.

V^'V'

%,/

'^'-^V

%*--/

^--vc^V'

^'

.^^

<'
.

'i^^ "^^ ^^^'.

V^'

Vc^^

o;-^!^^

^'ki^'

.'

.:^^^

xO'^.
^"''^,

oO
"

.^^
,0

A^

'

s-^^

,x-..^

-'<.xN^

c^
<L^<.

ifttVfi^

DIVISIONAL
AND

M E A S U R E AI E N T

EXACT

^^-(

Plf^ftftf^
^fi"'?

'PA

-''fS)

ir*J

*f9

'^^i^ V'f'

"''C'J

"A'f

'Ci

i/'Vl

\A^v>.r,.y^

"'V-'t'

yvrf Mfir s>

/,<-'p

,pij

BY

AV.

()

X T II

CU

[Editor cf Linthicum's Journal of Fashions,]

lf4

PIl^VM ATMMHll^

MHW

T#K.

Containing twenty-seven JDiagramn, explmncitorij of both

Systems, and aeconipanieii by a Jiule^r, wHth nine special
diwisions adapted for JDrafting bij the JDivislonoil System,, and
giving explicit directio)is for Measuring, JBrafling, &c.

i\tw Hlovk
MoKOAN, Comes & Lawiiekck, Stati<im:hs anj) Pui.mkks, No.
1872.

!)

Maiukn Lank.

uV
,15

fi

^
^fi-

/a-9

7fl

INTRODUCTORY TO
M %

%<?^'

mm i^j m

ipji

im

mm

mm im mw mi

v[^| >> tmi

(^

OE mmww'Emm^

When
ujioii

uiiilcrtakini;' tlic ihities devdlviiiL;'

an Editoi- of Fasliions,

my

was not

in

of an oriiiinator and

system or systems for

e.\j)eeted, luit

and not

)raftinL:-.

not only

expressed a determination to

\rse

its

an\' speeial

general

jmlilislier of a

myself within journalistic

eontlne

tiny-

anotlier ])osition,

vet

privileges

system,

for

limits,

jjromulsxa-

preferriiiL:' a

hasis for the ideas

miuiit

fulness

it

was greatly

hampered with

set

restricted
tlieories

not admit of extension

of antagonistic sentiments

on

my

within
fai-

j>art,
its

while

liear

oi'

deter

])eculiai'

of Cutting, and

demand

tiie

metoviewthe

Trade

turn

lieing

that

might

the contact

proper boundaries, to have

freedom

it

so
for

my

it

journal

self

advertisement,

my

system.

for

my mode

if I

for

my

system,

subject in a ditJ'erent

sariU'

l>y

all sufficient

urgent entreaties of

the

mendiers of

caused

range.

metho(! of Drafting, and only the

constanth' increasing

nian\'

its

re-

me from advancing my own

have

hence the desire

leave

to

and realize that

keeping m\' journal

uncontrolled as to

Tile al)ove reasons aj)])eared

light,

a journal's use-

ap])eai'ed tliat

matters coming within

all

more

occasion to ventilate, from time to time.

To me

gai'ding

the

intention to eonie before

Tailoring Trade
that

rfi'taiiily

it

active thought and honest expression,

wotdd not
into

an oi'gan of

concluded to

Most assiuvdly

neces-

j)ulilish

could

without great detriment to other

not,

tluties,

spare time to answer the numerous missives

received,

re(|

tion I'effarding niv

method of

upon consideration,
to

the

myself

manv

nesting special instruc-

Drafting:-,

deemed that

and

justice

seekers of information

and

reipiired the issuing of the present

A\'oi'k Dii Gariiieiit

has taught nic

correct system

the necessity

my

Long exi)ei'ienee

Cutting.

vahu' of a simple and

tlie

Garments

])rat'ting

foi-

N T 11 1 C U M

and

such a system, and

I felt for

eagerness to take long strides on the

me

road to improvement, s])urivd

and

lahor.
testing,

my own

careful

If

my

j)urpose and serve

as a pulilication, ])ro\ided the publishing

of a s\'stem \\as

am

my

oidy aim.

essentially a practical Tailor,

made

eai'n

it

its

my

What

here

liear

rience

aii<l

have

stateil

By

repetition.

stud},

unenviable re|Mitation as
has

e\ cr

with

me

])ai'iiig

been, and

is

now

to justly merit

my

systems,

bestoAV

lictbre,

it.

may

years of exj)e-

have gained

sys-

to claim

right

from others the high (-ncomiums

it.

not

audit

Cutter

souive of ju'ide

Hence,

in pre-

have stinted neither

time nor means to ln'ing them to successful

completion, and arrixc
r(\-i<-lied,

add

to,

many have

estimation

"What

as

di-sire

instead

at

the point

ha\e

these ]iublii-atious to

of detracting

from,

the

doing at

^\'orth

is

on

])lace<l

my

ability.

is

worth

all,

doing well," and as merit only can olitain

and

stistain a jxisition of

nence,

minds

my

<if

unknown.

tests.

make

due

to receive

fail

If

t<i

the
the

ap])re-

they did, the sameness

in

unendurable, and competition

In Tailoring, as in every thing

systems are Avorth

the opinions aitd

else,

to

impossible for every one to

It is

lie

etlbit

])romi-

that experiment with them,

all

would

worth and

systems so percejjtible

thiid< alike.
life

my

has lieen

it

merits of

nni.st

and most zealously have practised

upon

ciation.

being beyond even

efforts as

most sanguine expectations.

tem, and

EM

ST

^'

my

system might answer

that they cannot

wassim[)ly a Tailor by theory, a theoivtical

But

can pronounce the success of the

result of

most

long and

after

to diligent

'

that can best be substantiated by able

That the inventorof a

should

lie

biased

iavor

in its

jiractical
is

theory

natural.

It is

the offspring of his brain, over w hich he has

toiled uncomplainingly, to

When

worthy of him.

it is

make

it

jirove

entrusted to the

colder ciiticisms of others, he watches

anxiously, eager that

it

it

clearly demonstrates

to the discriminate investigatoi' the benefits

he so clearly

and

o\ci'

for every

sees,

underlyingits principles,

each con\'ert

makes,

weary hour past

?]\"ery ANoi-k

can

lie

by loud ])ufhng; but

alone,

it

that can

The reason

in its

invention.

pro]ielled intoiMitice
it

is

conmiand

that so

feels re]>aid

geiuiine w<irth
fixed

attention.

nmnv svstems

float for

a time on
obseurity,

owe

tlie

is

market, ami then sink to

that, as a ^-eneral

tlieir (>ri<;'in to tlieory

Some

touml

lias

made seienee

phih)so[)her's stone, un<l

tlie

ie\eal

treasured seerets.

its

He

om-e

at

liastily illustrates, to his

and

to the ti'ade.

system

is

and j)urehasers are numerous; Imt

it

and

hope of
their

The eause

I'equirt^ments.

defeets,

the

satisfaetorily

it

of

the

from the

l>y

Bacon

says,

oughly and under as varied eiicumstances

time

appeared to the inventor's eyes, he jirovided

a

theory

imagine

to

the trials

all

could

would he

it

failures.

It

successfully

stands to reason that

doing husiness,

system, has facilities

and

piM'fecting,

like himself can

is

this

very

that

foi'

not

su))jected

and therefore, don't comprehend

to,

it

hut he

rectify;

its

Tailor,

])i'(iduring a

thoroughly testing

only others situateil

avail themselves of;

point

and

consider a good

my

ever tried, have

With

husiness.

my

pui-]>ose,

views for general

have

to the purchaser

])ei"sons are ne\"ei- ojx^n to

tui'U

nurst e.xpect

new

dom and

counsel shall not

the hetter, what shall

if

"Time

don't stand

still,

hut

timt% of

and wis-

them

altei'

the end

lie

a]i])ly

e\ils, for

course, alter things to the worse,

to

^"

coiiti-ai-iwise,

so ai'ound that a froward retention

of custom

"And

is

a tiirliulent thing."'

tlie\

times, are

How

otl'

"that surely every medicine

the great innovator; and

moveth

use.

set a vahu', lieliev-

an iniiox'atiou, ami he that will no!

is

trial,

heateii track.

new remedies

All the faults that

tiade.

ha\'e lieeu

and always dread

op])ortunity f )r testing his system as thor-

as a practising Tailor.

