a.

To study product sampling and range finalization process for mens wear category in
Wrangler and identify the reasons for drop
b. To study the process of Road show

2 SAMPLING PROCESS FOR SHIRTS & KNITS:

PRODUCT START UP MEETING IN HONGKONG

TREND RESEARCH PRESENTATION

MILL WEEK
SHORT LIST OF FABRICS
MERCHANDISE & LINE PLAN
COLOR PALETTES
CAD INPUTS & SUBMISSION

SHIRTS- (LAB DIP/ DESKLOOM) APPROVAL

KNITS- YARN DYED, SOLID DYED FABRIC
ORDER
DOCKET HANDOVER
DOCKET COSTING
SAMPLE DELIVERY

COSTING & RANGE FINALISATION

ROADSHOW
CUSTOMER ORDER RECEIPT & COMPILE

SAMPLE HANDOVER
PRODUCTION AND DELIVERY

1. Product meeting:
Category heads along with designer schedule for meeting in Hongkong with various heads from
all over. This meeting soon helds when the season starts and discuss about the concept for

development and accordingly the planning is done.

2. Trend presentation:
Fashion trend forecasting resources help predict trends in the fashion industry. Fashion &
trend forecasting is the prediction of mood, behavior and buying habits of the consumer
at particular time of season. Each season trend forecast docket for wrangler has been
referred which is given to all designers. On the basis of it, certain themes are decided and
also includes various things:
a. Mood board
b. Inspiration board
c. Color board
d. Fabric board
e. Silhouette
f. textures
Designing team goes through fashion forecasting magazines and journals to look for
forecast of upcoming season. These include WGSN, forecast from hongkong and social
media sites where research about color, silhouettes and design elements are done.
Designers then refer through various fashion shows and ongoing events in media to spot
the trend. Hence the design team gets a head start how to incorporate the forecasts and
trends in their line to satisfy the customer needs and wants.Irrespective of the stages in
the design process there are certain factors which have to be dealt with before starting the
works. Some of these may be:
Identify the target market - The market that a firm is catering to is segregated on the
basis of gender, age, social and economic segment. Here the market is a group of people
or the consumers. Each market segment is going to have different requirements and
expectations from a design and all of these have to be satisfied by the designer, in order
to make it a success.
Maintaining an Identity for the brand - Every company has a specific look and caters
to a particular clientele. The price ranges are also fixed since generally they cater to a

specific target market. All this has to remain more or less constant so that the company
has a proper brand identity.
3. Mill week:
When certain vendors come from different places to showcase their fabrics for upcoming
season, and also here the designers, merchandisers and vendors have actual meet
regarding the fabrics and trims selection, it is called mill week.
4. Shortlist of fabrics:
Designers and merchandisers shortlist fabrics on basis of their color and story
development, also pricing is a factor. Three to four story are selected on the basis of their
colors certain details are noticed and considered for knits and woven
For ex: wrangler has their vendor as NSL , their team comes and showcases their fabric
for the season , designers makes a selection and takes swatches from him for certain
approval and merchandisers take a note of their prices and gives order later on that
swatch card which has details of serial number and fabric type.
5. Merchandise & line plan:

TOPS/BO
TTOMS

CATE
GORY

COLLE
CTION

MRP

NO. OF
OPTIONS IN
SS15

OTB
OPTIONS IN
SS15

DEPTH
IN SS16

CONTRI
BUTION

It includes the planning, acquisition, analysis, handling and control of merchandise.

6. Cad inputs & submission:
According to the line plan, the designers make their collection and categorize each
section. CAD designs helps to show prototype and makes it easier for the dsigner to make
a change before producing the design, according to the number of options designs are
made in appropriate lead time by designers. It is divided into three sections where few
designs are submitted in one phase taking lead time of around 15 days, second phase
more 15 days and then again third part in other 15 days, certain reviews are taken from
key partners meet and distributor meet about the designs and if appropriate changes are
made accordingly.
7. After the CAD designs are made, the designs are sent for development that is proto
sample and fit sample , the design of a style or a line or to present garment structure and
fit both together is made . PP sample is developed to know what they are going to add in
terms of actual fabrics, trims and accessories, for shirts it is sent for labdip approval and
knits yarn dying and then design is finalized and ahead approved by merchandiser in
terms of range and costing
8. Docket handover:
CAD design dockets are made and along with that specification for each style has been given
which includes:

a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.
i.
j.

