Tie Bars
©2008 OpenBlue Networks Inc. and Canadian Jeweller All Rights Reserved
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coverstory
Reputation
ina Blue
Box
Birks & Mayors
revitalizes two
century-old businesses.
B Y S ARAH B. H OOD
A cannot replace a century-old reputation for quality. However, even the most respected
brand can falter. Back in the ‘90s, the forecast was cloudy for iconic Canadian jeweller,
Birks. Now, under new management and wedded to a venerable southern U.S. chain, its prospects
are looking better than ever. The obvious question is, what has been the Birks & Mayors Inc.
strategy for success? The answer, in spite of the unstable North American economy, is retaining a
steadfast focus on the high-end market.
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coverstory
Thomas Andruskevich,
President & Chief Executive
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Destinee Suite
A Rich History
Birks was born as a family business in 1879 when silversmith, Henry From 1994 to 1996, Andruskevich worked as President and CEO for the
Birks, opened a shop on St. James Street in Montreal, QC. After three of clothing retailer Mondi of America. However, “I didn’t really enjoy the
his sons joined the Company, its name was formally changed in 1893 to fashion industry as much as jewellery, and I didn’t agree with some of the
Henry Birks and Sons. The following year, the business moved to a new directions the company was trying to go,” he explains.“I responded to a
location located on Phillips Square, which still houses the head office call from a search firm for Birks. It was struggling; it was not doing well.
over 100 years later. It was losing a lot of money, and the first thing we needed was to get a new
bank loan, which we did, and we needed to get a strategic consulting
Throughout the 20th century, Birks grew, especially in the years following company in.”
WWII, and its signature blue box became a Canadian icon synonymous
with elegant special-occasion gift-giving. By the early 1990s, the Boston Consulting Group (BCG) was brought in to work with Birks’
Company boasted over 200 stores in Canada and the United States. It management to create a new strategic plan. Their findings confirmed
was still facing difficult financial times, though, in part due to significant Andruskevich’s gut feelings. “My instinct in some of the strategic
debt accrued during a family buy-out. This spurred the 1993 sale of premises that I had developed in talking with members of the Birks’
Birks to Regaluxe Investment (then known as Borgosesia Acquisitions management team, along with knowing some of Birks’ history and
Corporation). In 2006, Regaluxe was acquired through a merger with actually talking with Birks family members − especially Barry Birks,my dear
Iniziativa S.A. Today, although five generations of the Birks family have friend − told me that we had to take the Company back up-market,”he says.
been involved in running the business, a company known as The Goldfish
Trust owns or controls 68.6% of its voting shares; these are owned by Andruskevich recalls having walked into a Birks retail outlet in the 1990s
Montrovest BV, the parent company of Iniziativa SA and Montrolux SA. when he was still with Tiffany’s. “I saw everything from costume
jewellery to $50,000 necklaces. The extremes were so great I just
It seems as though these uncertain times are over, as things have been couldn’t understand what the focus was,” he says. “It made no sense to
looking much more positive for Birks since the change in ownership. In me that we were selling costume jewellery, and there was a large, but
1996, Thomas A. Andruskevich joined the Company as President and faltering, gift business. I really felt that we needed to focus our attention
Chief Executive Officer. He had previously served as Senior Vice on fine jewellery. The research pretty much bore that out to me.”
President and CFO, then Executive Vice President of International &
Trade for Tiffany & Co. from 1982 to 1994. According to Andruskevich The next step was to reconfigure the product offerings to match the new
(now 57), he entered the jewellery business “by accident. I started out strategicdirection.“IthinkBirkshadlostitswayforawhile.Itwasnotfocused,
my career in public accounting, and one of my contacts invited me to and that was what we set out to do: to refocus and reassert our merchandise
join Avon in about 1978. After about four years, I was asked to go over to offerings in a manner that was much more high-end.If we were going to be in
Tiffany, which Avon had acquired.” the timepiece business, we only wanted to sell deluxe Swiss timepieces.
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1 2
If we were going to sell jewellery,it should be 18-karat gold and diamonds,” symbol “BMJ.” The Company’s acquisition strategy continued in
says Andruskevich. Now, Birks carries its own proprietary watch line, as November of 2007, when it acquired Brinkhaus, a 30-year-old luxury
well as timepieces by Cartier, Baume & Mercier, Omega, Tag Heuer, Jaeger jeweller with locations in Calgary and Vancouver.
Le Coultre, Gucci, Concorde, Rado, Longines, Mont Blanc and Tissot. Its
in-house signature jewellery lines include Toni Cavelti, Jose Hess, “Birks and Mayors are very similar companies,” Andruskevich
Michele della Valle and Esty, alongside exclusive designer jewellery from elaborates.“Mayors will be celebrating its 100th anniversary in 2010. We
Roberto Coin, Van Cleef & Arpels, H. Stern, Kwiat and Ladyheart. are able to fulfill the vision and mission to all three of these brands
because each carries a great heritage and legacy, and their reputations
Andruskevich admits the consultants did reveal a few details that with their clients, and the performance and execution against those
surprised him.“I learned that our service business was very important, reputations is quite special.”
not only from a revenue standpoint, but from a traffic standpoint.
Oddly enough, some people will come in to buy merchandise, but By 2007, Birks & Mayors seemed to be on a roll. The Mayors brand was
there are some who just come in to have their products serviced,” he recognized in the U.S. with the South Florida Journal Business of the
says. “When someone entrusts something that’s very near and dear to Year Award and the Greater Miami Chamber of Commerce "Good to
them to you to repair it, it does create a very special relationship with Great Award.” Andruskevich was named a Power Player by Florida
that individual.” International Magazine. Meanwhile, back in Canada, Birks was awarded
the designation as Official Supplier of Jewellery for the 2010 Olympic
By 1998, Birks refocused its strategy and embarked on a campaign of Winter Games in Vancouver.
store remodelling and cautious expansion.“What we basically tried to do
was to bring the Company back to its roots: that really sums up our “The Olympic jewellery is very exciting,” says Andruskevich. “They will
strategy,” Andruskevich clarifies. “We attract very, very affluent clients also be available through our website and our corporate sales division,
who can probably afford to buy anything that they care to buy, and I because what better way is there to celebrate the Olympics than by
think we also satisfy someone of more modest means who may want to buying a piece of Olympic jewellery for your client?”
get a special gift for a very special someone, regardless of price.”
He points out that the Company had to demonstrate a high degree of
In 2002, Birks acquired the U.S. fine jewellery retailer Mayors, a nearly corporate environmental and social responsibility to win the Olympic
century-old company with a solid reputation that was going through contract.“We are very sensitive to our role in corporate sustainability.We
an unsuccessful expansion and experiencing significant losses at the were one of the first companies to be involved in the Canadian Boreal
time. In 2005, Birks & Mayors became a publicly held Canadian Initiative. We only offer conflict-free diamonds, and those two initiatives
corporation trading on the American Stock Exchange under the were very important when it came to being approved for the Olympic Games.”
