Lookout Qatar

38 This and That

A new collection of Apple Watch from
Herms; The Temple and what it
represents; The Freya from Mulberry;
Daniela Karnuts goes Elizabethan;
Louis Vuittons changed look;

Aigner has a Doha bag;

and Montblancs e-Strap.
44 Market Report

The regions designers have gone

off-kilter this fall with bright colors,
unexpected materials and
quirky inspirations.
46 Food Matters

Indian celebrity chef Sanjeev Kapoor
serves traditional dishes,

and plays with our taste buds,

at the Signature Meli Doha.
48 On Heritage
Pal Zileri gets new form of patronage,
the preservation of a simple sentiment
that the Italians just cut suits better.
54 Art Matters
The Frieze Art Fair aims to embrace a
larger fan following, moving away from
the niche group of wealthy foundations
and private institutions.

Arena Qatar
74

MIDDLE EASTERN MIX Thomas

Zipp's work will be at the Frieze
Fair in London next month.

Page 54

On the Verge

Fire Station announces the names

of 20 artists who have been selected
for its maiden Artist in Residence program.
What follows is a smorgasbord
of media and messages.

80 On Art

The British contemporary artist Anish
Kapoor turns the very controlled gardens of
the Chteau de Versailles upside down.

Yousuf Jassem Al Darwish

Chief Executive

Sandeep Sehgal
Executive Vice President

Alpana Roy

EDITORIAL

ART

MARKETING AND SALES

T, THE STYLE MAGAZINE

THE NEW YORK TIMES

Senior Art Director

Business Head

OF THE NEW YORK TIMES

NEWS SERVICES

Deputy Art Director

Manager Marketing

Editor in Chief

General Manager

Creative Director

Vice President, Licensing and

Syndication

Venkat Reddy

Hanan Abu Saiam

Assistant Art Director

Ayush Indrajith

Managing Editor

Senior Graphic Designer

Deputy Editor

Photography

Sindhu Nair

Ezdihar Ibrahim Ali

Fashion Editor

Debrina Aliyah
Senior Correspondent

Ayswarya Murthy

Maheshwar Reddy
Rob Altamirano

Frederick Alphonso
Sakala A Debrass

Assistant Manager Marketing

Mathews Cherian
Hassan Rekkab
Denzita Sequiera
Sony Vellat
Irfaan A H M
Events Manager

Jasmine Victor
Accountant
Pratap Chandran
Sr. Distribution Executive

Bikram Shrestha

Distribution Support

Deborah Needleman
Patrick Li

Deputy Editor

Whitney Vargas
Fashion Director

Joe McKenna

Managing Editor

Michael Greenspon

Alice Ting

Vice President, Executive Editor

The New York Times News
Service & Syndicate

Nancy Lee

Minju Pak

LICENSED EDITIONS

Nadia Vellam

Editorial Director

Photography Director

PUBLISHED BY

Oryx Advertising Co WLL

P.O. Box 3272; Doha-Qatar

Tel: (+974) 44672139,
44550983, 44671173,
44667584
Fax: (+974) 44550982
Email: tqatar@omsqatar.com
website: www.omsqatar.com

Josephine Schmidt

IMAGE COURTESY THE THIRD LINE

Publisher & Editor In Chief

Coordinators

Ian Carlino
Gary Caesar

Arjun Timilsina
Bhimal Rai
Basanta P

COPYRIGHT INFO
T, The New York Times Style Magazine, and the T logo are trademarks of The New York Times Co., NY, NY, USA, and are used under license by Oryx Media, Qatar.
Content reproduced from T, The New York Times Style Magazine, copyright The New York Times Co. and/or its contributors 2015 all rights reserved. The views and
opinions expressed within T Qatar are not necessarily those of The New York Times Company or those of its contributors.

