The French Way by Bicycle

The goal of all the historic ways to Santiago is the City of Santiago de Compostela
in Galicia. And the most famous route of all is the one known as the French Way,
which crosses the Pyrenees from France into Spain. This route is brimming with
history, legends and art, and boasts a wealth of landscapes and natural settings
as diverse as they are unforgettable.
This publication takes us along this route, which after leaving France, crosses the
North of Spain and brings us to Santiago. During the Middle Ages practically the
only way to travel this route was on foot or on horseback. The coming of new
means of transportation did not change the course of these methods of
travelling, except in one case - the bicycle.
The strong attraction - both culturally and spiritually of making the journey to
Santiago in the traditional way - on foot or on horseback - has been maintained,
owing to the interest of the pilgrims themselves, to the conservation of much of
the original route and, in recent years, thanks to the creation of different services
adapted to these types of journeys.

Travelling the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago by bicycle has been accepted as it

embodies many of the traditional features of the pilgrimage. Indeed, the speed
and the changes in pace are complemented by considerable physical effort and
the sense of overcoming one's limitations, being thus conducive to reflection and
a certain feeling of solitude, which are all compatible with group travelling and
solidarity.
If you start your itinerary at the last village on the Way before entering Spain, via
Roncesvalles, as we propose here, the distance from Santiago is nearly 800

kilometres. Approximately half of the route travels over rough terrain,

interspersed with continuous climbs up and down hills as well as a few mountain
passes.
But the pilgrim can plan these 800 kilometres as he or she wishes, depending on
how physically fit the person is and how much time they have to spare. Before
setting out, the key factors to consider are the bicycle and its equipment, physical
fitness and food. Pilgrims should also find out about their route and plan ahead.
Particularly worthy of consideration is how much baggage to take.
Equipping the bicycle
The basic equipment of any mountain bike should usually be sufficient to tackle a
route such as the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago with minimum safety guarantees.
It is, however, necessary to fit the bicycle with panniers and a bike rack over the
rear wheel. It is also useful to have a small pack under the seat to carry a small
tool kit. Other convenient equipment includes handlebar packs to carry maps
and information about the route. A speedometer may also be installed.
Physical training
Experienced cyclists should practise riding on rough terrain with loaded bicycle
packs prior to their departure.
Those who are not experienced should start off gently, gradually building up
their cycling skills and stamina and practising on rough terrain. It is a good idea
to start training a month before departure, riding a little every day, gradually
increasing the distances. The last week should be dedicated to getting used to
riding with full bike packs.
It is essential to have tested all equipment and clothing before leaving and to
have a basic knowledge of bicycle mechanics.
The condition of the route
The best time of year to cycle along the Pilgrims' Way is the first fortnight in
September, after the hot summer weather has subsided, but when the days are
still long. Another good season is from late May until the beginning of July.
During the spring and early autumn the Way is at its very best, although
changing weather conditions may put a damper on the trip from time to time.
The months of July and August are not the best times of year to choose, mainly
because of the heat. If you do decide to travel during these months, it is advisable
to do so early in the morning and late in the afternoon. The Way is not pleasant
to travel along in winter, due to the adverse weather conditions. It is cold and
often wet, and even snows occasionally, and the roads are in poor condition.
Baggage
Baggage must be reduced to a minimum, owing to the conditions of the bicycle
itself.
The basic equipment should consist of a jersey, padded short pants, mountain
bike shoes or trainers with hard soles, gloves, sunglasses, a hat or cap, a light
rain jacket and a helmet.