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Also, the Olympic Committee audited Birks & Mayors factories in Rhode The emphasis on raising the Birks profile does not mean that the
Island and Montreal. “We received the highest grade possible. With Mayors brand is being phased out anytime soon.“For the time being the
Montreal, we were told it was the best grade ever given for a first-time- research has showed that we have a great deal of equity in the Mayors
audited company,” he exclaims proudly. “Last but not least, our recent brand, and it would probably be ill advised if we did not keep that equity
partnership with Botswana Diamonds further strengthened our position and leverage it for our benefit,” says Andruskevich.“Over time, as we try
in the global marketplace as a leader among ethical and socially responsible to grow the Birks name, I think we’ll have to see. In the short term, we’ve
companies.” (He refers to a June 2008 announcement that Birks & made a decision to operate two separate regional brands.”
Mayors was awarded exclusive distributorship of Botswana Diamonds in
North America.) Andruskevich is optimistic not only about his company, but also about
the industry as a whole.“I’ve been in the jewellery business for 25 years.
Birks & Mayors now operates 37 Birks retail stores, as well as two I believe it will remain healthy, but it will be different. I think anything
operating under the Brinkhaus brand name and 31 Mayors stores in that’s very unique, very special, very high-end, will continue to do well.
Florida and Atlanta, GA,with corporate offices in Montreal and Tamarac, That was evident last year; high-end, complicated watches did well.
Florida. Jewellery, including giftware, repair and custom design services, High-end diamonds seem to be doing well all over the world.”
represents approximately 60% of sales revenues, with timepieces making
up the balance. So far, the marriage of brands seems to be a happy one: Nonetheless, he predicts that some business operators will face tough
between 2005 and 2007, net sales rose from $239.3 million to a record decisions over the next few years. “What I saw over the last holiday
$294.3 million, only partly due to the strong Canadian dollar. Gross season was the most precipitous drop in consumer confidence and
profit rose from $109.3 million to $142.3 million, with a rise in the gross spending on luxury goods that I’ve seen in a long time. It was a little scary
profit margin from 45.5% to 48.3%. to see malls in Florida empty − and I mean empty − a couple of weeks
before Christmas. We’ve seen signals that even some very affluent
Birks & Mayors is currently looking to add additional businesses to its consumers are thinking twice about making important purchases that
already impressive portfolio. “We’ve made it very clear that one of our they can afford,” he says.
strategies is to continue to make acquisitions, both retail and product
brand, but our primary strategy is to develop the Birks brand − both the “While I believe in the fundamentals of the jewellery industry in the
product and the retail − and we plan to do that both in the U.S. and long run, I think there will be more consolidation: the strong brands will
internationally,” says Andruskevich. Birks & Mayors is targeting be stronger and the weaker brands will fall,” Andruskevich forecasts.
“companies that either are leaders in their marketplace or are about to “That’s unfortunate,but I think we’re positioned well; I think it somewhat
become leaders, and with an acceptable rate of return. We will also look plays into our strategy of continuing to grow our brand.” So while the
at international opportunities, both retail opportunities and product luxury market continues to perform as strongly as it has over the past
brands. The trick is to find the right match in terms of positioning, few seasons, there’s every reason to expect that the blue Birks box will
culture, place in the marketplace and good value.” continue to be a sign of success. [CJ]
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feature
V I V A
Las Vegas
Despite the current economic state, this year’s JCK Las Vegas
was budding with inspiration.
B Y N IKKI Y EH
Olivier Felic
Bijou Inox io,
George Cangul of Publisher of
Canadian Je
weller,
with IceLink
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feature
Master Design
rro
Bianca Fe
Brent Trep
pe
of Ben Mos l, CEO & President
s, with Oliv
ier Felicio
PAGE 82
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feature
Jay Camer
on
of Wittnau
er
Watches were the talk of the event, with exhibitors five-day show to launch into American markets, including
dominating 10% of the show floor. Attendees came to the Obaku, Orient, Kadloo, Monroa, D.Factory, Azimuth,
realization of the changing watch market with Hall of Time, Morellato, Bello & Preciso and Brosway. Nevertheless,
a pavilion that exhibited a large selection of timepieces from many U.S. watch brands also unveiled their latest creations
world-renowned names, highlighting how personal watch on the show floor, including E. Gluck, which introduced
styles shift along with consumer lifestyles. Foreign watches its two new fashion watch brands, Lucy Brand and
also took centre stage as their brands used the annual Badgley Mischka.
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feature
arnegin,
s, Robert Z
Daniel Park Je wel le ry Center
or ld
ajian of W
William Boy
Glen Rein
ecke and
Jody Chri
stian
of Pando
ra.
Jon Philips of
BHP Billiton
On a side note, many brands, such as Casio, Vabene, Swiss metal. According to Platinum Guild International, the
Army, Techno-Marine and EganaGoldfpeil USA, announced precious metal was featured heavily in wedding rings and
the upgrading of their quality and pricing to attract fashion accessories. Among the 35 platinum stands was a
consumers with higher incomes. kiosk demonstrating the metal’s uses in retailer signage,
which received 150 orders at the show. PGI also held
Last but not least, platinum shined at its brightest during “power hours” to allow retailer attendees and exhibitors to
the annual event, illustrating the popularity of the gorgeous network and discuss sales and marketing strategies. [CJ]
AUGUST 2008 CJ 83
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feature
r a
B ANDn d
DELIVER
O
ne of the unfortunate truths of modern business, iterations have gained their elite status by sticking to two
the luxury market withstanding, is there is almost simple, yet profound, principles – consistency and discipline.
nothing your competitors cannot duplicate. If you
have a breakthrough idea, you can bet somebody So how do you, the retailer, become a brand champion? First,
will copy it, and perhaps even improve upon it or sell for a it is vital to arrive at an accurate definition of what a brand
lower price. The question then begs, “ What competitive edge really is. This might sound like a simple endeavor, though
do you have to offer that cannot be copied by anyone else?” when you consider even marketing professionals do not have
The answer? Your brand. a clear-cut answer, you can start to see it is anything but easy.
With that being said, here are some popular descriptions of
As a jewellery retailer, you are part of an industry that is what a brand might be:
currently in the throes of a declining economy. Unfortunately,
the luxury market is one that is hit the hardest during these • A name, sign or symbol used to identify items or services
times, which makes branding all the more crucial. Creating a of the seller(s) and to differentiate them from goods
strong brand builds mindshare, the process of fostering of competitors.
favourable attitudes toward your store, and it is one of the • A promise – by identifying and authenticating a product or
strongest competitive advantages imaginable. As a result, service it delivers a pledge of satisfaction and quality.
your business will be top-of-mind with customers when they • A set of assets (or liabilities) linked to a brand’s name and
think of your product category. symbol that adds to (or subtracts from) the value provided by
a product or ser vice.
