Miss Hyperion Hydro

MISS HYPERION HYDRO - BUILD GUIDE

Notes:
*The Depron parts all have one side with hard-shell covering and one
side without. All the sponson HARD surfaces orient to the "outside
air". In most cases the decals go on Opposite Side from Hard
surfaces. Be careful during assembly that you have the right part
before gluing it in!
note: Left and Right are viewed looking down on Hydro from back
When you build the kit:
*The Depron parts have small attachment points to their parent
sheets to avoid falling out inadvertently. When you remove the
parts, you'll cut through these with a knife. After that, use 180-grit
sandpaper to knock down any remaining high spots on the Depron
parts.
* To obtain the best fit and finish, you will want to test fit each piece
before gluing. In most cases, the tabs of parts which fit into parts A
need less than 1mm trimming to fit (see pic 8)
Standard CA glues and many other glue types CANNOT be
used, as they will melt foam.
DEPRON PARTS SURFACE ORIENTATION

PARTS:
A1, A2 >
SOFT side goes UP (decals go on soft side)
B > Only one orientation possible

C1, C2 >
SOFT side goes UP
D1, D2 > SOFT side Faces OUT (decals go on soft sides)

I1, I2 > SOFT side Faces OUT (decals go on soft sides)
E1 (R-sponson)> HARD side faces OUT (to center of hydro)
E2 (L-sponson)> HARD side faces OUT (to center of hydro)
Remainder of sponson parts (F, G, I, K, P) also have their HARD surfaces on
the OUTSIDE of the sponsons, and therefore soft sides are facing to inside the
sponson.
H1, H2 > HARD sides face OUT
N > HARD side faces OUT
Epoxy: Absolutely required for attachment of vertical stab/rudder

assemblies to the main deck (parts A), and for the motor mount plate Q > HARD sides face OUT
attachment. Perhaps the "best" glue overall (in a THIN film), but
R1, R2 (we won't use these...)
difficult and messy.
Servo Mount is unmarked in PARTS LIST - HARD side faces UP

