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INSPIRATION DESIGN:
A CASE STUDY
A Thesis
Presented to
The Faculty of the Fashion Design Program
Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and Design
Philippine Womens College of Davao
Davao City
In Partial Fulfillment
of the Requirements for the
Degree in Bachelor of Fine Arts
in Fashion Design
By
Marri Leane Kaye A. Bentinganan
March 2014
_______________________________
Adviser
Approved by the Panel of Oral Examination in the Philippine Womens
College of Davao Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts and Design, with a grade
of ________________.
_______________________________
Chairman
______________________
Member
______________________
Member
_____________________
Member
____________________
Member
Chapter 1
Introduction
To come up with a capsule collection, consisting of a 5-piece womens
wear cruise apparel collection, the designer was challenged to study and explore
one of the most important collections by Dubai-based fashion designer Garimon
Escandor Roferos. According to Manila Bulletin, His designs are the
artist’s handwriting of the times that we live in, a mirror of costume and
society, and the many possible changes that can happen, if we only allow
ourselves, like Garimon, to push forward and thread our thoughts and stories.
His Haute Couture Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies last 2003 held at
Carousel de Louvre in Paris France awarded with citation turned out to be the
reference point to conceptualize this designers interpretation for a ready-to-wear
cruise collection for women.
An experiential study on Roferos idea of integrating weaved-associated
element into his modernize collection is the basis to construct my own
experimental interpretation that will be establishing a 5 piece apparel collection.
This study will allow me to present a new look to the Philippine butterfly of our
ancestors. Younger and vibrant designs will be made to the benefit of the
modernized society.
This study is also part of the on-going efforts of the Fashion Design
Program of the Helena Z Benitez School of Fine Arts & Design to encourage
students to acquaint themselves with Mindanaoan designers who have made
their presence felt and their works acknowledged in the global fashion industry. A
mentoring-partnership with identified designers, mostly alumni of the longrunning Moda Mindanao and Urog Etnika Fashion Design Competitions, further
pushed this study to engage students in the professional practice of designers by
developing their own concepts and further translating them into a capsule
collection as inspired by specific bodies of work of the said designers.
Research Questions
1. What is the concept of Garimon Roferos?
2. What are the inspirational designs of his collection?
3. How do I execute Garimon Roferos Hand Woven Lilies Haute Couture
Clothing in my own cruise collection?
Theoretical Lens
There are already a lot of people using woven lilies for making baskets, bags,
scarves, and hair extensions but only a few of designers have thought that it can
be also used to create apparel.
Other than that, there is a book wherein there are instructions on how to
weave. The book is entitled The Lily Speed-O-Weave Loom Book.
Chapter 2
Related Literature
HISTORY OF WEAVING
Weaving is probably as old as human civilization. One of the basic necessities of
humans is to cover their bodies to protect themselves from outside effects (hot,
cold) and look more "civilized" to the eye. Other reasons for development of
different clothing throughout the history are social status, religious requirements,
etc. Clothing trends depend on location as well as historical findings suggest that
Egyptians made woven fabrics some 6000 years ago. Chinese made fine fabrics
from silk over 4000 years ago. It is believed that the hand loom has been
invented many times indifferent civilizations. Weaving started as a domestic art
and stayed as a cottage industry until the invention of the fly shuttle. The fly
shuttle, invented in 1733 by Kay was hand operated. In 1745, de Vaucanson
made a loom, further developed by Jacquard, to control each warp end
separately. In 1785, Cartwright invented the power loom which could be
operated from a single point. In the early1800s, looms made of cast iron, were
operated by steam power. Power loom required stronger warp yarn, resulting in
development of the first sizing machine in 1803. In the 1830s, there were some
100,000shuttle looms operating in England. The processing principles of these
looms were pretty much the today's shuttle looms. In the early 20th century,
improvements were made in the winding and warping of yarns. The looms were
improved further, including warp tying machines and warp drawing-in machines.
After the end of the World War II, the modern textile industry began to emerge.