The advertising and marketing “gurus” of the world have
done a marvelous job creating the perception that only they Some compelling thoughts, though none hit the mark dead
– the experts – can create, maintain and grow a brand. This on. Appreciating a brand is not so much of a who or what,
is simply not true. There is no denying that there are some but more of a “feeling”-the best definition by far is:
brilliant, creative, strategic promotional minds that are
indeed exceptional at brand creation. However, developing a “A BRAND IS A COLLECTION OF PERCEPTIONS IN THE
strong brand is by no means rocket science, as the outstanding MIND OF THE CONSUMER.”
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This definition gives insight into the fact that a brand is very LIVING THE BRAND
different from a product or service – it is intangible and exists Delivering a brand promise is the underlying factor that
in the consumer consciousness. It also sheds light on brand determines your brand’s success. This means that every
loyalty, and how different consumers have different perceptions person in your organization needs to live the brand – from
of a product or service, which places them at disparate points ownership to sales staff. It is the workforce that translates
on the Loyalty Ladder (see figure below). strategy into reality, interacts with your customers and
determines the brand. Every point of brand interaction needs
Finally, this characterization clarifies how to build a brand, to deliver a consistent and coherent message about your
which is constructed not only via effective communications corporate identity. Every action needs to reinforce, support
or appealing logos, but also the total experience that it offers. or enhance the brand. A great brand is one that lives its values.
Here is a terrific story that will give you a firm grasp of what
THE LOYALTY LADDER
Brand Insistence Advocate “living the brand” is all about. Back in the late 50’s, the
pioneering days of NASA, a reporter was sent to do a story on
the fledgling space program. She arrived at the first headquarters
Repeat Purchases Client located in Washington, DC, searching for the offices where
she would conduct her interview. As she continued to
Trialist Customer wander, she spotted a custodian who was polishing the floor.
She approached the man and asked him where she could find
the offices. He pointed her in the right direction, and as she
Not Yet Purchased Prospect
turned to leave, she paused to ask, “ What do you do here?”
The man stepped back and without hesitation said,
“We put people on the moon.” The custodian did not
The Loyalty Ladder conveys the idea that consumers can be moved along a
continuum of loyalty using a number of integrated marketing communications say, “I polish floors,” or, “I empty garbage cans.” Rather, he
techniques. Essentially, consumers become loyal to a brand that has meaning encapsulated the essence of living his company’s brand.
to them in relation to a product, service, solution or experience.*
* Learn Marketing, Ladder of Customer Loyalty, 2003.
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feature
While his specific duties may have included polishing and attitudes. As a jewellery retailer, though, this probably is not
cleaning, he was playing a part just like everyone else at the case, which makes creating a strong brand even more vital.
NASA – from the rocket scientists to the astronauts, all were While your products and services have been in existence
serving a role that fulfilled the objective of the bottom line. You for a while and you have direct competition, you need to
can easily translate this to your own business. Salespeople establish a brand identity that will impact consumer choice.
don’t merely sell rings and pendants. Managers don’t just Brand identity consists of:
manage. These are simply functions that work towards a
common goal. PRICING: a component of value; higher prices may
be interpreted as higher quality to the consumers and
Now that we have arrived at a definition of what a brand is, lower prices may suggest decreased value. This is one of
the question begs, how do you create one? Like so many other the most important aspects of any brand, as it is the one
advertising and marketing pursuits, there is no single answer tangible characteristic that your customers will come to
to this question. Though there are many who believe that the identify with.
process all begins with establishing what is commonly DISTRIBUTION AND AVAILABILITY: limited distribution of a
referred to as the brand essence (see graph below) – the one product or service may imply exclusivity to discerning consumers.
word that describes what your brand is all about (one word QUALITY: which impacts satisfaction; obviously, higher
is best, though some have extended it to a few). Two great quality will translate to more satisfied customers who regularly
examples of brand essence are Coca-Cola (Refreshing) and purchase your offerings.
Pepsi (Youth). Here you can see two products that are PRESENCE: prominence in both the paid and unpaid
virtually identical, yet their brands stand for something media; products or services with a high-profile market
completely different. This is highly motivating for all presence lead to brand recognition and increased sales.
jewellery retailers, as it gives you a very good idea of how Conversely, niche, hard-to-find products also give your
differentiating yourself from a seemingly identical competitor brand an allure, as customers will relate these high-quality
is by no means unattainable. This is your jumping-off point items and their availability with your store.
– where you can begin the process of developing your own AWARENESS: top-of-mind awareness, residual awareness
brand, and in the process, distinguishing yourself from your understanding and recognition, are directly related to presence;
competitors and remaining in the forefront of your the higher your offering’s awareness, the better your sales
customers’ collective thoughts. results will be.
REPUTATION: enduring the public opinion of brand
character, which is built over time and difficult to change
Vision, Mission
once established.
& Values
IMAGE: perceptions of brand traits or prototypical buyers;
BRAND ESSENCE
Your foundation
and guiding principles often represented by qualities the consumer relates to. Similar
to reputation, image is difficult to change once it’s established.
BRAND BENEFITS: consumers may equate certain positive and
Positioning
ESSENCE The market negative consequences with the use of your products or
Personality space you services; these may be warranted or unwarranted.
What you want to
look like occupy POSITIONING SALIENCE: differentiation from the
competition, which is established by combining all of your
brand’s elements.
PREFERENCE: a predisposition to buy, which is displayed
by brand-loyal consumers.
The Brand Essence is a distillation of the brand identity and an encapsulation of SHARE OF THE MARKET: increased market share is a direct
the brand values. These values form the core of the brand’s identity, what your result of a successful branding campaign.
business believes in, the guiding ethos in which activities and behaviour can be
measured against; they are intrinsic to your business and are used as the
CONSUMER COMMITMENT: loyalty is built through long-
framework for communications, culture and the outward facing personality.* term branding and close consumer contact.
* The Language of Branding: ‘Brand Essence,’ Branding Strategy Insider, 2008.
Now that the many aspects of brand identity have been
clarified, take your time to consider all of the above. During
BRAND IDENTITY this process, receive feedback from as many of your staff
If your product or service is new or distinctive, branding is as possible; after all – these are the individuals living
certainly made easier. Since there are no pre-existing biases, your brand and communicating its virtues to your
it will be much more straightforward to manipulate customer esteemed customers.
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Brand
performance
2 Category
understanding
3
4 5
BRAND
INDETITY
Marketing mix Segmentation
4 Positioning
Tangibles
A tagline (or slogan or motto) is a highly effective marketing
tactic that allows a company to briefly define either its
80 Other Intangibles
tangible/pragmatic product or service (e.g. the California
Milk Processor Board’s “Got Milk?”) or the intangible/
Brand
60 emotional benefit of its brand (e.g. AT&T’s “Reach Out and
Touch Someone”).
