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SOCIAL MEDIA
SINDHU NAIR
FASHION EDITOR DEBRINA ALIYAH
DEPUTY EDITOR EZDHAR IBRAHIM ALI
SENIOR CORRESPONDENT AYSWARYA MURTHY
SPECIAL CORRESPONDENT AARTHI MOHAN
PHOTOGRAPHER
ROBERT ALTAMIRANO
SUB EDITOR SHELLEY KNIPE
MANAGING EDITOR
VENKAT REDDY
HANAN ABU SIAM
AYUSH INDRAJITH
MAHESHWAR REDDY B
FREDRICK ALPHONSO
MANAGER MARKETING SAKALA A DEBRASS
ASSISTANT MANAGER MARKETING HASSAN REKKAB
MATHEWS CHERIAN
SONY VELLATT
A H M IRFAN
SENIOR MEDIA CONSULTANT DENZITA SEQUEIRA
ASSISTANT EVENTS MANAGER JASMINE VICTOR
BUSINESS HEAD
PRATAP CHANDRAN
SENIOR DISTRIBUTION EXECUTIVE BIKRAM SHRESTHA
DISTRIBUTION SUPPORT ARJUN TIMILSINA
BHIMAL RAI
BASANTHA P
SENIOR ACCOUNTANT
CHIEF EXECUTIVE
COMING UP
G Talk
While we were dashing away from the desert heat in the last two months, something
momentous happened across the ocean in the city of New York. The first ever menswear
fashion week took place under the umbrella of the Council of Fashion Designers of America
(CFDA) as an addition to the already established Pitti Immagine in Florence and Pitti Uomo
in Milan. The becoming of the stylish urban man is for one, a profitable proposition for the
industry, but second, it is a sign of the new generations pursuit of individual style.
The exciting moment for us, while reviewing the thousands of looks intended for men, was
recognising how well these pieces would look in our own wardrobes. The bomber jackets,
the slouchy pants, the perfectly tailored shirts, and even the stiff formal tuxedo jackets,
would fit in into our rotation of outfits. In fact, if you were to take the runway models
gender out of the equation, there is no obvious distinction of sex-appropriate clothing
for some of the collections. The rise of a gender-free era in fashion has been brewing
steadily in the past decade: men are embracing tight-fitting silhouettes that nip at the
waist and hemmed capris with sandals, while women look glorious in three-piece suits.
Our fashion editor, a prime example, is a big fan of shopping for sweaters and shirts in the
mens department.
This is a different movement from androgynous dressing, as there is no desire to look
like the opposite gender, but rather it is a convergence of fashion trends and its norms.
Consider that at one end of the spectrum is the highly traditional technical suiting for
men while at the other - are perfectly cut feminine dresses for the female form. Now
in the middle, lies the meeting point of urban style, where silhouettes are not genderspecific and free for all.
With that thought, we draw on some of the strongest collections hitting stores this season,
including those of Bottega Veneta and Dior, where the meeting point between masculine
and feminine is blurred. It is a liberating thought, and who knew it would have come from
the sexism-riddled fashion industry?
EDITORS PICK
WE ARE MARVELLING AT THESE
CUTE DISNEY PRINCESS BAGS FROM
REGIONAL BRAND CEECODE.
DESIGNED BY CYNTHIA PENNIKIAN,
THESE TOTES ARE NOW AVAILABLE
AT FIFTY ONE EAST LAGOONA
MALL. THE BRAND IS A PURVEYOR
OF STATEMENT PIECES WHICH IS
PERFECT FOR MONOCHROME
OUTFITS OR JUST TO SHOW
SUPPORT FOR A PRINCESS CLOSE
TO YOUR HEART.
18 \ TRENDS
3
SAVE
VS
SPLURGE
BACK TO
BLACK
SAVE
1 Leather cowboy sandals, QR350, Zara, Landmark Mall.
SPLURGE
1 Denim overalls, QR1,691, Alexa Chung for AG Jeans,
Net-A-Porter.
Porto Arabia.
