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Moscow
June - July 2015
More than
11 years
in Russia!
inyourpocket.com
N38
Moscow meets
summer
Zamoskvorechye
and Pokrovka
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Foreword
In the News
Public transport
City Basics
Language
Features
What to see
36
Pokrovka & Zamoskvorechye 16
The Kremlin
36
110th anniversary of Metropol Hotel 20
River cruises
37
The Russian beer revolution 32
Churches
and
monasteries
38
Hidden museums 46
Modern art centres
38
Travel feature: Oryol 60
Museums 39
Russian history in short 61
Russian icons
40
Where to eat
22
Parks and gardens
42
Russian summer menu
23
Writers museums
43
Food from former republics
24
Gorky Park & Vorobyevy Gory
44
Summer terraces
31
Where to stay
48
Nightlife
33
Shopping
50
Dance and drink the night away
Russian souvenirs
50
Shopping centres
51
Business directory
53
54
56
57
St. Petersburg
58
62
66
67
June - July 2015
Foreword
In the News
Moscow Marathon
E S S E N TI A L
Cover story
Gorky Park is Moscows biggest playground for kids and
adults. Theres so much to do but so little time - let our
in-depth guide help you make the most of your day
there! Go to page 44 to learn more!
About IYP
RUSSIA
LATVIA
LITHUANIA
BELARUS
NETHERLANDS
BELGIUM
POLAND
UKRAINE
GERMANY
CZECH
REPUBLIC
AUSTRIA
SWITZERLAND
ITALY
HUNGARY
SLOVENIACROATIA
BOSNIA SERBIA
MONTENEGRO
ROMANIA
GEORGIA
BULGARIA
FYR MACEDONIA
ALBANIA
GREECE
DUTCH
CARIBBEAN
SOUTH
AFRICA
Geeky is the new cool and Geek Picnic (June 13-14 in Moscow and June 20-21 in Saint Petersburg) is proof of that. An
independent Russian project created severals years ago by
enthusiasts who believe that the future is here and now, this
years Geek Picnic is set to be bigger than ever and aims to
explore the theme of global cyborgization. Ethical, technological and scientific questions will be discussed and the
highlight of the event will be Russias first ever gathering of
people who have prosthetic limbs to share their knowledge
and experience! Other big names such as Victoria Modesta,
Neil Harbisson, Jens Naumann and Jason Barnes are set to
take to the stage. www.msk.geek-picnic.ru
ESTONIA
NORTHERN
IRELAND
IRELAND
Technology, science
and the arts
Russia day
o
:
, 196084 -
. . 25, . .
. : + 7 (812) 448 88 65
: + 7(812) 448 88 64
.
16 .
,
191024, -, .
, . 17.
No26829
No. 2-6849 17.10.03
-
.
60 000 . No38.
01.06.2015
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
June 12 is another opportunity to relax and enjoy the Russian lifestyle. The day officially celebrates the Russian Federation declaring independence from the Soviet Union back in
1990 but most Russians seem to agree that this is more a
pretext for enjoying summer rather bearing a deeper, political meaning. Concerts and fireworks are the order of the
day, accompanied by good friends and the obligatory toasts.
Government awards are also given out on this day as Russians celebrate what it means to be Russian.
June - July 2015
Aeroexpress Trains
All international airports in Moscow have a fast train
connection to the capitals city centre. All? Yes, all!
Aeroexpress trains run between Belorussky Rail Terminal and Sheremetyevo airport, Kievsky Rail Terminal
and Vnukovo airport, and Paveletsky Rail Terminal
and Domodedovo airport. Each rail terminal is connected via the metro circle line. It takes 35-45 minutes
to get to the airports from the centre of Moscow.
Aeroexpress tickets can be bought at Aeroexpress ticket
counters or at automatic machines in the rail terminals,
through the websites of partner airlines, travel agencies,
and via air ticket agencies, either in Moscow, or indeed
almost any other region of Russia. A list of sales outlets
can be found on the companys website where you can
purchase e-tickets using Visa, MasterCard, or PayPal. You
can buy an electronic ticket from the official website
www.aeroexpress.ru/en where you can also view
train timetables. Download their free mobile app and
you will be able to purchase Aeroexpress tickets using
your smartphone with no need to print out the ticket:
the turnstiles at the airport are able to read the tickets
QR-code directly from your smartphone/tablet screen.
If you are a Master Card PayPass or VISA PayWave holder, you can easily pay for the
fare directly at the turnstiles
Aeroexpress.
The Aeroexpress hotline is
(+7) 800 700 33 77 (calls
from within Russia are free).
Arriving by train
Arriving in Russia by rail is a great experience, and
whether you are coming from east or west, north or
south, Moscows many train stations are always bustling
with travelers about to embark on long journeys.Those
arriving very early in the morning to the stations around
Komsomolskaya ploschad (Leningradsky, Kazansky and
Yaroslavsky - usually hubs for travel from central Siberia,
the Urals and St. Petersburg) would be advised to get a
taxi rather than wait for the metro to open as the area
can be rather dangerous at night.
Belorussky Station
Trains go from here to Berlin, Warsaw, Minsk, Vilnius, Kaliningrad, and Sheremetyevo Airport via the Aeroexpress
train.QA-1, Tverskaya Zastava pl. 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 251 60 93, www.belorusskiy.railclient.ru.
Kazansky Station
Gateway to the East, trains run to Kazan, Tashkent, Samara, Ulan-Ude and beyond.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl.
2, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 499 266 31 81, www.
kazanskiy.railclient.ru.
Kievsky Station
Besides Kiev, destinations include Odessa, Budapest, Bucharest, Kishenev, as well as Vnukovo airport via the Aeroexpress.Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 1, MKievskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 240 04 15, www.kievskiy.railclient.ru.
Kursky Station
For destinations in south west Russia and Ukraine, including Rostov-on-Don and Belgorod.QE-2/3, Ul. Zemlyanoy
Val 29, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495 266 53 10, www.
kursky-vokzal.ru.
Leningradsky Station
Hub for trains going north to Helsinki, Tallinn and St. Petersburg, including the Sapsan express.QE-1, Komsomolskaya
pl, 3, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 495 262 91 43, www.
leningradskiy.railclient.ru.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Paveletsky Station
For trains to Domodedovo Airport via the Aeroexpress , or further afield into south east Russia.QD-5, Paveletskaya pl. 1,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 235 05 22, www.paveleckiy.
railclient.ru.
Rizhsky Station
Destinations include Riga or elsewhere in Latvia.QD-5,
Rizhskaya pl. 1, MRizhskaya, tel. (+7) 495 631 15 88,
www.rijskiy.railclient.ru.
Yaroslavsky Station
The starting point for your Trans-Siberian adventure, trains
go to Beijing, Ulan Bator and Siberian destinations such as
Irkutsk on Lake Baikal and Russias most easterly destination, Vladivostok.QE-1, Komsomolskaya pl. 5, MKomsomolskaya, tel. (+7) 800 775 00 00.
Public Transport
The quickest method of public transport in Moscow is the
metro. With no more than 3 minutes passing between
each train, passengers barely get a chance to marvel at the
beautiful architecture inside many stations. Buying a ticket
is very easy, either a single from the automatic machine, or
multiple rides from the ticket office. Tickets cost 50Rbl. On
the more modern trains, there is an electronic sign in each
carrige announcing the next station. In the older carriages,
however, it is simply a voiceover, which can be difficult to
hear in rush hour, so if you arent familiar with Moscows
many stations, it is best to count the number of stops you
need to go.
Trams, buses and trolleybuses all use the same tickets as
the metro. tramlines run all over the city and are very easy
to navigate, though perhaps slightly less punctual than the
metro. Buses and trolleybuses are also very straightforward,
with the routes and destinations displayed in the windows
and an electronic, scrolling banner with the name of the
next stop inside,
Last but not least: marshrutkas. A marshrutka may take
some getting used to for a newcomer to Moscow. What can
look like slightly dodgy minibuses are actually a legitimate
form of transport with fixed routes. Passengers can ask the
driver to stop by shouting ostanovite pazhalsta! anywhere
along the route to let them out. The average cost is 50Rbl
- be sure to have some small change on you when taking a
marshrutka as a driver will not take kindly to a 1000Rbl note!
Car Rental
Avis Russia Car Rental
AVIS has offices in Sheremetyevo and Domodedovo airports,
as well as at Leningradsky Railway station and on 4-y Dobryninsky per. 8, office 122 (near metro station Oktyabrskaya).Qtel.
(+7) 495 988 62 16, www.avisrussia.ru. Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Hertz
Hertz has 11 rental locations in Moscow, including an outlet at Sheremetyevo-1,2, Vnukovo and Domodedovo airports operating from 09:00 - 21:00. Its possible to collect
a car outside of these hours, it incurs additional charges.
Qtel. (+7) 495 775 83 33, www.hertz.ru. A
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Taxis
Taxis in Moscow can be relatively cheap compared to other
Western capitals. If you phone a legitimate taxi company,
youll be quoted an exact price for the journey.
Angel Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 956 08 00, www.angel-taxi.com
English-speaking operators and drivers in Moscows premier 24/7 taxi dispatching per-km service with over 1300
drivers in Moscow.
New Moscow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 780 67 80, www.newmoscowtaxi.ru
New Yellow Taxi, tel. (+7) 495 940 88 88, www.nyt.ru
TaxiEscort, tel. (+7) 495 622 20 20, www.taxiescort.ru
Taxi Shanson, tel. (+7) 495 225 31 31, www.tshanson.ru
XXL taxi, tel. (+7) 495 995 82 94, www.xxltaxi.ru
Its also accepted practice to hail down random cars and
negotiate even cheaper prices for rides across the city. To
indicate youre looking for a lift, stick out your arm - palm
down. To foreigners, the practice may seem unsafe and it
is advisable to take caution by traveling with a companion and generally trusting your instinct. Mostly, drivers are
notorious for overcharging foreigners. A journey within the
city centre should cost between 250-500Rbl. Always agree
to a price in advance (Skolko?) and if the driver refuses,
slam the door and move on to the next Lada.
City Basics
Language
Be on guard!
useful phrases
Basic phrases
No/Yes
Hello
Goodbye
Thank you
Sorry/excuse me
Please
I don't understand
I don't speak
Russian
Do you speak
English?
Help!
I need some
help
I don't want
Registration
Remember that you must be registered within 7 days of
your arrival in Russia (excluding weekends and public holidays). Hotels are legally obliged to register you within 24
hours of arrival. Many travel agencies can also register you.
If you dont get registered on time, you can expect serious
problems when leaving, ranging from paying a fee, to missing your flight while officials interrogate you.
Money
The national currency is the rouble (Rbl). Banknotes come
in denominations of 50, 100, 500, 1,000 and 5,000. Rouble
coins come in 1, 2, 5 and 10Rbl. There are 100 kopeks to a
rouble and kopek coins come in 5, 10 and 50. Its illegal to
pay in dollars or euros. You can find ATMs at most metro
stations, banks and large hotels.
Foreigner Prices
The foreigner price is a hangover from the good old days
of Intourist-organised Soviet travel. At some theatres and
museums, foreigners are required to pay two to five times
more than the Russian price. Ouch! These institutions insist
that Russian tickets are subsidised with foreigners paying the
real price. If you have a document (propusk), which says you
work or study in Russia, you can usually get the local price.
Climate
Temparature, oC Rainfall, mm
In June and July Moscow hits its stride with balmy temperatures ranging from the mid 20s to the low 30s. Hay fever suffers may struggle with the dusty air and high pollen
count which the summer weather brings with it. Sudden
storms and temperature drops at night mean that its best
to be prepared - think layers, an umbrella and a folding paper fan. And of course dont forget your sunglasses.
Rain (max)
Highest recorded temperature (oC)
Customs
For most travellers leaving Russia you will just need to go to the
GREEN (nothing to declare) channel and you do NOT need to
complete the Customs and Currency Declaration Statement
upon arrival or departure (unless you are carrying thousands
of dollars in cash with you). Any art works, icons etc that are
over 100 years old cannot be taken out of the country. If you
are in doubt about antiques you have bought get an experts
report, either from the Rosokhrankultura (Kitaigorodsky pr. 7,
bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 495 660 77 30) or an accredited shop. Travelling to most countries you can legally take 200 cigarettes and
2 litres of hard alcohol out with you. To some countries such as
Estonia, the allowance is less.
Mobile Phones
You can use your mobile phone from home if your provider
has a roaming agreement with a Russian mobile company.
To avoid roaming charges, you can get a Russian SIM card.
Youll need to bring your passport to the store to register
your new sim card.
Alcohol
The traditional Russian alcoholic drink is of course vodka.
The Poles may also claim that they invented it, but what
is certain is that the Russians - and in particular the scientist Mendeleev - are the ones who perfected the recipe.
Vodka is cheap and there are literally hundreds of brands to
choose from. The most traditional way to drink it is straight
as a shot, followed by a salty snack. Beer (pivo) is now the
most popular alcoholic drink in Russia and Sovietskoye
shampanskoye (Soviet champagne) is the national party
drink. Take note that you cannot buy alcohol in shops that
is above 0,5% between 22:00 and 11:00.
Post
Only believe half the stories you hear about Russias post
system. Mail may get detoured, but usually not lost. If
you need to get something in or out of the country in
a hurry, consider a courier service. A letter to Europe or
Australia takes around three weeks. In addition to these
offices below, you can also buy stamps from any post
office in Moscow and drop them into any dark blue post
box around the city.
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Net/da
Zdrastvuite
Dasvidaniya
Spasibo
Izvinite
Pazhalusta
Ya ne panimayu
Ya ne gavaryu
pa-russky
Vy gavaritye
pa-anglisky?
Pomogitye!
Mne nuzhna
pomoshch
Ya ne khachu
Mnye (ne)
I (don't) like it
nravitsa
May I?
Mozhno?
Do you have...?
U vas est?
I don't know
Ya ne znayu
How much is it? Skolko stoit?
It's expensive!
Eta dorogo!
Bolshoy/
Large/small
malenky
Khorosho/
Good/bad
plokho
It hurts!
Bolno!
Today
Sevodnya
Tomorrow
Zaftra
Could you write Zapishite
it down?
pazhalusta
Toilets
Tualet
Ostanavite
Stop here please
pazhalusta
When? At what Kogda? Vo
time?
skolko?
What time is it? Katory chas?
Who?
Kto?
How do you say Kak skazat eto
that in Russian? pa-russky?
No problem
Bez problem
Of course
Koneshno
Happy Holidays! S Praznikom!
Password
Parol
-
-?
!
()
?
...?
?
!
/
?
?
?
?
-?
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
alphabet
A
B
V
G
D
E
YO
ZH
Z
I
Y
K
L
M
N
O
P
R
S
T
U
F
KH
TS
CH
SH
SHCH
Y
E
YU
YA
no sound
theatres
Bolshoi Theatre
QC-2, Teatralnaya pl. 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 499 455
55 55, www.bolshoi.ru.
electroTheater stanislavsky
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 699
72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru.
Helikon-Opera
QB-3, Ul. Novy Arbat 11, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
695 65 84, www.helikon.ru.
Maly Theatre
Q-2, Teatralny proezd 1, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
624 40 46, www.maly.ru. UK
Mayakovsky Theatre
QB-3, Bol. Nikitskaya ul. 19/13, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 46 58, www.mayakovsky.ru.
Moscow English Theatre
Qwww.moscowenglishtheatre.com. Different performance venues, check the website for details.
Natalia Sats childrens Music Theatre
QPr. Vernadskogo 5, MUniversitet, tel. (+7) 495 930 70
21, (+7) 965 302 27 80, www.teatr-sats.ru.
10 Moscow In Your Pocket
Sovremennik Theatre
QE-2, Chistoprudny bul. 19,, MChistye Prudy, tel.
(+7) 495 621 64 73, www.sovremennik.ru.
Stanislavsky and Nemirovich-Danchenko
Moscow Music Theatre
QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 17, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 723 73 25, www.stanmus.ru.
Taganka Theatre
QE-4, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 76/21, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 915 12 17, www.taganka.theatre.ru.
12.06 Friday
10:00 Children of Bodom
Are you ready to get your
moshing shoes out and
head bang like youre 15
again? Then Ray Just Arena
on June 12th is the place to
be because the strapping
Finnish legends from Children of Bodom are coming
back to town! The ability to
combine melody, extreme
brutality and drive has won
them a loyal fan following on both sides of the pond as
well as several gold and platinum albums. What makes
this show so special and unlike any of the others? This time
around, Russian fans get to vote for the songs they want
to hear live!QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg.
4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.cobhc.com.
Tickets 3,200 - 8,000Rbl.
28.06 Sunday
10:00 Papa Roach
To Russia, with love. And
rock. Papa Roach, one of
everyones favorite first rock
bands, which needs little introduction, is coming back
to the Motherland to present their new album F.E.A.R.
(Face Everything and Rise).
Papa Roach came into being during a very interesting
time music-wise, when NuMetal met Rapcore. Over the years the bands initial fans
grew and matured and the band did so with them, turning their sound more towards alternative metal. This tour
is not only a presentation of their new album, but a retrospective of their more than 20 year long career throughout
which the boys brought their energetic and dynamic live
shows to perfection.QRay Just Arena, Leningradsky pr.
31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665 99 99, www.
paparoach.com. Tickets 2,300 - 4,500Rbl.
