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KOREAN
CUISINE
MAKES WAVES
www.korea.net
ISSN: 2005-2162
PRELUDE
CONTENTS
MARCH 2010 VOL. 6 NO. 3
MY KOREA 32 GLOBAL KOREA 40
Is Korea heaven on Earth for shopa- Korea is becoming more involved with
holics? The shopping season in Western overseas relief aid. From the government
COVER STORY 04 PEN & BRUSH 16 PEOPLE 20 countries doesn’t begin till the winter holi- to civil groups, the nation is increasing its
Discovering a nation’s cuisine means It’s been 46 years since poet Kim Cho-hye Korean chaehwa, or handmade silk flow- days, but here in Korea, you can find mid- efforts to help less fortunate countries.
more than just eating the food. As Korean first made her debut. Her prolific body of ers, encapsulate the essence of the pure night shopping year-round.
dishes gain an acclaim, truly appreciating work is best described by the concepts of beauty that communicates with nature.
this unique fare requires a closer look. stillness, moderation and contemplation. Hwang Su-ro has spent half a century ded-
icated to this art.
E-MAIL webmaster@korea.net
www.korea.net
COVER STORY
Topic Photo
Lee Dong-chun (opposite above, above); Han Sang-mooh (right); Topic Photo (opposite below)
Kimchi is one of the principle fermented The Korean government has deemed the years from 2010 to 2012 as a “Visit Korean restaurants anymore, as their tastes make them popular with palates on all Soy sauce, gochujang and soybean paste are
dishes of Korean food (above). Jangajji, fer- made from bricks of ground fermented soy-
mented in soy sauce or gochujang, are also
Korea” period. What are the must-eat dishes to sample at the numerous events continents. Sick of eating processed food and quick bites in between meals, peo- beans (above). Salted shrimp and fish are
kinds of “slow food” (below). taking place during this period in the country? It can be daunting to see just how ple all over the world are turning their attention to “slow food” (as opposed to fast matured in Korean traditional pots (below).
many menus can hold, so a recommendation or two from those in the know can food). That’s where kimchi and other fermented foods come in, as well as Korean
really help. A survey by a Korean newspaper last year found that foreign residents barbecue, pizzas and chicken soups, all of which are becoming recognized globally.
in Korea enjoyed bulgogi (barbecued beef) best, followed by galbi (grilled short As Korean foods take up more space on people’s tables, and people give them a
ribs), and bibimbap (rice mixed with meat and vegetables). closer look, the subtleties of the dishes will inevitably be revealed.
Recently, Korea’s Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism (MCST) and the
Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries (MIFAFF) conducted a survey SLOW AND STEADY Visit a Korean’s home and you’re sure to come across a home
of people’s favorite dishes at Korean restaurants overseas, and the following, in appliance unique to this part of the world: the kimchi fridge. Koreans have a regular
order, were the top 10: kimchi (and kimchi-jjigae), bibimbap, hanjeongsik (a tradi- refrigerator to keep their food cool and another one to store their kimchi.
tional, full-course Korean meal), galbi, bulgogi, samgyeopsal (sliced pork belly), Traditionally, Koreans made kimchi in the autumn and buried it underground to let
samgyetang (ginseng and chicken soup), naengmyeon (chilled buckwheat noodles), it ferment. These days, however, the majority of Koreans live in apartment build-
haemul-pajeon (seafood and green onion pancakes) and tteok (rice cakes). This ings and do not have a yard in which to bury their kimchi. Thus, the birth of the kim-
would suggest, then, that it’s high time people put aside their fear of unknown chi refrigerator, which recreates conditions similar to those underground, maintain-
dishes and embraced new flavors. ing an average temperature of 1C.
Interestingly enough, those top 10 Korean dishes are not solely confined to Kimchi is easily the most famous of fermented Korean food. Though cabbage is
KOREA KOREA
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06 2010 2010 07
the most well known variety, kimchi made with radishes or cucumbers are also Samgyetang is one of popular healthy food
in Korea, especially in summer (opposite).
popular, all of which use the formula of mixing salt, red pepper flakes, crushed gar- Tteok is made of rice, nuts, herbs and even
lic, green onions, ginger, soy sauce and fermented fish together. Fermented kimchi some fruits that make it highly nuturitious
(above). Naengmyeon is also a popular dish
is healthy and nutritious, as it contains a wide range of vitamins. for its refreshing cool broth (below).
Other Korean fermented foods such as soybean paste, gochujang (red pepper
paste) and soy sauce have been thrust into the spotlight as the perfect slow foods.
The history of the term dates back to 1986, when the international slow food
movement got its start in Italy. The message of the movement was to promote a
return to a traditional diet. Fed up with fast and instant foods, people who used to
be obsessed with speed and convenience are now returning to more natural ingre-
dients that agree with the human body. “The slow food movement has led to a
decline in American fast food, which in turn has given way to emerging slow food
from Asia,” says Jeong Hye-gyeong, a professor at Hoseo University. “New trends
have seen healthier food finding its way onto the tables of people around the
Topic Photo
world. In the near future, healthy, eco-friendly foods will be the norm.”