Style number
Season
Vendor details
Fabric details
Color combo
Trim details
Wash care label
Tags
Packing details
Thread details

9. Docket costing:
It is kind of format used for costing done by the sourcing team, certain costs are given to
the merchandisers and accordingly costing is done.certain details for knits are included
in docket cost :
a. Yarn
b. Knitting
c. Trim knitting
d. Dyeing
e. All over print
f. Compacting & finishing
g. Process loss
h. Fabric total cost and body consumption
i. Total trim cost
j. Forwarding
k. Garment rejection%
According to the vendors prices certain docket cost are decided by sourcing team and
then given to merchandisers for final MRP costing
10. Dockets prepared and sent to the factory for further processes, also after samples
developed sent to the office for final review by merchandisers and designers with the help
of sourcing team the designers get the samples developed, these are known as
development samples. The aim of these look is for look finalization rather than fit hence
appearance of the garment is made the utmost importance. Samples are made in made in
the base size of M only.
11. Costing & Range finalization:
Range finalization is the selection of the final line by category team which includes head
and designer, which is further taken ahead for the road show. Range is selected keeping
on the basis of certain factors:
a. Previous year season line
b. Competitors offering
c. Sales review of the last season
d. Preview season best selling samples

e. Also on the planning options, total planned quantity , average depth per style, number
of options in the category and total new styles
f. MRP
It refers to the selection of merchandise mix during range presentation. Short listing of
samples are done by designers and then reviewed to the category head and sales team on
the basis of their review and comments changes are made, hence the line is finalized. It
is the resultant of all the research work and analysis done by the design team and the
merchandisers, which finalize their line for upcoming season.
12. Road show:
Roadshow connects people to brand. This is done by creating fashion show for seasons
collections, presenting it though visual merchandising where promotion of merchandise
is displayed.
1. Fashion show
2. Visual merchandising
3. Live brand experience
13. Customer order receipt and compile:
Order form format
S.N
o.

Style
Code

Collect
ion

Style
Name

Fabric

Colo
ur

F
it

Slee
ves

MR
P

Mon
th

After the road show, the order placed at road show is compiled and accordingly the
production is set by merchandisers and planned.
For example order placed for shoppers
Row
Labels
T-Shirts
WRTS43
97
WRTS43
98
WRTS44
58
WRTS44
64
WRTS44
65
WRTS45
65
WRTS45
69

Order qty
1227
285
121
249
87
94
116
275

Grand
Total

1227

14. Once the sample is handed to vendors, the production is online there are certain sample
approval requirements like original sample is submitted to the technical team ,QC report
of the vendor, it should clearly mention the style number, season, vendor name, type of
sample, rejected sample if it is a revised sample and also mentioned sample is in M size.
Once production is online, few pieces is taken out in the middle of the production.
Production pieces are sent to assistant as TOP sample. All buyers does not asked for TOP
sample. Purpose is to cross-check whether factory is following PP sample specification or
not. When style is being finished and packed for shipment, 2-3 finished and packed
pieces with all packing details are kept for future reference. Shipment sample is kept by
factory and merchant.

