Mattie EdwardsHewitt

A CHINCHILLA

CLOAK

Wraps

in the History

of Costume

BY JANET DUER
colors and
lay down a demand for certain materials,
HILE
society may
Among primitive people, such as
styles.
rule that the higher the standing
the races that inhabit countries where
inadividual the
of a civilized
-JI;i
clothing
the climate does not demand
more frequently does he change
in the
is
it
as
it is not worn
for warmth,
an
the custom of wearing
his clothes,
its
ornamental
of
civilized world, because
outer garment by all people in all ele
to satisfy
or supposed-or
character-real
ments of society has been made universal,
Generally
ideas of modesty.
civilized
if not from
through climatic necessity,
the more simple the-- race the
speaking,
traditional use. .The modern wrap, there
greater the love of ornament- and it is in
of. the shawl,
fore, is but the glorification
the wearing of numerous, necklaces, ear
of former
the cape; the cloak or mantle
-anklets and'
amulets,
times, and of the skins of animals of rings, bracelets,
that
of this character
jewelry
used for the other
even an earlier period-all
in
than
ratherlies.
interest
primitive
of
history
same purpose throughout.the
or
-protect .
,clothing. that- either would
In view
and warmth.
man-protection
what
illustrate
To
bodies;
their
ornament
evolu
note
the
of this it is interesting to.
warm
of
the
subject
to
given
is
heed
little
and
or
coat
wrap
day
tion of the present
to see how logically. and how easily it clothing for protection from the elements,.
of
'
the natives
for instance
consider.
gradually became the graceful and com
a
square.
only
wear
who
Fuego,
del
Tierra
now
is.-.
it
garment
fortable.outer
Turning to the age of primitive man, of otter skin, about the'-size of a. handker-.
-not chief, which is laced across the breast by
the skins, of animals were utilized
strings and can be shifted from side to
warmth
only as a covering to provide
of the
to -the direction
side, according
the
to
but to afford a certain protection
people,.
of
barbaric
The.
ornament
a
wind.
body, for the aborigine was, perforce,
'is. of importance,- as -the dis
however,
hunter, and as such, subjected to bodily
of
tinguishing mark of rank or social status
as *the knowledge
Then
dangers.
men and women.
of
both
of
the utilization
introduced
weaving
.
era' the
the -early Christian.
During
vegetable fibre, crudely woven .strips, of
lines
the
flowing
expressed
orcape
cloak
soon took the form.of the shawl
material
outer.
accepted
the
was
-and
two shawls, up to the of all dress
and by using
these
In the. Sixth century
garment.
armpits and fastening the- ends together
in.
vestments
of
took on the characterover the shoulder, the tunic was evolved.
-together
held
being
use,
Sleeves were then formed by adding a ecclesiastical
jeweled clasps or with brooches-at
third shawl, fitted and shaped to the arm. with
Others were worn with one
the throat.
the front of the garment was sewn
When
in end of the cloak draped over the opposite
up or left open only a short distance
advanced,
the centuries
As
the centre near the neck, it became a shoulder.
the cloak became the "grand garment"I
tunic, and when open the entire length
and was heavily banded with ornament.
of the front, a coat.
an outline such as this, as a Veil draperies also often took the place
Having
cloak during this
of the more elaborate
and
of trimming
the variation
basis,
soon became a feature of the period.
elaboration
century, the jacket,
In the Eighteenth
its
each era bringing
fashion,
passing
339

ART

340

PORTRAIT

OF A YOUNG
TIANO

MATRON.
ROMAN
DFL PIOMBO

BY

& LIFE

SEBAS

made
long over the hips and fitted to
the figure, was dictated by the trend of
This jacket form of
fashion in costume.
garment was 'fur-trimmed, chiefly with
and orna
embroidered
ernine heavily
The
reap
with
mented
jacket
jewels.
century
peared as late as the Fifteenth
and with it the high collar rather than
the earlier square cut or round neck.
the
century
in the Seventeenth
Later
ruff and collar found their most elaborate
time, as did
in Elizabeth's
expression
the entire -wardrobe of those at c'ourt,
raiment which vied with that -of the rest
and
ex
in the splendor
of Europe
jewelled'
and
of
embroidered
travagance

stuffs.
century, capes with'
In the Eighteenth
as the headdresses
favor,
found
hoods
of the period would not readily admit of
wearing hats, and great full cloaks were
worn to cover the paniers and quilted
Light
of the mode.
satin petticoats
silks
and
the
carried
gauze scarfs were
much
had
cloaks
and
and satins of gowns

gold, silver and colored silk needlework.

About

I835 heavy mantles,

capes and

and
braided
much
appeared,
pelisses
came the
fringe. Then
trimmed with
its
shawl with
return of the V-shaped
fringed edges, a survival of an accidental
occurrence in weaving, when, in the early
looms, the threads of the warp were left
While the shawl was the simp
hanging.
lest and earliest of wraps, its popularity
was not to be diminished by the changing
for it became
fashions in Great Britain,
Ireland and
of
garment
national
the'
forerunner
the
was
in
and
Scotland
Wales
of the characteristic Scotch mantle.
reign, India
the Victorian
Throughout
to be worn,
continued
shawls
Paisley
and
of a
mantles
for
vogue
the
then followed
with
capes
silk
short
type,
cumbersome
fronts, and
pointed
long, fring-trimmed
short
the
close
fitting
'6o's,
the
in
later,
jacket.
Zouave
the
coat- and
After the passing of some fifty years,
during which women's wraps conformed
in character to the width. of skirt and size
of the sleeves of the gown worn beneath
them, the modern wrap has developed
gar
and voluminous
into a becoming
solt
a
with
fur
trimmed,
ment, invariably
throat,
the
rolling collar that envelops
feature
the dominating
and constitutes
fur
the
That
of the entire garment.
out
may yield itself more readily to the
line of the- throat and head, it is often
sewn in narrow strips on chiffon, having
the effect of a single pelt and yet the
pliability of a soft, light weight material.
Be it for summer or winter wear fur is
in trimming
preference
the undeniable
for wraps for evening wear, which may
have as their foundation material, metal
brocade of satin or velvet, or a one-toned

velvet of some rich coloring. Chinchilla,

sable, ermine and the fox furs are among

thosemost used.
of day-time wear we
In the matter
dress
have, indeed, turned to primitive
in the acceptance- of leather as a material
for motor coats and in the use of fur for
have
We
garment.
an entire outer

learned, like our predecessors that these

textures, and these only can withstand
vwinds of northern
the biting winter

countries.

Mattle EdwardsHewitt

A CHINCHILLA

CLOAK