Invention of synthetic Fibers changed the scope of textile industry drastically. In
1930 an engineer named Rossmann developed the first prototype of projectile
weaving machines. In1953 the first commercial projectile weaving machines
were shipped. Production of rapier and air jet weaving machines started in 1972
and 1975, respectively. The fundamental principle of weaving has remained
unchanged for centuries. Today, as in the past, woven fabrics are made by
crossing yams over and under at right angles to one and-other. This method of
producing textiles has many advantages, e.g., stability and resistance to
deformation by compression and tensile stress.
(Sabit Adanur, 2012)
The most commonly used fabric forming methods are weaving, knitting, braiding,
tufting, and nonwoven manufacturing.1.
1. WEAVING: Weaving is the interlacing of warp and filling yams perpendicular
to each other. There are practically an endless number of ways of interlacing
warp and filling yarns. Each different way results in a different fabric structure.
2. KNITTING: Knitting is inter looping of one yam system into vertical columns
and horizontal rows of loops called wales and courses, respectively. There are
two main types of knitting: weft knitting and warp knitting. Inweft knitting, the
yarns flow along the horizontal direction in the structure (filling or course
direction); inwarp knitting, they flow along the vertical direction (warp or wale
direction).Special needles are used to form the yarn loops. The basis of knit
fabric structure is the continuing intersection of loops. This feature provides
unique characteristics to the knit fabrics compared to woven and braided fabrics.
Practically, there are an endless number of knit fabric structures. Knit fabrics are
widely used in apparel and home furnishings. They are also used in technical
textiles, such as artificial arteries (veins), bandages, casts, composites, sporting
equipment, etc.
3. BRAIDING: Braiding is probably the simplest way of fabric formation. A braided
fabric is formed by diagonal interlacing of yarns. Although there are two sets of
yarns involved in the process, these are not called warps and fillings as in the
case of woven fabrics. Each set of yarns moves in an opposite direction. Braiding
does not require shedding, filling insertion, and beat up. The yams do not have to
go through harnesses and reed. Braiding is generally classified as two
Inspiration: In their search for inspiration, designers must learn to keep their
eyes and ears open. Colleges encourage students to paint and draw from life
and nature as primary source of design.
Personal Creativity and style: People do their own thing. Some are romantic
things, some do conceptual, and some do commercial. You cant compare us
because we are doing what we want.
Presentation: A good presentation will give those who to see it a window onto a
fashion designers thinking processes and clues as to the origination of fashion
designers idea.
The critique and assessment: The critique is the occasion on which staff
evaluate fashion designers response to the brief (Jones, 2002). It is also an
objective and a subjective assessment of how a fashion designer has fulfilled the
requirements. It is also an exchange of ideas. Assessment is a matter of
judgment, not simply of computation.
(Jones, 2002)
cultural influences on buying behavior may vary greatly from country to country.
(Asifo Shah, 2010.) For example, a culture in Thai, People will wear Thai dress
like Sabai and Jong-kra-ben in an official Thai Style custom. In Japan, culture will
dress Kimono as Japanese traditional garment. And the Hanbok, semi-formal or
formal wear during traditional festivals and celebrations in Korea. (Wikipedia,
2011.)
Identity
Concerning Identity factors, these play a strong influence on consumers
behavior in fashion clothing, as some of them choose a product simply by
reliance, mood, personal style, celebrities influence or even brand image.
Fashion is based on mood and emotions as being aesthetically beautiful,
conquering others, the emotional factors being on the basis of consumer's
feelings and emotions. The wish to be involved with fashion is an emotional
factor that leads consumers to buy fashion clothes, as they want them to be
modern and attractive. Often, the purchase of fashion clothes is not done by
need but for pleasure. According to Tay (2008), the behaviour of the modern
consumer lies on looking for pleasure with the consumption experience itself.
Frequently, people looks for new stimuli, new sensations and, as pleasure is
subjective and personal, consumption is thus oriented by the individual themself.
For example, people will have an opportunity to spend money for clothing when
they feel good or satisfied with it. (Eun Joo Park, 2006.)
everyday lives of people living in every societies, and undoubtedly one of the
effects of such media saturation is the pervasive transmission of celebrity ideals.