4.3 DENIM
Denim fabric can be defined as warp faced twill fabric made from 100% cotton containing heavy
weight indigo dyed warp yarn and undyed weft yarn. The count of the yarn used varies between
6 s to 12 s. Denim garments have also formed a significant part of the apparel export basket from
India. The stone washed effect is more popular abrasion effect on the garment obtained by
locally removing the surface bound indigo dye. The garment washing plays an important role to
provide fashion and functionally elements. In garment washing the seams, waist band, pockets
etc can be given different effect. The process, however face several problem and hence the need
to use the right chemicals in denim garment processing is very essential
DENIM WASHES ARE OF TWO TYPES:
1. Mechanical washes
Stone wash : In the process of stone washing, freshly dyed jeans are loaded into large washing
machines and tumbled with pumice stones to achieve a soft hand and desirable look.
Variations in composition, hardness, size shape and porosity make these stones multifunctional.
The process is quite expensive and requires high capital investment.
Pumice stones give the additional effect of a faded or worn look as it abrades the surface of the
jeans like sandpaper, removing some dye particles from the surfaces of the yarn
Micro sanding : are 3 ways for this technique:
SAND BLASTING
Sand blasting technique is based on blasting an abrasive material in granular, powdered
or other form through a nozzle at very high speed and pressure onto specific areas of the
garment surface to be treated to give the desired distressed/ abraded/used look.

It is purely mechanical process, not using any chemicals.

It is a water free process therefore no drying required.

Variety of distressed or abraded looks possible.
Any number of designs could be created by special techniques.
Machine sanding

Hand sanding or hand brushing

OTHER MECHANICAL WASHING

Whiskering
Shot gun denim
Water jet fading
Super stone wash
Ice wash
Thermo denim
Laser technology finish

. 2. Chemical washes
Denim bleaching: In this process a strong oxidative bleaching agent such as sodium
hypochlorite or KMnO4 is added during the washing with or without stone addition.
Discoloration produced is usually more apparent depending on strength of the bleach liquor
quantity, temperature and treatment time.
It is preferable to have strong bleach with short treatment time.
Care should be taken for the bleached goods so that they should be adequately antichlored or
after washed with peroxide to minimize yellowing. Materials should be carefully sorted before
processing for color uniformity.
Enzyme wash :
It is environmentally friendly wash. It involves the Application of organic enzymes that eat
away at the fabric, i.e. the cellulose.
When the desired color is achieved, the enzymes can be stopped by changing the alkalinity of
the bath or its temperature. Post treatment includes final rinsing and softening cycle. The
effects produced by the cellulose enzyme are--1. Use of cellulase making the seams, hems, and pockets more noticeable
2. Salt pepper effect is color contrast effect.
3. Faded garment with acid cellulase enzyme provides less color contrast in proportion to
garment washed with neutral cellulase enzymes.

Acid wash: It is done by tumbling the garments with pumice stones presoaked in a solution of
sodium hypochlorite or potassium permanganate for localized bleaching resulting in a non
uniform sharp blue/white contrast.
In this wash the color contrast of the denim fabric can be enhanced by optical brightening. The
advantage of this process is that it saves water as addition of water is not required

SAMPLING PROCESS FOR DENIMS:

PRODUCT START UP MEETING IN HONGKONG

TREND RESEARCH PRESENTATION

MILL WEEK

SHORT LIST OF FABRICS

MERCHANDISE & LINE PLAN

COLOR PALETTES

WASH DEVELOPMENT

NEW TRIM DEVELOPMENT

WASH DEVELOPMENT DIRECTION

WASH DEVELOPMENT WITH COSTING

DOCKET COSTING

DOCKET HANDOVER

SAMPLE DELIVERY

COSTING & RANGE FINALIZATION

ROADSHOW

CUSTOMER ORDER RECEIPT & COMPILE

SAMPLE HANDOVER MEET

PRODUCTION & DELIVERY

4.4 RANGE FINALISATION PROCESS

SHORTLISTING OF
SAMPLES
FIRST REVIEW OF
SAMPLE

PHOTOSHOOT FOR
SAMPLES

SECOND ROUND OF
SHORTLISTING BY DESIGNERS

FINALIZING THE LINE

REVIEW OF SAMPLES BY PRODUCT

TEAM

SAMPLE REVIEW BY SALES TEAM

ORDER FORM

MUST BUY OPTION

CATALOGUE FINALISATION

ROADSHOW
Range finalization is the selection of the final line by category team which includes head and
designer, which is further taken ahead for the road show. Range is selected keeping on the basis
of certain factors:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.

