The construction will have to be delayed.

This is a serious setback for the

Lama, as today, Sunday, is the best day for such a project. In this area of
McLeod Ganj, concrete is not moved by machine, but is carried up by
physically passing bowls of wet concrete from man-to-man. A large project
like this requires a lot of volunteer help, most of whom can only come on a
Sunday.
Twenty minutes later, the rain is just as heavy. Rinpoch returns and I
dutifully join him. Again, the thighbone trumpet is brought out and blown.
Smoke drifts into our faces from the juniper wood fire that is smoldering
down below. Periodically, a special incense is thrown on the fire at the
Lama's direction, and its sweet pungency adds to the aroma of the juniper.

A figure appears through the mists. It is Tra-joong, one of the monks in

three year retreat at the monastery. He brings an umbrella for Rinpoch,
and I huddle with him under its slight protection.
A final series of notes and a series of mantras are whispered, and the Lama
again smiles at me, blowing through pursed lips as he extends his right arm
in a circle around himself. I understand that he's pantomiming pushing the
clouds away.
As he invites me down to breakfast, I note that the rain is finding its way
right through the fabric of the umbrella. I feel a pang of sadness for the
Lama. I would've wished him success this morning. He seems confident,
however, and his appetite demonstrates that he is unconcerned. In my
honor, his son, Karma Sonam, has prepared French toast.

Carefully avoiding the subject of rain, I learn that the source of the Lama's
power resides in his meditational practice, which originated in Tibet during
the eighth century. Then, the tantric master Padmasambhava was credited
with bringing Buddhism to that country and starting a lineage of practice
known as the Nying-ma. Known as Guru Rinpoch to the Tibetans, a large
gilded image of the Master graces a central position at Zilnon Kagyeling.
Lama Yesh Dorj is not only a Nying-ma Lama, but he is also a Ngak-pa:
one of a small group of yogis who specialize in unusually difficult and
dangerous practices, requiring control of vast powers. One example is
controlling the weather; another is the Dr ceremony.
Here, the Lama is required to summon all of the negative forces afflicting
the people who come to the ritual, and appease and disperse them. The
participants are thus relieved of the obstructing forces in their lives,
whether physical or mental.
So dangerous is this ritual that this Lama is one of the very few to perform
this ceremony. Nonetheless, the Lama tells me later, it is much more
difficult to control one's mind than to control the weather. He seems to be
gently suggesting that the former is a more appropriate project for me than
the latter.
We finish breakfast. It is still raining as the workmen appear and stand
around helplessly. Rinpoch takes a nap. By 10 a.m. the rain begins to slow,
and it is only a light drizzle by 10:15. This is ideal, as the concrete will crack
if it dries too quickly. I leave the monastery to visit the Library of Tibetan
Works and Archives as Rinpoch begins to supervise the work from the roof
of the monastery.
When I return at about 2 p.m., volunteers have arrived and are already
passing concrete. I join them, struggling to keep up with Ren, a seemingly
inexhaustible young girl who has become a student of the Rinpoch. By
6:30 the work is done. Clearly, the weather has been subjugated, after all.
Four days later, it is July 6th. His Holiness's birthday is celebrated by
Tibetans through prayer ceremonies, feasting and singing. There is a slight
drizzle at 6:30 am as I arrive at the monastery. Lama confirms that he has
already performed the ritual to ensure good weather, and that I should wait

to see the result. True to prediction, it becomes a beautiful morning, and is

clear and sunny almost all day.
The entire monastery is planning to have an outdoor feast for dinner, and I
am invited. In the courtyard, Karma Sonam is overseeing a feast of meat,
pancakes and potatoes, and we are joined by a visiting Lama and a
Buddhist nun. Every dish is simple and delicious.
Clouds begin to roll in, but the Lama gives no hint of anxiety. Suddenly, a
rainbow arcs over the monastery and the monks exclaim their delight.
Rainbows are a special sign of Guru Rinpoch. I look to Lama Yesh Dorj
for his reactions, and am rewarded with a wink and a broad smile.
The monsoon continues the next day as usual.