If the trip is not made in summer, equipment must be

adapted to winter weather - a thermal jersey, padded
long pants, etc.You also must pack only the most essential
undergarments and street clothes, light trainers,
sunscreen, a towel, articles for personal hygiene, a
water bottle, a torch and personal documents and
information about the route.
Other basic elements include a sleeping bag and mat,
tools for minor repairs, especially punctures, and
plastic covering to protect the panniers and sleeping
bag.
The Compostela
Before you leave, you must also decide if you wish to
obtain the Compostela, the document that serves to
accredit the pilgrimage to Santiago, which is issued by
the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela through the
Pilgrim's Office.
This certificate is granted to those pilgrims who have
completed the Way for religious reasons, either on
foot, horseback or by bicycle. Cyclists must prove that
they have travelled at least the last 200 kilometres of
this pilgrimage route by presenting a card that has
been stamped by the different establishments of the
Church and other entities along the Way.
Suggested Route
The Pilgrims' Way to Santiago does not start at a
specific point nor does it consist of a single itinerary.
Indeed, the Way can be reached from many different
places all over Europe. This publication proposes the
route that has traditionally been the best known and the most popular: the
French Way. This route runs along four major roads in France and enters Spain
through two points in the Pyrenees: Roncesvalles (Navarre) and Somport
(Aragon). Here we present the route that goes from the neighbouring French
town of Saint-Jean Pied de Port, an emblematic town on the Pilgrims' Way, to the
city of Santiago.
The Way is divided into 15 stretches, in an attempt to combine the stamina of the
average cyclist with the places of historic and artistic interest along the route.
Nevertheless, each cyclist must adapt the route to his or her particular
characteristics. The Way must never become a race to reach Compostela.
As you will see, at the end of each stretch, the cyclist will find pilgrims' hostels
that are very reasonably priced some are even free of charge. At some of the
hostels pilgrims travelling on foot take preference over other travellers, - a
tradition that must be complied with. Along almost all of the stretches, there are
other alternative accommodation options for pilgrims to choose from.

1. Saint-Jean Pied de Port to Roncesvalles

In the French town of Saint-Jean Pied de Port, the
Way of Saint James looks out over Spanish
territory. A mere 30 kilometres separates the north
and south face of the Pyrenees Mountain range
along one of the most beautiful and inspiring
stretches of the Pilgrims' Way.
This first stretch offers two possible itineraries,
both of which have a long-standing tradition. The
first, called the "Route of the Mountain passes of
Cize" is more difficult, but also more rewarding.
The traveller comes across sweeping views of the
Pyrenean landscape and lush woods of deciduous
trees all along the way. The second route, through
Valcarlos, is more accessible but does not offer such
spectacular scenery.

2. Roncesvalles to Pamplona
On this stretch of the Way we leave the Pyrenees
behind. The immense Pyrenean forest gives way to
small patches of oak woods and conifers,
interspersed with farmlands and dry barren lands.
This route invites the traveller to delight in the
magnificent and carefully conserved towns in the
Navarra Region.
This stretch takes the cyclist on a roller coaster ride
through narrow winding ways that make this route a
veritable "leg breaker". Barring this, the way itself is
not especially difficult, with the exception of the
descent down the Alto de Erro and the last leg of this
stretch, from Zabaldica onwards. If it is raining, it is
advisable to follow the road on these two sections.

3. Pamplona to Estella
This stretch penetrates into the heart of the ancient
region of Navarra. It crosses dry plains and furrowed
farmlands dotted with towns and villages.
After travelling halfway, the cyclist enters the
emblematic town of Puente la Reina, where the two
routes of the French Way, one entering Spain from
Roncesvalles and the other from Somport, join
together as one to head towards Santiago.
The symbol of this junction is this town's historic
bridge built to help the pilgrims on their way for the
pilgrims.
This way is relatively easy, except for the last leg,
during the ascent to the Alto del Perdon. The muddy
part of this stretch makes it difficult to travel in
inclement weather.

4. Estella to Logrono
This is the last leg of the stretch travelling in a
south-westerly direction. After Logrono, the French
Way turns west, and continues in this direction until
it reaches Compostela.
This stretch skirts the great Benedictine Monastery
of Irache and crosses the Ebro River over the
historic Piedra Bridge, at the gates of the city of
Logrono, capital of the region of La Rioja. Fields of
grain and vineyards line the way on our journey.
This is an arduous stretch, known as "leg breaker",
with a never-ending succession of steep hills to
climb and where the wind becomes an unpleasant
companion all along the route. During wet weather,
there may also be problems with mud on the dirt
ways.