29.06 Monday
11:00 Rise against
Party like its 1999 with Rise
Against on June 29th in Ray
Just Arena. Formed back in
1999 in Chicago by friends
Tim McIlrath and Joe Principe, Rise Against is not your
average punk rock band:
its a rare blend of aggressive yet melodic punk and
brutal hardcore with lyrics
laden with deep, thoughtprovoking meaning.The boys like to keep busy - this year
saw the release of their 7th studio with a grim title The
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Black Market. And what better reason to hit the road and
yet again, together with their fans, rise against all kinds of
social injustices while having fun?QRay just arena, Leningradsky pr. 31, bldg. 4, MDinamo, tel. (+7) 495 665
99 99, www.riseagainst.com. Tickets 2,200 - 10,000Rbl.
15.07 Wednesday
10:00 Kasabian
Back to Moscow again only after one year, we neednt further proof that Russia loves Kasabian and Kasabian loves
Russia. If last years performance at Subbotnik festival
is anything to go by, this British bands show is not going
to nothing short of grandiose, epic and mind-blowing undeniable proof that rock n roll is alive and kicking.
Kasabian is worth seeing this summer because theyre one
of those few rock bands that never stop developing and
surprising. Their last album is a true ode to the genre that
takes in and gives back the finest traditions of rock music
throughout the decades.QStadium Live, Leningradsky
pr. 80, bldg. 17, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 540 55 40, www.
stadium-live.ru. Tickets 3,000 - 1,200Rbl.
19.07 Sunday
10:00 Yann Tiersen
A French genius beloved by Russians, whose musical career has spanned almost 20 years, Yann Tiersens style is
so cinematographic that people often mistake him for a
sound track composer. And this confusion is easily understood, after all his earlier tracks feature on the cult classic Amelie soundtrack! And the multi-instrumentalist
composer is on his way back to Moscow to bring the local
crowd a delightfully unique mix of classical minimalism,
post-rock, folktronica and indie rock. Monsieur Tiersen
will be, in part, presenting his latest album Infinity which
means that this time around his show will be more vocaland guitar-heavy.QYotaspace (Glavclub), ul. Ordzhonikidze 11, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 230 10 30,
www.yanntiersen.bzh. Tickets 2,000 - 5,000Rbl.
11
Electrotheater
Stanislavsky
The new and improved Stanislavsky
Theater, which opened
its doors on Moscows
central
Tverskaya
Street at the start of
the year, now goes
by the name Electrotheater. It is simply
homage to one of the
Photo by Andrey Bezukladnikov first pre-revolutionary
Russian movie theaters Electrotheater Ars that occupied the same building in 1915. The best traditions of a
fashionable movie theater, a dramatic opera studio and
the influence of the famous Russian director Konstantin
Stanislavsky all these factors intertwine to make this
theater truly unique in the capitals cultural scene. The
theaters current art director Boris Yukhananov is also
determined to combine truly avantgarde traditions
with classical Russian theater art. Despite this drive for
innovation and transformation, Electrotheater Stanislavksy carefully sticks to the traditions of Russias dramatic theater. Here is a brief breakdown of what guests
can expect to enjoy this summer.
The Drillalians, director Boris Yukhananov
The main premiere of the summer is the opera series
The Drillalians (with English subtitles) which will be
presented over 5 evenings! This one is not to be missed
as it will beautifully introduce the theaters new direction
and the art directors vision for the future of this cultural
establishment. June 8, 9, 15, 16, 22, 23, 29, 30; July 6, 7.
Blue Bird, director Boris Yukhananov
Spread over 3 evenings, this moving trilogy has barely any
singing but plenty of speech. The theaters and indeed the
entire countrys history will be portrayed in a Broadway-like
manner but with the same depth of multi-volume philosophical fairytale for adults. July 25, 26, 27, 29, 30, 31.
The Human Use of Human Beings, director Romeo
Castellucci
Romeo Castelluccis short play based on Giottos fresco
The Resurrection of Lazarus employs the language
of Generallissimo and symbols that will keep viewers
on the edge of their seats. Watch a giant wheel move
around the theater, followed by a smell of ammonia
and the singing of Alexey Tegin, the start of post-perestroikas underground. July 18, 19, 20.
The Bacchae, director Theodoros Tersopulos
A theatrical masterpiece by Theodoros Terzopoulos, The
Bacchae tells the ancient myth about a ruler who decided to equate himself to God and ended up being torn
apart by bacchae in the mountains. July 11, 12, 13.
QB-2, Tverskaya ul. 23, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 699 72 24, www.electrotheatre.ru. Tickets 300 3,000Rbl. See the full schedule online.
June - July 2015
13
kostroma show
Exhibitions
01.06 monday - 28.06 sunday
Children of the World Depict War.
But is it War they Dream about?
Children see the world
and the things that happen around us through
a different perspective.
And while no child should
ever witness war, unfortunately, it has happened all
too often throughout history. Moscows All-Russian
Decorative Art Museum
presents a special exhibition in honor of the 70th anniversary of the victory in
World War II and Childrens Day on June 1 with an exhibition called Children of the World Depict War. But is it
War they Dream about?. It brings together more than
100 graphic works created by children from Russia, Spain,
China, Germany, the USA, the UK, France and Japan in the
1930s and 1940s. The sheer geographic scope of such a
project has no equals and allows visitors to see the scale
of the humanitarian tragedy of WW2 through the eyes
of children.QC-1, All-Russian Decorative Art Museum,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
Children till 7 years old entrance free.
14 Moscow In Your Pocket
arkhangelskoe
through 01.06.2016 Wednesday
In a carriage and horseback
Wondering what activity would be perfect for the
whole family this May? You
dont need to look much
further than just outside the
MKAD (Moscows outer ring
road) for some good old
educational outdoors fun!
Head on down to the 18th-century estate, sometimes
also referred to as Russias Versailles, on May 16th for
the yearly grand re-opening of the complex that will be
marked by the exhibition In a carriage and horseback
dedicated to royal horse-drawn carriages that belonged
to the respected Yusupov family. The two carriages that
will be presented have been fully restored and are ready
to amaze history lovers and those just looking for something different. One of the carriages was made in Germany in the 1720s and the other belonged to empress
Catherine II. To fully immerse you in the fascinating
world of Russias royalty and elite, the exhibition will be
accompanied by a fascinating demonstration of rarities
like harnesses and other equestrian objects.
through 01.05.2016 Sunday
French Art at Arkhangelskoe
Visitors are invited to marvel
at the French Art at Arkhangelskoe exhibition. The
name is quite self-explanatory but heres a bit more as to
what you can expect to find.
This exhibition is the fruit of
the collaboration of three
Moscow museums: apart from pieces from Arkhangelskoes collection (one of the countrys best collections of late
XVII and early XIX century French art), five pieces from the
Pushkin museums and several items from the Ostankino
estate museum were contributed to the exhibition.The
Arkhangelskoye collection, acquired mostly by Prince Yusupov in the late XVII - early XIX century, boasts some impressive French landscapes including those by Claude Joseph Vernet and Pierre Jacques Volaire. Other masters you
will be able to marvel at include Charles Alphonse du Fresnoy, Francois Boucher and Louise lisabeth Vige Le Brun.
QState Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe, 5 km Ilinskoe Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60,
www.arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 21:00, Sat and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museum open
Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat and Sun and holidays
10:30 - 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed
of the month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, exhibition
100 - 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl.
June - July 2015
15
Features
Walking tour Pokrovka
POKROVKA &
ZAMOSKVORECHYE
Theres no better time than summer to
discover Russias beautiful capital by foot
and there are no better areas than Pokrovka
and Zamoskvorechye to soak in all the
history, culture and beauty that Moscow is
so famous for! Heres what there is to see,
do and taste in these two places.
16 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
was even frequented by Alexander Pushkin and Olga Pushkina for dance lessons. House number 38A was the main
city residence of nobles families like the Shuvalovs and
later Golitsyns (duchess Natalia Petrovna Golitsyna was the
inspiration for Pushkins Queen of Spades) and is one of
the most significant buildings in Moscow embodying the
period of early classicism.
Apart from soaking in history, Pokrovka is a street wellknown for culture, art and entertainment. For example, at
the very end of the street (house number 47/24) you will
find 35mm, Moscows premiere cinema for foreign language movies, art house films and festivals. Children and
adults alike would certainly enjoy a trip to the Museum of
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19
Features
Features
unique atmosphere. Each room tells its own story, as well
as the history of Moscow: Metropol windows offer a view
of the historic center of the capital Teatralnaya Square and
Manezhnaya Square, Bolshoi Theatre, Teatralny Proezd, Lubyanskaya Square, and the legendary Kremlin towers.
The unique Grand Suites of the Metropol Hotel combine
the luxury of the old times with modern technological solutions, ensuring the highest level of comfort. The beautiful
and spacious Grand Suites give a feeling of royal relaxation.
Guests who opt for these rooms can be absolutely sure to
have chosen the capitals chic at its best. The Grand Suite
consists of several rooms, separate bedrooms, comfortable
hallway. The windows open on the Manezhnaya Square,
Revolution Square and Teatralny Proezd. Antique furniture,
ancient sculptures and paintings emphasize the grandeur
of the apartments.
110th anniversary
of METROPOL
Weve had important businessmen and heads of state.
The presidents of France and Canada have stayed here. The
leader of North Korea stayed here in 2001. Weve also had
the honor of receiving royalty. For example, the Queen of
Spain, the Queen of the Netherlands, and the Duke of Luxembourg. The list is impressive.
Only a handful of hotels in Europe can boast such an impressive guest list but Moscows iconic Metropol Hotel, one
of the Russian capitals main attractions, can proudly do so.
This year, Metropol - one of the best hotels in the world
as confirmed by its famous guests, the likes of Arnold
Schwarzenegger, Sharon Stone, Michael Jackson and many
others is celebrating its 110th anniversary.
Built in 1905 at the initiative of the famous Russian merchant Savva Mamontov, the construction process involved
many the finest talents of the end of the XIX-beginning
of the XX centuries in the sphere of architecture, art and
sculpture. The most notable artistic contributions were
made by Mikhail Vrubel (the Princess of Dreams mosaic
panel) Alexander Golovin (the smaller ceramic panels) and
sculptor Nikolay Andreyev (the plaster friezes).
During the Silver Age, the Metropol was extremely popular among the creme de la creme of Russian cultural life.
The likes of the opera singer Fyodor Shalyapin, the famous ballerina Anna Pavlova and the poet Valery Bryusov
frequented the hotel during their stays in Moscow. In the
Soviet times several important events took place inside
20 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
And finally: the hotel has only two Presidential Suites because luxury cant be replicated. Luxury ceiling moldings,
bay windows with stained glass decorations, antique furniture, walls upholstered in silk the Presidential Suite is
spectacular. The spacious living room is fitted with furniture made of precious wood with carved lions and fauns,
a French mantel clock, a piano and a Venetian armchair. It
features a collection of artworks from the last three centuries and each item fits so perfectly that its impossible to
imagine it in any other surroundings. From these windows
the most famous people of the 20th century looked out at
the Teatralny Proezd, Tretyakovsky Proezd and Lubyanskaya
Square the almost 100sq meter Presidential Suites welcomed heads of foreign states, members of royal families,
film stars, and people of art. The Presidential Suites are even
equipped with saunas.
One does not have to be a guest at the Metropol Hotel to
enjoy this unique atmosphere and get immersed in history.
The legendary hotel in the heart of Moscow is also known
for the finest traditions of Russias cuisine enjoyed by locals
and visitors alike in one of its restaurants or bars.
Breakfast at the Metropol is rightfully considered most
exquisite and diverse in terms of the menu served in the
memorable entourage of Metropol Hall to the sounds of
the harp and fountain. Caviar and salmon pancakes, exotic fruits, porridges of several kinds, natural diary products,
poached eggs with smoked salmon and spinach, seasonal
berries, meats and a range of cheeses, bakery and many
other delights are among the treats served daily from 07:00
until 11:00.
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21
Where to eat
Where to eat
Asian and Indian
Bely Zhuravl
Possibly the best Korean food in Moscow is served up at this
simple restaurant and the portions are huge! Plenty of complimentary Korean pickled delights (including kimchi) are
provided to tide you over until the main dishes arrive. The
idea here is to bring a group of friends and share things out
between you as the soups, noodles and meat dishes come
by the kilo. Unfortunately the lack of English menu can
make it difficult to order if you are not familiar with Korean
cuisine, although there are at least pictures. Buzzers on the
tables also ensure dedicated service.QFrunzenskaya nab.
14, MPark Kultury, tel. (+7) 495 775 06 56, www.beliyjuravl.ru. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . PAVSW
Within the same Moscow city block you can find both good
and bad service, five-star fine dining and hot dog snack vans.
Muscovites love going out, so most restaurants tend to fill
up quickly. To be sure of getting a table, make sure to book
in advance. Be aware that many restaurants morph into bars
and clubs in the later hours of the evening, so make early reservations if you want some peace and quiet. Tipping is one
Western tradition that Russians are making their own. Tip for
good service only - around ten percent is considered fair.
Our price guide is based on the average price of
a main course:
- 0 - 400Rbl
400 - 800Rbl
800 - 1,200Rbl
1,200Rbl plus
SYMBOL key
P Air conditioning
E Live music
S Take away
T Child-friendly
G Non-smoking areas
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
W Wifi
Darbars
Superb view with superb food. Sure, Leninsky prospekt is
not the most central place in the city, but its worth the
trek to dine here, if you want a view to die for and some of
the best Indian food in the city! Darbars serves traditional
southern Indian cuisine and attracts a strong following of
faithful Indian expats. It is tastefully decorated in a minimal
style although if you prefer the style of your own sofa they
also can deliver their tasty Indian food to your door. Also
at Starosadsky per. 1 (metro Kitay Gorod).QHotel Sputnik,
Leninsky pr. 38, 16th floor, MLeninsky prospect, tel.
(+7) 495 930 29 25, www.darbar.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00.
. PAVSW
Tan
It can be hard to find a really good Chinese restaurant, not
just in Moscow, but in many cities. However Tan, just off Triumphalnaya Square, defies this. The menu boasts a huge
range of choice of high quality traditional Chinese, Japanese and Vietnamese dishes, more modern adaptations
and as a vast selection of teas. The service is impeccable,
the decor is oriental but comfortable, and the sophisticated yet relaxed atmosphere is enhanced by the house
pianist. This is the perfect venue to go to with a group of
friends, either after work, on the weekend or to celebrate
a special occasion and sample as many of the dishes as
possible.QB-1, Oruzheiny per. 13, bldg. 1, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 251 08 77, www.restorantan.ru. Open
24hrs. . PAGSW
Beer Restaurants
Kozlovica
Keep an eye to the sky to spot this traditional Czech pub
from the street. In this medieval hall with carved wooden
furniture, you will find no nonsense wholesome Czech
food, including the famous beer sausages, accompanied
by top quality authentic Czech beer, Velkopopovicky
Kozel, served at the optimum temperature of 10-12 degrees, at which the locals say it releases its true flavour.
QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 29, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 28 23, www.kozlovica.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 01:00. . PAVSW
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23
Where to eat
Pilsner Paveletskaya
Already seeing almost three million people through its
doors since its founding in 2005, the Pilzner chain has sold
a staggering 3,000 tons of local Czech beer. Head chef,
Robert Masopust, brings traditional meat heavy Czech
cuisine straight from Prague, where classic beer sausages dominate the menu, although a fine choice of other
specialties and large salads are on offer as well. Also at
Pokrovka 15/16 (Chistye Prudy), 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya
ul. 1 (Mayakovskaya), ul. Bol. Polyanka 44/2 (Polyanka),
Presnensky Val 4/29 (ul. 1905 goda).QD-5, Ozerkovskaya
nab. 56, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 951 86 33, www.
pilsner.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00. . PAGSW
Where to eat
cations have excellent street terraces including this one just
a short distance from Red Square, and all the LPQ (as they
are affectionately nicknamed by locals) also run great value
lunch deals on weekdays. Has numerous locations across
the city including at Evropeisky Shopping Centre, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala (metro Kievskaya), Pyatnitskaya ul. 6/1, bldg.
1 (metro Novokuznetskaya) and Lesnaya ul. 5 (metro Belorusskaya).QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 23:00. . PAGSW
Shtolle
Stolle does pies. Traditional old school Russian pies from old
recipes that are unlike any others found in the city. And they
do them well. Pies with chicken and fish fillings are scrumptious, in particular the herring (selyodka) one is amazing.
Its the one shaped like a fish. They also do a range of berry
filled pies and a small selection of salads and soups but the
pies receive top billing. Their takeaway service is almost as
popular as their sit down cafe. Also at Ul. Pokrovka 1 (metro
Kitay Gorod).QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3/4, bldg. 1, 2nd floor,
MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7) 499 922 16 07, www.stolle.
ru. Open 08.00 - 22:00. . PNGSW
Caucasian
Barashka
You fancy eating something other than European cuisine?
Try restaurant Barashka, where they serve excellent Azerbaijani food. The atmosphere is cozy, the staffs are friendly
and the dishes are undoubtedly of high quality. Traditional
dishes include grilled meat, fish and vegetables, and also
delicious starters such as qutab; thinly rolled dough filled
with either greens, pumpkin, meat or cheese. The restaurant is often busy and attracts both Russians as well as
people with roots in Azerbaijan.QA-3, Novy Arbat 21,
bldg. 1, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 37 30, www.
novikovgroup.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PAW
Gayanes
An informal restaurant serving real Armenian home food.
