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Retail Intelligence
Introduction
The global appetite for luxury retailing is growing and London is at the
forefront of this growth. Mayfair, St Jamess and the surrounding streets
have seen a rapid expansion of the luxury offering in recent years,
cementing their role as the leading destination for luxury retailing in
the Capital. New West End Company and Heart of London Business
Alliance, which together represent over 1,000 businesses, recognised
this growth and as a result two years ago created the London Luxury
Quarter to transform the area into a valuable entity that can be
marketed globally.
Jones Lang LaSalle has been commissioned by the New West
End Company and Heart of London Business Alliance to define the
boundary of the London Luxury Quarter and to identify and understand
its make-up and future growth prospects.
Map 1 Global expenditure on luxury branded products by region 2005 2015(f) ($bn)
Europe
82.8
2005
117
2010
175.6
Japan
2015
38.1
Americas
2005
57.6
74.7
2005
2010
2015
10
2005
222
2010
320
2015
499
2015
Asia Pacific
(excl. Japan)
2005
Total ($bn)
2010
110.8
29.4
Year
39.4
36.2
17.6
2010
33.7
2015
2005
75
2010
144.1
2015
Why London?
A leading global city with destination appeal
London ranks number one in the world in terms of international
visitors, with close to 17 million expected in 2012, up 1.1% on 2011
(Mastercard Global Destination Cities Index, 2012). In Jones Lang
LaSalles Global 300 ranking, which ranks global cities based on
population GDP, connectivity, corporate presence, office stock and
real estate investment volumes, it comes in third, just behind New
York and Tokyo but ahead of its European counterparts Paris and
Madrid.
Londons diverse DNA is undoubtedly its unique selling point.
Investors, retailers and shoppers are not only attracted to the city
because of its position as a top global financial powerhouse, but also
because it is steeped in history and has a strong heritage.
As a retail destination, London ranks alongside the best leading
global cities, including New York, Paris, Milan, Hong Kong and
Shanghai. Its diverse offer has global retail appeal and it is often the
first port of call for international brands when looking to expand into
Europe. According to Jones Lang LaSalles 2011 Cross Border Retail
report, London ranks number one in Europe, boasting the largest
number of international brands when compared to 55 other leading
European cities.
There are a whole host of drivers that make London attractive and
successful, but understanding its make-up is crucial for anyone
looking to invest in the city, be it a retailer looking to open a
flagship store, or an international investor looking for investment
opportunities.
Best of British
Set within the heart of London, and surrounded by the heritage
and culture of Mayfair, the Quarter showcases some of the best
of British luxury retailers. From the Mulberry and Alexander
McQueen flagships stores on Bond Street, to the Stella McCartney
and Matthew Williamson stores on Bruton Street, it is the go-to
destination in London for those seeking the latest British trends.
Savile Row, famed all over the world for its traditional mens bespoke
tailoring, is anchored by Gieves & Hawkes, a brand internationally
recognised for its quintessentially British style and craftsmanship.
British jeweller Asprey, a brand synonymous with refinement and
luxury, and menswear retailer Alfred Dunhill also have stores within
the boundaries of the Quarter. High-end British fashion brands
Belstaff and Burberry are continuing to embrace their roots by
reaffirming their commitment to the area with new flagship stores.
But competition for space is fierce; Belstaff recently agreed a record
rent for a store in the traditional core.
In total, more than two thirds of the worlds Top 100 Luxury Brands,
as defined by Jones Lang LaSalle, are located within the boundaries
of the London Luxury Quarter. This figure reflects a 42% increase on
2005, showing the growth in the sector and the attractiveness of the
Quarter to global luxury brands. The strength of trade in the area has
resulted in some luxury brands now being multi-sited. Jimmy Choo,
Cartier, Burberry, Ralph Lauren and Vivienne Westwood are just a few
notable retailers that have representation from more than one store.
The powerhouse luxury brands dominate much of the Quarter,
particularly in the traditional core. However, the growth of the area
has not only been driven by the big luxury houses, but also by
demand from smaller luxury brands looking for space alongside
the well-known premium brands. South Molton Streets proximity to
the core has recently attracted French boutique chains Maje and
Aubade, whilst Orelar Brown, a tailored mens beach and swimwear
boutique has opened on Vigo Street, hoping to take advantage of its
location adjacent to Savile Row. In addition, British designer Alice
Temperley has recently agreed terms to open a store on Bruton
Street alongside her UK fashion counterparts Stella McCartney
and Matthew Williamson. Hay Hill and Grafton Street have also
attracted the attention of the acquisitive smaller luxury brands. High
end fashion brand Vanessa Bruno and luxury interior designer Anna
Casa have recently taken spots in these locations.
