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FEATURES

Dempsey
Hill TEXT BY
edwin tam

IMAGES COURTESY OF
Angel’s Share, Edwin Tam, Dome, HOUSE,
Jones the Grocer, RED SEA GALLERY AND Dempsey Hill

Dempsey Hill

The Dempsey Road phenomenon started with PS Café and Oosh. ONE DAY OUT

PS Café blended a spanking new glass and metal structure into Dempsey’s wild greenery. Oosh converted a BREAKFAST on quality coffee and cheeses at
pre-war army barrack into a bar-cum-restaurant whilst giving it a "Little Bali" feel. Despite these places being Jones the Grocer. Stock up on Aussie chocolates
quite hard to reach from the main road, word spread and people – from sandalled young ‘uns to Lamborghini while you are there. Culina, across the road, has a
owners – flocked there for martinis or double-fudge chocolate cakes. nice brunch for late-risers.

Go further afield in the AFTERNOON. The antique


Patrons simply loved the laidback and away-from-the-city atmosphere (ironically, it is only five minutes from
shops and galleries on the outskirts of the hill
Orchard Road), and clamoured for more of the same: untrimmed verdure; quaint buildings; air-conditioning;
have great gift and home ideas. Grab an ice cream
chi chi food and drinks.
at Ben & Jerry’s or spa out on the second floor
of HOUSE.
Someone heard them.
At NIGHT, you will see plenty of Lamborghinis,
Pre-war army barracks were converted, conserved and refurbished, almost overnight, into indulgent eateries, Porsches, BMWs and gas-guzzling SUVs parked
pubs, galleries and shops. Landscapers trimmed the greenery but generally, it is left as it was – un-manicured. and double-parked in the main square. Hearty
Parking lots were scratched into the uneven tarmac and ushers directed Mercedes, Jaguars, BMWs and Porsches eaters should go for steaks at The Prime Society.
into the main stockade crammed with other Mercedes, Jaguars, BMWs and Porsches. Hop from wines under the sky at Angel’s Share to
live music at Harry’s.
That stockade-like place – also known as Dempsey Hill – contains some of the most posh and beautifully designed
restaurants with a smattering of shops. That is where you should go to eat up Singapore’s latest village life.

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Harry's Angel's Share

Ben & Jerry's Dome

ON THE HILL

Angel's Share Harry's


This "restrobar" at the edge of Dempsey Hill boasts over 700 wine labels and 50 At last count, there are 16 Harry’s on this little red dot. The Dempsey outlet is
wines by the glass from Australia, California, France and Italy. Our favourites are outfitted with rather severe leather high chairs and plush couches. Expect the
Rockford and Whistling Eagle because of their exclusivity. The indoor décor is usual working crowds and expats who flock here for beers and live music.
rather modern with TV screens, velvety sofas and curved lines, but the best seats Dempsey Road, Blk 11 #01-17a, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 5pm to 1am (Mondays
are at the Oosh-like outdoor area. to Fridays), 11am to 1am (Saturdays to Sundays, Public Holidays); Tel: (65) 6471 9019;
Dempsey Road, Blk 10 #01-23, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 5pm to 1am (Mondays to www.harrys.com.sg.
Saturdays); Tel: (65) 6471 9595; www.angelshare.sg.
Go-Go Bambini
Dome The American concept "Pay for play" has been given a twist at Go-Go Bambini.
The oak wood furnishings, ceiling mural of a compass and dapper colour scheme Kids go wild at their interactive PlayScape where a five-metre tall spiral slide lets
complement the old colonial building. As with the other outlets around Singapore, them climb, bounce, slide and do things that all kids should do. While the kids
Dome café is best for a quick coffee or tea and its pastries rather than an actual play, the adults can relax at Café Bambini, read at the Library or get nails buffed
meal. Go for the ice coffee with gelato and cakes. at the Nail Spa. Just remember that it is not a childcare centre and you’ll have to
Dempsey Road, Blk 11 #01-18, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 8am to 11pm (Sundays watch over your kids.
to Thursdays), 8am to 1am (Fridays to Saturdays, eve of Public Holidays); Tel: (65) 6476 8748; Dempsey Road, Blk 8 #01-15, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 10am to 6pm (Sundays
www.olio.sg. to Thursdays), 10am to 8pm (Fridays to Saturdays); Tel: (65) 6474 4176; www.gogobambini.
com; Cost: Child from 2 to 11 years old – S$15 unlimited play (Mondays to Fridays), S$15 for
Ben & Jerry’s @ The Ranch Home 2 hours, S$3 for every 30 minutes thereafter (Saturdays to Sundays), Child under 2 years old
The kooky ice cream guys’ latest ice cream shop has a "Texan Ranch" theme to – S$6 unlimited play.
it. The interiors are wood-furnished, there is a four-poster bed at the loft, a faux
fireplace by the side and, not surprisingly, kids screaming for ice cream. There’s The Prime Society
also a small deli and bakery (CA*California), and a bar for those who need beers This steakhouse’s rather pompous feel – the districtus commandments; an
with their Chunky Monkeys. "inauguration" envelope of silverware; Romantic-style ceiling murals – is somewhat
Dempsey Road, Blk 8 #01-14, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 11am to 11pm (Sundays to offset by its irreverent placemats and menus. The steaks (S$36 and up), grilled
Thursdays), 11am to 12.30pm (Fridays to Saturdays); Tel: (65) 6473 3231; www.benjerry.com.sg. over a Parrilla-styled oak plank grill, are must-haves. If you are game, try their
unusual drinks: Tiger Beer Milkshake (S$15) or Blue Cheese Martini (S$15).
Culina Quality Food & Beverage Dempsey Road, Blk 10 #01-20, Singapore 247700; Opening Hours: 11am to 3pm (Mondays
We go to Culina for food items that can’t be found in our neighbourhood NTUCs. to Fridays), 10am to 3pm (Saturdays to Sundays), 6pm to 1am (Mondays to Sundays); Tel:
It stocks European imports: cheeses and fresh seafood from France; extra virgin (65) 6474 7427; www.theprimesociety.com.
olive oils from Italy; Balsamic vinegar from Modena. In addition, they’re also known
for their old and new world wines. There’s a café on premise, Enoteca, where you
can sip wine by the glass (27 wines available) and gnaw on a sandwich.
Dempsey Road, Blk 8 #01-13, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 9am to 8pm (Mondays to
Saturdays), 9am to 6pm (Sundays and Public Holidays); Tel: (65) 6474 7338; www.culina.com.sg.