GLAM / ON OUR
RADAR
SEPTEMBER 2015
22 \ TRENDS
SWAROVSKI MIDDLE EAST EXCLUSIVE
As an extension to the watch collection
presented at Baselworld this year, Swarovski
has launched a special edition exclusively for
our region. I was enthused by the idea of
extending some existing lines and interpreting
them with an extra touch of sparkle, which I
hope will please women from the Middle East,
explains Nathalie Colin, the brands creative
director. Comprising three designs, the special
issue portrays a reinterpretation of two iconic,
bestselling designs: the fashionable timepiece
Aila Day, and the feminine and playful Lovely
Crystals. Aila Day Double Tour is available in a
combination of gold plating, brown leather and
brown dial. Its double-wrap strap is particularly
easy to mix and match with other cuffs and
bangles, for an off-the-moment stacked wrist
look. The collection includes two luxuriant
takes on the ever-popular Lovely Crystals, in
light gold-plated and rose gold-plated bracelet
variations, with moving crystals encased in the
face. The collection is now available in stores.
AIGNER METROPOLITAN
After the success of its Cybill
One of One Collection last year,
Aigner is launching another
limited edition of the iconic Cybill
bag, to celebrate the diversity and
unique characteristics of cities
worldwide. The Metropolitan
Collection gives life to ten cities,
including New York, Dubai,
London, Shanghai and Doha;
channelling the spirit of a
24 \ TRENDS
26 \ TRENDS
28 \ TRENDS
THE
AMIULET
PROJECT
The go-getter spirit of the Miu Miu
woman has us transfixed every season
as we eagerly await what surprises
Miuccia Prada has dreamt up. As the
playful and whimsical rendition of
its more polished sister Prada, Miu
Miu has always been on top of the
game when it comes to the 'revolving
door' trend of fashion. With a zany
mixed bags of goodies for its AW2015
collection that sees references to eras
from the 60s right through to the
present, Miuccia has set her eyes on
creating something that allows for the
expression of individuality. In comes the
special aMiulet project, a series of bags
proposed as amulets or talismans for the
fashion spirit. Eighteen bags have been
36
TAILORING GOES
INCREASINGLY
ANDROGYNOUS, THE
80'S REVIVAL IS ALIVE
AND KICKING, AND
DUVET-LIKE COATS
GIVE WARMTH.
THE SEASON IS
AN ECLECTIC MIX
OF CLASHING
INSPIRATIONS.
AUTUMN
WINTER
2015
FOCUS / 37
Burberry Prorsum
AW2015 runway
38
EMILIO PUCCI
Peter Dundas wizardry is at its finest in his last collection for Pucci, as he
takes on a new role at Italian house Roberto Cavalli. The Zodiac
Collection explores a glistening starry night, celebrating the symbols of
astrology and the unforeseen powers they behold. Graphic black and
white marks it with a modern urbanity, while also rendering homage to
Emilio Puccis own black and white collection of the late 1950s. Zodiac
iconography is everywhere, creating intriguing, cosmic-laden patterns
that illuminate fade-to-black prints, orbits around silk crepe iconic
T-shirt dresses, and shimmers on a dramatic sweeping cape. The new
trouser silhouette, with an exaggerated wide leg, creates a bold look,
while snug roll-neck sweaters feature three sporty stripes. Evening
pieces exude a Bohemian vibe with gypsy dresses, swing dresses with
pearl fringes, and shiny numbers of crushed micro-sequins.
FOCUS / 39
ALICE+OLIVIA
Stacey Bendet draws inspiration from the Biba-enthused days of swinging
London and the rock and roll era of the Rolling Stones, taking us back to
the fashion and decor of the late 60s and early 70. Texture is the new print
this season, where flowing dresses are accented with lace details, floral
jacquards are shown in mod shift shapes and graphic diamond designs are
seen on wide-leg pants. Layering takes centre stage with an emphasis on
the winter short, often paired with long tops and matching jackets that are
artfully styled at Bendets hand. Extravagant long coats and pants come in
regal jacquards, while a lengthy brocade vest in gold and blue jacquard with
matching pants and a mock neck topmock necks, especially in lace, form
one of the key looks. Mongolian furs are shown over printed dresses, while
trench coats with fur and leather details are paired with graphic printed
shorts. A black wide-leg tuxedo looks 70s chic when paired with a silver
embellished mock neck top. This season is about personal expression. It is
about bold femininity. It is about glamour. The clothes have a true rock and
roll vibe, while simultaneously being very romantic, says Bendet.
40
DIOR
I wanted that feeling of sensory overload in the collection, explains Raf
Simons. With this animalistic, powerful woman, wearing a new kind of
camouflage. And through the idea of animals and an abstraction of
their patterns, Raf embraces the primal and the patterned, to convey the
message of a liberated and hyper-natural world for women. The feminine
tailoring gives away to over-sized masculine elements, in forms of
blazers and double-breasted overcoats, while rough masculine tweeds
and wool felt comes in opera coats, and long-line outerwear. Abstract
animal patterns appear in knitted jacquard body suits and body harness
dresses, while pelts of Canadian fox detail give rise to a real animal
touch. A continuous narrative from the past seasons garden of flowers,
Raf moved this collection into the animal realm, referencing the 1947
Christian Dior, where leopard print came to life.