Great examples of the regions specialities can all be tasted here, like for example the flat stuffed breads zhingalov
khats and the delicious lamadjo as well as filling spiced
minced meatballs (kyufta). Matsoni (a kind of fermented
yoghurt sauce) is an essential accompaniment. The presence of numerous expatriated Armenians kicking back
and relaxing with fine cognac is a sure sign of Gayanes
authenticity. Adventurous diners may want to test themselves on the unusual khash soup made from various cow
bits and said to be the food of heroes. The street is located directly across the Garden ring from Smolenskaya (dark
blue line) metro station.QA-3, 2-y Smolensky per. 1/4,
MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 795 11 60, www.gayanes.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAVSW
Khachapuri
An inexpensive little Georgian caf with a minimalist interior
that shuns the usual plastic grapes and kitschy music in favour of bright New York loft style surroundings. The khachapuri (cheese bread) after which it is named, is quite OK and
in our book any place that will serve you Georgian cheese
bread with an egg on top for breakfast will always get a big
thumbs up. The shashlik (shish kebabs) comes accompanied
by plenty of greens and onions and is washed down nicely
with homemade fruit drinks.The tables are all cramped together giving the place a noisy diner feeling, complimented
by a particularly eclectic clientele. Also at Krivokolenny per.
10, bldg. 5 (metro Chistye Prudy) and Ukrainsky bul. 7 (metro
Kievskaya).QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00
- 01:00. Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . PAVEGSW
Noev Kovcheg
The rich traditional Armenian dcor, low lighting, and
even a pond of tropical fish Noev Kovcheg as a destination of Moscows finest. The venue was opened on the
17th of the 7th month - the day when Noahs ark is said
to have ran aground. The menu offers many classic shish
kebab dishes, backed up by a plethora of fine wines.QD-3,
Maly Ivanovsky per. 9, MKitai Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 917
07 17, www.noevkovcheg.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PAVGSW
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25
Where to eat
Looking for
expats,
tourists &
businesspeople?
Where to eat
Saperavi
Saperavi deals in contemporary Georgian cuisine in contemporary surroundings - no plastic grape vines and water
features here - instead its bright colours, stylish lighting,
comfy chairs and a little light house music. The menu does
hold good classics like an excellent meaty take on the classic red bean lobio and a very cheesy khachapuri (stuffed
cheese bread), but also adds its own twists on things, as
for example with the mint and cheese khachapuri. They
do an excellent job of explaining the ins and outs of all the
exciting dishes on offer and how best to accompany them
and if your here at a weekday lunch time the bounteous
meal deals are a steal. Add in thirst-quenching homemade
lemonades and reasonably priced wines and you are on
to a winner. They also have a restaurant on Pokrovka ul.
5, bldg. 5.Q-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul. 27, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 499 623 89 93, www.saperavicafe.
com. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 11:00 - 01:00. .
PAVGSW
European
Bjrn
As soon as the doors of Bjrn were opened to the Moscow
public the word spread very quickly. In the evenings this
laconic, nature-inspired and utterly Scandinavian place
has very few free tables. The secret to Bjrns success is, of
course, the typical contemporary Scandinavian approach
to gastronomy: an abundance of rich, imaginative flavors
harmonic with nature without any pretentiousness. The
head chef - straight from Denmark - ensures that everything guests taste is in complete accordance with the best
northern cuisines have to offer. Scandinavian specialties
such as venison, salmon, herring and cod taste even better with a friendly staff and a delightful northern drinks
menu!QD-4, Pyatnitskaya ul. 3, MNovokuznetskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 953 90 59, www.bjrn.ru. Open 12:00 23:00. . PAGW
Extra Virgin
The simple and chic interior of this Italian-style restaurant
attracts many Muscovites and expats during the day. A
complimentary olive plate is served withyou guessed
its - extra virgin olive oil and the olives taste as if they came
straight from the tree. The friendly staff serves up delicious
pizzas, pastas and risottos as well as fresh, tender fish and
meat from the grill. This vibrant restaurant satisfies every
occasion, whether you want to have a quick business
lunch or a cosy dinner with friends.QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka
17, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 967 102 71 97, www.
evgrill.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. .
PAGW
Call
26 Moscow In Your Pocket
Food Embassy
Everything about Food Embassy screams hip. From their
trendy music indoors to the Miami vibe outdoors, youll
only find the coolest cats here. As appearances go their
dcor is faultless, and this is mirrored by their presentation of food, which too was perfect. Though theres a clear
moscow.inyourpocket.com
International
Beer & Brut
Something for the gentlemen (beer) and for the ladies
(brut) - thats the concept behind Beer & Brut. Situated in an
old mansion, B&B creates a pleasant atmosphere for serious
people who dont take themselves too seriously thanks to its
eclectic interior with a mural consisting of a random assortment of protruding objects. The menu boasts a refreshing
price to quality ratio, with a wide range of dishes to perfectly
complement both beer and wine. Beer comes in all forms commercial and craft - and the wine is divided into simple,
understandable options for all budgets. The summer terrace is perfect for kicking back and relaxing!QE-2, Ul. Pokrovka 26, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 965 250 26 26. Open
12:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTASW
Delicatessen
Delicatessen definitely falls into the category of hidden
treasure. Go in to the courtyard of building 20 (where the
coffee shop is), veer left and you will find a colourful entrance way announcing thank you for finding us. Down
in this bustling basement with its gorgeous antique bar,
enthusiastic foodies dig into an array of the chefs favourite
things. Ceviche, chocolate puddings, homemade pasta
and more - the whole menu is a success. Some say the
pizzas are the best in town, others say its the nicoise salad.
For us feeling youve been let in on a great little secret is
the real winning element. Reservations recommended.
QC-1, Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul. 20, bldg. 2, MTsvetnoy
Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 699 39 52, www.newdeli.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon, Sun. . PAEGW
Deti Raika
Its hard to miss this place just off the Arbat and close to
the conservatory and theatres. The colourful exterior with
a terrace outside is inviting to many musicians, actors and
journalists who make this their favourite hangout. Deti Raiki
or Children of Paradise is a French film directed in 1945 and
the owners favourite film. The varied menu offers anything
from pizzas to steak, sandwiches, salads as well as some
tasty fish dishes. With live music in the weekends, ranging
from jazz to lounge and even French chansons this place
comes recommended.QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 25, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 697 19 42, www.detirayka.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PTAEW
June - July 2015
27
Where to eat
Filial
If you are young or- more importantly - young at heart and
looking for a memorable, atmospheric place to have dinner, then stop by at Filial. This grand caf-style restaurant
features a dark wood and green accented interior and is
always filled with the warm chatter of Moscows dynamic
young population. Though this place is worth a visit just
for a glass of wine, you really should have lunch or dinner
and try one of the revitalizing salads or the tasty noodle
plates. In terms of quality, the food certainly stands out
from what you get in Moscows mainstream restaurants.
QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 3, bldg. 1, MChistye prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 621 21 43, www.filialmoscow.ru. Open
12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PAG
Funny Cabany
Funny Cabany is the perfect place for carnivores to congregate. The lively atmosphere and a deceptively simple yet
modest, vintage interior decor compliments the extensive
barbecue and grill menu, which features everything from
homemade sausages and burgers, to deliciously tender
steaks. A delicious fish menu is also available for the non
meat eaters. Add friendly, welcoming staff, very generous
portion sizes and if youre lucky, a visit from the resident
micropig, Funny Alexandrovich, Funny Cabany is not a restaurant to miss out on. In the summer their large rooftop
terrace is a great addition, with 2 bars, a grill, barbecue
parties, brunches and lots of parties.QB-1, Ul. Mal. Dmitrovka 5, bldg. 9, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 220 25
02, www.funnycabany.ru. Open Ma - Thu 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri and Sat until last guest. . PTAEGW
Holy Fox
Thanks to Holy Fox enjoying sophisticated food only a few
minutes from Red Square is now a real possibility. The minimalist interiors were designed by one of the owners, an architect who oversaw the renovation of Moscows beloved
Krymskaya Embankment. The lovely and original dishes are
courtesy of the chef, who learned the secrets of his cooking in Asia, which are noticeable in almost every dish. This
creative approach to food is also apparent when it comes
to the drinks menu. A wide range of homemade alcoholic
drinks can be tried at the bar.QD-3, Bol. Cherkassky per.
15-17, MKitay-Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 111 08 08, www.
holyfoxcafe.com. Tue - Fri 12:00 - 16:00 and 18:00 - 24:00.
Sat and Sun 14:00 - 24:00. Mon closed. . GW
Where to eat
Izia Grill
What started as a hipster craze seems to be going mainstream. Falafel and hummus are the new sushi and Izia
Grill, recently opened on Bol. Lubyanka, is embracing the
trend. Its a loosely Jewish-themed restaurant on the site
of a much-loved Italian place, and while the new dcor
is hardly revolutionary the change in cuisine is striking.
Aside from the falafel, a wide range of hot dogs also get
a thumbs-up. Most dishes come in snack-sized portions,
but usually have snack-sized price tags attached. Its sitdown street food rather than fine dining, but it works well
as a neighborhood caf. Also at Ul. Lva Tolstogo 16 (metro
Park Kultury).QD-2, Bol. Lublyanka ul. 24, MLubyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 623 08 48, www.izia-grill.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 06:00. . PAEGSW
Ragout
A smart-casual city-cafe atmosphere is well complemented by an equally simple and well-thought out menu. Despite the relatively restricted choice, its still impossible to
choose, but fear not, standards are high across the board.
Vegetarians will also be delighted to see there are lots of
exciting things for them to eat too. Breakfasts here are
also great and Sunday is an excellent time to visit when
they have their informal family roast Sunday lunch. Also
at Olimpisky pr. 16 bldg. 5 (metro Prospekt Mira).QA-1,
Ul. Bol. Gruzinskaya 69 (entrance from 2-ya Brestskaya), MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 662 64 58, www.
caferagout.ru. Open 08:00 - 24:00, Thu, Fri 08:00 - 02:00,
Sat 12:00 - 02:00, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PSW
Saxon + Parole
This high-end American restaurant is an excellent replica
of the one in New York. Situated in the romantic neighborhood of Patriarshy Prudy, with the possibility of sitting near
an open window in the summer, and cozy indoor seating,
it is the perfect place to hang out at the end of the day or
to host a business lunch. The menu offers a wide range of
meat and fish dishes as well as delicious starters, which are
all prepared with fresh and largely local ingredients.QB-2,
Spiridonevsky per. 12/9, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 903 755
03 43, www.saxonandparole.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . GSW
Sky Lounge
Fantastic! This restaurant is worth visiting just to experience the view alone. Perched up on the 22nd floor you
can gaze over the whole of Moscow and admire the iconic
seven sisters skyscrapers spreading out into the distance.
Sky Lounge really has the monopoly on the one-of-a-kind
panorama. The menu meets up to the general experience
by being filled with well-crafted dishes covering a wide
range of cuisines expertly. Many of the dishes are truly
delightful and the portions are more generous than you
will see almost anywhere else. The wine list is long and
filled with all kinds of treasures.QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd
floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75,
www.skylounge.ru. Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00
- 01:00. . PAEGSW
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Townhouse
A welcoming interior, an unpretentious European chic and
a menu that borrows something from cuisines of every
continent make this restaurant a must for hotel guests
and locals alike. The head chef has a special knack for everything grilled so a steak or grilled fish/seafood simply
cannot be missed! The warm octopus salad is the most
delightful starter for any meal. An aprs lunch or dinner
coffee/tea can be best enjoyed in the bar area with its
dimmed down lights, extra comfortable arm chairs and
a growing library in the upstairs area, which is also suitable for cocktail receptions and other events ranging from
book readings to jazz band performances.QD-5, Mercure Moscow Paveletskaya Hotel, ul. Bakhrushina 11,
MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 720 53 03, www.mercure.
com. Open 07:00 - 23:00. . PTASW
White Rabbit
Yes, its clich to say, but finding your way up to this magical
place really does feel a bit like Alice chasing that rabbit down
the hole. First make sure you enter the Passage building from
the right side entrance (next to the massive building site). This is
the only way to find the lift. You then have to get in two separate lifts before you finally pop out at the atrium at the top with
a glorious view over the city centre and its various skyscrapers.
Upscale White Rabbit does serve some truly outstanding and
memorable food and the kitchen is not likely to disappoint.
The menu is imaginative and filled with treasures too long to
list here, so just take your pick and enjoy.QA-3, Smolenskaya
pl. 3 (top of Smolensky Passage building), MSmolenskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 663 39 99, www.whiterabbitmoscow.ru. Open
12:00 - 06:00. . PAW
Italian
Florentini City Cafe
This is a great place to plop down on one of the couches
after a long day spent walking in the city. The cosy-chic
natural wood interior and the open kitchen with woodburning stove and fresh fish waiting to be prepared make
you want to order everything on the menu. In fact all
dishes are truly tasty and made from fresh ingredients,
however their huge selection of thin-crust pizza is what
this place is known for and why they classify themselves as
an Italian restaurant.QE-2, Staraya Basmannaya ul. 9/1,
MKrasnye Vorota, tel. (+7) 495 608 03 50. Open 11:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 24:00. . PTAEW
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29
Where to eat
Seafood
Gastronomica-Fish
If you love fish, once youve stepped off chaotic Leninsky
prospekt and passed through the door of cool, calming
Gastronomica you will be delighted you made the effort.
This is definitely one of the best fish restaurants in Moscow. On the main menu theres things like Chilean sea
bass, turbot and sole to choose from, as well as the closer
to home trout and salmon, all of which can be cooked any
number of ways from baked in a coal stove to steamed
with wine - delicious! Theres also a good range of seafood
based salads, soups, pastas and risottos - we particularly
liked the sterlet consomme - as well as mouthwatering
mussels to start. As it is quite some way from the metro,
it may be wise to come here by car. In summer terrace is
open.QLeninsky pr. 57, MLeninsky prospect, tel. (+7)
495 641 11 43, www.gastronomicafish.ru. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat 12:00 - 23:30. . PAVGSW
Porto Maltese in Vegas Crocus City
Ceilings covered with sale cloth that looks like its moving
in the wind, ropes instead of regular rails, walls adorned
with paintings of maritime settings - all this creates an at
sea mood once you step into the newly opened Porto
Maltese restaurant at Vegas Crocus City shopping mall.
This is the fifth Moscow restaurant by the worldwide
Mediterranean cuisine network and is a perfect place
to wind down after a long day of shopping with family
or friends. Fish and all sorts of seafood are laid out on a
cushion of ice next to the kitchen for guests to pick out
what they want to eat. Exceptional service, an original
and exclusive approach to seafood and a lengthy wine
list are sure to impress even the most experienced haute
cuisine connoisseurs.QVegas Crocus City, MKAD 65-66
km, 4th floor, MMyakino, tel. (+7) 495 236 10 15, www.
portomaltese.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 24:00. . TNGW
Steak Houses
Butchery Bar and Grill
A leather bound menu offering platters to share, steaks
and other cuts of meat all cooked to tender perfection
leaves you in no doubt as to the restaurants culinary focus.
The shadowy interior with minimalist decoration has the
feeling of a sophisticated living room, albeit one complete
with a large bar, and indeed the customers here seem to
happily relax as if at home.QBaumanskaya ul. 54, bldg. 1,
MBaumanskaya, tel. (+7) 495 229 06 05, www.rmcom.
ru/page-butchery. 24hrs. . PAGW
Chicago Prime Steakhouse
Everyone may tell you its the best, and we are going to
too, after a visit to Chicago Prime you will be left with no
doubt that you have just eaten a very memorable piece
of meat. The rest of the things on the menu like the large
salads, lobster consumme and blue fin tuna steak are just
as accomplished and the portions are huge. If you cant af30 Moscow In Your Pocket
Where to eat
ford to keep up your steak habit, you can also order cheaper yet similarly delectable steak sandwiches and burgers at
the bar. A discreet yet friendly atmosphere complete the
winning combination.QC-2, Strastnoy bul. 8a, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 988 17 17, www.chicagoprime.
ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. .
PAGSW
GOODBEEF
This steak cafe is a great choice for those who want their
meat fast and red. Theres no messing about here, you simply go to the counter and choose a rib-eye, sirloin or fillet
mingon and some garnishes (the baked potatoes are particularly good), tell them how you want it made up and it
arrives at your table within minutes. With fussy service and
overstyled interiors not part of the game here, the prices
are low, but as the concept is from down under, you can be
sure the meat is a healthy slab of Australian goodness. The
business lunch is particularly good value for money.QD-2,
Bol. Cherkassky per.15-17, bldg.1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 220 13 20, www.goodbeef.ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00.
. PAEGSW
Vegetarian
Avocado
Vegetarian cafes are always empty, right? Not this one. Come
meal time it can be hard to get a table here. Cheery fruit and
vegetable pictures on the wall suffice for dcor. There is an
extensive range of teas on the menu, and the food is delicious. Tofu, spinach and mushrooms feature prominently.
The evening live music includes a rather hip harp player, but
there is also guitar for those looking for something more
conventional. Try not to get too annoyed with the staff who
have a tendency to be a bit dippy. Also at ul. Tverskaya 5/6.
QD-2, Chistoprudny bul. 12/2, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7)
495 621 77 19, www.avocadocafe.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00,
Sun 12:00 - 23:00. . PASW
Fresh
This Canadian restaurant and juice bar is on a mission to
prove that vegetarian dining can be filling, exciting and
varied and does not necessarily need to involve stereotypical joss sticks, Indian tapestries and variations on the lentil.