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Quaruba'r Jones the Grocer

Red Sea Gallery Margarita's

Jones the Grocer Dempsey Road, Blk 11 #01-17, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 5pm to 1am (Sundays to
Originally from Australia, their second international store stocks premium Fridays, Public Holidays), 3pm to 2am (Saturdays, eve of Public Holidays); Tel: (65) 6479 9929;
Australian food products such as bottled sauces, jams, coffee beans and www.quarubar.com.
cheeses. The shop features a walk-in cheese room packed with slowly ripening
cheeses and communal tables – ostensibly to "bring people together" – in its café. Rakuichi Japanese Restaurant
Shoppers with sweet teeth should not miss the central counter selling massive Smallish eatery with dark wood and simple interiors. There’s the usual sushi,
slabs of hard-to-find chocolate and nougat mixes such as Rocky Road Candy. sashimi, kushiyaki (barbequed meat on skewers) and shabu-shabu (beef hot
Dempsey Road, Blk 9 #01-12, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 9.30am to 6pm (Mondays), pot). What separates it from the crowd of Japanese restaurants is the visual
9.30am to 11pm (Tuesdays to Sundays); Tel: (65) 6476 1512; www.jonesthegrocer.com. spectacle of a fish counter where whole fresh fish are laid out on ice like a fancy
fish market.
La Forketta Gastronomia Italiana Dempsey Road, Blk 10 #01-22, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm
Like its River Valley branch, the Dempsey Hill outlet serves up hearty Italian food. to 10pm (Mondays to Sundays); Tel: (65) 6474 2143; www.rakuichi.com.sg.
Probably your best choice if you must have pizzas but there are better options
elsewhere. Note: Once seated, you will be served a bread basket (S$4). Let the Red Sea Gallery
staff take it back if do not want it. If the name sounds familiar, then you might have seen the gallery at its previous
Dempsey Road, Blk 9 #01-09, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 12pm to 3pm (Tuesdays, locale along River Valley Road. The minimalist gallery is run by a British couple,
Thursdays to Sundays), 6pm to 10pm (Daily); Tel: (65) 6475 2298. Chris and Charlotte Churcher, and features artworks from the Asia-Pacific region.
The gallery’s in-house art school and ceramics studio, Creating Waves Art School,
Margarita’s has art classes for children and ceramics or painting classes for adults.
Probably the only restaurant where you can find mole sauce – a savoury chocolate Dempsey Road, Blk 9 #01-10, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 9.30am-9.00pm (Mondays
sauce with kicks of chilli. The interior, as befitting a Mexican restaurant, is to Sundays); Tel: (65) 6732 6711; www.redseagallery.com.
decorated in red and orange hues. Our only complaint is that it can get a bit too
dim inside. Try their Chicken Enchilada with mole sauce and if it gets too spicy, Vintage India
their Margaritas will douse the chilli fires. According to the owners, the restaurant is a showcase of pre-independent India
Dempsey Road, Blk 11 #01-19, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 11.30am to 3pm, 6pm to when it was at its culinary peak. Expect plenty of glass chandeliers, elaborately
10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays); Tel: (65) 6471 3228. decorated chairs and white tablecloth. Go for their Samarkand Prawns (S$30)
– tiger prawns stuffed with minced crab meat and nuts, and barbequed in the
Quaruba’r tandoor – and Madras Club Koorma (S$28) – a thick gravy-based vegetable dish
This spacious pub is run by the guys from Pool Junction. While the building with a mildly sweet aftertaste.
remains unchanged, they’ve put in squeaky leather couches, high black wooden Dempsey Road, Blk 10 #01-21, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 11.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm
chairs, full-length mirrors behind the bar counter and a massive wall-hanging of to 11pm (Mondays to Sundays); Tel: (65) 6471 3100.
Buddha’s head. The bar stocks an extensive whiskey selection: from Macallums to
rarer Singletons. We prefer their potent cocktails such as Suicide (S$18) – a mixture
of McCormick grain alcohol, Barcardi 151, Sambuca and peppermint liqueur.