40
There are no clear-cut rules for developing a memorable
20 tagline. In fact, the best way to go about it is to consult your
brand essence, which again, is the one word that best defines
0
your brand, and build it from there. So, if Jane’s Fine
1950s 1970s 1990s 2010 Jewellery came to the conclusion that its brand essence was
Branding is definitely the wave of the future. As competition grows “affordable opulence,” it might consider a pragmatic tagline
increasingly fierce, jewellery retailers must continue to develop their brands such as, “Luxury You Can Afford.” Or, if a more emotional
in order to establish a strong, lasting relationship with customers.
Because a company name is a first point of contact, creating a strong approach was deemed more fitting (and since purchasing
emotional connection between the name and the company’s virtues jewellery is a highly emotional endeavour), Jane’s tagline
is paramount to maintaining a healthy bottom line.
could be, “Opulence Awaits.”
AUGUST 2008 CJ 87
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gemstonetrends
Bright
Shades of
Dark
88 CJ AUGUST 2008
Hues
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gemstonetrends
Gorgeous gems in bright pinks, yellows and oranges have To add, Ukranian jewellery has been frequent in international
been the hottest rage this summer, but expect a turnaround displays, which is a trend that has lasted for the past year. In
with chocolate, cocoa hues for this upcoming season. August 2007, around 4,300 companies and entrepreneurs
Undoubtedly, other retailers are taking notice of this sold or produced jewellery from Ukraine. This actually
movement, including Na’im Vojdani, manager of Heaven makes sense, as a specialized amber treatment plant was built
Jewellers, based in Brampton, Ontario. “Darker stones seem in 1998 in Rosvo, and was calculated at producing 3.5 tonnes
to be the trend,” claims Mr. Vojdani, adding that “I definitely of amber annually.
see green tourmaline as a stone to look out for. Mystic topaz
and generally semi-precious stones available in medium to
large sizes are certainly dominating the market for ladies’
rings (with, of course, the exception of engagement rings).”
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gemstonetrends
On a further note, make sure you and your staff are not only
aware of the identification, technical details and grading of
coloured gems, but also the story behind their sources.
Encourage your staff members to visit seminars or job shadow
alongside industry educators. For example, in 2003, members tastes as possible. What we are proud of, and what puts us
of the GIA Course Development tagged along mine trips with ahead of our competitors, is our focus on customer service and
the ICA to Brazil, Columbia, East Africa and India. Overall, satisfaction,” says Vojdani.“Because we are a smaller business, we
going beyond basic education draws customers into the have the ability to offer much more personal and intimate
awe-inspiring journey of your gems. service with our clientele. As far as gemstone merchandising is
concerned, paying attention to and supplying trends to our
Above all, listen to your customers and understand what they customers is the most we can do to [promote] what is most
are seeking. “We [Heaven Jewellers] try to cater to as many sought after in the current market.” [CJ]
HEADLINES
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starwatch
Platinum
Prevails Celebrities can’t deny platinum on the red carpet. And even
if they could, why would they? The precious metal makes
the brightest starlet’s diamonds and gemstones sparkle like
nothing else, which is why it is no surprise that some of
Hollywood’s most notable characters were spotted flashing
these platinum masterpieces.
GET GORGEOUS
Anne Hathaway, known for her roles in The
Princess Diaries and Ella Enchanted, let her
platinum shine at the Los Angeles
premiere of her film, Get Smart, on
June 16th. Anne selected a pair of
darkened platinum, diamond and
sapphire drop earrings and a platinum
ring with moonstones and sapphires.
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starwatch
I
SEXY STYLES
The cast of Sex and the City
strutted their platinum
jewellery during their movie
premieres. Sarah Jessica for vintage rings, such as Christina Aguilera, which work best
Parker glowed in a vintage with platinum, palladium or white gold, tend to have a more
platinum and 75-carat traditional streak than the fashion-conscious girls who choose
diamond cuff bracelet fancy-shaped rings.
by Fred Leighton at the
world premiere in PLATINUM PROPOSAL
London on May Ellen Degeneres gave her significant other, Portia de Rossi, a
12th. In New York on platinum engagement ring by Neil Lane. Portia was spotted
May 24th, Kristin Davis wearing the ring on the red carpet at the 35th Annual Daytime
shimmered in a vintage platinum Emmy Awards. The sparkling piece included a marquis cut
bracelet and drop earrings, and a platinum centre diamond surrounded by pink diamonds, all set in
and 24-carat diamond ring. Cynthia Nixon platinum. Portia joins A-listers including Jessica Alba, Fergie,
chose platinum and 12-carat diamond Ashlee Simpson and Carmen Electra, who are saying “I Do” in
earrings, a platinum and 16-carat diamond platinum. Most brides prefer a platinum engagement/wedding
and ruby ring, as well as a platinum and ring because it is a naturally white metal, so it will maximize
diamond bracelet. the brilliance of their diamonds.
AUGUST 2008 CJ 93
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The
Spider Web’s
Catch
Budapest, Hungary’s capital, is the country’s largest city
and serves as its principal political, cultural, commercial,
industry/industrial and transportation centre. Considered
an important hub in Central Europe, what the city is not
known for is producing diamonds, pearls and other
precious gemstones, though that is changing.
B Y B ARBARA K INGSTONE
94 CJ A U G U S T 2008
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2.
1.
The Hungarian-born goldsmith, who designs in platinum and white Located in the fashionable Fashion Street (Haris koz 6) in central
and yellow gold in 14K, 18K and 22K gold (he also has a smaller Budapest, the first impression entering the small boutique is that it
segment for silver), utilizes the “mesh technique” when designing his seems so much larger than reality, so clever is the loft-like
patented masterpieces. Imagine a fine spider web, but in gold and architectural design by Varga. The boutique appears to be somewhat
platinum shaped into various airy forms – oval, round, oblong just to out of place in the midst of the other usual non-inspiring, formula-
name a few. Often, these spined-looking cobwebs have captured South styled stores, though it is undeniably a breath of fresh air from the
Sea and Tahitian black pearls or rare coloured gemstones and other conventional interiors. Here is a stainless steel circular open
diamonds varying in size and shape. Whatever the piece, it is obvious staircase, which leads to the private salons filled with Varga’s modern
his inspiration definitely comes from nature. and pricier designs that welcome visitors with an unexpected burst of
colour. The unique and whimsical seating arrangement set under a
For almost 40 years, Varga’s studio and workshop has evolved and large crystal chandelier is amusing in fuchsia, purple, yellow plush
grown, and his handcrafted items have won prizes at various velvet plus the moss green velvet based glass table. These highlight and
international exhibitions. Some 15 years ago, jewellery in Hungary even make the encased precious gems stand out even more.
became a fashion statement. “Suddenly, jewellery was closely linked to
fashion,” Varga states. “So our designs become more modern.” At Seated in a small corner under the main floor’s open stairs, you will find
about that same time, Varga also discovered that although platinum is the ever present Hungarian coffee loving nation’s espresso machine,
very expensive because it is 40% heavier than gold, the precious metal The immaculately dressed Varga is not only shy, but also modest about
worked well for the development of his technique “which has never his incredibly unique jewellery designs. Here in the cozy area is
been done before”. where he begins to discuss the golden spider webs.