Interior-wise its as fresh as they come, all clean minimalist
lines, favouring industrial materials and rough edges over
cuddly pictures of ethnic tribes. On the food front Fresh gets
full marks for providing an experience that both vegetarians
and meat eaters can salivate over - huge wraps bursting
with scrumptious goodies and noodles bowls brimming
with both delicate and fiery Asian flavours are just some
of the long list of hits. Also at Ermolaevsky per. 10/7 (metro
Tverskaya).QC-2, Ul. Bol. Dmitrovka 11, MTeatralnaya,
tel. (+7) 965 278 90 89, www.freshrestaurant.ru. Open
11:00 - 23:00. . PAGSW
Ya vegetarianets I am a vegetarian
Bez myasa without meat
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Summer Terraces
Khachapuri
QB-2, Bol. Gnezdnikovsky per.10, MTverskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 629 66 56, www.hacha.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Sat, Sun 11:00 - 01:00. . PAVEGSW
Le Pain Quotidien
QC-2, Kamergersky per. 5/6, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7)
495 984 90 94, www.lpq.ru. Open 07:00 - 23:00, Sat,
Sun 08:00 - 23:00. . PAGSW
Odessa Mama
QD-2, Krivokolenny per. 10, bldg. 5, MChistye
Prudy, tel. (+7) 964 647 11 10, www.cafeodessa.
ru. Open 11:00 - 23:00, Fri, Sat 11:00 - 02:00. .
PAVEGSW
Osteria della Piazza Bianca
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5a, MBelorusskaya, tel. +7
495 508 25 17, www.osteriabianca.ru. 24hrs. .
PAVGW
Paul
QA-3, Ul. Arbat 54/2, bldg. 1 (entrance on Garden
Ring), MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 783 16 38; Romanov per. 2/6, bldg. 7, MAleksandrovsky Sad, tel.
(+7) 905 792 39 05; ul. Lesnaya 7, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 903 138 01 05, www.paul-russia.ru. Open 07:30 23:00, Sat, Sun 08:30 - 23:00. . PASW
Scandinavia
QB-2, Maly Palashevsky per. 7 (enter from Tverskaya ul.19 ), MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 937 56
30, www.scandinavia.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. .
PTAGSW
Sky Lounge
QLeninsky pr. 32a, 22nd floor, MLeninsky prospekt, tel. (+7) 495 781 57 75, www.skylounge.ru.
Open 13:00 - 24:00, Thu - Sat 13:00 - 01:00. .
PAEGSW
The Hudson Bar
QA-1, Ul. Butyrsky Val 10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7)
495 212 04 54, www.hudsonbar.ru. Open 12:00 06:00. PAEGW
VICOLO (Marriott Royal Aurora)
QC-2, Ul. Petrovka 11, MKuznetsky Most, tel. (+7)
495 937 10 00, www.marriottmoscowroyalaurora.
com. Open 08:00 - 02:00. . PTAGW
31
Features
Where to eat
The Russian beer
revolution
For decades Soviet Russia could only manage two sorts of
beer Pivo est (we have beer) or Piv nt (we have no
beer). In a land where vodka was the tipple of choice, mastery of malt and hop was not a big priority, and while postSoviet years brought an explosion in the quantity of brews
on offer the quality of most Russian-made beer was almost
as painful as the resultant hangover.
Happily, however, things are changing. The craft beer
revolution that has swept through North America and
Europe has arrived here and a clutch of small-scale breweries is popping up to produce some interesting and distinctive offerings.
What to drink
The Pale Ale, derived from a British beer prepared for export to India, is perhaps the most popular offering. This
light, hoppy, spicy brew comes in several forms from different breweries, including India Pale Ale, American Pale
Ale and the somewhat contradictory Dark Pale Ale. Ones to
look out for include Red Machine and Black Sails, both by
Moscows Victory Arts brewery.
Stouts and porters have a long pedigree in Russia, with the
traditional Imperial Stout first being brewed for the royal
court in St. Petersburg. Its back on the menu in a big way
today: Jaws Oatmeal Stout is a rich, tasty beer from the Ural
town of Zarechny, near Yekaterinburg; Tulas Saldens Brewery offers an Extra Stout worth looking out for. For a slightly
different taste, the Coffee Stout made by Petersburgs Vasiliostrov Brewery is also worth checking out.
Aside from the companies mentioned above, St. Petersburgs AF Brewery (the name stands for Anti-Factory) also
has a burgeoning reputation.
Nightlife
Where to drink it
Most Moscow bars tend to offer a limited range of the
usual suspects mass market, mass produced lagers
with little to distinguish them, perhaps joined by a few
eye-wateringly expensive imported brews. Happily a few
places have sprung up to serve more specialized beers
and local craft brews that often undercut big-name imported brands.
Entuziast
Tucked away in the back of a courtyard behind one of
Moscows plushest shopping streets this place is part biker
caf, part beer Mecca. Theres a good selection of draught
brews on offer and a well-stocked fridge full of interesting
bottles, plus a small selection of merchandise from the old
Entuziast motorcycle brand that used to zip around the
USSR. Sandwiches and bar snacks are available, and so is
tea and coffee if you come on your bike.QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 7/5, MChekhovskaya, tel. (+7) 499 340 78 52.
Open 12:00 - 24:00.
Craft Republic
Over the road from the Chelsea gastropub, this underground watering hole has a no-frills vibe more suited to a
ryumashka than a bar. But it also has a range of around 20
beers on tap and a huge selection of bottled beverages.
The clientele is young and hipsterish, but not oppressively
so, and the absence of TV screens is a rare blessing for
guests who want a quiet pint and a good conversation.
The only thing missing is a food menu.Q-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per. 9, bldg. 7, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7)
495 629 89 84. Open 14:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 14:00 - 02:00.
PAW
One more pub
Next to the shiny office blocks of Belaya Ploshchad,
One More Pub is a fairly regular bar that has decided
to take a chance on offering a few interesting beers.
The draught menu usually has a couple of local craft
beers available and theres often an interesting imported ale or two to be found as well. Best of all, on
Sundays theres a special offer, perfect for a lazy afternoon of beer and televized football.QUl. Butyrsky Val
5, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 780 99 80, www.
onemorepub.ru. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Thu, Fri 12:00 03:00. PAGW
Vse tvoi druzya (All your friends)
This little street is the epicenter of Moscows craft revolution; while Craft Republic is the no-frills approach to bar
management, Druzya is tucked behind a quirky gift shop
and combines good beer with TV sports and weekend DJ
sets. A different vibe - instead of seats, just grab a barrel
and a cushion - makes for a different audience, but the
commitment to unearthing interesting brews is just as
strong.QC-2, Mal. Gnezdnikovsky per 12/27, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 925 562 89 90. Open 11:00 - 06:00.
AGW
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Bars
Bar Strelka
The main headquarters of Moscows hipster parade, this
bar attached to the Strelka Design Institute has become
a bit more inclusive of regular folk in jeans and suits since
it first opened but is still notorious for the entrance lineup
where they suss out how hip your outfit is before letting
you in. The small dance floor fills or completely empties
depending on the weekend DJs. In the summer the delightful roof terrace with an incredible view is the place
to see and be seen at any hour of the day or night and
is a lovely place to relax with a drink and a plate of their
delicious nibbles.QC-4, Red October Chocolate Factory,
Bersenevskaya nab.14, bldg.5, MKropotkinskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 771 74 16, www.barstrelka.com. Open 09:00
- 24:00, Fri 09:00 - 03:00, Sat 12:00 - 03:00, Sun 12:00 24:00. PTALEGW
Duma
This place is not only literally underground its also
through a couple of courtyards and hidden down an alley. Down in this large round cellar they play quality funk
music to a cool youngish crowd who know their stuff.
Some decent live bands also often drop in to crank up
the tempo. The interior oozes groovy 1970s Soviet chic
- old sewing machines, samovars and radios abound
whilst classic art films and Soviet retro clips are projected
on to the walls. In the summer the cellar bar empties as
the large courtyard terrace and its ping pong table becomes the place to be.QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 11, bldg.
3V (entrance from Nikitsky per. 2), MOkhotny ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 692 11 19, www.clubduma.ru. Open 12:00
- 06:00. AEW
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33
Nightlife
Darling, Ill call you later
Half way between pub and bar this curiously named
drinking den is a good place for those with a big crowd of
friends who actually want to chat with each other. Music
is background indie-rock stuff, bar snacks are plenty, there
are a few TVs for those needing to keep up with the sport
and plenty of large tables. By mixing a more upscale drinks
menu with a downbeat interior and vibe it draws in both
wealthier students and professionals alike.QB-1, 2-ya
Tverskaya -Yamskaya ul.10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7)
926 520 77 80, www.darlingbars.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW
Kvartira 44
The main draw of this branch of the popular french style
cafe/bar is the large atmospheric courtyard terrace,
which is surrounded by the ruins of an old building, that
in usual Russian style is slowly being rebuilt with cheap
bricks. When out in the yard, service can get a bit slow,
and theres no piano, but despite that its still one of the
nicest terraces in the area. Inside there is more of a warm
and cosy glow, perfect for snuggling up in.QC-4, Ul. Mal.
Yakimanka 24/8, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 82 34,
www.kv44.ru. Open 12:00 - 24:00. PAEW
La Bottega Wine Bar and Cafe
Located in amongst the big banks and consultants of the
White Square skyscraper cluster, the market for this upscale wine bar is obvious. The wine selection is extensive,
Nightlife
albeit mostly European in focus and prices cross the whole
gamut from 1,500 a bottle to 15,000 for the most exclusive
vintages from the cellar. The lighting is dim and the combination of floor-to-ceiling windows, aged leather sofas and
bare brick walls certainly add the right kind of understated
atmosphere to those sophisticated deal-breaking drinks.
La Bottega also serves various French and Italian snacks to
accompany the wine.QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5B, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 213 30 88, www.labottega.ru. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Thur, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 02:00. PAGW
Club Roxbury
In this newly-opened Moscow outpost of the mega-successful Los Angeles chain, youll be amazed by the luxury
and scope, unlike any gentlemans club in Europe! Guests
sink into the comfortable sofas surrounded by the most
beautiful girls in Moscow in this classy environment. International DJs, amazing costumes, arial acrobatics, and sensory overdrive.QUl. Butyrsky Val 5, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 532 79 52, www.clubroxbury.ru. Open 22:00 07:00. PAW
MyBar
This is not another elitny hangout with generic Moscow
cocktails and pounding music. My Bars philosophy is to create a welcoming venue for friendly people who are looking
for a relaxed hangout and down-to-earth staff. MyBar is well
and truly a dive bar; especially popular with expats and local
office workers looking for a post-work drink and some fun, it
offers a refreshingly laid-back alternative to Moscows glamour dominated nightlife scene. The music selection varies
vastly, but is usually a good mix of golden oldies, with some
great pop and rock classics to dance to at the weekend.
Thursdays are live music nights with free concerts from rock
and blues bands. Be prepared to queue a little to get in later
on at the weekend as the dancefloor fills up and the crowd
gets lively.QC-2, Ul. Kuznetsky Most 3, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 916 583 52 79, www.mybar.su. Open 18:00
until 06:00. PAEG
Gogol Club
Something is surely going to happen here, any minute
now in any one of the three connecting spaces - its got
that backstage energy. From the stage under the circus
tent out the front, the cosy Parisian style restaurant and
the beer kiosk that wouldnt be out of place at an outdoor
festival of rock, Gogol is a great place for any amount of
time, be it long or short, day or night. Bouncers keep everything sane and there are plenty of quiet nooks to escape to if things get too hectic near the dancefloor. The
music is bohemian European stuff you probably wont remember the next day but youll enjoy it while youre here.
QC-2, Stoleshnikov per. 11, bldg.1, MTeatralnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 514 09 44, www.gogolclub.ru. Open 12:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 05:00. PAEGW
Clubs
Club Garage
One of Moscows longest-running clubs (open since 1998),
Garage packs in the crowds for its legendary Wednesday
/ Sunday RnB nights, and Friday / Saturday after parties.
Open 24 hours with a full bar, restaurant and hookah
menu, Garage has something going on at all hours. The
crowd tends to be young and Russian (although some of
the fashion tastes can be a little extreme), but the friendly
atmosphere and relaxed face control makes it a fun night
out for those who dont want to deal with the attitude of
Moscows glamour clubs. Summer terrace is open from
the end of April until October.Q-4, Brodnikov per. 8,
MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 499 238 70 75, www.garageclub.
ru. Open 24hrs. PAEW
34 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Icon Club
The extravagant and glamorous Icon club, opened in September 2013, can accommodate 2000 over its main dance
floor, separate bar and dance floor, VIP areas and a roof terrace with superb views of Moscow at dawn. Though men
will have to pay to enter, it is worth it for top DJs taking
their lead from the most recent trends in Ibiza, Berlin and
New York.QC-4, Bolotnaya nab. 9, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 364 09 09, www.iconclub.ru. Open closed,
Fri, Sat 23:00 - 06:30. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun.
PALEGW
Propaganda
A cafe club with a backstage look, Propaganda has a
chilled out vibe that is popular with everyone. Service is
attentive and swift so for better or worse youre never long
without a tipple. The food is reasonably priced portionwise and the lounge-house sounds put everyone into
their comfort zone. Of an evening, different djs sets kick
in. Also one of the oldest clubs around in Moscow, theyve
already notched up 11 years and still invite foreign djs regularly and host gay evenings on Sunday nights.QD-2, Bol.
Zlatoustinsky per. 7, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 57
32, www.propagandamoscow.com. Open 11:30 - 06:00,
Sat, Sun 12:00 - 06:00. PENGW
Cocktail Bars
All Time Bar
Dmitri Sokolov, Moscows new tsar of the cheap cocktail bar
has opened yet another open all hours joint for those who like
imaginative cocktails but hate the pretention and high prices
that often come with them. Service can get a little slow when
its busy, so try order at the bar and be prepared for the music
to dramatically increase in volume after midnight.QC-2, Ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka 7/5, bldg. 2, MTeatralnaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 08 11, www.alltimebar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
City Space
The view is heavenly. There are no other words for it when
you are on the 34th floor looking out at all of Moscow beneath you. Then the waitress brings you your personally
mixed cocktail. Here they know the classic cocktails from
the Bloody Mary to the Martini backwards. Regular guest
mixologists are constantly bringing fresh ideas to the menu,
while their own favourite creations such as the incredible
Trans-Siberian make great use of local flavours.QSwissotel
Krasnye Holmy, Kosmodamianskaya nab. 52, bldg. 6,
34th floor, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 221 53 57, www.
cityspacebar.com. Open 17:00 - 03:00. PALE
Dream Bar
Whilst the cocktail list is long and detailed, the prices are reasonable and the drinks themselves are inventive and tasty.
A popular hangout at the end of the day for the after-work
crowd, the atmosphere is relaxed and the music ambient
and mellow. However all this changes come the weekend,
when the loud pumping dance music, indicates its time to
take off the ties and let your hair down.QD-2, Myasnitskaya ul. 17, bldg.1, MChistye prudy, tel. (+7) 495 621 77 68,
www.dreambar.ru. Open 24hrs. PAW
Time Out Bar
An unassuming cocktail bar in historic surroundings, which
lets the view do the talking. The menu offers different styles
of cocktails for different times of day, for example champagne based breakfast drinks or a samovar filled with one
of many ice-cold tea-based cocktails for 5 oclock tea. The
early evening jazz soundtrack is a nice addition as is the
huge open-air terrace and original period features such as
the Soviet realist mural on the ceiling.QB-1, Bol. Sadovaya
ul. 5/1 (Hotel Peking, 13th floor), MMayakovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 229 01 80, timeoutbar.ru. Open 17:00 - 24:00,
Thu 17:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 06:00. PAEW
June - July 2015
35
What to see
What to see
NEXT TO RED SQUARE
Alexandrovsky Gardens
The gardens in front of the Kremlin walls are an excellent to
take a stroll and get down to some serious people watching as well as admire the sheer scale and immense size of
the Kremlin walls and towers. The biggest essential sight
of the gardens is the tomb of the unknown soldier near to
the entrance to Red Square. A high-kicking guard change
ceremony takes place here every hour in front of the eternal
flame.QC-2, Alexandrovsky sad, MAlexandrovsky Sad.
The Kremlin
Annunciation Cathedral
This imposing cathedral, where Russias Tsars were christened and married, was built by Pskov architects in 1482.
The frescoes inside are considered to be some of the most
valuable in Moscow given that prominent artists of the time
including Andrey Rublyev (also buried here), Theophanes
the Greek and Prokhor of Gorodetz all worked on them.
Church of the Deposition of the Robes
Taking its name from an ancient festival where the Virgins
robes are transferred from Palestine to Constantinople
(now Istanbul), this is a more modest cathedral nestled
in a corner. Built in 1484 - 1485 by artists from Pskov, this
church notably has stained glass windows. Along with
some fine icons, inside you can also find wooden sculptures from the 15th century.
Cathedral of the Assumption
The grandfather of all the Kremlin churches, the Assumption
Cathedral is the oldest and the biggest. Built in 1475 by Italian architect Aristotle Fiorovanti, this is where Ivan the Terrible was crowned Emperor in 1547 before becoming a stable
for Napoleons horses in 1812. Their soldiers made off with
the chandeliers now hanging overhead, some weighing
over 5 tonnes. The cossacks brought them back after they
caught up with the light-fingered Frenchmen. In 1918 the
last Easter service was held here. Services resumed in 1990.
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Kremlin Armoury
You need a separate ticket for the Armoury, the 19th
Century museum purpose-built to house the nations
gob-smacking collection of gold, silver, arms and imperial clothes and carriages. Highlights of the collection are
the giant Orlov diamond and the infamous and rarely
glimpsed Faberge eggs. To prevent overcrowding, Armoury tickets can only be used after the time printed on
them. They do not give access to the rest of the Kremlin.