Medium Viscosity Foam Safe CA: Easiest way to build. Test fit
parts, trim as needed, re-fit, tape and wick glue into all joints. Then
mist with foam-safe accelerator. When the model is finished, force
white silicone sealant into any remaining gaps.
Required Tools:
*Small and Medium-sized phillips (+) screwdrivers
*SHARP hobby knife (like X-acto #11)
*Small needle-nosed pliers
*Small SHARP Retractable Knife (OLFA #02)
*Vinyl "electricians" tape
*A black marker pen
*Epoxy 2-Part Glue, 10~12 Minute type suggested
*Sharp scissors
*Straightedge ruler (thin metal type is best)
*CA Medium or Thick FOAM SAFE "super glue"
*CA Regular "Super Thin" "super glue"
*CA Glue ACCELERATOR - FOAM SAFE TYPE
*Heat Gun (or a butane lighter, if you are careful)
STEP-BY-STEP
PIC 1
PIC 2
PIC 3
PIC 1: Mix some 10-minute epoxy and lay a thin film between parts A1 and A2. Join A1 and A2 on top of some wax paper, and tape across the joint
at front, middle, bottom. Lay more wax paper on top and keep flat with a telephone directory or other large, heavy object (but not too heavy!).
Parts A1 and A2 are henceforth called "Assy A".
PICS 2, 3, 4: Lay Assy A on top of the Right-Side Decal Sheet, match lines, and cut RIGHT SIDE decal as shown in Pics 2 and 3. Do NOT trim
tightly around the decal at this point! We'll trim it after applied to Assy A.
PICS4: The DECAL IS APPLIED TO THE SOFT SIDE OF ASSY A! Peel back only a few inches of the decal backing. Key the decal to rear location
(left-side blue arrow in pic 3) and line up the decal along the inside edge of the Right sponson. Work your finger across the decal as you slowly pull
away the backing, until the decal is fully applied to right side of Assy A.
file:///C|/miss-hydro/MISS%20HYPERION%20HYDRO%20-%20BUILD%20GUIDE.htm (1 of 5)09-08-2006 16:17:47
PIC 4
PIC 5
PIC 6
PIC 5: Turn Assy A over, and lay Part C2 on top of the excess decal as shown in Pic 5. C2 should have about 2mm gap from Assy A on the left side,
and a hairline gap at hinge line of C2 and Assy A.
Now trim around C2, but do NOT cut the decal area on left side 2mm gap yet. We will apply decals to all control surfaces, and only cut the
control surfaces free after we have completed construction and set up the transmitter and servos.
PIC 6: Now trim the LEFT SIDE decal sheet for Assy A as shown. About 3mm of one Checker's grey is removed.
Apply Decal to Left Side of Assy A as you already did for Right side. Attach part C1 as you did C2 (pic 5) before, and trim top decal. Remember NOT
to cut C2 entirely free yet!
PIC 7
PIC 8
PIC 7: Cut decal away from ONLY the slots shown with red dots.
PIC 9
PIC 8: For all parts which are glued to the BOTTOM side of Assy A, test fit and shave tabs slightly as needed. We don't want the tabs to contact the
decal sheet above, as that would stop the parts from fitting tightly to Assy A. (a ruler helps here)
PIC 9: (Right Sponson shown) Parts K and P meet Assy A at an angle. It is easiest to bevel the joints using some 180-grit sandpaper on a small
block, then use a sharp knife to trim the sections near the tabs which can't be reached with sandpaper.
PIC 11
PIC 12
PIC 13
Note: Decals on Right-Left Rudders Parts D and I, and on Elevator Parts L and M go on the SOFT sides of the Depron.
PIC 11: Apply vinyl tape on HARD side of Parts D and I to hold them together, with a hairline gap at hinge line and centered top/bottom. Use the
assemblies to guide you in cutting out the Rudder decals, and leave excess at the top, as shown right side of PIC 11.
PIC 12: Finished R/L Rudder Assemblies should look like this. Do NOT cut the Rudders free at top/bottom yet!
PIC 13: Follow similar procedure on Elevator Parts L and M; Taping on HARD sides and applying Decal on SOFT.
Remove Vinyl tape from Rudder and Elevator assemblies now.
PIC 13
PIC 14
PIC 15
PIC 13: Test fit and trim all parts which make up the sponson assemblies (Parts E, F, G, I, K, P). Now fit both Right and Left Side Rudders Parts I
to Assy A. Trim around the RED area shown in PIC 13 to remove the decal below. DO NOT CUT INTO ASSY A! Use a very sharp knife and make a
light pass, then try to pull away the decal. Lightly stroke as needed to cut the decal free.
Sponson Assembly Order: (note: pics 11, and 12 do not show assembly order)
(1) Parts E and K are assembled together and glued into Assy A
(2) Parts I are glued to Assy A and Parts K. Be SURE to use Epoxy glue in sufficient quantity to mate Parts I to the area from which decal was
removed in PIC 13.
(3) Parts G are glued into Parts E and I.
PIC 14 - While not necessary, a section of scrap Depron can be pinned and glued along bottom edge of Parts E to lend extra strength to the
