Sample Home Inspection Report

Kansas City's "First Choice" for Professional Home Inspections
705-B SE Melody Lane # 199 Lee's Summit MO 64063

Tel: (816) 554-1199 Fax: (816) 554-1198
www.FirstChoiceKC.com BillF@firstchoicekc.com
SUMMARY REPORT
Client: John Doe
Realtor: Bash Group, Prudential - KC Realty
Inspection Address: 1234 Main St., Overland Park, KS 66224

Inspection Date: 9/25/2008 Start: 8:30 am End: 12:00 pm
Inspected by: Bill Fate - ASHI Certified Inspector 205241

Doug Hord PE - ASHI Certified Inspector 114154
Chris McCullough - ASHI Certified Inspector 246774
This Summary Report is intended to provide a convenient and cursory preview of the conditions and
components that we have identified within our report as needing service. It is obviously not
comprehensive, and should not be used as a substitute for reading the entire report, nor is it a tacit
endorsement of the condition of components or features that may not appear in this summary. Also, the
service recommendations that we make in this summary and throughout the report should be completed
well before closing by licensed specialists, who may well identify additional defects or recommend some
upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property.
This inspection report is available on the Internet

for 90 days from the date of the inspection.
www.FirstChoiceKC.com
Enter the following Client Name: samplefirstchoice and the Password: firstchoice
This report is the exclusive property of First Choice Property Evaluations, Inc. and the client whose name
appears herewith, and its use by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
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Foundation
Poured Concrete Basement

Walls
Components and Conditions Needing Service
1.1 - Minor cracks are visible in the basement foundation wall(s) that need to be serviced. These type of cracks
are typically sealed with an epoxy sealant material to minimize moisture intrusion, and to monitor the
crack for future movement. See the west basement wall(s) as a representation of this situation.
1.2 - We would recommend additional lintel or header support for the front center basement door way opening
to prevent settlement. Minor settlement is noted at this time that could be minimized with addition of a
proper header.
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This report has been produced in accordance with our signed contract and is subject to the terms and conditions agreed upon therein.
All printed comments and the opinions expressed herein are those of First Choice Property Evaluations, Inc.
Inspection Summary - Page 1
Inspection Date/Time: 9/25/2008 8:30 am to 12:00 pm
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Moisture or Dampness
1.3 - There is direct evidence of moisture intrusion into the basement, which should be further evaluated by a
drainage specialist. West side of basement.
Exterior
Exterior Features
Decks
2.1 - There is rot or damage to the wood deck support post(s) that should be serviced, for proper support.
2.2 - The wood deck has loose railings at upper level stairway that need to be serviced to reduce this safety
risk.
2.3 - The ledger board attached to the dwelling and deck was installed without an adequate flashing, creating a
condition conducive to water penetration of the building and accelerated deterioration of the ledger board.
Proper flashings should be installed by a qualified contractor.
2.4 - The deck rim board does not have proper framing connections to the support posts. Prefab metal framing
plates should be installed by a qualified contractor for proper support.
Lights
2.5 - The lights outside the lower back door of the residence are not functional. However, we do not inspect or
evaluate decorative lights.
Windows
2.6 - The windows need caulking to ensure a weather tight seal. Opening are noted that need to be properly
sealed.
Screens
2.7 - Many of the window and/or door screens are missing. Screens are often removed for aesthetic reasons,
but you may wish to have them installed.
Doors
2.8 - The front doorbell does not function, and should be serviced.
2.9 - The upper rear door trim is deteriorated or damaged, and should be serviced by a qualified contractor to
prevent moisture infiltration.
Sliding or French Style Glass Doors
2.10 - The trim of the french doors is deteriorated or damaged, which could permit moisture intrusion, and you
should have this area serviced by a qualified individual.
Steps and Handrails
2.11 - As a safety precaution we recommend installing handrails on steps with three or more risers.
Siding
Stucco
2.12 - Moderate sized cracks of the type that can cause deterioration of the stucco and underlying building
elements were observed in the stucco. A licensed contractor should evaluate and repair as deemed
necessary.
2.13 - The intersections between the wood trim and stucco should be properly sealed to prevent moisture
infiltration. Gaps and voids are noted at this time that can allow moisture infiltration. A licensed
contractor should evaluate and repair as deemed necessary.
2.14 - The holes in the stucco should be patched and sealed. A licensed contractor should evaluate and repair
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as deemed necessary. Refer to the lower west location as a representation of this situation.
2.15 - The stucco siding was installed without the required expansion joints between dissimilar materials. An
expansion joint is needed to allow for the expansion of building materials and to keep the joint sealed. A
qualified and licensed stucco contractor should evaluate and repair as needed to ensure a weather-tight
seal.
2.16 - There were some cracks found in the system in various locations around the exterior of the home. This
system does not have the required expansion joints designed to help minimize cracking. We suggest that
the proper expansion joints should be installed vertically at all window corners and where needed to
reduce stucco surfaces to less than 144 sq ft.
Grading and Drainage

Drainage
2.17 - Grading and drainage is negative or neutral adjacent to the residence and should be corrected to move
water away from the structure. The yard needs to be graded with a slope of one inch per foot away from
the foundation to a minimum of six feet out.
Roof
Wood Roof
General Wood Shake or Shingle Comments
3.1 - The wood shingle roof has hail damage that does not appear to have affected the covering. You may wish
to have the present insurance company evaluate, for possible coverage or have a qualified roofing
contractor comment on this issue.
Estimated Age and General Evaluation
3.2 - The wood roof needs general maintenance service that will extend its life and guard against potential
leaks. The damaged and deteriorated shingles should be replaced by a licensed roofing contractor.
Heat-A/C
Heat and AC - System 1

Condensing Coil
7.1 - The condensing coil is restricted by dirt or debris which will compromise the performance of the coil, and
should be cleaned.
7.2 - The condensing coil is noisy during operation and should be serviced by a qualified HVAC contractor to
repair this unit as needed.

Condensing Coil
7.3 - The condensing coil is restricted by dirt or debris which will compromise the performance of the coil, and
should be cleaned.

Drip Pan
7.4 - The drip pan on the attic furnace does not have a float switch and should be serviced to include one.
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Fireplace
Basement Fireplace
Ornamental Gas Logs
8.1 - The ornamental gas log fire does not respond and should be serviced.
WaterHeater
Water Heater(s)
Age Capacity and Location
10.1 - The water heater in the west basement is not stable and should be serviced by a qualified contractor.
Laundry
First Floor Laundry

Gas Valve & Connector
14.1 - The gas line for the dryer is not capped, and should be capped to prevent gas leakage.
Bathrooms
Master Bathroom
Outlets
15.1 - The master bedroom closet ground-fault outlet is not re-connecting power and should be replaced.
Hydro-Spa
15.2 - The hydro-spa does not appear to have ground fault protection, which is an important safety feature that
should be verified as being present or added.
Upper East Bathroom

Toilet
15.3 - The flapper valve in the toilet tank sticks, which causes the toilet to free-flow, and should be serviced.
Upper West Bathroom

Stall Shower
15.4 - The hand sprayer in the shower has very low water flow and should be serviced.
Attic
Attic Observations
Ventilation
18.1 - Ventilation within the attic is inadequate and should be improved. The lack of ventilation in these areas
can result in excess heat and condensation in the attic areas that could damage elements of the roof
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coverings, roof framing, and the soffits and fascia boards. Therefore, we recommend that you have
additional vents installed for additional air flow.
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705-B SE Melody Lane # 199 Lee's Summit MO 64063
Tel: (816) 554-1199 Fax: (816) 554-1198
www.FirstChoiceKC.com BillF@firstchoicekc.com
CONFIDENTIAL INSPECTION REPORT

PREPARED FOR:
John Doe
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INSPECTION ADDRESS
1234 Main St., Overland Park, KS 66224
INSPECTION DATE
9/25/2008 8:30 am to 12:00 pm
REPRESENTED BY:
Bash Group
Prudential - KC Realty
This report is the exclusive property of First Choice Property Evaluations, Inc. and the client whose name
appears herewith, and its use by any unauthorized persons is prohibited.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Inspection Narratives - Page 1
GENERAL INFORMATION
Inspection Date: 9/25/2008 Time: 8:30 am to 12:00 pm
Weather: Clear and Damp - Temperature at time of inspection: 70-80 Degrees
Inspected by: Bill Fate - ASHI Certified Inspector 205241
Doug Hord PE - ASHI Certified Inspector 114154

Chris McCullough - ASHI Certified Inspector 246774
Client Information: John Doe
Buyer's Agent: Bash Group

Prudential - KC Realty
7400 State Line Rd. Ste. 200 B
Prairie Village, KS 66208
Phone: 913-981-2790
Fax: 913-981-2811
Mobile: 816-868-5888
Email: abash@prukc.com
Structure Type: Wood Frame

Foundation Type: Basement
Furnished: Yes
Number of Stories: Three
Structure Style: 3- Story
Structure Orientation: South
Estimated Year Built: 1992

Unofficial Sq.Ft.: 6000
People on Site At Time of Inspection: Buyer(s)

Radon Inspector & Mold Inspector
Buyer's Agent
General Property Conditions
PLEASE NOTE:
The service recommendations that we make in this report should be completed well before closing by
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qualified & licensed specialists, who may well identify additional defects or recommend some
upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property.
Report File: Sample Report
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SCOPE OF WORK
You have contracted for us to perform a general inspection in accordance with industry standards. It is distinct
from a specialist or technically exhaustive inspection, which can be costly, take several days to complete,
involve the use of specialized instruments, the dismantling of equipment, video-scanning, destructive testing,
and laboratory analysis. By contrast, the general or visual inspection is completed on-site, at a fraction of the
cost and within a few hours. Consequently, the general inspection and its report will not be as comprehensive
as that generated by specialists and it is not intended to be. Our purpose is to identify defects or adverse
conditions that could result in injury or lead to costs that would significantly affect your evaluation of the
property, and to alert you to the need for a specialist evaluation.
We evaluate conditions, systems, or components, and report on their condition, which does not mean that they
are ideal but that they are either functional or met a reasonable standard at a given point in time. We do take
into consideration when a house was built and allow for the predictable ware or deterioration that would occur
through time. Therefore, we tend to ignore insignificant and predictable defects, and do not annotate them, and
particularly those that would be apparent to the average person or to someone without any construction
experience. We are not authorized, or have the expertise, to comment on termite, dry rot, fungus, or mold, but
may alert you to its presence. Regardless, you should schedule any such specialized inspection, such as that
for the presence of mold, with the appropriate specialist before closing.
A house and its components are complicated, and because of this and the limitations of an visual on-site
report, we offer unlimited consultation and encourage you to ask questions. In fact, we encourage candid and
forthright communication between all parties, because we believe that it is the only way to avoid stressful
disputes and costly litigation. Remember, we only summarized the report on-site and it is essential that you
read all of it, and that any recommendations that we make for service or evaluation by specialists should be
completed and documented well before the closing, because additional defects could be revealed by a
specialist, or some upgrades recommended that could affect your evaluation of the property, and our service
does not include any form of warranty or guarantee.
The report may contain specific references to areas and items that were inaccessible and therefore could not
be inspected- potentially missing reportable conditions. Should you desire, inspection of these areas can be
performed at a later date upon arrangement with the concerned parties to ensure accessibility. Additional fees
may apply.
Thank you for choosing First Choice Property Evaluations, Inc. for your property inspection. We hope you find
our service valuable and informative. Due to the quality and complexity of components and systems contained
at the property, inspections can be helpful in identifying some, although not eliminating all risks associated with
ownership.
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Foundation
All structures are dependent on the soil beneath them for support, but soils are not uniform. Some that might
appear to be firm and solid can liquefy and become unstable during seismic activity. Also, there are soils that
can expand to twice their volume with the influx of water and move structures with relative ease, raising and
lowering them and fracturing slabs and other hard surfaces. In fact, expansive soils have accounted for more
structural damage than most natural disasters. Regardless, foundations are not uniform, and conform to the
structural standard of the year in which they were built. In accordance with our standards of practice, we identify
foundation types and look for any evidence of structural deficiencies. However, cracks or deteriorated surfaces
in foundations are quite common. In fact, it would be rare to find a raised foundation wall that was not cracked
or deteriorated in some way, or a slab foundation that did not include some cracks concealed beneath the
carpeting and padding. Fortunately, most of these cracks are related to the curing process or to common
settling, including some wide ones called cold-joint separations that typically contour the footings, but others
can be more structurally significant and reveal the presence of expansive soils that can predicate more or less
continual movement. We will certainly alert you to any suspicious cracks if they are clearly visible. However,
we are not specialists, and in the absence of any major defects we may not recommend that you consult with a
foundation contractor, a structural engineer, or a geologist, but this should not deter you from seeking the
opinion of any such expert.
Poured Concrete Basement

Observations & General Comments
Informational Conditions
Moisture in basements and crawl spaces is a perennial problem, involving a host of interrelated factors, and
can be unpredictable, intermittent, or constant. When moisture intrusion or dampness is not self evident, it can
be inferred by musty odors, peeling paint or plaster, efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, rust on metal
components, and wood rot. However, condensation and humidity can produce similar conditions if the
temperature in the foundation area is not maintained above the dew point. Regardless, we are not mold
specialists, and if you or any member of your family are sensitive to allergens you should schedule a specialist
inspection. Moisture in basement is usually the result of poor drainage on the exterior. The ideal property will
have soils that slope away from the foundation at a minimum of one inch per foot to 6-10 feet away. The
residence should have roof gutters and downspouts that discharge storm water away from the structure. We
have confirmed moisture intrusion in residences when it was raining that would not have been apparent
otherwise.
It is understood and agreed that this inspection will be of readily accessible areas. Portions of the basement
were concealed from view due to stored items and/or finished areas. These restrictions did not allow us to
visually inspect all systems and components.
The dwelling's supporting structural elements and many of its mechanical systems are often most visible in the
basement. Each visible and accessible component and system was examined. However, due to the finished
portions of the basement, most of the components and systems were not visible and accessible. Therefore,
much of the inspection was performed by identifying resultant symptoms of movement, damage, or
deterioration. Where there are no visible symptoms, conditions requiring further evaluation or repair may go
undetected and identification is not possible without destructive testing.
Floor Structure Description
Functional Conditions
The floor joists are 2 X 12's, 16" on center. Pre fab floor joists or silent floor system.
Wall Structure Description
The wall structure is 2 x 6 framing. Due to coverings, we are unable to inspect these components.
Walls
Minor cracks are visible in the basement foundation wall(s) that need to be serviced. These type of cracks are
typically sealed with an epoxy sealant material to minimize moisture intrusion, and to monitor the crack for
future movement. See the west basement wall(s) as a representation of this situation.
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Minor cracks are visible in the basement foundation wall(s) that need to be sealed - Continued
We would recommend additional lintel or header support for the front center basement door way opening to
prevent settlement. Minor settlement is noted at this time that could be minimized with addition of a proper
header.
Beams & Posts