There is no doubt that fermented foods have been a part of diets in both the
East and West for millennia. Long ago, Western cultures developed wines, beers,
KOREA
MARCH
2010 09
cheeses and yogurts as their own healthy fermented food products. But when it toasted sesame seeds, ginger, pepper and sesame oil. It is then fried in a pan
comes to things that are “slow and patient,” nothing quite matches the variety of before serving. Galbi, or sliced short ribs, is marinated in soy sauce, sesame oil,
Korean cuisine. “There’s nothing out there like Korean food,” insists Jeong. “We garlic, green onions and pear. However, it’s different from bulgogi in that it’s
have slow food like no one else. Korean soy sauces and soybean pastes are usual- grilled over a charcoal fire or braised. Additionally, the seasoning goes deep into
ly preserved at least one year before they’re consumed, with some aged as long as the meat’s tissue, suffusing it with the uniquely original smells and flavors of
60 years. There aren’t a lot of people who can wait that long. Koreans, however, Korean cuisine. And don’t forget about the grilled fatback of samgyeopsal, which
embody slow food.” reminds many of unsmoked bacon and is also cooked in its own way. Koreans grill
These “slow” fermented ingredients are a fundamental part of the national cui- the slices of pork belly on a tabletop grill before wrapping it with an assortment of
sine — not merely an afterthought. Most meals and side dishes include a ferment- vegetables.
ed ingredient. Among stews, kimchi-jjigae (kimchi stew) and doenjang-jjigae (fer- Samgyetang is a traditional Korean meal eaten by many to beat the heat of sum-
mented soybean paste stew) are popular. When people make guk, a basic Korean mer. Similar to the broth of chicken noodle soup, samgyetang’s health benefits are
soup, with kimchi or soybean paste, salt and soy sauce are added to season it as unparalleled. After removing its innards, the chicken is stuffed with glutinous rice,
well. Then there’s bibimbap, which would not be complete without gochujang. garlic, and jujubes and then boiled for hours. Ginseng, that mysterious root whose
Essentially, if you sit down to have a traditional Korean meal, it would be nearly positive effects on the human body are still being uncovered to this day, is also
impossible to avoid all the fermented foods present on the table. Korean food is, added, making samgyetang as much a tonic as a delicious meal. Haemul-pajeon,
fundamentally, a hodgepodge of slow foods. which resembles a pizza or pancake in appearance, is made by adding oysters,
squid and clams to a mixture of chopped green onions, hot peppers and flour
UNIVERSAL TRAITS The top 10 Korean foods which non-natives like most have dough. It is then fried on a pan and eaten while still hot.
more in common than just fermentation. The ingredients that go into the dishes Korean traditional rice cakes, tteok, are made by steaming pounded or glutinous
and how they’re made are fairly universal, as it’s common to find barbecue, pizzas, rice. Seasoning it with nuts, fruits and herbs makes it highly nutritious. Then there
Some meat dishes are cooked directly on a soups and noodles in dishes from other countries. Beef and pork are universal are all the different noodles, which come in a whole slew of shapes and sizes: the Bibimbap is a combination of rice, vegeta-
tabletop grill just before eating (above). bles, meat and gochujang. It is also one of
Galbijjim is a steamed beef dish marinated ingredients, save those nations which refrain from incorporating them in their cui- pasta of Italy, the rice noodles of Vietnam, the udon of Japan and the chow mein of the well-known Korean food overseas.
with soy sauce and seasonings (below). sine for religious reasons. Barbecued foods and steak are popular around the China. Of the many kinds of Korean noodles, naengmyeon, buckwheat noodles sea-
world, so bulgogi, galbi, and samgyeopsal soned with sliced cucumbers, radishes and pears, and topped with a boiled egg in
have become popular with people in a chilled broth of beef or chicken, is one of the most popular.
other countries. People over-
seas enjoy Korean meat dish- SEEDS OF GLOBALIZATION A recent survey found that 60 percent of foreign resi-
es not just for their familiar dents in Korea believe Korean food has the potential to go global. One Japanese
ingredients, but for the housewife loves kimchi so much she not only has a kimchi fridge but makes her
original recipes used to own kimchi! Perhaps the globalization of Korean food has already begun. The
Han Sang-mooh (opposite below); Topic Photo (opposite above, right above)
prepare the food. Korean government aims at accelerating the further globalization of the national
As Professor Jeong cuisine. Indeed, the government’s bold new goal is to make the domestic fare one
explains, “Western meat of the world’s five most favorite foods within a decade, and increase the number of
dishes are simple, served Korean restaurants around the world from its present number, 10,000, to 40,000.
rare, medium or well-done. In May 2009, the government formed a “Korean Cuisine to the World” group,
That’s it. However, Korean meat and a Korean Cuisine Foundation is in the works as well. Related government agen-
dishes agree with foreign cies including the Ministry of Culture, Sports and Tourism have vowed to cooperate
palates because of the many with civic groups to nurture the brand of Korean food.
unique ways in which they’re del- Behind this sweeping culinary movement lie the universal traits of the cuisine
icately prepared.” and its potential to become globally recognized. It is only a matter of time before
Bulgogi is made by taking thin the seeds of Korean food grow into a strong, global tree. With an open mind to new
slices of sirloin or other cuts of beef cultures and an interest in following a healthy diet, people are being encouraged to
and marinating it in a mixture of soy join this movement to make this unique food more popular and accessible in every
sauce, sugar, green onions, garlic, corner of the world.
KOREA KOREA
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10 2010 2010 11
COVER STORY
KOREA KOREA
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12 2010 2010 13
COVER STORY
Makgeolli is a traditional alcoholic beverage in Korea, much it’s lighter than other drinks [tequila, rum or whiskey], and
like wine in France or sake in Japan. It is made by fermenting a goes down easy,” he says. “It smells fresh and its fruity taste
mixture of boiled rice and water with yeast. makes it feel like I’m drinking a fruit wine.”
