TEXTILE

FINISHING

INTRODUCTION

Dyeing and printing is not the ultimate steps

Something is required to make the fabric more
suitable for end-use
Quality of the fabric in terms of appearance,
handle, functionally enhanced by some physical
means or by chemicals
Therefore, ultimate value addition is done to the
fabric by finishing

WHAT IS FINISHING

??????

Finishing is a final process given to a textile material

to
Give a good appearance
Desirable feel
Impart certain durable properties
Stiffness
Softness
Wash and wear finish
Water repelling finish
Fire proof finish etc.

To impart some desired functional

properties

CLASSIFICATION

OF FINISHING

Classification according to the nature of finish

According to the nature of Finish

Physical or Mechanical Finish

1) Calendering
2) Sanforizing etc.

Chemical Finish
1) Mercerization
2) Easy care finish etc.

Physical or Mechanical Finish

Mechanical / Physical finishes involve specific physical
treatment to a fabric surface to cause a change in the
fabric appearance
Also known as dry finish

Compacting (Shrinkproofing)
Calendaring
Raising (Napping, Sueding)
Shearing
Polishing
Corduroy Cutting
Decating

Chemical Finish
Chemicals are used followed by curing or drying
Also known as wet finish

CLASSIFICATION

OF FINISHING

Classification according to degree of permanence

According to degree of permanence

Permanent
Finish
Durable Finish
Semi - Durable
Finish
Temporary
Finish

DEFINITIONS

Permanent Finish: Usually involve a chemical change in fibre

structure and do not change or alter through out the life of the
fabric
Durable finish: Usually last through the life of the article, but
effectiveness becomes diminished after each cleaning; and near
the end of the normal use life of the article, the finish is nearly
removed
Semi-durable finish: Last through several laundering or
drycleanings and many are renewable in home laundering or
drycleaning
Temporary finish: Are removed or substantially diminished the
first time the article is laundered or drycleaned

CLASSIFICATION

OF FINISHING

Classification according to performance

According to Performance

Aesthetic Finish Improved /

Altered Appearance
1. Calendering
2. Fulling
3. Mercerization
4. Napping and sueding
5. Plisse
6. Shearing

Functional Finish Improved /

Altered Performance
1. Antiseptic
2. Antistatic
3. Crease resistant
4. Durable press
5. Flame resistant
6. Mothproofed
7. Shrinkage control
8. Soil release
9. Water and stain repellent
10. Waterproof

Aesthetic Finish

These finishes modify the appearance and / or hand

or drape of fabrics

Functional Finish

These finishes improve the performance properties

of fabrics

AESTHETIC FINISHES

Aesthetic Finishes modify the appearance and

/or hand or drape of the fabrics.
Fulling
Mercerization
Napping And Sueding
Plisse
Shearing
Softening
Stiffening

FUNCTIONAL FINISHES

Functional Finishes improve the performance

properties of the fabric ; like durability,
strength etc.
Antimicrobial/Antiseptic
Antistatic
Crease resistant
Durable Press
Flame Resistant
Mothproof
Shrinkage Control
Soil Release
Water Proof/Repellant

WOOL FINISHING ROOT

COTTON FINISHING ROUTE

SILK FINISHING ROOT

SYNTHETIC FIBRE FINISHING ROOT

COMPACTING - SHRINKPROOFING

COMPACTING - SHRINKPROOFING
Controlled residual shrinkage is an important
quality parameter for many fabrics. For example,
excessive shrinkage is undesirable for fabrics to
be made into garments.
Here, the residual shrinkage should be less than
2% otherwise the garment will not fit after it is
laundered.

WHY FABRICS SHRINK ???

Crimp
Thickness of yarn
Stretching Tension.

SANFORIZER

Mechanical compacting is one method of reducing residual

shrinkage. The process forces yarns closer together and
the fabric becomes thicker and heavier. As a result of
this, the net yardage yield is reduced.
A Sanforizer is a fabric compactor developed by Cluett
Peabody. The term Sanforized, is their registered
trademark and is used to market fabrics that meet
certain shrinkage specifications. The term Sanforized is
now generally accepted to mean a fabric that has low
residual shrinkage and the term Sanforizing is used to
describe shrinkproofing processes.
The process, consists of a range where the fabric is first
moistened with steam, to make it more pliable, run through
a short tenter frame (pup tenter) to straighten and
smooth out wrinkles ,through the compressive shrinkage
head and then through a Palmer drying unit to set the
fabric.