With his staff of eight goldsmiths, the handmade pieces are at a A mesh Horn of Plenty certainly has plenty 3.
disadvantage in a sense, since there is only the possibility of a small good stuff that oozes out perfectly round,
production. “I really don’t want to mass produce, even if I could,” says high nacre, cultured pearls. Another
Varga, a nattily dressed, soft-spoken, 50-something gentleman. While round pendent seems to have snagged
his limited editions are certainly not available for mass consumption, a large impressive and rare
they do attract attention across the globe. Not only does he have a Mandarin garnet and if that is not
following of tourists who have discovered or sourced out his jewellery enough, it hangs from a strand of
designs, but a number of royal families around the world have been perfectly matched champagne
admirers and purchasers as well. coloured Tahitian pearls.
PAGE 96
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AUGUTST 2008 CJ 95
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2.
1. circle pendant with cognac colour diamond
2. yellow gold Au 750+ ruby (Burma)
3. platinum, Tahitian pearl, diamond
1.
3.
96 CJ AUGUST 2008
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1.
2.
Another surprise is that there are summer and winter gemstones. For Stones come from Varga’s supplier in
example, Hungarians only wear aquamarines in the summer. One of Germany with whom he has had a very 2.
the choices is an intricately conical shaped meshed pendant studded long business relationship, while the
with small diamonds, and spilling out one large glorious perfectly rose pearls are sourced by another merchant.
white pearl. However, it is not long before you can see the expensive He does admit, though, that he looks
and stunning designs hidden in the vitrines on the upper level. forward to selecting his own pearls,
some day, in Tahiti. [CJ]
Encased is an open-ended neckpiece with three hanging attached
mesh soft triangular shapes featuring some of the largest Tahitian
pearls (approx. 15mm). The other end features an unusually large
black pearl. “This design didn’t start with Chanel,” Varga clarifies
when it was suggested that Chanel has a similar design, “but in the
1920s,” he states. Another similar piece has large diamonds. Nothing
is simple nor gaudy or overdone. Price points are over $25,000CDN
and up to approximately $60,000CDN.
AUGUST 2008 CJ 97
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REGISTER TODAY
TO ATTEND
Visit jcktoronto.ca
Or call 1-800-346-8372
Sun., August 10 - Tues., August 12, 2008
Metro Toronto Convention Centre
North Building U Toronto, Ontario
Experience:
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PEARL RING DESIGNED BY ALFREDO ALVAREZ, WINNER OF THE PEARL CATEGORY IN THE
CANADIAN JEWELLER MAGAZINE EXCELLENCE IN DESIGN AWARDS COMPETITION 2007.
CJ August.qxd:Layout 1 7/23/08 3:02 PM Page 100
JCK TORONTO
A UGUST 10 – 12, 2008
N ORTH B UILDING • M ETRO T ORONTO
C ONVENTION C ENTRE
255 F RONT S TREET, T ORONTO , ON
J CKTORONTO . CA
The affluent JCK brand, with its reputation for delivering excellence, is poised to offer you the experience
that you have come to expect from this brand—right in your own backyard! JCK Toronto will offer an
exciting environment and dynamic sourcing and learning experience—unlike anything that we have
experienced in Canada before. If you have not already done so, you should mark August 10, 11, & 12 on
your calendar and make plans to attend this year’s JCK Toronto show.
CJ August.qxd:Layout 1 7/23/08 3:02 PM Page 101
E x pe r i e
THE JCK BRAND
n c e
IN TORONTO
JCK Toronto exclusively serves qualified jewellery retailers, buyers and wholesalers. This event is your
best opportunity in 2008 to:
• restock your shelves for the busy upcoming buying season,
• discover unique designer jewellery,
• learn at the FREE education program,
• meet and network within the jewellery industry, and
JCK Toronto is produced by Reed Exhibitions, producers of the internationally recognized JCK brand,
whose series of events include Luxury by JCK, JCK Las Vegas, Swiss Watch by JCK, JCK New Delhi,
and Collections by JCK.
LOCATION
JCK Toronto will take place at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre, North Building (Downtown
Toronto, across from the CBC Building).
E VEN T H O U R S
Sunday, August 10 10:00a.m.–6:00p.m.
Monday, August 11 10:00a.m.–6:00p.m.
Tuesday, August 12 10:00a.m.–4:00p.m.
E V E N T WE B S IT E
www.jcktoronto.ca
RE G IST RA TI O N
JCK Toronto is open only to qualified buyers, retailers and wholesalers who purchase wholesale for the
purpose of resale of finished jewellery. Visit jcktoronto.ca to view event admission rules and regulations
and to register.
CJ August.qxd:Layout 1 7/23/08 3:02 PM Page 102
PARTNERSHIPS
JCK Toronto is produced in partnership
with the Canadian Jewellers’
Association. In addition, the JCK
Toronto team continues to reach out
to important key industry players
including the media, exhibitors and
attendees to seek their input on how to
keep JCK Toronto a strong strategic
business partner.
