A DISTINGUISH

LANDMARK IN THIS RIGION TO DEVELOP

OUR GARMENTS /TEXTILE SECTOR AS WELL
AS
MAKE
STRONG
OUR
ECONOMIC
BASEMENT.

SPEECH OF PROJECT WRITERS

FIRST OF ALL THANKS TO ALMIGHTY ALLAH WHO HAS
GIVEN US A GREAT CHANCE TO DO SUCH LIKE A NICE
PROJECT ON MERCHANDISING UNDER SUPERVISION
OF OUR HONOROUBLE TEACHER PROFESSOR

DR.MD.MAHBUBUL HAQUE & MD.MAHFUJUR

RAHMAN .ACTUALLY IT IS SO TOUGH TO DO A
REPORT ON THIS SUBJECT. ONCE IT WAS A DREAM TO
MAKE A PROJECT ON THIS SUBJECT & IT WAS A
CHALLENGE FOR US.BUT NOW IT BECAME TRUE.WE
HAVE GIVEN OUR BEST EFFORT TO DO THIS
PROJECT.AND EVERYTHING IS POSSIBLE BECAUSE OUR
TEACHER HELPED US A LOT.THANKS TO OUR
HONOROUBLE TEACHER & PRAY FOR US TO ALLAH
THAT WE CAN DEVELOP OUR LIFE IN NEXT FUTURE.

OVERVIEW

Garments are produced in the garments factories on

industrial basis all the people of a specific country. Bangladesh
is one of the garments producing & exporting country in the
world market. At present there are about 4500 garments
factories running in Bangladesh. Growth of garments factories
started in Bangladesh around 1980.around 1980, garment
production & export business was unknown to us. Foreign
currency earning through garments export $3.24 million which
was not countable in percentage of the total national foreign
currency earnings. Afterwards, tremendous growth of garment
factory, garments productions, garments export, the
percentage of foreign currency earnings through garments
export reached from 0% to around 80% of the national foreign
currency earnings, in 2007-08 financial year.
At present Bangladesh is producing & exporting more than 60
items of garments. the most common items are shirt, trouser,
jacket, sports wear, T-shirt, polo shirts, ladies wear, sweater,
socks, hats etc. this produced items are exported in USA,
Canada, Japan, Australia, middle east and many other countries
in the world. Bangladesh is one of the important & competitive
garments exporting country in the world market. Cheapest
labor cost is the biggest advantage for Bangladeshi garments
producers & exporters.

INTRODUCTION
The main role of a garments merchandiser is to collect
garments export order(export L/C),produce the garments,
export the garments and earn profit, to perform those functions
successfully needs lot of knowledge, experience & tremendous
effort for a merchandiser. The term merchandising is defined as
follows:
Definition of merchandising
The term merchandising related with trade
Trade means buying & selling
The person who is involved with trade, he/she is a
merchandiser
And the activities of a merchandiser is known as a
merchandising

Process flow chart of merchandising

Merchandiser

Negotiation with buyer

Export order collect

Costing of accessories

Send to the buyer

If ok then sample making(according to

buyer requirement)

Get approval

Go to production

In-house of accessories

Line balancing

Production continuing (follow up)

Inspection of the produced garments

Assembling with polybag,carton etc

Preparation of banking

Shipment/delivery

Merchandiser
Qualities of a merchandiser

Language skill
Computer skill
Marketing skill
Right consumption knowledge of various goods
Costing knowledge of raw materials
Order getting ability (That is if the merchandiser is known
by actual rate of raw materials, so that he can negotiate
perfectly with buyer. In this way, the possibility of getting
order is hundred percent.)
Sincere& responsible
Hard worker
ORDERPROCESSEXECUTE
Types of Merchandiser

Junior Merchandiser Senior Merchandiser

Activities of Junior Merchandiser (In a factory)

Main task is production monitoring

Collect inventory report from store
Swatch making & getting approval from buyer
Arrange preproduction meeting in order to prepare a
schedule for smooth production
Place order to different production unit
Collect Daily Production Report &Daily Quality Report

 If any shortage in store, arrange locally.

Arrange final inspection
Arrange final inspection

Responsibilities of Senior Merchandiser

Sample development
Price negotiation
Order confirmation
L/C opening
Opening summery
Sourcing
Material collection
Production planning
Production monitoring
Quality assurance
Arrange final inspection
Arrange shipment

Negotiation with buyer

The most critical work is the procurement of garment export
order.normally garment export order is found from the
potential garment importers called garment buyer.anybody
wants to collect garments export order,should be able to
convince the buyer.when the buyer is convinced about garment
production,garments quality,garments costing and shipment
ability of a garments exporter ,he or she can think about
issuing agarments export order.
Without clear confidence among buyer& exporter from both
sides, may be a risky business deal. If a garment exporter can
continuously deal with only three or four buyer with buyers
satisfaction, it will be sufficient enough to run garment

production & garment export business smoothly round the

year.
A successful negotiation outcome does not generally occur
through luck, but by following a clear process. The process
reflects the different levels of knowledge of the subject of
negotiation, various parties and the way they communicate at
various stages in the negotiation. The following is an outline of
steps essential to effective negotiation:

1) Researching the needs of both parties

The greater the knowledge a buyer has of their own and the
suppliers requirements, the better able they are to construct
an acceptable solution. The buyer must be clear about both the
department mark-up to be placed on the product cost and the
intended retail selling price so that she or he can judge the
viability of the suppliers products.