5. Logrono to Santo Domingo de la Calzada

Vineyards and farmlands make up the countryside of
a stretch, which leads us to Santo Domingo de la
Calzada, rich in history and traditions associated with
Saint James and the Pilgrims' Way, as the eponymous
saint to attend to the pilgrims founded it.
The saint's influence can also be seen along the Way
in this area, with a magnificent 24-arch bridge
spanning the Oja River.
The hills of La Demanda, to the south, and of
Cantabria to the north, flank the vast valley of the
Ebro River, which the cyclist crosses during this leg.
The strong winds bearing down upon the valley make
for tough conditions on an already arduous stretch.

5. Santo Domingo de la Caliada to Burgos

The Oca Mountains are the most characteristic
geographical feature on this stretch. The ascent up
to these small peaks takes the cyclist through what
is to be the last major area of woodland before
entering the Bierzo region.
Once the arduous mountain pass of La Pedraja, and
the highest section of the Oca Mountains is behind
him, the pilgrim will see his efforts rewarded by
the natural, historic and artistic setting of the
Monastery of San Juan de Ortega.
After visiting this beautiful set of buildings, the
landscape once again becomes dominated by
plains, leading us to the monumental city of
Burgos.

7. Burgos to Carrion de Los Condes

Like the previous stretch, this stage is filled with
numerous cultural landmarks closely linked to the
Way and Saint James.
Other sites of interest include Fitero Bridge,
Romanesque in origin with eleven arches spanning
the Pisuerga River, and the monumental heritage of
towns such as Fromista, Villalcazar de Sirga and
Carrion, all of which are located in the region of
Palencia called Tierra de Campos.
Although this stretch appears to be flat, there is a
series of hillocks, which the pilgrim must tackle.
As soon as he reaches the top of one hill, another
appears on the horizon. The pilgrim is rewarded by
the stunning views offered by these vantage points.

8. Carrion de Los Condes to Sahagun

Along this stretch, the countryside is dominated by
the endless austere plains of Castile, leading the
pilgrim to Sahagun, the most important historical
and cultural landmark, boasting emblematic
Romanesque-Mudejar churches among many other
attractions.
This stretch represents a halfway mark along the
Pilgrims' Way to Santiago. The unrelenting sun of
the vast Castilian flatlands is hard on the traveller
during the summer season.
The pilgrim can find some relief in the isolated
rows of poplar trees lining a few of the streams and
in the shade of the narrow streets in the towns.
The first 16 kilometres of this stretch go along
charming little roads through farmlands, but the
rest of the route largely coincides with the N-120
highway.

9. Sahagun to Leon
After leaving Sahagun, the Way penetrates into
the plains of Leon. The scenery is very
changeable and the way is difficult and stony.
In addition to the austere beauty of the plains,
the pilgrim is ultimately rewarded with the
appearance on the horizon of the city of Leon,
with its exceptional artistic heritage, the most
outstanding element of which is the Gothic
cathedral.
Crossing this barren plain is an arduous
proposition, both in summer and in winter. The
pilgrims have a choice of two alternative routes
on this stretch. The first, less strenuous, travels
along the Camino Real, and the other rougher,
more solitary route, takes the traveller along the
historic pilgrim road.
In both cases, in summer it is advisable to set out
very early in the morning and to carry an ample
supply of water.

10. Leon to Astorga

The journey to Santiago continues on through a
more populated and accessible plain. The last
stretch, en route to the Roman city of Astorga, takes
us into the region of La Maragateria, famous for its
muleteers and deep-rooted traditions.
At kilometre 33 on this stretch, the pilgrim comes
across the Bridge of Paso Honroso spanning the
Orbigo River, and famous for the deeds of Suero de
Quinones, a 15th century knight.
During the Holy Year of 1434, fulfilling a promise to
a lady and naming Saint James as his witness, this
knight participated in some famous jousting
tournaments on this spot.

11. Astorga to Ponferrada

The way continues along through the region of La
Maragateria which ends roughly halfway through
this stage. In the vicinity of Mount !raga, the Bierzo
region begins, marking the transition between
Leon and Galicia.
Here the people, their customs and landscape act
as a bridge across the gap that divides the two
cultures.
Similarly, at this point the Way also undergoes a
transition from the straight route of the flat plains
to the sinuous ways and roads snaking up and
down around the hills all the way to Santiago.
On this stretch the pilgrim must climb Cruz de
Ferro, 1,504 m in altitude, one of the highest points
along the French Way.

