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A full-size plywood
template doubles as the
base of a bending frame
by Mike Guertin
Figure 1. Lay out the inner and outer arcs of the stair on
a temporary floor made from a double layer of plywood.
Figure 2. After laying out the inner and outer radii and
the radius of the walkline, mark the tread locations on
the latter at 10-inch-minimum intervals.
Step off the treads at the walkline with equally spaced tickmarks 10 inches (code minimum) or more apart (Figure 2).
I generally limit tread depth at the walkline to 12 inches for
comfort. The final tread/riser mark pinpoints the bottom
landing. Pull a string from the radius stake to the outer stair
line at the last tread/riser to see if you like how the angle of
the bottom riser relates to your plans for a bottom landing.
If the last tread doesnt land where you expected it to, you
can make adjustments by increasing or decreasing the riser
height to change the number of treads; by changing the tread
measurement at the walkline to extend or
contract the bottom tread; or by changing the radius of the stairs to make the arcs
tighter or broader. These are all easy changes
to make before you start building.
Check that the minimum tread depth is
at least 6 inches by snapping two chalk lines
from the radius stake through two successive tread marks at the walkline arc. The distance between the points where the chalk
lines cross the inner arc is the dimension of
the narrow end of the treads (Figure 3).
Once youre happy with the geometry of
the stair, pull a chalk line from the radius
stake all the way across the outer stair-edge
arc and snap lines on the plywood at each
tread mark along the walkline to define the
stair treads (Figure 4).
Plywood top. For the top of the bending
frame, make a second plywood assembly that
mirrors the base complete with the stair
layout, though theres no need to mark the
Figure 4. Outline every tread on the stair by snapping lines between
walkline arc. Trim the edges 31 2 inches wide
the center and the walkline marks.
Figure 6. Toe-screw
straight, wane-free studs
to the base at the riser
locations. Each stud should
be behind its riser line.
Figure 7. Place the upper template, or layout mirror, on top of the studs and fasten the studs to it the
same way they were fastened to the lower layout.
of the inner and outer arcs of the stair, to allow for attaching
2x4 stud walls (Figure 5).
Walls. I build the bending-frame walls at least 5 feet high
even if the stairs are shorter than that so I can work below
the top of the assembly comfortably. Its important to use
straight studs without any wane, for accurate stringer layout.
Toe-screw the studs to the plywood base along the inner and
outer arcs, aligning them with the deck side of each tread/
riser line (Figure 6). Place and fasten the upper plywood
assembly atop the studs, with the studs aligned exactly as
they are on the base (Figure 7). Then plumb up the corners
of the frame and brace it (Figure 8).
To lay out the riser and tread cuts on the stringers, hold
a straightedge against the faces of matching studs on the
inside and outside frame walls and mark across the tops of
the stringers. The point where the line crosses the edge of
the stringer is the outside corner of the riser and tread cut
lines. Draw a plumb line down from the mark for the riser
cut and a level line for the tread cut, only as far as the intersection with the tread or riser lines for the adjacent steps
below and above (Figure 11).
Its best to wait a day or two for the adhesive to cure before
cutting the stringers. Set the bevel on a circular saw to match
the slight angle the risers will make where theyll meet the
stringers. The tread cuts will be flat no bevel. So you dont
overcut at the inside corner, use a reciprocating or hand saw
to finish out the cut (Figure 12).
Figure 18.
Intermediate
guardrail posts
can simply be
extensions of
support posts.