2) Preparation
Effective preparation is also vital to successful communication.
It is essential that the buyer also has identified the maximum
and minimum positions that she will accept for a range of
factors including:
product price
order size
lead- time.

3) Offer
The buyer and supplier can make specific proposals to set the
boundaries of the negotiation.

4) Discussion
There will be areas on which one side can move than more
then the other and vice versa. It is important for the buyer to

make a note of which ones provide the greatest and least

opportunities for flexibility.

5) Counter and revised offers

This is the real bargaining where elements of the order, such as
number of units, product details, lead-time and so on are being
decided in the context of an overall cost price the buyer should
make firm proposals.

6) Summaries
7) Agree & commit.

Execution of garments export order

After receiving the garment export order, without wasting any
time, it is essential to prepare a schedule for the jobs to be
done for safe execution of the export order. The main jobs for
the execution of an export order are as follows:
Details analysis of export L/C
Preparation of a time schedule for the export L/C
Collection of fabric& accessories for the garment to be
exported[source, quantity of the items, cost of the items,
receiving data of the items, quality& quantity, Inspection
of the items, etc]
Distribution of responsibilities for the jobs & duties
Production plan
Inspection of the produced garments for quality, quantity,
packing & other requirements of the buyer.
Preparation of banking & shipment formalities
Continuous follow-up progress
Others.

L.C. (Letter of Credit)

The whole system of merchandising is depending on L. C.
It is the main stem of this trade.

Types of L.C.
Various types of L.C. are present in business system.
Some recognized processes are
1) MASTER /MOTHER L.C
2) BACK TO BACK L.C
3) SIGHT L.C
4) DEFFERED L.C
(Note: in Bangladesh sight l. c is mainly used)
In this trade initially cash money is not used. L. c is the
main process for buying & selling. When a business deal is
made for buying & selling between buyer & merchandiser
then the buyer gives permission to his bank to open an
L.C. of approx amount & send it to merchandisers bank.
Then this bank informed to merchandiser that an L.C. is
accepted. This l .c is called MASTER L.C.
THEN MERCHANDISER takes decision about the
manufacturer for collecting raw materials .when
merchandiser choose supplier then he tell the supplier to
send a pro-forma invoice. After getting p .I. merchandiser
tell to his bank to open an l .c send to the suppliers bank.
This l. c is opened from mother l .c which is given to
merchandiser. This l .c is called back to back or b to b l.c.
When supplier sends the products to merchandiser, then
he send a acceptance copy to his bank& a copy to the
supplier. Then the supplier can able to get cash from his

bank. At the same way merchandiser send the product to

the buyer or after shipment he also able to get cash from
bank. Shipment of goods is done by B.L (bill of
leading).this system is called SIGHT L.C.SIGHT L.C.
consists of MASTER & B TO B L.C.

Pro-forma invoice
An invoice presented by one company to another for payment
for goods prior to their dispatch. This method of invoicing is to
ensure payment is received and is often the case when two
companies have not traded before. If future trading is
anticipated it will then be usual for an account to be set up for
the purchasing company with credit facilities
It is known as P.I. Pro-forma invoice is taken by merchandiser
from the supplier or manufacturer. Where everything is listed
that is product amount, price, carton size and the total cost of
required production and received by the merchandiser from
supplier.

Sample pro-forma invoice type

Costing of local accessories price

Local accessories suppliers are available in Bangladesh.

Qualities are varying according to market place & price. Some
companies are BUYER nominated.
For example: 1) Plastiform
2) Bright trim etc.

Approx. price range

Accessories
Hanger
: 1.65-2.50 dollar
Papers hang tag
: 10 cent-1 dollar.
Price tag
: 10 cent-60 cent
Poly bag
: 30cent-1dollar (Depending on
thickness)
Carton
: 65 cent- 1.5 dollar
(Note: price is varying according to market price)

size

&

Trims
Sewing thread
: 70-85 cent ( per cone)
Button
: 1.2-2.5 dollar/grows (144 pcs=1 grows)
Rivet
: 80 cents-1.5 dollar/grows
Hole
button/chock
button:
6
dollar8
dollar/gg
(1728pcs=1gg;greater grows)
Zipper
: 1.20dollar-3.50dollar/dozen (pant)
7 dollar-12 dollar (jacket)

(Note: the price is depend on the basis of zipper quality that is

cotton, nylon, polyester etc)

Packing Accessories
The Accessories which are used for garment packing during
garment shipment to buyer are called packing accessories.
Packing accessories are depended on garment packing and
folding etc which is instructed by buyer.
Poly bag, packing board, tissue paper, hanger, scotch tape,
gum tape, carton etc are part of packing accessories.