Some

ten fold.

is

will rejiay its cost

conviction,

the faet of his laek of

my

Upon my work
it

The\

have acc(>mj)lished

supply

and the non-discovery of them

desii^'uei-, lies in

everything

l)eyon<l

and endiodied

ing

the

liefore

the

in

every possilile contingency,

to

accuracy,

the vain

theie, in

chaiiiie

making;-

sulijected

sent

don't

have

past through seasons of

met the wants of

realize their antieipations, so they lie<iin to

alter here,

place

own

(lesiral)le,

a])j>eai-s

It

now

and came out victorious.

l)Ut

satisfaetion, his ideas,

forth

systems

They have

only.

he

tliinks

])ei'soii

they

thin^',

foundation for the confidence

l)iit

far

my

that re\ei'ence too

a

old

scorn to the new."

sentiments agree with the

above i|notations,
to judge.

much

will

leaxc

my

readers

LINTHirTM'S SYSTEMS.

ii-fcreiifc to

Ill

made

my systems,

have frankly

my

assertions and y-iven

exierienc'e.

Those who have not confidence

comjxdled

not

)ne thinu'

am

expci'iment

to

them, are

in

see that the Coat

with wadding, or the measures

will

from

sleeves,
Roth the
111

And

(I

systt'ius that I've

Thev

it

make nnlined
Jackets with

fitting

clo.se

elastic

of

o-odds

made,

the balance can be weighed

say

excellent plan to

Coats, or long

sure,

ol.taiiied

too large.

lie

It is ail

either.

in

not excessively stuffed

is

niedinm

weight, and kee]) on hand thix'e or four

;

withimt vaunting,)

difierent sizes to ]ut on customers

when

neither will be found wanting.

they are to

W.

O.

LINTHICUM.

measui'ed.

l)e

of the above will result in the

trial

measures

taken

more

being

accurate, and the cost of

tlie

uniformly

Garments

ke])t

for the pr;rpose of taking them, ])aid in a

few weeks by

Take

as i'ew measures as ])ossible;

all

uring

many times
They

ease

is

essentially

measure

care

lie

over

is

to

jxissililf

Garment,

that

commit an

Take

tlic

lireast

it

coi'rect

and my mode of

so very simple, that

Coat of

be taken

oood

necessary

oliscrvcih

except the

olitaiiHMl;

lie

measurini;'

cut

error,
all

it

if

is

hardly

ordinary

the measures

usual cloth thickness,

o\(^r the ^'est.

and

lieginners to practise meas-

before

attem])ting

will thus acipiire aliility,

to

and

with

the

matter

slio\ving
in

h;ind.

Hesitancy and awkwardness, where they

exist, lease
1)11

tlie

an impression of iucomjietency

the minds of customers.

measures

in tlie

Always take

same order, thus avoid-

ing omissions and annoyance to customei's,

in

having

position

Be particular and

irestioiis

wliicli

theivby

correctness,

familiarity

must

and waist,

and

form the habit of taking measures with

ffil4illlli.
order to

new

advise

Draft.

In

saving in alterations.

tlie

to

phu-e

more than
will

not

them

once.

be

the

in

The

same

aliove sug-

injurious

to

some

LI

Cutters

XTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS.

have met, wlio aiv well adv aiieed

of the shoulder to

it is

-j;5

down

inches as

first

the distance

By it S3

W'i"fMi^iM^l
the Coat

First, liave

person to

inches,

on the

liuttoiied

nieasure<l, see that

lie

it

is

well

under the arms, ami that the liaek seam

11])

is in

the eeutre of the Uody. then proreed

to take the length of waist, say ISA inehes.

and

leno-th, ."U

full

inehes,

the eollar seam, or where

Then from

l)e.

ing

])oint,

tio'ht,

and

it

and

uj)

wdnit

of the

in tVont

is

moderately

tajie

eonunoid\

as the first shoulder measure, say

While the inch tape

the ai'm, di'aw

it

I'ight

the liaek to the start-

drawing the
o-et

intended to

is

the same place, liring the

measuring tape down

arm, under

it

starting trom

is

in

'27

moment with

wi'ite

start
it

IH

(say

the scye,

and the whole length 28 inches).

w(dl here to impress the mind of the

It is

student with the impoitance of this

measure.

It is

the only one taken that

liody.

It

very sinqile and

is

is

taken on

ap])lied diicctlv to the Dralt, as

the

last

easily

taken, and will coi-rectlv in<licate the

tion of the cu>-t<imei-, whethei-ei'ect,

])osi-

medium

or stoojiiug.

The

special

measures given aliove are for

the me<linm sized average form.

the customer

lie

eivct,

Should

and his shoulders

inches.

the liack

under

tightness across the blade to the centre of

mind

the

<if

the centre of the

inclined liack. the distance from thecentre of

])osition

(ta.\

see that

known

with the same degree of

the 1>ack, say 28 inches,

and

taken, and then write

ti-oni

hack to the front

starting

original

jiuint at the liack of the neck,

in the art of Cuttiiii;'.

i^

the

for

this measure, Imt (hi not

t<i

the front of the scye, would he

les^than half of the wlnde

say

inches,

1 1

inches,

and the

full

Made measure,

length

still lie

-i:'.

thus diminishing the (pnmtity of

chith on the

Made

half an inch, and adding

that t|uantity to the length of the shouhler

tape and

and should the customer possess a stooping

from the centre of the liack.and diaw

firm, the distance from the centre of the

it

down,) then

across the

I'everse tlie

Made and

the front uf scve.

Before writing

the distance, continue the ta[)e

up

to

hack

down

than

arm

und<'r the

in

front

to the front of the scye will

half of the

lie

Made mea-ure,

greater
say

12

inches, increasing the ipiantity acio>s the

])];i'l('

Ii.ilf

k-iiglli

of the

talcc

alio\c

(lii-ci-tci|

arm

front of thf

ill

ami rcmcml)cr the

of

cciitiv
is

ami

1a|ic,

till-

not

till-

the

from the

distance

front of the scye

till-

<|Uantity

taken, scan

first

no

not

foiiii iiistitie.s tlie

tlie

view, and there

a side

will lc

reverse

tlien

(|iiantit\';

customer closely from

lii>

down

iii'ck

tVuiii tlic

to tlie centre of l)ack,

liack to

tile

lialf

if

iiisuiv t-orrect-

measure twice, as

this

fii-sl,

the

ilcci-easiiiir

To

sliouldt!]-.

jihv.'iys

iicss,

ami

iiK-li,

.III

to the waist,

''<-2

lietween

liack,
I'DJ,

inches, the

hack.

if

far hack,

is

it

will

will

it

too

too

lie

lie t<io

eas\'

from one

matter
to

and

[imlialily

this

]>articular.

start

measure

just

tlie side,

different

and

^vaist

from

socketdione,
o])ening

the

fur

measures

of-

in

the

above the hip-bone.

no o-ood reason wliv a Coat

liy

one system, and

same customer,

for the

in addition to the

and to the Indlow

front, full length,

is

would

height,

in

its

a Vest,

l)y another, entirely

application

and

results.

elc-

the general average (as described above

ami

here published for cutting Vests will

aj)[)reciated, as

too

indicated

if

in

directions for taking measures), the system

the

forward,

loni;',

the form of a customer varies from

liv

it

lie

jiroduces the exact foi'm

the measures.

short.
it

iwn inches

numerous alterations
in

t;ike

-iOi.

lieinii;

will

lie

commit an

t<i

medium

sliouhler, blade, breast

and

l\S,

the same, except the

For a Vest,

taken,

U,

When

arm

far

liy testiui;' the al)Ove,

slee\(',

which, for a

[irecisely

be 30 inches.

and

possible with the surface of the

measure taken

very

lengtli,

already

i'7,

inches^

\ated, and the idliow plaeeil in as straight

as

:;4,

so far

Sack Coat, the measures

lie

Til ere

of the sleeve take in the usual

would

variations on the

the shoulders to (heelliow,

line

For

31.

8(),

waist at

way, from the (cntre of the

32,

should be cut

leiiizth

The measures

waist.

taken will read ]i,

whether or

ditliciiltv in licciding

measure.

The

and 81

hreast,

in

tin;

account

and waist measures over the

eri'or

of

leiitrth

of
the

for

that ha\'e to

Next, take

foiiml

lie

tlie

\'est,

imide
breast

sav

.''6

First,

the

take outside length from

hip-bone

to

the kiiee, say

'J

ttip

4 inches

continue to within one inch of the

say

4'2

inches.

Next, the

insidi^

of

iloor,

seam, from

LT

XTIIICUM'S SYSTEMS.

*
along the line A, with the end mark thus

the c-iotch to within one inch of the floor,

(ThifJ

inches.