The main floor support system consists predominantly of steel girders and steel posts.
Intermediate Floor Framing
The visible intermediate floor framing is in acceptable condition. There may be some deviations from plumb,
level, etc, but none that would have any serious structural significance.
Electrical
The electrical components that are visible within the basement appear to be in acceptable condition.
Moisture or Dampness
There is a musty odor in the basement that confirms moist or humid conditions. However, inasmuch as a sense
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of smell is not uniform and people can become accustomed to such odors or respond differently, you should
evaluate this for yourself. It would also be prudent to ask the sellers about it, so that you can best decide what
course of action should be taken.
The basement could be subject to moisture intrusion, and the presence of salt crystal formations and water
stains on the basement walls and floor confirms that moisture has reached this area. Therefore, you should ask
the sellers about their experience with this, keep any storage items isolated from the walls and floors, monitor
the basement during heavy rains, and keep a portable sump-pump on hand. You may wish to have a specialist
comment on this moisture.
There is direct evidence of moisture intrusion into the basement, which should be further evaluated by a
drainage specialist. West side of basement.
Exterior
Our evaluation of the exterior of a property conforms to the standards of the industry, and includes an
evaluation of driveways, walkways, fences, gates, handrails, guardrails, yard walls, patio covers, decks,
building walls, fascia and trim, balconies, doors, windows, lights, and outlets. However, we do not evaluate any
detached structures, such as storage sheds and stables, and we do not water test or evaluate subterranean
drainage systems or any mechanical or remotely controlled components, such as driveway gates. Also, we do
not evaluate any landscape components, such as trees, shrubs, fountains, ponds, statuary, pottery, fire pits,
patio fans, heat lamps, and ornamental gas lights, or decorative lighting. Similarly, we do not comment on
coatings or cosmetic deficiencies and the wear and tear associated with usage and the passage of time that
would be apparent to the average person. However, cracks in hard surfaces can imply the presence of
expansive soils that can result in continuous movement, but this could only be confirmed by a geological
evaluation of the soil.
Exterior Features
General Exterior Comments
The residence is equipped with a lawn irrigation system, which we are not qualified to evaluate and specifically
disclaim in our contract. Therefore. the system should be evaluated by a competent contractor and certified as
being functional.
House Cladding or Siding
A proper stucco application and underlying conditions cannot be determined by a visual inspection and is
beyond the scope of this inspection. Even the type of system is hard to identify due to builders and siding
applicator using "custom" techniques. In some cases stucco systems may allow moisture to penetrate and
become trapped, creating latent problems. An adequate stucco application cannot be verified by a visual
inspection. You may wish to consult a certified stucco specialist to further evaluate your stucco system and
possible moisture intrusion. Visit http://www.exterior-design-inst.com to find a qualified inspector, or look for a
certified thermal imaging specialist.
The house is clad with composite, stucco and wood siding.
Portions of the siding were embedded in concrete. This used to be accepted practice, but has been a common
problem area. This can result in accelerated aging and premature failure of the siding, and possible moisture
infiltration below the concrete. The current requirement is for the siding to be flashed on top of the concrete and
you may wish to have a contractor install flashing at the top of the concrete.
Plumbing
The water spigots on this house were designed to be freeze-proof when properly cared for. They were
functioning as intended and in acceptable condition. During freezing weather, the hoses must be removed
from freeze-proof spigots, otherwise water may be trapped inside, damaging the water line when it freezes.
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The discharge line from the sump pump drains below grade and should be monitored for proper drainage.
Underground lines tend to build up with debris and freeze, which can prevent the pump from functioning
properly. We would suggest to install the discharge line above grade and extend the line at least six feet away
from the foundation.
Trim Boards
Sections of the trim boards have weathered and need maintenance-type service. Including caulking, painting,
and sealing voids to help extend the useful life of these boards.
Soffit & Fascia
The fascia board and soffits appear to be in acceptable condition. The fascia was not fully visible due to
guttering preventing full view. These areas should have regular maintenance performed as deemed necessary.
Shallow overhangs or lack of overhangs can cause serious water damage to windows, siding, trim, the
structure and even leaks into the basement or home. Shallow overhangs allow building elements to be
subjected to water. Two story exposures compound the potential problem. Ask the owner for the history of any
problems any previous corrective work or water problems. If you were to extend to overhangs, this would
lessen the chances of these concerns.
Driveway
No unusual defects are noted on the driveway.
Decks
The wood deck needs maintenance-type service, such as securing loose planks, setting nails, sanding, or
sealing, all of which will prolong the life of the deck.
Earth-wood contact was observed at the deck area. This is a condition conducive to infestation by and damage
from wood destroying organisms and moisture. We recommend elimination of all earth/wood contact to reduce
the potential for wood destroying organism infestation damage. Any damaged material discovered in the
course of this work should be removed and replaced.
There is rot or damage to the wood deck support post(s) that should be serviced, for proper support.
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There is rot or damage to the wood deck support post(s) that should be serviced - Continued
The wood deck has loose railings at upper level stairway that need to be serviced to reduce this safety risk.
The ledger board attached to the dwelling and deck was installed without an adequate flashing, creating a
condition conducive to water penetration of the building and accelerated deterioration of the ledger board.
Proper flashings should be installed by a qualified contractor.
The deck rim board does not have proper framing connections to the support posts. Prefab metal framing
plates should be installed by a qualified contractor for proper support.
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The deck RIM BOARD does not have proper bearing on the support posts - Continued
Guttering
The gutters and downspouts appear to be in acceptable condition. However, without water in them it is difficult
to determine if they will leak or judge whether they are correctly pitched to direct water into the downspouts, but
they should function as they were intended.
The guttering drains into pipes that are below grade and should be monitored for proper drainage.
Underground lines tend to build up with debris and could freeze, which can prevent this component from
functioning properly. We would suggest to monitor the water flow during heavy rain conditions to determine
proper function.
Outlets
The outlets that were tested are functional and include ground-fault protection.
Lights
The lights outside the lower back door of the residence are not functional. However, we do not inspect or
evaluate decorative lights.
Exterior Electrical Meter Box
The exterior meter box for the main electrical service appears to be in acceptable condition.
Windows
The exterior window components have had recent repairs or replacements. It appears that some wood
deterioration has been repaired, but latent defects could exist. We would suggest to monitor these locations as
the wood rot may return. We would also suggest to ask the current owners about any warranties that may exist.
The windows need caulking to ensure a weather tight seal. Opening are noted that need to be properly sealed.
Screens
Many of the window and/or door screens are missing. Screens are often removed for aesthetic reasons, but you
may wish to have them installed.
Doors
The exterior doors need typical maintenance-type service. Painting, caulking and sealing minor areas of
deterioration will prolong the life of the exterior doors.
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The front doorbell does not function, and should be serviced.
The upper rear door trim is deteriorated or damaged, and should be serviced by a qualified contractor to
prevent moisture infiltration.
Sliding or French Style Glass Doors

The sliding or French style glass doors are tempered.
The slider screens are missing, and you may wish to have them replaced.
The trim of the french doors is deteriorated or damaged, which could permit moisture intrusion, and you should
have this area serviced by a qualified individual.
Trees and Vegetation

Vegetation is approaching the structure, and should be kept trimmed away (6-12") for the general welfare of the
walls, roof, and foundation. Trees should be kept from over-growing the residence.
Steps and Handrails
As a safety precaution we recommend installing handrails on steps with three or more risers.
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Walkways
No unusual defects are noted on the walkways.
Retaining Walls
The retaining wall(s) were in acceptable condition. They should be monitored regularly for change and surface
water must naturally flow away from the walls to reduce pressure.
Yard Walls
The yard walls may have some cosmetic damage but appear to be functional.
Siding
Composite Siding
Composite siding is man-made boards that are manufactured for use as exterior siding from various
combinations of wood fibers, fillers, binders and glue. These mixtures are heated and compressed into
composite wood products. Certain composite siding products have a history of premature, rapid deterioration.
Although it is attractive and often very durable, this siding is particularly sensitive to the effects of moisture and
is easily chipped. Installation, maintenance, and repair of composite siding should always be done in a manner
which exactly conforms to the manufacturer’s specifications. We would suggest to ask the sellers to pass on
any claim, warranty and maintenance information to you. You should review the warranty information carefully,
to ensure coverage. We recommend regular inspection, caulking and painting to extend the useful life of this
siding.
We recommend that the unfinished bottom edges of the manufactured siding be protected by careful cleaning,
sanding and painting, to prevent moisture penetration and subsequent swelling and deterioration of the siding.
Expect rapid deterioration of the existing siding if the walls are not sealed to provide protection against the
elements.
Often referred to as fake or composite wood, composite wood siding is a man-made product that uses various
combinations of wood chips and glue, overlaid with very thin laminate, to give a "real wood" look on the
surface. These composite wood products, tend to rot prematurely, swell, grow mildew and fungus, and buckle
or warp. Many of these products had warranties of 20 years or more, but signs of deterioration often appeared
within a few years after installation.
For the most part, composite siding does not handle water very well, causing wood fibers to expand and
contract causing the boards to crack, buckle, peel and delaminate. As the paint cracks, it allows more moisture
damage to occur, and fungi and bacteria to penetrate the wet wood. Other factors contribute to the failure of
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composite wood siding such as the quality of its installation and/or the design of the structure.
There are class action law suits against many manufacture of the siding and you may want to have a 3rd party
certified inspector evaluate for possible coverages.
There are over 100 different shapes, styles and textures of hardboard and OSB siding, manufactured by 11
different companies. Many of these manufacturers have settled house siding lawsuits since 1995.
ClaimSource One, Inc. (www.claimsourceone.com) is an Atlanta-based service company that specializes in the
identification of damaged building materials and the recovery of funds from class-action siding lawsuit
settlements.
The composite wall cladding is in acceptable condition with normal deterioration and deficiencies. This type of
cladding will require normal maintenance which would include periodic painting and caulking of exposed
surfaces to extend its useful life. One weakness of this material is it's tendency to swell and or deteriorate if
moisture is allowed to penetrate.
Stucco
Moderate sized cracks of the type that can cause deterioration of the stucco and underlying building elements
were observed in the stucco. A licensed contractor should evaluate and repair as deemed necessary.
The intersections between the wood trim and stucco should be properly sealed to prevent moisture infiltration.
Gaps and voids are noted at this time that can allow moisture infiltration. A licensed contractor should evaluate
and repair as deemed necessary.
The holes in the stucco should be patched and sealed. A licensed contractor should evaluate and repair as
deemed necessary. Refer to the lower west location as a representation of this situation.
The stucco siding was installed without the required expansion joints between dissimilar materials. An
expansion joint is needed to allow for the expansion of building materials and to keep the joint sealed. A
qualified and licensed stucco contractor should evaluate and repair as needed to ensure a weather-tight seal.
There were some cracks found in the system in various locations around the exterior of the home. This system
does not have the required expansion joints designed to help minimize cracking. We suggest that the proper
expansion joints should be installed vertically at all window corners and where needed to reduce stucco
surfaces to less than 144 sq ft.
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OCS - No Expansion Joints and has Cracking - Continued
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Grading and Drainage