FABRIC SAMPLE

SANFORIZING

RANGE

COMPACTOR

HEAD

The key to any compactor is the head where force is

applied to move parallel yarns closer together. More
fabric must be fed in than is taken off.
A Sanforizer uses a thick rubber blanket running
against a steam heated cylinder as the compacting
force. The thick rubber blanket first goes over a
smaller diameter roll which stretches the convex
surface of the blanket.
Fabric is metered onto the stretched blanket and
the fabric and blanket together come in contact with
the steam heated cylinder. At this point, the
stretched rubber surface contracts to its original
length and then is forced to contract an additional
amount as it forms the concave configuration of the
heated drum.

Since the fabric is not elastic, an extra length

of fabric is thrust between the rubber blanket
and the heated cylinder. Friction between the
rubber blanket and steel drum force adjacent
yarns to move closer together until the unit
length of fabric become equal to the unit length
of rubber blanket it rests on.
Heat is created by constantly stretching and
relaxing the rubber blanket. The blanket is
cooled by spraying water on it after the fabric
exits from the unit..

COMPACTER

HEAD

The degree of shrinkage can be controlled by

the thickness of the blanket. The thicker the
blanket, the greater is the stretched length at
the bend. A longer length of fabric will be fed
into the compactor causing the degree of
compacting to be greater.
To be effective, the degree of compacting
needed should be predetermined ahead of time.
This is done by characterizing the shrinking
behavior of the fabric by laundering. The degree
of compacting should not exceed the degree of
shrinking otherwise over-compacting will cause
the fabric to "grow" when relaxed. This is as
much a disadvantage as is shrinkage.

DECATING

This process is mainly carried out on wool by

exploiting its elastic properties in hot and wet
conditions by the direct action of the steam on
the fabric.
1) dimensional stability;
2) setting of pile after raising;
3) reduction of possible glazing effect after calendering,
thank to the swelling caused by steam blown on fibres;
4) modification of the hand, which is much more consistent
after the treatment;
5) pre-stabilisation to autoclave dyeing

SEMI-DECATING

Semi-decating is a bach process requiring three steps:

1. winding the fabric onto a perforated cylinder between a cotton decating apron,
2. steaming and followed by cooling the fabric
3. unwinding and batching the finished fabric.

The fabric be wound onto a perforated drum between the

interleaving cotton decating apron to form a reasonably thick roll.
Steam is forced through the roll (inside - out) for several minutes to
provide moisture and heat.
Compressed air is then blown through the roll in much the same
manner as the steam to remove some of the moisture and cool down
the fabric. To insure that the effect is uniform from the inside to
the outside of the roll, the fabric and blanket are rewound onto
another perforated drum so that the outside layers become the
inside layers and the cycle is repeated.
At the end of the cycle, the fabric and blanket are separated and
wound into individual rolls.

CONTINUOUS DECATING

WATER REPELLENT FINISH

WATER PROOF FINISH

WATER

REPELLENT FINISH

Water repellent are chemical finish

Resist the penetration of water into or through
the fabric
Permits the passage of moisture or air through
the fabric
Methods

The yarns are coated with water repellent material

like wax
The water repellent do not permit the water drop to
spread and penetrate
Could be of durable and non-durable types

Non-durable repellents are easily removed in

laundering or drycleaning
Non-durable repellents do not provide
satisfactory resistance to oily liquids

Durable repellent finish can be either repellent

to water or oil or both
Flurocarbon compounds have excellent durability
to both drycleaning and laundering

WATER

PROOF FINISH

A water-proof fabric, unlike a water repellent fabric, is

completely moisture proofed
The fabric is coated or laminated with a film of natural or
synthetic rubber or plastic, such as vinyl or polyurethane
Water proof fabrics are not necessarily more desirable than
water-repellent fabrics

Water proof fabrics are uncomfortable

Water proof fabric possesses a rather firm, non-rapable hand

PARAFFIN WAXES

The oldest and most economical way to make a fabric

water repellent is to coat it with paraffin wax. Solvent
solutions, molten coatings and wax emulsions are ways of
applying wax to fabrics. Of these, wax emulsions are the
most convenient products for finishing fabrics. An
important consideration in making water repellent wax
emulsion is that the emulsifying system not detract from
the hydrophobic character of paraffin. Either nonrewetting emulsifiers or some means of deactivating the
hydrophilic group after the fabric is impregnated with the
finish must be used.
Paraffin wax melts and wicks into the fabric when the
fabric is heated. This will cause most of the fibers to be
covered with a thin layer of wax, especially those that are
exposed to water, and the fabric will have excellent water
repellent properties. The major disadvantage of wax water
repellents is poor durability. Wax is easily abraded by
mechanical action and wax dissolves in dry cleaning fluids.
It is also removed by laundry processes.