There are several reasons makgeolli has become more pop- Along with its popularity, side dishes that are well-matched
ular in Korea than other types of rice wine. For one, it has been with the drink are turning heads, too. For time immemorial a
loved across the country since the Goryeo Dynasty that began countless number of dishes have competed with each other,
th
in the 10 century. In its unfiltered form and served with its vying for the title of the best side dish complement to makgeol-
natural sediment after being stirred, it was not just an alco- li. Today, the most popular — and affordable — is probably
holic beverage but a filling refreshment. Originally popular with pajeon, especially Dongnae-pajeon, a Korean “pancake” from
farmers, it earned the nickname nongju, or “farmers’ liquor.” Busan that is made of dough with spring onions, seafood and
A popular drink for years, makgeolli eventually fell out of eggs. With its melange of balanced ingredients, it boasts a
favor with people during the Japanese colonial era (1910- flavor that goes well with the rice wine.
1945). Because of food shortages, there was not enough rice Another good accompaniment is a specialty of the Jeolla-do
to eat, let alone enough to produce alcohol. As a result, the Province called hongeo-samhap, a three-layered dish consisting
government restricted the making of rice wine and the once of cooled fermented thornback ray (or skate), steamed pork
ubiquitous makgeolli seemed to fade into history. But as rice and well fermented kimchi. The thornback has a unique burn-
production increased, people started to miss the traditional ing taste from ammonia, though it becomes milder when eaten
drink, and it began its return to the spotlight. with pork and kimchi. In addition, sashimi chomuchim, made
Today, in a world where health and well-being are at the fore- with fresh fish, spiced with vinegar and hot pepper bean paste,
front of many people’s minds, makgeolli is the perfect fit. is paired with the beverage. Kim Ok-sim, the owner of a bar
Usually around 6.5 percent alcohol by volume, it’s lighter in named Gounnim in Seoul says it is the best side dish, claiming
alcohol content than other alcoholic beverages like soju (a “Its sweet and sour taste goes well with makgeolli.”
local grog) and wine. The sediment, which gives it a milky, off- The makgeolli craze is sure to be around for a while. Even
white color, is rich in nutrients such as lactobacilli, protein, the Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries
amino acids and vitamins. Interestingly, makgeolli’s popularity announced last year it would give full support by subsidizing
extends beyond the borders of Korea. In Japan, large depart- companies that make makgeolli with freshly harvested rice.
ment stores like Takashimaya sell makgeolli and idong makge- The popular drink was even served during a “Korea Night”
olli, makgeolli cocktails, as well as other fusion varieties. event at the Davos World Economic Forum in Switzerland.
Koreans have long appreciated makgeolli for its taste and
THE BEST WAYS TO DRINK MAKGEOLLI William Lawton health benefits. Will it, however, be able to gain popularity
MAKGEOLLI: A TRADITIONAL DRINK Cromwell, an American from Connecticut who has been living in
Seoul for a year and half, loves makgeolli. “I like it because
overseas? It will certainly be interesting to see how makgeolli
fares globally in 2010.
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
14 2010 2010 15
PEN & BRUSH
ANGUISH AND
JOY FOR
Life
Sometimes her poems have a generous, maternal love full of a
spring-like vitality, while at other times they are akin to a field of
reeds, smeared in the bleak loneliness of late fall. The work of Kim
Cho-hye, who has lived her entire life as a poet, are just like her
experiences: pure and straight as an arrow bent only by the wind,
always asking an endless series of questions for self-reflection.
by Oh Kyong-yon
It has now been 46 years since Kim made her debut as a poet. The prolific writer has also written two essays, “To Find a
Since her first pieces were published in Hyundae Munhak Beam of Light in Life” and “Hurting Together, Loving in
magazine in 1964, she has steadily, unceasingly brought out Company,” both published in the early 1990s. However, Kim
such works as “A Drifting Star,” “Saranggut 1” (and subse- is truly a poet at heart and embeds her affection for the
quent volumes 2 and 3), “Mother,” and “Island.” “Saranggut” medium even in prose.
was even reprinted in middle school Korean language text- In one of her collections, the writer declares that “poets go
books, while “Mother” was introduced to European readers through pain instinctively — they ignite themselves and ignite
through translated French texts, which brought her global others as well. Love, whether it contains a universal character
acclaim as the poet who expressively captured Korean senti- or a special one, has been an important element in life for
ment and culture. me.” In the end, she expresses her unmatched affinity for
Kim is the recipient of many renowned literary awards, poems, concluding, “That is prosody. What more can you
including the Society of Korean Poets Award and the Korean want besides poems?”