General Grading Comments
All structures are dependent on the soil beneath them for support, but soils are not uniform. Some that might
appear to be firm and solid can change and become unstable with high or low moisture conditions. Also, there
are soils that can expand to twice their volume with the influx of water and move structures with relative ease,
raising and lowering them and fracturing foundations and other hard surfaces. In fact, expansive soils have
accounted for more structural damage than most natural disasters. Water can be equally destructive, and can
foster conditions that are deleterious to health. For this reason, the ideal property will have soils that slope away
from the residence at a minimum of one inch per foot out from the foundation. The residence should have roof
gutters and downspouts that discharge storm water away from the structure. We have confirmed moisture
intrusion in residences when it was raining that would not have been apparent otherwise.
Drainage
The landscaping has created potential reservoirs next to the foundation. These areas do not have any
apparent source of drainage. This design promotes water accumulation near the foundation, which could result
in deterioration of the foundation and water infiltration for the foundation. We advise minimizing irrigation in
these areas as well as redirecting downspouts to ensure storm water does not run into these areas. If water
accumulation is noted, we would advise a "french drain" system be installed.
• See Attached Illustration 1
Concrete flatwork in walkways or patios has created potential reservoirs next to the foundation. These areas do
not have any apparent source of drainage. This design promotes water accumulation near the foundation,
which could result in deterioration of the foundation and water infiltration for the foundation. We advise
minimizing irrigation in these areas as well as redirecting downspouts to ensure storm water does not run into
these areas. If water accumulation is noted, we would advise a "french drain" system be installed.
Grading and drainage is negative or neutral adjacent to the residence and should be corrected to move water
away from the structure. The yard needs to be graded with a slope of one inch per foot away from the
foundation to a minimum of six feet out.
Roof
There are many different roof types, which we evaluate by walking on their surfaces. If we are unable or
unwilling to do this for any reason, we will indicate the method that was used to evaluate them. Every roof will
wear differently relative to its age, the number of its layers, the quality of its material, the method of its
application, its exposure to direct sunlight or other prevalent weather conditions, and the regularity of its
maintenance. Regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as good as the waterproof membrane beneath it,
which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing the roof material, and this is equally true of
almost all roofs. In fact, the material on the majority of pitched roofs is not designed to be waterproof only
water-resistant. However, what remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is
virtually impossible for anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are
beyond the scope of our service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, could be old and
will not necessarily confirm an active leak without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be
deliberately concealed. Consequently, only the installers can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and
they do. We evaluate every roof conscientiously, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not
predict its remaining life expectancy, or guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of
a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we
recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your
home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.
There are many different roof types, and every roof will wear differently relative to its age, the number of its
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layers, the quality of its material, the method of its application, its exposure to direct sunlight or to other
prevalent weather conditions, and its maintenance. However, regardless of its design-life, every roof is only as
good as the waterproof membrane beneath it, which is concealed and cannot be examined without removing
the roof material, and this is equally true of almost all roofs. In fact, the material on most pitched roofs is not
designed to be waterproof only water-resistant.
There are two basic roof types, pitched and flat. Pitched roofs are the most common, and the most dependable.
They are variously pitched, and typically finished with composition shingles that have a design life of twenty to
twenty-five years, or concrete, composite, Spanish, or metal tiles that have a design-life of forty to fifty years,
and gravel roofs that have a lesser pitch and a shorter design-life of ten to fifteen years. These roofs may be
layered, or have one roof installed over another, which is a common practice but one that is never
recommended because it reduces the design-life of the new roof by several years, can impede emergency
service by fire department personal, and requires a periodical service of the flashings. These are serviced with
mastic (caulking), which eventually shrinks and cracks and provides a common point of leakage. The least
dependable of all roofs are the flat ones, which are also called built-up ones. Some flat roofs are adequately
sloped toward drains but many are not, and water simply ponds and will only be dispersed by evaporation.
However, the most common cause of leakage results when roofs are not serviced or kept clean, and foliage
and other debris blocks the drainage channels.
Roof Maintenance:
Clean all debris from the surface of the roof. This includes debris that has gathered behind HVAC units, pipes
and pitch pans, and any other roof penetrations. Debris has a tendency to hold water, and water will expedite
roof deterioration, especially if your roof is asphalt based such as a built-up roof or asphalt shingles. If your roof
is starting to collect moss or algae, install some zinc or lead control strips. Check all flashings and make sure
that they are not deteriorated and there are no holes in them. Keep algae off of the roof surface. Install zinc
control strips along the hips and ridges if necessary. Dab some roof cement under any loose shingle tabs. One
dab on either side should do. Replace any damaged shingles. Keep all guttering free of debris. Make sure that
the downspouts are draining properly by water testing them. Trim back any overhanging tree branches. Check
the open valley metal for rust. Wire brush the rust then prime and paint the metal. If rust is prevalent, it can be
removed using Rust-Away® Oxidation and Corrosion Remover. Paint the valley with Rustoleum® or similar
product afterward. Check all caulking and sealants. Scrape and remove any caulking that is weather cracked
and damaged. Clean the area thoroughly. Use a wire brush if necessary. Reapply a polyurethane caulking.
Check the mortar on chimneys and parapet walls, both in between the brick and on top. If it's damaged or
deteriorated, have it tuck-pointed. Most masons can perform this work.
What remains true of all roofs is that, whereas their condition can be evaluated, it is virtually impossible for
anyone to detect a leak except as it is occurring or by specific water tests, which are beyond the scope of our
service. Even water stains on ceilings, or on the framing within attics, will not necessarily confirm an active leak
without some corroborative evidence, and such evidence can be deliberately concealed. Consequently, only
the installer can credibly guarantee that a roof will not leak, and they do. We cannot, and do not give any such
guarantees. We will examine every roof, evaluate it, and even attempt to approximate its age, but we will not
predict is remaining life expectancy, nor guarantee that it will not leak. Naturally, the sellers or the occupants of
a residence will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof and of its history. Therefore, we
recommend that you ask the sellers about it, and that you either include comprehensive roof coverage in your
home insurance policy, or that you obtain a roof certification from an established local roofing company.
Method of Evaluation
Roof Access
We walked on part of the roof to evaluate the components. Walked on lower roof areas only.
The height or pitch of this roof prevents it from being safely accessed and walked on. However, it was
inspected from within the attic and from a variety of vantage points, with binoculars and a ladder. Thus, the
comments in this report were based upon a limited visual inspection and we would suggest to wish to have a
roofing contractor evaluate.
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Composition Shingle
General Composition Shingle Comments
There are a wide variety of composition shingle roofs, which are comprised of asphalt or fiberglass materials
impregnated with mineral granules that are designed to deflect the deteriorating ultra-violet rays of the sun. The
commonest of these roofs are warranted by manufacturers to last from twenty to twenty-five years, and are
typically guaranteed against leaks by the installer for three to five years. The actual life of the roof will vary,
depending on a number of interrelated factors besides the quality of the material and the method of installation.
Poor maintenance is the most common cause of roof failure, but a southern exposure can cause a roof to
deteriorate prematurely, as will the practice of layering over another roof. However, the first indication of
significant wear occurs when the granules begin to separate and leave pockmarks or dark spots. This is
referred to as primary decomposition, which means that the roof is in decline, and therefore susceptible to
leakage. This typically begins with the hip and ridge shingles and to the field shingles on the south facing side.
This does not mean that the roof is ready to be replaced, but that it should be serviced or monitored. Regular
maintenance will certainly extend the life of any roof, and will usually avert most leaks that only become
evident after they have caused other damage. This is important, because in accordance with industry standards
our inspection service does not include a guarantee against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to
have a roofing company perform a water test and issue a roof certification. However, the sellers or the
occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of the roof, and you ask them about its history and
then schedule a regular maintenance service.
Wood Roof
General Wood Shake or Shingle Comments
Wood shingles and shakes are among the oldest of roofing materials, but they are coming under increasing
criticism and are no longer permitted in some jurisdictions. They are comprised of uniformly thin shingles or
thick shakes, installed on either spaced or solid sheathing. Spaced sheathing consists of strips of wood that run
perpendicularly to the rafters, on which the shingles or shakes are fastened. These are easily broken, and are
now considered to be seismically vulnerable and structurally suspect. In addition, the open spaces between
them permit a fire to draft more rapidly, and whatever chemical fire-retardant the shakes or shingles may have
been impregnated with it diminishes over time. Wood roofs with solid sheathing are structurally sounder, but
are still not permitted in some jurisdictions. Regardless, whereas such roofs have a life expectancy of fifteen to
twenty years, which is similar to many other roofs, they tend to weather more rapidly and must be carefully
monitored and maintained. This is particularly important, because our service does not include a guarantee
against leaks. For such a guarantee, you would need to have a roofing company perform a water test and issue
a roof certification. However, the sellers or the occupants will generally have the most intimate knowledge of
the roof, and you ask them about its history, and then schedule regular maintenance service.
Some insurance companies are reluctant to insure houses with wood roofs. You may wish to contact your
insurance company to determine acceptance and/or requirements for insurance coverage.
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General Wood Shake or Shingle Comments - Continued

The wood shingle roof has hail damage that does not appear to have affected the covering. You may wish to
have the present insurance company evaluate, for possible coverage or have a qualified roofing contractor
comment on this issue.
Estimated Age and General Evaluation
The wood roof appears to be approximately 5-10 years old, but this is just an estimate, and you should request
the installation permit from the sellers, which will reveal its exact age and any warranty or guarantee that might
be applicable. However, this is not a guarantee against leaks. Wood roofs will require more maintenance that
typical roofs, and we would suggest a yearly maintenance program with a qualified roofing contractor.
The roof includes a satellite dish installed through the roof covering, which is not an approved installation. No
unusual concerns were noted at this time, but you may wish to have a roofing contractor install the dish at a
more appropriate location.
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The wood roof needs to be cleaned to drain effectively - Continued

The wood roof needs general maintenance service that will extend its life and guard against potential leaks.
The damaged and deteriorated shingles should be replaced by a licensed roofing contractor.
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The wood roof needs to be serviced or tuned-up (missing and deteriorated shingles) - Continued
With Flat-Roofed Sections

The wood roof includes a flat roofed area, and flat roofs can be problematic if they are not kept clean. Water
ponds on most of them, and particularly along the leading edges where it is only dispersed by evaporation.
Therefore, they must be kept clean and inspected regularly. This is important because our service does not
include any guarantee against leaks.
Flashings & Valleys

The roof flashings appear to be in acceptable condition.
Plumbing
Plumbing systems have common components, but they are not uniform. In addition to fixtures, these
components include gas pipes, potable water pipes, drain and vent pipes, shut-off valves, which we do not test
if they are not in daily use, pressure regulators, pressure relief valves, and water-heating devices. The best and
most dependable water pipes are copper, because they are not subject to the build-up of minerals that bond
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within galvanized pipes, and gradually restrict their inner diameter and reduce water volume. Water softeners
can remove most of these minerals, but not once they are bonded within the pipes, for which there would be no
remedy other than a re-pipe. The water pressure within pipes is commonly confused with water volume, but
whereas high water volume is good high water pressure is not. In fact, whenever the street pressure exceeds
eighty pounds per square inch a regulator is recommended, which typically comes factory preset between
forty-five and sixty-five pounds per square inch. However, regardless of the pressure, leaks will occur in any
system, and particularly in one with older galvanized pipes, or one in which the regulator fails and high pressure
begins to stress the washers and diaphragms within the various components.
Waste and drainpipes pipes are equally varied, and range from modern acrylonitrile butadiene styrene [ABS]
ones to older ones made of cast-iron, galvanized steel, clay, and even a cardboard-like material that is coated
with tar. The condition of these pipes is usually directly related to their age. Older ones are subject to damage
through decay and root movement, whereas the more modern ABS ones are virtually impervious to damage,
although some rare batches have been alleged to be defective. However, inasmuch as significant portions of
drainpipes are concealed, we can only infer their condition by observing the draw at drains. Nonetheless,
blockages will occur in the life of any system, but blockages in drainpipes, and particularly in main drainpipes,
which we do not inspect and recommend having video-scanned. This could also confirm that the house is
connected to the public sewer system, which is important because all private systems must be evaluated by
specialists.
Slab foundation homes will have piping below the concrete slab rendering the system inaccessible. We will not
be able to inspect the piping located in or below the slab areas. Replacement and repair can become expensive
due to design and accessibility.
Water Supply
Water Main Location & Concerns
The main water shut-off valve is located on the front basement. To facilitate its use during an emergency, the
valve should be readily accessible.
Water Pressure
A water pressure regulator is in place on the plumbing system. We would recommend to install an expansion
tank, if your pressure regulator does not have a thermal bypass built in to the regulator, to relieve excessive
pressure that can build up when the water heater is heating the cool water. The water expands and can cause
excessive pressure on the interior supply system.
Piping Material
The potable water pipes are primarily copper and the visible portions appear to be in acceptable condition.
Waste
Drain Waste and Vent Pipe Materials
The DWV system consists primarily of plastic (PVC) piping
Drain Waste and Vent Pipes
Based on industry recommended water tests, the drainpipes are functional at this time. However, only a
video-scan of the drainpipes would confirm their actual condition.
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Gas
Gas Main Location
The gas main and main shut off valve are located at the meter in the side yard . You should be aware that gas
leaks are not uncommon, particularly underground ones, and that they can be difficult to detect without the use
of sophisticated instruments, which is why natural gas is odorized in the manufacturing process. Therefore, we
recommend that you request a recent gas bill from the sellers, so that you can establish a norm and thereby be
alerted to any potential leak.
Gas Pipes
The visible portions of the gas pipes appear to be in acceptable condition.
Electrical
There are a wide variety of electrical systems with an even greater variety of components, and any one
particular system may not conform to current standards or provide the same degree of service and safety.
What is most significant about electrical systems however is that the national electrical code [NEC] is not
retroactive, and therefore many residential systems do not comply with the latest safety standards. Regardless,
we are not electricians and in compliance with our standards of practice we only test a representative number
of switches and outlets and do not perform load-calculations to determine if the supply meets the demand.
However, in the interests of safety, we regard every electrical deficiency and recommended upgrade as a latent
hazard that should be serviced as soon as possible, and that the entire system be evaluated and certified as
safe by an electrician. Therefore, it is essential that any recommendations that we may make for service or
upgrades should be completed before the close of escrow, because an electrician could reveal additional
deficiencies or recommend some upgrades for which we would disclaim any further responsibility. However, we
typically recommend upgrading outlets to have ground fault protection, which is a relatively inexpensive but
essential safety feature. These outlets are often referred to as GFCI's, or ground fault circuit interrupters and,
generally speaking, have been required in specific locations for more than thirty years, beginning with
swimming pools and exterior outlets around 1976, and the list has been added to "wet" areas ever since.
Similarly, AFCI's or arc fault circuit interrupters, represent the very latest in circuit breaker technology, and
have been required in all bedroom circuits since 2002. However, inasmuch as arc faults cause thousands of
electrical fires and hundreds of deaths each year, we categorically recommend installing them at every circuit
as a prudent safety feature. Regardless, we are not specialists and in compliance with industry standards we
only test a representative number of switches and outlets, and do not perform load-calculations to determine if
the supply meets the demand of the household. Therefore, it is essential that any service recommendations or
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upgrades that we make should be completed well before the close of escrow, because a specialist could reveal
additional deficiencies or recommend some upgrades. Inspection and review of any low voltage electrical
systems are not within the scope of this inspection.
Main Electrical Panel

Size and Location
The residence is served by a 200 amp panel, located in the basement
The residence is served by a 100 amp panel, located in the basement

Service Entrance
The main conductor lines are underground, or part of a lateral service entrance. This is characteristic of modern
electrical services but, inasmuch as the service lines are underground and cannot be seen, they are not
evaluated as part of our service.
The main conductor lines are braided aluminum.
Wiring Description
The visible wiring is predominantly non-metallic or plastic sheathed cable, commonly refered to as Romex.
The branch circuit wiring is 120 Volt copper.
The appliance circuit wiring includes 240 Volt copper.
Main Panel
The panel has a 200 amp main disconnect.
The panel has a 100 amp main disconnect.
Wiring
The wiring in the main electrical panel has no visible deficiencies.
Circuit Breakers
There are no visible deficiencies with the circuit breakers in the main electrical panel.
Grounding
The main electrical panel is double-grounded to a driven rod and to a water pipe.
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Interior Cover Panel

The interior cover for the main electrical panel appears to be in acceptable condition.
Garage
It is common for moisture to penetrate garages, because their slabs are on-grade. Evidence of this is typically
apparent in the form of efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, that result when moisture penetrates the
sidewalls or the slab. This is also quite common if a garage is below grade, and some sidewalls are even cored
to relieve the pressure that can build up behind them, and which actually promotes drainage through the
garage. Ideally, the columns and beams around the garage door will be made of structural steel, but in many
residences these components are made of wood but could include some structural accessories, such as
post-straps and hold-downs, and plywood shear paneling. Regardless, we are not engineers, and you may wish
to discuss this further with a structural engineer. Garage door openings are not standard, and you may wish to
measure the opening to ensure that there is sufficient clearance to accommodate your vehicles.
Garage Observations
General Garage Construction
This home has a three car tuck under garage.
Walls and Ceiling

The walls in the garage are sheathed and in acceptable condition. The garage framing was not visible. The
area around the garage door opening is generally the most vulnerable to movement, but no adverse conditions
were noted.
There are stains on the garage ceiling that appear to be a past problem. Moisture detection equipment did not
indicate an active leak, but you should ask the sellers to explain or have this area explored further.
We recommend installation of a fire extinguisher in the garage to improve the safety of the occupants of the
dwelling.
Electrical
The outlets in the garage that were tested are functional, and include ground-fault protection.
Automatic Opener
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The garage door opener(s) has no apparent deficiencies.