WAX

EMULSION COMPOSITION

A typical wax emulsion consists

of paraffin wax as the
hydrophobe, an emulsifying
agent, an emulsion stabilizer
(protective colloid) and an
aluminum or zirconium salt to
deactivate the emulsifying
agent when the fabric is
heated.

SILICONE

WATER REPELLENT

Resinous polysiloxanes,
Are more resistant to abrasion and less soluble
in dry-cleaning fluids or laundry products.
Aqueous pH is maintained between pH 3-4,
stable emulsions can be prepared. When these
emulsions are applied to a fabric with a tin
catalyst (e.g. dibutyltin-dilaurate), the Si-H
group hydrolyzes and condenses to a threedimensional resinous polymer, making the fabric
highly water repellent.

APPLICATION

TO

FABRICS

Silicone finishes are applied to fabrics either from

an organic solvent or from water as an emulsion.
When cationic emulsifiers are used to make an
emulsion, the finish may be applied by exhaustion
since the negative fiber surface charges attract
positively charged particles. Generally however,
silicone water repellents are co applied with a durable
press finish. Durable press resins enhance the
durability of the water-repellent finish.

Silicone repellents are also used to make upholstered

furniture stain repellent. Chlorinated solvent
solutions are sprayed onto upholstery by the retailer
as a customer option. The fabric is resistant to water
borne stains such as coffee and soft drinks.

FLUOROCHEMICAL REPELLENTS

Fluorochemical repellents are unique in that they

confer both oil and water repellency to fabrics.
The ability of fluorochemicals to repel oils is related
to their low surface energy which depends on the
structure of the fluorocarbon segment, the
nonfluorinated segment of the molecule, the
orientation of the fluorocarbon tail and the
distribution and amount of fluorocarbon on fibers.
Commercial fluorochemical repellents are fluorinecontaining vinyl or acrylic polymers. This is a
convenient method of affixing perfluoro side chains
to fiber surfaces that can orient air-ward and give a
reasonably close packed surface of -CF2- and -CF3
groups.

RECIPE

A typical formulation for

polyester-cotton rainwear and
outerwear is given.
The finish is applied by padding
the formulation onto fabric,
drying at 120C and curing 1-3
minutes at 150-182o C.
The fabric will give a 100 spray
rating initially and an 80 rating
after 5 home launderingtumble drying cycles. An 80
spray rating is expected after
one dry cleaning cycle.
In addition, oil repellency
rating of 5 initially and 4 after
laundering or dry cleaning is
expected.

SPRAY TEST

100 - No sticking on wetting of upper surface

90 - Slight random sticking or wetting of upper surface
80 - Wetting of upper surface at spray points
70 - Partial wetting of whole of upper surface
50 - Complete wetting of whole of upper surface
0 - Complete wetting of whole upper and lower surface

FLAME RETARDANT FINISH

FLAME RETARDANT FINISH

When solid materials are heated, physical and

chemical changes occur at specific temperatures
depending on the chemical make-up of the solid.

Thermoplastic polymers soften at the glass transition

temperature (Tg),
Melt at Tm.
Both thermoplastic and non-thermoplastic solids will
chemically decompose (pyrolyze) into lower molecular
weight fragments. Chemical changes begin at Tp and
continue through the temperature at which combustion
occurs (Tc).

Limiting Oxygen Index (LOI). This is the amount of

oxygen in the fuel mix needed to support combustion.
The higher the number, the more difficult it is for
combustion to occur.