24

Copyright 2015 The New York Times

Lookout Qatar

This and That

Stately Silhouette
Struck by the color palette consistency between her fall collection and the old-world
furnishings of Burghley House, the designer Daniela Karnuts decided to shoot her latest
campaign at the 16th-century Elizabethan abode. The fashion label Safiyaa, named after
Karnuts daughter, is a staple in Qatari wardrobes, favored for its lavish evening pieces.The
latest collections bold jeweled tones are anchored with earthy textures and find symmetry
with the artworks and antique furniture pieces that fill the halls of Burghley House.
Every piece in the house has its place and tells its own story and it gave
meaning to what I wanted to present in this collection, Karnuts says.
Signature elements of long capes, dramatic jacquards and feather appliqus are contrasted
with Karnuts new perspectives drawn from nature: sequins and stone laces. Silhouettes are
sleek and edgy, featuring drop shoulders, cut-out backs and asymmetric lengths,
while the bold capes are fit to throw over anything, she quips. The collection
also marks the introduction of daywear to the usually evening-focused repertoire,
all of which are still handcrafted in the labels private atelier.
It has evolved into an ongoing dialogue with women who think as I do,
Karnuts says. DEBRINA ALIYAH

The Horse and the Carriage

It is a collaboration of two greats, one that merges
Apples unparalleled product innovation with the heritage,
iconography and craftsmanship of Herms,
creating a unique expression of Apple Watch.
Apple and Herms make very different products, but they
reflect the deep appreciation of quality design, said
Jonathan Ive, Apples chief design officer. Both companies
are motivated by a sincere pursuit of excellence and the
desire to create something that is not compromised.
Pierre-Alexis Dumas, Herms executive vice president
in charge of artistic direction, sees this as the establishment
of an alliance in excellence, like horse and carriage,
a perfect team. SINDHU NAIR
T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP : SAFIYA(3); AND HERMS (3)

A new collection of Apple Watch in stainless steel

with finely crafted leather bands in distinctive styles
from Herms has hit the market, and will soon make
its way to the Middle East.

Lookout Qatar

Market Report

Straight Out of Arabia

The regions designers have gone off-kilter
this fall with bright colors, unexpected
materials and quirky inspirations.

Clockwise from top left: Arwa Al Banawi

jacket, QR1,044. Belquis belt, QR600.
Braided Tales bracelet, QR295. Dima
Ayad dress, QR3,680. Deema ring,
QR503. Ceecode bag, QR2,600.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: ARWA AL BANAWI; BELQUIS; BRAIDED TALES; DIMA AYAD; DEEMA; CEECODE

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

50

T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

ALL PRICES ARE INDICATIVE

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT: DINA KHALIF; ENDEMAGE; HOUSE OF NOMAD; L'AFSHAR; NATHALIE TRAD;
MOCHI; MADIYAH AL SHARQI; KAMUSHKI

Clockwise from top left: Dina Khalif

dress, QR1,929, Endemage pants,
QR2,461, House of Nomad crop top,
QR1,004, , LAfshar clutch, QR3,633,
Nathalie Trad clutch, QR5,160,
Mochi headband, QR100 ,
Madiyah Al Sharqi dress, QR9,222,
Kamushki pendant, QR25,532

September - October 2015

51

Lookout Qatar

On Heritage

The New Direction

A new form of patronage is
providing a lifeline to traditional
craftsmanship.

IN THE WORLD OF COUTURE, theres an implicit

relationship between designers and a few selected

clients. These are buyers who amass entire collections as
gestures of appreciation toward the work, thus allowing
designers to continue their creative pursuit. It is, of
course, a borrowed practise from the world of art, where
patronage is a familiar concept, albeit an archaic notion.
But the rise in global wealth has extended a new form of
patronage to the fashion industry, one that is less
ornamental but more about giving old soul and
culture a new frontier. In the case of Pal Zileri,
it is the preservation of a simple sentiment:
that the Italians just cut suits better. For his
maiden meeting with the new investors who
had taken a majority share in Pal Zileri last
year, the brands creative director, Mauro
Ravizza Krieger, and his team had
prepared a presentation of financial
information to impress. Mayhoola,
CHANGE IS A CONSTANT From top:
the Qatar-based investment vehicle,
Mauro Ravizza Kreigers new vision at Pal
made news in 2012 by acquiring
Zileri is a fresh start for the brand; blue
ponyskin blazer; the Messenger bag is
Valentino and now with a stake in
customizable with personal initials; red
Pal Zileri, it was clearly a
turtleneck sweater in lana-seta-mohair IS
demonstration of the love for all
inspired by Andy Warhol.
54