Q-2, MAlexandrovsky Sad, tel. (+7) 495 697 03 49,
www.kreml.ru. Open 10:00 - 17:00 Closed Thu. The
Armoury Chamber has seances at 10.00, 12.00, 14.30,
16.30. Admission 200 - 700Rbl. Tickets can be purchased an hour before the seance at the Kremlin ticket
office in Alexandrovsky sad.
Lenin Mausoleum
On display in various incarnations of his mausoleum since
1924, this is where the waxy, bald and embalmed body of the
founder of the Communist Party is. Visiting here is a no-nonsense event with guards posted at each corner to prod you
forward should you halt at any stage during the viewing. No
bags. No cameras. Theyll search your pockets to make sure
you dont sneak anything. Leave bags in the storage lockers
before going through the metal detectors, he may be dead
but you cant mess with him.QC-2, Red Square, MOkhotny
Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 623 55 27, www.lenin.ru. Open 10:00 13:00. Closed Mon, Fri. Entrance is free.
St. Basils Cathedral (Pokrovsky Sobor)
Standing magnificent at the head of Red Square is St. Basils Cathedral. Russias most recognisable building was
built in 1561 to celebrate Ivan the Terribles crucial defeat
of the Khan of Kazan, a victory which secured Moscows
position as the regions dominant city. While the view from
outside is spectacular and rightly famed, it is certainly also
worth a visit inside. Visitors used to the vast open spaces
of Western European cathedrals will be shocked to find a
stone warren of small, intimate chapels, each decorated
with countless icons and engravings and soaring in one
direction only: upwards, to the height of the onion domes
above. Russias history is all about a country being simultaneously tugged towards the west and the east. A visit
inside St Basils gives an invaluable lesson on the importance and undoubted attractions of the latter.QC-2, Red
Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 698 33 04, www.
saintbasil.ru. Open 11:00 - 16:00. Admission 250Rbl.
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river cruises
A cruise along the Moscow-River is one of the best
ways to see the city from its very centre, with unparalleled views of the sites on both banks. Casting off,
we leave behind the Moscow International Business
centre. Beside the pier is the Ukraina Hotel, the second tallest of Stalins Seven Sisters. Across the river
is the other White House, the house of the Russian
government. A few minutes sailing takes us to the
Novodevichy Convent. Under its walls, Tolstoys Kitty
and Levin of Anna Karenina met whilst skating, in reality, its cemetery houses the graves of Chekhov and
Yeltsin and many others. Its pink and white baroque
walls are faced by the thickening forest of the opposite
bank, leading into Sparrow Hills park. The silhouette of
a hammer and sickle peeks out above the treetops, a
glimpse of the gargantuan structure of Moscow State
University, the worlds tallest educational building and
the big sister of the seven. Passing Luzhniki Stadium,
we reach the green banks of fashionable Gorky Park.
At the diversion of the river into the Vodootvodny Canal stands the controversial statue to Peter the Great
marking three hundred years of the Russian navy. Its
creator, Georgian sculptor Zurab Tsereteli, also headed
the reconstruction of the Church of Christ the Saviour
opposite. Looking at its imposing domes, its hard to
believe that this was once a gigantic outdoor pool. On
Bolotny Island, towering over the rainbow-coloured
arches and golden domes of the St Nicholas church,
is the House on the Embankment, built to house the
Soviet elite. From the river weve got perfect views of
the Kremlin and the churches huddled inside it as we
arrive at the heart of Moscow and perhaps Russia itself. Even after half a millennia St Basils idiosyncratic
domes are still breathtaking; legend has it that its architects were blinded to stop them making something
so beautiful ever again.
QA-3, Taras Shevchenko nab., Hotel Ukraina
pier, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495 228 55 55, www.
radisson-cruise.ru. From Pier Ukraina and from
pier Gorky Park boats leave every day starting from
13:00. It is advisable to book tickets well in advance
(tickets can also be bought online). Check the full
schedule and prices online. PAUKW
37
What to see
Churches
and Monasteries
Cathedral of Christ the Saviour
This is what a new Russian Orthodox church ought to
look like. It is so immense youll be wondering how many
blocks of dynamite the Soviets needed to get rid of the
thing the first time around. That was in 1931. This newly
restored example came into being from 1994 until 2000
and is a shiny beacon for the Russian Orthodox Church
at home and a close replica of the original 19th Century
cathedral built in honour of the victory over Napoleon.
The sprawling cathedral houses a museum on the history of the site where you can see pictures of the giant
swimming pool the Soviets built here and the huge Lenin
topped skyscraper they had originally planned for. During
excursions (minimum 10 people) you can see the cathedral, museum and the view from the collonade. As it is a
working place of worship women are expected to cover
their heads and everyone should dress conservatively.
No cameras or mobile phones should be used.QB-4, Ul.
Volkhonka 15, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 28
47, www.xxc.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mon 13:00 - 18:00.
Admission free. Guided tours in English for groups for
up to 10 people 6,000Rbl (pre-booking required call
(+7) 495 637 28 47).
Novodevichy Monastery
Monastery or convent, this place occupies a very specific place in Russian history. On the grounds surrounded
by the Kremlinesque walls, which were built to act as a
fortress, are four cathedrals including the majestic fouronion globes of Smolensky Cathedral which dates back
to 1524. It was at Novodevichy that Peter the Great imprisoned his sister Sophia and executed her supporters
from the Streltsy rebellion. Today it is a magnificent and
peaceful cloister with an impressive icon collection. Be
sure to look at the fascinating nearby cemetery too while
you are here and take a stroll around the picturesque
pond beyond the walls.QNovodevichy proezd 1, MSportivnaya, tel. (+7) 499 246 85 26. Open 09:00 - 17:00.
Admission 300Rbl.
38 Moscow In Your Pocket
What to see
Novospassky Monastery
Situated on the river and
surrounded by gardens,
the walls of this working
monastery date from the
1640s. A quiet place, the
brooding
five-domed
Cathedral of the Saviour
was built in 1645 and attracts a healthy crowd of
observers in the evening
and has lovely frescoes. Women need to cover their
heads and if wearing trousers or jeans they need to don
a wrap around skirt as well.QE-5, Krestyanskaya pl.10,
MKrestyanskaya Zastava, tel. (+7) 495 676 77 13, www.
novospasskiymon.ru. Open 07:00 - 20:00. Admission
free. Guided tours by prior arrangement.
Museums
All-Russian Decorative Art Museum
Hidden in a courtyard,
this museum maintains
more than 200 000 pieces
of decorative and folk art
from all over Russia. There
are several beautifully decorated tea sets, plates and
figurines - the porcelain
from the post-revolutionary Soviet period is especially interesting. Also featured are
some traditional Russian clothes, toys, intricate wood baskets, embroidery and linens. The wood figurine carvings
are diverse and mind-blowingly detailed. The museum
also displays interiors and antique furniture taken from
the apartments of the old Russian nobility in the 18th to
20th centuries. Various workshops for children and excursions in English are also available. The museums frequent
temporary exhibitions are also worth checking out.QC-1,
Delegatskaya ul. 3, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7) 495 609
01 46, www.vmdpni.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00
- 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 19:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Tue
and last Mon of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl.
Children till 7 years old free entrance. NK
Cosmonautics Museum
Tucked under the huge monument to the Soviet Unions
race to the stars is this museum (sadly only in Russian) of
all things cosmos. There are models of satellites, original
space suits from both side of the Atlantic, the interior of
part of the Mir space station to explore, photos and documents from famous cosmonauts such as Yuri Gagarin
and plenty of artworks relating to mans obsession with
conquering space. The stuffed bodies of the first dogs in
space, Belka and Strelka, sit proudly next to the tiny pods
that they flew around the earth in. Theres also a caf serving space food and some 3-D shows (for which you have
to pay extra).QPr. Mira 111, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 683
79 68, www.kosmo-museum.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 200Rbl.
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39
What to see
Icons
What to see
Jewish Museum and Tolerance Center
This large and engaging museum dedicated to the complex
history of Russian Jewry, is thoroughly modern in approach,
favouring personal testimony, archival video footage and
interactive displays - all translated into Russian and English.
The exhibitions are divided chronologically, helping visitors to understand the life of Jewish communities as they
travelled across medieval Europe, settling in shtetls before
moving to the cities. The role of Russian Jewry in public life
in the late 19th and early 20th Centuries is particularly well
presented as is the fate of Soviet Jews and the role of Jewish soldiers during World War II. Visitors of Russian-Jewish
origins will no doubt be particularly interested in hearing
about what it meant to be a Soviet Jew and finding out
how and why so many left the USSR. Those expecting to
find just a stark representation of pogroms, holocaust,
hardships and suffering will be pleasantly surprised to find
Russian Jewish history presented as something much more
complex, filled with both struggles and achievements. The
museum can also be reached by taking tram no.19 from
metro Novoslobodskaya.QUl. Obraztsova 11, bldg. 1,
MMarina Roscha, tel. (+7) 495 645 05 50, www.jewishmuseum.ru. Open 12:00 - 22:00, Fri 12:00 - 15:00. Closed
Sat. Admission 400Rbl.
Right on Red Square, this museum consists of two floors offering an extensive foray into Russian history from the ice
ages of the mammoths right up to the 19th century. The
first floor which runs up to the beginning of Peter the Great,
and the 17th century holds many relics and artifacts of historical interest. Not just the exhibits are of interest, each
individual hall complements its in-house exhibition, such
as the Novgorod and Vladimir Halls with their vivid reconstructions. The atmosphere is conducive to both wandering
and musing as the museum guides are, lets say, a little less
protective than usual. Upstairs while it lacks any English explanation, has an abundance of cool historical tit bits. Like
the boots big enough to hide a small child which are worn
to get through a swamp and were worn in Peter the Greats
day, and a great portrait gallery to set you straight on who
exactly was who in the Russian aristocracy. The elegant side
of Russian life is given slightly more space than the peasantry but their role in history garners them several rooms
toward the end demonstrating Russian customs and revolutionary activists such as the Decembrists. There are English
leaflets that you can request from the counter as you enter
that cover the first floor, but not unfortunately the second.
There is a 2hr audio guide (one hour for each floor) at a cost
of 300Rbl. The small caf serves basic Russian snack food,
inexpensive tea and coffee and butterbrodi (Russian open
sandwiches).QC-3, Red Square 1, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 692 37 31, www.shm.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Tue and first Mon of the month. Admission 60 - 440Rbl. U
The Pushkin State Museum of Fine Arts
Opened to the public in 1912, this museum was primarily
intended as an educational facility. Coming from the fashion of that time, it houses a lot of the worlds art in the form
of plaster casts. It also has works by the Old Masters and
representatives of various European schools of painting. In
1924 the museum saw the first addition of a picture gallery,
to be followed in 1948 by the addition of many works from
the 19th century. Its a manageable museum, but be sure
to know which section you are heading. Two buildings sit
side by side - the first grandiose structure houses the old
plastery cast bit, the impressionists are held in a separate
wing for which there is a separate admission charge. The
temperamental audio guides provide the only English
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41
What to see
Parks and Gardens
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VDNKh)
This massive complex of pavilions buildings whose glory
is fading fast, long walkways and elaborate fountains is a
throwback to the Soviet era of glorification. The 90 or so
pavilions built to house displays of progress of the great
collectivisation of the farms, now host a variety of commercial enterprises and some are not that different to what
is found in the metro passageways. The Friendship Fountain with its golden dancing maidens each dedicated to a
Soviet republic sits at the heart of the complex surrounded
by various pavilions in different designs which each represent a Soviet republic and its achievements. Some weekends it is crawling with families and sports enthusiasts.
Space fans should look out for the soaring monument to
space flight and the cosmonautics museum in its base.
If someone invites you to go to VDNKh - they mean this
place or the metro station opposite that goes by the same
name.QPr. Mira 119, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544 34 00,
www.vvcentre.ru. Park open 09:00 - 23:00. Please see
the website for opening hours of the museums. Mon
closed. Entrance park free. Please see the website for
admission of the museums.
Kolomenskoe Museum Estate
Sprawling and green
Kolomenskoye is a favourite with kids, mums
and dads, old grandmothers and young hipsters alike. The gentle
sloping hills covered
with cherry trees in the
warmer months, the
abundance of seating
and the wafting aroma
of sizzling shaslik from afar put visitors in a cheerful mood.
Remnants of this estates past life as a Royal Estate can
be identified in the scattering of different museums like
the beekeeping house and the many churches. Its also
UNESCO listed. Got Tsar fever? Take a troika ride. Just dont
bring any beer bought from shops outside of the park or
you could end up getting friendly with the police and
making a deposit to their own beer fund.QPr. Andropova
39, MKolomenskaya, tel. (+7) 499 615 27 68, www.
mgomz.com. Park open every day 08:00 - 24:00. Museums open 10:00 - 18:00 and closed Mon. Admission to
park is free. Admission museums 30-100Rbl. N
State Museum-Estate Arkhangelskoe
This sprawling 18th Century countryside estate once belonged to the exceptionally rich Prince Yusupov and is
one of the quietest stately parks within a reasonable distance of the city. The buildings themselves usually house
historical and contemporary exhibitions from the local
scene. In the winter its a romantic setting for that quintessential Russian troika (sleigh) ride and theres also plenty
of stall selling hot drinks. The formal gardens, which of42 Moscow In Your Pocket
What to see
fer excellent views towards the surrounding countryside,
are dotted with neo-classical sculptures, hidden summer
pavilions, while the forested area leading to the small
river is lovely for a lazy stroll. GETTING THERE: From metro
Tushinskaya, Rizhskaya, Dmitrovskaya.Q5 km Ilinskoe
Shosse, MTushinskaya, tel. (+7) 498 653 86 60, www.
arhangelskoe.su. Park open Mon - Fri 10:00 - 21:00, Sat
and Sun from 10:00 - 19:00. Museums and exhibitions
open Wed - Fri 10:30 - 17:00, Sat, Sun and holidays10:30
- 18:00. Closed on Mon and Tue and last Wed of the
month. Admission park 50 - 150Rbl, museums 100 350Rbl, all inclusive ticket 500Rbl. UNK
Tsaritsyno
Commissioned by Catherine the Great as an out of town
palace in 1775, Tsaritsyno is the poor cousin of the Moscow estates and palaces. Early construction didnt meet
with the Empresss approval and by 1795, after dismissing
the main architect, the complex was already lying in ruins.
Over the ensuing years it became a fashionable country
estate and a particular favourite place for locals to enjoy
picnics amongst the ruins. Since the 1980s the estate has
been undergoing renovations and the gothic style palace
at its heart is now looking brighter and more elaborately
decorated than at possibly any other time during its history. The huge gardens, meadows and woods surrounding
the palace are a tranquil and nature-filled retreat.QDolskaya ul. 1, MTsaritsyno, tel. (+7) 495 321 63 66, www.
tsaritsyno-museum.ru. Park open 06:00 - 24:00. Museums 11:00 - 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun and holidays
11:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon. Admission park free. Museums 80 - 650Rbl. UK
Writers museums
Bulgakov House Museum - Theatre
Steeped in popular Moscow legend, this is where
Bulgakov, the author of
Master and Margarita lived
and wrote his famous
novel. Today it is an artists
gathering place with exhibitions of contemporary
Russian artists and a historical exhibition dedicated
to the houses most famous inhabitant. The resident feline
Behemoth is more than fat, he is adorable and theres
even a cute cafe serving tea, coffee and pies.QB-1, Bol.
Sadovaya ul. 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 970 06
19, www.dombulgakova.ru. Open 13:00 - 23:00. Fri, Sat
13:00 - 01:00. Admission free. PALW
Gorky Memorial Museum
Designed by one of Russias
most celebrated art nouveau architects - Fyodor
Schechtel - in 1900, the Ryabushinsky Mansion is most
famous as the former home
of writer Maxim Gorky. This
magical building is full of
beautiful stained glass windows, a spectacular marble
wave staircase and exquisite carved oak paneling and is
worth visiting just for aesthetic reasons. There is extensive
written material available in each room giving insight into
Gorkys life in the house, his tastes in dcor and ornaments
and there are some stories about the famous contemporaries who sat and talked about the Russian soul there. Considering Gorky was the head of the Writers Union, that list
includes everyone from Mayakovsky to Tolstoy.QB-2, Mal.
Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 690 05 35,
www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed Mon, Tue, last
Thu of the month. Admission free. N
Lev Tolstoy Museum
Dedicated to the life of the
man behind War and Peace
and Anna Karenina, this is
a reverential place packed
with personal and literary
material. A complex and
conflicted individual, the
exhibits trace his life from
childhood to death and
the emergence of his major works. Easy to follow due to some great carded English
translations, this is a good introduction to Tolstoy.QB-4, Ul.
Prechistenka 11, MKropotkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 637 74
10. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon
and last Fri of the month. Admission 100 - 200Rbl. N
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Gogol House
Nikitskiy Boulevard 7A, in
the very centre of Moscow
near Arbat Square, with its
stone arcades and balconies,
may seem like your average
merchants mansion but
there is a lot more to it than
meets the eye. This house
has a very rich history dating
back to the early 17th century and had belonged to
families of boyars, courtiers, royal councilors, government
officials, army generals and even the members of the Tolstoy family. However, the most famous resident to have
ever inhabited this manor was none other than Nikolai
Vasilievich Gogol, one of the most preeminent figures of
the natural school of Russian literary realism and author of
such classics as The Nose, Viy, The Overcoat, The Government Inspector and, of course, Dead Souls. Welcome
to the Gogol House Memorial Museum Science Library!