FOCUS / 41
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN
In the spirit of the rose, Sarah Burton takes the notion of the female
form and deconstructs it to discover the darkly romantic woman
underneath. Her silhouette grows organically in three dimensions, as
strong and natural as a rose; a symbol of strength and fragility, forever on
the brink of dishevelment. This is a collection steeped in the frayed
nature of reality, and the beauty of imperfection translated through
eaten-away lace, skeletons of dresses, frayed coats and jackets, poetic
knits and laddered lace. In colours of crimson, black, deep burgundy and
silver, highlight pieces include pleated leather skirts and dresses,
engineered lace cut-out knitted dresses with laddered pleated ruffles,
distressed and shredded silk rose cape coats, 3D leather rosette dresses,
and exploded petal-printed organza dresses with frayed edges.
42
MOSCHINO
Its no surprise that Jeremy Scott sent Looney Tunes and friends down the
runway this season, after his previous showings that shot Sponge Bob and
Barbie into the fashion-sphere. The classic cartoon characters are juxtaposed
with edgy hip hop streetwear, drawing on the rise of urban culture in
mainstream dressing. Colourful, attention-catching and surely not for the
faint-hearted, sweaters come emblazoned with bright logos, while denim
patchwork is contrasted with shiny gold details. Pitch in a shot of sportswear:
basketball tank tops, hockey jerseys, and baseball stripes. Quilted leather and
nylon puff jackets find root in military and construction work wear, paired with
embellished knee-high boots and safety helmets. And what is street culture
without graffiti? Scribbles appear haphazardly all over evening dresses of all
forms - a sexy off-shoulder kimono number, a ladies-who-lunch A-line piece
and a ballgown worthy of a wedding, complete with matching gloves.
FOCUS / 43
ETRO
Veronica Etro brings forth a collection that circles her familys twin
pursuits: the world of home interiors and fashion. Ornate wallpapers, rich
tapestries and luxurious upholstery textiles, provide a lush canvas and new
creative playground for beautifully made clothes. The swirling motifs of
furnishing fabrics are produced through weaving, printing and rich
embroideries, while graphic geometrics, inspired by carpet patterns, create
a soft optical effect. Paisley makes an appearance within the deep folds of
pleated dresses, with a splayed skirt. A mlange of different materials
jacquards, velvets, sequins, and printed silks are patched together to
create rich, new tapestry effects. A denim jacket is newly configured in
slices of five different haberdashery ribbons. Coats are a bricolage of
mohair, embroideries, jacquards, or suede, leather and exotic skins. Sharply
cut shapes are clean and exacting, allowing for precise silhouettes.
44
FOCUS / 45
BOTTEGA VENETA
This is not about meticulous dressing, but taking a bit of a bolder approach
when it comes to pattern and colour, says creative director Tomas Maier.
The collection explores the possibilities of beautifully made clothes that
express your own individual creativity. In giving rise to a nonchalant sense
of style, Tomas puts together unexpected combinations, to highlight a
personal take on dressing. The palette is dominated by bright shades of
green, teal, yellow, red, and byzantine violet, and is finished off with pale
colours of petal pink, camel, and mist. Materials are luxurious, as always with
the brand, wools that are compact and in various weights, matte technical
crepes and jerseys, and denim. With a little crossover from the mens
collection, the silhouette is precise with dominant pants and shoulders. The
new Monaco bag juxtaposes a rigid flap with a soft body, while shoes are
square-toed, multi-buckled, and low, for the woman on-the-go.
46
FOCUS / 47
LANVIN
The homage to Jeanne Lanvin at the Museum Galliera museum made me
feel the need to go back to my own roots, to Morocco, where I was born,
says Alber Elbaz. This is a collection evoking the spirit of a nomad travelling
into the dry and warm desert of Morocco. A lean and oversized silhouette
that is both masculine and feminine, theres a certain element that is both
raw and precious in the constructions. Pieces are collarless and button-less,
like a vest in oversized Tibetan goat, or a long sharp-edged blanket coat. The
welcoming warmth of the desert comes to life through the colour palette of
honey, pomegranate, cinnamon, and the grey and black of sun-baked earth.