Literary Award, which is presented annually by the Korean Last year, she chose 100 works from her 10 poetry collec-
Kim Cho-hye Writers’ Association to remarkable domestic literary works. tions, and bound them into a special collection of selected
KOREA
MARCH
2010 17
poems. The book was printed on hanji (traditional Korean describes the goals of her world of poetry. The author prophets (who have a keen insight into life), and pioneers of
paper), while the whole process of typesetting, printing and explains that, in poetry, in which the conciseness of language history (who write with great responsibility).” A true portrait
bookbinding were completed manually. A limited edition of is beauty, you must expand blank space to the fullest and dis- of a poet is one who has both the virtues of a prophet and a
1,000 copies were printed, creating a rare and meaningful seminate the echoes of language into that void. pioneer. “Writing poems must spring from a sense of respon-
masterpiece. Selecting pieces from her countless works, span- In Korean, there is a proverb that says “Every finger hurts sibility,” she says — for oneself, for humanity. “The object of
ning more than 40 years, proved to be quite the challenge. Yet, when you bite all 10” which refers to the fact that, regardless poetry is not to decorate the poet’s personal sentiments, it is
“publishing the selected book of poetry was an unavoidable of the number of their children, each and every child is an expression of true responsibility for life.”
task,” Kim says, “The most important criteria for selection important to all parents. To poets, every poem is as valuable For her, Kim defines poetry as “a second nature,” meaning
were that the poems were ones that had to be easily under- as a child, but often inquisitive readers ask Kim to divulge that, just as water and wind must flow, her poems must also
stood by readers, and that they contained the inspiration of what her favorite work is. Though under the premise that all be completed in an unmanufactured, natural way. And, as a
the writer in a natural way.” works are important to her, she chose “Mother” as the work poet, she hopes that every person’s soul can be seeped with
that she especially treasures. “My mother provided me with poetry.
THE VALUE OF WORDS “Poems are the most valuable things the foundation to concentrate on literature, and taught me She confesses: when she sees her poem on the wall of a
in my life, something that I have dedicated all my efforts to,” the meaning of sacrifice and love. Though it has now been country-side cafe, or when she meets someone by chance
Kim says when asked what meaning poetry holds for her. over 40 years since she passed away, my mother still vividly who is able to recite her poems, she is energized “as if buds
Though the woman is now a veteran, she says she has lived all remains in my soul, in my works.” are sprouting from my body.” But not for a sense of egotism,
her life pondering about the definition of a well-written it’s more that meeting her readers is like sharing souls beyond
poem. Writing has caused her internal conflict and deviation, POEMS: A SECOND NATURE When asked abstractly about the time and space. To Kim, it’s not about living inwardly, alone.
but Kim stresses that she never questioned or became dis- existential value of poets in real life, Kim says that writing is a “Through my works, I hope to continually share the various
heartened about becoming a poet. She instead chose to disci- “painful but joyful task.” She continues, “Poets must be sentiments that I have experienced in my life.”
pline herself to stand strong and says she will always continue
with her efforts. “Of course, the creative process itself is very
painful and difficult. But whenever I receive a collection of
my poems in my hands after I endure that process, I experi-
ence an inexpressible joy. That is probably the biggest happi-
ness for poets.”
“Saranggut,” composed of 183 poems, is a large series of MOTHER (MÈRE) SARANGGUT (CENT PÉTALES
poems compiled into three volumes. Kim says she chose the > Language French D’AMOUR)
> Publisher L’Harmattan (Paris, France) > Language French
title by combining the Korean word for love (“sarang”) with > Published year 1995 > Publisher L’Harmattan (Paris, France)
the Korean shamanic ritual called “gut.” Love, she says, is a > Published year 1998
universal theme and the most fundamental power, while gut One body, / but separated / into different bodies.
Give painfully, gain lacking / did not know we would be sepa- I know you do not come to me, / not because you do
is a form of Korean shamanism and traditional seasonal cus- rated. not wish to meet, / but because you fear/ leaving.
tom. The practice, which has its roots in ancient Korean his-
tory, holds rituals for auspicious events or ill omens depend- Only having experienced bitter things / Mother cannot feel Though you know / my tears are for you,
bitterness any more. / Only familiar with sweet things, / the you pretend not to know and hide;
ing on the shamanistic religion. It is an element of Korean child does not recognize sweetness. I know it is because of the flame / that you cannot
culture that symbolizes all acts of conflict in the Korean throw away / or win. / Being near / causes pain,
lifestyle. When in love, people are in the most pure, passion- To the beginning / return to one body, but sending you away / is a bigger pain.
switch roles, / be born again.
ate and intense state; when a shaman holds a service and is I know how to love, / living, missing you.
possessed by spirits, it is a moment of the purest passion and “Mother,” a representative piece by Kim Even when two hearts scrape against each other.
intensity. Inspired by these paralleling ideas, Kim combined along with “Saranggut,” is a master-
piece in which the poet’s personal feel- They know how to weave together love,
the two words for her collection. ings are embedded. The poem speaks a love they do not take, because it is what they want.
Critics say her works are mere symbols of “style” ideas, softly of a longing for her mother and
such as “moderati,” “blankness,” and “contemplation.” To this, regrets being undutiful as a daughter. The piece “Saranggut 1” was published in the book
“To me, my mother was like a God, an of the same title in 1985. Kim declares that “All the
Kim says, “It is the instinct of poets to express many things absolute existence in all aspects of my problems that arise among human beings, be they
Kim Cho-hye
with just a few words.” She adds that “Some say that literature life,” Kim says. She cried so much while between friends, relationships with the opposite sex,
is a product of symbols and omissions — but the symbols and writing this piece that she suffered from or parent-child relationships, there is nothing that
exhaustion after completion. cannot be solved with love.”