Packing should be varying (as per buyer garment packing

instruction) in different orders as per instruction of buyer
garments packing. , The number of one carton garments it is
weight on depend carton quality.

Understand quality of carton follow 3 ply, 5 ply, 7ply.

The number of carton is high ply number it is very much it is
hard and strong.

The sea frights depend on dimension of the export carton and

the air frights depend on dimension of the export carton or
gross weight of the carton.

CARTON
TYPE OF CARTON:
1. DEPEND ON PAPER
Carton

: 1. Khaki Carton Or Brown

2. Duplex Carton
3. Box

Carton

2. DEPEND ON STITCHING : 1. Stitching Carton

2. Now stitching /Gum
Pasting Carton Or Metal Free Carton

3. DEPEND ON PLY

: 1. 3 Ply Carton
2. 5 Ply Carton
3. 7 Ply Carton

4. DEPEND ON LINER

: 1. Both Side Liner Carton

2. Out Side Liner Carton

5. DEPEND ON SIZE

: 1. Master Carton
2. Inner Carton

CARTON MEASUREMENT:

FORMULA (1) = (L+W) (W+H)X2 in cm

(Without Wastage)

100X100
FURMULA (2) = (L+W+6) X (W+H+4) X 2/10000 (Include
Wastage)

PRICE

= (L+W) (W+H) X 2 x Rate per Square Meter

100x100
= Rate/Pc

Example:

Here,

L=30, w=40, H=20,

From (2) = (30+40+6) X (40+20+4) X2/10000

= 0.97 Square Meter.
Rate for
Used

7 PLY = .55 USD [For GMTS Export Natural 7 Ply

5 PLY = .39 USD (.55X 5/7) (Less Wt Master

Carton)
3 PLY = .23 USD (It is used as inner carton)

NOTE: Some time some buyer wants top & bottom inside in
the carton. It should be in 3 Ply.

CARTON:
Carton should be made of 7 ply to be exported.
Carton is tested by carton bursting machine.

"BUTTON"
40 Line =1 inch =2.54 cm=2.54 mm

1 line =0.635
MM

TYPE

: 1. Pearl button
2. Horn button: It is also polyester button
3. Chalk

"

4. Logo

"

5. Polyester "
6. Imitation leather
7. Polyester imitation button:
8. Nylon button
9. Alloy button

10. Brass fashion button

11. Jeans button
12. Snap button: 2 ports & 4 ports
13. Press button
14. ABS button
15. Polymat button

: It is made of polyester &

metal.
16. Cord

button

17. Handicraft button

: It is made of cord.
:

18. Fabric Covered button:

19. Coconut button

20. Wooden button

21. Real horn button

22. Real Shell button

23. Rhine stone button

: It is made of metal

& stone

"ZIPPER"

TYPE OF ZIPPER:

1. DEPEND ON END 1. Open end Zipped:

(a) Right insertion of sleeve & left puller (Mens)

(b) left insertion of sleeve & Right puller (Womens)

2. DEPEND ON TEETH SIZE: 1. 3 SIZE

2. 4 SIZE
3. 5 SIZE
4.

It depend on teeth length it 3 mm then

size 3.

3. DEPEND ON TAPE: 1. Polyester

2. Cotton

4. DEPEND ON PULLER: 1. Double puller

2. Single

5. DEPEND ON SLIDER LOCK: 1. Auto lock

2. Semi lock
3. Non lock

6. DEPEND ON TEETH MATERIAL: 1. LYLON (COIL)

2. VISLON /PLASTIC
ZIPPER
3. Metal
1. NYLON: SHINY RAINBOW, SHINY GOLD, SHINY SILVER, ANTIC
BRASS.
2. METAL: BRASS, ANTIC BRASS, NIKEL BRASS, ALUMINIUM,
PEWTER.

3. PLASTIC ON DERLIN: IVORY, TRANSLUCENT, SHINY GOLD,

SILVER RAINBOW.

QUALITY:1. AZO Free

2. NICKEL Free
3. Non magnetic.
4. Non toxic
5. Zipper teeth is not shrink so zipper tape S/B shrink free.
6. FBRIC S/B max 3% Shrinkage otherwise garment
7. like wavy & difficult for the zipper Slider
8. To go up and down .

HHH ZIPPER COMPANY

SYSTEM
1. Types of zipper
The type and name of zipper is given on the basis of
the material used in zipper teeth .
Teeth size is expressed by # 3, #10 and on
words .
# 3 representing Smaller size teeth and # 10 the larger.

PZ : Plastic zipper .