T Qatar: The New York Times Style Magazine

things Italian. After a short glance at the numbers, the

investors directed their attention to the intangible values
that would shape the brands future. We were taken by
surprise. They wanted to hear about the aesthetics, the
creative work, and how we would go about preserving
the DNA of the brand, rather than the financial
projection we had prepared, Krieger recalls.
The new stakeholders avidity on going back to the
roots of the company and mapping a new direction that
develops and preserves the brands strength. Relatively
unfettered by financial expectations, the strategy
allowed time to rebuild Pal Zileri in a direction that
is solid and enduring. Italian companies are
increasingly outsourcing manufacturing
processes at lower cost, but our investors
are absolute on the principle of Italian
craftsmanship, which is what our brand
truly represents, Krieger says. The idea to
connect the future with the strongest
skillset of the brand the craft and
know-how in menswear came to life
through the Avant Craft concept that
relaunched Pal Zileri in January this year.
Avant Craft was proposed to bridge the gap

ALL IMAGES COURTESY OF PAL ZILERI

BY DEBRINA ALIYAH

CONCEPT RELAUNCH Above: Paolo Roviera

first interned at the brand 15 years ago, and
now he rejoins as CEO; looks from the Fall
2015 collection.

between the old high-hand Italian tradition and the

contemporary voice permeating the world of menswear.
Starting from all the classic cuts, the brand moves into a
high-fashion aesthetic by introducing new ways to wear
jackets and suits. Silhouettes become less formal and new
categories alluding to an urban lifestyle are introduced.
We start from the past, but with modern techniques like
taping, bonding and laser cut. Its utilizing the brands
sartorial finesse to produce collections that are relevant to
the modern man, Krieger says. While theres a rush for
many European labels to define themselves as purveyors of
traditional tailoring, the new Pal Zileri wants to bring the
term Made In Italy to the next frontier.
This is a new chapter in which modern technologies
respond to contemporary needs of the well-informed man,
with sensibilities, proportions and techniques executed by
the hands of Italian craftsmen, says Paolo Roviera, the
brands CEO.
The fall collection hitting stores this season marks the
debut of the new philosophy: a wardrobe with all the classic
hits, but none of the rigid air. A traditional jacket is paired
with stretch leather pants, wool sport jackets are constructed
through taping with not a stitch or button in sight, leather is
bonded with flannel on shirts, and suits that eschew ties
paired with printed shirts. Thats the new attitude in mens
dressing. A play between formal and informal, creating
synergy between all the pieces in the wardrobe, Krieger
says. In true Italian manner, some decadent styles make
appearances, but with a sense of tasteful restraint: a blue
pony-hair blazer and a satin-collar smoking jacket are pared
down with turtleneck tops and leather amphibious boots.

Butter-soft bags take the place of briefcases, while a small

selection of accessories, including shoes, are made in Italys
famed leather region, Veneto. Inside the jacket, the artisan
touch that reminds the wearer of its origins is a special label
carrying the name of the tailor who spent hours constructing
the garment.
Pal Zileris three decade of history also ascribe to quality,
as its archive unearthed a comprehensive collection of
fabrics dating back to the 1970s, when the brand came to life.
When Krieger came on board in 2014, the company had
narrowed its focus so closely to its manufacturing skills that
the archive had become secondary. A curious incident led to
the discovery of the archive book, which Krieger is basing
the upcoming collection on. Old motifs, materials and colors
will be restructured and reinterpreted to suit our new
discreet sensibility, Roviera says.
With the actualization of a solid creative vision, the brand
has begun work on rejuvenating its boutiques worldwide, ten
of which are located in this region. The Middle East is a key
market where Pal Zileri is very well-known for its heritage
and craftsmanship, Riviera says. One of the standalone
boutiques in Dubai will be the first to see a new concept this
fall, and it is a steamship initiative from here on to promote
the dawn of Avant Craft. In the brands newly minted
Milanese headquarters at Via Morimondo, an area familiar
to the fashion collective, Krieger presented his second
narrative for Spring 2016. The runway begins as a moving
conveyor belt as the models presented before they walk the
show. Exuding a futuristic vibe that is so sharp and yet
still human, the new frontier for the modern man is
looking bright.

September - October 2015

55