omissions in poems must be effectively expressed,” which
KOREA KOREA
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18 2010 2010 19
PEOPLE
A TIMELESS
ART
IN FULL
BLOOM
You’ve probably heard the word before: hanok. But these tradi-
tional Korean houses, which are often associated with history
long past, were the popular form of residence until as late as the
1970s. But what made this structure, with its simple design and
form, last through the centuries and root itself as an integral part
of life here? KOREA travels to discover the subtle philosophies of
the lives and people inside, seeking to root out the truth behind
the belying minimalism. by Ines Min | photographs by Park Jung-ro
ht ma
g
dn
i
midn
ess
REDEFINED
In my corner of small-town Canada, shopaholics and fash-
ionistas define shopping as a hobby, a pastime and, in some
cases, a lifestyle. Inarguably, no season is more sacred than
the weeks preceding Christmas, during which bargain
event slogans brandish local newspaper headlines. As a
notoriously last-minute shopper in college, with a jam-
packed class schedule and frugal budget, I recall awaiting
the annual event known as “Midnight Madness,” a solitary As it happens, on a chilly Wednesday evening I found myself suddenly in need
of American two-dollar bills framed in glass, a hammer, some live eels, Shaun
shopping extravaganza that typically lasted from 8pm to
Cassidy on vinyl and a neon-pink faux-fur shawl. Well, not really in need, but
midnight. Equipped with comfortable shoes for rushing, had those purchases actually been necessary, I knew I would be able to find
credit cards and shopping lists, my fellow consumers and I each and every one at Seoul’s oldest market, Namdaemun, named after the
would line up outside the town’s modest one-story shop- iconic south gate of the formerly-walled city. Eagerly skipping past the neon-
lit tiger honoring the Lunar New Year, I embraced the labyrinth of alleys: from
ping mall an hour in advance just to get the goods. Since the crisp market air to the strong aroma of roasted silkworm larvae accosting
my arrival in Seoul in 2002, however, “Midnight Madness” my nostrils. It’s been said that shoppers can find everything under the sun at
has taken on an entirely different meaning. Namdaemun Market “except nuclear weapons and tanks,” so I was keen on
the prospect of emptying my bank account and testing out the bold claim.
Surely there was something that belonged in my clutches.
I armed myself with comfortable walking shoes, as the size of Namdaemun
rivals that of my entire suburban hometown. Turning left at the first narrow
alley, I began to understand what I was getting myself into. It was an attack on
KOREA KOREA
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32 2010 2010 33
the senses: vendors packed themselves closer and closer together, grills sizzled, Several tourist information booths in and around Namdaemun Market are
feet shuffled, and animated speech and laughter grew louder. Although the helpful in keeping track of where you are in relation to the subway, but they
crowd was largely Korean, there was a notable modicum of international faces close at 6pm and, if you want to know what is sold in the popular arcades, you
and tongues. Locals swarmed around stalls for late night eats, paired with bot- will have to go in to find out. In my opinion, exploration is the only way one
tles of the domestic beer. Rows of pig’s feet, freshly plucked chickens, mam- should tackle the maze-like Namdaemun. After all, what is madness without a
moth-sized oysters, live seafood, sundae (Korean blood sausage), the fiery but little mystery? As the evening progresses to the midnight hour, I make my way
irresistible dumplings known as tteokbokki, and a popular glass noodle dish to the markets of Dongdaemun, which is within walking distance of
called japchae, are in high demand. I immediately detoured to pick up a din- Hoehyeon Station, a common access point to Namdaemun proper. This is
ner-plate sized kimchijeon, a spicy, pancake-like goodie that can be described where the hardcore shoppers do their greatest damage and the action lasts
as a “kimchi pizza,” comfort food for late night winter wandering. until the sun rises. As a fashion district where traditional markets and tower-
Having recharged my batteries, I paused at a wide intersection to regain my ing, modern shopping malls sit side by side, Dongdaemun boasts an estimat-
bearings. Around me, in no particular order, is: an optical shop (cheap glasses ed 30,000 shops. Due to its vastness, it’s tough to know where to begin.
in an hour); a ginseng store with glass jars containing specimens of the stimu- I boldly venture into “Pyounghwa Market,” an enormous, multistory com-
lating plant that bring to mind the shelves of a mad scientist’s lab; a souvenir plex buzzing with activity. The market operates from 9pm until 6am and
shop featuring child-sized hanbok, traditional Korean clothing, embroidered focuses on apparel for middle-aged women. I’m greeted by colorful displays
with Mashimaro, Pucca and other pop culture characters; and a shop selling of umbrellas, earrings, scarves, and other items that appeal to the female
Ed Hardy knock-offs. Another 50m and it’s an assortment of blinking wind- demographic. While digging through a promising array of blouses, I’m polite-
up toys, hats of every style imaginable, a TonyMoly makeup franchise and two ly informed that there are no dressing rooms, no refunds, and to make my
side-by-side shops selling soccer jerseys featuring every player from the UK’s choices carefully. Although it is a wholesale market, selective shoppers are
David Beckham to France’s Zinedine Zidane. welcome, but don’t make the mistake of spending too much time mulling
There’s more. Past the bare outskirts of this vast shopping mecca are entire over one item, as you’re sure to see it throughout the evening. Getting the best
alleyways dedicated to bedding and pillowcases, pots and pans, and still deal is a trick of the shopper’s trade and I recommend testing out a few ven-
another selling mostly fruit and preserved goods in bulk. dors, assuming you’re up to the challenge.
Once again in need of fuel, I stop for odeng, and am treated to the fish cake
served on a bamboo skewer, hot off the grill. While indulging, I meet a fellow
lady from my native country in search of merchandise for her local boutique.