CZ : Polyester Zipper , coil zipper (previously Known as

Nylon Zipper)

MZ: Metal Zipper

GK: Antique Brass Zipper
GB : Golden Brass Zipper
AL : Aluminum Brass Zipper
NI : Nickel Zipper.

2. FUNCTION :

0(0/E)
C (C/E)

: OPEN -END
: CLOSED -END

M(2 WAY)

: 2 WAY OPENED

EXAMPLE :
PZC # 5: Plastic Zipper No 5 , Closed end
PZM # 8: Plastic Zipper No 8 , Way Open End
GKO # 5: Metal ,Antique Brass No .5 Open-End

Open -end zipper are used generally in the front of garments

closed-ends in pockets , hoods legs of garments.

3. POSITION OF SLIDER

L/S : Left Slider (Same as R/H-Right Hand) Mens When a Jacket

in Opened the Slider remains at the left Side of the user.

R/S : Right Slider (Same as L/H-left hand)

USE : L/S : IN Europe & Asia both male & female -IN USA
Generally female.

R/S : IN USA , Canada, South American Countries

ets : Generally male :

SOME SPECIAL ZIPPER:1.REFLECTIVE ZIPPER

2.INVISIBLE zipper : In this type teeth are not show frontout .

3. 2 way slider zipper :

1. 0 Type : Two end is closed so when two slider come toward

then it shape like "0 ".

2. x Type : Two end is open so when two slider come toward

then it shape like x.

3. R Type : One End is closed other is open when two slider

come towards then it shape like R.

IMPORTANT INFORMATION
WHEN WE ORDER Zipper we should know the zipper (teeth and
tape) are colourfast , and order them in colors to match the
garment color after wash the colours of pigment dye fabric
garment or denim garments may change substantially during
the washing process . If your zipper colours match them before

wash, you will end up having the zipper much darker than the
garment colours after wash .

Commercial invoice
Commercial invoice is known as U.D.
document or certificate used for shipment.

This

government

Bill of Lading
Bill Of Lading (BoL)
It is a major document if the goods are dispatched by
sea.
The document represents:
1. A formal receipt for the goods
2. The evidence of the contract of carriage of the
goods between the shipper of the goods and the
shipping company
3. The document of title to the goods
A bill of lading may include the following details:
a description of the goods in general
inconsistent with that in the letter of credit

terms

not

identifying marks and numbers, if any

the name of the carrying vessel
evidence that the goods have been loaded on board
the ports of shipment and discharge
the names of shipper, consignee (if not made out "to
order"), and name and address of the "notifies" party if
any
whether freight has been paid in advance or is payable at
destination
the number of original bills of lading issued
the date of issue
the departure date of carrying vessel or aircraft

SHIPPING TERMS
Consignee
The person whose name appears on the bill of lading
or airway bill as the party to whom the goods are to
be delivered by the carrier.
FCL (full container load)
A fully loaded container which may be in weight or
cubic measurement terms, contracted by one
shipper, and conveyed to one consignee and to one
destination.
LCL (less container load)

A consignment of cargo which does not fill a full

container, grouped with other consignments for the
same destination.
Shipper
This is the person whose name appears on the bill of
lading or airway bill as the party who has contracted
the carrier to dispatch the goods.

Shipping Marks
These are marks essential to identifying cargo and
linking that cargo with specific documents. Because
these marks are important as identifiers, the marks
and numbers should be as simple as possible.
Shipping marks include the abbreviated name of
buyer, reference number, destination, package
number, and container number (if applicable).
Garment on Hangers (GOH)
The garments are packed into the container on
hangers.
Flat Packed
The goods are packed into cartons.

Reedisha Knitex Shipments

Import Genius: Search millions of import - export records

OCEAN BILL OF LADING

BILL OF LADING NO.
SYSASYL000684
SHIPPER
REEDISHA KNITEX LTD
DHANUA,NAYANPUR,SREEPUR GAZIPUR BD
CONSIGNEE
STRATEGIC DISTRIBUTION L.P.
13576 DESMOND STREET,PACOIMA,CA 913 CALIFORNIA CA
NOTIFY PARTY

VOYAGE NO.
00167
VESSEL NAME

ARRIVAL DATE
2006-01-12
PORT OF LOADING
CHITTAGONG
PORT OF DISCHARGE
LOS ANGELES
DECLARATION OF GOODS
ROUND NECK T SHIRT EMPIRE WISE
PARTICULARS
CONTAINER QTY.
NO.
521

MARKS

(2)

STRATEGIC
DISTRIBUTION L.P

(1)

CARGO
WEIGHT

COUNTRY OF
ORIGIN

2547 KG

BANGLADESH

(NOTES)
(1)

As declared by Shipper and not acknowledge by Carrier

(2)