Firewall
The firewall in the garage has no apparent deficiencies.
Slab
The garage slab is cracked, but not load-bearing. Such cracks are common and result as a consequence of the
curing process, seismic activity, ordinary settling, or the presence of expansive soils, but are not structurally
threatening. We can elaborate, but you may wish to have a structural engineer confirm this.
Garage Foundation
The garage foundation appears to be in acceptable condition. There are no visible signs or indications of
structural deficiencies or concerns found at this time.
Garage Door and Hardware
The garage door(s) have no apparent deficiencies.
The garage door(s) is in need of minor maintenance and adjustment to keep it functioning at optimal efficiency.
A competent garage door technician should examine the garage door(s) and lubricate the hardware, tighten all
fasteners and adjust any counterbalance mechanism as appropriate to restore the door to peak operating
condition.
Entry Door Into the House
The house entry door is solid core, or fire-rated.
Heat-A/C
The components of most heating and air-conditioning systems have a design-life ranging from ten to
twenty-five years, but can fail prematurely with poor maintenance or improper installation, which is why we
apprise you of their age whenever possible. We test and evaluate them in accordance with the standards of
practice, which means that we do not dismantle and inspect the concealed portions of evaporator and
condensing coils, the heat exchanger, which is also known as the firebox, electronic air-cleaners, humidifiers,
duct work and design, and in-line duct-motors or dampers. We perform a conscientious evaluation of both
systems, but we are not specialists. However, even the most modern heating systems can produce carbon
monoxide, which in a sealed or poorly ventilated room can result in sickness, debilitating injury, and even
death. Therefore, in accordance with the terms of our contract, it is essential that any recommendations that we
make for service or a second opinion be scheduled before closing, because a specialist could reveal additional
defects or recommend further upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property, and our service does
not include any form of warranty or guarantee.
There are a wide variety of heating and air-conditioning systems, which range from newer high-efficiency ones
to older low efficiency ones. Also, there are an equally wide variety of factors besides the climate that can
affect their performance, ranging from the size of the house, the number of its stories, its orientation to the sun,
the type of its roofing material, its ventilation system, and the thermal value of its insulation and window
glazing. This is why our contract specifically disclaims the responsibility of evaluating the overall efficiency of
any system, because only a specialist can credibly do so. You should also be aware that we do not evaluate or
endorse any heating device that utilizes fossil fuels and is not vented. The presence and use of these within a
residence commonly indicates the inadequacy of the primary heating system or its distribution. However, these
and every other fuel burning device that in not vented are potentially hazardous. Such appliances include open
flames or heated elements, which are capable of igniting any of the myriad flammable materials found in the
average home. Also, even the most modern of these units can produce carbon monoxide, which in a sealed or
poorly ventilated room can result in sickness, debilitating injuries, and even death.
We attempt to identify and test every component, but we do not attempt to determine exact tonnage or
dismantle any portion of a system, and we do not evaluate the following concealed components: the heat
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exchanger, or firebox, electronic air-cleaners, drain pans, humidifiers, and in-line duct motors or dampers.
Similarly, we do not check every register, at which the airflow may well be uneven and which will decrease
proportionate to its distance from the blower fan on the furnace. However, the airflow and the efficiency of any
system can be compromised by poor maintenance, such as by the filters not being changed regularly, which
will contaminate components within the systems. Regardless, the sellers or the occupants of a property are
often the best judges of how well a system works, and it is always a good idea to ask them about its
maintenance history and if they have been satisfied with its performance, or you may wish to have a
comprehensive evaluation by a specialist. Most systems have a design life of twenty years, but if any system is
more than ten years old, or if poor maintenance is suspected, it would be wise to schedule a comprehensive
service that includes cleaning motors, fans, ducts, and coils. Then, change the filters every one to three
months, and schedule biannual maintenance service. If you have a home warranty plan on you home, we
would suggest you have a qualified HVAC contractor perform an evaluation of these systems and components
to ensure coverage. Some warranty companies will not accept our evaluation as we are not licensed HVAC
contractors.
We perform a conscientious evaluation of heating and air-conditioning components, but we are not specialists.
Therefore, it is imperative that any recommendation that we may make for service or a second opinion be
completed well before closing, because a specialist could reveal additional defects or recommend further
upgrades that could affect your evaluation of the property, and our service does not include any form of
warranty or guarantee. We will refer to heating and cooling specialists as HVAC contractors in this report.

Forced Air Furnace
Heat is provided by an approximate 1999, 125,000 BTU forced-air Lennox furnace.
Start an annual maintenance routine for all your combustion appliances. Get professional assistance to do this.
The service person should check for heat exchanger leakage, evidence of start-up spillage, and condensation
in chimneys. If you have a home warranty plan on you home, we would suggest you have the warranty
company perform an evaluation of these systems and components to ensure coverage.
Maintenance should include a tune-up. A properly tuned combustion appliance is less likely to produce carbon
monoxide, the most serious threat. Remember that a thorough maintenance check may cost a little more than a
simple cleaning, but it is money well spent.
Ensure that fuel-burning appliances have access to an ample supply of air.
Replace fuel-burning appliances with sealed combustion units.
The furnace appears to function adequately. The temperature rise was within manufactures requirements. This
is a generalist inspection and not a through furnace inspection. If you have a home warranty on this system, we
would suggest a full evaluation by a qualified HVAC contractor to ensure coverage.
The furnace air was tested for carbon monoxide and the air had zero PPM emitted into the conditioned air.
Picture of Furnace(s)
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Picture of Furnace - Continued
Vent Pipe
The furnace vent pipe is a PVC type that appears to be functional with no visible damage or evidence of
leakage.
Gas Valve and Connector
The gas valve and connector appear to be in acceptable condition.
Return-Air Compartment
Mechanical ventilation is a key component in creating and maintaining a healthier home. Start by reading the
manufacturers' instructions on maintaining your furnace to determine where the filter is located and also how
often you should have your furnace inspected by a licensed heating contractor. We recommend twice a year
servicing to improve efficiency and ensure safe operation. Identify from the instructions the type of filter
appropriate for the furnace you have. Where you purchase your filters, look for the highest-efficiency filter that
works with your furnace (the higher the MERV rating, which is usually listed on the packaging, the better).
Replace your filter at the stated intervals, usually about every one to three months. Replace more often if you
are introducing higher levels of particulates into your home, such as when renovations are being done, when
using candles, or if someone has been smoking in your house. Also, consider more frequent replacements if
you have a family member with asthma, allergies or other lung diseases.
The return-air compartment is dirty, and dirt has passed beyond to contaminate the system, should be cleaned
during the next service.
Condensing Coil
Air conditioning is provided by an approximate 4.0 ton Lennox unit. 50 amp max. 2000 Model.
We would recommend yearly servicing from a qualified heating and cooling contractor to ensure long life and
more efficient operation from the system. Keep vegetation, grass clippings and leaves away from the
condenser grille. The coils will become dirty with use. If the outside coils are dirty, coils within the unit probably
are as well. If you are able to, take the unit apart and spray and wipe the coils with a clean, damp rag. Use dish
soap, which won't corrode metal. Finish by wiping the coils with a soap-free wet rag. Always shut off the breaker
to the unit when performing maintenance. Clean evaporator fins of bugs and debris, and straighten the fins with
a fin comb.
The condensing coil responded to the thermostat and appears to be functional.
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The condensing coil responded to the thermostat and appears to be functional - Continued

The condensing coil is restricted by dirt or debris which will compromise the performance of the coil, and should
be cleaned.
The condensing coil is noisy during operation and should be serviced by a qualified HVAC contractor to repair
this unit as needed.
AC Differential Temperature Readings
The air-conditioning responded and achieved an acceptable differential temperature split between the air
entering the system and that coming out, of sixteen degrees or more. The actual temperature split was 18
degrees.
Never run an air-conditioning unit when the outside temperature is below 60°F. Coils may frost up, restricting
airflow.
Always turn on power 24 hours before using a central air conditioner. This gives the unit time to separate the oil
from the refrigerant before cool air is required.
Condensate Discharge Pipe
The primary condensate pipe discharges to the floor drain. The pipe(s) should be monitored and cleaned
annually. If they drain line or pan becomes blocked, it can cause water damage.
We were unable to determine if the drain line is flowing properly at this time. We would suggest to monitor this
drain line or have the system serviced.
Combustion-Air Vents
The combustion-air vents for the gas furnace are functional.
Humidifier
In accordance with industry standards, we do not evaluate humidifiers as part of our service. However, because
warm moisture can promote the growth of bacteria, yeasts, and molds, their reservoirs must be kept clean
when in use, and desalinated and serviced when they are not in use.
Humidity is the amount of moisture or water vapor in the air. People tend to feel more comfortable when the
relative humidity is within a certain range (between 35-55 percent). If the humidity is too low, people may be left
with physical discomforts such as a dry nose, throat, lips, and skin. In addition, low humidity may also wreak
havoc on your home causing static electricity, cracks in furniture, flooring, cabinetry, paint, and peeling
wallpaper. High levels of humidity cause a room to feel stuffy and create an environment in which biological
contaminants can thrive. Moisture is often added or removed from indoor air to make a room feel more
comfortable.
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Home humidifiers and dehumidifiers can be breeding grounds for mold and bacteria. Make sure they are
maintained and cleaned often. A humidifier should only be used when conditions require it. Because the
possible health effects resulting from the dispersal of minerals and microorganisms are not fully understood, it
may be wise to reduce the potential for personal exposure to these materials. Do not humidify to indoor
relative humidity levels exceeding fifty percent. Higher humidity levels may encourage the growth of biological
organisms in the home. Digital hygrometers, available for purchase at most hardware stores, may be used to
measure humidity levels. If water condenses on windows or walls, lower the humidifier's setting, or reduce its
use. Clean the humidifier as directed, at the end of the humidifying season or when you know it will not be used
frequently. Before storage, make sure all parts are dry and dispose of all used demineralization cartridges,
cassettes, or filters.
Metal Ducts
The supply ducts are the typical metal type that appear to be in acceptable condition. Forced air ductwork
requires occasional maintenance and cleaning to make sure it does not become the source of indoor air
pollution. If you hire a service to clean your ductwork, ask them if they can provide verification that the
residents of the home are protected from exposure to dislodged pollutants and chemicals used during the
cleaning process.
Circulating Fan
The blades on the circulating fan are dirty, which is indicative of ineffective filter or poor maintenance. The fan
should be cleaned, and the filters changed regularly, as part of a scheduled maintenance service.

Forced Air Furnace
Heat is provided by an approximate 1999, 50,000 BTU forced-air Lennox furnace.
The furnace appears to function adequately. The temperature rise was within manufactures requirements. This
The furnace air was tested for carbon monoxide and the air had zero PPM emitted into the conditioned air.
Vent Pipe
Visual areas of the furnace vent pipe appear to be functional with no apparent deficiencies.
The furnace vent pipe is a PVC type that has been known to crack and split, and particularly at the connections,
which could allow the bi-products of combustion to contaminate the residence. There is no evidence of any
damage at this time, but it should be monitored, and you may wish to have a specialist evaluate it.
Gas Valve and Connector
The gas valve and connector appear to be in acceptable condition.
Visual areas of the return air compartment appear to be functional with no apparent deficiencies.
Mechanical ventilation is a key component in creating and maintaining a healthier home. High-efficiency air
filters, such as Filtrete from 3M, can help further improve indoor air quality. Start by reading the manufacturers'
instructions on maintaining your furnace to determine where the filter is located and also how often you should
have your furnace inspected by a licensed heating contractor.
Identify from the instructions the type of filter appropriate for the furnace you have.
Where you purchase your filters, look for the highest-efficiency filter that works with your furnace (the higher
the MERV rating, which is usually listed on the packaging, the better).
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Condensing Coil
Air conditioning is provided by an approximate 2.0 ton Lennox unit. 20 amp max. 2000 Model.
The condensing coil is restricted by dirt or debris which will compromise the performance of the coil, and should
be cleaned.
degrees.
The primary condensate pipe discharges to the basement floor drain. The pipe(s) should be monitored and
cleaned annually. If they drain line or pan becomes blocked, it can cause water damage.
We did confirm proper water flow out of the condensation pipe during this inspection. However, these pipes will
become plugged over time and should be monitored.
Circulating Fan
The circulating fan is clean and functional.
Humidifier
In accordance with industry standards, we do not evaluate humidifiers as part of our service. However, because
warm moisture can promote the growth of bacteria, yeasts, and molds, their reservoirs must be kept clean
when in use, and desalinated and serviced when they are not in use.
Metal Ducts
cleaning process.