She is shouldering two gigantic bags containing various Ed Hardy T-shirts,
which she tells me are trendy in Toronto. She will have to make several trips to
retrieve her wares, as her stash includes a Korean-style lantern, numerous pil-
lows and a curtain set. She showcases her bounty of metallic buttons and
beads for hand-made jewelry, a variety of monogrammed scarves, a dozen PROFILE
feather-adorned headbands and a handful of mini-photo album cell phone
During her 7 years in
charms. By now the pedestrian streets are thronging with merchants, hagglers Korea, Canadian Kelly
in animated action, and people eating, mingling and resting. It’s 2am and the Frances McKenna has
worked as a fashion
night is young for the Seoul shopping scene. model, performance
artist, graphic designer
Strolling around the lively streets, I am frequently surprised by the sheer and media coordina-
volume of goods that people are carrying, and the multiculturalism of the tor. She established
an NGO that special-
crowd. Buyers from Japan, China, Russia, the United States and Latin America izes in saving Korean
create a lively, if not chaotic, combination. It’s the nature of madness that moon bears. She cur-
rently co-owns a Web
comes off as unexpectedly welcome and appeals to my inner explorer, eager to site aimed at increas-
discover a new alley in a place I’ve long called home. There’s a sense of com- ing tourism while help-
ing fellow Seoulites
munity in this megaplex of shopping mania, united by the common goals of a maximize their time
here. When she isn’t
good bargain and jovial experience. This is the shopping mall that never busy hitting the mean
sleeps. In the words of Bo Derek, “Whoever said money can’t buy happiness streets of Seoul’s
shopping districts,
simply didn’t know where to go shopping.” Kelly enjoys animal
They certainly didn’t give the streets of Seoul a shot. by Kelly Frances McKenna | welfare work, jogging
and good conversation
photograph by Kim Nam-heon | illustrations by Jo Seung-yeon over Korean food.
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
34 2010 2010 35
SUMMIT DIPLOMACY
THE G-20 SUMMIT IN KOREA: The 40th World Economic Forum in past G-20 agreements: efforts to SHIFTING THE CENTER OF GLOBAL
Davos, Switzerland, was an occasion reduce gaps in international develop- GOVERNANCE The global head table
A BRIDGE TO THE WORLD to reaffirm the shifting of global lead-
ership of the world order from a Group
ment and forming a global financial
safety net; offering outreach to non-
has expanded to 20, as the center of
global governance has shifted. When
of Seven to a Group of 20. Korean member developing nations and hold- the consensus was formed that the G-
Leaders of 20 of the world’s leading and emerging economies, President Lee Myung-bak and French ing business summits. The 21st 7 structure would not be sufficient to
President Nicolas Sarkozy agreed in Century Security Agenda Committee overcome the global financial down-
known as the Group of 20, will descend on Seoul in November this their speeches that pressing global forum suggested an “Empowering G- turn in 2008, the G-20 was born. And
year. The summit is expected to serve as an opportunity to evaluate economic issues should be discussed 20,” arguing that during the G-20 at the Pittsburgh meeting in
the state of the global economy and the new world order. At the at the G-20 Summit. Summit in Seoul, a separate meeting September 2009, when Korea was
Korea Tourism Organization By virtue of hosting the conference, of high-ranking security officials selected as the next host, the G-20
Davos Forum held in January, President Lee Myung-bak once again Korea has seen its national profile should be staged. The committee also was also chosen as “the premier
reminded world leaders of Korea’s presence on the world stage. and prestige rise substantially. In his said the G-20 should take the opportu- forum” to discuss global economic
Here, KOREA takes a look at the significance of the G-20 Summit in address on January 27, President Lee nity to become a forum that deals not issues. The crisis made a new gover-
won popular support after proposing just with economic and financial nance structure necessary. Amid dis-
Seoul, its preparation and its agenda, while trying to predict in the agenda for the November meeting. issues, but non-traditional security putes surrounding the change — some
which direction global leadership is headed. by Kwon Kyeong-hui His plan includes fully implementing issues as well. developed nations preferred the G-8
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
36 2010 2010 37
and Chinese President Hu Jintao. financial market — could be included.
Sitting across from Brown was Saudi However, considering the establish-
Arabian King Abdullah. The overall ment of the G-20, there will be tight
seating plan reflected international competition for control between the
relations and Britain’s own interests. developed and the developing nations,
It was an example showing the rising and even among the powerful states
status of the emerging powers and themselves. From the start, the G-7
also the diplomatic skills of the UK. states were worried that the presence
The G-20 Summit in Korea will be of new rising powers in the G-20 set-
the largest event the nation has ever ting would compromise their vested
held. Aside from the leaders of the G- interests. Meanwhile, these emerging
20 members, representatives from states pointed out that the G-7 was
ASEAN and Africa, plus chiefs of the losing its ability to lead and govern the
WTO, OECD and IMF, among other international community, and they are
multinational agencies, will be in demanding that the membership be
attendance, bringing the number of expanded to reflect the increased
world leaders to about 30. More than clout of the emerging countries.
2,000 officials will accompany these Changes to the relationship
heads of state and agencies. Counting between the US and the EU, which
the members of the press, attendees once had strong ties, may be another
will number about 20,000. The G-20 reason that the G-20 will have strug-
members include the G-7 states — the gles before reaching consensus. As
US, UK, Germany, France, Japan, European nations worked toward inte-
Canada and Italy — as well as Korea, gration, friction occurred in some
structure while France led efforts to In December 2009, members of the Green Bicycle Russia, China, Brazil, Australia, South areas between the US and Europe.