Said to contain

SIGNED BY/ON BEHALF OF CARRIER

Documentation for shipment

Packing list
U.D
Commercial invoice
ERC(export registration certificate)
Bank account.
Bill of Lading.
FOB
:FREE ON BOARD (Free on Board) is simply
the Supplier delivers the goods to his nearest Port
and hands them over to the Freight Forwarder
nominated by the Buyer. Buyer then pays the freight
and arranges Insurance
CNF

:CLEARING & FORWADING

CIF
: COST INSURANCE & FREIGHT (Cost
Insurance Freight) means that the Supplier delivers
the goods to his own Freight Forwarder who then
ships the goods to the destination Port. Seller pays
freight and insurance. From a Buyer's point of view,
CIF is better as he does not have to worry about
arranging shipping from Supplier to his home Port.
DDP

:DELIVERED DUTY PAID

DDU

:DELIVERDED DUTY UNPAID

A Letter of Intent ("LOI"), also known as Memoranda

of Understanding and Memoranda of Agreement, is a
device used to signal parties' agreement to the basic
structure of serious negotiations to close a deal. An
LOI typically comes into play after a round of initial
discussions and after the signing of a Confidentiality

Agreement and a second round of more serious

discussions about the proposed transaction

TERMS OF TRADE

C&F (cost and freight)

The seller/supplier agrees to contract the freight and
pay "cost and freight" for loading the goods, cleared
for export, on board a vessel and the charges to ship
the goods to destination. The buyer bears the risk of
the goods from the time they pass the ship's rail at
the port of shipment and pay for the insurance
coverage, and for the unloading costs at the port of
destination.
CIF (cost, insurance, freight)
The seller's price includes all charges, freight and
insurance up to the point where the ship carrying the
goods arrives at the port of destination; the goods
must be cleared for export by the seller. From that
point the buyer has to bear all charges and risks,
including unloading costs.
CM
This refers to the manufacturing cost and this term
means "cut and make". The buyer supplies all the
materials to the manufacturer.
CMQ
This term means "cut, make and quota" and is
similar to 'CM' except that the manufacturer has to
supply the quota as well.

CMT
The term means "cut, make and trim". The buyer
provides the fabric, and the supplier makes the
garments.
CMTQ
The term means "cut, make, trim and quota". The
buyer has to provide the fabric and the manufacturer
makes the garments as well as provides the quota.
Ex-Ship
The supplier is responsible for all costs incurred until
the ship reaches the port of destination where the
supplier delivers the documents and the buyer can
clear the goods on board the ship. The buyer bears
all risks and costs from that point including unloading
charges.
EXW (ex- works) / Ex-Factory
The supplier delivers the goods to the buyer at his
premises, i.e., factory, warehouse, etc. He has the
minimum responsibility and does not have to provide
minimum documentation unless upon specific
request. The buyer bears all costs and risks involved
upon delivery of the goods until the desired
destination.
FOB
This term means "Free On Board". The supplier is
responsible for all charges (including export licences,
export taxes, etc.) and risks until the goods have
passed over the ship's rail at the port of shipment;
the merchandise must be cleared for export. The
buyer contracts and pays for the freight and bears all
risks for loss or damage to the goods as soon as the
merchandise passes the ship's rail. The buyer also
pays for all import duties and clears the goods
through customs at the point of destination.

FOB Airport (FOA)

This is similar to the term FOB except that the mode
of transportation is an air carrier. The supplier fulfills
his obligations after he has delivered the goods to
the air carrier. The goods must be cleared for export
by the supplier.
Landed Duty Paid (LDP)/ Delivered Duty Paid (DDP)
The seller fulfills his obligation to deliver when the
goods have been made available at the named place
in the country of importation. The seller bears the
risks and costs, including duties, taxes and other
charges of delivering the goods thereto, cleared for
importation. Under these terms, the seller bears the
maximum responsibility, and in this case, the seller
has to clear the goods both for export and import.
Certificate of Origin
A certificate of Hong Kong origin (CO), is issued when
it has been established that the goods are the
natural produce of Hong Kong or the product of a
manufacturing process in Hong Kong which has
changed permanently and substantially the shape,
nature, form or utility of the basic materials used in
manufacture. There are specific origin criteria
applicable
to
individual
types
of
products
manufactured in Hong Kong. There are six
organizations in Hong Kong authorized to issue the
certificate, namely the Trade Department, the Hong
Kong General Chamber of Commerce, the Indian
Chamber of Commerce of Hong Kong, the Federation
of Hong Kong Industries, the Chinese Manufacturers'
Association of Hong Kong, the Chinese General
Chamber of Commerce.

Export Licence

In Hong Kong, export licences are needed for all

garments and textile products. The licences are
issued by the Trade Department.
Packing List
This is a document that indicates the contents of
each individual carton/ package in the container. The
packing list includes the cubic measurement of the
cartons/package, the weight, the number of
cartons/packages, the breakdown of the goods by
size/colour/quantity. This document is prepared by
the seller or the ship owner, and the buyer can
specify which information should be included.