3'2

wooih'U instrument,

\x\ih a square or

for the ])ur])ost', \vitli

hy

sold
Avaist

all

sliould l)e taken

measiuv

Trimming

made

Next, the

houses.)

and bottom, 17

.'W;

inches.

so taken will read

-24,

knee

inches,

:V2,

.'iO,

17,

figui'e

and

in

using Divisions

and

.1,

end marked f will be toward the

to

l)endicular

the

and

eye,

so continue

chano'ino-.

In addition to

17,

;;().

all

17.

an<l

corresjiondiug to the shoulder

the

operator, in order to have the figures per-

The whole measure

42,

the

measure, od inches, and the hip (taken

over the largest part)

and mark on Divisions A and

measure

attached, and

tajie

resting at O,

tlie

above Divisions

for

Coats and Vests, the Ruler contains

thirds, tburths, inches,

and

a table

showing

the proportionate shoiddei' tor every breast.

The

Wooden Kuler

work, contains

this
in

tine

the Divisions used

all

Drafting Coats and Vests, and are desig-

nated as follows

Divisions of the slioulder

measure are represented

accomjianying

and E;

the sizes ranging from

is to

F;

36.

Divisions of the waist,

liy letter

sizes

ranging from 22 to 50.

Divisions of

the breast,

by letters G, H, I and J

ranging from 24 to 48

always placed

presents

the

figures

L and

for

example

The

in a jiosition

which

11

of

to

the

i)aiticular

Division being used perpendicular

eye

22.

the sizes ranging from

is

the sizes

and the Division

of the scye measure, l)y letters K,

Ruler

when

Diagram No.

A, B, C,

l>y letters

and

student

how

take,

slio\\s the

Draft a Frock or Dress Coat

bv the measure he

aliove learned

how

to

and which reads as tVdlows: Lfugth

of waist, ISi, full length,

;i4

shoulder, 27

blade (from the centre of back to front of

scye)

IH,

confimieil to

tlie

hack of neck, 23

elbow (from the centre of back) 20^,

length of sleeve, 32; breast,
First,

diaw base

tt>

the

the Ruler

are

at

to be used, place the edge of the Ruler

to

(on Plate

and

Divisions

line

full

waist, 31.

])lace

the end of

* at O,

and niaik

A,

marked thus

3(;

the shoulder measure, 27, on

and B.

Fi'ora (J to o, is lialf of the breast

is

Draw

iiK'lies.

B,

lines

measure,

C and D,

at

shoulder and neck gorge, the holhnv

of the latter always touching line E, at 14.

From

right angles Avdth line A.

From

to

Division G,

30

in

on line B, mark

4,

l)y ])lacing.the

Dividon H),

From

l)y

marked thus f

From

5 to

at

30

.".

to

7,

is

mark

the sign

(^

From

and

(opjjosite

| {inarhed hody Coats

Draw

."),

from

line F,

line E,

from

7 to

2 to 5, a|>])lythe l)lade

measure as

taken on the l)ody from the centre of l)ack

Hold the

to front of the scye, llA.

at

.")

ta])e

and continue the measure up line E,

from 5 to

23 inches, adding one-fourth

<S,

or three-eighths of an inch as an allowance

for

seams,

from S to O.

jiadding,

Now

Draw

ttc.

Cut the hack, and place

tlie l)ack,

line

form slxmlder and side

seams of the hack, as shown

form the shoulder,

ly

line C,

join,

To form

(r,

cut,

and place the finger

where the back and

Diagram No.

9,

to])

in,

(<ir

from

half-incli

portant.

shown

(as

on Plate 3) until the

tance between the points

line, is

side T)ody

in

dis-

O, along the

about the same as between

2 to 5

cither

Form

in

Diagram No.

way would

lie

1).

unun-

the side seam and the scye.

the waist measure trom

3,

allowing

for the fpnmtity taken out at the side body,

and complete the

shown

in the

foiiii

of the body, as

Diagram, to

suit

or

taste

Fashion.
It

will

be unnecessary to

api)ly

the

shoulder or breast measure to the Draft, as

the Rulei- will ]iroduce

them

correctly in

all cases.

Before attempting to Draft the sleeve or

in position to

any other part of the Garment, the opera-

placing line

directly on line

the top of

Diagram.

in the
it

was

and move the

Apply

from 5 to O.

fn^m 13 tor the

it

BB

and

through

Ly

line

from which

waist) ou Division

S,

and draw

jdace the back in the position

dotted

F, l)y ]ilaeing sign

TW.S'), at 3.

I,

C,

side body,

5.

at

31

, at 8,

mark 27 on Division

end of the Ruler, marked

])laciug the

thus

on

a little forward

Division If,)

From

ot* Rulei',

'2.

last ])osition, until

i/i

on

3(i

mark 36 on Division

6,

by

to 13,

pitch of the neck.

1.

placing the end

moving the Ruler

tlie

(piypcmte

ou line C, mark

to 5,

Division H,

at

sign

on

Sfi

]>art

on

and form the

tor should practice this Draft, until he

perfectly

familiar

\\\\\\

the

Ruler

is

and

Plate, 1

LINTHIC

and can

Divisions,

from

prtuluci'

witli'Hit

iut'Uiory,

The

aljove (liret'tions.

the position in wliicli

and

bod}-,

is

it

Drafted to

coiTt'ctly

it

ivfercnce

sleeve

is

the

to

Drafted

is

sewed

tit

tlie

dneing' the correct lengtli of

UM

in

the

to

soye, pro-

back and

fore-

'

SY ST

sleeve

})laced

under consideration,

fore-part

large

Draft,

enough

to shape the slee\ e

and place the back

Draw

position.

j,

line

II

in
at

under the

its

original

angles

right

Turn the Ruler over and

with Hue C.
place

Place a i)iece of paper

cut.)

is

will be Hi

should be done before the

(this

iuclies,

at 5

paralhd with line

mark

frtmi

Place

from 5 to

to

K,

IG

10,

mark

From

10 to 11,

16 on Division L, by placing sign

and tbrm the sleeve head as

Diagram No.

1.

laid

The top of the

must always touch

seam

under the Draft.

operator

If the

Draft the sleeve separate from

the l)ody, he can do so by studying Dia-

and Drafting as follows: Draw

},

A, (from

as

at right

to 2 in

to

1, is

the same distance

Diagram No.

Draw

1.)

angles with line A, (from

to

2,

in

F and

C.

Division K,

1iv

the same distance as from

Diagram No.

From

2 to

mark

"),

[)lacing sign

Draw

1.)

[|

on Division L, and

From

4 to

placing sign

li)

m;!rk

C,

J,

||

From

at 2.

on

1C>

of the slee\e as laid

on Division M,

on Division

down

Tile hollow of the

2.

2 to 4, niai'k

Form

4.

to

lines

16 on

line

at

L,

lii

.">.

b\-

the remainder

Diagram No.

in

under sleeve

should not extend Indow lines

at top,

and P.

and

16 on Division L, and 10

li*.

slight pressure, the lines

on Division K.

at 5, parallel with line F,

on Division M, at

10,

and

(_',

II

II

and by a

j)refers to

is

in the size

or hard chalk for forming the

of the sleeve will be indented on the])aper

line

measure the scye carefully, which

11

Use lead

C.

gram No.

arm seam.

First,

E iM S

||

down

at
in

line F, an^l the fore-arm

above

line

1*^1^,

^i^^igjj

mark

sleeve at 12

at U be raised half an inch

Piafi B^iil f@i

Draw
Plate

1.)

line

A, (see Diagram No.

Lay the corner of the

.'5

on

s(piare at

O, and raise the long arm until the 12 inch

arm

is

one inch trom line A, (as

dotted lines at C,

and draw

slio\\ n

line B.

by

Then

place the side l)od}' in jjosition as shown,

many

and form the

are equal to

mine

the pupil

here

side

plait to suit the curve of the

seam and the customer's

desirable that the

hang

It is

of a Fi'ock Coat

as close to the thighs as possil)le,

produce that

in order to

the

.skirt

hips.

should

skirt

straight.

tageous

l>e

little

when

top of

result, the

cut nearly

round will

and

quite

oi'

advan-

l>e

the hips of the customer are

One

a1ove the average size.

at least

should

over the

hijis,

l>e

and carefully pressed

seam

out.

is

but in most of them,

with a few vague

left

directions for leus^thenino- or shortening the

back,

or

changing the location of the

shoulder point,

&(:.,

conform to equally

to

vague and uncertain measures taken

fi-om

imaginary starting points, in themselves

unreliable and impracticable.

inch fullness

seweil in the "waist

of the Division Systems published

In preparing this System

it

my

has l)een

degree that

it

foi'

aim to perfect

publication,
to such a

it

will be quite

as easy to

Draft a good fitting Garment for an

shaped customer, as
of

])roportions

Cutter's task
his

SjEJE

jDIAGMAM

lines

That which
becomes
Coat

A and B, as in Diagram No. 3.

is

})lait

skirt.

front
iu the

Form

in the

Frock Coat,

Dress and Morning

the plait line D, com-

mencing one inch from

on line B, to suit

the curve of the side seam,

etc.,

and adapt

the

from

to find

the

same

medium

size

a ^vell jiroportioned

and height, and

form of

to this extent,

majority

of

is

one, if all

in

.sha])e

to

No.

in

on

A'ery

unfortunately,

them

common

man measuring
breast,

(as described and

cloth

measures and their applications deal

Imt

It

it.

forc-])art.