Although he had only spent the last four years of his life
here, this is the place where the writer worked on the
second volume of Dead Souls. It was here that he burnt
the manuscripts of the poem, and in this very house, on
February 21, 1852 that the writer died. The Gogol House
is the only place in Moscow that keeps these momentous memories alive by combining a research library of
over 250 000 volumes, an exhibition hall and a memorial
museum. The museum itself is located on the first floor,
which Gogol occupied, and is broken up into several
rooms. Gogols study was a special room where he could
enjoy some peace and quiet while he put his timeless
words down on paper. The living room is almost an exact replica of the one where the author entertained his
guests. The Government Inspector room tells visitors
about Russian theatre of the 1830s and 1840s, as well as
Gogols Theatre and plays based on his works. The Room
of Remembrance is where Gogol stayed when his health
began to fade in 1852, purely because it was warmer than
the other rooms. Although special attention is given to
the works of Gogol and other material relating to his life,
visitors also have access to a large selection of books dedicated to psychology, art, philosophy, literary studies and
theology. The library also has a hall devoted specifically
to music, where anyone from novices to professionals
can browse through music books and even have a go on
the electric piano with special headphones to better hear
how they sound. The Gogol House also hosts a number
of events, ranging from literary readings to plays and concerts dedicated to the works of Gogol and other prominent Russian authors.
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495
690 58 81, www.domgogolya.ru. Open 12:00 - 19:00,
Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00. Closed
Tue and last day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl.
June - July 2015
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What to see
What to see
Rbl per hour thereafter (plus deposit). Roller blade rental is
200 Rbl for the first hour and 100 Rbl per hour thereafter,
but dont forget to hire some protective gear! Another fun
activity would be hiring out a pedal boat, costing around
350 Rbl plus a deposit, although the lines can get pretty
long for this on weekends.
Word of advice and other useful info: bring cash with you
to Gorky Park as some of the activities may not be payable
by card. Wifi is available throughout the park as are plug
sockets. Hundreds of oversized pillows and beanbags are
dotted around for your leisure!
Gorky Park
In November 2011, when the last of the 100 rotting rollercoasters were demolished, Moscow finally cured itself of
its Soviet hangover. What remained was 2,000 square kilometers of potential: Gorky Park was transformed beyond
belief, quickly becoming Moscows hottest hangout. No
exaggeration intended, to cover every possible activity in
the park we would have to dedicate this entire magazine,
so instead as always, we have tried to pick out the absolute
must-dos, so that you can get the most out of your time
at Gorky Park.
Food
Spending a day in Gorky Park, you are more than likely to
work up an appetite! But how to choose which of the many
cool, beautiful, hip or chilled out places to spend your hardearned rubles at? Weve picked out our favorite food spots,
depending on what youre craving. Of course this is just the
tip of the iceberg, so dont be afraid to wonder into somewhere off the beaten track - you never know what gem you
might stumble upon.
1. For a caffeine and pastry fix look no further than Le Pain
Quotidien, or in Russian, Khleb Nasushchny, located by the
park entrance from Leninsky Avenue. Pueroport offers caffeine but in the form of 36 different types of teas. Alternatively, Coffee and the City is a slightly cheaper spot and Puff
Point has some of the most succulent profiteroles in town.
2. If its something traditional youre after, consider trying
Pelman cafe, serving Russian boiled dumplings filled with
meat, fish or various vegetables.
3. If you only have time for a quick bite keep your eyes
peeled for Wokker - about as close as youll come to healthy
fast food, all made with the freshest oriental ingredients.
Glowsub (Russias answer to Subway) and Whats Up, Dog!
are scattered all around the park and are still pretty healthy
as far as fast food goes.
4. If dining in a beautiful setting is your main concern, wed
recommend eating at Lebednoe Ozero (Swan Lake). Cafe
by day, bar and club by night, Ozero sits beautifully on the
edge of a picturesque lake, serving Thai and European food.
It is now conjoined by 8 Oz that shares the same lake view
and specializes in fresh oven-baked pizza. Olive Garden is
another favorite of ours. Located on the Moscow riverfront,
there is a totally holiday-feel atmosphere: snow-white mar44 Moscow In Your Pocket
quees, deck chairs, beach umbrellas and real olive trees. You
can come here during the day, bask in the sun and freshen
up with the finest lemonade.
For the ultimate Russian experience, keep an eye out for
one of the stalls selling corn on the cob. Another local
must-eat is ice cream - these snow white kiosks are near
impossible to miss and are sure to nostalgically bring you
back to your childhood.
Sport
The fitness fanatics amongst you will find yourselves at
home at Gorky Park. From racket sports to dance masterclasses, we cannot emphasize enough that there is truly
something for everyone here. You can play recreationally with friends and family, or if you want to improve your
game its possible hire a trainer. Again, weve tried to give
you an insight into what is available, but the sheer range of
possibilities is staggeringly impressive, leaving absolutely
nothing to be desired.
1. If dancing is your thing, there is an eclectic variety of
classes available, open to people of all ages and abilities
and run practically every day.
2. The joggers amongst you can find training sessions on
weekdays and weekends, gathering from Punshkinskaya
embankment. Of course if you wish to run on your own
there are a number of beautiful paths designed for joggers
with water fountains at regular intervals. Particularly for
men who are missing that intense body workout, Workout
24 in Neskuchni gardens will let you push yourself to the
limit!
3. There are also sports ranging from soccer pitches to tennis courts and anything in between, including a pingpong
club - 40 tables makes a stunning sight reminiscent of traditional Chinese Parks. Furthermore if you fancy some sand
between your toes, head to the beach sports centre where
any kind of beach court can be hired out.
4. Gorky Park has a number of arenas for skateboarding,
which if youre not willing to risk trying makes a great spectator sport!
Gorky Park allows its visitors to rent a variety of services,
largely related either to sport or modes of transport. Renting a bicycle will cost you 350 Rbl for the first hour and 200
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But the fun and adventure dont end here. A beautiful riverside pathway - lined with little benches perfect for taking a
breather and gazing at the river - will lead you to Vorobyevy
Gory (Sparrow Hills). Here, you can stand and survey over
1000 years of history.
The Andreevsky mens monastery at Plennitsy was endowed in 1648 by Boyar Feodor Rtishchev in honour of the
victory of Russian troops in battle over Crimean Tatars at
a ford outside Moscow in 1591. After the secularisation of
land in 1764, the monastery was closed down and turned
into an almshouse. The monastery was returned to the Russian Orthodox church in 1991 and has since been open to
the publics viewing pleasure.
The history behind the site of N. Ogarevs and A. Herzens
oath dates back to 1827, when two young men named Alexander Herzen and Nikolay Ogarev, inspired by the events
of the Decembrist revolt. One and a half centuries later on
the high slope of Vorobyovy Gory, a stele was erected in
memory of the revolutionaries. The memorial was inaugurated on 11 December 1978. The obelisk comprises granite
blocks, walls clad in grey granite, a bronze scroll mounted
in the left section with a bs-relief portrait image of Herzen
and Ogarev facing each other.
vorobyevy Gory
It might be hard to imagine the footprints of Napoleon
when you are surrounded by kiosks and fast food vendors,
not to mention the souvenir touts. Still, you can get an idea
of the length and breadth of the capital from here, as well
as seeing which of Stalins Seven Sisters skyscrapers you can
make out or play at counting the golden onion globes. Turn
around for a glimpse of the great promise of education for
the people; Moscow State University (MGU) directly behind
you. This building is grand, the rest behind it are frightfully
unspectacular. The walk up the hill is steep, although the
chairlift is occasionally open.
In summer the river embankment is a popular spot for picnics, sunbathing and cycling. The bicycle/roller blade rental
system is the same in the main part of Park Gorkogo and it
is very convenient in the sense that you can rent and drop
off your rental item at any rental point within the greater
Gorky Park area.
A new and, in our opinion, brilliant initiative is the Ecocenter, where school children are supported in developing independent projects on environmental themes and
inter-regional and international relations are fostered with
environmental non-government and state organizations.
Children are shown by way of example how to be environmentally efficient with household items. In order to lend
the learning process a playful and interesting form, a model
urban flat features in the exhibit, where displays familiar to
visitors from everyday life can be found, available for experimentation and eco-friendly comparison.
After trekking uphill, Andreevsky Ponds are a great place
to set camp and laze around as a light breeze passes and
the birds sing beautifully. And finally, as the sun begins
to go down head over to the observation point: what
can we say, a more splendid view over Moscow is yet
to be found.
Ultimately Gorky Park and Sparrow Hills can compete
with any of Europes and indeed the worlds finest parks.
We hope weve left you with enough inspiration here to
plan out a day at this wonderful place. If there is one small
caution to be heeded, refrain from cramming as many activities as possible into one day, as whichever way you go
about it, there will always be something more to be seen or
something else to be done. Instead - just go with the flow.
Appreciate the weather, the activities, the beauty and the
people, because thats what makes this park so special! And
if needed, make a second trip here.
June - July 2015
45
Hidden museums
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Hidden museums
most impressive works depicting the remote and romantic
beauty of the steppe, the Himalayas and the religious mysticism of the east stay in your memory long after leaving.
Even if you arent a fan of stuffed animals and taxidermy,
the Darwin Museum is still an interesting place to check
out. It consists of three floors that fit into the theme of evolution. The first floor touches on the history of the Darwin
Museum and biological diversity. Although there are few
signs in English, the exhibitions are fairly straight-forward.
The first floor also showcases many of the worlds ecosystems and recreations of some extinct animals. The next two
floors deal with micro- and macroevolution, zoogeography
and the development of scientific thought. There are hundreds of stuffed animals set up in their natural habitat as
well as an interesting look at how humans evolved.
A slightly different kind of history, the Vodka History Museum (located inside the Izmailovo Kremlin) gives you the
detailed and fun history of vodka in Russia and tells you
about the role it plays in Russian society. The museum only
has one floor, and its not very big but you should still expect to spend about an hour and a half looking around.
You will learn that it has changed the course of history in
Russia on more than one occasion. The museum boasts
700 different small exhibits and the collection of different
vodka brands is quite impressive, plus with the regular tour
a complimentary shot is of course included! After the tour
you can also arrange to attend a vodka tasting session and
buy your favorite brands. All information and signs are in
Russian and English.
Thought provoking and contemplative, the Sakharov
Center should be on the list for those interested in the life
of Sakharov, Russias Nobel Peace Prize winning physicist
and human rights campaigner. The upstairs museum room
hosts five informative displays discussing the establishment of the Soviet regime, the beginning of dissent, the
repercussions, the results (GULAG) and the aftermath. The
displays are mainly photographic but there is some installation. While all information is original and therefore in
Russian, the museum provides extensive descriptions for
each display in English as well as an additional guidebook.
Downstairs is a library and reading room.
And last but by no means least, something slightly quirky:
the Lights of Moscow Museum - a museum about
street lamps! Sounds dull? Not when you are controlling
the lighting effects yourself! This small and eccentric little
place devoted to the history of Moscow street lighting is
as interactive as it is unusual. Using the nifty little remote
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control, you can see first hand just why people complained
about the first gas lamps, saying the moon shone brighter,
and experience how the discovery of the electric lamp was
such a world changing event. Theres also a big collection of
clocks in the end of the exhibition, which amounts to only
four rooms in all.
Go out, explore and enjoy!
Chekhov Museum
QB-2, Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul. 6, MBarrikadnaya,
tel. (+7) 495 691 61 54, www.goslitmuz.ru. Open 11:00 18:00, Thu 14:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon and last day of the
month. Admission 50 - 150Rbl. Fourth Fri of the month
entrance free. N
Darwin Museum
QUl. Vavilova 57, MAkademicheskaya, tel. (+7) 499
783 22 53, www.darwin.museum.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 13:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon and last Fri of the
month. Admission 100 - 300Rbl. PUK
Gorky Memorial Museum
QB-2, Mal. Nikitskaya ul. 6/2, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7)
495 690 05 35, www.imli.ru. Open 11.00 - 17.30. Closed
Mon, Tue, last Thu of the month. Admission free. N
Institute of Russian Realist Art
QNovospassky Dvor Business Centre, bldg. 31, Derbenevskaya nab. 7, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 276
12 12, www.rusrealart.ru/en. Open 11:00 - 20:00, Thu
11:00 - 21:00. Closed Mon. Admission 50 - 150Rbl, Family tickets 200 - 350Rbl.
Lights of Moscow
QD-2, Armyansky per. 3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel. (+7)
495 624 73 74, www.moscowlights.ru. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 30 - 70Rbl. N
Nikolay Roerich Museum
QB-3, Maly Znamensky per. 3/5, MKropotkinskaya,
tel. (+7) 499 271 34 17, www.icr.su. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 100 - 220Rbl. N
Sakharov enter
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 57/6, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
623 44 01, www.sakharov-center.ru. Open 11:00 - 19:00.
Closed Mon. Admission free.
The Central Museum of Musical Culture
QB-1, Ul. Fadeeva 4, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495
739 62 26, www.glinka.museum. Open 11:00 - 19:00,
Thu 11:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 175 - 275Rbl. Temporary exhibitions 50 - 250Rbl.
Children till 6 years old free. TNKW
The Gogol House
QB-3, Nikitsky bul. 7A, MArbatskaya, tel. (+7) 495 695
92 56, www.domgogolya.ru. Mon, Wed and Fri 12:00
- 19:00, Thu 14:00 - 21:00, Sat and Sun 12:00 - 18:00.
Closed on Tue and last working day of the month. Admission 40 - 120Rbl. NW
Vodka History Museum
QIzmailovskoe shosse 73 G, MPartizanskaya, tel. (+7)
499 166 50 97, www.vodkamuseum.ru. Open 10:00
- 20:00. Admisson 100 - 180Rbl. Guided tours 240 300Rbl depending on amount of people. Excursion in
English should be booked in advance. AK
June - July 2015
47
Where to stay
Where to stay
5 stars
Ararat Park Hyatt
QC-2, Neglinnaya ul. 4, MLubyanka, tel. (+7) 495 783
12 34, www.moscow.park.hyatt.com. 206 rooms (Room
prices start at 16,000Rbl).
Crowne Plaza Moscow WTC
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 22 22, www.cpmow.ru. 724 rooms (Room
prices start at 6,200Rbl).
Hilton Moscow Leningradskaya
QE-1, Kalanchevskaya ul. 21/40, MKrasnye Vorota,
tel. (+7) 495 627 55 50, www.moscow.hilton.com. 273
rooms (Room prices start at 6,000Rbl).
Hotel Baltschug Kempinski Moscow
QD-3, Ul. Baltschug 1, MNovokuznetskaya, tel. (+7)
495 287 20 00, www.kempinski.com/en/moscow. 227
rooms (Room prices start at 12,000Rbl).
Hotel National
QC-3, Mokhovaya ul. 15/1, bldg.1, MOkhotnyy Ryad,
tel. (+7) 495 258 70 00, www.national.ru. 202 rooms
(Room prices start at 8,500Rbl).
Hotel Savoy Moscow
QC-2, Ul. Rozhdestvenka 3/6, bldg. 1, MKuznetsky
Most, tel. (+7) 495 620 85 00, www.savoy.ru. 67 rooms
(Room prices start at 37,760Rbl).
48 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Hostels
Comrade Hostel
QD-2, Ul. Maroseyka 11, 3rd floor, MKitay Gorod, tel.
(+7) 495 628 31 26, www.comradehostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 600Rbl).
Godzillas
QC-1, Bol. Karetny per. 6, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel. (+7)
495 699 42 23, godzillashostel.com. 23 rooms (Room
prices start at 864Rbl).
iVan Hostel
QC-2, Petrovsky per.1/30, app 23, MChekhovskaya,
tel. (+7) 916 407 11 78, www.ivanhostel.com. 9 rooms
(Prices per bed start from 700Rbl).
4 stars
Adagio Moscow Paveletskaya
QD-5, Ul. Bakhrushina 11, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7)
495 720 53 01, www.accorhotels.com. 94 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,100Rbl).
AZIMUT Moscow Olympic Hotel
QOlimpiysky pr. 18/1, MProspekt Mira, tel. (+7) 495
931 90 00, www.azimuthotels.com. 486 rooms (Room
prices start at 5,500Rbl).
Best Western Plus Vega Hotel
& Convention Center
QIzmailovskoe shosse 71, bldg. 3V, MPartizanskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 956 05 06, www.hotel-vega.ru. 1000 rooms
(Room prices start at 3,600Rbl).
3 stars
Registrations: all foreign visitors to Russia are obliged to register within seven
working days (this excludes weekends and public holidays). Remember your hotel
is obliged to register you as staying in their hotel. If a hotel refuses to register you
make sure you complain the registrations is their responsibility, not yours!
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49
Shopping
Shopping
Russian Souvenirs
Russia is full of beautiful souvenirs and we are not just
talking about Russian dolls and Lenin badges. If you are
looking to take some extra special gifts home with you
we recommend you consider buying some of the following:
Platok
A perfect present for any female friend or relative. These
beautifully designed and colourful scarves can either
spruce up the outfit of a young lady by being worn
around the neck or serve to make your grandma look
even cuter than usual by being worn around the head.
Orenburgsky platok is another highly desirable type of
scarf made from the down hair of goats. The real hand
spun ones are very warm and yet also so delicate and
silk-like that the whole scarf can be pulled through a
womans wedding ring.
Caviar
Black beluga caviar is still one of the most expensive foods
on the planet and a small jar can set you back more than
$100 if you buy it in the market. Never buy caviar from
street touts, more often than not it is fake and/or illegal.