NONDURABLES FLAME

RETARDENT

1. Boric Acid/Borax.
2. Diammonium Phosphate and Phosphoric Acid
3. Sulfamic Acid and Ammonium Sulfamate

DURABLE FLAME

RETARDANT

1. Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)Phosphonium
Derivatives
Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl) phosphonium Chloride
(THPC)
b. THPC-Urea Precondensate
Tetrakis(hydroxymethyl)phosphonium Hydroxide
(THPOH)

2. N-Methyloldimethyl Phosphonopropioamide
(PYROVATEX CP)
3. Phosphonic and Phosphoric Acid Derivatives

Limiting oxygen index (loi)

Is the minimum concentration of oxygen,
expressed as a percentage, that will support
combustion of a polymer. It is measured by
passing a mixture of oxygen and nitrogen over a
burning specimen, and reducing the oxygen level
until a critical level is reached

CALENDARING

CALENDRING

Calendaring is a process where fabric is compressed

by passing it between two or more rolls under
controlled conditions of time, temperature and
pressure.

It is a type of mechanical finish

Produces different types of surface appearance

1.
2.

3.
4.
5.
6.

Simple calendering
Glazed calendering
Cie calendering
Embossed calendering
Moir calendering
Schreiner calendering

OBJECTS

OF

CALENDERING

To improve the fabric handle and to impart a

smooth silky touch to the fabric
To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness
To reduce the air permeability by closing the
threads
To increase the luster
To reduce the yarn slippage
To increase the opacity of the fabric
Surface patterning by embossing

1. SIMPLE CALENDERING

It is a high speed, high pressure pressing of fabric (100 yds /

min)
The high pressure flattens the yarn
Smoothen the fabric
Increases fabric lustre (fabric cover increases and more
light is reflected)
Used for woven plain or twill weaves
Over-calendering however is to be avoided
Yarns weakened out due to very high pressure
It is a temporary finish
Yarns return to its natural cross section after first
laundering

2. GLAZED CALENDERING

It is a calendering finish to produce highly glazed / shined

polished cotton
The calender machine used is a friction calender
One cylinder of highly polished steel cylinder rotating at
speed much higher than the fabric passing through it
Fabrics are first treated with starches or resins before
calendering
The spaces between the yarns are thus filled up and glazed
appearance is obtained

Glazed calendering using starch are semi-durable

Glazed calendering using resins are durable

3. CIE

CALENDERING

It is a type of glazed calendering Here, the friction roller

rotates at speed much greater than ordinary friction calendering

The resulatant fabric become highly lustrous and takes on a wet

lookCotton, rayon, polyester, nylon and blends can be given cire
finish
Fabrics are however, treated with waxes and resins before
friction calendering
Highly polished effect is produced
When thermoplastic fabrics are cie finished, they becomes
moderately water-repellent
Due to flattening
Due to partially fusing of fibres

4. EMBOSSED

CALENDERING

It is a calendering in which a three-dimensional

design is created on a fabric
This is done on a special embossing calender in
which the roller cylinder is engraved with the
embossing design
The pattern is then pushed or shaped into the cloth
when the fabric passes between the rollers
Some embossed fabrics are made to imitate more
costly woven jacquard or dobby designs

Embossed patterns of fabrics treated with

resins and cured after embossing are durable
Embossing of fabrics of thermoplastic fibres are
permanent because the heated metal roll heatsets the design

5. MOIR

CALENDERING

The moir finish produces a wood-grain design on the face size

of the fabric
Moir finish can be temporary, durable or permanent
Cotton or rayon moir finish is temporary without
pretreatment with resin
Durable moir finish requires initial resin treatment followed
by calendering
Moir finish on thermoplastic fiber fabrics are permanent if
a heated roller is used for calendering
Methods of producing moie
Using engraved cylinder
Using smooth calender roller

Using engraved cylinder

In this case engraved roller is used on the calender roller
Calender roller flattens one part of the fabric more than
other, causing different light reflectance
The different light reflectance cause moire effect
Definite repeat pattern moie is produced

Using smooth calender rollers

Two fabrics, each face to face, are fed through the calender
Ribbed fabrics are mainly required for this
The high pressure on the calender rolls causes the rib to
squeeze into each other in certain areas
Creates light reflectance pattern which produces moie
effect
The effect is completely random and has no specific pattern

6. SCHREINER

CALENDERING

Schreiner calendering produces a low, soft-key lustre on the

fabric surface
Distinct from the high glaze of the glazing calender or the
lustre shine of the simple calender
To produce this effect, one of the steel cylinders of the
calender is embossed with fine diagonal lines. These embossing
are barely visible in naked eye
Widely used on cotton & cotton/polyester sateen
Schreiner calendering may be permanent, durable or temporary
finish
Is permanent if the fibre is thermoplastic
Is durable if the fabric is resin treated but not cured
Is temporary if the fibre is non-thermoplastic and not
treated with resin