\vitli

conformed

measures;

great

f >rwa]tl,

thus far

The

model.

perfect

would be an easy

customers

the front of the skirt to the front of the

Tilt'

one possessing the

4.

the above

Form

for

ill-

Plate

and

across

shouldei', or,

thing

proportionally

waist

illusti'ated
1),

deviate

and shoulder

by Diagram

who

will

stoop

retpiire a greater c|uantity of

the

blade

and

shorter

on account of extra erectness,

require less cloth on the blade and a longer

shoulder.

The following measures

taken,

FicUe,

LINTHICUM

by

ami

aliove,

iiieusuiv

tliiid

tlie

a])plies

to the

point and scye

fui'tlier

back, and shortening

Changes requisite

the liack.

for the

Extra

Erect Figure.

Is'lss lsi I'tss*

my

During
Dra-w

are 27, on Divisions

From O

Draw

to

lines

tlie

C and

B,

to

and

Counter,

From

From

)reast

D, at

measure.
angles

riiilit

to 4, is

8G on Division G.

_*

to

."),

is

;>(;

n to

!),

is

;U on Division F.

measure from
less

an

to

i'

seam

blade

Draw

:>

to

E
and

.">

and

from
('.,

U,

to

G,

All

and

line C,

(J

7,

incli

from

instead of

to

Continue
<s,

l'.">

the

inches.

G, and form shoulder and neck

gorge, as already directed.

Thus

an extra erect

tit

chano;es

Draftinu',

in

two

nmst be made al)Ove

Diagi'am

is

7,

on Plate

1,

on Plate

a combination of
1,

2,

confoiniing

above,

to

foi'nis

line^C.

Diaoram

and Diagi'ams No.

length,

ening the shoulder, moving the shoulder

by

the changes jtroduced

tirst-half

line

a stoojting form,

either of the

tit

of

\vhieh

(1,

the

measures recorded

throuo'h the dot,

8.

tt)

the

the

and

and

three

sliowing

liv

and hollow the

7,

Draw

measure from
line

inches,

mark out half nn

the dot, betAveen 5

between

l(i

the to]) of the back

slightly.

O, and line

Idade

Dot on

.">.)

Drop

incli.

shown) from

tack

the

than the (juantitv uiven

half an inch, and

is

the distance l)etween

is lialf

(as

<if

whieli

(i,

discovei-

designated,

6,

to

'2

the Ruler from

lialf

half

to

tit

out to

it

necessary to

on Division H.

first

order to

in

or extending

No.
the

(one inch

seam

side

figure.

Ap2)ly

failed

necessity for drawing in the liottom of the

with line A.

From

have

:i,

and B.

half

3, is

From

A.

l)ase line

Cutting

the

at

jtractice

the

a variation in the

blade measure

(or the

distance from the centi'e of back to the

front of scye).

No.

tioned

form.

No.

figure,

has the shouldei- point forward and

1,

5,

for the well-]ro])or-

for

stooping

the

sliort,

and the liack lengthened and diawn

in at

the

with

the

toj).

lengthened,
Ijack

The

No.

0,

for the extra erect,

shoulder extended
tlie

back

back shortened, and

seam holloAVed

slightly

from the

position of the bat'k and side

the waist remainino- in

all

and
the
tojj.

body

at

cases the same.

Plate, 3

LTXTTTTCUM'S SYSTEMS.

15

another entirely

my

adapted
This
can

l)e

is

attrilmted to more

l)ut, in a

tliaii

one cause;

great niajorit}' of oases, tliey are

created by

tlie ui)jier

part of

tlie

Coat being-

Drafted too open, (see Diagram No.

Plate

aud

a fault foxiud in iaany Coat.s,

When

?,.)

cut, j)lace

Drafting after

tlie

9,

on

back is

the fingers on the side seam of

back, wliere

it

hne

intersects

C, and

(along the dotted line)

is

the measure calls tor 1)et\veen

not important that

it

the same, half an inch either

injure the Coat

way

will not

but should the points

be too close together, or

be precisely

B, the Coat will

lie

less

OO

than between

apt to swing

away

from the waist, and one inch or more too

long

Avill,

when

strained together on the

Diagram No.

to Plate 4,

as

Draw

11.

base line A.

From

O to

and

2,

are

'27

on Divisions

and B.

18 inches.

the centre of baek to the ])oint of seye.

It is

Turn

OO

B, from

customer

the

fit

required in the Coat.

From

about the same as

same mannei', jiroducing

same form to

move

the top in until the distance between

have

Divisions for Drafting Vests

in precisely the

the

and

difterent;

to 8,

half of breast measure,

is

Draw lines

C and

B,

D.

From

From

2 to 5, is 8C>

on Division H.

From

.J

to 0, is

on Division

to

-i,

is 3fi

on Division

Hi]

moving the Ruler forward

Diagram No.

From

Draw

;>

line

F from

~)

from

through

7 to 8

from

line D,

upper part of the side body.

two

half

8,

line

and

cases,

add

measure,

15i inches, and

form the front of Vest, from

I

all

waist

the

7A, instead of

form of the customer.

at

and

and curve H. Half

of the waist, 15i inches, and in

it

5,

Apply the waist

7.

form, cause unsightly Avrinkles across the

to

F from ^ J.

Hold the tape

to O.

measure from 3 on

making

(bv

as directed for

SI on Division

7, is

inches

I,

1.)

to

sweep curve

J.

0,

to suit the

will not stipulate

the precise position of the seam under the

There

is

no reason Avhy a Coat should be

Drafted by one system, and a Vest by

arm, but suggest that the back

l)e

cut full

one-fourth of the breast and waist in width.

G, as

From

ilhvetcd in Di-afting Coats, and torni the

shoulder and the remainder of the Vest, as

Cut the

shown

liack

in tlie

When

and lay

line

on

line

Diagram.

form, and indicates

in

manner

the same

in

Diagrams No.

and

.">

(>,

as directed

on Plate

:?,

(except

not necessary to add anything to

that

it is

the

l)lade

measure

at

directed

as

8,

in

Drafting Coats.)
Diao-ram No.

on Plate

is

4,

a section

of Diagram No. 11, >h()wing the form of a

loAV

cut

After the customer has

Vest.

been measurcil for

tional

hoHow

tront,

in

_'

to

.5,

is

.>()

From

5 to 0, is

3(')

on Division
on Division.

II.
I

(the last

Apply

part of the ^\aist at the

and

tlie

measure as already

Diagram No.

IH.

1,

from

through 5 to

7,

Add

to O.

half inches

shown

in

at

the

8,

the

the

from

F,

bottom of back (as

the

Diagram,

fi'om

of

From

Draw

line

Form and

neck.

and place

small

tlie

bottom.)

tlie

27 on Division C.
pitch

l>ac-k,

and Line

line

from one to one and

part of the waist to

9, is

adding

:?3,

Draw

one-quarter to | of an inch.

for

for the

on Division F,

31

is

7,

the blade

directed in

Vest

is

to

1.)

from the end of the Ruler, marked thus

8 to

length,

full

Diagram No.

the only addi-

a Coat,

measure needed for

opening

From

From

5
1-2,

4, is 3()

for

tlie

stopping or extra eveet iigure, apjdy the

ineasui'es

to

three Divisions being applied as directed

the Idade measuve varies from the

\vell-]iri>])orti(>ne<l

on Division G.

at 8,

with

cut

line

resting on line G, and form the shoulder,

hi])S.

neck,

gorge

and

For

scve.

doidile

breasted Sack,
riofht anarles

lis

S,M
Turn

Draw

Diagram No.

to

l)ase line

mark 27 on

A.

measui'e.

