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#1
12-07-2011, 06:01 PM
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Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
Aug 2011
Grand Rapids, MI
271
'00 540i, '89 Iroc
18 Color Rubber
Bands Bracelet Hand...
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
$15.60
AliExpress.com
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
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#2
12-07-2011, 06:23 PM
Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
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Step 4: Once you have gotten the 2 halves apart, you'll need to remove 8 Torx screws that hold
the cluster to the back housing, they're circled in red. One thing you'll want to watch out for is
the little square of plastic that shows what gear you're in, falling out. It's not held in at all. It's
in the green square. Remove it and put it somewhere safe for reassembly.
For this next part you'll likely need a dental pick or a long very flat but stout utensile to close up
the clips on the 3 plugs on the back of the gauge cluster. The Blue, white and black plugs seen
here are where the clips are located.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
And here is what the clips look like so you can have a mechanical understanding of how they
work. Look closely at the blue and white plugs here; the retainer clips need to be pushed in
while, again, exerting pressure on the housing - pulling it and the gauge cluster apart. I found it
easier to do the black plug first then pull apart as you sequentially push in the clips on the blue
and white. The whole assembly should then pop apart. Don't forget to pop the clips under the
LCD display with zip ties. See below image from Burnout187
Step F: Now that we've removed the front lens and the rear housing, you're left with the cluster
only. Seen here is our quarry, these 4 little Torx screws are what need to come out so you can
install your ~$20 flex cable. But how do you get to them? From the other side of course!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Going from left to right these are the exact locations of the holes. Mark them with a permanent
marker as you go. Use a drill bit no bigger than 1/4" to drill these holes, and in fact I think I
used 3/16". And remember that the torx screws are only about 1/4" below the surface of the
white plastic you're about to drill through.
Note the exaxct location here, right on the edge of the clear plastic circle that has ridges in it,
DIRECTLY below and offset 1/8" to the right of the "0" (10 mpg)
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Self explanatory
Lastly, this one is again, directly on the edge of the clear plastic circle piece with ridges in it.
Located directly under the H in MPH
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Step 7: I used a drill press with a towel on the metal table. I'm kinda conscious about static
charges since I am supposed to work on an anti-static bench at work with a wrist strap and
everything. MAKE SURE THAT YOU LIFT UP ON THE PLASTIC OVERLAY BEFORE YOU DRILL YOUR
HOLES UNDER THE SPEEDOMETER AND TACH, DO NOT DRILL THROUGH IT!
I drilled my holes and unscrewed the torx screws. You'll need a small flat blade screw driver to
pry apart the white LCD housing from the circuit board. It's better to use a plastic non-marring
tool if you have one but just be careful not to exert too much pressure as you can crack the
circuit board or slip and knock off some resistors or cut a trace that goes to an integrated
circuit.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
This is your reward after you've unscrewed everything and pried the LCD off the board, you'll
notice that there are 3 metal legs that you need to be careful not to bend, that can be seen in
the picture. They're what goes through the circuit board and supplies power to the backlights for
the LCD readout.
Now you can separate the old flex cable from the LCD and the main circuit board. Just pull, it'll
leave behind residue that needs to be cleaned off. I found that my plastic non-marring tool
worked great on the LCD side seen here. DO NOT USE ANYTHING OTHER THAN PLASTIC ON THE
LCD TO SCRAPE THE RESIDUE OFF!
On the circuit board side I scraped for what felt like forever to get the traces cleaned off, then I
grabbed some ~600 grit emery paper and did a light pass to ensure all traces of the gunk from
the old cable was gone. AGAIN, DO NOT SAND THE LCD WITH EMERY PAPER, ONLY THE
CIRCUIT BOARD'S TRACES ARE TOUCHED WITH THE EMERY PAPER!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Here you can see that after scraping the gunk off with my plastic tool and then lightly rubbing
the traces with the pictured emery paper, all traces on the circuit board look pristine.
Also notice the new flex cable at bottom, and the old one still attached to the LCD, you can see
what was left behind on the circuit board, the broken traces are what caused the pixel readout
to not work.
Another picture of the original cable and the new cable with the LCD
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Now we need to attend to the whole stupid reason you're doing this in the first place. That white
housing. Notice here the 3 Red sections and the single long pink section of silicone gel. Yah,
those are why you're doing this. I reasoned though, that only the red ones were causing the
issue.
So to remedy the issue I used some heavy cloth tape called Gaffer's tape. This will add enough
height to the area where the flex cable is sandwiched between the white housing and the circuit
board. You do not need to increase the height of the pink silicone strip in my opinon. You run
the risk of cracking the LCD when you reclip the cover over the LCD.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Well, now you're almost done. All you need to do is reattach the LCD assembly to the flex cable
with some scotch tape, take your time, and get it lined up perfectly. Screw down the assembly
snug (don't overtighten or you'll crack the plastic holes!) once you have it all clipped back
together and test the unit. The BEST piece of advice I can give you right here is do NOT
reassemble the whole unit. Just take the cluster only out to the car and plug 'er in. Make sure
your fingers are not touching the circuitry, and the circuit board isn't resting on the round metal
bar inside the dash, and turn the key.
Hopefully you see something like this
If you're successful and you can now read your message center, go ahead and clip everything
back together and reinstall the cluster pod in the dash.