FULLING

During the traditional milling operation, fabrics of combed,

carded or blended wool (nonscoured, scoured or carbonised
and neutralised), at about 40C, are soaked and in presence of
special surfactants, are subjected to continuous pressure both
in weft and warp direction. Under these conditions, wool
fibres tend to felt, thus causing fabric shrinkage and a
subsequent dynamic compacting. After this operation, the
material must be washed to remove dirty water and the
chemicals used.
Fulling is a permanent finish
Used in wool fabrics
Gradual or progressive felting of wool
Done by carefully and controlled scouring or laundering
The resultant fulled fabric is more compact and more
smoother
Woollens are frequently heavily fulled
Fabrics of worsted are usually very lightly fulled

MILLING

MACHINES

NAPPING

It is a mechanical finish

Fibres being raised from woven/knitted fabrics by rotating,

bristled, wire covered brushes
Overall effect is a raised fibres from fabric surface
Example: cotton flannel, rayon flannel, woollen and worsted
napped fabric like kersey, melton

Napped fabrics have softer handle

Better insulation properties due to more air entrapment

Mainly used as blankets, winter clothing

RAISING (NAPPING)

MACHINE:

1: ROLLER; 2: ROLLERS EQUIPPED WITH HOOKS;

3: FABRIC;4: NIB CLEANING BRUSHES;5: FABRIC TENSION ADJUSTMENT

RAISING

THE FACE AND BACK OF THE FABRIC:

A) SCHEME; B) VIEW

Problems are

Low resiliency and hence premature flattening occurs

Nap can be partially restored by frequent brushing

Subject to pilling

Rapid wear at abrasive points (like sleeve ends, elbows,

button holes etc.)
Not recommended for hard wear

SUEDING

It is a mechanical finish

Similar to napping

Produces a soft, suede-like surface

Sand paper like material is used instead of

rotating wire covered cylinder

PLISS

Pliss is the name of the finish as well as the fabric produced

with this finish

Permanent and chemical finish

Sodium hydroxide is printed on cotton fabric as a paste

Fabric shrinks only where the sodium hydroxide is applied,

producing a puckered effect

Pliss fabric do not require ironing

When the sodium hydroxide is applied as lengthwise stripes, the
fabric puckers and takes on the appearance of seersucker

Seersucker
Lengthwise stripped puckered effect
Produced by alternative stripes of loose and tight
warp yarns
Plisse is a cheaper imitation of seersucker
Plisse does not have that depth degree of pucker that
is common to seersucker
Plisse puckers stretched out flat but seersucker do
not

SHEARING

A process to used to cut off surface fibers on

fabrics
Uniforms the surface of napped fabrics to provide
uniform pile height
High-speed cutting machine cuts the piles similar to
that of a lawn mower
The blades in the machine are stationary and the
fabric moves through the cutting blade

STIFFENING

Some fabrics need to be made stiffer and more crisp as per as

the end use

Stiffening agents are applied to the cloth to build up the

following properties
To increase the weight of the fabric
To improve the thickness
To improve lustre
But, their effect is temporary and once the fabric is
washed, most of the finishes are removed

STIFFENING

Stiffening agents
Starches finishing of cotton cloth. Ex: potato , wheat, corn
Dextrines used for dyed and printed fabrics. No undue
effect on the dye or print.
Natural gum mainly used in printing as well as finishing
process
Modified cellulose CMC
Resins

Acid stiffening
Fine yarn cotton fabrics can be finished to be both stiff and
transparent by a process known as acid stiffening. It involves rapid
immersion in sulphuric acid, followed by immediate neutralization in sodium
hydroxide. The finish is permanent. This finish is also known as Organdi
finish or Parchmentisation.