Volunteers perform a ceremony wishing for the
form a Group of 14 — everybody set- Africa, Mexico, Saudi Arabia, India, Against this backdrop, the future of
success of the G-20 Seoul Summit (above). World
tled on the G-20. leaders at the London Summit 2009 (opposite top). Argentina, Indonesia, Turkey and the the G-20 will likely see a battle for
Thanks to the shift to a Group of President Lee Myung-bak, left, delivers a key chair nation of the European Union. power among the United States, the
speech at the World Economic Forum in Davos,
20, born of the economic crisis, Korea Switzerland, in January 2010 (opposite below).
Up to 130 billion won (US$113 million) EU and China, as the emerging pow-
now stands directly in the middle of could be necessary to run the summit. ers call for their share of the pie. The
the restructuring of global governance. The budget for security alone will reach working dynamics will likely be quite
The G-8 countries used to account for about 27 billion won (US$23.4 million). complicated.
nearly 80 percent of global productivi- The possible agenda for future G-20
ty, but now the figure has dropped to the G-20 nations, which account for KOREA TO SERVE AS THE BRIDGE summits could mean even more strug-
around 50 percent. Problems have 85 percent of the world’s gross President Lee Myung-bak and the gles. With regards to “sustainable
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
38 2010 2010 39
GLOBAL KOREA
Good People International (above, opposite above); World Vision (opposite below)
online have since kept giving.
devastated Haiti, a country in the Caribbean. But the people there
are still suffering. Their social system has collapsed and survivors GOVERNMENT LEADS OVERSEAS
RELIEF AID To help Haiti, the govern-
are not getting proper treatment. Aside from the food shortage, ment and the private sector provided
Haitians are exposed to poor hygienic and living conditions. And US$5 million in emergency relief
countries all over the world have worked hard to help Haiti funds. The government plans to add
another US$5 million for midterm
bounce back from the despair. Korea has actively participated in restoration and rebuilding projects.
relief efforts for Haiti, at the governmental, civic and corporate The National Emergency Management
levels. Of course, Haiti is not the first country Korea has helped. Agency led the government emergency
relief aid squad, including internation-
Since the 1990s, nongovernmental organizations (NGOs) started al aid teams and Korea International
providing overseas aid for various causes. Recently, companies Cooperation Agency members.
operating in foreign countries have joined in, and the govern- Doctors and nurses from the National
Medical Center and the Korean
ment has formed a legal framework for overseas relief work and Foundation for International Health-
increased the budget for such aid. by Park Ji-hwan care, and emergency aid workers at
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
40 2010 2010 41
the Ministry of National Defense, When a tsunami engulfed Southeast and blood banks, which had a com- Samsung plans to add an additional
formed the second aid unit, setting up Asia in December 2004, the govern- bined value of US$500,000. US$1 million or more through local
clinics to treat patients in Haiti. ment dug deep and supplied funding, In the future, Korea plans to budget subsidiaries.
In addition, the government will supplies and workers worth US$5 mil- at least US$50 million for overseas The union at LG Electronics gave 50
deploy peacekeeping forces to help lion out of a special budget. Victims of emergency aid. The government million won (US$43,500) in relief aid
Haiti recover from its ruins. The forces Cyclone Nargis in Myanmar in May believes the amount of overseas aid to Good Neighbors. The money is
will stay in Haiti until December 31 2008 received US$2.5 million, and must be on a par with our national being used to help rebuild school
this year to lend their hands to the the Chinese suffering after the status. In order to solidify the struc- areas and provide drinking water and
country. The Ministry of National Sichuan earthquake that year got ture to provide official development medication. Aside from the labor
Defense allocated 28.7 billion won, US$5.48 million. assistance (ODA) and to build an aid union, LG Electronics decided to sup-
about US$24.8 million, for expenses. Aside from financial aid, the govern- system suitable for Korea, the govern- ply US$60,000 worth of relief goods
The government’s overseas aid ment has been sending aid workers to ment plans to set up a separate and volunteers through its Panama
efforts received a much-needed boost on-site locales. The first “quick- agency for international development. subsidiary, which services Haiti. The
in 2007 when the law on overseas response” workers from Korea served dispatch of volunteers will be timed
emergency aid was passed. Based on in the United States after Hurricane BUSINESSES OFFER THEIR HELP with the arrival of supplies.
this legal foundation, the Ministry of Katrina devastated New Orleans. Korean companies haven’t shied away Hyundai Heavy Industries worked
Foreign Affairs and Trade can deter- Another quick-response unit extend- from reaching out to others. Samsung with the Haitian embassy in the
mine the extent and the method of ed a helping hand to Sichuan after the Group donated US$1 million to be Dominican Republic and the Red
humanitarian aid, depending on the earthquake. The National 119 Rescue used in rebuilding Haiti after the mas- Cross to send 21-ton and 11-ton exca-
degree of damage, in the case of dis- Service workers sent 41 members to sive earthquake. It is the largest con- vators to facilitate repair work, plus
asters. This law also expanded the China just 12 hours after getting the tribution by a single Korean firm. skilled workers to operate the equip- noodle packs, 1,680 boxes of bottled will span over 33,000 square meters
government’s budget on overseas call for help. ment. The excavators were provided water and other supplies to the of land in the Paraguayan capital
relief aid. Before, an average of US$1 When the influenza A (H1N1) virus by the company’s dealer in the Chinese Red Cross. Hanjin Group Asuncion. It will adopt the Korean
million per year was spent on such aid hit Mexico in April last year, Korea A boy wandered around the region of Batticaloa, Dominican Republic and its subsidiary supplied 2,000 blankets and 36,000 youth anti-drug education system and
eastern province of Sri Lanka, just after the
efforts, but the amount has since was there to supply high-quality Tsunami (below). A Haiti baby is holding a volun- in Chicago. Until emergency restora- 1.5-liter bottles on a special freighter offer concentrated education and
risen to about US$8 million per year. masks, ear thermometers, liquid soap teer’s hand (opposite). tion is complete, Hyundai Heavy that traveled to the emergency com- management programs to eradicate
Industries will provide the oil, filter, mand center in Chengdu, Sichuan drug use among the Paraguay’s youth.