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HOUSE – The Social Benefits HOUSE – The Social Benefits

A BREATH OF FRESH AIR HOUSE MASSAGE REVIEW


by Serena Narain
Just beyond the central car park and Jones the Grocer, stands HOUSE – The
Social Benefits. This green three-storey building occupying over 35,000 square I took the Kajogal massage – touted as the “no-sweat muscle stretch” massage. It was
feet and situated in a little valley, is a respite from the many F&B outlets in the recommended by my colleague who had earlier told me, “You practise yoga right? It
area. Conceptualised and run by Spa Esprit to be a place where "people can meet, should be easy for you, though they’ll probably turn you upside down at one point.”
catch up, rejuvenate, relax and chill out with their best of mates", HOUSE boasts
a spa, eatery, bar, lounging areas and a whole bunch of arty activities. Having missed a few yoga classes, I was only too happy for someone to do my
stretching for me.
Meet with… artists, writers, jewellers and other creative types via the Adopt an
Artist programme. These guys are, essentially, given a space to exhibit their works. My massage therapist, Christine, carefully pointed out her every move. She stretched
A recent exhibition featured Arlene Rieneke – an illustrator – in collaboration with my body using a combination of 20 yoga poses from salvason to halasan. All the while,
Books Actually to produce limited-edition notebooks with illustrations by Rieneke. she promised that the stretches would oxygenate and lengthen my muscles, making
The next exhibition is in February 2008. Every now and then, they’ll hold flea them younger and leaner. Although I felt overstretched during some poses, Christine
markets that attract quite a following. Check website for details. was in tune to my body’s needs at all times. It was refreshing to lie back and let
someone contort my body in various yoga positions for a change. My tight and aching
Catch up… with friends over desserts at BARRACKS. We thought that the best muscles felt looser and relaxed after the massage.
part was the quirky and fun menu, which was decorated by plastic soldiers stuck
on the front cover. The Green House, a glass extension filled with herbs and If you are a yoga newbie, don’t worry, you’re in capable hands here. And no, Christine
plants, is good for private tea-parties. Speaking of tea, we liked their flavoured never did turn me upside down during my session.
tea blends such as Muah Muah Tea (chocolate-raspberry, orange safflowers and
chocolate chips) and Hip Hop Chai (vanilla, cardamom, pepper and clove).
GETTING THERE
Rejuvenate… at their award-winning spa (Best Day Spa of the year at the 2007
AsiaSpa Awards) on the second floor. The rooms, decorated by local artists, look Car:
out to the wild greenery and have oversized Louis Vuitton trunks doubling up as From Orchard area: head towards Holland Road; go past British Council and Minden
closets. While the rooms are pretty, they are best known for their massages: Road; turn into Dempsey Road. Follow the road, look out for ushers.
Kajogal Massage (S$120 for 60 minutes, S$180 for 90 minutes) combines yoga
with massage; House Proud (S$120 for 60 minutes, S$180 for 90 minutes) – Parking:
a Tui-Na massage accentuated by black pepper and ginger. For something The main square at Dempsey Hill is one big parking lot. If you can’t find an empty
personal, the Apothecary Bar sells oils, lotions, scrubs and masks blended to slot, try the Valet Parking Service (kiosk next to Margarita’s); Opening Hours: 6.30pm
your specifications by Aromatherapists. to 1am (Daily); S$5 per car, Drive Home service available at S$50 per location.

Relax at… CAMP which serves, apart from the usual beers and cocktails, Shuttle Service:
alcoholic desserts such as alcohol-laced milkshakes. The 100-metre outdoor Operated by HOUSE. The mini bus will pick you up from bus stops outside Gleneagles
wooden deck gets you close to untrimmed wilderness while you can rest on Hospital, Thai Embassy, Orchard Boulevard and opposite Botanic Gardens and stop
beanbags. Humidity-challenged folks can retreat into the industrial-looking lounge in front of HOUSE (S$2 per adult, S$1 per child; payment by cash or EZ-link card).
areas with vintage furniture (check out the chairs!), rough unfinished columns and
criss-crossing wires ending in naked bulbs. Best on weekends when DJs spin Public Bus Service:
house, tribal and tech. Drop off at the bus-stop in front of Samy’s Curry Restaurant (look out for the neon
signboard) and walk in. It takes about 15 minutes to walk to Dempsey Hill.
Dempsey Road, Blk 8D, Singapore 247696; Opening Hours: 10am to 9pm (Sundays to Wednesdays),
10am to 1am (Thursdays to Saturdays); Tel: (65) 6479 0070; www.dempseyhouse.com.

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