12. Ponferrada to O Cebreiro

The Bierzo region and Galicia meet on this stretch,
which culminates Ponferrada at 1,300 m in 0
Cebreiro, which is perhaps the most mythical of all
the villages on this Way, and heavily charged with
symbolism.
Prior to this destination, in Villafranca del Bierzo,
the traveller may admire this town's fine collection
of monuments and the Romanesque Church of
Santiago, where pilgrims who are unable to reach
Santiago de Compostela may receive plenary
indulgence.
The first few kilometres along this route continue
in the same vein, from Villafranca through the
narrow valley of the Valcarce River whose banks
are lined with oaks and chestnut trees. The last
eight km ascends some 690 metres.
However the spectacular views of the countryside
and the notion that Compostela is drawing near
more than compensate for the effort

13. Cebreiro to Sarria

The lush countryside and the Galician mountains
dominate this stretch.
In Triacastela the pilgrim can choose between two
possible routes: to continue along the traditional
way, through the village of A Balsa in a setting of
woods and meadows, or to take the road to Samos,
whose great Benedictine Monastery has attracted
pilgrims since ancient times.
From here and as far as Santiago de Compostela,
the Way makes its way through inhabited areas,
passing through a succession of villages.
Two of the most important of these are Triacastela
and Samos. The Way makes its way up and down
hills, although this stretch ascends almost 850
metres between 0 Cebreiro and Sarria.

14. Sarria to Palas de Rei

The Way leads out of Sarria through some of the
most magnificent oak woods to be found on the
entire route, continuing through an endless
succession of villages and farmland.
Historically Portomarin stands out as having been
one of the most important towns along the route,
but it disappeared under the waters of the Belesar
Reservoir built on the Mino River in 1962.
The new town of Portomarin, by the ruins of the old
town, has tried to maintain its traditional charm.
Some of the old constructions from the original site
were moved to the new location, such as the Church
of San Nicolas (12th century)
This penultimate part of the route travels through a
countryside of rolling hills and short stretches of
plains, which, however, does not keep it from being
a true "leg breaker" owing to the constantly
changing course.

15. Palas de Rei - Santiago de Compostela

At this point, just 70 kilometres from the ultimate
goal of Santiago de Compostela, the pilgrims are
filled with a sense of expectation, which affords
them the encouragement they need to tackle this
last stretch with renewed strength.
Santiago will reward them for all the efforts they
have made.
Even though the contour of the land does not
present any major difficulties on this last stage, the
Way travels through village after village, making it
rather wearisome.
The Way takes us across valleys and rivers
descending to the Tambre. The succession of ascents
and descents makes for arduous cycling. Moreover,
this stretch crosses the N-547 highway several
times.
On reaching the Monte do Gozo, we have our first
glimpse of the towers of the Cathedral of Santiago
the goal is now in sight. From here we go directly
into the heart of the city.