SOFTENING

Required for more pleasant hand and better

drapability
Fabrics are harsher and stiffer because of their
construction or due to some prior finishing process
Softening can be done by either mechanical or
chemical process
Simple calendering softens hand, but it is temporary

Silicone compounds are used mostly as softner

Silicone finish is a durable finish and require curing

Different types of emulsified oils and waxes can be

used but they are semi-durable finish

Different types of softners

Anionic softners
Cationic softners
Non-ionic softners
Reactive softners
Emulsion softners
Silicon softners

Anionic softners
This is not fast to wash
Compatible with resin
Used in temporary finish with starch and cationic
product
Ex; Sulphonated oils, fatty alcohol sulphates etc.
Non-ionic softners
Have excellent stability against yellowing
Not fast to dyeing
No effect on in the shade of dyestuff

Cationic softners
Substantive to cellulosic material
Therefore, remain on cloth for few washes
Produce yellowing on white fabrics
Compatible with resins
Reactive softners
Durable softners
React chemically with the OH groups of cellulose
High cost
Yellowing of treated fabric
Toxic

Emulsion softners
Popular because it reduces the loss of tear strength on
resin finish
Fast to washing
Give fuller appearance

Silicon softners
Recently most used softners
These are the manmade polymers based on the frame
work of alternate silicon and oxygen bonds with organic
substituents attached to silicone

MECHANICAL SOFTENING

MACHINE

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

How??

Making the fibres more absorbent (hydrophilic)

Permitting better wettability for improved soil removal
Done by using hydrophilic finishes
Facilitates soil release during washing
Prevent soil redeposition
Also, reduce static charge by maintaining moisture on the
fabric surface
Thus soil attraction during wear can be reduced

Mainly observed in polyester fabrics

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

What is soiling of textiles?

Textile material getting attracted to dirt or soil

Development of static charge electricity to
hydrophilic textiles, making them prone to soiling
Re-deposition of soil during washing
The soils cannot be readily removed
Hydrophobic materials are not wetted properly
during laundering

SOIL RELEASE FINISH

What is soiling of textiles?

Soil release finish is a chemical finish

This permit easy removal of soil with ordinary laundering

Hydrophilic fibres and fabrics with resin finish are not easily wet able

Hence, stains of oily nature are not removed easily

Soil release finish increases the hydrophilicity of the material and

increases wetability
Soil release finish also improves the antistatic properties, fabric
drapability and comfort

WRINKLE RESISTANT FINISH

WRINKLE

RESISTANCE FINISH

The ability of the fabric to resist the formation of crease or wrinkle

when slightly squeezed is known as crease resistance fabrics

The ability of a fabric to recover from a definite degree from creasing is

called crease recovery

Finish to reduce the undue wrinkles on fabric or garments

Cotton, rayon and flax are more susceptible to wrinkle

Wrinkle occurs due to the hydrogen bonds of the cellulosic molecules in

the amorphous region

Due to application of heat or moisture, the hydrogen bond breaks and new
hydrogen bond occurs at new dimension
Therefore wrinkling can be reduced if the hydrogen bond formation can
be reduced

Formaldehyde
DMU ( Di-methylol urea)
DMEU (Di-methylol ethylene urea)
DMDHEU (Di-methylol di-hydroxyl ethylene
urea)
Modified DMDHEU (Di-methylol di-hydroxyl
ethylene urea)

APPLICATION TECHNIQUE

Dry Process
The classic process: the fabric is impregnated by
means of a padding unit (the quantity of finishis
tuned by modifying the liquor concentration and the
squeezing ratio) and dried at 100-120 C in a stenter.
The cross-linking process occurs in the stenter, at
temperatures varying according to the type of crosslinking agent used (generally 4-5 minutes at 150-160
C).
Double treatment: the fabric is impregnated with a
softener and dried at 100- 130 C.

HUMID PROCESS
The fabric is wetted by means of a padding unit
with a cross-linking agent and a catalyst solution;
Then 6-8% of residual moisture is removed from
cotton (or 10-15% from other staple goods.) The
fabric is then wound up on a roll, covered with a
polyethylene sheet and left 16-24 hours to rest
at ambient temperature.
Strong catalysts must be used for this process.
The final effect depends on the residual
moisture: in case of low residual moisture
content, the results will be similar to those
obtained with the dry process whereas if the
residual moisture content is high, the result is
very similar to the cross-linking effect on wet
substrates.