Sample development process in

garment industry
Product package

Design/sketch

Working pattern

remark


Sample garment

comments
Send to buyer
if ok
Approved sample

received

if not ok

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 34

So, Length x Width = (32.5 x 34) sq. inches

= 1105 sq. inches

B. Back Part
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 29
: 0.5 (for hem)

1. 0 (0.5+0.5 for high point)

Safety margin
Total

: 1.0
: 32. 5

width

: 26
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5 )

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 28

So, Length x Width = (31.5 x 28) sq. inches

= 882 sq. inches

C. Sleeve:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 23
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin
Total

: 1.0
: 25

Width

: 11
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5 )

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 13

So, Length x Width = (25 x 13) sq. inches

= 325 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Sleeve consumption

= 325 x 4

= 1300 sq. inches

D. Cuff:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 11
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 13

Width

: 3.5
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 5.5

So, Length x Width = (13 x 5.5) sq. inches

= 71.5 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Cuff consumption

= 71.5 x 4

= 286 sq. inches

E. Sleeve Plucket:
Length

Sewing Allowance
Total

: 6.0
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

: 7

Width

: 1.0
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5 )
Total

: 2

So, Length x Width = (7 x 2) sq. inches

= 14 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Sleeve Plucket consumption

= 14 x 4

= 56 sq. inches

F. Yoke:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 20.0
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin
Total

: 1.0
: 22

Width

: 8.0
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 10

So, Length x Width = (22 x 10) sq. inches

= 220 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Yoke consumption = (22 x 2)

= 440 sq. inches

G. Collar Band:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 18.5
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 20.5

Width

: 1.5
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin
Total

: 0.5
: 3.0

So, Length x Width = (20.5 x 3.0) sq. inches

= 61.5 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Collar Band consumption = 61.5 x 2

= 123 sq. inches

H. Collar:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 18
: 1.0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 1.0

Total

: 20

Width

: 3.0
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin
Total

: 1
: 5.0

So, Length x Width = (20 x 5) sq. inches

= 100 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Collar consumption

= 100 x 2

= 200 sq. inches

I. Pocket:

 Length

Sewing Allowance

: 7.0
: 0.5

Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 8

Width

: 5.0
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin
Total

: 0.5
: 6.5

So, Length x Width = (8 x 6.5) sq. inches

= 52 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Pocket consumption

= 52 x 2

= 104 sq. inches

J. Pocket Flap:
Length

Sewing Allowance

: 5.0
: 1. 0 (0.5+0.5)

Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 6.5

Width

: 2.5
Sewing Allowance
: 1 (0. 5 + 0. 5)

Safety margin

: 0.5

Total

: 4

So, Length x Width = (6.5 x 4) sq. inches

= 26 sq. inches (For one part)

Now, Total Pocket Flap consumption = 26 x 4

= 104 sq. inches

Result:
A+B+C+D+E+F+G+H+I
= 1105+882+1300+286+56+440+123+200+104+104
= 4600 sq. inches

So, the Total consumption of the Basic Shirt = 4600 sq. inches

Conversion of the Unit:

If, the Fabric Width is 58 then the length
inches
= 79.31

= 4600 sq.

58 inches
= 79.31

= 2.2 yards

36

* Now, considering wastage

= 6 7%
= 0.15 yard

Again, Total Length of the fabric

= (2.2 + 0.15) yards

= 2.35 yards
and

Total Width of the fabric

For one shirt

= 58

* Total fabric required for 1 dozen

= (2.35 x 12) yards

= 28.2 yards.

Finally, total fabric consumption for 1 (one) dozen Basic

Shirt is = 28.2 yards
Where, the fabric width is
58

KNIT GARMENTS
Fabric Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Mens Tshirt:

For a Mens T-Shirt:

a) G.S.M (Given by buyer)

Body

Neck/Rib : 175-180

: 145-150

b) Sewing & seam allowances (Not given by buyer) 1.50-3cm

c) Wastage % (Not given by buyer) 7%

d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)

Measurement Chart:
Parameter

Given

Estimated with sewing

allowance

a) Chest

96cm

102cm

b) HPS

65cm

70cm

c) sleeve length

20cm

25cm

d) Arm hole

46cm

49cm

e) Neck

58cm

61cm

2+2=4cm

7cm

f) Neck width
g) Bottom hem

2cm

Formula:

Cpd

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000

Where Cpd = Consumption per dozen

= Length

= Width

A) Cpd (body)

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150

kg

10000000
= 1.28 kg

B) Cpd (Sleeve)

= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
10000000

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
10000000
= 0.44 kg

C) Cpd (Nick)

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 61 x 7 x 12 x 180 kg
10000000
= 0.092 kg

So, total Cpd

=A+B=C

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.09) kg

= 1.81 kg

Actual Cpd

= Total Cpd + 7% wastage

= (1.81 + 7%)
= 1.94 kg

So, the fabric consumption for mens T-shirt is 1.94 kg per

dozen.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Here,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer)

body

collar (12pcs)