Shapka ushanka
If you want to look as much like a tourist as possible
during your time in Russia, but cool beyond belief back
home, then of course youll need to get a Russian fur hat
with ear flaps, called a shapka-ushanka. Anything with
red stars on it automatically earns you double spot-thetourist points. Most of the things you can get in markets
are made from fake fur, but, if youre willing to make an
investment, real fur hats (which are exceedingly warm)
can also be found in fur shops all over the city.
Valenki
Valenki are a unique piece of Russian footware, specially
designed for walking in deep snow. Traditional valenki
are very thick felt boot liners, usually without soles. If
you want to wear them about town you will need to buy
some rubber galoshes to cover the bottoms and ensure
that they dont get damaged. Made from sheeps wool,
valenki are said to be so warm and well insulated that
you can wear them without socks. In fact wearing them
without socks is preferred, since the rough wool is said
to exfoliate your skin as you walk.
Russian gifts
This huge arts and crafts shopping centre has everything
you could think of from traditional matryoshkas, khokhloma and samovars to beautiful rustic table cloths, exquisite
jewellery from across Russia, ceramics and more. QUl.
Zorge 9A bldg. 2, MPolezhaevskaya, tel. (+7) 495 984
71 54, www.russiangifts.ru. Open 09:30 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. ALK
Shaltai - Boltay
The name means Humpty Dumpty, but dont let the quaint
fairy tale title fool you. Located in the Novinsky Passazh,
the shop features all manner of designer and handmade
goodies for the modern sophisticate or contemporary
rebel, including jewellery, clothing, magnets and more
for just a bit of avant-garde flair in the home or on the
body. QA-2, Novinsky bul. 31 (in shopping center Novinsky Passazh), MBarrikadnaya, tel. +7 (495) 768 78
50, www.shaltai-boltai.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AL
Markets
Danilovsky
QUl. Mytnaya 74, tel. (+7) 958 17 25, www.danrinok.ru.
Open 08:00 - 20:00.
Dorogomilovsky
QUl. Mozhaisky Val 10, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 499 249
55 53, www.tkdor.ru. Open 07:00 - 22:00. N
Leningradsky Rynok
QUl. Chasovaya 11, MAeroport, tel. (+7) 495 151 78 71.
Open 07:00 - 20:00, Mon 07:00 - 18:00. N
Vernisazh in Izmailovo
QIzmailovskoye schosse 73zh, MPartizanskaya, tel.
(+7) 499 166 55 80, www.moscow-vernisage.com.
Open 09:00 - 18:00.
Shopping Centres
Atrium
QE-3, Ul. Zemlyanoy Val 33, MKurskaya, tel. (+7) 495
970 15 55, www.atrium.su. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
Evropeysky Shopping Centre
Q-4, Pl. Kievskogo Vokzala 2, MKievskaya, tel. (+7) 495
921 34 44, www.europe-tc.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00, Fri, Sat
10:00 - 23:00. AK
GUM
Q-3, Red Square, MPl. Revolutsy, tel. +7 495 788 43
43, www.gum.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
Prosto Tak
They say their shop doesnt sell only gifts, but by the look
of things on offer, there seems not much else to do with
these funny Soviet inspired ashtrays, passport covers and
toilet roll holders than give them away to someone. They
also have an interesting selection of T-shirts, badges and
bags. QD-3, Ul. Zabelina 3/7, MKitay Gorod, tel. +7 499
755 75 29, www.vot-tak.com. Open 11:00 - 21:00. A
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51
Shopping
Art salon on
starosadsky
This small gift shop is a veritable
Aladdins cave of semi-precious
stones, minerals and amber
handcrafted into unique jewellery, ornaments and decorative
items by talented local craftsmen. If you are looking to take
away an unique little piece of Russia, rather than another
item from the usual tourist conveyor belt then look no
further than these cabinets filled with items made from
gleaming Russian malachite, agate, jasper, the purest Baltic
amber and other lustrous precious stones. For something
even more exotic theyre also selling fragments of the
Sikhote-Alin meteorite that fell in Far Eastern Russia in 1947
and of the one that made the headlines in February 2013
in Chelyabinsk. In addition theres a large selection of paintings to be found, hand-painted lacquer boxes, traditional
scarves, Russian dolls and some exclusive majolica crafts
created by two famous Russian artists Natalya Pavlova and
Evgeny Shepelev.QD-3, Starosadsky per. 10, MKitay
Gorod, tel. (+7) 495 624 15 83, www.art-gemstones.ru.
Open 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
RAKETA WATCHES
Raketa is not only the oldest factory in Russia, but also the
only watch factory in the whole country. Additionally, it
is one of the only watch factories in the world, the only
others being Rolex and Swatch, that manufactures its own
movements; including the hair spring and escapement. It
was founded as a stone carving factory in 1721 by Peter
the Great, producing items for the Russian royal family.
After the outbreak of the Great Patriotic War of 1812, what
had become the Petrodvorets watch factory was reorganised to supply the Russian army with equipment. The
factory also provided the stones of Lenins Mausoleum,
and the famous red stars which you can see on top of the
Kremlins towers. The factory began producing watches in
1949 under the name Zvezda (star) and Pobeda (victory).
In 1961, Yuri Gagarin made the first flight in history into
outer space; the factory renamed the brand Raketa (rocket) to commemorate this. www.raketa.com.
Podium Concept Stor
QC-2,Ul.Kuznetsky most. 14, MKuznetsky most,
tel. (+7) 495 926 15 35, www.podiumfashion.com.
Open 12:00 23:00.
TSUM
Q4th Floor, C-2, Ul. Petrovka 2, MTeatralnaya, (+7)
495 933 73 00, www.tsum.ru. Open 10:00 22:00.
Tsvetnoy Central Market
Q4th Floor , C-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, MTsvetnoy bulvar, (+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open
10:00 22:00.
52 Moscow In Your Pocket
Business directory
Lotte Plaza
QA-3, Novinsky bul. 8, MSmolenskaya, tel. (+7) 495 641
25 00, www.lotteplaza.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. LKW
Metropolis shopping center
QLeningradskoye shosse 16A bldg.4, MVoykovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 660 88 88, www.metropolis-center.ru.
Open 10:00 - 23:00. AULKW
Novinsky
QNovinsky bul. 31, MBarrikadnaya, tel. (+7) 495 797
62 00, www.novinsky.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Okhotny Ryad
Q-3, Manezhnaya pl.1/2, MOkhotny Ryad, tel.
(+7) 495 737 84 49, www.ox-r.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AULKW
Tsvetnoy Central Market
QC-1, Tsvetnoy bul. 15, bldg. 1, MTsvetnoy Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 737 77 73, www.tsvetnoy.com. Open 10:00 22:00, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. AKW
Bookshops
Bookshop Moskva
QC-2, Ul. Tverskaya 8 bldg. 1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495
629 64 83, www.moscowbooks.ru. Open 10:00 - 01:00.
Business-Centre Bookbridge
QD-4, Ul. Bol. Tatarskaya 7, MNovokuznetskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 786 25 70, www.bookbridge.ru. Open 09:21:00.
Dom Inostrannoy Knigi
Q-2, Kuznetsky Most 18/7, MKuznetsky Most, tel.
(+7) 495 628 20 21, www.mdk-arbat.ru. Open 09:00 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 20:00. A
Respublika
QA-1, Ul. 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya 10, MMayakovskaya, tel. +7 (495) 251 65 27, www.respublica.ru. Open
24hrs. AKW
Torgovy Dom Biblio - Globus
QD-2, Ul. Myasnitskaya 6/3, bldg. 1, MLubyanka, tel.
(+7) 495 781 19 00, www.biblio-globus.ru. Open 09:00 22:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. AW
Supermarkets
Bakhetle
Q-1, 1-ya Tverskaya-Yamskaya, 21, MBelorusskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 781 73 80, www.bahetle.com. Open 24hrs. A
Gum Gastronom 1
QC-3, Red Square, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7) 495 788
43 43, www.gum.ru/shop/410. Open 24hrs. ALK
Hediard
QC-2, Ul. Bolshaya Dmitrovka 23 bldg. 1, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 692 81 66, www.hediard.ru. Open
08:00 - 23:00.
Yeliseevsky
Q-2, Ul. Tverskaya 14, MPushkinskaya, tel. (+7) 495 650
46 43, www.eliseevskiy.ru. Open 24hrs. Open 24hrs. A
Accountants
and Consultants
Awara
QB-2, Bol. Sadovaya ul. 10, off. 12, MMayakovskaya,
tel. (+7) 495 225 30 38, www.awaragroup.com.
Bauke van der Meer Tax & Legal Services
QC-5, Ul. Bol. Yakimanka 31/18, off. 203b, MPolyanka,
tel. (+7) 495 935 76 21, www.bvdmeer.nl.
Deloitte
QA-1, Lesnaya ul. 5b, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 787
06 00, www.deloitte.com.
Ernst and Young
QD-4, Sadovnicheskaya nab. 77, bldg. 1, MPaveletskaya, tel. (+7) 495 705 97 00, www.ey.com.
KPMG
QPresnenskaya nab. 10, complex Bashnya na naberejnoy, block C, MMezhdunarodnaya, tel. (+7) 495 937
44 77, www.kpmg.ru.
LowLands
QD-3, Khokhlovksy per. 13/1, MKitay Gorod, tel. (+7)
495 625 03 07, www.lowlands.ru.
Mega-Intel
Q1-y Shchipkovsky per. 4, MSerpukhovskaya, tel. (+7)
495 737 00 22, www.mega-intell.ru. Open 10:00 - 18:00,
Fri 10:00 - 17:00.
PricewaterhouseCoopers
QA-1, Business Centre Belaya Ploschad, ul. Butyrsky val.
10, MBelorusskaya, tel. (+7) 495 967 60 00, www.pwc.ru.
SHR Consulting
QE-4, Ul. Lva Tolstogo 23/7 bldg. 3, MPark Kultury, tel.
(+7) 495 748 55 50, www.senatorcompany.com.
The Lighthouse Group
QMytnaya ul. 3, entr. 2, office 41, MOktyabrskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 980 09 79, thelighthousegroup.ru. Open 09:00
- 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Business associations
Association of European Businesses
QB-1, Krasnoproletarskaya ul. 16, bldg. 3, entry 8,
MNovoslobodskaya, tel. (+7) 495 234 27 64, info@
aebrus.ru, www.aebrus.ru.
Finnish-Russian Chamber of Commerce
QE-3, Pokrovsky bul. 4/17, bldg. 4b, MChistye Prudy,
tel. (+7) 495 917 90 37, www.svkk.ru.
Hospitality Ideas and Trends Club
QD/E-2, Ul. Pokrovka 9, MChistye Prudy, tel. (+7) 495
623 59 46, hit@club-hit.ru, www.club-hit.ru.
Russian-German Chamber of Commerce
QC-3, 1-y Kazachy per. 7, MPolyanka, tel. (+7) 495 234
49 50, www.vdw.ru.
The American Chamber of Commerce
QB-1, Dolgorukovskaya ul. 7, 14th floor, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 495 961 21 41, www.amcham.ru.
The Russo-British Chamber of Commerce
Q-2, Tverskaya ul. 16, bldg.1, MTverskaya, tel. (+7)
495 961 21 60, www.rbcc.com.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
Exhibition and
conference centres
All Russian Exhibition Centre (VVTs)
QProspekt Mira 119, VVTs, MVDNKh, tel. (+7) 495 544
34 00, www.vvcentre.ru.
Central exhibition hall Manezh
QC-3, Manezh, Manezhnaya pl. 1, MBiblioteka im.
Lenina, tel. (+7) 495 645 92 77, www.russianmuseums.
info/M419.
Crocus Expo (International Exhibition
Centre)
Q65-66 km Moscow Ring Road (MKAD), MMyakinino,
tel. (+7) 495 727 26 26, www.crocus-expo.ru.
Expocentre
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab.14, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 499 795 37 99, www.expocentr.ru. Open 10:00 18:00.
Gostiny Dvor
QD-3, Ul. Ilyinka 4, MPloshchad Revolutsy, tel. (+7)
495 698 12 02, www.mosgd.ru/en. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
Sokolniki Culture & Exhibition Centre
(KVTS Sokolniki)
Q5-y Luchevoy prosek 7, bldg. 1, MSokolniki, tel. (+7)
495 995 05 95, www.exposokol.ru. Open 9:00 - 18:00.
World Trade Centre Moscow (WTC)
QKrasnopresnenskaya nab. 12, MVystavochnaya, tel.
(+7) 495 258 12 12, www.wtcmoscow.ru.
Recruitment
Antal Russia
QB-2, Tryokhprudny per. 9, bldg. 1B, off. 104, MTverskaya, tel. (+7) 495 935 86 06, www.antalrussia.com.
G-Nius Russia - Recruitment & Executive
search
QE-3, Khokhlovsky per. 13/1, MTaganskaya, tel. (+7)
495 665 71 10, www.g-nius.ru.
June - July 2015
53
Expat Contacts
American Womens Organisation
Qwww.awomoscow.org.
Australian and New Zealand Social
Group (AUSKI)
Qwww.gdaymoscow.com.
British Womens Club
Qwww.bwcmoscow.org.uk.
English Language Evenings (ELE)
Qwww.ELEMoscow.net.
Expat Football League
Qwww.moscowfootball.com.
EXPATinRUSSIA
Qwww.expatinrussia.com.
InterNations
Qwww.internations.org.
Moscou Accueil (French Womens Club)
Qwww.site-moskva-accueil.org.
MosKultInfo (German-Language
Community Newsletter)
Qwww.moskultinfo.wordpress.com.
Nederlandse Club Moskou (De Tulpen)
Qwww.nlclubmoskou.nl/tulpen#!tulpen/cpub.
Rotary Club Moscow International
Qwww.rcmi.ru.
SWEA (Swedish Womens Educational
Association)
Qwww.swea.org/moskva.
International Schools
Atlantic International School
QFestivalnaya ul. 7a, MRechnoy Vokzal, tel. (+7) 499
745 62 61; Skolkovo Park, MSlavyansky bulvar, tel. (+7)
968 651 72 82, www.atlanticschool.ru.
British International School
QBol. Akademicheskaya ul. 24 B, MVoykovskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 987 44 86, www.bismoscow.com.
Little Angels
QNovocheremushkinskaya ul. 49, office 12, MProfsoyuznaya, tel. (+7) 495 332 16 03, www.littleangels.ru.
Montessori School
QStarovolynskaya ul. 12/3, MSlavyansky Bulvar, tel.
(+7) 495 721 50 04, www.mosmontessori.ru. A
Ptit Cref
QB-3, Bol. Afanasyevsky per. 41, MArbatskaya, tel.
(+7) 495 697 20 06, www.ptitcref.com.
The Anglo-American School of Moscow
QBeregovaya ul. 1, MSokol, tel. (+7) 495 231 44 88,
www.aas.ru.
The International School of Moscow
QKrylatskaya ul. 12, bldg. 5, MKrylatskoe, tel. (+7) 499
922 44 00, www.internationalschool.ru.
IWC MOSCOW
Summer is the best time to get out and around Moscow
to explore the city and its a great time for getting together
and meeting new people! So why not seize the opportunity to check out the International Womens Club of Moscow
and what they offer? Join one of their free Coffee Mornings
to meet fellow expat ladies, have interesting chats, get useful hints for life in Moscow and enjoy a hot beverage and
delicious pastry! Learn more about the upcoming dates
and events on their website: www.iwcmoscow.ru
The English
International School
School offering education based on the English
National Curriculum for 3 to 18 year olds with small
classes and English-native teaching staff. Facilities
include sophisticated ICT systems, interactive
materials, libraries, and computer rooms. School
bus service is offered for Moscow city and district.
The school has 3 campuses in Moscow: West
(Molodogvardeyskaya ul. 9, metro Molodezhnaya),
South-West (Ul. Lobachevskogo 14, metro Prospekt
Vernadskogo) and East (66A Zeleny Prospekt, metro
Novogireevo). QFor more information: tel. (+7) 495
984 59 92, www.englishedmoscow.com
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
55
Charities
Childrens Hospital Fund
QShmitovsky pr. 23, bldg. 2, tel. (+7) 499 256 64 44,
www.childhospital.ru.
Marias Children Art Center
QC-2, Dmitrovsky per. 2/10, MOkhotny Ryad, tel. (+7)
495 692 48 70, www.mariaschildren.ru.
Big Brothers, Big Sisters of Russia
QUl. Matrosskaya Tishina 23 bldg. 1, MPreobrazhenskaya Plozhchad, tel. (+7) 495 500 40 42, www.
bbbsrussia.org.
Nastenka Foundation
QInstitute of Pediatric Oncology RCRC RAMS,
Kashirskoye shosse 23, MKashirskaya, tel. (+7) 495 980
53 77, www.nastenka.ru.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
S Lyogkim Parom!
You cant say that youve done Russia unless youve
experienced a banya. Its basically a bath house with
fun thrown in yet is also a ritual, although its origins
stretch back centuries to the days when bathing as we
know it didnt exist. Nowadays its more of a pastime
yet its useful to familiarise yourself; essentially you
will enter a hot, steaming room, work up a sweat and
then wash it off with cold water, but there is much
more to it than just an old-fashioned way of keeping
yourself clean.
Banyas range from a small, wooden shed to an ornate
building, such as the famous Sanduny (www.sanduny.
ru). Many wear a felt hat which helps to protect your
ears from the extreme heat you will strip off completely and head into a room where the temperature
is close to 100C, so slipping on a pair of flip-flops is a
wise move. The longer you stay in, the sweatier you
become, although hardcore banya aficionados can be
seen beating each other with birch branches, called
veniki which improves the circulation, apparently.