Forced Air Furnace
Heat is provided by a 2000, forced-air Lennox electric furnace located in the attic.
The furnace appears to function adequately. The temperature rise was 67 degrees during this inspection. This
Picture of Furnace(s)
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Picture of Furnace(s) - Continued
The return air compartment was not visible for inspection.
Mechanical ventilation is a key component in creating and maintaining a healthier home. High-efficiency air
filters, such as Filtrete from 3M, can help further improve indoor air quality. Start by reading the manufacturers'
instructions on maintaining your furnace to determine where the filter is located and also how often you should
have your furnace inspected by a licensed heating contractor.
Identify from the instructions the type of filter appropriate for the furnace you have.
Where you purchase your filters, look for the highest-efficiency filter that works with your furnace (the higher
the MERV rating, which is usually listed on the packaging, the better).
Condensing Coil
Air conditioning is provided by an approximate 1.5 ton Lennox unit. 15 amp max. 2000 Model. Far north unit.
Heat Pump
The heat pump was operated on both the heat and cool cycles. The system responded and operated
adequately on both settings at the thermostat. The heat rise was measured as degrees.
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The heat pump responded to a request for heat and cool - Continued

degrees.
Never run an air-conditioning unit when the outside temperature is below 60°F. Coils may frost up, restricting
airflow.
Always turn on power 24 hours before using a central air conditioner. This gives the unit time to separate the oil
from the refrigerant before cool air is required.
The primary condensate pipe discharges to the drip pan drain. The pipe(s) should be monitored and cleaned
annually. If they drain line or pan becomes blocked, it can cause water damage.
We were unable to determine if the drain line is flowing properly at this time. We would suggest to monitor this
drain line or have the system serviced.
Drip Pan
The drip pan on the attic furnace does not have a float switch and should be serviced to include one.
Metal Ducts
cleaning process.
Circulating Fan
The circulating fan is not visible for inspection.
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Fireplace
There are a wide variety of fireplaces, which represent an even wider variety of interrelated components that
comprise them. However, there are three basic types, single-walled metal, masonry, and pre-fabricated metal
ones that are commonly referred to as factory-built ones. Single-walled metal ones should not be confused with
factory-built metal ones, and are rarely found in residential use, but masonry and factory-built ones are a
commonplace. Our inspection of them is that of a generalist not a specialist, and meets industry standards.
However, significant areas of chimney flues cannot be adequately viewed during a field inspection, as has been
documented by the Chimney Safety Institute of America, which reported in 1992: "The inner reaches of a flue
are relatively inaccessible, and it should not be expected that the distant oblique view from the top or bottom is
adequate to fully document damage even with a strong light." Therefore, because our inspection of chimneys is
limited to those areas that can be viewed without dismantling any portion of them, and does not include the use
of specialized equipment, we will not guarantee their integrity and recommend that they be video-scanned by a
certified chimney sweep before closing. We would suggest a level 2 inspection of all chimneys before closing,
to ensure safe use. We do not inspect the screens and doors, the surrounds, the make-up air devices, heat
distribution assists, nor do we determine draft characteristics. Non-venting systems are not endorsed and we
would suggest having a certified chimney sweep determine the combustion gas output of these systems. We
also would suggest installation of carbon monoxide detectors.
Chimney flues need to be periodically cleaned to prevent the possibility of chimney fires. However, the
complex variety of deposits that form within chimneys are not easily understood. They range from pure carbon,
which does not burn, to tars that can ignite. All of these deposits are commonly described as creosote, but
creosote has many forms, ranging from crusty carbon deposits that can be easily brushed away, to a tar-glazed
creosote that requires chemical cleaning. These deposits should be identified and treated by a specialist.
However, cleaning a chimney is not a guarantee against a fire. Studies have proven that a significant
percentage of chimney fires have resulted within one month of the chimney being cleaned, and many more
have resulted within a six-month period. All real estate transactions are recommended to have a NFPA 211,
level II inspection by a certified chimney sweep, which would include a video scan of the flues.
Hearth Room Fireplace

General Prefabricated Chimney Comments
There are a wide variety of pre-fabricated chimneys, which are constructed on site with approved components.
We perform a competent inspection of them, but we are not specialists, and our inspection of them is limited to
those areas that can be viewed without dismantling any portion of them, and we cannot guarantee that any
particular component is the one stipulated for use by the manufacturer. For instance, experience has taught us
that many prefabricated chimneys have been fitted with architectural shrouds that are not approved by the
manufacturer, and which can inhibit drafting and convectional cooling. Therefore, you may wish to have a
specialist evaluate the chimney before closing..
Chimney Stack or Walls
The framed chimney walls appear to be in acceptable condition. Refer to the exterior trim and siding section for
information about the cladding.
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The framed chimney walls appear to be in acceptable condition - Continued
Chimney Flashings
The chimney flashings appear to be in acceptable condition.
Crown or Termination Cap
The chimney crown, which is designed to seal the chimney wall and to shed rainwater and thereby prevent
moisture from deteriorating the chimney, has no apparent deficiencies.
Chimney Flue
have resulted within a six-month period.
A complete view of the chimney flue is not possible, and you may wish to have it video scanned by a certified
chimney sweep. Conditions may be present that were not visible.
Firebox
The firebox appears to be in acceptable condition.
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The firebox appears to be in acceptable condition - Continued
Weather Cap
The weather cap on the chimney appears to be in acceptable condition.
Ornamental Gas Logs
The ornamental gas log fire is functional. We do not check carbon monoxide levels and we would recommend
a carbon monoxide detector be installed.
Glass Doors
The fireplace glass doors are functional.
Mantle
The fireplace mantle is in acceptable condition.
Basement Fireplace
General Prefabricated Chimney Comments
There are a wide variety of pre-fabricated chimneys, which are constructed on site with approved components.
specialist evaluate the chimney before the close of escrow.
Chimney Flashings
Crown or Termination Cap
The chimney crown, which is designed to seal the chimney wall and to shed rainwater and thereby prevent
moisture from deteriorating the chimney, has no apparent deficiencies.
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Weather Cap
The weather cap on the chimney appears to be in acceptable condition.
Spark Arrestor
A functional spark arrestor is in place on the chimney.
Chimney Flue
The small portions of the flue that are visible appear to be in acceptable condition.
A complete view of the chimney flue is not possible, and you may wish to have it video scanned by a certified
chimney sweep. Conditions may be present that were not visible.
Firebox
Damper
There appears to be no damper on this fireplace. This type of gas log system is direct venting and drafting
characteristics were not evaluated during this inspection. We would suggest a qualified individual determine
the venting characteristics of this system.
Ornamental Gas Logs
The ornamental gas log fire does not respond and should be serviced.
Glass Doors
The fireplace glass doors are functional.
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Hearth
The hearth is in acceptable condition with no apparent deficiencies.
Mantle
Master Bedoom Fireplace

General Prefabricated Fireplace Comments
There are a wide variety of pre-fabricated fireplaces, which are constructed on site with approved components.
specialist evaluate the chimney before the close of escrow.
Chimney Stack or Walls
The metal chimney walls appear to be in acceptable condition.
Chimney Flashings
Chimney Flue
A complete view of the chimney flue is not possible, and you may wish to have it video scanned.
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Firebox
Damper
There appears to be no damper on this fireplace. This type of gas log system is direct venting and drafting
characteristics were not evaluated during this inspection. We would suggest a qualified individual determine
the venting characteristics of this system.
Ornamental Gas Logs
The ornamental gas log fire is functional.
Mantel
Interior
Our inspection of the interior common space is to the extent of which has already been described, and includes
the visibly accessible areas of walls, floors, cabinets and closets, and the testing of a representative number of
windows and doors, switches and outlets. Termite activity can be concealed within areas that are concealed
and you could have damage from termites that may not be visible. No easy remedy exists to repair termite
damage, short of replacing damaged areas. No carpeting was lifted during the inspection. It is not uncommon
to have hidden damage within wall or ceiling areas in houses such as this. Oftentimes new homeowners
discover hidden termite damage when walls are opened up during remodeling efforts. Termite damage within
walls or ceilings cannot be detected without destruction of wallboard. This is beyond the scope of this visual
home inspection. Vermin and other pests are part of the natural habitat, but they often invade homes. Rats and
mice have collapsible rib cages and can squeeze through even the tiniest crevices. And it is not uncommon for
them to establish colonies within crawlspaces, attics, closets, and even the space inside walls, where they can
breed and become a health-hazard. Therefore, it would be prudent to have an exterminator evaluate the
residence to ensure that it is rodent-proof, and to periodically monitor those areas that are not readily
accessible.
We tested built-in appliances using normal operating controls. Accuracy and/or function of the clocks, timers,
temperature controls and self-cleaning functions on ovens is beyond the scope of our inspection procedures.
Refrigerators are not tested or inspected. We do not comment on cosmetic deficiencies, or the normal wear
and tear that is associated with usage and the passage of time. We may comment on the cracks that appear
around windows and doors, or which follow the lines of framing members and the seams of drywall and
plasterboard. These cracks are a consequence of movement, such as wood shrinkage, common settling, and
seismic activity, and will often reappear if they are not correctly repaired. Such cracks can become the subject
of disputes, and are therefore best evaluated by a geologist or a structural engineer. Similarly, there are a
number of environmental pollutants that can contaminate a home, such as asbestos, pet odors, carbon
monoxide, radon, and a variety of molds and fungi that require specialized testing equipment, which is beyond
our expertise and the scope of our service.
Similarly, there are a number of environmental pollutants that we have already elaborated upon, the specific
identification of which is beyond the scope of our service but which can become equally contentious. In
addition, there are a host of lesser contaminants, such as that from moisture penetrating carpet-covered cracks
in floor slabs, as well as odors from household pets and cigarette smoke that can permeate walls, carpets,
heating and air conditioning ducts, and other porous surfaces, and which can be difficult to eradicate. However,
inasmuch as the sense of smell adjusts rapidly, and the sensitivity to such odors is certainly not uniform, we
recommend that you make this determination for yourself, and particularly if you or any member of your family
suffers from allergies or asthma, and then schedule whatever remedial services may be deemed necessary
before closing.
Smoke alarms should be installed on every level of building, including the basement, on ceilings or high on
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walls. They should be tested once a month, according to manufacturer's instructions. Batteries should be
replaced once a year or as soon as the smoke alarm "chirps," indicating the battery is low. Smoke alarms
should be replaced every 10 years, even those that are hard-wired, or "long life," 10-year battery-types.
Hard-wired alarms should be installed by a qualified electrician.
Interior Components
Walls and Ceiling
The interior walls and ceilings appear to be in acceptable condition. We do not comment on cosmetic issues.
The walls and ceiling in the home have typical cosmetic damage that we will not comment on.
There are moisture stains on the interior walls or ceilings that appear to be a past problem. Moisture detection
equipment did not indicate an active leak, but you should ask the sellers to explain or have this area explored
further.
The walls and ceilings have typical stress fractures, which have resulted from movement, and which will usually
reappear if they are not repaired correctly.
Vaulted or cathedral ceilings often lack adequate insulation and lack ventilation. These areas are not available
for a visual inspection. Leaks, condensation, mold, and ice dams can occur in these areas. Ask the owner for
any history of problems or leaks
Floor
The interior floors have wear or damage that is commensurate with its age.
Doors
The interior doors appear to be functional. Minor adjustments and repairs would have not been noted.
Dual-Glazed Windows
The dual-glazed windows are functional. Minor repairs or adjustments would have not been noted.
Electrical
The interior outlets that were tested are functional.
Smoke Detectors
The smoke detectors are present and functional. The accessible detectors are tested by the push button only
and should be tested on a monthly basis. Smoke detector should be replaced every ten years.
Carbon Monoxide Detectors
A carbon monoxide detector is not visibly located in the home. It is recommended that at least one carbon
monoxide detector be installed at each bedroom level and you should consider this installation as a safety
upgrade. Install a carbon monoxide detector with a digital display in your home. Check it regularly. Carbon
monoxide, an odorless and colorless gas, can go undetected until health problems occur. Short-term and
long-term exposure to high levels of CO can cause death.
Stairs
There is no recommended service
We have evaluated the stairs and landings in compliance with industry standards, and found them to be in
acceptable condition.
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WaterHeater
There are a wide variety of residential water heaters that range in capacity from fifteen to one hundred gallons.
They can be expected to last at least as long as their warranty, or from 10 to 12 years, but they will generally
last longer. However, few of them last longer than fifteen or twenty years and many of them eventually leak. So
it is always wise to have them installed over a drain pan, that would collect water leakage, and preferably
plumbed to a floor drain or the exterior.
Water Heater(s)
General Gas Water Heater Comments
Most manufactures of water heaters recommend flushing the tank twice a year to remove the sediment from
the bottom of the tank. However, the drain valves on older unit may leak after opening the valve.
Sediment will reduces efficiency and causes rumbling, from the tank.
To drain the tank, turn off the water supply at the tank top, hook a hose to the drain spigot at the base, open a
hot-water tap anywhere in the house and open the drain spigot. When the tank is drained, turn on the water
supply at the tank top and let it run until the water draining out is clear. Close the spigot and turn off the tap.
(Do this monthly if the level of sediment in your water is high.)
Typical gas and electric water heater Illustration
Hot water is provided by a 2000, 50 gallon, electric water heater located in the basement.