Under striped woollen capes, brocade chiffon dresses come with
passementerie belts, silk braiding, plaited tassels, toggle fastenings and gold
cords. The season also sees the launch of a mini version of the houses
Sugar bag, which has been reworked for practicality. Two pockets provide
space for the essentials, especially as a companion for travelling.
48
FOCUS / 49
FENDI
Karl Lagerfeld contemplates on decades of collaboration with Fendi and
presents a collection that is meant to take the brand into the future. It is all
modern, and dictates relevancy to a new way of dressing for the current
generation, one of the more successful efforts by brands to connect the past
to the present. Colours of rust, saffron, and geometric prints, are inspired by
the Swiss artist Sophie Taeuber, with cuts that are straight and long. The
materials structure the silhouette with the play of appliqud leather panels
on the side of a skirt, while patchwork fur introduces a new graphic element
to the coats. Dresses and puff jackets are voluminous, shearling warms up
the bottoms of the trousers, and leather breastplate detail white shirts.
The houses 3Baguette bag also gets a new update with the 3Baguette Chain,
a boxy rendition that comes with a chain handle. The update is concurrent
with the vision of the collection, for a young and contemporary woman
with a cool and urban attitude. The double FF buckle has been innovated to
rotate into tiny scattered lines, to open and close the bag, giving the FF logo
a functional element, to its decorative predecessor version. Crafted in
leather, the bag comes in a variety of pop colours and embellishments,
while the chain is available in both gold and silver.
50
Muse
COLLECTION
FASHION / 51
The monochrome palette serves as the perfect backdrop for
the designers architectural cuts, featuring dramatic trapezeshaped tops and cape dresses. Wadhas woman has always
cultivated a sense mystery, favouring restrained feminine
dresses and separates. This can be seen in the artful placement
of a cut-out to highlight the wearer's back, or the contradiction
found in a high-buttoned shirt rendered in gossamer fabric.
52
FASHION / 53
Her signature hand-embroidered
geometric patterns and latticework
cut-outs, are part of the designers
ongoing exploration of unique surface
embellishments and techniques.
54
MIND
OVER
METAL
STRONG AND BOLD PIECES THAT
EVOKE ARCHITECTURAL LINES AND
INDUSTRIAL RAWNESS GIVE NEW
MEANING TO ACCESSORISING.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
FASHION / 55
56
says. It was also familial ties that helped; Monicas father runs
an industrial workshop, working with wood, metal and tools.
After studying at the Gemological Institute of America in
jewellery design, I continued my training in my dads workshop
where he taught me a lot about the manufacturing process.
he brands debut collection, themed
Concrete Jungle, paid homage to New York
by reinterpreting the citys skyline. Working
off the facets of aquamarine stalagmites,
Monica recreated the stones in brass,
through a complex process using metal
bars and a milling machine, resulting in the
signature faceted spikes. This is when my
affair began with skylines and architecture, evolving into pieces
like the Kavanagh cuff and the Empire choker, both inspired
by the tip of landmark buildings of the Art Deco period, she
says. In Buenos Aires, Monica fell in love with the majestic and
imposing Kavanagh building, while the Anuket collection finds
roots in the goddess of the Nile River. She is considered the
Lady of Heaven, who used jewellery as a sign of power, beauty
and femininity, and to offer protection.
FASHION / 57
58
IN THE MARKET
SPANISH MARKETS COME TO LIFE WITH THE DEBUT COLLECTION OF DINA KHALIF.
BY DEBRINA ALIYAH
FASHION / 59
60
FASHION / 61
Lebanese
designer, Dina Khalif, taps into the vibrancy
of Spains heart with her Autumn Winter 2015
collection, that finds its soul in the hustle and
bustle of Spanish markets. The fashion and
accessory designer moved to Madrid half a
decade ago, after falling in love with the city.
In this debut fashion collection, Dina presents
modern and feminine silhouettes that are
adorned with prints of her own illustrations,
with lively scenes of crowds, floral motifs and
stylised interpretations of market food.
The colour palette is reminiscent of the
shades of fruit and vegetables found at market
stalls, and the collection is a carefully edited
selection of key wardrobe pieces, including
long-line shift dresses, sweetly tailored
separates with matching prints, and ladylike
tops with playful details such as peplum frills.
Matching accessories include printed scarves
with delicately hand rolled edges and limitededition handmade necklaces that echo the
motifs from the prints.
62
FINISHING
TOUCH
FASHION / 63
64
Q&A
65