The JCK Toronto show floor showcases a diverse selection of product offerings:
SUNDAY, AUGUST 10
- Are you Halfway Selling? presented by Shane Decker
- Selling with Security presented by Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company
- Give Your Customers What They’re Looking for this Holiday Season presented by Duncan Parker, Vice President of
Harold Weinstein Laboratory
MONDAY, AUGUST 11
- Anti-money Laundering Regulations and Guidelines: What You Need to Know to Comply presented by Ken Mulhall,
Canadian Jewellers Association and Phyllis Richard, Jewellers Vigilance Canada
- 25 Powerful Ways to Maximize Your Sales presented by Brad Huisken
- Canadian Diamond—Past, Present and Future presented by Martin Irving, Diamond Consultants Canada and Cathy
McMurray, Polar Diamond Group
- Loyalty Programs—Turning Customer Satisfaction into Customer Loyalty presented by Kirsten Darrow of Fred Meyer Jewelers
MONDAY, AUGUST 11
• The ABCs of Casting
• Palladium 101
TUESDAY, AUGUST 12
• Making Mokumé-game at the Bench
E X H I B I T I N G C O M PA N I E S
A.V. Diamonds/Price Point Leader .1325 European Gemological Laboratory . . .14 Nelson Jewellery USA Inc . . . . . . . .1610
Abbasi Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1035 Exagem Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .728 New York Jewels Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .1232
Access Security Products Ltd. . . . . . . .5 Fantastic Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . .1425 Nicci Lulu/ Katherine Song . . . .DC # 5
Accudiam Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1012 FINTRAC . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1239 Noble Gift Packaging . . . . . . . . . . .1707
Advanced Computing Edge Ltd. . . .1727 Fiori Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .26 Noble Jewelry Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .619
AF Design Inc . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .11 Five Star Gold Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .725 Northam Diamonds & Zeghani by Simon 614
Aladdin Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1416 Flica Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .907 Nouvo Mode International . . . . . . .1316
Alaja Sterling Silver . . . . . . . . . . .DC # 2 Forever Jewels . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .510 Ocean Dreams USA . . . . . . . . . . . .1619
Alfred Sung Watches Inc. . . . . . . . .1519 Franco Creations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .919 On Tap Resources Ltd./LED WATCH-
Allura International Inc. . . . . . . . . .1607 Fusionatic Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .941 STOP.COM . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1515
Almar Jewellery Mfg. . . . . . . . . . . . .324 Gabriella Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . .1538 ORBIT . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .924
Almer Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .429 Gem Scan International Inc. . . . . . .1015 Orchids Gold Silver Co. Ltd. . . . . . . .733
AmberLink/Content Interface Corp. .836 Gemological Institute of America . . . .17 PAJ Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .615
Americas Gold . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1111 Gemsparkle Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .525 Pandora Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .815
Ampra International Inc. . . . . . . . . .833 GemVision . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1723 Paragems Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1119
Areli LtÇe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1011 Gilo Creations . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .635 Peter Stone Company . . . . . . . . . . .537
Arezzo Jewellery Design . . . . . . . . .914 Girmal Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1337 Pharos Creations Company . . . . . .1038
Astral Bijou Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1034 GM Gold & Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . .529 Pierre Laurent Timepieces (Universal Time)1517
B.H. Multicom . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .825 Gold & Silver House Limited . . . . .1328 Polar Ice Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . .707
B.K. Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .713 Golden Dragon Jewelry Corp. . . . . . .515 Polypearl Asia Ind. Limited . . . . . .1018
Balch Company TITASA . . . . . . . .DC # 4 Golden Stone USA Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .819 Premier Pearl & Gem Co. Ltd. . . . . .724
BB Impex . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .607 Gold-N-Diamonds Inc. . . . . . . . . . .729 Prestige Pak Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1529
Best Bargains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .528 H.J. Namdar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1118 Quality Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1036
Beverly Hills Jewellers Manufacturing 1114 Henry K Designs . . . . . . . . . . . . .DC # 6 Rare and Precious Gems . . . . . . . . .407
Bharat Diamond Corporation . . . . .1617 HighChi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1233 Rebeau Jewellery HK Ltd. . . . . . . . . .511
Boas & Farro Limited . . . . . . . . . . .1224 Himalayan Silver Crafts P. Ltd. . . . . .938 Rich Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1110
Bogarz Family Jewelry . . . . . . . . . .1615 HNK Imports . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .910 RM USA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .521
Brilliant C Diamonds Corp. . . . . . .1016 Hong Kong Perfect Jewellery Co. Ltd .1334 Royal Chain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1218
Bruner Ind. E Com. Ltda. . . . . . . . . .421 Huntapak Canada Inc. . . . . . . . . . .1614 Royal Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .624
Bulova Watch Company Ltd. . . . . .1507 IAS Training . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1539 Royal Oxford Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . .1525
Butterfly Gem . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .536 IGI . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .20 Sassounian Mtl. Inc. . . . . . . . . . . .1532
C A Links . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1229 India Gems . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1137 ScanPoint . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1725
C. Mahendra NY, LLC. . . . . . . . . . . .820 Intermerge Canada Inc. . . . . . . . . . .936 Shiny Jewellers . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1225
Canadian Gem (Gemperle) . . . . . . .1107 International Diamond Distributors Inc. .1705 Signature(r) Engraving Systems, Inc. . .1115
Canadian Gemmological Association .13 Ion-Ray Co Ltd/Q-Ray . . . . . . . . . . .824 Silverado by Argenti Oro S.A. . . . .1722
Canadian Jeweller (CJ) Magazine . . . .23 Ital-Can Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1025 SilverGate . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1419
Canadian Jewellers Association . . . . .22 J.W. Histed Diamonds Ltd. . . . . . . . .837 Silvex Los Angeles . . . . . . . . . . . .1228
Caramella Fine Jewellery . . . . . . . . .807 Jewelers Mutual Insurance Company 721 SK Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .417
Carmen Jewellery Inc. . . . . . . . . . .1511 Jewellers Vigilance Canada . . . . . . . .19 Sonette Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .610
CH Hakimi . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1613 Jewellery Business . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .12 Spectrum Fine Jewellery . . . . . . . . .1125
Chamilia . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1237 Jewelry Land . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .929 Stamper Black Hills Gold Inc. . . . . . .720
Chic Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .625 JSN Jewellery Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1311 Standout Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .636
China Tianjin Aierxiangyu Jewelry Co. Ltd. 1238 KABANA . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .612 Steven Royce Designs/S & J Jewelry 1415
Colombin Stone Co. Ltd. . . . . . . . . .920 Kanaris Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1317 Stonebridge Imports Ltd. . . . . . . . . .421
Consulate General of Brazil . . . . . . .421 Kate King Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . .617 Studex USA Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1436
Cornell Insurance Brokers & Optimum Kev Diamond . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1437 Sun Gems International . . . . . . . . .1029
Insurance Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . .15 Khalsa Jewellery House . . . . . . . . . .736 TAKA Jewellery Pte. Ltd . . . . . . . . . .618
Corona Jewellery Company . . . . . .1007 Kin Chong Gems & Jewellery (Canada) Inc.507 TD Retail Card Services . . . . . . . . . .436
Creative Gems Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . .1019 Kitco Metals . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1335 The Trendy Group . . . . . . . . . . . . .1214
Crown Ring Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1129 KLMN Company . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1139 Time Central . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1521
Dagmar Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .737 La Donna (North America) Inc. . . . . .829 Traders Jewellery Corp. . . . . . . . . .1329
Dalco Concept Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .25 Lacy & Company Ltd. . . . . . . . . . . . .519 Tripro Canada Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . .1518
Danielle O’ Connor Jewellery . . . . . .718 Legrand Jewellery Co. Ltd. . . . . . . . .937 United Precious Metals . . . . . . . . .1039
Delcam International Inc. . . . . . . . .1216 Lisa Rideout Exclusive Jewellery .DC # 3 Vandan Associates Inc. . . . . . . . . . .928
Design Unlimitied . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .10 Livingstone Jewelry Co. Inc. . . . . . .1138 Vassal Jewellery . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .918
Diaco Inc. - The Diamond Company 925 Luminox Watch Company . . . . . . .1622 Vianna Joias . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .421
Diamond II Scalzo Bros. . . . . . . . . . .913 Makur Designs Inc. . . . . . . . . . . . . .811 Vivian Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .935
Diamport Corp. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1121 Marvelli International Limited . . . . .616 Waldman Diamond Canada Ltd. . . .1514
Dolceoro . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .714 Master Design Jewellery Ltd. . . . . .1411 World Jewelry Center . . . . . . . . . . . .406
Elemento da Amazonia Ltda. . . . . . .421 Mikala’s Design . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1217 World Shiner Canada Inc. . . . . . . . .1017
EMBIX Watch Co. . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1618 Mister Trader . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .939 World’s Gold & Diamonds . . . . . . .1629
Eternal Diamonds . . . . . . . . . . . . . .611 MJSA/AJM Magazine . . . . . . . . . . .1621 YES Watch . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1620
Eureka J Corporation . . . . . . . . . . .1537 Munic Gems Canada . . . . . . . . . . . .513 Zack’s Fine Jewelry . . . . . . . . . . . .1528
Eurodiam/Ice Forever . . . . . . . . . . .629 Natco Exports Private Limited . . . . .621 Zoppini Canada . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .1211
as of July 16, 2008
CJ August.qxd:Layout 1 7/23/08 3:02 PM Page 105
CJ_Aug08_Western.qxd:Layout 1 7/21/08 3:58 PM Page 106
Booth Listing
1 - 2 ............BENJAMIN & COMPANY 55 ................WALDMAN DIAMOND CANADA LTD 111 - 112......POLAR ICE CANADIAN DIAMONDS
3 ..................CONCEPT MARKETING INC. 56 - 57 ........ITAL CAN INC. (PRINCE BELLA)
4 - 5 ............GEE N GEE IMPORTERS LTD. 58 ................KARAT IMPORTS LTD 113 ..............THE TRENDY GROUP
6 - 7 ............FRANCO CREATIONS/FRONT TOP 59 ................PMG MARKETING INC 114 - 115 ....ROUSSEAU CHAIN LTD
JEWELRY MFR. LTD. 60 ................EGL CANANDA 116 ..............ZEGHANI
8 - 9 ............ALMAR JEWELLERY 61 ................BELL DIAMONDS INTERNATIONAL 117 - 118 ....CELEBRITY WATCH INTERNATIONAL INC.