The water heater in the west basement is not stable and should be serviced by a qualified contractor.
Shut-Off Valve and Water Connectors
The shut-off valve and water connectors on the water heater appear to be functional. The water shut-off valve
is visually inspected but we do not physically exercise this component.
Drain Valve
The drain valve on the water heater is in place and presumed to be functional.
Pressure Release Valve and Discharge Pipe
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The water heater is equipped with a mandated pressure-temperature relief valve, which we do not operate.
Drip Pan and Overflow Pipe
The water heater is not equipped with a drip pan or overflow pipe, which is designed to minimize water damage
from a leak. We would suggest to install this drain system to minimize damage to the area around the tank, if it
leaks.
Electrical Connections
The electrical connection to the water heater has no visible deficiencies.
Water Heater 2
General Gas Water Heater Comments
Most manufactures of water heaters recommend flushing the tank twice a year to remove the sediment from
the bottom of the tank. However, the drain valves on older unit may leak after opening the valve.
Sediment will reduces efficiency and causes rumbling, from the tank.
To drain the tank, turn off the water supply at the tank top, hook a hose to the drain spigot at the base, open a
hot-water tap anywhere in the house and open the drain spigot. When the tank is drained, turn on the water
supply at the tank top and let it run until the water draining out is clear. Close the spigot and turn off the tap.
(Do this monthly if the level of sediment in your water is high.)
Hot water is provided by a 2007, 50 gallon gas water heater that is located in the basement.
Vent Pipe and Cap
The vent pipe and cap on the gas water heater have no visible deficiencies.
Gas Shut-Off Valve and Connector
The gas control valve and its connector at the water heater appear to be functional. The gas control valve is
visually inspected and we do not physically exercise this component.
Shut-Off Valve and Water Connectors
The shut-off valve and water connectors on the water heater appear to be functional. The water shut-off valve
is visually inspected but we do not physically exercise this component.
Combustion Chamber
The water heater is a newer "sealed chamber" water heater and the combustion chamber was not visible.
These water heater are a safer model because they prevent flammable gases from entering the area that has
the actual flames that heat the water.
Drain Valve
The drain valve on the water heater is in place and presumed to be functional.
Pressure Release Valve and Discharge Pipe
The water heater is equipped with a mandated pressure-temperature relief valve, which we do not operate.
Drip Pan and Overflow Pipe
The water heater is not equipped with a drip pan or overflow pipe, which is designed to minimize water damage
from a leak. We would suggest to install this drain system to minimize damage to the area around the tank, if it
leaks.
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Sump Pump
Moisture in below-grade foundations is a perennial problem, involving a host of interrelated factors, and can be
unpredictable, intermittent, or constant. When moisture intrusion or dampness is not self evident, it can be
inferred by musty odors, peeling paint or plaster, efflorescence, or salt crystal formations, rust on metal
components, and wood rot. However, condensation and humidity can produce similar conditions if the
temperature in the below-grade foundation area is not maintained above the dew point. Regardless, we are not
mold specialists, and if you or any member of your family are sensitive to allergens you should schedule a
specialist inspection.
Sump Pump
Sump Pump Observations
There is a functional, float-activated, sump-pump in the basement. This means that moisture intrusion may be
a chronic problem. Therefore, the sump-pump should be periodically tested and any storage items should be
isolated from the floor and walls.
We would recommend the installation of a battery back-up system for the sump pump(s). Battery back up
systems provide power for the sump pump(s) during a power outage and we highly recommend them.
Kitchen
We test kitchen appliances for their functionality, and cannot evaluate them for their performance nor for the
variety of their settings or cycles. However, if they are older than ten years, they may well exhibit decreased
efficiency. Regardless, we do not inspect the following items: free-standing appliances, refrigerators,
trash-compactors, built-in toasters, coffee-makers, can-openers, blenders, instant hot-water dispensers,
water-purifiers, barbecues, grills, or rotisseries, timers, clocks, thermostats, the self-cleaning capacity of ovens,
portable microwaves, and concealed or countertop lighting, which is convenient but often installed after the
initial construction and powered by ungrounded conduits or extension cords.
Kitchen
General Kitchen Comments
Picture Of Kitchen
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Picture of Kitchen - Continued
Sink
The kitchen sink has no apparent deficiencies.
Faucet
The kitchen sink faucet has no apparent deficiencies. There are typical mineral stains from past water leaks
and this fixture should be monitored.
Valves and Connectors
The valves and connectors below the kitchen sink have no apparent deficiencies. However, they are not in
daily use and will inevitably become stiff or frozen.
Deterioration is noted on the fittings of the connectors under the sink that should be monitored. No leaks were
present during this inspection.
Trap and Drain
The trap and drain at the kitchen sink have no apparent deficiencies.
Garbage Disposal
The garbage disposal has no apparent deficiencies.
Dishwasher
The dishwasher has no apparent deficiencies.
Maintenance Tips- Twice a Year: (If you mechanical abilities allow)

Lift out the strainer and clean it with warm soapy water and a soft-plastic scrubby pad.
Remove the spray arm and clean it by poking a piece of stiff wire through the holes. Then shake the spray arm
to make sure nothing is inside, such as seeds from fruit like watermelon. Finally, scrub any mineral deposits off
the spray arm with hot distilled white vinegar. (The cap holding the shower arm in place is typically
reverse-threaded, which means you should turn it clockwise to remove it. Be careful not to drop the nut or
washer into the motor.)
When you run a regular wash cycle, place a small container filled with 1 cup of distilled white vinegar in both
the dish rack (lower) and the cup rack (upper); the dishwasher will disperse the vinegar during the wash cycle.
This dissolves mineral accumulation and soap residue throughout the dishwasher, especially at the hinges
where rust-causing buildup occurs.
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Gas Cook Top

The gas cook top has no apparent deficiencies.
Built-in Electrical Oven
The electrical oven(s) have no apparent deficiencies, but was neither calibrated nor tested for its performance.
Exhaust Fan or Downdraft
The kitchen exhaust fan is functional and a type that vents to the exterior.
Built-in Microwave
The built-in microwave appears to be functional but we did not test it for leakage, which would require a
specialized instrument.
Outlets
The outlets in the kitchen that were tested are functional and include ground-fault protection.
Lights
The lights in the kitchen are functional.
Cabinets
The kitchen cabinets appear to be functional, and do not have any significant damage.
Counter Top
The kitchen counter top is functional.
Laundry
In accordance with industry standards, we do not test clothes dryers, nor washing machines and their water
connections and drainpipes. However, there are two things that you should be aware of. The water supply to
washing machines is usually left on, and their hoses can leak or burst under pressure and continue to flow.
Therefore, we recommend replacing old rubber hoses with modern braided stainless steel types that are much
more dependable. You should also be aware that modern washing machines discharge a greater volume of
water than many of the older drainpipes can handle, which causes the water to back up and overflow. The only
remedy for this is to enlarge the drainpipe.
First Floor Laundry

General Laundry Room Comments
The laundry room is not equipped with a drip pan and overflow pipe, which is designed to minimize water
damage from a leak. We would suggest to install this drain system as an upgrade.
Dryer Receptacle
The dryer receptacle was tested and is functional with no apparent deficiencies.
Washing Machine Receptacle
The washing machine outlet was tested and is functional with no apparent deficiencies.
Gas Valve & Connector
The gas line for the dryer is not capped, and should be capped to prevent gas leakage.
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Dryer Vent
The dryer vents to the exterior and must be cleaned regularly, because trapped lint can rapidly turn into a fire
hazard.
Recessed Box Water Valves
The recessed box at the laundry has no apparent deficiencies. We do not test the drains during our visual
inspection.
Sink
The sink in the laundry appears to be functional, with no apparent deficiencies or service needed at this time.
Faucet
The laundry sink faucet appears to be functional.
Trap and Drain
The trap and drain lines for the laundry appears to be functional. These lines were not water tested.
Upper Hallway Laundry

General Laundry Room Comments
The upper level laundry room does not appear to be equipped with a drip pan and overflow pipe, which is
designed to minimize water damage from a leak. We would suggest to install this drain system as an upgrade.
Dryer Receptacle
The dryer receptacle was tested and is functional with no apparent deficiencies.
Washing Machine Receptacle
There is no 110 outlet in the laundry area.
Dryer Vent
The dryer vents to the exterior and must be cleaned regularly, because trapped lint can rapidly turn into a fire
hazard.
Recessed Box Water Valves
The recessed box at the laundry has no apparent deficiencies. We do not test the drains during our visual
inspection.
Valves and Connectors
The valves and connectors at the laundry area appear to be functional. However, because they are not in daily
use they typically become stiff or frozen.
Trap and Drain
The laundry trap was not visible.
Bathrooms
Our inspection of the bathrooms includes a visual examination of the readily accessible portions of the floors,
walls, ceiling and plumbing fixtures. Fixtures are run simultaneously to check for adequate water pressure and
volume. Fixtures are tested using normal operating features and controls. Please be aware that we do not
comment on cosmetic deficiencies, and that our service does not include an evaluation of window treatments,
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steam showers and saunas, nor do we leak-test shower pans. Any damage to bathroom tile and walls can be a
serious problem. Surface damage, grout damage and loose tile may allow water to penetrate the surface and
cause mold, rot and damage to the substrate and structure. All tile damage must be investigated and repaired
as soon as possible to prevent further damage.
Master Bathroom
Size and Location
The master bathroom is a full bathroom.
Sink Faucet Valves & Connectors Trap & Drain

The bathroom sink and its components have no visual deficiencies.
Stall Shower
The stall shower has no apparent deficiencies.
Toilet
The toilet has no apparent deficiencies.
Exhaust Source
The bathroom exhaust fan is functional.
The bathroom window appears to be functional.
Lights
The bathroom lights are functional.
Outlets
The bathroom outlets are functional and include ground-fault protection.
The master bedroom closet ground-fault outlet is not re-connecting power and should be replaced.
Hydro-Spa
There is no apparent access to service the hydro-spa motor, which should be provided.
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The hydro-spa does not appear to have ground fault protection, which is an important safety feature that should
be verified as being present or added.
Half Bathroom
Toilet
Exhaust Source
The bathroom exhaust fan appears to be functional.
Lights
Outlets
Basement Bathroom
Size and Location
The basement bathroom is a three-quarter bathroom.
Stall Shower
The stall shower has no apparent deficiencies.
Toilet
Exhaust Source
Lights
Outlets
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Upper East Bathroom

Size and Location
The upper east bathroom is a full bathroom.
The bathroom sink and its components have no apparent deficiencies.
Tub-Shower
The tub/shower has no apparent deficiencies.
Toilet
The flapper valve in the toilet tank sticks, which causes the toilet to free-flow, and should be serviced.
Exhaust Source
Lights
Outlets
Upper West Bathroom

Size and Location
The upper west bathroom is a three-quarter bathroom.
The bathroom sink and its components have no apparent deficiencies.
Stall Shower
The hand sprayer in the shower has very low water flow and should be serviced.
Toilet
Exhaust Source
Lights
Outlets
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Attic
In accordance with industry standards, we will not attempt to enter an attic that has less than thirty-six inches of
headroom, is restricted by ducts, or in which the insulation obscures the joists and thereby makes mobility
hazardous, in which case we will inspect the attic as best we can from the access point. In evaluating the type
and amount of insulation on the attic floor, we use only generic terms and approximate measurements, and do
not sample or test its composition for a specific identification. Also, we do not move or disturb any portion of the
insulation, which may well obscure water pipes, electrical wiring, junction boxes, exhaust fans, and other
components. In this climate the temperatures can be over 150 degrees in the summer months and equal to the
outside temperatures during the winter months. The ceiling joists are covered with insulation and are not
inspected.
Attic Observations
General Attic Comments
The attic is finished and the systems and components were not visible and were not inspected.
Ventilation
Ventilation within the attic is inadequate and should be improved. The lack of ventilation in these areas can
result in excess heat and condensation in the attic areas that could damage elements of the roof coverings,
roof framing, and the soffits and fascia boards. Therefore, we recommend that you have additional vents
installed for additional air flow.
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AMERICAN SOCIETY OF HOME INSPECTORS
STANDARDS OF PRACTICE
TABLE OF CONTENTS
1. Introduction
2. Purpose and Scope
3. Structural System
4. Exterior
5. Roofing
6. Plumbing
7. Electrical
8. Heating
9. Air Conditioning
10. Interiors
11. Insulation and Ventilation
12. Fireplaces and Solid Fuel Burning Appliances
13. General Limitations and Exclusions
Distribution of this material is not an indication of ASHI® Membership.

For a free listing of the Membership go to“Find an Inspector” at www.ashi.org.
To obtain additional copies or request permission to reprint The ASHI® Standards of Practice and Code of
Ethics, contact: The American Society of Home Inspectors, Inc.® 932 Lee Street, Suite 101 Des Plaines, IL
60016 800-743-ASHI/2744
No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any
means, electronic, mechanical, photocopy, recording or otherwise, without the prior written consent of the
publisher.
HOME INSPECTIONS
Home inspections were being performed in the mid 1950s, and by the early 1970s were considered by many
consumers to be essential to the real estate transaction. The escalating demand was due to a growing desire by
homebuyers to learn about the condition of a house prior to purchase. Meeting the expectations of consumers
required a unique discipline, distinct from construction, engineering, architecture, or municipal building
inspection. As such, home inspection requires its own set of professional guidelines and qualifications. The
American Society of Home Inspectors (ASHI) formed in 1976 and established the ASHI Standards of Practice
and Code of Ethics to help buyers and sellers make real estate transaction decisions based on accurate,
objective information.
American Society of Home Inspectors

As the oldest, largest and highest profile organization of home inspectors in North America, ASHI takes pride in
its position of leadership. Its Membership works to build public awareness of home inspection and to enhance
the technical and ethical performance of home inspectors.
Standards of Practice
The ASHI Standards of Practice guide home inspectors in the performance of their inspections. Subject to
regular review, the Standards of Practice reflect information gained through surveys of conditions in the field
and of the consumers’ interests and concerns. Vigilance has elevated ASHI’s Standards of Practice so that
today they are the most widely-accepted home inspection guidelines in use and are recognized by many
government and professional groups as the definitive standard for professional performance.
Code of Ethics
ASHI’s Code of Ethics stresses the home inspector’s responsibility to report the results of the inspection in a
strictly fair, impartial, and professional manner, avoiding conflicts of interest.
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ASHI Membership
Selecting the right home inspector can be as important as finding the right home. ASHI Members have
performed no fewer than 250 fee-paid inspections in accordance with the ASHI Standards of Practice. They
have passed written examinations testing their knowledge of residential construction, defect recognition,
inspection techniques, and report-writing, as well as ASHI’s Standards of Practice and Code of Ethics.
Membership in the American Society of Home Inspectors is well-earned and maintained only through meeting
requirements for continuing education.
ASHI Standards of Practice Effective October 15, 2006 © Copyright 2006 American Society of Home
Inspectors, Inc.® All rights reserved
ASHI STANDARDS OF PRACTICE
1. INTRODUCTION
The American Society of Home Inspectors®, Inc. (ASHI®) is a not-for-profit professional society established in
1976. Membership in ASHI is voluntary and its members are private home inspectors. ASHI’s objectives
include promotion of excellence within the profession and continual improvement of its members’ inspection
services to the public.
2. PURPOSE AND SCOPE
2.1 The purpose of the Standards of Practice is to establish a minimum and uniform standard for home
inspectors who subscribe to these Standards of Practice. Home inspections performed to these Standards of
Practice are intended to provide the client with objective information regarding the condition of the systems and
components of the home as inspected at the time of the home inspection. Redundancy in the description of the
requirements, limitations, and exclusions regarding the scope of the home inspection is provided for emphasis
only.
2.2 Inspectors shall:

A.adher to the Code of Ethics of the American Society of Home Inspectors.
B.inspect readily accessible, visually observable, installed systems and components listed in these Standards
of Practice.
C.report:
1. those systems and components inspected: The inspector is NOT required to: that, in the professional
judgment of the inspector, are not functioning properly, significantly deficient, unsafe, or are near the end of
their service lives.
2. recommendations to correct, or monitor for future correction, the deficiencies reported in 2.2.C.1, or items
needing further evaluation. (Per Exclusion 13.2.A.5 inspectors are NOT required to determine methods,
materials, or costs of corrections.)
3. reasoning or explanation as to the nature of the deficiencies reportd in 2.2.C.1, that are not self-evident.
4. systems and components designated for inspection in these Standards of Practice that were present at the
time of the home inspection but were not inspected and the reason(s) they were not inspected.
2.3 These Standards of Practice are not intended to limit inspectors from:
A. including other inspection services or systems and components in addition to those required in Section
2.2.B.
B. designing or specifying repairs, provided the inspector is appropriately qualified and willing to do so.
C. excluding systems and components from the inspection if requested by the client.
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3. STRUCTURAL COMPONENTS
3.1 The inspector shall:

A. inspect:
1. structural components including the foundation and framing.
2. by probing a representative number of structural components where deterioration is suspected or where clear
indications of possible deterioration exist. Probing is NOT required when probing would damage any finished
surface or where no deterioration is visible or presumed to exist.
B. describe:
1. the methods used to inspect under-floor crawl spaces and attics.
2. the foundation.
3. the floor structure.
4. the wall structure.
5. the ceiling structure.
6. the roof structure.
3.2 The inspector is NOT required to:

A. provide any engineering or architectural services or analysis.
B. offer an opinion as to the adequacy of any structural system or component.
4. EXTERIOR

A. inspect:
1. siding, flashing and trim.
2. all exterior doors.
3. attached or adjacent decks, balconies,stoops, steps, porches, and their associated railings.
4. eaves, soffits, and fascias where accessible from the ground level.
5. vegetation, grading, surface drainage, and retaining walls that are likely to adversely inspectors from:
A. including other inspection services or systems and components in addition to those required in Section
2.2.B.affect the building.
6. adjacent or entryway walkways, patios, and driveways.
B. describe:
1. siding.
4.2 The inspector is NOT required to inspect:

A. screening, shutters, awnings, and similar seasonal accessories.
B. fences.
C. geological and/or soil conditions.
D. recreational facilities.
E. outbuildings other than garages and carports.
F. seawalls, break-walls, and docks.
G. erosion control and earth stabilization measures.
5. ROOFING

A. inspect:
1. roofing materials.
2. roof drainage systems.
3. flashing.
4. skylights, chimneys, and roof penetrations.
B.Describe:
1. roofing materials.
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2. methods used to inspect the roofing.

A. antennae.
B. interiors of flues or chimneys that are not readily accessible.
C. other installed accessories.
6. PLUMBING

A. inspect:
1. interior water supply and distribution systems including all fixtures and faucets.
2. drain, waste, and vent systems including all fixtures.
3. water heating equipment and hot water supply system.
4. vent systems, flues, and chimneys.
5. fuel storage and fuel distribution systems.
6. drainage sumps, sump pumps, and related piping.
B. describe:
1. water supply, drain, waste, and vent piping materials.
2. water heating equipment including energy source(s).
3. location of main water and fuel shut-off valves.

A. inspect:
1. clothes washing machine connections.
2. interiors of flues or chimneys that are not readily accessible.
3. wells, well pumps, or water storage related equipment.
4. water conditioning systems.
5. solar water heating systems.
6. fire and lawn sprinkler systems. 7. private waste disposal systems.
B. determine:
1. whether water supply and waste disposal systems are public or private.
2. water supply quantity or quality.
C. operate automatic safety controls or manual stop valves.
7.ELECTRICAL

A. inspect:
1. service drop.
2. service entrance conductors, cables, and raceways.
3. service equipment and main disconnects. 4. service grounding.
5. interior components of service panels and sub panels.
6. conductors.
7. overcurrent protection devices.
8. a representative number of installed lighting fixtures, switches, and receptacles.
9. ground fault circuit interrupters.
B. describe:
1. amperage and voltage rating of the service.
2. location of main disconnect(s) and sub panels.
3. presence of solid conductor aluminum branch circuit wiring.
4. presence or absence of smoke detectors. 5. wiring methods.
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A. inspect:
1. remote control devices.
2. alarm systems and components.
3. low voltage wiring systems and components.
4. ancillary wireing systems and components. not a part of the primary electrical power distribution system.
B. measure amperage, voltage, or impedance.
8.HEATING

A. open readily openable access panels
B. inspect:
1. installed heating equipment.
2. vent systems, flues, and chimneys.
C. describe:
1. energy source(s).
2. heating systems

A. inspect:
1. interiors of flues or chimneys that are not readily accessible.
2. heat exchangers.
3. humidifiers or dehumidifiers
4. electronic air filters.
5. solar space heating systems.
B. determine heat supply adequacy or distribution balance.
9. AIR CONDITIONING

A. open readily openable access panels.
B. inspect:
1. central and through-wall equipment
2. distribution systems.
C. describe:
1. energy source(s).
2. cooling systems.

A. inspect electronic air filters.
B. determine cooling supply adequacy or distribution balance.
C. inspect window air conditioning units.
10. INTERIORS
10.1 The inspector shall inspect:

A. walls, ceilings, and floors.
B. steps, stairways, and railings.
C. countertops and a representative number of installed cabinets.
D. a representative number of doors and windows.
E. garage doors and garage door operators.

A. paint, wallpaper, and other finish treatments.
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B. carpeting.
C. window treatments.
D. central vacuum systems.
E. household appliances.
F. recreational facilities.
11. INSULATION & VENTILATION

A. inspect:
1. insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces.
2. ventilation of attics and foundation areas.
3. mechanical ventilation systems
B. describe:
1. insulation and vapor retarders in unfinished spaces.
2. absence of insulation in unfinished spaces at conditioned surfaces.
11.2 The inspector is NOT required to disturb insulation. See 13.2.A.11 and 13.2.A.12.
12. FIREPLACES AND SOLID FUEL BURNING APPLIANCES

A. inspect:
1. system components.
2. chimney and vents.
B. describe:
1. fireplaces add solid fuel burning appliances.
2. chimneys.

A. inspect:
1. interiors of flues or chimneys.
2. firescreens and doors.
3. seals and gaskets.
4. automatic fuel feed devices.
5. mantles and fireplace surrounds.
6. combustion make-up air devices.
7. heat distribution assists (gravity fed and fan assisted).
B. ignite or extinguish fires.
C. determine draft characteristics.
D. move fireplace inserts and stoves or firebox contents.
13. GENERAL LIMITATIONS AND EXCLUSIONS
13.1 General limitations:

A. The inspector is NOT required to perform any action or make any determination not specifically stated in
these Standards of Practice.
B. Inspections performed in accordance with these Standards of Practice:
1. are not technically exhaustive.
2. are not required to identify concealed. conditions, latent defects, or consequential damage(s).
C. These Standards of Practice are applicable to buildings with four or fewer dwelling units and their garages or
carports.
13.2 General exclusions:
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A. Inspectors are NOT required to determine:

1. conditions of systems or components that are not readily accessible.
2. remaining life expectancy of any system or component.
3. strength, adequacy, effectiveness, or efficiency of any system or component.
4. the causes of any condition or deficiency.
5. methods, materials, or costs of corrections.
6. future conditions including but not limited to failure of systems and components.
7. the suitability of the property for any specialized use.
8. compliance with regulatory requirements (codes, regulations, laws, ordinances, etc.).
9. market value of the property or its marketability.
10. the advisability of purchase of the property.
11. the presence of potentially hazardous plants or animals including, but not limited to, wood destroying
organisms or diseases harmful to humans including molds or mold-like substances.
12. the presence of any environmental hazards including, but not limited to, toxins, carcinogens, noise, and
contaminants in soil, water, and air.
13. the effectiveness of any system installed or method utilized to control or remove suspected hazardous
substances.
14. operating costs of systems or components.
15. acoustical
16. soil conditions relating to geotechnical or hydrologic specialties.
B. Inspectors are NOT required to offer:
1. or perform any act or service contrary to law.
2. or perform engineering services.
3. or perform any trade or any professional service other than home inspection.
4. warranties or guarantees of any kind.
C. Inspectors are NOT required to operate:
1. any system or component that is shut down or otherwise inoperable.
2. any system or component that does not respond to normal operating controls.
3. shut-off valves or manual stop valves.
D. Inspectors are NOT required to enter:
1. any area that will, in the opinion of the inspector, likely be dangerous to the inspector or other persons or
damage the property or its systems or components.
2. under-floor crawl spaces or attics that are not readily accessible.
E. Inspectors are NOT required to inspect:
1. underground items including but not limited to underground storage tanks or other underground indications of
their presence, whether abandoned or active.
2. items that are not installed. 3. installed decorative items.
4. items in areas that are not entered in accordance with 13.2.D.
5. detached structures other than garages and carports.
6. common elements or common areas in multi-unit housing, such as condominium properties or cooperative
housing.
F. Inspectors are NOT required to:
1. perform any procedure or operation that will, in the opinion of the inspector, likely be dangerous to the
inspector or other persons or damage the property or its systems or components.
2. describe or report on any system or component that is not included in these Standards and was not
inspected.
3. move personal property, furniture, equipment, plants, soil, snow, ice, or debris.
4. dismantle any system or component, except as explicitly required by these Standards of Practice.
ASHI STANDARDS OF PRACTICE GLOSSARY OF ITALICIZED TERMS
Alarm Systems
Warning devices installed or freestanding including but not limited to smoke detectors, carbon monoxide
detectors, flue gas, and other spillage detectors, and security equipment
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Automatic Safety Controls

Devices designed and installed to protect systems and components from unsafe conditions
Component
A part of a system
Decorative Ornamental; not required for the proper operation of the essential systems and components of a
home
Describe identify (in writing) a system or component by its type or other distinguishing characteristics
Dismantle
take apart or remove any component, device, or piece of equipment that would not be taken apart or removed
by a homeowner in the course of normal maintenance
Engineering
The application of scientific knowledge for the design, control, or use of building structures, equipment, or
apparatus
Further Evaluation
Examination and analysis by a qualified professional, tradesman, or service technician beyond that provided by
the home inspection
Home Inspection
The process by which an inspector visually examines the readily accessible systems and components of a
home and which describes those systems and components in accordance with these Standards of Practice
Household Appliances. Kitchen, laundry, and similar appliances, whether installed or free-standing
Inspect
examine any system or component of a building in accordance with these Standards of Practice, using normal
operating controls and opening readily openable access panels
Inspector
A person hired to examine any system or component of a building in accordance with these Standards of
Practice
Installed
Attached such that removal requires tools
Normal Operating Controls

Devices such as thermostats, switches, or valves intended to be operated by the homeowner
Readily Accessible
Available for visual inspection without requiring moving of personal property, dismantling, destructive
measures, or any action that will likely involve risk to persons or property
Readily Openable Access Panel

A panel provided for homeowner inspection and maintenance that is readily accessible, within normal reach,
can be removed by one person, and is not sealed in place
Recreational Facilities
Spas, saunas, steam baths, swimming pools, exercise, entertainment, athletic, playground or other similar
equipment, and associated accessories
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Report
Communicate in writing
Representative Number
One component per room for multiple similar interior components such as windows, and electric receptacles;
one component on each side of the building for multiple similar exterior components
Roof Drainage Systems

Components used to carry water off a roof and away from a building
Shut Down
A state in which a system or component cannot be operated by normal operating controls
Siding
Exterior wall covering and cladding; such as: aluminum, asphalt, brick, cement/asbestos, EIFS, stone, stucco,
veneer, vinyl, wood, etc.
Solid Fuel Burning Appliances

A hearth and fire chamber or similar prepared place in which a fire may be built and that is built in conjunction
with a chimney; or a listed assembly of a fire chamber, its chimney, and related factory-made parts designed
for unit assembly without requiring field construction
Structural Component
A component that supports non-variable forces or weights (dead loads) and variable forces or weights (live
loads)
System
A combination of interacting or interdependent components, assembled to carry out one or more functions.
Technically Exhaustive
An investigation that involves dismantling, the extensive use of advanced techniques, measurements,
instruments, testing, calculations, or other means
Under-floor Crawl Space