More recently, advertisers have begun attempting to quantify and qualify the use
of celebrities in their marketing campaigns by evaluating their awareness,
appeal, and relevance to a brand's image and the celebrity's influence on
consumer buying behavior. For fashion trends to the way their dress, the
attractiveness of a celebrity's lifestyle can be the important factor that influence
people's beliefs, interests and behaviors to follow the trend of fashion clothing. In
example, celebrities have become the trendsetters in fashion. From red carpet
award shows to celebrity gossip magazines, media coverage of "who" a celebrity
is wearing can influence a person's decision to buy the latest designer clothing
and accessories.
Brand is a powerful tool to attract more consumers to buy particular products,
especially clothing. Some may even regarded it as equity as it can add values to
the products. With a well known brand name, consumers would appear to be
more likely to purchase the products in much higher prices. As far as the same
level of product quality is concerned, consumers would prefer buying brandname products (Bello and Holbrook, 1995). Several brands, under the influence
of globalization and concerted efforts from media advertising, have become
popular not only in their country of origin, but also in other markets with high
potential. Having a strong and remarkable brand image could help establish an
identity in marketplace (Aaker, 1996), widen the profit margins, encourage
greater intermediary co-operation as well as increase the chance for further
brand extension (Delgado-Ballester and Munuera-Aleman, 2005).
In accordance with Delong et al. (2004), consumers appear to rely on the brand
image as long as they have little knowledge about the brand. Successful
branding could make consumers aware of the presence of the brand and hence
could increase the chance of buying the companys products and services
(Doyle, 1999).
Lifestyle
The way of life is another factor that influences the consumer buying behavior, as
a given garment is intended to a given life style. Consumers frequently choose
certain kinds of products, services and activities since these are associated to a
certain life style such as profession, quality, and price. Occupation also
influences garment purchasing decision. It can be related to each person
possesses different roles and status in the society depending upon the groups,
clubs, family, organization etc. to which they belongs. For example a woman is
working in an organization as finance manager. Now she is playing two roles,
one of finance manager and other of mother. Therefore her buying decisions will
be influenced by her role and status. As a manager of an organization, she will
try to purchase business suits, whereas while at home she will purchase informal
garments like t-shirt.
Quality of clothing is considered as the main factors of consumer towards buying
decision. The consumer will look at the quality and durability of products that it
can be used in a long time and appropriate to a price or not. The design is also
an important motivation for purchasing and consumption of fashion, since, in a
garment, consumers give more and more relevance to aesthetical appearance,
like the line and look, among many others. The characteristics or attributes of
fashion products also influence purchasing, since they interfere on the value,
style and quality of product. (Hong et al., 2002; Wickliffe and Psysarchik, 2001).
Price is a factor that influences a lot the purchase of a product since consumers
consider a better product the one with better price (Hanf and Wersebe, 1994).
The acceptance of a product is reached when there is equilibrium between value
and price that the consumer is willing to pay for it. In general, the consumer
considers a low price product the one that is outdated or with low quality.
However, financial capacity is evidently a factor that influences the purchasing
process, as the higher it is, the higher the acquisition power and garment
consumption. In other words, demographic factors, age, monthly income, living
place, marital status, professional situation ally make an individual to choose
certain brands or stores, instead of others (Paulins and Geisteld, 2003). For
example, If the income and savings of a customer is high then they will purchase
more expensive clothes and consider to a brand. On the other hand, a person
with low income and savings will purchase inexpensive clothes and neglect to an
image of brand.
Store Environment
Store Environment is an important factor that influencing fashion shopper to
decide in buying the garments. Shoppers perceptions of a store environment
may also have an impact on their mood while shopping (Chebat and Michon,
2003). Perception of the mall environment has been found to be an antecedent to
arousal (Baker et al., 1994). Darden et al. (1983) suggest that shoppers attitude
towards a mall environment may be more important in influencing affective
response than attitude towards a product. An effective mall shopping
environment may increase shopping value and induce consumers to exhibit
increased approach behaviors and staying longer in the mall (Stoel et al., 2004).
Moreover, the consumer tend to be like store where locate near the house which
is their behavior will lead to a high store loyalty, because consumers tend to
minimize the time of shopping, hence they return to the shop they know best,
where they are most likely to find the exact product they are looking for.