10 - 10A ......PRESTIGE PAK INC 62 ................GREENWOOD GENERAL INSURANCE AGENCY INC 017, 018 ......DIAMONDS & DIAMONDS
10 - 10A ......PRISTINE GEMSTONES 63 ................KARAT IMPORTS LTD 119 - 120......ABE – MOR DIAMOND CUTTERS &
11 ................JOSEPH LEVY CANADA 64 - 65 ........ITAL CAN INC. CO./ABEMOR.CA
12 - 13 ........FIVE STAR GOLD INC 66 ................WALDMAN DIAMOND CANADA LTD. 121 ..............IGI INTERNATIONAL GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE
14 ................INTERNATIONAL IMPORT & EXPORT CO 67 - 68 ........SHINY JEWELLERS 122 - 123 ....B & S (Canada) INC
15 - 16 ........EMPRESS 69 ................KRUPA FINE DIAMOND JEWELLERY 124 ..............JOHN’S WHOLESALE JEWELRY
17 - 18 ........DIAMONDS & DIAMONDS 70 ................CROWN PEARL 125 ..............HABSONS JEWELLERS SUPPLIES
19 - 22 ........NOBLE GIFT PACKAGING INC 71 - 74 ........OLYMPIA JEWELLERY CORP 126 ..............INTERMERGE CANADA INC
23 - 24 ........GOLD & SILVER HOUSE LTD 75 ................WENGER’S LIMITED 127 - 128 ....J. IFRAH LTEE
25 ................SIMIAN SAFES 76 ................KRUPA FINE DIAMOND JEWELLERY 127 - 130 ....FESTINA CANADA
26 ................CEYLON GEMS 79 ................IMAGE FIFTH AVENUE INC. 127 - 130 ....THE KRD GROUP LTD.
27 ................SPECTRUM IMPORTS INC. 77 - 78 ........SHINY JEWELLERS 131 - 132 ....TRILLION
28 - 30 ........MILANOR INC. 80 - 81 ........MAUR-EL DISTRIBUTION 133 ..............GIRMAL INC
28 - 30 ........SK DIAMONDS 82 ................JEWEL TRADE 134 ..............SIGNATURE ENGRAVING SYSTEMS INC.
31 ................LACEY WEST 83 - 86 ........I.B.B./ALLURA DIAMONDS 135 ..............AMPRA INTERNATIONAL INC.
32 - 34 ........ARELI LTD. 87 ................WATIER FINDINGS INC 136A ............MEIRA T. DESIGNS FOR IDI DESIGN GROUP
35 ................BERTRAM & COMPANY 87 ................MERIDIAN JEWELLERY CORP. 136A ............IDI DESIGN GROUP/MEIRA T. DESIGNS
36 - 38 ........RNB JEWELLERY 88 - 90 ........C.B.E. INC 136 - 138 ....BEVERLY HILLS JEWELLERS MFG LTD
39 ................HOUSE OF JEWELLERY 91 ................DIAROUGH CANADA SALES INC./ 139 ..............BOLT SECURITY SYSTEMS
40 - 41 ........BOAS & FARRO LTD UNI-DESIGN CANADA (UDC) INC. 140 - 141 ....V.L.M. CANADA WHOLESALE JEWELLERY
42 ................RAINBOW WHOLESALERS LTD. 92 - 93 ........EXAGEM INC. 142 ..............PREMIER PEARL & GEM COMPANY LTD
43 - 44 ........PANDORA JEWELRY 94 - 95 ........E.W. BUTCH COOPER AGENCIES / 143 - 144 ....GEMSPARKLE LTD / PRAASH JEWELS INC
45 ................KIN CHONG GEMS & JEWELLERY (CANADA) INC. JEWELHOUSE CANADA 145 ..............TOM JEWELLERY
46 ................TECIMER JEWELLERY 96 - 97 ........BEST BARGAINS 146 - 147 ....BK JEWELLERY
47 - 48 ........FANTASTIC JEWELLERY 98 - 99 ........ALMER JEWELRY 148 - 150 ....CORONA JEWELLERY CO.
49 - 50 ..........GOLD-N-DIAMONDS INC/JEWELRY SUPER CENTER 100 - 101 ....VANDAN ASSOCIATES INC. 151 - 156 ....POLAR ICE CANADIAN DIAMONDS
51 ................TECIMER JEWELLERY 103 - 104 ....GILO CREATIONS 157 - 159 ....CORONA JEWELLERY CO.