The area within the confines of the foundation and between the ground and the underside of the floor
Unsafe
A condition in a readily accessible, installed system or component that is judged to be a significant risk of bodily
injury during normal, day-to-day use; the risk may be due to damage, deterioration, improper installation, or a
change in accepted residential construction standards
Wiring Methods
Identification of electrical conductors or wires by their general type, such as non-metallic sheathed cable,
armored cable,or knob and tube, etc.
ASHI CODE OF ETHICS - For the Home Inspection Profession
Integrity, honesty, and objectivity are fundamental principles embodied by this Code, which sets forth
obligations of ethical conduct for the home inspection profession. The Membership of ASHI has adopted this
Code to provide high ethical standards to safeguard the public and the profession.
Inspectors shall comply with this Code, shall avoid association with any enterprise whose practices violate this
Code, and shall strive to uphold, maintain, and improve the integrity, reputation, and practice of the home
inspection profession.
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1. Inspectors shall avoid conflicts of interest or activities that compromise, or appear to compromise,
professional independence, objectivity, or inspection integrity.
A. Inspectors shall not inspect properties for compensation in which they have, or expect to have, a financial
interest.
B. Inspectors shall not inspect properties under contingent arrangements whereby any compensation or future
referrals are dependent on reported findings or on the sale of a property.
C. Inspectors shall not directly or indirectly compensate realty agents, or other parties having a financial
interest in closing or settlement of real estate transactions, for the referral of inspections or for inclusion on a
list of recommended inspectors, preferred providers, or similar arrangements.
D. Inspectors shall not receive compensation for an inspection from more than one party unless agreed to by
the client(s).
E. Inspectors shall not accept compensation, directly or indirectly, for recommending contractors, services, or
products to inspection clients or other parties having an interest in inspected properties.
F. Inspectors shall not repair, replace, or upgrade, for compensation, systems or components covered by ASHI
Standards of Practice, for one year after the inspection.
2. Inspectors shall act in good faith toward each client and other interested parties.
A. Inspectors shall perform services and express opinions based on genuine conviction and only within their
areas of education, training, or experience.
B. Inspectors shall be objective in their reporting and not knowingly understate or overstate the significance of
reported conditions.
C. Inspectors shall not disclose inspection results or client information without client approval. Inspectors, at
their discretion, may disclose observed immediate safety hazards to occupants exposed to such hazards, when
feasible.
3. Inspectors shall avoid activities that may harm the public, discredit themselves, or reduce public confidence
in the profession.
A. Advertising, marketing, and promotion of inspectors’ services or qualifications shall not be fraudulent, false,
deceptive, or misleading.
B. Inspectors shall report substantive and willful violations of this Code to the Society.
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CERTIFICATIONS AND AFFILIATIONS
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Illustrations
Illustration - 1 The LANDSCAPING has created potential reservoirs next to the foundation- FYI
Illustration - 2 Grading and drainage is negative or neutral adjacent to the residence and should be corrected
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Illustrations
Illustration - 3 Based on industry recommended water tests the drainpipes are functional at this time
Illustration - 4 There appears to be no damper on this fireplace (direct venting)
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Illustrations
Illustration - 5 There appears to be no damper on this fireplace (direct venting)
Illustration - 6 Ventilation within the attic is limited and should be improved with the installation of additional vents
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REPORT CONCLUSION
1234 Main St., Overland Park, KS 66224
Congratulations on the purchase of your new home. Inasmuch as we never know who will be occupying or
visiting a property, whether it be children or the elderly, we ask you to consider following these general safety
recommendations: install smoke and carbon monoxide detectors; identifying all escape and rescue ports;
rehearse an emergency evacuation of the home; upgrade older electrical systems by at least adding
ground-fault outlets; never service any electrical equipment without first disconnecting its power source;
safety-film all non-tempered glass; ensure that every elevated window and the railings of stairs, landings,
balconies, and decks are child-safe, meaning that barriers are in place or that the distance between the rails is
not wider than three inches; regulate the temperature of water heaters to prevent scalding; make sure that
goods that contain caustic or poisonous compounds, such as bleach, drain cleaners, and nail polish removers
be stored where small children cannot reach them; ensure that all garage doors are well balanced and have a
safety device, particularly if they are the heavy wooden type; remove any double-cylinder deadbolts from
exterior doors; and consider installing child-safe locks or alarms on the exterior doors of all pool or spa
properties.
National Safety Council Recommend 22 Safety Items No Home Should Be Without!
Your home is your castle, but that doesn't mean you can pull the drawbridge and all will be safe. Plenty of
dangers have already invaded your home. According to the National Safety Council and the Safety Council of
Maryland there were 33,000 deaths in and around American's homes in the year 2001.
Take an inventory of your home safety items so that you can be prepared to battle any emergency. You'll find
that the items listed below are all essential to your family's safety. And, of course, feel free to add items to this
list depending on your family's needs.
1. Smoke Detectors: According to the National Safety Council, fire kills more than 2,900 people and injures
16,000 others each year. Most fires that claim lives occur at night. Install smoke detectors on every level and in
each bedroom. Test detectors once a month, and change batteries when you adjust your clocks in the spring
and fall.
2. Carbon Monoxide Detectors:Carbon monoxide is a odorless, colorless, and tasteless gas and killed 300
people last year and sent thousands more to the hospital. For between $40 and $100, a CO detector will alert
you that deadly poison has begun to invade your home. Place a CO detector outside of your bedrooms.
3. Radon: The Environmental Protection Association says radon might be responsible for up to 30,000 lung
cancer deaths each year. Hardware stores carry do-it-yourself radon-detector kits for less than $40. Follow
directions carefully, especially regarding the placement and preparation of the room. We do offer a two day
radon test for $ 125.00 and please let us know if we could be of service.
4. Night Lights: Babababoboooom. That's the sound your family hears when you topple down the stairs on your
way to sneak a midnight snack. Simple, inexpensive night-lights can prevent late-night falls. Place night-lights
away from flammable fabrics like bedspreads. Also, look for new night-lights with cooler mini-neon bulbs. Most
stores also carry state-of-the-art plug-ins that glow in the dark and then fade as day breaks. Be sure you have
adequate lighting in all of your rooms.
5. Sensor Lights: Outdoor motion-sensor lights can help you see your way at night and scare off intruders.
Usually, you can replace existing light fixtures with sensor lights without additional wiring.
6. Sturdy One-Step Stool: Can't reach Aunt Minnie's purple crocheted pillow covers in the back of the closet?
And she's on her way over? You look around the room and your eyes settle on the rocking chair. Instead of
doing a circus act, invest in a sturdy one-step stool to keep on hand when your arms need a boost.
7. Rubber Suction Bath Mats/Slip-Resistant Throw Rugs: You're wet. And so is the floor. A suction-type rubber
mat or adhesive-backed appliqués will keep you steady in the stall and tub. A nonskid rug outside the tub will
prevent slips when you step out. Use slip-resistant rugs throughout your home.
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8. Grab Bars: Hold on to a wall grab bar when you get in and out of the tub. If your bathroom doesn't have grab
bars, you can purchase them at most hardware stores. Fasten them with long screws securely into the wall
studding - not merely into the plaster, tile or wallboard.
9. Handrails: Every set of stairs, whether inside or outside your home, should have sturdy handrails securely
mounted on both sides. Stairs and steps account for nearly half of all fatal falls in the home.
10. Deadbolt Locks: Put a deadbolt lock on every entrance to your home. Ask the locksmith for a deadbolt lock
that's pick- and drill-proof. Such locks start at $150. Invest in sturdy doors; a good lock doesn't serve its
purpose on a flimsy door.
Another lock that's important is one for your gun cabinet. Always lock your gun, if you have one, and lock up
your ammunition separately from your gun.
11. Ground-Fault Circuit Interrupters: GFCIs stop the "juice" before electricity can leak out and hurt you.
Although most new homes come with GFCIs, older homes may not have them. You can replace outlets for
$9-$13 each, or you can purchase plug-in or portable GFCIs for about $12-$30 each. Use them throughout your
home, especially in the kitchen, bathroom and laundry room.
12. Fire Extinguishers: Fire extinguishers have categories for different types of fires. For the home, experts
recommend a "BC" or an "ABC" extinguisher. Never purchase or use an "A" extinguisher in your home. These
water-based extinguishers can cause flames to splatter or cause shocks in an electrical fire, says Julie
Reynolds of the National Fire Protection Association.
13. First-Aid Kit: The kit should include, among other items, antiseptic ointment, bandages and gauze pads in
assorted sizes, adhesive tape, cold packs, disposable gloves, hand cleaner, scissors and tweezers, syrup of
ipecac and eyewash. Check expiration dates and periodically restock. And educate yourself on how to treat
injuries.
14. Flashlights: Keep flashlights where you can easily get to them in case of power outages and severe
weather. Test them regularly. Keep extra batteries close by so that you don't have to fumble blindly in an
emergency.
15. Fire-Safe Window Guards/Safety Glazing: Falls from windows cause death and serious injury to children
each year. Don't rely on screens to prevent falls; they're only designed to keep bugs out. Never place furniture
or beds next to windows where children can climb. Keep windows locked when not in use. If you use window
guards, they must have a release mechanism so they can be opened in an emergency. Consult your fire
department for proper placement. Children should also practice opening the window in their bedroom so that
they know how to escape out of a window. You also may need to purchase an emergency escape ladder.
Safety glazing prevents windows from shattering into shards of glass. Instead, if broken, the glass forms safe
pellets. Look for a permanent mark in the lower corner showing the manufacturer's name, type of safety glass,
and the thickness.
16. Written Family Evacuation Plan: Preparation and practice for all emergencies are vital for all families.
Know the fastest way out of your home and how not to become trapped. Your home should include two exits
from each room. Practice an evacuation plan with your family before a real emergency hits.
17. Family Disaster Kit: When disaster occurs, grab this kit to take with you. Such a kit would include such
essential supplies as nonperishable food, water, cash, flashlights, tools, a battery-operated NOAA all-hazard
alert radio, and a first-aid kit. To save time when evacuating, you can store this kit in a car or in an unattached
garage.
18. NOAA All-Hazard Alert Radio: This radio will help you in a weather emergency, such as a tornado,
hurricane, earthquake or other emergency. You'll pick up the frequency of the National Oceanic and
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Atmospheric Administration, which will include instructions on whether to stay in your home, when to evacuate,
and the status of the emergency event. You can purchase such a radio at a local electronics store.
19. Posted Emergency Phone Numbers: Your posted list should include the local police and fire departments
and your physician. Also include the numbers of friends or relatives as well as your local poison control
number. The American Association of Poison Control Centers has established a nationwide number for people
to use to reach their local poison control center. It's 800-222-1222. Post your list by every phone in the house.
20. Tested Appliances: Appliances using gas or electricity should bear the certification mark from a qualified
testing organization, such as Underwriters Laboratories, the Canadian Standards Association or the American
Gas Association.
21. Personal Protective Equipment: Safety goggles, work gloves, facemasks, and hard hats are all must-haves
for do-it-yourselfers. Protect yourself when tackling that next home project.
22. Tagged Shutoffs: Know how to shut off valves for gas, oil, water, and your home's main electrical supply.
Tag each valve so you can easily identify the switch in an emergency.
We are proud of our service, and trust that you will be happy with the quality of our report. We have made
every effort to provide you with an accurate assessment of the condition of the property and its components
and to alert you to any significant defects or adverse conditions. However, we may not have tested every
outlet, and opened every window and door, or identified every minor defect. Also because we are not
specialists or because our inspection is essentially visual, latent defects could exist. Therefore, you should not
regard our inspection as conferring a guarantee or warranty. It does not. It is simply a report on the general
condition of a particular property at a given point in time. Furthermore, as a homeowner, you should expect
problems to occur. Roofs will leak, drain lines will become blocked, and components and systems will fail
without warning. For these reasons, you should take into consideration the age of the house and its
components and keep a comprehensive insurance policy current. If you have been provided with a home
protection policy, read it carefully. Such policies may only cover insignificant costs, such as that of rooter
service, and the representatives of some insurance companies may deny coverage on the grounds that a given
condition was preexisting or not covered because of a code violation or manufacture's defect. Therefore, you
should read such policies very carefully, and depend upon our company for any consultation that you may
need.
Thank you for taking the time to read this report, and call us if you have any questions or observations
whatsoever. We are always attempting to improve the quality of our service and our report, and we will
continue to adhere to the highest standards of the industry and to treat everyone with kindness, courtesy, and
respect.
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CONFIDENTIAL INSPECTION REPORT 1
GENERAL INFORMATION 2
SCOPE OF WORK 4
Foundation 5
Poured Concrete Basement 5
Exterior 7
Exterior Features 7
Siding 12
Grading and Drainage 15
Roof 15
Method of Evaluation 16
Composition Shingle 17
Wood Roof 17
Plumbing 20
Water Supply 21
Waste 21
Gas 22
Electrical 22
Main Electrical Panel 23
Garage 24
Garage Observations 24
Heat-A/C 25
Heat and AC - System 1 26
Fireplace 33
Hearth Room Fireplace 33
Basement Fireplace 35
Master Bedoom Fireplace 37
Interior 38
Interior Components 39
Stairs 39
WaterHeater 40
Water Heater(s) 40
Water Heater 2 41
Sump Pump 42
Sump Pump 42
Kitchen 42
Kitchen 42
Laundry 44
First Floor Laundry 44
Upper Hallway Laundry 45
Bathrooms 45
Master Bathroom 46
Half Bathroom 47
Basement Bathroom 47
Upper East Bathroom 48
Upper West Bathroom 48
Attic 49
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
_____________________________________________________________________________________________
Attic Observations 49
ASHI - STANDARDS OF PRACTICE 50
CERTIFICATIONS AND AFFILIATIONS 60
Illustrations 61
REPORT CONCLUSION 64
TABLE OF CONTENTS 67
_____________________________________________________________________________________________

Sample Home Inspection Report

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Sample Home Inspection Report

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Kansas City's "First Choice" for Professional Home Inspections

705-B SE Melody Lane # 199 Lee's Summit MO 64063

Inspection Address: 1234 Main St., Overland Park, KS 66224

Inspected by: Bill Fate - ASHI Certified Inspector 205241

This inspection report is available on the Internet

Poured Concrete Basement

Grading and Drainage

Heat and AC - System 1

Heat and AC - System 2

Heat and AC - System 3

First Floor Laundry

Upper East Bathroom

Upper West Bathroom

CONFIDENTIAL INSPECTION REPORT

Weather: Clear and Damp - Temperature at time of inspection: 70-80 Degrees

Inspected by: Bill Fate - ASHI Certified Inspector 205241

Doug Hord PE - ASHI Certified Inspector 114154

Client Information: John Doe

Buyer's Agent: Bash Group

Structure Type: Wood Frame

Structure Style: 3- Story

Structure Orientation: South

Estimated Year Built: 1992

People on Site At Time of Inspection: Buyer(s)

General Property Conditions

Report File: Sample Report

Poured Concrete Basement

Beams & Posts

Components and Conditions Needing Service

Sliding or French Style Glass Doors

Trees and Vegetation

OCS - No Expansion Joints and has Cracking - Continued

Grading and Drainage

General Wood Shake or Shingle Comments - Continued

Components and Conditions Needing Service

The wood roof needs to be cleaned to drain effectively - Continued

Components and Conditions Needing Service

With Flat-Roofed Sections

Flashings & Valleys

Main Electrical Panel

The residence is served by a 100 amp panel, located in the basement

Interior Cover Panel

Walls and Ceiling

The garage door opener(s) has no apparent deficiencies.

Heat and AC - System 1

Picture of Furnace - Continued

Components and Conditions Needing Service

Heat and AC - System 2

Heat and AC - System 3

Picture of Furnace(s) - Continued

AC Differential Temperature Readings

Hearth Room Fireplace

The framed chimney walls appear to be in acceptable condition - Continued

The firebox appears to be in acceptable condition - Continued

Master Bedoom Fireplace

Components and Conditions Needing Service

Picture of Kitchen - Continued

Maintenance Tips- Twice a Year: (If you mechanical abilities allow)

Gas Cook Top

First Floor Laundry

Upper Hallway Laundry

Sink Faucet Valves & Connectors Trap & Drain

Components and Conditions Needing Service

Upper East Bathroom