FRAGRANCE FINISH

FRAGRANCE FINISH

Microencapsulation is a useful method for protecting various

functional finishes on textiles. As the capsules do not have
affinity to fabrics, a binder should be used to fix the
capsules for the purpose of finish durability.
Conventional fixation is a thermal process, in which a fabric is
cured at 130-170C for 1-10 minutes to make the components
of the binder cross-link together, and tightly fix capsules on
the fabric.
During curing, however, the aroma inside capsules can be lost
through quick evaporation and swelling to escape or break the
capsule. The loss from capsules can seriously reduce the
amount of aroma on the fabric and decrease the durability.
An aroma capsule finished cotton fabric treated by a thermal
curing process can only bear 25 wash cycles. To avoid the
thermal process, an UV resin can be used to fix capsules
because the resin can be cured under UV light at low
temperatures in seconds. If a cotton fabric is finished with
the selected aroma capsule and UV resin, and cured under the
optimal conditions, the aroma function can withstand 50 wash
cycles. Whiteness and stiffness of the finished fabrics were
also examined.

ANTISTATIC

FINISH

ANTISTATIC FINISH

Synthetic fibres of hydrophobic nature are prone to generation

of static charges
This problem is very troublesome while processing the fabric at
high speed in dry state
Antistatic agents are used
Antistatic agents absorb small amount of moisture from the
atmosphere, thus reducing the dryness of the fabric
Antistatic finishes are semi-durable
Washes out at several launderings or drycleanings
Permanent antistatic effects are obtainable manufactured
fibres which are specially modified for this purpose (Ex: Antron
III nylon fibre by Dupont & Cadon nylon fibres by Monsanto)

Pilling

Anti-pilling finishes:
Pilling is an unpleasant phenomenon associated with spun
yarn fabrics especially when they contain synthetics.
Synthetic fibers are more readily brought to the surface
of fabric due to their smooth surface and circular cross
section and due to their higher tensile strength and
abrasion resistance, the pills formed take a long time to be
abraded by wear.
With knit fabric, two more problems occur, viz., "picking"
where the abrasion individual fibers work themselves out
of yarn loops onto the surface when garment catches a
pointed or rough object.

Permanent Anti-static effects:

Antistatic finish for synthetic textiles to avoid static
charge build up & give a natural feel.
Anti-static effective chemicals are largely chemically inert
and require Thermosol or heat treatment for fixing
on polyester goods.
In general Thermsolable anti-static agents also have a good
soil release action which is as permanent as the anti-static
effect.
Anti-static finishes may also be of polyamide type being
curable at moderate temperatures

Non-Slip finishes:

Synthetic warp and weft threads in loosely woven fabrics

are particularly prone to slip because of their surface
smoothness when the structure of fabric is disturbed and
appearance is no loner attractive.
To avoid this attempts are made to give the filaments a
rougher surface.
Silica-gel dispersions or silicic acid colloidal solutions are
quite useful and they are used with advantage in
combination with latex polymer or acrylates dispersions to
get more permanent effect along with simultaneous
improvement in resistance to pilling or snagging.
These polymer finishes are also capable of imparting a soft
and smooth handle to synthetic fabric without imparting
water repellency

WASHES

Alters the look by different washing procedures

Mainly used for denim and similar items to have a faded
and worn appearance
Have different methods
Stone washing
Acid washing
Enzyme washing

Stone wash
Stone washing transforms a new unworn garments into
used-looking faded garments

Done in garment form

Pumice stone are used

No chemicals are used for fading

Pumice stone are added to the laundry with the

garments which abrade the garment
Worn look
Faded colour
The garment also become softer and obtain a casual
look

Acid wash

No acid is used
Pumice stones are soaked with oxidising bleaching
agent (sodium hypochlorite)
Also known as frosting or ice washing

The other procedure is same as that of the stone

wash

Enzyme wash

Cellulase is used
Added to pumice stone or can be used separately
While using pumice stone soaked with enzyme the garment
is laundered with the pumice stone
The cellulase attacks and weakens the cellulosic fibre
The surface colour of the denim comes out and colour fades
off

ROT

PROOFING OF CELLULOSE

Cellulosic fibres are made up of carbohydrate

which is a food for fungi and microorganisms
The attack of these organism on the cellulosic
materials cause rottening of them
To protect the cellulosic materials from such
hazards rot-proof finishes are applied on cotton

Organo-lead componds

Advantages
It does not affect the handle of the fabric
It retains 100% of the fabric strength
It does not discolour the fabric

AAA

Hg containing antibacterial agents

Can be used in cotton as well as other cellulosic materials