Water will be poured onto the hot stones to create additional steam, and eucalyptus is occasionally added
for a more authentic smell.
Once your body cannot stand any more, you exit the
banya into a cold pool to wash off all the sweat. This
could be anything from an indoor swimming pool to
a pond in the garden, and if you really want to show
off in winter months, you can roll around in the snow
although this is best done after a few vodka shots.
On the subject of refreshments, you wont be surprised to hear that there is often some alcohol involved after youve rinsed off sweat off yourself. Most
public banyas will have a small caf or shop selling
beer, soft drinks and snacks although the swankier
the venue, the better the fare (Sanduni boasts a large
menu, featuring Russian, Georgian and Uzbek cuisine,
plus an assortment of beverages from draught beer to
spirits. Then its back in for another round of banya, a
ritual which will be repeated several times until youre
ready to keel over!
Unless you are lucky enough to visit someone who
has their own banya, or rich enough to rent out the
entire premises, its likely to be a same-sex affair but
it is all completely innocent. Do bring along some toiletries and a towel for showering at the end. Banyas
are generally geared towards men but ladies can enjoy them too; Sanduny has a separate female section.
If you only learn one banya-related phrase, it has to
be S lyogkim parom which very roughly translates as
I hope the steam goes easy on you!
Written in collaboration with Antal Russia/Luc
Jones. For more information: www.antalrussia.com
June - July 2015
57
St. Petersburg
St. Petersburg
Russias capital city Moscow may be buzzing with business and pleasure, but sometimes its worth escaping for
a few days and a visit to St. Petersburg, Peter the Greats
Window on the West, is an ideal place to go if you are
looking for a city easily navigated on foot and filled with
history and beauty.
Bursting with world class museums, stunning waterside
panoramas, tranquil canals, beautiful neo-classical architecture and brimming with culture, theres more than
enough to enjoy at any time of year.
sightseeing
getting there
There are dozens of night trains travelling every day between Moscow and St. Petersburg, some of them modern and upscale like the Megapolis (see page 66), and
others more suitable for those on a small budget. In addition there are also many super-fast trains (called the
Sapsan) which make the journey in just over 4 hours
and travel daily during the morning, afternoon and
early evening. There are also of course frequent flight
connections between Moscows main airports and St.
Petersburgs Pulkovo airport.
Luxury Trains
If you are looking for a comfortable night train to the
Northern Capital it is worth considering taking a private
train. The cheerful Megapolis train leaves for St. Petersburg every night and offers a more hotel-like travel
experience. After being shown to your cabin you will
find your beds have already been made up with real
duvets rather than blankets, and all round the carriages
are spotless. Hot breakfast and coffee can be brought to
your room in the morning and if at any moment during
the trip you experience some problems you can call the
train attendant from the comfort of your bed and they
will come to you! If you want to wake up in Moscow
truly fresh in the morning, its worth the money.
Trains leave Leningradsky vokzal (metro Komsomolskaya) at 00:56 and arrive in St. Petersburg at 08:53.
For reservations call (+7) 495 35 44 11 or book online
at www.megapolis-te.ru
HOTELS
Angleterre Hotel
QMal. Morskaya ul. 24, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 56 66, www.angleterrehotel.com. 193 rooms.
hhhhh
Corinthia Hotel St. Petersburg
QNevsky pr. 57, MMayakovskaya, tel. (+7) 812 380 20
01, www.corinthia.com. 388 rooms. hhhhh
Four Seasons Hotel Lion Palace
St. Petersburg
QVoznesensky pr. 1, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7) 812
339 80 00, www.fourseasons.com/stpetersburg/. 183
rooms. hhhhh
Grand Hotel Europe
QMikhailovskaya ul. 1/7, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812
329 60 00, www.grandhoteleurope.com. 276 rooms.
hhhhh
Hotel Astoria
QBol. Morskaya ul. 39, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 494 57 57, www.thehotelastoria.com. 188 rooms.
hhhhh
Kempinski Hotel Moika 22
QNab. Reky Moiky 22, MAdmiralteiskaya, tel. (+7)
812 335 91 11, www.kempinski.com/stpetersburg. 197
rooms. hhhhh
Sokos Hotel Palace Bridge
QBirzhevoy per. 4, MVasileostrovskaya, tel. (+7) 812
335 22 00, www.sokoshotels.com. 324 rooms. hhhhh
shopping centres
Bolshoy Gostiny Dvor
QNevsky pr. 35, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 710 54 08,
www.bgd.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00. AK
DLT Department store
QBol. Konyushennaya ul. 21-23, MAdmiralteiskaya,
tel. (+7) 812 648 08 48, www.dlt.ru. Open 10:00 - 22:00.
AKW
GALERIA QLigovsky pr. 30A, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7)
812 643 31 72, www.galeria-spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
ALK
Nevsky Centre
QNevsky pr. 114-116, MPl. Vosstaniya, tel. (+7) 812
313 93 13, www.nevskycentre.ru. Open 10:00 - 23:00.
AKW
Passage
QNevsky pr. 48, MNevsky pr., tel. (+7) 812 315 52 57,
www.passage.spb.ru. Open 10:00 - 21:00, Sun 11:00 21:00. AK
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
59
Oryol
Oryol
Outside Oryol
Worth a half-day trip is Spasskoe-Lutovinovo, the family
estate of the famous Russian writer Ivan Turgenev, situated 65km north of Oryol, just outside the town of Mtsensk
which is an hour away by bus (60Rbl), plus ten minutes in
a cab (250Rbl). Although Turgenev himself lived mostly in
St. Petersburg, Moscow and abroad, he visited SpasskoeLutovinovo regularly and considered it to be his home.
Much of the estate was built in the 1850s but the main
house was restored in the 1970s and still contains some
of the original furniture, books and Turgenevs personal
items, such as a chess board. There are numerous other
buildings scattered across the estate, such as a church
and stables, plus a recently-constructed museum and gift
shop although the grounds themselves make for a pleasant stroll.
Oryol
Parks
Oryol has plenty of parks, the main one being the City
park of Culture and Rest, which features the impressive
Catherines Cathedral, and literary buffs may want to pay
a visit to the Turgenev museum which not surprisingly is
on ul. Turgeneva 11.
Where to stay
Nightlife
While most cities in eastern Europe now boast an Irish
pub, Oryol goes one better with an extremely up-market
British pub called Chester (Komsomolskaya ul. 36), although if youre looking for something a little more original, drop into Pint House (Pokrovskaya ul. 3) which used
to be a public toilet, but has been converted into a nononsense bar, with several house beers on tap, reasonably
priced Russian-bar food, and live bands in the evenings.
Also worth a mention is the quirky 3 Etazh caf (ul. Pushkina 6) with artistic designs adorning the walls, and the
pizza was pretty good too.
Getting There
Oryol doesnt have a functioning commercial airport,
so its the train, bus or car. Trains leave from Moscows
Kursky Vokzal (metro Kurskaya) and take 4-5 hours.
Since Oryol is one of the main stops en route to many
of Ukraines major cities, there are at least a dozen fast
trains every day, although its advisable to book well
in advance as these can fill up fast. Busses are slower,
taking around eight hours.
60 Moscow In Your Pocket
moscow.inyourpocket.com
Getting around
Its a good half an hour walk from the train or bus station into the centre, although cabs wait at both. There is
a huge eagle sculpture immediately opposite the train
station; dont expect many photo opportunities around
the bus station. If arriving by train, walk right out of the
station and down Moskovskaya ul. and you will eventually come to the tank memorial on Ploschad Mira (Peace
Square), featuring an original tank which helped to liberate the city.
Every town worth its salt has a memorial to those who
perished during the Second World War, and Oryol is no
exception; from there its a short walk to the bridge over
the Oka river. Heading right after crossing Duchy Park is
the confluence, or meeting point of the large Oka, and
smaller Orlik (which incidentally means small eagle in
Russian) rivers, and where a monument was recently
built to celebrate the 400th anniversary of the citys
founding.
www.facebook.com/MoscowInYourPocket
61
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12
10
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9
10-12
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7 KY PER.
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22
11
KITAY GOROD
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.
6
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36
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14
12
15
.
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13
65
UL
Maps
Street register
1905 Goda ul.
Akademika Sakharova pr.
Alexandra Nevskogo ul.
Alexandra Solzhenitsina ul.
Apakova pr.
Arbat ul.
Armyansky per.
Bakhrushina ul.
Balchug ul.
Bernikovskaya nab.
Bersenevskaya nab.
Bobrov per.
Bogoyavlensky per.
Bol. Afanasyevsky per.
Bol. Balkansky per.
Bol. Bronnaya ul.
Bol. Dmitrovka ul.
Bol. Dorogomilovskaya ul.
Bol. Gruzinskaya ul.
Bol. Karetny per.
Bol. Kazenny per.
Bol. Kharitonyevsky per.
Bol. Kiselny per.
Bol. Kislovsky per.
Bol. Kozikhinsky per.
Bol. Kozlovsky per.
Bol. Levshinsky per.
Bol. Lubyanka ul.
Bol. Molchanovka ul.
Bol. Nikitskaya ul.
Bol. Ordynka ul.
Bol. Palashevsky per.
Bol. Patriarshy per.
Bol. Polyanka ul.
Bol. Sadovaya ul.
Bol. Serpukhovskaya ul.
Bol. Spasskaya ul.
Bol. Staromonetny per.
Bol. Strochenovsky per.
Bol. Sukharevkaya pl.
Bol. Sukharevsky per.
Bol. Tatarskaya ul.
Bol. Tatarsky per.
Bol. Tishinsky per.
Bol. Vlasyevsky per.
Bol. Yakimanka ul.
Bol. Znamensky per.
Bolotnaya nab.
Bolotnaya pl.
Borodinskaya ul. (1ya)
Borodinskaya ul. (2ya)
Brestskaya ul. (1ya)
Brestskaya ul. (2ya)
Brodnikov per.
Butikovsky per.
Chayanova ul.
Chistoprudny bul.
Chisty per.
Delegatskaya ul.
Dobryninsky per. (1y)
Dokuchaev per.
Dolgorukovskaya ul.
Dubininskaya ul.
Durasovsky per.
Durova ul.
Ermolaevsky per.
Eropkinsky per.
Fadeeva ul.
Filippovsky per.
Furmanny per.
Gagarinsky per.
Gazetny per.
Gilyarovskogo ul.
Glazovsky per.
Gogolevsky bul.
Golikovsky per.
A-1/2
D-1/2
/B-1
E-4
C-4
B-3
D-2
D-5
D-3/4
E-3
C-4
D-2
C/D-3
B-3/4
D-1
B-2
C-2
A-4
A-1/2
C-1
E-2
E-2
C/D-2
C-3
B-2
E-2
B-4
D-2
B-3
B/C-3
D-4/5
B-2
B-2
C-4/5
B-1/2
C/D-5
E-1
C-4
D-5
D-1
D-1
D-4/5
D-5
A-1
B-4
C-5
B-3/4
C-4
C-4
A-3/4
A-3
A/B-1
A/B-1
C-4/5
B-4
B-1
D/E-2
B-4
C-1
C-5
D-1
B-1
D-5
E-3
C-1
B-2
B-4
B-1
B-3
E-2
B-4
C-2/3
D-1
A/B-4
B-3/4
D-4
C-4
E-4
E-4
E-4
E-2
B-2
D-1
D-2
C-3
D-3
C-4
C-4
E-1
B-3
C-5
C-5
E-2
C-5
E-3
B-4
B-3
D/E-3
C-5
A-4
D-4
D-2/3
A/B-3
E-1
F-6
A-2/3
D-1
B-4
C-5
D/E-4
D-1
D/E-4
D-4
C-2
A/B-1, B-2
C-3
A-2
A-3
B-1
E-1
C-3
D-2
B-4
E-5
E-5
B-5
B-5
B/C-5
B/C-4
A-3
C/D-2
C-1
C-4
F-6
B-2
A-1
D-2
E-2/3
B-2
B-1/2
A-2
C-1
B-2
B-2
D-4/5
C-5
D-1
C-4
B/C-3
C-3
C-3
E-4
Maronovsky per.
Maroseyka ul.
Mashkova ul.
Merzlyakovsky per.
Milyutinsky per.
Miusskaya pl.
Mohovaya ul.
Molochny per.
Monetchikovsky per. (2y)
Monetchikovsky per. (3y)
Monetchikovsky per. (5y)
Monetchikovsky per. (6y)
Moskvoretskaya nab.
Myasnitskaya ul.
Mytnaya ul.
Neglinnaya ul.
Nikitsky bul.
Nikitsky per.
Nikoloyamskaya ul.
Nikolskaya ul.
Nikolsky per.
N. Krasnokholmskaya ul.
N. Krasnoselskaya ul.
Novaya Basmannaya ul.
Novaya pl.
Novinsky bul.
Novokrymsky pr.
Novokuznetskaya ul.
Novokuznetsky per. (1y)
Novokuznetsky per. (2y)
Novoryazanskaya ul.
Novy Arbat ul.
Obydensky per. (2y)
Okhotny ryad ul.
Olimpiysky pr.
Ostozhenka ul.
Ovchinnikovskaya nab.
Ozerkovskaya nab.
Ozerkovsky per.
Paveletskaya pl.
Petrovka ul.
Petrovsky bul.
Petrovsky per.
Pyzhevsky per.
Pl. Nikitskie Vorota
Plotnikov per.
Plyushchikha ul.
Podkolokolny per.
Podsosensky per.
Pogorelsky per.
Pokrovka ul.
Pokrovsky bul.
Pomerantsev per.
Posledny per.
Potapovsky per.
Povarskaya ul.
Pozharsky per.
Prechistenskaya nab.
Prechistensky per.
Presnensky val ul.
Prospekt Mira
Pushechnaya ul.
Pushkinskaya nab.
Pushkinskaya pl.
Pyatnitskaya ul.
Pevchesky per.
Raushskaya nab.
Romanov per.
Rozhdestvenka ul.
Rozhdestvensky bul.
Runovsky per.
Rybny per.
Sadovaya-Karetnaya ul.
Sadovaya-Kudrinskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Spasskaya ul.
Sadovaya-Triumfalnaya ul.
C-5
D-2/3
E-2
B-3
D-2
B-1
C-3
B-4
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-5
D-3
D-2
C-5
C-2
B-3
C-2/3
E-3/4
C-2/3
D-3
E-4/5
E-1
E-1
D-2
A-2/3
B-5
D-4/5
D-5
D-5
E-1
A/B-3
B-4
C-2/3
C-1
B-4/5
D-4
D-4
D-4
D-5
C-2
C-1/2
C-2
C-4
B-2
B-3
A-4
E-3
E-3
C-5
D/E-2
E-3
B-4
D-1
D-2
B-2/3
B-4
C-4
B-4
A-1/2
D-1
C/D-2
B-5
C-2
D-4
D-3
D-3
C-3
C-2
C/D-2
D-4
C-3
B/C-1
A/B-2
E-1/2
B-1
Sadovnicheskaya ul.
Sadovnichesky proezd
Samotyochnaya ul.
Serebryanicheskaya nab.
Shchepkina ul.
Sivtsev Vrazhek per.
Skatertny per.
Smolensky bul.
Smolenskaya ul.
Sofiyskaya nab.
Soymonovsky proezd
Solyanka ul.
Spasonalivkovsky p.(1y)
Spiridonovka ul.
Spiridonyevsky per.
Sretenka ul.
Sretensky bul.
Stanislavskogo ul.
Staraya pl.
Starokonyushenny per.
Staromonetny per.
Starosadsky per.
Stary Tolmachevsky per.
Stoleshnikov per.
Stolyarny per.
Strastnoy bul.
Sushchevskaya ul.
Sytinsky per.
Tarasa Shevchenko nab.
Tatarskaya ul.
Teatralny proezd
Teterinsky per.
Triumfalnaya pl.
Trubnaya ul.
Trubnikovsky per.
Tryokhprudny per.
Tsvetnoy bul.
Tverskaya ul.
Tverskaya-Yamskaya ul.
Tverskoy bul.
Usacheva ul.
Ustyinsky pr.
Valovaya ul.
Varsonofyevsky per.
Varvarka ul.
Vasilyevsky spusk pl.
Vasilyevskaya ul.
Vasnetsova per.
V. Radishchevskaya ul.
V. Syromyatnicheskaya ul.
Volhonka ul.
Vorontsovo pole
Vorontsovskaya ul.
Vozdvizhenka ul.
Voznesensky per.
Vspolny per.
Yakimanskaya nab.
Yakimansky proezd
Yauzsky bul.
Zemlyanoy Val ul.
Zhitnaya ul.
Zhukovskogo ul.
Znamenka ul.
Zoologicheskaya ul.
D-3/4
D-3
C-1
E-3
D-1
B-3
B-2/3
A-4
A-4
C-3
B-4
D-3
C-5
B-2
B-2
D-1
C-1
C-2
C-3
B-3/4
C-4
D-2/3
D-4
C-2
A-2
C-1/2
B-1
B-2
A-3
D-5
C-2
E-4
B-1
C-1
A/B-3
B-2
C-1
B-1/2
A/B-1
B -2
F-6
D-3/4
D-5
C/D-2
C-3
D-3
A/B-1
C-1
E-4
E-3
C-3/4
E-3
E-4/5
B/C-3
B-2
B-2
C-4
C-4
E-3
E-2/3/4
C-5
E-2
B/C-3
A-1/2
Abbreviations
Ul. - Ulitsa
Per. - Pereulok
Pr. - Prospekt
Pl. - Ploschad
Bul. - Bulvar
Nab. - Naberezhnaya
Bol. - Bolshaya
Mal. - Malaya
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