The historic city

After visiting the Cathedral, the place where pilgrims first arrive and meet, they
can enjoy a tour of the city of Santiago in all its historic splendour, taking in the
diversity and dynamic appearance it offers today.
The modern-day city of Santiago de Compostela evolved from a small settlement
of monks who were the custodians of the tomb of the Apostle at the time of its
discovery, around the year 820. The city underwent spectacular development
during the Middle Ages, thanks to the popularity of pilgrimages in Europe, which
made it, along with Jerusalem and Rome, one of the three great centres of the
Christian world.
Between the 15th and the 19th centuries, the city alternated between prosperity
and decadence, in keeping with the fluctuating pulse of the history of Galicia,
Spain and Europe. Pilgrimages became less and less important, but Santiago
consolidated its position as a centre of culture, learning and spirituality thanks to
the founding of the University and the city's Renaissance and Baroque heritage,
mirrored in most of its major historical monuments and buildings.
In the Cathedral
The Cathedral of Santiago, whose construction began in the year 1075, is one of
the great European monuments from both an artistic and symbolic standpoint.
From its Romanesque origins, it evolved through a number of styles, although
the Baroque elements are perhaps the most outstanding, culminating in the
facade of 0 Obradoiro (1738-1750).
A tour of the naves and its Museum reveals an interesting and varied heritage
both in content and significance.
During his visit to the cathedral and surroundings, the pilgrim usually carries out
a ritual that takes him to the chapel of the main altar, in keeping with the
tradition, to 'embrace' the Apostle Saint James - a sculpture of Romanesque
origin - and next, to visit the crypt where his remains are buried. A visit to the
Portico of Glory is also part of the ritual, as is attending the pilgrims' mass at 12
noon, where the swinging of the botafumeiro, hanging high up in he nave of the
transept surprises and delights the visitor,
After his visit to the Cathedral, if the pilgrim has all the required credentials
justifying his pilgrimage, on foot, on horseback or by bicycle, he may go to the
Pilgrims' Office to ask for the Compostela, the document accrediting his
pilgrimage, which is granted by the Cathedral Chapter. From this moment on the
city of Santiago de Compostela belongs to the pilgrim to enjoy and to treasure.
The modern-day city
Santiago has enjoyed steady growth since the mid 20th century. In addition to
the gradual rebirth of the pilgrimages, which keep its traditional spiritual
significance alive, the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago has become a growing tourist
and cultural attraction.
In recent years, Santiago, the administrative capital of the autonomous region of
Galicia, has seen the construction of a number of important cultural and tourist
infrastructures and it has succeeded in projecting an international image as a

European oriented historic and cultural centre. Proof of this are the thousands of
visitors that flock to the city every day throughout the year.
Declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO, Santiago is anxious to maintain its
thousand year old tradition of harmony, spirituality and progress through the
historic tradition of its Pilgrims' Way.
1 Cathedral-Holy Door- Xelmirez Palace
2 Raxoi Palace
3 Reis Catolicos Hotel
4 College of San Xerome
5 Church of San Fructuoso
6 Fonseca College
7 Cabildo House
8 Conga House
9 Parra House
10 Convent of San Paio de Antealtares
11 Monastery of San Martino Pinario
12 Church of San Martino Pinario
13 The Dean's House. Pilgrims' Office
14 Vaamonde Palace
15 Bendana Palace
16 Church of Santa Maria Salome
17 Convent of San Francisco
18 Convent of Carme
19 Convent of Santa Clara
20 Church and former hospital of San Roque
21 Gothic House. Pilgrimage Museum
22 San Domingos de Bonaval. Museum of the Galician People
23 Galician Centre of Modern Art
24 Faculty of History and Geography
25 University Church
26 Church of San Fiz de Solovio
27 Convent and Church of the Mercedarian Mothers
28 School of As Orfas
29 Church of San Miguel dos Agros
30 Church of Santa Maria do Camino

31 Church of San Bieito do Campo

32 Convent of Santo Agostino
33 San Clemente College
34 General Chapel of Animas
35 Chapel of Santiago
36 Church of El Pilar
37 The Collegiate Church of Santa Maria a Real de Sar
The Pilgrims' Ways to Santiago
The discovery of the Tomb of the Apostle Saint James the Greater at the
beginning of the 9th century soon brought about a stream of travellers making
the pilgrimage to the site, which is today the Galician city of Santiago de
Compostela. This vast influx of pilgrims from all over Europe led to the creation
of a network of itineraries, known collectively as the Camino de Santiago or the
Pilgrims' Way to Santiago.
The heyday of the pilgrimages took place between the 11th, 12th and 13th
centuries with the granting of specific spiritual indulgences. This trend, however,
has endured to a greater or lesser extent over the course of the centuries. Since
the mid 20th century the Pilgrims' Way to Santiago has been experiencing an
international rebirth, which combines its spiritual and socio-cultural tradition
with its tourist appeal, and once again it has become a melting pot for all types of
peoples and cultures.
Traditionally the Pilgrims' Ways are at their busiest during the Holy Years, held
at intervals of 6, 5, 6, and 11 years -the next will be in 2010-, but any time is ideal
for following the Way towards its ultimate goal: the city of Santiago de
Compostela.