52 ................KIN CHONG GEMS & JEWELLERY (CANADA) INC. 105 ..............INCOM TECHNICAL SOLUTIONS 160 - 161 ....ITALGEM INC./ETERNAL DIAMONDS
53 ................BRILLIANT C DIAMONDS CORP. 106 - 107 ....WITTNAUER INTERNATIONAL 162 ..............NUCO CHARMS
54 ................CARMEN JEWELLERY INC. 108 - 110 ....BULOVA WATCH CO. LTD. 163 - 165 ....RARE AND PRECIOUS GEMS
CJ_Aug08_Western.qxd:Layout 1 7/21/08 3:58 PM Page 107
what’son
what’son
GEM-O-RAMA 2008 67TH ANNUAL SHOW JA NEW YORK SPECIAL DELIVERY ICA INTERNATIONAL GEM SHOW 2008
OCTOBER 11-12 JEWELRY SHOW OCTOBER 13-15
Lapidary and Show Building OCTOBER 26-28 Al Bustan Rotana Hotel
Trona, CA Javits Convention Center Dubai, United Arab Emirates
Tel: (760) 372-5356 New York City, New York Tel: (212) 620-0900
Web: www1.iwvisp.com/tronagemclub Tel: (404) 584-7458 Email: ica@gemstone.org
Web: www.ja-newyork.com Web: www.gemstone.org
JEWELERS INTERNATIONAL SHOWCASE
OCTOBER 17-19 OCTOBER | INTERNATIONAL INDIAN HANDICRAFTS AND GIFTS FAIR
Miami Beach Convention Center INTERGEM – INTERNATIONAL TRADE FAIR OCTOBER 15-18
Miami Beach, Florida FOR GEMS AND GEMSTONE JEWELLERY India Expo Centre EXPO XXI,
Tel: (561) 998-0205 OCTOBER 3-6 Greater Noida Expressway
Email: jisshow@aol.com Budau Exhibition Halls New Delhi, Delhi
Web: www.jisshow.com Idar-Oberstein, Rheinland-Pfalz, Germany Tel: +(91)-(11)-26135256
Email: office@intergem.de
Web: www.intergem.de
Every effort has been made to publish accurate information but please contact show organizers to confirm.
If you would like dates added, please contact sonia@rivegauchemedia.com.
For details, write #140 on Free Info Page, page 120.
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
Revolution.
Introducing the new canadianjeweller.com
It’s all about you.
Read current and past issues online. Listen to articles and podcasts.
Find it on our 50,000 item Buyers Guide. Discuss & debate
on our Forums. Source & Share in our retailer-only space.
Get published.
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
pure beauty
has a name...
showcase
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the showcase section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
OVER 200
STYLES
TO CHOOSE
FROM
Over 30 years
as wholesalers
in Canada
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marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
AB A.B. MACHINERY
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ORDER READY
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• BRONZE • PALADIUM www.cigem.ca
•
• STERLING • PLATINUM SINCE 1986 Accredited Gemmologist (C.I.G.)
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• ALLOYS FOR GOLD Fine Jewellery Appraiser (C.I.G.)
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P.O. Box 57010
55 Mont-Royal W., suite 600, Montréal, Québec, Canada, H2T 2S6
Vancouver, B.C. V5K 5G6
604-530-8569
1-800-294-2211
marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
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Email: franchise@fastfix.com Web: • Low Inventory Costs Toll Free : 800-263-6106 www.gesswein.com
• 23 Year Proven Record 24 hr Fax : 888-269-0106 email: sales@gessweincanada
www.fastfix.com • No Exp. Nec. Full Training
marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
MOISSANITE CANADA
Reflect the brilliance of your life
~
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gemstone including diamond, ruby, sapphire and emerald
no other gemstone or jewel compares to Moissanite.
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Tel: 416-366-7295 Fax: 416-366-3966
215 Victoria St, Suite 201 Toronto ON M5B 2T9
marketplace A D V E R T I S I N G
Marketplace Advertising Black/white drawings & logos can be supplied but no photographs are permitted. Single size: – 3.9” wide by 2” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $225; 7 times – $260; 3 TIMES
– $309; 1 TIME – $340. Double size: – 3.9” wide by 3.8” tall. Rates per insertion: 9 TIMES – $450; 7 TIMES – $490; 3 TIMES – $575; 1 TIME – $650. Rates do not include GST. Yellow is available as a
spot color for an additional $65. For more information: Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
STEWARTS HOROLOGY
QUALITY service and attention to detail.
• 6 Highly Qualified Technicians
• Large Inventory of Parts and Access to all
the Major Supply Houses
REPAIRS to fine Watches, Quartz and
Mechanical, Restoration of Pocket Watches.
IN JEWELLERY REPAIR
YOUR
YOUR
1
NAME E N V E L O P E
DESIGN L O W E S T
DESIGN PRICES
TO
T O YOUR
YO U R NO
N O IIN
N
OW
O WN
WISHES
W ISHES D A
ALL
PRINTING
P RINTING 1 - 800 661- 4410
STEPS F A X : 1 - 4 5 0 6 6 1 - 4 9 9 9
NCLUDED s t u d i o - p u b l i c i t y . c o m
IINCLUDED
classified
A D V E R T I S I N G
For more information on how to advertise in the classified section of Canadian Jeweller magazine please contact:
Lucy Holden Toll free 877-789-5351 or e-mail lucy@rivegauchemedia.com.
FOR SALE
various territories. Agents
area with a potential easy million
dollar a year business, 1000 sq. feet
network of independent
custom jewellery from design, in gold and year with a very modern and classy
platinum. Email or fax resume and photos
Calling
all Canadian Jewellery Retailers…
You’ve probably noticed a change in Canadian Jeweller covers
the past few issues, as they’ve featured some of our industries
top retailers.We’re always looking for new businesses to shine a
spotlight on, so if you’re interested, we’d love to hear from you.
PAGE
TITLE HERE
GET FREE INFORMATION! On any product advertised in this issue
120 SEE A PRODUCT YOU LIKE? WANT MORE INFORMATION, ABSOLUTELY FREE?…
FREE
Regal - Hallmark of Quality 24 120 Regal Diamonds 122-123 141
Areli - Luxurious Chocolate Pearls 25 121 Mirage Creations - Eternity Love Collection 124 142
Yes! Please send me or continue to send me Canadian Jeweller magazine No, don’t send
STEP 1 STEP 1 To qualify, check ovals: Selling area of your store
under 1,000 sq. ft. 1,001 to 3,000 sq. ft.
Signature: Date: Which category best describes your
3,001 to 5,000 sq. ft. over 5,000 sq. ft.
business classification?
Your Name: Title: Education Approximate annual sales volume
Retailer under $500,000
Company Name: Manufacturer $500,000 to $1 million
Address: Wholesaler $1 million to $5 million
Importer $5 million to $10 million
City: Province: Designer $10 million to $20 million
Services (repair, appraisals, etc.) over $20 million
Postal Code: Other __________________________________
Categories you personally manage
Phone: ( ) Fax: ( ) Number of employees at your location Retailer Designer
Email Address (optional): 1-3 4- 8 9-12 13+ Gemologist Supplier
Manufacturer
Number of locations ____________________ Other __________________________
STEP 4
FAX NOW TO: 1-888-849-0155 or (416) 703-6392 | OR MAIL CARD TODAY TO: 60 Bloor St. West, Suite 1106 Toronto, ON, M4W 3B8
WA LT W H I T M A N O N C E W R O T E :