400

cuff (12 x 2)

300

b) Sewing & seam allowance

c) Wastage %

7%

d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)

Measurement Chart:

145 150

1.50 3cm

Parts Name

Given

Estimated

a) Chest

96 cm

102 cm

b) HPS

65 cm

70 cm

c) Sleeve length

20 cm

25 cm

d) Arm hole

46 cm

49 cm

e) Collar length

46 cm

46 cm

f) Collar width

7 cm

10 cm

g) Cuff length

26 cm

10 cm

h) cuff width

3 cm

5cm

A) Cpd (body)

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg
10000000
= 70 x 102x 12 x 150

kg

10000000
= 1.28 kg

B) Cpd (Sleeve)

= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
10000000

= 25 x 49 x 12 x 2 x 150 kg
10 7

= 0.44 kg
C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400

kg

107
= 0.22 kg

C) Cpd (Collar) = L x W x 12 x GSM kg

107
= 46 x 10 x 12 x 400

kg

107
= 0.22 kg

D) Cpd (Cuff)

= L x W x 12 x 2 x GSM kg
107
= 30 x 5 x 12 x 2 x 300

kg

10 7
= 0.108 kg

So, total Cpd

=A+B+C+D

= (1.28 + 0.44 + 0.22 + 0.108) kg

= 2.05kg

Actual Cpd

= 2.05 kg + 7%

= 2.19 kg

So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen polo shirt is 2.19 kg.

Consumption Calculation for 1 dozen Trouser:

For Trouser,
a) G.S.M. (given by buyer)

180 - 250

b) Sewing & seam allowance

1.50 3cm

c) Wastage %

7%

d) Measurement chart (given by buyer)

Measurement Chart:

Parts Name

Given

Estimated

a) Waist

112 cm

114 cm

b)Side seam
(length)

107 cm

114 cm

c) Thigh (width

66 cm

72 cm

d) Front rise

28 cm

e) Back rise

36 cm

f)Leg Opening
(bottom)

46 cm

Cpd

= L x W x 12 x GSM kg
107
= 114 x 2 x 72 x 12 x 200 kg
107

= 3.93 kg

Actual Cpd

= (3.93 + 7%) kg

= 4.2 kg

So, fabric consumption for 1 dozen Trouser is 4.2 kg.

COSTING:
Coat a price for 1 dozen Mens T-shirt:
Pre-requisites:
Unit price

Costing

1. Fabric consumption 2 kg/dz

$5.0/kg

2. Accessories

$2/dz

3. CM(cost of manufacturing)
$2/dz

A) Direct cost (raw materials)

B) Indirect cost (15% to 20% of direct cost)

= $2.8
Total

= $14.0 + $2.8
= $16.8

C) Profit @5% = $16.8 x 5%

$2/dz

$2/dz

Total

Indirect cost = $14.0 x 20%

$10/kg

$14

$14.0

= @0.84

Therefore, total cost

= $16.8 + $0.84

= $17.64
= $18

So, the cost for 1 dozen means T-shirt is $18

Cost a price for 1 dozen Polo shirt:

Pre-requisites
Unit price
1. Fabric consumption 2.7 kg/dz
$13.5

Cost
$5.0/dz

2. Accessories
$2.5

$2.5/dz

3. CM

$4-6/dz
Total

$5
$21

A) Direct cost (raw material)

B) Indirect cost

= $21

= 15% - 20% of direct cost

= $21 x 20%
= $4.2

Total cost

=A+B
= $21 + $4.2
= 25.2

C) Profit at 5%

= $25.2 x 5%
= $26.46
= $26.5

The total cost for 1 dozen polo shirt is $26.5

`Comparison between basic

structures of weft knitted fabric

Structur

Plain

1x1 Rib

1x1 Purl

Interlock

e
Property
Appearan

Different on

Same on

Same on

Same on

ce

face and

both sides,

both

both sides,

back; V-

like face of

sides, like

like face of

shapcs on

plain.

back of

plain.

face, arcs

plain.

on back
Extensibil

Moderate

Moderate

Very high

Moderate

ity

(10-20%)

Very high

Lengthwi

High (30-

(50-100%)

High

Moderate

se

50%)

High

Very high

Moderate

Widthwis

Moderate-

e Area

high
Much

Very much Very much

warmer

thicker and

thicker

thicker

than plain

warmer

and

and

woven

than plain

warmer

warmer

made from

woven

than plain

than plain

woven

woven

Either end

Only from

Thickness Thicker and

and
Warmth

same yarn
Unroving

Curting

End-uses

Either end

Only from
end kitted

end

last

knitted

Tendency to

No

No

No

curl

tendency

tendency

tendency

to curl

to curl

to curl

Ladies

Socks,

Childrens

Underwear

stockings,

cuffs,

clothing,

, shirts,

fine

waistbands

knitwear,

suits,

cardigans,

, collars,

thick and

trouser

mens and

mens

heavy

suits,

ladies

outerwear,

shirts,

knitwear,

dresses,

underwear.

basc fabric
for coating

outerwear

sportswear
, dresses.