From O

Divisit)ns I)

from the end of

Fi-om

13,

to

liuler,
3,

Diaw

is

fi'ont,

lines B,

according

line C,

to

the

PI,

fi'om

at

(>,

and add for the

style

and

taste.

4.

Draft the sleeve in the same manner and

and

2,

position, as directed for

to

and E, starting

of

from

line

on plate

marketl thus %.

half

draw

the breast

C and D.

Diagram No.

1.

When

the blade measure indicates a change

in the

form of the customer,

aj)pl}"

them

in

the same manner as directed for Diagrams

5 and

(>,

and the shape necessary to

fit

the

Plate,

stoopino- or erect tigure, will

N THIC U M

])r(Mluced

l)e

SYS T K MS.

'2,

17

are 2SA on Divisions

mencing

the Draft.

in

'

Draw

and E, com-

end of Ruler, marked

at

O to

P'rom

From

C and

From

2 to

From

.-)

to

D.

is

oS on Division G.

."),

is

8S on Division H.

('),

is

.'>S

to 4,

^.

inches (half of breast).

M, is 11)

B,

lin<-s

tlius

!'lliiSmi

It

iiuite

is

Tailors

c-oiunmii

take

to

among

and

waist

breast

tlie

measure over a Coat

an Over-Sack,

pi-aetice

^\

lien

Surtout,

or

Coat measured over

measuring

for

whether

tlie

thick or thin.

is

It is

a l)ad hal.It, as the measures so obtained

are very uncertain, for

take a neat measure over the Vest, and

make the

necessary additions.

already taken, ISA,

0-2,

.5(i,

!_',

lUi, 21,

Coat intended to
of

27,

HA,

I'OA,

2:\,

medium

:\:l,

:3;'.,foran

Over-

wni'u o\cr (xarmeiits

lie

AVhen the Coat

thickness.

wear

re{[uired k>ose, or for

under Garments,

.'JS,

is

\cry thick

o\'er

three inches to the

a<]d

breast and waist measure, and in the same

proportions,

measure.

to

Now

the
let

shoulder

Draw

A.

measui'e,

t'ularged

Diagram No.

base liue

lilade

us proceed to Draft Over-

Sack from the al>ove

as sliown in

and

Id,

From

on Plate
(

to

.'{.

and

to

7, is

;;.">

on Divisc>nF, starting
sj.

the blade measure from 2 to

~),

same up

contiiuie the

Draw

From

to

.")

to

(_),

'.',

and
is

line (t

-iSi-

on

starting from vnd of Rider,

A})ply

and

\2,

from 5 to

line E,

E, from 7 through

line

F from

line

to S,

>

s.

and

from s to O.
Division

C,

marked thus

Fro:n line A, at Id, add two inches for

The measure

should be increased thus: ISA,

;U,

34, 2SA,

;!4,

;)

I.

from end of Ruler, marked thus

preferable to

is

it

Fiom

on Division

sjiriiig,

at

and form and cut the back.

with

S,

line

re-ting on line

form shoulder, neck gorge and

line II

iVoHi

<'),

and form the

at right

tio-ure,

is

(i,

and

Di-aw

scye.

angles with line C,

tVont of Coat, according to

When

taste or the pre\ailing style.

customer

Place

of extra

or

erect

tlie

stooj)ing

the blatle measure will in<licate the

necessary change, and nuist

[)recisel\'

same

the

manner

exilaint'(I for

Diagrams

except from

')

to

S,

be applied

.")

and

as
(">,

to \vhich

in

ah'eaily

on Plate

add

i',

thiee-

fourths of an inch instead of one-fourth or

18

LTNTHICUM

Plate,

r.

l)iv:ist

measure.

In

Inverness Coat

materiallv to

tlie

Accordingly,

shown

Plate

2,

l>ase line

A.

From

to

1,

to

-J,

is

one-twelfth.

Draw

lines

'2

;')

to

?>,

to 4,

two-thirds.

is

twelfth at

one-fourth.

is

(J.

Form

F from

Draw

line

the top of sleeve,

line I), to foi-m the

part of the sleeve.

As

round

Apj)ly the measure to

the correct length of Sleeve, and

the width of bottom aliout

it is

the stai-tiug point

of the Sleeve, joins to the fore-part on the

top of shoulder

round
line

of

pai't

at

the seam, and the

F sews

sleeve

tlie

to curved

The hollow,

on the fore-part.

or

flat

part of the Sleeve, joins to the Ca])e and

down

hack,

to

completed,

!S

Sleeve, and

(>

hi'inging together,

<;,

on the

on the

fore-])art,

when

on

the

liat-k.

])een

said and

written

u])on the relative merits of Divisi(nial and

among

adxocates

zea!i)us

as delineated in the Diagram, adding one-

make

O,

Both have

the

intelligent

portion of the trade, and l;oth are valuaMe.

from 4 to

ol)tain

accei)tal)le:

Exact Measurement Systems.

and C.

From

prove

I'J

Very mu;-h has

oiiedialf.

Fi'om

on

S,

sleeve, as

Y S T EMS.

iT4

draw

From

very

above style of Coat.

f#

is

to

valuaMe accompaui-

Kn,

First,

add

have designed a

which will prove

nuMit to the

sleeves,

eomt'ort of the (Tarment.

Diagram No.

l)y

M 'S

the

e.\})osure

sleeves

antieipated,

is

I"

traveling

t'oi'

where eontinuuiis

pur])Oses,

cold

ehietly

1 ('

eases,

all

made without

is

when designed

l>ut

most

X T IT

'.*

inches.

rather an unconmion thing to ])ut

Sleeves in Inverness Coats, the following

Directions for Sewing in the Sleeve

may

believe

thinkers

all

agree, that

\vill

enced

of

Cutte'.',

Divisional

to

System

on

the

subject

the moilerately ex])eri-

average
is

ability,

the

best.

The

the
less,

more siuqde

and easih taken. The Cutter is

less liable to

nundier of measures are

commit
he

is

errcn-s

maniimlating them than

the E.xact

in

(which

in

re([uires

Measurement process

greater skill

and

nntth

practice in measru'ing), while to an expert,

till'

latter

System

is

preferable.

believe

20

the

aud

tlit'ury oorrec-t,

jn-acticed,

that

N T H C U M S SYS T
I

wlieii iDtelligeutly

overt-omes olgectionaMe

it

ami pro-

features iu Divisional Systems,

(Im-es

tetter

(iarments

and more eomtbrtalde

tittiiig-

to

Hoav

weaier.

the

MS

'

tai'

it

to the Trade, feeling confident that

sujiply a

method

want long

for fitting equally Avell

correct ])ro])ortions

and

will

them

in giving

felt,

it

forms of

ill-shajied figures.

Cutter must he advanced in his profession

liefore

he can safely he deemed an expert,

I will

not i)i"etend to state, as opinions are

sure to differ widely reu'arding the matter,

and

my views may not

thing

is

he ajjpreciated.

One

certain, a gi'eat deal dejtends u])on

apjtlication of the Cutter,

and

the and)itit)n

in the settlini>' of the ouestion individually.

I

will take the lilierty of adnionishing

my

First, take the full length of wai.st

skirt,

and then length

Coat.

taking of measures designed to he directly

as

ap])lied to cloth as taken on the hody, for

location

Garment

when completed.

In ])ul>lishing the accom-

apjx-ar in the

panying Exact Measurement

believe I

am

and most

])ractical

invented.
myself,

and

application.

used in

my

otl'ering to

It

its

simple

the Trade the best

origin entirely to
in

jirinciiile

Ithaslteen, and
Fittli

is

and

now" lieing

Avenue Establishment,

which has afforded ample

thoroughly testing

method of the kind ever

owes
is

8ystem,

its

oj)portiuiity for

merits,

has been most satisfactory.