T
he Arts Club on Dover Street, originally founded in 1863,
underwent a complete renovation in 2011. It was totally
transformed into a truly world class establishment for those
involved in art, literature or science to meet, exchange ideas,
entertain and relax.
T
he Ritz Club, featuring an exclusive casino and private gaming room,
sits within The Ritz London hotel, attracting high net worth gamers.
Other: Various
A
uction Houses the Quarter is home to Sothebys, Bohams and
Christies, three of the most distinguished leaders in the auction world.
M
otoring a number of luxury car brand showrooms are located
within the confines of the Quarter, from Bentley, Bugatti and Rolls
Royce to Jaguar and Porsche.
Y
achting Grafton Street is home to Camper & Nicholson,
the global leader in all luxury yachting activities. Princess and
Sunseeker also provide yachting services within the Quarter.
S
port British gun-maker Holland and Holland trades on Bruton
Street, selling bespoke sporting rifles and shotguns and Berretta,
one of the oldest firearms manufacturers in the world, is located
on St Jamess Street. Purdys and William & Son are close by in
Mount Street.
In addition to the affluent local resident population, London and the Quarter has significant international appeal, which in recent years has
been boosted by the depreciation of Sterling. Map 3 shows where the year-on-year growth in international spend (outside of Europe) is
coming from, and ranks each market in terms of contribution to total UK sales.
11%
2
Hong
Kong
13%
8
US
Thailand
Middle
East
9%
1
India
-2%
10
18%
5
9%
1%
3
China
Russia
Fed
Brazil
7%
4
Malaysia
16%
7
Nigeria
-1%
9
% change year-on-year
Jan-Jul 2011-12
Ranking (sales)
West End
China 16%
Kuwait 7%
Russia Fed 8%
Mayfair
Russia Fed 8%
US 9%
Jermyn St
US 16%
Nigeria 15%
Russia Fed 10%
The global appeal of London is soaring, particularly in the Far East. Map 5 ranks the top three markets that are fuelling the growth in
international sales across the same geography.
Map 5 Top 3 international markets fuelling growth across London and the
Quarter (year-on-year)
Bond Street
1. Qatar - 79%
2. Indonesia - 65%
3. Japan - 58%
West End
1. Qatar - 78%
2. China - 50%
3. Malaysia - 35%
Mayfair
1. Indonesia - 148%
2. Qatar - 102%
3. UAE - 99%
Jermyn St
1. China - 108%
2. Pakistan - 74%
3. India - 20%
Retail investment
and development in
the Quarter
Retail investment goes from strength to strength
The London Luxury Quarter is an attractive market for investors thanks to constrained supply,
sustained demand and the rise in rents and values over recent years. As such, retail investment
activity has been on a general upward trend over the last 10 years.
Fig 1 Total Value of Retail Transactions in the
Quarter from 2002 - 2011
12
700,000,000
600,000,000
10
No. of Transactions
400,000,000
6
300,000,000
4
200,000,000
Total Value $
500,000,000
100,000,000
2002
2003
2004
2005
2006
2007
2008
2009
2010
2011
Address
Price in $ (000)
Purchaser
2002
43,000
Tiffany & Co
2003
54,300
David Daly
2004
Burlington Arcade
128,300
2005
75,160
Quinlan Private
2006
47,500
Winrunner Ltd
2007
15 Berkeley St
63,600
Invista Real
Estate Investment
Management
2008
119,200
David Daly
2009
114,000
Hermes
2010
107,000
Giuseppe DeLonghi
2011
255,300
LVMH
Looking at the Quarter as a whole, map 6 details and ranks the top investment deal by street in terms of $/ft from the last five years.