Mall operators and retailers are recognizing more and more the positive impact of
the environment on shopping behavior (Laroche et al., 2005; Stoel et al., 2004).
A store environment can be an important basis for consumers evaluation of the
products (Baker et al., 1994). Research suggest that ambient cues (physical
aspects of store environment, such as lighting, music, color, and display, etc.)
and social cues (the perception of crowding and friendliness of employees) are
important atmospheric factors that influence consumers affective states in the
store environment, which in turn, impact their shopping and purchasing behavior
(Baker et al., 1992; Turley and Milliman, 2000). Further, consumers perceptions
of the store environment influenced their perceptions of product quality. The
studies suggest that consumers mall perceptions influence their evaluations of
the products available at the mall. (Chebat and Michon, 2003) Moreover, Fashion
shopper will have positive behavior to buy the garment in the department store, if
there are good promotions and the discount period from the stores take place.
Chapter 3
Methodology
The study will use a two level process in addressing the goals of the study.
Chapter 4
Interview results and background information of the participants of the
study
Interview Guide Questionnaire
Fashion Designer
1.
2.
3.
4.
Clothing?
5. What are the inspirational designs of this collection?
6. How have you thought of using woven lily for the Haute Couture Hand
Woven Lilies Clothing?
7. How do you construct a design?
8. How do you define a good design?
9. What suggestions can you give for all those who are aspiring to be good
fashion designers?
Workers
1. Since when did you start working for Garimon Roferos?
2. What can you say about Garimon designs?
3. Do you easily understand/recognize Garimons designs?
4. Hows working for Garimon Roferos?
Profiling of Persons
Fashion Designer
Garimon Escandor Roferos has been in the fashion industry for 25 years. For
him fashion is a statement not a style. According to him, some people believe
that the fashion industry has nothing to do with them or their lives and they try to
stay away from the influence of this industry. However, this is nearly impossible to
do. The fashion industry is so huge and is so highly incorporated into nearly
every form of media that it is so hard to get away from. Sometimes people aren't
even aware that the media is influencing them to follow certain fashion trends.
His concept to his Haute Couture Hand Woven Lilies Clothing is weaving organic
botanical material as a wearable piece. The inspirational designs about the
clothing were ecology and environment. He used Water Lily for his garment
because thought about using new material for haute couture as a unique new
piece. He did a crazy weave, a free way in hand woven work. He defines a good
design by its shapes and structures. As what he said, Fearless create new things
in fashion designing focus and love your works, aspire and inspire.
Worker/Designer peer
Peter Greg Recto or petra as what they call him is one of the workers of Mr.
Garimon Roferos and one of his peer designers as well. He has been working for
Mr. Roferos for almost 13 years until Mr. Roferos left for Dubai.
For him, the designs of Mr. Roferos are unexpected. As for him, let the dress
speak. He explained that when Mr. Roferos do a sketch, it will only leave at least
40% of its design when the apparel is already done. He also stated that Mr.
Roferos is a typical designer that when you cannot understand what couture is,
you will not really appreciate his work of art.
Working for Mr. Roferos will make you really expect the unexpected. You will be
amazed on how he does his sketching and most of all when the product is
already finish.
Chapter 5
Cruise Capsule Designs as inspired by Garimon Roferos Haute Couture
Clothing entitled Hand Woven Lilies.
REFERERENCES
Melican, N. (2012). Water lily handicraft trade pays off in Las Pias.
highbeam.com. Retrieved February 21, 2014,
from http://newsinfo.inquirer.net/232409/water-lily-handicraft-trade-pays-off-inlas-pinas
Manila Bulletin (2009). Artist of the Unexpected. newsinfo.inquirer.net.
Retrieved February 21, 2014, from http://www.highbeam.com/doc/1G1203025223.html
SM City Davao (N.D.). NOTABLE GLOBAL PINOY : GARY FILEMON
GARIMON ESCANDOR-ROFEROS. smglobalpinoy.com. Retrieved February
21, 2014, from http://smglobalpinoy.com/gpc/?
p=1996&type=2&sec=217&aid=11410
APPENDICES
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