I got mine done in only a few hours. It probably took me as long to put together this writeup as
it did to do the repair. And it only cost me about $20!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Now I get to look at this when I get in the car, before I had NO idea what the message center
was telling me haha
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#3
12-07-2011, 07:13 PM
f355spider
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#4
12-07-2011, 07:44 PM
Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
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'00 540i, '89 Iroc
I am also Dutch and I have worked around electronics for 23 years. So the cheap-skate in me
makes me do DIY stuff, and the electronics background makes me not scared of these kinds of
things.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
#5
12-07-2011, 07:56 PM
dareckibmw
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#6
12-07-2011, 08:11 PM
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mnkeith
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'99 540iT
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#7
12-07-2011, 08:13 PM
Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
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Haha, it took me about 2 hours when I did it the first time. And stop by whenever.
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#8
12-07-2011, 08:24 PM
dareckibmw
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Haha, it took me about 2 hours when I did it the first time. And stop by whenever.
PM'ed you
Thanks,
Darek
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Jan 2010
Romeoville, IL
685
'99 540i/6 (sold)
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#9
12-07-2011, 09:56 PM
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mifesto
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princeton, nj
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i gotta do the MID repair as my winter project. your DIY on the cluster really gave me
confidence to jump head first into the MID(which is easier fix)
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#10
12-07-2011, 10:06 PM
jamesdc4
BMWCCA 484984
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no and then!
Posts # 2 and 3 quote before deletion. I want to keep the OP's two posts together.
BTW, excellent job, Brad.
Last edited by jamesdc4; 12-07-2011 at 10:08 PM.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Jan 2007
West Michigan
14,432
98 540iA (Prd
11/97)
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#11
12-07-2011, 10:06 PM
chillax5
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The only scary thing is you gotta drill the holes. I will live without some pixels for now.
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#12
12-07-2011, 11:48 PM
JaimeZX
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AWESOME writeup!! If I ever have to accomplish this I'll be glad for your work.
If I can make one small suggestion? Edit your original post and throw a carriage return every
20-25 words or so?
That'll make so people don't have to scroll side-to-side to read things.
Thanks again!
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#13
12-08-2011, 11:26 AM
dcroghan
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I really need to do this and I will probably tackle it over the Christmas holiday.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
Aug 2005
STL
1,657
98 540i/6
do you happen to have a link to the strip that I need to buy? Don't want to get the wrong one.
Awesome write-up btw!
Edit- I bought the ribbon!!! I ended up going with the slightly more expensive one from the
recommendation in the m5 board write up as it supposedly comes with a 10 page instruction
manual and a great video instruction.
Hope I don't screw the whole thing up!! LOL!
Last edited by dcroghan; 12-08-2011 at 01:11 PM.
Dinan CAI | Dinan MAF | Dinan Exhaust | Dinan Stage 4 Engine Software | 19" Staggered M Par
Reps | Rear Lip Spoiler |
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#14
12-08-2011, 11:43 AM
koewnie
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Hey. Im also dutch. If ur not to far away i would like to see if u can do mine.
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#15
12-08-2011, 12:01 PM
jamesdc4
BMWCCA 484984
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West Michigan
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98 540iA (Prd
11/97)
AWESOME writeup!! If I ever have to accomplish this I'll be glad for your work.
If I can make one small suggestion? Edit your original post and throw a carriage return every 2025 words or so?
That'll make so people don't have to scroll side-to-side to read things.
Thanks again!
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
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#16
12-08-2011, 12:33 PM
JaimeZX
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#17
12-08-2011, 01:02 PM
84318i
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Yep, exactly what I did too. The worst part was getting the new cable to line up and make good
contact. I think you are supposed to use a special heating gun/station to attach the ribbon to
the glass but this method of using tape sometimes works as well
Also, talking to the guy that fixes these there are crappy/cheap cables on ebay and not all are
of the same quality. just an fyi
Good work!
Last edited by 84318i; 12-08-2011 at 01:03 PM.
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
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#18
12-08-2011, 01:37 PM
arbuckle
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You Da Man!
You Da Man!
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#19
12-09-2011, 07:50 AM
TDIpower
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#20
12-10-2011, 03:16 PM
Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
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Hey. Im also dutch. If ur not to far away i would like to see if u can do mine.
Where are you located? I think I have Dareck coming up from Chicago next weekend to do his.
Last edited by Black540Msport; 12-11-2011 at 02:52 PM.
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#21
12-10-2011, 04:06 PM
Gumbi4u
Status Quo!
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http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
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Pull n Release
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#22
12-10-2011, 07:59 PM
Kevin Da Clean1
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Black540Msport,
You are a brave man & like many others have said excellent work & write-up...
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#23
12-11-2011, 02:54 PM
Black540Msport
I punch my coffee
Thank
things
things
added
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you everyone. I will probably go back over this with a fine toothed comb and update
where I see fit/necessary. I'd like to even include short videos of some of the tougher
like getting those stupid cross/x posts undone. We'll see where this goes. Hopefully it gets
to the DIY sticky.
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12-11-2011, 07:20 PM
http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1754837-My-E39-Pixel-Repair[17-04-2015 15:04:52]
#24
E39 6spd
Banned
Feb 2010
East Coast, USA
334
540i 6spd (11/98)
You could make money providing this service to others. Please consider if you are willing to
provide this service. If so, please PM me or post so we can discuss the details.
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#25
12-12-2011, 01:24 AM
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Adventman
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Vancouver, BC
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Great write-up, i ordered my cable tonight. One question though: is cellophane tape really
adequate for attaching the ribbon? After time i've noticed that the glue can break down. Is there
a certain product you prefer, like 3M maybe?
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