6 Maddox St
$2,787/ft2 (2007)
1 New Bond St
= 7 Avery Row
$12,765/ft2 (2011)
$1,792/ft2 (2012)
2 Old Bond St
$9,780/ft2 (2007)
8 Berkeley St
$1,584/ft2 (2007)
9 Dover St
5 Burlington Arcade
$1,071/ft (2011)
2
$3,471/ft2 (2004)
= 7 Albemarle St
$1,762/ft2 (2012)
3 St Jamess St
$8,185/ft2 (2011)
Size
(ft)
Details
Stage
14,000
50,000
Office Development
Pre-planning
16,500
25,000
Under construction
60,500
Pre-planning
49 51 Conduit Street
& 24 Savile Row
31,500
Crossrail, 64 72
Bond Street
291,000
34 36 Bruton Street
20,000
40,000
Retail Development
Chanel
10
Burlington Arcade
37,500
Retail Development
Pre-application
11
St James Gateway
100,000
23,000 ft retail,
57,000 ft office &
18,000 ft residential
Due 2013
12
20,000
Case study
Grosvenor - Mount Street Public
Realm Improvements
Aim
To create a distinctive and vibrant destination for
high quality shopping that attracts not only domestic
but international high end shoppers and brands to
Mount Street.
improving the street furniture benches/bins etc.
better street lighting
clear pavements, greenery
enhancing the existing architecture
improving linkages with other streets
Opportunities and
challenges
London A Leading Global City
Retail
The strength of the Quarter as a luxury shopping destination has
been underpinned by the diverse mix of brands. From the start-ups
to the established, it is a sought after location for luxury retailers
across the world. British-born brands have historically provided the
backbone to the Quarter, and have played a crucial role in shaping
its success to date.
With the increasing influence of the global luxury powerhouses, it is
vital that the Quarter continues to provide opportunities for the new
and emerging brands in order to maintain the vibrant and unique
character that has shaped its evolution. In a location steeped with
British heritage, it is also essential that support is given to domestic
brands so that the unique charm of the area is not diluted by the
arrival of international brands.
Development
The Quarter is still uncharted territory for a number of top luxury
retailers. French fashion house Chloe, and Italian fashion
designers Valentino and Roberto Cavalli, are key omissions,
as is American born style icon Tom Ford. However, the lack of
appropriate stock together with the dominance of the luxury houses
has made it difficult for new retailers to open in the traditional core
of the Quarter.
As such, many retailers are pursuing opportunities in the
surrounding streets. Mount Street, for example, an area traditionally
dominated by antiques shops and galleries, has transformed into a
key luxury destination with the arrival of brands including Christian
Louboutin, Loewe and Nicholas Kirkwood. As a result, small hubs of
luxury fashion have emerged, fuelling the growth of the Quarter.
With the forecast growth of the Global Luxury Market and the
increasing attractiveness of London, demand for space in the
Quarter is intensifying. As such, the recent trend for retailers to
locate in new contiguous areas of the Quarter will continue, and
could potentially see growth beyond the boundaries of its definition
today. As small fashionable areas such as Boxpark in Shoreditch
emerge across the Capital, it is essential that the Quarter remains
competitive. Therefore, redevelopment of appropriate stock must
continue so that opportunities for new entrants exist.
Looking beyond the current boundaries of the Quarter, it is possible
to spot future growth potential. The planned redevelopment of
Grosvenor Square is likely to fuel improvements in the area to the
north east of the Quarter. The relocation of the US Embassy to
Battersea will make way for a new development that will kick-start
regeneration and could lead to an extension of the Quarters current
boundary in the future.
In conclusion
The London Luxury Quarter can deliver. Set within a
unique, historic and culturally diverse backdrop, it is
a destination with international appeal. Not only does
it showcase some of the top global brands, but its
assorted mix of retail, office, residential and leisure
space sets it apart from any other luxury destination in
the world. With projected growth of the global luxury
market, there are significant opportunities for the Quarter
to grow and extend beyond its current boundary. By
building on its existing proposition, it will continue to
attract occupiers, investors and shoppers alike.
Contacts
Jones Lang LaSalle
Guy Grainger
Head of UK Retail
Tel: +44 (0)207 318 7824
Email: guy.grainger@eu.jll.com
Jace Tyrrell
Director of Communications
Tel: +44 (0)20 7462 0680
Email: jace.tyrrell@newwestend.com
Martin Thomas
Director Central London Retail
Tel: +44 (0)207 318 7802
Email: martin.thomas@eu.jll.com
James Brown
Head of EMEA Retail Research
and Consulting
Tel: +44 (0)203 147 1155
Email: james.brown@eu.jll.com
Karen Baines
Head of Marketing & Communications
Tel: +44 (0)20 7839 3409
Email: karen.baines@heartoflondonbid.co.uk
Jennie Beattie
Senior Retail Research Analyst
Tel: +44 (0)207 087 5523
Email: jennie.beattie@eu.jll.com