sponsons. A piece 1 cm width starting at Parts K and tapering down to a point at nose of sponsons works well.
(4) Use Vinyl Tape to tightly hold Parts P to Assy A and Parts K. Glue into place.
(5) Use Vinyl Tape to tightly hold Parts F and glue them into place, as shown in PIC 15.
PIC 16
PIC 17
PIC 18
PIC 16: One of the small "Miss Hyperion" decals has an outline as shown right-side of PIC 16. Cut to this shape.
NOTE: Center Rudder Parts B and J are an exception to the Rule! Apply vinyl tape as shown in Pic 16 to the SOFT SIDE of Parts B and J, with
hairline hinge gap and centering of rudder top/bottom.
PIC 17: Now turn the center rudder assembly over, and use the Miss Hyperion decal for the hinge tape. Remove the vinyl tape, and apply another
Miss Hyperion decal on opposite side of rudder. This decal should be trimmed tightly to the design. After radio setup is finished, we will cut the decal
at the hinge line to free the rudder.
All control horns will be installed now.
See Pic 17: Cut a new slot for center rudder control horn (horn "C" in pic 18). The rear edge of the new slot should be located 2cm from trailing edge
of rudder, as shown Pic 17.
For control horns, use ONLY EPOXY glue. Open a little extra space to allow glue good contact, and build up fillets at every junction of horn and
Depron surface.
See Horns in Pic 18:
C horn: Centered in Rudder Part J, in new location shown Pic 17.
A horns: Install in Lower Elevator Parts C. Open horn slots as needed, such that the horn leading edge is lined up with the edge of bevel, as shown
by RED line in Pic 19 below. The LEFT SIDE of Horns A in Pic 18 orient toward REAR of Hydro (ie: the "taller" holes connect to Carbon Pushrods and
therefore the servos)
B horns: Install 2 in Upper Elevator Parts L. Open horn slots in the Depron as needed, such that the horn leading edge is lined up with the edge of
bevel, as shown by RED line in Pic 19 below.
B horns: Install 2 in R/L Rudder Parts D. Open horn slots as needed, such that the horn leading edge is lined up with the trailing edge of Rudder, as
shown by BLUE line in Pic 19 below.
B horns: Install 1 in Center rudder, so that the horn is on the Right Side of the Rudder (see Pic 17).
PIC 19
PIC 20
PIC 21
PIC 20: Here you need to make a decision. The HP Depron Hydro has 3 degrees up thrust built-in. Hydro models running on grass need 3
degrees up-thrust in the motor mount to keep the front end light when first accelerating. Otherwise the sponsons just "plow" into the grass. On the
other hand, if you want to run on water at high speed, you will find that the up-thrust will cause the Hydro to fly when you aren't ready, and causes
the rear to drag rather than getting on step properly.
If you intend to run primarily on water (or very short grass), open up the rear of the two bottom slots for motor mount plate in Parts H such that the
motor mount can be angled slightly down. "Close" is good enough, but we are trying to set up/down thrust to zero degrees for water.
Cockpit Assy: Now assemble Parts H, Servo Mount (unmarked in Parts List), and Motor Mount Wood Pieces as shown. Glue Motor Mount wood
pieces with EPOXY only. Cut four strips from the Depron 5mm wide and 34mm long, and epoxy them into the corners of Parts H and the wood
motor mount plate, on both sides of the wood plate, with hard Depron surfaces facing each other.
PIC 21: Attach the Assembly from Pic 20 to Assy A. You need not remove any decal from Assy A, but do "scuff" the decal areas under Cockpit
Parts H with 180-grit sandpaper before gluing.
Install Servos as shown. Servo Horns should all be oriented toward the Rear of Hydro (ie: pushrods need to be as short as possible). Also see
location of receiver and ESC. Both should be located as close to the servos as possible, on Parts H, and all the way down against Assy A. If the
Hydro turns over on water, these area stay dry for quite some time, due to the floatation provided by the Cockpit.
Now Install Center Rudder Assembly Parts B and J. Refer to Pic 13 again and remove the Decal from Assy A under Part B in the same way. Use
EPOXY Glue for all joints.
While holding R/L Rudders spread apart, insert Upper Elevator Assy Parts L and M into Center Rudder Part B. Now fit R/L Rudder Parts I to Upper
Elevator Assy Part M. Glue all joints.
PIC 22
PIC 23
PIC 24
PIC 22: The factory uses either multiple 0.8mm carbon rods or single 1.5mm rods for pushrods from Servos to control surfaces. If you have the
multiple 0.8mm, cut one of the long rods in half, so you get the arrangement as seen in Pic 22.
Pushrods: Temporarily install Servo Horns and drill horn holes, if needed, to fit 1mm Z-Bend rods. Turn on Transmitter and center servos, then