Previous year season line

Competitors offering
Sales review of the last season
Preview season best selling samples
Also on the planning options, total planned quantity , average depth per style, number
of options in the category and total new styles
f. MRP

It refers to the selection of merchandise mix during range presentation. Short listing of samples
are done by designers and then reviewed to the category head and sales team on the basis of their
review and comments changes are made, hence the line is finalized. It is the resultant of all the
research work and analysis done by the design team and the merchandisers, which finalize their
line for upcoming season.
1. Short listing of samples:
According to product plan details, there are number of options planned, options taken for road
show and dropped samples which are not taken for road show. Shortlisting of samples is also
done taking into consideration MRP, style, multiple factor and commercial value. During the
Range Finalization process excess amount of Sample has been dropped due to various reason
It has been a tough task in finalizing the range in few categories due to various reasons:
a.
b.
c.
d.
e.
f.
g.
h.

Artwork
Base fabric
Construction
Styling details
Cost
Excess options
Late delivery
Not received

2. First review of sample:

After the short listing of samples is done, the samples are reviewed in key partners meet where
the key customers are called for review of product and knowing their comments and feedback on
the collection. Comments are noted and if possible the designers make changes on the basis of the
style if possible. Therefore the first review is also done on basis of MRP, if the product is worth
the price.
3. Photo shoot of samples:
Depending on the requirement the Marketing team gets the photo shoot done, asked by vendors.
Certain shoots are done:
a. Road show samples
b. Key products sample shoot
c. Print media shoot sample
d. Catalogue shoot
e. Online campaign shoot
4. Second round of short listing:
According to the key customers feedback the designers sort the samples and make changes and
set the whole collection according to the story and delivery options that are D1 and D2. Suppose
for season spring summer, D1 has delivery options for motnh of January and February, D2 has
delivery options for month of March and April.
5. After the second round of short listing the designers considering the story line and color story
arrange the whole sequence and merchandisers set the MRP value.

6. The whole sequence is present to the product team head and sales team head. They give their
reviews on it keeping certain factors in mind. Three season data has been reviewed, what all
styles have been doing well and what not, any color preference or a size selling more than others
is studied. if any size is selling more across all the seasons, the size ratio is changed. Also through
sell through analysis best sellers are identified which helps them to decide if appropriate style
should be considered for the season.
Product team head also checks trend review , which gives data about what all colors and styles are
selling which can be used to judge the trend movement. This further helps in identifying the best
hot selling colors and design elements that can be incorporated and matched with upcoming
collection.

TOTAL

XL

MONTH

MRP

SLEEVES

FIT

COLOR

FABRIC

STYLE NAME

COLLECTION

STYLE CODE

S.NO

7. Order form:
The vendors are given order sheet to fill the order quantity which has the following details:

8. Must buy option:

Merchandise which are must buy for all is known as must buy option for the season. Minimum
quantity or order of one size set is must in this case.
9. Catalogue finalization
Once the must buys are finalized,the samples which are shoot are presented in catalogue form
which also includes:
a. Style code
b. Style name
c. Color
d. Fabric details
e. Fit
f. Sleeves
g. Size
h. MRP
i. Offering month
10. Road show:

Road show connects people to brand.

This is done by creating fashion show for seasons collections, presenting it though visual
merchandising and where promotion of merchandise is displayed through various way:
a. Fashion show
b. Visual merchandising
c. Live brand experience

d. Vm display clearly states about the story line wheels and waves for s/s 16
which was done to promote the merchandise and present the color story
e. Wrangler india launched a competition name true wanderer in the summers
aimed at bike lovers and enthusiast. true Wanderer is also an attempt from
Wrangler India in creating a community for adventure-seeking bikers.

f.

g. Wrangler India is utilising social media platforms to drive traffic to its biking
adventure competition, True Wanderer 2.0

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