Plate

to

from the

distant

of back.

to

three-(juarters

shoulder

sizes,

measure will

'.)}

inches).

back

is

(The

l)e

;-54:

from

to 45
I'i

to

See that the seam of the Vest

in the centi'e of the

Vest drawn

in

by the

waist

two and

inches.

three

distance in sizes I'anging fi'om

inches, l)reast

]ioint

socketdione, for width

medium

In the

A, the exact

at

the

desire

the Coat, and

neck on the Vest,

shown on the Figure

you

Figure or

8,

Remove

2;5.)

at the side of the

body, and the

moderately close
strajt

and Imckle.

at

the

Now

the Plumli line in position, directly

])lace

and the result

in

Hence,

on the

I offei'

(Tui'u

Diagram No.

mark

ill

from the

ot sleeve,

centre of the l>ack, in the usual way, over

readers to well and carefully jiractiee the

everv inacciiracy w

and

front of the
fiii'ure.)

shoulder (as represented

Bv drawing

the line over

the sliouldcr, and

a

few times,

line will

slippiiii;- it uji

draw

it

the de.sired place in

to

Ee(piest your customer

front of the arm.

to remain <piiet until

mark

then

attached to the

weiiilit

tlie

and down

\vei^-ht

th'/

is

still,

the Vest perj)endii ular -with

the line at B, and at the hollow of waist

Cross this latter mark just over the

at C.
hi])

in the

Lay

aside

most hollo\v part of the waist.

the

with the inch

Plumh

and j)roceed

line

take the following-

tajie, to

measures vefy carefidhj, kee])ing the

tomer

iu

as

near the same

position

cus-

as

possible

From

socketdjone to the nnu'k at the

end of the

and measure

and

A, say
tajie

down

in

Then

inches.

opposite the liottom of the scye,

biii-k,

and measure forward

mark

scye (the

contiiHie the

breast to

near
at

it

to the front of the

measure straight across the

centre of the l)ody (or as

tlu^

the

in

hollow

centre

f >rward

to

mark

the

body

These

at K, say HI inches.

must

measures

through

the

fi'om

to

taken

l>e

1),

The

the

liack

should be about one inch

greater than half the breast measure,

the aim,

a rule, that the o]erator

against taking

{\<o

last

easy.

of

centre

front of

jilaced

measure

and continue forward to the centre of the

taken around the liody.

hand

the

C, say 8 inches,

at

mark A,

witli the lingers of the right

eye),

at

the waist, and

of

]iart

back

of the

the

at

by the

Place the end of the

D, say 19 inches.

ta}>e

say 11 A inches, and

at B),

as can be determined

<listaiice

side of the neck

place

the

This

them too

is

when

given as

may be guarded
tight.

wouhl

It

luider the arm, ascertain the collect depth

be better, ])robably, to take the breast

of scye, say 9i inches, and continue the

and waist measur.e around the body before

measure to the mark

measuring from the centre of the liack to

Avaist

at the liolhcw of the

From

the

same

point,

measure back of the arm

line as possible,

down

the front, and taxing the mind with the

C, say IS inches.

to C,

at

A,
in

draw

as straight a

over the shoulder

waist

Figure by the dotted

the

V)lade,

(represented on the
line),

say IIU inches.

Place the end of the tape in the centre of

say

distance, A\hich,

and
l<s

'.VI

waist.

is

inches

."ii;

Itreast,

Half the breast would be

inches; while

give

distance as 19

tlu'

from theljack seam, through

to

I).

measure as abo\e taken will read

2(i, -.Vl^W, 9i, is,

l;J.,

lU,

19. s. K;,

The

lH.

-i-b

;!i;, :!:2.

U'lMS

I.l X'I'll

VSTEM^;.

for

back seam through the intersection of

sweeps 4 and

to a jioint a half or three-

('>,

fourths of an inch back of sweep

MEASUREMENT SYSTEM.

BY THE. EXACT

allo\vance

what

for

will

between the back and

djagbam ivo.

s:ee

on fixate

le,

in

precisely the

IhhIv.

same mauner

draw

First,

Draft

the Diagram.

as taken

on the

D, on sweep

line

ti)

A,

() to

is

1,

'.)i

iiK-lies.

at the top, as

From

with

line

and

lower

the

on

-2,

divide

t'onrtli

Diagram

parts, as in the

to

eijual ]>arts as

at

1.").

IS inrhes, (as taken troni

is

From

rlie l)od\'.)

i*,

shown,

two

into

Form

wai^t.)

shown
I

in

in tlie

Diagram.

in

the taste or tashion.

to

in the

it

liy

inches,

from

!>

and

lo.

angles with

thi'ough

swi'ej)

forward to

forward to

10.

between

with

_'

through

inches.)

(l(i

9,

1,

line

.suit

and
A.

(^IH inches)

and waist

(10 inches,)

li>,

measure from sweep

1,

lines 4

of

the blade measure as taken on the

body from

s])ace

back to

Continue

right

at

length

]\lark

8.

and

0,

2,

8 inches)

Divide the

and between

accuracy, into equal parts,

dra\v line

to 18,

which

and
and

will, in all cases,

as

give the correct pitch of the shoulder point.

mark where

Apj)ly half of the breast measure fi-om

(1

lines r\ 4, B, C,

O and

Apply

it

no case change

inches, and form the

o forwai-d,

2,

7,

A. at the lower O, and

sweep

the line between

(^Idade

Place the tape or a

the dotted line, and

this point,

as

'2.

nnmner from

touch sw eeps

intersects line

from

like

7 ti'om 2.

straio-ht etlge to

sliown

to C, at

from

Form sweep

inches.

and sweep

Hi

the point hx-ated at

I'.l

Scpiare

at S.

order to form the

in

l)ut in

aim

">

curve of the neck

waist

Measui'e l)ack from

line.

straisi'ht

measure,) and
liaok

sweep

the

an inch,

aliout half

fr<)m line

Dro]i the centre of the back

D.

direetiou of the top of the haek. I'.U inches^

(as taken from A, liack of the

shown

From

measure up

the

at

three inches for width of

o,

back

as taken on the Ixxly,

whiih (livideinto tour

Measure forward

(wliieli repre-

sents the Phiml> line in the Draft.)

body,

side

out

taken

l^e

of the Avaist, as represented in

j)art

tlie

are ajiplietl

to nud'Ce

e.

hollow

The measures

7,

Draw

and

line

D,

sweep

(>,

along line

4,

18 inches, and adil

2^ inches for front of Coat,

seam

is

funned as shown

If the shoulder
in the

Diagram,

i*Uire,

LIN

from

1.3

hack,

oil tlie

anil

to 14,

on the

f()iv-i>;ut,

and-8-to 16

the iip[)er sleeve must extend as

14

tdUfliiiiii-

the

line B, as the Ijack is

})ni!it

point Id

raised aliovc

lit'inn'

half or tliivf-fonrtlis of an
will

When

shoulders

the

Ht

a s([uare or high shoulder

and add

wadding.

ill

in

It

(',

B, a

to

the shoulder, an additional length will

is

dfsirrd,

lie

is

it

the

duty of the Cutter to detect and improve

the im])erfeetions

all

this lies
.

Form

till'

(if

his caistoniers.

In

true art of his ealling.

cutting

it,

enough

for

in

))lace

the
a

(nit-line

Diagram, and before

of

piece

pajiei'

large

of sleeve luider

lln'

fore-part, to increase

required

The
are

to

the

sleeve,

tion

l.y

the shortness of

which should

in the

ducing

the

short

toj)

Extend the

sleeve,

front

of line A, at

at

mark half of the

l.j,

me remark

top

tlie

addi-

foi-

pro-

By

ol

the

uiiNightly

serving

shoulders, caused

he

-will

]>\

(.h\iated.

seam of the sleeve forward

as tar as

and conqdete the

ill

tlie

1.5

Di'aft

is

aliove line

for sleeve, as

Diagram, luiiining the front seam

forward of

line

A as

it is

1.").

scye,) say

on

line

Wm

B,

W^MiiMg

Slls^.

scye measure, (say s inches,

and form the top

let

li>,

al)o\e,

tlie

at the hand, as tar

and from 11 to

to the

he raised

foi-e-part

s(pmre shoulders.

dragging ahout

shown

in all cases

Draft of the

])racticing

tlie

Kl inches,

In-

finely cut shoulders

or increased in length, eijual to

4,

measure with care the

the height of

sleeve, equal

to],

many

effect of

spoiled

Draft, in the position shown, and oliserve

First,

if

raise of point 14, al.ove line C.

and

the remaining lines of the fore-])art

as <lelineated

and

the ])oint 14 has l)een raised alx.ve line C,

e([uivalent

In fact,

ir,

wadding.

desiraMc that this

drooj).

at

alxjve

on the

done when the shoulders of the enstonier

are iiieliiuMl

drawn

fai-

the Coat

a half to one

making an

is

line C,

lint'

inrli,

\vith<nit

raise ])oint 14 alio\e line

iiieli,

iCUM'S SYSTK.MS.

'I'll

sleeve.

Before doing

that the round for the

ti>])

so,

of

8ES

JDIAGJRA3I3 3

tinrl 4,

ON JPJLAT^ 3,

AND FOLLOW THE DIRECTIONS GIVEN.

place 8 on the inch tape at

forward

."),

MEASUREMENT SYSTEM.

and

draw

The same
the

manner and

-;niu'

l)ia\\

(."oats.