install servo horns so they point straight up. Now compare the carbon pushrod lengths to distance from servo horn to Center Rudder Horn, and trim
carbon rods if needed. The rods should be about 2cm shorter than the total distance between horns.
PIC23: Shows setup for ELEVATOR pushrods. Assemble the rods as shown in Pic 23 (or use the single 1.5mm rods), so that about 1cm of wire ZBend protrudes past the carbon rods as seen in Pic 24. Use heat gun (or lighter, carefully) to shrink the tubing tight, then wick fast CA glue into the
tubing on ONLY ONE SIDE of the pushrod. Leave the other side un-glued for now, to allow adjustability.
PIC 25
PIC 26
PIC 25: Cut across the BLUE line shown bottom of Cockpit cover Part N about deep, not all the way through. At this point all control surfaces
should still be locked into Neutral position. Turn on your Radio Transmitter. Set your radio for Elevon mixing, and all trims to zero. Remove all servo
horns from servos. Install one RUDDER Pushrod Z-Bend into the CENTER RUDDER Horn. Slide Part N onto the pushrod as shown in Pic 25. Slide
remaining Z-Bend onto Rudder Servo Horn. ADJUST pushrod length so that there is no tension on Rudder horn and re-install horn on servo, with arm
pointing 90 degrees up. ONE side of pushrod has not yet been CA glued. Use fast CA now to wick into the shrink tubing, and all down the length of
pushrod, if using multiple 0.8mm carbon rods. Repeat the same process with Right/Left Elevator Carbon Pushrods and Elevator Servos. Turn off
Transmitter. Glue cockpit cover to Parts H from rear to BLUE line. The remaining portion is now hinged, and you can use white vinyl tape to secure
the cover at front, near motor mount plate.
PIC 26: The remaining metal pushrods connect Upper/Lower Elevators together, and Right/Left Rudders to Center Rudder. FIRST, use pliers to
make 90-degree bends next to the Z-Bends of the 4 pcs LONG rods, as shown left side of Pic 26. Now insert Z-Bend ends of the SHORTER pair of
LONG rods into the FRONT hole set in wood Lower Elevator Horns. Rotate the rods up toward the Upper Elevator Horns, and shorten as needed. They
should stop about 1cm short of the Upper Horns. Slip a 2 cm piece of shrink tube over the LONG rod, then insert Short Z-Bend in Upper Elevator
Horns. Assemble both rods together with the shrink tube. Hold the Hydro so heat is not directed toward Depron surfaces, and shrink the
tubing tight to join the pushrods. Wick thin CA glue into the tubing joint.
Repeat process with Center Rudder Horns to R/L Rudder horns; the LONG Rod
Z-Bends go to the Center Rudder Horn. When done, it should look similar to
large picture right. (note: in the picture, the builder made the 90-degree bends
in the SHORT pushrods to Center Rudder, instead of in the LONG rods as we
instruct)
Now cut away the decal portions which are locking the control surfaces. Do not
merely slice down the middle, as that will cause interference as the decal edges
pass each other during deflection. Instead, cut on each side of the gap, so you
remove strips of decal about 2mm wide.
Control surface Trim should be very close to zero at this point. CHECK: RightSide Elevator deflects UP for RIGHT Aileron, and Left Elevator moves DOWN.
Make final trim adjustments. Some down trim is required if you have the stock
3-degree up-thrust in motor mount.
*If you have not flown this type of model before, set surface travel to:
Aileron - 1cm
Elevator - 1.2cm
Rudder - 2.5cm
And set Dual-Rate Switches for 60% of these throws. Also, Exponential (soft
control near stick center) is very helpful on Aileron. Turns are made mainly
with rudder, using a little aileron.
Balance (CG): The model should balance at the "Step" of the sponsons, up to 1.0cm behind the step for experienced and/or "3D" pilots.
Motor Installation: Mounting the motor OUTSIDE the model allows CG to easily reach the Sponson Step, and is highly recommended for beginners, or
for anyone driving at high speed on water or in flight. In this case, you must install a 3mm collar on the Z2209 main motor shaft and back mount
the motor as shown right. BE CAREFUL that the motor screws are not too long. They should enter the motor 5mm at maximum, or damage may
result.
If you are an experienced pilot and plan to run mainly on grass and/or do slow-speed 3D-ish flight, you may prefer mounting the motor inside the
cockpit area.
Use 700 to 1000mAh 3S lithium battery packs which are rated for 10A continuous and 15A short-time, or better. For running on water, we like the
APC "E" 7x5 prop, and for grass/3D pilots the 8x3.8" SF prop.
HAVE FUN!

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MISS HYPERION HYDRO - BUILD GUIDE