parts and skills necessary to repair Province. Good Neighbors has already invited
equipment. “When Korean companies make related officials, including the minister
Korean firms also showed generosi- profits in the global markets, then of youth in Paraguay, to introduce
ty in the aftermath of the Sichuan they all have roles and responsibilities them to the Korean education pro-
earthquake. Beijing Hyundai Motor as members of that society,” said an grams. The NGO plans to send
provided five Tucson SUVs, worth 1.1 official with a major conglomerate. “In experts to Paraguay in the near future.
million yuan. Dongfeng Yueda Kia, Kia order for the Korean firms to establish The Paraguayan government has high
Motors’ Chinese subsidiary, handed themselves in the international mar- expectations as it prepares to learn
out six Sportage SUVs, worth 1 million kets, they should continue to give from Korea, which is virtually free of
yuan. Hyundai Mobis gave 500,000 back to society around the world.” youth drug abuse.
yuan. Right after the earthquake hit, Good Neighbors will set up a para-
LG Group donated 17 million yuan to THE GOVERNMENT AND THE PUBLIC site control center in Tanzania and will
the Chinese Red Cross. Six of its JOIN HANDS A new model for joint give the locals education in preven-
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
42 2010 2010 43
NOW IN KOREA
SWEPT UP BY
GIRL GROUPS
The hottest term in Korea at the moment is none other than “girl group.” They can be seen
Yonhapnews Agency
ter. At first he wasn’t thrilled about the show, as it felt more of houses and screamed with joy at a sighting. Back then, older
a playground for teenagers than a setting for a father. But once folks would look at the crazed youths with awe. Their typical
he was there, he encountered a sight he’d never expected to response was to cluck their tongues and scold the youngsters
see. The crowd lined at the entrance was composed of such a for “recklessly chasing singers when they ought to be studying
diversity of people, males and females of all ages, from teens hard for their futures.”
to the middle-aged. Older men and women alike were proudly However, 20 years later, things have changed again. The
standing in line holding the hands of their children, who were in generation that once devoted themselves to fan clubs has now
2NE1 targeted female fans with their boyish features (opposite top). 4Minute has
recently given concerts in Thailand and the Philippines (opposite below). Girls’
Generation became a teenage icon with their fun and friendly fashion sense (above).
KOREA KOREA
MARCH MARCH
46 2010 2010 47
Generation seduced audiences with their long-legged dance past glory days. In this way, the energetic youth of idol groups
to the enchanting “Say Your Wish.” The possibilities are end- brings a sense of longing to people looking back on their
less, but what’s certain is that girl idol groups have made their prime. Wanting to return to those days of joy and resilience, of
way into our lives. No matter our age or gender, these girls endless youth, is understandable, and even amplified during
allow us to dream once again, moving us with their cheerful- times of hardship.
ness and a feeling of fresh radiance. The vibrancy of their Girl groups have seemingly materialized for the Korean pub-
songs, dances, clothes and performances is so irresistible that lic at just the right moment. They are the consolation of finding
every move is picked up by the world’s pop radar. They render an oasis in the banal desert of everyday life, the time machine
the term “singer” insufficient. They are at the edge of the fron- that brings us back to the light memory of youth, and the mes-
tier of popular culture, but they are not just pioneers — they sengers of pop culture announcing the end of an era and the
are the culture. coming of the next. So, why should there be shame or embar-
rassment at finding peace and nostalgia for a few moments,
THE SHADOW OF RECESSION AND NOSTALGIA Some are so or enjoying a new cultural movement? Seeing a father singing
surprised by the elder generation’s enthusiasm for girl groups along with his daughter to a girl group’s song in a karaoke
that they cannot help but mention the Lolita complex. room has become a natural scene in Korea. The culture has
Nevertheless, that would be an example of an exaggerated changed and the ubiquitous girl group is simply a representa-
principle that remains from the past authoritarian era. In the tion of progress.
course of shifting from a masculine-dominated era to one of Though this idol fever may look like a simple fandom phe-
feminine equality, the imposing frames of age and gender are nomenon created by singers and their enthused fans, the pic-
being slowly torn down. The time has come in pop culture ture reflects a much deeper image. Each generation has lived
where a man in his 40s can cheer for teenage girl groups with- in an era of the shadow of recession, and is now escaping a
out being looked at suspiciously. constricting ideology by gathering behind a new icon of the era.
Neganetwork
Additionally, the craze for girl groups has inseparable ties Girl groups are one of the symbols at the center, inciting a new
with the long and difficult recession. Retro trends are born age and time. Korea is embracing the reign of idol bands and
because contemporary troubles lead people to reminisce about it’s an era that’s not going anywhere soon.
Brown Eyed Girls recently became a big hit with their bold dancing style (above).
KOREA
MARCH
48 2010
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