From

() to

line

liast'

is

1,

Fiom O

to

the

on

to]i ot

aim

of the

to

I'or

:\.

Diaw

lines B.

with

;uk.

line

at >ide

(',

the
('.

of

iutl<,

hack

and

foini

\vai>t\

at
to|)

ot'

1) antl

Sweep

A.

on

to

4,

and draw

sweej)

right

11, at

line

from

l>ai-k

liack.

(^11.I

line

:>,

(i

line

the

and

to

for

7,

measnre from

adding two and

4,

and form the

Diagram No.

17.

the

breast
a

half

lines of the Coat, as

e.xtra

N\'ln'n

shoulders are desired,

see

Form

IC).

front

locating the

half

and

stpiare

directions tor

the sleeve in the

san;e nnniner as directed for Diaiiraui IS.

i'.

angles

on

line

(_',

inches,

at right angles
(i

with

nJ>^vard as high as
line

(t

three inches, ami form the toj>

Continue

lines

C and

measures from

MEASUREMENT SYSTEM.

BY THE EXACT

pitch of

for

Measure forward from

-"i.

on swce|)

A]i]d_\

tVom

Continne

line C.

of

liack

(1(>

])arts.

ecinal

Apply

Use same measure

the neck, from the hottom of Coat line A.

Measure

two

into

('>,

shoulder point.

in

tl,

(as taken

inelies

I'.'J,

hod\- iVom

tlu'

>\\ce|i

tile

takt'n

(^as

Diagram Ko.

lO.

to

the direction of

nlea^nle u|i in

'2,

e([nal

t'oui'

line

C\

the liody from .V to

I'rom

into

IN inehes

is

:.*,

(as taken on

and

l'

line

inches,

Diagram Ko.

])arts, as direeteil tor

Hcdy

A.

inelies

'..!,

in int'cistly

as lor

ci'dev

which divide

lio(ly).

tile

taken

ineasui'es are

on

l)i\ide the space lu'tween

inches).

BY THE EXACT

of line

ami measure

i',

forward.

through

inches), forward to 5 (19 inehes),

and

for Ixuly

as taki'U

Coat, as follows (neat measure):

Id.V,

l"i-

."H.

The
lie

11.I,

>,

li>,

1'^.

third

!('.,

l-'i-

and

;u;,

-".

1-.

t'ouith

oi',

^i'

o,

iU, 18,

enlarged
I"'

'5^'

to
'^^

measure need not

ehan^-ed, as the}' are Imth taken from

the side of the neek to the hollow of the

waist, above the hip, as balance measures,

and have no reference

to size or lenizth.

Plate, 7

LINTHIC

TJ

'

^'

ST

V.

MS

From

BY

THE EXACT MEASUREMENT SYSTEM.

to '10,

line

25

from 8 to

through

to

11,

and

0,

and

line

line

ami

Surtouts,

^Diagram No.

follow

the

on Plate

17,

as for

direetious

for

From

to

wai>t measure.

0.
3,

12,

one-fourth

is

small

for

customer, droj) the front a

im

BtSifiiffig
s

raise

Use the measure already taken, which

draw

line

Fiom

42,

30, aO,

32,

First,

17, 17.

O.

24

is

inelies (i'rom

hip to

knee).

From

to 2, is 42 inches

to

3,

right angles with line

From

to

4,

(full length).

32 inches, (length of

is

Draw

inside seam).

is

lines

A,

and C,

at

(of

one-fourth

hij)

4 to

5, is

one-fourth

Draw

6,

carefully, at right angles

Fi'om

7 to 8, is

8 to 9,

with

from 5

line

three inches (in

and

Xow

A.

all cases,

"The

to

me,

.seem

is

suspended

lielow

measuring at

where

it

Mine, of

ri'(pnring

in

and the

testicles

the centre of the

the

latter

the liody, and

to

consideralile

width just below the

crotch,

and

made

secure a good clean

If

that are intended to

tit

tit.

the

space

necessary that jn'ovisions be

to

The

lA inches at the root,

least

joins on

there

reasoualile.

alidonien;

the

Ui)on

STihject,

conflicting opinions.

Sack \\hich contains the

l)od\",

Dress."

in

in

it

in
is

order

Trowsers

at all close,

be cut

without dress, and }daced on the body, the

seam down the

front

must

in

consecpU'Uce

be on one side of the penis, Avhich removes

large or small).

From

antl

front balance line

to

one-eighth.

cutting,

many

foi-nier

(.).

measure).

From

are

penis,

From

little at 11,

upon every other

as

this,

course,

() to 1,

to 9.

waisted

for a large coi-pulent man.

it

Trowsei's

-24,

the

comes one of the most important points

m^

reads

of

trom 12 to

Foi'ni the hij),

cutting

3.

and the inside seam, from the ankle

When

Plsit'Msi

tVoni

from 10 to

within half an inch of line O, at

Use the enlarged measure, same

Dra^

seven inches.

is

is

one inch.

it

from the centre

at least three-fourths of

.Ill

ami

iiu'li.

c-aiisfs a tisi'litness

a t'uUiU'ss

on

tlif

vide a remedy

foi-

this

ami

awav

undivss
iio-lv

the undress side

and

side.

tlie

at least three-t'ourtlis

Or.

in

other words, cutting

which

dress side at

than

oreater

one inch and

least

at

i>.

the

undress

li>
j

represented
tinuinii- lines

between

('.

From

('.

From

.')

from

(i

to IS,
to

I.-),

is

11 t'

hi[>.

iVom o to

l(i.

Apply
the

the measure

No.

larger,

(which

IS inches.')

apply to the

and

be

S,

the

shown

as

is

in

o inches,

in all cases

from which to draw

the latter ti.xing the front

F,

11,

and will range back or

proportion to the size of the

between 4 and

than

and

in
hiji

that

directed

.').

Diagram

In

the distance between 4 and

consequence

"'<^";i^iiit"

ascertain the size of

-JO,

greater

-iillicient

'''1'

in

hip, as ti.xed

taken out

\'

and

f>rward

line

to 14

the knee, and form

Diai.;ram

in
i>f

line

the

No.

measure

hip

.5

in

IS,

being-

F being drawn from

three

inches

inside

is

of centre

balance line at the bottom) through

.'>,

thus

the

placing the top of the line more fnward.

of the back, over the front, must

and providing space for the ctn-pnlent or

bottom.

w'l.lth

ti>

to

.'.

of Trowsers at

add

'''^'

.->

have

distance lietween

(^as

lines

lo inches),

anil fr.>m

above,

directions

pivot

seams,

for

\\\ the Divisions used

S serves as a

l^raw

adding

"i'';'-"te at

Sweeji the space

and from

-^^pr'^

always

-JO,

'^'^^'

and the other between

1^'.

is,

allow f >r seams and the

over the

and

measure.)

Apply the waist

J,

and

the

S.

lo.

it

Diagram No.

one-third,

back,

the

for

three inches greater than the front,

the Diagram.

half

one-eighth.

is

through

(half of waist,
1

C.

and IS from

measutv tV>m

B and

A,

already eut seven

inches

con-

Diaii'iam No. ll^V b\

in

is

17 iuclies

the remainder of the Draft, as delineated in

front or top

prepare to form the back

and

side,

l(t

is

-^lU'l^

After

side.

the

forminu' the crotch, cut

;i

leaving

li.^weeu

the width of the

leaviiiu'

side

l)Ottt>iii

Place half of this, or one and a half inches,

the front seam three-tburtlis of an inch from

the centre, and

The top

iuehes,

the dotted

l>v

lueasuiv calls for a

widt'.

i)i"o-

the same ipiantity to

addiiiu'

the dress side.

tlu' (liTss

fault, l>v eutting

of an inch (as represented

line),

(111

Half the increase

be added to each side

bottom (fc.inst.anceY

ol'

the front,

in

at

the

In the present Draft,

large bellied man.

a half to one inch

When
round

very large, add

to

the front, as

Plate,

Diao:\a^j

ivpivsenteil; and

otliei' ivspect-;,

in

a})])!}-

measures and form the Ti'owsers as

tlie

blade,

lU, 28

30, 88

and

and

tliree

waist measures,

8(5.

directed for Diaiirams Nos. IS and 19.

Mim^
^^^i

yeiim
On

imttiMg its.

very

Cutting Vests
in

and

siraj)le

Diagram No.

Nos. 24,

21,

on Plate

is

sLdavu

Lay the

S.