Knowledge about faults

Askewed or Bias: condition where filling yarns are not square
with warp yarns on woven fabrics or where courses are not
square with wale lines on knits.
Back Fabric Seam Impression: backing fabric is often used
to cushion fabric being printed. If there is a joining seam in the
backing fabric, an impression will result on printed fabric.
Barre : occurs in circular knit. Caused by mixing yarn on feed
into machine. Fabric will appear to have horizontal streaks.
Birdseye: caused by unintentional tucking from malfunctioning
needle. Usually two small distorted stitches, side by side. This
term should not be confused with birdseye fabric which is in
fact created intentionally.
Bowing: Usually caused by finishing. Woven filling yarns lien
in an arc across fabric width: in knits the course lines lie in an
arc across width of goods. Critical on stripes or patterns and
not as critical on solid color fabrics.
Broken Color Pattern: Usually caused by colored yarn out of
place on frame.
Color Out: the result of color running low in reservoir on
printing machine.
Color Smear: The result of color being smeared during
printing.

Crease Mark: differs from crease streak in that streak will

probably appear for an entire roll. Crease mark appears where
creases are caused by fabric folds in the finishing process. On
napped fabric, final pressing may not be able to restore fabric
or original condition. Often discoloration is a problem.
Crease Streak: Occurs in tubular knits. Results from creased
fabric passing through squeeze rollers in the dyeing process.
Drop Stitches: results from malfunctioning needle or jack.
Will appear as holes or missing stitches.
Dye Streak in Printing: Results from a damaged doctor blade
or a blade not cleaned properly. Usually a long streak until the
operator notices the problem.
End Out: Occurs in Warp knit. Results from knitting machine
continuing to run with missing end.
Hole: caused by broken needle.
Jerk-in : caused by an extra piece of filling yarn being jerked
part way into the fabric by the shuttle. The defect will appear
at the selvage.
Knots : caused by tying spools of yarn together.
Missing Yarn : Occurs in warp knit. Reuslts from wrong fiber
yarn (or wrong size yarn) placed on warp. Fabric could appear
as thick end or different color if fibers have different affinity for
dye.
Mixed End (yarn) : Yarn of a different fiber blend used on the
warp frame, resulting in a streak in the fabric.
Mottled : Color applied unevenly during printing.
Needle Line : Caused by bent needle forming distorted
stitches. Usually a vertical line.

Open Reed : results from a bent reed wire causing warp ends
to be held apart, exposing the filling yarn. Will be conspicuous
on fabrics that use different colored yarns on warp and shuttle.
Pin Holes : Holes along selvage caused by pins holding fabric
while it processes through tenter frame.
Press-Off : results when all or some of the needles on circular
knitting fail to function and fabric either falls off the machine or
design is completely disrupted or destroyed. Many knitting
needles are broken and have to be replaced when bad pressoff occurs. Bad press-offs usually start a new roll of fabric.
Printing Machine Stop : Dye or ink smudged along width of
fabric as a result of the printing machine stopping.
Print Out of Repair : Caused by print rollers not being
synchronized properly. This results in various colors of the
design not being printed in the proper position.
Puckered Selvage : Usually caused by selvage being
stretched in finishing or by uneven wetting out in sanforization
process.
Runner : caused by broken needle. The runner will appear as
vertical line. Most machines have a stopping device to stop the
machine when a needle breaks.
Sanforize Pucker : Results from uneven wetting out on
sanforize; usually caused by defective spray heads. Fabric will
appear wavy or puckering when spread on cutting table.
Difficult to detect while inspecting on inspection machine with
fabric under roller tension.
Scrimp : the result of fabric being folded or creased when
passing through tenter frames.
Slub (woven fabric) : usually caused by an extra piece of
yarn that is woven into fabric. It can also be caused by thick

places in the yarn. Often is caused by fly waste being spun in

yarn in the spinning process.
Slub (Knit fabric) : Usually caused by a thick or heavy place
in yarn, or by ling getting onto yarn feeds.
Smash : caused by a number of ruptured warp ends that have
been repaired.
Soiled Filling or End : Dirty, oily looking spots on the warp or
filling yarns, or on packaged-dyed yarn.
Stop Mark : when the loom is stopped, the yarn elongates
under tension; when the loom starts again, the slack is woven
into the fabric.
Straying End : Warp Knit. Caused when an end of yarn
breaks and the loose end strays and is knit irregularly into
another area.
Thin Place: often caused by the filling yarn breaking and the
loom continuing to run until the operator notices the problem.
Water Spots : Usually caused by wet fabric being allowed to
remain too long before drying: color migrates leaving blotchy
spots.