Coat pattern together on a sheet of

body

the back touching the side

for

})lan

etfeetive

Coat pattern,

l)y a

jiaper,

the

at

blade and waist, and the side body touching

the ture-j)art under the
it.

Mai'k around

ai'ni.

(represented by the solid lines).

A])ply

the measure to ascertain the lengths, and

foi-m
lines.

Vest as shown by the dotted

the

Fiu'ther eonunents

as a glance at the

Diagram

the intelligent reader of

Diagram No.

ai'e

22,

its

to

the

in

breast, shoulder

theory
that

is

of

so well

is

s,

Drafte<l

introduced

^\hen

:'

breast, 'M

jiroducing

shoulder, 27

the

and

The

Cutting.

shown by the Diagrams,

necessarv.

is

])roceed

describe

to

will,

them.

After the shoulder and neck goroe have

been tVirmed, ascertain the

the
in,

])oint

t'>

which

to roll; then mea--ure

lirer.st is desii-ed

from the most hollow part of the neck

gorge at O, the am.iunt of the stand of

colhir at

that

which will depend

point,

materiallv upon the formation of the neek.

will

lie

more

cut dee])er,
if it lie

If the

aliout correct.

cut

more

will

lie

shown

in

(),

the Diagrams)
is

the niaik in front of

collar as desired

at

"-orge lie

After mai'king

draw

line

(as

fiom the point

desired to
().

at ()

necessary, and less,

straight.

the stand of eollar at

neck

the

in

work, three-fourths of an inch

where the breast

in

Collar

no conuueiit

therefore,

illustration

28, in

l)resent

and blade measure remain

The measures used

are

my mode

of

and

27,

2(),

practicabilit)'.

unchanged.

Diagram

2.'),

have ])repared Diagrams

In a gorge formed similai' to those

measure,

waist

1>,

will convince

chauges produced by a

illustrate the

variation

unnecessary,

on Plate

by the Divisional System,

Plate

Form

B, and

idll,

thr<iugh

the jioints of
after tinding

correct

the

draw

iVom

to O.

and

the desired

athl

of collar lu'low E, and

or

sew on

Have

of the collar stretched a

the ciease

drawn
will

in

it

to

fit

roll,

little

])ressed.

whether

it

from

Thus

4,

is

Frock

a Draft for a

Coat Skirt.

Diagram No.

a Draft for Dress and

Morning' Coat Skirts.

and

3,

a collar
all

be high, medium

In Drafting Vests, a half inch in front of

tlu'

stand of ddlar.

No.

Diagi;a:m

Stooping; or
is

1,

be sutficient for

is

to 2,

or low.

() will

o,

the neck

be obtained that will contbrni to

Styles of

DiAGRA^i Xo.

the liottom edge

row between

and well

the Sleeve.

stand

hottoni

the

t'oriii

side, liU'Vidino-

toi-ward of line A.

and

row

the lines, ttc, used for Drafting

sliowini"'

A, at D.

liiicC to intersect line

the curve line tor the crease

l'\n-in

by

collar,

the neck o-oroe ami the top of

iiieasuring
liack,

the

of

leiigtli

o,

the

for

insteail of 11 A,

Diagram No.

in

m'a-ur>\ whirh

Extra

a Draft for the

drawn by

is

No.

is

is 1-Ji,

I'o.

is

(i,

Erect Form, and

us.mI

No.

sanu^ meastrre used in

the blade measure, which

I'.xcept

measure

Draft

Round Shouldered Form, and

drawn bv the

L'.-.,

is

1,

loi.

the same

except the blade

2:).

instead of

ll.l,

2:\.

DiAiiKAM

imp maiit

Nil. 7,

Points
the

is

showing the

a Draft

of

Nos.

1.

and

-"i

measures used

all

dnciiiu,'

being the >ame. except the

It

half of the blade measure (applied

Dimm; AM No.
o-ood

1,

]iro]iortions,

JT >houlder,

.'U

DiAi.uAM No.

is

a Di'att for a

measuring

waist, antl
_',

is

ll.\.

"i

l>:!

firm of
breast,

a Section of No.

the centre of the back to the front

1,

tii'st

tVom
<if

the

scye).

DiAiiKAM Xo.

blade.

pro-

in

toi^'ether.

I'l

the Invi-ruess

S, is

i^ir

a Draft of a

Caj)e Coat.

Sleeve for

w
Di.\gra:\[

No.

Diagram No.
showing

a Draft

is

11,

Fi'ont

and Cape of

the Inverness or Cape Coat.

Diagrams 14

tlu;

and

Top of
(lie

drawn forward

Back,

the

distance between

()

are

15,

drawn

l)y

thirds

and

fourtiis

until

of 36 breast measure, and will be correct

tlie

is

same
in

as l)etween

is

IT),

size

for

a f)rni measuring

36

In-east

(See Dtvcripfio)!.)

B.

measure over the Vest.

T)iaora:\i

No.

Sack, di'awn
slioulder,

to

fit

in,

liy

and

.".S

li*|,

is

a Draft

In'east,

24^

;'..".

T)la(le,

a customer measuring

of

Over-

waist, 28i

and designed
.'!(i

over the

Vest.

Dia(;ham No.

Measurement,
I>escyipfi(i

1(;,

11,

is

a Draft

of Doul.le

Breasted ^est, of good pidpurtions, drawn

by 86

breast,

IH, 23

81

waist,

Coat,

by

(See

Mccniure.)

Diagram No.

DiAOKAM No.

Draft by Exact

good proportion.

in

and

is

17,

is

Draft

for

Measurement.

Plxact

Sack
(See

DeHci-iptiou (tnd Measure.')

27 shoulder, and

blade.

Diagram No.

12, is a Draft fir

Front of

Full Dress Vest.

Diagram No.
or

is

a Draft of a Sincjle

Double Breasted Sack, drawn

breast,
1

13,

31 waist,

l)y

36

27 shoulder, and 11^, 23

)lade.

Diagram No.

is, is a Draft for

Trowsers, di-awn by

'M\ liip

and

Front of
.'id

waist

measure.

Diagram No.
for Tro\vscrs,

I'.l,

draw

II

is

tti

a
.".li

complete Draft
hip and

.".n

waist

measure.

Diagram No.
Diagram No.
or

Cape Coat.

14,

is

Back of Inverness

Frowsers

tor a

2o, is a Diaft of

Front of

Corpulent Person, show

necessary addition for bell\.

inu'

taken

foi' tlie

New

Plumb, Exact

jMeasui-e-

ment System.
DiACiJJAM No.
<;-oo(l

Vest

liy

shows lldW

"-'I.

Coat

Pattt^-ni.

to

{/See

Cut

iMserip-

tioii.)

UiAi.KAM No.
tlio

-J-.),

is a

Changes inddiurd

tile ^^'ai^t

Measure.

DiAoi'vAM No.
Fio'iire,

sho\\ iuu'

"J.">,

Diapjiui showing
Variation in

liy a

DiAGKAMS

{See Jh'fcrijifioii.)
is

liow

Profile

tlie

View

of

illusti'ate niv

NOS.

mode

!Measuivs are

Entered

iu-cOrdiui; to

Act of Congress, on the

By W.

O.

Otii tiny

of

May,

LlSTHICl"M,

in the Oflicc of the Lihraritm of Consrress at

Washington.

1S7:

1>4,

L'.'i.

I'Ci.

"J

7.

of Collar Cuttiu"'.

"2S.

Plale,9

t>L

^'^

\-^^'/ X^'-/ \-^-/

\/' -rn-X/ :Mk \y -^-X/ :& \y .--a^-- \/

'.---^t:-;

^^o

o^.-'j^^/'o,

^\

^-^

^o,y-\o>-

^^:y^^S

.^

...

^^.

'^^% ^-Mt^^

"
C,

A^

...

J'^\

>

"

"--yi^y

\f

.-

/.-%'^

,^.^^:;v'^

^^"^ ^-^mJ

"'

A*

...
v^^

^P

\
-^--0^

"*bv^
'-it.

0'

.'_-

\>

<^^

>*^

*b l"^
v^

0(J\.^

.^<,

-i7

/.
.x-^

-sv^-

^^'

iN

^oV*

'^'ol^

"<>.

.-^-^

<^<'

^^/

-o,^^-/

\/^'^\/

\/^-\/

.1-,

^^

'---/

\^^-\/

V
'

^:^-/

-o^'^^-/

^./^'^\/

?^-"^

'-A,

"-b

\/^^\/ V^^*/

"^

o>.

^*"

'^i.

;.

%.**

."
: