Pattern Making For Fashion Design Fifth Edition

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JOSEPtt-~ll!ONG
PATTERtJMAKiftJG
for faShion desigl
PATTERNMAKING
Fifth Edition
HELEN JOSEPH-ARMSTRONG
Professor ol fashion Oesign
lhe faShion Center
LO$ Angeles Trodelechnicol Cottege
Technical Illustrator
VIncent James Maruzzi

Fashion Illustrator
Kathryn Hagen
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Contents
A com!*'t tiSNn.g Of the COntents. 01 each ChoP'~ o~cn ::-.e c:ho;J~tr
"'*""9-
Prefoee vii
Aef<nowledgmenls
ix
PART 1
1 PoHernmoking Essentiol$ fO< the Workroom 1
2 FO<m Measurem&nl$ and Figure Anoly>is 22
3 DroHing lhe Basic Ponern Sel 37
PART2
4 Dorl Monlpvlolion (Principle 1) 68
5 Designing wilh Doris (Tuck-Doris, Plecls. Flores.
and Gathers) 98
6 Stylelines 121
7 Added Fullness (Principle 12) 132
8 Yokes. Flanges, Pin Tucks. ond Pleat Tucks 1..
9 Contouring (Princip le #3) 158
PART 3
10
11
12
13
14
15
Collars 178
BulltUp Necklines 201
Cowls 208
Skirts/ Circles a nd Ca scad es 230
Sleeves 30 1
Kim ono. Ro glon, Drop Shoulder. and Exoggerat<'d
Armholes 332
PART 4
16 BuHons. 8uHonhotes. and Focings
17 Plackets and Pockets 369
361
PART 5
18 Or&sses WithOUt WoiSHine S<>oms (8os<'d on 'k>m>
FoundoHon) 38<4
'
19 StropJoss foundation ond lnlerconslructlon
20 Ponommoklng tor 8tos-Cut Dresses
PART6
21 Shit Is 440
22 women's Joctets ond Coots
23 Men's W.Ot 491
24 Copes ond HoOds 5l
405
426
Preface
\\'d<tMn~ to lht fUth f!\llllon uf t.mmtmollJt{'{ {tit
458
25 Knoc~.on Copyjng ReodyMode Designs
552
Fotihfott IMfxn' Cunun"lnr; "'ilh tht \UC(~\ nlth<

fiNt foor C'ltklm. thl' ~1\tlllllK cuntJK..-hC"n,h'C'
JNih!mmaklnx bool pt\H.IItJiy:
PART 7
26 Ponl1
27
28
29
30
564
Knib-slt&leh ond Slltln~ogo fociOfS 626

Knil lop Fooodollons 632
Acltveweor lot Donee ond Exorcise 640
Swtmweot 658
~~~JN'Ifl('nlnl 'l.ht\knt~
PART8
31 lnlfO<Iucllon 10 Chlldtensweo 690
32 O<olfong lh& aoac Polfem set: Meosutemenl loklng ond
S1ondotd Meosuremenl Chotls 695
33 Collars. Sleeves. ond Skirts
706
3.4 Ormos ond Jumpers 717
35 l ops 727
36 Ponfs ond Jumpsuits
749
770
37 Bodysulfs. Leotards. Molllofs. ond Sw/mweor
Bibliographic Credits
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Answers to Self-Evaluation Tests

Index
1101
sos
Organization of the Book

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fnf lhdr hd11ln l JK<tl.:.l W,l)'\,
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Acknowledgments
IM.'l: lill )t~flnill l, t\llhtd d~"'ilStll ef .11111 llftldU(tion

l)..lUc.fiii'IMktt, lOt h h ill'ittht !I lid \B)lf.ll'~tkl-11\ fnt
th(' llit:kl.'l lfluru l.ltiun !mel lnlt'I((Ulllw\'IIC:m
dcw lQJIIIl\1111,
In 111\'lllCll)' of 1{(1)' {;kvctl)', Wlh~,. l'UWUIIi(C"
lll\'llt lllld ~ClOll wllllll'lpl'(l ltiC to IOI)tl' ,lhl,tel.
A ~JI'C('I,I l th:mkY\111 Ill lt!C V\~1\;'lti;lll 01
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lll"tcl ~ frh'u d tu lht' h 1'hlnll (.:,.ntt'f .11 lht I (h
An>:dt~ l'tndc 'f11~hnk.1 1 Cull'*''
I . JI)J)r,'(l,lll.' t lw hlcmhhiJ uf Jl,un Sarl'\'11, l'f~'"
dtnl of'l\aj,.uln;h, TlJI<J\nc.b, and lht I lll<1\ ~"('n1cf...;
ltkn m.~n.~~. of tilt CAll wo,tn"M. lnr h;,. "''"'- ,n

II~ C:Clm,M.IIl, dtJ~ft ol tht ba.\ac fil'(-pi('('e p..U.m\ l<t
tn \1\hkh l~ot n.m.at..'d lt.n: lhr 0\l))
lht' loUo..,"nl ~- m onr- "''""' .mochtt
"c''" N hdr to me:
'Urn GonuJa. <Anrr.JJ
,t.J.n:
~.fa( \.ttp~ l.r.ad.of mtc:ontxn; tmiDo Di\ON
Vitt l'rcUc.knt. \ntonlo Cilt..LU. tor~( tft.oi!NC~

tkwn;. K.lbt l.,u dlnctor. Ptro. foJ &mt.ilhnt 1ft\
&Jptor .ohwur.. 8ocu \ uhnn~' M ~
whl,h l~ptop h.\ bu\. b1 ~- dnt'(bn J,a,c:>n
o.:k..,-,.n. I t~\lft~ down thr: rerft plcturn b
U~ IWO: .-rut \ru.J Compos.. ,_.bo coc ~ m.-11
JTM!olh C\'1'1'\ d.l\ fOf tht ~~"(l.J:IO ,U th~<Oft'!p.ln\
of <otUW th.lt lnchkl...-d me
fo th c;oum~~ iU.Idcnh Olt"r tht \'t..ln who
llol\t (cJVnd.u h~'t: I. the thnll J~nd t'.,Otcrnmt o1
~'-~\Hint:. lht wondt:ftuJ
wndd of p;mcrn~.
I "tlUid ..lho Hl.e to th.:lnlo.tht:' tolk"JWtn~ ft"'11r"
t'fl. ;\nd) Ch:m. \1;.-.\.l,.'tn~n,_ Collqt'r '-'' \rt
M.lrlcnc Cool..\"Evitt, t.;'rl~r Unt\"'l."T<It\. \bnlyn ~
l~f.ttluon, i\l.tptJ t"mwNt\ ~ H\"l"'" t.J.m. l~ \IJ~IC'\.
Tr.1<k.. h,'\hn\l.d t:ollc~"C: I UJ.nn~ \l.a)t'~ .....; , ""

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Q u,"Lenlxrf)', \'i~inl~ Ted10 .).no.l Sbc~ \cht.lficl.f
l ormhln. )...:nc M.ltt Ltni\~r-11\
f hl >lll),.:. sp.."'CI.lll)'pl'l'IJ;at\<ln t\'1 \'t'm \nlh\'!W
.lnd to Jill Jon\'">Rt\t.('t .lnd hoec '1:t ~l'lk' t.UI hl'
thtlt time and ~li1.1n oo tl(>h;.U otth~ 111th c.'htk'ln.
lll;tldllj.: fWtfWIIMI..iltoi /rJt f.tiol!iclfl l"\'1, '1 .1 ""'l\lhhil
(U~wnl.llltlO.
About the Author

lll'l,n Jm('Jlh \ffll\ltt'lftg h
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lljo!I1C"f, U:.KI\oef, ~nd OHitltor \ht: WJI~
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nt',-\"t '''"'Ill II.'I'Kk'l "'' '"''"("' ., ;~ dHl~~:mr;
ht\1\',td I hrou~IU nw \l.llh to tht cW\ruum ''11\'"1\' H~ \tu,km' ;~nd 1 gt('Yo ~~

jo!eth\'t. llw cb\\tovm h;n bttn thtJI\UI14.w, t<"'oo:-'t\h UtliiM.lh~\ f01 de'\doptnJ:
.and ''~lnJ: m:'' C<t"lil'~\. \Oflk" of v.hkh
itKilMk introd\K"nn n'Mttt-.urtntt ;n thc thud
pun''l"f' to d.ut IIW111pul;aticW\ ao..t ~~ll$.
lull!\('\\, tk\Cfollitd JUiUI;;:i r'..... .lnd COfOI
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th, \h"'l~ vf th\ bu~t; .and <k_-,t!kfllinl tht!

f. lf<ul.lf/C. ,.'A.a<k lt.adlu\ \Jun for quid;
reh.r..-m.\'. Ma.n) ttloOh' kk!JI' and conccpu

IIIIth\ P..IC\... uf thh boc.1l. ,lll \ l.ulfym~ thc''"\4: HU' vf f},IU\!IfltnJ!t.lnto:
'fh l.' lmHutr h : ttr.-du:ut of tlw ...lShton Ct-nhr ..,, Los \ngcle!"o trl.k--Tr.:hntnl
Coll\'~l' tn 1()~ ;\n~tc le\, C.IIU~un\J, ~he Jtt~n~.t.:d tht L'm\eNh t,lt C~bwm~
I~\ \n~d\'1, th\' llnih'f\lt)" lf "K~tlthcm C.lJifom'-3-l~ \z~. ~nJ l.on~ 8elo.h
!'it.lh: Unhcr~hy. M~ h thr .autht,:n of two ~ks: 1\ltr.-rmt.t.l.m,'( tiw fol,lnofr
(1\'.U..OI\/ I'h;IUI\t' 11.-11) o1ild J lttiJ'itl,\' (t" .ll'f\IJt'll)r-.:(._(l'l!f.lirthil.JI. "'bfeh io..l\'0\d~k
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Chh\\'\1,', :ttl LngH~\1 ' cr~lon h,t) 1'1\""-'ll publi'hed in lnc.h:a IM the '~kconttnn! .mJ
:m V n~ll ~h ver... lcml\ av,tll.lblc fm lhl." lntem.;aUon:al mJrl~t
(\-...!.,,
~h. 1\rm,twnll, h the rcd j)knt t)f numerou' ahJrd~. indudlnS }..1X"l' th<' tnttfN
tlon11\ ln~tlhth' for '\M(t ~lnd Org:Jnl1.ulmMil'lrt"t'lopmcnt :u~ tt\l(hll"'$ c\(Yildtu:
'IJ)(ltt~orcd h)' t h t Unhcr~lt\' of -rr,.l~ at -'''tul: .1 llt~llnl<' .\;.-.ntt"\"t'l1k'flt \t\.Utl

(20()(1) ft(\111 tlw ltwf\~~lcmal h\01. !Jtl~~ll l\1 tU,tM\ .:l~ltU('r'S. n~~' named \"X"XI
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Pattern making
Essentials for the
Workroom
Mm:tNMAKIHG fOOlS
k.nc:-. ol PottMW~CJ~o.--g 100il
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THEWAYWlW'ERE
PQOOUCUON TEAMS
BOOV SCANNING
,
COMPVltR COMPANIES
LAST. 8UI NOTlEAST
EFIT SIMUlATOR IS 80AN
.13
14
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16
16
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APPAAELPROOOCI OEVELOPMENI
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COSI StiEEl ,,,, ,,, ,, ,,,,,
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PAnEI1NMAKII'tG ESSENTIAlS fOil THE VK>RKROOM
Guide to Reading Ruler Inc rements

(based on 1/S inch ')
Functions of Pottemmotdng Tools

Tnof'\ Jl<'ilk' tiM' wmiJCih
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l'oe U'Mh' inlllflt\.ltlnn, ""4'l"'lt\' 7'!'.)
hu:renwnl,,
sc
l '
'
c'
0
PA11EftNMAIONG ESSENT\Al.S ~ TH: wom<ROOM
PATTERN PAPER
r~t""' f\IJltf n~s c.'llk numl,.,.~ ''' ln.lk~l<' II'
""ig.ht u0r1 tw.a,, tnlldll
lk>tn"1&(~ f..IJ""f-1\(((111 ( "lr-
1\ (i~nlft> l.a&: (.~10"1 ICI "lPntlt'
liu\'\"'l\~hl
jUtl('ft\
r.-J'II;'f
fl.tl l\'fm hl>f u.nln~o: . .uultlh' ~uuh~oc\ J:,i\'C an ..C

t-c.nmt ''' lt)l.l~.., c,f th(' finhh..~l tn.ltl.l.'r.
C,,,.,,.._ll\k:d l''tk'f (U'Ior Oil OfW 'lid\' Ofll)') h;~~
1\n hiiiC"tH'Ifl~ to lnodk.tiC' ti~ht,ldt:UP ol lhl.'
j\.tlltnlt'lc"$'\ .tnd 'of tll lndl(',lt\' lh(' dl~~n dl\'i
'lk'llto "hkh tht' I~Ut'fm L'll"lhllS-.
I~ I 01111
ll (011!1!.'\J t.f(
FABRIC TERMS
('utlr..."""'c';
JUCIC'fTI'.
trrtr(flif ,..,._,,~ t:a.lt

1 kl S lloutlk-lluf' \~run~ l'l')>rr
Usf'ltw.('lt'ht f\lll('ll' c~ ... ~ ,......,.
\~ 1\J'('Cf n u'l(t.i k'll' IIUltl'lt IYWt.<n .t.noJ 10
dt\'dor t1NC (UitffR\,

Tbt JUf'f" is JIUIW Hth .1 dloJk~ 111 \\-u!Nlh
nalllbtn. Wtkn. Ww1 linro .Mto.l doh Jhr
nlllboh bdpt~~fwon .lll'"'~ dw ,;r.un.l nn ot tl'w
h\1111~ hJ\I\
i,(IIHh'(_'{llt~ llj('IJ 1')1 wlltl\ d t.ll"-'1 jt.llm4.'f11~.

lk.n)'M,{t''' Uiml) Wl)\cn, u\4:-d foe tnt lull tJI
lot'-'1.1 t;,.lOII\'111\, kL.~h. oll\1.1 '0\h
..... or ,.., f'o'P' ~nd ,, utnl rnn$nt\ '"'

~..._-..,
lht'\ltor dr~llhl~ .11111
,~utnu..
1\..uJ.
MuSiil\. A Jl&alti-\Hl\'\'1\ \~\IHII tniKI4.' ht1111 hk-"tht'\1

<H ~ulhl\':..ctwd et)hkd )'.illh ~~~ ,1 v~rkty of \\dllhh
..... ... .
.. ................ ...
. .. ...
....
....
Of
.,
n,,u.
Ungth" lw- ~roln (\\.lrJ)). \".~rm tl.lr.alk-1 \\tlh 'W.'-1

U,r.t'\.Jnd .11 r11tht.ln~k'\. to th~V0'\\\1"': tt:;r.lln It I)
tht nloO\t itabt~ ):I .tin
...'
Grain. Ilk din-..tk~n In \\hkh ttk' \'o\U\ I\ Wcl\tn Of

lt.nlnl'l.l (lniJ;th"w ttt;~ln, eM' n,up; tftl'\.)\\1'-C' t(l.lin.
'
v
- ...
C"rosn... lw- grain ( n
c-(1). '.lin\. \\Q\~11 .kit"-\ the fJb-
rK from wh.1~,. to
""'h.l.,;.'". It h tlw llllln.g '"" ot
W(J\'-'"1\ fahfk"\ CrM\\\.I\4.: ~1.1111 )k'4d,tn tlnt.IU.l
M"h~<". fh~ t~U f't"M.,., hnnl) ''('1\\"11, ;md hm\htd

Strip un b.i"lfh kn)tthwlw Jtl.lill nl~,.,. u( th~ \~\'!'""
f.tbu< . <lllltling wh.IKI.' r~k.IW\ tetnkm.

nJ,n, i\ il;mtinl( Of dl.lJt<\U.al lim. ltll ()f \\"\\'11
th<: wcaw of the dcMh.
PATTERNMAKING TERMS
n~ f~tns
tmns .l.nd ,J.:Iitultcm
Jt'C"
"I ru~ bl;u. llw rtn}tl~ lhw th.u lnter""'\:b with the
kngthwlw .-'"' UO\\Wiw gr,llll\ .-1 .l-IS' angle. True
bl;l\ h;,h nt.l\hluu" Niw .md 'lf~h:h, \.\I'll) Hli \HTn
lng IU ltw llg111~\ lC)U I()IIf'l. l't.UC\, l"OWI), .md dt.lp!.'S
worl.: 1~'11 when wt 1111 t tuc bl.t).
rd.ucd tn
tht \\.tUI.I<ll)lfl
l~.111em draflinj;. \ ')''"m ct f\lll<"tllrnJlhtK th.n
deptncb on lll'f~iUR'Ml"ftl\ l.llcn frun1 J hmlt 'If
mc)(l.:l to ut.ate b,)tc. lotnd.lut"ln. or ck-\lltn p.t
lt'fflS.I\n('\o:lll\1)1(' i\lh('dtaftclt th..- N\lt p.lthn'l \o;t.
Slft\1
ll owl u~ tll'ld Skcwln~ . Wh\'1\ flll~r
n :u ~lh:rnl'llilkinx.\ \)'\1\:m of P,llttnllll..ll.lng

tiiJt dcpmd\ on ~'IOUi1)' dt\.;lopnJ fl,lll~;"ln\ 1ht'
11~1ri>lngp;~ucrn l'S nJnlpul.lttdh) ''''"IC thl \laih m
!lti.'OI.ll n)CI hod II) (h'Jlt; dt'\lj{ll p.lllt;ftl\
th r~uch do not l nll:rl.u:~ with lh\'

s,tr<~ight
gr.ah,,. .11 ()() , IKm' lllg ,111<1

~k~owlu~. 1>r u 01\l''ildl.'(l l'"<lltthhuall<al\
(k:C\Ir:\ a nd h tl(tcn wnt tu lmht,lr)'
In tlll\l c:mulhlon unh..., cllhNw\w
IJ~sl~ {lalltrn ~t . A 11\'\'pk'CC fUIIt:m \ol:t, <OtUI\t
lng c.ll fro.n ;u,d I~ bodltt ,1.nd 'klrt Mkl ,1 tunx

ll('('\l', wluct1 lfP'titllh theduJ'l("I\Uflll\ nl .t \pn llil
tOfm OJ_fgurl.'. It h dnc~ wtthatll dt'il(n h,,.
cur~. It n ,th\'a}'\ tr<~u:d IN p.llltmm~l.lnlt "b '!\
~~1: th\ ~IJ\h ,u)(J \(Mt.ad lt'l.-hiU<JIIt' de'\lnt:-d ~~
,.,;:~:; ... lllt' lt.ittd 'lSI) h rrlt Hn.ltJ .1\ o1 '*' lflll(
~~~.~~~sucr~. "'")
l""ttrm
1 "' .. ''"" '"'
ll\t
thb t~xt th~~ l\ ttn ~ncr.tlln;,l dM.lr.u 1~11' "" In

Pntt~. c \a'\"- f'.lttl'fn """
t.aw '"' dn IC"
'"'hi:
o1(n)1.\
SkOY>IOQ
lnSUUllt' tl,
FRONT $KIRl
PAOERNMAKING ESSENTIAJ..S fOR lHe WORt<RQOM
Ctlol}ler I
PATIERN GRAINLINE
'""'
Tht' PJIII~rn j;r;~~lnlln~ 11 .a lhw dr.twr' nn cM"h ll-011
"'--0,.., L-----""'~--1
tern l)i('('t (from end to ('r\d\ In lntll~.llc how the

,,.,n<'rn SIH)tlld .tllxn with the- len~llw.l\4.' f!.ral n o f
tilt fnbric R<.:Jr\Jk-1, of whN(' the grahtlhlt' I\
dr.l\\'1\ CM\ th<' ,-...u~rn, It \\Ill .lh\'.1)'1 1'1<' 114JI!Ct'(t on thcfJ~bric so th.at th(' j:r.llnUnr h I'Nif.:\11~1 tO th(' lo('h-~<'
<'<lg<'. Patt<'m pl~n('nt I\ lllu~tr.ttt'\1 in ll.gure 1
llt<' clftct M ~r.llnlln<' t)n gO\nm:-nt\ I\ ~hown In fi,g.
ll'r.od Of"'
fiQI.Fe 2' AllrgtWlQ rn. ~
To ('R'dl~o:~Wt"' or ~-u-.,: ruu d.r f~wk di.JJ.:(to

nalh .It opro&Wtt mch olll.r ~buc. Rtrt'" .It lhf'
01p,,t., t'fKb.. ThiS pm.""t"U htlpl to .1hl:fl the 1.1r.U1:ht
"""'
Ohectlo n oc Gtoinlln.e
\'e-rtk.tl g.ralnli nt") :IJ<' dr:~wn ~ril-l tl.'l to ceontt'r

for KArll1~:nh eut on ~traight gr:lin Flgtlf~ l.
81~! ~ralnllnt1 .lrt' d ra"'n at :an an~l~ 10 c.mtf'r

(4S an~ for true IJin) foe- ,;arnttnu C'Ul on tht
hbi.) tFigurt' .\).
1-lom:unt.al gratnU~ art! dn'hn n n&ht .a.n;ks

to CC"nt<'C lor ga.rmtrH-\ cut on cr~swl~ grain
lligurt ,.l.
u~ 2,1,.tnd ol,
pn f'"";~rpiJindt'tM~"''* ,,;un ~wf'ftr thttl J'llft'\.\ l<'

Ji pttf1 tqu.ar~
Thrs
~ pn t't ~fat tndt\..J~I pr
....... '
mmrs buc " unp'J<UPII'If flU:U-pt~f'd """'-'0'
~ft. IM manuf.lt'tUI'tf C.lft ~ Jil .I CO'\.l.

to ba~ diC' p<Ntftt ("(lfm."ttd ~- tht lbk ('Qftl
~n~. ~o('Ot'ltrolk-J"''C'.I\~ an corrtlt'-o
,"".~9-'l-1-l--\
f'91f1 3
fhleo<f
"'on IM wom~
~-
rtvood hi' on the W(tlf.
e'l.
GrolnHne Arrows
Armw~ piMt'll .u 11101! ('till \ til tilt.' ~hlllllltl1' 11\tll
( :th that tiW 10 11 ~~~ llw J'OIIh'tn Ill~\' 1)\' jll.w,..llll
tUh\'f tllh'\ liml.llun,; th \' 1\'ll~t h \\'l\4.' ~t.thlltrw 1ll
th1 l.tb rk (fol lotbtt\ \ \\ llluut ' tl.lll) .

.\n .1rrow 1,I,K,,I ~~ tlw h'l' ,.., th1 l~o.lh'"' ,,, t i t~.
)t.r.llnlhw lndlt.-h'\ th.tt tlw lt.lltt'lll mutllil. l'b''''
hi ~ 'I I'-' dlh' tlcn cttlh H11C 1.-lltk \\\Ill\ ol ll.tt"
-1~
t'\
BLENDING, TRUEING,
AND EQUALIZING
~'
DART
Une\.'t:ll ~urvt'' nl jolnhlK ""'""' t .an ht bkn1kl try

('(JU,IIh>lnr. th1,. dtfltrtnu' I h1 .tlht\ltd w.ut1llm:~
an hl('rKit-tl ~ll<M,.hly .1lunx11"' -.t.unlhl\', .:\JM.'\inlly
h1plhK~
;md lt'~llnt... IIK\H.: 1.
h;pJ"It 1
...
IU~ndln)t.
A prott"\\ '~ '""'"thhi)C., \ho~plnx,. o.~nd

roorldln,; ;angul.lr tim~ .llnlll( <~ \l,,un 10( u1101,.h
tro~n\.ltiun from ~Nlt' ltfi41H tu tht' nc-ll.l .md lr bltod
Ins Ul,lr\.'\ l!lOl(k CKIIIIo\ jl:!Utrn r~r 111\1\UU. IUktt~.hnx
inch~ tnttln~.) IIJ.:tlll"" b;, Zh
SPECIAL INFORMATION
Mijothl\l~up (when \ld~ dlff~:r . ln\tnKtion .lppht~ tCJ 3\)nnn...uk.oil de\.lxn., trlx,1n .,kk "lift" hum
lnk1 d.tfl .,md th.tw 1kk' w.lfll (ftgur-. 2a).

1r,m tlw ~ld\ W.ttnlhte (flg:urt tin.
llnfol(l \l;ti1 1UK1 JM.:ndlln !I.e dMl (figure 2ct.
Trurins. The- bkndm~; .:and m.u~hl\"flli\K ol p:rt~.ll

hileS, croo.ft!UrL:lo. .1nd dol mlr\s lot lh<r purpmco ol
tsiJiblnhlng (tort~...:l \1..-m kniCth-lm t''.&mpk,
trutlng~ 11d~ k~m hnrht.l ~ d.lrt
tht' k.ft 'Utk) Jlld hw ,.._U\'fft\ ~ut hutn f''U:H"'-"\tf'd

(Oihrln ...-.h ;,., hnnkr (Wtnt\.. rJntlcmtl)' 'IIIIKt'd flu\\
~f'lo, K~lll~HK fonll'-. ,and nmhlpk tnlcM., \o(.h t;tbnu n-qultt' \flo\'\;ilk. tJdU~tn pl.lttm'-nt '" thJt tlw
ralui< d\'')i~fl t.an t"' .Uf,liiJCI.'tl In lh\: \Jill'= kKJtkw'l
for all ;;,.nntlll\ c.ut hum th.-t f,thfic: . H('{MUJ...,.,.
tR.\UI'j hldll.ll\"'o to II~ m.ut.:.cr rn.akcr tiMI tht ~t
tern I\ In IX' tlt.n~'(l lau ttl) nn th\: .n.u..~:r
Oct.allliC.'Iinn. ~l..rk th\I<K.atlun In whk.h .a dt

tall i'i to lx plaud nn Ute tt.UI\:tll. lhh will \'n~tHt
thal the flow~:r, ai11H.11.1 dl't.all, ur \ ltlfl\"' will ~!WoolY'
he o n tlw t:nU\'(1 'lidt .uulln the tntlt\.1 pl,t\1.' 01' tl\i:
garment.
\
I''' .... "'''
..:
'
-:.
13
ll.IIIIII \C'. I hC' f~lkc:l rfllllionSIIIp betW('("n j)o1tiS
tll.ll, wht'tl nwuhlnl'd, ((lf!U .. nil (or whO)(') in
"ltkll (',1( h 1un I\ In l."\.u1 prOJ){If1ion ;md hann('lrl)'
sororx:e una Terms

Phnnb thu. A '~rli(.ll
lint ch31 b ;,t ti,:flt ;,t'ISk'i:
"''h tht ilocw.lhtd 10
w4th .JII C'lh'l:f\
1\llllln< h~.g ,, ,._,ucw. F-lndln.g and .l'ldju~t!ng tht dif

lrrc-rltt l't't"~" jt.tnlns: JUUC'tn p;nti to impto~
ttk' lung .u1d lit olll'lf' ~:;um('nt
'-'C'Itotm~ tht b,)Uft(c'
ol dw 11urt.
ltC~orironto~l b;al:mt~ lint' (IIIII.). A rcltnl:f' to any

111M' tn.JIM'd ,u(IUnd ltK' ft'I'R thals 1~r.Jlki h'lth thC'
1\101)1 r.auctn\ ,If(' .IJiO tn.lflcd IHih hofl,tont.al b;t.l~
.met' llrM~ Joo.!Wtfd from tlw ('('fll('f l1nn rtptt':St'ntlng
~itulnU.IW'
-\ ~til
)IJ)t It n$hl
~ tO~OOihtr hint.
1S n.tf\1
11'1t. I
tl'k cfOt.\" ~ Jl.a.in "hen 1~ s-arn)tfU b cut u1 f;abo

ON' UN lulft I'M'IJI "-t~n ~Llnd"' lhe P'llemS..
\Wtiallinot. :\ lai'IC' ttloJil

I:S !.U. .t up ~nd ~n.
rt(
tft)rilollu.l lint. A hOt"
pv.Mid .,,m tht rb
Clothing ha, l>t<>n m:mufa~ tur\"Clln entnUIIy thC' l.tlnc "'"Y

Sin~ thC' IIW('11110il OllhC \\"Will); RUI~ hhiC' \ll the JUidllllll.'"\t.'t'IUh
'ntury. Oklfashto-ntd, l.:lb<HInten~l\~ mtthod~ art' \till uK'd
by some 1-mall m:uluf~uttf\ a!'kl d(:'-i&m:n of ("U)tOI'nma<k
Jli>l~~~ btGlUk' thly C'IIIUlot ;affocd 1\,Xhflk.ll Ul~loldn. l'efWNI
<'Onli)Uters .:.nd lnc-xtkmht wh,~Oif\' .JIC' chJ~nRIIl1t apparocl

OOlgn, and t'\'tn mutll m.lrmt~u'n (.In Afford
computN-3~\.i~t< Olll1td prOdulon l>vfkatton\
T<kb)', nlOf\' tl\.ln 'X> l""'nt Of 't'fNin..i \Oklln Ammu.
ts manufxturt oUshort. 1hh rto~lh)' ha1...1t'ltratfd wor
or computN.n,J\1td olppolttl r'4'odu<1km ftkhod~ .tnd
tilt Interne-t
In tht t97<h. gr.-Jin( olod nu.rl.n nui.Jnx h'.S c:omputC'n.mS
!OUOW'C'I.iln the- 19Ckh b)' Urgt '-"'O'npuu:t..akkd <k1.tgn tOOl .
systtms tol~Jnx O\d' ~UC'fntn.Jit.mg. fabc.c dnl~n . .1nd
<ksian gr~rfli(\..
ltlsht ~ng.k. 11k 40"
...np- kwnWd b\
The Way We Were
TOIJ.Iy, t\C'n thc-1lft.lll('\t rn.Jm.d.cuarr:r un r~nt

hardv;;uc- ;md \Olt\\.ltr: 10 .l\~1.l the' 6H11;,1l and producl'ion
f'o"O in-
tmU~ 11M'. tdumf

to ;)! .11 yurn/lutt
ptOCC"\~ Compultt~lcn.tC'd p.attc-nu. markts,

~ifK.lUons. .11nd unt Sh1.-en c:.an 1'M" ~nt \t.l thf' lnttmoct
to f;~lt<lfttt lo.;;utd .rround tht w<Wkt lh0\l$h sornt )ob1.
\sym.metric;d lint..-\
em t l~t~t t11ttl uncqwl
h:tw bc.'t'n ~. d~ilgnc:n, tttt.-rnmakcrs. marLC'r .nolLtcs.

g~<kr'S, otnd cuu~r., ;u~: ~till nrt~l In thl.!o f.1stp.Ktd
buUntss.
proportlllrni on C'ilh
Uckollt.
Symmetricll hnoc. \
Compt1tt-r comJ>.ml~s offe-r 1.tmln.tn for ~tudcnh

;uH.I cwrcnt m.lllu(;l.,;turln~t ~mplo)'"-.:' to L.t:cp thtm
updated ('Ill n~w trdulniOK)' f.Hhlon ~hooh h.a\'C'
;uklcd computeNtul~tcd te<hnolot;) cour<Jts to thtir
ctntC'I' IUK' volth jWI
proportion\ on f'lth\'f
side 01 it.
cunictllum.
1\l..a r"..:h S<!t uJ' r,,kit<Nittr" In ,\merle. ,,s dn

Innovation (Or Stu<kl\t\ nd thO\C ownhl~ \111.111 buslncs~s.
Thl')' c~n produce piltt-:rn' und "':UUJtlct, from dc,lgns tl$lng
'ruk.tlTcch )(l(tw;ue .lnd h11VC the J).lttvrm Jlrhucd out .lt.) loc:.al KinL.o's.
Anothtr lnnO\'atloo by l'ul.:a l1.'(h 11ml th\' Fa!hlon Roo}; St4.'1rt b
f.trtllltm lht1}l'ft C:dfc;, whldl h lwm.:d In th\' ttashlon M.ut .lt 1..0~> Ang~lts.
Call(ornl:.. 1 hl' pmJ~o.'<t w:h c;ontcl\'t.'tt a .. :m .uwc:l.ltt'd 'et\"IC'C to-r
nuuluf;.<ltutcrs lnr.:\' "''d ~nwll. '1 he -.cf\tl'-'t' c<:nt{'t h..,cr.)$.<'" th(' m('l$-t
advlli\C:ed tl't!hi\Oh)~)' in CtllliJ)Ut~t lllded Jll\Uf!lllllloll:lnfl. grading.
and
and lncrl:~., ' lltl'(l 1111d <1unllt)' to ttw enatkcl.
,,
Stylellne Guides
'
~Y,.II(Jt ~. b
'
J.l) S('W11llj lhM \lfl',lllllln\'" .lpj\UCIJUOlhl(lltlll, fl.'(hK'C"> ~1.
l'in flMldn't l'l.ttlng .t 'l.trlt\ of ptm ltuou,::h the
rnmlln '" fhrm u. -v.alu.-tco ~lyltllrw pl.'lt1'111t"IU

\t)'lf' l~pt Ul.u~IIIJ:_ \l)llhll' r.i4\HIIl\'llt tn color
oldtM''I~< '"I" lr .1h~t1 do"\!Xfl fto~otUh'\ ~mJ.to pro\titk .a Ill I
'ft dl\'< l"f'lltiC dt1l1t11 I' 111((11\
r,. "''
Even tht'KlNh ,\mcric.m m;uw!.lthnlng b hdllS unt ..mt\'1.-d tl) ,,tht'r

countrll~. t h li' ..;ontr\'fii\'IU'IH c.an ,tiWII)'~ lind ,1 nldw II\ thh ,h n~mi<
.
.
indmtt)' th.l1 \'IIIli~" chan.:\'. 1,,\h\Oil\JV\'\' \'Cl~llh .md illlll"'\ ,\IIY\' f,l.\hl\"'l IC.ldt'l' "hll J.:-m.,)n.J ll'lntl'-'h\'C'
a l~J~It('l. l h'-' nl.ltUr\' c;\t\h)IU~r \\\II\ he' tor ,\ltf,l(l1\~ ~.ul'll\'111' th.tt 111 h'' ~~t h<t ,-han~'"'lr,C. f1_.;u~
llt.\lhllltv, f\''c.ut:h, ,uul J,m\Wil'\l)t\' ot .1
lll'l..'h JW th<
'f .l
m;muf.tHn~r ol ,HI )' 'Itt'.
~""tl\hUih''''
n~mn.'n'k't'll'\
'\.k"'~fu1 ll~'l'ltcl
ffOCtd MorkOf
u
PRODUCTION TERMS
FirSt p.lllrt'ft..-\firSt Jllf'm u thor (lorll:lllJI (lolUtrn
df'\dofltd for "1(~ Th<' llht ("llmt " ~rJih

INdt on nutl.on# pll"'"' and ""~"''("\ IItUn ( ~nd ~~
tern corrt~<VIS tuft Ol f"UC't11 ll ~'C'klp'd In tht

"'-orUOQm cunkh 1ft\1NC1td .-.tttcn<o '""' -\n .tWtn
~Gc:~J'~
mtt_nalckStpl.at-n'l rf\1Jrt1 a lullp.anrm l'nln~

tho!' ptft'IMI IS
~ lro.lCD
th( llt'IC'. II Vlo111
~t'JCdO~~!.e'
t(')Ud fot fit tlfl!IO ptrk<l

J'TOdu(tion JUtfn \ pt~IOn JUIICH'I U thor li
nal corttcd ~ mot'fr roM Tbt ~ut1'n ron
uuu ~wr po~nn:n pit<"" MJI'Ift'd ro.1 cocntwcr thcpmmt Tht p.atttm ~ vwd t.. tM (f~ fof Vl
ttl~ ,lnd by Cfx liPti.tf II'Uld fOI Pbfl( b\OUI S
~~ lc. \ P'ltffll (tun ~~ pUad 1n twcn olthor

p~ucm stt anJ a ~'tn t..t as \l!t..:btd to the ~r
awnt iot ~ S ru~ ~"'&at tht hKL 01 t~
book fot ' bbn.l cop).
\l;ufo.u. A m.lf'l;u h the' .,lf'T'J.n:;rmtnt ot p.anttn
pitS. atl'ltr m.anwll\ trkni on nut1an~ p.iptf or
piatltrns bd ol'! ' ipKi.ll p;.pc"r .and pb)to.:Jt:tOlphord.
or pmrmt: J~ dl;:1tilrd I computer .~pplk:,unn 1n
laym~ OUI tht nutL.-1 -\II ~ttctn ~)'mboh a!'('
n'lllhd on the p.lllltffl\ hucnu Jrl" antcrkXil-d;
saz~ arc tn.i'(ed to rtun
nate f.abrsc:
W.lfll'
--.::::
<1r.a1nl1nr.
oo the p.ltl ctn\ ll\ paralld w1th dw kh.tRC ~ilh

Ofllt tJtCi:ptwn; t.rm!l p.JII.:ms JJ(' Ill IMIO ~Utl.lbk
~~' '1\'lttw..n rrprd to the ~Qinhn< lh< 1mnloul
p;.per marl;cr" lad on lOp Of man~ l.t\mof f<~bri<.
P~turn ) are ('lit
--
(I
r
J
etthn m"nuJU) or by rompuur
l<>ld
0
M BlE EOGE
Hitl{!C nh:r. n1<: Hmg..-: rukt \\~OC ...n.ilh .."!'tat,,!

b\ }.:~\ l"k\ E'th "ho f::J:\'C ~~ r.&lt'r to f t~n"'
l\l\"h, \\ht ' \\fC'IO.:: tht ;n.,1TU."ti(II'IS.. ~ \('1'>00 t\f
lin~ mkr rna.' t'C purct'>('d t:hrous,h \t-.."'-""hllrdh
1\rc.\-' In, .
1\.\ril.l
\~"\
\~'
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I"(
nl.k hilt"('.
l'f\'-
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't(~ 'll
'
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,..., ...y,a.a
(\In h;J...:
lh~
1~1 \\ 1-.th'H('I l '

""~ ,,-bn,,...,'OI!l.
16
LAST, BUT NOT LEAST
ChOP* I
lin~r. lli~;
hn.lhWtK th~ lit

1h.1w In ,,oouu\.on_ ,\
good nu~r ~xamln<'~ lmkle ltw garnwm tor (Qf
c\1)' stltch< \4:ams bl:foct' Jn.llydnK tlw Ill fittlnx
S4.'1Sk>clS ind~-KLI: tl~ d~IJtn..-r .15-\IU.ll\1, .101.1 pattern
m:.ku"' tt<lltlm4!, Of fltunx h dollc b) J,fu \lmu
of
finer h
~flncnts
ll'k1i\lk'l1\o\~~ In
for th\'
n~xt
1..1\iou A g.arm~nt olt~n rcq\llf\'\ W'\'Cf.ll t)d~

bttort .a ptrft fit b ~hlt\'nl
Dlglllllllg
BODY SCANNING
lkkh )(.tnni~ t~;anod~tooltlut l~ps lndtnll)' lft
ck'\.;W"K 1tK' bnl )C'I (1/ mt.aw~m for ils CUS

tUti"M'fi. n~ bod)' kJII\Rf!'f I~ a hght-('RUIIIIll; ~i(t
Uut \.ln IModUtt w::uu ~rou~ to 1/16 h-.ch. Bod)'
~nnin~C t.ll.h 1>&a"ln ;a lx:hLIL"cubl:' .and repfkates

the l)llxl) cnc:.a~ur~nle'nh 111 thrtt-dhn('nslonaJ (31)1
fOol nUl St-\'t'f.lllruhvidut~ts, ;as wt'll o:as l:uge roearch
lllit!o h.lve IM:C"Il \o'o'Ofk.in~ o n thb w ncept for )'~Zit'S. It
ha~ 'conk'~' .age,
though Its full potential has
"'Vt'"
)'t'l 10 bt
rNIIt<ct
COMPUTER COMPANIES
(:Om!MIIt'r c:fnpJule-s Ol (f:r auaorn~ted systems t hat
tndlld\' tahtk and JtUt'IH!nt dC')Ign; pattern des.1gn.
Slt.ad~fl&, Mnl m;ukln~; ht.:hS!>C'-'<1 jel !l1ottenc; single
ply cu n~:c~ ' llft,ldlnn and cuttln,::; unltpcO<h.ICllon
'Y't~:m: .anti dtctrhtdc uo:tcldnt: In sewing. ware
hnmhlX. dlitrlhutiOrl, :.nd mlu'lufae~urlng.
\rtviu: to m.lll11factmer~ h)' computer compa
nit\ Volflt'\, (;()ffip.lll)' WCb'lltl"lo .lfC given be~W If
you would Ilk~: "ddlllonal lnfmrn:salon.
1ul.:.tlcth:
www,tul>at~"Ch,corn
{ o (lrl~r; www.~wrtlt'ttt( llllbln)(y.com

1 N ""
www.lrc:u., <bill
Sam pi~ SC""cr. Ute c.kuJt.ntr .ald paut>nunJlo.t'f c,t.:-.

pmd on the C':tptrtlioe'of tht wmplt- 1oe'\'li:t for1n!cx
m.1uon .about tl\\' ga.nntnt 00 ~.am\ m"lt.-h~ .\n11\tf<' too rmny notchn. Of no1 ~nou&h? \re Ilk
001ctw-\ plxt'd COtrC'(tl~~ Art tht't<' dlfh,--uh~ 1n
S('Mn3 thr ~ctnc:'l"lt IO)t'tlll.,
E-FIT SIMULATOR IS BORN

In 20(H, f.. Fit $.1mubt0f tOtt"uc ".a~ dt\ doped ~
the iniW'I\.ath-.: mind of lv:!l ~rt'C'n. prC"''~m ol
Tubftch, wht> thought thilt fit
a.ppr<w.~l,
though
down to ""ce\.., """s not t,OOd ~nouatt for f~~~ fash

lun de\~lo~1. V4ho mn1t11 thttr sampks di&IUI\l)'
tMl tht ~tn~ bod~ -n de<:uonK fotm. E.ofit Simula
IOf ~twau: .lltOW'\ t~
tntitt ~rmt:nt tO bt ~
on .t1 dl:gttal modd. all in 30 CAD.
~uctl~ tlw101me-~~ Ht \todd or 5t foon.Apptythe
fbrK print or co&oc and proputtts to Sft tn n'IOI.U>n
If tht goum~nt ftu on~ mocSd.
Thor rroU.:.S ""'P ~ ~ the g..ar~t b
h;lllt 01 louse. or ~ 1.00 much llQttn.JII at ~
~i'md\t. tunly thor~- 11-.e f.:t modri wouW
II!''~ rrtdbKL The x.-nrv ~ :illolo :be pa.nemrmJ.d tO 'I IR 30enal'r wbeft to ~tbt ~
mmt on a 20 fbt pmtm ~ belt"-;:: c.--: .1 fi2
eiHOOK~lly
\n\)(III'IV."rth.t!ln"t' modd. Oanpr.:~a::!:~
.a fuW ~~ Clll be 1mt decnoaially ~ pclliR

oc W~"!o mrdU rr!O''it. ~
heM ~~ ormmt ioi::IL,) .and iits. 1lw;
an do ~,~ SC$5IOQ) '~

h.""oc hft' ~cva.nywh!ftao4 ed .-
~":nt'l
pr~;.l Wttlun bx;..'" somrumr::s.witft.

out nub.n~. ph'-~ sampit.
lnfocnallon or ln~tructlons. 1\ blank cop}' h in

du<~l in the- b~k of tht' book 01 duplkatlng..
I he oriJt.nal t:QP} h for the manuf11cturcr Ot produ~tlon Jx>twn, who <ompl~cs the 10\\'et pan
(\\l:m~ l arMJ oll and mart-~ ~-..r<bgt-. This piO\'kk'\ th.,.
m"'nufiK:t\rtt \\lth lnformatiOn ~t<quired fiX produc
tloon. "duplk~tt' "-<'P' In lh.,. ~,;r\ room for qutcl.;
tdctcm:c: tna~t\ to1 tt\\f1 lnterrupuoo"S \n tht-
COST SHEET
Ill(' dr-~lf.:ntr, ~\\1\tt'(l b)- d('\.i~n worn IX'fson
tKI, nP)' ~,).("It h . dr.IJit'. '""' u~ ,, romJ>ulcor or flat ~t

tttm ''' crt~t" the '"'' ,,,mpln. A t)'plc.al dt's.agn
,~ h tt.afkd th' .tn "''bt.ant dt'loiJ:net". first j:Nttt:m
1111
nPt.t1, umf'k
~"'''*'
Llrt:,~'
u tlt."f, o11ld
m.at..cts.
ni.IIUIMIU/('1\. ~kl U.t1dK'n, ril IUQdtiS.. .and Olll('r
.11\1\CoJill~
Mch.andl\lfiJt tht' 111M' I) lm l:lOCUOI IO'V+ff'd OUI
ttH"
,,,tn th.Jit de r~ \IC41 ,.,,.n.
" " " "1'
tn
'fh(<
A tOil 'ihett 1~ 11o com,~ctr 1t-cord of ~-~rh d.,.'*Jt" ~nd

is u~ 10 cfnl the g..nllet\\ And ('\l,lblhh tht'
wholt'sal..- prl.
to1 p;lrt of lhc: form Oknn 1
31ld 2) hOO!I\J)ICttd In th(' (k,.j~n fOtMn. It ~hnu\d In
C"IU<k the: naru~ MK1 tMtl)hOtK' numhtt\ uf th('
~I('I-J)('f1,fll and tilt f~bfk 1UHI Ui!U '!t\pllll\~, ,n
wtll a~ fabrt~,; h\'0\tCht'\. a \lo;t1d,, ami 'IX"\1.11 p.atl('n\
n,c:
fin.ll Une as
,,,.tt: '""""" '" tht 1ohonf00fn. taken toft'-
'"'~n' tl\ tt'''lln~ win f(fl'fe1o('ell.t1i'~ w-nt 1'\.11

ronaputfr 11'1UJ:n to hu)~ .and ~~rod throutth
tr.ldt .t\'("fiiWflWflll l/MJ IIUUM( olft 1\('CW<l!I'U.
ffOikKtton 1,u~n dt'\dopmnt folkM'S ~kl
,.net l>n:"~""'" th<' II Mol \.ami*' to ht st"'-n efllotnll'\'
IR ,1 f.t~.IOf) .1nd tn fU ilrt .t\ff~ ('W.l011~. Tht' <k-~ k uw.all\ bl\"'\~ In "In ~t;~h(lUS .and
.11llki:t'li0f\' HUt.llfftl tlw ~~s .anthttiO.
~" m.OC,:.ch lnfolnytiOn ~~ product ck'\'d
,.-n<:nt. R".Jd ,,,J,k l.n1No1ff VnJr. Fifth EdtliOR.
1
"nu~n b). ,h.,uon Ltt ht..-, ;md 1)Ubh'hed b)rt;~t'\Oit.lrtt-nt H.tll
C.UI~l~__! .
~- t . . , ...
_
,._
-
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....
CUSTO)It.R
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t._tr I
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)JCh"il .\"tiU.:<~K~I~I:A~'N..;__ _ _ _ _ _ _ _..J
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1ft!&\ -
111
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ttQ.
)1\ l\r-11'11111
....
--...
---
fl......
hUUIIII
Iii OR:!
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rK
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11[1,.11
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lUll
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....w.u
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tl'U W.
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1-
FABRICS
--
JACKET FEVER
<kuKn ~nmcnt.
PAOERNMAKING ESSE:NllALS FOR THE WORKROOM
21
DESIGN SPECIFICATIONS SHEET

Th~ (~ign 'tXdfi<..' !IOr\S 1h~\ I\ a R.'(Qord of the finl\h\ng rtquh(-11'\('nu fm tl<h ~gn, It is used by tho5.t rtSl)Oil-lJble fm fltthhlng to~nwtt- that It~ garmt"1ll metUcompiny su.nd.lrds. Study the chan artdcomp.ue the
lnfotn~tion to tlw de1tgn \t l i:"J)It-Wm'
, .....
-/1)_1#<'<'<
~
.u Iii>)
~2. Sb# r1;..tt ~ ?.O ~tr)

I ..,,.._~.L.
J:f.Otll'.l ,U'fYiiJlt: fUICJJ 11t1

J _l!-.11-.-L
'"7..;- ....... .w > "'!ffL .

-xrs .......... ,...,r,.....,.,.:,c .
~Jt
,......,
- ... '11'"
lo.J<.. II" rs.
- ... ~ .t ......,....~ ~x;;::~.
.....-
-- .
-~
..
WHO IS THE STANDARD

IDEAL FIG URE?
IJ
Form
chapter
z_
Measurements
and Figure Analysis
---
2l
WHO a tHl s~C)(N..fG.II(t
2>
DooM . .(UI'4 ,...,.,. MclYt' 1fot ICJC>(1
2l
Oo~lAohO~M&:Jn
~ ~'t0"111
~~~~
"""'IN
rOJSflrt' $fANDI\JIOS
Of.IWHMfHl STOlE $1AHCWK)S
OTHRAJT(MP'fSAl Sf~
A.STM saA,NC~AJtos
r~ Mdyflt1 Jor ~use cw
~MA~T{A'MS
.31
ME~NG l'(lQM NfO MOOH

Pftf)OI'I"'I lht Form 10t Mt<tsunQ
.31
32
Pr~ . . MO<Jit lOr Me<MI.K"'
'I<V ..nQ MeO'.u!OO\OM
' ....33
ttOQIZONfAt8MAHC liNE (Hil)
CIICUMf-EMNCE fOR FORM AND MODEl
MEA5URMENlS
. . .3J
r'OI'l'
. .. .. . ..........311
IY.Jt:k
. .. . ...34
~In! lc~t PorK)(IOI fl,

Ntr:lt Cllcurnfi'JrGne
, .34
. . . . .311
...34
VliHICAt MliAWR'EMWIS FOR fORM
AtfO M001.
, .. , " , ,
ftot\l or4 flOC~- -fetm and Mo(k)l
PI tonal ftl A.\.,rntr>~JIIiC: \A)ftf!CO!~
f1.IW S!rtlJ) tl~ll'ol)(l"of.tt'\1
,fAtiOAPO ~fASOII'(MWT OIAA'I
p.lny. tkt \lat~Lm,h """ wh.ttC\'t'r 1.UC~\Iul m.:anuI.:W:hm:n.. comri.Ctd~l p.ltttul ~.:oenp.mk'\, ~;h;aln ~nd
dep.lltn.ent
~totn.
.and \00\1\Ul.ll t<Mm
(ll')oftlp.ll'lt('\
~y
thocy ~~~- S.l(' h .a fUC'm. ,.,,~h.-. li~uu:; \hr h ;a ~

()( lllC!'.IWf~nl~Jlt\. And litf \llhtJtM:Ut ttunjt(:\ .It tht
j.lrg.ht~l whml of f.a\hiOr'l \I~ h<f''\kk"f('d ~Mk;at
only w-ht"n Mr r~;a.,ur(1n(flt\ \.\U\ly ~ nut'J(it)' ~
roo sun~~
WhO Needs Her?

ltchnkUm ntotd htf dimt1IMOI'U fa( pauffl'ln\lLin~
and fitUrt.g\;~ntn rM:'ni htn \.llhautttC' (cJf UNU~
mow c~ewgn,. m.~nur.~octurcon n<"td IM'f few UWY~<~,~
mockb flC"((( to N''t' hn dln)t'tl'\iOnl tobt hUt'd; ,.nd
conwl't'ltf'n n('('d h ror u.._..rrt-pt(wnt.a.tiOn.
Evt'1t though IWJ dim('mlont. vary, \ht l~ hi\\'t"

~t.-.ndard~. $h(' b \ynuntlrk~l. v.!th :m ~,~prtgln
11<111 ~ond IIC\Ih<'tll...;'l11)' JIN'inl; bod)' ptOfiOrtiom.
with a fJt\o of 10 to 12 l/ZInt:h dlfftt<'tllt"\ .unong
bll~t, Wi'llst, Ollld h\,~. 1 htW ~t,lrldiHd~ oUt.' bl~d
ltt,ctl)' o n \\'e"-ttrn c:orlo~,cl"~ll of wh!U l\ !tkal. 1herl'
will n~\'t.'J \)l',. un\V('t\ally ..CCf..-pt;lhW \\\nd1ud t"~t
cauw uf the v.uiNY of .matomlt.JI hll.l' ''-' IYfl'l''
Oth~r c:O\.UUII~\ wt thC'Ir own ,tand~rth ~~~tl c1n
thdt own tt-glon:al roncept rlf the ld\,lliii{UfC.
5011\C m ,muflt'-1\Ul'l'l< !HdCt llCll I() II'\' \hilld:Ud
HQ'IIZOHfAl ARC fOA FORM AtiO MOOEl
MEAMtMEN1S
C'<VIvt'd from ~'~Ull~ f~);I\Ck 10 IN)~f. bu)'t"f tO

tn."'ll\lf....turc-:r. ,11\d 1'1\:llhii.M:turll f lO n ..:I\M fo)lmWm-
Does This EluSive Figure

Hove Slondords?
to<Cioonl
v.
She Is n <'Of'llt)t)\11~ flg\lfl' whtN.' m~.I\Utl'in~:nt ''""'

daub oiTC 1).'1.5((1 \ll'ltlll\ whO h lhkll~f\Jt to \\htloln ')t$o
...35
.35
,, .36
3S
.36
W.cd m'-'11).\U\:UWI\\1oo,
\'t\~'{ w"nt t he tllxlbltll}' to
Ch OU\8<' 11\l.'ll\liiCIIlelll\ Cl ii\Cl:ly IU w U ~-,1\lUillN

net<d5. ln<!tc:nlng wofld u.tf(' ha\ u~.ucd .l rwt:d tor
a ~.:cntr.JI dat>lbMc th:l .,;cmti.dm u::glon .ll llll'.l~tn\"

m cnts for non.\Ve'ltcrH t r.ldhlj; p.ult\t'f' C'clnl illlh'f
tt~;hnoto~~ may 1.1\tlmat..-IY iHO'''d"' '""'d~ .It:"''" "'
~uch lnfunnullon.
Do Perfect Rollo Meosuremenls

Mean Perfecl Proportions?
Not ll\'\'t.''n.trll) "' llut\t. t llt,hl dhtrthtllltll\ .au"""''\
tht,.' ~"clct.l\lr.llli\'lllll'l 1"1\' Hll\,idt n-d tot l'\.lll\l\1,

\.&ffi.C 1M~ l., ,\1\d \Ill .ali bml l.&QI.\' htl\1 .Ill\ ,m.lU \\,h \.
wid\'. 1\,U hflnt \\.\hi ..all\\ tlluthl'' jlf\liHJIII$01'-k lo.
w~&ht. l.UJ\l' hll' .-nd 11.11 '"'Ill.\\ h. 1'"'""'11'\S, ,,,.,11\

.rd\ .uul ll.al btlll\111:~'
24
ChOJ)1tf2
PATIERN INDUSTRY
STANDARDS
In lfil)(m\(' to 1\ntklclal '1-lllnd:ud~ :md lOrHum~n
r\ttd s, tht pantm lndu"tl)'t!.tll!blhht I hi! \lt~Mnr

m~ru Stil1'W.brd Commllt("(', v.hldt c.kvbtd \h own
standard loft of flf:\H~ typt\ and 'bet.. n,r tll.:unpln
bdow arr C'Oin~ilt) ol II)( (Ut'm Jndu.nry dells
l\lltOO Hgurr tyl)ts by agt and htlgtu Cll~n.. T'ht
me~t.ur~mtnls art listed Orl th~ p.aHtrn tl\\~iopt'.
~r SUI\cbtds ml)' ah~~)' ~ lnflutnc:td by t~
A~riart Sock1y tor Ttstin~ and \tatthal\ CASThl)

nd Tr.uiJt ClochmJ ThWkJI&) Cocp's ~I liSA
NatW)NI Slu Sunt') mus.urtmtnu.
DEPARTMENT STORE
STANDARDS
Ottnmtnc uorH .l.nd ntalog mtn.:h.,ncs such u
Stan. Montgome-ry \\'Jrd, and Sptqtl hot\'1' drt\~1.
o,lN.I lhf'u own ~rla spttlf~om IP ,..uw,. lht
Mtdsollhtlraastomtn. ~U\tOC havtu\fd N

ttoml Burtau of StandJr<IJ. mraw.rtnw:nu. Othe-rs
conduct wn'tys llnd \:lm&ltrnp of th4! popubtion b).
\endmg 1-urvty fCifmt to thtlr {Onsumcn, rtq~Ung
their me.asurtrt'lents. nm lnformauon b compiled,
;tn<l spe<lfic;rUon shettS :u" gh~n to lht m..anuf.tt
curer ro Uf<.' rn \k~~f()tJirtC p.~Httnf for lh<'tr <M
surnerS. JCI~nncy. Vktorl.l'~ $!."{ret, .. net Joc-key 00\\.
uJt- ,\STM lTCJ) USA N,llion.al Site Sur'V\:y for their
mtaJ\uemcnl\,
OTHER ATIEMPTS AT
STANDARDIZATION
Atttm)lt\ tO SUndlrdi7,r '5i:= in ~ oe!.plly btp.n In th~ bitt: t~. .,...htn tn~nufacturc:n ftl.&U.
pr~ bm~ bbol: ~.ai'Uforms m Sttla!l., mtdiurn, and
~~~~icbproo.W~dwtidal.lbtntXttf
Jon "''U m.dt ~- tbt ~- m tt\ attempt to rnm.
proctutt ""~ uru:fonm. ln 1901. tbt: icdml
80'\'ftnn:lmt CfQU:dO't ~ !lurt2uoi5un4anh.
I"",... Of--
............""' ~"" lht

it~& ~"C:mtrm.. ~ l9'i0, ''"BS bid ~
COOipku 'Silt. ~ 1oQDI1a:d bbe:S OQ fNq~
._....,.,,bomlq<-..
O(d>o~
ASTM STANDARDS
1ht ~ Soott\: fot Tts:Jng u.c! \hn>O put
nmd\frltb
rrcr t."'SA~SRtSt::\-ey nwpc:..
pos<O(~bod;
"'""""""""'""'"""
fittingot;~ 1lw mes:Kh was~.~=-surq
I0.0005Ub;<as.mc..bodio...,.<all!><d. .,..., .....
drtd pcMU ~chosen foe~ be)~!\' c:n5W:t-
mmts.. For -lldd:~
~:JOD no !0 on5tr Silt

~nh. roatxt AST'M ~t 100 B.m !-b..-t:Jot DL., Wet
Coruboht'!Cio;,m, PA 19-1...18.: phone 1bl0\ S]z.o.ss.s

'Tbt foUc:no,."'"' ~ oi ~ :ct ~-.ibbie
ChikSitn: Slle$ .:: to ox;- or&r = !158.!~;:~

Adult FtnWt~tisscs:.S~JnZto ~ardtf \D&S..."SI
\\Omen ~ss .md OlOC. ordtt 1D...'-'-"t>1
\lenS\<.c~r: ordet = Dt\:!:40-~ 1 .::aot>
27
26
Cf'.<JPlef 2
Figure Anoiysls
or rorO.enl
tor Pe~onol use
If .lVI, /ittJ j, /, U ,,,..,, ptt~l.
,,.~""'ti"'T II ) lfK J'ol(

U(rl t!Jot II'NUllY fN'ftd, 1111( WW' f'in"
To bl-~'1_, tht> prOC'\"'-"- i t~~~~ tw ,...,.,.,..,.,... to,.,
SC":n
ttl<"
lln~UC'
dt.u;lle1C'fU.I) clol tiW OO.fl.
ti!Mn~e
tt'IC';U)Jft'd TIN".IJ')()Ikl \hNk.1 "'<.t.t .a k'o.,lf.udc~\-.. K1:

ubrly ~>vrn ~nd.luon lt-'n1wnt" for t.aJ..mx ell<",)
JUf'('ltWf\4.. So~Jllt'f
~ 'to~}.c,)t..>goj'l\ ol
tht f'tnONI \l"'*'utnoc'llt (.h.ut Ql'"l ~~ I!
tKh troUP ul ~ uJUIIOtt' b .alptuktl.ml
tA tbh~ Jt, .and QCh f\$utc '"'thu1 tlw ~our h
Jl''t'tl ~ nwnbrt Llrtk dtt' nwr.Mt thJI -'I'J'I'~ to
\Wf IJltUrf'. ttwfl ~II uno.:kf tht' .apptopl-11\' kt
1 on dw ~
\k.nuttnWnt Ch.m
A' HeOCI Holghi- A. Meosur;r.g Oevlce tOr

Comparison
ttw kn~th Q/ yuur h<':ld ffom the top
,,,..,.,utt
of t h~ un,.,.n I f~ chin k\"CI. U~ th~ h('.1d 1~.

'"n11lCIIr f\1 m.uk cKh PI'C'Ild k"1gt l'l dtwn fro m
th~
._t,ln.
Ch<' bfrw f jr~\ lM!hind tilt- ~mplt> rnodds mdi

C.llt' h~l kvth 1ht" bfol.(-n lirWS <S1ing the
._una\lt> nwdth 11\d!Gtt> whotf<' the bu.St point.
ltlf' cnM'h. omd knC'C" o11tt in rc..,.t,on to tht: sun
~rd hc.ad 11\,Uk.\ ~ tht pc-tft mockl vrlth tM
blu... k'Of-.11\1
t:c'lflli).,U\' ~,...,, htad b;.alaons mth lhot n\Odet.
lt()fd if the tc<auom Ol.f(' ~ or bdcJw flot..-f
~orb .a.t bun _
\'l"<a1i-l ~ hil' ~ ~ _ .
\'
/\:
8. Sod< lvpes
f,h!f \phM: h.t.\ .a ~h (\U\C 01.1'\4
JUght pXludl~ bcmod.
I,
2. fWt SttMght b.w:lr.<"'"'"'-~

bou~b to be' proC11h~nt
l.
'N
'~
Rt.l!,,..._ Oomln~nt \4,lt1C' C\ln~
v--
/'
,,
..,
.and pt()llllnmt hl.tHod

"
D.m~J,t<T-l lmlrtp \hou\ditc'\ (All fuc'1.trd 1R tht'

t"li:Ut"mt
C~/a
......
R-IOOShlp
~ &:st hu::octs r-~ -ll
I.
~ hl..r1:'boo ous 1d;atiaroba....
!.
'\".lf1t* N-.1..:\r::tt" blnt.
l.. f"ll ~J...~ hut.
D: Hlp Typos
I.
..
nr.z ,.., """""
;;;;:;--
...,..,..~.I
(.Jv
~~ ~~
Mcvl: mc.t\ /11~ ptQJIC'tl l(ln

:nll()ng w.thtHllnuld\'r'\/ hlth
2. JllWf d111111:: PJottut\11\.:

n)tlf\dnt.''f' frurn w.thl. J c'J('
tend 1ll mc~l ,H ctot(h.
3.
.H10 typo
'IIIUtl fl' dMfll:; ~llli.IIC mttlf\Ul\
\ld\' \i:olll\\
{lldlllt"~</ ''11'/"-. \\ldnl I"''''''

th\' hlp h'tw ctl\t\h,l\11'-"'l ''' '
'\ttiIIICf \~,1ht ,11\\1 \h~~'M'''
l"
"
~
t
~'\\
E: Arm Type$
t. IJNf~ Ftnh ;u"" IJQIK' m ptffl
b.utnOI~)'
!. 'IJtPt ~ ;tJirltu;n)('(', 1uth

ptetRI'K'f1t ...,bt. ttbol\ Jn6 ihnUkk'r
.....,_
J.
...
FuSI~ Jlnh )'""'~to t;~ll u~wt<~

oltht ann
~ loflt'stNCIUt('OO'o't'"mi "'llh
'
fkSh. ~ tw J~IM lrorn top of
H: Sho\Adef/WOdl/lli;>
the' .lrM.
1. ....,. Shouldtt:
z.
4 . Wi.k WX'IIUtr
To compaff'. h.J~ t~ ~nt

"!It'"' yuyr pro{lk. If )'OUt $h.J~pt
S~~PtNI \ltoiiMC'I: MO!

t\'1..111
zs.
J, ~I'"'"' dwultk'r. Near 90

an glt with ntock.
-1.
M;)(';llllf:
Nec:t.: to
shoulder.
s.
IWuy: Dominant cla"lete.
l'Ur"',. ...&:5!.
s. s..,. ~ ritr~
1: leg Types
I tlueuzh -1 ldmtifJtd bl- thai ~
I '
J: Figure Sto~
The modeh 1tM~ JlfitaS lbt ~g ~ Nb~ of
~ttMnts. f'atttm adtus:.mmt ~iD bt ~
G: Shoulder types
t . t.k.d: Shouldoct sklpe iS
appn'l:-:1matoCiy zs.
2.
. Crw.~ ~ .l so:YII..mst.
l. S#.;~~Jftt lilr. Sl.;ttt ww ddil'NtiCA.
f : Abd()mlnoi/Thlgh
dlff~n fron1 tM t-:umpks.
fC'CQCd on tht ~norul M~r<"
nt\:nt Ch~tt undtr "()t\'i;nlon."
~ lu;) tn ~
) .l
'~I
.\
~~ '"'~
4
,, ,~,
j
.I
'N
_-.:..
\)\
1
?
l ......
..
-"
-~~~
FORM MEASUI~JJ.ENIS AND FIGURE. ANAlYSIS
c~niN ~t;
,..,"(._
r orms Me \Ointtlmt\ hnpc:rft\t, w1th rTM:&..Utt1nenu
2. (-C'Illf."t fronl wah'
<c-ntt'f back. "o~bt
J. fl.uj.l 1:10iiU"
1. (.t'ntC't tront bu~l ~~~ (br1"f'C"'l ~ut points}
s.
\1id4tmhok fr<Nlt
\fkl..trmhOit bK~ t~l

1. 9MJukkr lip
Shoulde-r~~
~~ \\ilh pl~tt'
screw)
nm tshookln/ntt
0Rhln1t dept-n<b on nttAwreronm ulm (rom

a form or rnodt'- \it-A\uh.:mc-nt mu\t \x talr.en catt
full)' to A\'()id ftttlnJt prohltm\.
Rc<ord mC'asurflT\l"nU. ort tht form or \iO<kl
\IC":as.urt'mtnl (hart found m n~ bKl. of thC' tut.
The- chart an bt rc-mo\'1.-d for duphc~tlon
Penonlll mC'uurt'mc-nu. RtfC'rC'n to penonal fit
9. ArmhOle- rkl~ Of roll lint
~~~~ ,, '"'""' wm ;lomp~~n) ~ of tM tn

i.lf\l(tloo'\
10. PI-'IC' Kft'W

11- Armhokpblc-
FltQNI
noc atY.drs equal on c.ach \l<k' ol tht ttJ1ttr. C:htc:L

and rtmtu\.o the side wanu U nC!t't"S~t)'- nw ~ldl.'f
l!nt fniY be mhplc:'--d, c~u\ln~ a \1-\-.: lO han~ out
61 allsnment {llth probkm h ron1.l"d at tht ume
of U\t f'iltlng. I
SWk front (JHill<'f'UI
\idC' bAd. (JHUltnn

6.
MEASURING FORM
AND M ODEL
1. <:cnlt'r froru ned:
Preporrng the Form for Meosunng

Figure I
SlOE
&bt bti.~: Cut a \trip of cklth 1 t/2 'X lb in<h~.

Fold cdgt\ to u~ntc-r And fokl olg)ln PI~ .Kf'O">\
hu\t pOints, ('ndinJt I lnch Jl.aSt the": side- \('a.m.

l~sh plm thr0\1-Jth to ~"'urc-. fl m unrlftded
length fhru~t pin\ through '"""' point'\_ \t;ul..
Symbol Key
CF C(!ntcr from
Clt Center bad;.
ccnt.:r Unt.
Wci#Hfla.: Rtpl;) \\JI1tlhlt' til~. I( d.Jm.lfti.
frg.Jro 2
l'inl~t,,,J jlliiJt'~: 'rhuHt JlliU throogh ihould~r tt~l
at the r1dgc, or rull line. mld.-.rmh<'llt: at 1c\d
\'o'lth the ,,t:~~c mC\\, ,uHJ .HS Inch bcl(lw the
center hont 1\l"C.'\.:,
BP nust point
SS Side $cam
SW Side waist
Sll Shoulder
1-tBI. lloritontal
C~GE-
3\
bahm
line
Sl-tTW = Shoulder
til>
flguro3
J\rmlullt tlt'l'''' dwrl: to hK.llc ,wnl\Ok \1\.>pth.

(hOOi~ the !llc.'-''unucnt from til\' t\tmh\'llt
l)~'lllh Ch.ut h~tnw th.lt C\~tf\."'-1'~<)1\d' h' ttw t1..lml
SIIC. M~u\uf~' dUWil ltO!ll tlw .umhtl\C pl~ll' ~nd
thrtl\1 '-' J1lll htM\ ,\1 tlll,' h'K,lthll\. tif,lllC \IJl ('If
down h)' 1/g 1nc;h (pr 'm.\lkr (II l,u):cr \111.'' ' '
\VIIh t'\lolhll~h\1\,Jo: ll wt ~~11'\ll',\\\lf\'lll\'1\h, thl'\ ;II'\'
to b1. tt'l llthd \\ lth \ll"t'W .~u." h\''

fll\llt\l'lll\ 111\\'\\'\\..lt\
\II\' H"
,,,,.
\1~
\Ill' l l l'
~/b
\Itt' 1H
I '
I
l '
''"' \1110 \
,,,,. ' ' \n l I~

\ I 4
,.,, It\
"''"l' ''
.. . . .,..., r
'9.re2
C> o'>eOO
-...cU
----=
!--
,,Of!IC:I:h
MoO-O-""* t*"t'<eeC
t
.T4;
- -
FORM MEASURa,.,E.NlS AND f\GUQ ANALVSIS

32
ChCJplet 2
Platt th~ mtt~t tip end of th~ liiiX'

m~a~mt at On<" tdNtnct point and
e'>t~nd to tht ne.xt rder~n.ce 1)()1nt
wh-<!n lillkln~t 11\C'1Wrc:met~h
R<-cord mtJ)mtnlC'nt) on ttw MOdtl
Ha'~ ~ ftlrnd u~kllll mt-"urin~ ~f'ld t('('(lfdill$ OJ\ ..

COPY ol lht f't>r.sonll Mt;urrmtnt Chlln. jM.('t' .16
lll(' mock!! JhcXdd l'"C'U .a /!Af)"IIJI Of tt.>41ftJ \\llh
gu.IM lound.ation SltmfflU: wom uncltmt'Jih
}.f(',lSUftfnctll (1~1ll Of 0\lUI 01

tht fl(ononlll Mn~n<"ntn t Uun
found atth<' bac:\ ol the t<"~tl-
'v
Numbe-rs In p.rentht\n OOff<'

spond w1th thOM' on tht <:h.att
lbl
Io I
Arc me;uurtmtnt\ art ta~\ frQom

C'ltnltf lints tO lht ~ M'lM\
'912
The YMC' tu.lf ot tht front .11nd bacl

oi tilt form 1\l'n<'awml
Figl.l'es Jt g. h.
Dtnt.ins rlw mod.tl; 1M: front cttJillint ~~ plucd bt
f\'IW"n the tMu. tu\'tl. and crotch. Tht b;,d; (h.Jik
hnt- Is ctmtr\"d along tht tptnt lint. mast o( tht
00110C'kS. a.nd betwffn the It~- Tht front and !Nd;
modeb ((;and 1tJ .art m.arUd, .as follows:
Ct~rnplfflng 'flt'CAimr. With rultr pl.,cc:d .lt tht ctnttr
lines an4 to the dOt m.ar~' n1 cbVIdt and napt, dr~w
center lines to neck.
With ruler on shoo1dC1 w.am, draw liM 10 ntc:k (c).
MldotrnNMid: W1th Jrms tO tilt' Hdl!1, m.uk tht tncl\
of crtaw- lint \\1th dott o r W1th ttr.. lght pin\
c:rosstd.
Arm.hof~ d.tptll: Platt fmgrr undrr tht oHI'l'l wh('ff'
lck musclt aDd .um a-nkub!tt Ch ..lkmo~~rk "' lx'>t
tom of the f!ng~r at U6e wo~m IU.
Bust brldtt: Sl't pagt 31, fi,R\H(' lftJr tn\lnKUflt'l\,
Wais!llnr lxmd: Plact il bdt, f'l.tU.c, c,: h.wd <tlff1
fottably Cnot too t i~ht f Jtound 1tw w,.1, 1
!lAC<
Preparing the MOdel tor Meosunng
fqnS2c.<le
J..'dthnc l):)t m.at1. nonttt oltht d.a\'kk bont ,.
(ftlr.tt front ;mel lht domlnlnt bont II'Uiptl .lt ct11
ttr bXt nL Tocompktt tht ntekhnt slupt. pb
~ dt.batt chlin ntellk'r Mound tht model '~ ntt...
roochin; dot m.arts. ClttNU) du ntddt.nt CUI'\t
with a finr-potnt ~t pm..
Taking Measurements
1<1
33
f<fl
(>oN ...
leor~ll
.....
tr\e hOI'Ilot'!IOI-- ;-'-',.----:
_,.,
~W'Qn-!J
HORIZONTAL
BALANCE LINE (HBL)
(eJ
Fig.Jr"' I. 2.and 3
~ l
Mt.l~Utt Utl from lhC' noe>f tO the pin

m.ut.. (XIU cenu:r front (Figure 1}.
Use- tll11 mtoa\urtmtnl 10 mc.uur<"
up from the flOOf l'tnd 1,1n m.\rk ctn
ter back Olnd 1klt \~;t rm t1tn miltk,Jt
prtncc11 lines. llcche<L me;mue

m~n11 (Figur<'~ I 3nd
:n.
Or;~w .-line aro und the hliliOI.Chln~~o ~.,ch o f the
pin mtuks. or uw .ldh~\lvt li>e to m.arl.. the

hiplln~. Th~ \IJndard h!J) depth Is 6 to 7 ln<he1
I I~ ,
i:
IJ
CIRCUMFERENCE FOR
FORM AND MODEL
MEASUREMENTS
'
I"
PcrsOnl'll fit. ft'lllow th~ lnmuc:Uon~ wry c.udully

0\nd doulll~ chetk. If hu:ou~t. lhl' hl!rnllne of tlw
skirt will n ot 111\ns; I,IHallcl with thl' f1t'Ot.
Ill
down (r<un th~ ctn tcr front waht foe juniOr\ :md
petltei, 8 to 9 hlchrs down for ml S~)' she.
Cgl
I I
W.thr (.11. \muml \hU\1

U\#.I.Utll ( II. I hl\'\' hl\1\n t\\ l,m \\.1.11
IIIJI ,.,,, \h,l.\111\' \\hk\1 ,H\;\ \\llh '"''""' l'""lk1
\\lth lllll'll I'll\ h' llUtl.. IHJ' I, wl " ,'('niM 1n'lll
tnh'm<tlln ,\, \ l'"lnt\
\
0 ~'"'-"- -
''
~I
FORM t,.if.t&JREMEN1S Atll ~ ANAl'tSJS
HORIZONTAL ARC FOR

FORM AND MODEL
MEASUREMENTS
-7
VERTICAL MEASUREMENTS
FOR FORM AND MODEL
Bock
.....,.
nt't1 OZI. Qont" bkt nt.. IU ihoukkf ,\I
"--l
At'l'l''
to C'IC'I'IIC'I
mk.l-.umhcM at ridge of l'lnhC',ld,
' ' """'' str<Hr/flu (ln Shouldtf tip to Cl."nh~t front
oed..
Amh dtt"'l (J$J, Ctnlt'r front to I Inch Jbo\1.'
~'~""~'mholc ll,illh~ad l'!),ut:.
IJUd ,11\ 111'- (t'!Utr front. 0\'tf bUSt point, f"lld
11\j: tnd~ b\iol.,.. .IITI'Ipbt-.' Jt stdr w.un.
.._., ,.,. , W4 "-k~ t:~.pt .KJ'OS.S tMt poinu,; ;.h
h;.rn.t....: ll'h. CffttC'f front ..'bSl to SKit .aiM
......
U.Jif ,.,.~lttlfl 1101. CtntC'r
"''m
Al\f,.,m'lf"' 1111. Cmtet front to Sid<' ~:~m, surl

!rig j tncf.n ~n !rom v.J.iSI.
1/ipiArt" 12.1i. CC'f\lt't front IO$id.e ~.l!UOil fiAI.Iin~.
Hlp tftptft (.lSi. Ccnttf front to HBL line.
form being rnt-.1)-Ufll.~.

Uust rtt1lfu.f (9). Mc:nutc from bu~t 1>0-int ending
undtr bust mound to rib ~AhOvt.
IJ.ift plo~rt:o:ru (20}, Cc111Cf N~;k w.al\1 to \Ide

~ lptinSs line).
Front and Bock-Form and Model
ll~loutrtu
'K t12J. Ct'nt('r bK.. to ~de' wain, ~tMI
tront co sidt frotu
tpnnm\ lltkl.
to sldt wai~.
Sl10t1hltr Jru,'(lll (UJ. Shoukk-t tip to ntd1..

Sidt> lli(J ok'plh t26i. st<k' w;tht to IUU., on side of
Hud me ( U}). Cente-r lxtek tO l"'nom ttl

II;Jt<',
ll'orltr lin' (19). Cen ter b.H:l: w.lli$1 to \Ide wniu
lng lf'K'hd down from n-;tii-1

111/'IIKfZJI. Qnter bxl.o Sklc woun 0.1 UBI. lln.c.
1111 11tpllt tZ$1. Cunn ICl:. '~.al.\t to 1181 lhw.
\"llk in tutl tor ~Jwmnnn.
~.arn
ba<1i.
Jhtlli.{ b.xt ( 16). C...ntl'f back to I lndt ~l")()\'t' thi:
A<P
fiOu'es 9 <*'0 10
S.iat kr~S!h (I JJ. rln ~k htk)o.\ ;lfmpbtt at~
t/.ooldt:Y (I.JI. ShtMIIck"f til)
n~k..
Fronf
Model for Personal Fit

F.gt.tes 80. b
Flgu'es ll. \2. ll. 14

Cnrltr krrtt/t ($1. M;u._ oc<k tOl'IOliSt (0\tr brid~l.
FuU lof$1h t61. \\'.;a,tst tU ~1-.oukiH .;ac nee'"- panllcl
,..
23
0.
-r- e
23
tr..mool' lo~ndrNtk to lhcnUM-t,thcndwtdl

lmnof tht
trom o~nd lck ;ue tknmt~.'l) nnum:l. mNiurt ltt>m lht' (tnltr lin-t tn tht 1.uk 1.1..mn (.t"
ll.co 1t1on1 .u"ld h.1d. hotHcr
1ft ho~lf o~nd reconkd. If tht ..-cntt:t
tlnck c,rcumferonce
Mtw.utf' Mhund IIH U jlpl t rwd;, tllvldt hy \,
IN'Qtd In \ lt.tfl' fllll.
~1 11d
liiUa- ~ ~ Ul t ' inch

tht' \hou\dcn. .;an- "'w1QinftnC:.
Skk lrir \tt.a.wrc- both snk ~~ lt-1. of mns\IJ"~
tn('ftU, dllft1 n1Cft thilsl S inch, tl'le hlp 1\ ~'mmc-t
tiC'. Th~ p.iltt'tn\ ~ll be drJ.t1t'd on iokk'od f'lrt'' an..1
dl'ru..,td l;ltn
Figure 15 and 1 o Ne" ~D

Measurement
.xt mrw hp 0.: ~me~:: r< .11 ~..,.

~I'W\-1.. tC1o ~lUOC C!l the ..-&Q ~ ..: tJ'It
"
"
\ft-.nurcme-nts an bt-t~kcn .IUU\\ th<' model
:,.--'
L-1
....
.l5-.
-,. .I
I
~ nn n;ht md ldt \i6n..lt Uw
~opt n'IU\Uftln<'nh
f'O'JIO I I
e-C:/
Y......,,....
Shouldtr slopr (}1. Ctoltf lint ~t v.~bl tO tht

shoulde-r hp Cm.;atk).
Bus.r dtptlt (9). Shoukt('t lip 10 bu~t poitll.
0 ..
Personal F11 Asymme:-ic

Veroficatoon
\<oith af\1('( linn..
0-~
@1-
~ ~.m
m.s t\'lftl.
)
o.g...
~o
0
ShCIJI'f o'lflol l
' ........
Is
--
"'''"
Standard Measurement Chart

CtiCtiMflJI(r.V'
1o1 EASVRf:..\ff'~'TS
r--~
I. 1161:
..
....
...---...
]1'- '
JS-'1
"
,)L
",.,_ ,
.
,"'
..
,..
urru TOJ:SO
s..c~~
,.._ FleiiiJitl
-...-...-_
-
p.'r,
I ~.If,
~i_
j,.\',
1\
-~
"'"
'
.. ...
LOWI.RTORSO
~
""'
_),If,
J,'!,
....
front
lj..
').'"
-,;,;-
Htpckpth:
Gmkrfl<'ltll
~!('t h.K'o
...
1-'1,
~
!l 'J,
Mit
".."'
,..,,
.VI,
..,,
1111,
II-.,,
'),
,,.,,
.....,.
- r')..1, -
,.~,,
SlOt hp <k9Ch
,." ....
1$-'>,
<~'!.
16
"u "'"
Mil<
fvCf!nn'
" ' -....... Alii . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ,.... . . . . . . . .
,, .
"~
~
~........
J'l..
--
..
~.
K-'1.
?'1,
, ,.
...'t,
!~
7.'f.
:..,_
.....
11).'1,
,."'
..
"
,.. ,,
ll, I
"
~
""
.
.~.,.
]1,
'f,
1.1
'1,
11 ,,
11 'I,
14 ,,
"
.i.~:
...'I.
IO.'t,
~~
....
II'C.
~...,
....,_
]
]
II-~
10.'1.
....,,, ....
"''J'l,
J."'f..
1-'1,
8--'1,
3"1..
~-t...
..,,.
OlE IA$IC Oil($$ JOUHI)AIK)H
?'1.
...
9'4.
9'1.
9'1..
1().11,
10.'/,
10.'/,
10.7,
~'I;
~.
s.'t,
A'4
""'
2A-'I,
..:w.,,
,..,,
"
,,,
'1.1'1,
vc.'J,
ftf If,
2.i .,,
1....,,
"" 'f,
21-'1,
." .
II
'
9 11,
10.'1.,
tO.'f,
1111,
"?
=-
~~,~o ~e
PontM~~
-~
t"ocr~ 01 Oeer!ose ""'e Sceol

~ oroeo.a..Cop<:st
s.e-ng~~ r"Q.~:...,.,...oe
Mc:Aiol ono Comc:lu* ~

FRONt toOK::l DIAfl
lACK I()OIC( OCIAIT
o.a.c.no """'
E-.d.Jcte "!"'e PO"oQ anc ~ e1 -e ~
tnctoW~Q 0'1(1
A4
Flt"nNG fHliOOIC(
44
Pottem COffeCIItOn kit N'(fn'MI'l'ICCII Modeb 45
~~
finiNG
ntE ,l(CJC\Ifol(
fm\HG IHE AAM~tOU
$1C1AT OAAFl
SkW"I ffOf'll onCI &oct
510ft 8oc1c (k)f s...n and Sopototes)
Flt!IOQ !hot Slurt
SlLf.EVAlUAIION IRUE A.N0 fALSE TEST

PQEAARIHG PAntftNS JOA lEST FIT
Mole~ .Joii"*'' Seoms
Slto~
,.,mlnotoov
SlfEVE CloSt EASE

Arn'llOI MeosuromOf\1
SlEEVE MEASUA'EMENT CHA~T

SlUVE OQAfl .. , , ..
....
..
SlNA$5, ~<NG A\.~

$Qf.V'o~Wo'~ 1"..${
CCW.1PI.f!l"..G nit;,.~
~9fT! 'r'>~<ln
Sean~
eosc~~~-~
"'"
"'.,
"'
...
""...
.a
.a
"'
"'"'
$1
$2
.66
"'
$(>
.$1>
.$1>
$1
"
....
:!j. .,,
u.v.
I+'.C,
11-'11
'"u.,,
.,,
Oeer'T'lf'W'tQ Ct EOMl
3'1,
,,.,,
I+ 'I.
1\'/,
ADAm". . Sl&'Vi 10 I.N'I.Q! ~ !C101:;i_
o .otng &Ollie~
1Ht: BASK: SlUVE ,
II 'I.
t().'f,
....,.
.....
~
.....
,..,..
....
Drafting the Basic

Pattern Set
t;.,,
1'1.
..~.
1~'1,
P''l,
..~
~'
A-'1,
,.,
IS.'r,
ol().'f,
...
lj.'l.
21 .,,
IS"-
-4-'t,
,, 'lo
ll ,,
""
..
.,__
11-'l,
t ).
42-'1,
1'1,
"
<1(1.\',
11'.,,
"'
If),,,
,'
~,
1 11,
e-~~- "'' ~ ~~-~!_

''
"'~
..,.
..,.
I '/"
.........
,,..,,
.... .
...,
~ ......
...
......
.......
.. ......
.....' ......... ...,....
....
......
..,_
..
I;,'r,
'
""'
UJ!Jon lldrJ!
\hohtu,;h
'\
r-:...-...,_._-.w
\'rn~t,..t
,,.~
't
,.,...., ...>
w
"
" ....
"'
"
"' .....
a. c,..,.ch ~~w
... 'r,
\~W&.'C
!1. \>omt tootn:

\>.'me tooan~'k
\>.)hi CO~
...
...
~~.
~ JaB~
I '/'
'!.lio
li. . . . ~
'-'
....
1''1.
~-
U-~~
16.- ~bid.
"
..
.:-\
IJ.~~
Zl.
f!. t.ad---
19
.....
. :'-..," ,"..........,_,_
...,,'.... .."' ,. .....''.... .......,,
.... r.,, ,_.,.
...::.~. ..... ... ,
.... . .... ...
....
~
...... ........ .. ,....
'
..,.,..,...
.,.
10. . _ . , . .
II- su.~-
"
1-'r.
n.,.
:~
....
_
""
.._
..
"
:t-
:: \\'.111:01'
'
,.
GrAde'::
J7
OOAfllNG THE 8ASAC MntRN st1
39
THE BASIC DRESS

FOUNDATION
lnt,nxl\l(1j(\11 10 p.lllfiiii'IWLin.g hq:lll\ \\llh ttwdt..fl
of ttl\" l;v.sk"drm tnd.ulon Ftwdl'\") tw ,llltl ~\
dtnlit'tUAA1S of cht wnn .uwJ h ttpl\'"~<lllord bolo tlw b.l
Sk p.aucrn ~ Tht N~ drt'U hdW ,,-n f<'llnll.llldn
upon .-hkh plltctnnUlin$. Ill .-nd tkJI$11 .1r.:
twnJ. nw .,.._,."' Jms b IIUik ur col h\<" t.li~ilkl
parts. .a fror'll J.nd b.Kl ~- .1 tr\.11\t ~rwJ b.Kit. d.ut
tNt~ str,.~ht fmcn thtbV- mill tm hdJ.I<"I'IJih
~~ nw dno$' .._..,.~.. dw lnOikr... outn~
p~-rtS onlhoul ((llntCJUn~ thor hoUo" .liN"'- Jhrt
dms ~.a <otfin of w;ams c.h.u ,.rr d~t'd tO"';ard
tM ~rt-s bul~ bu\f ~"- buttcxlJ.
shouidtf bbdfs. .and ~'\.. 1btw tt..lftl\ ..~ the:
"'~ Wpn rn tbl: dr.an ol Uw b.t'~<' pantrn W1
WI,~ \frtdwd. ~ ttw fit ol tht #Jifmt'IU
.and bnt.1tt tM hol"-"" .arcou. Tbt ptrlm J:UI'Ittnt
l'l"111 fit com~- ..,,h ~ffi!C'Wnl t~ .aOO 1.n ptr
ft Nbt~a ~ harmon~ 1uth tht biiUn ~ liM'
Pattern Shapes Described

Pauem" wnfirw u~ dln,tnuon\ of thot figur~ b) ,.
"':.'1-h' lmC'\ Uhoo1o.kr. Udl: w.am\. ~ut
btiO\..- htpl arlod C1Jr\~ linn lnrt..lil'l<'\. artnhOIC'\
U.ut-al'IO\~ hIU- WC'd~ ttwl .l~Jil Jit the' p;et
ltm\ ~ .lrt du'tttt\1 to tht '~' o( tht 00.
mt>ulockr ~ .lbdomeu .and buttcxl. \\'~art
c~lkd ..., " (f-~urt 2). nw lW<: ~'t "ll) ~ d*i
C\Wt'd l&tc:r
1t'rtC1 of
~Darts?
moclr!l"s SliD-
Measurement
1bt dnft can bt ~doped trom mro~wrcmt'nU
taM:n oltht fonn .and r<rdtd on tht \tCkkl \IN
surtment Ch.art, 01 mf'.IWttmcnt' can llC' L.ILtn
from lht Stantbrd \ft-ol)ulcmcnt Ctun Of hom prr
)00.21 fll rnea~ntl.
fOf t'.&s}' ttfcrcn'. r<rd hn the SJ*t-"" pr.-..
''idcd ln the- <:furl I tht mtawrcmtnts br lh<' num
ber in p.~renthew'\ gi\ffl ln th<' ui~trucuon\.
Numben oone1pond ""'llh htt of the ~;h.Jr\~. l..<t
l).a;rti rtt~ln form or modrl fnt~\I.Utmtnt\ b"<, confin

Ins umlfk'd follnn~ .u lh<' jtl~n'i fdC<"".'l'ht <bn
~er~tUII)' rt~~i<n ful h'l('~\ ~01.1 ltflnlnatt'11t (M' nt-Jit
the apr\: of lht l"l\t, ~'lwkk bb~. tNttoc\:.$. Jtnd
~bdomtn. 'Ihe: dart ,110,0 ha.,. crt~ll\'~ \';t,lut, ~,.''all bf'
Ulu\tftllt'd bttl in lhc: t~),t, It h tilt" +J.lrt tllo1l (CJrnwn
11 tlt\J..olllmrr~t/oJN-11 I"''IIMI iutct +l tl~t~lm~nu-Ntt!,JI
s+mllt>rll.
\
figure 2
ten u11 in the irutf\KUom gJ\t the dtr1.'<1ion th.u

cacflline IHo bed"""" foHYrnple. & to ( tnc.-rn
that the hne is,dri)W'I'I fmm P">IIU B to 1)1)11\t C, In Utt
the lnmuCIICitl\. ,\ ~h.ldtd Ulll
hnt of the pattern ltluuratC\ tht putpri".C nl t.~dl
line d rawn on the drft.
ii(I)()Unt lndk.it00 1)~.
Sug~:mon\
for crxrccllng fuUnJC prohfcm~ ft>l

the lnilrucUon\ ftr dr.:Jftlnsr tht hod!Cf'. thf'
d.u1, <~nd the ~leeo.e To complth: the p.&Utrf'l\ ,..1
PJKt54fi ,md67
'
""
1~
..,
...............
_....,,..., ..
""'""'~
"'.
\0
'....\
'
'
Manual ond Compute

Droft1nQ
fk"h tn.\1'\u.ll :tn,1 .'\'lmf'\ltd' ~r.li\if\!.: Ol'l:thod

.lfi' \,11\Ct~.'t t..\r .!,""<'''rrll'\.;,thc 1:\bl.._. p.~uxm -.ct
~~'~~"'~ 1ns "'lh mrth.~ ~l\'("'> th\C r\.lnrutw' \"'
.,,'f'<' '"~'t~'~W~~ tn ~~~cJ.hl\~ t"th::n\.- 111~

'''"'l"''t\'t I'IR'1.h~ ~' IUu., tfJ.t\'\1 '4'1 th\': ()\ I
"""'!\:-"'(I). '" l"'"kk4
-I
FRONT BODICE DRAFT
F\Quoe 3
Cc
h (\II ,uwiii'K'
ow Ulk h
,\lfr
... f\l!lt!lll " ' "
('11'0
--,,.10
(Om'('lcd. T.lb f),},Kt .f~ ((If
lot . . .~ SMIJ
1~1
to Q = \\'alst arc: ( 19), Jihl\ 1/ 4 " ease, l eu

Bto f _ .
Orut kp: Draw a llnr from K to f .and me.asurt. Onw
d.ln lq hom K th~h Q tq~lto K to F.
1~
t.bdR.
rulllngtb (6), phd 1/tf'-
Ouw I~ lon .md IJbd.
shonlder, l nt 1/8" ll.fl
Ot1tt pof11t: Cc-nt4.'f J point .S/8 Inch from bust point.

Rtdrnw <b.rt Legs fn"'m thl~ point to f nd It
'
Omw slight CUC"\'d lhlt'\ hom 8 to f and R coP.
Square .1 line l.lo...,n from C hnt.

IJ to I)
--.
Compkri11g "'aisr m(ll}.lllc<Jllt"tll
~ ""
,\CTOU
N toP Mark I IJ.IIrKh out hom N.

Pi:rsooal flt, sec: formull.\ orr adju5t aftu
th~ draft is c nnJ,It t c:. 1'itb JJage 44.
0 to P Sid(" !("ngth line 1\dlr..'tted toP, nd tnds
wh~n equ al tO N to 0. nu,w lln1: fr(Hn I' tO f.
Flgvre 4
TIN' ~'"'~"' dro~(l Is b;Jstd on a miSt) cllt~~

fomt "'''" .-hnut .t IO.ineh dlffr-n !'Itt"'" lht
,,.,.,,,and Nt ill rup) lOt all uzcs. for J pertoOnJI ftt,
iulmM'I eM ....il4 from busL if mort or tr~' th.ln
10 '"'"" ttoi11Kt' 1 .f lncf'IJ. folktW tht' lonnul.a
A to C
~ A
I(>
f'flk'f!!>I"I"'J'I~d.hlln
fqlftf cho)WI'I nw.awrMiftl.ts in thor ~ ~

~~~lOW F<Of 1noctm wUh ~nrmf'ln.. shoullk'l
"'t"''
N~w .ltrraJ,, plu\ 1/ 8"' (8) _

Draw line from Ito 1nttn:t f. Unt.
t"c ntc:r fn.~n tiC'rtbotll (5) _ _

....
'
M~lk and WlllJ~ OUI
0 t o(; llu\t arc ( 11), pins 1/ 4 .. _

Squ,UtOI.il ftram 8. .lnd then SCJIWtup II' from f '
-2
c~'IA
1\~t
Gt\
c Cup~ hr s
C'urt Formula: TCJt Fit
,.r
n cur: ,.r
ot-u~,
B toG ~houlckrJ.Iope: (7), plus 1/ t _

Gt .~ r1
G to II 8UJt
\t~rl.1>n tho
f'or ~lhOC'lll lrU~
:.t'lt p.&o..: H
ContlnUC' .Uh lr...~"tilon '-)..1':
d~lb (9) _ _.
1 rw
. J
(, II) I '.lhe)ulder lc:ngth (13) - -

\qu~r;: duwn fmm I tQ !ntcrSt with D hnt.
J to K l'llnt .span, ph1.s J/ 'l#flOJ

Squ:.rr frmn J .at C~'lllt-r from tht<M.I~ H 10 f
I) to I O"cIIS.If of 0 to J.
\htJ. drn..n hnm n.

1
to \f Artou tb(':lt, plu~ 1/4 fl~)

~u..r~ A, Mil ,. JP ;~~M dr 'l'l'n ftotn M
fJ to r
\q H 0
f);u1 plam~nl
I J/11>
ft
.\ :_ ,
..
(20J
I
-=----''
Jilt f
Rguoe!>
1
1mffdlr. Or,m ,unthtll~ ,lU\'\' Y>llh rok t\' '"""'"
1
G, M. ;utd ~-U.H\" lhw flu th'l h,_k"'"- "-"''~ 1' '1
"<JU<In? lhl\~.
Nnl/.tlltt': J)f,l\\' t:tu\\' lr~l1U I h' ll J\,1"11\1' "'"'"' 11\,
.Ut)tl.;- lim. II\' HW
OOAFTII'IG IHE BASe PA11RN SEt

42
ChOf)t.,J
IQMe8
BACK BODICE DRAFT
_..
r-ouro
A co ll rulll~ng:cr (6) -
A co C J\ CT'O.J.' .lhould('r j l 4)
Squ.u~ J in(hc-\ \Jowon from C.
8 to D Centc:r lwC'k lc:ds;th (.S)
\IMl ~ "!u.llt' out .f l fkf'l(";.
B t oE B.ac t. a rc- ( 18), plui 1 -4 .,..h
~upt,...m L
~Jr::==~---i, C
tn M ScfUolf\' down t/l61nch.

M to N Side le n g t h ( II)
L 1" 0 '\qu.u~ Ui) ftotn I. t ltKh "''~ ttun \II()
N.
Ot:.w d~u h.~' hoen Q, 1/llln.c;h ~" 1 ;md K

Or;aw SIIS.htly Cut\l.'d linn hom K 11.1 '\1 and ftom
8 tO I.
f
A
-
A
~r-..__ c
r c-
o
S
"'
o.
"
"---J
.\'----:+-
\< - d - '
LK
Figu-oQ
F to r Onc--~lf ot F !O H. \U:!,._
P to Q. - Om\ :s 3-l!lcb ~ m ~f)( 4:f't('biX'I of
point() undiat\ tA tJrokn :"k'l.
rtoR =l ~lnch.\tarir...
l)r.tv. dan 1~ trom Q. l ' 1nch f\1-l:t R md ('(ll'l
rK'I."'t to F
\lad.. 1 ,'" in..:h lrom r. ():~"' btr d;.l.rt ~!rom
Q. <-qt~l t<:\ .tan kg Q-R :and \XW!\~, t,, H.
D to S fme-t..~nh (\1 0 toR- \b~L
'
FIQUtO 7
A to I~ Un ck n eck ( 12), flhl$ 1/ 8 Inch
'
U to G Sh tmld tr siO jll! ( 1), fJiu.s 1/ 8 Inch

H
Figvro 10
to 1' = Aero..~ ~L:.,. plns l ~ ineh (t6)
f h~ II Shoulder l cnglh ( 13), plus L/2

In ch
..
I hlt
m:ay p.1\\ ( ,,
'<11.1111e down from f to n liM.
II 1ft I Uarl jlhiC;t:m C:I'II (20) -

It 1ft) Wr.ht lrC: ( 19), fllu.s d l1rt l ntOtkC of
I J /2" n nd J/4" (ta\'t ). (Junlor/pt~tlte .s.i:ccs: add
I lt~dt cL11t lnt.ll:, ph '" 1/l lnch ea~t-.)
111~ I(
f)urllnl<tkt:
\f..uk ('flirt nd IJIX'II
318''
f'>)UI\> 10
.~mllh"' l)r.t1\ .tnnh()l~ W\th tho: f~l\:h \'UI\C
h'\Jdlll\jl. H T. ,,n..t ' ~ (V.I'\'(' s~lld t('ltKh
"!IJ,\f'(
nc1 I)J,\1\
"'""'"
"'
'
hOI:
\ (\-.. ''\ L''"'-''
h~ ,,
.t
l :- n..n :ans~c bl'k cn:om the ('1,.1(
ex,t..hr"' ltt.m F. .m~l~ hl'k' .m..t ~.,..Wi.t~
Portern Correction for

Asymmetrical Models
fiQvte 1
Increasing and Decreasing Busr

.._.... I dtJft~ with" B cup. Tht ,...cMn c.ln
The ......,.,,'1' $
,. ~ A C 0 ;Ulll OU flK
.._. d U:Sif'd (Qf bu\1 <Up un - '
Mod~l (I) With hi~.h/1-ow ShOU\ol.kiS .
Mod4!l Cl)) wllh hllth/14)w hiJ)S .
fi - 11 n~u'\s,ln. ,MJju~t ~Jin;

~' 1
ptr.sQI'IJI fit. Tf11 I ,u...,,
J Fi~m _. o~nd .S.
CotrlionJ.: Untold th~ p;lth,-rn: bodkt (() or

jkht (d). $1.)$h from low \ldt to hiXh \Ide-. 0\-tfl<lp
rttordrd amount, mend, bknd, ~tnd teit

Figurlo
"""'
"2
CC>.OOO<>
fl9.,totb
SpNd .n bent pomt.., loll,_,
CCup J ~ 1ftll:b.
D Cup J .f 1ncfl.
00 Cup I UKfl_
CMctr buA" poent
~dan k;t .o\ to) bt ~wJ 10 I
"~>-' 3
'l't04t
AO<>
0\nbpbwtpotntl'SIDC"h
Ctn:a buSt polliL
t
.
AOCII
"""' .,..,..,.,
one"""" ~~--------~---------1
"""-' -
nrt-
FITTING THE BODICE

Cut .tnd S('l\ the bodiC~t. l"rru \\11hout m.;~m. l'l~e
oo (()rm ()J modtftn ln.ti~"U'.Ihr ft .\1\\r) mc.Hurc
imperfect Alignment
flgutG:$ 2o. b
COO''td am~ .tnd .adtwt the p1ttrrm
Aoul 5
Figure 4
mu~lln from wlli(t to l)uSI, and spread to gh'<' bust
tcosr1tt:U: l'in
ell~\ Jt
bl,a)t to Jcro ,ll 1hClukh:r nd
ll,t'''''"w SlrC'15
fol<i~ r:w:tl:uln~; from b ust. Slash
Front or back bodkt O\'Nial)' ctnt~r lim of tht
(onn.
lo"'n cbn point. oc cbeel: ~ IDUS\Ut'mcnts ~nd .ld!u\t ~ ""'"llS.t. lf :tqWCO.

Cottt'Ct tht p.lttem ~-
tti:mmi.nt the'
u-
ftogvro 2o
f.gu<e$
3<>b
from ()T bld S\\'lng"$ ~~nom tbcttt'H!'t bnt.

Po).'ttblt sotuuorw Add m~in :at ~kk1 tip.
ch..-cl.. ,,;aliiUn<' m-cM:u:ftnmts :~nd .J:tw.t \.Ilk

''a!st, if reqtnll.'d
Corft<t tilt' ~tttm by ~c:hn_;t the .Jo.!Jmt<d
:nnotmt J.t ~hoo)dl>'r 11p to~ at nl...
.....
IJr'.;)i\
Unpll'l and 1o1 1

1'1"\V~n Of ShOIJidOf 14)
ona ~aYro'OI'
rn.ssaii\O'~o
!..-
""""""""\
c;:.r~
t>.l IX""'
.... '
~tusttd
amount :at -.houldtr np to wo Jit nKl..
\Uffi<ierlt room.
~o.--alst.
rout.blot dutJom: L&tt tm.~:~bn ;,.t Shoukitr t~r.
I.
Shorten dirt I~..\ to t:nx "-llh B.
46
ChQptM3
Gop Solow Front MldArmt\Ok)

(GajliiiJI. h '"lilol'\1 hy luth:ti,UJC.1.'\I oJlle ~o~.,um)
~ec7o l).c
flit~ ilt J"lfC'Ihh:m h \ h nwn lnll~;c.m J~o
1-.n the c.\cc.''\ ,Jikl\\hls:, 1/~h\c.h \'.l'(" t iiii,\U..- 7bl
'-1011\h tht J\.;llt\'rn ftom mk14Unhult h bu~

llOtnt Jlnd fhn dn l)l"nl to '-"~ llllfnl ()\-~'''"P
tht- J\,llllt'm t-'qiU.I tn th~, dUW""" !Inn._'\& .111 ""'
armhok. 1J~~ to "''u' t1 *KUf(' 7tl.
~008ob
II tht Jlrml~lok h tuo U(ht .n tl~ hom .l.nnl.....,_
lt-~t,IIC S.ll!t, \l.hh .Uld \4NC'~ llo4 h\\'il lhl!IIC' tioht
rtQUro 7c
"""' .
FITTING THE ARMHOLE
fROtH
.\ "cU-blbtnd ~''" <kp:ndi on th~ .IHm.lh'

sh.of the .armhak .and elk ctlffnl pl....:.:rn"nt ot
1~ 'lhouldcr .and "dl k:".am~ oC th<' trlmr
-\ v;dl\h.afl'l'd .armhole ltU tmoothl) c~\tr thr:
shooldd :.nd Jalb .l\\.a~ ~'H'nl) frt~m the: 10\H'I fMtl
nt thr ;Hmhcl~t pl,ttt' .. nd the \ldt \('.Un h ,tlll(l!<'tl
With tl'llt oltht" lunn. lht:tt ~~ nn .lpt)l.at.l!"<' ttf
Slrt."is lmn Of gJpptnJ! Stc FtJ:un: _'ia
If lh'-" Jrmhnk olth.._.. bodiH h ltkrnllkrl wi th
one of Jht- l''f.iltnpln, (()flow th~ \t.JjtKtUNJ ,1djtnl
mcnt .md m.i.l: Co'lrfn_UOfl\ tn lht: l'lltem.
Gop Above Front Mtcf.Armhoto;

F'Qu<es6a b
The fit prOblem h 'lbo\o. n Itt f 1gurr 'i.fi(p!JI'(' 6b
Rtlr.l\c" Jh(M.Ildrt 'IC'"m .rnd unonth r'f.f<'n o\w
the ihouklot'r hn o~nd
tn.HI.
.trljmlrd tllnulckf
(G31)111~ h Uttwd h)' llllb,JI.tmc."~:l 'HI\' ''-'\ill\,)
(hR'tln lib1
Gop .r.bove Bock M>doAtmhole

f~MOO.r.-
lht hi ptobi"Tl'i 1 ~'"' n In 1 gt;rrt 1,.
k!lot.a:\t': 'hnuldtr km lnd """'-''" t'Ut'\~ tM-r

tlw \huukirr f'ln rid lfl4rk J!tnCit'cJ dMJUiolol r
fl lll;UII' f.tlt
Gop Below Bock MldArmholo:
()\
flgoJIW1o. b
nw fltlwltt~.tn h '"'~c.,rttn 1 lf.);m, l.-
Relt'.IW
w.tltl .u11l ""~"""'l'
J\'' '"'
Mat\.. ,,tit' \\''ul.\mll"-''llh'lh.H \ ~ tuc.ht''<' ,.._
lndmk~l. \I .at\.. \\l\\thrw
'1\ll
''''" '''"'
\I\'.1\\IU' thl th\l.llh"\' h..t\W\U lh1 .lt..,tk~ l'olll
hl.loll ,uhh 1111'" h"'llll\lt\llrl hJ l''lt\"111 \\lofT\' tin,

(ll)t\lft' 'lh.
49
48
c;hllPIOI' 3
SKIRT DRAFT
1br b.uk .J.Irt tc'l\i!ldllkll' l~.n \("1.'\t.l.l u\M: .n:.
Fa)St' t<lf lt\,lAif"lb l iloA 10 rl\"ollt' tk_-1.1-=l\
j\.11
tl'I'A'\o <'(lfl1llrle'\l ~ 11tl dM' lllll.IIO" .a , dw~ ,., .I

'"'" 10 ~nJIIc1r
ltl.a' .a "1.;tr.lllt' tu'k
\lin two ,wU<..,~ "'tiM' ll.kf. Utt .lr<' l:h\"1\
In 1\lll' I . ttK-b.lotl. bil1' .lit' c>l ,~ull tn-.l.o
.a"'*'
,u)d 1(-n(lh. 1\'J'C' 2
Ju t~'Od,llfi\CII lltl(ql.l.ll u
ul.lt.and~h
J!ft'O I., (M.IIWR"Mtffh ltoont tbr \1-.kt
\fo:-~'
~
..,. m tho;~
1-"''"'"w
frntlftiJt
fit l ,...
Petsonol Dart Intake Chart
lltltf ,.,,....,.
Outf 1oJ .... fl. I lltt ,.,wlvt lfl ..foftl.-J .AMI
-.au ,..., tt. , .., JI.Jrt 3Mftttl Hw "'.Jill 11 1

,_., tlw . . ~ ,,,_(inJ ,,.. ~
,._, tltt /lfll'r,lml. . , _ . , ,.,..,._ I
/l~b
I r111l I ti.HI
(_- itfl
"*
Net ol.Jtt 1-1.
Ill" lnt..kt. II.Kl. I dart- l/<1- lntakt>.
h Iilii""""' f
ffcIU 1 ~'-'''
.ul(l,clllll n~:hl"o
fm tl..lrt
['tv \1111!, Ill ; lf\1' d.!I I l lll!llt'
f)ff/I"Wiil(
I 12 illllilt' ~~..; I do~.rt - t lnt.;,ke.
(t llflil ,, l)f/f('to'?lil I'
I ttlfll I Wrt - 112 IIH.Ik('. ltk ~ 1 dart1.-S/8' mtJ~l.t:.
ll'kh l>rflc"'*~
- 1/r
,,.,ill
t o M lr<mt "-ilb t lol.rc (19), plu\11" inch

lt:.l1C'), ~nd oWd ll.n<b lo1 <bn 1ntal;c
lnt~c
'~"I {
l'n'"".Jt til. &~W" J.Jrt mWV
,,,u,
''""'.AIM ell; ;--
It t v ' lhrl pla<-~tment ( 20} _
n t o I. U11r1 11111 \.""<m~ nt (20)

M.a rl.. fh,t doan 1 lmh lrnm 1
\i~rl. !11~ d.lrt S-18 nch hom 'i;
Mar._ din 'P"tt 1 1 -!.

foe ,.wnd dirt.
Mnrk d.ut \1};\C,(' I 1/" 1m. h ..., .mel m.ul. llnth fo

~'t'Oild d ;an
II'IC:ht\
.and m.ul 5-, ~ 1ncb
~Jt: up and ~n from \i.
Sqwrt' "'I' .md dt'"'n fmm 1...
I >fft I IJ,o tl
lcUil.t lbt k.: 1 d.art,_l/4 1111.1U.
x. f1f Q.,,.lt IJilfrtnt&t'
1nlfll td.uh- \ftJ" lnt.l.k(' I)KL; 2 <brt-7Af" lmal.;(o.
G4"---~'--'-----------~r-,--t-'----~..=---=
..:_----~-
lfJ..,..h IJI/4Mff.lwtt \L.IrH- IIr lut...t.'-' ft.kL; l ""rts--1 " i.nt;l~.
llf:r
~~
'
,,...... ,,,,,.,(flo...
I 17'
twnt ! d.tru- Sttr hu. S;wl." Z ~rt1-l 118" intru.

u~'"-"
,.., -..kh Allin"'":\' II 1111olt ,...1 ...,,l

Joltt
m ,...,., Wltfl~ '"'~ r t.l"'\l""i m 161' t, thtt
(ell\!."),
( 11hmlll I
U to I< Uack Wllht ll ~ ( I?), plu\ 114 !nth
''""'11
,,.,rr"*.-
htont. l ~rn.- \11J int.)M'. ILidr.; 2 d;uu-1 1/-4'"' 1111~.
rf. .., I"'.Uto.h IH//o'MIIII'

'"'"' !. tJ.rt-s.t~ lnt.1M'. 8.lcL Z c,bru-1 lltr i!11.)b!'.
r.\lldw snr "'.aw .at cokh qU.~r li."f mbt. foe' :J 'bru
.u tlw b.k.._ ,l.ut. rJevkk 2 l/4~ huo thlrtb.)
f~----------~----~~------------~1'
Skirt Ftonf ond Bock
P:J.AI
H
fl<p-0 I
A. to IJ S~lrt l~r gtl (,1\ ~t lit't'd).
A t<t C: Ct.nlf:r frmat hl jJ dept h C2o1i)
A to I) n.uc k h iJ art (21), phn 1/2 tnch
(easel_
Squan'dOtlt from A, C.nc.1 ISn Jtl.ll lu A to 1>.
f:!
l~k l ~llt:
fiQui~
lc1 (: (~n i C'r lt111:k l1l 1~ d CJIIII (2o1i)
llop
,r
...
'
MCK
I tu ll J,lb l'll ,mil l
.and Nd. -~"'lc'
t h~ \tulk~.,.,. tond 01 ~~ "lo-ut\~ Nk=f hom l o P

(~.. l;.hnd lnlM H to Q ltt'lr.l
Or.w )-ldi.' w.;un w rw '' ~hl~ 1hc iklft H ll\ 'i.' rult'
Shift t ht' 1'\1\t until lht' dc plll ntt'.&\IHt'mcnt
to ud l($ t he ftc>nt ;\rltl h.wt.. I(Uhldhw,, 1.1bcl f'
:md q.
l)rO'IW lilllkl
\\'.1.1.\tUnc: flr~"' trof\t
flguo& 3
C to 1 Side! hla tlCJ'Ilh (26)
0
G
. _,_
r ro~).lmu }: 11x..~t1on .
A I (Ill Pmnt hiJI Ill"(: (2-.i), plu \ l/21t1<l1
( ('.,1\l')
StJU.II\"d OU1 from A,( _, M\d H t'CJU.illl A
tu I I.
l>f.!W urlltl hum lint J tu It I bM 1 ,,noll
,.,...
lru<' tJ;ut ll"):\ by a dding 10th<' ~hort<r legs
~nd
hiC'Ud II) the. (lll\'t' of lht w,listlln~.
lront dart\: RC'JIC"t tlw pro-ss with the dartleg.s

l 1/2 lnd'l~ loug.
31/7
'"""'
I he 1.1..1u li111m wtth Hw- C1:t1t~:r linn of thfo form
....
:.nd h.:mx\ \tf,llstht from the hip to thor htmluw

indl<:,ltlllf.t th:u the- tUU IIIK: ((,M\I(..I'Jin) h p;~rod~
lcl \\ith tht floo, lfixua Ill). 1ht \kut ~ltc:h<:'d to

the: I'ICMiic~ I\ \hown In fistur( lb.
lmbolonoed Sklr.
f91es2o. o
Skirt Bock (for Sus and Separates)

Trace- th~ ~kir11>Jd;. ~lad. th- corr~r of the dJrtltK
cfOS($! coetnttrb.kl. Do not Include tht' dartlnl:ll.t
Foov<'
I 1/2'
-,_....-
3 112
A1ljtut ~Jtt /lrwt.t.
s l/2 ~
"$/:i
., II
'""'"
fromctmerback tomarktbr1 pt)lnh when dr..~
lng dan lt'p to Jeajtlh oh illu'\ttatcd. rrut d-111

ltg) br adding to chr mt>ntr lti;
Bltr\d to the cur\t of tht "'"litllnt-.
Complete tht p.lltem .1100 cut In f<~brk (rrt, tt\t
lit gwen on pages Sl .1nd S2.
Jlenonal fr1 .tju~ U\lnjt )Our m~~oum...nl\.
21)
rtobiC"m Tbt
~ en.~
tbr
~'t'Nt't
liDr
t f1gu ft" 2.J1 . ..\ ~ t~~."lll ilppc.; ~~ dlC tmk'f 01 tbt-
018
fFigure S).
M:uk f~r$1 dart lntal;e 1 1/2 mchc-s. Mar~ d~rt

sp.t<e I 1/4 ir'l{he.-1. Mllll K'<Md cUrt IRt.lkt 1/1
lndL Mark cUn centeN. Uw thl~ mc~\urtmtnl
fo.-o
Rou< 2o
8ACK
Tl
'\kut tAJ1;UfC ~~-
I
f_-...\
ro-$lhk a\UIS lmo.tfldro1 4411! irlt.....c- or ..$&-
wli\l 10\'(lf'h'l.""th
m:a.rW. Qc:d. -~~llli:.UWI'I Of
the HBl (llrl tht katnund the" ..w-t Jr.!:

)u~t"\tcd ~11<'1;1: b.s~ the~ ...., ..~ llftliJ tht
\kltt ah~ ~1th tht nlt'f Jm..-: 01 tht fan:&. I '~No\
1)1. 1\t'C\!\.~1" ~~ rck~~ :he SJ..i.: '6fn\. 1\'\ t~'l
the pml_,)(-m_ Jn~""N;l...,. <1.1tt 1n1.al:t 11)(1.'\"'\.....~
52
PREPARING PATIERNS
FOR TEST FIT
Chal)!er3
~:!fr,~wlnlfSJ.W.tY ftl>ltl ti!IC'\~U\"1' (t'~M,ul!.'
t.l) .
The $tlrt W111 ptt'U "!.lht tht' lh~Jlh ,uMI IUO'o''t '
up tiW tlifl>llc~ "'hl!fl ''"' wl'o~c<fl' ,.,,,u..ht.tt (tlgIIK' Jblf'rOblcll'l:
f.\(\'UI\~ dilt1 frll.t~ Of IIW ~1\1~ lv.Lbl

htrorrti'' f!Ufltd Chii\.L It~ kk:.IUilU ol ~
IIBL on 1~ l(wm ilttd thot dto~ft .
~t<d 11)1ut,)n: ~ tilt ~okk w.l.l~l unUJ
tM )btt .diSf1J ultl thor ""'n tC'f luw- tJ( Uw fowtn
1: m.n bt ncttJ"-lt) It> edt.~~ tht )kk w.,al'l~ to
~ tht ~ llrt"fWW tht d.alt .,11.1-l.c'. If
--
~lb
FlgljtO l
~'';e ildot 1(;-;a,nu t~thec, matehina; s\<1~ at linn.
l e 11"-' waht. Mjau-. side sea1n, If nece!SS;uy.
Matching Joining Seams
n
-
l'Lil~ pat~c:rn"J with da.ru ontoJ} olt);'l\tt:rm \\'lthout

d.lrts at tOin lng 1t01111't., ~.um lh.n do fkM ll\J.t h
(C:hCC:... lt\C';ISIJtell~'lll dloltt) MC Mil\1\t((i \.~U..Ily"at
ta<h tud and ble:ndc<l with
'14:.lmUn~-
Trueing ffOr\1Ond Bock 80d6C ot Shieh Une

~I
~ b.Kt JNUan on top of front \Utrn
(st~ art'~). tOI.Ic;:hlr~.& thoukkf/1\td.. <Ofntrt

ar.d nwrk <br\ lo(aUon on front ~houkl
_.,
I T
Trueing Ftont and 8ock Skirt

f~Q~~e4
rlKt tQd.: and from !sbldotd a:t-31 5lJm t~lbcl

it sidts. Matdl HBL lin(o).. Slan should m;a.1c:h >
~idt waist and htm from the KBL U 1t doo not.
tcdlk musUn o.- r~.-cht<:L squa~ )m(: on drsn. h
coc-r~.~d1ust p.:anems 3ba\"t'andbdo"' 1htHBl
to tn.t'.
SElF-EVALUATION TRUE AND FAlSE TEST

Qrclt uutor faht. The .~-ns,,rc, art on ~gc 80$.
I. ()arlSCOIUroltheltolthe
Sl~<~pn.
I '2 maJM darts on the total
I J,
"r
1 ~. It b U()l nC"CS~MY tO ttCht<'k

me.nu~ments till~ll (rom t he
I f
15. Thl'lllm hnll.' llteasurcmcnt c.-n

c,ku;rmlu<' the hie<!ps.
16. n.e tutniiOI\' nu~.t~ou rtnH::ru CAn
dltcr~lllnt che c.1p heigh!.
I 7. M(; ~ur.:mcnli takl!tl ftom a ch i'lft
TF
bulc hndlct t.c1 s.ktrt
WsK g.IJI'IItlll.
2. Oact lqs c:onfint unnoo.ted t'\ctn.

J. 1\ d.:a rt ts thr ~mt a.\ adding
(ullnc.
4. fiOdk.'(> don~o do not t.u.lllltt from
tiK' b l&}t '
S. G;apph)8 r~:sulU ffc>m mhl>l<ed t'll<t~\.
6. A St.l1~1.!111d mlny form h~\ ;a, CixiU wp
1. l h t< fll}l. il piU.-11(11 l'lilh tht W.11U,
8. Tht t:elltCt bad: w.1ht h IQ\\'I'!f ch;an the
~fl l tr froflt w.:abt.
?. llack darti ~H: al\'\;a,~~ 11~ ~me ltn"ch.
10. Some ~.ue- h in U14. frQfll armh~l:'.
I I. GaPJ!ing h trfmmtd a11he ~fnl.
12. Oart.s take up exc..~s (;lU\ofd by <cmv~:x
lh~rt a~
II
T I
T ,,
r 1
'II
"
"
IF
JJ
Tf
fOtm
FIQutO 2
or muc.h:l.
TF
Move b~ck I)<IUCrtlliO that Qlh t f dall kg to~a{hc<o

mark on f ro1ll shoul tll.'t and JN U('tn's ~XIge,
m MChlug to $h<:nal<'er Up. Adju~t shoulder, If
TF
lli!C<'SS-llf)'
Tf
JlUilt iUlh:t ll pe l(i.'Clt (tl,
18. I he ihOulder .t1KI s-Ide seam of 11\t (cum
1' 1:
19, II;: (;tn h:t C.1J, notdl \l:lf'$ ill che
TF
20. lht lrunt ~1<.-cv~ h 1<k nUf!OO by

two no-lchc'
Tf
fi!U .Holnt\.'t'~ 0 IX'I fec:t SIIXW <llign m<:nt .
K"''" un~.
ftgOf02
$4
THE BASIC SLEEVE
Ch<JPI..-3
ftgYro
lruelog Bodice wilh Sk.,-1
Ftgor5
i; 1(00dkt10n'llh:t i:>.Ki. (J/il.ltl
=~~~~~m:tdtlrl$
.w,.,sr .un. II n.Mkd
\Att(h/uw 10 d.rll
I~
\hlft J)JtL: J>.1114'HI .11o ng w:.btllne. m~td~l.ns:

m,llt.. c~f t.Jo(ll' l' lc h tM ht:t dati ieg o n iLl rt. Sk1~
'd"'' ihoutd rn .:n~-1~ If thc-)' do rt04, rtd.et'k
"JlUiin(' m(',ht n:tnent.s ;md ndlu~t.
Tht basic ilct'\'1! b .& nlOU!\1{'1.1 \l('('v~ \IIKhf'll t o th~

b<l1k hOc.lk~ illrmhM....
'' sl~ b to fl t .m .um, V~ hich hrJr~oi tlw n\OU
tf(i(i~nl an~ m~IOih. J'liUh til the htun.lln .&n.ltrlnlY
'Tht- .um hm<:ti01l 1 l>flm."lrlly In ll forw;ard motion
but b c-;tJ~olbk- of 11\0\ in~ in ('H'f)' d lrt\,Unn. hh
Oc~ltHIIt) 1honuld bt r;omkkml whe-n t1!'1thlX the- ht
nd comfOft o( til< 'I.I('(W.
The- cmter KtJin o J w.;-11-flltr.."d
~ft\C
'hwld
aJi&n with or ~ t.U~htl~ fm-w.~~td o( lht' 1'-'lk ~lm uf

modth h.IV1ng ~ pttft i-!.lr'l. TM ;arm1of n\Odt4"i
\'1 th ~IO<Iped t.houkkn ttnd to h.an3100 f.-r f".t.rd
from tht~SC'"'" ll~"m\ofl'l'IOdc-bwtth ~n Uj>
ri81U \t_.fk1:' tend to tun~ too 1~1 to ttw l*'k\. from
Ult'~ick~.lm,. In c-utM-r ~>~k. nw t.l\~ 1~1d.-li~n
w1th the fiO\U\011 of the teLP.c.l 0\lm \\'tl hout r~ud
tr.ulig.mM'nl with ttK- >.k WJ~m
liI~
Sleeve Te rminology
Communk.ltul~ In tt'f m \ ' '"' om: bmll1.1r wh h
tho~ Ill dc-\lg.n o~od JHodUlttH-n \\Ill http tO .J\''C)Id

miwndt-nlandlng " httl prohk-m Mll\'lfljt.
--log
Gralnlln~. ~tf:.I~>IH
gr.lln of tht s.ltt\ '(', whiCh tS th('
('('O ICI Of the ~k'('\'C h Ofll
~c.,
top C\f C.IIJ'I IO WI~" k-\~1.
Figu<& 7
$tlift td; p.~ttcnt m.llt<:hii1Ji: o th\r d.11t t I<"K to
Slcevt C'liJ>. Cur~l"d to p of the ' k't'W abow bic-ep \

Unr.
da rt ki of 11.:in. Brnkn lln.r h ~iut d.ut un~kr

n~ t h. \tarJ. louunn v4 dl.n I~ on hodlct'.
Rept;rt ftJr front bodice .uld t\in rnt)C d lultt.Ucd).
ir
lllcCJU IC\'C'I, Widt~t JWIIt o f the \k"t'\ '(' d l\ 'id lng C'.lp
hom 1he lo wer "'~''t.
w~
$ ttp$
~I
Cnt> hd~ht. l)l ~t.mn frc:u n hi<:CP\ to th1. top .11 tlw
gralnlirlc.
moow level. 1~\\t:cd ,,, the nniC:\tl:ulon J}(llnt of tlu
:urn, ~n d th< loc.,Jiorl o f the dho w tl.ut.

'Wri.st h:,cl. Entry for
til\'
o11, .:.t~c. R.lnglu~ h tutl I 1/4 lm:h\'' h) l

notCh\''
(\It')
h1md.
Nr..llc hcs. A rulll h ,11 t lil.' l4tp uf thl ,JCl'\'(' \';'Ill dlvldt'
call C;,\St' h~!IWl"CI~ fmnt ,111d h:Kl: $ICl~ .md .umhollQ( t h <' txxltc.:~- Ont: rundlld~rltlfl\'\ til(' front ''~"''C.
;tml two nou:hl'\ klcn!lf)' tlw ba~k IN'\t, l .h~ I~
glm ,uld .:mh ,11 tlw hmu ,md h.rtk notdl~'
Cdcl~>t:ndlng on
I l irldh'\
hl'l\w.;-11 frrlnt ,md h~~~
~eve'
$-:.EEV:
53..-.3
0
:w.~
""'--
"""
I
I
I
Armhole Meosurement
FOJ,. 2
fOJI' I o. 0. oncf c
fc) IIK',I \Utt' thl." fr~lfll .1rkl b.)C"i. ,umho l('t.,. uw .1 thi n,
o,.dbf(' l'l.luit rult tw ld upf iJ;ht when nK':t-wrillg.
(llol noc ut(' .11 ~t.ca~'Ul' llf)l:.)
ftc,:tlfd rntJIU~t<'n\etUS Ins~~"'' on tht from ;arw,l
tt.M:t. ;mn hc'lk\ ot thf' p~utrn fof f\ltur(' rfl'tr~l'.
MN\UK' lront bod..;(' arm i\Clolot. RCM'd _ .
"t;tWt(" b.k.i. bodkt armi\Ott. tl<td _ .

\dd \ft.uur~ntnl1 t. .ht'r R''< _ .
0.\kk In h.Ji f . ;tdd lf.f lnc:h. Rcwd _ .
<nJ thb llW'IJ'Wtt'tiWf\tS f01 )'<lUI modd SlZt' In

the' ~if' ptcm..kd 00 tM Skon't' Mtssu~t
Ctun tulont 'AnnhOk ~.surtment.

In lht Uton>c dtolfl. II i\ the A 10 [ lnstru('ttot\i-
flOur& IC
f-.Ovtei D
......,
SLEEVE DRAFT
DRAfTING 1HE BASIC PATIERN SET
Omw .11 ll n~ 0 11 I~IM/1. M.-rt and lah~;l

A t o u s~~ lcn 3th
A t o C C.1p h<"l&ht ~ tuk
C ht 0 Onth:.tlf yt C: to 8
0 t o 0 ' J/-4 Inch M<lf'-
'
"
,\.c. o. a
bktop\ ln bet~" l.Jbrl l- l)u" hnt hom A

to
t:
dhklt h\IU fouflh\ \t;!!l\. <ln4 llbtl, .,
'""""
C t oF Ctof
Orw line- from A to f Dhldt tn ta

mJ~rl. ""d l.lbd. ~ \JW"'n.
8 t o 0 2 lnchn. tn-) u..n C lO I
f01.111h~.
Dto i' B IOO

Dr"w line- ftoll\ 0 ll) t ;!lnd fmm 1 to I
FlguiO 3
Square llnt1 from ttw fulltl\\llnjt:
G-I n .J/ij ln'-h
11- oul IN lmll
t{- oul S/K lnt:"ll
5i$. '\.
1-oul .i/-4 tnc_h

11<
M -ou1 l / H'i lmh
N-ln 112 h"ldl
31$
'G
'"
S."'C\
Cap hng.ht
Armhole mt"l~Ufl'1TII!nt
Bice~
,.
1'/j'
J'l l
1'4 '
\'~
zz
'"
221/,
5'1,
IZ
2211,
I r,
"'
16
22 1/,
6 1/,
t.'J,
IZ'J,
"
11'1
11
I 11/ ,
IS 1/
'
%1'/J
l l .,.
SJ
12'1,
18
2l
'
SLEEVE MEASUREM ENTCHART
'
,....,
Sla'\'(' lorngl h
...
Arn1ho le m e:uure na nt
oJ 1'\l.(C' ;~ rukt
~~ A .1nd phVl uruU \ht n'IC',Um .,;nwnt toucht-s
~I line_ \li~t'C t o l. On<-h<llfof~1J'I-Rl<',mut-n~n- \l;!!r"'-Com~ r~ pl.lntent nf th<' t~o nurb. ncl m.tfk
urae.
57
'
I
""''
ORAFTtfG THE 8A.S*::. PAITERN SET
l'filliN <._<rpliflo
Uk" tht rrtnct C'\lf\.- w '>h;)flrt lh ,.~JIlnr b)'

IOI.Khlllg A. I ~t1J \1 l)l,;t~ lt!t"UIIW p~~~ \f j(lor
bkndu~
Ctwll<' dtC"p.~ll(lftPl lltrtcum: nk t~l( 111111: I,

Mld l\. ;wxJ d.f.l*' '"""~ bkndin~ "llh \t 111M' II I~
Uf(' 4al.
h,.~~~. lc
ADJUSTING SLEEVE TO
ARMHOLE OF BODICE
figure$ .to. b
'
Ofa,, the cu~'\
MoYe IIICre-net~atv
10~1()
Th(' hll\k ,~, ..... 'ht"MIIcl "K'.utue 'l~t,m;,.tm~tdy 2

lmht\ moft ilum' tin hl"'ln ,lf tht II...IU,rn lh.Jn
the <irctnuftJt'nu: u l tht- ;um 1he hhk ~...,..,.i: t~p
should 11K'.l\Ufe J.ll ~,.,., .-.J;~ 11( 1 1{4 tn 1 II lind.._.,.
mo ~ thon Ihe fr(lnt ;~.rnl h~ll.. ht'II.Utt .umhok. nn
difftft'ntt' l)l!:h'""'' tit<" ''""''"\' C:<ll' .and .armi\Oito
"
59
-"<rt~o
111\'.aw.nttt\t'nt h tilt' d.ll1UUIU Ol C'.lM;' rl>t"M...l In II\

0\'n tiK' 1'-'llnf tt~: ;ann. I ht .amnum ui Ul) N'A h
(~1,..-mhM-cJ 1~ tht' wttlth of u ~ l~t'I'K. thot up
..
,..,~
ft.ttt lht <"U~~ ruk 1o0 ti'Ut \. J.. 011ld t1 UIUC'h

Dra- (h(ocut\C' pa~ If ,,,bkftd lfi.(UtiO: ""'
1\t'i~ht . .1100 thethumftn~ ,_. lltt" ftom .lind~~

.lrmhok- ot ll't tJOtll"; If .liW rmoeo of tht f~tnf\ h
out of h..Umotl)' II \HII .alft It\(' ht o111d "'Pf't'"l.l.ll'
of llloC" t.kt-\,. in ll't toUnntn~ ~.ar"' 1.'\tt'\\1'-'~ or In
Wflk'k'fU cap c.-~. '"'' NW. ur\ol:qwll) dl\tnbuttd
brl"'ttl\ tiM' ho.u .arkltt..._'- .annhuk. .:md
tw.
in_g tOO ti~t Of Inn kx,.;c<. IIIUiff"t pl.i.'11Mtlt uf th\"
sho..kkf 01 <kk w.am\ of lhc: ''"m wtll .afft the
.lllt~nmtnt al th(' ''"('"<' It h "~* lO t:11tfe<-l
~lhlf'ptUOftOIIthlf'CUI'\rNk IIIIAhiM. f
.u1e1 G. .and dr-.no C\11'\~ t*noJn.( "''h It tuw
'In'\"'
thor.~
ptdhk'ftt\ llllfcw('
.HI.Ktun~ th~
tl<'t\to tn thc-
~rnwnt tn mmimltf' UnlnK tlfnbkm' I;Utf

L
Determining Cop Ease
.....
Two
fiQU<O 5
'
'
l:lbcl elbow t .~vcll), and extend lhw R IJ.I in<'h.
R tu U I hu:h. Mutt.
r I I) U H 10 I, l)r,IWCOfllll"(tlng
0 to V
Ot;~.w ,,
~bd
rmhrlfl., ~tt~'fll.lh:h to J"f''('lt ~""' ~.
\t.ut. the ll<"t<h 1~:'1\:.lll'll'l Oi the ,1'\t< to ttk: .arm
h(ll\' ot I hi: boditt
lin~.
Whrn th(' ''~"' ,,..., f\'.Kht--- the ~htlul..t<'f up 'I
the: corner of tlw hlld\t:~.
the bod~c~. trurl. tht l<'<.lt\olln on t~ ,!~"t\c "JP
Agur& Ia
Fnur~
lb
MOvo locromcntoltv
VP to !hh point
.iN i mlll. M:ul:,

line (rom U ttuou~h v cqu ;cl to S to P.
w.
W t u X ()to 1'. (;\dlu~t at the n ttlng If tk'<.'(\l-O'Iry.l

hr.~ .1 lhlt' tmllnx o11 wr ht ll\'t... Or;,~w a l>lig h tl)'
WI\'NIIin~ frnfll X tn \ IIJ I
fRONT
Eow Control Notct\os

~ I M..rl nut '' 1(2 lm h u1
tn ct lllh h Ill In h .lht!'\lt II
;~.nnh('l\t.
Me thOd 1: Walkin g tho Sloovo

Flgurfn lo. t:>. onc1 c
rlutc th t' t:OIIH:r Of th e h ont ' l('tW ,It hh:cp'\ 10
OUI.'IIJI( of I{ 10 t>. Mat~.
It to"'
l.:~ '"~l
OON"
,.:.net the s]eot\i: c~p ~r~~nd th~<UI'\'1.'1 nt ~'If tht
fll){l\\ d.lll l ,
lAC<
( ltlllfJ(dfll,( ,,. .\In_!\\','
Ot.IW illllll' (101'11 It to F-
art
~twn tu dth:rmlrt~: t:.ljl t.ll.~
I tk'
~~~\t:c:an !)( w;~U,t'tl arouud th(' hum .and !>.11.~ :um
hole, or lht: m.:.Hmt'llltnt ~.ln l'lt t.,Jil.l." hy u~ing th('
l>l;ml<: mtc. floll1 aw llhl\lloltcd.
I'IOCCtl
N
nwthnd~
fmm (, nd the s..~
I fhlll M.11k ton'!' lltc h Ill hKh .ll)tr\'t' i'J.

( notlmloli With lfuHu( llm\ tr1 dttttmhn ('djl ~.u.c..
__ I
)
Rcill:'-'1 the pr(ll..~~ l<'f th(' 1.\.lo:'k
*'""'<'
60
c-
DIW-llNG 1\o!E BASIC PAfTERH SET

3
Adjusting the Armhole to

Accommodate Cop Ease
Meii'M>d 2: fiOX Rute MOOSUJGfTIOOI
O..~le Rlk
"If
......
noc rt'$01\""('(1,
~o~nblr)('
,\cJd 1/ 16 imh 10 tht shoukkor tip tO 1.t'IO :n

\hOUI<k-flfk't...
Add 1 16 inch to tht front a.nd ~d; annhOl~ to

11!:m ;at rht: WJ.l\l.
n..:
int.ft'\1\td
armhole c:an ~ fOOft, Of tht
apt'ollw.
"llh ll.gUit' 2 ..md UnaU)
flguft' l. llwo <liP ~;;aw fnc (U.I)lJ~ l"'ltm t'l I .\/4

inchf"\.
Lmwr fmnl m.J MJ. ltfmh!ok rl0f~ht1 f.lo

~ 'k"c"""i:
........
Flgu!es '2o. b
hi''"''"" 1111( frNtl t~nof luck lltmh.:ld:
he-n th~tKh tht Oil t.l ~ h IlK' ('('olf~l .111\UUfll or a

lltUt nwlrt tlun ft"<lllirf'\1, the;- r-Jt\4.' ~roond lht' UJt
n\:ly \ltow 1>\K..,(In hm~ll ~tht"f\t. 11\~ '"'~' mllr
be thf' ""i~IH nf tiK' fabnc. or l~l; c)( c;onilol uf tht
m.11chl~ '" liM' lulln~''' h \Utdwd lucnmd lht' c:un-~
of th~ arrnhok. 1 he~'\' ('\;;"llll~lk.~ \ht"MUlJI. huw to
w'''~ th(' ..:;ar ~Jo.tni .lr<" ,;w"n
l'lt;_m(' 1 )!l<IIUkl bt tri<'CJ lit'' U th\" JI<I~.Jbk1n 1\
IIJ\II( 1_, 1~,. hrklu1ul"ht

Ust ~ lf~' Ill; '-"~h~ ruM< n n~fli~IUIII~ ,u(lUUd
bollh '""" '~s ~ \ft.l"''t' ;md r~111d Ill
thr- 01"~ (II ctw M1fl
fJgutttS IO
6\
,~I(:
'* hot..,
l.ow.:-J lht htl<lll <al"tlt b~\. bod.cf' not<hn 1/8

lnc;h to 1/.a ltKh
tIS to IH nch oi ~n-\..- ~"w '' ht"ld .and lllld'lfd
l'lf:I()\V' Ill(' IX"M!;hM. IU\ Ill It rtnulnl.ng C'olp ('.l.W
.1~ tht loM:~l notdtn.
I
I
;
L--.....-...,
r
FoxesJoO'ldb
'~ lb
fQU'tl to
y,..,,~rn l'il\&' li tht ,1fmllo11c-
rum .n ...1-lN... ,J.arb;:.
Tt.ln'l(r 1 ~ m~o.h nom tt'Me tf'ill'lt "'-~~'! .un ~1

shoul,lt'r dJ.rt nl ttl~ bad ~. \kf:J tho: f'll
tctn C'lr u~ tt" f"t-YOtal morth<'d-.
.::\
Co pEase
Flgvtet 10 ()('I(J 6
'
Mc-a<;urt tltt dhtncc fwtv.t1n th.r m.ult.'
If Lht: amlJI.Hltuf c.-p U11l' h ~dl IHII, cctttr .J

fl(l(<:h bt1to. nfl thor rnJ I k\ t1 tf~'J.Iill< I ht l'ltf C'\\,
1bof' CC'llll'l (1<~\.h m..,. llf' ITWJ\.nfltl H!lldi/f' lht
fl'<l$ot'. Com,nu. ,,. tllf' n ll '''
p..:nl, I .md fol
16CUI, \hi< h o~nd lllloiOCt tht 1'""-
j (
'''lfl
IJ the c..p taw u loc-K''' tro111r Uu1n ~ ol, 'iol t'

r;l~ ill-tJ2 ffJf \>J , .,.(' IH) .-djU ll!.t'lll~ hf lh("
\k't'\'(" or tlw rmhrol'" \\'ht-n 11 llljultr..r-tth
h;lvt- l~et-11 totnf"r1t<l ~ tc1 l''tf'\ /, ~ lA Ut <hi
.lnd 1oU1th 1hr ~k'<~~T
fl;.r,
f~gvre
F!Quff ,,
l oQI.., ld
~ffil..-lf'IO!r"h
] I
Cton!\!f I'IC'ICh
/T
<
lc
Do nor kH'f
"l
CUfl 1"101 ht'\
'"'I
I
l._
62
...
CI'IOI)Jef 3
tncreose "' Deereose the BICeps
Setting the Sleeve Into the Atmhole
,~
4\1 tlw- blu~ .lhO lnuN\ol'~ nr

,
C11o1JlS.1fiS IIM' \\"'1111
d'ft~~ (;IIJ'I CJ\f'_
'9
'
'
frmrfif ,..iT" ~l~Wtf'k 4.J./ I } lfll~llol Nif}'\
0
0
0
TJ>:' ~>t "nod .lll m.ullrt~:,.
Lt:lo:nd bi'pf hi'IC' 1 4 lfk"h Ill t".kh adc
$ko(o\1!' .,,h pw.h r-n l'lfl top 1ll th<' ~\

~
b~W>ol' d~t t.~ """' rhr ~ .... ut~
1
..-..rd unttl Sl'\>t tun't" ttJUoih. fnu .1nd bknd
""'" tht ftx'C'\.1 ar- rt101 the~"(' ck~n":.rd
untd Wundtr w.uns to..-:1t .II ' "1q k\cl frJ
.wdln~ lht dbc'M d.utkpt'llllbt proo.vss 1 the' tront \~me-- tlwlcn
lines ,l'l(bQtt' tJw ~~ "'""~ JN1t<'m.t
l"lld
,..,. -
..,.,L ::;oo- - j---...;J
c ..,.. '"
111\' )k~v, h r,-,"IY to ll<' l)l~u_'(l itlhltht" .11nnhok'. h

I~ n~ "''~"'" wh\'lhN th t 'k'1.'' l' >AIU.IIIlJlll \\lth m
hanJl 'lll~l uly to m >\nl o( Ihi.' \kl~ w.lrn ll I\ J)O<t.\ib lt
to llrt'th ('(l;, tht fit h\ lllnnln~ the Ul'kl,t\k""'t: lo lhc
.11nuho~ fr0111 w.Mth In nott1l ~nd tMnnln!l. the C'olJ1
nocc-h tO tl~ 'IIW:MJI,kt "'-"-'"'-~I it:,ut\') 2 ~mJ -4 II .11
'!.ln l"l.'l n~.. out of .tli~nnwru, It\'""'' lx' roto11tcd hl
cortm t h~: prMlk-m.
FigiAelo
To JKt"').)rt tlw i.l\~. tr~"(' ()ft mu\lln ot the I ~._
rk eM d"*~I)Q\\ tiM' <cntt"t ,,;aln lln(' .and UK" tlokq hnt"1o
Cut tiM.' \)('('\'('hom Ill\' f;lhck .
l\nl ~1hnd~ un bC' u!oC'\.1 to~\ tl~ ~"('('.lip
IO II~ .lt ll1 h(~ lh(' (.)II NW Ull bl: (;11111pc'\l ~nd
Ull<.hc.'d to th<- .uml-.ok- or l\'10 IU'\\"1 of ~thc1
0
0
ultcltN '"'Ill t.. m.kk hocn front to ~\. oouh

\lhdt On(' row Jt tht' \C'Jmln"K. .l!td lht' (l(htt
'95
\/8 ln<.h ,IIJO\<". 1\111 lh4: I,CIIh~l \Wl.h4.:) II) coqu.;al

tl"k" tlh tan-u ltmn t h< front tCI blt. .umholc
lltrnuk' ""-""t1'1 ~ f)n'<U"' hup 1] W!lt
noc4.:h~. tJ~ ~hould
lW" t"\l"nh \p.K'l-d to .,.oW
I"M.td.;.'f\
TD' ~"(';and ;all nurt.m~P.

\l.lrk IH tnch 1n uom cJ<h ('nd otrhc- tltt.CJ"
Plk"esln"'..- .11ll.1 fll.li.h ptn ar rht M"~ bt(~'P' m.lrl.
8..1\t e or \ tl11.h tht
'k~' "'
tu th..- .umhok of the
bodi<\' (M tht- t.'\1 Ill.
and fol io. lht: prol'\"U i.llo'~<>n 1n H~urc ~
Increase or Decrease Cop Eose
..
tt"obl~om~: Pu<~\'finJ; J fOUil\1 ch..- t.lp thar apfiNI'\

lllt;c .l pu ff i h,.'('\'1.'" l d ('l.n..not C:tp ht:i)thU 1\n' I 1)1\llc 1)
()r a
Sl~~ '" n~u\g
Evaluate the Hang and Fit

of the Sleeve
,,c,w
aw;n trom lhf' t.id .. "';un Un
'
lruo <kXI IOOJ''<::::o~--t---F.
creast' cap he1ghu ~~ Jl~t~ue 61-
UOi."5 th\'
:tll;;n with or h.mt-: dl~htl y forward
of th~. 'ihl t ~Jm (fi.ttuh' I )I I l ot' tht , lt\:W h.an s ,,.....
Wdld tht ll.1t lt: (l;l)tUfC Z~ nt mmc th.an I lndl (Ot
ward o lllw \ ltl\'
w.un
(l l)tllll' .l)l Sk'l.' \t'' lll,11 han,t-:
out of ,t ll~vtmc tH ~hould h~ r(t.htl urUil allt-:n cd,

00t'\ t h t' \ lt tW \ h HW lllu: kch Ill JlliH Jf(llllld
'i(), rcdm:~ 1.11' hl'iMhl: \1.'\' ll\g'' -4.!.
tlh' l.IJ)? If
l!l~n f\') 6 ;'U HI 7,

1\ lh~tt ln,u ftlrli! tl l ~..lj) c.,hl'/ U ,o, l m~.\\(' ~.ap
hCi)thl ; 1C\' JM)t~' 11, l'i,t-:111\' \ 4 .md S,
'
Sleeve wllh Portocl Allgnmonl

Foguro l b
f,JJI'~ (I
lnlntu .a-.c t I' hll)c.hl, url
l h rnu~h t lw gralnllnc
lu t h ~ (llfllt'r nf l hl' frnnl ..md h.M.J. \ k.'\'\' l, .md 11ft

In "Jfl trl th UJI lnr llw t~IM oiiii4 M.Int o.f l';u('
ntfolo('rl
f~r
J h oIJ:hl, c 111 thtH4JRh tl~t J:r.llnllnl'

In II If' ( ulltt I tol HH h unt llid h.w1 ~kt \1' ollld
f 1\'1 I lo~J > I lot' c 'I' In 1 II UJII,<I h lilt' c \ Cn\ t .1\t
lfl l~ 11 .IV' c
111,, &r.\lnlh l\' ul ,1 " ,11-ll.ll.utn'\t ~h'\ \ t' ~ .lli.jo:th-..1

wllh ot \ ll)thtlv ltuw,thl \ ll tlh 'Ilk w.1m
SEAMLESS WORKING PATTERNS
tmpertoct Alignment
Tllt blsic tl.ltt<'m M't ,.ho u\d ~m;.ln w.u ni'C'n to devdo,>d~gn ~Ut:ms. SUms ~~~~ a.t tht cornplotuon
ol the l~sic paucm and Clt'!tl5." t)llttcrn~ lhe t)r0ft'\.~a1 ck:~tgntr 01 pattt rnnuktcr may p!eftr to dt'>elopdt~l&n pan e.n s with st;amt'\t j:Noltt n " t C) '"''t' Um C'. U te daru a1t pani.ally ('\ll out and a punch hok b pl:ad at
the <'fld of e~ch d.an lor k'(UI-'<')' wh~n mKin~ tht J)llttm Cor ma nlpu~tk)n.
FIO!Jf o40. b
\ /tt l fl lll...'fi (1Jr<1WI ~t( )Mk st'liiN:
......"'
. . . _ - Alignmenl
___..
,..,
........,
~2o.D
$b'ai'IM!ttf ao tM No:t c(1itlk ~
---
......,.,.
...,.
--
""'
._.
~I
\I
/
-
"""-
SELF-EVALUATION TEST
!rot'IOI'd
""
Matehlng "rc:.st
R.ecord nurnl~r1 1h:u mJic;h lht' cxJnlJ)It~ . To chi.'<\.

your ,,,uw1:r~ rtfcr to paxt 805.
1. Chfl l\1{~ 21110 J.l}
Pot1orn Adjustment
Pott&rn Adjustment
Flgu<es 3c. d
figl.lrGS 4C;. d
Adjust tht: sbouldtr and n dt- ~.lm, .u Shf>wn .
Adju)t the ~hou ldcr and side sc<~nt , <h sho\""
2.
l~r(e<t flt
3 . Cap c;.~c for baik ~ll'tvc .l/8 ln~ll

ol. Gtl ilJ>hl~:t
5. Sl c~ve hanx~ to bad.:
r;
[}
On~ matk<d not mewed
lorutfkienl C.lpe~
\li.\pl3<'1.-d ru\lno.-..
UBI m.:lr~<&n<X~offi"(1f\'
&~l:m.x-d ~a.rml."fft
8.)....c dttSS b'rid,~C" the ~UO""'
7. Sh:C'VC' han~.; cltlt hofn ~ldt
('~p hci$,ht h'lo.l .Jll'lt
1\a~lc dn~'
9. 111\1
10. U tt \'\'(n hl' mllnt'
f~H
Hori.ront~l Nbntt b~
6. Pu<l~~r'S n l on~ c;~~s, \In('
8.
tbns
\dt\"111'1$ , l\'1: N.l#ntt
1-''''"v(' .:"r ISl~

(\lt\ln.)lltt
~tll ('('lll,'l , ...1' l'k'tC'h
II .
Ar~n lmll' rlotdt\'\
~-..tt in NUn<."\'
12.
1;(1Uitll/\' \ ',\11 t'.)\1.'
~"'' ('('.l\(' b .. .."S'

t-...'\1 tl.'f l\lttl.'lll !"nJ.Illl~l"l1l'IO
Jj , RotMill,ll. 'h"-'\'\'
14. lllnt)', h~ ''"'""'

1
s.
lkKii"' ,lll)tll~'\1
I h. w.~.t..tn,: iUIIh ""

17 \Uh h\'\1 II AI\'-
' hilt ~~~~ '-t\l:'l' t._lf\\:.ht
61
Seom Allowonce
COMPLETING THE PATTERN
11k' (nlkJ,.;iug .ll\' gt'k'f.:.IJ:'' ldrllntt
-\ ,'I)ITlpet,'d p.JII I."II'I 11.1'1 w:un .JIIn'l\ollk"' JUII~u

nnbnh rn<lh'tln. .. (JU!k'h ,md ,ln,:lot'\1. folilllilk',
~Oct fW:tn Jrllnnn.~r.,.t. l'.l llt'fll ,, ml)(-ll X1Mr liM"
\II f.nd urt".l~

~<,c-ln'
S~f'd p.lt!'d'n mklf'lt\,ICIO'fl t.llll'rt' frnt IIUI tlf
nwnp~I'I.'"J ~o~nd.lnb.
""'" '" ''"'
stoll~td-
.9f)t.,v
I
l/4 1neh
ttJom~trt'~~ in (\lf)suuo.:ruvc lh P""l"'', '""' ,....nn

inwmwhtlfl ,.,_;hi\ Jl'ltht Jlft"lu..ticlft J.'WO"' U lht
th<'
Boslc Pattern Set-Seamed
.umholn
,,.,
~.. "'"" ~J.K ln~t
~"'"'"'w,
0(1f~tiiM' cun~
.2
"""
l/21ncfl
Pattern lnfOrmaliOrl
hmhOk"' \'o11h
\\'f'lt~ Qt pnnt ,....uttn in!~'lfm,,hon dtoll'h r;IIIC'III\
och dun hrurn: .an.J ltll"tf\"'OI'W\Ahnn ~Jd bot

Mitlffl in bbol;i. fdlllp pn'l- l.Jrt~ pllttnn .art
wnum n blue- Ultdlan r~ '" Vttft. .:and mt\'ff.kUil
6n ttd. r.. utm tnft>rm.atMW! c.an br ~ il'l th(" ttn
tt'r trw p.utm cw pbd ~:c '""' tr.anbtM' .and
on the- nd't~J'I (If Nth ~ndn
"""<
~n
W~tUhnn
Cn1t linn
Sc)il'IUIJM
~ k.Jffl\ lUI'\ J/4 irt<h, I lndll
hMt't k ..rn\ (\'.J.t\ lH ti'ICh, I n<hl
Gr;unliiK'. lhf g.atnlint k dr"'n rhrnu(h the'

kn,tlh ol ~ p.JUtnn
r.. u.t tn
idt'fUtfic-.llio.n. I..Mirri
("l(lrtl./wt, f!ur.
C'~h -~lllTr'l
rt-VM'
IMt' <NIJT,pa.. t.n.
StYit' numl)(-r. \\nt(' tbf code nwnl>tt uldw f'tolllrn

stt-(oH.\.tMplr. lj6lf 11m~' ,.,:knlth hr 1\'l'k' of
pntl('ni.Jnd 6J m.a~ tdmtth lht' lblt('l
P.llttt'm sl1:~. Rord tht p.au t'm
''n
Pia:a C\ll, h mt lht' n umbtr ut p.n<'l <'UI from

PJIINn IO('OfnJlk'lt the J:MilH:nl
A lint'~r.llt"'tht \l.t.. ( 1n1 hom lin numbtr u t
Neh
ptt') C'\11.
Punch /CitcJe
A ')'lllllOf tn
tndk.u~
1\'Nrlng lht' t'nd fil ~ rl~>

l'ol.:l..\1, uf tmn kx.1 1ion~
nunon/Uuttonhnle plnu:m~n t
hl V('' "' ,ornN~o
5 <\ .l MJ,It:\ on p.~,.:c bi
l,
\* f'
1 1
---=:t:; t=-:1 r
. ~"''Nl
$>'
Do\CK
Sl >t t
...
'-'"
IJI
3363
10
2 K'tlf
...
DAAT MANIPUI.A.l\ON
WHY FLAT
PATIERNMAKING?
Dart
Manipulation
(Principle # l )
M'l"!l~t~oftl,~~'t
II'
""""""' """""'
"'"'
"'
A.Af F'llc~W. NG r.tPHOOS

rwftf ftAT Pllf'tVN 'IOf'"QUE$
-..-
""""""""'
fll~"'.IG flli'M$
71
II
ttsrm
.n
QrtiiOIIMAot~~
CWI'I~AON
""'~Ill
_7J
.73
~Do'I~IIQnfO
~P'Ot'41tl'\$
Cttll ,~ NrtO; Oorl
73
73
74
' 15
.75
.11
77
.11
.79
. 79
freoc:n Oorl
.79
lliorr.tflliiiQft'o>IQ ~
Ow:lrlf'IQOcrllOc:otiOI"
Mo:::w.- Abouf OO'b
eomc.tngltlltOOrl
SJNG.U.O,t.RTS(~AO TEOHQUE
SNcM In the Pwx:..

Cilf'll'.- f!Ot'lf Wo1U Don
Mld~Oot
/~- '
?'..t
'
~~
~'
' ..,
1.
j-:...
=
SIN~IU $(:Atl$-PW()TAl.IRAH$FR
JtO.NIQUf
..eo
Mlcl~.- ()QJI
~Oott
. .80
.82
M<IAtrMoto Dott
. .83
M
. . . . .85
~lipOoft
rHE SHOUlDERDARI
.
lht Mvlh<J.\O&fWO Working Poucwn tor uso
Yh\oon~d)CWf No l ~ed ......
, ,. ,
.85
.. .. .. . , .&6
bt.ON lt01"610f!od IOAtn"flOie
, .. , , .. , . ,a6
THE lACK NECtc OART
$UI.fVAWAri0N lEST
,
COI'MII>f'leV of Ood Angle
, , . , ,
, ,, , ,, ,
fifQOIOfPrlnCipll 11
., 89
fWO.OAAISllltf$-SI.ASH<$~0 l fCHNIQUE
, .90
and Sldo Doll

''~'
oncJ 'Notsl Don
II '.) /o rrnhOio;o and Yk)n.t ()rofl
rN().()Aitll $t II' r $.-PIV'OfAl1tANSfEit
. _9()
""'*''ii'IOI-*t "
. .$7
, .69
TIOt~IOVf
.92
93
9A
ll'i'OIJC.,Y'flW~11()rJrt
.9-4
IQJ~Jof f)OfYJ /J.':tl',l Dr.a'f

f'.(Jftf. . ~Kif IW If' andY~ ! ()orl
.9$
.Q6
SitU lA JA.OOU lUI
Q7
69
Wot "l9 poltl)lm
llnt !>."'lt<.-rnmn\..ln,.; h tht' l n\t~u and tt\0\t

<'ffi<'k.>nt tntlh()(t \k'\lh< {('n Ck\~IOfHnx,
""''
OOign p:ntC'mt that \Otltrol c..on,l\t('t"K)'of

sb~ and ht of m.J\\ IKOC.h~('d JL.'tmi.'RH
A.lt f.ttc-nunnkin,; I\ \tnlqut .unon~ och<--t
rntlhod\ in td)inK OR CO!lth o( l)ft" 60u\t)
~'('~ !Utrn' (WOt'-lnJ; J).lltC"JR~I lOt
mnipu.lAIKNl ui.inA the \1.11\lt, t'M 1"'~"1
---1.
~~
I
f.J1()Nt
,../
tn<'lhOdJ
t-l.u p.ane1nnuLtnk " b.w:d C~ott Uu~

major ~ttffl\tn.lllJRIC JKUKll~ .lOIJ tKh
RiQ~~: . , , nllll,lipl4.l1Pt Crfloc.lltin.datUI.
,........, fitlh.ns fWdtn~ n~ fbtC m tht
dt1J&nl, Olnd clWICtiiiOtf tftU1"3 IO tht hol
~~of .l mockl\ li)t\Utt .-\11 Ol~ upbuwd
In p:rt.lttf dt4Jitl m thi\ Chllpttc ~.-d tht
poem atld \ u~ tun~onTIJitton 04' .,
wOtl.Jnf: p.mtm tnto .a dt14Cn p.lltn Hhc'

.lUll~\ ii"KIUIUrt dniJCRI
OOf TO A WORKISG 1.\HfR:\
hom .1 m.lcr p.lthtn ~.u I ctoncd.

.l[l'(tfC\:t1hJpt to hi: ~oh.lll)tt'\l.lnd
honl!d
Whik 11;.)' JlfOil~ rHI lilt\ t.ablctfip,
dl"ils;n ""''".arc 1lotted nunm1p.

Who h th\\ j:~ttmn with \l.:h~u In
hlllld
~~.)~hln~ot 1preMI, lllj}i)lllj; ;lt'c:Otdln~
to lll;ln?
Look whJ1 hJ\ lx-.:n dOll<' to me
tl\.)t outf,,NtO" JMitl'rn h;, u.w~~\\'1
---
lhtl~ a~u~d
ltYM ~oc::>~
My ort.:lnal ~lliljll' llflll't rcd.lhn,

for what I"""' H not the S.'I!Ul'.
lltll wall, nnw .,~~nbll"<l .\1\d \lwn,
w,,,
whnt
confu ~l n~ b m1w kii(IWil .
1do nm look tlw ,,,nw It h tf\1\' ,
)'N w\III<Mit nw \~h:t luld Uwy \lo?
Hf3W t lw <k'11)1U o n th\' rtuKkiJIRW~dl'l.l,
m y ,h~lh' Uw 'hw hy " 'h lth h' '"' j;tlt\k"'t.

If IM''Jl lc.>\ed, w"' I~'~' \~\J ,uhl \'\'~'\\'til nn.t 1th
dllfltd, tl;m'(l, ;mcllllh-cl .11\d In .11l am "'''"'
j )t.'\\~11\ \llllj,.\' ,tnd t \nlJ'k\ \ IKI \oil\ \ f\'.\h'
h\ l\'.lii\11\JI, 11.111'''"'1111\l.ll..in~;,.
""' "'" \\.\11 ,

U, '-"'" ,,.,.,. \r" ' ~'
l'
I
'.
CARl MANIPUI.AnQN
WORKING PATTERNS
~ b.u.lc (Kit'lt ~na lo;;~~f ,....,..., fUtlcctlf drJitetl In
c;tuptt'f J Jtt us<'d thtOOJ,;Itc"'' ''"' lt\t ,u \1mf.Jm:

fIIC'rnS ;~pd tl~dMI;I'l!lftftH tkri\'\'d (r.,\AI thc-111
\\(nbnt~ttt'r'IU shnuMI rtn~o~ln wJII'Ik'-.\ f(W the' Itt
t'.l.pt'nt"f)('(d f'l'lltmrnJJ..N tfOf d.actn 1:u~ ftlt ~If.all
~~ mo compk\ p.aurm' w.1k't..- fo.ttnmg flolrh

Q'o'C'fbp. \P"f~ Jl'tl('fOMUttn nl,t\ chw-M' lcl
uorl '"'l.h ~Jmtd runnm

,, pattC'm ot ""' 1\f!t' c.an tiC' .a 1\tll'bft.J JUUC'rn
tspUit) ,, .a JUtltm C'\t\1' th.lt do.wh rrl.otl"' to .1
FlATPATTERNMAKING
METHODS
dMI,&:II. I<Jf \'>;oUllflk, If lit(' do:\l,gll ha} a pri~sllnc

.md th<' onl)' dlfrC't<'ll' h thllt lh(' pan<"h Jlt<' ~'OIIh
, r('tl, tiM.' p.uu:mrn.al..tr Will choo)(' .a prins:s lint
p:.tcl'tn w \'t'f,~ If ott<' b aqllabk. 'I his SJI\~ tin~
IIC'<'.auw I~" ol UM. liMI.gn deuil has ~ht".-1)' ooen
"''"L4't.l out.
4hhl) tlor>:;f' of l"fff .-{ t}ll(' ~tvtl..ilfl pottltT" ( Ullll

llr(llllolftolll 111Ktl HJ.I'tf flit' ~kul/ mt1lnf {IN (M!tt'OI rfto.
r4'('ffli'nt
--
Jlr'"'(td md tr<~~.~ ..n StiOI'\\ unul tht""' (\llf<'m

~ ts compkt~ "'thout ibi.ht.n( ~h paucm
mdhi' .art' e.-.pb1nrd ;md tUu\.lntnJ 1n thh , hJ rtrf
.-\ .,.odJna: ~ucm bOC'M'\ J d'''!Cn p.Ht<"m .1!
<'Ofrtoli.t p.llltm \t.aJ'If1 11'-lt tnd In

duntnUOfl;il rep! I(~()( tl~ dn"n
lhttt
rM t~umplc- tltu,uJtn how .a \\.e-tch

Uloukt he' m~r\al ~htf tht- J\,lltcmrN\..tt
two tdotntlfttd PfiiKt~ ~nd ttchm,tun m
pr~tln~ (Of Jl,)Ucfn 014fiiJ'M.II.IIM)rl Tlk" de:
~~n ltKorfXK;llt1 ;all thr Pfi.WI~ ;and
F.ventuJII)', when loo.,lng "' .a dnlgn,

will be \lhu<alltcd, Jnd
wh(ln lookifiK :It U\t' Sh ;lj)C~ of J).lltl/tm, the
llw 11auem 1hJptS
tht lcx;lli'''' nf .l
d1.'1l~n
ckn within tltt p.lllcrn tr,un(', Rtflk'mtkr th.lt 11..,.

d.lrl b r.:t.~IOnSlbl(' tor fit ~nd \\ill b: p.1rt of tht> tk
sign in one fl)rrn or Jnothc-r_ T.lb p.1,.;l l t tor fltlncl
piC'} and COfo.IIJ:IIf1.
IS rcwaltd.
fle1\j;ll jlt'Ofe<,h \tl till' te!-,'11.1 j)f()\1\de ;U\.11)'

wi o( t;lch <1~:1\l(n .md th(' .a(c:ttmp;.ln)'htg
prl ndl)\~s and IMi t('nUillll..ln~ trchnhtm'1,
Adt.lirtg fu lln e~s. \ppltf\ whtn d<'11xn Cutin(\\ h

g:ri'Jt("f thancht dut exc~i c:.n j'lfO\IIdc ..\dclld full
from
rt(')) is n01 d irttd to the pi\'{)llo~l point lbti\U.
~lmt>l~
to comtllcx.
f.a(h prlnd p1l' .md auuc mn\ .,lkln~ tc<:lt

nl<tut' Is carefully t>X!)IIIIIl\_'t.l with ch:.ar IIIli'
tr:atlon~ and \'XI)Irlll.\tlnm thfou~th~lt th <'
Adding co tht- paneorn~ ouU!no~. .ll'io tndi<.ah, th:u

~ matM.ll i~rlt't."Ck'd rru th<'dt..,IXft. 1111 11.,;1 1 u
fm tht prlnctpl<... Jnd rotOolllr'll).
((lfo!b.nt'i..
Through dN~n Jn~l)'\1,, .an t).Jtt'flmd

fNtltmm.al.tf\ .uw.r to Mknllf)- ~had' prin
opln~nd U'<hnkt,unto.ll'lll) tndn~n.&
TOllt\'('lop thi.~'l:tlt\ mt jl.)UtmrnJl.tr

'JI\()Uid cut nm~llm for t:W.:h c.k111(n proft\t
Pl.lc:t th(o nm1lln nn J foun CK modd to
study .and ccunl,.''c the ''~o~ti(>ll5hlp bctw((:-n
thc t~ttcm1h;ai'M.'\ ~nd n:'J\IIIing ,,.,.\lgn
THREE FlAT PATIERN

TECHNIQUES
C:ont(Mrrl ng, f1111111; tO tbc (C>I1(0Uf .\btl\rf, hdt1W.

and In bt1wttn the llu\t, lu.,.mx tht cl.ut l':ttr\\ 11,
bt olb~ In to. \l)'l("!in~~. rr ~thtt\ ( ,,,JI(IIti~ Col'-"'
Glu~ tl)' <'UI-c:M.II IM'd, lint\ olfld -'ltYlh116M I\ Ito! II\
fNct'CitotiC' ~I -l.ah f'<if.!"' 1 s~, for rmu. riiM.and
Design AnalysiS
Added
~
~
~
".
pautmm;~i>lnx thni~\IC").
i" \hJpt chJnJ:I."d throul(h mJnlj.'ltlLUion
l~ rt man iJ'"'~tiM. C~ngmx
lh<' <lfl8on.lll-.llt'm is P\'td ~ ~ bas<' rot
uthC'f d,~m.
~.IN ""o ilJI p.mnm.l!.tn( t(d'tn~o,~Un """"

lfrlttlttJ.-to tdoatl." 4uf\. tlhh to opm I he p.llltm
kw tnOft bbric. Of W'lh IOO'ttl.ap I I <lowr Itt
Phoc.aftJ"'III'f/tr MC'IInl-thr Mttn~ p.att<m h
tcr
71
tl'XI,
Ccn!ovt.ng " " ' - - -
Oort rtiOCC"iin ::;~~;:'

-......._
"-
'-
--{
DART MANIPOI.ATION
72
73
ChOPI&f 4
PATTERNMAKING TERMS
r.w ...rnnl.ll.:ll'l~ tcnn\ .Jnd lhtit d~"finltielll\ 1\111 bt
uurod~ whM'C'I"<'' ;\ppro:!pri:ll<' threou~huut thC'
1~\t IO hetp toiiC"iUIJil' u~IJttclhtJ:
TEST FIT
DART MANIPULATIO N
Principle # 1
,\\ l'.)tll dC'\Il:n JUOj('C"I i$ ("()n1J)Iett'd, tht' dtS.ign

)/muld bt C"tttln prt'hmnk m ulln (or f;at1rk' c ho
J.tnlm tilt dt\fgnl Mlclld;ad on a form or modl'l

ftlf tt'\t Ut Onl'half ot thl' gnrmtnl b n~d
P.IUC'm 1104. l1w.,.. of rb<"\1: llrk'\ nn ;1 u.IIA'd

MP." o1 tht' ,,"t>t"Lms 1u11om rt'Cittn~ dlttl\ tothco
deWpt k.tttun. Tht- hnn .~:rr 1,1\ot'd .,, .(Vklc4u~ lor
~utm mJnipubti<Wl
1\hl'll litllng thco form (unlt'Ss II Is .an aspnmttri

c.al dt~l~n. wltkh tt'qllir<'$ .a lull ~..,rm<'rll). A full
~.aunc-nl h rrquitt'd whcm filtln~ lh(' modcl. 5<-am
.. no.1rK"t' c.ln ~ .lddt'd in ont' olth"O "'')"Sior ~
Pil'Oh-1 point..\ ~tnatl'd rnmt on thC' pltltfft II'"

<'u.mJlk'~ li'K" tau.a po~nu. TlK r--urtn tt
10.
cw pll"Otf'd from. thH potnt ThH .tl~"t Ilk' J.UUC'rn
tJupr tobt .alrtft'd Wlt.l'k-uc chJn"'=tnt. 1h '1/'C' fu
TIH" wmlf"U p.IICC'fl1 nn bt tr~ on

ckl'lll, addln.g wam 110''"'"" dirC'C11)" on
,..,,t.nJ
hctC'm m.JnJpubiMift Tht- xt 04 .OihI'IJ: .1nJ

-Spft'..&n;. or P:'"Oti'U: .1 )tlctn to.t.ltd lh OfUi~
Wf'C' Tht nno p.1ttrm Wpt ~hdc"i.~Jn k.1
rum ot the- c;armrn t
Design p;~~ucm. 1"h<' l!n~ p.~u<m tlwit c-ont.Jtn'

-Ill tM l<'.a~ ~ttd to the- dc-v~
lt\1 ttl
thr bllfK
2. Sor.am ;1!~\.lf"l") c-.ln brt atkkd co tht puttrn

~C'UIIII" H'l dolh
The' ~nn(fu 1l10uk1 bt uilc:htd usins 6 co

10 S11CdM1 port h'K.h T1'lt' M".lmi ;t:~ prt:Uftil\ilhOu:t
u..-.tm Pl.k:~ 1M pnnrm on the' form Of modd lot
lhr lflol fU
Quol,ltes of the Flat Porte<n Porternmoker

,\ p.utrmtn.li. 1t.h C''tnf'11 d<.odiC.1tk'ln, will 1:1\- Olblt 10":
_.\,wh'zt 1~ ''miiJUUC1.&nd dllt\'n,on~fl bc!l~1

dn1;:n nd twtl.lni;J:IJII\'rn_ .1nd """ ldt'rUlf)
101hl01.h p~nrrnm.1k.1n~ prlndJ11t'' Jt1d t('(lln"'l'~
IO.lppl\' 10 lh<' d'l'"\'l'lcpln ck:'IJl1l
ru.e..J!u.. tn lht" dtiUI.'fi\IOil\ .a tllc dC'djlln lion arc
plt)Ctftl on che wntLing pJIII.'rn rl'lol.' t)rcxcu h dottc
to.hJk lhc ~nrtn IJu flJI 0 11 J t.lhlctc>t). hcn. lite
n.1me R.t1 p;llltmmJl.lniC
lm.Jiw lht. puXf""l.\ throu~th
m .. nltlulr.tlnJI; tht t)!.)U.>d

p rllldJ)IC\
<k-\IWill~ ll~h'IIC tlk ~lh:d fMII<>mm.ll..llll
dnd lhnkJun In <rc.lllnx.ln (','(,l<:C r<:t,.I<Jit of Ul('

dt'"\l~n
M In
)"011 <Ontlnut )'Our \IUdH"J )"OU IOIUI!ol rn 111 11
det~C('
d~doplng d<JVI\ both \lm f.t
l<" ntct;.\.try fu ndanJcnt.JI\ 111,,1 form lht: I~Sis for :Onfi.
1
crcues. ~UI\0 wilt your apptlo.IUtlfl ~~ ,;~'n'''"'1' <"X (.,..<' Ode en' Wnsl;ln g I'Mtern), A~ )'(~r fmowledgi' in
df'Sigm o f r01u cMta: dl ""l'll " lhnu- (f 1 .. p.IHtrnnMI.:Inx mtchocl I cncour.x~ you co experiment with
sp..c:c i~ llrnlled.
'
c, Nt1 In Ihi\ lt'?ll. IHt_ tht ho~lf.fmmi, ~llt.(' 8. ~:. tlWctice tool when
j'. '
Applying Dart Manipulation-Introduction to Design Potterns
The h.'(hlll<lllt' b llftt>llt!tl \Yh~:n lhl' <l.'HI of \\'Orl>lng pattern~ tbodttt, mn. ~1\"C. 01 J.n~; worl.in,t: r,"Ut('fTI\~1\:
1eloc:ucd In tilt t>tot.:C'i~ of tltNIIIng d\slgn l).lttern.~o. l'o \ rcJt<'" ~~~n iU('m, the drq;_o:n i-' :u~"-zC'\1. tl~t to
ldcntl(}' the tocntloe\ of the d.ul t\r cqulvalcJ\1 twforc m,mlpul.atins tht (UUem.
The followtns; dc'\l.:n fltojl.!cU lllu~tratc tlw bc.g.lnnll'lo\ of !X~tttm m:tm()l.dJIIon .).ll\1 <"a<h rn.x~'~-.u!J
br l'Omphl\"'l ln the ordvr .:lv('r\ l~"CJUW N<h will hcltt h~ prtp.lre tht f\.lttctnmit\("r .: J.....,ipM'r f\.\1 I'IK'' ~
vanccd work. ltoth ;uthtlc and tec.hnlc,\1 ~kllb .Ul' rtQulrl-d ll) "~-tl<"n"'-'fut~ -~.r~t d~(O ""Hdt'l'-
Patternmoklng Techniques
Slwill~l~'"''lt 1md on'cllll/': 1 hwu~h thh method. dw t"'n,-mt'I'J,\l..\"'1 '' .ahk- h' .;("(' h\"' thf \"W~10.tl \\\"ICl..it\~
llilHcftl 'hangttl hUH .I dt,l~n 1'-~tl\'ftl

nHth~'ld d<'l'' t\l\1 h.'\llllt\' th.l.l tlw m)r)..u\t: ~11\'"m t"- .....1'h<oo.1 11 ,"'11\k't '"" \-h.\1\!o."'' ~~~
i'l.llh'fll It'' .a l,l,t mdhl.'l .ul..t. \"\.lh ..:\ JX'fltl'k."<' i1. "f'C"l'l'\-m.'\1
,.,,,tnpk,..
1111 l'~l' KU.
l'it'c)tlllttlltt\f!Y: '( 1\h
,hallol'
orl~lnJI
,,,.rl
ltll~\;. dt'l~n
l'n.'"''
OARi MAI'IP\IlAllON
I ht' I ft'IKh d.Ht can be II.KOO 3l a n )' "ngk> br
kn"' I I~ \lr o~!,a:ht dMI; th..-C r: (nmlc-r front) bu~>l cl.\11
Charting Dorl tocotlonS

To j)WI~ ,,. (Of rh~ roOIIIowutg p rolft't'CS, cr,lft' ' Wf') tlf
lhcl)&Sk' (f<WII bodi(t> j).)Cil'fll <'oil IJJ: 1'\sl.;!ld .lt~ l,lt.IW
guAAIinf'S frllfn bu~t f"'O!U. nu rt..ln~ ~.Jt.ltal.an ~IotA

bc>n. 11M' guldt-llnt"S~tJtllshrumaln .lf<"'' '""dan
ttoloc.ltkwl .:md for WSUIOII: ~n 1-.llltl"'ll~ lt(I'W>o
\'\"<'I ~~~- .lf'f north(- eonl) aiJrl tC~~.-Uc\11' ht'(.lii\C' .J
cbrt 'c-.t.n br tt;ln ~torm-d .JO\"''niiC'rt" JnlUild l ht" p.ll
tf'm'J oulluw- 1br 1C'11C'd dart W..tk.,H h.l\~ 'fk'
OfiC USN lond O.Jmc'S. 'Ott' 1\.a~ )I'M,11UIJ lt(' k.JtJM"\1
J ~rit\ "11om ('Mlmunt~..J1ing tn lh<' ~~:n
rovm. ubri tht- ""~ dlrt kp \ .uW I
olrkl lf,llj.:hl d;ut olfl' )(JU.1tt.-d ffOIII l ht C('O IN from .

1hC' mkl .:mnh~C' d.:.n h thrtl (rou b ul>l t>oint to
IIH' .-rmhoh: not<:h , .l ud I he ~houldcr d.lrt Is p i;Kc'(!

.11 t ht' prmt~' line-.
ftlt.' sh.JII('S of the: IIIIC"tm U"11 C'OOfC'IC' t he

h.ull'C.IJl.llh,ll d ifttt fnWn O'll~ oUMlC h ('l :md ~l't' th~
c.t uml<'tun;g the o r.giJ1.-1 '''.liSt cbn ~~
lllC' ~U I I b:-oli iOil). OM' s.ii'C' .1nd fit h<l\'C' not
t"-""' .lllcI'\Vb\ lh1s ~ Refr"! t01~89. F"~l't' 2
kw \'f'fffk.1tklt1.
More Abovt Oorts

All d a rh r;~~~lll\1\' fmm cut\\'l"'< \ l!.)llf'\ Of the fl~urt. Ill<.'
b u\ l J, fn\UICk'tl, not l~llle<l, U the d~n I\ '>lltcht'tl to
th(' t nd of thr I~\'OIJil polrn. \ U,Iinlhlh \1.111 Pil't'~'
7S
....... 1
~rou nd the 1)1.1\l, dl\.l urtln~ the Ut o l the ~rnKIIt "I ht

dan $IK'Yid ('Ud .11 .11 dht, IK't from tht bu!ot poim to
rt-k>a~ f:~brll. J(u llfk'\\l fM tht' bu\.1 mwnd
'"'"It
Completing the Oort

The dan u n be' ltntt.h< QfM' of '"o ' ' )'lo:
I.
l ritntbR('\;'-n\tO\I.Ilhnll/lhKhofttM,o
\C'~mll llt bt-fCloft' '1oUtdUn3, IIW cbrt th~U I C' J).
2.
r~ tht <bn ~'''"' undtt Jir-.J U1td1 on tM
k'.&mltl'k. U~tUC' SJ
Agu-e l.Owecroon ot 0011 &<:...

Foll<iw t hC' ~nM~' fOf d!rUon of tht cbn C'' tt"'o'
wlwn fokkod l'h(' t.$t"~ h p*"<'nn on tht b.k-t. '-idl."
ot tht' p.lttcorn .1nd on t hC' \11-tcNIIC 1oldc-uf tht g.amtf'nt
f~1t<t'\S fokh dcw.nw~td feN tbrt$ lottN ~~~~-
whetc.: J kmg H\4:
Mmholt
Sltlc w~m
C~ntet lhW\
t.JM~n
'
fo ld\ t<WI.ltd th l!' ccntl!'r h o nt/b.Kl. for
d ittU IOC:.lli:d :l ll)'Wh4: r~ o~ hm$ thl.'
Sho ul{l\:t
Ne<t:llnc
locobng Don Poin'~Aopliesro me on.ooo

Coolrot
r.gu,o2
\ Her 1M cbn 1\ l't'lcotcd. d!"lW ~,.... 4 .!'n
h n(-';1 trom W3.h.t to ttl<: bUSt polnt.
Cc:nttr .1 nurl S s uxh ~ 0051 pott~t to r-
t~bh-~>.h the- d.'lrt point.
t)rJ"- tht ~-.U3l d.ln 1~ &om "-.at~t t..: tbt d.:lrt
potnt m.ark. l-.lbc-1 ~ ;1nd R.
WnHtllm
'11c foldl.'d d :u t l~>ll nw' t h e ~h.1 pc c1f till' w am 1t

l.l)") .tgJiml. If n ot, t hl dan will t~vbt whl'll 1.1\tdll'd.
Oart) pl11n' d ;u corncl\ (1)foke n lin ~$ o f th i,' IMI
t~rll ~f\' 11\U ,III y trh1llli1.'CI tn l /21 ndt of WJtu lhl \!.
'
I
A
' --'
76
DARl MANIPI.AAllON
CnoptGt4
lrocfng the Folded Oort
oort excesslrim~
"Qu'tl
.\dd 1 Jllindl M""m IIM.llrl('(" e)(ltch .tnd
/rorn J~'
t\u'K'h ~eld drciM tl(lol rtquer~l
'<Jute 5
('Ut
\\'ith thf' d.ltl fuldt'<l, tup chc pau~m ~nd lfOICC"

''"ht Tt~ tr.Jdn.g. will gl~ the
.ll.ft"\) th(' fllkl :11
\l1U~'(1 '~I.IJIC to thc d1r1 c~ms.
SINGLE-DART SERIESSLASH-SPREAD TECHNIQUE
I)IUtm. lh!: trc~"<l p;.uem lS cut from tNoptor nd

fl~shed on the plotted bne to, but not thr<>uJ:h, thco
Unl f)J.IItrnm.aLing t~l)tflol.h on tr<'VMJU~Iy tk\cl

0()1 ~tii.'Jn) "' ~ bo~w for Ut'~Hng tk\IJ:n JNIU~rn\_
n~chn~_"f, \\t>el.lna t.,.Ut>tn (c;hant-cl ont-odn ~am.
hit~. whkh aiiUW'Io Ow: ~ucm ~ tom~'< fffd}-
IM~ b~1i( bodice. ~gt' ,._, h uatc;d t0or tht l!JIIowina
........
Pfoftoc.1i. ~l'ntmbtr: lhe wurt.mJt iUitttn '" ,lt\'1'1 ;d.

tt'l'td toni)' u~t<h btouw It h uM'd tO <:rt'ate otl~t
dt-sigm Sl''" tht J)aU<'m rwotccu t(ltf fuu.nt US<".
Steps in the Process

Ot:sign .iln<ll)~i,. kkflllf~mg "'htte tht d.ln ~~ ~
('.at('d_ lAddfd fullnn\ ,)Ad ('OUIOI.UIIl .ill(' not~ part
of thl\ stf~U
rtouing Otot.MinJt llnt'IU on tht ~~~ P'Hn to
mdKatt "htn- tht dnlxn fkl'n<'nt\ ~rt klatt_In

tht foltoM1n1 pt'Otf(ts. ,. lu\C' h dr~"'" from tlw bl.nt
pc'ltlnt to tht n.t" (bn loc:OlliM
Punch and Ot<:t<l Roqu~ad

fiQUt. 6
\l:.niJ>UI<ttlon. Applym~ tht ~.uh mtthod to

cha.fllt" the sha.pt ot a. tt.Kf\1 r--utrn mto,. da~n
Unfold tht-dJirt ilod ptr.cil in pc:lfon.c< n~J~rk:s.

C('nlcr .a m;uk. 518 Inch be-low the- cL"t point for
Oort txCO$$ folded

f96e4
Th.c
u.~mpl<
illwcntt'l the ""'n d.1rt ,.,(<''~
folded t0"''3rd C\'nlt'r front For .. uotht'r datt to.
atioru, wt .trrowd!mtiom on JIC\' 7S. fiRurc I.

Cup the p.lth:m ~hen <'rt'.l~fo&dlll~ tht dart lc,;
A to 8_ Tht- uc-.l~ tnd~ .u dan point fnc)t buU
\JI,m point I pivotal point). Thh
ts dOn(' to a~tt' a
"'''hout thto ~t falling hom tht' ~uem through

manipullhon. If wor\Jng weth se3med pauum,. n
dude ~m, from dan polnt tQ, but not through,
bu'lol point.
Center Fton+ Wars; Dart

De<ign .t\nQ1ysls: Oaslgn 1
1be ......."dirt ti) tt:loa:tcd lO tlk ttDtft hllrlt --~~
~~ lhe' rd.lt>c~ ~ tbr ~ th(' pk.t,

and tbr fi.N\btd pattft'D stR:pe 1be itripcd ~
UJuura:c:s ~IQ o1 ~hot~
Pallem Plot onc1 ~
Foxe
Trxr tht ctQOCd p3!tcm. '\Wit; thteuutt uon~
waut d.ln.. Ubd ~ ~ \ .Lnd J.
Draw liaVI. laDe from cm:e inxl!
-"-1 to tJv:g,
poont
tht luc~tion or lhc punch and chcte S)mbol

(Suklt altnlelx the st<~mstros to se,,. 1/2 inch be
rond th~ fllJetl.. 10 thl:' d.lrt point).
Wd 1/llnch w.. nu., ncn~h. a nod punch/dKic.
, ,,.~~. C\11, ,.nd ~tlt.:h for t~.st fit.
,..... '
j)()i11lj.
......
77
'
,.
Ch
....
OAAi MANIPUlATION
Mid-Shoulder Dort
...loJ,..,
Hl)
~~-~ \~
'
In
'""'"
~"&dlr.o
eJ")
.,....
;
lv!J~ .
"""'
'
j
J
'
....
PIOolted l .....
F~3HewPo:-rem9'M:IOt
tr.pAand B. n~
1'1~ PJIUt'm on p.~ptr ~nd ~uatt.
Ctnttr dart potnl S.ll ln<h !rom hull pnlnl,
Draw da rt I{'J:\ IO d.lrt pou'lt.
FIQi.lre ..
Add
i(';tm~ 10 IMU<m Of
nuslln, ;1} shown,
( omp'elt' p.llttt'nl, using gcner01l p.uu.m infOC'

rtUUlon {Of gu ld.anc~. If llOCC'S:Stuy (see pages 6-i
and M1t.
10 tr~ fll, ~It on fold for full front; fOf' half
mudfn, add .11-ln ch cxtcn sio1l .11 troru. Cut ~('k
f),llll'lfiiO Cilt"llf)ltll(' d .....lgn ( not ill uSIQI('d).
\the h and 1uco~1 t he Jl\l.l~l ln (no

form or nwd<l for a teil fit.
IliON!
.,.
~t('am) .
l'lllct Oil
Jull()w I h i~ JIUIC('d Ur(' (Of Iht IICXI l llh.'(' i>rOje<:t$.
Frenc h Dart
Center Front Neck Dort
Cl~&.rt
$IQ1h"' !J'.'
79
0AAt MAN!P\A,All()N
at
Ootlgn Analysis: Design S
SINGLE-DARTSERIESPIVOTAl-TRANSFER
TECHNIQUE
1ht' d.:ut
\'~tl<"lld~ from
midtl t<'k to bust 1XIInt. Nocc
tltC' rtl.:ark.Jmhlr,.. t h~t cxl$1 among t ht- design. the

r\16c, ;~nd tht' flnbhed J)illli."nl sh.,1M:.
Thot pi\'01;\ltro..nsitf lt"hnJq\1(' hml~'t'1 ltUIIIJ~oUI.II

ln~ tllf'Ms""" worl(ln.: raJtlf'tn llllo J 11M'!
b)
"'"Pf
pi\'OUfl$, Shlfta"' JIUd 1~-in~. ln\-lf'.atl Ol UIIUI~

Tht ,,1>tf,Jnr; pantm h pi.k'<'d on lt.P Of JltNn 1u
ptt' tUh ~ push pin pbM1 du~h tht" ,.e,tM.al
po~n1. To trolfufrr ~ cW't to Jl nt""o kkottiOI't thfod.lt1 11
m.art.tct on rhfo J)'lptf ur~Jith JI!W ttl('tl triC'cd co
Ml aiSiang d1rt oo t.hfo pmtm. TfMo ~liNn b Cllf'n
pwottd. CJroosin#: Ofl(lt\.11 dl.n ~ fllk <Jt)l"fUnK
~btht"'"" (b:rt_llk h:f!Uin.iOC unu~ p.ll
tC'm i5 tnod to p.apc1 undt'frw.ath One~"" .u~ ~

thtpancm fut bftn trJd. "h*" thlml<t\)hN Olh
l'nll bt- tiJustnttd In the M"-"" 111( ~ pr.)ft'l:l1.
f\lsh pin, J..n:" .111o0 USftJ to tr..n~ st)kluW1
..dhln tht p.aucms Cnmt. Wb:n 1~ ~II'C'rn h 1\"'o
tnO\-S trom cht p.apn. the- hnn .uot tll.K"d hilh
Portorn Plot oncl MonipUollon
f9,<el
I'll' ll)t worLmg p;utt'fn Orl p.a~r with ~ push
()on thAA,;h the bu~ point (pt\'OC"I point).
\btl. llw mkJncd kxolUon fpoint C) ~nd <Un
k:c A on (Xll..,..
Tr..ct' tiK" K"nlon of p.altttn from dart
tbluc Ww ~ld
k':& A
to C
)!~ ,rt'~).
.......
c
runni rukn., ltilflS thC' ptn m.art.s J-1 .a

pUt. Tbt ~ .11r.:;~ on tM Ulum;~holft) lndk.acn
11~1
thr put oltl'w p;ltlmt.Jitto.1<d \\h<n tr.Jo,:<'IJ (:!Jfn

pltte t.M Stqutn'of t.'trct~ a.n.J ~'t' thot p.llt~m<
fat ftmu~ USC".
Fl()u'e 3 Now Ponern 5nope
Mid-Neck Dart
Remon~
th\' worlr.:ln~e 11.1111.'111 frorn
Oraw d.utlt KS to llu~t r){lllru.
p.~pcr.
C~nt('r th\' d.tu JKJ.fru 5/K lndt ltom th\' bun

JlOIIlt
lk-c.lra w d J tt l<'g' 10 l hl.' d.lft 1)()hU.

Add 1/llnch -w..m ' and 1/ol hu:h ltl\.'("klll'tl.'.
Cut In m u.Jolln for t~~t fit.
A
('
OAAT MAHIPUlAllON
MldArmhote Dort
fiQUI' ?
rI\'OIIh(' I,II('UI Ulllll dill1
83
f1Qu"e 2
l'I\OlJMttffn unti.ldan ~ B t""dles poinr A on
k!S lllout'tlo('S polnl A
J>~ptr IC~ "-'J..ist da..-t, .:and opms Sp:l" for mld-
em lll'JI('f ftlo~ w.ahl <10111 nnd opens ~ few

:\ldt darI).
ltJ IC'I~inhljt JIICfll.
.aunhok d.anr.
l~tt the rtm.11inrn& pattern.
,..,.,
~2
"-'
l>e<lgn Analysis Deoign 7

I A
'
Pottom Plot ond Monipu.lotlon
Figure 1
Po1fem PSol ond Monipulorlon
fiQUt 3
\hrk
cbn loar.on K J 01nd u;H,'t'
~
from A to C hii.Jikd
sld~t
.tfc<tr
~lltm
'*"" Ponem Shope
~mow
lht' ~uctn, dr,1w dart kgs to bust. ''I

1~r tUn 1'101111 S/tllnch frorn bust poi n l , and dr-.lw'
lh'W llottt kjliS.
MarL
m ld-:unrh~lc
dau JO(,rtkm In ;uKI tr;'IH'
1>.11h.'fll !r~m t\ I() (: (~h.Kh.'tl .Ut'.l),
fOx& 3 New Pcr.em ~
f'.:lttan dr.t"' I~ to ~ ..~tn ~

potnt S S i.I"Kh rt('lm ~~ ~,~t.
Rtlntl\'C'
Ot.t\'
lit""
J.:.n 1C!l'-
f'IOUI'O I
.......
HtONF
FRONI
c
Soc& OQII C
. M l poinl
fiV11 tlOinl I
'
"'Sl8
!
''
OART MANIPUlAllON
f<gv!O 2
I'IVOC th"' I'I.'IINfl u u tll d3tt lt'g ll touch~S point A
0 1\ Jl.lJK'f U lme> w Jst d3rl :Uld OIJ)Ct1S S~' for
SIMXIld(rIIJ) dMI).
Shoulder-np Dart
'tr"t' ttnt.a.nlns p.aucrn.
THE SHOULDER DART

'fhl' Sh{Mt\dtr d;atl ~hOUid txo rdcx:.ut'd '''hocn it lnttr
(Nc-s wllh" cttsl,;n k'til.ll 11\t ~houktcr dun. like the

bust dan, c:ul bt u~mfcorrOO 10 any kx.tUon .:.round
&$
outlhw. h can be ~ c:rtali\el)' by

or by transferrtng 11 to tM: waist
d.lrt "hen addutonal flare 1~ doesirtd ~~the "A11in oc
he-rnllnt.
the
p~tteu,~
c:h~nglng Its \hape
The mct common d.J.n loaoons are musu:ncd.

If preftnt<l. ot.htr locltioni an bt used.
....... ,
(~
t A
Poftem Plot ond Monlpu6oNon
10>'
Figure 3 ~w Poltecn ShOpe
\fArk lhould('fIIP d.tn loc~Uul\ CC.) .:end u..c..~nem from \ to C: l\h,l4Jc'd .:u~:l).
____
..,_.., .-.,,.,
R~nKWc Ptt<'m, draw d.art legs to bu~t . center

d.Ht point S/ij Inch from~~~~ !>Oi n t.
Or.1w ll tW dan k'gs.
The MultidlspersiOn Working

Pattern tor Use When Shoulder
Dart Not Required
Pottern ~ot and Manipulation
Figures lo and b
Tr.tc< hack Jl.lth'm. h\C:hKih\t; thl' 111\1 Une
Draw ~lash tine ff<'ll\ dnn pohu ,and mldll1..'\"li. to
til<' gu lch'lln ~:. Or.tw (ncln.: (FI)I.u r~ l .l).
IJ'f,ICI.' and C\lt f i'cintt UOill l).lll\'r (ft.g:ur\' lhl.
-3
Fogure 2
Cut ~~~(h bno uom n\.- ~ d:m .uW

mtd..;mt~holc :o. n(IC lhrol.lS'h.. f'l\-OU;l ro--.nt
Spre..ld ..ec'IICiru t.~u:llh;

f'L1~
on 1'-lJ'!Cf ~--urt"
fr~ J0\.1 MenJ oo..i.. ~'IU.).;kor. .in-1 .umh<\1(".-
\l:u~ c-J'I(' ~-.,nmil n(IC'""ho ~ .s.h,......,.._ l\t.uL

notdlC\ oo ltOOt ...h<.'lukk'l' l
FRONI
f C(t<1 e-.~
"'~f.()(' ~
'~-- ~
S/8
'
-- ~~~
DARTMAHIPULAllQN
fiQUie 2
t I
Cut 'la\h hf.C) hom ~~l'<'l.. ~nd d.ut kg lit 1. lOu
dtt 10 11h-ot:at J'!Oint.
l"t\'ttt ,uutrn tu ~,.lOS(' 4 houlckt ~rt. ( l'he shout
lkt "m j~ ~~ th~ d~r1 doslng.J l'apr to ~ut-.
Fqur
3
Ttxt>
r f
nt
),lltC'ftl and dr~w .'1 Str<'lght uK' rom
tf,l ,)()UkiC'I
tip.
Dr" dJrl l('lS to tht <Min point of tht' C'tOU
,..,...
I. Deve-lop patl('rn~ by tr.an,r.::ulntt tht' """'dan to the fOllowing kxattc>m. lmnA tbt ~utmmal:inJ:
thnlqut"\ lndiUtfod Aft(f ("lith IUIItm b ro.nplt:-1~<1. fold d.ln\ U$ln~ the mt'thocb dtseribed on
P:IJ;,t 76, fl.j;Uf(' ..
Sl:uhSI1ft':td 'r!.<t:hnlqu<'
( (lt,~,,IINX l'.rflmr
f".<Q'OI
....,,.
LOib<ln
Side- daft
fixutt' l. pa~ RZ
fJtUtt .J, p.ll~t' M
\tid-motJider
Ctnt~ frorn otd.
hf".m l. pagt'..,
\lld""rmhc~
Shouk1t'r-tlp
H~urt J, ~ 84
frtnch dart
Ft:.."!' l. ~
l.
Fip:rr:J.~ -o
excess Transferred to Armhole

Ponern Pta~ ooo Monipototk>n
Agu<e I
TQtt b.t<:l.. pmcm Jrld .1!1 marldn~<;~.
Or.aw lin< frt~fl1 d.:ut prMnl tn UBI JI,UidC'hfw
Slash from Hftl .11 ~rmhak 10 pi\'OMI pnuu .lnd
from tbrt point to, noc th~t!(h. t>lvt,.l poirlt
r;g...e2
C\Ot.e i.hou)d(or d:m. latH' rttr<~tt .tnd hl~:nd.
&
...
sa.:~
'
I
PrfOIO:
!I
()OOOnl
.........
figuro 3
f~o2
...... I
r.gure 3 AnotMr \Mts;on
l.ll:tcnd ,, li n~ 1)11.51 the 01>en d:ut to equ.1l tht

fton t 'htltlldc-r llli.'.\Suren.cnt,
lh.'tll.tw lhlC' fro m the n ew )houldcr tO bl~nd
v.U h the :umholc.
""
..,
n~ p.IHC'm (or l)n,j~n I tu~ bMn dt\-rloptd (fiprt I I. Wdl tlx ~ ~1ttm <n'ilit~ ~ ~ I ~
In \\'hial \~.&)'? ~Ul11l .t1 ~Uipt l.llbtk for proof_
~.tP;Jatm
S)o..lf'L"' trw~."'
v,.q.n ~ o.~~,,.,;)("'
<0
Photal-1 ran"fer Tttbnlqu~
l-<~IHJtt
f9JMZ
-.
87
~
'
DAA1 MANIPUlATION
89
Consistency of Dort Angle

To pro\~ that thl.' <lllJ;.I~ of the dnrt ltJS\ rtenah\\ <:on
sumt wllhout rtgard
tC)
lh lcx~llon ~round tht p.at.
te-rns ou l lhl~, M.ac-k lh~ follnwhlg ,,antrru In the

'<,uenct' &IVC'f\: lht ~hOUidtr d.lr1 f1onx~t d-Inhold lint), Ult wabt d:ut (Un~d ~11tfl1), .aod tlw
C'C'mtr front 1\u~ dart (ShorU.'\1 d.an-bro~en llntl.
Mxt a pu~h pin through tht bu~ po1nholallthrt1'
pautrns ~llc.l "llgn the: dan tqp,._ 11~- all match "'nd
h.a\t tht s.arnr <qrn- of ~ngk', from tht shontstto
ti'K-Ioncn.t dan 1ht ~ brcwnn tht c-ncb of thf'
dan iqs of C"Xh ~ttetn \.ar) Tht dlffcrcn a) d
rc:al) rtbt('d tO tht diStinct- from tht- bu~ point lOr
.an) pt\'Ot.al poinn to tht cd~t of tht Plllctn whttl~ din K k>t.at.:d fht dostr .a dart b to a pl\'ot.al
polnt,tht Nn~ tht s~ brc"f'ffl cbn ~; tM
f.ltltK-1 tht dbt.ancc-. th(' "'Ide' tht ~ '-'"'c.::n
cbn lorp tfixurt H.
f..gure 2
---
..._____ _
...
.
.
-~\- .-----
..
!;-~'
..,._u
~~~..._____
Proof of Prnc1oie =,
In the: ~n.s pa.ttem.J:n3..o,.JnJ!: (:.~ me J.att

~'en.) wJS uans.remod to m:m"" ~: b."lbOn'
~rowld th<' ouUinc: ot tht- trona bod:k--r p.~ttnn. 1b<'
shapes 01 ili~ p.Jt~ '"'3fY iMm tbtoc-~1n,11l ,..t.
ins panem. \\ben the:<bn ~.l~~.md IJpt\l
l~ p;!U~ ~~ the (llflflNI r.&..'"t Mt.hh.a('C' "T'hann
tx pt0\~11 b; USifl& ~~ p3:~ ptt'o--i()I.N\ .Jco\'rlop<"d.
the dan lc:to: t~"t"Cher. c.zrrcrtS thco f\ll
rern ..1M l:l("t ~rc-h s:xl.. .th~ ~Hem.' .llt,.itflOS.
rcrtns:
th<' Ct'nlcr uonts. l~~ th.11 ~~tttmS ""'n~"kk

t:\Jctt,lf~S"tt 11.
somo
CART MANIP\Il.ATION
AQle 2
(\l,l ll\l.ud uu..l\Uf('m.cnt): (:<,u p, I 1/Z indl~ I > CUI>
TWO-DART SERIES-SLASHSPREAD TECHNIQUE

t\ '"'(k!Jrt wodJ.1Jt 1'-'tttrn i"JI~t .and Wk' d.lrH ,..111
~dt\~ f<W tlw ptQtb th.lt j()ikl,..

(hf 11 o.dJirt p;:!U<'fll b u~ In lti!IIU~lr\ lllllf\' tlfttn ttun .a ~~ p.1Ut'nl Jllo:t~ .an ,td\ .antJ ~>~ to
di,idl:n,: tt\<"dlrt r\<n) into 1rkln' th.m
llx.atkln
'"l(
OIMittw'ltht (ftoltl\'t ol'lt"{' t'>C th\ dni!I:R.
httrm ~ ut the rn.lfLC't IIM'n' M'f14>f'llk.alh
nw mtW'II bi.U ,.,. tlw f.abne .at ~ 1<ollft ~~ .,.._,
...-..
fH n impro'~ ~ rdn..'*n~ r.a\11: o~~round the'
buSt
mound tr.ocn t1\~ d.art pu~nt' ro~th..-1 1h.l11
!rom oM.
lbr din po~nu of .a 1~ (Utlt'fl1 .;:ftll"f.alh

enctl o1 to 1 indt tront tht ""''' r-:-nt l":t'I'I"'Tf lilt'
$ode dlrt '~ ~ on the' '"r ol thr bu't
rup-far f'Umpk, \CUI' 1 -4 Inch. II <'Up, 1 Ukh
WOISI ond Side
Dort
De~gn Anolyw DeSign 1

\\";~i1t <Llrt <.hares rx: 1\lth the ''k d.ltl
Thr Jtlt>rn an ho u ftt'" -.. ..ntl~' v.n1~llllo':
~tttro.
l)r;~w
:a \(jll ltc: li n~ nn j~p;.or

}'IM:c Iller hont uu "-l uilf~ lim:, with \.\:flt<'r
and I.U~\'1, I lJ.f lndW\ from b11U !'l0il11.
nw \\,1!11 and \l,k cL1n JUilctn ~h6Ukl bt com

11kt~t tlll I.Jg tlll'l.lrd p.l(X'f ili ol J<t,Ullf'l.l and ..e:uRI('SS
!l.llltHI. It wllll>e
uwd
,H
I)Oa\t' (Of Olht'f
mnt "''''' h.~khlng uunN, ,,, ~hown. $4.'(.\U~

<:1~ w,h dolrt ur\tlll~otnl X hlU<.IK'\ lh~ 1-t\ll~rt
lult. (lkokc.otllh'M: b OriRin.tllt.alh..'fn.l
lr;ke lUKI 1n.:uk IMJ'\IIICMflt
designs;
,.n1.l Mun<btiont
IO ll-"1111, lf~,thC' )l..'".lllli\"Si hCMH atw.1 OOCL p.lt
ttfll' on nmdln. Mkl ~.-.cnt.. rn.1rk IKIIChes.. and
JllUKh l..ok'\ l~'lfi.UIJ; p;llttfiU ffln<!ill snm\ml.
ltt'i~;r hl 1'\IX'l'i o6 .and 67 fOf (omp~ulg the- p;lltC'fll
ln\tnatt<.Nl
In I~ Pft'\out d.lrt mJinipuLltiOO Sottits. only
91
fv.;re 4
fotrlin,~ !).1tU;- SfJ.. 1~11,.
1 h~ me-r !old li-H to\,ard th~ wai~.
w.,ru Datt;
Th<' fold lid tow~td lhc ctmrr of tht front .and
oocs.. path:rm.
Tocom~thed01rt5o.SttPil3tl0tF'~rolol b
.and c fcx ~~~-1M thc-ctln is fokkd cup;~
~ 1.1 0 ~nd lR across the cbn at tbt-.11dt' and

~;liSt 'k'~ms.
Clofl< ~h hrw- to bu\t po1nl w;as rtqulrl.'d t() tt.Jnskt

thot d.lt to r14hd toc,UiOIU. In I Ius tc'fks,. tnn~tf
nnl ,,..,,elf liM' cbrt C'\!S R"qulrt"l two 1.bsh hnci
ll~n.t point~ (Oft hot rtt\\<brt klatiOn and tht
othtf I rom lbrtJMnt oltht~t\1 W!rt to bust point.
l k \<b\llt"' ~.~tt a hln~ tNt pmlts the nU~nft_lU
'"""'
Luton olllk' <brt ('U't1\.
~'~ p;~th.'fn,. lor pr~iet" ol JPihtn, tuck-c.bru.
.uld n_,~
Poriorn Plot ond Monlpukltion

FIQur 1
I I'd<\' frout JlJ.IItfll. CrO!.Sma.rt sid( d.:tn locatiOn.
llr~w U:U-h lhtc to buf.t t)Oillt that i.S lC'voet with
tC'I\11.'1
lfont bt.m ~~tkn.
t~IK-1 d~rl l<'tt~ 1\ :111d U nnd 'ide waist X.
C:ut \ IJ-..11 Unt:tfl, not through, bust point (hing('l.
...
.-.
..
. :
, .""' ...,.
..
C F wosl
>r
t~I'IM
---1,!'-~--..L-..L--J c~ o4 SQUOfO
,,.
Sic:IO WOt~l
'0
3
Figura 3
C:~ttl~l the I)Ohll o f th<' wllhl d:1r1 .i/..t Inch from

bu' l and I 1/4 Inch~\ (ftml l~ut rlOIOI o( Ute
'hi~: dart.
ltcdr~w dart
.__
1~ ~
let;' hi dart t>OIUt\,
Flgtvfo 3 - - - ' \
rRONT
\ ~J\1 '1(',111\' ,\S 'Sh~\'1\TI
l'mt.h .u'tl.l nl\k'
.-n- i'lb''-..J 1 ,: u~h 11'\'111 the
d;ut l"''IIH
to
111'2
8u1t l)l)lnl
>~
1(-..t fll;
\ l\11111\'ll'tt "~'\lt Nl Ul(' :,)$J. t~'lf Nil'-"' mu\ltn.

,l\..,1 oil 1u"h (\Wl-'~'lt~ lht' lt\'lllt -'lt!J 1'\l\ l. I'JI
!'
''"'''""'Jr. ,~,'14 ll!u-.trJt\"1.1 ~
C>AAT MANIPUlATION
92
ChOpter.t
93
Mid-Armhole and Waist Dart

"""'"
C ~~~2')la~h lirW\ to, not throu~h. bust point
brtnA dart 1t'IP '' ;tnd 8 to~thi'r. Tape.
fiQ<JtO 2
( ut 'la'h UnM to, not thrc>us,h, bt1SI l)()lnt rrom
'twuld.-r M1d \kiC' dlllt (hlng4!).
Mid.$hOUide< and Wa>St Dart

Design AnofYSIS: Oooi9" 2
~1. tl~shoukk'rdart ~~~tht."~ldfdatt 111-r
f9o,lf(lo 2
~un can tit' U)l.od 3') a 3o(':~tnkit n~)ft..[n,; ilolltttm
~~~
(L~ )
/--.....
fllOHI
Cui
'
.... ...,.
I
>&~\
Design Analysis Oo<ign 3

Pohern Plot and Monlpulollon
Agure 1
Tr.att. I J,~Uern M.ul; bu~ JJOinto~nd mld-.mnhOI(.
Portem Plot end Manipulation
Flgl.d 3 New Pattern Shope

t:kl"'~ d.lrt leg\ '' and It , .pc.
1'0> 1
T~ plttem: nurL bu\t po1nt ,uW mkjthoukl,.r
l>mv. a $11th linetobuu point from mtd1M\11dtr

andfromdlrt po1m of tho:- ikk dJn tobu\t point.
t.11t
fmm p.tptr.
l>raw J tlaih Ill~ to buu pc1lnt horn mk.l.;umhok'

from dJrt llolut of the 1ttk' d.ut to bllil point.
~rut
lr.K~ IIH. jlaUCfll,
(tntcr the d,lfiJ)(IInt 1 Inch ( rom bu~t point.
Figure 3 NeY. Po-em 9'Qle

l'btt on p.lpt"t. TrOl~.
Center d.lrt potnt I mcb l-n'lln Mt poitl.t
Rt:dnwdart It,~ to..wtf'C'lnl.
llr,tw d:ut leg~ tO m.w dart 1>0int.
fftONl
IroN I
'
'
""'""'.
...
,.,.,.
\.
I"
(i
'
7'
lobOt
dO!Iti'IO\
'
SIQshino' ..
8.\J II l"''))n!
""" '
\.
CARTMANIPUlATION
94
95
Shoulder-Tip ond Wolst oort
ChOPW4
fiQUI 2
TW0-DARTSERIESPIVOTAL-TRANSFER
TECHNIQUE
l'h'C)t p;tltl'nt downw.ud u ntil dnrt ltg A t<K.te"hes

1\ C'ltl J~ll('f. (1"-'U<'fn will 0\'Cflll )) tr:lctd $liOn.)
\larl; point C 11 tnldtK'tl.. afld ttxt' 10 dllrt I~ A.
Doslgn Anotvlt: DMign
l>cslgl\ ~ th~ ~l<le dlllt Is tr:J!t).fert'(l to ).ll'()uldcr tip n

~ d:m. 1 he hl(lidiHI Md l'lokm Me tl~t~ught p!'<'lbk.:OJ.
fog. 2
Mid-Neck ond WOisl Dart
\
~
r
A
~\
I
luck
F9Jr8 3 New Pollem Shope

R._;rnO\e p.ltl..:'n l and draw d.ut to buit !>Oint.
C~tUC!f dJrt point 1 lrl(h from buJt point.
Do<ign AnolySis 00$100 4

Pattern Plot o nd Mot~~pulcmon
F~ol
P13Cif p.-anem on pilpt'f w1th pu'h pin throuJth

the btt<n polm. \br~ mWSnk t.abd <
Matlo:.8~nd tnctnpatnt (.lbturhnr, ~l"''l MUI
k~o--dr.)w d~rt ltg\ to d.ut I)C)Int.
""'"
PoHorn Plot ond Monlpulollon
Figl>'o 1
PI!Kt JlaU-.'tu on 1>:1K'f with JlU(h Jl1n thrc'lut.h
hu(t 1>olnt. i\l:ul.. ' h<Mthkr t11' C
Marl.. ;n d;'llt I\'~ ll ;'llld t r,n\' to IXllnt C
fiQUrO 3
,_
dorl~.
flguro I
FRONT
&
I 1:"1~"b tf'{'l:11 tuq and R"

dr;~\, k<:~ ~-c ~,_hart 5 KV tu.-lJa:t--' {\k;tl..._
If&~
______,
,,~,\,
A
s
t'U\1 flOII\1
('c:nt('t the: 4~n point
'
~
u
r9Jf(l1
f9Jr
3"""'p.'lttem:
"""""'dr.lv.
"''"'"
Rcmo'"
J"r1 ks.,-...1~.. !'-u-'-! t"-1mt
'"""'
dCI'I ""1'
'
DAQ1 MANIPUlATION
96
97
ChOP*.
center Ftont Neck and
woIS t Dart
t,
lkwlop ~'W.lttt'ftl1 kit the follOwing dolrt ~lion\ u\olnc ltM" p.aucrn.nu\.m; tuhniquo ind!Gltcd .\fm
pantorn~ lui'~ bttn ~'dopfd. fOld ln 4.br\\u1.cll11tw nwttl dldc .cnbtdon pol# IOif"tgllttS b. b.~nd<J.
t-i\'04"'1~Trotn!l.ftt Ttc:hniquc:
Qln-~Jolmt
r ..,,.,,
~....r;n,e
Sltapn few ( "l"'"hclfJ
Sl>opn [u """'""'....,
Mkltwck and wahl
1:1gure .J, paat' (J4
Sldt dirt ~nd "-hr
Fagure 3, P'~t cu
\houldcrlll> .lnd waist

Cenh.r front neck and waist
llgult ), 18\' q\
\tld\huUJckr and "'<lt~
A&Uft 3, pag~ 92
Bgurc f, P."IW ~h
\lld.armholt and v.-al\t
Agure 3, P'ltt' en
2.
l)('~lgn~ 1 and 2 <li!f~r from th(' twod:m ~ric\ In which tht \loaht dart rtmauu and ltM- 1-kltdan
c lwngc.~ location. How d o they dUf~r'l ;\u aly;c tht cwo d('\l~ns Comp;art with lbt wort.ln~ PJIIcm.
l'o-ur jl."'ll~fll ~IH11>es are llluilf<ltt.'tl. 'I wo l>llhllll~ rellll(' to lht dt'"l~s. ChOO')t' the corrte1 p.m.:rn
shatH.' lof e.)(h design.
3.
IXvt.'lu1, 1xutcrn s.h<'lf>es for Oi:1ig1l'\ 1 :mtl2 Uw th\: \IJ~Hpre..td tr:thruque iiJ\d th~t pi\t'tWJ-.-tr.tmft'
enethod.
Oeslgn AnOIVW
Po"em-
fiCpe 3How
1
~'C' plll('fll; 4nw ~n ~ 10 bust poin
Ctnter cUrt pottU 1 Inth horn bu~ olu~ redr.aw
o.s.gn 6
Pollorn PloC ond ,_.,.,.,..
~ panCin (lfl ~ wtcb pu..tl pn th.rnu$
k-p tO cUrl t>Oinl
bu\t poml \1.tt~ untCT 1ron1 net~ C

\tnt ~ll.1.1rt kill .uld tr.tet to ptMnl C
fAOt~l
...."""'
~y
~
J
'
r ..rrmr
. "'
"' '"
OESlGN!NG W1lR DAMS
99
INTRODUCTION
Designing
with Darts
(Tuck-Darts, Pleats,
Flores, and Gathers)
The d~n h Oil(' o l l ilt' !Utl\l ftt~lhk ~lhl Utillh-~

,,an\ 0( h<' Jl.ltt('rft. nw \J,;~c-.. ft\tt\~1 bttt\t'Cn Th('
d~rl I{');) c:an he: uS~.'d In vtl('l)' c>f
"a)),
l hnit('d ol!l) by lht lm:.Kin~Uou ol lh'l' dl'1i.I\1Wf.
C.''""'l\'('
J,.,,
o.-n ~ll.l~S u~"d 01~> tlt\IS:.n h rt-ft:n< ton

f'll"ll-
11kt11. O.rt t~uh.lil~nn ~rc- lllu\UOltl-d ~ tud-UIJU,
tllt;llt<S. O.lit('\, >~nd ~Uht'l'lo. O.ln cquwo~knt\ rtpl~~~:
tht- d.lin a~ rootrol .lnd will .1lw.l)'\ hor d!r~c<l to
thC' ph'C'M.llt"~hu or patttrn huch -'~> huu poinl,.
The-d!fftu.n("C l'tl\\'f'tn a drt o~rKI .a dan t"\\Ut\';llltnt
ts tht nunr~r In whKh toKh b m~rt..\"d ro~nd
-.u~ucntl\ \tttdlt'dl. Darb~rtstltch< end totnd.

tu<l.-<brt\ "' plt!Wh \btcb<. ~at) are fold('d.
)lltthf.'d kTOB fold. and fuJJn(,."'\,1.1$ -spreld IUIIJ r,;tth('1\"'J long ~ :..tlt<hlitte or o.a..~ ~ noc \Utc:hcd.
G.a!l"k'rlo ut iUw.tr:..to::d ~n~ u ...1n.;. tht\lnh\f)re~ and p1voultnm!er tcduuqua. NJ.
\"Jnd ~~!Ul U\.11'1-R, dMt) ld da:t equr..-~lm" folm'l "'-Jmpk(l( ~d.uttqUi"\~tJhouk!btcut
ln bbrk.. It h tmpoctuu to~ Wdi.tft!!"tnl tbCO'I.
uratf'd b\ \A.n1n:; the-~
..
100
100
100
101
101
I'UAI
,._
----
GAIH(AS
102
~CI-fl(lnSI ~~
OMT ClUSfl~ AHO OMI touiVAlltff.S
103
103
104
105
105
-c...o..
OortCMtet
TVC:IrOOrl Cbl..
Pl.to!Ck.ISfel'
~Ciu,f9f
Cont9f ,fOOl Bust O.iilef

GRAOUA1t0 AND RAIXAnNG OAin$
GIOWoted Oorts
l'kkio1nQ Dol IS
.108
PARAUll OIJHS
Prot<:t~~t ,:ronc:h Ootls
10.
.107
. 108
1()9
. , , ..... 110
,.
. ... 110
~lt(JIIOt 00! ,,
01 Neck "
.. . . .. ' Il l
PoroiiM Oclfi,-Copo EIIOOI , . , , . , . . . I 12
Ptlt(IIIOf OOrl Ooslgn VOIIollom .. , , ..... ll3
ASYMMEUitC DARTS ,
. ' . ' ... ' ' . 114
11<1
Al.,mmotuc R(l(jbt.ng
A$-)'f'I'WTIO!hC Cut'l(.lod Oofts
116
Al)'f'M'IflttJC Datt VOrtotbns
111
IHilltStCIItlG DARTS
'. 118
W11fV.ICIIflg0rJIII()WCllll
116
IM!If.. ,. lll'lQ Oorl Wllh C'70tt10r~
119
Dol''
~lllftl' ~C>otto.. Jfl\tJIJQioQfli
96
120
.-~
DESIGNING 'MTH OARTS

1oo
Chapter s
fi0!elo
,\ tud.od.lrt K o'l j)lftbl~ ~itdwd. ill\'tMtd ~It

matl:td 17\ .a punch hnlt :.nd C'ift'lt" ,lk)n~ tht ~
Mold :.nd 1.IS Inch i.midt t~i;llt<hlillt, 112 lnth
1
~- ~~ finlshtd ~h to <'CI''<'r tilt' dlltNJ'l'.
Agute 2
Cut J.la~h lin~ to, not thtough. bolm poin t,
l'lacc on p;ltt~n paptr ~nd bring <lltt ,.... 8
Jylfw~y to A. Secure.
..,
GATHERS
PLEAT
TUCK-DART
F<g..o2
A llo!Nt b ~~~ urutltchOO. folded d~rt l'ttkl st-
C'\ltt'h' JICH'll lhC' toining st"<lmlint. II IS ~'t'l
tlSM'\1 .u ~ dorl on thr ~lttfn but doc-J. n01
lrl<h.tdt 1>\ifK"h hok' 3nd drtk' for ~rt point.
llar1 kp ~rc- nocchC'd. C8rol.('n lint'$ uK'Ii<'.at~ tht
oriJI:hUI ~~~
Spc-ead ''aJ.Il<'d ~~ns tqu.ally and S~.Jr~.

Trac~ tht' oollint of the pautm.
m.art.s 112 inch tn from should~ and

ned. for s:,~lhtt lntrol
('Lact' notch
Draw bl~g Lint ~long the shoulder, touching

ttntt::r )('(:bonJ. of tht $Llshtd pa;ns.
k1;s .
Slosh-Spread Technique
""' 2
Aguro 1 Go"- ot ~
Trol tht front pmt'm. \1Jrl. mkls.houl<kt. y.
btl d;s1t ~1 A .lncJ 8
llr~h W1h Ut'W'1 l h"K"h wt ftom C".Kh ~o( tht
mkiShO-.a'<f.H. C'ncllnK ,u buJ.t pc'llnt tph-otal
1000<1
'9-<2
"
pc:Mnu .
....
... ..
.
...... '
Notch fQI' S)ieOI
FLARE
Figure lb
The undti'Si~ olthe d.mlllumatr1tht' lltht.d
.ut3. Note-thlt ltchtng u. l/2. Inch be)'tJtw1th~
punch holes.
flogu'<" lb
Aguto 3
,\ n;u~ h ~~~ OJlCil, unstltdU..'d d art. Th('OJ)Cil d~rl

\P,"H:C' h bhmcW!d acmss the bOUOfn. itunch hoi('J.
<lr<le~. (lnd notchc' ;uc not n<.-eded. (Bro ken
line$ Indicate urlg\n;~l dar t l eg~.)
'Cui
'
fl,uc ~h o lcl be added to tlu~ ~ide scam; .s<:('

fll.lltt-' IU, Hgurt-\ :J and 11 for .an~thcr \'Crslon.
f~e3
FRONT
F~Q<>'e 3
Mr:uk I..,\" ~~~~~\IICll'f IUlh:hl'\ \,lllll' di\I,,H~\ h~
fmm \ h nuldlf Iii) .ulll \ l'um1tk'l " U\'\l.
'I
..
101
,\ dd I 12 lndi '14.'.11ll\ ""' ' I lmh '' "''"''' '"''' lo.

<.:ut .m~l ,u t ~;h hn" h'\l lit
':
Dt:SIGNING WITH DARTS

102
ChOPI8f S
ft(~.~~~, 3
l'hot d.ut I<~.'K IJ, ~~Wt"fl n~ "ll.lft' S.

lt,l\"\' fJ.lll('lft from ~houldtr rnntk 2 Ill 3 omd
<oW1\IlMII.
11
fr"
..
1oc
,;.
- --
DART CLUSTERS AND DART

EQUIVALENTS
11K \bO (''~\('{";\ mny be. dl\'kkd ;'\lll('lf\!l!UUIII(lk U'jlotU
itt~\ nnd lr\atl"d dMIJ;l unit, tht' (J;IH tli.\M\ nl~)' lJt' kknufk'd
n.1o .1 gf<ltlfl of b.,-.k. <W ~)1itC'd d.Jrh, tu~;_\-darl '\y Jlk.m.
or .1 ' 'llrbtkMl m .an) ('omhi"'Hon t~r\"11.
TtK- foUQ\\ut~ ln,tmtUum H lt:tur('i 1. 2 .1nd Jl

appl) 10 th(' ~\iof"'"""' c)( cbu"- md.ood.1tt\. aod
plt-111 du~ttn Tht' s.1~ lints fOt du~tr a.rrang~

mt:n~ an ,.,,~. bting ~ ~nOd or r-adiating_
111~ ~umpla .11c fot poruct. 1bt method~ toe
lc.-"'rplc1~r~.t ~duster <hffn and ~ill be< lflustnted
by FlgUtt" ld.1rt dustttl. fiJ:ur~t >nud-dan dlU-t~trl
lind fiJure 6 !plor:al dustctl
fiQ\1'0"'
nknd ~h"'lld~rUnc.
, JUf" "0
Ago<e 2
Pwot d:ut I~ 8 cO\"tfln,.. "J),I(l" I
lrxt p.ucrn ftnm 'lhOUido.r nut~ I 10 2 rflold
1'7"
ti' ...... \
t<;./
,.,,,,.
line lndk.1tll") uo~ud v..r..-.n J
Waist Cluster
Pattern Plot and Oovo~pmont
Flgl.trO 1
1f.l(,(' IM\it hntllt\'.

!'tltl,lf~ :t .:ultl\lhh' c~ttl fulln t,\dl dMI k:~t l ln,h
tklow hu'l fl<'lnt.
I)( IW !HIJIId \lJ\h lhh"' hi lh~' ~\lltkUrl(' t Ul\!11
' lllift
' I\'.:' l).uh rU,I\ I"'
lrt\111
" I ,lll>l'r\'1 hl ~ -4 ill\ I
.It \\,lhtllrW fill ,1 \lhmllhl)\ \II" I
C. <lUU\'i.~ t uhU\11\t~llll
t ut Ihi' p,tlhll\ InUll
'
'
,,
103
f\11,'11. I
..'
'
DESIGNING Willi DAmS
Tuck-Dart Cluster
~~:,:d.ut 4.'"\~\ tow,)rd ~mer front (:1110\"' ptll
ttm to (llj'U. \\',li~tline wUI bt' l lllt\'t'll.

l>r.lW bkndhl.!( !InC' xrOU waistline. DrOlw SC<Un
attMam:t', 1/2-lnch line fl.U.llki w1th \\'.lls.tllnoe.
tut t \t<" ,.,hilt d;trts a~ fOidl. or t~ (with
tr~"1n~ ,, '"-'"-"'' :K'fon ~am .tUowan hnc.
l'nfold ariJ J)tll<'ilin t>trfo~tc.od lint.
10 ~ornpktt U'lt l"*'tt~m.S. (1.11 1hrtt copies for
JNa<'tl CttOmf' lw c,brt fqUh'.a.l~nt desired
cdant., tPd."Lun. or plc.-.~ts.; ~ Ftsur~ <4. s. or 6).
,_,
I
' '
'
Pleat Cluster
FigU<O S
Mnrk th~C~:-ru~r fokl of ~:Kh dart for pur~'" II hole~
onehalf the <lbtan(:t to d:m ~10int {\"Atl'l'i).
Mark Jnmch hole" in center .md 1/H Inch from
dart ltt;s.
Circle- i\11 punch marl..~.
Nocch stam aliM\'lr\ and d:nt tqs.
Droaw sra!nlhw. Cut t).'l\k l<'l and C'Umj\ttte lor

ttst (u
fOf ~tltdun~: :uldt, \C't lni.lr\Ktk>n ~h"n on

P'&'t 100, Acurt lbCun~lt<h~ d.\lt rndkat\-d by
hro&.tn lirlt'll .
"""_..
I
~!Old-
Ita more
al ooeh
\ldeOIIM
IVCk. \
II I ,,
'J
Dart Cluster
fROI'll
I f2 imh from cttrt f-"111'11 .uw1
c.rc~l4.
!"Oich p.mrn,lncludu'l~ dau ~"
nr.:.w gr,Jinhnc.-. fiJI OOU< biwk ft>r
W~ot
fit.
fii()NT
q,.,.u~" fl'u\tll hok
1~1
Punch ho1H-not rtquired for ptbtn..
-Silk:hlne
na1 dall lq.st:

Or-ow graln\ine. Cut bask bad; omd oomp~e for
Agt64
figure o
N'Ot("h uch dart lq lbrot~n l1~ lndiore orlsi~
...... $
! ! i
f11
Nut e-.:
1OS
OESIGNING""""' DAATS
107
Center Front Bust Clusler

ShOulder Clusler
,.
- ........
""'~
Pottern Aot ond MQn.puklhOn
Ague I
TL')tt t~IC bodKt'
Mul. mid-shoulder .ln4 l.lbd bn kg,1 \ .Jnd B
Draw .1 sWh li:n.: frr.m mjd-1;ho.'JIU!ckr to bU\1 poi n I .

Squ.ate..a guideline 1 J. 2 1nd~ abo\~ bu\t pc')lnt.
Fog.N2
Cut s1.11h hne 10. noc throu,tth. bw.t poinl.
U~ d.-u I~K\ A:anotl 6. l~pe.
Pl.l ,,n l);lpcr and 1Pf~.ld :dash llnt.o:s cquall>'
Or_.,.. (Lln ltttSIO I(Uidcllrw.
Tn rompkcc: l;a.lncrn fen each \ICSI8,1l. see Fl_gurt.'1o 3.

.f S, ;mtl 6, p..a~cs 11).4 and lOS.
Ora"' po~l'<llk:t bnl" I Inch out from t.u;h \Ide tn
guideline. COnntc;t co bl.\t point
Pohern Plot end Oovolopm&nl

Agu<e 1
lr..<e h.nlc botlke llattcrn. l.lbrl Ulrt lett:$ .\.and
R. 5,(1uJre ,1 line hom t:t'nttr front to bmt pohu
Drawn. '!uldtllnc I ln(h horu bust point p.uallel
with ctnter front.
Omw lint l/' ln(h out lrom N.:h sld~ ot lnlc to
guideline.
f~2
Cor)I\Cll CO
bu~t
- ---
figure 2
Cut )~h lines to. not throu~ bts:sr f'Ot."U..
Clox d.:ut I~ .-\ and S. T.Jpe_
Plxe on p;lpet.md spre;)d !."qw!J\. ~
[h-;}w dltt ~ U') p..tldtli.."'le ~ ~
Tocomplnt p.at1t'nl torc;)Ch~n. : f:~ l

~.
S, .tnd (). ~ H'H .Jnd 10-.'\...
tl(lhH olS '(hown,
C.ut ,,au~:rn fcom J>.1tK:r.
F9n:
ftr)vro I
31
-~--~ " c f
~~
~J
<
l.'l,otl
'-'
DSIGNif.fG 'MTH DAA1S
Radiating Darts
GRADUATED
AND RADIATING DARTS
tir.~~lu.m'\1 d.1m .-r~ ~ru ul '~f> ing: 1-tnsth "ithm ,1
,;.roup. R.kJI.llh\3 d;UU $J)tf'.-l OUI (miatt') front .liO.
t'al pcMnt ln:. l).ll.lnd .-rr.atl$1.'ffl~nt .:.nd N>' 1>1: ol
tht' iamt (If :1 jtt;tduJt< l<nglh. To prtwm b\llglns
at tiK' tlj) (I( the dlrU that arc f.lnht:S ftOfll the bu st
mound, thC' ,~,an lnt01kt ls gcnerJIJ)' 1/2. inch, "'llh
all rt>mnlnln~ t'WC$S belnt: ,1bs0rbtd br Lht dart dM
est t<tht bmt m~u~. L1st bad: panNn tOcOJnpk!tt'
thto dMI;l!A
Graduated Darts
DeSlgnAnOiy$U
~VI kJIUi"r'JI~110X d;MUU>rl~ fM,;houkkt
lint- Th' lon,;f'l .Urt md5 ~t buSt lt'\-d.
Pottern Plot ood Moniputotfon

figUre 1
Tratr hodl" ff<lorn .1nd label dart$ te,:s A and 11
Squarco a llnr from thr ttnter front to the ,:idi!'
'lot'am. ~\un.;
throvt:h the d.m potnt.
llfw a \la'-h lirk fwm ttnttt front to 11n<-h ~u

the- d.ln p-nnt l.abd C.
[)fa-w lour l1nh I nn equ.Jily 'ipaotd irom \houl
ckr to (WddiM
Cut lr-.cn JPl'l.
~
2 New Pot!em 5n<>pe
Cut fro.n tt~d: 10 C and from c
Close dart tcg;s A 01nd R. n,)t.
C\lt sl11sh lln('S 10. not through, f.!Uidcllm..

! ~lace on pap<-r, sp read , and UIIK'. (Cornet ~~ ntck
\\1111101 mctt, and p<trt of guldlllne twcrl<'~l''>)
1 race thC' 1>:1Uem and bknd nl'f:klhiC',
Ctnl('t dart point 1 Inch up frMI ).i:t>h lhh.1..
O~w dan legs., fold and blt'nd 'ihOUkkJ_
COmpk-C~ 1/2 inch st~mJ.. Trim fullnt t.brt kgs to
\\1th1r1 112 uxhot sam lint.\dd IHIIll.-h .Jt ll'L.
....
'98
. .I
Pattern Plol ond Manipulation

Rgure 1
Trace basic J>lltu:rn. L.1bcl d.ut legs A ~1'1<1 8.
Draw J slash lhw from mldnl'(k to bust !lO'int.
l.abtl c.
Locale mid-pomt 4)n 11114.' C Squnreoot 1 inch on
~:.ch s.Ktt-. labtl ll ;md 1
Me~rr OUt 1/2 'nth on r.c:h stdt ol C. :M.arl
:and draw )bill 111<'\ co I) .:.nd E and 10 buS-t point
1/2
I\
'982
to d:ut IM>hu.
1/2
(/
c
.J
j
.8
'
(j
h A
CJtlll
. --
109
OESJGNING WITH DARTS

PoHern Ptol and Manipulation
Porollel Doris ot Neck
11 t
Figure 2
Cut from paper and trim nt"d:line flldng..
~IOU' 1
l'r>kr cw0oo1.1.ut front boc.IK-e pattern.
l)r.aw t'ut\'Cd l),~ra llcl slnsh lln('S from dMt points
Tract on fOWtd paper usl.ng rneasut~menugh:en.

,.\dd
)('.lffi).
t~ ~Ide on ~1own.
(.ut tUtrn from INIJ)('f
,_.,
'"""'
"onJ
Cut toi.Wt point$ .aoddost cWm.. Taa.

DR~ IWW <bn pomts l itKh :rom on:g::tW d.lrt
..\dd SC'.llM Mid d::oaw ~thnt. _-\Jd ~!!li..
Design Analysts DeSign 2
l'01raUtt \-'Uf\'td dattltp:., btjtln .u cmn~r of lht' nL

dc:1,1h h ' lnch4...,
..\ tog ~~ .at tht d.l:t .md fWd..line m~
N~.d:hnl'
requun ;a, 1 4-i.:nch '<~m .1~ 101 r;,o.,t>:
Ponern Ptot and MonlpuloUon
Design Anoty$1$ Oe$1gn 1

Oni~n
1 felturts cut\('(! lnd pat.o~l!~ I f rc-n, h dan...

d.ut lint'
rt.Jtl ~f~:r wal~tand sick dJn tn tht nmnl
FigUre 2 Nww Ponern Shope

c:ut \111~h lint., to, not through. dout points.
(:lu-;r skit ;\rd w.,ht d;uts. U\JX'.
lrlt."t l'lltc:m o n fold.
1\d<l -w:.lnl~ .llld jlralnllnc:.
MethOd tor ~lnlahlng Darts
Figure I
1'race l\\o-dart front hodkt.
Dr.1w cur..,l'<l ~~a~h lith.' hom d.uc point ol 1\',tht
dan hl ~orn<'r of n'-'<l.. cro"m"'l. ;u bu~l
Dr.\w .1 tl.lrath: l , \:t<ih lhw (roll\ Si<k- d.Ht point 10
~houldcrllm and draw t:urw ru:d.
rI{!Vfft 1
Trim
1\dd 1/2-ln< h wam .JIIow,ln<'t tO darts.
J
~I
Whtf(' dMI '14:.am., c;Orllt to~thcr, ~l ash :. line

1/1(, Inch WI(\(- to within 1/llnch of darl tX>h\1,
ft,)IIJWinp; <Ill\"(' of dar1. Sl ~~h curvt.

,,.,.,. th tu\1< h,t(l I"''H rn t<J nm1piNt' the pattern
,,., 11"\l fll
-----1
,.,..
11 3
PorOIIel Oorts-Cope Effect
oes;go Anolysis; Design 3

)hl.i.te'd
''t'- <'tt.atOJ
dJns o:ttnd bC')'Ond si'UUkk'r
.t c.tpc-dtt. ~ nUirlr p.1roll~h ti~<'U~'td lintS.
F'I)U'O 2 f<x:W>Q
l r.-..:(' on folded p.lJX"r :.s shown. 1\<kl ~m.s.

~ez
foc:ing: Jroce on fotc~O01*
Pottem Pfof ond Monlpulofion.

Foguoo I
1)~ JMtiCfll, t~tcnd shouldt r I 1/.f incht-S.
I1Uol\ \"nk.ll Slalh li ne~ up from dll n polnh.J~f
.1111~>1 ~vlth tht' ntt'r front. Msrk bust pohu.
11r.ll"' .a C:UI\'l'd II 11'-" lrorn txtended si.0\1 ld('r untlI

it intt:nt'Ct\ willl \..-nical hnt from tht si~ d:ut.
On~o. 'J"'.rlkl <Unc hnot to nv.t 'ertta.lllnt-.
l'>rA"' .11 p.l,.Jiotl t"Un~ hr'W' few tht nl.hnt.
Cut from ~Pf1 &nd t:rtm ntdJ.Jnt.
......
Figure 3 New Ponem Shope

Cut stash llnM to dllri J){)InU an(! bmt JlOint .
Close <l..uts .1nd lilJ:te.

Pl.lltt on paper and tr.w!t'.
\art W,rl poill tS linch UJ>
Ora"' cbn k'gS 3nd nurk J>Unth holn.
.Wd s.r.ainline- :.nd st".tms as shown
._.,
1114
"'
"'
If
Jogsoom
' l
I\ 1"
'
.
Pt.rich ~Of")
r~O(J ut~JM
t.o,een
!Jolt poont or4 worn
dr.t~Jf'l(:~
r~t,
I(){J
,c.. opnrl .
\__'.:...--Clo<.o
uo
OESIGNtNG WITH DA.RTS
ASYMMETRIC DARTS
liS
Al\'n nwukct.aru C'fMS ct-tnN hont of tlw-s:a~mc"' l'lllttrn -th:ar~ts \\ill ~h:ul~t<' r~KIIc.-nr hom th.al of the "''Ofk
1
ini ~un.
ASYtllnlctrlc-darts rtqulrr ~Pf'<'l~l j)Jih'fll l1.andllns: .and ldt'ntlncOition, :IS do .all (~i&U that diffcc
from s.ck o sJdt_ Comp;uf' p:.nrrn '>h~K'J wllh tX'h ck'1.1J:n. C\ltiMliC ~ to complete th~ des.lgn for tes.t lit.
A full front rUmt is t('(,.Jir('(.l

Righlsfdt'.up ins.m.t~.tktn\ Iff tlfl~.H)'-
lbt f",Uin~ ~n of tlw h"Qrl.rns ("tttfn nl.)) IIUC'tf<rr with thf piXt"n\tnt of .a ~ylillt'd U.n. If >0, tl\(' dut
shOuld taru.anskmd tCffiJlC)l'Jtil}to olllothC't loc"tkln (\UC"h ~ m'KI...annhokl btf~ tiK" ~ttem is pklcttd.
St.lm .lllow.~:n ii 1:111.1\olr.n(d iot C'aril J).lltttn IX<olutc' ol tht ~~\ un~ ~pt' and loaltion ( 1/ 4 inch at
nt.: 1.'2 incfl .at iJlOtl)lkf, .umh<lk. .and ""J~L .a.nl.l 112 to J/4 lncf1 .at Ck ~.amsl.
AsymmetriC Rod10l1ng [)o(fs
RQur 2 New Ponern ~
Tuck-!lorts
Cut ~ath hnn IQ, ncu thr()u;_th. hu-)t point.
Cl~ cbn lq.os. 1a~ .. nd u~~tt.
I Jbtl tiJtht\idNall OtOI\'1
~r.unhrM."
[)r-.,1w "Calm xtO\.._opeft dolt:. L
..oo
Cu11roct'lp.lf'tt l!orotm~shc:M rbrdt!ardN
f"Lrt of d.lrt ~
lot.IIU\.
Design Mal'!'ls Design 1

lk'14h d.ut~ cn(l at th~ w;~bl on the ~ntc sitk', forming
hl<kd;un. S4.:oop ltddlnc c:omplt'tt'\ the d.:-sign. rr:uufer
waht dJrl\ to mkl ...lfll'lhote IO<'alkJil. where they will not
l nc erf~rc with ~otth iS, al t he ~l)'ll~l"tl darts. U.Cginncrs
til")' want 10 me a bll,iC neckline {bow not lllu.stratttl).
F\gute 3
To com1lttte
lh\.' l)i.Uem. tr;u.:l.'

txld. RHitklnN 2 lmhl'\ In from
sh1mldcr till, ilnd IJ.I \n(;h down.
('nclln,~t at rH~r lll.'ll lo..
lt('mfllnlng d un CX(;t\\ h tri nun~.'d
a t ihouldcr.
C',t~mfll l!tl' 1).'\ltcrn for
flt.
h'''
Figure 3
r"'"
, '
...
-"
'
i----,~,~.~- 2
000 jtC4Hi
2 tncb bdr:lwekh
(1'0 Ur"l;.
"
DESIGNING WITK DARtS

114
coopter s
_;..-
'2
ASYMMETRIC DARTS
Mvrnmeukdare:scr~i flttr front olth\' ~'""'"L l'~tt~;rn ihllJH't. will ch.ano,'t' t;)(UC~IIy from th:u oi tilt working p.llltrn Asrmnw:uk d.~rtt require t.JX'Ci.all).)llf"' lundljr~.g nnd 1""-'ntiOcation. :1< do ;all d~IJns th<Jt differ
from~ skk CClfnJNrC p.tcttfn ~lt.)lld with ~;.w:h t1~4Ln ( uc b,Hk IC~ to Mfnplec.:tl~~n for test fit.
10
A full fron1 p.:~Uttn n ~Ultfd.
Rl#hli~P anst~kln' .u~ IK'(<"SWI} .
n.t t.mhflll d.ut o1 t!W ""odJn.tt J\;lllcrn """*)' lrllrff~~ with thlt pl.~rMnl of~ ~}'ltn"d d~n. If so, thl: c.Urt
ShoUld bt trolnsf('n'fd tcmpot.utlr co .anodw:r lcxiliiOil twch .n rn"l~m1hokt ~fuo tM p;~ncrn is pklolttd.
SNm ~~.m b tUU'\tl.ltcd lot Neh pauttn tl<~U't ol IIW> d.lll's uniq" Wpt .:md loc:ation fiH inch <Jt
ntd.; 1/2 inth.u ,Mukkt.arnll.ok. .and~~"'; .md l/ 2to \./.& in<h ~~ ~idr 1e>~mn.
Asymmetoc Rodoohng
li S
'
Dorts
Tuck-oons
Hgy!o
2 '-"""""' ~
c:ut 1ola!l-h linn to, hi.M. 1hrou~. bust point.
C~ Cl.lrt k.~l-- T.apc .1rld tt.l<'t'"
l....abl.i rtstn-,l<k-.up. Of.tw a.t.linlll)t and .MJaJ
~ )lt"o&[IUXfOM optn 4An
Cut from plpet. ,BderJ tinrsshow tbt 4tscmkd

~n 0! dl.n l~l
\(o\1111.
D<>si9n Analysis: Doslgn 1

lklch <l.,m end at the wni't on th<' ~une side, fom1ing
hack-dnm. Scti()ll rwcklln<' com ,>le~es the <k'1-ign. T'ransfer
\\.li\1 dun\ to mldannhol< loatlon, ''1tere thC)' will no~
lnttrfctt with ploctlng o( th(' stylll.Cd d:'lfts. l~lnners
mar \\.lilt to use :1 b.ulc n~'tlo\linc (bo\\' not illu~tr.:ncd).
flgU<O 3
lo ('()fnllete th<' p:Ht(rn, tt.M"t
b.1ct., ruad,lng 2 hU.:h(') In hom
~hou ldC'r till, ,u ul IN lndl dO\\ n,
Crldlng ;u n-ntcr 1~(1,..
Rtnlalnlng dll!t tM~~' h tthnnwd
Ill
~h(l"ld(.'f.
COOle
Complttc J,.11h:mfor tc~t Ht .
.... ...
~.-"
...
1 2mdl td:Jwndl
cro..~rL
..
, ' I ""
'
'
1 16
OESlGNJNG WITH CARTS
ChOPtel 5
Pol1etn Pk)f ond Monlpulotlo n
Asymmetflc Curved Darts
f'C1J'O I
n.t' frC)nt
"1 ~4
~ I\
t\
~~
'~1 '-41
.....
fl3.llt'rn on foad, tt.llufenlng W;}ti-1

dnll' tn mkhmnhOk' kM:'~tion. Cut and unfold.
l)f.ll\ ,1 ouY..'I.I lint' from bu~l r)()int to w~lst.
llr.lh .lpll<~lltl hnt' frOfn bust poilu 10 r~rmllOie.
(~{
10)
\
Asymmetric Dort Vorlotlons

~l~;ns Mt' f)lo)(.ll<;e flf(Jhk-IU~. l'nlgm
t nd _. "'= JI)\'Cn fOI ~\anced ~udents. The: ~IW'ratf'd ~uem~ u~

rort('(t lfthl')' ~~~OJit In t.IC~tl 'Ptl'X'1UtltM1' of thl" dn;gn,_ l>tsJ;ru land t can bt SttD on tht D\'D.
}~h ~ y
~,..
I
FIQut 2 NWoN Pollern ShOpe

C"l ii.Hh 1111('\ to, not through. 1.1\1$1 points.
Ot~ d~ll leg~. l.lf>l.' .md tr,tu~ p;mem.
( tnh:r tl;ut polnh 1 h tC:h hom bust point, Draw
d.UI fl11.1.
l..tiX:I riKhlildtUf).. 1\dd w;~m,. and gr.1inlhl~
Cmnjllth" J~IICII\ fOIICst fll,
117
DESIG-YlllH DAAIS
INTERSECTING DARTS
lnttr'k'Chllg d;uH h~tnbl<' oh}'OIMCiril; drttl\ and
dMt ,'QUI\Jilf"flt~. nM d:lrtS ('f('l\'~ C\""lltc;rlf~IU olnd ln
ttnt "''h t3ch ochtf. To rontpll:t<' du d~"''~" u\t'

t:sk Net: l)ltffil. S Ctuptt-r Itt for JtUidalkt' in dt-
'-dopi~ (Kifl,t;S.
- ___
,...
IUI(i..umh()!~,
Cut and unfokl.
lkaw ~t}'ltJ1ne from dan point to s.1de""-aist pass.

11\3 3 lnthes below b\u:L
'
,.
0RW \11.1ft h~ for gathen.

Mart. noccbe-s. 112 inch out from first and la~
\llS.h IIJK' for not<ha a$ gatbef control.
:-r---
Design AnoiV1l$. Design 2

Dt'1.1gn 2 fl!',ltUft'l ont U)'ll.mJ d;lrt (f'OS~og tlw C'tfl
tef front 10 the Ofli)Mhc: \ldt'. t-ndmg -'be>\"< tht skit
wa111. (i.uhc:n (d.ut tqolv.altrU') form undc:r t~bu~t-
//
Oesign Anotysts~ Design I

Dam :are- tt~o~u:d a' pk.m in thor v u:..:uon.
ne<klloe h c:ut Jw,ay.
Figure 1
Tr":Ke ~nern on fotd. tran$ftning "-':llst <btt$ to
ll~u 1~11\:m on fold, wuuttrrln,t; w:.l.st dart to
rfl 1~1-.lrli\IIOI<'.
l)r~to. n"LIIne I Inch in from ned. at :ShouiOO.
IUt-nd to t't'lllt"f froru ntcl...
<ut from r~ptr Unfold.
Or.:~~w l&.nh linn lnt~r)Ktlng at t~ t er front.
lntetseetlnQ Dort to Woost
'
Intersecting Dort with Gathers
Ponorn Plo t ond oovotopmenl

FIQUt I
119
"<Jo< 2
fiQute 2
Ague 2
~~a~h
Urw5 to, n(lt through, bull poilus.

(:ltx~ dan kg!>.
<.ut
Cvt slash 1~ to. not thrOugh. d.u't p.lttt~
i>t
lht
l'ta.rl~:
I old dlliU.
Cl~ d.Jrb. T:lpe.

M:.ct on ~per .md sprNd ~ )".Uih
:or
s.n'hers ~nd (r."k't'.
1\ckl ~.mn o'lltd notdU.'$ for rtt~;~ t s.

!)raw )tMirt and latM!I rlghHideup.
Cut from P.'I)CI.

FlgUtO 3
lt,rt1.' b.\1:1: tlt<'lo:llne, mnr king 1 inch from shWI
ckr ,11 r\l"C.k .md 112 Inch .lt ctnttr b ad: nttk.
'
Center &11 romt t .:! rncb ft\"Wll "''t ~nt

.-n4 dr:.,, dln ~"!-.
:\Od ~.-~n": Nmd ,s:nh:eft\l .:trN
1'1Qw gr.linlln('. tn.\d l'h~ &:'!1.1 Uht'l
fi.Shtsi.:k-oup
Cut fl'(>m l"'f'<''
foQVfO 3
n.t.-c ba~ Nd .,o.~ ~"("tmf'ktt l"'tt~-rn
1~"-t fit
'
f(lf
120
Ct'IOpler .$
,..,.,
Style lines
INlftOOUC'hOH
122
Ct.ASSIC~SM.li,.M
122
0::J-= Pfw'lc$MntVO.IOI<W'4
ARMttOU PlltNCl$$ $1'YUUNE

Nf'rN.:MI PMc s,.,.......~
MHll srtUIJHI
F~Qne~~~cn
12$
12o
128
129
131
121
SNUlHS
122
\23
Figure 2 S8Qorote PottCMn
Ch(Jp!OI 6
OosJ;n AnotY~ols
INTRODUCTION
S.\h-hnM 1~11 1111<1 '"'' .;b~\th("-'lk''" lht"A.t' lh-'1
tl'fW~Yf tlw- t"""' .111J t/Kl'\C' lh.tl du ncl '''h/11'4."
.b!('\l\st\lfl1 du\ch.a.pltr .liR: Ihem '"'"'''l (1\'1'1 lhl'

!'oint. rrJI&arint: din ~
'''It' ,.,-.tm"- '''kUw
IMI "~ a..rt t'$")\ "'thm ~unhlltM'\ C'l'nlhol
tht (II ()(I tht .:unl('nl .tnd .ttr' l.t.IW J.Nt 'flli"'
Jm,tl., .to\ dl)CU"'It\J 111 f)'W' ('(W<.>Jiollf\ I<If l'llntlf'lh' 1,
lbrt "am(IUI.It..ll'l flk" OU(IR.II ~ .lfW hit.. tlw
~~ rromollrl1 ti'N- Untf C"\rft tht~~h lhf IU('n
ell lht' l"'llt'f'f'l ~*"'" t\.tlt' ~
lhfi'Udl
nururubtKWl
~'\kftnn lid .._""''\11'1( tv1ol p16nl .art' h(J1 d.Ut
"''h
<tu'""'
"""'.~.~tnt\. nw- runrt ~ m.:fur.kd "''"" ,t... r-
,...,. ~~,. thl\ f\~ :aoJ ,Qrliic"\ the" d li~T

b(nl.ftn tht' '""~ ~' ldlnc'
for f..llUt( 111\11\K
lk"ltl1o. \ ( ..h.lrtcr 1-. llffw'f dn "" $JYhOfU .lA"
tblt..l<d thl'o'I,IJ:hoYtllw lt'\1
IIH' C~"il jlflnu) h dhllnJ:ultl('(l b) :t '')'k-littt

lh.at 1o11t .II IlK hcrU ;md bad. ''/liM darh, contln
nt ,,..,., hul JIO'Inh .11rul 'ti<O\IIdtr 1~3dl~. and ('nd.)
,u nlillhtlUilkt d.o~~rt ol tht' l>:tC'J.. 41X"'itlon o l daH
l""ljlfll loU1 Ul\ lr hflt>fOl(' ,hk'firlt'). <i;tylt<linn idllrt
\'Q\11~ ~ktU\I 1\'J~.l" (!.all" 1 hC' dl,"\qtll <<Ill bt' ~
..
~~~~','.'t~~ ~{~ lnth h"m hmt
Jlllhll lflth'
~"16\'flt
( IJI and \("jl;&r;toh' ~ltt'm <lllMIK 't~klhlt' .
r 9JI" 2
\IIIli Itt tIW (Ill I'HMbtt JMfltn1 flllC' f~o-dllrt r~t

ll"nl h llhntU!('I.IIlllt JtoUff ~'f' h IIIU\Ir.ltt'd In
t h.IJ'lU I"
\ \
Pon.-rn Pk>t ond MonipU101k>n

f!C)U I r tOM 8oclcO
''J't'"'-
l>r~ lhklhw hllm nttd"IIOUkkt (in liM "ilh

Nc:l \ttnukkr ""'U co ~ po~nl .110\J from ~
Jill>~ Ill ltHJ..Ift
7.
k'Jt ;U hJhl
c... I
)I
ll~\J1Uit. f(M C>IW "lfftJOI I~ 2 lnd~

~,...,. .o~~nd
hu'-t p.Mnl
h'C' 11\.,U (1( '"u-d.Jin J~ltnn
bt'..,.._
IJt.l"' ~h hfl(' fr(Offl bu\t polnllo ~~~ porn! of

't\k c,brt
CLASSIC PRINCESS
STYLELINE
Jo-- I
1bt da\WC pntkt'i "'" .st... . ,...._~ ,u'kl ptr

f.._"t"tl."d .a~" w.~n~N ,.....,~~nt ~1.,.m It h,. p>f'UJ.u
$IOf: fJt()tll
N)(: for t'lthrr . ,..;:n \..n.lll..,nt \t.tml "'~ ~ "''
"~~dr I Jll ll\klii'W" U !""-"' I !St
fRONT
S>i"'"""
R<-lrJt.:C 'ldl" h unt
f>QU~e 4 snopong
~~mel .
:\h.11-.: tMI\1 uuw. :1' 'lhown. tl\nll.t ' liM' rqut'
wnt ofl~!n;d \h ~pt' o1 p.m!.!U
7"
"-::::::::::::o--\sut-1
polnl
,
'
'
'liON'
..
s.:.t~
f!QU'e $ ~ AQo.~ .oro E::zse
~'fklpf\t ~~.II ~11 ~lctn 01: II
n'K'h:- f..ll'< t<o nc't'dtd
"""-.h rrom tv\1. poml
"".am .md ~ad 1 " an..:h

bknd .11nd ..tu!rt
.......,.
ot IDOtt
f"\Qltt "
t.)
\.ldr
Rttrxlf'.
Fo-te 6 Q>oonol Front Panel 5nOPII'IO

To ,.h;lJW' fmnt j'IJIJl('l, 1'1~ Qd( f"'llC'Il'ln 111ft c~
rronl ~rwl. nl.ll('hln~ ,~;~I" and f\U\IJirlllllt~
TrAI ~kk pl11tf ('Urn hlllltll fUitellrQJn \\ll\1
ro 1~ Rk'nd. '"'QI.C'n lint ""1''~"'\('111\ c~or~in.1l
loNrt C)! fmn1 fUM1 ""' f'o'ltrm mkl, rm.ath
Ad,u<ia ('~ rontn11 nord~<" "" wJco tnnl 1~1~
"hftt "lll;t\8 t.lw J'IIIC'fTH
flgurG 0 C~led Ponorn

Com1lc:tt tht' jlathm, "' .,.h~n
ftOUI 7 8Qele Bodlc:e
llolrt' I~\ I. J~IIHil

l'l.art 'l..ht CUI\"f' CJfl thC' ~houMtr dan lc~ :..nd
".ll\1 d;~~rt Jlol)llll ;~nd droll\ tht J)llntt. lint.
C'.t'niC'f Kr.llnUnl'\ O!rl \1\I('J)and~
.........
\IHft \houlliN dl11 IXInt In IlK" \l)'ldint .lod R'

dro1" dMI ~' (8rul..('n llnl' lmli('.ltts orighu1
diH.
C. """'"'..'1.. ~rt
'
SJIOiiiU (llll $l)'klirw.
---
7f'.-,
.
"""'
~\
I ,..,...
&>C<
Closslc Princess Stylellne Vor10tiOnS
1 h(> fonm'"!nJ: ~ljtn\ ,lr(" h.l~.,J on tlw tl.l'~' p"nct".''\. .ifffn;n(' r"'tten kr lhdt~ cv out<'hn ''matlon' h')t pu<.tl'- U'k thl' d~,.,IC' rrlnttS$If \VU .ut Jn ;td\-.;a,...._e\1 i.t\ldml 01 ~dop ~ht bp: fiCIID dw N.,ic 1\IUf:rrl. Rcmemt)l:r,di.IW ~t)ltUnnon llw p.att4:rnt:..xth ~the\ ~.pon l.bt4afl:n. tb( fu~Dbt-J~
"hal~ ~hould 1\'\Uit In ~lfrtt lt'lltt\Cnt..tlt"" of l'.Jth de1-lm. If tht'\ do l'k>t.lor:.l~C' t~ rrot"ll"'''::IOI.i ~n .a:o!;un..
'IOU"".
Fqur&8
<.ut ilnd 'lt'fl.i'Ut' l~tttrn ~ "S

from o~nd twd tLI\\IC pru. "'p.tllrrM Mf(ntn
p1t1t" ;II\ W;liln)'"" fuf l.l'ot .... WOI~II!I '""'"' Ul
'
'
SlYlUNS
126
ChoJ)tet 6
Pottom P$01 ond Manipulation
ARMHOLE PRINCESS
STYLELINE
f~ lffOnl
lr.l.' .uul nn 1u.u u ,,.,u,tn

l>t.l\\ lirte frfltn "',11\t ~nd ''de doul point} IObu<ol.
( nl\~nl>~fl. 114 nuh hom b\1\1 fiOin l. l.abcl X.
I h ..",. ouo.lghl gukl.:linc from bu\1 point 10 mid
.umh~IC' 11".,\.ltl('ln CO'IIl 'at) along arnd.oiC'. I
,,,., ... I ~ In~ h \Ill .1t mklpojtn of f!Uick<lirtf'.
lltoa"' t"\U\ ~ "')tel il'ln f r()ln mid.armhok to bu)l
f'l'inl l \trnd \bn ~ I rOm ""Oli\1 to bust poirll.
( ~~rl.! lflol;hrS abo\~ ;and bek:lol\ bust point
Rout 3 rtOf'l'
bll
;<~nd WJI.I foll \'
,~
lhllh:m ..~lnl \l)'lthfK'
..,
fii()HT
tor C'.t~ C\li!Utol notd~.
Sl)(f~1
1bc JIIT\i'df PflnttU dttlp h 01 \OIIl.liiiCin ctl tJMo

cb))K JIC'Ifk<"'' Mid tatum, ~\1tl nc' th.lt (\If\'('\
from t~ bu\a
111 !ffll'jt .1nd It~ Wloukkf htldn
m tWt\; to .txu n\ld..rmhatt nw ~~n h <k\cl
I
I
1(1 rtnKJ\t ~lart t\t('\\ fuml n\ill.llrmt~. dt.ll\\

the. ~!Jut\ lt.nf:1 h and "tdth ~ktft~ \hkhot ot
b;Kl.. IMnd lllfc't.~n lhttl ~ml utm t'\ft'\\ tttlf1'1
tht IMUttn
opt'd from,"'~ pr~Htln 1th tldr t.J..In U.tn\

fnnod to mtd~trnholt a~o a C\ln'td d.art 4\t\ kim~)
foQVIO 2
~o2Boc
I Ilk\' ..nd t uiiJ.Ill. JNit rn Jr.andrr tht \hell rid f

d.ln C!I(U"\~ to mMS ..,rnhdr II wiJ\1,.. ~tt...,.rt ..d
int() dw ")-.lint
P'""' uf \OJo~J\1
clout .1nd c W'li\lf!.lf" ft>'t nut ~'

lh pr.111 1t)khrw tn~lt~M "'"''- pl.lclna (uldrl nt
. '"""'
ltlfn t ""'"""'" ltJ m .J rmhdf
811Jtvl f ,
.. ..
fogu<O ~Book
( ul Jnd ""1~r~u ll.lthm .akw\jt ' " lthnC'
P""'
Or.-w .1 IJrtt Z me"'"' ~P fNm d.ln
2'
Desogn AAo1ysoS
127
f!QV'8o'"..~crc~
ltur pdU'm rand'-~ bam ..t:ooldlnt ..
".nu ..ad ft'&.c~ a an:Dbl:tlc:. I
~ 4o not
tNt .. ~ -'4. parc'f t.J tbr ~
~at.lm'lbollt ~t-,-.:;h......,.~
Ntn4 .mrlbok ~~ t \ho:tcr ~ MloS trl:ltrtUf!tiOrM <.dr ~ 1::!- V~r.:wn.
wnl;tt .. !n' t1f c-.-.ch d,,l,:n. If lhl")' do n(M, kX'.ltC' thC'

llfllhl,-m ,uul tr>
t~n pl04tlng the p.llletn , r~
n~tmhtr tt..ll lin ;m: drawn Oil tht> ~ocl..lng l\o111Cfn
...,.nth ,.\ too, ap1~.u on tlw dot~ign . 1->e' ;,>lop thot d~
\lp:n' U\ln~ Ill\' IW0-1.\0ut pilU('III, (J\(t\7md S.Cudt'OU
m.H \~.1nt to \IW' tht ,uruhof(o llfhKnl p.lltern.l
.Jt;''" \\
()o
PANEL STYLELINE
I he j'IJnel ll)'lt'l\n(' I\ IM.ol .1 ll;an \"\1\lh.lkm bauw
It dtx.":l not p;m tlllou)th tht' hu\1 j)(ltflt 1he t\htlnR
d.1 rh tontrollll ol tht ~t-mntnl
Pcnetn P\ot o.nd Monlt:>U'QHon

Figure$ I Ot'ld 2
Tnct- front 0111d back c~n p.l1tt'fns and 11
'
nurLmx~
lr.k'C: front and ttl pomt-rns.

Dr.a"" \b$h bt'lft to ~~ li'O'nL
\t;a.rl mtl.l.umhok loatJOn.
Dnw J,J~nd Mltd&nn from~ lind md
l 2. ~ndl from fmnt and bad trui.Hrmhok_
Ornt ll tun~ ll.nc \0 tbt ~
'""'
oeslgn Anolysls
1lt\' p.md \ lyh'lhll' \' \tt'llih
lflllh~1ll' \l thl' II\IIH
th~ln th\'
"'"''"""''"din
,, ..~,, h'
mt~l
\\llhllt 1'1.'"
intt thr~1U.I{IIIn'' 11(11111 \ 'h\111 ''~k ,urt ''"'"''1'1'

tlw 1).,111\'1 ,,.,.1\'1111\' 1lw t\;lnt1 ,,,.._ IUh' ,,m .,. ' .It'\!
1,1 "'-'"'' 11tlt\'t ''l'l~n'
"'i
SlVlEUNES
Ponel Styleline Vorlotlons

Fqwe 4
'<'tl.Ht ftnnt pauun illcm~t uyktlnt'-
....... ,
(lt:N. d.ll1 Ito~~ on frwt )kit' p;anC'I o~nd notch at

lht 1-K.IIk'Jl
( ~'It: eLm IC".it.' un from )iotk p~ntl Ctlmplete
dirt
'.
rh~ I"~<U"--t ck,~.,
""""" I
, .,..,
'---7-.. 11.15-1 poir'll
..
'-
fV.I< 5
To t'limhl.llt thl. ~ide \C"~rn, pi:." thC" fronl .uld

l~c-l.jllln('l~ 10Jte1hcr and I'.IJk'.
f..\ttnd the g.r.llnlint rluOOJt)t tht' ttnltr .,, th1.
p;~neb.
M;,u._ ootdM..-t a1 "'''~'and rmhf)IC'.

Complotte J>Jtltrn toe tntlh
""''"'
\d\OUI~\.'\1 p;&l
ICfnll\oll.C'I\ Tn.ll)' U\(' thC' j).)llfl J\.llt\:111 hl df\('1~)
~.a\ ~twlwn
' OV' ..
"'" '"'""' nn thl"t'l.m~;l

p;lllt>tn
M ueate n thtr
G~:nerare Jl.llttrn' fm the d~:,l~:,n'

\t.}UOI!iol l) U\llll{ th~ h.J~( palt..-10
131
lht' ~~~"it~;n \\Thtn plocl\ng. dr.w; \tyk:bM'i t-u(lty

"' lht'Y Jppt.llr 00 tht ~~. The finhhed JNUtm
\hill~ 'Mould rnult \n fl'C'dt r~ntatlom m
('~<.h 001~n . 1f lhf'\ do nnt, 1()(3tt tlw probkm "'nd
If) .:.~in
AOOEO f\IWiESS
13l
ADDED FULLNESS: PRINCIPLE 112

l' rl n clJ1lc. lc' lm rNw lulhh''' In "jt.llfn(m tn o1n an~ant gu.'attr l~n l~ dan ~Jo.to~ ptMIdts, tht ~!Ph
Jllld/ot "'ldth \\ ilhh1 tht' t"NIItt'rn'' 1.-mt m"'' br lntrt.tl~od b\ \l,hlng&nd ~prtachng W'htft'fu\lMl, b fM'C'd(td
Added Fullness
(Principle #2)
c"'. .o roll111ry. Addlns;, to IIH. '"'''ldt '" I he

chanxc.liK"" 'UhO!.(Ut.
~l;l.lt~1n\ han~ lnnta~ thtmount of fabnc tn 41 p
Three Types of Added Fullness

To ldl.l f1.dlnn-\, Hk wort.tnr; J'IUtm '' lnnulofd In
ont or tlu' "
.. ~..,
1 QliOIII h lllnt'\\ ()jlpl'\ltt ~ of ,\ p.tUcm Aft

'iPft'.-1 f'QW-11), ii"K rt.l\lox tullnt""~ to 14-P ''"' hc~nnm
ADOIDJIAlHlS5 NIHC'Pll r1
rtoo.
'"'*of AckNd ,~
~lvJOeOf"*"-i
'\Avll on
!he Ptonoeu lJ'WI
,,......01os.m...,._~...,
Adc*l ,~to 0 Oorllf!IQ
'"*"'...
140
--
l!lovton ""~'1'\ rnc:~
132
...
'
-----
--
~- ---~---
.._
137
138
~
OOitQn \OIOt~
lkOUSOH ~fiON
.I
1)0
on o
Go~Mn
~cot
,~,Jo~ts
Ill
Ill
134
135
r.....-.o.
I l\
130
141
142
143
O n e,hl~l fulhl\'\\. One \kk of o1 p.tUcm h ,,~rc:A1

tO IIH.U.'.IW fullnl'i'i, f(lrlll ill J: ,111 .U~ \hJ ilC oil tht ll.'lp
and htMtom
nnrm and u n
A[)()(:O f\IUNESS
Fullness on lhe Princess line
'91A I
ldenlif)llng Added fullness
f-ullnh) from tht' 1"'""' dllll I\ aiM ,I\'\ dlrn-tr"liiC' I hi;

mnr Jhtoh<f~. ~ru '"" 1)1(' ld<-ntittt'\1 il' ""' lnJ:
Jdrdtd htllnn~ If tullnt't l>'"<on thMU!:h thr ktl!'th
01 ,,tefth or tht f:~ntK"nttll,!;,ur II. "''k"' fulfm' ' h
dJM"'1f'd ""' lwtn tllf' t.r"ttrtl!''"' : L ;uul ''hlrlthr
l:>lm)('flt t\tn'ldl l.lf'\'(lnd tl'l. c'tUtlu\C" <"' thr (i~w
r~rt- n fullrM"f.t rn~ ~JII'It-11 rn the' tcwm pf ~::;uh
tn. plc.Jt' d~J'l". cotn h 01 n.u~ I ullr'lno' <.ln bt vn
thr htlr\D)flt~l or '""~ or"' .tn .tn,;k . .tnd c.ln bt
drlodopt'd ~ tqu.al unrq!UI cw t>fW'o'tdnJ tulhW"''
Flg\I'M 2.3
Oraw ltfal.n ~klorllnt$ on P-\Ptl.
( Ul thrw~h )b\h lhln ~rating ~tlf'ln\..
11~ cut J~tlem plJt\on p~pn '1'.11httntn honl
bl\ ll'lW \btch ya1nUoe of p.\Utm ~"'th ~kk

lu~. Spw tq\Wiy U\11\J; thf: nllo 1 lf2: 1 ftt' 2: l
~~ <llt'al Male~ pan~m ~
1 r-..: outl~ ol paunn a.nd blmcl \l\1dmt
n.. dan lnl'
l lS
l>r-. gJ;IlnJ~ and <omplttt fur tnt fn.
-===---
~put ,,. .tdo.kd t\l.llnn' "'"""
Wdtd tuUnru nu' tw rornbuwd "''h lll.n \1.1

n.pu~uon 1Pnnnf*' lt .lnd COII'Itounn.c tf'nnu pk
Jt. f[.umpn d t.ht\ "''U ~ dJUUI,JI~ thr~t.Jul
thr '""'
Tbt p.antmnuLn cktmtnn ttw n-pr of tullnm ~ ~ t1w .,;n cJw- ~~h " l't'fkkrf'd
\\hrn tht P'utmm.aLn il unw of ttw dt1.i,.nn,
rntfflt. rt nbnc coul. btfor'( ~nt:. tht 1"1111
Method lor Aolllng 1M f'o!te<n
Design Anol'(Sis Design 1
fo< Added Fulfneu

-\ddtd fultnrs' 1$ ploU('d ~ .. knn oi \trar~~tht '-IJm
hnn dr""" ~'tho: pm~:m l.n the' JJft\UOn thor
fullot'S~ ..ppe.m on thor dnlrn th<lruvnt.lJI\ \\:fU
all). Of on 1n ~n~ ' Whrn ~r\ni; tht piUtrn.
tht btgtnnmg .and ~nd of r.ach \J,Hh luw d~-ptntl on
"hm the full~\ btglnJ ~nd tfld, on 1~ dniJtn
Tht' d.lrt oct\.\ b oittn 1:\wrt'M.V into thC' o~ddtd
rht fK10(\"\\ h l(~lhtrrtl fin ('okh ~lolk- ol ..,ykl~

from Wdl\1 to under b u \1 oukl :u fr(mt ~de w;~rn, l.n
dic-Jtlnt Jl.1rdlltl fullnt" rJ\....IKn 21' for lr,l(lkt
PoMern Ptol and Manlpulallan

Rguro 1
fvlln~t..
lt<S\~ frunt ,uul \ldr fll)nt ptilltl"' f'),lnc.'h l n(lu~

I(IOilnlll~. rh(' lla\lt b;~<lo. h I'IOIIIht\tf,tU,'\1
Or.aw ~lll\h lim'
Formula lor Adding Fullness
whl'll' th~ ~.-un~r\ lndlt.t~t

Numhcr t.'O\(h ,,'CIIm .1nd (\It holllJt.lJK'r.
,IQVI'... 3
lo dt-tcnninc th..- o~mCillnt of addnl f11lln<\\ dC:\ut'l.l,

giw (c>midcratietn to tt~: lo~brk t}pt lllthl""'rlRtll
and IOCMiy ""'0\'00 fabtiH W111tlft\n~1 chifftm\, (t,t
t">.:ampf(' 111.1)' rcqulrt tnrJrr fuiiM\\ tho~n l1'.1ll.y,
c~ly \\0\'ffi fabrlu l:~n~ 26-inch \'J.IIl\1 a\ ""
C"Xamplt-, o~ddtd fullnt-n m.ay ~u..~l:
I \_.
!9"t
lwn lirnn tht lnt.t\lllffflf'1\IIU'J
21,
I"-O"'na ur)(' hllt1mn tht ITk'"'""' mt nt 1ll!'
'
"' tt~ l'l tt..,ut: ''' b1 'nc'""w,.~ I <Air,.,.. ttl(' ""''" ,1.
''" ~h t'~tuplt lh1 111'11\lted kn1th (,f c-...c hum
Jk ~..-.oukl It~ Ill IIIC.ht'l "''' thr "'"'"loin''"' 1 -C'
'lflohrfl dttt1AIIUUIJ: hilll-\..
..
,_ ,
I
~---
lfJ hdJ) IRU'I ttiC' f')f' 1ft 'VIW.I Ml dJift-lr nt

o~m111nl \~f fulll'lriL\, fll<~l.l N.amptn u\u 111 tnt hn
--- ....
'I
SZ~I
u n oc.1
-~---
t' ~
I
Ont' and 01\e-.half 11m1:11ht mt,.lf('fflolfltiU.~
--
A000 f ULLNESS
136
Ch(lpr@l' 7
FuUness o1 0 Semi-Yoke AbOVe Bust
.,. , '
.,..,.., 1
Added Fullness too Dart Leg
Oos.lgn Anolys.ls
A \ l1on ~I\ l1..llnr .lbi)\ ,. IIH' buS-t o f l'ni~n 2 controls
~tiM'H '""' ('nd <~I mklu mhok'. Onr-)id('(l lullnt'n
I\ lmllt<~t< f}(\IJ,:Il\ 1 and l arr I\ t;h't.'n for ptilc:1K't'.
fiQure 2
\la\h da n ~.,tO bu\t point. OOv Yfllht d.lln
O.rt k."& b \h.lped to K\tour tht buSt.
Cut '"'-Htm hom. P-lll'C'' Ora~ \ lash lin~
J..o'>Jt> 2
_)
[}!;fJ
Design Analysis O..lgn l

AnJipt tht' ~lgn a.ntl plot of t ht p.aUtn1).
Pattern PkJt ond Mor.pvlobOn
F<P
PoHorn Plol and Monlpulollon
Tr:K't' front bodn.
Sq~.U~~ from
F;gures 10. b
Remove d Jrt tXC\'\~ horn 1:hoollltr.
p~ thf.' front nnd I:N\~ Ck'ill'l,n ~ \ indkJI~
ctonrtt front co mJd.,umtKIt
Squ.~rt ~ 1Luh hnr to cUrt point
l.lbrl \
lll'ln in tht: du~tkln lullncou Iolii\
and cus paut-m from f"ptf
Oraw
~uh
FRONI
Trim t:-A('t\\, U,r( LItlln Sl1ouldcr

fiQVIO
Agur&2(AddeO~onoOG-tro;.,.
lnlOfOCt)
C"l from mld..,rrnhulco tn p)ifll X net frnm htl\l
painl m fJO nt X, ~u111n~ patlo:m
to
r>QV!'.Ib
I l / ol
"
I
lrlm
Clo1t" "-3I U<bl1,0\t"ll.lpp1n~cbn Pflint lf.. lnth.

fulftlt'~~ UC.tltd tJ) tht 'PfUd .ltt';l\ nf'\t IU hi11U
C'<MfiJM:n utt\ fl'lf .tny

MMla p.
""'"<If m"""''uttrTWfll du tu
rRONI
( ut tUNln lnJ; 11\h linn er,, n,tthmup:h "''"'

I'JIIet. Ufl P..l\t't .lnd ' lft..d ,.Mh ~J.nh i.'4 Inc II
lt~tc- I~Utrn '\ CMnhn.,. ,.,,,,
tk-nl
l) riiW lt'<llllJi nt ollld (h!Ylj)l!11 fnf 11'\IIIIIJ\1111, ho1
We b.KL JWIIW)
137
AOOE:O fUW*SS
Fullness to lnsels
flgve 2
t.ut111'<' Wind ham ~uern
<-ut \l)h Unn to, 001 ttuou~h. pantm's outlint
ur l)Uol-t prohu c~ ~n teg....
~ptt'~ -.kkod tu\lno-,. &) dnittd.
1r.t<T ant;~ blmd tht'~.ad arta.
Gathers on o $1yle Dart
'""
'!!)
....
t_
139
1.n
,.
'
Design Anoly$1$ O.slgn 2
(f.)thCh fo4k'Wt ltK' f\1~(' o4 H~ IOWI
~00 O.m t'\
t'\.""i'i (~lhtf\ll\ dutcd IU bU\Ilt\d- T~ rtm.linn~
[)ejjgn """"""' [)ejjgn I
~.tt hl.'f'i lndk.&lt' Ont"'\klftl Jdl.k\1 fullnn\
lbt bu")t potnl k 1 1nc.h from lht' 'lll)ClnJI .._,.,..,ton.

Ttk ~tl'wn J.t\" \J.Irtt'd """ ln.m th<r bu\1 h'"1t'
~ ~ fu,IIIW'\il ~~
PoHorn Ptot ond Monlputotlon
2 h for JlfoktM.
F!gvre 1
Ponem PSot ond Mo.ntl)ul<mOn
.,..'
....
......
....
I<P I
lrK~t
from p.ath:rn .trW rN.r.."' ult\~"\1 cbn ltJt

1 1nc.h from bu\.1 p~en1
Sqwn: .1 lu'l~t 1r1m ctntct lfllf\1 t liZ ltw.ht"' Ul\

fr(lfn bu)llt\d 1h.1ot nJWh lll.l'll tp.ln
hom th~ J)Qifll dn"' .a Wr'\t'\1 d.trt lqt In dMt
'
I.Jitcnd \hfiUkkf 1 IJ.IIn h lOll dt-'~'~~

l)t.:tw \.lol~h
nkllnt.
..
md-rmhc)lf' t4 tht \I) It:Iii\("

lift!:\ .tnd tnm m.tdo ll ..rr.. bf lhf'
flgOfe 2
Cut \1)1r .U.rtltHhtftr'l'l hll\1 Pftnl.lndtl.rrw ,...,~
~n. C()flt d.ln
flll fiW't1 lh~t WJI\Ihn. )

Blt nd """1\ttlht fmnh 14 1t~ p..tlo 10
'~nl
I 1/A
"' M-Ill
IliA
( ut \lt\h llrM"\ ' " "'" llu"'lfh, '"''"'!~in

\t~ ud o,~,,h hnt'\ lf.t ,.,,~, ,,.ll
"Vl
Tr~c th1 \< paunn .,,..,. a.tod 111m lllf' nH ~
luw- I tutel \1..-"'kk-r 1 114 tnc h
( AK1!*1t Ilk' rwtlo fh\ , ., .t lnl
ht
A n~t\\' lint
~uing thwugh
1 l/A
Utend
'
OAC<
1 " ,,
1r.'ln hOIIIIMIIt'fll
l)raw lnwt b.1nd I 1/llndn-( wklt.
Or.n.,. thtc~ )l;\'ih Unc'i hmn bu\ttob.md 21nchi."'

\Ill hmn tlntrr hunt Notch.
l)t,)W Olhl'l ~l.&\11 11tn"o ol\ indl~.&t('d
Cui Jl:lttt'fll f1om J't.lptt.
1117
'
JIOinl. ~lld ICJ ltk ~hn..1ldtr I 1 ~ ln(h hom 1\tt..
F!Q1.1H 30 ~ 0
~a... Tr~~.anddn" m-.r~.N.Pd.
l,.\;tt-n.t I11"Kh at nh"' ~-t..
<it~tJit p.ltiCTi'l~. l,hol;t\ (nolnlrnt', Ql.l.l1. no.-t\~

.11n.t 'f'nf*1t tht l"'ttmn fL>r" tf'1 m.
t 40
ChOP'" '
BLOUSON FOUNDATION
A hklt1w.n h .1 bUklw)tUl"'K'<I puntnt with 1n 0\'t r hJin~ nrl'lhtn h om bdow ~ ~bust to the ;ank.Jto. Tht
bkludng h ((MUrolltd t h<'ld In til~ I b) em~ cPI' tht kJe~ln~~ mnhoch
l .1 llin~ cut )hOrltr th.~on th~ lln~\ht'd
fltlt
'
"I
'~
10
ltnltth of~~ ot~tu p~rt tOn~~ lt.
~;il\l 11)(-\l~n
11.
tu:mr.
C.u!n~ ~<<'onunodOlt~ <'l~\tk en drw..tunlt '"'Uhtn tht ~rmtnt'\
\bind, otttMhfd lltttn\ tht !q:UWt Nouw mt'~wnnJ ~' t.h.An tup met\WmM:'ftt ~ ! .
11'1~ IOOu'\CM\ fttu r\dJi tton b ck\~"'Pft1 b\ _,IR( Wnr1h and "'-.:kb \0 lht' pmern wttbm '"fQmr md &1
outll.nt. Ttm '' ~n -'l'fl4btl<M' of rnnc::tpk Z. <ombtntd
m.an~tiDO<Ii :.bt~&n nus
trrinctpk- To0t1trmlnt tht 'mount N kn~tth aOclnJ fOI thtO"ubartl..Jddnrit't'tl'w-~4tsa'td. h,.t:um(lk. for .a I 112--ln<h 0\"t"rtuna:. ~ 4 'nchn to thtunttnlt limr'\h.
llou""" lk'\IJ"\\ I . l. Olnd J Olrt but ' ~ c:umpta ollhb \h k. ~:;D I ~~~1ft.
cludfod h .a tn<'thc-.1 fPIIncrt'a\olnJ lullr\oc'u nntvu Z .uKil.,t pctktt ~
It\
~ ' ~ 0'""?\
'
~Ut'\ biOU\()f\
th
'
~:
L
"",'
AOCEOfUUJESS
142
ChaPter 7
\l,,a\u r ou t 1 llllndu~ Of rnon at fto n l ;aod

b.n r.. ,kl~ ~nh Oraw Uuc. I rom hem co .llm h~l~.
ltliUK' ddf' cbn of front, (okl d.ut and d raw hot'
lu'nl ttfm IC) oumhok (~'t' 1).1~~ 10).
{ (ntf'l<'tt' lt.lll\'rn for tt1t fit
Blouson with lncreoseo Fullne~;S

Pa ttern Plot ond Monlpuknton
Flgu<es 1 end 2
fiQUIM 3 onc1 4
<.:ut ""~h l1nn to, not th.rou!'h. a.rmhok lfronn
.:.nd pi\'Ota1 point ttc:k.
h(HII am,l b ad. ~ltcfm h)(tude th~ t<:L

' ""llf>llllll bai.Jntt llnl.' Ut 811 ,,,~ tn prtff'rrt\1
k-nttth.
Ora\\' \l.lih linn from hem I and tuc:L "'.lht to .ap.
f tokt'
Pf01ihnalcl) t Inch"' up hom .arn\heltt <Uf\"t'

{figure n.
l )t.lw \Y)h lint' hOfn d,rt point\ nf W.ll\1 .and
\hOuldcr d.art' 10 to~~nlnx potnt ;u tho!:~\ HBl
HI""''" Zl
'VJW I
143
now:._.. \houk1tf doln.

MX\" pltttmS on papec nd \Pft'~ '~ ste:ttnn\
I l 1l lnchn tn!W$1. ~~nun .aDd~ ~
\dd 1 1.1\(h ~~ 1M \icX w...m of We\. pattttn to
ba.b.nu tbt- full~ ~ttn bk. .and frorl.L
,\dd dn&.r-N ~ ttumpllt ! 1nchts btb.
"ll\t for 1-U'ICh 0\ ~ I.
{~~ p;lttml lor tt5t fit.
........
fii()Nl
.......
;
"
..
..
.
.. .. .......
~
11/1 f()I')J.t
..
.
.
....
-- ..
~ r~"'----------""
f.gvre 2
7f'.-
~"C\
"" 1),.,"'
pOII'It ;
~'
,,.....,
I
'----
1/
I
........
I
VOI<E$ flAI~S. Pll 1TIJCI<S. AND MAT T\.O(S
145
YOKES FOR BODICE
Yokes, Flanges,
Pin Tucks,
and Pleat Tucks
'f'Ot<U fOir IOOICl
to f-l(lnt _ .. ......_$llolh and~
lalic ltx. ~.-~ond ~
IOc
Vl:.,.,........_.*'eo. Atoll
-.. ~"""Actcled ~'
1t11ro '<'wle ""' lh A<. 1'0'1 Aeol

'tt'.O OttiQt\ ~
fiAHG($
Doll f-11':11"10"
Jtanq~t to WCJIIr
JIICII"QQt ftll~
,.~ ~ \0101'101"11
NAT nJCt<S AN() PIN TVCtcS

AII<Jtlueh
Pin fuclts
...
loiS
loiS
A )'Ill., 1\ IIW " l'l'ttl IWI c~l:a ltollllll nt that (\h tht
\hOukl~r .111<',1 U 1\ JIUathtd hi tht ~.l'HI "."tt)un '"
~ Wolnl that tUil) ll'fiC'.II lll\ hhrtttml<ll '" \t)lbotd
lint. A )'t4.<' '')'h lin(' cn btj)laud .tn)~t~'" <11"10'\"t"
I 112'
th~ 1"1\l k"\t'l {loS tMI Ill( 1~), ~lflk'lltllll\t', ;ill, l>l
he-lm\ t l~ \hnukk-r bl~lk"\ I ht p>l1- <111U1uh ~th

tll.t!n oll\".1 IU "'hkh ttl\ .l1ll(ho'l) \\
t'f\. Jlk'Oll\, Ill <I

,J ck'U~I
ft~Uitt', )HMo\ " ' <'It'lUnd Ill\ II 1\11('\ tol ,PI

m(:nh Rtkt to tlw )Ulif' lu~r\Ktkort \\llon ck-\u;nma
\.!tilt\ \'~ \'.liUIH'Il\ Jtc ~h,-n un l\l~ H'J
Design Anolysd ~ I ond 2

lbt ),ll.(< W'f~ lrM.k~ .t hnm )"~" n~ ll tht'
ll!.ki. ll~n lllllu~tr.11n .a ~l-.lC' .lUMhnllo n tn
\triN h1\ J'lltJt .and ""uh-..thn\11'\)# 14'. J$Ur\"' ~.
Or l~i_c:n
I. H~m"" U.
l.t
17
1<1$
1. .
Oe1
~2
140
140
(utMld~lc~:t.nn~
<ut ~ l&nr\ k), ncot ttl~ tv-.1 r- -!.:It

llow u.k din~ Uip.. &.:tun: p.rt~
15()
I~
154
IM
IM
lkn.J ~~ ~..~....
Ot.n\ ,::t.ainhn.al ~rktc ~:l(m b
.157
Basic Front Voke-Stosn Ol)d Spread

PoMom Plot and Monlpu1ollon
FlgU<O I
ll.~t, I UIIII l"tdllll I'IU\'111
\()Ual\' " lh tt' ~ II~ '"' hn ''',"" lhm

110111 tl\'$. hl ,unthth ( \.\lin\
~"""
Uh\1\ \l,l\h l!tln lu~o~n hu\t l"''llll M "'"''lot "I\
J"'"
,ll!d \\ilh t\ 111\"J lllttU olfhllh!o!U "'"'. ,l.\tl hl '"''''

lliltllll \I .nit. tt<~t hl' ,\I 11<\HI
I \It !Iii 1"1 llh 1 ltotl\1 1 Ino h h'f
,,,.,h,lt "'"' ~ "'I"'' t If'\\

1..
'"'tl'l\\ ,and hat
\l.llfr. ..,,., ht \loti t:.\tht I \lot\tn-.11 1 'in. tw""\ t'UI

'"'"'" t"'lh ,.,,, , .. ol.t~h hrte' .-1 ' ' \, ""' d.ltl "-l:'
.u t\.1111
> '
tr\t til
VO!f.E$ flANGES. PIN IUC'II.S, AJ..IO PlEAt TUCICS
BasiC Bock Yoke-PtvotOI

ond Tronsfer
8.Jci. \ ,-,lt'\ ;nt dc\'C'klfltd "lthout " ' hnuldtr l,i.Ht
a'\~ from the' b.KL ~rt ~~ u~nUnt\'\l t<t tht' mi\1
1
,~holt. " hfff' 11 n\1\ rtm~m t~'~rll pr1 \JII:.htht '''
""" bt: d .mJn.attd Jt ht \'t'llkllfK' llf tht' mh..lt'
L'"' rtus tntthc:'Ci ro dt\rk'ft JNIIh'fl'l\ '"" lll:,.!..;m!
J .-.nd ..
Pottem Plol
ond---
~ lint ,,.. thr mtlt'f blcL h) tbc' nud~

MmhOit
.-s .1 p-nt Out n w"-fo..JW'th ,,. dw
0
Boc k Yoke with Inver led Box Pleol
FIQU'O 2
..
l'lllct' l ht' f MIItff II f"'1J)t' f w ith 0t f'ltl\h j:lifl

throu~tl lhof' j'lh'(IC ..I fKIIIII
\ t..rL yol clhlt' o u thr ,,.,,.., .ll f)Oin h ,\ ~nd n .
h.l the' p.lltC'Itl trom \ to clan kg C .11ml m:ut:
'
""'
A A
(W
tf tbr- H.. k on thr "'!fl..lntr;
tn'lttr bid ltn'C'h
Jtft'ffl. uw thK llnoc
OrJ'a .1 ltM from tht d.al1 po~~nt ro t.ht- 'o~ tlnr

for UW Mlhl' ~~ polftl l...abfi \ J C. 0
lr.')ff~bof"~
I r .l (\' b ad, f\ollhr n f11" 11 yn~U nt" 1.\1\) to Wiiht

M a rlr.Jih ~ tt<al {lfllfU liUi rtfllfJH.' f).J II tm
dart lt'.C l\hadt-d rc.o~ l.
'9''"!
r~gu<o 6
-....
r.::-----~
f<m
l>lilw )'C'I..ttlnt hCim .\I n t1

\if'ii\Uft' t1hwn fllNIIIItu t'tfUII I , K hot''t' Htr;tllt' 41,
u im
c ...0
T-
"""'
,"
\dd llndk"\ to t ht' "'kJt h uf tht tl.kl p~unn
' ' '- r1ott:h t'\ tn tndlc.ttt htki t>f lht
IC't t~ 1.. .and .11 I I f"Z
h~ ht'l-
'*"''
\~
t1;1\o
( ul 11111 fnW ()(' .11Ckt,
M'.l lll oi l (t" ll h't ll.okl.
I._.
'
Bock Yol<e With A dded
OAC<
..,
Fullness/ Gathers
.,.. "=" ::0 ~
""""""'*'
"""""'
Plol and
~ . -.~'>~ Go-erl
Tra~
-..rtf hlr.J,. M'Ct nn ,-.,~ t tuUn Nu,
) or l'I!ILU tfldiD M V-'!::wt\. :lilt nttJS b:al tbe

...._... 4ut br'oo. II:'JI bnt\ D ~ l;aiO ~
1<->tl.hil~umplir. A.tolno~$W ..-. . .
\ l .... T'll.'lfdw'i kx :t~bc!'....., tof ttnllrt - ~

~ . . ~ . . . - oftbod. .............. ._-.Ill
u.. ... tpD4 ~--tor Ullllrr>
Ill---..
--
fogu<O 3
I"IHt p.ancm 'iol thJ t d~rt k.,r. 0 touch t.') Cr())"Y
mJrlr. un JMf'l':r
h .rc:c- f\'lt\l ln1 n~; p.allrrn from daft l<'g 0 to R on
JMittrn M.lllr. ),lwfhH: I) ;u\\1 1.-bt>l orrmholt fRc.moH: p.'lll-..rn.
'
- ---~_.
f><;, ...,. 3
CrowTI(K~
f"J-1 " A
llt\lt lnor ''"IW1 1rnt A''' a t 1ht di '""" f t,.
' "~ "fl ( .tfld fl 11 ~'""'"' fll ~ d.n t ' ("" tlto "''"',.....
ooslgn Anolysll DollQn 3

1 \111m'' h j:.tlh' ""' .,.' fi n\ lh' ll..l l., "'t' .~tl' '~
t
1u , 1, , 1 ' ' " ' , 10\_..1 Ill I\' '' h r h 11111 n" he'll" \: '' ' n ""
JUK'I' l .tt. 1h:tlll' I ' I ""' I ..
rut lro ""' l!I'Uit\, ~.._..p l-4 7
'
YOI<ES. fl.AI.aGES. PIN lUCKS. AHl PLEAT l\JCKS
Bock Yoke w1th ActiOn Pleat

Poflern Plot ond Manipulation
FLANGES
"""'"'
149
Dart Flange
.,.,...,
t~.l
',j..~ v
.,.
Figv'e 1
{_roiWlaJl,B:! lf'l.itKPk'\tl~'ll \tUJic"\1
..-
\&art..() J i.rdll'\ fmm (._ lUll ';m

I>UI"' hnt fwm 8 I<' ll
Cu1 ~~ &itw' twm I tl 1'1<111 thwu'(t... 0 t,.l""',.,!
~ -
1 lrM:hf\ for pt<lltlnut.c- 1\lUJirod ~1(".11

\lad. ~lhn c;onuol nt'l{diiM 1 tfkh towt ff(llln
~.ktl Ndt o1 tht dart ~ 11~n h tndK.atrd b\
bn'll.fn kn<".l
,.,._,
~--_..;......._:
12
n.an~:~ h p~M<'d .at "houkkt np. uunx ttw wn

ncn' tou""''t tlwctfnt<~ l~ltn 1 rtw IUI~n.n
1M
p.a.n"'~~
Ponotn Aol anct Monlpulollon

f-e 1 fiOOQO P1001
Ofllgn Analysis: OG$1gn 4
"'-'"lf'
'
fokkcJ ,a\ .a pk.at lJt.jC:Uft" It (Jf \tltthfd
tn~~:ur~ 21.n .t tud.-d.ut Yohc'n W1trolln1J fuiiMn-
~~
l:>t-\l.gu <1 ft.ttur(''
I>I('Jt) tht an. pl;~(t(l
2 1/Z lnthn In h om tht ;umh~~ at the yol..,.-tinf'. To
\1'-"\('klf' thoc )'t:llC'IIIiC, 1\!ltr tO IIUU\I'CIIOtU gi\'~n on
Jlo.l~ 146, ~~UU.'\ I , 2, l, and <1.
fr" tl~ front hodK\' p.nttrn. 11.1mfnrlr-g ~n

to ~houlckr tip.
ll)ld fl.lrlJtt' with ln\-idi: fold ltw<.lld rUff lttifU_
f9J"! 2
Marl. nmlhl"\ ;U \',ldl d~rt kg Of hJU lht width

of th" d an ht')'OIKI lhC' notth, whtf\' thC' fold
end~ CWl (kl4 lllattmtntl
. ,,u.. dAM k-;.'\ .tnd
Yoke Desogn Vanaflons

Tht)uLt deiiAA , .. nJiilfh Jl't (K';)c.lkt' pr.ohkm\ fh~ \'nt r.iltd p.utcrm Jlt' ~Oftt.'<"l If llu.,. rl'3ult In exact r('pr~tauom olt'.kh ck
It"-
Ooslgn Motysls Ooilgn 1
''
TnmUrt:'\\,.llbanll~~(.'l!danlir't
S-li1c:h 111\rJt ~olrM t~ht:t kold dan It'\!'- 1,-,.

!>tlt~h 1 U'k:h l"n tfM'I told. 4 ~ .Jo.Mn m 4an
let:' em ~ht 'i..k ,-.s ~rmmt
____.,
1f :
fRONI
..
....
.
'
~n ~ Jl,hn.
)tr:.lunt' c..w.S.
,,...l .. ,
ri()urn 1
IIOnQO \
rw~ Tt.(}.lf11'1r.r:
'
l>
f911'.S 3 01"0 4
( U1 \ l.,"h lim" IIIMII A IO,
n~
H\mUJ:h, 8
1~""~ em JliiJ)t:' and \l"<"'tl A \ h~eh,.,. fot 1 1/Z...n<'h"'ic.k: n~~;t: hh.s.td artJJ_
li.K(' J),UlC"In.
llf<~W .ill \1r111~1u
Unco ""-llt\o,uptn 'I*~ A

\larli'IUil<h .tnd thdl"\ 1 lnthn dcw.n hi'Jm untt-r .nd I ~ IIKh 1n ftJCD .,t.Jtthhnt for Wtdllfl& ~
ll"ull(h hok'\ (..illu'o(' ~m.illkt In 1t)t: fai'IIK l"un<h hook pl,kTmm1 rtqw.rcd b tm r,d'Jt WSt 01 tbt ~rmmt
\ tW'IUid IM' nwuW \lltlh (han du\1 c" ~nc:1J t
I 'tt'nd I in<h al (~l tf hHnt ftlf bvttf"" .illnd buWn.hokt. \f'lr Ch.aptn 11,l>r.t,., l(r.illmllnh .-nd uMnpk1t kM tt"l ht
....,.,
---"""~
*"
nn~..-rnn
~ I """1
.......
. rna tr ICIC
.and
Pll1trm
tht
\booldn dan t 1 the ~
\tart. \ 1 UKh from front .lnd
~kirr up
,I
'*"
,....,.. l l _,..., ll"' ttvftl \idr ......c
.'
'
..c,
~ \UI.h llnr t,.. 'tJI tu1 ~ pl.tc.c-rtk'nt

(_utfnnnt h;JII'I P'ptt
~
~
f.gure 2
A
.,
........
.....
. ..
.
Ga1h011'
fJ!ONT
j
l
l,
;'
v
.........
Y()I(ES, FLANGES, PW-1 lUCKS, ANO Pl.EAllUCK$

FIQufos.) onc1 d
Flange Inset
Do>lgn Anolylls: DosJOn 3
, -- 1 NNU.od ~ inS('nln a:
" n.1~(! 1
~
tkm c-4 f.tbrlt into tht> IIO(liff
"''
;1
'h.)r!('tl
lq.rHAongo
C UI .-Ill.! \ti'WIM I\' JYit<rn J'>Ut\

l)l;lW J:r:tlntlnt.'\, a\ ~~~~)wn,
Draw '-mi<'at llnt on th~ ~Pt cqu'l to hont

.1nd tN.c:l fbn~ ltn.gth.
C\lng AB ~wrtmmt or front bod~. nou.

tNt\: mou.ldtr.IJp kntion 1~1 8). Fold JN'pc'l
Squatt OOl hom (old .ll 8 tqvoal to dn.irtd fta~t
"idth 4t\ampk:. l md"bl .tnd connect to R.t.ngor
pu!ntl .\ uwn..t hont .and tMd.A- 8 mt21\II'Unmt\.
~ ~n. \Urt nou:hts b horn met hxl.
<:ompktt ~ncm b tt:R fit.
--2
"'""'"- ond ~ion
IIACl
'*'"'
......
Trxr trent .and bkL J'll-ltftn~
~wt. A I tnd1 hem '"'"' .and ~ din ~ "'

..-..ril\l.ul; 1 1 2 md'lln frn111 lrtWU .trW twL 1-tk.._.l
I--
I
dtT tips.
On" Jbsh bnt tO rontl('(t ' .and

,~ , 10 1 ~m,cth kv uocn .and bad. tt..ftl;f
----~-:
~ um~.,... bkno,tr~ t} ,&,1-h linn II
\llrt ptbtt tontz61 f)l:'(~hn '' front Oli'KJ b.KL
"'-..a.J\t 2 \nlchn, '"""' <mt<f rt.n'I"\..Utcnd Cft\ttf Ncl I 1r..h '"' do~uf"t
I.
!~~~;
Tnm ~~ .lfN o .tnnhok
,9-'.,
Rgu< '
on~--..,
on
lrwn ond blencl
fRONl
...
1S3
....
...
.
..
,l
ffOIII
\
I
M.Y;"~f'#'
VOI<!S. FWIGES. '"" 1VC1<S. ANO P\EAIIUCI<S
ISS
PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TUCKS

A 1u<l. h ~ \ IIU llt'\1 iOkl o n t lw riKIIl \iliC' of the fabn~:. 1(1('mblirt.R .t pkaL Tuc:b ustd M a dtstg.n dtUI1 N'\
1~ l~at-C'\1 on ;lll)' ~rmc-nt U011, \l..ht. drn\. 'k"t'lot'). JN:nU, and 'tO ont fUI.'b an~~ in an\' dlrtnicln
(\Crlk.OII, hofti'Ontal, ~nd dl.a~on.th. lut~ "''' bt t-t an) - ll.hh lf1mlhtd to a l'lld\h of 1i16 uxh to 1 in<h 01
nl(N"t} 01nd \l~'\1 do\t' 011 f;\1 il j"li&U few 'U)in~ tHe\- h '" tn~ Optn\l\"1' lor a ~nu.factiHU to tu'-r tucbn~
dCMlC' ll) 01 trim houM! llu.n to
II \UU.:t\C."\1 in the IKton lud) can bt nottd tn ~'0 mt\hoc.h: t~ Nnnlnt; \di\J of fal wk un bt tU~.\td ..,~ thm rut Inti) andkWu.tl pannn ptteti. Of <\It p~nll"tn ~Qn brW"nt
tO 01 trun IW'IU~ fur lndh kJWil tut\.,tr~Jt III.J"'o("tf, tu IN t\M,'l.. ~~and the' "loot"' of lht ~ btiott'
produC1!Jorl, <w to lk\ dor lndh ldu..l Jt.am'lmt' uw: ttw ~~ \nSU\tlnl!OM lhlt f~ Fcwsm.tn.JaW)a\ on
bultClon'-/tmtttmht~ a1ld f.kln~\, ~ ( Np!n 10..
,.,_,t'
""""" I
Pleat Tucks
Pot'lem Plot Qnd MoiMp*'bon
O.ogn'
Tht mnW ~
""'doptt.t tlld.5; ~ nac
ln'~~mdi~~thtpman. Tbtp.rtttn tl plautd b tud. ~~a~ b ..ar\.tbt pllltrm plpC"'IX tJbnc tn ~:; tbr
lnf:
~turuond_......._
"9n' ._.:..co~
r Qtt lloc1 pa:attn

a h~Y h tht tnf"''\KKI l "' Lndl tl'OC'll tM
()q-,.
cmt traat_
()riA lbt Nd.
,......_It:l .a ln.:b
~ ~.,.,1\1 bont
OQw t.bf ~ ~ndrbnr l iod\ &rom llw f1t\t
brw.
Deiign 3
'
Oolgn AnolvJs: Ooslgn I
I
I
J'
ll\'1f~n liCJ IIII(\ p1~~11 Ill<\..\ h o m IU,'l hIll

WJI\I \\1 llllht \Ill\ hl hl\' OI 11IW lm),. llh.,.l
in~ (c11ll liru ll Uu.' lli\'U'tlll\~ hu). I \tt.'ll
\l(l rh JIUI\ h i\' lur ll\IIIUI\\ ,uld huthlnhll\~
\ IC1\\II l~.
VOKtS. >IANGI;S.PW lUCKS. AND P\At 1\JCICS

156
COOO'tll' 8
Pin Tucks
IS7
Po"om Plot ooo Moni~~tion

f?Jr 1 Aottng iueit Plocemern ond lntd(e
rueu
AgtA 2 Ar:>ttii'IQ
01 l/2oftch Wd lh
Jndugn~ TucL pl111nf'IU ,lnd h ll.t' h tk"\C"IOJX'tl
1rkl" ~tl(rn and draw btb i t)'lt'lil\t.

Cut from p.aptt a.nd '<qllhte ~tttnu.
na ,., ftm lint 1/161nch In from t~(mter front
~.!fS.tnth 1f*C~ on fokh . J.')Rw WditiOnal Jlllnlro lines ~ 1 U'IC:h ~part.
1'-'f'C" r ;m t'rn
Orot" .tllnt 1 111Chb hom lhC" p~(IM\ ro~
\UJI..Ihf' ~~~.idth ot lilt' flnt tud, ou 1 imh
(In a
\lark "f''<"C" 1/! l.nch

\l.arl.)((fttid lud,ott ltncb
JttpNt thor pro<f'U fnr ~h otddthOnll tud.
'*
.,....,
f9-<e3
raad tucb on tlw ~ n(ht\lldtUP.

ftatt tht' pactttn on f'I-J'IC" ~tJ'llftJ: IUCL1. "llh
....
~~
Trxt tht' p~tttm.
"
I I
f9.<0 4
( ut tht pilllttm and unfold.
\larL .and notC"h ('.l(h h Kk and ct'nlt r hont.
f !QU'e "
fl'ttOI tuckS
1\
Ooslgn Anolysls: Design 2

0...>1.lgn Z (c.atul~\ J'l4n hl('lo.) In~ bib"''"' l)in tu( lo.1.
;u \' 1>l:.~~d will\ 'I\JC'1.' hct"(\'U th~m ,
flgure 2
l)taw fout \(!h nf p.u.lld lhtt'' t /8 lm_h \\ldl .
fm 11"~ tud;. lntlllo.~ ,lml 'lhl'<l 1/4 ln<h !Mtt

l)r.tw lh< fl r, t tu(l: lint aJ)JUtl~hnuu~ l)' h lndw1.
FIQI.tes 3 ()r.:l6
k1old f\ll'ln "~ ~:.a ~ ,..,
tht hkl.. h'IIJ.,_Jii'M! t~""<' 1F1.,~ .~.
Cu1 And untotd. F..\JJ t"rrt ~ uacc: ~~,,. ,,.htc
,j,k h,cu~ -4 ~~~ !holoC\'Wtl("k"fN }'d\
In frmn th~~ IM J Wt~, \'d~~. I hi\ \\11111Unw tOC.m' 10
cutnn thl' foltl (llt w.11 ;11kmJnu~ '-'ill ,IC'IX'Illl \'n

th, n1unbtt u lttk'l:' 11'"''''"'' hu~l-\' nf J J'-U1il,IL'It
tlt,IMnl.
-'
F'Qu!ff: !Jo.b
IM t\ ithl41 ~lyn \b'fl 1 1oM ' ~'""''"' ftlfc , .. ,11...,
,,..n ou r.,.lw'
'tot.!~
t uc h w11h (ltn1. ,. 1 ,., t...,

,.,1
1
fhJ t~hll.m
'
lf.t..l liM 1 1" 11 ll<J \hlrh II~ 1111 , ,
111 , h ,,,
'~""'~
..
~~ ....._~
....
\__,
'
~j
"-{:1
~~
CONlOIJIONG
1~
CONTOURING: PRINCIPLE #3
Contouring
(Principle #3)
COHt~
I'II'NCIP\1
ll
C......Ooog-.
19" ..........
f"'""~
GO'~
THl CONfOUt GUOf. MOlRNS

~f'IQ ... Cot'tJour &.toe ~err.
~...,. Olofhol !he Holow N005
ond Chart lhl PIQIemJ
GUcM6ne 1-C~oot NK~

~2-cutouth~
GUdotlne l-AimhOte Ease

~4-(tror~
~ ~ContOUI&elween the llu$1$
~6-$1!()C)IeM DePQns
~ Slor>t and Ski& Ease

~7-8oc;k
How 10 tho tht ContOUt GUoe Pottefnt

IH( CLASSIC EMPIRE
[tT'IP"O W!rl'l Shiri'Od Modrll
Sll!fiUC( (Oit WII:A.P) DESIGNS
Pott01n tof toll Sldo
PottQfn lof mQht Side
OfFo&f.OUI.D(It OESIGNS
Goll'llltrOd~l
HMI(P$
V t k I"Mf'>f
"''
100
161
161
162
162
162
16.1
IM
164
164
16$
16$
("oroU.a.n To ltttht UNl"f t,W"o(''d;...ct 1h.:mdo.'t' the'

N\i< ~~ lh( ~J~o:lmr 01 the ~~.:m ,.. utmmt.-,1
166
t\'t hi
"''
'171
\C'.uft
173
.174
.174
115
'175
.117
In
Contour Designs
(:ontom d\,lgll' IOIIO\\ th~ !IUUUI Ol thr tl(ll.h

t.lth{'r th1m h rh l,ttlnll, th~ twllow .HN' ,lJll4.1ml thl.
bul .lUll 'lwuhl(t h iJ<I('\ C1UU1~-~~ dtI~U\ 11\-l.hkk'
th~ l'IUtlht \ l)'ltlllh' {tl\llhtutlll~ \U)d~ I It)~.' hUII
\\,~lllutlfh~
.u
"...C
and uncl\'r tlw hu,u, ,an,l '""'''' .llnuhol1,-...m,l '~' ~

lhU."\
the' ~ N tht ..ta,'UUrf .m4 tht. ilk
t;)~ 1.. dJmtnOI!o.'d.
\ l lillltt"' ' "' hljl

'"'' "''''''' "''''
thm\ I M'I"\~'11 lh\' hii\U, 'lllt'lll\(' tnr\I(IUIII~
I
&
1. .
1. .
(H)Ilh~Uhl~ .dtc1\\' lilt'
I"""
h, ,1\lt\t
111111~
J'ln'll'lk"ftl"' f'IU'm ,k'\1!'1<""""' 1'\-.r .,~\h'l.ll ~n
.'II\'~"'' c.'tl l"nt'k."tf'k 't, ("._"C'Il\'._,f'ln..;
,.,,..t tt"'n"~'l
Lin ltlltl'l$ l'"lll('ffl.. ''''U! If ,.qu~m.tlt' .m '""

m...,k "'
,..,.1(' "'- ttw: ~~"""...... hc.tY~n th
{'-'tll.'m ,an,11hf "'h-.. .1tmrt1v.."W1..._ 1"ht ''"",_'11'1;.
IOt\wnutt..ll'l ,k-a I" 1 t!h the' tno.'tho.,h I "'-' h" ''~--ul11
'1.'('111 httl(\1.: J""'l'k~ thn:ush the u~ 'I tho C'('ln.ul-
,.,....,..1'
aN\'' (11\t<"~l \ ..,,.. r.at~"
f~gurt,'
St-.,,..(J,,
C-ltl\\lli!ll ~
00>10"
""""''''
lht {t,l\\lC
flllltt'\\
INTRODUCTION
11\~
th.tt ,,.,., .,1tlht lumt
tl~oW' IIIII
UU" rnrt thol' lttl\1 .l !W III<J\ol" tht dct II IC \I~ It UUC"'
\1\k-hl't\"' llltnh
d.t\>IUUUtlft\
,j 1o(1,1t....t 1ft tilt' ,h,JlfO ..It thlo_,. I 110\\lfi,C It\ I I th.-
t'otl 'f'l.wtn ~ 11ll1 I<"(\ t~tdt ''l h v .ull\ ''' Itt ttl<!'\
ttw.r .ttNOftt dJtt C\lC'\l \IUI)!IU \lllfhlinl.. Htl!rllf
tho. 111 of 1tw vnW'nt r..J
t~>IIN .J.,,, "ff'm'
....... .n di"""..-.J 11'1 thor (UIJUIIJiry ,,.. I'WM lj.JI
Ibn \t.o~mpulluun It~ '"'ilu"lu.nt ''"'1 1111.t lhr
CMfllr"' rf"ft'Woln thr vtl't: c-t n thov.~:tllhC' ~Uj!ll'"l
~ tlw ~Urlft f'k'lil"\ tu1~
n ,h,r~>'t'd thr.,.th
' C"
*'"
fll,lon......IIOR.
"~-~,.., '"'"" 11( t<U'\f ,... ..... .Jit'
, .. .,. """
...,-n.aktlh lhC'....,.. drW~~:n ,,.,.,.wm 1M' h..af,.

lM h ~C" .tn1J , ..(11'" lhr lloUrn-ncC'
lk'f,.(('ll dw nu ~'kit.-. t\l"" fur I~ tnc tmHiil
,.,. "1'""'"'*
Uton'L WC' Ch.aJ"t'f Ito C)tfvr dl-1ttn
UtUIIOfJ\ lit
11111hhuuk.l t 1l;nt "' 1114 h;~el
d.tll .... (Oftllfl
( Ul nd
'""\ldt~l
Potlom AOI ond MonlpuiOtion

f9JI'j 1 ,~ t
lr.n hunt rr4 lftM.f.arl 1"'"'.. "
aoo.
llfiiiW \t\k-hrk hurn mid"""'kk.. lin lint ~th

t\10.1. ~,.oukttt d ..ull "' t""t prmll .1nd frc.rn bu')l
7.
llnll 11 cUnlo K.al --..at~

rld llf"tiW. hu\.1
P'"'"
3/4
2 II'Khn
'v-'" '
Ia '"ON'
fJI()HI
~
.,. I
f~QVo
rwe !I "--dr'oo /o.OY...J;.;nt:l ;- ":88

lll:'oclopnt *'- :rl:' fr.JCD .1 ~ p:atttmtA" If
snopng St..,. .,.
ftdJoiU' 1'itLI: fmiii (Uil\'1.
mort' t.I-W h ~ .&eh tram tiW: pd:r. 10 \idr

v.un .nd ~ I -4 lncb o; :uurr Rdi.IR
\h.)jll hu"
Mend, ln..l \tui~ '
\till
...
iUt'\-t, ,t\
mi~lll oll
hrwn flltUiu:ll lint'' Jtfl'lt
'I
.:~ .I
hl""-' uf p.1nt1.1
Lr
jI
'," ..... ~din~ ipt flhhf'ffl"tde\C'..t'o!"l"'
"''"'' ,..
w .. rn, .1n .-.11-nl .n
r,--
untht "'" '"' t~oM.&.tl ft.ll!('fn rlhc.I\\Ood.ltt Jl:tl
ill J:Ut<k for JIIU\lriJr~" 1"'1' f'UIP' 1.!\'
tlwou,)\. fl"Jtf'l\ X
1\111 I\ iiiU\Irtt'-' t lht: Jllllf \..k,u- U IIIU\IIoJI~ m
frttn.l.ll,.l\t.llrtif 11'1t>rloU1Jp.iltrnl 111\.ap!>Jot.d.ar
c .ut W'h hrw h"m ~\l prlllt illlll.l ~n p~u\t tc
"'"" -'~h llr14. lmm buiiiWJUU 10 d.lrt purnt ~

\kJ. d.ltt
\.hfwJid t~~~: tk'""1!C"'I ""'I fltl
b.aW tur nthC'r.S."'I,tn '""''101~
J"l''' lS,.,.,b-11'fr3"A
flU\
\(1'.tlolh ,-..u~ f ll oii~II!.K \t)'lotIIIIC<
' ''
''""itkln Hi \Lart
flllfnl l,)ll Ul' lH ln!fllff\t' \l)'killll.'l \1) kiirlt'\ ltfl

t'f\.11\Ait fn\1 n jol..tt' tl..lll\ 1 he clt'\ol~fl (~fl ht IU'\t-d
.IIMJ\t
CLASSIC PRINCESS
STYLEUNE
P''""'"
.mel!~ I. nahl
P..Jih>lh
IIH h hfll hmt (JIIIIH tnt"" ttvrJ1
flhhUJ.I..tllll X
111"1 fAt! !IIJ~I Jlfllll\ .. ml \htKtl<hf hi~ ollld ('0\h
C fiii'IIIU.UI. h f'..\C (llf1fll,. r\CPlthC"1o.
d~uf'd rhr "'''"""tth I ' '
Tho li.Wo
h tiJ\tiiiJ.:,Uhh('d I)' "' \t)~III W
''"
..., ...
"""I
Ill Or ..
~..,.....
(9-Jre Q Comt--'>lt\loil'<l ~'Ottt\ofn
ry.nt (I~ fl(lt'l~ F\lrWI ~~

1
lu -h.it" rnnt f'll'l<'l ~ ..... ,~ud '11 IPI t>f
"''"' J'lnci IYIJoh hlnj; "J.Io.C ,)lloll'lllt t"-'"'"
ft.ln: 'i\k j\Jtld ~VI\;" tt lr.,nl J"'lwl fhWII t.,)l\4
'" ~-u.- Nrn.t lnI.C'ft lur ''J"C''.,.:nl' u~uul

Wf"' 1 'C tnU I"'"" t ..n.IJlllh'fft Ur)lktnuth I
-Wt"-\1
t~ ' ' " ' " ' " fl<'lfhil" "" ~>Jr In 'fit t"'nrl
toohtfl; ,.,.,...,,( ~
-
--
1'-Jitt'fl"l\
,IQ\.. 1 Bocl. ~
h ,,, c- tt.H I. ,._.mm
I'I;K't l.trl (UI'H' ' " ' tin hPuMtr d.u1 k-,: ,tnd
tu.l'' '"" t"lnt.-rtd \llol:t. rhrJ'tfl."t"\~ lin('.
' hill lt~uli.k f d.Ut 1"-lilll IPiht \l\'kUn\' 010d K'
l.lrt. ' '-''' k~ tllhl.,-n lhl4" lmUC.aU'" c.~in.1l
d .utl
C. fM11f..tlt' l ht 1~11NI\. ,1, \hl"\1\
( nh ' ~r.unllnn t"WI
\ill('
l'-'m I\
( ,, ...\Jn.arl. tl.ulj'l>tllh ,,., U\ klint
I l..c
~I
I -
.-
Ctossk: Princess Stytel1ne Vorlotlons
I ht- h!olkMin~ 1.k~IJIU\ .art' ll.I\C'\1('In th~ tiJ\\k 1mn~ ~1'1tf.l1(' p.ntun~ ttlf ~ ~,,r ~n.t{ c<I'Kt 'l.r'to
,ltkM" ,,,, J)f.lol.tifl l l" tht \l;t\k '""'"''~II
illt" ;an wun.nl )\t.akll1 Ol..t&:"rlor ttw ~'ten\ tht N\k l"lth'tn R~nl\'1111~1, \h _.\, ..tvkilt)\"\ ,,., th\' 1"-~tl~.:rnC''.Klh ,., thro Jf\"M '"' tl'w de' .::n 1hr frnr-J:tni pAl'~
<ih.aJ~'\ \ I\I:M.tld r(\~tlt ln l" 'th.'\1 ~,,,,~t\l.ttkn\''1 ~ h \k\l~n. II lhc\ OOtk'\ lo--. .lt( thor J'!'l"'tlkm .-..1 It' .t..:.a;.n
,,IV
f97v 3
l ut.md 'l('l\oirtl' p.~ t h rn !"f"ft.
hont nd I,.. I. t L&i.'lk f"'loct"\ J'-111< m\ .1rrtum
pk1-t a, wml~" Jew uw .h , ,..,\ me '~ *' -t n
lA( I
SOl MC~
O<oY' I
SNlEIJNES
127
Agute 3 Front
Pottom Plol ond Manipulation
ARMHOLE PRINCESS
STYLEliNE
(\II .lutd "'-1'11oll l.'l~tlt'UI ollt.nJ,I\1' kline
riQVfO I Front
lr.-~C' .aud \lll
front lhltu'm.
nro~w line- trom "';1"t o111d ).idr d.Jrt poinu to bu'"'

<rown.atl.. .Jt lnth hom bu_l;t tiOint. l.abcl X.
I )toll' ,.,,,,,~ru ~ui\kllt'lt' hom bu\t '10i1U to mid
.mnht,lfo. fl\1'\llton ~an 'otf}' alCWlg ~rmhok . )
\lo~rL Jl?llnth up .at mld-pairll of ~kklu\t',
,.,,.,, 'u'''-'' \t)ltllr~ frOtn mKt-armhole- to bust
III(JIIU I "C"nd d.lrt k1:' lr(!o!'n "''-'l'l tO bu~t point.
( 10'\\fni!f..
hkhn abo\'(' r.d ~ bui.t
'9'"'4
poult
f tlf C".a~ ~nlfolnodton
'
..
~
'""""'.,..., .... "" g
trur p.mm1 p;lDtb.. )l.UW'I:;:
oe.;gn Ancfysd
Thf' Mmhnk' rnnu'il \,1\--.,il!ll I) .. UUJIItotl Ul tho~:
d~)~ prn~"'' .anJ f~:.atum
khn<r thJt 'u"'~
fmm thr bust JWWnlm lrnnto~nd thor ~hlKll~r N~
Ill N.;f. 10 ~t-lUI n'IMJ-.lnnhollt. Tbl JMliiJ1 h ~k\~l
(lp:\1 trnm .at't\!lodJin ~ucrn "'ilh ~rt tr,ll\1
.a'"
fnnod tfl mtd.,nnho'k
FIQ<J<O 6 Soc><
C.ut ,tnd '-tJ),U<II\" jl;UI!!m .lltm~ ~lyttllnt.
lo rcmnn d.ut t:<Cf'\\ hnm mldottrnholl',
d"'
th~ dart\ klli:lh .md wtdlh ,tlun,tt ~"kljm: of
.11 .. lUn~ d.lrt '''''''''kl
had. P"ntl tbrukcn Untl .1nd uim t\ttu hom

tlw p.lth'tn,
Flgv<e 2 Boc>
hao-.and cut lud. p.111Un ltmhr ttw \hou~e-r
d.ln ''""-~' w mld-.um~.lt' It ~~>olll he' ,\I)V,thtd
llltO lhC; \l\'kiiiM'
IJf,),\o, lint lln(hft up frolffl d.ul p!IUI rloj \Oo,ll\t

dlft .tnd uu..\mJtl. lor ~!(h.
BAC<
Rtfl':'.\1 \l)'lthnC' lft\lmruum, fl!,._n.: -HId!nt
from cu,..~m.-r~ tn mw1.1tmlt"""
~(l( """' \
I
J
I
1n:m q'\\tltnt ;a.t
.md ~OI.hnt: ~ 2.'1'!'tholr If pltld<. 4n nne

lrut .at mnholt ~ t"f'ft to thf '"'l'tc~
('ltwl ,)t .mnhok To~f!r h.>th ~ )('('Ur'C"~
BkoJ ,mnh(ll( 41in]: '\' ~"'!n- ~ W tr.mmlnK ~~ \Mk tqUllh- ~ ~'0-
"'.t'>t
Sl'II.EUt<U
\C'nltk,m of (.kh dt"'lf:n. II the")' do not, toc.atf' thf!
fll'tlllrlrru .uultl) tS.Jin. W hc-n r'oUh1$ 1hf! ~Utrn. ~
llk'l'lll:ltf that hl14'' ~rt' dJII\n un HK' wCNkir~ PJ!Ut:rn
t \~lh ;a~ thi"V olJ'J'It'" on til('~" l>c\clnp tht (iot\~Jtt~' U\IIIK tht two.dan j'WIII~rn. CAdi'IIOCtd St\ldcnts
"~' '-'Ani I(! \1\ot tht .lltmholf' ('lfirn:m paltMn.l
PANEL STYLELINE
129
Pot101n Ptol olld Meripu\otlon

FIQUfes l ond 2
hc.t '"''" .md batl:. t~~n ~11C'ms .lind all
~ll.l11)1:\
lt.ttt hom and bl. ~nnn-..
l>UIV. \LII'Ioh I~ tO bu'lot pot.n t_
'bt\ rnld..umholot knuon

.,,.,.._ pand u' lie-bon fmm "~.and ('l'ld
l121nth hom hont ~ bat'l. m~tnhrol.t-
.,.,...,,
O.o~~v..&nm~bnttothtJ~
,.,.
L.- .1-...-''"""
__.
VJ\
I
... . u
JolOif ao.;rce
,'"'-..,
~
Design Anolysls
Tlw ,:u1d '') ldlm " 'kmh hom tilt',,,..,, hlmlll

1 of tlW hi1Ut.ln~l h,,( lr. I~"Uu 1\Ul"'~llJ\oi\\
,1rmh(ll('
In~ t iHOliJ:h bl''' Jll.lhU \ 'h\nl ,)de< \IJn tntttnph
thl.' ft>~lld '') li.'llm. 1tw J\lntl '" ltUtl\' ,.m 1111. '.utN
to ( ,,.,,,,. ,,thfr dt'!Jtn'
..
Panel Stylellne Variations
'J>U
WJllttlf
front plllttn .1lnns: \t)ltl.lot

( koM' dirt k:lt~ nn front "'d(o pand 1nd notth at
~ a.-.uunn
c ''"'"" dart k~ on frunt ~ldt ~nd. C.omplortf'
d.ltt kl. ., 'hon"''"
r.g... >
lfl rl,mltwk thor Wit w.am, pl.wr ,,..,. h.nl lind
1\tc~ fl~OI h 1~rht1' &n<1 Ufl'
I nt-nd tht ~mllnt I tit ,1h rtw trntrr of rt"'
SIIJlot"K
\t'-'~ tv.ltrtllt1 ~U 1 ,.e 1nd afl'nhok
U.pk1r p.tum f , k"1t t: r
<~ntrau ~~Utrn' kM tht' d"~"' 111 Ut:41t c>t~r

\iln~UC'III\
U\lnR th"' h~\1'1. l'llttfn
u:rnma.l..tt\ m1) U\1: tht (\lnrl
.......
r.g...~
nu: JlUIUi dMtRI'\\ ;\It' h,N\1 '"' th~ rllrt~l {)1\U,:m
t.fQtc;h
\1.1\~f'W.td p.l
~uc:rn tn dt"tlfop
tlw ~~ \\ hm pii:Jllll'l~. d rw "trMu-... t:uctlv
"thn ppur on tht dhlltn. 1ht r.nu.hltd p.all~rn
\hal'.. \ \ttnUW rnult ln ptrltn rtpcewnl.tllln' 11C

tkh dM.it;n If t~ du nJ'I ~te- ~~ prJblront M\4
U)
u,.t.n.
Added Fullness
(Principle #2)
AOOI:.O fULLNESS
Fullness on the Princess Line
.......,,
ldenhfy1ng Added Fullness

hd/lk'.. l fi"'IRI lht bi'\IC" dltl I\ ~j ",U' lliU"t h'\l lltllk'
lllol\\ Rlln 8U'tdtllm.'\ un pafitr.
< ut thruu~:h ~~~~h linn o,ep;.,r J~tim: p&ll trn'

l'tat~~:tut l""lln ~rh Nl Polpt:t 'o\"11ht:C'nlt"l llnnt
un hld \bhh 1/,f~lnUnt ui1Nolhrn ~~<~ llh 1/,\lwk
IInot- . \pu:.S alUliU ~ U\lnK ~~ riltKJ I 112 1 '" 2: 1
..:I.Jf\1 tullfl('\\ 11 tullrW")"IV\\C'\ thl!lll~ll ' ""' hn~tlh

till "uhh (If ll~..:.tunC'f\1 tlo,:tm II, Mo IIt"ll Iullin"\\ ' '
tlort,tN .t~.1\ trnm Ill!; 00'-111 i,CIAh !I. ~11,1 \\hrfl I t~
,,... '"u'''"' " '
fiQUPm 2. 3
lltl"l fh~hllt'. dl.q:m t.UI IIC" kltnlll itd "' ll.l\ I n,~:
tt.tmw'l11 c:\u1uh t"",.oo
\ l5
~h.Mk'\1 ~un Xot'urc: p.anun p.rt\
thr IlK'"''
of PoiU\'Ift 1.nCJ bttnd ~\1dl!'t

llt'~'~ ~11nlint ;uW t:ornpk1t So. tna l!t
1 IKt touthi"IC"'
l~ll: 11 lulhN'\\tnn rrlt'-11 m tiM toemul jC.llh('n, ('k'.tt' drotp'. ,,.,., 1~ ,,. tbrn '''""...,',,.,I~~~; '"'
IJ'I\ hcJfll\!ftl .lll ur h'RKJil . olf .II <lin .lnt!lt, .mJ ( .trl tlf
dc-\clofk'\t .as ~I ullf'\IVoll tllk-"''kd tultnt'\\
T1w J.ln nu\
"'If ~~ tullnMo\ "ht-n
'11JI,
hrl:"""' ,..._,,
""""'
~ tulJnotool.s IN\ l!rcombmn.l 11th I).art \Unrf'l'bl'" oFnn.;r*' I .and t oll'lto-..nn.c ll'uouj"tk
\1 11 urn~ o'lthh ~I b. iltu\u,u~ Unuv,;lt~IUI
dw k\t 1
nw ~urtnnuLn
dl.-ttfTIIII'" tl'w t\Jl'l' of lull

~ rt\.1 b\ lhr "" the- \L:'fth h ,,-ndrft"\.1
\ \ hm thf' p.anc-rnJ!lollcr n unwtt ,., the '!nlxnc:,
f'ln\
uu~- "~ t .. .a.J.~Iun-~do'l'"''liiW' J'-tllrm
MethOd lot PlothnO me Pottern

to< A d d ! -
Dfllgn Anolysls De$1gn 1
~ rulll'k'\\" f"'unnJ .l\ 11 "'"""" ,,. \ lr.IJI(hl '"''h

bnn dt011"n o~~~.r"' 1hc j\tttlfrn tn thl: \llm.lttn ll1l
ruJtrtn\ ~,.,, tn lh"' ~s:n 1honwnulh "-t:tH
dlutlnJ! lu,rlltl fulln\."\\ llrt'IRn 2 h lor jl(cittk,
frfM"II WJhl 10 \lll\k l bU\1 .UMJ .11 (fo n t \ldt~ ~Jin, hi
c"lh eor oo ,.., .anl[kL \\ h<'n pf~"'""ll U~ ,-..uun.

lhr btgann m olnd tnll o l C'Okh , l,uh hn dt'llit'OI.I o n
"-httt' th~: tullot'\s ~'"' ;md t'nth o n lht d\',!l(n
Thto dirt t"\((')1
tlfh :1l
Pottom Plot and Monlpulotlon

FI(P.lrO I
Jho.o ottx-d l lli O lh t ;kttlo'll
fullnh\
FormuiO IOf Addng Fultnou

l u di.1t'rnunc: l hl oln\IJUtU 4~ .adtlt'd hllh'k\\ dnltt d
$1i\l" tOI\\Id .._.,..u~n l o
ttw IJhrt< 1)- ()4'
llltJU \'ol
IJIII~
.md IOtl'ltl) 'o\Oh n foltmn u''"'~' ' .tnd t h lflun ' lut
N ..:unpli:'J rna} '"--.:1\IIIC' m,,-,. lullnt...\ th,lll h ;llr,)
d~l ~ 'o\UH'fl folbflc.'\ l lnJt .1 1fII'Kh I\'.II\~ A\ ,tn
t'UillJIIf', ;)ckk-d hlllll("n lUI\ C'41Jl:

Ont .lrtd llt tth..U tU!M.~ lliot m ,nutotnl 101 , ' I
u~
~-
,en
mtm 1t 1 1,,. \1. 1

h ..~J .tillS OUt" h.dl Urnn lh( ntU'Moll IJM fll fltt
z,, I f fo \#1
'"''0
'
1~1"111~ tht- mu,urt
n.,. jllillt~.. ,, jt,llht"t\'\1 un ( ol\h \ldi: .,, ~1\'tthrM"
'"""'p)
I \_
, I
I
lt J{\' f1u 111 ,rnd \ldt frUIIII) IhH.t"'' ll.lll('h. ln d udf

Klnllm. I he ,,,,Sit l).rc lr. 1\ nell lllu\Uoll('tl
Dt.lW ~la~h lint'' t~hr h' lhr jo;.llhtl'- lndlc,ll t
Nunth\'1 l,';.'lt h \t"{tinn ,Hid c;ul h tmiiUJIC.'I.
figUre I
~'
Lt
I
'
I
'"'"
.'
AOOEO FUllNESS
Ok'Jpl~ 1
136
Fullness at a Semi- Yoke Above Bust
Added Fullness to o Dottleg
OsJon AnolysiJ
I l7
filgl$') 2
dJn ~ to bu\t point. C lo!oc: ~~ dan

Ullrt In, b \~pt'\1 to rontouJ lhr bu'l.l
( ut ._..u..-rn " ''"' ~ On" -;t.)h lintS..
-\ \'Hn I\ )(III'M' o~I!O'\ t' th<" bmt ot 1)(-)Jgn 2 co ntrols

~lh4." t ho1t ~-ud a! rnllf.~rmhuk". O n.-.oJdotd fullt~\~
h lnd l~olh'\J lk\llt!n I .md 1,lf(' h gl\'~.'n fN PfolC'lkC'.
}&"h
.,_..,
.,,...
th;JJ
Oo>lgn Anotvsls OO>lgn 1
\ n;at)'lt" tht" d,-,,~n ,md pltlt uf HM:
~lti;fft\
P<::ffem Plot and Montpubtlon
~
Tr-c fmont bod
Pattern P1ot ond Manipulation
""
Sqwr~ ln-m nnt.-r Ul:IC\t hl m1d-.1rmhuk
flgl.a'OS IO. b
Renul\rt (l;ut '-'' '('~\ IJWn ~h<'IU itkt
\qUJ!t oil
nu"'
1'101 tht h unt .mtl b.ld. d(")l1!'' ,1\ lnc.Hc.m'<l

him ~M"t\\ R.l cl.-HIIII \ huuldl. r
\!.1\h IJnt I ) d..rt p111\l l.o~bf-1 \

~~J\h J nn In the' dua11r n Julin.""' l4lh
.lnd Wl
pt~tl(ffl
Jrrtl'rl F!"'"l
f9..r 2 (~ fJt'oMI ~ Oo-1 i ~

ln!!Jf!Xf)
Cut from mHI,umh(M '"point X llfld hum b.l\1
fi!()NI
r.gore lo
..
"' lb
1 1/4
JlftUl l l tJ pt~o~m \, "p.u..ttn~ p..llrltl
'""'
( lmo -'o\ <~JUI1.u t cNtfi.IPJitnll!dJr!pllnt ,,.tlnth

~u llnt\\ Ht,Jt t'liiP\ Hit' iprl' J ttJ\ l'lt"J.I lhut
(()frlj)l rwlt-1 f()f
irAt n WINTW'nl dut u,
(r'U 1 )dJ
"'ll'
Cu1 t1 ,.,..,,run~t tl,,h It"''" hl:f thtN~h """'''

l'f.tt c.o i....Sir'f rid 'PftJd r.11 h ~~ ~ .f lnlh
lro~. t , ...u..,,, '"' lit,... nd bknd
Ut.1w Xf.ltl'lhrloll' 40IIlull '""" f(tf 1(11 Itt u\illf lll

"'h&l f ..... Ill
Ut0N1
'
lr,.,
~ /
'
- ~
'
~~
..
,
I'UIIItt'J
I
I t r
,,,
'' I
I 111 ht I lunl hollltl.llh 111

( II' 11~11 lh \ 111. 11"'1 tho..,.llh, t~ll uo '~<otollitw
ttl htl'l l'lthU I''""' thlllt ~\
II '
\ph ~,j .ttlolot'l\ l11lhM 1 "' ~loillthl
>m
II loco 11wll.,, nl
th~
jt ...,, Ho
......
I
OOIIQn Anotv'-' O<o<lgn '
o...on AA<"v '
P,o'llf' I
lh ' "''' I"''"' 1 I hh hout tl~ ~lllllltllt.. lltotn
1, Uh 1 ~ hllh lh1 '''K' tlllh hht I l""lhl ll,ul 1'\

11 '\\ IJI; .. II~ Ull"htn htllu hmt I~\ o I lito to fll Ulllilll
,r.ttltot llltlk .Ill' o>tu \lol ni~Nio!l~111ull11 '\\
lito (J\hol' U ol 11"1 h"\1 .Ito 1\ 1!"111 lito 1"1111 1!11\1
"'"'' ,.,j.t,,l J.- """''' 1'- 1-.;n
t, 1111" tli
Pallorn Ptot ond MOt'IIJ.')\IoiOtlon

1'-t'lttt I
A.""lttOul NOI or'tJ M~.;,l\lputohon

'
h,loo l!tlflltYIIolll AtWI holt olll\tolol.tll
1!,11
Ill! h ln!u '"'''I"""'

......... ,, lith ll\1111 ' ' Uh I ""Ill ' I I Ill Ill\ Ujl
hltlll"'ut lo \ol tlt~lljtoh huol 'I"'"
ltt>nllhl tmttlu-. "ouo .. tolut IIIIo '"''Ill

11111111 .tll!ltnth oh..ul.l.t I 1 11111 h ftnt" th 1l.
I \lot~l ott..ulolot I I ll n1 h ..ttoloh ..1 .to un..o Uu.
f~I\\IIIJIIIIIUIItlft tlthl Aflllh1o.. too tilt \llllltu
''''" d.th Uno
.mol 111111 '"""'' 11 .th 1 ul lloo
n1o Ulli.o
,.. ,.
, .. '" I "'''. IJIO ,. 11\l

lllhltlo 'ftiOtltll_. 1
tllosl!ol "'hl10t tho lhttolt oollllf l ...llrttt
II\ H ,, ......... olttfll ........
hll 11 1!1 olut
k.: Willi J\~ol
ott''""" lltto; lo
't
11 .c thtoouxlt t10111oJ I
I Mh luon I tJII o l( J I
h tho 1.... 1. l'~lh111 l>t1111r . ,. . ''"" 11

lttM t '" 111 ._.""'"kt I I tt1101
l OUotoktf lt""tYIIo Ul h II If I ht
,.,..t
,, ,,~,
htllt 1''' "'"'

l ltom hl\1 l IMnol I 11.' !111 h wli~
t ltt 1 ; '\1,"11 Uttl'\ 1111 ht t\l ll.tttd 'lntll\ \
Ujlhlllll 1111ht lt\111 1\iolh h
,,,,1w
llt,m "' h1,
1ut
' ' '"h lim 11\ httlh .tlt'd
I''"'''" lh'"' 1"'1"''

I ''" I
J<.'""'lt.,,,.,...,.l.,1110l1h.t"'
lo ~It'
otl-c-tluflo.l
t~t1 1.
l\htt1lltmh .tl 1111"1
tuot.
.)1,.,., , ,. nluw
'-l"'''h l'llh n
!llljli\
, 1 n,t 11 , 1ltl.. tho I!Uihtll\ I ~to I ftl
'"'
h '"'
BLOUSON FOUNDATION
A blouv.o I htiM) '''I"P"" prmr 111 .. uh ' " v t1'Nnc m-wt ...,t f~ hdow Ult
blou n:: 1\ tH'Itrul)td thotWtn pl.f<r t,., '" riC th- f!JIIkNTrtl: ~
ltntnlt cut \htlf1c:r I tun th(' lUll'-~ "nrth of 1ht ''~~'l'f ,_, ~
Brh t\\tn W!JUvontfl \Ol,U\1 tl~n 1 t
1l)e. ~ Tht
.m J
(.41\in u:..rnrnndltf\ ~la\hc: tot dtol'lll,ltnl w '~un T'!w ,4ar~' rn:tld
A hlrtd. atlkhtd
ht-",., tht- ~ro1W blol.nt mr~r.n, 11m ttwa bip ~ fDtotit...., l
11M- tl4outon 'uurwl'"'" n ~~""' .OS r'il '"'cth .and wldtb '' ''!at ,.-.!e:lM .. ib ..._,_ aftd It
tl\ t-u11tnt' lllb h .~n prpllc.-110n Ill l"ftnOr*
t....abbwd .- '" m.arMpt\r.:::.. of t!le ~ da..... nra.
tl'ttnaflk It Todrtc-rnllflf tbt '""~Otml of kntth a4Ckd frJf t3r<m.-rh.aiJ1 add~ :.: ~11niffd.. kor
t'Umplt foro~ 1 l'ltr'kh ou-ttun& .W :1 .nc:hn tq rht n.t roz kQrth
fllnu_,.., 011"'tl,&rl\ I 2. and Sah' b..lt kwn.amplnof~lt'Jk Dn~ 1 ~IDI:I&IIotd~ IDdudnl b ~ mrthlldllf ln&J'~''\1"1 fvbl"on'L I lin -.!'K 2 ld J ~ pr.UU ~
z.
~
(/1'-
~~
.,...
~
1 <:. --'""
,.j {
I
I I
\f
- ....
._
T"
\ttliHt" flU I I 112. lndH'\ 01 mort'~~ front a.nd

IM~ ~ \1(.1. \t'otlfl\ l>r.w. lint from h~m tn.llrmhok.
lcllfU~ \Jllc< d.11r1 tid frul\1, fc)Jd d1111 .1nd drn lint'
hntn htl'n tn ,urniH"C' f~ IMCt" 101.
( 4nll~ltlt' Jt)lltnl I(IIIM-1 f1l
Blouson w ith Increased Fullness
figvf9'S 3 Qnd 4
Pattern Plot ooo Monl.pulollon

fiQUf l ond 2
( u1 \lnh hnc1tu. not throo$, .1nnhrlk lfrt>ntl

1n1.1 pwoul point thotc:k.t.
( ~~d.\hnuldc:rdan
Tr.lct lront .lnd hltl.l\lll~rn" lmhtdt' tht' hatl.

homont..l t,lanlt hnt< IIUII. \dd tn rtcf<'U~
~lAth.
Oraw 1ola\h lin~ hu~n hont.lni.l ll.k\.

pro~am11d\
"<I''' tnp
$ lothn up ltf'm rmhul.... Wl't'
HIJ:\Ut I I
llrn. \l.ll\h hnt' h"m d.&rt J'f"iR11 ul ~ht .tnd
\houllllt r d.arh to to-lniiHC pntnt <II thor '-: .. 1181

trl(UI(" 21.
~'latt ~Ut'IO\On ~ptl.llnd "rrt~ tJ.,nh ~tlieO\

1 I i 2 tnc:hc..'\ h.ark'S- \otcu~ patttm .lind lr<'
\dd I !nth .111 tht MISr 'lnm ~ bkk pa11rm to
b.l.anc;'l' I~ tullntS\ ~"'ttn ~L ;and ttOftt
Add dnlt~ kn~ ~ucmplr. 2 me:~ btkJw
~~'' k J-ukh 0\nb\
v.cnp&.. H' J"'1lUn l011 lnl flL
tq.n)
.........
'"''
O.CMO'
...
rn or l/4
D10v1on
~-----
..
.......
r10.----------~J~
'-- !;';.
-'
YOKES FOR BODICE
Yokes, Flanges,
Pin Tucks,
and Pleat Tucks
A )'fll.t" h th\" UJlJitl 1~11 HC
~flf\ol.lll tlut lih th~

It h .uuu; ""' tu tht lo"'1'' 'of\.tWlf1 b\
~ho.dder aH'il
o1
~. ~llln lh-1!1 m ;a;y ~ll't'.lt II\~ hmttoi4'UAII>'I \1\\bt-d

hn('. A )6l (' '-l)'lotllrk' C'll n hC' l~.ltC'd &IIP'htn ~llCJ'\'l'
tht bu u l('\d or em tht" 1'-t(l.ttlltmt"m 1JO\t, ~~ m
bt-10\\ lh(' \IW)l!lckt bladc'1. 11\C' )'(1..\: t\lfUinh ~lh
tn t'llr~t~. ot,. pl.lln ~rt to "hlth It h H.h...,J \\

"OOI~n INt~ut, )C'Ilt'"\ .lit' found em .llll\l!'n fot pr.
m<l\ k<iN IO IlK )'Ok lll\llut1t(ln ""htn dt'I.IK,IUII~
\ltirh. \ol.t nrUtknn .lift' J1\tn em l~n' t -45
-
1
--
Deolgn """lysis. Deolgno 1 and 2

"Tht )'d.,(o ~In inti~ .l ftQnt )'Qli; II~Jtn II. n.
'fOldS JOlt IOCMCt
.I~
ec.ckonf't'~<Fod~
eo.c ~oct~
,..... O"d ~
loc~< ~ .... '1\ n..:'-0 b
Areot:
IO;.b~AcrOtcl~
lg( . .............. ~Ac:ilen~
'lt>o. o..gn \Q_,IO'.

RAHGU
Oo"t ltQrlgrt
r10nge
~o 't\Ott
145
140
l.t7
.....,,
.148
.149
lAO
1ro
152
Aanoe 0.-..gn \tlnQtlonl
154
t56
Pin lye
1$7
F9n2
Cut and wp.r pa:-_.cm ~
C.u1 W\h ftna.IO.IIOI u- ~ ~ ~ p;c:
,,
15$
Pt~torrue--1
0;)
2t Ukl\4roUt'\ .1 )~ .mhN tom ,n,.

\'tr1nl bo\ (lk.n 'fkl\\llh ~thC't\ 11'4~ 1-4'", t;tUrc ~
Of Onf.gn J. I I"Jt\1~ 1.
147
148
llonot ...,..,
Pl{AI fUC U ANO PIN IVCK$
~ Cl~
Ck"W' tkir dar. u.s art ~ pa,~tmtr.
llm&J ~;Ittwf!"d a ( ' 6
Dr" ~~ CJXnJ*"-"""'t- JO~otm trw :nt ftL
._,
Basic Front Yoke- Siasl1 and Spread

Pottorn Plot or\d Montpulollon
flgVf~
h"H' (emil I\HHi,UIJ);IIf\'fll
\ltlllll\' ,, lhw 2 1/.! leh ht \ i.ldt\1\

(emu II\'( lr. 11 atmh~,h (\ .ut~"l
ln~n
"ntn
111.1W ,,.,,h linn 11\Uf\ bu\lf'lll'lnt "''~''- nw I""

o~lh;l wnh n .'l\1\ 1 tnnt .uhllhlo!n tt. obtt h '""''''
~~~111
\l:u). Uh ht a 'hclttll
I \h'Utl I t'llh'l '"''" I "''h ..,. t"tII14H .,.,,hI

hHihtttl'\ 1\.\-.' t h.ll\h I 1~1
\lo~tlr.n'hiHhlf,;.uhtl""''"'lll 'tn.-htJUI
ttk ut \l,hh lu)\ .at,,,\, "'' It k;.
thIH <'.It h
.1!1 II ,Uti
nc~~~ 2
o
l 'l,t' the- l " u"'n on p.iJIIC'f wllh ,, Jnl" h pin
t hf\11111:.11 tJtt j"lt\ '(~<III JIII'Iillt
\filii. \ ~1._dht(' un Ih e paj H.'1 .at j)C)itlh 1\ ;md II.
lt-. \ lltl" JJ.Itl ('tn lrofll \ to d :.rt k"f: C ~IKI tnlld.

dow lf'lt 1\h.t~.ft.d o'Ut'~ l.
~~~
)
AA
j
TOO-
Boc k Yo ke w1th Inverted Box Pleat

r~gcre ~
.... ~.~------~~
Tr.tC~ l~l.. jl.llltrn 11om )Ol.<'lhlt f \81t, vr...1ht

~b r i.Jlhnt it l J16lnl .m\1 ftUIIn\' IIJ i h m
Or;~~w )'C>I.t'tlrttt tmm A In II
\l t:~\UI ~ tlot'lwn frotn llt n t"&l.l~lll\ 1\t'C' ltl!.un -41;
lrirn.
'"'"'''*'
Nr-oll
t lt'I(IK'\ tO iht" \'lldth

~lei
(~l t lk
1\.K\ ~Htm
\t~rl. r~ldM"- to lndk~ t t ft~ '" tht pldt un
tt"l l\Lil lld~ll1/1.inc: I "C"\ ( !.IIOOh*i<wWdJt
'oC'~m ~~ <Tftltf bad.
OAC<
Bock YOke W11h Added

Fullness/Gathers
Porem Plot and ~

F.gv-e ,
'"Oo;O? Go-~
,..t"f ~I.~ a...,...,.: as:.tn ba.o.
Tr~a
J cc m.._,rt ~WI
h~k\.1 d;a_~ ~lf.cn
:-:c' D ~
lllltcvaJ bola ~
'o
;:Mbm,.
kot t~tn. ~ttc.

I h a -r.~ &:Dr
\l.ui, tliOCIChc-l 11..11' :: ~ .me: IIDr <..eatf:'!:
..._
~tt.~dW"" ...... ~ -~-Oft
FIQUto 3
o
1\Wlt t\Hh:m \U tl1.1t d ;,u t kg n touch~ nO\.~

lll<llft. 4111 jl.lj~l
lr.k\' n:m.1h1h~ jl>ll1t r n fu.nttl~rt lt>g 1J IO 8 on

p.ltl\'tn. M.uk yoldlnc R .md l ~bcl armhole ~
R\'lllo\-t p.lll\'111
"
I9Jtf' 3
ULJ
!.-~~}
In~-...~ lir'H llfiAI"(IIfll:
"I 1\
'---~ --
l..t.
('---_.;.,J.--"'1'r
' ''~ ,,,,_... ,,,t ,_..
Design AnOiy$1$' Dolgn 3

lulhl~" ., J:.llhtrt'l ,., h" 1111. ''"' t. ","' 11 1\ , ..._ '
'"'~n I ilrtd tl 'tl'H""' nh ~ t'\U"\\. 1 ' " '""'("''"
~:~"" \nll~m !.. I"'' 141
-~-.....1:.'
,..,...
l
f~e4
" ' " - ...... ._.. .c"'- ... ~ . - .
t
111 tlt'\\'llljl 'tll\llth. h "'' h, "''"'._, ......" ,,, ' 11 l"lll"l
1._,),/.t' I-I! I i~Uh'' I ~ ' .mtl -4
...
FLANGES
BOCk voke wtlh AciiOO Pleat
A fl11n;tt h .m uttndc,n m IMrt ''' IWIItrn th.n

foum .t <nntlnutlfJn ut llw ..,wwm 11 m)' ht plrt
of lhto lolrr J?rnwm or .. ""rt.~~rtt. vt-ln P'"t
\h~llt-d ., .. f.k"\Jrtd .uld 'titht-d In tht t.t)'ldint. \
~n 1'101 and Mo<>ip<Jtallon

(qft
{ f'Ol\\tlUf.
\bf)
fll Jr1.11'1dl'l lttofll ""~'"''
n llnl )'" ,,...n {,,..,. un
fl~n$t('
I I
~n
'
I l''
r
"
fl tgurc. 2t ,n " tlkl.-d..rt "'hffi uanuulltn1t tullnn)
rr.M.t tht lftJnt budttt' p.ttt'tn. uom\ftmn.x d.t.n

tn ;;tw.ultl~l up.
Fokl tl.6n;ct "'llh ln\lck lllkltuw.-rd u~ntu front

\t.ul. nou:ht\ Jt t.K.h d.ut lt-. m hlf ttM. llfklth
of the (Lilt bt)nOO lhC" llnC4.11, "'hcr~ lh< foold
Ooslgn Molylls. Doslgn 4

f)t qJCn I ~t-.. hlrt"\ .1c.Unn J}t "''' ll\.11 ~: pf.d'l~
D-
Doslgn Anolvlb Doslgn 1

Th'l lbln.-;t h pl..-td ,u \hntJlckr up. u"" UW' d&r1
t-un\,, \tt.Jtt Uw c-Uc.-.:1 biiJnl.,-. I rht R.lnrr can
ht ft~~lc,kd ~ ~ I'"'"' flf,;urt' h tlf \tUchfd p.t.nwa~
Ponorn Plot ond MonlpVIOflon

r9"e 1 Flange """"
J
L-.._..
""Y IX' dt'\'dnp.-d nv""ht-n 1unr; lh'l' ~huul
<krllnc. 01 at any IHc..ut~m cA any ~rnll'nt 1hc fclld

of J flank\ pl~<-c.-d 1 Uw \houlduUnt ~fltiiUtd nut tall
"''llhln tht cunc. of tht: ,umhult' lh1' un dtnun thco
fu f1f tht .umhhlt itnd th(' tuol r,f tht Jt.lfll'kn1
f)T"" IIIIC' lr om llt.l H

( .ut l..f1 I Dt" 110111 I to. 1'101 lfnoll.l,tl'l U \pl."ad
J me !WI U.C J'hllflfd.t' t.tLi.jnJ ~IN I
:\~tO ..Ille-r (flrlltnl noldlf'\ I lnd'l oot rwm
rAoh tidf t.A 1M ..s.n. k-1 l~n k tflllutrd t.,
~ lr.ntS..J
Dart Flange
2 liZ In' ht-'lln lmm lht ;umhuh: .tt tht' )'Ol..l'lm~. To

do.,., lt"'J ltM )'''~<'Ihit', ltftr t() ln)lrurctkWl.) gh en on
P'tt ...,,. HI(IJit'\ I , 2. i, Jlld 4
cnch l\4-'t' (k~ t ll.u~ nll'nll
"'-IN......._., 1 l: .;ncbn of k": Jr.:::
''~ 4ut It-~ md tltoWD ~ aoed'ln.

Stlf4 ""'' ( ....
IMtnl.olllfmr.tc-... hdf 1fl
-,
f ')Vttt I
~
/
j
/' I
,,}
tJ'
c '""
,IJ,
-
rv--/~~-41
'I
n 1i ~I
k-p. l;lp
ltlh..h 1 men In 1rnm 'lid .- lndlitll):rwn M d.L-t

lt"lt' ''" n.:ht .. o.k 01 (.lrlftlff.l
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shclukl ~ m.ulnl \Oiith th<~ll. duu or ~tM1I1
f Xlt'rkl 1 lnc;:h "' nntcr from for but too ;uW butt~onholt-\. ~ (...h.Jpter II)
llr.:~to. Jr;au1hnn nd uwnpk:'f" fort~t fu
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PLEAT TUCKS AND PIN TU CKS

A IUt L h
thr liltl it \lt lo ttl I ht llllllfi\ II thhUitl 41 1.tt tl lu. l l ~~ n 41 ~Qt do t.tltn.n
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Pleat lucks
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rrih~ hmrft .... ~ '"'" ~ ntot

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l)!'ll(n I h.l ufl'\ piNtlm k' hettlltWt. I. tu
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De$lgn AnOIV$1$ Design 2

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llf,IW llh' fiN ht(l.: lilll' .lJlllltl\llll.lll'l) C1llnh\'\
In irom thi" IMftl.'r\ ~'\l)t~' Olio. will ;lllf'w lfiC.'ttliO
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CONlOU"""G
IS9
CONTOURING: PRINCIPLE #3
Contouring
(Principle #3)
COHT~
PIIIIHCI'\1 J
c-...o...,.
~ ...... eo.: GO'"'*"
-~~
r~e COHlOc.lt GUDf II'AJTEPHS
~oo"" Conbl~ A:J~ten'IIJ
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and Ch0r1 lfle PoftoJI'I"'I
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HowlotM tl'le Contour~ Pottems
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fHE ClASSIC (MPIQE

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Ponorn foll.on SlOt

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Olf.6HOUWU OSIGNS
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Contour Designs
COIIIHUf d("\ IJtll\ 1(-)JIU\\' th~ ttliiiCUU ~'I lh\' t~'l\h
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ahlt' \ ,'lftt.-..t
f"a:1, '
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THr CONlOUR GUIDE PATIERN S

lit~ I U!IIHIIIII oUio!. I '.!UO!II\.tlll"ohlh~tli-Oijl\1+ ttlhlluto~fl I Ph
IIHIIIII"'ol""fll\ 1~1"" !l'"l""'
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motoiiU!hl , tlot If .1\IUIII In I lh tlh o II< ott\ 11 tlo hU I 1"'' !tl lind I I tf!W ..... II ' 1..1 IW ftw ,.,.., flO.,. h
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Whl'fl+l 1"'11111m 1tl Ilu '''" tlllm CJI
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ul
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Ill o lnly "''''' r tlu IMnt lh ''"''' j(U but ltuoon
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lhn lli j tlh or t hu I tollnw

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IIII 111, Jlh 1 11 If tho I 1111 lt.n 4111 II It Mit tlllio 11 II

to, 11'11~ 11 tho lou'l ~no I ~.tl\1 o lfht tt'l h o , "" ,u.utt t i ll
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Shoulder Slope ond Side Eose
Guidelines-Contour Between
the Busts
I llmlnlllt '"'"l't'\lt<tl 1.-hl i( lll the \hiMII\k:rhnt fur

C\ll l)llf Ut'tL 0 1 ,1um hok\, l llmiiUol\' \ll.k ~.un t.a't('
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\l11L ~h n~~mtnwnt t mkl'l-houk.k-1 nd

fOfUlf' tn ~houk.k"r/ntcl. .1nd \IMJUklc-r ll.i
f'Mh
M.ltl. Skit f~\t .and dr.aw ~kkhn.: hom nw1L tu

.ttm .11 ".ah
Sta nd~rd
Mf'amrf'mtn t 1/ 2 ln<h
-'r- ,s
,.. ,;,an;
MCrt
1/2 ..
Guideline 6-Stropless Destgns
MOO'
F...xctil aJIO\~ tht h\1)4 h d immattcl lut \H,pln~ fh

~ign\ ,m<l lh(lo';( 'Wl'\1 i'IIU! fl.lituM \lrrl\
GU!Ot' "'" -- p..-,c,
UumNIC' un n,"-k;-4 ' " "" kll -..tr.arft"" ~orlJ '"r.-ut
Po"ern
To ~i mptll)' tht' pmc:t''' JC\Ildt ll lit (, 1., " rwnbin.lli'~''
nf guidtllllf'\ I, 2, and ~
UII nucHhr~t~ld 1
l>r.n.. ft'IUdtUrtt '' ltiM bun

fJll'ln<n' llti('J,
Add lhl dtptll mt\urt1flolun 1, 1 ~utdr 11,...,, 1

2
lndJ
~uhtr.n IJH 11uh 1r1 coltwt lht U11c ~11,..,, , 14 Uw

lmtu tlft\lflkl.i ,,.
(~UM"(t 110M Ill fouli>fnl
, ...., I.. """"
1ronsron1ng Excoss o l lho Stylollno

,.,. ,-,ltlnll dJII or nblol~lhtd lntl.'l dM\g:n tk-.OlJllng
How to Use the Contour
If'''"''" ,...._.,
Guide Potlerns
UtH'\1 ,l!lo(o\ \'
t*'(UIIIl' n11ort: than
,~.untf'tt'fXt'
lhw 011 the <c~nt01.u Gukk r.,tt.Ins..

nnt.'IU.,I:h dtW~n oll1.1h.,,_, cklftn\lnt "hK"II ~:ukk-
llnn .lrt" ft'\1\Jilt"d btf<H~ j'lkoetit~ thto JMU(Tn for ~.x
.unr* I"Jr\J:.m I. 2. .t'MI J n"Qulr~ guidchM 1
tuthtu1 nn:IJh\Mol, o~nd fnmt iind b.tcL 'houkkr
\lope' (oufl.klln<' lo~h\ ,""" rombtll('l,l
cutout
M\l.hrll("\ o~rMJ o~~mt.. ~l ~n 1 t\tlh il "'"'. Nd,
ft"QUUt" lfw UM' Olf ~Uilktlnc' 0
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hulkatl"ll "'' th, poln! '' htrt tht ''' 1~ Um; t UJ'i.W\
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1\ .ll d'lot \h klhW', .., \hl'W\\ n in t.Kh \llu,lto~hnn
;t. J:Uiddii'IC". r~u
Cut llw 1\J.th:m, dh<Ju,tin.l unnt't'dl~ .a11:<11-.
t.,
1'1('('\Jtnt' iltkl l>IMlUkk'1
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en tiW CJ.nn'Gt~T I~W oo the- r.tltrtn ti'M" pt>.lln

ttw .nuk
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nd ~ u
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t~ th, hmll.ll\llmf~t\'tU'l"
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rlk'nl .tt. or .tl .u'\'1 n,c dbl.u~ from. tiW' bw.t <'II
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lbf '-"MUII (oUiik r.11Wtn\ \hCliUIJ tlf uM'\JI(W .Ill

dfo<,~n\ tiUI ''' dt'N'f 10 tht l!ctnt than dl>t''- th~ l\1-
,.- prmntt ~ ""''
t "'' lc'llnC'
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\\'l'kn 'hk-Hn'"' U\l'\\ .a ~t\khl'k lndKo~hn( tn~

th.an 1. S ll'k.h of ,.,en~. \I.Kh .&\ I'Jr(ol.lt,n 1, modi- '9n
1-,,:nton h nul I'CqUU\~
Fq..6S4ond~o.t~Qn2
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1\
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fh\' (\I Wut llt"\l. IOUII.h(\ lhl' ~lf\'tl*'lf\ IT~If line
or th" b1"1 llw n~\hn, v.lll Ut lh'C hl.-tkw.uc.t

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drtilt1 r~ultlJIC rhr uw allht Con:lt)Uf c....mk r..t
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.. rtlt J<.IJrJ'II
l10~
:tJ(
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I"
-2
lht '""''
Do>;gn Mol'/lll
lht rmd111f \l)'kl!nC' uf lhC' f Ll\lk I mput t t>Ur\
lld c.tlfWI'Uf\ undr th~ loo..l\1 Jtw \t)'k!irw *"v"
ltt'fUI) dot"""'fl"'"d lh Ulf' uruor b.lc\. lhr c.tnntnt
flh t lq\A r tu th"' fiKtJft ttwnrlt.t '\ tlw tllt'lk ~ffOl nt
IJ..U\ 11.1( ~lhU\) ~It' Cf.. llftol'"-1, h'( thf' mkhtlf 1.111
dt-f
htJ\1
Ponom Plot ond MonlpukJtion

u~ lht- ( tmltnH (oUidc. l'oitlf'UI\ llf I~>Uuw lh ~<t
~- ... c - . . ii'IM
""'"'"II
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Jtl tn~ll)' dJtttffnl djU~I~"'I\ -lfltf Urli\\IP, \ll~
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n:
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I tift" \IVU \'"ft.tlllh\. lht \l)'khrt t~ll h01 d1~11
l""fl&. ... ~11
M~ mt r.b'ic d
''"""'I,...
lht k,....., w1tlt,n t~t,.lk'Cl th

mMI11U l11 tmph"'''' th~
unlo 1 u ... hu t
tht' mkhlll lit\ c. I'""'' l'tlht l~tty "'"I t>nlt<A\ th.. lll
ut tilt' UjJtM I J:UIIM til fh f nii'Uf \t)k-ht_. 111.1')' <.C
tnulnln
cuntrll rht r4!1C "' rlw 1M' i. fflt \.tu.J '' lnJ: ,,..
iKIIII ~ tit tiM' pdHd l'lk-thud "'httl t \
C$ jfl)ID .nul ~.atr.lll h tt.amlcrmJ If
It ftl't thtcnc. rr.mk'rtomr""'""~''-"'' lothl'
..
l.tl\\14 1 rnpur '' .. ("JI"'""' t.lylclin
111.111)' I)' j iM r,l l{.oo!IIIWnh h h tlhiiii,UI\h I .1\ .a

\I ylt lint< t I11'\\UIIC U!ldt-t t I~ hU\1 , .,. Jo.it o~llll, I h
tun '" tht ,,.,.,"' p.th m .w ourt..r1'"" tht

n'U lbl br..Jn .lind !,fl(]fW\ n r!IVI~ohnl '"
...
,J. ,._ ' l
[~ ~
THE CLASSIC EMPIRE
IOO'XJ II M<44~ rr.ot~ ..-.fo:-'10
o111d nK.hUtc.r~ "'' "'"'"'n

foQ\l'~
'''"'' IJ..un'
''til hy ''d o~c~l ,.,.,1 auldlwn:
lhronl.) otntl l flfhflll,
l)r,IW tht bUll tifUifnfl lt'IMI' ~Nf\oll\t' la.lll Ill\
..ml c.u~tnt<-11(\lldl'lht \
\tjl.l.tft it lhll' ft11111 tilt U'flltf ltPt\1 I.,UdtUIII, lh~
do~fllta umltt !hi" buu 141"1 .\ tn K
\id1 \t.ollll nt~.t\UH'\ 1/ 1 It'\\ lh!tll \ ''' K \t.,,l.
t~.ad. nu.t\Uft'\ 1 1/1 IM\ lhnn o\ 1u "

" '" ~nd <w1Ulllt' o1 \111111 lin
( tlll'''
Orw ot ,UI\1'41 \ tyl II !It' hum tht tiJtl hIt lfHtn

ut tMcJ hltlltiiiiH with lht ""lut luw
C tllllw lhl liu\1 cJ,ttt .tml 111111 111 hr .. lt n lutr

olft'ol
111m thr b1u~tn lim.,,. .. ul lht ho1~ ll.lrl 11

~1yh l!u uuh
'1-tj).ll.lt jUIII ftU Jl tht
thmtiJtlit'llll"" \t\ltllrl4
\1<14'
""~11'1
olflll C\11
---
Itl---......._.
-.
170
C~"'q
Empire with Shirred Midutf
r'O'# 38oct.:
F9J"'" 2 FIQM
J:..-u.-o- tt.,'IJIt> fnlllk'll t'CWihtUt ,:;ulo~k-llnt-..1''
IUI\Iff" 1\'f."f\'n<l" t\.1~ .liN I
f\lc-thf J,1rt k'j:\ l ltl IO 1 .f iPCh .lOd H'fiiN
1~)1 I ~ 1tMf' f w.lllloiWUI lt'f~lh I\ nn'\k'l
, , h.-flllfii!IJ' u!ll.k'f thr tlu.t t
o,,~.. .a '-"'k'flo.hn~ Nf\" luw _.,,..,~ tJ~o~III"M\ lf\IC'
h .te:\' h.kl.. lm luck th~ Ulll hnt' .md ~llklr<line ',
l'tl"fnl tt'fll{ r l\otl. llntfl.

l "\ot' ctfftln"l d:mlnloli..(o. t ~en' from gukJeUnc-7
I R"tnl.l\ nJ lh_m l kJr lo('.ltn "hC'n rnid fi ff h ttued
to hti!Jkt' llloltllcn llrtd.
l>ra" ~t,.lnlhlf
.,...,.,
r'f
: '
.brt k('l.
llu9o t;tOllonlii'M'
'
' '
PoHGtn Plot ond Monii)<Jiollon

Uw tilt- Conwur l\11~ l'.iltlt"lm. or lflllcm
rtot .1nd
nw.a"remttU\ ~h,n.
,;_'""':..J Ill
111 tol"'
fiQUIOSI and1
'
fm nt .arul l""-1.. t'tnlli r~ p>111t m' lit n()t

;h:til;lblt', "~ l"l);t' l bQ.I
lf.nl ,fcr ~u ldclinc' 1 .m~l \. M,nl. \ht"M.Iklcr ~(!'If
s;uit.lc 1/4 ln'h 'kl '\ll,
lr;IC\'
Rc tnUH ' Il-111\'rll ,111~1 COIUI\'(1 J!Uidt'lil\~.
I ~X ttrld C llll)h~ IIIW nu\IU1111

Rgure 4 W<(Jnt'l f roo1
(')(t~ cbn tr~t~. hlp
han on tlkl and 11 ncS
I>'''" !'li1Uihn,
( Ul holn) JlilflC"l
...
'
frguro 6MOn~ Bock
c ~)\(' d ll tl ll'lt\
~ !(
bltncl.
I "l nd urutr ll.Kl.. 1 lnt"h .
lnt l'llll In\ .u1d d"' Rt~l nlhw .
ltr ll.l("(' arid
.'
llH' f h~J~H
2 1/2 hl( h('\, 1.1\K' I ,\
M:ark U I 112 lnt'h~'.lo frum 'hclulckr Ill
(OI"III,' tl 1\ Ill 1\.
__
,,_
lt.kJ.
Marl. 1\ I l/l lnt hl' \ houn ,h,,ut\111 tlf' ,m.t mo~l..
I 1-t hu h d'h''n
\tML ( ' 'llldl\"' hrl\"' l,rlht l~ol.. " ''}..
,, 'hu rl Um.
l'h ,m Hll''' lll1'\ l..lhh l f\1111 t hl\
-..;...
"'U"n'
.
'
!_.4......,
'
CON10Uil1NG
172
~9
SURPLICE (OR WRAP)

DESIGNS
r~J
fiOJ('t 3 ono 4
113
11111
(.ut p..XIutn .u.. l.brt J'll.'illt h\. ntl thtt"'~tl.

thr t>I.J)t p:>IJII (h('fl.l'' JtUakhfH: I .IJ!d )CI.Ikh:
I1M\
ltclrX't J!lllltftt~ tl'on.&..tn lim
p;auttn
1).-,n. bkndut(
"""""
p.thtr
rtJ'fl'WI11~ CNI(InJ.I
~o.-uf\c ln'lt" ln~o~n \
1{'1
8 ;~nd un
z tnchr\ tw.~l tnom c:;te:h dJ.tt ~ M
\Lirl. 1 1
..
rontt<'l notchn.. tC;'Ip(n '"I"" f\1\U~
'
kn;(th ot .,Uri k(\.1
1>r.1w 'f''ICf lwnt ,.:QIIt.l M MtoJ ,_,.~,.b
"
1 111
Jb<
lknd<krl n<Mch I J .frnch...-.,(..U~c:untrnl
.11
.......;;
f. . Ho~""""""
P<>no<n Plo4 anct Manlputatian

t:"f the (_()4110Uf (,ukk r.lllttnS, or folk~ the'
'
~nd fnt';t\Ufl:111t'fU)
Cen'Of lront
,..,...,
dJn~~bnt
lt.k"C" the from J),)lttu\ c)n fokl

~
Tt.tmft'l ~uldtlinr I lhH.t\.co lnUN\C'd 10 olf)t-t
""""' ~"""
hl.t\ \Uti( hi nd tlw ~I'WM.1l<kr nd 1-dr \r;&lll
tv: Ol''lill\,. nltdnff p.attc"fn ti N'lf: ''" ~J"P>f1
f9,1e :- bOc
~:ukl.h
"~: d.r Ulhrttd rnldn11
P'o'
8-i\ ('0
( ut ~~11\'111 hOIIl1'>'rtf ;and unfolll

M.ttl.. ~ 1 1/2 lnthC'S hom )h{.-tklt>ttlp .tOO d\l'\n
1/4 Inch.
Mall. U 2 im. ht\ UJI hvm \ldt \\JI~I

lltJW. tUf\'('\1 lint' hh11\ t\ 1(1 ll, lotKhint; drt
..
....'
',
lrX'I' ~1. ~~~ Ml'ld ~ ~;ddt'f mdVdr:
Rt'IOO\'t the J)illtt:lrt .l!ld ('(lf)Hf"CI RUkklll'k'\
point ~m thl' rll(hl 'l<k,

lll,lW .1 \IMh Hlltlhl..,unth()l(' from hU\I jl<'il\1
'<'.1M~
\brtC t I :tr'l<'hnt:cw'l.~ '-lJ'anddr;Jiom

I 4 1nch o cluDI;1Utt ~ &n ~~'
\I,Jrl.. ('I I 1 ~ 1DChc'\ o.-'n :t "Wn (t<mf1 ~"
~~.a hnt. Jno.1 J:r.1"' J1 Olf'"C'dl:int 1D C:
llf;t~ 1-tn~h ('('flU1 bar.lC'\lt't""'lo.:'lft
llt'("l..
( ut p.ntm trum f\lrrt .&.-.d tn.."t ,'Uro.kd ra
Cut fmmiMI\4.'1 11nd ulm \hlttl\'(l,m;J

..
'' ~...,o;----~ ~ ~
foQVIG I
1/.4 \A
.:J!CI"' ... ;ea
fOJ"r 7
').,.,.,.
'
'9Jfl)
r
.
"''0*1'" *'<>"1
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e
1/2
ti
'
'.
..
''
t,,.,
.'
~~
._
1"""0 . ,
.......,-
COt-11~
0..,.,,
OFF-SHOULDER DESIGNS
Pattern lor Righi Side
Portern Ia< Left Sode
fiQUfO .d
~~ cufdrhnt' 1 l\'1. none 1tuc)ll&:h thr ,,.,,,,wllint

.ncJ ""...n'r , 1 md, l);l'f
LkJWtht".ll~l~ lJI"'
1WJt~UtNt'l4rf
lrlu: .1ooJ n-mM< J-.ltlt"ll'l
\WI. I ! Jncb tn '"""' II .100 41" hnf' ,,,
( ''' '"''" Unr lrtml mkJJitnl.ok to, noc

thiOUJ:h.tlu tlll\1 t)lltlll
( tc'"'"~"'.Jhtd.ut hi'f'.
l)f~ '"'"' lji'K' frotnl~tl\110 I irKh ~ r!Oint ll
t)w.ao"' toll:ndlnt: lint' heom A 10ft ~nd trim JWI
tun 1'-h~ lrf'
~
'
)
'
J
~(I'
v
Gathered Shoulder
OoJign A.nolysb: OOligru t ond 2
1)(-'l.l&n 1 h.ll\ a ~Jithtr< \hiMildtt, ollh th~ r.thtt
of thr <k''\lkr\ IIIIN.t unotkt the ttmhcJit l'ut cl
) '!1
~Ilk
Itt<' dl!rt ~"''('\' h ~Aihcrt'\1. tht' t('r~lnii\JI~:\t~\ ~

''.lt\1 dan rontrnl 1)(-U,::n l h t('rf jM.kt k~ l~i,;n
CMIW"r ,.,u.alkwl\ 1<'11 a.n Ollildilthtul c:h&lltn~
1\.atW tn~n
1~ , "'nrcht ltw 1~ ltn
.......
'\tuiW' d.ln )co(\,, (dll'"""' lhc t'IU'\1
.u.:,.
1..-twttnrtd ru~ ,.,..,.
,~,,
..,.._...
r\
/' ,_,
Pone1n Plol ond Monlputofion

\.:""the ( VtlhiUf (lUick l'JitC'fln Ut tC'IIIC"" fWct and
rnt<.IWrt'""-"'"' tthcn.
~,
..
Ftgut8 1
lf,k\" front IMIItfn C'lll fclkl \\'llh .. flUSh pin.
uan~hr ~uldl"lhH' h ln<lud~ 1tw ,,,~,. 'to4:.tl'l1 Jnd
r:IQVtt 6
' 9'05
( Ul )IJ.\Il hn~ 14. ntol U'liOVJth, IMI'I P'"nl
("low rnl<l-armhok phi\ lt4 uw.h n1
\hf~lkltl MUid..... ktlthl\'\' j'l>llltHI
u~t
fllotnd OS!Itfl \ f \IU' bt"l~(...l'l dlll "1{\
\It~ I th~ ~~~~ fll, II II h 1\<'C~s.JI)' 10 clhnln:nt

JMI1 of t hco fulln<''~ o r IU ' '-'dUt(' t he lenl(th o f the
.\11 UnC',J)IIl unw,ut tetl \'.\'-<'') .a:rklrC'\hape ~I)'IC
Unr 'K'l' ttw me.-"'m men I ' "Rgc'\h."<l.
l.ull),liiCrn from jl.llk'l Unfc1ld
Wllllll.'t:l 1(\l ldtllnt'\, n l.-rl..lllll ~lddtll n\' o tlfl
..houkled t\\ ''d" of tht t}.llh'fll unh

M:.\1._ X 2 111(;1\~t.' funn ..twuld\'f 11p .and dt"Mn
1/-1 lml\,
M:ul. Y ,11\d I I lm h IX'IH\' aunhc1k\ ~'" \l(h'
l.a;btl tt,(lllt.tJrlf'
W ol in ~11 ldc l hU\,
\.------
UrJw llrh lnun X to t / .
1\ltnd ;mnhtll" ti, Jl<lhll \'.

l)rot\\ \l:tdl lhll'\ lf()lll hU\l fKIII\1 \ tl , h,,llil,f
( Ul p.1\1 t tll Ihill\
ll.ll~'l,
17S
.'
-'
CONTOURING
176
0'1Qp'l)l 9
171
HALTERS
flaltt r~ ''"-' dt'\IRnrd \'o ith b.tet \hiJ\IIdt!\ nd rt lftll~ t')' tvttmr lhe lJmhott ~v mto \~ \ht)uld!;rUn.:
In l)e\IKn I, th(' h.llltr tul h t\l('rM.Il-d tr,, Ut iiiJ\Uid tiW rwd lb( ~\ 1\ ~-<.\It 1>t'\~ I rt illutrU:chnd
l)t\IJ-:1) 21\ a I,IXtltt> j'lfnhlu1t
V-Neck Holter
Ponom Ptol ond MonlpuloUon
l'~ tl'tt' C HtUt.ur Coukk l'llun\ '"' trlltrw the P'nt
~nd mt.I\UIC'1f~IU\ a,f\1-:n
-/ ) .zn. .
"'"'n ~
f!m'ICr~>'t' p.aunn (,()fU""t ~-.kttnn..
\l.ar\ n\ \.and conflf'tt to "u~hM'

k'\Y'h-
1!2
1.., ..
NflOiufe A IO 8
( Ul l).llltm fiOIIIIl.ljM<f
f """ '
l ('tl111,fhllokl'f
C (lfflplt11: plllt1fU J()f lf"'.l hi
"''
,A
I
Gv<I..,. 2
\\..
'
...
1{1 '
~~ ~ 2 and>~
p"nt lll.nlap
noll
~'
~'*'---:h. tbr tv.:
Y:'\". utt .tid bWrld
I 1/2
S/8
'"
'"tn
'(
EQuOis A IO 6
'h"f'C' tnUu<1klft
j(jl'tf'IIOf the front p.tlltm lnru.l'l' 11 1...1..1 poll
~o I
,f. t
11."0 dnd:'fl tbt bo: t.J.. ~ .a_...~ lD

Ch.lptn lq f\i~C" ~ ~ r ,--:.rc ~ .lltld- ""' ~"
StrJ~t.ol \l~khnor .1nd rm~c:
Cu-t \h.Mkd .rt.& from ~ttrrn
[')nw. l~ r.-~mimn.
fiQOI'e 3 eo:. .
!g.,
)1-
t bu't
\l,ltl. 8 I 1/Z lmhn hum rntrn \

lh"Oll"- .111 ~ mch lint- up hum pumt \ l""'"lld "'-1th
tht unlt"f hnnt hnt )qu.ll\" .uw t.()nnn:t h 5
l)ra~ ,m 111"'-.trJ~unnl llnC' fu~m ptllnt R tnd
In~ 1/2 Inch ur kl'\'lt'f bl;lc,~ o~lrnl~t~lk- c-n 'tdt
'\eam ~uklt
<)1>
;I'
<: I
.\n:l
.._.......
~~ .
.....,
:-'
11<11' fmm p;t.H<"tn \\nh " pu'\h pn, tr*'hl.,:

gulddmn 2. -4 1kw mtidifkd fln,.and \ lntlrudt -..k
'
4ti"\.'J..
..
~~,
~,...""
Figure I
.... c....
~$
\.
1116
"'-
-- '
. c-.
---
COIJ.ARS
179
INTRODUCTION
A Cf'lllnJ C'lldtth:\ 1hot llf(l. Al\\i lflfll('\ lhl f.teT, uth:rnl' ltrt'l "Pfl''nui\JI~ fot ~11i~n nr~Ut'IM ColJ._t\ m.r,
bt- d~-1. t'lOtlt\1 l1mt' l) o r a\lo)' hum Ur(' '*'-'\Jirw 11~- nUl'- ~ "'W..O, Nntw. JUt or ht;h ~ncl nth ac llh
001 an att oll~ ht'\1 , t;HW. I ht <ol\11 C"\l~t' rn.a>)' till: w~oll.,-4 '" IN"'~"'"' & 1~ ~pt-.i' ft'\1'' be rnund. <'Uf''ftt
"'"f'oi>\-.J, "&U~It', 0 1 flOhUt'\IIIC>I1 tt Hill 'h11t1lln m dunho n
Collars
1 ht dlokf- (,1 I (olill.u dc~,:n ,t..--.ukJ C:OfiiJ"t-mtlll o~fl(.i t"ntwl<t" tht- \h \(' Mid purpc.-.w nl dx- Ufm('ftl
Otht'"r rolll r 'h.JI'"'-"- w~ h .J\ ~h.a " l o11ld liJlt"' eolian "111 ~ ~ 10 C. hl~.n l2 w-111 ,ac~ l:nd coal'-
ltoocl\ lltt" tn c. hllplt'l
24
,,.
,,.
Olfi!OOUCTlOH
c:<l<W n C'<)U.M SWC> AHfJ AOU fV'PlS
C()ti.AA CtASSIJfCAIJONS
1rASJC SMIItf COUAIIt K)ONOI\ti()N
--__
-~
,__,c-
0*,7\0'~
t' ~ ot ,.COler
Nftff MH COIJ.AIIS
.,.
eo
180
.181
,.,
...
......
.185
185
~ot ~t~eColofsSIMti.Wodtt\
"'"'" 80K Pit'-' Pon COlon

Pt'- Pon ~" 1ftn Sklnd (fui-Rcl)
Pttllll' Pon
~
<.: -
wom 111"'" 5'Md (Por110f.Ro1}
Ptftf Pon 'N lt!.
'10' -Roll
SAilOR CotLAP
8cJI,.~ SalOl COIOt
$olol' ...,.,," b iOtWOn
5(wl)l! W!lh ""''
Cou.AA$ WITH OlEP.OPlN NECtc\INts

Cob to1 V>Heck
C('IIOr to1 SI~.O rtocltlr)t
MANOAAIN COlLAR
~ Mmdo!ln---~ 1
M ~~Co'IOIVor~ION
COI.LAA WffH STMIO
WlOl COU,AR AND SIA.t-~0

C()U.At .M~O ' lAND A.WAV
fO.OM 1H{ aASC N(CIClJtft:
Al~~ 6-0'lf COU.A~ ,t.HO $1Aif0
t OuCOUAAS
'lcl!ltJ , ..
'
PQII CCio7 ~~ C r'lr,<NOf ' ""'"

COliAt OI!Jtotl VAPIAit<',IIS
S.ll f "'"' u..A'V n "'
185
185
180
187
,.,
....
...
100
,.,
,.,
..,.,..
......
...
,.,
.,....
..
XlO
200
COLLAR TERMS
C.
Ntcklhw t'tl"'~\ l lw ,1d( c11 lh t wll.l 111.11 h ''II' h'''

10 lht u ('clr.lh w o llh t )t4\Tillt' lll
('ollur ldJ:t' . 1 ht l'llh't t'\1...,'1.'
tlll:t.r ,,.~~nd 1"1w ~'hi,., "ht;.b 1h ,'-"'lou 1\'11~
'"'"' 11'>1. I
R'"'' hnf' 1 h(' ,,'>lJ..'rl.at t.~ ,,..., ,w,.J.
~~ dt.,!tn ''f II~ "'ll.u
...s
.,.
COUAAs
ND AND ROLL TYPES

COLLAR STA L)(IJ11 Ulu\lriltnlln ltJ.:tlft'' I,"', am1 J lndk.tlf" when the llt:'IJ<.hl ollhe "-t.\nd S.top}
Tbr ~IIII'W' (II lh~ tilt l l

.and 1tt.; tt.~IIIIM l'lt'Cm'
131
BASIC SHIRT COLLAR FOUNDATION

l hf' ,,.._I<' C:C'tl\'trtlhk (1"4br m) hr "'P'" '"'M'n r>T d..,.,_-d 11w v.oll.u hM lu-.ch \hnd tht' a:-nttt bad.~
lc""
lb \\\(hh .._.,uk>\ horn Z I ll to t lnchn h un ,,.. dl'\dc'l)td wtth .a K"Mn

~he coll.lr ~or {Oldt-4 and C\lt
:r,, t'lttk"f 11 OIK'*plf'\(' or 1\\'Q-IIolt ft\fltu hk~ w~m1 c.olb.r. llw ~&anJmr ~ bto SUii;;ht, aOM...,~. or~. cit-
pend ln.: ua,nn thc- dt.'\IJ:Il ~:lt~'C.t dt:"ht.'\1
ott~ dt'\lt;.m
"'h"' c.vt in Utl!Jn. dw~t, or pbid:\ 1br bbk colbs an bt 2 bbt tcx
\tc;nurll'mc-nh !\t'f'4JC'd
Cffttc-r b~C'~ n.l - - - - - - Cttutt front nl
l<MI - -- - - -
f'O
~ ~ 011
.,.
J
s .o ,,IOf "
Flguoe 1
Squ:ltt.lUOC"tnt~t:t'ntC"roftlwp.~pn \t,tl~lll.l
l.lbtl tht rou.o,~ln~: kK.atM""

A to 8
8
COLLAR CLASSIFICATIONS
Rt>prdln~ ol tht rolbr dn.ltn. tl'lc- ""'-Liuk
t;cnmlh hu one ol tv.u bl'k '1'1-l(lc''
l lt"M;hn troll.:u wkhht
c ,.... , .. ~ "'"""'"'''"
R 10 ll
l.obcl c
c_.ntcr b.Kl. tn \houkl~tr \f.ul. fe ~ch..
nl~
.......
'
~~------~~~------~-~-
Io I
Contnl'\ to thr nn.Umot t\ln r of thl' l<um or
.(;)nntnt. Tht~
~~~01 mllaT ill 'rnnJt O('l\n
to~tkn urtbuttt)n~umcntbk trtAUrt"\ -4
'nd
S; ptot:l'lt\l'lt-lht- b.l\K \htn wll..1.11
Agure
2. oowt) folloM tht rune- ulth "'"'~htw ot

tht form oc ~rnwm Jhh t)ptut wll~r ~ 11
s.t.ar 111 pbcc whtn unt.auml"dtomnn,l"Nhl"' lftlt\trt (, flff~Ol) I'~' -th('
~tcr
......
P;ln tollau.
f1;>n'
Square .1 lhh' u1 (wm C
'
Non.eonvortiblc
I Dl
Mat I.. 1. 1/2 lndt 11o m C

n raw a nuvcd tin~ I rom 1 hl\ndln): \Uth 1'1
S(jttilrc .llln~ ftom A 1.,,"1nt:. 11r1,h \11 nuuc lfl\ln 3 ~
StUidcllnc C. l .tlxt l.
l) r.Sh ' .1 IIIW from I h} I',
l)r;~w ,1)tt.tlnlhW Jml 0.11 t it~ U)ll,u fu,nl til( j\lfl\'l
.. -
p.
COUAAS
113
Folded Basic COIIOr

r~gure
Ur>derCOIIOI
Tht ut)J."f\~-.tlat 1unrtn h nu~k' >.hllfl' 1 h1 "itltlllh.Anlhr UJ'I"''"''''" H I\ 1""-' .11n t:'''''' t tn-\ \'111 ti l<' \Ill
J..-n,'lllu tn"n riltlu. '"'11'1"\(ltMI tlw >lit. hllln II~ Ull<l\ ln1U.tr I \I MIIt'\1 html t iiC' IJI'I""IHIIIlll ( I ht bml..\"rl
line- m the llhltr.lltl'"' ui\IM.m"' tlw oW1J'Inal '"'11.11 Ilk' vkJ ''''""''
nvttht'\1 I ln1.h '""' fr(lftl
('M"h v..k ,I( ti'K' 11'11rl tu..l. J l ttw tW'I.L.IIrM'
1 hr
lmtrw. Um
to t he' dt"' dopnwnt Hf Jill
"'~
lt~lu!\11'11:
"l~h
'''"'"''"!:.
I~
1
1'1d 1''1'1\ I 1~11!/.lh~w
"-1UiUt' ;'I ~ui.tdh)l lo~ll
,~,
t 111m
tui\1 '" tiM. H 111, ,
P'l't'
""""""""
,....,..,
...
lr~ ttM: .,.f'I""M.U..I

trun 1 ~ ,nchM!d ~ "" ~.., uhf..,, "f'W"'
.II ..tl(ln knr .11lhf\TOI(f ~L .tnJ tt.kh.~lh dtJIM.
lhr IIIIW ltrtn' tlfk uliLM f"'"nt
-5
lr...:tttw<oi&M
figure 2
f11P 5
l 1tlltllkiiiM.: ...., ... a, t lt<"ulll.u ...-.~ .....~,ton

llw xuM.klltk'
t_m ftom
c~~u\ohtlwn
'ftOkJa. ,._ ~
lln cd:lr.lt\ 1th .ln Uf'lll'l"ft ~~ ..hnr 1run ttk n

cr'i' tr~.-om thr nn.Unt nl~ illttw ,.:~tl.u
Foflol'l\
tJw \.:Uftf'U\\.Ina.IIII'CU ,n ltthn In til(ut1" 4
The t-olb r 1\ lluUOJirV ~Aith ,a ''"'h'f '" '' ~ <o(",un

rht ltr.\lnlitlt 1..11'1 br du"n \ltJ!I(h httJtn. u'"'''
Jtl~fl . (If hi.-\
..
v
'""".. 1
'
figu<e 1
11M ooU.u t \ <UI nn tl)l It *I
Co llar Variations
FtgtuhJ3
""'"
( 'tl\l,lf \tl...lt;t\\ t .tn \,U, IU~IItlht; ''-''k n'II.U (. ,,)

lar \,UI.tlhtl\\ IM'J.:III .uht hl\'nd -'1'1" ''\llll.-td l Ill
lith' ,,tth tlw ,h,~t~ld'' thh h
..
_.;.---I
PETER PAN COLLARS

Fil Problems of the Collor
F'lf;P.- 1
"'-"*'" l oll.Jr\ ~... lt' .1lotJ\t' thr- \lit' I1l!ltt .11

th<' I\II.J. 1\t\L
Qr
. lntft'.t\1. tl~ ~&.11, td!tt
C.
Principle
ut ttU\'t'
;:,.("1 bc4"~ft t ill' ~'Uitkr ,JIWS th( t~IIIO:I
~'\h
lht 114:'\.Uhl~ n.lll.\'' nf no1 W.t~t\\otlt1bl~ ttiiiJI\ ,.,., \lrnLbr tn '~Pt l tbtn.l'c of tht
In
th(
I\ th(' ";Inti the- \1>11.11, tho: ln1 \Uftll..tot', thr hi1htt t\
\lmll.111t~.
bKL totht nUlPt
10...,~1
Relationship of the Collar's Slond.

Width. ond Neck~ne
Ponern COO.c600
f91el
C.ut thrtt' \W\11 lif!C'\
lt<O
Wlnullkt
u!:::~l'llr- TlM-cknn:
Tht hci&ht of .1 nloll;u ,,,.lkl I\ controlln1 b> thor

,.nMIUnt nf 0\\'fLtt) .u th\' \hnukkt UJ~ <of tht hvrnt
o1nd b.Kt..JJoall("tt'l lhh INHt-mtn;~l.in~ tn.hn..quot"
utk-d th(' o4 to I 1\lk ..nd '' llhn11.1tC'\I m Uw o.lor\d
O(lfllt'flt til tht l\1cr l'.:.n Joll.ll'( (JOliNI\' tilt" r~Litnt N~ co('~'"" h c~.al.lc to ttuot
trf tht bl\.k l~otttJic'lor ( Ctltl,..lt' tilt" "kith CJf c-Ah
(\IIIJt 10th\" hught o( ttk' u.U.11 \Wld
to nntff
""'
nL
\pmdl~~
~C'd ~ lrt .and cut
cOO!
...-eune
.. .. -....
p.iltt'fn
TcoU ht
\-llilltl,ll lir~h ~and.l H4 1nthn ...,

K-1'.&11111\.a l 1/lIIU h \hUt<l. ' liZ ii"Khn- ""!Jik
C-JI.u.roll 1/K-inth \t.amt; .lny \loklth tdn-.ht to

thr \h.IIJt' ttl Hk' l~\k flt'(t..hn'C'I
I hl' w idth o f th t tuflllc I\ lim llt-d b~ tht dNrriJ
h ttght u llht: toll;u \t;~nd
FIQII 4
rwNm. c oU,nt l.:alh lomc'l)' o~r('llmd the ~:o:.nnent.

'wl11ith lfl .'
llt'\ 1\'.J'-4.' tiW C'01IIll''i rtlj..'('.
C" ' tllft"C' '111\ltllnt'~ tu the. n t"Ctllnc btt\\'t.tn tlw

o;houl llt r ,lnd lhl' urltt'l.
fiQ\Kt 6
C )v~r l..l'
till'
Three Boslc Peter Pon Collo rs
dt\ l)ln, t h e <;t)\l.u of tlw l't'h'l l'.ln I\ wtmllt'd n~:ur\.... 1, ! . .and\ llliNJ.It(' 1bt hd.;':lt 1 tbc. ~ _,.,.
.tnd t h e \"ioll:u wid th. I h t fro nt J),lfl <f :l l'tlll.:~r ,;t.ll ht l.k~~tnt"d tl U\\ lftl-C'l~: C'IC ..,ki:tl ~ anr-1 ~ W::::t
th\ h;u k w ll:u .u till' \llt~tldtrllrw
It)'
~lllliWd 1)11 1 1 ~ It) ta~t~ up t h C ('.OCCt").S
1nd pln
Rrmn~ ~oOII ;tr
9,.,
o--.
~~
L:..L
frnm th t r;~~tmtn t .
Ponorn Corroctlon
, 'l .lffl(l
\).1\ h l,.lh
m,
lt.tu .nul t ut
...., lit
nVNI.:ap t'<jiiJI .un QUI\ 1\, a m i t ot p(',

th~
p..uon
136
C~"4'1 10
COUAAS
.......
Peter Pon with l/21nch Slond

(Portiot-Roll)
Peter Pon v;~lt) floi-ROII
Ponern Ptol ond MonlpukJtk)n

F"QUI 1
'<>
Po'flern Plol ona Monlpu!Obon

,.. l't\..ap
.,..,,tht
hokt' th\' b.ll,\. JWittm

hnu Jlllt-m on
lr.-..:nJ n1l\ t("Jlkhlnlt th rnd.lit'k .1111~ U\t-rb~
u1dt- up
1 ~
Inch olOd
S"f<"'o.. "'
......
r"'~ thC' "houMtt 111~ 2 hkh'*"'

ll;kf' tl'k IK"'il.lint .tnd 1~11 ul til~: ~ll~:tlonn...
'9A.
o
ht~ tbr ,"(fttct bk nn.~ I ""~h 0rll1\ I~
""'-..rm.: t~~ ltw ,....nt cn.ll .. 1 Ut..h t1.;o

.,.. \."t"'llt'f tNI'It
o (lr.a ,.n !(- (QI!Lir ~r.aDd "'1h thr nnlJl!W
C'UIIhr e>'&f from lhr Jllf'\L
\Ur;. .a no..o~,h .111 \Jkl~Akt l1i'\"' o~~lW """"" noc .."tJ

c-u1 lrotn J'lr'ft 4ol'kl tNt l\.1 I~ rtn "'' n~ ,,. lh{'
fllntlttil \Do- .ln ('\lrt I 1n lnl.h hor,nl\1 lh,_.
..niLn PJ'Illl
C~te ~ Co~t:Jt
f<)nl
lrMT ttk' ..ntur an h'lid oil be' JliJ-"t
\Iolii. <~nttt bd.,K-t hn.
t- ~~ ht>f'll
,.pt...
holt\' the n\llJt on tlw h'kl Rl' IIIUW tht ~Ul'tn .

lfim l ift tm h 1\haded .U\',1) ~ lllu\tr-h.'d.
\lt11l.l~o1110h ht~ I 4 iudi.J)'iUt .tt l"'t'lll{'l Wci..OO
IIH' lt~.,l..l int" l'dj.."t .tnd tm\' OCilth C.lfl CtJIIJt'\ t'dSl'
'~Z
Compfeto lhO Collar
Agut\!4~r
1&7
Flgurtl2
flllllJkU' tlh' \CIII.n "" llhl\lf.at""-'
",.n~f"'t'C'
..
,._. ;_'\"'ftt! ib
=
'
'
\_
f(('\";ll
thc-
C.OlJ..AA!.
IN
CI'VV'- IO
ftgUt. 2 ~III'd Colt-Jf

1 UICt c o oll~tr hll hld ( Ill flm r<~J 1 anI IU\floM
l'h .tw Jll ottnllnt- tbft)\ f n li m
urttl u tl'll"' ' U
lht C.'t"niU h nnt 1\ h i! tn l11kJ. lh~ tnlhr 411 un
1N 1~, !Jl'JI\.Ikl llt' \5~ht 411111 \1 .\ll\\ .toelo"nJ
Sotlor w rth ErleOSIOO

, ..#
ltt-pr.ttlt'l~lrUitl(JM f r ~~ 1 "''th N f\lllr""""4
f''l~ '1" ..,,,,
fJ'f4111'1' a pill.l!t.i
~,,.,,
.......
fo.r~;~
3 ~'~ 8o<Jo":l) on FOld
ht;thll~h .... tim n\.hn~ ''" llrlld~c.'
\ ul hulll p.;ifWJ 111.- ~:14 UlU\It,)llfd 1
lr.ICt U:'RIU b.Kl., dt.IW c.'lllt'ft\1-nn m.ul. bulllf'l
hole.' fI.IU'tt!H \<vC holj11tf If:. I
~-)
oo.<gn AIIO!yw 0...00 1

Onl(l'l I f\<llllflf'\ WI!IOf '"IIJr th;n h VIU<il\-..1 In
bX:\..llndtnduT ~ \-~UU\o ttl ft11n1 Th.-lt~thdf-
Lkhoilbk.
thfo f'.liUift'l tk\rlo~Pfnt"nl nf dr11Xl\\
""''"' ,.n ('\lft'l\11'11 I<"Jf butthft .1nd ti\IUInhlln,"'""
jll~ l fi9,111(Uit'-i
nr
Pcmetn P1QI ond Monoj)\JIO!IO<l
fo.-'
\\nh '''-'' I'd 1 K'- ntd, t~U~.hlf'lt. ''"'rlap

'obooukH llr" I 12 1Mh
tr.... t- Cn'lttt ln.nt, ctr~l r tao. nil ott kiii'M' f>.-
m"'" p.twm-..
A. to B I\ tht' drJilh tilthr \
fMt~
r......-1.-.pu111.uu.uu\-lrlnli
\q~o~r
a linr htnn .-ntn b I I \houidn and

ff.,m 1ht \i"o(Jtllth cannn-1 wntlll tLit1ld WIUI
.drf.an.a.
'"' c.U., lruns fWl'"
, 19
lint-
nt:h hnm Ctt'\""1 !-'f\1
l)l.rw a hrw hom thotilildt:r t'of'(\. ~~ 1(1 tt. n; .

PJlnt .arv:S rom~ .. Jht cd&.s..
~h ll tJvo~Jtl!wAr pi.kftllftl' ~ (_h.ptft '" 1
'"'*-"
COUAAS
C~fii"IO
190
Portom PIOJ ond Monipukllfon

fiQU"f I CoiOt
rll,C""IO!' lhl' n\~Um-t hom \, R. <;, 10 U. ln~t
,...,~,, '" .lt!Jtl~ , .., ....
COLLARS WITH DEEP, OPEN

NECKLINES
l 9l
~ ..,.,_ Dologns l ond 2

~~~ l.anct Z. both llUY.ntot (l">ll~ion.an
f>Pfn nrc:UII'tt'.ln ~ I. the- c:o!Lat 12b.1
fbtroll pM~ \houW.:s o~t nt<.~ o1 the- ur
t \!(tid ( hn< hlndK'\ J).)~l 8 HI< I
Mn'!l to l)tol.."tn l.thu.oi.WW'Ilha t '!lOth

..~ u liMn 11 ~twuWtt
'<tw"' .1 lin< In 'rmn f and up to d-llder. Con

ti!UK' th~ llllt' Ill lht' kn,;th OC lht lk' 2 incht'i
fi11U "
\ t\111(' Ihe' h< <t"Kh

( utlr11ffl P'll'(' );1.\t' ""t'll~ ion."llon from tn'K't.
'~
C()(ofo<
"QA 1
I
Pla.;y-
on.
""'"
_......,..1
....
l4" l -:: ICidL
coa. IS i&useme
~::a;. ~
o.c ccAat .. ..r:n h.4ce:

to ~
1/8
f'rrt Kl4 tiiO. ~ -~'*'

pam
ibcldold ~
tbr
'D
too..~ ~ "::kr .111':14
tni'D " ' ' wakla...
Trxt- coQaf ~ --.t;~ Ia omdtad".at.

S pt;tt h - F NR" :
Fq.211'1181
l1.11X "<"~~<"W"pt.-d IO'ot'l kt11Cifl\ ron fnll.i
rhntd
o
a~tat.
n'.a"~
Collar 101 S' ":::.?C ~' ;-.a
l mdlt\ll'Jl\")OI">rl<Jnl ,,,,.. ftlfnpnll,_.

\fliP' C.1t nn lnld 1nd .l!tld
F9JI ~
;tnd for bullnn Of

I Hlnch ll.".llfh
h..!ft
rt.("l" ...,
~!'. ...~~
,._e.,,,.
1 rw ,f\k ..... trNl.t a;llll.N<!."' ~~-t f"\>

~tm\ "'"" ~' DW'.I...udl,.,. 1 .. ('1\. rnm.
"''}...
'
"
-~...: ~~~
n..o~. ~t .aN ha..,. 1Wt'rtl- ....... J'll~ t

tnal~
... ~ .tt n<"" llt'\l
....~"ttlar ..h..'Ul.it "1 : ,.._r,.... lnJ tnt.'"
"''..
R~,..._~,.
~"C'nM tv..,. .anJ ~"f l'ft'a

...,ct.m
''"'""""" ..i&M:J ...... ON'\1.

Jr-I'#U
3 fttt P!rq
1)1'..1"' lttl<lll'llt'l.ltr
\ lti' '"I t.&n ... tl.~o~ hrd II ~~m~nt un~ktnt-.lth

I tiC' ht l'ull hf llu'"'~JI ,..,.
..
f4'l ... ~"" "tl'i(- ~

'""(' tht
..,.
anJ!\,t.. ...~-m.~ ftt\.t.JI::w;
"t..."'flhr'_.
ilkn: :oAat. ..... '"( ~ ..
._"t"w.,._..,
F"IQU"e 2
~U.lll UJl l ' :_ Ill' h 1t11m l
n'"'",. '""''*lin' It""' I
MANDARIN COLLAR
H r~ 'cl'ln. o~nd' 1'1~.,.. H'lfl.l.rl h .1 ~a,.,.,..ruunt -.un.l"f' 4;:~l..u It XJU"

~ !r' th.'''"' ~ ll't'' tn "'""'t fl .., I I ~ h I I : tndw ,,... tit< .lH r.l~o It h thot N .... lt"'' "-"ht"t C'OU.lf\
4".1..""-h .,w,-.._'lltltTUI*Xto.fllbr-.,U.J UJ~>.' \.IIYiklll'' Thf 11.)1 m.a IIW<l .II ('C'nt'"l tn."'lfll l>o,: ~1'\YILI~ .and
hi~ ('If l'oo- f.\~ k' M p.'i-111 ..,...,.. ..; the: t'lnl.lnc ttw 't...n..t.a"n ,,.n tnk\ ""-""" <Uhl(f dt'ISf 10 or
_.a\ . . . . d'lr I'W\-Ir. It ,-an t1( C\11'.-.l N'UI'~nl f''l.nlt'\1. 1'lf t"\tcnlk\J 1'<\f .I J'lfti.ll t<\~Jnh>\<f n11bt <Ut Tbt
.-
~., d'lu at" ....a.n~ rt
""~Wont~"~'" oJrVt ~ (l.IU~
nnJ.U'~ t\h:( lloll.u
\1 ,ulr. ,lnl lo~t""l t
'"
n. \lltrtf'khna tlw
"tu.n\: .a I 1 .! l'''h lm, ,., rt)tht .lfllt$o\ 1., 1 ()

U~ll.
.
llrJ.~
lim '"'m \"'I
~r.allcl
""''h' lH 1ft
"
~------~---------~
-
~J
\_ul C'C'II.n lnnt S'll"tl
h:~ '""'"'f'~tc ttw ~urrn tt.au on tr-W l'Juw
ltf,unluw 11ld ne-t, h CTfttf'f ~ 1r.
t cmtktc the' l\IHctn .uwJ ttk'lf to nu.1..- .t ..SUJ.'Il'"''" n'f"' .... thf t.'tll..._, ta1n1t
[
Mondoun COllar Vor lohOOS
l11t h'l""''' 1m:. ( ynarl .. ;m url.lh..'" C\1 lh<' \b.nJ.arin l(l"lld.llllm
~<' lfh' l~U\"fll .anJ m~'\Jah .t\
ilhi,HJt,.,J
rt..
( um ,J i\" "u~o (t' t.'"' II
8oS>C Mondor n-DeSiQn 1

"~"UMntft$. ' ("\'Ck'd
. .,.,....
CrfHtl bkl. IWd,
tdlt-cr fwnt ""-"-"

TouJ
----
..
[)l,ll\ 'Uf\'~\ ~\ \h(Mf'l
.,tW~or~)
htmJ IIPc l L"' ~ ,'t'Ctcf a
..
"~ttl ~~
. . ...
~
COlLARS
194
195
ChOC'(If 10
r:OU'.,
COLLAR WITH STAND
WIDE COLLAR AND STAND
ho1u \l,md.uln tand 4llt(' hrl~l.en ll n(' m diC;j lt'$

1 1"'" ' cf 1ht ~lin not nmlcd I
UM~ Uw n'IJ~r. U \l m : rnN\UJt"11'K"f11\ J:i''t"
'oHh II)(' lllkiJIOIIII C'llh~ UJ)j'l('l rd~ Of th~
nll.u
1)(\ljl.n\ (,.. Huln~ \\ILk Colla!\ ~llh Utkl ~lth~t folk'!" lht N'k I'M.d Jult, H tUu.~ltd. Of "and""'~ twm
the ha\i( II( '( klint lk'lth wllr .111d \lnd rt bi<K''iJ un ~~ nonc"""-c:n1bk <-or..IW printlplt..
f.g.re2
l ~ (.oat.f ..nd told
(_ut ttt.-n papn: IJ1d n:'t'JU krr
r-7.=='.---:1."
,,, .~..
1.1odrr~
pi# 1\.J. ~ ... k,>!' r;uid.an((:
-;.
~~~~~~~;~~~----~__________J'n ~
Oes>gn\ coiLu "'~~~ ''' lhr "'~" ~ of ~ \I.Jind.uln

~ ttue h.n ~n (.''~'"' tor the' tlutt 1ft o~nd l'lut
1,~ 1,aho rdc:m:d to -".l ~Itt ~llfbn. Ttl """'CI'f'
rbr \ I.M'Io,Llnn tounibhlft. '"'~\ l._l: .md Jql
n.- p.atttm I ~.:n J h
...~
'*""
nu,.,3 \Lt,., 1
u k1.
( ut front p.apcor
1\t\tro~l\"\1
l'l:l!t4m PloO ond """".,..,_
~ i
fq.n I
Tr;act \~Jn1Pr1n \t.lnd
')QUJit' 0111 llnch tl.t.,.nurn hum \ o~nd B
,_, Ptol
Ponern
i
c-eooe
Conn<
Un {Uf' \-.J hM
With thot hon1.1 n..t h~t. t\o\"tl \ t(luthln~t, n\c:tl..lp

Sh O'Mikkf 11)>'1 2 Inth(~
lr,l\10' Ltnte r bJllr., un ttt lto nt and ntd:ln'k
l)r.aw Uw n cckllw:, tndlng til Inch bd<1ft L't'O

trr hont
nraw
\t.uL tNu onhok pl.ln1ftc-nl.l\ fohcw.n.
one! MoniP<Jiotlon
thL l.C)II.ll
I);Utllltl wlm Ilk
nt'\. lo..lh\t', tn.J.
lng 1 1/2 hu lll~ fu'kn tht' l \"lll\;t lrclltt IIM.tl11~
,..,....,
coiJJ I Ol<l)'
lx ~~ wklt ,1\ d,\III,"C,.., o1nd th ( h dOI
coll.u Ill ~)' ll\ uf .m)' '"'lle.l
fogor 4
( u t ,l,l h lhwt to, ' "'' thH'k1gh, the rollat'$ up
Cuo
on ....
u__ _-'-_ __
I~'~'' \'111(~
r 'ton.tioon
l'l,n
n 111er b,.\\ k "" ft11d. !.J)t<'MI -.ecllom

1/H lndL IU~4.' i\prt~.ld llljt :1110\\\ <'ull:u to II\ on
Jr:dUll ,nt WlthtiUI tldillJI. U\)Wlld ,11 C\.'nt l'f
bad:.)
( ul h om J)il!\t:l
.......
'
r-,--~
/
~------
'
Sft
COllARS
ROll Coller wllh Culowoy Noc k
199
Pooor PtoooeO'Ion
f
r.r .' "'

lt lh 1"'1'" nn a '"-do.,UT ulxl"
llfol~ A1..141looii11M' lo nt~;h'l"'o U(l 11<1'1\ ll..lu"'n(
thr .\ tl t ff"~nc:nt llrl(l...._," _.,..,, ~

.. JWj,lotf and ,...,-4)\f"J)
' ut
huol t
rlgl..lf'e l
k.f' r10 8ond

hokll"l""'
Turfle Neck
M"'110 lhh mu."-'ITCI"'1li(Tnltf
"'!Ufl' ~ llrk '""'" th, ~ltd to "fU..I ln.,.n ;)nd

1'-K"I. !'U(".IWIMIIt'lll I\ K, ( I \l.ttl. R k'lf IMIIIcb
flliMfftM til .II oJM>Ul..k t
firt.l'ft t\lt.t.lki IIIlO"\, '4vt'Cd \ lntht'\ ..,\MI kif,;,~

llldtll ,!h""-hl"\lmfoJIIN"Idth~.IJftllilhKM
.ttUfl 1., duutok " . . I\ I 1 o41rk'"IK"'\ 11111~-t t\ldth
u ..J-Jt\'\1 '"' "''"'"' linf'J_
( u(l IW\ I
l"fllll\
,,.. '"
lk.al'l the- Not\ .,,tnllfw-lllnll >111Jtl~~:l~ d)(-Jl.lll('fn

,,~
Ill llr\IKn l.lllM\ h,ulo.J f llo\111. k .a Htl.nu) nnlh.rW

11~11 drut~ tk't-11 "' unltl lt.k i
JWl
'
I
"11
J. ~
I'
Portorn Pfof ond Devetopment

f~QU~es 10"10 2 ~~
M~ 'JfiOI'l
lu~._ p.ltttrn .1nd .WIII\1 rw..l. ,h
Hlu'""'''"''
8kmJ 1111'"' lll'<Lhnt"

_\'n ~,~._,,,1 fllrlftttlnlll ~ff'lf't 111 '' M
Mr.t~llf\' Afl,
. ..
/
.; J
f.guro4
Doslgn AnalySI< Dosign 2
rht '111{'1 b..d. (,ill I~, c:lltWII IVilh j(I(Jjr\ .lml
fiQIJIU 1
1'1."~ \hvukkr lim"' t;..:~;tht fll.llthlnt .u lll."'\.._

.en;t tiMW lht 11\'"( ..IIIM'\ ( Ul lmtn liM: IMI"-f
\k.I\UI\'IIk tn1.11 md(llr~ fwm \ tc 1\ '" t
I htlftlfll ,md lu~ I. htldk ''1..-lltlll\ ""' 1.1111\Jll hAtld Wollll\, S{fothl , .u ld p,llh'fll lnfuttnoltiUII
c
',~
htlllllll\
".....
lt\1 I 1-4 Ulo h .ftorn nt'l l.l M~ ,,111
MNI\urr 8~(, lt-n I lot itkh IIJ.~o~.l.
...
'<I,
0'1-
n.'l l.t. ltc, urd.
\ It;>
#OJ!('
1/8 II
"i
~
'
ucr
IIIli
''"'',
,.
!~
,...,,,f)
fht
Cllllt'l
llocltd lu' ~
IJ,Jcl. (.111 .lhu l111. ldt Ul~'ll wl~tn
1'''"' lt\tU
110
.,,
fQ.~etbtl
old ~ u-~ 1tw I.'Cho:t t.D-
Ulc" roD IO'tiAar
tlllu,.. ....
'- "'h 'cnlt'f lmal llato tb:' "'~"'""
t'"clttro~ndl' l...n ~hl' told TbU pbl:t lhl'
r oil a-4J.lr on oa trcw kb 'Acwft'
..
200
,,
Cnoplet 10
COLLAR DESIGN VARIATIONS
Built-Up Necklines
IUilJ.UP NlO\.IS
~
_,......,
............
..,.-UD eoo.ou h , .
Ao.ncMd .._, lciNI
~lond~Qrll
SELF-EVAlUATION TEST
\l:acdr cnlumo I ""llh ll'lf rorft(l '"'"'"' ltnrn colu.rnn 2
J.:f\ "'"' dw th,per chc-tt. '<JIUI n orr nn prt:t" )lfloli
((lfumn I
( otumn 2
I C:tiJLI('~
ft.l't\: fuf ~011.11 :and )IOind
2. '-~d.l nlf cufl-'1 t"df!
lkdun ~oll.u\ cd.K\'
3.
RolJJjn~
'\C"\dl."'lto th.tft
wll~l\
-1. C.:llll.\1 \land
S. VndrKtltl.u
\tWfiiU nt('J.
Qf J;.lllllCill
6. k-~lkJinl l'Oit.Jr'\ t\JK''
lolltw.' nu"'t' o( lilt' nt.'l.kll n('
7. l..lJC'I'rt' mflar tods:
ll,u rf'IU
8. fntla~ t'dJ,:I' roth UJ""'"'

9. 1'4-ttr l>an w!Ur
IU Mkluicltr Up tiH'II.IIIl I il iiW"h
I I. '-\lint- m'l'oi\Uflii'N nt
1l ..lanlnn to!Lu
U. (tlf'l\crhllk u.u.,
1... '-.oOIK~nmhl~t(lt.r
lrkll"''>t'
wUar., I'CI,I(r
"\tll'1trll~
rl lhk
\t) lr tl'f I hr t hiJ,u

t ~,,,,.,., " " ~ 111,, ..t.~w 1\ tn!ll.llikd
I ~oilluu I t ~ 141.u
IJun , ... .._
lnrl
lt.t~.w ulllnr
llrt.cht "' """" 'll.or
t'datt
choprer
I I
202
Ch(Jpleot II
Pollorn P&ot ol\d MoNpu~onon
F'Q'.t~2
ro.--o 1 rroot
BUILT-UP NECKLINES
( \It 1.1.-.,., Unr
hum _\ 10, not tluoodl, PQCnl 1

,,.,. ... bn f'l'pa lind*~ 2 'nrhlti !wotunTr..:\' nd l.td l't'Otn hont 1~ c..
11.1!u ouuJ n11 hetnt hudlc"t' jl;l.lttm
l>uJJt-up '"" Uut~... t'\ 11.11,1,,t('M' tIn- t~J't' 1.# tiH' n" l.
~lli.l rnu,.r Jln,muti<'J.IIl" ltM' r-)'I.Jtkn c1t lht JM't L \
M.u l: A 2 hh h(\ dli.'Wtl fmm nmu t l(ltn
II
Mllrl: II l/2 I nth In flu"' ll~d .11 \hC.il.lltkr

l)raw UII\'<XI \.l;t\h lhlol' hom A tu 8
~Uf~ ko~ .ud tl ~11\' I I 11K'n ~It' 1 ~\l..,\k I\ f'h

"' 00,11
"""""'~ Jlllln~M' '\llh tht t~~_w.tfo
lfiCtlr..- !I .1nd \CHn l'l.lrW' tll.:~o~n tl. l1 tllf:'f l\l'l'
c-.&n lor~~'""" Jlfl\ p-..nt ;dflf'l,l: lht
I
.1nd rn ''" twl11 \ddtd n"lil'lfn "pcntlk\1 .J.klf'~
d k(ldl ..... ~(lf.JbulltUJ1 ll('(i.IJnt' 1hkAikM' lht
ntd.litll' "'fl,;t ~, .11W .&~'>)'\ fnlffl the' nn:l. .1nd
~ Cllll tht pfTMfll Ul rwwu'flt )lrUl htwn Ilk'
nt'l;l,,. fow".anJ Jll"'WIIIOft 1hr dc'\-.iOp'nl'fll 1.. lhh
nrc- (Ill nUU'It u "" "f''!!kUon ol t'r1nt1,.. I
[).ut \ LlnlpibUclll'lt"'1wn l~ft"""ll\1: d.irl t'\1..'\'\\ IU
chr I'!INU.rwl Prlf""''* ! \o.kk\J lullnn'i""hm
~., cht rutttm\OIIIthnd. ltft..~ utttw- \Pf"'
,'*'
._,
"""'kJ'
f'OWI
nat h'Atuwn oltM ''rr' '" nKlhnt I.kin;(' rr in

chakd an tht' .,.,.runiOfb. t\fo"" *-"'t 1.-u-.p t;ln
br tt~ .n Ctl;qlftr l fJ.. I
'~l
'
<
i
Stovepipe Neckline
Ooslgn Analysis: Ooslgns 1 a nd 2
1 ~At~m.b .11)0\'\! the n atural
n cdtlhl t In h v n t am i ho~d:, wilh w~ rn_,. :at center
lm tll ~1kl 'en tel h.H."k. Ot~lgll 2. h :J )U\ll:li~~ fll(lb llfu .
Ilk rwc:kllnl' o f
11t~IJ.tll
'9Jo41Qongs
Flgvres 30. o
~11.11<' ,,
\hutt lin\',
llr.tw .t , llr\'l"'tllh t\' IU ( :mtiiO ;\ ,
llhmd .tl ;\ 0\nd II, NtiH,h ( I I I{Uil' tb),

Cu i from p.lll(ll,
"'
I'Lkt '""'" J"Mnt (If pr~ouc:m an t\>ld '" 1br f"o'i'<t
CA.nl hllll' line 1 l /21 mhc' Uft hum t'IOint IJ .uhl
h)("\' n"Utn..- hwfl tcfll('t h\--.ru tl,l 1 .,_b d.""'"

'"''n ft on \Jll.-.,l\kt
lt,(nl,O\<" J~lh"ff'l 1\r~ ~he k.'I1(11D N,i:\' J"''"Uri
t\1t h t ilt' OC\ l..)uw "'-~~~ h 'f1'1h1 tl\-.:t IW'('t,_
~~ ~~ 'l.lll. \ ,1 flf'\"1J~IC'KII(kt ,.., df<lh a

s~ktii'W' '"""''""' ~-it'' '-''11ft" 1""' "
[\ttflJ (ffllt'l N> 1. 1 uteh
'"""''
l~torlll o~nd toqull-'
Pot1o1n Plot ond MonlpvtoUon
Fw-3 Foong
FigUre 1 Ftont
Tt<KC' llJ.Ut'Jil, ""''"(<'trlnK 112 lu<"h ol tht< d.1rt
rr~ot~ rM-<l. .uu. on
fold, t'f'ldti'\S 1 1nth h ('m &
lk1J\IU\~ p.ltt('tn [k~ bottotn ('(!'!:,( pan..J)cl Wllh
m'('klln.-.
t'\Cto\\ It) m\d fM't'cl.,
I ).lfnd <"tUtt hC)nt '"'" '- l/ 4 \mh and \C.l~lf a

1-honllnt. l.;;tK-1 A ;~~nd mldl-hOUkkr 1\
SquA1t- a lin~ 1 l / 2 10\ht'\ up h o n' R, t'l'dln~
JH lnrh out from \htMild\'1 I~~~ C
~hnt
)Wl. c 1 ! indl from A

rn"'l'n c; dr.t" , 1 1 !-4nd lint llltlw p:uldtllllf'
LatorinO.
on." .a C'U"'f\t III'W' fWIk-1
"'''h the' nf'riJior

trom D 10 1 .and rn_om IJ tn \houldt'lhnr
WJ .a llnd'l ntM~ CW'Itrf t\ld kll dowr<'
.1n.1 aurl. noccfwol.
-'-'0
inc:tl ~ pl'tll <.

Nrol ltflkl"" ~ll("ln
piUJift tlllil'l ntd,!iftf ~
Ttxr" ahr Nc:l. jrtm'l I
quU~ ..._ ~ ~tffiLf
()r~-A f.aa~') f'dl:t

'-'Mc:h .at p.lll'lt r ;end "'tft b.1d
()nw (Wfthnt .tnd ftift!(lltt( J'lltrt'n J(lf tnt ,,,
, , . 1-.
,- .,~
1 314
-
.
caru~not~
:o
c . ...
..
...._...
Burii-Up Boieou Necldlne

Dotlgn Ano!y$1$ Designs I ond 2
nw l'lfd:llllt of ~" 1"''~"b "~"" oatd ltnrn m..J.

"'-ookkr .and ttntc-r lront of rwd, fxn from tht
dlft " trJ;mfnnd to ttl< nnl.bnt to .-II<Jw to~m lot
F~gote
lint\ ,, an\1 C. ~lntl. notd' ,ll point 6. Utrolen
lht n~"Cl. hhl(h lUI\ (f)f\\.ltd ~IJ:tl 2 h IOCfutJnl

tor i'Jrlltlk:t'. [)l'uRII Mhtr \'.lr'IOUN'Ith
l>r;lw nH~IInc, bltmlln.): cut\~1 lint' wim \(lU.l~
lhw lndlc;att' ml,~tin.ll p.lll\' m .l
foH .O.,hiiOtlJI
prtl
Cut 1>-ltt\'rn unm ,,,lptr.

fiQutO 2
llend ond nQICh
'\
8
{JoMt<,.
lrlm
f9naoc.
1~ Ntt patwm. ~~or hiH of ttw
f.Wit'~ 10 \ht-rwd.. ~nm6 . . t!ot

~.aw ln lolonJ: tht thOull:kr 01 -.sot ~
'40ft bid JM''~ pl&'t ~..
()n-w .1 IU'Kh ~ \U:'L ~ho.
8UII.T-uP NEOQJNES
207
Inset Bond Vorlotlons
,~
INSET BANDS
Des.lgn Anolysls. OOslgna 2 ond 3

Oc-\l~n 2 h.-' n ln'tl hand thH comn to .1 ~1m ,n
nt,r hunt ""'-lt"unt" .lte'l\md to c.;t'lllt't N~\. t)f.
Y. ~
'l.gn \ '' Jhtn ,., .1 llf-'<"tl..t' Jlluttkm
A~
~~
~~~&re
~1
l'lcWnt~.L~
Oesq1 Mol>.... Oesqll
~ ~ ~ lbt onWIM '"

dw-<TC't'd::r'~ ~
..t ~
...... -.,.,rt biAI
w""""
-"""""" """'-
flifi'A lhr' 11.t,..llnt'\\.'fl f'.Xh U\M11'UOO SUr1

tnt I 1 ! h''l.! Ukhn ln'lm 1'11<1 IT001 Mtd ttn
In .......
\: M' Uw ln\lnKht'lfU fOf ~ 1 .1nJ I~ tllu\tl;ll
t.x'l~
th.lt fol~ ...._ .:v~ for dt\dop1~ the'
~Utffl"-
........
'QJ'!'.
Trxtt.I:L..U~~(.~~nl(ttht""-1
.an-~~~""'"'
P\aR' tbt btlnl m bid ~~.aM flr~ tht

otdJ.'f'k Jlllld bln4. ~ ..,.,,:~~~ n .a~
lrOLtfl .ll;nn IDotott arf..'Nl f"''.lem
.,.rt ,-.."of
Cvt ~ !!"!Xtt :mm n4 ....._ f"11tm'- &~

un~~or. ~ "<\l.:n nw
t!W'
troot.rnJ Ntl ta.~ n_-.m.f6~n dwdn..,
f-31
t1.1t da~h lu"K" U'l not th.~h. nKl.ll.llt' ~e.

M.k~ J'IIUrn\ (lon J~JX'f .,,h cC"ntf'l
front on (Qid..
S(l'.ad t'.l.._h wttClon I ... tnch .lnd .ldd liZ in<'h at
1tk \l~kk't' 1n t f f l ) ' ' tht 1\('( ll!nt' l"dgt.
Fqnl
~.I llftt'h t''lt'ftWOII Jl n"niM ~ fOI ('k'!'iUI"t'.
Otll'l\ f:13nthr~
ora~ p~w.hn(': J64 "C'~ ....s n..~.t..::~
.)(1'-'
'l('.lmi .and complt-1<' for
~'
tA.CI. &AND IN$1
I/A
tn~
c=i0
!'
qw;ad Nr.i. ~~ '"'!'OC.~ ~
TrX'(' tront i."Vl tllkt

rlc;tr ~:t('m h.'l
1\'1 Ill
'l
\l;~\h and
'
I!' eo"'loon
t("A :
uxn-
COWLS
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'213
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COM.$
Poffom Ptor ond Monlputouon

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Pottorn PIOI ond Monlpulo llon

f9J' I
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Deep Cowl
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Oe>iQn Anotyols O.olgn 4

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Des i g n - oe.>gn 3
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ftgures I and 2
fqur <II
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Fogures I and 2
M;ut.. 1\ 4 lnc;htc. "1, horn
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figure I
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R.k nd ;a n.u'\~ lutf btl"'('("'' fh'lflt .1nd l'Kl-,.. '"'
~)r.,.., alaf'Wc.onntoetm~~htt:'-""'' an4bKt.\haul4u t1po. l..tld O.L
().L.
liDt CC'f'II'W'rt!llt ~*'"+'a ':lpl. t..t_..c
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Ut'\f('l I (htT'iJirr..,LkY t _ ,
~ ....S ~ :11
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to ~ lt. ~ tltotft r.:-~ -\44Jn"-.b ~
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(llthtn I!JII;" 4nbftl.j
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~~
wmt
Or a lnt "' pc.m. 0
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- ...
Design Anolyw De"9M 1 2. 3 . ona

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-a.
COMS
Fq..ne :2
l(')k11htJUIJ\'I 'w:I U.U\' .a llllt.lt lilh 4 lilt' hl\ ~n

hCifll lht' hold
( ut
\ll\h
fQJ3
li.~ tbe ~kkrbnt
\lsrad t'Mh W< unn 1 I " ~nthn or I'I'IOft' lt

\hwkkr P'ol dtptlu, kqltn~ uc:h wrtiOQ on
ltlt" NioJd nt Sta.l:e.
linn tu, llhlthuoulth. lh<"--llokt
l'l.llu \lo."'(li<n .\ft on .1.11\.k:lmt' .tnd u-m ..r hn'!ll

~ paut1n. too,h!n 1<41.1 li1w ll'ut of
cUn
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1\t
lfKto WI~ (ol t~ pa' 'ttD
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.a J)llr.alld .:uH.klint' Z i~ l~n n from ~ '"""'"

1
and JOin <'C t:teh
'{"'~~ wn~r..n Min~~
S\'('Uft f\IUtrn \f.:~Unn'

hPnl. f'\lll" thh~lth ('lltlt1n ""'UIJft\.
\\.11.. ~tnot
each ;'ut..a.nnta tbt ll!W'\ ...

"* ~"~rttw~~n
olJwmtiW\oadt'nd~cmrn
...
--
n.c!Jo~~
01.- paraDrl -
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-~
Deoign Anolysos
-'
~n I tu' ll'o () plt,j,U iU \hrn.lhlulmt With th'l'

""""''' ckpch IDo\1{ tho! bu\ tlt\rl
'
Panem Plot ond Mon!putohOn

FIQIJe J f ron.r
TtJCP from p.lllt'm aoct ~oqu.m .a ' 1.1\h Unt ttun'l
tht cmtn hvntto r-.;,., Jnnl bu~ lol"\dt
\ brl. A ht~ ~ t ht ntd . nd bu\1 ._...,f'l
\l.atl. 8 Jl mld-1bouldrr
' t l a
\&.Ish 1mn. .wb '~nr llrf~ftTI
llf~ htw trrwn
On"' 1111o
potm B.ancl ttw YlnUIOrt tr(l .and md;ftJ bt1wun
f'OIOI ,, nd t'Ju'-1 Sr\d
(.Ul
tt.t- P'"~ t1.-.n PIJW'f
~ A-1 ltnr for
..-~
-
f.g...r I
tor pka.t\.
~" 1t~ PJ".ttfft_
~~ '\~
Pleated Shoulder Cow!
225
226
ChCJptet
COWlS
12
Porto~n
EXAGGERATED COWlS
hdkf t'o'IWf, .Ill l't ~flllH'IJ 1\\lh~MII f!l~'>ll' h\
~~~nJt.IU'JC ''"" runrrn h. n.mtJ tht ill; I ..qu.lh' IIrk: "'
CTI'IItf fmtiL lht I\)'C' elf Jt~l,(!l mllllll.'' .. ~moil
lbt nl~l llrlc flk' (1flfoln- ~tl~~:rrl hoi\ U\4:'111" lk\dufl lht """'~'~ llhnrtJI~ ho.tn,-u:r .un JlroiUtrn
Mt'"""'nt('lll N~'td~o~J
j i ll
({lollt,' IHUIIh ll( tWd, llii.'J\llrCtYK'11H,
r9' 1 rtOnr
""' " u'!ot\1
Hogh Exaggerated Cowl
PfOf ond Monlpulollon
F~gu<e 2
{-Ul ,l,nh lhtt'\ lfnm t~nlt 1 lttmt 11
Uh' \kl\'1 lllld htnt ,._1111
' nm thrnul(h
1
tklWihtt.L.lr tl~l(' l.iJW'
hot~. I- tlk' 1'-l'k '""'' ctnpht> hodiu ;.nd tnldriff

lth.lflh:J Qj_
t \lt'tkl .1 lmt u 11 fmcn temtr front nL arw.l
"IUm .1 hnt- l inch JA'Ifl\(' \houkkrJ'I'llt'-1. ~tl-1 1 10
00 -ftiUfth nt tit'( I. UIN~IH~ nk'-IU pfu, 1/.. in<h.
"MIU.Ih t.iuM. n I() \.h~'llkkl flkn.J 01 Clll\ nJ In~
tnUh Uw \hnuldt11UM". I .ott \ .11kl R
Ut.l'n \b\h Utlt'1.. ntth ~ Wsh l1nt' ~tuh'd to
l' loK(' till lh\' IM!l!:f ,md 'IHr'"-.1 '-'IIUII\
tiiUI I\1-'I fUll II\\\, . , \h4.IWU
fiQIIJ',. 3
I 't.lrl('rrJ1fd p.mtrn \h;a
klo.ntlhCoi1Vln
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1"""
~ nbtk' lor I:JW\
flf \.Jf\ lct
lr.Kt' lht !M.IIIill'l.: nf lhl'll.lllt'cn
llln' Jl'(IIU
{ Ul HIC' f'lllt.m ho..n Ilk" p.lpt'f
,.,_..,
0
..
FIQUf9 4 80C\c
hau t ht h.l'k
M:ut.. 1 hh It 1111 fnlll llw \ltuuldt'f/IWt l.
MIO'Itff
mldrlll
~ l Ull It' llnr full t <ctllt'J I Y~o I. tnudtln.j; _. m.\rl..
l'tllllll U
l t,~t I. t'tll l~''' ht~ tu .11111
mlth"uth of nt<tl. rm.lnllt'lth 111 1tu'
1/,.lm.h.
I fm' I Itt fumt Jnd b.tl. ~hc,u ltkrll ll t'l
n r.iW a ~1>11nlhu ;\rldt '"" l'h'h' l'' 'h'lfl 1u1 h 'l 111
221
e>
~" utltt._t S1IIIWW lt'llh' l lnltll hclii.IIW lo!Uiht h,~u1t.l

lh' )('tlllt.'tl" llh twllll,ll \1.' 1.11t hl,.ltflhll\'\1 kn,;lh. '"
ll't' t'l111it l(i lu1lll ~llht'f\ In l't.h r
COM.$
r~guoo 2
INSET COWLS
IMtl(r
''' li an t .. cJr\oltlftN cn .Ill\ IMXUu. l{lf ~ 1 . t lil \llllililll:llllt~'ftt \ m \f\fcllnf' tOI\I i fl.lot'l o n IM' <k-
W.,:rk"\1 f<lf J"''ll"'~ ot ltl ~lrtK'Iiolfl l hr H"'' tt~\\i I \ ~ l'lljlt\1 ..nd di-lf."'o tl'lll rq tf'Mul .11 C"umph'4f' ~l.lltf'rn.
fl.ldJ)'II t'flU Jlf' llC)I iJIU\.Il ..IN
IIQI.I"A l
l (;h \' HIC" ln\tt o O~'> I "''l.t lull\ t'll I hi l\ n! Cr tof II
ln~ott
cwrduiJ"'ft'f tllo
\0.1111111.' Hlk"l , il lld jlllloC" ,ol 11 ,1!1\1 liM UlhH

fUll' ! (.:KII(hhlJt U
V fnse l Cowf
K'
l rw..llt' th1 \II tlk,mu ntM'III o n flf~ kit.,., lht
t),~m ;: ;llllJ i ,I IC" l n d w.IN ,1\ flll o

U11Ct' f(ohkm ,_. " ""' II~ I(IC'!o(l fN.IIlC&..tlo n
l>11w ~ llot .tlon~:. tht m k t h o m h
~~'"'"
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w .\ '" n
229
.t\
~d U't l~l)lr on lht' .\-.8 lint". Tr~ OM' JQUtm

l lt.tM ~ 1-1:1'\(,h lint ~1o111lci \'\'lt h the- .\ 8 hl'lf' f('o\d
tho: '--B l.uM:' lt~a: thr .,h<JU}dn
l'nk >ld and rnmrolrtt the- 1-.u1-rn.
' otnp1~1 t the- '-1..sw.11....,n lnd f.ciO(
....... ,
,._
Cowl~ dr;~p. IIC''I
I . wt~ n '"' t)tl bl.h
l b. bU ~~nr... "Tt'C: ~
2.
I "'. c~ hrt.-rn M orw \ak

Hl hAnt, tn 1~ :..dl
Wlh'IIIUI Oil l t\W hf;t\
.I. whnl Hi1 cm.uw ttl.tl

C'oni Jtl'
wwl dl'tlth
10
n .u t 1'\n'"
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l 'lnnln~ .11 dliKJkl, r
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7,
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!11)1SICIRCI.1$ ANO CASCAOES
231
INTRODUCTION
Skirts/Circles
and Cascades
'""'"""~
131
~ SltW1 ~tll)lrr6
SJIOr!T"
rHcyq.la. ~(laM; -.-.11)
~"~~
~
"'"*""' ~
_....,.
SIIJii'IOWI:~
R.EnUYOI 5llllf DA1M
~AJSl' P'.PI'$
132
m
ill
132
21:
,,.
nl
230
2lt
no
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..
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,.,.
a1
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;, \},Itt llh outtt \.h<.IJ'I!.'" ...,,ltw...t
27<>
tn
Aeoltl(l S-.rl
~t.O to~ -Pteoi.O 5'f
270
281
2n
J,j AIO.Rj
284
284
""""1$
=
'J:
wrooSOtwfhSO.~ .~
Al-n-~ Wap 9o.l

CIJ.S. Pl't.UM.S Af.tO CASCA()($
!,..
21!'1
../~
.\
')II~
''"
,.,
,.,
>1.$
dfot.alhn,_tt\ ont of tht fOCll
SKIRT LENGTHS
;>.1.$
i"/
'~"'to \t~h'~
213
01 , . ,
*"
IOIOOY
~-.~
..,
~llhut.t<'ll\' l~t
.,
Atoll
~\tri(JI'!On$
til('
tk'\lltllt'l'l. ""h0 Whh tO (hlll\~t tht 1\'"Jk. od dll(.'(liun ~ (nhltwl. A. \\.an .... ~ ~SiC \l'~pe hlfll:,\
!>U~I~ht hom tht hi JIIhtt tu the. h~m h to~dlt.all' (hn~:.('l.l1l) lrM.rU\Inlt, nf dKTt.blnc, thr ,:wttp o1 tht htm
lin(, men l!lJt tht \l.lr1 o:i\\011) futtn o-1 tktt tti lh\ lt.gut\". mt&l\ln,t olnd ~tonn~ the: lUI\thnt'.
211
113
....,...
~,,$11!
hanJtln~
J'l01n1'1. fC\r
.271
271
~'4'1
eooocGoot
MCtoMR
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(m<lll\oQh)
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"
1,.,. "'''Ill
k>'
""
.._,.. <t"V
PoggOd. or Inver too Troongle
FOUR SKIRT FOUNDATIONS

ffl jo( 1,11 ftM!I
'-~~~~ ftll.lfll~!lflfl\
rtw ' "''' t.-1ot ' ' lm.utl hum h lr lt,l td hcmhuto.
lhf' pqr.ltt'\1 lllttu~tw mar lit llk"\t"d lw tOCJ('.J~
I Ill \\,11\t ltd hlft lulh W\\ tor b) lolf.ll.tlng ftum II~
h-'\ \f'lo!\lfk
rumc rh;,l ..,_ ntHk'' ~~~ 'llhll.lt'Ut- h t\ tht .lfllunt

u1 ll" t.oU"!I If onl tho
\! 111 I h.ol dl tc 1rnhll''\ lhr
,.,.,tl
l'l<"''o
\tlhiiiKih
Strooghl. or Rectangular. ShOpe
(Bosoc Skort)
hlftll the hun
Boll ShOpe
I,.., \l~rt (lint to th lla..ur('\' un'n .11, .tbO\'t', 01 IJto.
tlrw tiM hlp ,mtJ !HtAh 111141 llult.l nMJ\c:mtnl ~lon~
,,.,.. ho mliiM"
1br oJ._,,. h.tlt" II.Mtltt itum turfJrlor to~'" mlln
A-Shape. or TroonguiOr
'Ow o1ut l.alh "' trum !l'w hip. IWt,.. out o~tl thr
hrmJ tilt 'll'ftl'l. H tl'lUL.II
..nJ Ruf'd ~---"' l!kkalrd'" lhi\'{Jilf\;
tktl'hi'W 1.111(~111;, Uk
SKIRT CHARACTERISTICS
\ln tt tlo""'nht..J in ltwn <~ thr foltl,.tn~ thttt'
,IJ(',II\
, , '""' lht "-kllh ol th(' ,..,,, ... ~~~~~\f ,.t11111r,.l ttl.: ~~~~~) ~ \l..ht' lullnn\ tc~t\. tn lht
m.l'lt"tnC'nl uf tl)l """"
flw /tJ,,d ,..~~Jf tfw IMiinl " hkb the d.in
"" ,.h "'""') hvm the lM1(J} lnln flu.id mmdlw-nt
FLEXIBILITY OF SKIRT DARTS
........
HIGH-WAIST SKIRTS
oll '
llw ''-ht \k"IKtl ,.\t,nth .u '

IIlK 1"- j~hl\ <ibl.l\'('
tl w n.-t m.ll uo~l\tllnt. "''' '""' h>U!l\l"tlun h ,,.,v
\t'l~l tl(' a nd 1 .ml14' ~~\ljl.l k'\1 il\ h1f"- \\Uh t~lt.lh,
J:.'''''
Pu3ponng the Sl<nt

ro~to
1
hu .md .-..tti.,S(('I\Il"f bnn 2 1 r.! l ndlf'\.. l .ltiC'l A
Ulp ~~\h:nh. ~l'"""'..t .ausnmy: "''h \ht- t'\"'''""

o~nd \l\lor ~"'""' ''"''htn~ Df.a" Z ln~.hto. til th t
''dot "-:.;m, t..bd a
ll""' "'hnot hom ~to 11
.-n
IIi! It'. ,,, tbwtl

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lUI\.\' f(tf tk\t ~l~ll)l; II" \UI\1 lllh h tt t"'oll'l"'i"l h
Itt \\~>tn u\t't tollk 1 ~IIUt"! l h h) t .. i\lllll IWIK,h l
~nt,tt\1 bt-t'ft't'm at~
tk ..,., "t"rtk .. bnn
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on
2 11'1
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t ut ' ' " ' ..un, lr(lnl ''"''
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I '"- "t~'
th e JMih:rn' o~ml tf,l(t

the f.tt l n,~t b h.ulttl .lf
'' ) )I- RNIIU\ '\' l "'fk't :md
u t th e l:td n &I'" H'Uh.
f iQUIO$ ~. d
U ow ll.~tt" 11t thl.' b:d
JMi h: m , ll \lk" J m l b h:m l.
fiQUro 2c
1'1..\~' pJp~r lll11.k>Hk'.tl h
l lllnl f,Kin~ (lmf()ld l'dl
FIQVIO 2d
t um partt t i\C' p.lltl'fl"'
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fq.n20c>1\
hll"-"' ll\\".twh m~t IN-tt ..r:ul.t
Ut;,t, 1"-u.lll'-1
litk-.. 2 l fl hu.ht" bdo "
liH: lo''''tt'\1 \\<lhthn..-.
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"'" "'' 11-' itl\h ... lh\'

111:'" ,, ..h t, hem l h n _h
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~y
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dart
k(\ ''"' ~~ollki th th.. n1tt tNod ncJ I rom
c ut I a
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fit
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lnm t -4 1n.. h 11\ltn tht.: ..,Jt ..c-.am....
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p.tllt'fll\ Otllll
;~dd ~~"''; 'tot't' l l,g
111\ltuOkm t ''' hvm I~JK'' !llf.:\llf 'b-
"
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Oo:J
r~~u 3lop S.JO

With l,htic lott IIIK tt;c,ht \Itt! o~nd \o.1m unf.,ltlnJ
lhtiii)J'It ,., IIJl \hiJf' \fK htth lkw Wol)\t .,.1)4,1
tht l~llh H4 Ihi' IIIII It I IJ.I htc h llum t 11!11
nnt~h lluld In IIIAU' ~hllr \lllthiiiJ[ 1/ Ho hKh
IlUIII lht IIJ'IJ:t \ hi' lh tid \tilth Alf>IIJ[ tilt NVT
fi(pe d sr,tcr.ono rt~Glop SttfYn
rlnn Ill( tl.ut holltt- IIJtht '+lo.t. .llldt .. I"JC' tht /lf'l oo."
I'IMt tht 1Hkk'C1 ._.,. \ol.lm tM.I "'-'lth ,,,.. tll''"
nootc.h ~" tlk lttt Uut
I'm '"' hr.l\h f In l~t ""'' illdK"'" ""'"'" tiM'
w n~Jtot .1nd I Inch 10 htm
l\11 f)UI1th./C"It\.k-1 .JI It"- d.m\.
( 0111Jll't'lt' liM: J~Utm lnfurm.,.Unn
tJittll>fll IJ'flltl tiiJJI ('IMh \hhh ~ J1t Ju .... itKh

p.:nlll tu H tr""-1 lu~oe hun 111\\l 'lih h .,,.,.,
1/-4 i""'h fw-.. M lht llj'f..l \IIJl) IJ..Ml, ~Ill< h
ltfllltlh 1/2 hHh k~\ lhJfl W..lhl mt'.I\\UtfiWfltut tfW U 11 I .fd

I lnc.h .sd\kd IU tho Wolhtl-..nd ltnl[th I" IIIC' hutton If bl..t' ~he*
\\lldth 2 1/2 lm h;-.. lhnhht\ 1 IH hK.h._.,,
Woii\H~<,~nd
f \h:II'!-IC)II
FIQU<G f
PREPARING ZIPPER AND WAISTBAND
p,.,,
0\w~ oc rt1Cf.l1! '"" "" am, In ,.\totd \Uh,hln.l!

tht ~lill4.r/p.ll l.lh, lit'"In "'ith tht 7IJJ~tr hJ)I.'n. \I itch a
\hOC'I dt,unc~ tht-n dow tl'l ''r'Jll1 ..nd Ct1f1fln\W v~U\)1 l'ln m IM\h' to hohltlfllk'f lu pl3o\:t', II t\t(t,.).aty.
Afl tr tht Dpptl I~ tt.l(ho1J. \4'ttll1 tht ,, Ill, thtr\ \HIC-h Ult' \1-olh ll),llld.
I n ld Jl.lJl'('l I\'IIKIIH'ol\4.'.
;\ It
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'"
ll'IIJ(Ih
(:,..1)
I luth
1~1.
I(~ llliiiC.h \ldl'
\~.11\tbMld
F<gu; 1 S"cN-9 0 WCOOO l(lC>4<

'i-lttdt
rnt.,
t-..d.
"'"m
BASIC WAISTBAND
Add 1/lltkh toll ~nl\eu~ If~ irKh to
the.
-
,,
J!QU:e 4 C~t"'Q mo Pot1em
.......
I 1/
'
Wolll\~
lwm lwm 111 llppl'f
notch nrl ~L 'Ill' h
f'r6\ thl \otm ''~~"'

On ~II \idl ~~ 11~ f~hnf pbc.,,,,,,., 1).11.L r.lpptt St~ rKt I lttW
Fogu<e?
th ttJ) (lf!p"'
''' .tllknlnc
tht u-nltr n1,11 h
\t1llh II It, mch lrlfl thf tt"T'Ih ,,, ,n,,.,.. u .. ,,,,,, r
dt.jt ph\.11; rid ~lhh oll<of!i' the /lf'lllll t-ol,;:t
t.ippt'l tmh ""llh
fQ.JfG 2 EOQo; f
' 9J"ft '}
\t..un\- 1/2 lllc.h

NHh h .11 I .md (
M.,.rL buttunlbulllll
h o1l' "" irh hUll hum
'+llhhUm
,..,
'
lurn l'IJlP'I ' " " ' ' ' ' "'tJ "'1~ "''' t.
ftQUfO
'
( Ufllj!lt ll tl ",11\ftt.tlkl
l)r,m Jtl.tlr\IIUt
t-
SICtR'1SICII'KU.$ANO CASCADES
FLARED SKIRTS
SltiChinQ Guide
hrW' tniMIIdllj: let tht" rcl!kl II flit rot 11.r ,\.ll,dUI1>1
r~ lo 0~ !'Mhl\~-~,.
r.....,,..xntund"'hu-c:
,
"'
-~
'tilth ,\ttL
~~~U.Ittht<t'\1C'!l\k'lll \tltthll~l.'l.lll(ll Jllht'OII""' ('nd
,..... rhll'll 1 ~n<.h ul "~l\ll"'nJ f'd.l:<' tfl(\ttt I;~).

1 1
Turn n~ht ....sr C"U1 ,an.l pn-. tlu:u"' '"''
-.
,..,
lht' hc-mUtW'. l l.ltt'll ,J.irh hAH o1 llli1111:\114lr

\.IUW'IU\1H.
Design Anolysls
l'ht \htw \.111\0lK'Ut'
~----312
,...,
~\\('("J\ 01
A-line Flared S1<1rt
-n
~--
rill" n.."'' \l..ht "'-'''~'\ Jflllll\ \ l'fh'ldtlt. l).ut ,~

lllf'-'--Uon l(bll t\u~~ 11.111\ll'"'"' In the ll('mllt~o~l
<'twl l'hdt'~' !. \\~1~-d t uUm"'" hl lnuuw th('
''or~- In "hlc:h ttw> ht:mht-.:

fnol.'.a\Uf\"'\ jtfUIN tlt.~n Uw hit) rhumdt"l\-nc.'C' ll ' '
,)(hk'\f'd b\
lf.IU\Itu1e~
11\ol:
t\tt'\\
t'i
tll\lt
cbn IC'I
lt't' IW'mluW' <and l'!l .a..klin ~kith .at tlk" \tlk ~.~m.
u
'-1-------
r~ tf'\Uit I\,) nMMf' IC'Iuntkd cfh;'\1 .lkw~ lht hnnllllC'

'""'pur~. Mit\ iktdiiM'lll1.tl \.ltkk t~'lfn
-~~-
FQnflc. 0 A-~~~ ~'to"'I

\\ tlh n ..IU Jldn (.a..1f'"t f"'tt dw ,.,l.!nt\ai'J .u~nd th( ""J\tiU'<'. nut,.hln,e tlw rtl'ttl'f t~l.lle' tf'$Utl' ~).
Slttct\.1\kl"lf h t.tw ".lttNrld .II C'.aocb C'n.J tl t,t\lft !bot
...... ,.
'
.,
PoHom Plot ond Manipulation

~.. 12
'
Wl
.,
fr.k"Y fwnl .:u~l ~ .. b,a\1(

kngth ,md twm .. tt.~Jtkt
rrtftnn1
llr.m \IOl~h lint.~ from tht' c1ut pthH\ trw.at't'\t

\Ilk w.llll\llb h1otnllnt> Jmltt.ar,)lld wllh unttr
lint' '"t~et A ".ul\1 c: n
I'"''
( ut hom''"-' I''
< ut to, not thnu.:h. d.ut ll\llnh
l'bn. on
1h,~
tMflt't.
f!QUI'ct I
......
f:9$t113o 0 s~,cr ne.O:.;n

f(tlid tile' "'l.!Ub.lnd .tnd JI'O iii2Uft' \'11.
S.llchinthr.cfttctl on u,;tu \tck tn c.ahh thr

h.arl "'~l~.th.1r~ thl;llt\" lb1
'""
'-"'" ' "
~I
fqvte 4 9unoo/9vtt()f'lh0te
Pl""u' ehr buiiOtlho lt ami hutcon J/4 lndl honl
the cmh nf thl' \\Jhtll.lnd.
r- . - -
..c,
ONT
-
~
'
'
239
2-40
Basic Flared Sklrl
ChOP- 13
rIQI.Ifn 4 !XK-If
r.,11t~ter jll\1 tllfiU,Kh
f"J'ft'~f~
1 I<>'W dart ll<l H.K't' 1"'1ll"ff\
1_.1....1
t.~""'" ' o~rkl"
v.u~' h flfn l\'lbl dart to
114 wllnt w thAt .,.uu c n toqu.Jh A- ll Hl.l(<' ul

!fur\! ,l,ill M<m o~!nlfllt Jo~rt tll{'n\ I\ UIM'rl u p
-qu 1!1) u n t.Kh \kJt' tw thl" tll ht-r diHI !tltQ,.t'fl
1
Unl."' flltlnl do~ rt kKI -
n,,.. ,.,
.,_ \11,....,...,.,
hoi'Ct .-t.kllrllt HI \kk \t.Jm U\h 'llf: \, Y, / h "lrUC:
r.,.twt ~ ~m ;~t 1111 m \

\ \ ,,...fuJI ul \- IH-1...,.(" \I JII.
Uuf\~lfllUit' "
l'c-f~>tl (IO!tlp6t1UIJII lfto~ f\l'ltc rU\0 M.Jl.l." ont' \t"t
~""'k--\' "" ni.Jftl j.IUUtio!lfl ~nd" w.a m td l~ttt-rn
\1.1 .... tlw- l.ln-l~n ,..nnt'flt <hornt' th<' t\'pt' ol
'-l..ut ck-..llt-d fulfn I ,._ \ l"-1
()~l'l .JIUIIl' tfo"IM \ h> tlw c.Jfl rnto"-11"''' ,of tiM

h.IJII'M" \ \ tlcfl lt- lntd\01'1 a.twt 1
1-\ ]- \ ~h "'oqWif 1ft fttlfn \ jlf\1 j\,1\t \
~ t*ndon.: '""" ,alvf!J; ht1ft
Oo51gn Ano1ya.ll
,\ flMt-<1 \ \ Il l h41\ 11\Hff' \~'f.'\ IJIo>ll. it\ htmlll\c I holt\

dO\'\ t ht b~\k AUI\(' \lUI .'\11 r.l lh'l. d411l '\ t-u"'" 1\
tr.lln\hul"d to thc- l~o~.tfllln tu IIM.It41W" fl.art Ill" d.Jrt
hnaM- of tht h~cl. ,._,n I\ Klt.lltcr than tht t111n1 an.J

my (.11\1-\t t lw htmlint' '""t'\'JI hurn ''""' ha\ t<l
d1fftr If thl\ d!lhr..-rkt' '' '"" l"quth1f-d. U~t .,.,., cl
lht' 1-tlk- \lt.lln\ ~Ill h.aiiJC \II'M"\IU"11V. lht ""'~
k 11(1h ~Ill bt' t"~\4."" In b) tht OJI'rfiUot. UU'In.thc:
w-~mllnt to ~'' o~nd nut lu
the' pultlkm.
l pol~ 2 .. 2. I l~r..- \ l"'o lbtt ttl(thiiCh ~f(' &rn-1'1
"-a\11"'11'"'-ld ~~ lulhn\'\. .and J'lf\oll-11-tun,f~l uull(
lht' cM--ddr1 ,._ltllwncbHnn CHl I"~ lA \
''"'t:'l'.:t
1 ~
Jon;'""'~oog
IIC.-n IOdOII
'"""'
Pono.n Plot and Monlpulollon
f lgU(M U
I~
lr41C.(' h n nt ;1nd 1'\0K\. , ._ift \.

Dto~w lint"\ fron (lout ('04ill\ to h t'tlllill('\ J;I;IIOill('t
w1th nh;r lhW\
' I~
'
Fq.l!& ~
Otol~ fflr t )'l'"'
I. lr1Jf1t <lind ll.ld thtl WI

on lnld
ltufll'l.trtculun l!.tdnd
hcl. \l.ut w.uut-d
l . (XJthr !)Ml, oir\11 fmnt
\~ 111
M:.Jrnt.'\1. U('J.IIIIIt . " r tU
~""' "" lilUit' \

Dl"' ~1.&mhno~ , ol4d 1111111"-' .and
cuml"*''t tur _. '""" lit
\n- J\1~ 2<i.. fnr tn\tf\lt hflft
nn ttw dl"" 1h.a1 th~ ~.11 llllC" h.n on f!Jir
f~NIIt ~
-r
of )a.lrt
do l red.
2.
ftiM-n.! nt
I'
I
fJI")) I T
fl.Atf.
~-- 01
M Ct..
fRONT
BACK
fli\Sif
V~T
i i
A 0
~
~
~t t I
~
J_
"'
hulh~ front nd Ni~l. -\~~(It J l udt". U$1 nS:

Al ,~ 1m1 unuucuon) t:~ffi
1 " tt.}'C \- l u~ \I,Jn fnr l'tkndlnr h~rmlinco ~~
p.lll t ! +n f-1 !>Ufft J nd .U.
.'
(lllt .tuJt or~~
Cut~ ~.., no31th:...tb din I"'''" "
""" """ ,...,.

! ~pi T!~
BkniJ
Kf'"' httnltM. J\ ~ .
{ulfll.lt !wc'I1Mh ll'l.dfU)Is-0t)('.Jmt .\dd I.Z.

an l .a ...nch hem .\dd ft'nu.omnx ~..m$
....,
One-Dart Skrt Fovndohon

Tht one--dan \l.tn Juund.ttmn tt., twn I uno. tk"'!o'!o t
<k\~k\p n..,., d,!rh "'"h ncwtt) tquAI t"':"'J rw
~'t'qJ and to tttltt t L4rl\ t~t dtn11n tho. hl~ltnc b\
UJn\!\"rrtnc thC'd.lrt t''llt"~ t--l.rrw tht tUn 1""" 1o

dt\doptht pi11M"n the ha'ie tl.ot11t rno.JII'('d
~ c-umpk I\ .I ~l(k l \ol' \nUl 0'\r'l RWMUf~
m<'nh
,.
I
f iPONl
\kuu~ .,fld dt\ Mk>thr dolto f11U' ~ttn ttk
t:runlnd tc:L
\1
u1 Jllhr tM)f hrnn
.\dd onr.h.&lf clthl\ ~t Vo the- !ttflnd t\"

RIO\o~; ~t--hl!f frr..m ll'w ,.,.. k ""11rtl t.KitfJJU
li3rnd ~e w-:arnt '" bpl nt

~ I !- to l. ... nth htm lkM.arK.- '"-1d
rnTI~nnt( V'.IIJUo.
VJ!: he- r-
n t"~' pap:r ,,,... "tt4 n
l1d :.mpktt t..cl~' t
"' !
- -r~
9.. '
. .-
t (V!.
J 4 kzXh ~ ftllaM:!UDCI'I.1
ruil:kt. :"IC" ~ --*'t
'""--...., ~ wiQ 4..- foc;I,C"
"*
>
u:nt~ttl~
"'*""'
1:. ~ 1.-W.c .-.dbklt

::.ddiftt ~~ q~ .. !01 4&..- rccnt-
"~ c~o:~a~ on
1w :::oo 111ft pclUit.,
~..an~ .a 'ltUt'ld lei: ::.ru~: 1 "1 ~
..apwt :M.&d.-!1 q;a:w ~ p:.ablj iQRB toor
4M.~ n.~..., ~ UQl dir.:.
~r-!~t'IQ~~~
f'Lkt llOC\t M tl'lp ft/ tt.c .. P..'INI'l IYU!( hon(
. . . . . . (_!('. ..
Ot\1Ck In tuli 1 I : unul '" f<>r ~h dlf\
.....,,-- rl
J
i
not'\
v.,..,..~...,_!\"
mn ' .n ~ each tkk v.:
'Ill " rut r.
Wd d.tn lnt.l\.11' tilt lhc- hont .ar~ t..tl. 1 , ~~wt

hnn1 clart\ I" bk\.d.an' 2", 1(.-t ..l yo
~y,.. ' ~
lr~ 'rc.ID\ .-lba!,_, pi!Uatl~ dlWt"Qffllln"t dlc"l
t ~ nn '-"".._ bort""'ftft CWor. ;a! ._.., 1
l)f,.. r;dl)r'! ~ ! ~ m.ar,\1o ~. pa,f*t
Added Flo re Sklrl

ftored Skirt Bosed on one-Dart
Pattern
Ponern Ptol ond ~
r'DV''
W ith I" ' "' ' "" ,11 dltlll)i~itt, b ring d .trt k"t: I> co C.
tf,ki!" h o rn \l tn \t L ro....m:ul. ~ rtd rtmo 't' ~teem .
Oe.$lgn Anoly$11
I lk' h u11lhK" , ,,,.,.,fila) lk' tmu o~~ot'\1 It)' ~lnJ, lod
\\ ltlt\n tht Jllllh Ht\ 11;!11\t ollkl 101 d'l\
' 'd ~.un' 110 1 IUlllll'l lltt '-'-''' ~ill hl\t nu.a
c,l iiiOn-~tl fl;~r('
\'''1'
1
""'!"
..l,ul (\'lh..n lt(lnl \ w (
,rl<'t rrl'lfl' ,---.rhrt
........,.
DC
<""-~'mlrl .lt .\ 00 ~rt'
th:.n th h~\k f1an"\\ \ l..ln 1c,nit ,.,,m ~lh
grc-,. ~Wt'f'1'14nlll 1"-mlh~" il l \" nltr-n ~kk:1 l l~n tht

filhtk \ l(t t.JI ..IC' llolllt'rn \huull.l tw m.-k l nr ll'w k't
t t011 thAI t).t('nd~ l lt)'OIKI ' ll<' IM11k \Un\ ~11h .odtod
fl~r(' n.a) IIC"~k'\\~ tnMn~thn thrhnk ~4.1n
\&Jn t11' ft(Wil lilt' ~IU\ ( tl\_k C'"twrt
~~ 2CIC11- nw-Of~''
h lllu~ t ll l"il \IJd o
l"~t<'d k'f1#1h .t~nd .11~""' tl! h"h lut lht hml
(N H\ (Mbf1
r.-unn
r\
Pottom PIOI and Monlputotion
FlgoJ!O I
lr.tC~ \l..ht 1'-llt~m .
,ogt.lf., 3
__../"""
llrO\W ~1.\h lint~ I ~1IX!I t\ Jnd I\

f.gvtO I
/r"T--1
fiQUf& 3
MdiCIS.Il1f:~olmu\lll~ OOt"hillf r.C .\ H"p.tct ll1d
follrl"' AIJIIt' hnlntC11Cif'l\ lt,l hkrw:l mK h4fi'I U1!4

~~~~ 240, IIJ;urn J 1100 <4J \br,. c """'' tf IU..Ht\hO'I n . It h(flt lt If _,.,f,hnor th-. h tht
l.n S.C.'t IUft 2'14 1
Rtp.;u in ..tnt<'tlcm\ " ' dt1.d.lf \\.111 t;,,., t
lhW')
,.~
tun ~; ul tt..rtd
-\1.1,\ '.t~m~ lnllf"'-Jnt; tll(' ~'"'ruJ!It ' "' I'"# 24ft
"''JI
--
~:,2wh ll~ to. n(ll thn~t~~h
'9-'"" 2
...utl.mt
11.1 on tfw Jl'" .md W'~
r.-b ot~ .\ uklx tllf l"llll'rt"
SKIRTS WITH GATHERED WAISTLINES

Twn fathPI\ \ho.luld bt Ulmltktt'l.l hdmt \otnruun~ tl\4> .tn\f"uu f>t fu.Jlnn'>l.k-.tm.i
I,
f.ttHk "tight flnnly nl\t!l IJbrK hrnln th..- .tfnuunt ~ ~~~" th.lt un bt '>tltthnl toto w&m b ht
''ti!lht l"l"lfi<~. \\ill\ tok.t.~tC' ll\;u,.. fullrw.....
!1.
2.
(.()\t (.,utwrln~t hKt~.'""' ).ltd.t-~t~ llrtd
rr.t the' oullm~
Wd It' ,1\.k W>alft..'- .tn...l bkr~oel
Compullng for Gathers
'''"~' Juw
InC hftnhnc" to fi~III'C tltl~
lwntl "'" dr.l.._
L(ft
ftgl)'e I
St~n "'lth tht- Uni\IIC'd lt~th ot thc-lJthf-ft'd 'ltion t.tf'1."Jtn t.,u., ~td c-.. t~ u~m Foe ~1*"- thr
"'.lhlltM hl6ln1,~ l.~o~:h Inth 1.1\.~ ~r ~ J'l'"l"lft10f\.aloltn0Uf1t oltfw ~ .t~ ;~& ~x
lrM u.J.. ouf\ llW hi.J"'I"W"
\"\11'1-t .,.,
IOO.ftt" nft"ditd ... twn
<uUK11t'nl fiJI~\ I' ....sJnl Ill the'
1 Ill to 1 r.uto
W lnd"lot"\ pthu~ lnttJ li> \n..hh nt,[!orft"!oi'>-c: ll:~
l to I r.at10 \llntlw-\ ~tht-rfd lith\ .Ztt t.nchn ~,rt~.- f\11~'
(lr~ VMf11U'k
~~ tht ll1\tNCbt~ "
il\kh. t~> thf- (Cl'\1 of Uw ~n'N'nt
l 112 to I r.Uk M htt~ ptht-t~ 1nto 21) 1nchft ttl'lllJd,rntt'h Pft.ed ~u

l to I I;IUil 7llnth(-... ~th(r(d 11\tc) 2ft U'IC.tk"' t<~.hllfHfl .and r,'ltt\'~.' ~1.
-4 to I r.1UO ICW IJK~ ~;)thtud Into ltt Ill(~ 1thd1M &nd hr:tn..-~-:ht ~
G,.thnnl \lith .aw \'tli\C"t OJrC'd f \ ...,lhou..:tt~l N dundltrUftr:ulu,
"'"'"'
N<L
~ ttM: ~t("fflloll IN Ill

ltkn ruri.Jnt; ti'W hrtt:hnt
hal$ -l.ltl of'l-n-tll(b.1 ,,..,...,
to f~h .and m~~t. ~

hnftlaM. \JJI'~ ~unn !!'
(Pin
~!'t-1
fV.'et 3 t.'()Otvng b' ~ ~ 5-'HO

Brottn lu'f 1ndK.11n wch"" ol -l.n t~l
h.t.o.J;\ t.hr "''"hh rof Utonc
Ot.t" ~~ Ut"l( l"lfl JUt-rn
f{lr ntllthb
'"'t"
('""'"'""I .! U"k:h
:\bl.t' .t ""P''I.ttt J).tlth.-w 101 W~:Uon 'h11 hlrtlt\
on-r ~,a~. ~ ~n ll~tt "''

CC'I'II\'1 lu~~t- t'.tn bt
pbu--d on u"'''H\t'
j{f..ln lu
:1\"0id ~n~: thb ~'"" 1n WJmt "''''"''"'
""''.
Flared Skirt with Gathered Wa1st

Uw tilt Oll<'d:ut or twt..dlln b,l\\r ~lr.ln.
HgUIO
Prq ..~t(' thr ~l:lrt follt hl~ \'\,,mpl<' on IU):i." !-6\

llgmt 1, ,utd ,._,):\'14(,,11~11"' 2.
Mt\'t '>prNidln.: th(' hcnllhl\', wl,.l~,~ lttt "''"'
and ' IHt'.ltl til(' arntunt d~..,ll\d 11\ll$.: tlw ~ h.1n '''
h)' lJ)I(':Itllng h JU tltt',IIIIUU!ll vi \'a(h lt(m 'Jl.lt'l.'
1\<kl narl.' ;ttd ''''"' : lhh' hliM ''''''

trimutlll~ tht hiJ)Ihll' llknd 'II\' \'l,lh\Unl'.
~'""' p.lJ:\' liJ-4 leu hl'lll .hljlntllh"tll
Pattern ptot ond Monlputo tlon
~~
1 ;a , l'f I lUI II nf' Ofl I hi.' fl:lfM'f Jtl;tllb tk'11fo.v
-
1)r,1~~o
knl(lh ,,.u, t indk... th~:m .nul \\Jhl 'lo\'.un Jll

"-'"mt-). '''"Nplr l mlihcd 1\"ngtll 2~ ~n('t~
rfU\ 2 UKhn t 1/J. lrn;h )I ~Ji\t.tml I 1/- U1Ch<'S
.tt h ..nd: f(l4.11
zg lnctl~.-1.
'lc.l~rt" tuw out from tht" '"~' .-uul boetom OC tht

'C"IIK.il till' ;tl c.-h end rqu.1l tn ~~~o1dth olth<
IJNK ("(>llllKIIUW'11fH(lftlpktc the p.ancl.
l-UII'Untltwkf> lOt .Jb-l.nch f.abciC" ;~~kl I I(J.umn
ftlt ..SI!Kh l..bfl(' il'lOI illu\lf;Uf\11 \tid nlOfc
ruMhll~irN
f,(Wift'
cnuc-r b.Ml. 1,;atw1 lf.llnch thf(ll.ton liMJ.
GORED SKIRTS
.\ l('tltt' h ~~~kill J~UM!I th,u t.ljlt't' IOW.;trd tt~: ,..oll\1
lint. A l(}ft.'\1 \1.111 ~,_ont.lhh "')' numb~ of ,;lfn-
hom 4 to 12m mor\"-4.'11\UII) 'l.tlln 'l or In tlu\t~''

dotl)l1ntHnl( un tiM' kw~._ \k"\lll'll 11w l61't" mo~y lun~
\lfoli!(ht f11Mt1 hlp k>\d , Rl;t)' ~ IJ,UN 1M p'tJoll"d . J,fld

R\ol)
IJorl-..l.
ol\01.;!1\ OH olll)' 1101111 Akllt.l( lhC" 'oC'Jimhtw
lion rpc-1 muu bt ntlld't\-d to c-n,ucc- the- (Oftt

pr;tf..t\ OH'f JJUU.tK'd Wh<rn \UI;,ht\1 lllhi~U\
through ~<art C''-olll'IJIn of l'CJ(C' 'JoiUIIoR"-
Bk-ndtC'J~
<IGore Flored Sl<ort
'-;Otch "'"'" Ql p.lnd\ ~Kith for t''ttf front

0\nd ('('fltt"f bAl. '\.occh hrol.a.nd w-;un"S..
Oo>ign Ancl4y$l$
1lw Ntk .._.Pt ,.,_lrt 1\
\iin m.n h.l\'C'ftlhcor ;~ ~ opf'ntn~ (Of cnuy or

.a ~~~ pantl ;at ""'"'" b.k t foe )('JIM1 o~nd ZIJ'Iptl
dot\~
.\liM tl.lrt ;~~OtJ
from
'"*
t~
bl\k
tu.' o~n ;~U~htd

"'.;.mh.lnd
tlhot botlt 1\ ~'"'" .tnd ,,_.. '"'' cllf tl'k "'.;.mb;tnd 1
Ponom Plot and MonlpuiOtlon
foguo .. 1.2
lr.ttt' horu .md I~L h.nlt AUnf'
fq.t~el
of
I hot' JtOit- I hi\ fC'\Ulh I"" Wlod\ \olll.-1) tl4 'iii~>Uot\tt'\

It b hnpon;~rn 1r1 rtmtmbtr th.ll ~.li.h jnl.nma \C't
,.,_.n ''"'
1\oi.J:M- 19-2:4(1''
Adt.l \.{'iln .1110""'.rt' to <tnttr honl .1nd h.k._ of
il 4jCOft' \ ..lit,
Cut JMittm\ hom tht' I'Jfl'f .md dr.m ~lf.ltj:ht
'"
"'"'"
hi;~~.
otnd <t:llU:f jo{f.llntlnt\ (UjlHflfl\ fClC futUft'
ck'\lgn,J.
(llll1!)k'1t' IWI('fll for tr\1 fU .
r~'
L.T---
I~
Ack:llng Goro Floro

FiQUfet 3o b eoe~ Go- Pon.l
\t;~,rl., lin<ht\0\11 frt)IU tht

ft J:Uiddht('.
11K(' 0\ rulet h omo\ tu th4:' Z.\n(h

m.arl.. n ,, ;1, llrw frc,n \to .....thin
1/ lt ln< h C)f lttr> ltUil
Or;~,"
.1 <'U"('d
Unt lrom lht m.atl.,,
bk'ndlnt:: to tht htrnlir~ t~hlldl.-d
;l,l('oll
In l iXUIC' \Jil_
1'1~" h"tld.rd r,.JIC'1 bthind tht ~~

'"'" .al!lf'C'tl "'''h tl'k U'l'lll.'f lr""'
tht b.kL ~(' l"o'rttl tl('~nfl'\~ Uk
l'oliP nd \('{ N!.k
~lrr &.A., ......
I
I
I
Pcmem Plot and MonlipulahOn
'
r..ttrl
On thf>Ytnt jUun. nu1$.llnttllt'\

out from tl1< (td'" ,-.Jc 01 8 .a.nd
\ktfo wm il i,~tur... ,b,_
ron.cw. hgur~ "" lm.tru...tklfu tn
dr.n~ tl)( fl.trt' Ur~ .lnd ~m ~tul'lt'
l\h~ .1r.:.1tn fX'u~ lb).
=-- .
,, .. .oc:l'l""9) 11/.t t<OCI'I-.g)
112
Otc'~
r ;,.
tlronl \.Ltnt.
FJgutes de. CJ Front ond SlOe Front
ModltylnQ Dorll
GO<e Pone~
lACK
Orlgnc;' Ocm
R-.'IX'I t h e h"trultiom 14h ~u In l i)I.Uh''

Ja .nul .ih _. Mark th\'"
1rom the
ll gu ldNhH.
n.,__.
ki'llurrlnt;,krnllht.,.:u>l'\lld.arth) I linch
.and ~hemen lht' ...n):th to~ u\t hn
{ll(ruht' Ill\ mt.al.r rtf tht- flnt din b\
112 loch.
n...-w cb.tt .. 1t\ ""''~
\11~1111) C'tUt.,.nd ti!J!un. 11
o,,..,
~
a
[,,..,, llwh
U1m.n..atr thl' \t'teon.J cS..n '" m." HlJltM'-"'0.'~' to the: tnWL: 4 the ltnt ct..n
Or.a., ,.....,_ d.ut 1'1'1'~ t\lnrd !~.hdtlly fiUI
"""'"'*'11:1.11\ 2'1
'
~'lf0'4:
Tna tht ~k front .atW l\k., U.1rt

OrJ~
~tckluk\ hQftl t/'w: dJrt pntnh
to thf' tkml11k p.lODd rtollk- ~~t\'f IJI'k.,
l.Jbtl J::Uh.ldl.nt\ \-1~1 '~m1 ;md c-o
8r01ten OMs
Jl..l,l lllrh
..,.,. I
Ftgues 1 2
..,tt
' i:
i
'
'
'
" l
,
>
'
252
('h(JJ;'''"
13
I"''"~'-'
.......
6 Goro P1Hi"JI4 tel hkh1
_l
Oo~n Ar"W"Jiyla
I ho M 1'"'' h lllf'
"'""V;' ol \ot lot Ill '"'"'I'"" I h
" l1lt 1 lll.ou llw I ++nh K 1-tno I\ \Il l'""' 1\ lu\ 1 h
I \1t"lll lft lht \.Itt. \1. 1111\ lho o \.Jihjolo Uh1~11 ..11 \! I toO
lit \lhillly , .. rMo
fool 1Jt Htn \"olll ..t i<Of"
Pollom l>tof ond M<x'flookJI~n

~
tl'(UI
Il
Corn GC~ l
W"l
"''"lit ...
l t,..fU\... huut,uttllt.t~l l!t t
\It nUll Ill< tlhi~IIH lttoll! 1lA11 l" oil+l tu tollllt
"""'
\l.tt'-
Itt Ill llulll I IIIII huUI In I 1ullhl~ ""' ol

\111111.. 111 fl1ti 1/J h .. h . ..... \
lt .IW ~til fll"' hum f \I tu 1htl fo4111 \hill ""UIM I tl.ttl til ill It ho~.fflf \lo~ lflt,lo II lit"' h
IMIIIHIIIILIII to~~t "'""' I
14~totttl r~l!t .. ""'" lk"W ~ '""'''' ,.,

1t111. , ...... u~ totuh ''"' "'"''''., It .., ., .. ~~ ., '"
It t l,.llt
...._..
J\lhtllltthl\11\lollo t~nooftltltm
'"..J'" Ah
fq.tl!tl CO t'l b
F~/llx " Gcn
,,_,,,.I '}
I~< lr "'
11 11'1 .tt lht" Ill'"'" l tt"tl~ ' '"''~~!II
(~t ttw ,.d. p.tlith lr"m rtw Jloll

lt'fn lt<~~ thor jllllrtn,.
\l,u l t ltt K'"' wlo ltlt U IJt.tl 111 "' 'I'"' ht """'
j.IJII' wk lt h lA Ill .tttd d1llt 11.111 loll Itt lflfollll
Wd J/21Hih vo~tnl .1not llmh lut

Ill! bom
I ,_,
\1,u I. putk h ''-"' "'" I 'llrl!l h up Ito lfn
If
llu tu '"'" lllltnl 1111 ul lt!J' Ill uo.J

l1111tllm u<IIIJf \ 1111 h1111114 ttllll 1...-.. 1,_.11., 'til
IJI(UH~ lollttf I I
C tllltl\-"l 1
tho do~n 11111 t'lt rhr I k ~ p..111 m

IIIJ!IIIt" 'hJ
I'
,...
,,~~..~
M~rt
'.11)1 hAC.r
W'l
1(4
1V1hht\ lrlf tltl "'"""'~,,,JIll m
..u,,.....mu \
MJitl nuldlM "' 1111

j:l.lfld'l., '" llhJ\It<iltd
'"'' 1ft! ..
~''"'" ~''''
fI
l.lf11W )tl44nliflo"\nd "'"Ill Jllll frl 111
fi."""""'
'JI' ''" ~~ l.,.,,,.,n, lu '''"''
I h1 "-'hllutld. 1 ,.., Ito Jlolltl" Zi'
141 "M'tlnv 11!\lructlt"'' ''" ll 'f'
1'1.
ntroelrld "Ill""' If iff t ,.,. / 2 ll, :Z 11
' -If
Sl'PiS.IC~ ANO CA5CA.OES

~J4
5korl!
no~f .vl!J WJVr.ltt: ~:~ W\;ltln'

~&,'Of\_" l'l.h.im: n:nl\'f lfltnl c-r I:Vf\' t in ltlld
tf~\1
\l('ol~ft'dtwon lrorn ";IJM ._,, thl P:Mt' JNfltl' tel .t

b.lli\lfl ,.,Mfl' J"'k.m .tl\' te btJtut 1("\.lll'lfk
0 tn<-IW$1
"qlt.ltt ~~ I ~ Wkh fn>m f""'h mJrl.. l.1~l \
Wurt ,, ~IJ.It\' rulc" htld ,,, thh loc.atk-n. d r.t"'' a

luw I II~ Inth~ om from pnfnt X (01 (lie;at
dqlth \l,ul.
"-IU.IR" CIUI l I Jl tn-t.IK"\ \l,ut. .)nd blell(l h\m
lint l ~-"""' tcHompk'tt" pk.ah
llnh ;a hknd 111M.' fro m \ to tht- pe p;aMI.
\t.Jtl. ncn he.~ o1nd gr;alnhrtc-; a~ ~;amc. and 1/ 2
co
,..,.,.,
t ... lndt h~n1
..,...,
.I.'..,
r-- -..
_j
fT\
1/!
I I/~
,,.
I
I
I
',,._,
Figure 9 Floor 5o.oppo<1
lo .Jdll w.um (leu t:On'J'-IIl(h \\llh 11,,\n fr.IIK

lC.'<II)l ili/M<.,11lh' from w;ti\1 p.u .lllc.f h\ ):'lh,.lrk
CUt\ lllj: ()UI IU 111 Ol thtpk.. t, .l\ ,fH~ n
'
'
l' klct' pUnd t .11111 dAft: I ll( ll'kh Ul .. nd ur IRnl

J'VIIII \
'
'
(Ofrn..to t()l'
12-Gore Skirt
12.Gortt P(Jt'lff
foQ\" 1
Uro1 ~ ,, llllC' to Ill(' IC'II~ Ih dt\.h <'d (1\-R).
"""'"""-
Go!\') h;l\ "ln,it Jl or mort pl!U'h '""" ht ~:riC'IOIIt"d

thtOC~h IlK' draft(!(. f$1 j'UIM'I. "'flkh I\ CUI"'
m am umn a1 it r~nh fbrt" c.tn bt .ttM~ h
the' Wpr or thlf'
pand rn m.111n~ tht lrumJlitl.
fl!J' and TuJ!ft ulhoof'ltM
\ llul Ct'llll'l front h il, dl.'l'lh (CJ _

' t.-rt. cmr thltd bt'twttn .\. ,md C ci)J,
Ul\'ldt> lht ""'~' a nd hlr mr-.t\tntrn('nt b , 12. di
'tdf. I hi" nlt.1\tl fffJH.'UI in half, ""d ft"('()rd.
\ \ ..hi
I lip - - - -- -
""rt
Tht B<lf't" rand u dr;altN ~- diudns: IIW' "'"'''

and hlp rnw tM numNT ('of ~t'\ dNrN lbt t
pit~ for a 12-sotf' ioi.JR Thf' dart U"n~ (lf tht "';JJ\1
11 ~ InfO t.kh oltht C'UI plntk
''m
Fquret 2
\~UJrt' tll'lft t'Ut from both ,.ldt1 at A ct.-ai~ J .and

C l hrl u-:~ tlw r('("()fdtd ""'"~umnenu in Hg
Utt' I 11M' "'Jdomlr\llll"M.t\Uft'tYlot'fll t} 1/8 in<'h
fc-)~ ttun hiJ nWO.t\Uft'nM'rU.
"Vu' 3
phn~-tneh~
H.p
CUU front tup dc'fCb
,o-, ----~
' 9.'1:
llr~t. l!rtt'\ ('(llnn'tr~ the' o..ttliM

,.. ,._~ 'lt,thlh OUt\IOtd runt".
c..., '2
<1.nd bWnd 10
'
-'
.....
'
Col
.,~L~
...
~~
........ "'"''"
Cvl
~..ttC-t
~&("!<.~~
.: :
.....
""Q"Q
I
\.
12.Gore Graduated Flore

Design AnOtysls
""' 1l1o.hll tnl IIJ~r<' \Uri f o~n fir(' d\ ''~f"lt'\1 "' lfll 1114'
I!.Jm ~r'l\
I"!
lh<' hrmlm\" .1nd rht Lro\l}.Jll>~~ll l~r llJIC.' n ~-~It
IN
j:\lf'\'l flot.ln\I.U!llflfl.lnl'f
\.,ll)ffiJ:
t;fff fUIMf.
Pon~rn
Ptot ond Monipulollon
FIQUf I
llo~tr ~1ft" l"''lt'l lift lf"'' (..;sb(>l fflllf1 front.
'
\qWJ'C' lhM;> .K-1!1'\\ I~!K"I ;md (ptr .II hip k-\'('1
lf'tt.t('f' tl~ Jt.and fi\T tinlO morr, m.atc-hm,: hip

k\rl omd \kk \oC'~nt tnli~ 'll'""'<('111\ Otlf'oh.aU ot
th~.: \lin 1
'umb(or lltf' JYrw-1 I 1hr~h b.
\l,ut. I ..f i.t"kh dt"""' I tOm 1\.thl .u C"nUt'f Ntl. Jind
,r,;~"' "M~hiW' to thlld ~-"d IS'Ik lt'.l!nl. Tnrn.
I,,(',_,. (IM'th.'f hont
1 .and b.x'l.. tf;lnd bJ

\.1rldB.anddr.a"' lul<'(Ot
ll'.a~
f()~m.Jh:t1Jih 1~1
rtn~ htmln~
I I.Jk
,...,._,..,~trlf
--
0..9"'101 hem
\lt:.t'IUf\' up ftcm1 A '-'' c.t'ntt."r hunt 10 .. poun
Whl'f\' the llo~rt' wm l~ln rt\..llllf)~ 1l ir~~~;hn).

l.ltl'l!:l(
M.. u \--(' M.~rl. l)f;~" llrW' hom(' tOo.
J'JI4"1
'------
.-.
,'6
M\'\1\llll'uout from A t<nldth or the O;uc (txa.n.

1>1('; ulll f'qUoll A-l. ICfljo!lh. fiiCOI.I lh t' g(Ht'
f~nl'lco ""''" l..'lbl.'ll l;ut' 1.
M~'fK'.II fm ul h~r )ide.' lf lht' J>.lllt'l and (()u linuc
uMtl.lnl( n.u~.un ,..._ h 'lllt "' t'a<h f)dnl'l tqual lo
kiiJI,Ih .lnd wtdlh of I I:Jr(' I. (1\lu(' lhw lndll'.lle
ll .. r(' f..alll'h fur ROtC\ I, ,,, ollld 5 . llre>l.:l' ll lin t'~
lnc!l(;lt \' ntlll' fMU'I\ for ~VIl'~ 2, .J, IUhl 6,)
Flgvro 2
l llh h Jll l'\:lmph ~I IIW ll.lllt'l \ h.lflt IPI ll.llt" I.
Flgv<o 3 Zlppo< seam

\\11\('uwr ,, tlJtptr h fl llnt'<l, ,tdll .J/.J h\l h \('.1111 .II
f()wJnu It) tlh' lcn.:lh tit lh t llpflt'L then thr ,,,un
1o~~ l ~..td.. to 1/2 lnd 1 l'l'lltll\' tlfll"-'' ltt'lli .llll'''.lnn
h al'lO''' l/2 lm~h.
\4-fi<JI< IIf' l',mrl\
l1olt\ J>.Ij)\ I lllldl'fnl'lll h thl' J),.l\tl'rtl ;tlld lr:lll)f i:J
It'"'" ,1\ l ullu~~. I 01 J:Oil' I, ''".' bo ld
lhw, (,
KHn' 2 , troJott fl,ut lndlta.h '_\1 b)' bmLcn line-,. ('on .
llnut th1. I.UIH'\\ unlll :tll li:('fl'\ au: u;~~n,flr u.'CI.
260
C""'P'et 13
flgv< .. 2o b
Iran: '"' ' ulloit' t'lt tht' l~llllttn tm th" umu
front p.1rWh .
l..ltllf'I I"YII t'HI~ : Cttl I U(hi\J,,, lift
\lo dlf) lh(' h u nt ,.,.,~, h~ u tm m ln,; 1 ln<h
tro rn tiK' hlRh \\,lh t n t , .,_ht tor .l \ m_....,lll;n
Foq"'e 3
c "~ W 1~n.h l..tbd 1'-~U <'m
'O>Oh
'"
I '
-cort--
.......
'
3
.-----.
'
Pottern Plot and Monlputolion

FIQur I
I" ' liner cop!<'' tf th"" gore t"md )Ide by side.
I " end to dC\ hCd l('ng lh .
~fU.IIt' ) hOlt lhlC'\ UJ frOm tht: CCII IN'\ tlf C:tCh
p.tntl. l llhtl X J l th( ttntct of panel 2 :u hem.

.,uti Z 1... 11Im ted fnr tht:d~ug llii11C'I tl~lsn .
A U llndw~ floht d.ut polru flhw cntcrt; I'Jn('l
I,, l.lne fo llo w) ~111~1t of d:ut leg.
A(
Z lntht>t tfm hl~h w,ll~t ), ;t\ ~h()W1l .
( IJ A- 1., ~ull rCtl from C. l)ra\\' lint 10 1~
RI
,\ It, wrutl"< tOO to c:<'niC'r ;tu1dl' ol l'~n('l 2
IX xuklt'llntJ,
I -(,
f X ffm Hrt'J tmtlng o~t "llh' l f::uldetlu t

t,f fWntl I l:haM a runt-d lwmlhw to X.
I'Mwl Z ('\lillhthhc~ t'J tl('l wklth.

r., tumt~tr lht' $:"It' ll,lU(I, c,haw a>;ulkl lh~
1ftttll K .;nd ( nm1nuco lint' h1~m II
It I
r.guro o1 FQCtnO
lrau til\' IllS" Cll C l'>llh h \k), l'\ '-l"l' ,rul ll\.':
1/! lth h t~.'lm\ \\,1\\l ' '"'' \\lth l hl' l'-'lh I 'hl<o ~
In ll~uw !.J 1111;1 ,ml \\lth aund f\ Ill I >.:~11\
\,k t , , .. hh h 1111 \' \11'11\ l(>l\
f C, Clt>t fl~lfl Ulo!W t \lt'\'f"'l hun line.

~<
...
DRAPED WRAP SKIRT

WITH A CASCADE
PEGGED SKIRT WITH Pl EATS
Doslgn Molyolo
lih' dhiJ~'I)' ji4\.11\ \111,-1\llh fltKII IIlii' lfllhlll,llid
rt
lht' olo\4 .kk h ,.,.,, ,,. Uw J,ht '"'''"'''

d1oc ''
tlt,rhtnd ~ H~ prh\4 '"'' lhlt' un lht'1'1"~'" '"k
uf tlw \l.ht, oi\ ' ' "''""" ur (.lilt rid,., tltot \I! lor 1o1. m d
~~n~ondMoN~
..., "'"''
ro .
!Ht:h ntd I ~;nKIIr (oil I IM 4\hh<tllo ~ \ "''"' .."'

I ht th oilllf'' lh.al\ ollltllh('lr JoiMC'IIH111 fnllf
\ill~ lr, f;oUtMIIIII: II~ ._.riM: IU\tltKIIIIJI'I\ 11to lukl
..._,,,
JJr"' .t IU10 II! off! I lrMh llol.. ~ H llltf
"" ilK roMJI..tllna ,.,., un '"' '"... "" w hold "l' "'
, ..... '" '"" h'( ~--~
\br'l 1 ,,.,, in
~At
\t!Mn I~ t,h.an~~:tnl{ tht "'-'1"' nl
II~ 11 ut..J.;rL&\
lu f.l..,llj!lt1t tho ..,.,.,, t"l111'iU\. lull holl1 1t1.t
N<l,l~,&"" Jt...iHUI1ollt. '"''k\.1 loltlt:t lu~2J :'trJt
hun ,md d'""'
lnw to tur ,,,. J"lU\d Ih., I

l)f'"" \l.lo~h llllr\ I tok,H\ .t' \l'wn.-n
"""1\tllttot lmltlk Uon\
cut p.lil~rn luom f"'l~' 1run IM"i&.t:n

1,, m.u "''" W\"'..t;o. tot ,.,,.hth.utd
f9J97
ln'IC'\ htotn ",.,,, In, IIUI
throuch iok'"'Am.IJldhtm
t u1 \J.1\h
\. \
'
1 t..'ol ""''''"'" thrul.tnlltt,l

\tlfr.W r.~.h Vlllol" ll!l\ tW\ IM' ' "11-H'
'-'lilt'
lr.k~:
.,,,_llld tMUrrn
nt.H._In,K Jlk.tl
f'l" nn...:
1~~;,-
u.,, I'J.....
foil!
1t1o ,,.,_., ht '""''II
Pottom Plo t and Monlputotlon
2
nt ll'llhl~\
~.thl
\\Uh ll.t\IMIC " l w~l, Hn\ ~tr tu ldtd

tllt.oH ilt "-'oU\Ihll 01'11t'll IM II I'fll .md
Ill !It II U1 J flhf,th tl m.uh oil \\,lh l
ho~u :
fi(J\O 1
;\ II
'''''h r,,, pk.th

lr.-r ll..ac l , t.tllll '''"'' \hHII, lint I un h I!
1~1 ~~~~ II \.efliJih
1 hi ~~~\ " I' h11111

lwm "'"' llhulr.tll II.
l'l~r ,.,t'd~ \11 11<1.,11' lo11tl<lfl! "' hrlt flrlllf r ltuu t llf~>~llf ,.
.......
'''""'lltatulin ;md 1''"ll"''" 1111 rn '''' t"\t frt
['-c----'~
M.11t. '" " ' '''1'"11)'
rll/U l.\,
V;ny
hl\ oi i iHil \, II
'1'"-''l' \'""
,ll'\lrnl
'
0
lwm"' d.ut wll' 11 m.ut.hl~ ' '""
u1
I>
I lll lrr(hr' M111l.

11 c
l lr.rW.I IItll'frltlnll tcm hlnf! tht
fh \1 d.ul 1)1)\!11 ....11 trlilfnJt oil uw \ld~
w.un l h ~w .l lhw fru111 wtIIUI dllll
,,.,lnt M till' \lll\11 lltw.
cn
f 9"'~' lSI d CQI'l:5.11 y 1.00

lr.c t h.l\.jt hdt 4 II lulcS of fJ r ! 'ItT I~It'' 2 I 7 lc ,, 111 II 4""', ln1'"'' rll.
U nttdt'll l
tull fmut h"' ' \ kin IMitl'lll
,'tjllllll)' \ )loKI">I 'l!l\h llllltl.\

I I ' ( cm hllh\ 1llll lllllol~l'
f hi ,,,,,
1 \h rrtl
.1
\l t o~t ~o:ht IHh ln'fn I 1"'''"',:
1111 \li lt ",1111 '""''' \ "'' ht \ ' " ""'""
'"' J.loll h t'l\

1)1,.,, ,m h ~t h rtllhm
~ 111 lttn th, 1'-'1'-' 'll"',."lmlt ~"

lim
.111 "
AsymmetriC Radiating Gathers
I .g...or 1
.r9-""'
''"'J' frm ft tol f'l' ,.1.)1 plrll oof tin ...:-c-nml
diU I
( JoN' lklllh ~th ~noJ fJJ"'
Oolign Motyall
(,.ot ht'l\ J.ttl!ilttt frhn'l
'"''nl
o11
\ltlllu I hut 1 nrh ,.1
IIW lo ~l ooftlw ~ ..1\th.lnd II 1\ t.tllld 11 tUIIII<II kll
l ht ~hi tl.lft\ .tit' ol l l.lll~tl IIJ Mt,II!W~tllll tJJ!
'')kllw lll;~tltllncl\ ll /1hMht\~lr~ r..tlt..\U
I of lh l'lidlh I tH\\4'\ fntf It III l i b)' 7 1 ~ lnr It
\\~htllnto hl~tnM tkm I\ 1ft ,.,.,.. l: H /IPI"' 1 111
l)r,a." 1 ltn lhttoUdl thl t\.loe I HIIIH Hf liM' ft I
'f'M'I ~t
\tu,;cUIItU h OOilJ)I~ 2 V.
t"
A t~'"J: "UJJiltMh tlw \t) ~ '""'

fht tlo!'\olatn
\hCillll ht Hit II\~ 'oHII l.thtK I ho~ '" ..:lfJ tlr'\.i,;n tt 4
c
fq.... )
tt.knd ,_. trom ~ '" dwowfiW' .tntif .ttht
~l'idiiiWI Ulll. lltllcOoe":l-. II lho t'('flh tnJ luw
'"""'u" pwhk"'
rq n )
....,..,,
t of'UW(1
~ luw u..- C t~ ll lo t1h I ,,., ,fMJUJd l"t'
Clf~~h
>;
fq.,t 4
t ut II ''-''h linn .wd 'lt>ft.Jd t'CIIUI tf) llloC' S..t
fftt.I\Uil n~lll
ltoll~tW Ji,(Uft' l ln~lnkliUfl\ 10 COnlplll:'t~ f'.Kh

tlfOlJIII'I\ llto~l
,lqU't:
nr~ -
f9-1e I
. . . ._
k~
Portem Plol ond """""""'

fo,tA l
.. 1n
,,. "'
'"u '' Of't' rwr:
htt'ml 4ar1 f"trhl"'
1 ~ ~ Jo.*n
t r,lfll ''"' ,"

l~"' tht ''""""' ," kli:.nr t:\llb lht r1lrt
tl'l\'\lflL 1\ 1Udl I Jttk othlfu.JrUII tlioo
U"tlh I h'-' .-nd('i ...t"lpulnJ'fW'l Ol'lt ~
ltll l l ~tn<ho. lhr~!1Nthc'tu u'tltt
.... 'fl\ 11 ~."'t..r-.
'"""'" " 111M' f\l!Ai """ ltw' hmtw'l
,,.,.,,and rttJ' .11 thf .lin p>~nt

Jlr.1,., lht ~31M dnh bJ'tc'l.
f:1Qut9 :-..
cmcooo
\111\h llut hum ht>tn UJ
ciMIJtltlfU ( 1)\( the d:ul

nd lt.tU: ISknd ;t tUIH'<I
ht rrllhw
'"'UIIfo )I IIY.IIi r,l tht U\l.tJ.I mt "''" h flw tU\t.tHt l.or1~hf11hl rtHifh
atllll hftofV-tlfH I'
raP O:J' lb.: " ' 11\an<l

~" ti.:!P" ""' tNt lht t\afttwl
h.r ,,.,.,.,_ 'I<C'
, tu1 m twn'o
b,'fl 1 ;tn ,._
"'""
\.l
h,...., kUO IIW hlJ' C'l tfl'f
~:,
SKIRTS WITH YO KES

Yo~e
WJih GothOifJ<l Skirt
) I
Oo$1gn Anotyt.!a
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.
..
JI .
J
.
'
'
"
'
'
'
'
I
MOl hOds IOf SUtch1ng Darts
\lrllklol I
l)tawdartl~~' ..u~lnh .. un't'\t
NNth th~ dl'ltl k"t:-' olltd not{ h ;U tl'llll't
l'ln<'t' Jllutdt.md t h, I\:' 11.,. imh In and up fn1rn

''"' .11111.!1 .mi.l u11 1/S ln.. h ;ll th"' H'nkr Cll thr
,.k.ll
'
'
"'
\frfho:V!
Tnm c'-rt'\-" ~.. "''t.bln I": tnl:.h '-"'the dart lk'f;'

'"';am .lillot-~nJ Yd \ .; lnd\ fOll'I('CL
" N<h thr o.lfrn"f' and 1l(l(d'\ ~ tht
h-.t
l\h~'\1 ""'.) ln.il\,\t('\ tlw- j"k&l
Cut 11.-wm tht ~ret .tnd mr .an- ,, I, ,"'('tltt< tn'lnt
~n t(lo1J \.:IJ ~l.liiRhnt-.. (._('n'lpktt I'nt
\\f'\11;1'\ c\ll.llrk pl.tt't'i.l llrt"l"''t""n \\',1111\ " ' lnW

01 u)4.:d
rnrnt tOf NTOUI '('(1t(l(l\ Ulll unin.;
(otli.IC'h Jlrfl\ itk'
\Uklc.- room (11 n1<1\ I.IC" .lCkk'd
11 \k-
ft'.ltun 11M'\ Jt('ctNt td li11J."\ll.1th tlf In .1 '<fit"' '''iUtll.l tht' \l.llt fh('\' m.n t'"t'l ld t"' e-n I\ to tht he-mli nt'
ur two ~;Qdu.UN '" .,lJICh (,(llk-t\ ml\ IW' piau-d {1111 t'lii.UU pc l \1. ltkM.I\C', 'kt'\'t', o~nd d l t'1\,
lh.llt'"~
"'~n
BosiCGodel
Oo>lgn _,.l)esigru 1 ond 2
Jltstpll "~ ~umrk ol \~ ~trh tn1C"t1nlln

flO~ Tht ~".an tot trM)Ik ... th tht \l.itt
34~Utlon.1l
~)
Pontwn Plot ond MonlputoiiOn

kgl.n tln.Qne w.lh 9Jrt
\to~rl. g~~.'l.k1 .a dnh< pi.KTnw-nt ff'Umplro:
tJ~U ~1
.,_,,
Ul trKht.,l .lind l.aolx-t .\- 8.

l \lt'Od ttw hrm llnt 101 dt1.irt'd "'Khh tt'UJnpk:
.. lt'kh1.l l ..lld C C""OOIK"t1 \ 10 C. nudJ~ 1
I~'" mttK' ltM f\tUoalto tM ,\-" kfl~ttt.
~ J 1.. Lnd't l()( tlw liJl'l'lt'f- ll'w.'f'l ~ batt 10 I
~'lot p.ln..r11 """ <ut-f.IU\ d.ovv

( OJI hUfl) l).tpt't
I)" "' ~h hnK.

~ :'*'I
nt'\
to. noc tht..M4;h. w top of \tw
Deogn I
~ llJ:utf'\ I, 2, .ark.i '
'91 I
I !NI'Kh ~.atl'l . .n )IMJWH.
lknd "'''h h(mUI'M'.

f9JI I
flf
n
l
Joo'
.......
I
10
~
lACK
.
:I
,.,.
OOIIQn 2
: 10
"-'.: HKUI\\ I , 2 m i l t
/;
c4._ .
l AC
f !Q'-'1'? AUOC:hACI Gooot
A b udtl lln " HI " ''"' m ;a ri..~ jitl ;ainli u ~).
k ~
rt.Jd4 t Yold t h rcxamplc.: -4 lndt('\ ) <.<Ju~ rcd
f Noftt ll.
P r.t w
'
lll~o~
,. U
IU ud
hiJftl C
u. A
\ 8 ..11V.th \i rL
l~o~mltn"
l't J" t ' ' "' Ml" 1 \io.lt
c 0":-:....:J
' _ _,
A 1-on.One Wrap Sk,n
WRAP SKIRT
o-n
Wd dirl!.l'fd t'\.tn'l~ t '! l.bt -"T~ (~

('CIWII ttl~ tt<::~~a ('H'Itft ~ ~ > 4Mt l t--~
r-r,..a~ht:at~ al~
fu Uftkt NLo.. add 1 .::. ftb <,co~
\1 -cn t ho~:~ "C'Im, 04 tht-trorH AtW hot.\ "-in

'\U.Iu~ht l"f \-lt~~ \\~.a" "ll'fm.-4 t thr
"*'
\\ ~1\1
._\ -o::- $...,. lA

~
~ $(je
Seam
=totona Ma.,~
'"-" .
-....... -
~ h trDt.i I ....-.::h lnt 011~

. . tbr
.m.l brm k \ """"
...,"
"'*
C'OI:
. . . ..., ~ .. . . lldn;t
'-
11~11: (ftk'l' lftii'.IJ:
a3t M1d J
In( . . .
tlllt from
:w- ~ o-" .,.. . . illr.1ilw ... brt.1zu;
---.,.:=-:--;'-"'i
.- J -
""'
~
~
FQJ 2 ro::.-g
TrJ~'\' '~In lnMn 1\.11\t ' ' ' lh\' ('Uf\(' ('I the' ltctn!Jlw
\\1d1h
:"9..11 J '~":'t3"10~
llo r\! m.h lo t~tr fun knr. of tM .a 1 lrn

t : "a~;h. \!aL button .and Mlt!nh.-. l ndrr
-;z;;
.--f- :::-z,
!"o,,J'" tim b ~t:Qod '""DOt 'ft'n.
1 1 ~ tn,.h,, h\ lu\<h ""'
'
-::9--""ft ~ _;a .. ::.:rs-.s: a
..,,
i
S'
(\~ ~5 b.~ ~
I'd!
".I -..~
...
ltr:-
.at no.~ ft'IJ .x IX
&."1' l:w.t'CGhok lh .....::~.I:

tht ''-'lt "->t ~ .._, ral ~
2U
Cnc>'9' 13
CIRCLES. PEPlUMS. AND CASCADES

\\ O't'~li'T rltmf'tll' <1ttlt1 h""t .tJ"'"'' mtru:Uol'lf .~-,.llrl ' ' ( fn In un bt l.h:-.t-.:nt.~ "' (tt<1JI,u \lift\, droSt'1..
\lft'\'t"'... o"l.llf\ prpl\lm\ Of Ul'f"' net "' c.tw "'"" flllr~ "'"'" (Uit-"11 ncoti..Urk' or ln\tfltd Into''""'~ ..nc~
ocit tlpn (>{ t.-.r~h I~J:tH
b\of'd 1ctt' full ~;Jr,k cr jWrt rtl <1rdc. h"' n.~: .1 ruundtd.." pc;Nmcd. or
.,,. Uflif'\'M hrmlf'lt' ( udtt '-'\otd tn clt'UICI1 "'"'~" .tn tnnor ur,tt ~~~I"''' lh.lll '' \ lltdM."d ro a IOimng 1ot'.tmt
an6 '" nultf or~ t.r !lhr ttrmlttM'f fh' ra<hl.l\ n t\lwd on lhc- ftor~.(l.h (If ttt<~ ~m rn "hl<h 11 i) \lilthed. S1Jru
pO'"''CktkM' ~pit- of tloM'I rtk' ~~~.., C.Jtdr c ~~n t' w ht u"<d \ th>.l fOI' drtt<>inc rttt- tir<:ln h incluckod.
tht flf tl4 lht nan h .lf'oi:'J inc.luikd
4 dtfcul\ti'WI.It"lr..,r ~nhrw """"''"'"""' nd tu C"lftc.t
"'t
'"*
r
J
I .,
~
..)'
tJ,~.;i(....
tif
.,
I
!J/JIJ-r'f
\ ..
"\
l.
)
rl
'
J'
.......
c.....
I \
.a
) ~
,,
Circle W1th1n o
C~rcle
.\ ~;tu.l~ "'1111"'''" .a Clr\.lt Within cm:lr fnf t~ put

po'ot" of 1.1\"\Jgnlnx. lht lnnc.r clrdr h \Utthcd to\ tht
Jntnlnx 'lot.un of tht x,.lntKtu . .1nd the. tJUh:r ''""-' n
thc_o hcrnllnt I ht r.whu~ tT'IN\I,IICint:nt ("'t.Ubtl.1ht~ thot
dtulnlfcrcmt' id~u~nctJ OIIWIId rf'Ko lnmr f'tl outc:-r

tlft.k"\ I he knJtUl C)lthc 'A.'.lnl 10 "'hi( h the lnntr Cil
tk: h """ht'd dctcm\111('\ tht r.M.IIu\ mt-\urc:IJK1\I
Ow R.ldiU\ (. iKIC ( hJII l)fO\'IdM lht mt.\Uitl11t"111'.
~ pJg< 247 Othll nclfnl(h df{ lndudl.....t
Ports of o Circle
of tilt ~ lr<ll ,J\ h..,ln,r.: IH"' "u.-rtt"l'4."1..110n'
\tlom of Ul\' ~;udt ,lh untl\"' hcllllh(' hdl ur
cl..-w d~tttJ\4' hc_ornUm ~"~'p
\ uah \._lrt h lllk'l.l tn lht nunl1101:r (l<!thqu.lttn
'A.<tHIIIl\o--' lull dtth thrn"'IUMH't ~Ud<" hi I
~ ifdl' , Ul \IU.Uttf (It\ I( t .1~ h t II\ lc- '\.ul f\ IIIU~!t.ih"-
'rhln~
290
~etl3
( ,_,..,, ., I
l ffllllh
RodtUS Chort tcx cucle Sk,ls

ond Coscodes
Purpose 01 , . rrodll.ls Moorurornoof
l'hl' cNr1 f"'~ldn J quiL mrthctd lttf li~illlo: lhf

~IUS (lithe tnn<'f cntk tflf IlK ,l,.ut 1101 U1ot.-Jt
lht t~.ll tJtNIWh'l'lttlll lh~!r4 It\ Ihe' 'lo\ih"
ra..bu' ".111 fq~l lhc Jnor.>th cllht "'"""' h "ltt<h II h
........
'
.
<
How 10 11M lllG Ciode/C- Cha"

~ ~..,...,.----s
\.k~rt" lhC' kfu;th ,., ctN' w.ant to .._ttkh ltw tl'l.n<'f
nrdt 1\ lotl1<hni , . . . . .~h 11'1 N-cn. ""'
.,.., lhC'doowU
~
"'*
Cc:JV!'t'IS 2 3, ~~ Doo:!IA -.~!1

Ia" ~Ode Slo.,. 0: Cnol:
l ""~ l.ht kntth --~~ Jrt'CII nmn I l'C
.kft"' thr<Nn ttbr cdlan of lbt ,"b!Motn 'llrt ,..,
Ilk QrJnn IIW'MUI't'CDml \ullcQI.1 I ~ Ctf I "lf'l(h ltJf
\C"~tD
''
,..;ann
ftw lblftln f I o~ni! J*n. f \\ftlboh ~1

I ill> ltk"h .lddrd h.l Of ~txfcod froM ti'W llk"'-"'f--
"""'
Ill
II
..
I!
II
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"
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u
lo
19
!I
''
21
l
To ju)IJ the UoJnr..._ \II' lC.k tl'w' IDC'~'"'""'d'l lr m

( c"umn I tl\ the lr.k110m J*'rft..
I '-full>(tn."" \$,.rn
ll~lhrn.qtUrtrt ,mit'~'"
114-h.III-<Jtk <ol.n
21 J-c.Juilntt-<ud... \\tr1
\tuh and
'I''''"" th
"'-'
1$,.111 ...., p.t'r'l
It
'J"
l -'\
"'"" 2-J()
O.t: U\1' qf lht' kadlu, ( h11r1 a.nd I he c.lr t lt'
1(1(11 b llhi\IUI~ In lht' dnrlnr,ntn1 O( I he
roun"lng drck \lilrh..
C <ltilltll I
I J..( ..~ ...
rt 1/4
U\/11
~~ --.,..
()"Rt
! l fZ
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0 718
0118
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OS/8
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1 1/8
I 1/ -4
0 l/.f
0 'i/8'
.. 1/2
2 1/4
I liZ
I 1/8
.\
21/2
2718
15-/8
I 7/ll
1 1/4
ll!R
td.Jl
1 1/8
2 1,s
I S/8
10/2
I li"
.J .l/.f
21/8
2 I t!
"18
,...
""
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.,,
;."ql
8 :''It'
" Ill
..
j(.f
.-
q Hl
.. jl.f
ll/8
10 I Ill"
10 Jl.f
s ,,,.
s J/4
\ tm
Jl/8
II 1/2
lll,tt
b 118
I) J/8
td/8
6 518
"
7
7 IH
12
Jl.f
l.f SflJ
I.SII.f
7S/ll
~ i/8
1 718.
1'1 .,..
j .. ,,
.. 118
...,..
.. 1122
.. .S/8
.. 718
5 118
.s .,...
s 1/2
5 .J/.f
5118
I 'I 118
lY J/4
9 112
flj/M
II
9 7/8
b 5182
6o l/ol
,ll
zr .l iS
II
21
2 1 ~/K
I 0 7/tl
10 1/2
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II
22 , , ..
10 t/4"
II 1/8
.,,,
227/'ft
II 1/2
17
2' 1/2
II J/4
..
Ill
21 1/K
12 1/ij
2.. ilK
12 ,t /~
12 ,,..
l l 1/K
I I i/H
I I ,./H
2\ liZ
21, 1/K
z,, J/4
l1 Jffl
2
2~
\IH
2"'11 1
"
... 1/4
7 IJ.4
7 l /2
7S/8
7 7/k
ft 1/8
K lfol '
K 1/2
HM8
,.,
t-1 1/4
'"'
u ''"
' .. \lit
1\ 11"
1/8
Hill
J 1/l
JS/b
j
JJt-1
17/8'
41/11
Hill
.a 1/2
45/11
"J.H
"' 718
s 1/8
s 1/ol
s l/8'
s 112
s .i / ol
s 7/F.
6 lit<
6 IN
6.i~
41 1/H
6 1/2
6 Sill'
6 1/11
7
11 1/2
71/K
(j ' ' "
'J/8
7 1/2
H 1/t'
118
ti7/K
I .'2
u ''"
1 .. C,fH
l', iJH
~~
6 1/8
lfl 1/ H
IU HR
Ill \/ft
FuiiCI!Cie Skill
1lte fOIJlmla l'i'"l"" lh 111 I)'IK"\ ul 'lltk~ omd In
chtd'"' wam ll'"'"'k~ A tuU~ho.k ,.._," h lh<r rh~t
(',,.ml'lk'. (,c.-lnllnt rl,lo(;~mtnl lm ((lol\l"tllna liM:

16(;\lk.m 01 na"" I' ~~','" nn l~ftt' 2 1H A lllol ''"
\11-;l\~ ing cltd('\ h lllmlr.-ltd
Formula
I. \\'a\t mewrt-m"" 2t.lntht'
,umt.-. ~ \(;um 2 \tlll"'\\ t.td llr~JI('\,'"
Uhmr,Ut"dl Clof" w.tnt\ lldd 4 inc:hnl

1ourl VI. h'Kht\
'ubtr.KI I II'Kh tc..- \llfl<h 27 Inc:~ '
l(lcdf( ''"'" , .......WII'~If (}11, , ...,.,_,'
s. "'".."""
\IH
7 JN
7 7/H
f/lfltJ,.
1111V'\~ , . ,.,.,,,,.,
11lr ,...,,.,
,,....,Wnllfrtl h 4 J :of'"''*"~' liZ ltflflt,.,
z 112
lJ/'
Ul1/Z
17 ,,..
1 718
.11 8
2 1/4
l 318
ll/ol
z. 718
l9
"'
..
~~~~l<'r
0 1/Z
0 .Stll
K S/8
g i/tJ'
9 1/4
'"
"12
"
""
"
( Cltllll"l (
I "k" ll 4
Iff C ;,. ...
II("
l i'il'l
16 1/2
17 l /1'1
orhrf \tttlul r "',.,...~( .,,llivlrr
; " '" " ' " l

1 4 tu,l.-
\tolm ''""" <JUU
..
b.l1m ftnl"~ mU'IoUtcnw:nt h I 1/MhK..hn.
\.
I tft1h
H lnd.n pfu' l \nth (Qr hc:m
U~o~, \olret~h ot thHfoo.a"'-' flt'Pt" t, wU.n)C 1M

ro~ellu\ hum .a lJU.trl'"tW..IIfl'ltl PI lhr ~n ~rlh .a
l'rtl~lh of~ lnchn '>lrt>t<h ~ftl'\\ llw ruk1 Wblrl
lht .lltKMinl (II Ut~l'h fte~m the llll:.a\U~me"nl
ff1.t
-I
Cucfe loci
fiQU' I
\"<,t ,m ~'kJ t.IJ'C fTK",)i\IW .lnJ ('Uho. b h..*< thro-.1<{1\ II

I\\ llh ,)ll .t\\11 ,)llhf )c"""' ;m\ll'l' (.\1 lh<' r..JIU) m<.l.\Uf"C
nwfH .tm1 hrmlmc "l.llnttl.!' the ~-.ittn'h.m ILI'Id\
11,Y~n th'l1t th{ I;'IJI' h.,.._
,u,tn~:.
\ tc''
\ h' 1
t'"'u
rln"
,\.:rt knt:th ph hct'll
~~~
Poltern Aol o nd OeveiOQomc)(ll

H.all .a nrdr V.trl 1~ d11111"\1 uYIIJ: liM 101dhu fill'.I
J.Uflt'mt111 Thi,
~lttfll I\ c_VI l ~iu IO llltn("'lff' thf'
~ooHHded
"'"'".and dJtC ~h I \C'I""NifiJ mt".111Utt"rnt.'f'll\

fol""* !I'M' f'UmJ* (!I'd! In IIW tfttniUU
-(If
CCII P'r"" til indM'\

.,.,. I
~ ICI \ '
\ ll /
onl< ~l..1n
FI{J..,.o'
( f)nlt'l hokl ut jl,l jH;t I\ )1:,

ftlllill\ tll('I\IJU'IIIt'rll
u,,,,,u,.,l
h '''"'n tlw ll.m .u ''"''' """' 1411 ..,.
l/41uth fht l)olt~ UoU lit kMthd 1/4 h1Ch
\ 1 ~1~
\1.1111( n,;Ut tlnc_luJt lht hC'm
anmunc.'<'
111k rc~ol/-"'''' pu\h (lin, w-nut" ~~ l'lf~r<

l.lfiC' mt.a\l.llt" r~J ,.,... l-Inda m.uL All~n lht' 1-'JJt'
nH.I\lHt' .at tht Intel :tnd J-'.atc- .a Jlitndlthroogh Hochc>k-1\'1 llf.a--. IIMI' tiiiiUU\
r/t th .. w ll)t' hcomfifloc_
f
ttl
( Ull l1c' \~Ill hrom lh(' 1'"1"'1 l'ld m.o\

cu lUll')' tu (olfrtpk-lt Ihi' 011 ~-
oj 11 pli-
.,
eo lt'l<hn .u'ld hold tn ho~lt
'-
)'
lor.... ll.a '
ftguco 3 Example Skt """"' fOUl ~

lh(' ltl(,u lun ut thl' \H41Rhl .alnltnc. ~._,m ~
-.h ~llj{t"tt l n f t)lllfnl tlw f;,~ll ''' tl.au' tit
haltf\Jt
,.,u,
dtUIIIllh)' \("-' IM)lf l H
t~m
.....
----==~
,l
..
~II!CU,S Al'Cl CASCAOU
cnaprer 13
294
Three-Quorler Clrc iG Sklrl
GroJOhne Ptoeemenl ReiOirve
A au.anttW'ltlun of lht' full thc1t- '' 1\lnn\~'\1 111h

lt'\ulh In I('\.\ h~mlint' Wlt't'll but ;,n lntl~.tw In tht
likUU~ lllt"ll\UI\Il\~lll 10 UWtiJI\II)IIIt ltlf It\\ I'M\ nl
llw ~"\tlun lllt- \l.ln t.u\ h~t\t' ont" ~um In b~t), en
t.\n llt'cut In two or mo1~~rtrb St'ttht ~holt(" of
Jtr.linlhw pi;KU1Wilh 011 I"'~ 2Y4
1o lhe Fo I of lhe Flore

tt-nd w 1.111 ,.,,}(\ tulh "'hrU"\''' 1114' )train h ,~n
the I:>~.J ( h.111J:tllil: tht" Jo;r.uniii1C' ,~n ronuol "tkn
ttM' 1:111) Arid fbh "dltJIJ
fl.l">
(,filnJ1nr 1--tbft"'o l.lll wv..atd the' \tdt .llld 'JI.It'
29S
Poper NMded
( ut" MlllOI <aq~rt ~I fiJPtt l;;.pr ~prr to t-xtlfnd
kn~tth
....
'
lrotll-'lliiiJ:hl J'l.lllliUlC'
~r-.lulllk 1-ll.al'\"\ ull hl '"ntn lnwu .tJl..l f\M.&t\1

'(..;~(' """m-f!Ud
trnnl .1nd , . ~m'
bee"'"""'
t..r&mhnr _J-Ibm t.11t "' tTf'lt('l "-.sr w~.

btl-.:1\ pUnd _J .f Ukh tnw ct"nt
Ponern 1'101 ond Mon<pu!Otlon

l urnluha
ld 1n
W~hl n\NWit'fll>l:nt
-..
Add \ot.lll1 ~ollcMrl(n

~ubll.lt\
I hKh foe \Ut1Ch
lutal
lOUit' thi\ fi"M".\\Uitnk"I'U In Colunm I Cit thr b
diu\(. han ;ark.lcu .KtO\\ to rolumn " ' 1"-<hck-.
Hem11ne AdJUSiments
II u\ina 1~ wm~lk mt.munntnl uf l7 lrKho.

eht r.ldlu\ h ~ Jfot \odln. '"'' 1/.lii"Kk the r.td1ul
m~;a,utt'HWnl \\ill~\ 114 hKhn ltr!Jtth pl\n
htm. on ck"\llnl _ _ __ _ _.
\l.Uh Y<tlh ("h\.'VI.11'h )houkl tit' hun~ tnTrthr

Of h.an~'t"f to lkM th~ bt.a~ 10 (.all
\t.ltl.lfk tt<mlut<' l'lhilor the slirl h on <t ftxm
tlf ml'lkl \lr.a,.uror up from th<- floor to nurl.
ft1lfll .. f~lfl11
th~ ~~tdcn(<tJ
knjtlh 8.kod the m;atl.\"d
h~m
llnt .arkl uint tilt t)\tfh;artlf! 11..ct' ttw.> owrh.;~n~

lln I he< \l.IU p.llltHl, t r.~t ~r'd hk"llc.1. A;.ld h\'nl
fiQUI'e 1
fold OIJ)..lf"-:1 h X M;uk th~ followmg
Jrim \'\(C)~
l 1 h4:1p pull the bl~' pin dra t~') o r lishing
v.\'t,~tllh 10 IItt ht"mUnt. Weights can be made-
(hiott
h) \lltthlnJ( f.lht!t pnu(h~"S flllt-d " ith m oubi(>S,
X toY
t.ldlu\ lllt'oa>uttmtu t
f't.'bhh_"\, I1J tllll\'1 l'lf.'ll(hh. I..J\.h I:JOU(h b \'qU:ll

m "ci)Cht .u1d \ llt~ h t'd -1 lnc. h~') JJXUI o n
2 );trth Of tnOIC tlf tWIII Ia.pt".
\' eo l
11tht kn.!'th UmlmltthC' htnH.
.111CM.II1C\"
Clldt' l t..-...-WIIh oil JUI~ h
flln, '4.'\.'\llt' t he t.IJlt'
Jl tlw (X) l im:ll n;ul.. ,\ll~n 'IX' 1'11\'.IJUit' ~~

t h~ fold antt pumh hOI\') tluough .at lt\d
wllh (Y) ~nd (7) m1ul.' 1'1,.~ot ' 1~1KII

thr<lough the lnl() ,llld th,&w th" fit d~u ~ ;Hld
h l'llllhlC. Sl"t'l)/18<' 2Y2 fOf ftUi tk.
Figure 2o. I)
. ..
P'l"''
Cult h..- tl:ht trum

Cui ,m11)' Hill' lllllltl~'l~'\ lltlll frQIII Ilk' ~ II
' I~ ll:hl
If tWO )~',111\ \ \\'t'h' t"JIW I.ll \'d, UJI ln ll.-11

If tuut )('JIIh 1\'\"t~ i, ,di,11111h ' l t UIIIW '~Itt
hllu fOllf ' '"luoal Jl>llh l\,hh ltl hkrlllh
nmh hln~ w.trn\ \C\' '''"'',n" ,... 1'-'~' :"4
ftu l h ~o tl.a\\"111\"IH ~II lh, l'l .tllllifl~
..
-;, _.-
'
..
-.
296
CI'\OIQ'flf 13
b.& I ~1.1 In halt
.......
Ponern ~ Ond MoniOVIotlon
SKIRTS WITH UNEVEN

HEMLIN ES
Poi)OI NGOdOd
( 111 polJM'f \%
---Mo~lon
f<>nnuLII
l)lll'tl 'ct'Ck..'d
Wr~h. plu-. t..dua\ ,
A numbtt C\1 hn11llnt- 'IUIttnm tn '"' ~hK:N h\

CUI'\ In,; (II t'<"'lltlnJt 11~ flll.lllf ''"k .ir"' II) l~rna
lh(' lnn(r d!C if' lllfo("t'fll\:"1 llK fcIIIMIIlJt t"\olMpln
mil) tM' uw.l J\ ~llkl' fot urK'\~1 t~tnJh\ol:'lo-\llfl\
ll'C'IIIUtn\, ~!."'t''"" lk'1' hOOd\. <-llllh, Jr\d '"un
.
Deolgn MolySjs
lht dhf~ h drt\fl.lr \l..itt "'''h lundlr.tt~hld
hc'mhnt l~rnl 01 p-..mN ht-mlhk ""tlu
mJi) ht "'tlh 'I "'llhuut J?lhn\
\oJ..1 j.Ntlll ~~-~"

SubfJ<Ict 1 inch fnf ""'"'ch
Toul
1~"-<llf thtJ aw~l In L:r.iumn I ,rf ch<'

R.Idk6 l"ltdr Lhatt ..nd K'' ,l(n~\ to lttunn \
1 :!~:udrr
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Fq;re I
cornu froid ot p.aprt h \
,\ 10 '
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r.-Jtu\ ffi~,I.\Urt"fTI~MI
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thor 1:\t IIIWh nurt.. \li~n t.ap: mo J\I,Ut' ,JI IOkt
~nd ptult..lti~'I<M thruu,eh .nl~d '<\llh n) ;~nd
ll) nutL'Io-1'1.)("(' I fl'Cil~11thWUJth lht: hlt \ .Uld
dtolW thr radi U\ ilnJ h4.:t!1hn4'. \('\ ~IC,\" zq2 (m
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%-4
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mJO!'t: ('!! In' Lutnpr.

~-
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t..out~ tadnn ior ~ tdt In u...nn

l.ildlu\~
Ccut01 SIM Wllh Hondkerehoef Hem
\\.1.1)1 mNIWrnMfll
lhtrltJ.Ju-.n~~ ~lnchn."'' I !n..h lhf"r.Mitu"

nw~mntrtt ,.Ill tw t- 1 Iii lmtl-n.
Ltn(lh pl\n brm. ~ dn-lrnf _
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2 ,z ~~
JQid ~
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s (I( tht
on t..it l..tbd (OI"f)rt of~ x.
rb\G~, ~I
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.... "d"tt: .... '1.1.11;. y >r.lold.
C.
pno
TM-OQ. .l c:Vdr .- bt ._. ClGh >'i

b QMa::xt.,
~~
~' fvc bad 1l.&r._

Tu ..I v~ 1!'"'"1 IID4 NO...._,.
1ft
pr.t- _,l
f~!_
Cut the ~tram ~2ftn.
....... ,
~.#
~Q
~~
.,....
,;ukk.
ftQt.ll' 2
Cut th\' 't.ut h om tht f'J(ltf
If t~o ~arm "'trt- cakubttd. <Ut In half
If foot \4.",1/fl\ "'~''' ""'"vUtl-d, ,ut \._In ltlln
four C'Ciultl pilrl\ rnot \llnwi'U.
...:otch co lcknUf) rn.ltthtnJI w ..tm\ ~w..,.
I"KC' 2~4 frH opt)llll\ J~ lht f'I~Unlt'111 1>!
chc ~tt;~mlhn
flg<JIO 2
UnhI\J IMih''"" llt.r~ tit, J:t.atnlul\
'*"'' "~
"""'
,,kh '" ' h"\1 Ill
/~!flfflllol (olf I nt,\!1"

ht l lnll t ..l.ll ll\. Ulko\\' I IHIIU~ tilttl' f{ll Ilk' ch<:fe
C.rcular Skrrl wrlh Groduoled

Length Hemlrne
()O<iOn Anolyll$
fbt \k-.lpt h' J ,>tll:ol\" ,jhl!lat , l.,lrh "-lilt liOf '11~ If"
lhcmcot tl~n tlk"c.lllht'f .\t~"~Ak cfh, I '' hllfP"-"'-' tn
11'k onfllt'l ,-,J\~ t~..-.n~ rot <>lllllrt \ \ .lhii \OirkJ '"'
..lut ,~hl'f
It thf ".a:J)-11\ "''C'rllrf'l"i .add I ~ ll'k h ' '' t.-llu
ft\c".W...rdiW'I11 h .... .1 ,eJthc'mf ,.,u\.1 ~ : Uk ~ Ill
raJ.w.._
""od ltlldl u ~ C lr,k { h..n. llJJ..,.' l"'tl, Lolumn" I
.1ml'
l~h unhw. \ hctt('\1 MKI lon~'~' k'n.glh <k-\irN.
\4Jd l'l1111Ttloi:~Uit'll k1l l\ ll~.'lht:"l, j\IU" 2 X 1Jdiu11.
l>h*''''nkttmu.Jllwlrot.tl n..,.a~-tu '""''"'fn ------~

h;alf .uKt
n~o~..t>\lh"11M'nt
r~e'
RtilvM 1"1111'1, u lnJ! II w \ l "iffil 1,,, tui.J lirk
r~g~.~~. 3
'~"tn
\\ljml 1\,.htlllk' \t'\ ~~~ l'H, Kutf' l l ut the

''"'htlhw trtMn l'-'llt't
f ;), .,.
t M'Ifd!
1)1\lrrn
nul\ lUI\t.,j M~kbl'l~ fQC U.M;'.-k .an d t U M t"M T'\

11hJk.\nlmnl. \tl\.IU1( tr<l'l l lln.J b.K~ , .,_.rt\
llo! JW \\ ,11\l (\11 \l' ll\lllJI: I JI\I!\1\ 11W!.l\U it'lll\l1l
ll.t.1fik-.; h't: thf tup \\art. Trtm I I ! lfkbn l t'lklu
ltf k-\'llfUih 1-rn&th of '-':Jn
....
1'- r,tutl fl'f lnl.l <tJn'lllirtt tbr ftlf'fi'I I<W nr...t

I11 \Ut1'1\ \lm 10 hllnt: I '<'C" ~ 29>4 lt-11\u'\
tlltnd tM, mJll'lt- .&nd U)(.kk. C....'(t ~11"1n
'
f"o,tl
"'''"
'
::- lnth ..J;~onttd ,.,,u,thnr <4 t. N-lndl rJd1u\

lull cifrltl_
' hcllf'lnl
kt~th
ZO Inc~
lvnC\"'1 k~1 h \ttluchn.

l " f..t\11\f\ 8 l '-I IIlii. he!.
hM"I
~ jrol ''""""
""""'" Plolond ~
,.,'tllnl tH J o1 1nciK"'
~----lt
r.,."
fog<n I
h~ld 1.._.1""' ou1d tUJit. M't~-tr \
\1
,_,
'
cM1e-h.all or t(I4JI kn$th t<'l .Utlpk,

Jl .1/ lt Itt\ IIC.' \ . Or;m the lwml tr~ wing
""'""''"~~..i n. c~-e t>JJtt' lQ-&, II
IK'\.I"'\.,11\ .)
'"'"'' l<'n,:th ''' 'L:Irt. MarL.

f,hUU\ llli:J\O f (lnC'III m illU)
l /2 inch f(Jof
\\,.l, tlln\' ,~-.. m M.n l..
Two Circ les at Waist (No llllusto ted)

Poncun Piol and Monlpulollon
~ ~~'11\l lr(' IU\'IIIl
IWt'd~"tl :
\ \'ilht
111~',1 \lii i:IUt'lll
J)l!l' '~.l m .tiiii\\JIIt \' (two w:un,, ,tdd Z lntht'' '

I OUI ' ''.111\\, ,1111.1 I I lid"'' )
h) lk\'eiOjl ol !.II\ ul,u S._hl \\ lth IWtl' lu It'' dl \'1ll''

t lw .kllu,t.:~.t ''"''tun ... lllt'-.llUit'm ""' ln lt.'ll
' '"'' ''' '''" ''"'"lll''lllt tU 1t1t utumn 1 of tht th-.&rt

1cx.;~h r.ldl m hu th t' lttll~lh ltlnl c\h Utt!l ~ - It''
1/]. hHh
\"\lli\HH it dl'"\
If lilt)I( d'' 1(, 1II f'll I &t/ ol t " "' I ,J, ''" .1.11 lhll'l. , f /l ~
IlK' IIU!IIt!r-l 1'1 ,1"/t \ lllfil ,,.. '' "'' IHtINfll'll"l
''" """" .m.t '",..'''' t ''" ,,, '' ''
,,lot
Gathered Corc utor $i.;t1

(Notllluslroted)
Ponor n Ptol ond Monipulo'ltOn
li' .k!J t;.llllt'"''"' tht- ~, ..tilor '~~ .a v ...W S.tn
lrl!. ro.t.~ l~ "'"' 'tmt.l'U~ tt ,,..ml"k "'"''t

nk~~ n-tknl ::4tThh1." ....tJ'I .,hc-.,_ r,-c-.;:)lh
('f\
t.! Ill( h(-o, 1
l ,,.~,<'
c: ln..h" '"'' h.&tt .an-1 f nd 1.-..m' '"'"\"\.1'~
ult,,"\furnn :::
\ . :O'\ I ! l ~nd <I IClt prIMc l '\C' tht
n~" lJ!o,u.-at<d Jn thh d~('tc-r ,1\ nU ' thr

th.f nu,.,r ('olttrtnmliJ.lf\l
~~ ,-,....,,t::m I
Jl'f' "
&nd : un M
1. I
Sleeves
'\\..:n-.n 1tw 0\ n "" ... .tuUI'fl'
fht ~a.u1 ,,tht-.nt~: .an4 \J.ul\k'Wtn
1 flt- br<'<IL!"''nl It "'IKIC' Ihot' l.lrrt'f 'l"'()'o

l n hlt.K U.Jrt 1\anp 'tt.al$-hl ht.1CT11ht ~irul
TF
vt dw w.mt"
TF
k'\~1.
\ p-c \tJhout ttt' c.tn h.t'T J:INin fullne"'S~ .11 "';a,:'t dun
~~PM
TF
\\"'idth of th< h mlll'k' ., '.allnl '"'r
llu..J11' cae 1hc \l.t.th h<mliM It th mcn"('ftM'flt
..
1f
TF
TF
7. ftw ~C' b-:1"'" d.art kst" uwful fQC ck-o.~n..
Nll!OOUCIIOH
$i.i'oU ~ O"'itGD eN'S
--
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,...,.... - \lllrO'll ~
~SIJ:i">'U
rfllt'l(hC... (Ut..a
WlDDI'G SUFoi'U
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S.t "',....
..... iiObgT
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lt:o.rr Otr" I,V <J"'O
SUMO.:J$
10aoc: "'" o.e
Seo!'4ac:.CSCU!
COWlo.IDU
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ecr~.ac~
TF
-C<I'
\I.Jn tJ.an' ~..an be: c-totlthtnnl ttl ett.at~ spt.al ~JI:n1
TF
CSUMS
.~.no Coo
1'ho "'u'ttwn.J h tht '.11'/W ,., ".tlttllnt mt~Wtt'mC"nt
TF
OAAfUSS Sdlvt MntR'N
10 I .kC'11~U ttl tht .,r.11nlin~: .alfU tho!: fbrt of the sKin.
TF
II 1\kLmH; alunjt Jld4: )C'.ltt\) tnt.aru lhf' .tnj;I<H dtfft'r.
TF
MOOilfYIHG M~..al. J0 ttlOUC:l SU (Vl

CAPWl
Oo "'
PUfF S\.U\IU
12
\ t~tloO
I 'l 11 1 futlnt."\ lndtco~tn int''Vt"n.Sht g.armtnts.
IJ Jh( '*'tl.(ht r" the- f.atntc .alft\.t\ th\' r.ttlo or fullnnt.
,.
"
TF
T>
\-.-..am ~hMiit"' ~11: Jltm,J:, tht ~me w.un.
Tl
1be tJ.ut ~:\<.~" h nt''C' tnclv<kd "'ith o~<kltd fulln~'-
TF
\ddtn)o! fuUn~:n will f.tllln dltCC1hm of th~ ~;uh line.
TF
17 '"""''. \14ri ('U' \\ ltft 0'"'' '~ hen ) (1'-<.llnc h IJr.lwn.
Tl
OK. f'lo:Jt1U'OUI)' Utt f,,uln nne- (llti.'C.tlon ate I>Oll pleJh.
TF
19
~.\n nut l~t.lh
thai $11.ldu.ah h om \\.lht <Ht" arcotdlon
plth
211 ru.-"'' ut 'l.itt"lfl'ld: .and h.mg um:' en ,.,
th~
h crnlint.
ro
~~!ir~~:co
r~ot~oMm
F"*'-" ot Ceo
,_...01 Hem anoCoo
C1ACutAI HlMUNl SUMS
~.CI'Cit~
eo-..s
I'(I.A.L $d(VI$
PIOn ~101--ot'fiOI"' I
Go11'141it<l pttC)I;.-'*'On 2
Fbtd PotOI-[)eslgn 3
V.N1f~ SU:EVlS
t.ong LO!\IOI'n ~Ootooon t

Shott \.Of'llt~ ~- 0.\9"1 2
8ASIC 1&<1' s.rro'i5

~Wee. ..... Cr.~~':lf-'IQ"ftrYfo-.QO' ':)eo I A"'o;.
~ !lrlt-:C
sa....
l>O
liO
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ll2
ll7
lOl
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314
316
316
,.
,.
311
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310
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~
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lXI
EXAGGE~Art.O 1&0' lUI/!
.D
SE\H"V~ "iS!
J)
Term,no~ogy
......
'~~ ~r t_.ap Cun'C'd top r,j ltw ""'"' hom rrom ,,,
C:p hfilthl l)f,t.anct hf!ft'l blrc~ I<> Up .11 ftft!n
Hk~ lnc-1 \\ ~ ..,t P." ot the

up lr m ttl lmoo~r ~'t
w.n-.. 41\ldlttl t.bt
\~-c- uw. \4detscn.alallow.lln.;lf o11 t1tttpt. t!bcM
~ ""'' k\rl$ ~tent tfW Cbn.mk:ma-
of tht .um an.J &tlnwu'l~ t.tw kw lr\"tdom ~ lhOII't'IM'nt IJ!w t.Lr'lfn hl.'!ll'l I I ! to! cw "kft ktkbn.-
<..ap t Ate- Ol.ffttfflC't bt"'"'fth ttw c.ap &nd ~

mr. v.tr1'Dt1'!1 ir..r .. "" lrJI!II l to 1 '" "> inc.bn
ll ~ ~tl ~ kJQhon of dw &n h
I 11r C: ....,. of lht .atT'Il.
lrftt .- th
\\ rbt lf" c:l Tbt ilott..xn 1twmbnt '" tbt 'bor t.

'ift'\lt
"11h rtw ,.nt
~
Ser-n Sleeve
~Hn
\Jtr\n u.n bt dn.t~Md 10 fet lht &rmhok

\mt'l(othh or "-llh ~tht-n n.n an bC' dn1l:;Jl('d fit
ltd tof '-llh ~...,C~ttd fullnt'\'5 Jnd un br Nt to
an~
k-rltth
Tm ht-mlin.t n1 cht 'llf't\"t" on bt ftnu.hf'd tn .a
numtttr Clf "''\ "- .as \I\ ell be' allu~lr.atfd an thts ch.Jptn
iJconc: ftee lE.op ol~ up 1)

\Jcon'C'
Quinntnc '~-~'- \fit'\ 'I;" d.r'*'d ltu._, ltJUI tqual
pam frnm a.p tn ,.. rM l W ~ (Uldthnn kl'l'
(.nunhnC' (-.,,,,
"'""'
0(
-.--~loll ,J'It , ,..lft (If
_____
't'\C' Qwrttr WOtt.om..,.. ~ \
\flit"
ldef\1 th1
~'t-
nu,tt.ahr>nl
' o lch n. ('n<c no4~h 11-.diUtn lmnt ~ two

n.-~,hn ln~hUtl" bkL i.l\~t C..p nc,uh t~tn
~ht"tt \!'\'('~nil
\houk1tt mC'C1
...,
....
ktl-~t!IOtl ('.&tl \-"om
frtMn ttnltl ~uiniiMJ.
Elbow Dort VoriOIIOOS
"''t"'' PU\ ~ {Vm("ftt'd \nto mWt
l'ht> tltJn~ e;b:rt

pit ~ru 1~1 piNt\.
UNI ~-d .l\ ('J~. or UJn,.frn.:d tQI

othtr klt.Uk1n~ iJftl'Liml lht ~lltfft' OU1hPC' fl\1" ck
\\Jtn '.,l.tlion\
l-~ ~~3.114~~"' ~
"""'c:~~,. [bwl ~~kll'pk.....
n.
lh~p..n.;h..,~
41..,
: ..: .:
r.\(,) ~j,. l'k ~ : lrlr(_"b(oo.lql.m.! ~
f ).jlft vt I'INit
tllt'"""'
UrJ" \ l.nh IIrK..,. I lim h ~tltw(' .11nd

!.Un
l~"g) ould from d.MI pc'lmt tc.'l tlbc'"' k\d th~rt I 1
,_
"'"' *n.Jr.':"
O'l'l"'
__
__::.,_
lt.""" ~ 4.r. ~~
......
11\'C .....
..~ J.
Boslc Shirt Cuff
SlVES
..
lOS
French Cuff (Used wth Cutt\lnks)
rwo 1
....,"*'
On-Cull
1*-'l''l)l.tlrn)lth~i'<'
'tl 1llllt " Zlm.h Unf' hmn l oki I)''"' ,. lljloiilltl

lint M llllntllo~' ~'"1:. '''''~
Alkl I lu-th for c\lcm~m
p.pn kn~ttht-.t
')q~J.~.rt o11 "l'l(_h ,,,.. from fnld cqullll t<1o ttntt tlwruth idih
,..,,. f)lro~~tkllnt S l 2 1ncbc-l. 1cJnt_ \Url kal

nntth olllf+d add 1-tt'llh ~t~ to broth tnoh cot
I 'l)ute 1
tht (l.IJI <.onrwa ~
'1
.,_
,,,_1. I
.~
\dd IIZInth ~.,n~
Mad. hunclon pl~ll:ll\n+t In (fllltl '" t\ttnuon

(.tnl buuoohok ~'" hl\hn hum N;c.~ l'lft
( h.lJI4CI Itt on bUUHU ~lH.
( Ul flllm Ill(' 1\;)ll('t
'94'
u1lh ~~~ dt\dnp'\lin .11 \,lnct~ ll \\tdllh ~fill

u~kd In~ ntutlbtr ot ".11)' +wn~"\1 polntnt. ~nd \H
~"\"\c
rommcn ~h" tht Ni' 'hin t ull, lh('

l ct"n('h ull; lht"clrl')('d tulf. th..- tuUuptuft. o~n,l ll+f'
11ntlt-. comouh'tl t'llll Oth~r d"'h:n ,,.,1,111urn .art'
cull~ dC'\dOJX'tl U\!1111 thr ~tQ\r.ll!thlnk '''"" ,.., .i
t:Ukte. 'I he jttalllllfk' ,,111 b: .llhr~"d tu .u.wmn.. M.I,Jt('
()oil
I. lht
mo~t
.I
.l
'31
Mf+urC'nH' nh Nc~dcd
\uuthl h.m,l
l)lu s 1/2 to
l lnth ,.,,,(', (uti \\ldth :.' tl(~lretl .
I \oJWplo; ~ 1/ZIIh h Hm.lucJing ('.+w) for a basic
Un l f~l
lfl
..
m
t-
-~
i-
-I
-~-
1
tW<>I'>eco Poonled C\Jll
Figur& 3
~ ~cr
......
~2
SLEEVE CUFFS
buto(lbolft
C'u1 tra. ttw ~
L-ern--.J
fhir4ncnl
'I
\dd~.tnd~
F9J90
t~rlor NU l'"
"i'IC'' ~f'e' "'-' r.c ~lna"!:P~

ic."' on~l(\.'t hen.. h ro"ff F co~ n.: '
t1llf 11.1Utt1l ;\dd l(lilt~llllnf', ~Uolljllht Of
tUh\1\h~.
r,t,-nJ kn<th "' d"t< U'f'l""r n'r.b oc :he""' 11\'Cl
I ,: 10 I I : 10.:~ 1Tht. ..,.,.,.., ".trtrnn ~

b\ ~h'l: ,,, It (If ~~ o,;l!IT.'It'l'l\ l~ '\
lUfl 2 hllfh... \Vkl(',
\1kl 'l'.lfl\\ l~" .aU'"""'(~ ltx f\,l!~,m..
lci'IJ:IIII'Ii)( JVollln, biJ\. CK \-fh\\ji;la/11 .1\ ll'fKIIflli.lh

tot thr: nMl.cr eN lhrk: dt\J~tn cp4.ud\ ,uul \llljWJJ.
lll.\'- tho( ~D+OI ~
fOf )bin lllltlt:l ('OI+mU< tl<lfl, W,. PJ.Itt' H 'l
Selr-Foced Cuff
Ftguro 4
rk\~IOjl ~ ull tl \111~ ~''th'l ,l l hi\Ink"'"''
< ulf (all ht \1-t,l.t:,n'"' hllh '"l".u' '""n'"' ,.,

~ 11 , , .,. , ltlhll..tn
lhl\''i.
(_'ut h~ll J\k'l"'t'\ Ill Ulllll1l('t\' l lh ~I
.1
(utln,ln th, 1~
307
S<EMS
Roll-Up Cuff
Ooslgr. Anolys~s
Rollup ndh ;uco dtldHf,._
'\1 ;~tHncn~ t\tth lht
,31< "
.
ll
CW
..
\fnwrC":mC'nt 'f'C'dtd
\\'nu m.:.awtttntnt f'ltn
th<' flnhhtd lotnjtth ~r tht' "'f't'\t {bt."~\"'" httt~

k"\tltn lwmt .md ~ld tuU "'ldth h;.unrtt \lft"\\'
lcon~u, htlc'w llK'q'l'\
" In~ h\'\.0 c;-ull 1 112 lnotht-\
tlo. tfiiiUJ)). Uw til<'\(' mt.l\Yttn~nb oor JlUtc>nlll
n'l<';awtf'~nh V\4 thl1. I"'KT'\" f01 !litonl'"' tth a;f11.
-,
AtoW>Ono Cull wtlh-.,
Rg.~eJ
Ul"('\'(' 01 ,,;, \('l"'l.tiC' t ull\ liiiC'ht_'\1 tc, lht' \l~c Jnd

t\Un('(1 Ul- lo dt'\~k.P thl\ tn~ uf c:ufl. \ktt1mir10
IJt\ kk' \lfot\T Into q\Urttt' ~ ~~~ cb.n. ~nd

dr.t" .a \U;~I.,ctu undtr)(".&tn Unt.
Rg.~e
t.tln~h
thor \~l" tnlr\

mssuttnW'nt .and ~W dwdltc-r~t'
Subt_rlitt thl\ I'I"'N1U.rtmtftl hc>m
frj!U'1oft\'C'tohnhht-dtcnxthck-\tt...l l_.bd \..a

l)r>l~ lhrt"f' f"'t~lld lttM"\ \f\llt'nl 1 11Z. tndl('\ ~p.&tt
httaw ht-rn (.\ -8 ltlkl I ~hd \co(-tMIIn\ I. 2. .and }.
'"'
FQ1~3
Tbt ~ pa.uerc \~\art tar tbt *'""t.

Dtoftlng ltle Cull
._,
lACK
Tbt cr>niJ'k'lt 1lf't\~ 11i.lhJ\UJtnJ.
StUVE
Tr.kt' tht' NSk. ik>c\.:~
l)r,J\'1
c,k'\1Mf C\lff II~ jilu<lni.JfNI
l)u," .) ~~~bnt" ftMtttw t.l.tf1 J'l'Mnt tn th(" 1'\kl.

11ft'\ f.
Ohi<k
th~ tl"t''rde.J .Jjfhf\'n'(t' t~.~Uo~ll'
.1nc.t dtJft'
linn p.lralld to tht undcr.tJm of tht' fl:lll frn to

thco cull hi'W'
--+-----lin"
-----r-----1112
3
f;gure A
) l.nh/'l>rc.d to dt.,hNJ fu llnc..,~. :kid length (Of

blou,lnl(, .md mark \CIIItr Y. "here X polnb of
II"' '-uti \'\ICIH-1()11\ owrlllfJ.
'
11/2
'
Flgvro 2
.I
tACt
I,
"'cr
Sl:~:
FRO<
l'(lltl \0 th.ll ~lllfill 1 h up, M'\ thin ldowrl, ,ulll

M-ctlon i mul\!tl'l\'.lth.
l'h,\w th~ und\'t'i.'.llll\ l\'ilh ,1 wl,r ,m both 'Ilk-'
of ftlld :\' I{Uidl'' ,1ud Hit lwtn Ill\' 1'-'1"'' wlul<'
follltd. ttntohl.
I!Q'Ifl'l i
seporoled Cull
~~Jthc l'lft'\'"1"'> rhtn>.:1.1('111~'

,, 1n. ~lh the- f"
:,.- .111 .lllln.('lft\
,.,. nt (\''<"rtl('lll1'
('mil thtr,l ~1....,

\ ~t ,.1,~._ \ It tlx ..,1'\lr:tt(l'\. ~"\111 lNCI'l ~<
\JJ .......""
''*'""'
........
""
""
:(
SHIIES
PoHorn Ptol oncf Monlpulotion

F!QIIei to t> 5aMYe Coc
trim .ttlf"(l\ hnlltcl) I fnth trorn c~p h('c~ht
!ht'fnl jrtt " 'II ,nln,t: a~il)' frtKn ~nnJ.

rnm II" ln<h fll)tn t'.K:h "de ut t hC' und(ne.'lm.
\ckl 1/<tlndl
o n .,,..,h ~ldt of tht' ('011). Add
1c1 c1r r('rtiC'o\(' lnmltht' c.llp hf'tt:hl to <onuol ft t.
t'""''
,....,.,0
'
DARTLESS SLEEVE PATIERN
Jutting Cop
309
lltt' danlt''' ' 'C'-"'t' f\J.Ikrn dllftl) from 11'14.' hnk

S""\ 't' 111 t wo~">' It dl.l("~ no 1 ha\t' o~n tltW)W d.m
.lind II de~ nt\4 l lljltl to tiH. htmUnt'. lh pur1xnt h
to \k\C'Iop "'"'"-"'.,' """ ,.,t\k, '"t."'-1linjt ht:mlti'W:\
lfl~rt', biUtOjl, lx-IH, fullllt\\ lu the )l~t'OI ~P C11Ufl
\k'f\'\"1, .lind U "!~ not ttqt.thm11, ;an t'lhcw. <bn hhJt\
\W\"t"\t.
~'0 cbrtlt'\\ ~t'C'\t' piU\'111) oil It' IUU\U.llttd .11 lull
~u~;m .11nd .11 hllf l,;tlltrn
llw- b.a1k 1k'f'\t' l"ltc-rn u.n .111\0 ht u~ to dt
~'(' lk\;~nt.. \Jut t l ~ cbrUt"'' \kor\, ~tltfM
..
't'kll'
)implit) tlw ptot n\
...
Pone<n Plo4 ond Monipulotlon
r ......
' II
fr;l('ll!' IJ,),k
~
l..t11 lirw
Hlth.tdlllk ;~.II m.o~~r\Jnp. ~~
"'
p;anun
\ 1, ktUlrf'd down hom,\
.\C 1qWrtod down hom 0 .
llr;a'~ ;, lint frtMn C 10 f \t .o~~ rl.. ctnltl .1nc.l bbd f_
M C.t\1111!' OUI from c:.K h Udr of l 01\t"hJ U of t il
'\-('
1>-f..
t~oUIIt( (,.111-.:n
)l<'t'\'t'.
lll(lk;,l~ ortxuul
rr.a ,. """ of II~ tutlln~t ~~- St.$h ~nd

,pr..-.1\1 J/8 Irk h tntOt.: or I<"S) ;a) ck\lrtd. Bl~d
tr)
\k.TH~ l.tl'
. :. ::
mN\urc:mt m !\Llrl.._
Cut f wm I'Jilf"'l; duc..11d unnt'nk-d ~'1Clon
F~gu<o 2 f'-"-
...,
Dra" llm... l'C'111;111y 1111 hoth \llh"\ of tht' ~~:r.ainllnt

10 qu~ncr lht' ~let\'\". l.1bd X
FIQvro 3 Holl -
FIQVfO ~
\ho lt t"lll\'l"iJ UJI ~ll"CV\'\ ('.Ill 1)1 ~~lfl3ctd.
!\lll!..t : M Jl)' uf th\' hJ~l\ ''~'''"' frnll'l ~~.a~n

lim tU ulldl'f.UIIl Wolnl . l r,lt'\' htltll \IOtiNillm
Cllfvt' em lh(' hll<:l..onuhnlt. t Wh\'n \l'ln~ tht

11.1\( ) I('C"W, IIU.' ~'l'llh'l ~hiiHIIm. h (Ill lhl' h.'l\1
;met thl' fronl ;ltlllholt '' tf,\\'\.'\1 Jml lrimm~.'l.l
\\'h('ll unhltk'd.)
./
'
'
'
I
,,
..
;,
....
'
310
c;:nopte'M
14
Fullness o1 Hem
fo,.o 1
MODIFYING ARMHOLE TO
REDUCE SLEEVE CAP EASE
Uw lhC' \J~ItiC'\\ IUU J)JIIttn lor th'l' f~ 111c,_ln~
1~111
AgvtlS I 2 3
~...\~oilose,:tK'd \\1lh tuii!W'\UIIhC' ht'ftlllnr fnr llar"

e,v pthr" rfoqUirt ooh 1 -'.!tndt t.Jf' (,h;- c 1/4 lm h
(\tl Nth slOt' C'lC uotlltf ncltrlt), "'mh h ,uflkM:rllffl'
IIIUI\C tr\'rt' thl' Nil nl 1,1(' ,ulll
f-9-"412
FIQII 1
\k't-'H' li("\.IKrtl
l 'r.au \k'f-o. t' 2 ill\ h('\ h<'low bi(('jl\
IACt. \
l)f .. h Mid ~UI \lJISh lh"'') ftOnl htm lO, but nt>4
11nOUI(h, C"O\pllrwo.
Lumplt-:UJNl( II .fffl(hf'\ \lkM' I '~lrKII
i ('Ji'W': t 4 Uk h "'""''m m t'ol d1Uubutt'd
\te--ll\
loW P"J"'::. ''la<:t 11fto\~ nn p..lpt'l, ~nd ipro::'<l.

hf((' tht \&t_'t'\'C' ~nd ftont ~t Undt'fltm ('1,1
\b.r~ nnt\ht-\
n..._
\'nd l UK"",, "nta from ~nd t-ltnd CUT\t

I~ tu u~m IU<'Olll~ tht (!Ufft
.\dd I z.inch ~
\\,ul 'IUnt not(:~~ cut nom P"PCf.
fq,& I
lf'IMI\ ~C'Iolromlttn.ttlolftiC)~"(-'111\ lmln~
lr!Ncm
OphOnS
l.Dl'l'tf triVIt J~nd b.kl. J~rmhott' "'"~ ~ up ttl
1 " rndl C'fl r r;.c.un U
\dd J,lb l.ndt .at \houlo.kf\ ~ ~ '<".tm\. tu
7ftO lh,(Ute' !1.
lol'lft arf1C'W1t I .fro 1 !. tnoth ...,.. il.unl ~'\"\
lf'(Urt
- --
,.
"'----
PUFF SLEEVES
l(!~
.(!,)
~ . \i
f~el
rnmcop 1/A 1o 1n
F<gcwe 3
Unhld p.11l('fl1; dr;m ~tralnlint. him lmnt 'kt-'\t'

undc r.um cun.t j\hlld~'tl. rc0\1 .
~-,.Sc7>::
f,g.Jto l
~~
r
1r
~
.
PUH S~UVE
(DfMGN 1)
\In\{ ~n.h klthdJI..(.ll..:\"1; ~~"' tk"'o('>
CUrt' ,ho.,r1 \llt'\n. "('('\"t" ~~ o'ftJ A-...~ <I~~

u~ ~lh<''~'~ mr.a.~lt"l':'('l''l
1\ \IN'\t'lN~nd (dii\U\ oil 1miHIU\'Iti.S,h '" 'h.an N'

Ut.t'(l hi 'o4'' llh' \huH 'I\'\'\'-''
:.+ ncl'l
<'~'
C'""
the I<' -cl o..C 1ht' 'kol.'\'t' kf\_(11\. \..Wl ...._,.,.,_,,

f '.ll1\pk 'QII.ll:t \'\IQ ilt'r._~,h \'\1'1&1 h' lhf ,!h. l\
nw.l..llr\"'ll1l'1111 H\: ~ !n..-t.r.. ~'IJ \\,.ttl: 11Xht"'
,hm,h\'1.1 1\l.nd "'1.-th" I lndH
.......
rii.J'
~\'<"""(-'' th.al en.! t-tl.~"' ('~ moe~.."'~ the' .MTIII.lt
l:
.
'' '
......
'''""" ,)f ...\~p
ll
f\J ' " I
I " Ut oUttt." h.dl ''" ... " ' 1\.\~ 't"' ltjtllto' I
' I'"'' A jWloi,Jh"'-" l ltt~-h '\ Ullhll\ hlil
11.-, j-.tlh motl t.kl 10llh ltttttllnr ,,., J<.ll'tliollm
t .._.,,,,.,~.a-~tlr.'hl"''''~' ~'1'1'" ll"l l '"'"' I

,......, II'!. '"" ' ' ''" l''l'f 1 0111h ho Ill h"'ldl!llli.
t '"'' '" t t"-' ttm I'
,._..,., ,n.t.. '"" '""""'
lt(l"'hfl ""''' ""'' """"'
"lo'4 ''""''"""''
""'"'....' ""-1'lt "'"" rn.(tt' ,,,,
., .. .....,.,,
~notln'nt ''"""''" """'""" ""'..,
"\lu " '""'' Uf' r"..- '41' t. ,r.:ato t"'ll

\1 rl. n.l ,Sr:a.. "'"'lolltnt
\II
" C
1(.111\t. ''"
Ihfl'"'
.
,.,_'11(
,,.,...,,..,,
""''"'
..... , ........, ,.... , ...
li.llt~lo hm
'"' '"''"'''
"'' h' .m '"'''""' 'lath "'"
1
lito h"'\
'"'''~~~~ 1
1,,..n 1,.1.1
'''"'' ll'"'t.llrw It
,,,......tt-.a.h Wl IU "11111 \IIO.Io !'O(".t.!tl ""'''"...._ 1, 1
"l'-"<illtol" th \lti: ,,,t.,\fh!W
11 ~ HOC""'"""''" and ltonl '~ ,,,n,. Ito.,..,..,
,...., "'
t. '"I lftlthot J'ol\lol"t
:.
'k," '' ''' t~<.t 11 hukl '"" \'"'"'' .to
"'"'!>!'' ktlt:lh\
""'" , ...(. \Ill"' ...,~.~., lh
.-uul"'"' .-. '"''"'" AI'
htlllk" ' ' "''"'"'' t;.lt ..k l!tlo
'" U t\llh '"
to'""""''"'"
I h. o\.n tk\\ '"''' \' 1'-lh Ul i ""''' -1\ al.h 1\lol 11111 '
Itill; tllo' ''\""'' lhltliln "' 4 h~llot lh '"'"'' ,,.n
.-u,t
1 '"'" hll ,., ,til '" \ II tth.hUh lllo"tlt It"'
..... ,h. l\oll"'
tl~tll Cir( l\l$1''''"'-''

Oc~' Alntv t.it
"'"''" .. '"'''~ ll6.n hm' 111 .. 1 \ .u.tll

\hA\tlt~ 'tn,holtlhIU\'I'HII'-'"" ' tmho''
Itloll\ ht II \t.H\.
' " ""
.....-,
C IRCULAR HEMliNE SLEEVES
t ulklt'~, 1t I h 'll"l \ 1nd ('up
unUI '"''"' fl
\ ltll""htl<l" llklll..ltll(.lh>tlt
'"""' '""' 1'''....."'"' .,, ....

._,,.,,''II""' hur In t.... ,.,...". ,,.,, ,.,.,, ,,.,"""
ht1n
\
'Wo
: -'
l fllo<IJ lft.o ~IMP

I,.J,.II>t J:U nit~ t'tlt,h, lllolltufl lhll ''"''
PoltOtr'l Plol O" d MOt\lpulollO"
\\11\'(
I 1\l\lllt' I
,,.,
I ').Afl '}
""'''' '"'' \lo.llh'lll ~oh,lh ""'

lrhn ln~llt lo't."''', ""''
~to\htlhh'
''"" h
t-In'"'
ll,h 1' ot.llllt'\\ 1~'\l' lt,h lo. ' Itt. ht 1"-.''"'

"''"'''''' 1\1\h' lll ,,,,~.~ ... " lhh' ,1\ h\\\ lh ..k'\ .,.
111'111
llh\11 \\,1\h li t h"\
~ Ill ' '-''ll lhh"' h'. lltl l h hiU~h. 'I}
''
"Ufl(
1Dflo1.< ,.
t ... ,
\j
''""
J\'J.ft,\
' '""'' '"' '"It,; Ill
11-t,t" \; ',a!!I'U'>\" ''"'' h
~ h\'l'll ~"'f\"(' \\U\\'
PETAL SLEEVES
Ooslgn Anotv'''
lllt> I'Hotl \11"1\C' lt"\.1 ulbiC"\ jli1AI.I\ th \ltt'\t \1.'\
tln.m' t(r\\ f)\tr ut h c~tht r .11 1t" ur 1 he- ..at:n"" rt'
(~"''""'"""' In numbtr ~tl "'n'' ,f!ld ;u \.llf\lfl

lfngtht \('\( 1.111 p.'UII \h"1"\1 \au Ulu,trtrd llw- full
<brtk,, \l('("\1' h uwd 141
thf' ru1 11M" ltl't'l1
\k't'\1: unoekrm (UI\~ h tltllliiM:d All thn"" '"""
<k'\\..,.,,
IIIHt\ rc c.k-''('4"1"'-' hmn Ulol ~mt J'oltltm
11\4 ~'C" m.a) bt "o~ 1f.fkn1 tM I!I'M'd \tc- pi({' UCJ

tcw ~tu\lllllt t11o\ .urntt~Jko
,.,.., I
F1QI.J'ft 1
Pa!!Om Plot ood Mallpule!oen
hokl .,..,_.,
Tr.klt~llk'-\ ~If 1'\KS. lntt~ .t 'IUIIh"f lii'M'
I'I.M:c 'k't'\'C' '"' tht fctkl oft~ JWpt'f .tnd \ptC'.M.I

ftl( \lol\llnl htmlhw ~"('l"J) Of u~ rnt".t\UfC"
l..tbtl \ rr.-t ttw ltufU rmhuk (Uf\C"

\fl'rl. kf'ltlh Cl( bdl \k-or\C' .ll~ tiN~ hoIM hi
mtnh KiH n
~ clhl.,..,. k'd cw lu11 ..nath

\U"h hn.r bo:1""'"' the \ hnr .uul
lUI\\.
lt.~otC' th-.: !Utm t~U1Iu1t. 1r.J horu utckr;,rm
p,.,,., ,)
I hoi\\' .. ,, irt\'o,lfll 'uru 10 l.lptl unoknf:.Jnl

( u t hom Ilk: 1'-'l:ltf, untold, dr;~w ;tr.tlnlnw-, and
Him lmfll .umholt' (UI"~ llutiJ),IIIC"rn 'lhown),
~r.:lnllu
<..ut \I.IVI bnn 1!1. noe>~chrnuch.up
, t 1
,;r
/,
Plon Petot-Oesogn 1
Po"o'" Plot ones Monlpulolion
FIQUr& 1
lr~u- tlk' d.u1k'\l \k't'\~ tu S 1/Z lnth... tk j.,..., hkt'P'o
lint:. lnc1utk- ..n rn.u\ln)(.'
31n
. ;,:
~ ~
N..
'
(\If\("
tltNdtd .1ft)
()r-- ;.Q:Wlftrlft.
\tt'..\llft In 1/Z hH.h .u tht undl;r~..m lh.tw"

lin\' tc) lh"' t.Ofnt"l ol 1114: \1~'-""t
1\ -U
\ lrKht'\ \IJrl.
A (
i 1/lln'-hl"\ \l.nl.
0
Ulol\\' J'k:loll \1)1!.'1111('.
lt.ltl' fu111t , ,._,_..,l(tlf''"' fnc fHIIIIJ~I.Il
C:ut th!.' 1M< I.. JX.Ial h u m U!(' JI.IJI'C'f.
'
1l
lr.kt' .auiiD b lbr trom ptY.

{ ut Ute t ,,... t!'tm :'W:~t:ool t:oat.,bok
f'9V'0 1
~~H
~ 2 ~....-.,.Pee@~= 1rAC !tat ~ p.aurm Kid cut.
''11->'<' ~ .. ~ .,.. ~
\lll:fl ul'kkt~\ .and Mf.a l.lw (\o'l:trrn.

.an.l uun thr
nu" I he:,,. n1"" ,,., fri'llTI 1"-~,

lk.,;'\1' \U"T
Gothered Petoi-Deslgn 2
f1Q'Ve4
frllrt' t ..uf..JIIC'I.JI
FIQUf 1
fy;unf' luf ll!.~ll ~ I \WtMJ un
drr..,.~m k-rl(lh lutttle'\ flklkltlu>lrn llllr h

oriJtln;tiJ'I('tll
h.rn< tht b.l\'I.JI('Ioll \k't"\'t' fOf lk-oJKn ~.
DGslgn Anotvlk
l)w.m \.1,1\h llrn"' t'I.JUilll\ ac:rl.7\\ lht' J~l1('rn ,
A 1.-rnt'rn \k'C'\t I\ a tll\ft-\t'<,lon ,~\... th;~ot

OnrM nut lmm tht \.liJl tu,'l't'l ~'ti~NI) .md
lt\-mlllw to .11 '') ~:lint wtthln tl~ \..._'i"<' llw
'~'t t.ln bt< <k"t-loptd at '""'j"~ kr\,;tln
.lind lulhl('\\ 11lt' llllft' dnl,;m 'hcrw th
fk'\tllmty Of ll~t 1.11111\.IR
\IU..ll":tt~
llnl~n ~I\ Jtl\tn ,.., a f'loi~M;" plllblf'nt \d
iuU tht .liiMihok \("C' I'~J:f' UU
.'
\dJ~~t lht',lllllhult-; ~ 1~1.'\' IIU
~..,.,
o.~~~~~
-\dtu\t It!' .armtwlk
!('('
LANTERN SLEEVES
flored Petoi-Design 3
~f't' 110
'\\.
<A
r ""' ~
"
SlVES
....
317
.'"... )
.,
.-; l
,lft<\..,
rons
-Siloe>-
Cul \Luh !Ant"\ w. nne throuth t.hr hr"mhnor

PIKt' on dw paptt .uW ~ fo:tf ~thrn tt\.Jrn
pk: l1nc.h t'Xh 'Inhun. 1.!. tnch ton C'.:kh 1flk of
antn
Trk:t ;and l'ffM'lt dw pttt<trrt
Wd 1 .nc;h to ""-P hrr#ht BlmJ .md c.vt trorn
lht~ptJ
( ut ib\h linn 10. rMM th>u~. tJ~ ("olp

l)r;t," 'JoqU.UnJ JuMklinn on lh(" fNIP'-'f. Squart
c.ut fwm t~h 'klo~. of n:-nlullnM. for honrontot~l
""<>' I
uidtllf~
\IIJtn Ilk C'olJl "''h \~rtkolllinc. .Jt KJ Mnt'l' of tbt
und4:rw.MI'I' \'nth hlxuonlal x;ui<k.'4m~ Sprt.ld

the l'dlh:rn )('l.tiQn~ ;mi.l Ha<t'.
)h.Jr~t tlw l'tUIIto" Ithin 2 in<hn ol oocc.h potnt.
Cut frnrn tilt!
Long Lon tern Sleeve-Oesgn 1

\ff\1\utNrwm Nnl.ll
jl.lflt't.
Aroond h01nd
fiQ .r 8
Ponern Plol and Monlpulotton
'
'
...:
..
I. . .,"<>'
1 ,.11~ 1 tfUllth'f"''\IHl!l\ ;(,

M :ulr. IIIWh.JU u f til( Jtmmdhollld fll(',l\Uit""
tncnt, ll''' l/21n~ll hmn N\h
of tlw 1ttJinat
"''l'
tht h umlhtc .
l'lr.tw lh\\'' lwm the" 1h t m:ttl.' tu hiup,,
l)r,tw ,1 'l)'ldlm. h lru Ill'( up unm tin lnm
(\'.l lit'\1,
..., .
fql!69
fl:~lfAI f' lut lhllmtU \\oct'\" ollld c.I1.1W th{' ~tAIIIUilt:.
(Ulilndlllll&tlfh\flf-m~.,.....c.ur\ ru ..uu ...

nnr P"''-'1 1' d~rrd, lir.u ur..kt"' ..m\. \tor
ll)I;Uit' l f
l<guto 1
I r.l.t tht: d:utlt'\\ tlc\'H'I'IIINII ;tnd ,llllll.Jtl> lrl~
l)hidllhc 'h~ \'t' hHo d$1h1 J),llh .ukl nurnhu
C'ul ,1nt1 dl~.ud tlw unth,'(l('-1 ~'l.tl(m' t,h.~-d

.'lll'.ll
\I
r~
'I
-- s--~
318
SlEEVES
ChOO'et 14
r.guto <~~ uPP4N sr.eve
( 1.11 \ l..\ h lh lt' ltl. not lhro u,::h. tht t ll)

I'IJt<' em th(' l~' l"-'' ~nd ~prc~d tht desired
.amvunt, 't'HUt', ttl tr.l"
\tt.1\Uit d<nnl I lnth he'lom tht' ~tom 1-..:.nc-1.
l'kml,l ruf\'t'\1 lhw to tht' ur~r~;un,.,
'\tMcll '-'"'"''' lint ol \ lf't'\f'.
Short Lontern Sleeve-DeSign 2

Pottem Ptol ond Monlpukltlon
Ftgure 1
1 riK'e ll;Kl: h;a,\1 of th~ IJ.mlt..,, 1.aucrn to S lntht'l
IX'!OW bkt'l~ ht( lutk- lht Iron! Undc1JUm tur,'i:.
nt~"' ;t lln<' hC\nl hkC'jl\, t'ndln~~: llllnt"h "'hum
tlw hC'mllnC'. ltlftd.tn lint indktn tht' orltUN1
<ul frtlllll HK' l'ii'M''
f~M2.3
( ut \k-.,:\'f frorn l'"'l)tl,
Ult .,nd oq~iil~th(: upper fromtht lawtf 11tcm.
unekt)('Jin )
OUI\~ 111~nttm
\I) kiln(', tlhttlln.: tht Ull'llt iind
~'t'l \UOil\ ~ulll)
llr" ).1,1 \h linn .md Llbcl

Itt Mlltl\lth\ ;umhok, '< P..l:t Jln
....
..
._ .......
I /2 -
2 3 '
' >...:.,;,......."-'-"-'
F9Jie d
( :ut \l.nh llrW\ 10, nut t tnm~h. I he r.a1) and h(sr'l
of hm h \ l>ctlon\
l 'tM.(' ~~~l\ t' on fold ()f thl' l't.~pt'r t 1'10hU \ of UJ,..
pt'f 'it~ li(lll IOUl ht'\ ftld linN.
ftgure 5 lo--Ner~
De\elop the ltw.tr 'o(1.1inn. ~rlff') l mK Ihe wmt'

illnOIIIIll ~\ ltlt UpflCt tlrt\("
319
$(U\' ,td th t 11Nk'J .unl l t\W~f ' l'ttlon 5 (<' \,IIIIJ11(':

11!1.
1 1/2 lndw~; .'14 huh \',<h ildc of (tflttr lltwl
no1ct tlw IMih' "'' :uul fr ont umlt'r.aml (\If\ \'.
llsiCilll t'l'llt\'1 lhW cd thl' \It'\'\'\' '''t IIOU\ linch J l

\ t ylttlltl\', h iNUiilll/. th\' \ Uf''l'tl lhW. t l ltiiK'I ,lthl
IU\Wf ' t)'llUIII' ' lllli'IIIII.'J,UI\' Ul(' '>J, IJit .)
Notch whcu ,IUl\\ n .u ul t UI ll(~m lh \' 1" 11'1l'f l ' n

h ld 111ul uhn t wnt un\Jl'-t.Utn <"11 r'"'
I ' ;.
t
"
4,
SUE:vtS
Crescent-ShoPO<S. Extended Cap
""""" I
SLEEVES WITH EXTENDED CAPS
Oes1gn Anolysls- Oos'gn 3

l ht 1.1('('\t <-'It h \'\ltmk\1 I01111111K .t UC'W"\'IU
Do1edCop
)ha.1W'd ''~klint' 1'-lla.ll!."lln tht .umh ~k hi\IHI{1k'ln

loe l":~ll::n ~ h~li"l'l\' lhh l'lfnk\ t "-~I"'!~ uu 111.\\1
'~"' uw Almh,,k
~>es~gn~n2
~~ nt('flld~ ('IU1 tnvn tht Nil~,. tlw arm .md h C'C'Il

tro~k'\.1 1:>\ thf'ff d.lrt~ rt'l' ~ ! ~n 1 ~ N\('d M Iht
Qmc' ('lnttn ~'ccort tJut ctt.r
~ li'C' ,c.~chrt'
~ c.an hot tfururuttd .h d.Mtntf'd. ('If ' " ' J'll:\" liO
or
.......
<Jir.,
Pattern Ptot ones Monl~n
<w
h<K'\' \~"' ''""'~ ;mo.hU rnarUL'I$'l-1"'" ('('111~ ~o:umUnt .\. Ma.tl. f 1 1 " 1nchfo\
dm\-, trnm \
,,.... ".u\d ..- " lnchn h o;.m \
\q\l.ltC' 1n 1 l .\Lneh lint'\

tl'lttn .\-8 .lnd \..C.
l'f'l.llm 8 .and ( ltM1 bf..
llt~ AIC"Uf\ni hntfromOtoE tof~r.attunbt
k'lf -'TW!n:t 1tk armhnok
~tu:p
l.ut thr ~'( ttni'D ~pn.
PottemPiolond--
Tr..,.t.lwbwe~t'
()rnl ~ b~ ~ wM ,.. ..,
321
fut
~ lmnawctlllt t~
\ wt. E too .anJ
\let J
l.Uil urfmt from 'lOa Mid \to C.
rrcwn thr C"C'tttn ~r;lln
'"""'"'~'
I"Jrnw 1 'Wrldl --~~ ~ uch \l,a1.h hrw .lt ttw ur
11 If) .n.:.h OU1 trllftl t..kh Uoit- 1Jt noot;.h I It) tnO .II lfw'
gU~.nhnt ot Ow ~ bnt Th1' (hrntn.ttn ~ Cll
tJw or t.bt OlvtColni ln\UUC'tklft II lht ,umfkllt h.U
hmt~~Wtc-d
t:UI tbt ~~ trom ~ (h\o(Jifd un.ntt\kd 'IC'\:UOO\

!~olft'oll
FWe2
~I.Hh
from ..-..r to. not thmu.gh. romcrs of
th~ bt'-"1:1)\ lin~.
IW.w bitf11) I
I J~ ln~hc~. ~prt~
\C'Cik>ll..\
\'\IU.IIh .,md tr,al't
t ,utl'f .md m,arlt. ll~d;ut
polnu 1 1/4 inch~
do\\11 l.'.tdl (~x-nlng. Llt;J\\ d,art kt_t~.
fiQUf& 3
Jo1d cbn ~. CUJ'J)n.t JW11trn to bltnd up.
I It
I \
f.guro 1
I I/"
ro~
1_MOV~~""'C"'l'rl
F'IJUO 2
t ut tCI n!."t U'lf\"'l.t,;h
\IUK'II\\ \"UI'f .-.apl
tor UT'I<o)()mtf n
h'm.tlfl n-.. -.1.\~ l.nrqf"''"

1\k~ l"{''f unJ<-mt.&lh ,mJ
'-".'\If(
"J'h .tJ \111111 "'"1"''11'\~ 1'\ .\1'1-11
f!QIS&"
Cnrold .1100 m.r\ notthl"\ .and p.ond\ <min
l\~t'I,Uf\"(' " the'
,,('1("\"('
\t..htl~ th,
"'""'"''" 1\' 1
"'llrt l'f\
'"1"1'1('\! """"'"'(' .l:.,_t W'<
.l " ' I'"'..J
:h.!,,,..._,.,""'
l"'nm~ 'J'f('.okl "-'-"1"-"h '''ttl.- \.lt"''
u"-~.uh
~,dlr("
bnt' m-.n \ ~Lt.-1 t..' l".ncl ,.,..,tth

ll"'--h\"' lf\~, th . 1, ...,ll. o.bJ." lu~ hl'
-"' I i\.l ltd ~,,till .If \ . ll ..n.i fIll~
...'l."Ur..t "1th \~.al .- til"-""" 111"'" ,.,, no-t .ali\it
h 11-.. "-"'"''" ~f\.,l"'-'11' ... ""''\hi nq,. t.. ...., "\If\"
1 14
\ 1.14 ln"tm tbt I........ I.

' ,1\ thtl'~h."' 1 .,, ('J~._.
322
SlMS
CF'IOr"IPf I <II
323
Steeve with Verttcot Pteot
~~.:n~lnu~
Oe~n AAo1y&ls
and CJ\tr lht \lt'4.'"' ~...p . l ht 1>k.11 h ,,ild14"\lln

J:t"lll\"1 ,11 the- \htMikh I lip
I ht '"-'t'\"t"
ht dt'\ti<JI"l'd "'''" Uw dl1t'n1o
hal(\k't'\'t lt\ufld.ltinn 1ht' hlmlin-.: '"" 1.- hlld l"t\
th' ,j;nh Jcm\\ t lbcm. It \C'I to, '""

thrnu.;h. fh(" ~,~ndtr~ ;nu and diHl fll ..nl
flr.t"" \"(""IUUIJtUli.JdiOt' U;t.tJillifM'IIl .)11UIIir1
A jltt<ll I\ ltldt-d lhtnUJth lth lcr\.lh
~,u.-11 1 1 , .21oc:hn uutlrorn

'I'YI..-.:
"*"h
' "'".c>n~thl ~ptf
ltk UIJ<-hnf' ~Uh II tllw.
\lt't.~l
cufl\, tla\HC, nr .. dr.llwo.trtnK ll)t""lJ:n Ia, bt. 1hc- undu~.arn c.an l:lt' litfltlt<d to 4.(ntrul hlllnn' 11 a cull
h ~rt'<l, \('f' I~J:t ~n\. \\lj,N lht .11cmhok uwnl
1c:1: m C"Otltml T\"1'11.llftlfiJ: NM" fl.k"nd
tiK' tn\lruc:tkt!l\ 1n l).l~t

J"llobkm.
\t(ll~h up 1 1 .! Jncht-\ u.wn the- ,ruw.k lint

\~rl..~.l.tbt-IU
Dno"' "C\lf'T ,,.ICII (.,to ll.uk.l fwm (, ld f lhf

CUf'~ lutt lftU\4 mt,ll\t.ifC'--' I.IKhn II II de-n IMIC
ad!'"' )Jirr.ld
lr..ntht ~-t
C"Oft'lpk"t( tht p.attHn.J.n4 cut lrum r"'f't''
tht
""n
d.Jt
01
~r)flt..:omJMttt'htknt" nul\h ll1211tc.hnc>n
('Xf't \ldt' cJ thr rib:)\\ k\rl .11ml '''"" t'.loc. fl d ..ut
~If
nn. llt'lltn 2 1\ a t~JUdtt
rr
I
,:....
PoHem Plo4 ond Mo-lon
11n
11n
rItoguoe
1 Dot.- """""'
lllf' d..llnln\ ~'t h """ _., ...l..llh"
""
t,,_. Jr.,.,
h'~
~,_;;
J (
;;~L
I Of rorkrc-nc.t, tht up h \..lind tho. (\uddint> h~u.atttf
:---...,
W(UOflt h \
ftgcxe 2
l(llld ~ptf ,11nc.l \oC.IUUC' ~ IUW" M"nl"o\ the: JJ'Itl

Mh'lthndf~nlrC.mlh' ''~
~~~ p.atttfn Cloll ttl( (okt. JH~ thor bKTp\ larwwilh tht JtUk'-:lutt \4.'\."Uit
rr.M.t' tht ~" up hum \ to \ <and trco 1tw
t~mtuu
~h.a\tlft' th~ up from \ to\ Kn.cr..t

\hlft tht I"'""'"" ln4.hn nn lUidl:llnC':. l'.ath:fft l\
J\otl,lll('l ~lth tht' fuld. )Utl .
1r.IC"\' Itt U'ltnplt'tt' the- 1\,ilt\'fll, \li'IIIIIUt h<'m \
Gothered Crescent Sleeve
f9Ae I
I \tt'l\d X lhl\' U\111)1 A tO)\. tnt.l'-'lltfflt'OI \qu.ll~
Qes;gn Anotysls-Oeoign 4
The \k'('\t t:\t.nch bound thf' h..ll ul tht' .um. with
~iltheo
N)lltw.
nhlruOiflfl~
ll:h\ 11 lnf thf U\''l(.tiU.
\h.)(led, ('\ltn!,IC;'d up \lt...n , ~11h tht' lttUuwtng

('Jic,:~ptiuth:
\pt't-..lld
flUIIII
J. b 1n~ he
I Uf ti)Cift
Mtawrt up luM:hil' ''' lflfm 1 Jllhot1t-d .,.11ihr1

('Odlns; at I) .. nd
Cotupl~ot(' th~ IMIIltn hlt ll\1 lit
3"
l;gutel
formi11K oHIIlllld 11\oi: ~h \j,t(l l \l\-lt hlh'
,lct('l'!o\ l irtc.llt' atltl ckM n tll tomh \, ct-mJIdt~

tlw ~h'\'\'(' ~oh..lt M;ut.. tlw untN of tht' plul ttlkl
'
""'"'
'
f.gut6 I
hon'
cw!nllQ!e
~L-/-1---l '
""'
)eo'~
i
:5
'
1-.J-
'
"
'"'
\~
i
~
'
..
LEG-OF-MUTTON SlEEVES
'
COWL SLEEVES
llfl,gn Moly&js
o.o.g..-
l"hr C<*t \.l""'r <lf f' h tht- u ltf'l of thl' """~

& ... rt'\1 dct'f;h. c-umf'k: s 'nchr\ 1\ b
de'\~ ltt.>en tht d.lnlnt t..L \Won't to .am
\k.n :1'1.,tl Dr cml~~~"r' 1ittp!"*'ms.
llntc I a~ ~bit
-. "':; tl'll.
.od
OF ~:. ~ tultDc" tOW41'!'4 thr cecltwl Vna&n ~ b 4ttckoptd ~ &bbhnt Of rnrbft
: ':11' ~b J"""ftl. Ttw I : bkb 'r:Jm t!'M'
~
.._, J
"1"Qbobr ~chn 1 taJ.
c.ar t an'
Parem Plo1 ond Monopula"<>n
FoJ
~,...
ap on the' rr4iQ!int
0171o..,.. ~mac
**'"'-..
..-c
~ !:l:e !bt piJitt
~ \1
<:.on.nt \ an4
u ..... l. ! U'l(hrlo lt<3m
'
\brt. 0 ~ft uw bk:C'J'l ~nd ctbaw
Du ~\h I nn from l. &.-.d P to I

( Ul fr)lft'l dW p.ipct llnQrd t;.b.adcod &h"ll AI C'9
'
'
\btlo. \I !mc:hlrOIIIUJ) ~c.paw

OIDia !tl~runlon It the' atmhok .H triiCd4lll'd.
\toll'., I \ ncbn 01 moft dcMn rrc= tbr ~
\l.r'.. .,. l:ld:les dDitr1 ~
tho
___.C.
"--". 1',
--
::.
" c=
-~
. ,.__
...'
'u"' from a,,,_,._,. r!\~ r
.at c-.ap o,.;: ~.~n

cktw'J,m ni.iltom cltJcM k1otl t) ~
FQJ02
Mo~~o.c- p..~ttc-fn on hlld, 'l'tC".ld
I n~ \n.tiom uruU rt,mt \ ''
:\ n~thl'\ lnm l()!d . \J'Ift'.ld tn<Oof~
!Of :~ l.k~ c~1 100 Wt\m:
Tr.-' thl' J'-ltlttn uut hnt ..n..t

frQf\1 \ltot\'" untkr;lUU \lit\\" h 'l
par~-r
,uHkrn("Jth
SqUJI\' .11 lin\ jr~')lll II" IP id IO
poilll \
~JeL
loliJIl.ll ll'ln.(
Cl.r."W'\hlnt10 Cf'ndf
\h'Ji\Uh U!'l
~ \~ :1< fUidtohnt ll'aUTltTt tJf lhrJUf ort

pa.."trrn e-n lhr pa:;... nwt~h~ Urtn
dr.a'~
:'T"U"Jin...
,....a: trtr...h l.ht (!lck: ....
!l;.1ft'.ld A .nd I wc.om 2 n:bn or
IZIQJ('
1pad:~.~~~
and
''""
\4c'aUP J 1 '2 hn up twm up ..oc~ t.wnd
t tl'kl'l\"\ lh>l'll thl.
~u>'tt llnr .It th, hkJ
__ j
""')o.t
hm h, \
( ut 1111tn ttk (UJ'I.I url!-"11.1
\UI\\
.ul..J tnm lr'ftl \k' ' ' \l 1\f'

i\hohk~ ;llt'olt l''lol" ll'w' tiP"
,:r,unli ''"
'
" - ...'
=-
~.
,
I
..
'
-<
,.
cno~~~e. 14
326
Sl.EVES
0. "' I
WEDDING SLEEVES
327
SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS
flk" tr;,diUnt'Ul kwU:, 1'-IIIOI'K'd IHoddtn~~; 'k""\C' I\

t~o,J"t'\J ""' 11~: t\1\ll ,.J~\r, "'lh lht' ,lbctl'l d~fl 11.111\
IC."rr"'t w rht httnllrw ~)lht-r ';ulJ.Iklrl\ ""' o~hu JMO\

..,Nt. '<I' lln.IJ,on~ 1 t 4 I~nJ \
oo.lgn Ano""''
l'hc ~.-CII ~~n 1 tu,,.,-_,.nttd he-m l'lilh lc'f"\

.an.J hunon' .aktn,: n.IJ."f' ,., ttk' C1fl'r n1ns:
I
"""""' 1'101 ond _ , . , . _
TraTthtb.t'k
~r
On" .a ~sh lint: """" tht d-art rvnt lil "'""

2 lrkl'lft 1ft from lhr unoJrnco.un lo~hf-i \
Ubd 1 ..1 comrr of dl( fn.-.nt uncknr'm
Oo~
...
nra. ~Irk' 1 uw.h Cl\n fn>m the- v<unlult

.and 1 1 ~ lndwt dtM-n uum thf hnn l.JtJd c
OJ~
CUt
.a '" kbnr tmm C co \ 01nd I

trom 1M (\'p(J
F9,n2
Cut w<tteon ;r.nd ~ ~ tQ!:t~
'9>' 7
C..:ut ,l;nh lifk' to noc throtu:h. the' \!Jn p!tnl

( Jo\ot lhil" dbiV. ..Urt. l.~pt
l1ok\' the- p.111rrn and nurl..~tr.lmh~r
\ l lrl. piJII.'\'mcnt f,,, loi.'P\. \fl.~.~ a, ~t\Uf\1 111,)rt
lcgc.~n btnctdk-dlto l n.,hn ~nIP \hllfttn
Ia tcnxth 1
fQ.Ie 3
ftrJlll
flgu<o 3 FOC*IQ
lt.l\f tht' \ l<'l"\"\' ~lion for thl' f.t\ing tl ndk.atl"d

t)) tlw hn>l.1.1l ltm: In Hl(\IIC 2).
Wp.ar;11e f<tdng .at the (L1tt J>Oint f01' ~.;un
.-Uu\\,lll(f.
;\dd ,,... "" .1nd ~ralnllne.
FIQUf$ 1
1'101 .lncl luiH.I,

, Q!JI. 3
,lfl.l'tJ I
'""
.l ~ 41( ~ ltno.. 0.: ~ ...-ro::Jol
\n'IJ.t't" olnd tJ.-t"
BASIC BISHOP SLEEVES
SLEEVES WITH LOWERED

ARMHOLE
Doslgn Af\olysls
llw bhhC'IJI ' ' .1 hUIC)W)' \:11.'('\t tht 11~1'\jt\ Jl.l.a;fUU)
lhr .)Hn f111n1 II \ltloiMith C.l!l I C:llltlh I\ .adck" ft>t

bk:I\1\IUJI:
llw \It'("\ It' dr .. ll I\ h;n'i.' d nnth1. \hilt~ .. \tt
( I"U!JliC.I 21 fur Ill(' \IIIII \kt\"' 'R\Ir\ldM.-. lht 'oh"l
\Pf1.'01M.i .-nd f"',""'-''111\ltr 11lt:1hnd\ .., .. Uh,trtt'd
lu mc...,llf) th1: Olltnlhctk '"' ~\ UllJ'. ' "
tr\"('f
OoSIQO AnO.....J
l~m \ulh i.kt'f'"\1' Annhu~ tmt.:lnalh ullnl
lloolnun ..k~< 1to'l~Uif ,~, . .llkl 1111-.Jkt:> mud liM .a
11,-.n, nw undtr.ltm w.-rn I tit~ ~mull l~t Itt
t f(".l~ 1n lll'nrth .,, ~nt~~t~r~l t'f11.&1 to thr lc* rc~
..,.,.fkt
rmhtok'
CJ!ht-f"'t\11..
the rm
tJilll4"111 lw
,,or.tJ
"'"M'
'"'"tiC
Bishop Sleeve Droit

f91el
"
I'
1'504 ond MonopuiOIIOn
~~~mcllk<J
."'\...
liflll' "' thl \In'\('

( uttrum thr f'oll""' rnm
2 ll'kh~ ht.W
~u.J.rd .ur.n
111'1
I r<k\' 11'14:' \hilt "'""" nd II rn-"rl.ul~'

'urntlt'r tht' tlo)r~~th
I.M)tt lht' JIJinlln<' A Jill.! I
\t.111l. liM' 'lll.tl1tf'I4:'\IKM11 \
kM ullf ~ .. lc)JMntm. \tt p.t~ tM
........
A
FIQUIA ') SWIGYO Moc;McctiOn
l'l..u 0 11 tht jlrto111t'f, llflhiJt c..nh ~'C;:IIOO t 10 ..

irl(ht\ 'K'\UI\.'
h.lc.( IIW \ l\'1." \ t", b ll.'ndln,tt ,1 lln1. from w rn('r

lht: UJIIn t'IIIOh I C\1~.'1 ,md Slt'\"\''e up.
( u l 10, mJt tluoul(h. ltM. CJJJIInc.
\fC".t'U' doc""'n .! ut """" tl'k~ nn tho ''"''"

;ul!J b<~o.hn \l;u L
llu .1 cunni hnot lt..m mJI~\ IH nuCd\0:"\
Pr ollloiChrl WI\~ (Uk
~110.
'"'"''-' l'lttho '11.11n nn lht UJ-lf"' ~ttn.-111 dl~

~II.W ,..,a ..
on thehcorn lht:
tht .1nn drJJ-ill: '\li,ehth utk.kt the- .aunt,.lld
,,,..,.., 'Hf\ rwe Jt'llnllltll"'''' wtrt<ttnl tl.ln:
1u ~- 1tw urn tn """'"" htth .,,,_. llllllf f\'
~tnrt korltthtnn,( ,.,. tht ur.d.-urm " ttk- ~... ,. tt
C'll"nJ't""'" ,., tht 11'1 I'll ,lffflhlk
ol
<ut lmtn the IMI"''
""
-"'
'
I
fli'Otll
L........
flOu<OS 20. b
\ IA\h t'Jl h flAIWI t XI II\ ~k\'W c..lp

.., ..~_. thC' \ ~!ill(' flllht' \I\'\'\ I' ~11\ lht ~~"'''""'
.unl \!)IC',UI I lm ht"'' .111;1 1 I :_ lfh lh ,I\ h1~11
In I i~uu 1.l
1\lt.U\III~ ~hltl I'.& ill1.h 1"-JI.alh.l.tltln lhm

\tit 'll.!in-thnl\\1\to:. I '"'"~"""'" t h'''lw
tl 1~1111' .'11
\ol'\' l"''""' -4~
h IHnllill ,h.,'
......
JJ0
SUMS
C'f\Orllt"t I 4
331
EXAGGERATED BISHOP
SLEEVE
~3
ft(>tum lh(' .\-II lim, h tht ~ul~k'l\n(.
1'1.-u. jl\1\lltlfn ,U \ ollld )Jf\"(14 th(' p;:lll('fn \UIId

I) h '" U11<' " ith lin' k:.t m;Jrl..,
h.K\'Iht \k't'\f' hom \ 10 U.
'
F.guresla.b
T.-..c<" thfo ba\k ~ \kc'\,. W't' ~
'
thlt~h .
.1+\ dt\uf\1 tM folkwi l.llu~r.a

IIC)n UU.~ ttk p.aU~tn wtUnt
\j'lftJd
l>c<~~ ;~~ C'UJ\fd
Mmllnt' 1 lnth
tlt
Of~tn.;al k:n,1h
lfllf
l'l&tlu~h11t), I~IJitfinJt 1(1 unckt\lt;m1\
fP.lnfl~ I .1nd
]..._...
"
Jnd PI'"'"' tbe p.&llt"fn \HUll

thto Joe m.u~ 11Kt' \ to>'
lht'\~C'UP
mOtl" bt~
ru..hpn .. , \
~tth
Cut frm1 p.l+(l'("t ll~uu: IU

Cu' Ill' htwn hc"m tu. nnt
' I
M1.
2. ltnh('\ ivn)t. I lib lm;:h
\\idf, and utn\ t\lt \\Uh notdltt.
Or3~ ;a ~Ill
l)r,m ,1 ~~~~ line u:IUCfCd bt'f\\~'t'fl the gmlnline

.tnd UIUI('f\t',un. Cro~~ l.t.JI.
'
l)r;~~w,. l(t.alnlhl(, uat and m.arl. Itt~..'

ncw~,.h . [Ottllkl(' th(' ll..lll4:1n fOf ''"''
lit ( I i)(un l hl
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8k1H.I lh~ h..-mlhk' for bloo'IOJt.
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W't"ttt)n "' tuU trtJ:hl ~mht.
\ ._, lt~f(' .. \.t.~+rl. QUoal1('f )C'(Uo 1ft~ \.
l bIn Jult
lilt f'\..IAA<Iah.'d hi\hop \I('<"'~ 1\ h,1"'"' ~,n thf'

bi\lt0)1 l~llt'1n, "lth ftlt;)lt 1 tullnl.''\\ .1+1 thf' ~ ml o11nd
IOII),'('C kltJ:Ih f(lol J:f('Jitl biOU\IUI( 101 <11fl ck\t1'1,.
rtlC'nt, ~ JYII:'l' \Wi
Ponem Aol ones Monic>ulohon
~2
l'f.an:;)
Design A.nolya.ls
,,
ttl< "".._.._..._1 ~~ t.."f 11\o; !..~... .J<'\"\"C' '
""ht"rt'
1(1 r..... .a""''(~
Kimono, Raglan,
Drop Shoulder,
and Exaggerated
Armholes
PtTOOOUCnOH fO SUlVWOOfCf
CX>MMAIIONS
"'
~~;)
~
~--
woe .....,10
~""' :ft [)oh
9'lort ....,.loimono
woe COlMAN
ONl.,.Cf COh'WlAnoHS
~-"'~Seam
~t'N)f'IO y., TIOUt O.'~!"'am s.otn
WIIWJHO ro.s<> FOUNOAIK)N
:j
~
\\
332
33b
~1
.330
330
.339
340
KIMONO OPUS
342
:143
""
IVoGU.N !U!VE
.344
fMGt.AN OESKPN ANOVAR\AOOUS

AtlllnOtt Prii'ICe\5
Voir. <Mh fl0r9 $aMve
302
302
3>3
Ono""'""-
~Drop Shouldor
~SHOUtOEA
Otoo SOOuiOcw Owoft
Ofop Sl~ VCWIO!IOnS

~ !Qtdon~n fOUndo!iOn
(XAGGfqAfEO AR't<1HOllS
Owoc>Cvt $quo'I) /Vfflt'lt:'IIO
,..
C>N<
~MOHO WITH GUS$ft$
Shi(VAUJAJION fE$1
3>1
354
...355
355
357
3>7
..358
358
360
INTRODUCTI ON TO SLEEVEBODICE C OMBINATIONS

lllt' '~'f'\t ~rld ~or fM .my"""'"'"' !h~ouw. \lctY
..d.4:t, Of tn,u I \.ln 1)1, 1.nmh,jrH.V In,., r.~ t)' u( "'''

C.ltt'"'"'"t'\1 .l\ IOII<M'\
t..Jmc)nO dnlxn' lllt \k.,'\"t h .llt.in-ont "'ilh lhttop~rnltr'lt
l)ftopo<ut nnltOk'. 1~ nnllOI(o 'W"(1Iclf'l

fnf'IU tiflf'nbil\ot'\ Hth thf' t."""~-
<-' tht Jt,ll
bglan d-M.IJ:_n\. lht' \koc\t: tCJmblr~ "'1th p.n of

.lR .lrmh(ok> .lnd \hnukl ;Ut'.l C1f tht ...,rtnrnt
nrot, \h<MIIdcor ck"I.IJtm t.ln f14 Uw \k-t\'1' cap tom.

btn.n "'*'h llw a;arnk"'IU ltM- ~~~'tlll t.ln tiC' !lin~
opnt wtth <It ""uhnut II~"""''"' ,1ft,.... ur t~ lo-""tr
"""~un bot ;ut.~ehn.l tn II~ ...nntnt
r .oach cllf lht- ff.~tlnd.llt.lfl f"'tlnn\ <.an tlil' uW\i to
dt-\~klp otht-1 dt\i1tn '.art.utom b\ ~u~~11n.:
lhtir ,.~.,ll <h.Jr.a.u~rnun or tn <hoin,t:tn( the- \C\k.
liM I'J'O"ilkl-!1
--
lJS
flgur(t 3
\t:u~ I N lmllull "'~"' IIW \huulllt I Ill

l'l.au ;1 rulu 41 ltlld'l.h~o~tkltt, 11" " lllnatht """'"
<Ju kl th itw tlw kllj!.lh '"' tht' , ,,,._.,,
'w.tu.Att ;t Ut'k loth h.Aif n f Ihot tn tuttl h nd

IIW,i\111\'IIW.' III
lltv. illitk IU I I"' tttiiW.ok
lluw lht ltrllltt \4'4111 111 tlw. tk..,ih 'lll , , _, ,..._.
c Ul
ltulll lht I"'IJ!t'f ...... (' .. "'"lol\\1 , ..,""

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't 7
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lr;~u lht>
b.IQI. I'I.JIr. p.urtn u .. nutrrltlJC tht'

\hOUJdtt da11 tu nld.,ttnhuk-
fffii.Jfft 2 t:ronf Pot101-n PU;!potOi t()n

lrolo\l'IIJitl , UI Iht l"-'\1\ fiCJtU Jl..lll('fll .
I h.t" d,uh IIIW\ hom midarfllhuk- ;md o.l.tn

Jlil'lnt to hu't J)l}tllt,
\l.a\h lo, um lhftiYJ;h, HH.' bu\t JM>I nt. ~~ a\ttk
until t h(' lt,ttl. dr.tll h (OfiiJII(:t t.'.
FIQUIO 4
tht: IIUnt JW HIIi Uti IC rttult ht lt oiU'\1 ll'l"

.tnd 111.aw ru ~hplu 111 tlw \ hu uldtt tip tu tlh
~hnul,ltt
lA('<
"'"' .. l'*rt ,.., thr lnlfll l-..~1t"tft. ~'C' p;!ltffl\
JI.all~rr'
8k H.llhctroo t \ho.IUi~ tJ')ctniJ.~r

( llht ll.to.,-d 1~\ l"'lfm
( 'lt h~' lh\ w.1hl tl.ut untll l ht \Ill\ h.tht lt'l..,l.ltt"'
lht \lih
'~'' '
m.ul. Ul llh' b.I\ I..

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f~l'lll'f
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h.tU' ltw lfi-t11 p.1'1n kl f'nt J~ tmm tnido

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it.t.) ');---~~~- >
K1mono Draft
~I
\llr~
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ld
( u l "n"u'-1 tin lt>nt p.r:, n .and~ ...

t \11'11'*..(' thl fl<lllcn'l t\'01 .. h"ill !
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BASIC DOLMAN
\ h t, lh't\f'-1 ' .11 lhWII .Itt.! l\lo"' ho ...tlofot ll j"
"' '''' ~uuohtl\ ~ool
lo ~
utllt''''' 1'-llh!ll ''"'
.t
...
Ooj,jon Anaty.JIJ
llw 'hn.ul h.,, h "'' uul '"'-.mn "'nh , uw r
oll tol iohh Ill.,_,,, tho lllllh ttoniol l!l~ ,,,, " 1111[11 ~m
1111 h h '"''"'t"'-'\1 l! tm tho t\11 t.llllll i.lti(l
tUih ,, i.lolltn"n ''"' .t f,.._,,n.l ,ttt!1hol4o "''",. w.t m
' '" ,, ~'\' ~ l'l't'
-----
l'oHcm 1'101 (ln(1 Ma.>IJ)Uiullon

I \Ill"
l "' d
h.~"" l""tut.._, ,._04
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tlht\luhr.A 1n '""'''tl'J' t! lh ' dn~n ' "'' lh.tt tho
'I"'
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h 1,t, h:n '.uut''''
lh I" 11
ht '''' t.
"*'''' IIVt 111\ol. "'"II\
Kimono Without Ovororm Seam

l'tt'l"'"'' Ilk,' l'lllt't ll h)' pl.t\ hi)C I ht frnll I llld t~l' k. \)IO>UloJt I I U)n 11-.:othot-t ,md U~f"
IJn.f;cn J lh(> ' 1\'t\1(' h lVI hunl.ll h\mllrw thll'Uf' It

IJr.i(11 I I.IIM.'f\'\1 httnlhl(' .llld .t hkiU'I'Ift Ut~ lint Hl41ntc'hnjt tht (brn<r-f\ nf the ~t '!Jit\ tho:- unlrt
anlllii.IW" line- ht It~ \h~)Uitl( 1 lip t -w lht "ml fJWJ"'-11\'tno-m '""'hoon t\11 1" ~t1rt(ft ..m11 '"'"'tV -~'lUI\'
IUCIH ,jlltllh,IW lht HUH: Hf lht U1..1<r,mn \dd lullr'IC\\ Ill thlf Undo.r....-,un, ~ ScJ I (U 2 tf'll.~ I tl'\ot
l~n~tth frlf h""''-'"J:
it hlttklinlt luw ,.. ,....,, tho hortnhtW h.uwwn t 1:1Un lnr. fii:Utll' Zt
!),,,"'
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r;ar.dlct wtlh tMtff ,,...,,
\~on~UYI~u:toU111WMn!llrt'ft.(Uft If
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:
Kmono Wllh Sho<Jiderbne Seam
~0\UNm~ h~lwf floot,1n~ I tnc:h ftor.

fm('f'l ~
IIJ".
Ttk''
Nrnd '>hnuJdm tfl mn1t-11o11:! II:! llllhn hdcrw

~n.-oedt
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[)f
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1- ~C\. T
\;1(11'~
KIMONO TORSO
FOUNDATION
""" A.uno.t"-' wN
lo,tmd.ll~t
(I (II
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~""'~'/
'"'f""llltf 11111 I',.,,., m
~"' !"'f"( l
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<ok h,,....,, tt.urld;iiiiiU' I he- tnmc JnlJ l~ot~.l. t'Jtt,rn.._
:~n. duJt\'\1 r.)l.:t'tll";r o~rkJ '<'~"'''''-"" oll1'1>nlJklklft ttf
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1t0110 ffQnl
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l'l.!ot_\' IIJ..IJ M:"I \llkltl lhltl!.!ll +llld \(

( Ul
llh.'t'UIIh!~ tJt U~t< 11,1114'111
Rtmt,\\' 1ht UlkkiiW.ilh "It'\

IJtJt+l -);kl. kiiiiUUtiiUI\U
~:~;~ IIHC tuwu llt't lo..lill\' Jnd umn IIJI<I. hum tht
Poltem Plot and Monrputotlon
on
Tr.~ ~t. t<lf)(J t,!W'Id.lt""' "'"1" tht .,,uholk
~1\.I!Jt~:"m \tbl.kl.bntt
flR" ~ p.~J\Jt~Ul( thn"'$h II~ \hl.11.1kkr '"' lr.JV.r
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l"'.k'c' t!W troru h'"" '"" lr\d "tlh thor 1\k L It flU
.uw 0.1Ukk1 nn-1. h.JU...:hns: \ ~tdtbm J'hc'
ltont .and ~l..cmtcr 11nc \hould N l"''.alln
lr.tn' tRVJt JWU('fn tt,mm.c .at ..tlo!JU,.I<-r
.and
ffldll~ ~ '"'k "''' ~ ~ ltnt)
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dllfC'mlth IIU111 d'l\ cu.mflk t ('ntl"f d<ICtturl,.at th~

~houktt'r m:d. ~K'Uiikt trj"\ 16 ( J "nd .._,Jc 'l('"tn\
Foure2
Dro.lw ;~lint' lr(lfn litO t o~nd lOilltl1\tt lin Un, to

lt-\gtb. L..tbd 1>
I) w I
h.lll or lht C'rlln rnc'tUf('fllC'rtl "'-lll.lr\'
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11\''h
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dJI4t ltl?(\lht:r
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CAFTAN
Ooslon Anolvalt Dos6gn 3
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"'1dMk't"\c.'d
h ltM'. U\\.1~11)' 1~\tt-~~:d b\' .a hrh 111
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f,l\hton ,;aun..-nc l'\t thh IQUrHJ.ulon ,., ut.,tt 4d
"'''"'""'In ,..,
ff'r~ nt ~"'IJ{.n\
Conan o.on
,.,.em
fogu.e'
Plol ond MonlpuiOiion
19n'
TracY thf" iront
ll.tf'II'III'O ~1,., .1nt1 " '""' ,.

MtXIJ' nrdJIM~ \hnwn. '"" tht lmtn ~tl<rn h.l'
bft mo'lo.!tr.rd. 11 1, ropN '"' tht hk I. ...-u<m
Doc""'
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1r~ hvm l..lfnl'ftfl \\kl 2 to' ~ndta tt
tht
he-mline- "'Jl 0..- .a 1-lnth lt~ pouo~lkl '-th
~tnttl front
OO """~ twmll.l'l('
(,...thntJ'"'"'""'" Wnr I \1~ lJmono ~~" "'
dfo\Ar~ Ill .a"' li.w- 1n \huukkrtlp ;~~OO html rw
\t~r L cntr) t nd o11llow I h~h lor Mdblod. hl;:m
Tr.a lxk;L LimclnO p.aU~rn L.n """u on top
()r;t\1\ \'rtn Lhllr
nw tthln.l( \hOokkt\ tnttf\ p.ar,U.rh
(lor""
~" .;~ nd \kior ~;~~m lhc tlo-nUJ( " 'oUftd..,..

W'\'tt.ll met he~ butturh . \Npl.lonft'. 01 tin
,,...
.
1
_::;.-.-f-.-::-::-:
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Deoign 2
ftgul'e 2
Squan ~line- . P'lac" Ihe. l.illlflnol) j1.1lltm m tht >tqUM" ,.,.d \hilt to tk~lu:d fullm.' ') (c)r g~t h Ct> ll'X;lnlJ)It'! S tO
10 lnc hM), \dd 11> \ldt wam S m~ ht" or mrt<. I )f,IW dt'\lrt-cl \ lttH' INIRth fro m ~lwukl<'l Up Jlld ad d 21ncht'$
f01 ~pu ff." Or;m C\Hh-d htmlim fnr \lt'l.\1.'. Or.l~' \l~\'l' bn1l, If ~~-ultcd . Irate for b.&d: p:llt{rn.
1h e ~ll"t'\<' Nltr)' <-;n tx nau.'tl, 01 ('(Hl
ttolk,llly "la~t lc ~.a dd w.1m for fold-oven
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Or IJ)' tl \ l('l'\'l' IMnd, Oh 111\1\ lfill\-d,
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z hltht"\,
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RIO"' "*YV~ I 1/"1
, .,_.,. ...-
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KIMONO WITH GUSSETS

\ t~ubr-s:h.lf'<'\1 '-t\l'C\" c-.tllt\J I (U\\C'I ftrJJ""
tullntot.'> un..ltt ht.tnn ~ll An-.:ul.u a..un.M lll'>f.:\1\
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tl."'lt ot dw- "-m
1\oo" ,.,~ l1f (\mfl't\ Mt' ilh,hlt.th"\1
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'
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fbtdr:ut MU"'"''"''*'-'"("'o I :. tkh \ho~f J'lt.h
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c..,.,. Mit:
~--c dMI lnt.ak I -.1 tl'k"'h .110\1 Nn-.J

t.lrC'.Ix Tnm I .f!nt.:htr~'lrftlhl..itorl~to ftro \IJrl.
nokhc-\ "' ~l\.
Guss<ll Slol (conr"'* v. ., Fq.J<e

~ 2 frent O"d 8c:Jck Soace
3)
Dr.1vo. ' J I Zlr)l.h line- ltpm \ In datt'rtlOil tll tht

.um hok C'\u'\~. l'IO\\m.:ul... t.abrt B
hOk't "nJ lr.an\kt ,.h-~.'IUickr d.Jrt .1rl\J l .:! anch
ot
lht ''"'"' ""' ' t'\~' tO ntkl...anntkllrt.lnd b~nd

'dot w.anu I.Jbel \..,
\t.ulr. .! I 2 indh."\ do\' n
New Cenler Line (moy VOIY hom .......,..,. ""')

M..u l. '""'W;t
It~ ( U.
t'll
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th< I[UKkltnc: bttvo\Yn 'houlo.k1
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Sowong INtrucllon$
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1 I I..,. h tat.k . . . ntd I I ~an..h
h.kt. ,,tt,h
ffl.,'!a't p..oAI B. Thill lb \ ..-.aftl ~.bitt to lQI{\'

FrJirJ ~ oo .. t Dnt and '~ o~t cn.J '~
:bt ' toct- tb: In ~... ., dW patrcm rlf"'-
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tl'f ct parrt L*f ' .tnd D
S'k".r- ~ t."tlal a ..., folj of pit'l'1' "'1"11 to ~
..-.lUII\"'Il(''U. \.tJ I .!~ 'k.&m afbolm.."'
\'\It ....., lmf,.'i;!
,...,_1'
.: In .....
~"lil-wt.: "-l'l'""~
rn..lC'I'I thf J'otrrt
trw ll"wt
~..-....
~'--~-~
az 01: x ~ -.t ..~
~tid ~
.,
~---.--ucacc ~~.. ~
,... Ot..,..., 'X tbt .....
'"<>n'
D
'
....
~ ~ .-zod ~ ~--cat
'"" .all~~ "._,_
~ 0 ~ ......... ,\,'))@ott llf'f

tlrJn Ql.r' .tt\)\1( \"'\jWI h.l fH. Ol('.lturei1)C'ft1.
c
I
~ )e ltLor':2: ~ biiQ. ace ~

adrf.
.,....~~-~ ~-...
-
-- ~
~Wdr
~'hoi .at . . . . ~ Oda dQJIIIQ., -~

f 1:br: ,;-a~ ;wt' . .:.t
llr.an .l ~i~h li.aJ<(>n.aJ hnt' t>Ut '"'m th: romtr.

llun .a biC'tkhn~ '-""\If''\' hn..- \dJ "''"m" omd (\II
lhlCYI ttk I~J'(r
r-~ ..,
at:
a...-
or= ' " " " " " - - - -..
'\JU'9S ~ e c....er..e-: ~lr
\\II
'-'C't"' \C t,hllnr ._
u "'""Pt'
fu41GusMI
Fq...res. 11o. b c
C\8Gus>e< s;
=~
1 '"' u
' prt.ld t..ht '1lhh .111\ll\lt.. .. t..ILh h t..folrt .. , oii1 ~ll

m.1rlr. t .and ,:ro~,lu..ilh c:n.hn~ .at I'
rt\,~o~ umll\' .u R """ ;et.l.tu.all\ !itd'l.k,..., "-' f\
m.ulr. .m.t l\a..l llhh lo~;.'I,U"(" I h. Rc:l"~' i"'ft
\l(llt't '"'"" ,., tl'k ...........t
rn-.., ,_,,.~oo<, .... .-m r,'-w ttw l::.lnnc-t1t ,...,
fl"t'IUI011110, \\.ln'l
'
..
!!I
M od,lylng tho SIOO\IO Cop
RAGLAN SLEEVE
r~tt4
fl.tu 11"' l'i\i( ~"'"'"~ o~~nd t'\h rid

trultllt
I l -4 lnl h \tjurf'" '!Uit1 hno 1.,.1,. llwrnf, .tnd It
fiQIIUS
IY~t JAil
rod f/]IU<II lrorn """' tbfltuma.l.1111h .Jn.
11l1111h-1 ,,..,.,, '" '"'-
d"'
,J.MJtn \\lh .. f '' ,.,,, "'"',

rh .uru rtf tt""
t1~<inJ uth
.,, .,, flf' '"
,.,mt"''
\lo~~
\t,11l lhl tlltw lhtt ""' 114 luth "' t 11111

t~nd n'th.aw th1 l.llldt1 v-m
\1.11~ I 1/l lrl(ht'\ IJOrlltll'l blc~" IAhil .,~ ~

l'"'lrf'n.thrutrtJthwt\ll\l'linot'\hornl.arwl
I . bltt'KIInJ! "'ilh !),til~ nd hunt ntot(hn
I '' X A tuX nf lutl.aunhn~ \hrl.
tot M-)Jo!f'Fll 'r tJo;JoC..
lf.lll'" ruttffl'O\ lfAfll.frUllll' 1.l.. 111..tl I
l,..t't rt..-_.r'"h I
'
r w "' "' x t.r """'' "'"h>h , ..,..
,,
Rtduu lhnl.olt hndt) 1. 411Kh lhtc4t-n llntt\l;t;r\. 114 inch 1.1(1

drw lifk w n:fQ
.11 h111U "'m' It uurn L11rrr \J.arJ. t-w <unuA
,.,..t~hn
'""'"''.and
l.atrl A. a rtt.' 1 f U. lbottl
nul< I'-:'\...~
fl\~
l;
I
""'' """'
'*'"'o - ~ ;:;:>
u.. ~n
'
'
"'-
ur
11,. l<~~tiAA, n Ill t....,.rcl un Aflt flo! II! Ul of fuwul.1

II~ '"'" r<v.l"-ll\ ,.,, lltu\U.rld, Wflh nil "''lfMIII
dl-ll.uh
......
,..,.
v .. ..
on
't(
c
II
b bo-Y. , fif7pl. ( .,.

Onr-lwlf (,f A Ill II I~'' I 2 In; h M.ut.
llfw ,1 \lld!1.h l lint lr"m t\ol, i m.uL ''' )1,
''"'' n n \ lm II\ tlluuttt"'l
F9ft'$ Sa D ~ RI::Qcr \It
rtdoln
\ JW nh I N
Pia.;('
lq..lf~ 11)
rll'llJffl\3<: dltOOI ~JQI{lnYok Q
A to>..
( lu :\
, .,.)I .tfJ
,.10
I 1/.C
...y .
,..,~,.
A In X \Ililt. .ntd f l'l)l'-. .1 lmiJU\ IiUtl' C ut

' ''"1.111 ynkt\ hum llbllllt .u~ l ...
ff-lg u rt\
l h ol lld i-t J l ~ lwt'l "l"C.IIUII \ Olt(' 00111J)It:h '-
w""
..
'"'
*"'"" ,.
~,
Kid piwt1t \bolddtt tlf" I
II("\ lfl. .n nut .a ~ w.:.l'l !;l'lill
\ f.ltt.' t, "' tn~h tmm nll:'f o.a~n.linl"

drJ'"' .a h11t tn.rn) to l f':r ~
,._,J
l'lroU\ ('UI"''\" '-'.a..'b
'
' 1/.C
~!\:
.and)) :.-hinttu~ Tra:r....S~T

\WI.l on ttlc INiokL.'"Il ,-r.lh""fd ~t'ffl 'lbouf..
loki
fi':JIA'I' ,)d
hcJflt yt.H!
,,li.o ...
.......
.._... IJNn I Mlo:! I
I~ l
t ..
, :l/0
I
&AU
fROfiJ
"" .
'
.z ,.,.."
'
~~
fiQ'JI'M 1 0 b . c
~oAQdnQtJI'
~ "0Joroillh t ht ~'""' nn r /l uw ' '' ''' hconll .aud

1 r. tml rw.l r'l''' /tm t~o,t J'hn4.a;l moh-.JI
f1.tet'fltl tht P'l"'' o~nd 'I""'~.! un h~' IHr 1111 \4
cun 4fld rctr.~o~.~ tt.K I. ,)!Id '''"'"
,tl,...
t"
I "'\ ~IIKhll ) tmn'tl llnr
how.
lwm I .,111d I 10
~:1
fiJ~nd, ll llrtt~UI)'
1 Ji.r1k R11cl.m "''''' f ~~~~~~~ I''"'

\1111l
mkJ..'"'"'Idu' 1/ .. Inth'"'' hom I& .and I>
o~nd .)I !(lui
J lm.h("'o dn,.,n lh(" ou. r4rm <,(.1m
1 ~.1~ Otl"t" fltK'. IOIKhilll! .md bltrKitn'! Milh

.111 JMOI!ll\ ".II~ I'W.Jtdtn .lll \110ttlcklllf"" tf i.l,. 7oJJ
R.tclnt C .,WNII\'tll~~o...-1
I~~~,.. l.d~
Wd Ill lnc.h ,,,u ..Jk-1 llrM. Mllh C'Jo\tr.lltnl if',)fn\

I*' r'ldlnt u, \lloukttt up
\1..11rl I"""' "I' fwm c. th.lll tqwh tPw.M to II
',.
J,,__.
"'""nul 1/lnKh J """, lhl\ pv4nl, dr.11w lint' to

dhu" lo\.:1 .md .tt:fO\\ Wtl\4 k'\otl Ut~Uit' 7bt.
,.,...,
f~Jo
.........,.
..
..
I
f
One-Piece ~oglon
61\Cf
~>.1r------<
fP.OtH
'""'"
nov,u9
Wllh wrhl I\\!' I\ ll ~tlhtl '1'11 .1\l blutn lll'kh
ltif\t.' I Will 1111d I,IC I. \It ~,-~.., .,n,l.llll rn.lr\.ln.jl

C t nhr .utd ltllllt. if flnhll ' lm h('\ drl"l'n lllffl the
' ' " " d ilr 1 ~1" .Inti th.lt.\ ol ~ UI\ i'ol ll nr I' U11,
\ h114lkl\'f I ill\
lllnd
<-'----],
!--..J
f
(,
. '"
' '
1ht h
111lllh'
.....
,.,.,..
RAGLAN DESIGN AND VARIATIONS
11M" ~l.ln IS \'f'f\ '"""II.IC' f(lollll\1.111611 lOt (I('Jih\j; Olht'l rd,Hl'\1 tk:)ljtll' \1) ltllnC"\ (,Ul I~ dl.l" ll ln 010\' di
m lfoOn fro)m l'()lftl \ell tiW' drfl ~' Uftn.lr.uN in IIH' fol!."'lr\jC rttlhOI<' 111i11t't"~ f:'l\ llll"lf.lt<'d o n thh (Nigel;
,'(lolC' I'~ fS' l\U: J.lld ~~<'~' U111ukk1' It('(' 1~ t~41
j.Kl.tl' ~rul ,ht~\C'' u'lll.ft tht' JriOC1Jl'l<' or X.
'"'"'iJ:"
I
to I
Armhole PrinCeSS
-2
I'Ol1omPiolond~
"'*''nf' ot thf
~ tbt r.acJ~n pannn (11ft ttK'

trok''d tlcodn 1"11lh \-rt-nh 1ouctu~
0Q101 thtsa,iduw-rnwn \'f'llllnhl\ft' t~hutt to

thtdut 11r Tht \koc'\'f c.1n ~ "' ~' """"'
ll
M!r;NN. Tr~ thf ~ ~ fif'\t ltwft U<k't the
.......
Of,,
SlOt h'Mt .and NoeL tood.cf'.
F!QUr$13 d
\..'1~lrilt('l.l (MUCJII\ ,II(' 11\mu.ntd Wd ;,lfl:\f fl.t1"
....... ,
f~M34
\4.1~1.lhd P,liiUM\ liiC IUU\(r.llt'(l, ;\dll
'~t fullflt'\\ fo' 1t4lll<'n tor the dt\l!{.n
f\1 chtt~J.
.......
f.gUI\ll J
YOXEOACO:
I:----,'
'"
.'..
.
'.
.,.
DRO P SHOULDER
1 h~ dtuf' ,houl\ltr l).!lltm h k''"'l'"l hy n... hn "''"""' A tho! "'PPtf *'"~ ap to dw budK~ Tbr
tlfttt"''l ''~~1\lt 11'\ll't\lh ~)1r\oll tllof \ht,.lltkr hr .moJ Ul\tn p..rt ofttw uppn aur.-.~ un~ kai;U& 1t m.nbr \lt'\tltk"ll \1\llht)llf lh<t ''""''' \k~t lllor\litr\ It''' "'''h 1~ kJwon
1[)n[ 1n 11 lft.\ln~~Ctlnn\ ~eo
dtt'\\t\. ""u-.n, .,~,.h,,, UJJH. M '''""''"" .u...J nc-nmc dr~"""'" lJt-Ucn ,,,.,., mon
"""-lti'C lht eft'"I''"" fk dhiluy rl!t ti'W' lltJP \lt~f\11(1.-r J)ro'U ..rn \Itt .,.~ )\7
*""'
POttem PfOf and Mol'llfPI.IIOhOtl
~ ttwI 2r~,cU" JUfltm

,,...,
Cln
I If' \.1\
Drop Shoulder Drofl
kfu.- ,., thor
Ponom P'tot on<S MoN pulohon
1r.,rd br..:iK'E nth \.-t"'""h f- 1"'1
,VJ'.. 10 b
" ~ 1 nr from thr "'' r.w-4 '~" In 11'""

\tnh thor ltt>f't \h!Jbfl.kr lm!Cfh' .m.J
n,..aw tf thrt ...., nnt m.ah h.
"""- tla.b "'"'" ,,,_ 1 ~ "fW'tt full' .and
dr.nr (W\i I ,... 1<1 \
~llnh
'-t,..nn Uw up nd bkcV'-
\11L liZ tn< h drJwtn hhof'n tht tfflt a ru\brw

n..J tll.tW ,t (Ur"fW \I) klint" )r,
\ft-<~Wit' <~rnthlok t\lnn \ to X .1nd a to :\
Jtft:~d fhJtUit' I
"""lord"''"" rlf lfw plt..rn'lo.
~p.-rtt' tl> flf)ffl k"""tr '~" ~~ "''"<~ (~,at

lhiCJU"(.h IJ .ll11hnt' 19 WJ~I~It tii'C" (.t!)ill~lt' lbl
fQ.n .) $iJIMYeo
trail" tht rnatihl ( "'"'- "" the- dror thr~~o~lckt
~ JIWJcoro!CI\
'1.-tk.t~ c:t-nln
\qwr.- .t flf'lot okff"' tht ~"'up ff'roftl lhk tl'\lft..
,.,.,u,
h.-r llw
,.,._.t"'ft\
Jlgv,.l
fonlb
D
' J.:..._-+--~'
'"
.'"
8AC r
'
...,
I P.Ot-i1
F-ouro~
2. 3
I
'I'
l r,lrt' l l<olll\'ll\. ,l)ll,,ir\)1: ftlll\111 llf lh(' ''"C'"

l r.1U' h.td, 1~1\UH
lf,lfl\.l \tll lllt h>~ IMH ,hn '"
a nnhrlr. 1tu l u~n t hu,u,,

(
,,.
t lh1\
,,, \
t'h \
II
J\L ---Jf
- --t:>-"
cosuol Ofop ShOUk:h:u

ff(p.7
1 w
II(-.JICt'--!Ullll. 112 f ntit 10 thr c.-iiJt .and c r.l 3
bkt1dir,rlln(' 10 lh(' ~)(M.tl,kr tip .
Drop Shoulder
VorlOIIO<'\$
th~ d h l1' \hl-..tl,~r l._.ltl:lfl'-.
~C'Iop llt\lf!ll\ I, 2, nd 1
U\II1J:
e}
e}
0. 9"' 2
0...~
Design Analysis
...
Oni~tn I .....a"'~ ncd.th~ .and

d lt'f' \hauk1u \\t\ IW~~t~l \l<'t'\\',
\cot txurt 1
l)n.tgn !~) hzcod 1\o\"tlJitW .and
<
".
ptti'Kfl\ liM ilrt tlti.I\U.Itf\t t1'\ bm
I ,.,
'"""'
a.m linn In I '~""' 1 .I\ " ttukk

lht puit ~'C' 1\ m fr11m f"'n
of thfo kloMt1' ~(' t\111\hN .and
..,.....,
kwo"'
~.:n l-~
'~"' i) il l
tACtW'd IO.l ~fill"'n\ bu\.ltn \Nprd
ftom lht f('IIUIIIII"'!Iit p.IH~rn
,..,..,
, .....
flguoo &
\ ltf't-1J)IIt \lft''t on gr;~inlint. _)f)tt Old I Inc-h

md blt nd .11 101, ~tnd bottom
Tht dfOp \houltkr
lir~
and/or hcmllnt' Qn bt
~n'tild fo r g.~thC'n Or ~C'.II).
\_
/ '
l OWER
l O.,...Eit
llEM
UCIIOH
.. .... ~
.. ....
.. ... seertON
.. .
. .
: ..
..
.
. ..
.:
! I'
Pot1am Plol ond MonlpukHon

F~gu<e 1
lllu~tr.ll~ .lr'l o(f., houldl;r ,._.urur modllitd fc1t ~
\I~IH I :m<l 2. Cn:.IIC' v th rt dc\Qtll1 b-))4.'\.1 o n lhh
IJ,IItt rn
>
5tEEVE
i
I
''"
EXAGGERATED ARMHOLES
.\rmh.~ .ln llo,l('\.t~f.th'l.l t~ ~llllill,( \k'f'tl~ ~nd wldtl) lul u tile' ,:.llnlt'lll 111<' Jl.~Ut'lll I\ d~ttl:tplod b)~I
t.Khnl.l: '''the' (Jt("t.':. tV>rlt<Jn (UI fhml th(' l oc:dk~ I \.t;:t.:rt.ltfd .mnholt, t.ln bt dM'\klpt'tJ u~lng thf' top (II
.In\ ,...,ntTrl Tlloi'IIUIOKfi(lf)) \IM)Uid tlC' \1\t'\l.t\ ~uMJr ftlr oJmUIU ~k"'ll:rt\
Deep-Cut Square Armhole

De$OQI1 Ano.......-OeslQn I
~~ ~ 'k'l ~ anto .1 \Q.Uft' .a.rml)(* ~ tl'lft
~ .1nd ,,....., to T1"'t AMrl
~At,_ O<ofl
~I 2eo.x.MoCS-~
lt.11.-t tht tNnt "nd bKl. tJo..bRo Jr;~n~N tht
Nd ~kltr dAn to tbt ru..J-Mmhok

\t,ul .\ I !1nch OUI f.rncn (h:>nl .ln.J bokl. thc.Jut
,_
dtor IIJI'L
\&MI. a J ll'khn--n un 1oi<Jt w..am1 (I( thor front
.md N-..1. .umhoH1..
\f.trl C 1ukhr'\ t~~UUI'd th'fn II
Connrct "llh .\ w.utg .. )fhth (W'\~ 1111<'
tflrol.rn Jmn"' lr;.>nt 'nd tl.l<l t-~""' in~ht.ttt"
i
FIQUie3~
II-(
wct1on' to complfu
lhfl' bOcbn: pattcm"

~ I
"~'_::-;...._ _.....,
\~H
.~.
Lltfttt'f IJ.l\k
,n ifM>tf Wx< t.lf fP':' l r . . - c " q
.ll'ld ltkhklt Jll m.utJn~t' I .~btl I) ,u'td l.at ('C)ft'Wf
of hk~t()\ ;trkl c:\1tnd .1 llnor 4 incl\\... wt fu'm
tMh tnd f01 .l JUkle
~IU.lrt a 'hou ;tut<l~llrw wt hum uch \Jd.. Qt
tht grain .11 up kHI
4)('ltltul Jtmhollt 1 \Otl """''~
Cut irom p.afJ(r Tnm
..
.,
I'I;Kto b.ld..llld fu)4'U !l.IUetn\ on thc- ~h.lft. w1th

( on blccp"' )tlUiddlnt oukl A touchln.jl. on 1...ap
JtUkl\ll n \'.
l)r;)w 01 1XMU annhoi\', hlcludln~ nottht\, .lnd
rcrnu,'e p;~thrn . (llru..~..u lint' lndlc,th' untr.1ttd
ll.lllcnt.) ( ro,.;m.ul. point' Lt on tht )I'< R<'-
'111 "
..
th<' j MUI:III.
RNif.n, lhl' iro nt .umhnl!: t'\11\\\ !l.aU tllhl~
l)r;.w (llf\'~'tlll m\ rr~un 1\ hi tlbcmln~ o n l tc'llll
lnO\'t'
~ ~
Noltr>
)li~IUI)'
Notc:hOs
I\
I
c....,_.
and b,1{'1o..
'l lw \J),)' \Ill tht' hont ,,,plh.hwtll th~ \ 1"'"11,
I~ C.1p t.l\\'.lf t hh lllt'ol\ll l\'\ nlllf\' th.lll I :. lfh h.
\ l) \h tht' ti,IJh\l hW ;U U j I\J, mn tlln'IU,J:h . \\"''
,utd U\(IIO!p IH h'lllC"'' \llllt\'('dt'\1 t'\('t" tiJ''
p:~ll~'fl l tnm llhl \ll.lh'l.ll
'
Flgv<O 41\ddonl) U11

I ~f;)\\ ,1 t ur-..~-..1 \l.t\h IIIII' lfl'lfn 1\ h\ 11" rm,l l'"'nt
ul '~11llnr
llt,l\lt tlw ' "" lllht tllh'(' ''' u''"' .,,,,, ""'' th
'la'h 11m
C Ut lht '""\'\'' lh'lll , ....,,,I
".a1Hn~~t
.at
I""""
lhh'\1"'11 , ..,, hlh
t\ '''' ,J.A,h
h~" "' '"''~
... . .
'
t"'''''
'!'.~ ~., ,.
t''J'"
l .. l" !l fl I ,,ho;''" h,u 'i'n ..IIU_j,....,lk"''
:.
....... '""'
"' '"
~Utool ' '
~ut'""
oh\ft t~ lh.l\ollh" " h o l
onl
M ,W,.I I \o' \0
1, .. . J
"" "
rt\4 '-}h \,\ II
" " nol _.,.,"l'lthllll
\\':I I II'JUI\1
Buttons,
Buttonho\es,
and Facings
..
,..,_....""'"'--
1k
1r
1
1'-.J
"'"" ..,.oltt\111.1" .._.... , ,
",. ...,'""*'
....,''"'"'"
...... CII ...I~
~.-...
..Jt.,;
.......
MR. _.,,..,...
IV"'~
...,.,..,,.~
I *I .... . h I'QI
. . .""~" ,, -='-I
... , ,
SE L~VALUATION
tr.,j,(lt.
II
.,., I !!-
... ,., t .tllom

thr .11111
\ '"~1.11\ ''''" ""11in' I'''' I I All
II
\\Ill Ulhlt I ,I h\~11 ,utllhot/, Ul <.l

Lltllh t ., .11,1!1 111 1 11~
\ ofh'JI oh "'ll,l<ft o>ltl\hlll I 4111oot lhC'
I~
"'*''' 1
I'"'' In th. h>ltl o~~ml! lo 1 llo h

h"'l'.lhl Ul<li"l
lllt,!U.,"'"" .~;tthi l llo I.HM\I I t'"''"'

\ luJh UtiI"'" ji,H rl
''" ,&111\111 "'' 111
Ill
~~.. ..... t' "'"' ,,, " '
I lh \\, >lo 111 l.tmoU "tll.lh ''''

ho!!llho \hoottlolo 1 lh, L,),,. .llln
lu '''' ''"'' ll11l\nll
fl.
\ Uol Ill \ jU Ill ..If, 1\\ 11 1f u ~II\
... 'Jo'lll"' ..llhl ....,
'"'~
1 \t ~l ll 4 I~'N1I\I
I '
#, \,lo'1'11IIW11toWu,tlt '-~ ''' '
""
...
TCST
" " " "" ' ........... ......l iio1':'\ln

"'!lln;HIo,vu
.lllllhot. ,ut~t h
'\1 ..1 *
.. ""...
1 ''''"'' Ill uu,lo 1
\ Htd..,lll'tlll\l H >I\ t, I\til' h P'"'lhlo'

ho" .IU\o' ol \ jlolilll
I I
lh ,l;lllhlll"li~llltlll\ h ,h" ~hlhll'
II
\ho"ll;lo 1 t"''h h\jllh ,.,loUIIlll\ ,11 ltlt'

h>41l'llo I lljJ
I\
I lh 1 Ill oil\ I\ l.u, ol ,,. tho lo,~~otj,,

fltlf ..thll~ \ jl-llh Ill'
\
"''
BUtlOt ~ 8UnQNHOt.ES. ANO fAOI~S
Boslc Types ot Buttons
BUJTONS AND SUlTO NHOLES

&!th"lfH .uld tull cMihft\ ;uc- l' nlh hi!W1icr~l.ukl o.ln
,~r..uw lllll t h ("tr rnn \ollt\ ,-.urrl!.~' h Ill hcl.tl"' ~ltl'\
o"lt. ~tii'IC"fll tolf'llhfl II\ Jlo.tllll.( ~ IMIIIM O il C>fiC' 11Jf'
,_,the prm"'ll ~t(11N ttlfcllln:h ~ t.''lft"\j\llf"'ittl cJ'I'I'I
l!lle <'I J<"'f' o>l"' ltk ('llllN 1odr. I(lt f)lf I' j'l'l I" Clci'\Uif'\
~c \~m lUI"' h<:w>J. o~nJ ~""'- .liW~I't" '" '

8ullcllfn r~:ncor n '-lit' .uW thn '"''""" d<t.1tS..'-" cor
lbt flU 'lll..ir r<t~J:'I \li~11K "'"'I"' w.IUHthk
..qWR" rm.anrk .p~rtrt-NII h.liJ full. rl4 lulf.lt.llll
11M'\ ~ nlftlm<llll\ dN(!"-"InJ tl'\

~r.Of d t:;: rw\.lrKhn 0, \MIUIW1C'n IC"f'"-..c'ftll.fU thl.
t- tllu\lr.KIIWil.
do.ltnm'f ~ thf tluUo'll"'

lu.ttom c.Nt bt- lfUdr ('If
j"btlk
-ut.cw
IUU.U.II
~ '"'t'-'111 konc mcchtfo~ofJ't''h u"'""'
tnt~ l'lf k-Jithtt ffM'\ C-'" t-r flbtn " ~'tW.IUu

tt-dN (llflikd, tJof\~ (If -s.Jk llt1lhc'\J rhc'n- .IIC:
tvltucn ror notn "f'l" ul prnwnt fn>m \f'l"'l'tU(,H I'
lo...riWI"~-INi..lnl:ll'w (lultM .10 lnlf'li(Ltlll 1.1\hMwt
\Utftlllrftf
""* ~h h
r'-'tlJ ,.n
llutt<>n~ .-n- c'l'"lfn() Of .,._..,...
.lo."('(\flltlti:~J.JIC' ll'w U.lV Uf the' "'ULII'\
bJlP'Iit 'IC\.t.at~ oc
llf't
cl\rf
cho." ormnu "' J\ .a I.Jr'ft tl.-1'\: Uw
c~lft lu~n ~ \$Wftltn~,..,.,~, 1.am~rnct Nct"n u;tht

1.'1'~ k lt.lhlou!Ch \fft"'-JI, bonlul'ltJl. CJf Mts:t..\1 \hh
\o('\\ I IHt l'lt"h htitlt lolh h ,t\, IWtl 1101 lnUI h(>l~ lt~l
tl.l, llllWill
00
l int )11
0''''"
Shonk Bul1ons
\lunL. hutwm h.l\'1' .a tclolld hll' .arkt ,,._rtllU\ 1\J'n (>(

'-'~nL. I"Ut. IJ~brk . kW\9. lt~UI , 01 J141\IKI all~1l(d
tn th~ untkm<k lhc- t.h.anl. '"''" 11'1'1' \11Uiton .a"JI'
from tht Ltht"'- WII.K~ . .alkWttn~ IUIIf'lt fIC Lt\fl\t'O(

tJilvk IC'I fll \mnothh ul'kkr tlw buthl11 "'lll:n '-"""11
HOIII'bQ'
,... .,..
Uote 3t. 118
Ovo<IOp
8uttcn dowrt"\
n-qu~
1n Q\.nbr ntC'flil.hn;, \Jc-
lo tht \hJ-RWit"t ol , ... bunon f<W onthJIH thr dwm

tte-r '"" \nnptMl\t ~rmtnl\1 .$\mmt-tnc J..l-1
mcntt. tw'~ uttn\W>n' tb.at .art- parllkl ,.-,tb ttk
.a\\--mm~tnc hoc lht nt C>f che bum-n ts1htdk"
'
lWW 719116
llf'lfll031
Bunon/Bultonhole Exlenoon
,,""'the- ('C111(1 hnt. ow e.'\left\tl.)ft Wluld be-~
0
0
T111!U.[) lOOPS
Sowlhcoug.h
l ""' ,. ,,.
0
0
363
on l ht ctnt lmt" Clllht 'tJ!nt'l't"Ot. Tht buttonh~>k

t.tJrt1 ilt the' ttnt.:r hM Jind finbhn on t~ bud\ oi
cht ~unlt"n l \h~ m formJiuon foltow)
Types o f Buttonholes
Mochlno-Shtched
1\uno nho l-c' u n lK' ~tht h\'d
,1\
\ lr.l1Mhl ,,, "'-t \ ho lt
OJM' n l n~\
'
Bound BuHontw>les
line 10 131 ~
htld<:d f,thrh U)\'.:1\ th.: IJ\\ C\1~-c UJH.'II III)o! In lht'

)o!~llltll.'lll , 'I h h I) flt' tf b uthmhnl(un ll\' m:ldt1" .1
'\.CJirmu t"' o r un t to ,, ltlrn h t.KI\4.' fo r \tlllh ln,tt.
I
llovn<l
LOOPS
l.oor~ .m: u an ow
'"'I' u c 1u11Wtl hl." "Hh or ,, tlh
out . 1 filleT. I m lllll\\IUC~Imt"l fl;lrlll~uh. li"\ l'\ ,If\"
~t'IWfJII)' m....k' h)'
,1
crhn hmw I ~"1' .11\' '-lltd u,t
,11 t'tll ll'r lhw 1h\ Jultl\'\1 t.id~ ' Jnll\' lit\, lo ll>i."l ~1th
m wlt ht~l an t' \l lmltln
Sill s
\ Uh ,,ul '"'' , ulullc.lltwt. '''jl\lk ,u lolt'IK th.,.t
nnl ril\d tlliot lllu t.llollhll
~\Ill
"- ..
364
Ch0Pifofl6
evnon.hoSe Longlh
UW' k'n~th of~ boU(If'lhok' h drtt'f'lninrd h)' IIW dl

~mcti'f ()( ;1 0.11 buii(Nl pluS 1/llfnch. ftlr ~I) lisiiC'
IKi1101\S rOOd s!Ui~.. itt' JNt;o!' JM
S.lftd Gormenl
MIUI. th''l)l"irlon SO that bi,!Utlrlholto is <It lrASt I 1/Z
lt)l.ill"\ up :md '""'\''" from bclr or bucUt width. 'rtlC
,,Jht ~.u1 he ~u(\) with V~.'kTO or hook :~nd C)'C. if
m'C'Ck'd iM"t' i."Mnlp!Mj. AJ,~II)' th<' ,ar<' rule for thr
";thlb.lnd nn tht buttonholoe .sick.
8u1tOni'IOte Ptocement
~ bullonhok lllll'fl''MC srntulh Stlfl~ I --Inch

ovt !tom rht nrtt ttonr ton th<" t\ttn.Wtlf'l- ~~~~
\YotslbOnds ond Cufls
t'll'ft'. ~Jitot'l R'IU~I bt t:filf'fliO tht dlnan~'l'l*
f9Jro2a.b
~~ lht h0k'Sdthtbull011 tw U'ltht~IJth<'f lhf'
ln~truc-uom
bunon sh.anL \.hrl. cht bun.;wlhc'lk p.ll('('t'nrnt out

from c.ht '~'~'~ tint ont-tuiJ rlk o.ht.t.UK't' btt"'C'C'f'l
tht' holn ot tht button ~nJ oot-~U tM "to.Jth o1
tht tlwtJ.. Otl'w1'1u~. tht bu-tton.hllr \\IU noc bt
nteftd "1th tht bunon \.btt' COf'\ ll(lllft fwnr
to shQulckf, nt #Of lh<' ~ .. ho m'lt-\ tht
..............
Burton end But1onhele

Plocemenr Guide
Ned<line>
\.~rk the bouonhek down rrom thot M\IJrf'l't' .n .)
di1UtKt tq!W to OCk'-hJU thor dl.l.ltk'l~t olthc but

tOf'l. plu 1,~ 1nch.
-r .
.. I)C.,."ll''
..
fOt button arld bunonhott-s at)pt)'.
..........
Ur.t>elled Gonnonl
\UJS. bunoohok ~nWflt
cur~ w'bt.
;tt
the- ~~btlulC' to
Sit-
...
-ej
..
c..
c......
..........
~>
8unonh01e ~lng
MarL tht Ont and l.a5t buttonhok. Divkk tht rem.dninl ~ .among tht remaining burtonhoh:s
Mfdfd \\'I'W!tl ~log txnonhok;s. consider ~X
In~ boltOnholt liS tWotr hl thC' l).aSt le\'cl ;as pouibft'
ro avuld fiJpt)in.g Thb ma) rcquir~ d~ or wider
pt:Ktmtnt lh.Jn ck"Jittd.
Cr.,.
"'
Button Ptocement
~ I ML bunon pl.tccmtnts on the left ~l<k c:on~pond
lng IO ~tUOtlhOie$ Oft lh~ right. Qlntc-1 th(' S!)QCC
IJiCtW'tt-tl holt> of thi' b utton or ctm h.-t n( the shank;
t>l.ace On the \.""<lnttr line of the g-;rmcnt .
Diagonal Buttonholes
lht ru l e~ \loiilt'ti J>r.:vlously 3pply. Mal:<: a copy of 11\t
huuon anc1 hutlonhulc lllnc:cmcll1 as a guide fort h <"

t>.rttonhoh mukcr.
.HtONI
J
)
How to Ootormtno Accurate ButtonhOle Longth
l'lull~'nh,,k kn~th
..:t~n('f>N;\1
:~nJ
It rna)' IM.' dlffh ltll 111 d('t,'rmlm' tht '")'"" 1

It'll ,1\anll',utt\\t'l"hJlf.t\111
fullhaiii~VUdll'; And ththl' bulh'"' rna1 .an (,\t\""C'\1 .. n~l._k'\.,".llt"'.t.
t\t'lt'l\' p l.-, hl)l. lhCilUIIIIJiftf\lt \\4"\ the
l ' l '"tll\"1(111 ,'of\ AJ'"''I.'<" ""'Uf' J,\ln.;
th\ ,h.
;m\l'h'l u i tlw hutt(n luun
h' \l\k' \l.nL llw
'" th'l' ""h.lln,ot>-t (II\
:11tono...
t.U.u... .mJ
pti\h llh' hlllhll lhfnu.,:_h II ' ' ' ' h$111. ,,.,,,, nll.> _\1 ""' """'" ,r.; ,'11\!.'ltht f
' ' hc.1l
h.,\\t' 1fw,t'f
h'tt
"llht l"tlhll\htlk 111-Ad\llh" ole 11 .... 11-ll'l*"'- fl.l.lti.lhf,'\'U\'\1 l.,.'\_(lt;
tlUI \h"IIWif\
w.-.u ttMCil'l'ut an hulhlm'\1
'1.1"'' kH "''' .,,..,,., \\Wt
n\' ""'.
kn
ndlt
~~~1//Jc"UI;
l~tl)l.lh,
"~''' rhr.( h'"'"' ,,,,
'';.1''
n~hl
~.\n1WI'II
kn~th
~~
t~ ""l~'
\1(";a~ll"
~tlltM-
'-'''1~-!.t
'~"'
~,t'I'W"ll'""l
~.arn'"
l'outt'~~l" 'l-ro~r
lltlll"tlh'"' ,,, ltllh'', ' "'"'''''"'I"'<"' bl~-l t""'""' .an..t ttk t .. ru1urr rt-k'ft'fk<"
'C
Facings for Cut-Out Necklines

and Armholes
FACINGS
Slltched Focongs
-' <tUt(btod J.w-in;('i rruJ\.1-r\ p.rJ't'!$' J' 1c' '>fk.,..d ~

~ of !C:.Int~ Mol dN~:m t~~1tlt ,utt.Yt ""' Umr\.
MmlM~ tt't'\dt"'l~ ~lm1(fll\. WA"'t,l h~"1fl

.tnd All\ \hl!:hn.t \\hlf'f\' "'"" C'\1~ rtiU\l l:lc:
C'UIOUI
l1nt1o .
In tlk flllk'"''nJ: \('flO. fn>r11 fiKifl.g\ nn J!l\0 be

nkw.hiK'rl hi (lf\('4 \In h h 11i tu l -otll nUhl(!\ .md
tk'\"'\ tl'-'' ,....rnknh 11t' tod~t' of U..r ~nrnlt'nt''l cut
'"'' '' ("4.'\1 tntttht n~o~xhht"d fM'Inr;: foe" c~t fil.
tRt' It"'\. ltntNIItlll: l(lf ~:ulddn' ' ' htn fxin_,: r;~thf'r
than I'I"C..K<' I\ nM.ldiiiC"ll I
"""""
hQUIM t 00
I rMt '"'' IUt(\rr. .lrul tmm 1).11h Ill\ o-.w t"\lto~m l

;.ml trim('),(('\\ !lndkl)t\il nn tmt\rn
Un('$. Rn.holl'l "~"~"'' I'"' ut huth j'Yih rm nd
IWC~IIUI~
driliW lilU ilK\

~t.. l ilt' \k-1th (..t the blll t. ~~~ in \ll{Juld t.utt'd
lk1 h of tilt hom ""' \lhw Unt ptmn hilnt:tt v-
....
1'1t'.lll. Cuttht b.K\. hKUIJI: hurn 1'.11"-"

f tOOl \lrl.. .about Of\t' thtr,J llj) fum ttllltr IronI
rK"<Yif'K ld th;~w \.1;~\h llrw ,.,, .. nut~;hn.. ;111.
\tK'I"n lnm 111ft lnth
..e'lnUkkr { ul t-..
in' fn~tn JUpt'l
l.lt\(\ .11R' ftO( Tt(l'lnfltt {""' (.lfrt'"'l
tout An pll (llthr P'Uiftpt'tt(fft_ ~.a h lhl lukl

bkL. t..nn~ ldloa "rJ&lhtl.uW" Ollhc' prrarnthn'Dl>nt'OC 4rtt. \~\~ p.1.r1' panh .11ndcvl'
fo,wes2c.d
to natiW .11 kwl.
Thlt t<>lkl'tll!.; trntn,r..hon' "'"'' tonh to IW\1.

idW \he~ .v'l4 ~ t.Kn('. folHwl. fa
UlO rtqlllnll'f; buttlltl\ l'ld btott )Cthak-\
d~wd '"tb \bim. ~l htetlntt ot Vlu'l\
pc_Ui ~n. polt.ch. ~ l\llh. ulli~ 1.nvc
twtnllnn. ;and olhcf wit fokfCI
~"'crnt
tn cht .lfrt 'Pflol'~ <IUJl'kf'Fa l'lt'> .tn- piMintd 1\ f"'tl oc lw pk.Cllnt Tl'lf'\
Jfo_ u.IC!d lrum thtp~ttcm bdnft A .rll-rt lht Jo.>W~tn
r;.u<m b.a ~ dndnpnl- f..._in :\ for dn-ph c:ut
OQt IWdJu'td ,., Ml'!'lhaln m.ll\ bt- mc-sl nJ "''n
thtcu' N~~:t r,f tbr nJ. .lind .lrmhtllt .tthr e~nnrnt
t.l'!ofd UIM the Uitll\ 10 olhc't ~ft'l~h 01' I<J C.IUW .11
tlo-I"'C'r fll Buch nwthn<k .If\ llhi,IBfcd
.,.,. '
~1.h ~nd CJ\('tlolp Mllnth .and Ntnd
"''t
R~:tr.Kc-
4111\d hknd
\tnt! !I) f-Ktnt IOl..hU urct<h
h1\l(L fo:Ktnl(. 1 U~.Uc 1
..
lt:f'"'
fold-Bock Foeo!'QS
ko~cJ.bkl.
V.Cu1 Nockllno Foclng
\ft,llufl, .u
-'
....,.,
Mt,r ltili,lllj; tht' p.llh.'fll .111d dr..whiR .l \CiY'fl

IWdlhtt', tr'nl ('\itt"
RCH;ti.i.' th~ \11~":1 1"-UI ol lhi.' 1).111\'tft .lnd dfJ\\
b\ Ins:. lllJrlr. ,1,1\h IIIli' .md ncltdl''' 1\h.ttli.,J '"'"
\lluwn In((),
\loa\h, OHrl.tJ) Htl.' ,uul hh~nd l)t).
Focong Types
f.-m~ .JI) '" ""idth .. ncs \h.lf" b<H l"rM'I.llh r1ftum I 112 1 Z uw.hc1 lt1<' ~l t.t\lnll \l1ooid hot
)nngorr thom tt~: dt'pth uf ttl(" front nnl.hnt tnt
ho1"1<;\'1 o~pf1UI
~p.u.ll ~ laadng lnch'\Mitull~clnJ\ fof
I 01 b.tl. lik:lnjtl. ""'I i)tiUi.' I
thr nor('-lm1
;u.d .armholt
( bnll)iflf'd
luw ~nd
f;,d nJ: o\IIIR-fl!Or (Mill I! ll'lr liN' 1'\ot'o \
o~rntho"-
SCoop-Nocktlne Foclng
FIQu<OS31.Q
- 2
Cut.Out AmhoiO Facing

fiQVIH d h . j
\tt.:t ltJdfl)l. till' p,,thUl .u~t,h,l\\llll<t lh' .ann
hul,, trllll \'\ll'\"'
lklr.tf\' i,IJIJ"'I fl.lll Ul 1111' J\olltt'f11 ~1111 ~~~~\\ IM
hlK; !I'll!\. \l,l\ll lhW
.m~ol IMhht' ,,,.,_~,1 .h-....
\ IW\\tl inlh)
\l.l\h. ,,\, ti."IJI i !'! . .-ml 1~1~ ntl '''
lt.~tt\,1\ lr.t\ollhfll
'"'''"1111:
.L
FIQIIH~ 4
Comb'ned Fo<>inll'
Fq.l'es
1 .: t...._1nlt\ Mt' 1r.k~
(omtll!lt"'l
lr"m
~~ tRll'll ~~~
NcL JUlld11"- ll'ltnt!W'd 1 ~ inth Jl ~hcoukkt:.

rM"tl... .and~ .anJ ~ t.:.~Trl'l .H ~hcJMn.
T~ ,omp6rit' ~ht
!..,til;; tht \hcOUkkf d.lrt
I'~
'*"
,ltf(olt'n hi'M't
OI~IW
l.tdnJ:' h'' JtollnlCnl' "llh ~trltlhw~ ~.hould br

.,lc_\('kft:~ot'\1 hth.nt lhC' IK'ldl" 1"'-'lt<'lll b S('~
r,at~-d lh""'""""' II tht' p.attt'ftl h3~ b(ot-n ~p3
II 'HlU1d
t'-"0 .~.....
tw
r.-or:~ ~ttt.~;th .at <ft'h"' ~L "'""" -TOnhnc

"'
,:::t\'(1'1
drpfh C'lil tl'lt trtlftl nc.,:l. \k.I'Ott'IDtllh

nY'l bt- u..rd fat thor bl~ ~ ._ rw
r.ttN. 1'',~"' ''"k \(,)mhnt"\ c~C1h('r .and ua

w..Ul"'' bt'inJ! I~on-d.
nant I "irKh "' )htlll.lkttr. nl.. .and ).idr. "ith
hoc biN'IC.kd In llt'to .a\ \.ho1. n. t 1n~r1 '",II ta~

.aiiHt \ ""'-' Umt to ht..Jp rrrwnt 'lot~chlng.l
lttf't'"' htf ~ l. '""' illu'lotrJit('(l~. fBrol.n'l hnH in
J.~e.atc (lf~in.ll ,,.un 1
Plackets
and Pockets
,,.,
....C1Cllt
Pl)lnt<J PQ: t{ """"' ~~

Yo ng C(IIOr "c): +'
51,~,..,11\Pb:
I!'
I'OCI<rn
~.,. ~ ....o!tl ,....
A(eCfdiOn Pot I
)15
3'$
so. s.orn
..
~,..\led~~ Pice,
w"'Axt.'
HldOIJt'l $lcM 5oto'n
!.J~"-01
PI:)Cio .,
,,.
'"
,,,
Ax CIOII 0\:ato"'
...,_, Soeo'n Poe

Jl(ln flllx_....,
310
)1$
370
>eo
>S1
.>e2
,.,
1/
choorer
I I
FICJle?
Poftorn ptot oOd MonfpU1oUon
PLACKETS
J h:Lrt K
,,,,tw'J ~tt" '"' I-" ,,s l'('fll 11C' ,I.:U~'"'I
"'
''1- o;Jnttc!ll~''*".- k\ <'. ,L,lr1 ,Itt"
tao."-<'C f\ln( ollf'IJ ,.., fl-r1h PJ.kf.d \olll I'\ tl ..11\
~~h anJ ,_,llh llh ~4111t J'... Uh,l f\'\llkll,l tt
""
~rOll- " """,....._t;,toh.l,bult\..t.an.ltout
"-"""'-lit."' :"~~''"" d< n ...
tl...,\,1 .-mi iJ.cln\t 1\W
l~h;a.h,I".J~.
J~.k L.M ku~th u\.;tmpll S Ino h4"'
l' c
.m,l \t.aoe: lhl

It I '' f, >I fl.-'1111o.IU
''l)..t 2
\ Jl
I ln(h
lmdl
,,,,.,. .1
lir'k' ln.m I h' tt..: tl\.. f".ulkl tl '"'n
"'l~Urclnk""> t .a tn.. h '"""fl..kll
lh~":".~tn
Mrt\M\' 1..,1,.1rkl Jll:n"lin 1h1 l""'''""'td ln~:
Jc--.,:"''' tof ,_l,.

line' f'f'n .. t~ ('lao. h1 ,an ,-not ,., thr w t.. "r"'
""'toor t \t('nl.k'\t """'-.n.l 1ht nn. L anJ '"'''ftle" I"" ,,.
.!lf'l-rt"ftl ~~ ..
kY \JUrt ....... '"'" ._. t."tJ.art(1 :I
~~ 1~1'1\ I UU!.I~U\I.Uh
hlklthr tlJI"'
l'l..n ttw: t'\ IH~ r lnut cn ht,l and 11.'11:('.
"""'\ ,.,.,.l
.
I'
\\fl.u
tw ,,-... 1"I'M' nw.a~t ...n """'\.Irk" I' .~o~l
~'ll~l:l,l,lt t;l f~;U, d h\ l"'llll.ll~'li111W 11rulo 11 lint I
1 ~w~ 1
l.lb.il
;~kit
h"t llt"'U
\ ...u~11"'"m "'llh 1)
,.,.. 1.. trr, fi
,.,,,,,Jif
1"\f.a'l'l ttw f.k11tl:: ln"IK"\ lll'IM 1oht1Uidf1' ;Jt tW"d,,

t:tld"lli. I .a Ilk h l"n I l '""'"''' tl)l;' I.XU~ 1\llh
I und....ltt'd ~ l>n.'l.,n hL~ 1
lf.k~ 1"- 1~ .,,,. .nkll.k"!ru: to ulll.k-ro.:.llh ~
fiQUio J
krp:.n lm tlk't'thtt ~d ''"""''~ 1 t..~;l.h"1V'~ .u
k'\\'1 ~lth t'IC'IIII fl thJ~'\1 ro1l\"oll ' 'It lhJI ~~
I""'"'' t)f th\' Jl.h l.tt h mt '"''"'''''
,l,,
lt\'IIW\ h~: 1'11"I ,md ~~~~~I l in J I" rhJof,Ut'\1 Ink
, ~!If'
' ~f
c .1
D
'
112
c~.- 17
Ponern fltot and MonlpviOtion

FIQUI I
1rMc lrC'ont t'altun bn kh \ldt- vf thr IWJ'I:t
r\~1\
piJKl.t-1 knJ:th tt'\,111\l~l:. U) ind~ont
A..("
A-1
l lfl it.h thor pol..ad(t ~11h I ~mC'h ~.lft\~lklw-~.
~t.h Cut lout~. ~l tlll:td 'Ptadf1 touwd

!rum C tf) &1.
c.lt.1lth uf c,pc-n!nt~: lnmrk I ln<.hht
""'~
I 1/.! intht\ bt tntlft'
'-
l) ta.wt"nt'dlin.: itQfnl tol.mULt <.. B~'ftd

8--0
r .gur?
\I
1 Ill if'M; tl('t.. -.qu.att~ f>m B ( c>t'IJ\oc'f:l

~t~htl) (Utvt d lhw '""" n to f
J'bcf' ~f'M'I Utld('tll(',llh .lnd II~ lhf ptM:t.~'1 18.

ll. I. I (. to IU. Rt'mm'C' 1'-ll)t't ;tfld Jlll'no lm .l
pttfot ..t<d II I'M'
'""
'
A
-'
11n
Fwpo 3 6odce
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Dresses Without
Waistline Seams
3M
TORSO FOUNDATION
1 ht' hlf~ tc.Jnd.llk}n i\ il hudltt' ~nd \~lr1 umbm.l!i(!IH Wttthnut ~ 11Mlint' 'C'llm 1bt !ouncbttnn ('N;h .ll htp
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ll)' \41~ c~l <k'llhl~>t.rldN ~"' ()IW h1Ut\ll.alion 1\~Tlr!pt'd
milk~ d.Jrt.,. Mld lhr od~ founcMuon
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t) bl"t'\1 on~ H<kN te>t~ '~ lht """*ld(or-dm tw.nd.ai.JOI'I It~ rN!IIIn ru~. onto! which 6 t~Ur\ma: (flntom K"t.I'MX lltW'\ I ht ICH'O 1\ hUI'llMUnt .l\ II blw 1._ clllhn ha\k lound.i:..t~M.: \lwt\, ~ ~ knil topro.
1.hf'\~ ~tk1 J\)\\U\ l\OotllklUI -..u\.tllnt ,...IR~I. pc,lrt\. <WI,_\. .nd _,~~~ hoO\-.t\, lir:coU.od:i.. .ad Qoolm"'df
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(Based on Torso
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(MPIRE fOUNDATION
rtNI FOUNOAIK)N
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S:J Prtne<MS W!"h 8lou!ed Hem
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Tr~ tbrtllbic~ ~ CUI..._J'IIIII"t'
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dullt" ~~~~~ tt.tlh'fll\ I ho111\ I .uul :. tWt' < h .tph.'t
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PRINCE5S-UNE FOUNDATION
Oellgn Anotvab
lht pru~"'llnt f(MII)IIJ,IIIIIIIl h I fit" )\,l\4' (elf df\ ('kiJlo
tn,c Jifo:!.~(nt ~lh ~mll.u ) I\ MilK' IN taut'
1.)1,\IJ:,rl I 1\ flltl , \l )'ll1~'d l"l!lf\'\\ 1111\' t.lt\' \\ ~1th i

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Pattern Aot ond Monlpulork>n
Pl:tn lht fo llo wi ng:
~12
TtJtht t hlllt ~.nd h,hl.tC,\Nl f(IUn.blk'llt<~. \\ 11t1
pu\h pn1- tran1kt tht ,.,u\t Ibn' 10 thr 1~unn

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l.m~1h Cll tht llnint
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J ()11!4" ' ln'l'<f, )1.11'( (\I! !IHU
PANEL DRESS FOUNDATION
( "' thr I""' rm tmm till fl.lfM"t

flofrwr '-'1,_.,,,,111.11 IIt~ I,,,.~ .,,, I"'"' h, I loll~ ,,~, l
.lml .lUIIIIolt 1m tho lnll'tf>M lll,C f\ollli'fll\
n,,. lllt\Ct J),tnt I h .t \j,mlllllnl ll11ttldo11iot1 "''''"""'

'kll \\'.111\ llrc'IJ:n\ I oiiiMI 2 Jilt' b.lwd nn lhh luun
(Lillnn \\'tlh ln,IIJ(.irUttlotm, "'""l otht \.trl.at;nm
'"" ~'""'".
Ponorn Pk>t ond MQNpulohon
r'Q\IIAt 1 '
h-.t' lht ff,IU .lUtllt.~~;l.. IHfln ftMjnd.IIM'Il
lA( I
~IU-'11" -' \-l\Mtnt Ujl htMn hlp t.nrl I l: uM.h

1111111 IIW .IHnh"*' l>rw lkr~
lnlhf
\tyklirw tllrn\.tn lint hldk.ltt~trt~*""' .l.nl' 1
lt'1MNUuu do~th tu tilt- \l~k-lmo\ l"\llt tntoiiU
fuout 1104. tilt I. IIUHMl(-luU HI ltw toChft Ill\ kk"-IU-'11~ IIU ~,1\h \Mh; ttf lflt' \h~:ltn-. t htttU .il\d
''*"'
"~>-">.
I'WIIll'\~ ~I'J"d h~o~~- ("lllh J'III'Ulc" jUtw-1 Mollh

lh t.&.fr lkhll'l l"'llrfll'' h~tlolllk tho fn,JI1tth: It,. II'-
bntnt 1"'1 dw lund tl'or4n luont ,,,. U\4 ,., .t

~ "'hrr"IU.-.11'1: liM lilllltf: f\llhflh
\..t. ,,_.,,... I t .. IW ~fo dltl

I~~UNJ ,...,.._ ltw hflti'IC Jloi!Wh ,1.-. """ llldtlllt.
.-loti'-' tl.lr t\1..-.J..d j'\llh '"'' fhor fUI!un '' u .. ~,t
rwm ehtdr\),\J'olnth
........
hlrn 1 K' 11111111{ '""'" \huuldtr .at .tnnhult o~ntl ~~

""'\lint '-"" I'-IJtt' lt.X fOf f(Ukk
,..,.,t"'l. '"
I'LkC'
J'.lltl:' undtrtM:.Jth til(' l""ld bdn~
uu'\J \IJII..tht linin~ I"''' 11n , ...-_h p.tth:ru <11KI t-ut
II tiUI l1-.t \t l"'l.llt: J"'lk h- \(kJ 1/}." IO .til WJIU" Oil"'
I -4- .11 Ilk ,.,_,t.llfW
\i.,."ff f'IA-1.. c...uwr tht IM.flllhw ,u-.J Uitdt In lhl'
linlnJ( ftllh riJthl ,..,.,..., l.kmJ: \ IU"'r ''"' I)(' pl-'tt
o~rr~tmd lht ltl.:tmhiJ( tn-ctUnJtl
Nt.l
~olhl
l)f.-~ rk"'\' dJrt k(' t'h.tt.lnJ .ut.al.
Uuw 11 \l.t\.h litK' I Ilith bth""- tht- ot"WU.&I .. I( .I

lk"l of lh..- \kh ti.lll, ("1\o\JinJC .at d.ut JIOIIII
"1""11.-
t 1.1~ o11"WI
l"llltm p..r~h <11(1-n~ ttw '''""
"'"' dht.lltllllJII tlllllt.'f\1\-.1 W"\tiull Hholllkd ~.t
I ~t'1. \~ll tl.t II lt'Jt't .
IIQUI'I I
....'
.......
. .
.l....
..
I ni''Q t.on
'
ColO
l.,.,I() llltW'n
.
.
.
.
......
..

-. '
..
"~-
00SSES YIITHOVT VIAISiUNE SEAMS
~~
t i.U I
~~'\(' ll,u l I,IJiot'.
\,j,l 1 .fndll \lffliclfl J l n'flhl l1,l<ll

j)fiJ" lhl' ~:r.-ml!tw' ;uMI ll'lolll 114>1<h
Jrimll" \l\kfhM' "' '"
EMPIRE FOUNDATION
3 4 (1011 and (I(X;I< Ponfloll
( \ll \I.J<oh llr~ot II or IN \
111<' t'fll jlhl luund...ttllm h d('l't'tl)llll"d htn th~ bo~t.lt

tnr'il~ .arW \hnukJ hkludt. ;~II C'o.)fl\1~1 J:UII.ItljrM"'o \.''lot
&\ th4'1MW 10 l~\'t"IUjl l ltloi,l:ll\ I .llrkll.
11\t' \I)'Minl C'lf tht m1lilrt. !.l~t..,.,. um~'\ undo r
tl~ lkl\t .aru1 .illt'ltl\\ the bAlL t<l-.lHn~H \ ''n~t~ d.an
1\t~C' tht' \l\k1hlot .illrk1 a 1-.h ul \Uti\ htln" the>
\l)>klint' ~"011111" !hot> hMUtOUI hi
11
"''
PAHU IACt
PANO.fPONl
\......, lhr- tkk dMt ""'(Jf l!'w u.Jt f'-1~'

-~b-
on ruro-t dtJI" .. IK"ll't'"'.d ptuw .uld

""a.m .a l~nt ur 1.ibd ' ,no.~ c
""'~ 1tw h1p~ the lr...II.JOIJ ~ l I'IIWhiR lhc
hunront~lllnr .and Ihot IJf!Wf\ If tht- o~rmh~
lo1UO. hmc f1nt ' 1 The h J" m..l' ltxkh '"''"'bl'
ur fl..\'" "P-k'" hte"rtn tbl "' .11nd tht .umhu.l,...,
fN\ nne llo. .at Ihe ~li'IW lr\ t"l I Tt .an o1nd 1'\'ftk"' ~
((
~)
..: ....,..
"~
'\
"f) ...y
a.
jl.llttrn,_
..
p~
I
(
~
!5
\I
~~
;
...... ,.
l97
9
- """".
PoHorn Plot ond Monlpulollon

figl.l'e l front fOfso
\iiJrnr l'.r1tth
\rmlwk I ~ltMIIrt' lht' e,llfft'h,'tlh: \41 111111 t..1t h iHIII
1"' t/h/14' 11m 11\lt~( f/Jo c 1111!1!1r flllolt' llolftrrfl, ItIll<"' tllll
fi/(JI iiiNI 1t11'1Uiilo' llkllh ,(h'rtl
llllk~ "'11111~'\11 .
\l.t~l.
1/l lmh In .11 tho. w:h lllrl('.

twtlltm II o.ldt hi():. mcct.J
lllp~
(l l il!>IC~:Ud
llurr (hWI4tJt utl/rm ~~KI'Ik1Wt't'11
tl>lll,ftr )lllhl~oll rw t (undw 1111U ('I ""'-' lll<'''Urt'>
\l.ul.. illtd
\4JUI11l' Uflolh(rul
111\:llt Kl\~n .
1111'111
Mt'<f\til'' th(' o~rnrKnll . Add ur 'uhllon.t UIH... h alf

thr .1movru till t.'' t'h ''~of th e (),'ln\h,
1l.lu' fHlnt 101~1. ~ l .ul. hu l pohrt, lh.m d,lft,

Jlltl bmt o.lf(l\ U iu(h tJn lhll. \\11th 1''-"h l'in.
In
21t1l h t''
l mf!lt' M)li'll11t'
\c1Uoll l~' ,r 1\m 110m U'llh~l IH>f1t, h ltl\hlll): \lrd~

utttl\' rlh,llll\1 hl lk' w.m 1 .1~<~1 \ tbt,l\., n llrltl.
l)l..h ,j \\IIH'I I Urw Irum It h1 ""''''' lhr .1'1\l't I\

n'" uf thl' , ., 111111 ,t.ut "'"''' '' tlw h 1. hrn: 1' "~
I ~ p.uit \ l)ll'llnt '\lljthll) lnw.artl JhO\'(' " 'a h i

rwl \liJthlly '"'""1ml htlow w,rht, lllcnd whtu:
"'
nuh"l fllrlamt \hat)t. imllt.tltocl hr hud.o. u lhtl"'\1.

lho Cfllpll lhl p.uwll\ \hnnn In rl~uu f1.
Dl-1\ :1 llnllrnm 'Ilk dlut jkthll h'l hlf\t 11\'\IIU
Ma t!. II t/>t h ,hclt~t\11 tt~t \
ro\W
l ..ll('l ( .n ,,,k ttJIt
(.~..1., "' ,.....
\h-'Uh' till
Ito ln<1h ltllt '""'h ,,...,.._ (" ~~
,1..,11 h~ "' tlw ,,,I, lith "''' "'~""''1 "'".a''
t'h .hk'IAI\1
,,
'
!
'
,....,..,,
.,.._,
.....
FIOUIs 3 4
._..,..,, .. ," l"'tlll'fll' .IOn!{ ,.,~ lcllnt"~
TENT FOUNDATION
,,,..,,
( "' ,,..,h Jjn('\ '" hu\1 rol.n t and clo\C ~Ktc d.lr1.
Rt u.-upJIItrn
1 ntplrt Sl' k'lfnt'

c ..Bicotthtfnoflll"l:'t to.
f..(;
[)...[ """' I 2 m~h "-!UIA' .I ,t""" Ill'~:
D-l
J)Q~ ruf\"' '" klo< tRlm I tf16tn,lillC \\llh Co

\t.lf'l. tht "'"'" "" PC"' dart """"""' .... ,,,thu:
dlm an.i dr.1" .1 luw 10 tt.- HfU p~ralkl "tlh
t!lf'l' NcL.-
(lt'K1-nurt. lnc"" yp trt'lllll dw U\ ktn~:

Or.I"" dart ~ rq.ullt\ lhr .hit ttlt.al.\
Lt*tr )n.tdl
\WL 1 !\ 1n.:h
....
flU(
rrom "xh J.J.n k'C 1~
0t.1- nno 4a.zt leo(\. mdm.; ,U WIN
1 \ttmJ \&all k~\ II~ inch l:otlow th<' buS1 .and

"""'" 1 8 tnch illt lliC"I hont 1~uarr " \hort
Untl. Kknd lint" .uld \hapt Wtt lc-p.. (for ~;tth
t-rm,: unckr th<' l'lu\1 ;and Ncl. dr.1w bltnding
luK"'\ . .,,,,~ d.ut~ol.m H~.l
\l.fl,lbltC ~,.,
\\,dL tht' "lll'N nd k'l'!\1:11tln0 JNittnu.. If front
~not rtUIU. h (t'\dudin~ I S-IOC'h t'"''\fl . .diu"
tht p.alttlf1 h\ II'Kit.l'll~ 01 drt'.l"'-llJ: the bus:c
d.ttt Utt.1J.t \\liu~t tht' dirt ~ rw.1rnt 10 tl'k- ~
\4.'.1m II tht ~L \kln n<'l "'Jit'h, wbtrxt from
\Kk \(';tm o( tht' b.k:L Urfltl 101'\Q. BlE-nd to l\."10
.u ltk .umholt' lbnlolt-n hrw.
U\ot tht' 1).)\k $~t 10 n.)mpk'ft' II~ PJIIf'rn
l h('t 11:111 \1\hc.'IUtllt li.J\ .1 '"'\''f\4fiK 1~11

lhH' CINI\"\I h) lf.U\trtll'1flj; th\ l1.11t t \(t-\\
t~nm
fmm
dlln .m1l ,..,, \. 'hltldt-r dlttl to lh<' ""'" In d('t(u~ th<r
htmlhlt \~\"Jt trJn,lr-r \ttt \'\{('\.\to tht
ht-tnlin~. 1~.1\tn~ ~o~ottk ~ '~' lut .1 ,)lj,:
Uw
"'"
0~ k'll.llldliti<Wl Ull
min) ~m
-- f~
'91'
!AO
....
..
":"--1
I~
'
'1
I.
,,..
n
4
I
lol .....
I
-'
y y
l.
~~our
tv
t"t' It~ t'l~ fnl
Pattern Pk)l ond Monl~tOn
'"*""
1.1
lr'k1' '"'"' Jnd t.....\. l(lfMJI. 011111 ~,.,,
d.lfl\
\lt-1~ tc'l dlhU\"d ltn(th fn ~IUilt\l
'~"
CONO<JJ~
\tJJ'l.l( (_orT1 .1 JU..:k mn lnf t~o~hlr.' rrln\'fkt ( nm!"k-lt' lhtJ).llh:rn for .11t'11 Ill ftK Slt\"\~t d~ftll\. mOd
l:f\- thttac~ jUmt ~ r'<J~ J'JII f*Wt' I
''''k
fulm ttl(- hljlluw 1111\ll.

lltoiW .1 \l,nh 111M: ,I\ th<!~n
L.lht-ltht hiJ~ill(' \_ ft_ (
f'OJI'It I
r-
f-.gi. 1
400
ChOPffU 18
rlguttt 4 ffont
~39ocl<
cut:. ~"'tl 1/nr from tht lwm en, rhl<l thlilUJ.:h,

th(' 't'c"'dck'r l.larl JMlohll t 1<"\t" IIW dill I
f't.M\" on 1tM' p.ll'lt'f And 1rOM' It llnd t lw l"ntllrK'.
t h' 0 f'Q1.131t. \ I() 8 \larr..

\l.ul. I I lllkh Jl nucJ(lt...rll bMIH....'II .amlhflk
:.r)IJ
w.ar
( ut ~'"'"lim' trnm tht hem .;~nd \ldt'dul point

h\ nut thrcu,t:.h. tht hmt I'!Oint.
t IU)(' thl' \kJt d;ut.

l'l.tu em J).lfltl and tr.H;'f,
r to(, c-quall half of(. tO 1>. M~rl..

\l1ul. II 1/Z. fnc:h In from the- mid point bt1Wtom
J)r,aw:. lin(' fr<mtthfo .unlf~k- ht I J!ld lttNn I In
th~ oH111hPIC' rtd Wdl~t
0 SkoJ thl: hrmltllt'

fUmd:. <UI'\'td Jn'l(' .111 Jlll>tnt I
n ... " " lir'k: hum lht'

II tuG
rmhol~
to ff .llld from
Grnt-ers Cross.rg Don Areas
Rlc.:mltl~ httnllnC'.
Rk-nd .1 nm'ftl lhl(" point II.
ff" ~
"" """"
"QJe 1 :-,..-.. ':'a o-x: ~'!"'""
EqualizinglJw fR'IIll hc-mhrk"
nw
a ~ Uol~ n,;to(!Uj ~
~~ 1 !~hetbtcattnhom
o COI'I".pmya b bolt ~~"ttdl. tU
'""'f' 1\ ~IC'olltf Ifun ~~ b.K l
hotmlu'lf'_
dille:~~ d...: ltlll'l<- .lflldtlllt ot \Lift
th.lt tu1 t"orotn tr.lln,ltrh.'\1 to tl~ ht-rn Thh
don not Uc-.ltt' .-n \ln'k \4lho~tt unlilkHUon.al
Q.~TO'\-t.
1'\~C"\'
~~
Wth 1\ .-JdnJ IU th\' \Ide- W.lftl~ l~t ht If tht' ~II

huut11t ''~ \\'-'ml "" to.JO dc)'W; (It too kJon.w .at
JIU'nt' t .md H .ldt"'' IJ tht \kk' WJm floiif\" h too
U't'lttr tnxn lwd:.lw "":.lbt ~b. mli1
Joow:rtb8(ot ~ ;o
boaldk ~ IIQ.)
E!~ thr . . . 41:' GC'ft\. dw
p-c.lt Of no.IC ntoulh. ft-pln .and ulfft"'.t tht Jlrollll'rm
.......
foJl
km:tl'l oc ~drs tWdtd .,.

kl( v.ndtt--busl ('011" ~-"' ~~ M
Uilt~ J. .! -.b ~' tn fiDIII
II ~d.:h~l:w:;~~
\\brn tlw Nr'.an b a.! txe PPt't
tlx un~ ~~ a mcrJ'IWd Ina
tbc: fQIUm'l \I'!..Jided )rt"U
fRONl
'9JE!'S 2. 3 -=~ec :.::t"'-r

Tbcp..Utml!~ >;n~ ~r-nJ
on
""""
~
~
8uSI PQif\1
.......
0/ond
1/2
""' '"""""
g
.,....,
r1
f9JtO 1
110
,..
......

'
~1
-"1
&
~
Strapless
Foundation and
lnterconstruction
.,.......
,
(. - \
....
lk'\Jttn I
I)C-\J~"
An;llf) 'h
\\'hnr<~t10"1t'M:dl.n~ ----------
lto~ ,jtt' lht \btU u~1 ---------
lf '"'OU
tn .tdiJ fulltW"~ "'hctt' ~OUid '"01.1 ~ U?
"'"''
( hlr lk>h:rodtn.t
'""It\ tr, "11h t'tfllo:r bkJ. entn-.
()thtr umm-..nt\ - - - - - - - - - - - -
IUQOOUCn()u K) StRNUSI ~tm

sntAPU$$ .....CU.SIOOICl
f~notSINf/01
""'.C(SS WITH C.A1Hifll0 MNI\.$

MA-O Kli'SO f()WC.I.c)H
NIUCUS 101$0 f()UfC)AU()U
fn'IING PIOitlMS NIO SOUITIONS

UNOlRSUPPOIH JOt SIRAI\LSS GMMINTS
Ugnl WtoigN ~'~' t'.;c;.rw~. t..;.n
Htovv\Ntq'oJ ~141ft )(WI'f>,K."lQ"'
._..eon.no
ll'lnQ. ~ a'l(l
.,_....,.,.,.
~OO'Ir"og ~II'(JQII
c-...
Poltvrl'llll.;t' 1M
IUSIIUt. COCI$ltll AHOWA$PIE f()UNOAIIOHS

GROMMf:IS AND LACING
8U$C CLO$UI?E
1)(\l~t; n 2 f)(')l~ n Amtl)''h
\\lh\'1(: oil\' I he dnm?_ _ __ _ _ __
1hn~ .au thr d1u1~ u'~'tl r - - - - - - If )'IIU \'1\'ff: Ill .,dll fulln t>M, whl.'t\' would
)'(Jll olcld II /
II ~uu wu... to ~IPI )'

\'o n uld )-.JU ;lJ)III)' il f
umh.14nl n~.
\\'lwre
r tu, -\ Iii( )., a llilrt, m crlay <~nd an un<ltr
)'
O IIH I H , lllllll Il l \
Y(U fCJUIH.I mt!
..,
...""
.,
....,..,,
...
'"
.,,
"''
"''
42$
1()
chope1 /
STRAPLESS PRINCESS BODICE

FOUNDATIONS 1 AND 2
loum~tlllll'
1- -(
~'"''urn.l
tM,tw~:n l ht hu \1 na~l!
Three 8osiC Strapless

Foundollons
l ht" !HifK'n) bod!. prlrt- 10110,
.md hr.ltoprt' JKlpl.lb-1foundat iOn~
h" dl\ drt'\-~- t'\'Ulit~ "Y.lii,~TIS,
n~l hfdtlm<' Wt'./11, ,md wtddlng
drn~
lnund.ltl11n l - 1\u" h hrk1J:~,I .11n~l umt rUnt ,,. nl1

1(>Jimfd ( oou"'uf'd hll'\f' nd bdcw. '-"'"' ll.M-l. h
\lfii Jlk'\~ t\11 ~M
Foundolion 1
f9J'81
I(,.-
fw~thV11 h.11' t' l htu own "pL\1
clu r.Kit"n\1~ ;md ~ good dJOttn

~ t he- fouodltkloni1) fOJ thto~trK~l
~1Umf'1.. ~nnd ()~Utnts. .1100
d.l r"'7 ' \('.lf Gilnntfl l \ \tkh ~ tht:st
fn~U tfl" ~UI u nck~l t-l tU(I IOO
.....
#tiiW "Uflf tht (cfll'lf .t"NJr f>IU<'T'If. ,.,. .. lhr
fl. of .,,.., '~"""*"'h
Tf;tn' '"""' bodkt" h.an\olc:t , ..."'''"'' cw..klnn .&

httntlt-~ to IJM.h trl htom NC:h ~'' "-' \ . .1nd
6.11nd bu'\.t .art t I r.whor .11\M.I"'('.&nd ~ bu't
rM tl'ln t..,. ~- and "'~~
l~n<'n) bodi
OHt
~ft.l'm
Otl>et Strapless Foundot>OnS
i\hn\t", btkn-. ;\nd In
"'""r"''" (1,11 lo\"
Orl"' \4r.lj'lltn ..t\ktuw ,., mu ..u.-t(d

\ I.Jrt lk)lthn z ll'khn ur 01.1 dv.... n from
bu.\l
J'!Oiftl
~UI IIIflllt't'\., p.HI~rn~ hom p.ll!l(r
fo,.e2
fr>Kt" l ht h.K .. p~Utrn. tmt\lllk Jtulcklm~.-: 1n1ht

H81 lint" .
l)r..w h;~t .. \lf,IPk'\ line"' utu\U.alt'd
( ul tht" \U,tpk " h.l( .. h ()ln l'MP'U "'
1,1Kt\ .. 1-4-& 1f) hu IJhfll. \C!tn.ttt ~r' .md l:'lc~e\I"JJ,
foond.-Uon ( -emtwrt"d .-M \ t<, bt-
~)1'1 and"' tx>t~n-n 1h~: bu' t
tl"""...' '''''
t"''''
f 9-" I
tht l'lu't "

bttd8cd. conloorutlt btt"" "~" lh"
u umtu n,l
l'ri OC~\ tono fottnd.nlon . (.ontu~m-J ,...,.,,, bti"
" nd 111 bt-l-~~ ttk- bu~
8r:tt(IIJ c.1npi 1'\' fourklaclon. C.tlflii,.,Ht\1" ""'" "' htkm,
lld tn tJ.,...,.n thrbu,t.
thl)lltr fotuHlblilln. (.o"lfllour uftl I lh~ bu~l C'nd

11\g.rt. Of \I IA,htl~ ;ttwn\. lht InN IYJ1111 1\fl'" lrt df.
ll;l t'\'1 n d (oln hi\'t \hU!lldtf fll M ~ \lfJ~ t tf
f.
!"
\ It'"'\ I:\.
\ ,'16
( o rwln fnund.ltlo n . ( .onhwn utldrs II)(" '"J\t '"'

lh.&t II Pl\h<"'\ lhf Jullrl"'-\ uf ltw- bu~ Uj-.. l<t
\\.1\ph- fnun<btitm l1h ltlthll) IHI~I l hr j,.1.,. ''
I"MJ>Il tiC 1,._1\l\ prornmoll,( o111d I ffl UIUI 11, tiC'
<U\I
-t
~
t
!''"'
d
t I~ th1 '"" L ,l.nl lr,:' .nlll ' ' "'-'' t lw tlllnl
llt.m 1111 .:r.-illlhl'' ,U,II~thl<'~ ~n 1111. 1~1''
I tlftlpl th' Ilk tMih'lll h 'll llw l t'\1111

!lilt h U II\IU I\ llull 1\ d l\1 U\\1.,1 ll!l
1''-k-,"'
-11 7
......
Oosaon 1
'1411 h o,J\II ~.lit~
ur, .,,,
fo.rnl
h lhn1' lllllW\ lot II hal ;Oild lf11'll \!Ufll'"\
"'"'""" 1"""'11" t\l'kiYdr Jlttllhr~t \ w ,.,..
1""11~11'1 V1 h t... t nt rww ""' u,.,t1.rol .u ..t
... ldtn&. and c.w ~... 'tM' llllP& tlt ,, ..
"'"'' I'"'"''
""""'
.,,-...u
...,in~~:
' '"~ " "' '''"'''~" '"'"'"' "''"H"'t' ,,.,
u n t\n' l\lr;.' II' tllflll IIWI~.ot< \ , . llllt"tlh<>f
:
I 4
DosiQil Anolvll
II lfmn ''' 1"1'"., '' 1~1'"" ~1 ,, ,.. 1u tf"'

1.61.... '""'" ., ..j ~ >f\lfllt c,.. ('I"\
1114' \ II ,IJ"''" j Nh iU'\\ " -"' .. fi.Aihll '

\httrt"l ; "' ill I ,, n~~:~ ltktl, ..tillII, _., II " I htl ltw~ , Jl.lll.ll
loll tji( II IIIJI'I oll~ l I\ olll .alttlli<oll .. lfl ,,. l'mloltl'lr .!
I \t.lo"r'i,llnlh~o~ \\1 '"'"'""' '' ~iUtl'fll~ll..._ I \ u ""
,.,..,, .t l "
Ponorn Plot Clod Mon~l~
PRINCESS WITH GATHERED

PANELS
111.- anck 1tiMh han or\.a.ttr "'1hn ~""on

lhr drtlt;n a...rt n..h W\ tc:on tuc ll.if' nq
1\
I 4
fr.'()N1
Foundolkln2
fOJr !>
f( .,..., ,..,, _,., '' \lttf lht u"ttIIH' ,(llhk J'llft 11'1 Jotlfo"'
' .1..
lhr
f'llrlt'"' flo>C ,..,.J m.mlf'.... II

Trr tht holfll tlt'l-"' .u~J dr.a- th~ l'l.l\1
tt h1~ht"t.al'll\'l" OUl~ll"''.. l'o\ t,_r~l
.H\
h.arhlt'r ttw ,utllllUt J['llklilll.., 1\ll'flli UI
1116111\h In lrufll '" h ddn ,.._, .an I 11

O r.I"' tht )U oll'tlt'\\ ' ' ' II tl IW I \CIIU fl'll I It'll\ 1 "lllt'll
I I{JI.JIH 2
MJr'- nntciW' llnd'K"\ !.lp ""' """'" lrmu hlt\t
KllhhUIIt' ;1111'' 1"-'f

c Ill I IHIIU)th ..... h ~ I thll'' ''"' l'''h Ill
,\ll)tll th ~ W'wlltt wllh thr ,.,,,, ,tl ttuklt lltu
)le,IW 11 Hflh 11l
JWIn I
( 1.11 lh_. jlfill'\\ !Yittln\ h11nt jiJjWI
' I
I )'.II'J 4
\ ph'dl l 11t\ h
l 116 ~
WH\ull I !Udtto.. IIIN'IIIIIh
,_,)~\\1
.1ml "' tilt'

ho~u till' ~utllnt ,,, th p.tlh m .rnol mML tht
\<111Wf11 ol t'-'i h \41 tlll
Ill\' ;tukll'lhW h lh1 \lt,tl)llll ~111lll olf .I 1111\ Ill Alii

Iiiii' <<Ill lilt' olt ..WII Ill Ill I .Pi Ill< h llt>W j'fll1\!"
\t'.lllll h1\' II hiAI "'"'"""' h 1111,,
I ~ ~ It
\t.u~ I I ' 1111 h
..
uut iiUill tlil' ' "'''
'""111111 '"nltllt
,,.,\,.,
1)114nl
to
'"''w
Urw 'hit ll'ltln)l H ' ""' tJf tht
lltw tltl .:rtnlltH '''-'lkhl ,., utttlw hilt\
',o I'
I"'
till , I 11(1111'\ l .fit~ I ' lo o1 lho '"-'I~" \IOAo,l
lotllull
tlu \
Hlh
1"'"~ ,hml>f ' f.tlh ,_.t IYo~ 11 ,..,...
\ltt-~1Ill
1111~ft.!IIU
''""''""'''
h''"""' h
..... ,,, h.,.... ''"' lloh ~ I
...
,._.,1\
'' .ut~ltll' .." '"" '" ,, "'~"' "''' n ... ' "' ' '
\Uh h"l.ltl>l j<!hlnl hlh lu \.tnl(
CllOI)I~ 10
, I0
PRINCESS TORSO FOUNDATION
BRA-TOP TORSO
FOUNDATION
lr *.x" ,.., "' 'rt' rh. ""' ""' (ld.lr "'"...,.' ltl"'" t
f'k4 ,.,., """""'',_""~
,._,n,.,
SM OOQe1 4 I.l-416
~~ fCIOf'oe ond
bOf'o"'Q c;MOiC:ft
,..
f.IQUJe 1
,, )YIN iltr ,Jtof N\~11( fhr- nltlf<llilt t'llill plffml full<t.~~ dllt
.f\otlli'nt p#tlf ..m-.J lfll(of\IN~IIriiH
1~ tht froon1 Jind ~~ l+lnQ.lnd d'"" l'lu\l.ltt

tl lf'k"MI .1100'\Y .lttd ~ ~\I
lr.aru.tcr (l"'ftiOUI cu.Jdnw~ 4 \ . .ami 0
flvtll
+fr"""
lt~~ lh< fmm ''"'"'' ~+n.J.Jttun and d, ..,.. 1~

at~ 1\ llldM"I.IItiO\(" and bttc.,.... llu\.1
C(W'In1 (l'W'It.-,;r ,;Lu&tl.I'IC"'

\tML 1 ! 1nch ~-.: the tou~t .tnJ iliJ.,., NJ
~kllflf'
()fpo tlw" tcJMO
..........,
\1:\kttnt ..~ Uhi\1Uin.l
ltinUn
Uf ..,.
---
Thr hN .,.,AI.s.l t.1.ln 6 tl'll{ft'-'wJ CO .1M->fb the'
B<olop
<;g.r 2 80C'
Or,.... "' hnt' ~wn tht ""'' d,lru

\Ufl the t\.C't" ntt.kh d-art 001 rrom thr Itnot \t
chc m~k<o~ lin.:-. nuJ~ 1 x +nth
("..(lflnt"\.""t the' dJ.n kTo tl ~t.lb4t\h tht' rrtn<f"\'
luw. Cut.uxl ~r.ltt plUffl1'
.-
. r
f9"'2
rtt\: ;md Jdd ~n,,.
'-ll<l )0
lopl)rO
$'H)OfOiftd po1ttrn
"' ~2,,.
_.;
...,
llt.a" .a hn<' h-.:t~~n tht tv.1l datn.

\l;ut. th.._ c-u<"1.1. uf t.Kh d.ltt ,.,.,., frt~m tht- lim \t
lht ,u.. plt''' lln1., fUJr\. ilK In<~. h.
(Annen th'-' cLut lt'K' td C"\l.lhli'h Ih, prmtt'' 11 nt
(. Ul
c:=D
.and WJ'I.IIJI\' l~ll('tm
fQn)
\b\h tt~Mn thl- blat f""-l'! 10 Ydr &,r. p.

(.]fftc: ~ dltt ~ dlit C--ol IIC(,lr!.
,.,....n_
t.:low lhC' ((Jitt't ltOI'It dat1 md l2W
f!CJVIG I
CD
Bollombro
""
......, ..
JtnrtO\t" II IZ+I'k hi tJiw lhl'n I)M" UIS( \C.un

lbt lu"' """'dArt .lkc>fb\ .all .11nd tulf the("'''"~
oltM wu.nd c.btt \IJifl. d.art tnt.alr nn thC' llrlt
d.ln kx ot the- f"'ll'k't"\' hnn
(lit tht f'-61h:tn '""" 1\oll'lff ..OIJ "l'..., ..,~ u..
t uc bf.ll ~m fwrn the palt<'m

t-l<l<\4:: ,j,ut\ ..btn,. and ~lc:M th~ br~ ~nd .ldd
I/-& lll\h hlf undl'n:uppon .tnd bi<Cnd.
f<O ' '.a
""
'- an4 h (_ (11\fW<'I
f'IIO\('\\ J'll""'l\
F-3o.b
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..... 1
U'lf'III~U CUkkllt"M'\ -4
~~+'"'"' xu~lint"\
t r
'"'
'
\
...........
.
__,
. - r-1
..
p""""" ""....,
\tfw"
fJI'dkt..,,. JA.~nd\ .tnd kl 'llf"m'
L._J
D.~
.b
STRAPUSS FOJNOAliOit At-40 1Nl:PCONS1'AUCOON

Comple~g
t tw prhlH' l\ lt" o 1\ !In (':O.JiliJ,It uf undtr

('flllHV
~liJJIM'III (hht>r ,,amJ~It~ for bo ning
,,-d
rne Poltorns
AQI.I!O
,,1 ..nd ,111111 il>L.irl ntiC Inc h~tl-1.1!
(Ut....._......:.,,.,
\,lli.lli(lfl\ {,111 II(' u"('d
".ljlll' l(lU IU.I>~IIc'J!\
t~.., 1/te tMt lit
.. """'
,""-.
,H('
lh(' htdti\'1,
('()r:\('1('1 ,
SIIOIS Afovnd thO Bust AIOO, Of 0 Fotllng Awoy ~W90n the 8UI1$
;and
ln<hKI<I.
fi\
,.14---<lltt fm Jitlntt .lud lllinln;:
...
..............
I
-
BuS! Too
fii()N!
'"'
..
....
FITTING PROBLEMS
AND SOLUTIONS
to fll tht nntJur oltlw bmt rl-1
f>Qt.ll~
c,t,,.,,
ntilrlc.- w lit ~:omwtt.alll' ,~ uw

.u.:.a """
out h;,,ms:tht ltntrr (runt of tht- Ao'trtiC"Ilt 1;.11.~<~) .
A I*' fit 1 ~ often thf' rMt.Jtt c,f lnmllttlc-nt hv\t '"I'
10001. t..a,)t' <llkl"'-'tKt' ;unur\d lh<' ,~t.mn4nt ~ ..n .ahn
Goodltl/
cauw filling probtcm1.

If )'OU \\fill (Q iJdcJ
~~,t.:i\
... ..
ttn trr.lf~ "f~UifltllnJC pruhttm\ fnf tht" ~u.-rn
ma.l.tc. A ~1100 lit.allrw.\ lht' 1'1.1\1 <UJ) tf tlw ,~t.mnt'm

10 fit liM" ~OniOUI tJf Ilk t"nl "'rlhlllil ,H,...~, .II"" Ill\'
f'rtB '" .Ill ~ <'ft\1.~

~~ tlwopm 'PlCt Jlft4 ('(lftft1
tbtp.tU:m.
1.01o- 10< tho Bust Cup
...
(i;anMtll~ ~1ltl.l
"91~2cb
Jttok.aw '!o01<hn 0\'(t lhf' b.n.t
~'
t3
-Jc.D
~loti~ 0\'W !h.t hilL

~ fJcom ~ ~ si& .and ..., C'e'fto
IU tr,W~.L 1"t..c ~ wJII fdl
ttl.~ TIJ"tiCIOn ~ etr.nurt
\\"ruc.alo- hc11:1:\;Ciul ~'\"

G:wra'l i.ht' f'lCC'Itl" md r'\11_
...
Tighi/ LOOSO AIOUnd Wolsl Ond/OIIhG 8usl AIOO
lfllt'IVI'O\IItH:IItln Ill lht

~U.apf('\\ f<M.Ind,HIQI1, ~ fl;l~t'\ -41 7 I IK fill lmlm
lion. \ cllmtnactt'\1 \tr.llplt"'\\ ''''' \hllultlt,. flth..-1 on

the. form "''" ~llotf~ \hr-.lll~" IA"Iu\tnt\l I\
JinnC'd J l lht \ide \Q;ffi\ ' " t tht unit r )IJ(~
~~.!,:,.
t'
~...lt'-~t\(l'll<llthc.,.UI~"bnr
!::.IN"< pn. lftr.l'<.i~ .lnJ o.tudL
t .-.~ bJ."' ~J\ It\,._ N-t :0.\'t
l":.n &n;.11'\ ~ :, h. '"'""'" !...11\'fTl'
>;ht ~ol'< ~;anJ ~ lh
Good Fn
ftgure l
11~ C\tjJ\ ftt IU lht' C'Uii1f1Ul c,f lh11 ltt,n.t Wllh<~ll \lit'\\
1 ht M1~1'1~'~11~k"' n.ot f.dl-y ' 1 nl'fl nr
l.,.... l'n tn ~.lrllo'4,1,1'lt ~

,
"h , \11'""-1
f'#'( n\.,
4 14
ChCIPI(M 19
Unlng. Boning. cOd Cle5ure
UNDERSUPPORT FOR STRAPLESS GARMENTS

f'U('m',... scu.rl,-0\~ ck't~m ..1n tltt tt.~m ftlf tk'\,.~f'M''.It hlt\tlo~~. ifi.Jt, umhfUnln r.:,. l!nln~. o11KI hu~t tnho n<'C"nw:n11..,.11('ftu " kol t ltM urlllkt\Uf"'M,rt th~t h l'fiWJ'IfiJH ful the tnl1 u~ ()l lhC' <k"\tjtll. A tHJinbCf ol ~lflf'll<'>
;and t.l!l'>l..n .,.,,. lhh" .and ~h(ltllcl
l1t ~utlld('fll tl' nwnplt1t' t tH' ck...IJ,:rl
Types ol Bonng
UghtweiQhl lnte~constructiOn
l_.g.hl""l'lt:hl lnt('K'OI'I\U\k"'ll'" \.h<IU!\1 I)(' \\011\fd
ftt'd ((If ~(ftl tNt Nw
kwl. '~ lithe t.tlw-k
n tkfjalt (.o\1 cn o~lvt bt .t f.-ctul few thl'\'nl: k'\'
(tln1<1N(1lf't Tbuup('Ptt ""'' uw.:ludt bronltl.l: l.k
l~ .and .tim~ .nd
n'IUltnJ.I U'llctnotl~nK
tio)f'ltu"'*' (If ndflf~..
'"It
"'*'"
rXwk
tott'lft tkl
on:J.t"-1\. 1 d'll"-~t.ht ("PI.ton
<and l"-llltlliC' loe.akd to bonm~ .n '~'.,:tOO \olm

,., Bu\C 11'1(11 \,.,., ~\'C' lr..flOb\ 011 ~~.and
mct.al t.)(llj"" (llf'l tho[ odlC'r T\111("1.. noutO'f\ ~tf<l~ht
huw r'll,
~HI~ht bou\C tbl; ;ukl ~-1-hpcd
hu\(. \lllll"'lf1' bckntln.al .llt.l. ltK'\1 pnn~ril) 111
l~elln~;,
\'\'~1
\tu.t :""~ ""'II~
n' ~'~~"'''"'
,.,,. 1u~,~
~~-~~ <In~
J ~l kf COl.
I nc.a\C'\1 bonln~ h
('U\
tu "~<'*m ln'IK\h t ll Reo
I'I'WJ\'f' bcw'IUIIt llll!.l tllnt I rZ.II~h lfC>In tah
t'fl4
Sll, ttl(-"""''~ ~nto th<' ("'"1\J tZI toW tlw mcb

unde-r nd \tlt(h ttlht ~"' t h .
C:t1Utl ~kM II'"' tt~: ~m nd \tl\(h throudt
tt..: (ttU~t
l\0\ Hw hlut~ttd C'IJ1:'C" f('Jf JlCU'
...
,.,.,,u
\ciH h C'Of'M'
nW"1'1
iidr c" tl'k \C..m
.llt!Yft.II'IC:'t' 10 tho
lc.Mmln~ .a <.1\11'1~ f.'lf the:
bon"'-
~C
\llt(h
"'"""' 1/" lnt;h hum Ihe' t'lp h, \ltop thc: btonlnx

~llll t~ bonlnjC tntu tht" ca~nJL .and \tlt~h l -4
tn<h ""-ttl\\ tht bottC"Onl 1'11
fl(pO I ( ..8)
f"''''"'
M f)\\' \C'Jil\
C,l'\('t
.11~ ulrn 11~ within Hit inch ~
Ilk' 'K'ollll (6l
~ nd \lil.g't' CMIIJllk"'
t1.K\" bc>nlllR ' llU)t
1\l ltM:
WJ!U lh
t o ld w .1tn m .:r nd \ tltd \ with J Jilll't' ltl(IC ~;:l()W
tc'l th.: l'CIII,t' 41f lhl' l1onln~ \S).
f.abti4.
~tm, '"u~1)' lllt>!l\tr~1th\ I pn..,hru lll Unt tl 01
Ill
foi<!-(>.19< Seam Boning
"'"''.t'' ,_.
m<dhun~cight ' ' " ' ' ' tlrtll. l"''lhn, V~tlsthl\
131
Ill
1'1
h~,a\'\ \olliR hH~
c'
Ul')l((rl/nlll( -d! JII'Jih .(' '"'''"' /111r1t lu1111!( tJihl '''"
W'olm "I tl~t uJJ.tfflU('I""' th.JI ''"'n It hhfl< wnnl

Mt 0 1 J hk>nd fnnt ln\ thJ n ~)..~ IJ, wtttn II AI\
ncl. c)l b.tti~u
t im,rt-"(tll'l\ t.m "''~~~" ' ....hnc '"~~n hkntl \
,,It
C111na wll., dd~;n t ..hfu
&~ f"''Mm.~-tW o1 ' '"" ''"'/)t '"til "''\' J"t~"
m..r.fll k-d I_,!tin~ 2 ttl l pl tn n l .t \IIU IJII

rk' (t..n\'Ol\ ,., llti1V11n 11n.:n1
lhKI.,
( ''~'"" llbiMIl b J 1"'111 rl ' 4 lfU h lot hulol t 'it'
.at,,.,. lnp tl
~lf.ll>ll-t.\ ,;..trmr u l\1,
'l'.idt S.:::lf";IJII1 Ul'

thot ~1\t
-161
clrM limn
('l.l(fl{
\ 4 111 1 1hc h
ICIIol'C Ufl' t ft f ~ I PI'I tol . t
~ p~ntrn~atUKbtn~
*'~ .,_
llW' tUli\U.-tk~o~t .Ill(' C'"lnl>k'l , .. \ol~ QC Uw UI1<1U\
w "-<'
at~ ~lh
"'*)"' 'oc W<"Unn~ ht>llln~ "' ti\C' ~rf'l'll.'nt
~~~ ~')IU"'n lit.
The conlUUc11(1n I) t.u~C'Inl tlf \U;tpk\\ lk\IJtm

....,m ha\' bu dmc.and 01 multpk'
r.abnctdril(l(f' . lt"lht'fl. .and pkiltt 1 .-nd lor
th('>
"'''""'""'ln"f,..,l
d~nnt't
fl(pel (l -5)
"'*
Heavy-Weight lnterconstruchon
ltf'fli,;\
f,,.,!11hltl"t--IN 1\1"' I"
~~tr.n'
ln~rH;.IIn.,
lll~~hJotnn\l'h
Woys '0 1nwrt Boning
h11D upr
JtmJ.I.
"~ 1~1
IKIM'I1 I U.
loni4 Clf'U'O'N'I
IJ.nttt~ rlhll'l tlkn6l. C:hn\1 ''!L taiL
fubir (II' ntlf'fu\oltlk ,ntcfl~lnll:
1\tonlriA 1tnn Ide\ II Ught"-'t't~ln, \l..tkColl (li1 11lt' d~t

'''f'f"Ofh tht ~tttK'111 It'"'"~ from firm.~. or
wd~ pb\lk u lk'd ttl~ik'nt' ( fk::..1bk roil Yl'itt'
blonu\jl! mth Ul''' rZJ; flhtbk "tttl ~U\~ 11 ;and U;
lilt' lfiJI(IM InK ln~l mctMf'l\ ilh.l\lllt UI~N\ """' ., tol ;tlt.M.hln I
I (2 In<h
11\ll) I'll: .,., l;,k h>l ' 1"-'t"1
I tl4' \4; It :::whcmnt. lkonlnt: \liM
''"
04 to
If h I\
"tn uthtt than a
, : :..
alft<\1 b\ tht '"'4th tbc'
'-AIIIJ'k' llhl\ltt..- "tm\llt"l, t-l.ttht)' tan fl'l"h tn
llw
thto butoe, oe
tflf l..Kint.
..uttd 1 mmc and II "*~ '\~on tht
l'nX'td-wn
1:01
.,_,m p~u~
...
..,..,.17)
"'""'"' ' C
Prt 'l l'f uh'fl Sllnpk ,.,., I~ a11f ,,r1' for n,,, Undhf\UPr>f.>tl
~~~-,.,..IIOIII>()i'.l\1
I IW ttint t'\\ ltof\,. h II H I '"""'H~ 1"1 ...... l>llo!~llt.llt\lllt<~lofl H ,, 1 U10

mlo,rn.,n.... u u tr pplw..t '"
tol h o I htfl llll~lltll\ ~nt l olt 'IIIII jMll t 1111 ._,.lUI( "II hit l!tluU Jft '"''~'
1
<lllll ht I'' flu ,..,., I """''"''"
\o'o jl.tKt'\ ' ' ' l l ht<IIOO!III t tt111\IIU4Iti>ll
,,,
1 k\lng O' 'ld UOdOtlining l"oltOU\1
fj,,,, '"'''''fof.\tlflll<l ''"'"'f~fiiHII\ ,,..,
( 1.11111
In l ht ""' ... ~ h tutl! "' "' .,,..,...,. 1<4 ltllha
.iot l jll\tll llllh
r"''" 1 h~ c
lht lh\1
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4..,
It ""1''h"l
v.-,
,,.
--
....,.
Ad I
~7-"MJ l " R11 an rokb w.lt ~ t!W tVOI .....S

f'lnrl " atiiM u ~ or f*Ullt:l m.t wCU
wn.- \ an ~ b 1br dniCft P,_.,..
.A\ baw
v"'
~~. b
I
.u m
h t ' '
.t it '
" wn "''' \ltk \Il l ~n lltt ri~ht
\kit ul lit Jt.Htllllll llw '"'.um
.1 ft'
IUhtllltU\ f,lll\ 111111) oll t' lll lllw~ l , l t llh'lt'd CJ\'tf I IW
,Inti
tti K~' \IIIt
It td It I I II\ Jtllltllt'Ill,
I h t ti h hur1\ Jill' 1 11\ h iJt 1+11 llw lll"'tllun I !Itt
hn11l111( llt!IIJn ' "1'1'1111 h tltdtrutl, d utU. u1.u l:

lllltl \llh h tlhltCJII\ otl l hr' lo(' ltM.ltlutl\,
( HIIIJJittl t Ill\' )tjll lltt>lll wit h d llii iii K lit lht ~Ill If
lu t Klfllllllttl \ lfMJtt' INI, f)l h u ' t I JI.I)W 1 2 ~.
.....
lhC' bttfk ut
tdofm
tw- ~ u , ..oe
Po<I<IOd OrO
ftgtu J
utiKilllll jl,ll h'fl l 11111"-'1"''1

lr.ut l it lit I' tt mli rl h~t\1 .. n',l +IIIII .' lnt h t l \\ ltt
!MIll\\ 1111 h,u l. fl.! II I ll\ jl ll oltln l \4.'l. IIUf\\t
1'1 IH ' Ill!'
( u t 1111111 Ill IMIWI
f'tlrl
'
f "
I IJt!ill ,lltJ
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'
~.-ta&ltw ~I"
1:111Qmt
n "-Jla'
.. n.
1 ,,."' .tl.ll,\uit" "--,., -.JT.,wrllfl,_

JNJTJ
1,
I'"'" ''"' In
111 tlltt llnn .ntd hh uu w, l I wll hl u 1/K hit h

\n I IKIUI ' !~1
\~'dill,
Booing on lhO Righi SICIO OllhO Gormonl
k11
....
C'h-10'fl 10
~
f!Qll6 &
fll~hl '''""' 1\.iwlhlll\ \111,11\"t "' t~h "'~111 .ami tlll\ hcl1l I .a t<l l 2 Ilkh h"m dwteop .lftdb(U>lft ,,. 1~
~olfnl~"tn \ I :2-11~ h
~h..,Ct.)if\
t~~; 1\k l.('d .._~.-h.,._,. tr.nn l"MI Jonr, I "'tnc:bt.roo:lk'tYoftTI
1\;I,IW'I'\.. \nut he \\ ' "''"" I\ \lkl'l l.t.lt-d ~n l""'lo:.,.. .&!0, I r;ut\ I '
''idt
I'\'Oj)OI1nQ me~ 10<.,. 810 Cup
t-'."''" '"-"
1 ttt \ ''"' \ n...._h huuln.: ""' t.h'WO:'U\\CV Inc tho: tid\1

1~
-..lOIII( 1'\ ~ttthl~ trom w;k "'""' dlilt"lltd'\ ('1\"n t.hr

and\~~~~
hu\1 I~\ tl\11: ph~\\\ "f.llft lut \C>f1>l "hk\ tt.,ttet. ~>Jt-.dt\ .a..pr
l'li.IIIIJft~ j., ('\1\. t'lolk-.lthn"' '" tht 1\.ahl \'ftdoll ~~ ho'l\~ the I onn liN'
rn"'d
'OftS
t..1'1(''-"~ thc' .._. I ~ ~ nc on ~b"'"'"'"~ , .............

l \It ll'tc UNa~ lno.hn .. ;t\ 11'\h<'\.
....,.
Tar-"tlt,b I 4--t!'kb """" l(rt-.,llh tht<lUCh tht
l'llo.Y thfo m
r.attmh
.wt cht p.ao.M n"
.anJ t.l.ll
\IJif\. nu~..!W'l. t.t .....~II' .. \ol:llh.
.......
JooiW'9 810 ~
}An d 'lt' ~ ('l!t:n ~ ltm.J~h.anc ut

tn.lo."htn(,th,ft or'-' .:. .,.~ lt.:t1t'lc-r
llnod Of Ununed
\ hnu~'-""'" t\'l'l' mJ
~
lo~
.-m "' t""
t
FoQV<O 7
('\ '(I
HI ~1ld l ll,lt IIUt,:l) 10 lh\" ~.tntl~ lll , I ht~h fJ<Hil
lhl' wp. l' ln ' '-' hoM.
l_
\lih h .-wu m l thl Vl.lll'l t'Cijot~:' to )1,_"\"\lrt' J>3(1ctlng,

IU 1Uttlt' ljot.tffllt'l11,
',
f.l"' .....
thf r.aw ~, ,-c ~""'~"

un.kN.IJ"f'' lt
51RAPl~ JOUNDAnot~ ANO 1N1RCQNSTRUC1lON
421
BUSTIER, CORSELET, AND WASPIE FOUNDATIONS

rllol' bu\.IIU /Wrwk'C ;lllld Wil\~~.' ol lhi; l l'llllh, I t
1-ha t'l\'d tt~ h u nun hod) ' 1111it th ' ~'11W..Ubk v. htm\
;~l'td t l\ hC.I(t It'\ o f I It~. cly tt(-\1\,1 j)lnjt "'nNI fCi rk'f\1\
"''"(' h" llt lnto tiW' '"-'lk'f /(\"~1t1 tn ml n tmlrt tiM:
,.,;a.,\t a fld """"'"~ thC" '"'" \t't 111.'"~ " '"41tt t01
8Y$tler Wilt\ ShouiOet Sttoe

M~>t tht \\npk ~"1ttlnt 1 to 1 1/Z tndwos
;~hc'Yo.t
~'IOlm Clllllrk-tt tht- piCJtllnJ: 1M ~ll'lt

tun' C~ \idto ~rt. an,J d4 Wllm 'l-
W)\
1-'
uncknuppnn lnhwm1tkw1
11\fo frK11ldatlon (\all tlll' un bC' atll'h_
"\l te>1 l"triod, t lw" turo~l, OJIKI tUI K"\' ctto".h,unn 1 M ~"kf f~t
n \0111!1\ .a (;HhklOaltko itt-11\ tl('( .. \t\t of lh 'ot-duc-UH
OII'Pf'.ll
l\lf'UUI ~ti.,.Uit" .ll(' h\ bt'nl Of the' l:ou'<.lk>l h
Ut IIIU" flltrd \ P'~ ~ 24 tl ll\1'-l.,. .U~
Ullt dn.l~ r \IW'!UkJ """n in <M!U I~It IC'f thl'
t.tnd ol W fp:Mt t N t l\ f'-')YII nl tt (l'Wtll"ktt tht dit-
,..,,.n
"'
Yln 11.1\lt w t"rfln r.:-.M-1) .. ,. U\C'
r w;t'CU .n~ Nkd on tht ~wntuuJ tor110 r.at ~n
f<l<lncloljOn
rht bu'''~' fwO(Ut kW\ u n bit d t('' \.C'd up or do'Wl'l

~om .1\ ,. wp;u,.tt'. tllf tk\l.ftnonl ~-1th" ' \Jit or p.a.nt
Sttopless Bushet
Mot the ,,,..~ \t\ ldtn< 1 ro 11 : .,...bf1. ~"

llu\t fii.Ull (..(1Ct1(*tt the pk>Ctli\C .aod ~f,I.IC' ro-tlt'tft"' ( -kri< """' d.vt lion.!
'-('lJI'I...
....w
I,
Coolrolhng Eo"'
F'OJ'& l2
t~iJI 01 ,,~n l ' lh !nth AbnH th~

\IIIChhnt" of tflt- \U.tpi<M.\ lhp, \l,llrU tlg ~ ~ th!. U'll
Itt b.ad to lht \Mil' t.o:...m
Slitch
flc~(J 1/"-hlCh
t'ol\ol'
pnntt"\\ line> and I
hMYI tht ~ltlt \C'.Im ltJ tt\1

Ill thf' unt t-1 , , ,.,,
)I In<h
lltptlt t.tn thf'(lthorr "ck en

k~~ '''P "" lht fliNt<'
http.,._,,.,,. ttw "'-'fl'"
1nm tht ,uplt1'
t O(M. '" "'llh :n 1 4 tnt h ,,(

tht x~m .11I<M4rlel' hoJh ''' UH' ro.l(ht \ldl: Afll.l
UndtH!Il<h
5ecu~tng 11w1 WoOillt>O
fogy< 13
rut Jt'"Qm r~t.t.n ht I'Lt"k n l " ' 1 4 mch
..-g, '"
-.~ tfl<l~
r.1 4ot tl~ r.."'"n It
'''* ....
, "of\'' ., ttAk~
"W hr Hl~ 10 '"'It of 1W()
l .f~) 1 hl< h Of t ht \ \'dht lt\~.l\\IICIIl!UI, (Cnt Cf

.uul toltlr. J)tO!lOUIOnlllt'l)' l(l " 'ab.lllnt- st:an u
.tnd '"'"1\' !1\ with t hc liPI"'' ~am.
2. IJill ""dl CIH.I :tnd \IIIC:h thl hook at'id eytS.

<-tn tc <1 nll t.~ k 1noportlonatcl)' to the
"'hill li t' 'I ht- rl bhon/~lu s tl c i) Jmtled thro-ugh
"\ltlllll Ql)l.'llln,; In thr linin!( ~cum clo~st to
thr IIJ)IK'I
).
Oro:~Of'
t*l.l o(
"""'~' ~Mr ("?.-.
f"" t'
..
complolod Pottorns lor ll'o Buatlo
Comf}tOIOCI Corao~t f ounoouon
11 ,1,k1Ui1m,al IWl~H)! h ah,lu\1 m.uL. llw Jl.-unwnh

,,, lh\ J~ltt'U. \t'l' jUJ:a"Uto h ot !'IIIli~
II '"ltHUt~o!l,il llnllhiJt h
1111111 U" pl..t
mt tl h Ull Il k IUIIItlll '\lo 1'-'11:'' 11\4 lu1 \l!lllo 1
''''il"l,
\lll'llllfl
!.hiM
ln~IIAir l
, , ,.,
\41jll'l"\l~otl\
\h4ol.o,l o\fUI\
'111'1""'
t j,.,,n ,,.,., -,.,. p.i~\' tll loot 1(.11111\llll t' "'''''

liM hi;t, \U' 1\,"ll(t 1}\ hi! htJ'\4 lthUUI.H"fl
...
....
.. . ........
... :>
WOJI)Io F-IIOn
U .-ki!IMift.ll hnnin~~: h ~llf\1, moult I~ \h~n

nolun tl~tt,atlt'ill ' 1'-'Jt.C" .. ,, I;-' ~tultk-
j-..;- dl.tflt~ U\h'JI: ,.,Ill\~"\\ lhH"\ VI \t Jt.ll ...h,JU\to ,.W.tk n.al p.atWh loJor bOiftlftC .M ...,.,,.Mcd
lth "'.1\llk h lntlutl~ lt .. l.l\4.' it "''"lwiJ" lfl f11'11>1 .a\Ut" ltw t.-,1
toJ ~ JXtUA& 'lk ._.,
1bc wnpw ua
tJw 111Mfi'W
1\ "'''"' '"~' uUtu lltnn tit' I;,Utlllll: \no pJ~r tt_. tn1 ndnwPPif'lbtric ~ ''" p<Ja..n' ...a
1-KinJt. ~"\ jl~ltt HI
ftMIIotr:".} ~~ 1 (JICrt''-ft011
b+IQC..,-..J9f!ofNovol tJit"""""bCX
Corselet Foundahon
rt1t 'tr"'pln' n'"'~hr..- trn ~"'"' tht" 1111\t <II 111 )U'I ollllo\, t h~ llu\1 lk;lnh Unakr t lw btnt h dO)('I) fit .m d
liUpnl to p.11b lht ltmt' ''"'''lh~"J ml upw~td l't.M lhr 1uund.11iu11 c ut l ulm IIIAIW:. u .~t,J)'" d' ' '" Jl. 4lJ
hll I Ul'ti jlktt"\llll\lntl..l"'" and ulhtf lllhlfl1\,lftltU I,,,, ttlll' jl.fnth ollld lll,l\\ \l)'k ,,,.., ' ''\t:m~nh ol l \.' ~h()Wll
CM It) t ho itt ur li<'\l!ll+ 1\.ic:l. l.itlll,Jt ill\UU( lit)!\\ .111 ~II JMKl' l lol
""
,....,.,
Coml)lotod PoHomslo< BustiOI with S11ops
,..,.,,
Ia lOOt<
"'
I 10 I
'"..
....
Il
(I
lli"
i, I.JO' ..
ou
BUSC CLOSURE
GROMMETS AND LACING
llttnrf' II.Mhm.: the 1'1\tow; the .urnnu. .!-tKh
l<IU .., I'IC't'd cho: ~

,t ...~,.- ~ .a vrull Non
mer t"'*" lk' J"' "Kh onJ "'' ul
tkf "''"
on an"" ~ Yo.lilt: n\kon"' t..1thrl lb<~"'"
~ldt lh'n~-n t.afl\ol\
,,"("f(1
\IK'U\d l'l:
.11'1-ht~
to tlw &.II
\t.k (oft th(' \HI'Dft ll\k' 'I tl'k dl"ll\ l.t.lIM.-
~.... flf ~oNt~~:..
R>gnl Side ClosutO

fo,teJIO.b
t ut.l !U"-.h.. ~ wh-t.-.u( h kn~o.-th ... tht lfft
IC"\ ~ ('141 lht J::J.fmtJ\1
Foclng
~
l'b.t thor t~r on ttw l.kL!\1: o~t.._na.t " I~
1Qb.C:
l ut I.-me ! hJ 2 I ! lnc:hotfo "'lolk

~ .. run.on ,,.n,.u or (\fUI\J~knt ntnt;)(lng
on "r<lf'l$. .,kJt1. ltl\cr th< n>mpltt:~ l.kll.g: or
....,.,.
tn
the'~ fk~IN
lot"
~romnn:~. ,1..~ t~n
lnif\C'\1;:\ .lfii.IJ-.;"'tlm.if\. Cokh <LlrthJO.UIY 1.11
M.a the"" t\"Ont ulk ol Uw I;Kmt ('f\ C'\l.l~ t.'ltht

n~tu \t'lk tl tiK d.,.""\i~tn \tttth .a l +m,h '<".1m
111 '".lth Ill t>rc'Uinl( o~nol ~l.\Uh;h 1t1 'Ut.-:
In
~"'
... t'lft dr\~n f.llk
~ thane>
Y~ith ~ht ~.do

h~IO'"thcr .tnd \tlh;h tO tht' ~fnlC'IU lh):Un!' lbl
\lih.holl 4-lnth'(".am.o~ndf'l~')tht~oamotlt'n.
turn .and \Utth J J'SIrn:h W.lm c:h.lnnd for
bt>Om~ \tu.. h ;moch.-r nm to thC' wKIIh or thl!'
~~"'"
lum '"'" w.un unJ,r Jnd t~~t'~tlt'"h ( Fi.gur~ 1(),
l eMSide CIOSlHO
f qJret 2<1 r
f'S.I(~ ' Z.inthY~k11: lllm ...-.n ''"' ~) '~" lhr \\nn-.:
Molkk\Q Grommet Plocements
th.umrk II hCUft ltt
f"
II ho~mmrr ,lfltl r\tltt hr1h ("Uilfh hill t.Ul

UrOI,'!;I' lh,. l)t'f\ ll th,. f,dJftt , fiKhl \hit
f {Iff u
l'u~ 11 rOU(h Ill(''"' If h nl tum th" ,.;.um('fU

(l\1't \rl r)'rit... '""'I hi' IIIII'.. !!Ifill I ht t"\tk l\
W\I'PfCO.Witl~f\11: ltriJ"'UIIIIIrnW'IIIIIth lo1
bbrk I
p lht
''
'"'"''''I
I ' mafKh
,.,,!):
Anoen.no tno Grommoll

0
\ld, (J( lh\' lh'\IKI\CI\ t\ II \ ld\'. \I,Ul.. l1Wh 1\l.k"c

nwnh tel n)ll\ \J\llthl hUh th\
Uw .m ,11\'l ll I 1'''" "' 1~1WIIollt' thl\~h th\
t.-hel, H !ji;\m' 2dl,
'tltlh t,ldtl)t 111 tht ,,.IUt 1 11\"lflt .u'tll P"'"\ .....-o~m
(ll)('ll hltll ,..,,._ .And \Uhh I 1\ h)l.h '"'"''" til\'
ha.nl. t'b\l" ""' J..n,b
1$-llnl tlw ht,lt hut
(I IJ:\11\' JC"I
'-'''J'"'
~ 2d
I) ...Olio\'I'll fbt .Uid llltl. thC' gJn\l'n('l\ I to 2 illdt("';

o~~p.an thl{'m: 24h. Rl..1l1Cdl t'(IU..&II)' Ofl th\Othcl ~i<k ;)nod
~~~nu thn11.111h tht f.lbrl<. lmcrtfng boning through
lrd (hrt trf'h w ' ' In 1111
>
I tt~ur\' ltH
fir~ '(",.lln tl'l"">ll Tum olrM.1 'ltp thlf ,Lt,(' IDh'
dCh ~'11C'ntn~ l w tht .1111'1'""' ''"-"" '-' '"t'h (1\~
10 th~ mcul\ (\'~"'" lt'lt!t , ...... wJm '""~' .1n..t
tllt~h 111):\lff' ' ''
l 'ld UW Mhtl\ ,,,,,, ;Hl\IIV.t\11 lth l..n-1" lh'''-'.:.h

IIU' lt;:lk' "lh h y, lth th, lll'l"lo."l h"to..e '~'"': h' th\
nwtl'" ,,~.,.:, I .~M th\ 1.1" W.lltl '" tlh 1.1., ~~ .llhl
t-d~, tlll\h aU,(\11\ 'H.
.......
INTRODUCTION
Pattern making
for Bias-Cut
Dresses
IN'T~1'10N
NA.tuiPE Of liAS-CUI fAMIC
Mnt1N'.\UlNG fOit I&AKU1 GARMHIS
lWO MTMCX)S fOit ll'fOIJICfG liAS S!'WTCH
Mlll'IC SUGGSllONS rot II&A.S<UI
~
flJI DfM.SS WflH A SlMY Sd't
TW1$1' l(l()C( WI'04 A ~ICY SOt'f
AU4N<>Nl IIASOA'ESSU
DlSIGttVAmAOON$
111
427
421
421
m
428
.t34
437
430
lk'fOf'l.'
l h~ ~h~nl (~f
hi.-\.C:UI dth~ f~\hiUft ~l
11t1:1W\ rnluin:d l h (' uw of ~1!.1)\-,. In h.Hflt"!o\ thor
bod) llwn_ ttw
~tt ck"'t~ntr
\l.lol.klc-tn.: \ tonnct
" t\klkl of b\hKJn. utJ1ed

bi.-'Ktlt dt(\W'\ th.ll tk1n tnt!~ no~turill wn~ f thcI!Jl'.nt 1\~ tht tliJ.' I\"II h~ln, tht tup to~~~ hiMI\. lbrn
~\-tc MmW'\1 "' tl~- htmlint. lht' bt"u'' rll tllC' bU\
drm "'"'in tht .,.In lui '"'"1t: of tt\ l'lttmllfk "' thrt
bolh """'' ul mot\ilon \-.~nl'l("t'' ~n' l't'vlut_,.
Lr\'d tht 11\ol\ 11\llnk"n "~""" thctc duthn. ;~~nd tlw t~t
dat "~ dt14..11\kd R~ut dft'\C'\ """" ""~' 10 \ohlt
J.nd 1.onum.~~~: tc influt1ln: 6N~rwn t<'!W\ To rtpb
C'"tt ll'IC: n'lll.'ntt nf tht \ ll"M'II\<t klfll... " \'\\ttm Uuot
Mnhu'~' duUtn( .lnd drapmt mu1.1 bt ton~
flK,fi-1 1J7~1. ~Jik'\lthc
NATURE OF BIAS.CUT FABRIC

1. ,.\) bi"' \trttt~., In knth. 1h "''"'h
dl\"~'<'
2. lht' k"t1J:Ih"''"' ,;,~.n ;~nd ~J;rJ.ln run an
C)Jll~ltt' IJ!r('(tklfl\ fnm tht nontt'f t4 tt\1(' t-.1~
J. l i"H: fU'Mil,UJI1 ilhtt\ ~I\' nbl t"l\'\"d ~\ tl(tUh

\ tlw.o f1l1tr\ o f lht kn,tUmt\(' ~r;un &nd 1&11
!llOIC' ('.t\11) ()it tlk b tl!\
TWO METHODS FOR

REDUCING BIAS STRETCH
'l~hodt -Tbc:~'ac..;;~tt c.-. m'>'
tcmmd.:..;...,.'f'dtL~ .-.~!W'l.br~
(Of~
1bt Wp G:etl lllusu:ars >bt ~~

.1.!\d ~ ol tbc Nne;::~'
'kehcld ! -Tbt ~~"Ids ot :ht t.bnc: " ......
3 .,..........
flr\1 .;and t.ht pa:~tem h ~ !'dl.ft chit' ba'l
-..s
f"ltwt'lbM~~ Tht-~~illmu.;a~
thb '7'1\:ttoJ
4. Wlk rc l hC' ttcmgr~ln ;md ltnjtlh"'U<r' ~n
FABRIC SELECTIONS
FOR BIAS.CUT GARMENTS
hUt'N.1. I ~~ UUC' bl~\. t it(' t lft\\f:.I.Jin ut1t

h~n~\ lo fi)C(r
s.
I hl' ll iliUh' (lf bi<tHtll l.llwk l)(n("\ ptohl<m' IN

t ht t)JIIl'IJIIIl,ll..:r \ II ~lllllttlll\ HII o n Uwbla' .,hnuld
hl' ,,.,, ilttl'd w dhllinah 1,"\ t\"'\ to r~J.It~l b) tht \ln1' h
(If tht hll'\ ( h JJth:r 12 ,.ddh" '-4.' ) thh tnt'INt"lU.
\
~
PATIERNM AKING
FOR BIAS-CUT GARMENTS
l)c\1~11\ lh lH ~1\' ~\II lrlt,dh IIU thl' t'IU \ tlf l'-'fltJih
on tht bl"'' .art dl\4.-l*'"'"' ln HH' th.1Jih 1'
l t~llflii.Uitlll (U ih'lll\ lh.U ,In,' l I'W\.fR '' t\4'<' M
tk'\l'hllt biJ\ \.Ill ft..' lin\ Ill\ M
I
'
,..
'
i\frn th(" bl' " " ' \Utttht'\1, II ~~' ntlt rtocum
t'.\:,.lll) t o 11 orl~ml \h iiiW'
J' J
ID
\' " ' "'
h t~tl-1, \"1.11 tho. \
dtl ""''"' lh' ltllljll.l'\1' , .. h.atn\11 1"""'"' ' """'' '' ...
th1' 1kl.jl.l Ill Jt.lll1h'lll '' '''' .,,,1 ~ro,,! ,,tlt~1 ~
_,
t l~ht\\'nsht r;~~~
<"11<
IL.Jt (fli'
l
"1'' dr "''n('
""
bwn bk-'1\b
( h
hi~
\ lt'dmn \\~hi F.1l'of'k'\

"'' 'n-~'>" L ,1'\"f"'
'" "'" '"'~'

( i('Or:o..'\.11C'
...
, ::n;l. h 1..
'
r-,,,~on " " ,. l,-.N t.'f
lh """"' ,,,,
ttu
428
-,
CMOIOI 20
"""""'
SLIP DRESS WITH

A SLINKY SKIRT
L~tgn
lk'fnlll'ln
~m~ h'C
.~ thr ptot~l}l't
lflf
\ddlll""' "tdtll
1\
\lllll.t 1\\'0 o.Otlk\
Uw 11\C' INIIII'fll\ h)l .IKIII\"~ ~and ..
~is;n~ ~uh tllln'tl
,td(~l ~
,,.... \kk
Fvur 3 Gol'*.o 81o$ol)
.ldjU\Itn\"111 .1ftM thC" bl.h hi\ 'iH'"'dM'\1
1 ~J,,J l"tn dr.pn to'('ljtflh .l)(onJ: thC' hcmlinor

tn t'n("lltl~ tht ~tNit"l aln!'l.lfU c-1 ~lff'hh J
00"9"~
Tht dm~ b ~~ t,1 A"\orfftNc' .1 "r
~th(ftd urtdtf tht bu\.1
f'QU!e 2 ero '101) 5upQo!t

\4-a).u;nr thC" b1.1 111\ ;.t hmljllllnt
J11 cb.m t'\.,C'l" undtr u..,. bu\t ~nd HK'C'

r ~lt'rkl thC' \Urt I~ I H h'K h ~"" b\1)4
lltl.~ <un"niii!W'\ Ul""'-"f II)(' bu\.t 'UIJ\. not1.ht\
""'" '"" h
"''h .. rn""n' l!f.l lanllll:
Fo-ePrhc~'
C ~liM> 'ilk' .and "!lttc bu\1. d.lrh.and u.art.
\dd 1/tt Inch .at bu\t rt"nh .aftll df''" out"',.rd
(Un~t tint\
~.ath kW ~'" 1lk tmP'h" \lJ.n ~ rut '"'
t)w UUC' ~ \;iotlht 1\i'lt""n..bUo>n Jof th(dc~n
Fonem PlOt ond MonlpuiCitKM'\

..,_,. I
"HWM """' '"'~ tfk (lliiW ... :(WMII' f"'r.-nt /o,4Yit/ll lhr
ftJlttm fl1t .N -.JWklffrHIIn f ~ Qj
~,
fr<a thl: fronl and tu-.1.. hlflll tour*'.t.ulof'n

Trau1kr n1UOUf J;\llklmn .f ~ . .,, ~nJ ':' 1"'" ..._
Ora." a bu1t Jl\ tl tn~hr\1 ~llo"' ..- and tltiM tht
...,,
.......
....
.......
MN~Uf<' lnMl..t of t.Kh ut. fmnt and b,K\
;\ckl tc~th~t. tlhl\ l lno.h Rttucd

Draw JtUkltlln('\ I~C"I'M't'U "'" 1\\0 d.afl' cndlnJ' i
or monlnCh"' bt~~ tlw "~ht
)1.11u\. ~.mtfounh nl tht' tUI.'.&\IJI('mtnt wt IR"m
c.a~h 'ld..- of lht.' fnlflt ,1nd b,)\ l KUio.ldint"'>
~th..-pnn"l."'o\br,topl -4m~h.lbo1...-bv\tJI\
Contmu.: "'lth 'lnplnJt ltnt'1l0 the unltr ~.. l
..
figure 6 ftont 0"10 8cJ(;I( EfTIPII' SV'Il
\..onne..., ttk from ;aniJ NI.L u)l'lhllf I(U I~hnt..
'
...... ,
,.,.,.,
(\)llllt.'(l h) th\" d/Ht jiOhlh.
I ,.I
718
314
'
' 318
~.. ~ 't(
f
--
I
l
'.
l
"'
_l
-
.. '
PtOPOtlng tor C ulling

FI('JUI98f\)lt('ll1"'6~flll1Jit 0
l'lr,IW h t" Jlfolllllill\'~ t 1\') un '""U olll<llq.,lo, (fnf"'lt' '\.rt J~UC!f1\ n.J rn.u\ ltw lnld hr"' lllm k'lmrl. \l.u\
1\'fiJUhwi'-'JI:Iollll t\11 lht 114ol h't"" \~S.I \0.,1111\ onh l<l l>f,HO,\ f'QIIo'ft'l~ .-t l111\ tlrtW
fr..-
toe''"'
and fabr,_
Cyr
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Complehng the Ponoms

lht: p.;auermnn ~m.am \(;un k \\tlf \C'*U\Jn
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fokl II...
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J inch<'\ rt...m c\t'l'f'WI.'lfl hnt t('f~ tht nf'{ Uflll

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<~IIM\lrll( ltkl 1(11'loi.llt(h 1/-l ln(h In fr<m'l Juld
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Type 5: set; n Bond wiln Anochod facing

fig.... Focong
'fr.lctt h~ l\l l l tr l '14..'\ tio n for f.td"J( u~h l~ lmtnK
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Typo 3: AJIOChOd Focing

figure 2
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CASUAL SHIRT AND SLEEVE FOUNDATION

I h4. {,n.uul \ hht fiM.IIIdlllltm fu, locxth I hr .tntth,.t b m* t.,r~ b\ ll:w U.(~\ lrl!Mf.ton f'd 10 t h om tht
1
fht .am!htIC' l\ lt~tt .tnd 111.kr thl'ltht b.MC ~ut lbr ca~ 1h 1n fWI'Id.1.u<>n tiln
bt cJco, ('\olj)l"ll lforr~ lhr lwnt VI.Jhl .and ~t 114rt bfl(l.ltr &nd bNc bkt. '' 1Utn.tm~ Thi\ usw.l \tun lound.,lkm I\ o.l'\0 thr I\C" I(M! til''<"'. "m.l v. tt h k-tll;lh ~hI\ l haw kc U'IWII4r~ Tht lsir: -.tun "~
tm n' I,_..J;.C' .. H h n\4\dlfie'd ltr lht tawal,hll\ lk'mlmr .Jnd <lowrt tho.c::ft art: lQu-.tnttd on ~~f\ H7-4~1!.
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ld:
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Rmord
tJW'
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11K.HUIPIH:JII
Overslzlng lhe Shirt

l iM wmll\ h 1~\C'd on UK t.l\U&I 'hht '"'' n~ '"" ,,,.._, un
II"' 1'1("'1) tot ttw \hht f.oil\ br ,. ,.,;ft'\l 1,~; ,1~ It ut 111
bt U\'t'I\.II'.C.'d tr. usu1~ thor loUo-,ng ~htd
1
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tcowatJ
\IHI. ~rmh...te' AOI<t~ \J~kkf Jl.to.h II dnltC'\1,

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ftovr 5,
n;w-c- 11\C' hcnt
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h 11
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fold on tht ,'n1t<1 brw-
\tut 1 I 2 Ilk~ up ltnm ._~ luw 11)1 .anJ

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en.. , uO(' ro tht htm ve ttlc: ''"'~
UnM.k .\t hrH: 11110 lourth~

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l.a.n tt'w .Jrmhok-1.. II dor\irn.l

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;tdd t~hct .Uk1 dl'\kk IJI lulf
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F.~ ,,:ft U':~no;. ho'ltl
for eu!f 11'141f\ICII()n.

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Cutlu,nlJ~I"-''
FIQUIO 6
\ Ul IJh lhl\ '( liM''
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I)
Women's
Jackets
and Coats
chapter
L.
JACKU N>COA.l ~
1..0 ~...,, torcJol.()rll
1~ ..,
ord COOl~
"""'~-~ ond l)elnf~

1c*: Jot.-ttondCoot ~
ntl JACll NfO Co-l SlfVt$
CooEcnot
c;.oono""' JOe: ..,~ $I+IYt5

lok.~ llllolf>Ailee SlaoEroott
~
~
O(SI(m VAR\AIIONS
.410
411
$HAW\ fOU~IION
$hcrwl COIC:K \tiiiOI'IOrll
\'Jidt $r"'ooM C<*Jts

$nnw! COiof "' tn Sti)Clr01ed UndereOIOr
""" '"0
"
4<10
OOUIUEASI(O JACtCH
Low Notctt L<JPf*

PollOI COlOr ond Lapel
...
..,
...
..1
M>l
411
473
41S
COUAIPI\APft. ~
8o11e hotcf' C<*Jr/\.CX*
' \
""
""
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$TVl( JACk U
Otlf.P,[Cl JAC~I/COAI fOUNOAftONS

COlO! ond l()l)lll Styles IOf !hit IOiiOred
Joet.ot
1tOM'Ntll"'g 0or1
JACKET AND COAT FOUNDATIONS

U111 j~l.rl ;U\tl tto;tt Ji<Utl\liHit!l\ .." (k\'tl;....:d ...._..., ll\oln thor '-\1(' \hloo. ~ Jht mbfl:f.'d ~h .111\lnw
tiWfl tor ;J lh\b'~tol.lK in.~t- tnttiiA\utlt. uttdorl1ntnk,. th....,IJK't. ~ p..do;. ~ \kon~ hotldtn..wnd tht\ \afl:t
('l~t,;h 10 ftt t I'M'tltt lfllll~ I o\t1 I>! IW. "'1'1\,)1~:1 ln!'ll;f U'lhlt\KtlrJn " .r1 ll'nplfWn'l put CJilht t,;am'll."nl \ ""flPlr1 "'""
"'"' t.,, ;N.... n \4.tflW1('\ ''"" r,, nd
o1 ~
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COLLAR/LAPEL DESIGNS
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ONE-PIECE JACKET/COAT
FOUNDATIONS
f.o.l'tl Q
Cut JUilt'm' ~~~,.v:
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, b..tl t ~
th~ \L.tn 1"-'ult <md ttll\t' lin ,kit
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11K' I If..~ Jlk"\\' h "'lllod.llloll h tl"k loJ\0.' 1.~1 "" \, lot'l'll\it

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;u\ol thl\ l~llo\'IIAo~ lth .Ill l t~llllolll~l "-h In Uut 110:0
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1\ no" hmtll'l.ll\1 th.- "'~ tllu'*l.th-,1 I he ~nu
'""' tnc.,., lh'"'m In lht J'U\' "~"' ,,. ''lt..lult' u ...
Tb<' J'IUC"rn' ~'UIJ ff'fniHl ",anti~' until thf

ltnl!'lf: tntttUclnt:' lind (-flto\.C p<\~ Jn' """""' '"'
f~ 1 oh('t'fM'fk''-" \k"\O:"""f'Uitnltl\.llllf'1'
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Tn J,~ tht ("\(~\ t-4 the- Uk~ d.ln
ill-&: tlu lnut~U1111 I h.- nIIJI .ul\1 "''"""" tuu

tnJt\tluHr~ lo"'t\ h \ IJit!Of\'\1 too..~,,.....,. '"-"'('~t "diu'"
W"f
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larur~ u ~ .adt~t\1 toe 1Jk,ykkf f\ld'- lktn ~

~ 4QQ tc"r PJ..bntt
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~ w.Jm$ m IIJ;.1nS- lnttd.k'lnl'' (Jil tttd .at lhf
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pm ' \qu.art \IJ' 1 1 .f I~ frrom I ~11 ~ k!..,.~
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f)r;a,.., h~ h,~~n I tu l> f"'\tl"f'lirJul( 1 .a tnch 6t

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hnoc
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\l,hh nf'\:lr.;hm tl) bu~t pomt; d o<;(> d:ut 01nd u....

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THE THREE PANEL STYLE
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Rnbhed Wrop.Around Potfern.s
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Design Analysis
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Tht' otn1t '<.lm

to the bl(l.. \\.ant dAm gJ\~ a
1-lt,dlt shapr to Ilk' ~h tmtd ~ l.~t fTh( \huyl.
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d~lgn detail tn t nlwnrc thco jkltt
for tht' ht'm alkn\olnu
St)ldmt: Squau 1 guiOI'hnr ltt'lm th.- htm rnodltlt

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\l<ul.tht ""111\t Inti\
\tf.rl. l'-4 lmh out from tMh \tdt

\tJirL \ S lnch('S down ftom X
llf111 r~t,~nnrd runtod lint\ tu 'f .aJ"ld murd

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Cut p.1n~:h frum t-.a(ltr. Di~.ard t.Att~~.
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Design Analysis
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a\tfn ICI ~~ 40-
p.IIICI IJ<l.ft'l h the b.l ~ fOI tht dnl-n Tht
1~1\.gth
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h CUr\~'tl . on, I'KIItnn I\ th\' cl<l)Uft \ '"I)-pi('(\'
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1nd ~ linr ~~ h;"ot'' dr.l..'l.
wmtd tlt"t\'l' and rO\mdl:d JIOCl.\'l ~.~npktt thtdf."Sl~n - ~Add ut'.llhf d\'t.t\1\ lo cr\IM11' the I,)~ l.ct I
tmtru~llan~ for ,-omt ru~:tln~ th(' ~~l.tt lnllo.,..
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fhe Wrop.Arovnd Draft

flgute 1
Ttac:t' tht Mtpttt tatl-"1 o~nJ tWt).J'I" \k'-f"\f
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JAC)(iS Ar.c> COAlS

Fogu!t' I
FRONt WRAP
PANEl
Tho Threo Panel OtoM

J'olhm i iHi f\l (tlon~ Stl\'l'tl h11 Uw tVI.IJl.th~nd '''h
JM.:, o18K. R\'h Un .and t.nt llinu~ \\1th thr dr.dt
Fro nt Jockol
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(~L tht ho:fnllf'H" h II f"l.llkl I<' llw 1\tJillf"' \dJU'-l lhf' J'llt<'lll~'jJta:w~Jtr r.J. \Jd lJI' tw"t;;ht m I.W'M' '"" etw rv ~ntthl.,h ,ho(Mn u111$"te" I<"
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Fll!lng Cl\eek Poln!S

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Hn'fiG ANAlYSIS AOO COA:ftCIIONS

IHE SHIRT fOUNOAltON
$1wl !MevoM~~'~
Ploc-~01 0.)1Qn
I IKU"' 2tt K('(ul .
THE CASUAL SHIAI

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8ASIC PANI f()UNOAI~ fOQ TffOUSU~
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INTRODUCTION
TO MEN'S WEAR
" ' n\ "r.u f.a\h i(loiH hne e,~~h't'd OH'f thr )'l"~rs.
111.;,~ vn b\ (t)ll~\lll'lf'l' '- ho '' nttd doth~ k'S~
u;tdillon~l ott r('\Ut' th-t In 1\ hat "''U PIOIM'' d reu.
~~~nt't'tlflll 100 h.aJ'P' 10 oNigr: rlt"~"('r
t.llk du'lkt'- brrshttr rolo.-5-. ,uhoucUC' t"h~
\l\kiI'M' ,,matkm'-, ~L(.1\ with Of wirhout roll~r
.,rid bfl('b rt' but o,omr t.tlthr lm10\"110n' olft'rt'd
ll) Ulbh tOt'UoUmt'"h :t thC' dJ\\1( j~l.f't, wtth thf' '-rkd lr~ilkln.JI
{(llll.alollld IJ"C'h. \UIIJ'I('Uil\ But II"''' lhf' "l'.lrt'l
-.hdckt-Mkd hot\ PI"'"
~t.th w'nt' toM foa,.h
..lMN, tovm .S.'""'~ ol tht cW,;t Utilod ~
~ ClftC'n pu5-h<d up ~nd "'Offl \\'1th dmlm ~ntJ.
~'1ft\ ~ 0\'C'fW<'d p.antJ. nd ptnnl~l.m~ \tusck Lnlt '"'" f.H Ibm\ \hlrh w'tf( w'Ofn "'ith the tr<l
\litKl'll~llroo)rf lhf' htmhno w'fff' f'ilhf'r dr~gging
1.., hllk\1 1.1p r.:mt~. boob. Of l)lrt' ftfl wn1pltttd
tht f.uhloon wc;~r fat thf' ~~ Conwmtn dtd thfo
mh.inJ.: ~ dt\l~trwn nudt thr ~oot., _fa11~.on
""'tt'
.,,ws
\Wtnttnl \\'hJt will~ Ihoe
nt"' (;Wllon d1r1i0n
lc, nttn' MT<trr

liUol p..111h
Ill 11'111 ,.,..,. ~1clr ,,.,., 1AN{fll' '""'

WIU' mi.Wtn.
1ollf' tl 1fn(l fH~IIH
Drofl PrOjects tor M en's Weor

lin t.atlmcd 1\l.l.C't, n~' '' ,lrl.'\\ \ hht. ta \\1.:11 Shirt,
ltnU\l.:l, da~~ .\nd jc.:w .-ut llhr \tratetl.
l lu: j .u~c.t I\ the flr~l J)r(ljl"c:l; U h <lrafh."(J J ~ a
llfWplt'i.t ftl4mdatle~n patt tru, h om lhh rwndall on,
m"">' JU IIfl d{"'-tMn' <an be C"''t'lltt.'tl, I he foul.lnlon
r.n br adllJl tcd to the lmtftu: tlnm for fdt:I:HI, th O!)
\ hnld<n. ldmtno, and IJu iiHrfl ncd :lhu"\.. Ch~'Cl:
tht ch.tJ)Itr tltlt) to flnllthl.' ,haft of yom C'hokc.
l wo mt,r+.urcmul chrl\ follow ~ Orh: fo r Yo ung
\ If n. o~~nothtr fur t lw M;uurt' M ~lr. lmtnreiiOili ;u c

Jr:l\ n rm ""h l'lt .utd h<M' to 11h'ii\Urt '' ((11t1Jl.1 ny's
fcrmt.
h11n.el lmm, .and" nmdcl.
"I"
A <'00\tmm .\ruuna lfiU\mulltnt than\ ~nd 11.1-Mk ll""nH."liPs;~tt."' br di.IM''" "'"' thour,h <'ff~~ rt
ma,k to tk'i..ilk \lklt \ti\nd.ar,J\
"lit< .,.,,.,loti<Hl1 tnl-~\tlll"fllt '" th111\ th~tj'(tnuA;\ U1 on~.,
'"''u~ cn.1e 10 ~" .\ ~ ,_PI
1._.....,
_.0, .md .\ )"OOn- rNko tn hJ~\t' tl'l\~ \l.l~(of ~ lh "''~~~'or U.~ wr.. ,...~~nbc: s ~~;
ltd,;hh du , .. ,,;" rl'loeklrnll~ h''t' 411 '" 41 d~ and br ~.< OJ t.JAno_ ll!'l('o'htf..odid ~be ohurttt than
s g 11~dlfrt'tt'flott:\Jft~'\t tht \'f'nk.\1 ttkol"'l\'fnt"'hM tht dn\1. Pn1oN1 muck~ ox-~~~
t\<'l~hl , )(I ;l~jU'-IIlk>f\1\ Ck1 f)lol
rt,h
nu ch.arh inthl' tt'\.t '" b11~ on lht ~"\uri. lomJ (.ompll'lv\ \b.r\lft \.&ea V1d Mtitn( "'"' ~
lht form\ l'lfU\kk ~ ckllt dtir\dt<lO brtlo\'ft'n modtl l\pd and thh: _.._rttJIICCh.
'">r.n.
Jn,tnKttun h ~tl't'fl lor to~l..lnlt nk-\Uttrnttll\of 1 Ulilllf'MI'

~b-. -"'llak modd
RCotd mt..-\Utct1k'fU\ In tlw 'rn pmlokd un Uw foUDw,n, ~
to dt;~h lht tac;u-t. "'''' nd 1t.ant\ '"" thild.tt-n .nc!trn'l'-.
c:.a..p:fl" 3.: l~ ..0 34..
IIIDft
,m-n,.;m,.
INHUC' ~h t~n UW dr;th 111\H\kllon U\ln p.I"'IO\\IJ matl.lltftllrtru..
Moi\QMole(MM)
fhc: m.11L.t\l \IX tu\.- (.hntlll'ld'W'\1t1Nttl, ~('~ tilt t)M I d:w!l cf .O.!
~~.,_"'-,
fulkT Chr\t ;ul!J \hort IIO!othl
YO<Jng Mot (YM)
lhf' .n~rLnJ \I' .and \hC'\1 ~\UH'tnc:nt olt\" ttw \.ilmt toe tu.plt. IUr +
tw\ .a km,xtr w.1IH .lrt<l .t \llnHtkt or mu~~~ tn.h
ht(m'""'' l'mh\t thl' fobltotr J.!mt~ ..,, Nt '"'"\;JIK.I.tf.',

1hi,h,
Forms ond lhelr Choroctellstcs
Nr$
.a ~d oio tbe
,'\.t loaa
Meosunng for o Personal Droft

~ ..~~,..,, Otc !nt...td .Jlo"'IUid \\,.,, ~ l"'oth '\lltl 11"1..
tOli'\1 or .a httni J;rur l'lf' hll' rnl! '\hc'UtJc t ""'m' .and
,kif ~nt' nd 1.r-1~1ru: thl ' " ' Un'lf' ~" tlk llk'lhl
II "'ill tlh' .an;._! he-r f't''"''ll h' dl\ th.- OI<I:JI\UIII1( 1'\
tklC tn 11 .alo.- \J.ar.. lt\W'II ,tJl\1 t~<Ml. tC'nh"f hnt"
" th .a <.I'Uf'J\ f'lfl:f'
tttn";a..l
\hen
the t.lnnct!l It' thor t'ff!lcf' Col thf rtc~l .1nJ l\.1\l.
II\ , , !ht t'o.."d\
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Meosuremenl Chon Form 01'\d Personal Fot

C.lreumlerenco Moo.wutmont'
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~ d'W ..r o.nr U('{'l" tlf(!\.m line' f(ll thc,xktdr.an.. but ~.arid ft'\~ ttw 4itllkr fl'
tJx 11 ' ' dqJdt ~ t l\lrfl<c t po~nt dn.n. ftn
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F"IQure 10
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th.at oftn <>lltor~ <'Oihtn~tk\n mcthKh
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f"tf'\h1111\. f'I'M'k'\ .1\~UtN 1111th tht ~Ut ~c ~tii\L \IMU~ ~ l.rtl"t'!'td L1t>na ~ buf 1CIIIIC'~
rin *'"nl. to.atrc-~tf't drc:r tNn ~htn 1bt bnt mrthod lof \h~o&D~W..C:..n"'':tl Cl'm1st~n
Hn .a 1\th Of ""'hr-11 \I~ lt'lof tl'fk to duf' 4n 01 roll~~ tn .a toot.d Btbn 1b,m ~utmt: 10 ~ wun
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To ttml ,u 1111U,'1Jtkln.th:rl.ab
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if,c.m "toll lllhlh fll'll.l 1'/ltll \h'.llll olf ho.ll h .., .. ,l!t'\1 lh( hlhllllo\.t' fMIIUII Col!l II( ~ul tn ~,;111 (II t iW
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lllhlloti.IIIJttolll ht hU\t'lllr niMII>OI< II, "'tlh VI
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Fusing ~nom Ports

fyu tnh
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Assembling the Jocket

1114.' ~"'lmu \Olll l'l\' ~hJIIflW II Jltl'lut\'\1 l'f("f'Jf"'
tlw t 111t.u, I ll\' R,111 olutl \01\'lt JM~l.~:h, ;.~nd \llt't'\'1:\ "-C'I
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Tho mMhods arf' Uhutrllt<'d
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lnr \lf'4'\'l"\ Wltl~o~;ut ,,.m,, cmtlt thr In
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Applying lhe ChesJ Piece

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rt.:ttt' tit,, I3)U at the ~I Itch line o( ;arm hoi<'. \hOUI
dtt .llld )ide lttat to w.:.d. Nc,t. plce hymoon tO()
ol tht' lint lol)tr. L..;ut ld) t't pl.1ced 10 tht ~am allcJ\\.Inct of $hOuJdcr, armhol'l'. and )ide. Heat will
fu't(' top 1.1) en, wcuring )UJ)port for the front la<.ktt.
~ JMncls, Ctrlltr ld:. and shouldco.. Press
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lo \lih.ltlu,t at 1up up .md pin t.kh
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MEN'S WEAA
Joii'Mng lklrnQ ond Jaekel Hems

F.guoes 220 to cJ
f~llf'J "ill ftJld u ndtt' Jl thr l !nut~ ;,
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t1'1f'ltlllUI.' \Ur'\t bt)onoJ
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Crotch
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318
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IO.'nlt"f .;ft.~owJrw
,_
\t.arl. \.
lull of' tu h p nutL \l,u._ I

~u.lrc- In both llrft'( 11e1n' hlnl '.&rhl 1
PA
f~lf
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~]
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htp m~rl.
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flguro 4
llr "'~hi ll:.nd un '"'
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MEN S Ylf.AR
SPECIAl INFORMATION FOR All PANTS
I,
P.tnh lll\md..ulom .tn' klt'nlllk..l h\ ttlf\'t" h.ll-.it I' I~'~'~ tlllll,.l \ ~~~~ ft IC"\'f"l lou'loi.-, lmlo:l('l.lttlr l~tt~. dl)l.l (Yifl
wutnl. .all t'lf "h6\h .trl" R'Oirc,I IC\1 tl\ .t flit"hf'lllolJ:r ''' lilt' 1111 1Ul'<l'IJI('ttl('l11 l11h tcrpk h c~rlhed in th~ In
twductKIM 11'1 ( h.11Jl"t'11t llk I<IIIP'\ irU: IIIIMIIUIIIIIII olfplit'\ tel tht flolllll IClUilddltiln\ ,l!ld tk_>..lt:,IH.
Pof'lorn Side WOiil ()Ye(IOp

'9-1" 1
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A.
(kffbJ"P~~C'Un"hrn ...u..a IIW".t\l.lft'IUnU I"'~

,('fttn'
d''""
Jnn lux frMt ,.,.. h.M.l. ro-nt uJt w.atn n
...,
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ltr n.~ru: ""' '"1'1'" l't
rur nw1. ~.lind
and .(<l c.)
-..g the s.oms

sqnz
c....
hdl tnw ,,, J"Uc-m' e-nd ~

l.n'\.ln:uorn "" cnrrnh.ll'l"' nw b.kl. 1\ ...tliiJttf'nN
Mid b \Uthbtd tn tht ~.nr
\\ ..f"J.Jft( bt(l!l\ .ll
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II
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lht.' \111'\Jtlljot,jlh, 1!\\l ll.hlt

lhU'UI!h fl.lnl ~~~lliuinR
0
In th1: H."\1 fil. if nM.Jilk-1
)C\Cif\d hninf: ~1th

l..cm.: p!nt'K'd hl1 1\lnl '""'""
.tnd ~omch .tu'""' i.to.tt'IJ, lc"'d
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\cltth I )\".~II \kk.' '" U"IC: rn
tom;lko. u,-r
lnctao*"' Cenler Bock seom

FOJ83
lint Hll ''hllllt \t\.1\'
u l fltllfiiK Jthl hlt ( tt\h 1

PII.,."K ''"1'- m.ltlhllltt ~dt
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u 111
mu\.,. f'iiiP' to '~f'lll"it~~-
k"( Uf""'M\l \1,11b loio.kd f'dct' ~

IIIII' JJOf tn tht l!n nt: fU1 ..
tht ''"''"~' klttonhook
rk n Jnd mrn l.)tNk ''"' J 'h.lill'
tum l"\4"' lh' '"''h l~f ltkh
h.ndtt'"'h' btndm~t.- 01 th<-
S.J9
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.ad
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f'h"\. oMd Jf""'"' l."b I ~ (be..
rum IJII\ IC'O ~tw~ lni-.KL. lll\'JWft" ,m1~M.IOI ~~
..and ''-"hl~'lft"Jd to hltrt'.t\C kngth.
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'9-1'" J
.1. ( Ill lhlllUJlh U'llkl 111 Itt~:

\I l i th IIIII', ~1111 \\II i/1'1" Jllllfll(\
Crotc:tl
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Pont Welt Poc~et-Proct ce

Welt
FoYt 2
FIQIIM lo b. c
11'1
11~ "'-'"''" rtlf':hlm rJ..,lhM \h!Mn
\1.trl .1 ,.,.,, lint S tu

\.J 2'1un~e, ,. ~hl\'ll
ft11m \'.,ml .uul 2' hum
( Ul in l.tlt~c f~u ll"'tl(\ "M 'f'll

f.ttlftR .md Jllp!flt lntrrf,. ,. riiJIInlt l..!ol
l1olltM JMI 1111 ltn lht
"11\lllnr
r..:hcnd
'
\1.~r~
\l.uJ, wrlthrl! lllfll(
r.
,.
-nalJC~,hmlfo.;
'""'1m- J"'lt""
\l.u._ A '"11)!111 hrw he
'vn ,,
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RS
11 lumj\1111
.Leo h
lht' \tell
llollfJun 1/..C",hf()\ flod,
...
f'OliiO 2
l'ollll
l )f,lft proC ~1 f.n.ah Iifll"l. IIIIU1l,
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'
7. 1'1,... t th(" ''" m\: n~~:h1 ~t.J,; k'"' n

Jnd unh 1\"\1 (11 t1~ Q(th..-\Ooc 1
ol. 1\tll thnu~h lht J11JIn)l lll llh'

h,h I. \\dt \llll.l' \Ill\' HIIUI I\
:11\' "'.j \1111 \~1 '\..... , ,1111 lhl"'t ,,
M 1'1,\n' ""'10\1 InUit( oll'l hl'
n~Ah hu~,~:. ''\""' .. "'""'I"'' ''-h

ti'Jt It~ 1.11.11',:
hi ht'li hlll lhtl u\,t w,m\\

h 1 h"'''' .1 thin J'IJIII\1 ll.l'h'
.AII'Iilld lhr h\ h l'h"\\
I
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Ill
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1!. hol.lf""'",l;-" ,..,t.tnJ t,h

.......... 18*' ...,,a:h ... ' 1111'."'"
.... ~,b~l("i"J'C .. ~
CAPES
Capes
and Hoods
\ '"I"''' .l '~ '
J:tt motll tlt 1\.tnjC '''""' 1111 \ll01llo '' '"""'''"'" ~lth '-flf\ tiUclld'l\ tl l .uno~ I tt l '-"
"'-'''
h I olh \'C:' ' ' '
~~ t1 Ufl htll.t~.l....,l h oJ.t f''"~ (l""i.
M tl't'\ .th' d\h ,.., ... , , ho!ll lh~ !HI'"' t..un.l.-tlolll \ t~n 10tto.1 unutu 1.11..-'\ 111C'"t \6:11 t .. ~o..-.1 '"ll;o e>tl.ot
' ' ' ' \\
t,.- "''Ill ..._,,.,.,.h 1\ '"' t
'1"-''''"",'
11 \.1!1 \ \ _., lAI ~Oil\ tol 1 Ill II Ill l.t\lttoin Ill II h
A lino Ct>po r O<ll'IOUIIon

OoJIQn
"""""''
t ' I''' II>\ \lit~ \il ho"'"Ut
;.\lh \Ill htl _.IIU 1'1\lf\

lhtt't lutltti~'\Uh lho tut~tl 1'-"1" ltll\lll,.lt\
l\\th lhh lo"'ll lo\Aitoll U!l 1-. 1-1,..,_1
CArlS
AllwCciJ"Df~-"''<l"
fUO&J Cor f ~_."._,.,

H()()OS
..,.. 1-.>
~ 'C ,.,.. tUX~ ()Iori
Con' "'"'I tiOQ,J ~ "-l'.tOn
"'"..:.u.t
C (.-or .)IJN() tlo.lOlJ OosirJl
L<XIIC t"-1 f011rlduii!On
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r ..JOOM
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1"'"'"'
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\lul. I llu h In hti!U the itl~ "'lSI. l.at)('l I
'IU-'fl' ~ 1mfK'\ 111 Otlld lhJ\Il 110111 1.. fl~l.lt:~
nhlll .and kiiJCih t.:tn '"').) lht' slh )ChOuld b('1.11 IJ I f1 Inth \\kit ~mJ fiCIIl ht:d 41('WU lop ;tnd
~
2 fiO(>OII ll"l'll:l IIJ!l\1 Ifill~ kk tJ,ul hHilkl
lrOkc I ~ nm
)IM!U.kk'r tn 1,n~ \\ 1rh tht' W< J. lUr1 tll,l\\"1111. '"
"-!u.m.' J I1 l l
(fOfJI t!WCTlllt'l fUll II lllU\hlnltllk'
'
~rrnltclk l.tl'CIII
1-1-1
8-( (..,
hf.rlllfll
ltl. ,,,,)('
...
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J J.
L)ol of fl.k.ii.J~ ~u.~r(d fnm J ( ('"""'''
00$1gn Anoly$IS
Jhl\ ll.unl \JIX' "''' ,1 l k\J 1)11."'-l. U"-' 1\l!ll'fd Uti 1'11n ro~n U.1t rult!,ull.ts .111'11 Ul" nM lncluckdl Ot'lct:klp lhc
fl,m'\1 C:..Jiit ltM.I!ld.tlit"'l hom Ilk flu.U <Ultl b.:kl.lt>IO,O l_.,llltlh k ~ !~:>~: c:k--1\tl \',)fl.):linf\'- (f't'ol1t ~
u\lriK tilt ~l,~h/\ph.-.\1 mttlwld
4.'\11 ,, ~t.'ll ~llljl W lnr:hn t illdM."' t not IIIU3i
.\l.lo.J lrnth 10 nlltl.'f lntlt be:~'" htt' nti.IJI h Ilk

~
Flo red Cope Foundolion
~r.u(dl Mil
rlu- ~~~~ h f,~o~,.~._'tt with tht hnlng.
t.. With 1 t(Un'l" \hJf~t".l lo~tt
Birn6ththftnltf'l(" 1 ~ Jtkh
ur lt'l11 tile'~ 'lol'>~tn
r>ro~. ~ lnch nr\nu>n JW.a.llti V~oilh lhlt un
'*''
ttt hmr
The Rored Cope [)fCJS

fQ.I'"
lr..alho ftnfltollldl:lk..p;tr' -rm..~-M~
;and w.lr d.am lo
'quut a h!'C'OD PP"- r\k~ !br t.. .. md ~ m

lqWort 1.- .-.m ....... t1p1o I lftda ...,_ IOd
H) \
r.p.r. J
Matt t-;:1.. u~ f1Q I Of,., thot hnnt UJ": rNtth

~ ,(Uh.ltt111n With(; ..lJitoudllnj." ott.Ml. inoJi
l.-tni h\ ttr..hn ln..
u.-.t-
'.11nd flrz- 'k'pM.lbM- ~ D

'i.Jd.l. 1 anr;bndi;Jownonttlt b t....._ ...,,,., ~ i '
\bJl.. .11 nuuh 111 U. ~ t4"

Sluf" thto hrmlirw tor."'t'nl ron: ~ -~ f'.J!"("tn'
I drn4 the l'lcmhTV 10 ~ lr:r.~b. tliC' ncw
h'mllnt ~ ~rllld "1'h h p W...d
Ot.ll"' .a ltn~.-h t'\tdNOI'I 21 ttn:r. tt\M'It a
oiF(d I
o\tloJ ttununlll..,_ 11 dn.ol't'4.-
(J\'f'tMm ~ul'\" ~Ill b., .dtu,lt'\1 1111 UK mrKkl.t
CAPE f lf0Nl
/0
,,_,,., a ~.-ul"\'t'd ~ldn .10 c '" ._ t:oa: d

bxl.rrud~
Cconttt lht d.ut P'""' 1 I Z. 11Khc:1 up hn1'" IIU\1

IIOtnl .md dro1v. MJtU'lt'd d.1rtlf1!\ llltl,rt I""""'
C.omplctl" U-... p.~ncrn l()f ., tt-'\1 fit f\twuiOCt
....,._,
1\:.pt, '.l--.d 1..
II
..,.rfJrt fUoh ~ ,.., ,~( '"""'''' .,.,~,,,,,...,,,
tbun l~on .. lttorJr lw1f ttom' 'TP1Jfotllt~ tlrf'!IG4o
bt~I'Wdr
\laJl. dw unttt ~('ftl ~'*" %41" .IGd ~
1.-'l" nt:r\'t' ''' tht t...l. c.&Jl( cor!Jdnt "' tht 1\11 l
,~)ckr din k1: ~II tOO.\ the ltulll tu k~l.
\l..rl ~c- p~lh-tn dl tht- ttM.L \11~kkr I\
hl,.ttk'r 01 It~._., dun (font balo~s'k"C" thC" dllh f
rntt .JI lhr 'l.hOUkkf IJJl o1n.J 1-.k-nd (lin'\ lint. I
\Ill("
tur ~d Kid art boll .-rtt
'
--
'
~non
,...,.. ,
HOODS
lltlf-.h u'r\f'f lht hto~o~IAnd \olfl)~llmf'\ p.m 14 th1. l.a\C 1 h("\ (oln bt \11\lfn ~wt.tdy o. ~ ~n c,t., ~rmt"flt
l.il.t ~~~ ,::atm nt\, hn<llh ''"'"' tn d \ .ltlU\rot ")k'\ ;md \h~pn.
I \\ct httlld loM.I!Ubtlolfl\ .Iff' lllmlrtlt'd lh(' c:nntnur hooO .and k"~ot-111hnJ: hoocl. Ot~ n.'ati<ln\UI'I br
d\"\"t'IOj'lt"CI h\Wn tin '"'" IHurM1~tlum. ltt~~th th..ll ..II' lltu\ll.tnl "'"' UhN U\ 1. . pnnnlh lbt frtonl Jnd
Nltt. nl.llr~~: f.. tiK' ,,..urm' Jtt thtdt..,J t... thctlft.h
How to Measure 101 the Hood Drof1
,L---
~-~ 1 ~t(Jd~tnt
J'b(t' lnN\I.Ujn~ t ..l'<' t thr 1..~111n hum !lord,
-..
"-. .
lhn~n;n tb\Mk-\1 .u~

11tc".t'IUdn~ Uf1 ..,._.
"'hlk
~
~rlold OM-Ihlh.l '" tM\ " 'IU\Uiftntnl illnd
Opoon l. ~
.a.'
8ock seam Cope
.\dd Wlm n th'l' (ftU blo.\
Jdd
"llll<h - - - -
C~pt on tit cut ont pr tf ttlcWldth ot tht Ubnc f"t"l''tl\ l('ftltf

bk i. rs pl.k"< (In Mad
0p1>on 2
hlld tnt.1 t.C tiM" '"J'of
mn tht IW'~
a l"t
HIM tiiU\IU.Itdl
OpliO<l 3 SOporOiod Cope

Cut tht apt tq:rlltn~ on tl'l~ tl'h't.l t m lmt".
Or;m Lh(' p .ltn 'nd <om~r JWU"'m lf)C .l uu
fl l ,\IJIU\1 t.houkln (\H\'1' (In trw tn<'llkl
l ~r !;rt"lttr flu~. add tllthf>rJ\(>r.lrm \U:m end
ins; ~~ ihouldt'l up
..
... ... .
-&
I ell!enStOO
1
contoured Hood Founda tion
ooslgn Anolysls
I he ( 0UtUIUt'd lu'Jnd fl l\ the \hlllk' u l lh t h~,KI . lh!lh
CAPE FRONt
l'l llll ll )l d.IU \
,II IIW t 10 \\ II ' nd !1\"d. .If\.& 1 h~ ltc"'.l\l
II altll~ hrd "' till' m'C._IIrlr n t lht ~ r mrnt ''Jttlnll,

,11 lh t O'lllt't front
f9.rP 2 t41'.;1rQI:)rrtlalt."4Car...,....
~\.I~Mtthfoh.l.l,l~nt~n'"ktd"nd~
tn rothn 'lldr J'A;Wid
~ ~ ~~
,\~'.,.
Ponorn Plot ond Monlpulotlon

fte)tJ'l' I
.
\ ~
ol'l.,'ffk'.lliiiiN'IIh ntocll l U \.lnlflil
"
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1 1
t -4 uKh
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k.-11
._,
"flU"~"""'' t
hlfinlfttJ rnNwllo:'1tl('ltl
"'..&"''* 1'\ll'lolt-
I 112
l " ' nl th(
ICJ !ltl It~ I

' A lc-\ 1 in' h ~11.111 hoont II
tl!ll"ht"" ~\Uh'llo>lll(
,..,,. -hllf ,., ' II \l..arJ.
r~,..,,.
,.
11114'~' lht"IMt'l tot lht' llltiiiJM\h Ill Ulllf.llldtl!tM

\'o llh t otllk'l til ltM 111"1 l., IIP114 hhll(ll'otttl I
n,,.w tht '"~ltlo\~u1 t~1~t-.J lln'l' of thr huuo.J, cun

"" llnlll>~nn A. t. o ,~ 1'. 1, n
I"""' n lrl.61) uu\e lnm n. (,, 1 X 1\lt-nd
h,M \' th1 11"111 lk,_ I l..tlio'i t 1 llh I ltunl tM"\ \, :\

!Uhtlt II IIIW\ h fll~ ''-\'llllht Uflllotl.~"\lll-lllttn J
41 flhUH Co, fhl
lftn.. .,_~ thf'I...IIHII

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I \t
hm I
rIQ<rft 4 ~'0 'ho l-tood
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tlmhrt
t/Pllm h ''"''- ,wd th.a" lin' "'"'" II
It '
114 IIMh \ht ..
\!.Ju.tlt 1"11 I I 1M hMhn hew"
l.llll('i ' l ,Ul\1 I'
""- ct
l~o"h "-11.'\
If'
Clt\ol Ihi ttl uf H \t \Utl. .and mnnc.-..1 Q
"llh U ..arkll'
UJIIrthiiJC.flll
\1~''- u"''"' 1"!'1"n potnh J .and t f)!..w ~

J utt h h"" p.t&lki 1o ltM- ~ luw l.ot'tl '
t 'ftJW<~:t 1 .anct 1. .-.th 111 ''" ctw .w.
f-.tiM'!
,,., .. ~ .,. t\..Q JOd Q-r ...,.._ ~

lou\ 1 "' 111lh \l,jr\...,. df- <Vn~""" ((lift.
nt\.11nt '"""" Q 111
'""'" .a c.unllnt-
10
't't tl.-..J"
p.r,....,ttlmr \.-& w
. . , .. thf f\1-th---rn t.,..-

H
,_,. ....IIJU tJiw'
\~.f.
w,p.2
f'l.tl.l fvli. p.ill rn lfllht t,,t"ll. "tlh H"flh I 1~14 i.

on \-8 hrro nd nrc:
lr.k.ch.K-Lnnl.lnoflt.-rnflh4'\hW~Itt 1.111\1)
I."' \
\hill ttw l""'llctn J --4 JrMII

11.11.1lld htlht> \- H ht)l
...,.... '
lllt\t. .&.rl 11fdt O.N . . ~ t1 lftt
"
lf.au lhll\llllt-thn~ lt~o~n tlw ulfrl<r

111-, l.
l.o~ll t llltu~rn llfw\ lnh.IIC lht
cbn II')\
untt~u:d
ft.lllnn 1
Mfffi!JH 1ho p.uun
Ec - - - - - - - - - - < G
....
..
'
) 14
I '
lltOHI
t..,...
t..-.~
"''h umu l~t.

I
ll'l.atd cunt 11
\~ 1.1~1
\t.u~
IH\1
I tfkh \lo~rL.
POr-Nit 1"4 .... ,, ......
.t
''"t'M."
'
548
~er24
Contoured Hood Oo$lgn

Delign Anotvalt
lilt' (conHoutN 111N'Id UWIIlk'\ the f-..c , lllltllJtl~tl
hom thl' chin l~l\ tn liM ntnu lllm "' lht t\t:,;J,
ami ~mtot:nt ""' ll(llld Je.-~lhtt\ llllnll. thot" rk'ttm"
.1nd tht \t~~Une nch~t the \kk '" ,,.._.,,...., llathcon~tt' flO! dt\lt('(l, ctlo rM" Att.J tntht tt ntn had.nl
uw tiM<d.l tt n4thot lwt\t.IJotlc\!1 1MU1:1n l)(-<~r.o 1 n
lnt~ to1 I"~IW:t
Trt tht (Ontoor hnod ,..,_,.,.._.,.,'"

~
~ncludlnc
J .(, llllot ;~nd t. -I lillt ' ' " 11'14: ooc-1 dt.ah. p.ll'f'\
S..l\ .and \..16t
U1.a'l\ a ''~kluw hum d.ln point ,., ttw C'a..,.n
<bn. ttltUn,; ..a lnt~ btkww th"' Co lint'
"-1\IJtt down hcm pnlnt I lf<r futlntut '""'

bltnd tht fl(,kHnt
.'
d.lrt IIIJII tU:t'\\ I\

\'
.''"""'"
"'t Nl
X-V
inf ht'\ M.ttl.
'
lkftt~\
pJII ,_, tht KlltM!f\t. fen U"; d.utlf'\~ huvcJ.

PJ~ 5~ 7. tiJ:Uit \.
- ,,.'""
lo)t;~tt IIIZinth<'\C'ltUII\qiMtt'rok- ..nd piJ'oll

pulnt \', \\l th tht' othet klt .11 JIIC,itU \ 0'"" "
u1t~o~tc II~. tu'KhlnJt X "'llh \' I .abel p<Mnt l
fllc-nd !rom 110 I
1lt;\\\ II l hl\ h I"'(ICI\\IOn J..,f,lll\:1 '1\llh lhf' \-/
Illh.'
tOtlllt(l Ill\ ~ ll(h.
..... 'k
"""~:
- ..
3/&
}.I!UI..b4rUon JI.K't-ltlcrlt lChllj'll'l IM.
L~
y
. ......
'
'
f!Q\I'e 2
rl.~o,,- hum "'~"'ldt-' n tht "hOVkk-t tu...sd nt'
"11h C1llfl'k-t -.4 tho. nt-o;\. h>~KhlllJJ~nl I
l)o" m~tl. n:nt,t lhlf'tl'l l. mdl...-tt\1 bt t~ tor<>
l..~n hnt).
..
Ponrn Ptof ond' MonlpuiOIIOn

t ,. ~tNlt"f k"~~:nt~- .ckl1 mchn or
\-8 ITM'.II'urtmtnt_ ~ Ont~ 2..
triO'
to IM
'9H'
\~8 ll\-nhc-.t ll'tlt.l(Utrn"'('f\tlt'..'UJJlpk: 10 Jnchnl.
(I...("
2 I 1 h~hn
<-ll
\8
~!rome
0.'" \tk"*n.
1'\acT mun tllk.L <1ft \-<.,: hrw. "''thcomcr of tM
nn.L toudu.n,g .\
Pro~" rwcl. to tht(_QIT'Wt' of ttw \houkkf. Ubd E.
ln<'h. lpnJ: the- ~cnttr

~ L ~\loro~lkl to tht \--4...: ltnt
l"r.l" tiM' "houkkr ~t.attu~ 11 cornn of tht n.l
1f tllhot dart I~
Jkmo\\' th.. p..~ttem omJ ~'tmd ~houkkrhM
t~~:uldthnt .. tTht' ~r-..l.e-n ltrw tndi<:atn thor untrKt\1!-')th.'fn.l
\hilt thor
p;au~cn
dot"""'.._
()r.,..thtnn'"tllththondttomp:!tntH ~
"'''h tht ~ rwJco
-
nt:
~ 1.1p 1:-..-o J tbr C-0 llM.

C111 hr111:Cbon -om U~ep:&~
\41tt J'lr atilt"
tr.. ffl "llr '-"'1 a QE ... llw WI..
.- -
--:.-:--=-'
.
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-, ...Yc-..,........

I I
tbt r<J~nt frQIDI !bc;.;Jd tqv.art lUI

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t l'll"f\ I It-t W.l\1 IIH t-1 h tf '1. I I 11101 thr , ...... \-"""'"" till ]llllt_. lf"tl ! dl -' "lA<! h \r'rtl .... rrld Iff tht lW'Ib
c ''"' h rt t nw'f1\ I""'' "'' 11..- , ..>~ t o:r.n A , ,.., ,,.,,, ~~~~ u~ twl~ ,..,, ot ttw ., n .. ~ut n.
1
UnUo 'ftlu\ot"1nu ..,IJ'11 I ttl,. fo!a,,,,htlr... " ' " ' tlt tiM ~--~tw-lt<':Jnt.nObto & ~,.,_....,. wm
.. , ... f , , ,,,...
''11""' ''"'"" ............ fhll "'
1rt
.\n..alt t !lind t ""l._.,., tt-r 1'"-'"'""'' r~.,,

f.ound.lt...._ f....:b fl'CII It~,... 6t tt.. ..,......, .a1
I IIII I" J 1 In 1~Ut """f AUI hofftll_. k-(llfW' ttc-\. ,.._&I ttwy d iH
...,ill- 0-ot ~
....
'ltod:;;o ' ....
0'",
PANT TERMINOLOGY
,. rrnr- 11 '"'" l
hun~.! I ~ W\ .li'IIJ II
Jif'l ~ ' Ct..,.. nd b'.1tl!.lfa
n,. 1c
81fu.a1c:d 01\"ickd 1n1 two
( rot<h fH
1 dr ,, Hw
h .. I :iOn
plll'f'tt
liJht .-oo
C.mcch d t:pt h Ttw d tlnU' film
itt! tu t...a\r 1,f
lrtm ll'fHflt\1 h'l lht CttJ' t 1rplh
'''lfn
f .mtth lt:n~lh A l'nl".Uurff d u .. ,.,.

H~~t (f"n
tPf ftrlflt to.~ t., ,., lftd 114' )k h fN~, tn the' crr'M'
I~ t .,.,,,
t,
( rfl'l t h t_"t lf"nttfll Ar, C"Jt,. W.n tA thr tot(h Jtrw

' ( t ro l '!'f fl,.tn ud t.4f Untt1 linn tlwt prtftidn
II '14' ' I II' th ll'l 0 J>t" fJ( ,,... .....
frrMfhpmll }rd lltMtrathrHtfrWift
'''vld
n.c: hnt- tt'Jilr.d , Wrw, It""

~fJ/ ''lit p.:.r Jt1111Wf imh ..c:tr\S tht ptlit
h<Jito !Jw I Iff lloll( I fJI'llnt II) rfM t..l t(ll(h
t ,..,.._h Inti
"'
c"''.., .. "' \idt ...m r.tn.~nr hr trf.Jf .d ,,., p.nt

ln ... "'"' \..m btt~ ttw irz:t, ;
bllt:Ji
par
t lti't f
.-
kit
,,..,.,.., whrft kt' jf~tn ttw h<h
trr~h tA tht (11'11
II'I.Jot> .\ 1.1dt11
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r
6
l
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r,~
'.
M"r
fi'Ofil
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\\Ill< h l-mt luunot..ahun h.t tbf ~~ Mlhl
I hldlllJ,II i10 IW" ~~

thoflltf'llotlWII~ tn.. lhttutnllt taM I
t \h"ft\ltofl, \\ltkh
f"''
~~~ htfw ......:

11
'"'~"" ,,, th I.IJU" 1 not h """"' "'."'.,.,.,.,~
lfiC' I tOt' 1 ..... ~U\11" II f.'M'IIII thf U
tlr;urt ~~ r At h Inti
'f.Cc h t"ll ot\IIM1 hn:WW' lht
MEASURING FOR lHE PANl DRAFT
....
h i <IUU .I ~\.lnl It,. t'o ' ""1.11 h t . U\o\ It"' lll~f\I<IHHtl\ tll,t.l l o>llto U
''"" "'.~~''' 1u1 ,aa.,.,,""'ut

lf\.,\\1\ 11\"('11
"'w "''' Il,..,l< 1.,h

""'"~''"'"'1'h "'-.:
ltW'.I~I I\1\I('f\\ ,tu.n. \1._.
U \.o-11 .11"-l h'\\"'1'"'' t ..\
tllC'In ~'1\lk'f"l""- til\.t tlk \Unmh n '" "loi'J>\Ioll\lt1ot'ln'4 tho: .~ol~

;U\t.1 hlj' ll!'l.~ (')I. h lllO'.,I\Uffl"" nt II'\ "'"' 11"-"-111\ h k.U..""'\
I \ .tflll'"'' \\.tlt ~
\dt1 I .&
-4 ~ I !
b \ .- I""'" .tl\1
'-l'tt I_.,. t 1 .fl I I-I'll\\ "" ll\\
1111' IN
.4
Q I
k>tmuiO ... CIOICh ~Cutotlr

fla-.~Jtll ~ '*~hll' J'fu \ z\c:h
,....,,_._ Ntl '" '1Utlt htr
Tmut<r
'V!.. Illo.l
-~~~~' ' n..h
I .&
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a..u.~H~t-lr.htr
-.
I I h"" 11111
.. , ... h ... ,.,,,,
''"Wiltd
wt"'""'
lk1t.,ntl'k ~oUrt tnU\

tt~.il\1 "'""' 1'1 1'
cnu ffk'..IU I \tlkl\1 II tiiC' olill rrnu to lti>I"'T (If""-' tlun 10 .,.
ffOI'l:t~ll ,.. f!\Yll hip
a.~r.-'W'r-Ntf ~ No.J. tur n inu~ J.:.lnkh
11. 1""-t'M". "~oN 1\t~-
Ftoni-W'-~ ot rroru htp
~hd ~L hapk.'lf ,oruo'W ht O'f~thlf\1 ~W l\KL htJl. m lnu) I l mo.h lotc:~ 111
Ftoa~-!111dtct wbtt.~o., I ' ll'khJ\'II~Un..kiiUoarkl.kkl I,S i l'k.hforc.kh~O\('f l H
f-"'"'
<AW* ,_.,rt Tlw duOnR' HOlD ttloc' frool (IUt\h

tnlhc: \kk' ~m Jnd from t"-.k:L 4;.hlot~h p oult to \ kJC
trltrl ,ho..w.t _.;bUR frt~tr;r th.ln Uw tJJ"'Ptf th th mc:.Huf\'mtnl .., k-.a \1 tr. 1ht J mC'Kml' th;U folluw t~
'"" I"('"'''" l.lt\.llt u".a\ ,
hlt h~J'do:t"h tn\tfUllk>tt\. ' 5"~ \I

ll:f'lothl .1U m~:J\OII {ttM:f\h '"' ~ t"'t'l\ t-.tlht: "'" ""trc-mt:nt tl'l.lln
In Itk' !'l.k l. t>f HI<\' I"-"'l4r.
Vortleollongth Moowromot\ts (Rocord on

MOO$Uromont Cnott)- Porsonol or Form
p.1~ ~'l.l. r ~rt
._.,
Trouwr
! I
anctla n'IClft"
''k-, mo,,..u,, Uu ,,..n,w.htK ktl lllh k~o...att11n"'
Six~
1 1 .t tnch..-1 ~riC*
I tO 1 1 ! ~ t '' conrout h i .ind .lhl>\ll ! lndk.-, lo r ll n!l.. \ t'\1 111
) c~n;
With tlw n~ t ,t l lll'l'"'' ('nd I th\: 1.11~ p~nl "'-''',..,. .,_..,,.., '"" ~~
to anl.lf' ll'tl)tlh IZ7l

1~
r M.IJ kwph: JM uut ..'tl k1h;1h \houkl mf,nur-r Jt IN\1 the ~tnt ,h t h e tmm or ti~ture. II It d Ck':\ n 04,
.,.dtj ttk ntt1kod mount to lhco hown p.nr rn ~~ tmll,,llrtl ' '~ ('IJ.;tt ~S 2. 11!(\11(' ll:
l'tl\ h lbt- b.<'. ~1\1
o~r>Jr"; tc-nd
the h.k ~
l b, otlld .l.
l WI\h flntnt cqu,tlly. IMI'r W JM8t $8Z,
Zb,
ncl '
'lrouM'r.
f l>t('nd lr~ nt
I he tt"(t f1t \hlUid he l\11 111 h rm l.o~brtt n ll\ut ln l.nn Put t h e ~ Utc hrtJ p.m t (Ill tht tlg ut(' o r form
With .. \\ ..l\1 lu.rwJ nd il I"'. llf'SIIrt j(J( tht f,.n l..ltlun ht A ~Uld(' In fJUing ,nu t f~ l l(tll (Ofh'Ct iOU\ \l:lfh 0 11
I"'AA" ~~
( '~" ' "' IIi.'~ \.. to
-...

...........
\lll' \t J IIl
1111' ""- (2 \} 11n m.ul.. r lwll"\ w.th t ,11u :IH\'t

.and bMl W U h 110'"'' rtllly.
_..,..
lntnhllo.IH'"' t271
\\l1ht llf\ ( I '~) t onhf lu>n l to 'l.idl ~.11n .

F igut\'12~.
flnm t27)
Clreumloroneo Moosuromonts
rth h the boloi. p..l lll lffkl t11 p.lll:t" ~ kl }lltU I\"\ 2,1,
_ ,.,
Ctt\1\l u t \\ tt\t\t jl.lfl til til \' h it :\1\,-,1\UI\' .n thh k'lt'l.
n :tUCt 11111\1 IC I \ltlc> '~'.UII

f 4'11h' f ll.ll.. h i \ldl' \o\',1111
UpJW'f thl~lt (.!'1) 1\t'_.ll 1"'h II 1\lo
Ct
Mhlthl~h 121)1 lk'l\\"'n 'tdh h .mtl "'"-'

.,lll't' l \Ill \11;1-lo.mv k t -1:1.
0Jtll t 11! \\ 1\I'IJl.HI 11\ lm \.!h'\"
\11\.1( l '-'1
IIQI.J't'" ~d ll
( mh h lnt~lh
"' ,,mn I,.., t.
t'~' ( '''" t
,,.... ,, ' 11"'
1' 1 , n .e,JI
I Jill I ' ,I
CULOTIE- FOUNDATION 1
\\ h t nlt 1!1\l ln.lmo h hlo!l\.ltolt '"' """"'" l utt.t.
1!\\\ lt\. II 1'1,1\ Ulll,.\ltlo"'\,olt4t 111111 hlll"'"l"ll hl
t l11m h l'l o.ll l\.~111 \ \ lf~llll'l Ill l'lol\ !~""'" lhll ... A\
l11th lulloii."I\Jol,l!ttll~~o,l\tll,f' lltl\lultn lho ok-"1
l't'lllt Itt <>I tho ou\nti\UIM II \.tt~.t"ll .I\ tho oMt lo.lnl
1\,1111, l'lhloh l"''"'"'t"l tlft
\\Uh tt~,t\illlotm
'h"''''
111"1111\ tho 11.1rllll ll' jl.llll ~'~ .klqotl"' ,,., U~o~.
rtM"' f"' 'of IhJtl 1" '" ~o.l \o '-4"' \t lui .11" 1101 ... Ito. I 1'1 " '
ll w lll~llllt th_.t tt ' "' .UI\or 11 t.nhl<-"'1 th on ~I\ tor
kotl"otho ..\tUItkltllt\\\ ~IIIM.IIh hunUI~I"
... Ill"'''"'"'' Hit ...~,, lhltl

lh
oth f<OUIM.~I Io<!o!l h '" ,, ... , ,." ht"ll ""U.
\ ...... 0\.111 '"'~'''' I\'"''''"''''"'""''( ..~'"""'
1111 .- '1.\.ltll!l.f' 1"'-" II\ &oot.. ...,tnc Ihot' hi\11\AH""'
.I
Ht..
I!
IfI\ I I I 1101 t. ..111d Il k"' I I\ l.l'ol'\l _., " l\ol~ t.101 I tw tr.a.l1
, .... ull~ \ tltl,Unl Ul..illli ..llo\ll;>t llonitH, "'"" Ut1>
In( hn11,1l" "'"' ....... '"'('lt"itiiC IMmiU'" I 1.1'--tl..
, ...,."" ' "'" I"' n ""1\llt'., \Jo\\

\t, ,ruorrffflfll \ n ... J
"'..
'!'Itt
(hl4\ h \l. t14 h
, .., I\
1 I l ln,h"'l '-'. 1\aJI.
\'U
......
Culollo 0 101t
~ 1n1 h,ll ,,. Ill\' lhllt m.tt ..~o~. ~ il\i14h -'" """"'
...
( v
\h:t\11h ,.,, ..,HII ~ln.t 111
l'oltfdlh ,,., ,1,,1 tunl.tn,ll\1. \ li m ,1.,,11 11.J
lrt lhr f, ....
,, .-hi '"'"''
WI'
Pl.lo:' {J
S72
COOP'~' 26
r--~ r--;--iA
t """" '
TROUSER-FOUNDATION 2
llr U\M~ h A r;~ru tlut tun11' ,,,,.,,ht ~1l<1rd hom tbt-wttrmt~~M Pb1 ~ tht'~ nd bttttoclu. h
fit\ t~t to th~ 1~"-'l thn dl"t' a ruluU~ btouu-.t~ hnnt <:mtthhtmM<tn l\\hont'f Thb putt ~bt om
In h\ t'lft"w-m torn1 4'lf n1(111.h[k'll ht c>tl\d (\lnt ~~~\. wch tlk ~lt6tfW)In. .n4 tht ~ 1er Pw
Dhicn' It '' ~ho u\C'tt n b.li"t !(lor f"'nl d\'11\.atf\n wch fltht \hl:n., OW j1~. lM lmnudl.. md rht
ptdll llllt\1~
,_,.Otlf
\IUWIC'M1~111\ nt't'd<lor ti'M: dtilll .au: nutrd b'l ~t"mU ~'" tht: ftWhurtmtrn <han to Ul.t pant
mt.ll\ur~mttm. ' Pllt'' ~.and '7U ~ C h"f" r 1 to dt'lrtml.nt Jlft)ONII d.t..'"'t '"Uk. lllb ~ 6:0 to6.1.S
601 I I11Un~ ,.Ukk
Meowt.monts Nil '*1

tl?t \\<lnt IO.t.nUt 1.!~
I ( IC'IC(h ~h
12. It .1M I hll' <lh:
f --
!be: .. htp .u..
tt9t r ttl(tt .am ..,c _
'
ll.ld. "".IJ1-t .ttc _

f'ltr~.ll ft-u~ dun ,...a\UfUntnb '"' thr d.trt
lmal~fp;l(.~ .. "' \tW I <lin<hiOf~.l\of lllh.w~tlw
Nd. d.lllmt.al~ II .. ln<h II 4.lt01Jothn tM Abnt'.l
--------------~
0~-~_jE
fogva 2 eoc:...
r~ 0-8 1"-'' tron t p.-nc""
G-H 001:-twU o; ~J.. b&Wc hlp phn ~ 'o& lrKh.
...qwrll"d tr-:111'1 ~
f-J
(i-ff. "!~rtd lf)ftl J ( OOI"W'<1 J W1th tl
c;...:\,
11--.\ 1tM trom p.lltttn ,,_.,,
c,~
......,
'~
----<J~
-----~;
- - - -
oc-.,...,._
Tf'OUSGf Ot'Oft
ro-et
\~B
Y.JI\I IO.IRUt lp.;IRI kfl.J{th).
AO
notch d(l)th 11lu'

''"h t.a't( 1' ;ann.
ht p \l~pt h . onot-thht.l ut ll- \
S.nt.'\' l.ktnh or~hall ~~ B-oll pl\l) ' inch
0-C'
1\..1
"t
'
'
(IO".UtJ UOICh 1\'\(1\
5quJfl' WI hom hoth \ld(:\ flf A. 8, C. 0 . ,mt.l I~
1 l.Hn'-h dl.ll(>n.tl lot' f)fJy. thr untth

nut ft ,,, 111 ,m.J rnt.l!nll; .11 ut
'
cuJ'~ brJtMlnJI
RNIIht'
\point
I U1 l{lf <l 1M! fll
I 3/o& O
---
,....,.
PANlS
1'~
....
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l~l.fll(tl~hl\ l.flntlli l .h('l
II
c.
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I"'"'
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C. \
tllllt' lwll llf Co-11
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tl!W-haff -' Co ll
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'"'"' h lllf>ht\ 1/4 lnd h'.l'>''lUIIH.' oil\ (
Y llll:' ' " (
1\'- \
J
I
I n1111
I f.. lmh'-l.fii.U"'I\I j)lff>tiiN
t... \
tm~h;~lfof h-1
~. \I
otM
c,
Ill~ thf. ( rnuh <'UI',- hQ!fl" to"\. VJuthm~
l-ln;:h,lu.:om~lli t1(1~\\l,fttul,'41t~llk
\11("\ 111-.dt"f 1i II
,,.. '
II l-!Kh~\111~
... bkn.l~ .... t
1\t.t\\ ll't thl\h ''"'"' hiMtlllu \, lloiklun

,,. lo6t't\I.UIIIt .ll I
fuuuh ll t...-1)
....
.... l
l)f.l"' llrM" lll\1!1 ' In X 1111 h "( 11 In ci
( mmt'l;l t... "''"I
C INIIW'II I Co \ \ t i t! fl
"
oo
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'
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fq.l<OJ
IJ;l(l. IMrl tnt.1L r h,
u~
lk'non.al d.arhJ
ll.f tn..h \l.u L
' -()
1\Jb l mc-<~ulrt"flltu l t"lftn" I .f ,,. h\'1
' -P
l uH..ho
I Q
I -k
\l;ul. I !11\h unJLt lot t.tr.h d.trl

.md \ fMC\' I I 'of tn' hn o~pan
MaJL n rllt "

.J 112 liM tin
'
UM' I~r~n!.t l
I nml I>MI h ll.tlrr., ior
ll '
".lhl tncw~-u r, mNII , ptu .. I Il-l i nch~'

l htt.h\\ ~ I .Hl 1 /ZI n~ h hlli.lll.(' l m c;l1.h dJrl
~tthl 'fMU' 1 I N lmht'' .1p.u1.
M,nL ll'lllll\ 111 " ''l h d.IU .unl '>CJU:Ul' do'' n .l lnrh t~.
T T-
'
1/1
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fl.-\( I
'
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fi(J\IU) 6 lkte\c ond

Wootft)S
01.1\\' .1 \U)thl lll\\,llll U U\\d lint frll(ll \ h, 0
1/2
II>
r . ---,l
lf
(lr,11\ J.u\ k't\ IP !he

idmt 1 ' t.hr'f'tco! ~
l)t.m .1 '-IIKhl i u\\,th l H ll'- t'll ll nl lwrn I 4 lll("h

IM' It)W I h q,
OA 0
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ol
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"
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ul .-.1d1 d.l11 .-.nd "fUJ,U dnn n
515
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t,r.i(' ....
1'''"" tur,"Unl"'t\0''"-"'"-t'- r. """'nJ ' Q
,Pour
576
(;'hoOfN
26
SLACK-FOUNDATION 3
(loOt-oha lf o' I)-I f'IIU' ll.f Inch \<tltlltl' UJI ,and

dtt'l\l\ trom \ c~rJinllnt.
'
1llt' \I,M:l. IOUI\\I.llklrl hi~ ~\ltMf tO lht i!JtUI\" tNn
,hl'lrter~:d '"'"'"''Of' toll+~"'
r--'\0 Ar0'----,/1 ,-----,
41~ tht lll'll.l'otf ~of ih0f1(1 (IOlC'h 0.11'1'1~ Tht
'l!ttht lUm)if\!t under thr t-unnt:._,, <tt.atiJ\s ttw ~._-, ~~~ f1t ,.,..., dtsiln'
ho~'lo\'d on til" ' I.Kl. h.t\f" ~ tl.a\\k ~~~'lt'.al to "10\1 'fl-omtn \"'-PC"(:l.alh- t.holot "'00 .a,~ unc;ornfcn-. 1ft tht loc:M
UOO\ott 11nd It)\" t'(mtf'Urhttt-d ~n l ht \.\ac:\.f<'ll.lndat'M n b '~n 'tn~tdt. h ~"be .-onuubahtd c. *'.tpttd
10tt"lnl~\04hH (UIOI dniV\\I'I(_"t J~t'l '""~-~-Ill\ .a~~ biJtt"J p.anl ckm~'t'_\Ut'h~tbt\ohon_

II~ J;un.llc.ol, .lnd ltk' IK"'J.tlfN~'C"t. to IWme .a~ lllb I'll~ 6:0to W kx I fillln.t~-
Slock 0.011
'*""'' ttw2
lrJoC.'t'
ft'il'fll.tnd hac:l. tiOU'Kt. OOHHlOJ! d.anS

10 t~ WOr w.an \k"-11h tht f"Unn "'lft.lt iiiU\HI.Unn olnd mt..Wifllto\U .t\ .. p.ldt_
ctow\t
'h.lckod .U(:ol\ '""k.ltt

.ttl' 011
~II\ (l( tht- r-auun th.tt
;ll~.t)
lf~"-tn ltnn ~ttlft..ll pastnn ~

~rid !Anrl.~l;f: sl1. ~
, , . ~.and ..add sta-. .allotil"a(.~ k't :n~"nl(

liiOft\,. " " pH:n
pl:ft !19'0
'
and
56-l Set ~ ~ lor

for "'''"tt 1ft
1 ~ ~
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Ctctc"
0
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1/'2
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41f1
1 11
FROHI TROUSER
tAC .. IJIQUS.(J
I
I
:~"' band. Jor fh
17
'.
N\J\11$
JEAN-FOUNDATION 4
~~ <;.~; l~,p~n:
""" tantl\t"'.., ' 11'4' th< ,,...~,~.al llllof\li. }{oUI t'('ll t"lh-'111 11.-tc- "-I;lilt(~ 1 Jtl.d I'>.:Jol'>l
....,, 41 "~IDI."'II 1'\1 .... h
ttk , ........,, I&I'IU :11 nd otolhort f'lllll ,~.; n ''""'
~ i"'.a::' t-~1 h' ('.!\
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..
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; - \\"'''~ lok
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No.t. tur .at\

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~ \ "'f':' tto ( "! f'bo l-1
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.... ~ t lit\.:,.- pwt knJth..

l~d't drpth ,~,~tocr.a..l l -1 llkh 101' hlahH
\lot'(
.:
f'...t
~n ~rch on--h.au '-" 1-1) rh.' 1 1n~h

th'h.l"' lh. ~UOih~ ~OUl IW~nt bo1th \l<tll'\ otl
fcc~ 0\'ft
H \UtotU(t 1 11-
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f:'''"l"
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t '" lm.tn...,
t\ololo. h ,lht o\h, )lhl\ I ltkh
l\ I'
t14W
t\1
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l(l ' .! "'-h
1\.t(l.
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halt<'~ .. t """ I -: u.-t'l 1\<1\qt..t 11
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""'
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Wolst ond Dorttnok;o

tf 1"''"'"- l' .llhl R 11~..-t ''' ''' \-il.lt'l"""' \ dolO t N ..11..t.r~ \J
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'-An'lot .... (
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COMPLETING THE PANT

PAnERN
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How to Bo4once lhe Ponl Pot1erns

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tflt:u ~ !14nd .ttldln~ to Htl'
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Seam Allowance
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h'!Uodlh'" .-dd ...,..alft\cJut,1h ''~~'elk nm\Jm
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PANT DESIG NS
Pofforn "'ot Ond MonlpolotiOtl
Sox-Pleated Culotte
lt~ot1f:''' cl\olttlhl" ''l'llt''' ltw thr.111 bt. \tp.ar.at~l)'
Design Anoly.sls
lhf' pant h~\. ~ u:nt,t lmm t)l'' Jl4~.u \tltthfd 1p1Ut."l~hnllltiy \ lfkhl"\ htktW Ill( 1'1.111~ l'JWlUl.,tt
Ftgor 4 $rloatd
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1~"-"'' t.m lh<' rl.:lu C'f l('fl ~ldf'cof tht nnh~r front.
l'll'n(' tht
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tncl'lt"\ of 'Wl>!\llu~ llkol.m linn mcliUtt part nf
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Pleporlng for the Test Flt

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PoMtn Plot ones Monioutotlon
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\4 .. m, ltt;;tNiwt lolibhhtR will ~hub.~ an o~ltlan.
IIW tHm, foumloHic~n ''' th' JII\Jtl.'\1

t H'IUwl ,JII II<' llw h,l'o(' f11t lh\ hil' ht'f'
p~~nt lhl' \\,thtlhw
t..\m h'' JU(tt.:J"" lot
1101 \Cih h~IIJ; Ilk' \\.ll\1 tl.lll\ .Ukl 1'1\

tf,llj;littflhiJ: the' lliJ'I c lll\\ \ Jlll t.."TIIIfl
lim"\
lht hh 1\',1\.\'\l \\oll\1
t..JII"'' tit('
~111
Ill\'-''''" 1\1\ tl1
l ol \lhJI hi hill h ''" 11'1\
~.o.-t~;th ,ukt t..t..hlth ul thr 1'-Aill 1, .; ,.,...
ti~AIC
A ~ IIJII t1'!1'A
>I
\h.ll"'-"' '" .k<J~n '"'' hn ""' 1 w th

Itltlll~lall ... hi \ h .lh' \ '"" ' ' " " .... ,.,., !(,
h'! h' ( h.tJ>h't I !1'1:
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I'"'
I"'K"' '"'14 "" "" "'''1utkl
,..,.It\ '"" ,,,. 1hf
lh ,~othiiUot...,. '\I\"" 11'1"'' ltn~o.t"'"~'
----
Ponorn PlOt ond MonfpuloUon
Putt-On Pont wth Sett.Coslng
''"'""~,.,,, \'tnh'fl
D<>t~gn Anolvsb
,1, pull-on ~nl h. t-l.l\11( IO\ol'f1t-d In ol wlt-c.. ~llJ:
CJU!oll'll: .I \ll(hl
fqu<.. l. 2
l.atn d!rn
~thtfin~ .11 thot: ~UI\WI'M
th.U Jc. a
r.-.nt 'l.hol.iid tJf nll 1ft .I fltfn \nit .111d
1
df'\'dtlprd
uuru;
liM ll.IIU!;JI '-.tl\l!iJ)I
f,,
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n f
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lry
.md un "'Y
~~m f, .11.1 !l<IJitil>tl 0II k-J,:li.IH
\l)tl lhlllj JIII t~RI,. t

tho 1...: '"' !hot hnhl 1!4
1tv I trwtr '"'""'""I"*'"'
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f. i
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\\.llhtllrtt t'\ltmh till\~
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t>&.\UU
II.Hik . \\kllh
I inch l.f;'11Jtlh \'l.li\1 tnt4j4Jf~
nM"nt k-\' l Ill lnthf'\ l''IC' 1/l mch for <1'1:-I~P-
,,,..
,...,..
.. 11'"
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J~)IJ tl
'9"'"'
3. 4
\\'h('n c;ut In" fltm l..nU.tumtht pJUtrn h.tudtd
~rt.'.nl b~ toU.>"Ing ttM. illu,tto~tloo .... nor more
lllffPrmJitf"l tun~t'tnhlK nln, 'lol"\' C h.:.ptt't ZH 1
tt:\t
tn.
I :;'
..
"'
fQ,I'$ !i Cr:l\.".g
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tl llt
n~n l w .. ,.:.tt1y p.n 'A t,..d\ n '''
'""*
IIIM'r1 t-IM\IK
f9'' ..
P<IHorn Plot ond Monlpulotlon

flgutf)t In c
l ......
e~cr
' /
lrilh h1JII .uul b.n \. IJ.IIII

ft;t(\,, .unl \ldl \t"lll\\
H_,fc:I!O!::::;::.'l---\
"'
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~1
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"''h thr rror.t un 1h kJid anll bknd
IJ.Iu2: l /2htth"'''''"4hlunt
"
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and
-t h
4in' M
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ttw ....m aJ.
........,
\o).1
fQ.I"tJII 40 tl
C \II lht lalnll
f )r:.w .J lint' IM,tlld H1th1~ ~.l i\IUnt'.
!~DC!~ ~ ttx ....,.
lAC
UIJI tht p.~muu vpw.lhl,ttl'ltthiiiJI untrr h<>nt .
;'
....,.,. .....
1LKt ttw Ladnz. mdallc
nOD
Utdw ato~ln h nt .. nd crml)lk-tt t he I~H~trn for ~
,,...
''*''"'
u" tl""' nn ,,, ,.,.. .:u,n,,. """"'
Ooslgn AnOOv>'
f \tend thC' "'.tht utll/-1 ln(tH!'\ tf~ 1- loch-wM.it'
tJ
l>w
tht,.ch th c"m'" ,11 ~..-tJ in 1,,
th hl,h "'11'"'
\11\" 114 nc:h rill lll>llnt:h , 1111 '"'"' ~to ..0.
\r-.1"1
h.cc. hunt ml b~tl ).lt; k lotmt111tlon
(Nnt tc'll,ltkl.IUIfl lhr .,.,.... ,
~nt K 1U""Pt~
f~JI,., ,,,
f2t \\'o~l\llhH: t h tumfu~mc. - - - - - - -
~ fk\lto e>fi\M ~n-tc:h Tbt pull<4>n ("111 un 1-.

1.11\
HlghWolst Pont
1.1'1r't lr1t
Vot601k)n I
Jean with VYoko
\\,oi \1 IMml jt..llltfll
oiU'oll \ I oiii\
n*' \ _, , 1, h IJ,I!M"\1 c!l tht
I J ll
lh1 \\.lh.l II.Oillllllt.ti ~Ui tlll\ Ill \ ,uo ltot \Ftl

..n ..u 1 It \ ..tlltliun 1 ,,. 1 h, IIMn, ll\0
lnt.uli l.tlhn II hi'
'~''"'''"'' ~-,1.:: ,,,,,,uu ... ,,,,h "''hi '"'"'h tl.lol '"''
.11 \lt\1111: okp lh\ l duM. Ill!" '',11\1 l c~tlim \h..ljM.\

4t..Ut, t..l('rft"l ;~~n.l tlar"'t
dK '"'" ' ' " !Itt' ""hirll\
...,.
PotiOn'l PIO! ol\d MonlQUloUon
lll \\,tl\1 /('1 d
,utd I Ill imht\olu~ll
OesiQn ,\nolysis
1 4
fllt>t'\1
6111
f'(J ... J
I
11'1
..,\"..\till '11\1 ~~~\ tllll""' ~ .. ....., ~ "'~"" , ...,. '

il'hiiii\IIU !\
'" ' F=-lt=...::=\

....
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I 1(2 ..
fl()!l
1.'1
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hit't th,.hnnl.alldhotl' tl.oillll.llll
ThtOO VOriofk)n$ Of WOI:S.t Bond ~I
IJUtlt I lit tMdtm 1! l)h al\t 11 II\ \'.-rl

.aliUI\\ I' 1 .llld '
l)f.fiW Ill li,K l \Oio , ot\ \IIOMil
I POUI
\~IMWl\ I.,!~ i~C\M,.. ...",... """'" t-.a11oh tr<ll

111hkh tonho,..._, \ """'""' I tuiJINI ..t~-d '"'1\'IC'I' rAI
,.,.,. ,,., ln.llfflf " '... tlf(('
.....
~4'
ll.t11l h~lllw '"' 11.. IMIIIIIJOt~o~ lll,...h
\ tf'4W.rrnM'111 \C'f'l.kd
t C 'rtlfor_ ~ II'Wh I
1.,,,...,.,. ,....nutt"'" u1 plu'!. uhn
lt wolh'J,III"' ., '" 'lttd t,.41ll h !C'\I

tl.unl ka "' 1h_,.t"l iutwtoul l1011o-t, n
1111"\J
\IQIIotiOn2
\\ .. t\1 h.uwl r.utt"nt clln\'\J ,)ll'.ll ~ill\ I lndt bdCJ<
"':("~ , _
''""" .......u ..........kith 1111
'"""'".. "''"'"' .adt\lflll'llt

\lt\t t.h.anan tu th<l' I"'"""'
Moll\1 1.-H I fht ""MIIh elf tit\: l\olhl /lr,ll"' I' I 1/l.
lt,cllo"\ \f'-M~I JIN h ltllllnl<'\1
,,, "' auMilr. uw ~"u' , ..... "'ni.th ''"

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ri(JJ 2
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IH.t"" lito hunt II~ I liZ itlo\ht\ lllo

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oon
hH h lcmjt\ 1 th.lltthr 111'1"'' lu

II PI" I, 1\ ht tu IMJ:l"'o .,,,oe, of,N
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\t-
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--
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SOporoto I"O PotiOinJ
flg,Mf)\ 31-l, b. C
VOrlol\on 3
w,,tu /l,m.l l\ 111 t!r lntrtf" "'
\\'.tl\1 h.md j1.111Cffl flh ll'd .Uf.'.l) h\.RIU\ i hlflu.;'

tluwn hnm tlw t tnltr hunt, 2 1/Zim h~\ du"' n IWill
\ldl' .,.,,.,u, <'lid WthJIIIy tml\ lnrhl'\ cJown t h t
t~nll 1 h.w. \. \IMdt"C..liH'' h tlhnm~J .
Ct
SJ,tl h Ill\ IIIXUh' I.1J.
t low l ht tl.nl
I~'K' '" "' \hk \1."1111
(111(\IH' ,h,,
( 111 1111' w,tl\1 h.Uttl Hlllt'll ,m..ll 11111\\ tht
II ,IU ' l \\'fl t<tp h'\ 111 lhr ,.,dhl l1,.111d

tutt) 'tuh .tl 1 Il iff hntll un tilt
lijthl flollll !VIII I h1 ~11>1101 H>ll) I\
\ hll'
'I
' 111
lrtnh I If.! 1!11 hr\ 11J1 tl!r h II ,..,1, "I
v--- 1,::~---:
1 tu 1'1111
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c.- c:
'
1ton1 Joan Poc-lrot

It7 f' ,.n ~- lo1 1 Ul\1\ll<~'f'd In f-,Uf~ 7, It
'IHf
'Sot'-f"Y..otYJ or....:JI"~ p..,...~..

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br.,.. rtw tdnal ~ Vw~t~~ lh.iru

U
nd 'I
Cr/,..9tli'fo(JI"'-A ~ PT-9'~4
tr fl
.,.... thP l.-111 ""~." .H \hrJWR.

Tr.._ fbr IMin.l .ad 1tm1 P"'lrt 1.-t.t aart .ada
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01.
00 tl)l' plont
tAOI d>r pod<!"" lbo f:tGl tbr poci.d (Unrft_
--
POC~'t.it ~~ f
r0
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'no
ln.wdlrprJI ' ~mo.ryuw cthr~'

rA IDrA't\~ .H J ~
~ Wit' Ad
wc.tif..n f 7!llr UJI.
h.ett',WJ-:i .,ld M:5d 1 z.tnch ....-.m 1 ~ nO
ttJ.t "'f:t' )
fq/ei'YJ r.. P......:.;rr' ~"'"'9 (i."'f("'J)
Yll ht ~ ... ,,, X.
flt'.. \1\ I !Jt Jll,tl( ~ 1-t ~ ~ lfl,l( iltftlfl}fl IJ'o.JTI~ l)W rfi~
twtmrt '1 ;iftf'ltf- /.II .. ~~.
,._,. l!,.t t.c T"i t-.,c, fl1
t..t... nd oldd at Z.,.,(l(h \ll"rn lJ n.t,. ~b,
If,,..
r;
..)
61 o
cnopOf 26
PAUlS
Sewing lhe Jean Pockets

f': 't"> 'OO lhrt"MIJ:h ~em "hoi:mkl tk. rf',td lit! ~uH_I,HK C'
~
... n II'"" iU.III 161 fUI IIIIJI ,uUI \Ill( ht!IJ;
111
pn., ...u . ..,. "'
ftQUfOS 30 b
,~
f'ulthtlll'''' llCKl<'t Itt tfno r i~ht s.ldl'C.:J lhC' (;King.

tHH"fill~ IIW flCK}..tt ITM!l.<, .111d dOubk'-\liiCh
(I i,l:tlll' ~.J).
WMie rn Pocket
f.gves I 0 b
\4\\ "liiIOtdiiJ; IH lhe< j)CJCI..Ci linin~, with nslll

,ltk"'- loK.Inf: t1 i~llft' UIJ
I'
k'lld ('fllf\ !tC'.Im 1 4 IO(h .and I< tid J~ln It'\"

;uW dt'luMrSUtt h hlld elk h"ffl.tlflhH: \kk'
12ullhlh,curt l.al_
l'in cht- J'O'Lrl tO rtw 1~o~.nl c-"nftUll: nurh .uW
dM,Ibk--\hllh tn plJll oii(\U' I ttl
--'I
-D
./
f<ICing 10 lhe Ponl Pocket

f9J1.. 40.b
....
61 I
Foclng ond nom Pocko t
"'"" lh(: Urlnl~ to thco PJnl J'O'.l.fl "-llh right skio

l;ktllll, fH~uw <4.11) .
fum tlk' lkXLCI fdf:mg:md ~1.1) Stitch (figurC' 4b)
f
Contour Pont with Croosehne Flore

Oos:lgn Anotvll
l ht umH"u ll<ollill tk\iKII h .Jth!c''"' h~ t("m("lfltt
Ilk bUUCit l.\ \ lo1 .I .,._ ollll lt'll'1lnJ:
('1,(.'\\ lll~ltlllntlll
tltm/1..., ,,..,.._ I \tcnc,l httl'!ht!C' 1 1 f21n(hn I!'noon

ne lt\\l \lt~~!.ltt: ck,...n 1 112 in<hn fwm thcHt..-tln \t,uL,. \1~~Wit' ckw.n 112: tn..h ,_, tht
'idol.' ~-rn ""'" l)t.a-w \tTI~ht hflt'\ twm tnllr\.\
IJ \no."'-' levk ll"w a C\lf'\((1 h~mlinr.
tiU IJ.ttl. Ul'.!i\(lhw lhl p.ml l'l<!mlhlt n~lt'\ I!Ul ~~

lilt' "ldt omd ~~k '-t'j;tnlh~o~:\, lh'$'1Jint: )t"' .u th1.
t('1U(t h.l~ 1.. ,Uioi.l Ji\IIIJ; <II :nit 1 lllnl I h~ c,k"\1~ h
l~w.,t tMI tl.,. \I.M. ~ tuurkl.;ttun
f<g<lo2
Pottorn PSot ond Monapvlot'Of'l

fiQUie t
fv-'9 3
lr~t: tht ~nt had. ftom unc:.m 10 nut\llnt"
~ot_'f\ hn+l' ndk.rt~ unuaud w..t..-11'1.1 '~-v-:t

th<- f"Olt'\\ lt')f '"~"l tht p&tlt
lrkc-tht PM",~ ....,
I J.kC' Iht ~Ill l~o~~. -._ In..-n u..k "'c j;Jn tfl Cttb:III'M'
tbro-lt-n lint' h.Jit~tt'\ lh untrN ~lont
\tnlt "-art tu t~ uc:,...._lt~ to '~"'~ thruu~th
Uw- thklitM'
\h.l~llc In lil11Kh lwm ttw uuwluiC',., u11Co;h
k-\c-1 ''"'hi:! \
ll.,tftiiiiA.\ Hlflf<!lltl I t~Hn t'lllllnt ,\, dt.ll" -'ll 10""411.1
UU\t hkrt\tlll l'rllh ,m CIUI""-'11.1 (Uf\'C' tn th<r
tbll JlCJIAI ( PIHIIIIk thl." (\U\C' ftont 'IU l.nf't
r.nntd~ 11
1: .,..._..,_
~~ ~ ...nd !llnUUI. '~ dul+ln I! h .it1
--
eh n-s Or.no: ">t.Wdrt ~ !Mal at.h lb&ll. ,.,

~ ~d lltnd.n "'"".t CW\"t .Mlbt- hcml!M
rut tbt- p.ant ~tnT'!\
unnttdtd 11KOOM.
1~ ~ ~
er. ~ .IDd a..pltV
lht ~tttft) b .. t~ fit
h:\d
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A-Jo".,I
fi
...
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'1/2
lfGm Pocket
rq,..,2o b
foltJ the t'nl" ..._.am I .f tnrh -nd hl'ld
Complollng lho Pocket

'*ICIIn
l'rl'1\ OJOd d-fNbiC:\IIU h I .tgUJt' l..1
old tht' rf"m.uncna v-.1m' l.lruh .uttl llfl"\\

rngu n 2bJ.
fiQure {;
'hu n t h "-' JiJrU w.t)' hum llOCkct entry,
l'tn t h t IKXkct h.J~kf ng to lht entry lining and
\Cih;h I inhh Uit> I.IW t'i;l)tt"\.
'~
1
A ow .,.,.In~ R"KI-t fm t lh
lil'llt I h hU J).l~\ ...~#<,; 11W
tUht h .nd h
Ull I"'J:-t'
~"~ lll< l lht lurrJl\<tn '"'
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61
O'<JC'll'
26
Short.Jomoco. and Bermuda Ponts

1 ht 111111 '" t>.Ktl ptnl I\ lll~r.t1t-.d ~'hoi\ lflt \IJh1h tApt:rcd lrt,l nt"\ Ow fi~nKtittrt\ ahG.ti'Ph o the batt.
~nt 1 htc lllloi'Hftlt p.illl\ c~n ,,., HWIIJIwd lA nu\.mt \hf: It ll nt\ ,....,..., '-"~ IU.rr<IIWc~ th.an iJhrl.tr-.~~ nd ti'X'
\\11\thn,- htJ:htt nc ~~:r than thr t~hul ...,..u,rw
lltm ~lkw-'*Kr t\ I to 1 1 2 ll'l<llt:1 I old tlw
at Uw 'o.ut' '-""t"h aod tutt the U'Kal'llllo and outw~m\ l 'nfnld tht p.antm lu tCmr'rt\" thr p.~tt~;m\ rdn 10 par. eo.,.., f:or "-'"' bard <:om.~ k>r "f'PM
'*''Nn
$h0(1 St>otts
f9Je$ I 2
.._ ,.,..~, ,n 'k
Tra
td\"r ,., PI~"' ,,., 1n..l ~w.

J)rot"
She<!
F9Je1
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rornt'
llllr...ld:
tJw moc..h CU4"~..and '"t tt-m ~'
~ 10
lt.a tht: pan\ ~'J
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~h nd Uptt ti'W kd cat
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l rtm 1 ~ .nch ,.! nwl'ftl. r-ndln~ .JHtut(h putnt

IU:'tt.M.t' o~nd bkftd lkm.
.md 1 of u\C.:h _._, mtt)
Wd 1 ~. aru.h
..
"'rm
..
Bel modO Por\1

f~ ' ~
Jr...,_,
and~'- tl
JqJe S 80( ' ocrog
'
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lr...._lf r-4 Jtci.Milnl: 10 ~ wOh M I

h
Add I Undl ~Mid., m1" .add I 4
- ~- -
tho ;1..1'l l ' 'tho.
l'ctmuoJI ~
"'"
fOC'"9 I
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P.ANlS
PedOIPushers. Toreodor Pants.

ond Capri Ponts
Design VOrlollons
pg"rvonts
., \'('nt 1._ " tr~nlng ;11 t ilt' \k:k' ~~.m1 of ~ht ~"'
J:h In,: (.1~ (11 t'tUf\ for dtl'\l'h' flll('(l k-,R.hnn. 1 ht
kr~th til .lit~ IIU\ Will b frC\nlliO .J lnd~ f~lllg~

~hvukll~t .u k-o~lt 1/llnth oovnd the k>n&th of the
\ ;u I Xill}t\ c.ul tl(' tJ.t('t'd \("l))fll~l)'. I o ld lite htn\
u~,~ o~rd .aOO tr~ttht U\k' M".l-111' 01nd inlo('.an" <h-er

k" ~ .and u.,.,,..,tllch Ilit w-m'
CaP<I
Fqe6
T1"f' th<' runt IO thor c:a.pd kngth
~..... lolpn ~lfln..
I
IOteodo<
fq05
lr.kt' tht" pull tCliiH.'
lorc.wlOI knJtth and
""
I.IJ'It'f ''"'' hlt'\
... s
: - f!O!Ch
Pedal-Pushers
Four a
..
.
.
..
..
.
.
TrO"\" lht' p~.nt to the- phl.ll'f'U\ho:-t kl'l(th

~od llJ'ICI lq!IIO("'.
Clotch
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:.
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..
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ptQA
CAPR:IIRONT
11 v
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6\7
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'liM' fCII~"'IIIfllM'U tin d~'l)tll\ ol l t' l!1d\ltkod to \\\tnu1lllt' lht' lrn<~~inatlon C1l tht ~lgf\1:1 1ncl plUnn~k.tl.
l.ach tlhi:Jt!\ ut\1\l'(". {C'IIUjlh ;uu11fl\lnKtlolm l111cn prt'\k1u~ly d!."'l.:k'll('d ~\tn ln.J ~)lint cktttn\ kr tumf"t
llr\l~~;n 1 h '~"""' nt'l " llrnl ''-ht ;11td llr'l:\oiKt\ " I\ t~<otd c>11 ttw ba.~;~t\' f"nl l.Kh (\WI dt1&n !NV \X' \k\"'
opt-d to any )(nttlh dl"'llt"ll II th~ lll"~h\.-d ~k\lltn lou\} hb thor '\.ttdl. lht JUtm "'~ <orrtly Ck\'t'ltlp'd
.. '
Po n P'd O"'d tAc-'OUc':JOC'l

8U
rn ..
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-ro<.se Slocl< Jurrpw .

Fo<.Jr>o(T..o<>S
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and
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cta:t:' li:Jo Of tbt t()(1l).
,.,..,..... 'Ow . - . . . .. , . ""''

, . , bf piRDd t!lc ktlttf tr.Jnt
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pbcl' o1 f'U'b. pin an lhr ptr t .at IM
v.)W~Un nd pn
pam PJ''n'ft un
til dwu~li:'IC' ~r:n n paoDd
lt~ef' ll'w pn! p.tt"..w1 in:e hrm !.()
hJpli."'Jt Tr-.arukf dw HOvlilw I hf
,_.,
Olo~''O
........
..... or tup k\Tl
me-
Itt~"
p.Hdn lln
thr<J~.~rh abc pl!'' o~nd 1 no
,..n1n lf'lor
r~OUSJ"' N-~~
....er
hlpiU'M' (14 ltlf
fur <On\'t'Nt'Ott dt . - lbt bu\1 dr.

('wmJcot :na- and ICPtltout : nn ..-.10 tnor
~ '"'fb.o)t(19
~ hi1'4-nr ol the t.ono n.tenc: nr br
.- ... ,........ u.._

1nm~
lknd
~ thr pmnn "" lnl t

t.Dt.. lr.p croectl md LOCI' r..n "'
...-
I
I
!.
lf "'"'1
'
1/2
TPOI.CfP Jlj .IPSUr."

PONi
IJ-.:l 'T(.of11 od b/1... ((I)' h ! 2 tfteh
8knd tht U "

.and
rant .. 1n tr.t r~
.J-.1 ~
p.in!IOpi~" lb-iiptnhptn llcQLm
bnt lr't46a.tt1. unurd JUt ~u n
...... _
'~
Ix
br-
.-:l:bt~
~.::1: cbt =---to b

~ ~ :"'h ar:d -WI:b.
.\61 tbt Dp I lf! _ , _ WSdr _ . - 4 l::x:lln bt;.
lkP - Gdll !ww -da-b ~ 1M.., p!r.L
''-.,
.a
""zwa~:..::.
::'t...
'~hr.~
""*""
'q.ft 2
r;;Jt
V"'~
t.o g.,
....-.~-...
f*'dr:~
ttlkhN. tO u.- '-'-.wf

p.1t '~n colll thin. pxbt, ~
~ lJult<ll'l
bJpt. I!X wpaull!'
hit Udlr JK~nl
"'-.end~ ITnnl c:oa:spttk L._
dnl(n. ldc1 l) II:W' paZit nam!wft t\"rm brio- tee
tM\Nrt\Ul'.ach-. ........ f
tw-th~
l'lt.b'
vpw..rd " .. lnt1L 1'\iQ. .a roccc:hiD --.c- WUb me !Rxli.1
DfloQn
""""""
\
n
auwna. h
f
_... )"....
"~'
1ran:~
\n tup
,...,.
f:
<
~
c_j
~1
....
..
\hill p.~otc <1H
'h1n coli.JJ
1......:
~~~
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'
lollur ~'" ll&P n~

I on~.-"'("\~ I\lit <1 u
\:.dot .... " h-t J'l~ ... '
\tun ru. ._(,
p.~~ror l'"\
I 1T ltUI)I 1t'W\nJ JUI&:
lrmntt """'
~'
~ ~
:;
- \J.
PANT FIT PROBLEMS/ CORRECTIONS

f"al " "-l\ """,. V'"
.atJo.i C:\.~Y"'
t.t.r. , .art- " (1"11'1!~ >11.1~ .and tc
..:_, ,J~~~ ort
,.j I
I till rtc:-rt "'11h
lrl't'dom cf mm-.:-~t Str~~ hnn
llw-IT .arc- .t nu.mttn f lt'I:\OfU fOf fit pnlt>ktru--~-uft' df''IV~~ t;nc:orm,'lmt~h ;an,J plrlhcu1 ICIJ>f.dn hl NIM ol f<"" Tht f(>l1o1oo1Jli.: fit~ UW'If ~
llu!iot'"..._ aid p.m('fft ~
\',cx::e
r-- rr'k'c' .,. II'M' r-nt
)tn<uoa~ aft' thf'nln.lftltiW ''"' rd.tton ot r~'r.c ~, Fo~\hJolt ~-
_..
~ ~ ~ooe s~e
Tbtm...~~
,............,.,
2. ~wt:h
J. pbcr r-:<
~~td
" ~~
"'- l.rt'p tw.lld lftn,.ar,J

.._ pt.:~' an. 01! .bt idt
-- --
...,.....,......,..,.
...... ....
~~ .mdtftiO
&!wnm!un ltldtt
of ' :Y p:'l!ID ftiOCXlC.
~2 < Prcc;er--,s
\\br loof,. kr
M:>ae<
,.
t:.!m li:tJn. !'WO-f::drd k6:1 d;m '1
t.r.c-r :o
r-C>~m-
"
""""'"" twruQl 9 . crt~ollk "" brm 11"-..3 II lkA
wmh thr Ctnkt of
-...s-lho- . .
I \
t$...tnni ~.d ~Inn
A ~fZf':J .e F
"
I
In .attmmttu
<
--- - -
ij
l~
..
J _ rrobtt m ~., ooc.;
if11&1int l\:'to.*
rt
\o rlaifi._- f UUI .., unde1: lfW

\fC'~"h "dUfk,.h. ''.41ob
pant o~loon( ~w"1ofllnr .u
tht UrP"'f t!\ICI am
01
~.en
.e Par
1\tl ,.mt Ire ...,
.u.- tht tl.a1!1 "-" ~

t tbr r 1ttnpiOd.inJ; rtobkm n.J
t!Yl t:
rKtaon m onr olh.l!
\ i<'ISUft' ttw ClfW'1\
"*""
....
7,
.. '""'""'"" ' .. , (1, 1: \ ,.

, t-. "
..
."
~.t:: l
, .,.,,,, 11, " ' ' " .~ lf!(T lh'flf
''"'11/fi.llo
''"'"'''' ''" r""'
,,,,
... 1
rn MIF
t- J
""'~.,"' tt~ k.-w lht " " " 1 lhl\
...
tll"ttlttoO """'
r...,..r "'"1 1111 I' (~h
fl.((,'"'"' """
11"-'"J ,,, ..
......... ..-A-k \''""' krl
' '"-''"". tnw tho."-'"' h'
.11\tl ): nth lull"' th;-
''""
,,,I
YIJ~Nr.J
'"'"'"'"It
111
II"'' II" tW'\"1.!'1 htl>lll .II III\

Htlh"i tin \ ko~.u" ,,., t'-ill>t"
r,.,,,,. ,.,,,,''If'"'" '-"-' "' ' ""
' . :)s1
t't"rll\, Uno;
lhr 11'1\.t\UI\'1.1
Atii"UIII \1.\o.l .It\ ('IJ\I.il -'tl\~1111
nn...... I """'tf
'" tw , """\ h
'''"hI',."'
Ilk'"'-~~""-"""''
.,-nwt lane" ~
tl'k ,
~" ti'W
"''"' .an.J .,. " "'ttl..
'".. '"
....
ld
li"". . . "
--.... ...
l'ntl ...-m .,,. " '''"" tltt
'
hi.>Ntfn ( 11l'&lli1Wl-
' .r.DK nn ,
......batbt
' "''"' tn".'CII..., ll.ft thr pmt

to .~."\~Jhlr W'\d
\k~ tl'lt I"'" folrJ.
IWttm (IIPM..Di)tf
..........
ttw
,'1\'lt\fl p.CI tO lbr
fllloj.., " ' " " ,.......,
......,~ ...Jt
' I
,_,
'lo"-flr 'k.aw th<f'

~"''' 111111." .., .., \lih ,.,
\11.: '4m lui( ,1!1\1
1~.1\U h' U t. 1Jli,lth oll'\l,t
t,n '(th ,,. ''"" ,.,_,....,
'i""-' ".., " "'
tn('.luuni .,__~,
lllh'l"'lt. lfl
/'olllo '" u flo \ llt'fl \l,hh

h. but not thl~lllh
th 'ldt w.m ,11ld
,,,..,.,toi, ''"' 1111' ..\\ll\'ll
JUitiUnt \Aill lu I hi'

hlll\'' lht' .. ud '"111, h
JMlllll ll.llllht
lnl',.,llh'l.l oiiiiU\1111 l 'h.1\\ tlw
.hljll\h 'll '''llh' llllll.', hiC!ltllll$
b.
rrohltn\ tbl , ,_,.,.

,Jr<lro'rl .lU\lJ,.,. (J..I
l,. I.
.rr."'
"'''M'~ ,,,
r'in 11111 ~1
C"\('1.'" .k Jt'l!o' t h'l. Ill l

\ft;t~u,
,~,,.,.,
tim .unounl
:'Prfl\ rbtl
\l.a\h
with
.
unt~h l \11\\'
t'rHhh' lll: 1, "~"'' t~' ,,, ., uftt

(flltll lll ~l '"' l~kl
:\lfufhll l' !'In'' tlw l ulll''' l"-''l '"'
t ilt' t ' \ \\'\\ ,11\\1 ,IIIU'" Ill \olll l\h ,tl
t'.l h t'tlll ll~l 111~ JIUII Iht
h\l ~l illl' tlt tn th'l \\hrn
t tl '"'' ncl tlttOI II(h l hr
tlmllt\j; t ' ' '"'" II\ n, tl u.ul. tltt'
\tnhlboklt'h.t'fbJI I hr
tltl\ ' "''''"' 11'1111"'' ... ,,llllt\\l\11\'
mr..wr..,.l ~nourl Nrnr.l
,.,,,
..., ',,,,, '""" ''.,.'"'
m.u "'"' rh""'' "'' u.,.,
1Jltlh til( \t llh1
t. ~
\\l4k-'''""' .~tiM''""' 11~1111.
l; "
.m
Hw 'h"l"'' lltht t'-thm \l.ul.
....,,..., ..Ill"''" ' ' ,tl "" ,. !11.--f
Ullt' llt,m AI! lllillll!ln I tho:

t toh h \ Ut\ I Hill lite '""''
\1.ljut tht" ,tt.-lllhtll. -'Utll,(tl!l\
\
I
I0. J'l'\..tllt1ll ' fkflllftlo tllll of lll'"' k'f/1
.._..,,,>Jd"''
',1\lJ.. ,I.I ., ht.;lt """ lhf/11/ltl~ !'(

,.,~,
'
! ('.ll:<' tl.:'l) ""'
.n~-dUW dpr\ nut ..11(11 \'lllh lh"
(Trllt'f
1~'11 {Jf ~,.. .
'""lf
~!liM Jtt-Wo~t
hr
n.
l'ruhlrt 11: ,.,HI. ,,..,11 fNIItol ,,..,.., "'~'~ ,,,, /h"

\iltllt( f'u\111 " 1
i1
I .Oh \U I !l.l!ll'
'ol;ll~tlllt '-"1 I hl11rk ht'\ 1u tht
(et\tt:r
UlC' unh,"t front 1'1111
rofllr'nt Cll,nltoo., ~ 10 U~ J"fll
nlf'lwtC'\1
JWt.tmn..,.<\t....-: \o,)IS~.&mow11 lcltlw'

fnlnl pinl ' ' ~hcn ~,., un thr N\i
r.srunr ~orrAtla~t: rrun tnt aw'IU.f'!:'d ..llk._mt
4'''""'
\ldWfl fhlrl'l thr .tN to
,.,J,,'"
Probltm a..._L ~t ,.Jtr llbllvnJ Jt.r~

""-l IW olll'l'\ll t~ tJ&#tt. fttt f'IOI'Iim I I
1\n tht f~d\ lolrJ u.l'l\kt thr ~
tht ltlft (lot 1h<t "'ll\l Nnd

U .., n lto"' \1.11\h hIOI lht
('('IU('I Nd, IH. but not th t~
t ht \.kk ~"m ~('old t~ ""'"''umJ
.lnw~nl 1Utnd
...
\f~t..asutt thn~nt
.ltno~onn
lt.;n k \01011\t lwlnd p.tU

~
""''
" uol'
"'m" tht-
"'lhl.ll lhC'\kk .....""". thtbM.l

lnll hcont (\)nt. hltndin to n.-to.at
tht u..W w.tm tn
thf'
k\'f'l <:r1 tht t ront .1nd t'lk I.
~~ RciNW lht .t.JR\ wn tl\ IUS:
tht 1-"J'nl k-1:; un td 1N ClT~'"'nt: 1\
.n tht cnHt"f o.1 tht w.. ~lt"-pt'l t ht'
\iok w.u~U.Ind dl.rt'- ~nc th&:
*'~W'\ d'M' foe .a ,:...:...S ht
II
hoM: I.. bknd!njt 10
\i\k v..1m II '"''f"\~1\. a&J tu tlw
......
... .
'
/~
fr m tlw .mt at.m.~~t. tht IJA'- r not'h
'
Prohl(m; UloJ,\~tllt , ,,,..,, 1/ta.' illf(t f(J t liM"''I

1111.'1.11 '"''' t ulf ldt'lt~t/JI,ml '''(Chi
lolllll~lfl ' \l.a'h thlll'lljth tht Ut'd)I:Unt wht
\II\"\\ ,llliJot'.U\ (o ('flll)' hl.j; th(' JWU
''"h
'"n'
k,l to
allow th'-'
to c~rw.:n until
(1/\.lPI)l'.-r'\o MN\\U\' ,., th~ \'f ldt\1 .lit'' \l>~tl.
thh .U\',l th:ul0\1.' thl' p,ult

12. Problcm:llW,'tldl llt ur tht fJJ.. k.m
titnllffi,unl N.i; tlJrl nr,~1,- f "J. amm,.mt
,.,,.,,. r'mcth"'' M:ul. tht ,~,~u<'m wh\:tt tht

Pottem c ooectton
llcltli.A.ltJ
51/ut"' PAko~w11'~ 'l.ll M'.Hn.and~ lri
wn
/ '
\mtwJth lhr !o~hnc " P"' rd tro.m tr p 1 .mt
Add
1hC'C1.f~\1\lo1\.<'n'- pb\ lht'blt: l d,ttU\f
\t.lrl.thf mo. y<Jco w m ;and idJU\Ud d ...n lor

l'~tff'"' te.,~ '".., l.:w lhr tnouilm H .1 ~~J
lur COUK\If~ l bt fW11nn
""
y--
\dde\1 'IMh' h tfw,:Jtl'tl ;\dll 1/~ of thl"

..mount ..tthe nmch l)l}lnt .md I I ~ tl$'
.,)llluum Ill th\' \ldl w.un $~ lllti\U.nl~n' ,.,
,1 ~tl ldt . 1\d)U\I lhl' liNioC'Iilll' fJtt.lllllintl ll
m'''""Y
Cont(lf
.,....,,
"""
,,,,.. >"
. . ...c
.-c. I
Knits Stretch and

Shrinkage Factors
INTRODUCTION
t.;n~h ,.,,. \II" Ill tof 1114' nitnl llt'IMII,f t labtit., m the m.at\.1 t tJd.r\ P'mllflh I or ttw Jol*...a: ~\
\J tl'r wr, t.;nll l lllflf' .tit>"'"'~' 1of n.uuuol .an~l'\ ''''" tK hiM!\
t ""'""'I' .._nit'
\1.1\l,ll~t hr d11 '"' d..l\1un" Jotl\,11(1r\,......,
.,,,, r, hutoihtl .._,,h., ha\c: tilt' ,,.,,.._,h 111 \th~~h ut lc11J1h WWW!!, "'l'tt>~ttl '" *'uon tntht tu~ ''m<h
.-tt
\tlollll'lllln I H )II f.~llk\1,
\t ll) nurtuf.-1\IIU\ ;md dt'il:fW:h lk"'ul'l' tun ... .JI 1.'111 ttwuil!W'It!) h'ld ..._,, l)w patt~tmflll W!
'LhC'It.lki iW' l..lkM""-l,;o..ahk Atlri'IUt tht .,,.,.,-... (h.IIMt~tnll(l. b ~ Alftd the- vrndl..t ~0'~ bn.:Jn10
t l ~l .a Jto;IIO{I ht ,,.,. ht: .khk'\n.l Ylilh It" ''"'utlun\. lhtt h fii,.NJ4tbbt-d to. ~me 1ht ~ b:!r.u
1
\Ul li n~ In l.tUI 1>..11.-nl IU\ lwt\ct~ .l 1JitntN f""~')o'!tlllA ~ ~ fiMt" f'rtJo ~
'lolliUIU' '""' .lhO ffnnt .l lffM"'.M. . "''Uf\IC'-tllfnJ lbt l..~t'f*UIftl J"": Jt;;n. aDtd l!JII.U !.1\-\tr..,.,.
I ~" hi"" ,u..,dl'\'do:'l'!.~ few '""lt"t".l-' 1ht COftiJ"Cl'l ~ hnaeinh c,J1 ~ ..S<hn tlftttbllwn. lh
l.<1 h~t.t(f("fi\.lll'\ ~ t t .,.,,..,...,, ''' "'h Jotllol t'('(("-t'fl hand.""''"~ Cftdh ~CJ*'l...Sc-.,
IPnROOUCnoH
SIRTCH NfO tlCOYIR'I' fACIOR
,,.., :h roc ICf
~ :cMJfY Fol;t(Jf
Yarlonc ... SI'Pf'!d'l

SfotlCH ANO RICOVIAV GAUGf
C\ASSaJtCAOON Of- KNn rAIPfCS
'
'
'
'
. . - .....
.--1 1/4"
..
'
'
1114
...
'*lfCnoH Of STR1CH
.629
A()APIING PAnERN$ fO kN!1S

rn. SNW:<Qt f.Oc:tor
.630
630
n,. St~tch fOCIOI'
'
''"
1>21
1>21
1>21
1>27
.628
031
.,r,,n-~:
l.ntdnittJ'. .at...t tNu.-n,t" 1 'hi .,.,,.. .uld lt1 n
,, ~.iOn.
STRETCH AND RECOVERY FACTOR

1 tl<' .abtllt., ot .1 l.nU l.lt>tk tu \lt\ld1 .11~ rrturn I tl\ ' (
~....
un 1"~...:_,
t.allfk" , ...,,.."' 1'\n' t ~ \ lt'("l\h o~tlrl.l tm"'"" ~
~..S~hmaw.1~ .. 1br
628
l<.Nf15-Slat1CHAND SHR~tf~CAGE fAClOQS
c"X'(I( , ..
STRETCH AND RECOVERY GAUGE
CLASSIFICATION
OF KNIT FABRICS
h Um!l11 10 th:u"" 1 Q..lm~m t'\11ln WO\'f'n U.tmc

I umPc. dout"r \..nit l.n .un fltltt.
o\ ~Uttdl 1Xtt4 ('Wf ! S ptl
tht C.W('oSl;WIW" ttr.am Ca.ttnplr. \ tr"K:t'IC'\
\Uf1lhf'\ '" t, I. -' 'lrtcbh! Cocnbtht'J d\.t
t>l
k.,.h ........
rKt('n-.tK\
-."""' .tno.ht rrtdl\ \;nil.'!< C'.tnn:.afh u~ tar
"1"111\"cv ,.hfon )tl'('t('h b tzw.c~ lor comt.>n an.J,.
c.tl"'oc: ht ~ \hould M1 ~ uwd "-"' ~u C'tln
lQUIU\'(. tht 11:\lK lumrok. m"\on tnoot
" udl'fdiN trf1c.h k nib..
1-.ni tl-hllltM' In man' l1t1~ n'lhn .antrl'll\. lflill tw1un,

hl niUnt' .a l\"1\ \\ hn'l ml ut\t-.J "ilh 1,-.,..,. '-""'-,
Uf l.;t~h \ l.llt'' I hi.' 1--'lk II\ ill \ .af\
wri,11\ h'\tUit
dlt,-ctkw\ .101.1dt'J.hT ut \lh1C"h .and '-llrt~
' ' ' ' ' '"'1\'lt\Ut\t I\ a nunultktut\"'d hl.'tt '"
ttnt (1ft
" tuch Uw ttt'l'fh'tmir\11!
"*l<n.U1fk~
h .a
~~-<han
wmhrtk 1"-"unu '''"'1\oC\1 \o4 "'' k.a'\l t~ \ ('ln\<ftt
5-lt'f'l( h\ t..tuu.. -\ \l~h t;anor 011 SO ptf\'ftlt en the'

nu\U.r'lot o~n With 18 to t,n pnttm on 1hot
ul .a "'7!n'M:nll'\l 1'>1~\'\11\tiUI\oc l'ho: llul'ont (A..'offt
~ "~ 1.1\U\IIIIuc."nl tht Hht '1'-'l'ldo \ ltbn ui\N hc:t.a
... .
J<)IJ
...
til.
,.,,n r nn trL .a 'f\kT
" ll'k h ...,.
'""'""'
'"c ttw
\H~tl\hnt
dttrtmUW h tt'l.-."~" t.-:tt'lf It Hw \.nit 1\"IUfn'

co t h lfl i! tru.l 1-x.~ ic)ft. II h,l\ ~; \ II.C'IIt:nl ~~' "'"
thr l.nu ' "
\ht'l h,.\ C' .a 1 ' "''" n'ln...:n t \".at N\C no t!W'<O
- =
.-.--=
fqM 2lenQ' .....,."M G-v.JI"'
Jtoflt"'~l pcc ..nt u~d ltlf ( RI\\Whc. J~.Mhl .
l .W'tort' If .a I. nil dr)l"'' nnt h.l\\' ;tnc'M.IIl'\'()\'

C'r\ \II t<J I I" 1unt \trth h lo\ltOf In o nl' or
both ~irn t wl1 1\ dn not cun,id\1 U\lllJt 11 for ;1
tn.h\U.I. 14-tlltitoJ. u t nwlll ~ II will \,l.jt ,_,tht-1

1t ~ l'l c nn t 0<.11 tht tnh h \.l .a ...,' nlnd \\,hl
I'\Tnt do,...,..\1~.""
fln "'t\l.U't' ' ..t d
"' ..,- --=
'"' C' .a nurtlnt\UU1of I!\ I~
.afkl dn '11\o.ht k>n'

\hn t IU\ ~; I'C'Itl f'IUI~'- .alltf H -., lk.\ ndr\.
\l.;nt-t1d U\ l'lfij\IU-'1
~h-l!'~o 1\ .;.l.or ll'~c-nl Jtflc-''<ttkrultN l.'fld of
\ht \1
U'I E
Ill C'INUt 11\>t\.iftlt \U(\I.:h.
I u,'f.l \ IMtklC'\ .,,., ~ H"'n btrl<\1 """h ~nuun

m locm . .tnc.t u>Ut>n l~lf ' "' 111111\'C'.&r. "'-'""IJU. .and koc).
1-'nl' \1\,ll\d c:\ h ." ttw- "lllhh to 'J"Illl~ t......t. h, itt
oti!IIIU,tl \h,il'l\" "''"'" ,U ~;t, hN (rd'C'rft\1 U'l .l\ II$
mtrnm\ \lt t f n:t,.,.,m.-d '''"'"hi~
onl\
\nl.lll l nc.l!.:"'l< in knth
IHJJ J\I()W\ Ilk"~~ tc) fnl1\\' \\ llh "''ml'lt lt'
ff"'-'dt~o~n \\hc:n In ,, fiC'\00 1'1\,"ltlon
II 'hot'"""'
' "'''" tlw h11J. ll"'' ' 111(1\ffll\.'rtl tnm l .i 11' IO

pcrnnt
I "",~ ,.lr ~
1t'l\)tl h -.t~
..s
SuptHlf"C'h knit.. -\ \tmdl ~ 011 100 pt\n'lt

1n thr ltnr;t!'!~ Kl4 aot$Wbt CTIM '".....,.,..
'l.ltkhts~toiOG:all'tiDdlf\ 1bC"~
\U'ttch J.nd ~ ~ 1t -.Ubk .,.,.. ~..mh

kvt~'lb. md ~ .u wd . lQ("'- Tht dl'-1~
f lt.tf "" th~ t\'f!C' d krbt (.;11;1 'U'fb."b -.am tiJM;. lh
rnvm to t$M ~ nal tr'lt'nu:rtatC'flt'"

l.um~ VI\ bloc. ~ 1:h ~'(If l.rl'C'\
k~th .mol'~
Rib l.n.lt..._ \ ~dt IXWf('ll l'-' ~t I " 1 ftt>o

t \1!\1 r..lf ''"""
.md t.nd&nt: ocWIIJ'k :.ht J,Jl.lt ~ JW' ~ tr.al.blkll\ll ....rut~ -ldch ~ \tbt J~ i.kf"no.k-nl
.,n the b r.r 1\'tt.:nt ,a) ...,"('ij ~ ~ t~ ~~ "'~
.... ,n\11\"t ..:h art ~~;. : "-c 1" ~
t..n1h o;.an .ll'il N da..'i.:l!C\l k
flt t: .1\ (II'M
..& tO CIM'I\'\'111
1h\.'11.' Jh'
\\.irp '
trt'l 1'1 ~1'\'l~h \~ Ntl kr ~hlo.l'('
1,UIIl$ ..tl'rt\'b. '!"ft,h
'""''run,.,,,..... ,""
1\\0o" "' \l~h. "'!:'l.t.:f'l '""'' run

k-I"Q":th .u..S ,""T,""'"" ...... ,\:'t'l.~''
~n~l~..~'"' ..tml k'\ttlolt\.1\il Ultnt'-
h~n"1.''''f, \.nih , ,1n ~ttr.llh '"" 'l~wli"'' m
chc' .t rc-.t:-'11 ,>t
tl'<'l ~h 1n tht fjU""'tl$"'"'
~ ~~~"' l in
1 " ' 1$.1h I~ m ~' l)l'l"cu
t'ir(ulllhr,..nn- 1 ~ '" I ~ l"''"""nt
th(' h.>ol
l~mln~ ''"''
' 1;'1111t' Ifilli \.11It~ \ \ lh:h h 1..., ~,. '" l ~ 1' n;'("tll ""
1 h \ , rc1'\\\\ I~ l{t.liU I\ , ,nllllli: ' ''" h.,"\ 'to U ' 1!\ t. h t.'
'I
\ - tt ll"h'' 'l IIU 1\l' , .. I..1UI hJ. " lim lh\1"""""
flo!
ntw..
DIRECTION OF STRETCH
w ttl j lt 1\\"111
('Jrc~u n f"'I\'IIH'- 1~ h 12l lk.'1H ill

.M'!d
'(.~ ~ VKhr'\ ...,\11 \tm<h to

lltocntr ,, '" "~tC'tdn ..no,t a.t,~1 .~
\lr~~~o.tn lnrt ~ 'Wdl VMS ts 1bC'd ;o, ~b
lb.&l n"((t:lUI' tht fd:urt:. ~ t\'pC' 01 \tnt r- -uto~r
kc ~.... ~ CIYIDoh. .and ciM;Irtt
dlt'\'~n
1lt"p piC"''Wtd Uw \ad b.. &n~l
rt'\,1'1\"C':'\ tkt<'4 ~ C'ClttCift ~\.. mtr:lft;
'lprafWt..\. 11..< <C'JOfto \Mt.\. D'l1cln. Wo. ~ u rv 'bbnc
CCUIIICMn! ~\ (I( btt'-
11 :
It'"-.! '"'""'
m"'
dl_-.t,an..---t- tht \ .r ut
\lr~u.-.
\hl\1"""h'' "''...t II\WIC'Ill4 .., k ....., u b f..'>~ 'Un..b pn

~Win ln.. h hr ci\"U\':
lmdn ~
ftk~ t\'IIJ \'If tht \.rut on the \lkt,h CJ\lt;<

~ -'' IC'J('t'ot the ,::lu~ \lf't"l \ h l \11h&11Uhll'-l tC'ttr.'- tht Wonc. It \b$C'bO.:ntp.a~o~lkt tukb' -'1~-''
J&,"ll.,br., ~~
t ~'-"
Uuf\"111 t ttlo\ kk.k"t' h.1\ h\Uit'd \t...Wrih

tor'"'"' ~r\Ot " k't 111.11\ ~C'.~t a.un'C'nt\
Defer- ""'S1!01CI\/R9C0''9<Y Foetor 01 KndS
'*"''c........,.
t.sut ,a.-.n( c..-.
~H \~
In
.,.
\ll\~l h ""' ' "'" hI All\ II'- \\f~ N l '-haf' ,.,
)ll
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t'\'fh
t~
;-( thc't'lt.i;:-at~h,'4}..n..t\ lhtfiU'\1
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f\'1 t-..'"' iA"" \(\'1111\.!' "'~ .aro.l -.\. ... t.U ~~

.no.:- ....... - '\ llfltdll' tr~o.~l' ' "' l~~ ....
\, ,,,,.~ .illJ \
~~ )1.' , ..UII,..'C':U.
630
eoor '"' 21
I iC)l'f I
..n \111\IUt 1<)11> m
The Sho1ch fOC101
ADAPTING PAITERNS
TO KNITS
ll"'f""
l'o !Ill ""f)'llll( \I I I It h rid

IY fM.Il>f~ i1!! 1ft
I n~l \ <~nd 'tult h l Ull\t no IUht' d~flt n III ttw !l~o~ o~h IIf
tf'lhMIIljt I ht' l""llt II\ t1Uo'l lltl'tholfh olll d\w.'"'"'"'
t;.nll \
ITlfld\fK~Ik>n\
(JkoloJ"n lortt" tflo.j
'dl 0" Olfi:KI.Ill ~' \rut\ t
FvrM I 2.) ~-. !:;r ~

\"r> I rotr_ ~~\I' 114 Inch k~ 1hfo bx\, tlt'C'i
t\
fltl'~ ..J,:u1-d !jol'llt1.\ tht 11\W-1\~ Nl
\i.k tlroJ"''\
ModMylng IM Ponou'l
llltk-ll'tl1\hW hnlft' 11\\K h p.!UUII'\ k ll;:lh olt~ """'h
\!_. "'"'' t11 tt'dlll tod ltoltl ~ lht t. \oiml ok-\ .,.,, nll".,..,.tt-
nMIll\ ~i\, lll<ot t.flil\ l'otlh o1 \lltlth fj,ttJIC l!(of'l\ Ill ll

l\ lliltiHil I l11h W'l~ff'l'"( f'l'~ ]\
I"'"",..,
\\ luu I( J
\h.lo.W !RI
\\tuh HI
.,..., 1/Mt <IJ ~nlf. tt.JJ 1/H lfwlt ..11Jf ~\Wff1W1'1'f

lht liM ..\tift"" fll\ Jft Jt"IM"1ollnd IN~ '"'I"'''"~
tnPP't ('.llhtn
,.,rm.~l...-urtn
JIOohhn. 1lM' b~\k
hunt
I"'"' .lJf' lll,ntuttJ ,md
The Shnnkoge FactO<
,..., f"**t!: k.lbr t " W'ldt ...b!:tt ~
,,,
_.., __~~1-4lnch par.Drl

'!'W t~C~n.al hortD vc -.au ol hr Jllltk!n
,,..._ft U.l
-41rJ12Indl~~oa
'*''
..,,'"'" M the
~ 1 ! IDd:lb uo.N1
I 4 InCh t "-. \ "' )aft. lcftt<~~ ' thor -~
budkt", \~Ill, \li"M'C'" rand
\1.,'""" '"' v"'" ' t"*in lui
.......
tor a..........h httf'i ptmtnl\. tltru,.. ' ,,.,,\ldrr~

to bt thr tnmC lmjur1.ant a..10f' lhC'fdC..of' thor J-.11
um "mluftd t1 Q:dJitftWior f.c ~hnnLix-' fu , .. I
th-~ th \hr.na... 1 t"' -.J. tw hi~J"'fl
,,.
It
,,. -1....-.,P.-"'
tnnn.,nJ,I"1.\rolf('
u~ ., thor .....unr.W,
,,..~fl',
liM "' 111l;ul(t'J p.ouun I J1

I nlmxm tht /"lf(f/1 I., l11mLr
.,,....._ ~ull
lim~ uut fr,m th<' cfllll~ It '"' l.thfl( I''"' 111
nd wtotLifl;t piiii<Jn\ \t'!'i,llfl' tht' 11!\t,illll'\
fmmtt~ '''"'' fll''' tl nlllw WW"t'-'" P''""'
.&1 to1d1 )tll!dthnor I ... th4"W' mt'ol lft'TIInu tJ
11\.oll the lhtll''"''"''' h Jntlhr IIi l'f~lr.. f-411 111
.., udr ~oto&h'"'
thr otW la.itflfll loy ....
ur.w
r~'fttfJst hf" ''''"' '~~'~ mM~ tr tl ~ nor1.1. t!l. ""'""
_.. . .,\.....
h,}>,$2~""
11 .,rr, ~~" 1 : n.h tut~
II1-::::,...--
{ -.lrtof'''' ....... ~~" ' j ""h

r.u.1lk 1 "1th ''" ,lftilrUlliN tC
CUf'\otd IUlti lft~' 11111 P,.ll'lM llill'l 0 till
~tofll ltl.( '''' 1~fl1 m
f" th 1 I
,, ... ,.., ,.,., ............ ttrw ,.,..
,..,
' .,..
ftMr lht' A fo.Jih 111
, . . . . . _ - , . , . . . . , , . , . fOOl ... , . , . _ . _ ,
lht ,~thin
J:,~, ... 1 ,..h
,, ,,,_ tt>\
"" , . , . , ,..,
,,,.. ,, ...... IJ<~-
!h
NI1W bie411 l~h tol
~l(tVl
r ,u~~ 4
I'W 10 ,o11111 tWhlh lit ;, U)o.fKJ!M tiM" lolfllll"tlt
l"'n l.\1. II \h.~o~ktl tt-.1 ml ..tf'J thr onam.ll

p.tiU"ffi lfiJ, ,u'lcl ll'f /IIIII\~' ""hilt' t !11dM olh'\
,,.
\\.o'h .md dr) rile l b l l 11-M rtlw 'kth pJHt rn

thr t (ltf p.ilh'fiL M.... t <II I'"IKI.
~111!mn thto ,~nt lnw ~n.J ..,,. 1 '" tht" lllf\IJ
and thc- .r.unl nt' ~r'td bkll~ lmc- ut ttw \loT\-!
llfl l'fl , ..
__,__\ . -.
, ....... r;o..
on,
Enlorgong lhe Pof!em

Fq.P<' 2
Cl.ltlhr'tnt'~'nllrt'
l o1 L!'Kh ep~rillloi "'''hi"'~
.....
'""~' old;uYnto nt\ ..a thot tiJhll uf ttw hmnr h ''

\hnnL "'h' n ~.11\IWCI \\1\. ~~~ w.tJn~ .attol l'ftoll\.
clo-,th l"llf'fn
~.t!TJt,.~
1\.ltt '"'"" '" 11., ftlt"ml 1trpt.11 fot t~ ~L

llH"''IlJII. I 4 of'l\ h h ofn ttw lfto.tUm 4 thf p.lnl
,,,..... ~ l 2 lOth ~ lc'p!'Jt ...... ltw'
.......
,..,.,........,
ra
~"'" nat twtRtnw' I'll
the
~~
i ....... lk'\'NLil'lf\
\\ 1'- ""-''
"''""""'*
Mti""'IC'
J.
Knit Top
Foundations
TYJUOf , , - ~~ilQI'oi'S
~Tl[$$ rwtOfY ltP> "f~ I
CW''U'SS ~ J(Vo -QII(A.R 2
C)'l.t_QCIO .., "'T J()P-00..,. J
cc .. ~ -. . ~00'!
c<'O" ~ 'ft~ A,_~ Sl1M
'-'"" ~
..._1\lt ~"'" <l.h
t\.iw.t \'On the- w..m.lor-.\ 1tJnO ~
n. ""'"- "'"
..S..tkln lttl~t h\ ~"~-\:(' J.... , ,,.., thftl,.,

'""n..bh~>n ~rt wt~mkJ,, \JJ J, " h:ll ~ ..,..
\tit. hUt, ~'llf
l&f\lllllt 1-N
flat _,.,.. .., '""'Jr ,.._Man .-.1 I 1-htt
J'Uit t~ It ......_Ill ~ P.dn tot hie"~ t
z-
for IO!C>rtn.lhOI\ t>Qut \J\ t\ 1lw-fUIIUR\ ~ dfatttd

t~thn Jn..t ~r ..ut\S t ttw (OQ:IfWtton ~ tbt
"""
TYPES OF KNIT
FOUNDATIONS
0r.tJt 1-hlll ""l().llo.l\ U'C1th ......S t\llbul.u ~ lht
Ot.a!t !-t~ ftmt, \.!..ili. ~"' k
J-t., "~',,.. ..rut 11\'tt\kni Totbi.n
Pf~t
J'l(..- 6':"
J1w-ft .lf't 1 numhn cot bole-~ t.hiot .W hdp W\!..'\
~tnt: ,,,u""tlofl~ M \tut'
Lhbaft( fth 1' tO
--
I
DARTLESS STRETCHY
KNIT-DRAFT 1
Pottern Oevolopmenl
F.gure 1 eo:..
lr.a th~ 1'1.1d i\JIIan. l.artu!J{ .u .tlt.'IUI..kr hi'

oanJ tndii\Jo: .u t1t\' ,umhlll~ I .\t-o.. I \ .l.t m-.;-}.
\hilt thf l'llh:H\ u.m.utl l ! ifhh ""ll!.b'C'
tl> i In hn tl th4' o~rmtkk
.a
1lt.m tn4' w.l, "'"m u1'1kntn~ I''' 'hi."'"n

F~\i ;t
\-\
lt,'4U ,111.1U1kt ftoo -''''1\"ft\rfU
1t 1hor \ho1'111i.k fl1'1t An..l ft\11: I.
1\t.t.~ tlw ..._,,, ..,," o~rmtt-.11t "'"~,. l~!l ~

1 ~,111 \ Mtn.tu"" th tht t'C\tltu. ann"'*
,t..11 ~ rllnl>Nh~
'\...
'. .
r.g.-.s 3o b rront !~Mel:

rl.l rroru 1'-lllt'lt'l t'lf'l ICII' (If thco l~.;wL up\,
;a.ll"tlJfll: h l('t .1nd t nllr Inn"\
()fill'! t he I RIll ~~~ IJIIIC" (lfll\ l .lt~l ltii~IUC' \,l ).
II \ .llld 7 <kl llO'I :llu:n . dl.ll\ .\ IIUC' IIUc-t.t,CII \
.l.n,l l.. \ Lafl, lht (d'IICI .lnd Ntfl\ll'l 11h Ihe.' fl,)('L
not'\"I. .and ttOnt I'll('(I.. l)f11\ llfK lrttnl t h e' milL It)
~ ,Jkli.JtJtof
!t't>l.t n h~ tnctn.al r.attt"ml
tr
rru:utt
lb1..
'""""
'
fiQUit 7.11 . . . . . Ac:lp.nlf'MI'\1
l'lo~tT l'-1f"l(l und u tht d tilfl: W<'Uf\' :md rot th t

l .thd lvtill\aol.
\ k-'" Hc.' thC' ;a.nnhok- .nlCJ ft"CCrd.
;:umhnk 1I /lin, h
tum 1 g Inch hom

t-knd
t'\l r'\'t
or t ht" <~rmMle .1.nd
\tt,.\.\ltttht
,te-e\ .
t
If U!l fiW,.\Uitll'tl'lll h """ tlun tht :mnhok tit

ttnd biU'I" n~ t ..l'f'll "1th (p liR\III' '. .
If ("Jl n~:t\UI\'fl'tl'fU f\ rtlft' U~ ,.,~,J. n'lf'~

ln frtlnl tlw tlkqn " '"'' hk,llllht ~ ur 11~1't' ~
F'OVf S
trim hont ll \"t'L h o n1 ori~m.al p.tUcrn. Ulbtl

A. !itt /tt11
tht;~ll
lol.l tonltMrt "''h ;~tmholc- n'tl.t\l.ll("lll't:nl
u;
\th"\~ ollj1 \hHUI\1 111('.1\I.IIC" 1/.t h'tth 11101\' lh~
llol l.. l~t u-m
nu'"'' .1; unr tu ttw> tlhc~ v "'fll' 1.-\-d
\.la.t\. t llf' tf'nttt
~;a.p
n..tdt
l'\11~ tW~Ic_"uth (to( lht 1\.lbl ;a.nd hip rM.lSUil'" ft'fc_on:nc:t \.kk !IC'<IID- l1~ the' Lincf(lol' huN ~r!Tkrm n tt hi I \T~ f.abrrt
...
S<tpotohng thO Ftonl ond Bock Ponam$
OK'fU\., dro~l'l
"'
'"""""
I
I
{ '""'
IUC'I fpON'T
113
_,
.._J
OARTLESS FIRM
KNIT-DRAFT 2
-~
~
I
Figures I , 2
lf1 - . ..
'
\ .,, Wtwn ~tlnjl r\lt Vl ~t. dt~i \ l r..~lu \Ilk \Nil\ \ l)l ltllfll "'td
I'> ~ 1"-tlto1111 tu .t\ *1 '''"' 111 tit'
'
l mt
FIQJie b Knit SIOGv&
hold IMI'Il"l l'lau tlw bJ,It SlhW fnuH On the

w llh <:cnllr Jl.ldhl on fo-ldl!nl.' ~nd tr<Kt'.
, ,.,,., t
lo" t'l ~ h nf humtlu lt~ld to jtnllll C
Hk ud ,. ttnr ollltlh~tlc.: t Uf\ t- Ul lht 'k"C\.t' t-'1'
I
D
~h(lollhlcf .-ml 'ltk> d.ut 10th~ Mnllw,l lin .urn

hOI(\ hllV\' l~fl \'tllll t ~~'tl nn lttml l\ ~INh't
than lhl' IMd ~h',I\\Ul' tn l!ml tin diUI-MK'l.'-
llt:nd.
f ,,1111/'Jt'; On luml ,unlht\J, h ~~ -- Ill h ,:.u,U('I
.\dd 1/4 ln~h ttlht l l,t~L ' llflul<k

'ultlf,t( l 1/<1 ltn h lmtn thc.' hl'llll ,~ukkt.
;\(kl 1/2. hKh IC1 lhf' IM\ I. ,,,!,w.am olr'kl 'utlttl
1/l loth 110111 lht' IU'Ill Woltll 11-t .." htw h '
\\olht, ..\ 1\1\1\ll.ah....l
\h4\UJC' lu 1/2 ttkli nn biwp\ line. Matt.. ~lllltr(

Uf l 1/2 !111 h ffllrll m.u~ ,md lll!ltl ( Sc:JU.lU: J Ill~'
\,.
" " ~ hie' I" .md ~lbuw. Ktmov~ - l,.l bt'lthc gr;Jin
lin~ \ II fllrchn lhw tltdiC:. th:\ origin.tl !il('('\'t'.)
lf.l( t' llll'\0 fiM.ItlilltiiUtl f'lltctn , lf,UI\1('111~
\. ~ h n<' fti>R'I n...,u..l l111tltt'1l11 hfttk wrl~t

IJi!lll'O 1/4 Ill< h I n .. \I 111 Ill Itl. !.atM.: I ll
lro~w o1 ~i. lttly ~ltWolldtUI\tlllntlum IJ Ul(
Steovo
llw ,h'\\C' c.IJ' '"tilt t~o.~t' '''"'\t' 'lo"tl,l,~"'"r'

I .' hl h nltlnth.ttt lf'IUI .m,lt,._l, mlh"-' 1114 '"''
1\0 .. , Ittllo."' tiM 111\lt\l,lllltlf'l\\ ,, ., I'''"' '"''~
'
r
l
J. .
....
~11'0
~ """"'--
636
ChOPIOf 28
Comptotlng the Pouem1
figure 3
1'1-.h'l)aJ)tl \lll~kuwU' lht ~Htnllu'nt tro~~.t tht
OVERSIZED KNIT
TOP-DRAFT 3
1htfront aod LlaCl. t..nit ~tlc-rt'l~ ;m, drJit\"d ttl&:t"tl" t
.and ~,,uatt\1 "hrn the' ~lr.~ll ha' hfol:n ('('lfllJ)~:!t'd
Cte.ttt ~11 \.lrPilOO\ ff()fft tht\ f<J~.UUI.aUt)tl
Shtfl
- front
h;loCl. '<'P)'
Trim lht' t~\: nC'(l.lrnm tht' lr<-t\1 1)jut'rn.
R1bbong
lltbhinK lS "l"tlff't I W\C"' f(lol lltt UIW('d~of \U<"\th
Cotton Knrt Top Droft
lnlr.UfK', wlf,, .and lw.1\dln!' IM.tnltl'lf'\1.

p.utha\("(J to lht' kn~h nd "'1dth
01 m..adt hom tt~: ""'"'"'"k ()4 tht l.nlt O\t11ooc'1of:t' tht ~.am'"''""' W""MiOit \nit!o
fo~blln
1hr (Oitnn t.rultopt'i ~on tht' \lff'Cth' d.u1An\

L.ntt top II nee autbiblt wot JV(('1> ~B to o\C.
~bb4nl:' (.ln hi<
figole I
~abnt-OOJWJ'W'
l'latt dw 1rnn1 d.attku pltttm on Uw ~\U.rt
TfX"f" ~ ntdlt!W ..nd MoJ Jt mkJ~iJcl
Stuftthtp.IU~ l"tmnttOI'"'"'' ~
T~ tht r~.rur..( plltdft M'd rrmmT
()ra- a Lant froa11ht ~I'I!I:JUkkr ttp ''' nc'\.L.
l,tM"t:r Mft\h06t I I !' Of as PR~
Ora"' tht Mtf~!k}k Y.vt!t ttw \ o~n C'Uf\'f
Muwtt- tbt armho!llk nrd lt'l d'l!r \p.l<'t pn.,.
"ViiXd tn tht n~ht rolvmn.
1'\Kt tht bL cb.rtln\ pantm on thor -.qwrt omc.l
tr~ tht bk.l rwdJ.Jot ~of tht Nt L lnt p.aunn.
.....,.,
\\
f q..q 10
Cet''trbOC\
s. Mod9 Ribbong
nw
oc
klol1h
mot
~ ~ mt - - ' t "'tot
cut ll'-llfn MOUB.l tbt- rwdJax":
hirJ~ t.bt ~ pl".l'> 14 lno.l\ . .
]. ""-nc-b ~.Jtn
Lnt~lU-1' tbt .Sjusttd ~lJ!nr ~ I'IN:v' ..
1~, (th m N.lt ~ mart..
5'Hve Ofotf
\tr.n.marll'"" !'ltnfto.l
\lrtH~ l~rt1(1h
ll.alf t>f .Jnnhole nu:.3t.~un:mcnt - - - - -
Mound h.md rn(';twr\'tll l:lll plu ~ l
4
- - - - -
fogute lb
,ogu<. 2
""'"'
All
\ (
\ n
\ f
,...,
dr.tw ,, lin~ In mhh.llc of l h \' p.lJ)Cr I."'((U;tlto

the l;nll sletw lcnlloth. IC'\\ 1. Square o ut
fmul 1\ .md 1\,
f . \qUllfl" HUI I Will C.
unC'h.Jif of A- It \quart' oul fro ru D. Fold on
the A n lhtc.
.umlu;ltnu,,,u1Ctllcn t . nraw t h l lin(' from 1\
IUoU(hlftR on lhl l>l c~.:p~ line. L'llwl f .. Dlvid('
lnlu foullh\ :md follow the ll lu ~t rO\Uon.
4JIM"hJ!f rJf .tr(JIIItKI hand ll"l(',ls-mntlnt.
l)r,.w .t llttt hum I tn tllu g 1/2 lnrh 1n
frnm I 1h.-w .a curVl"(l llnl' fwm a... blcn~l
mr. 1r1 tlbuw
__J
-
,,..,
-""
t nt1'111ktt lhr Jl,flll"fll, ull, .unl \!Itch to

thr t.:nu I hi' IIH 'lttvt un br mod~fit-d
lhl '"""' d, ~I lVI\
fi(I<JIO IC
Joonlng 11\0 Ribbing Sooms

F.gveJ1Q.O ~
Tht !("'tntfiR S~tm ~" the- tltlti<T\.t

tkl lln
(M\""' ~ ~ obOUa.
,f"~,~o,VI'I: h ('I ,YI'!le'l t-.Jo.~o, flt'..lt\" h
P\n
ullt>l~ ~~ tl"' t~ "u-:~ i\.lt ti-t~ 111 c- tl" t"'-

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lo>l Fll~ on<! So1V'>01'4
JW}.:a t'>
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Ponorn Plo t and Monip uto:lion
BODYSUIT DESIGN
VARIATIONS
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BodySUI1 Wt1h Hlgh Nac~ Hol1e1

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Pottem P\ot ones tl.o~letion
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Wolll. Sid e Soom, ond Necklk\o
LEOTARD FOUNDATION
t tw< rront
Inti
fOUl 3
tut. floclot.uJ li~"C'twr;,lh lU t ton 1lw ttlllll "'-1tln> th.lll
<-
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1 _.,.. Jl(h ....-;artl~ ( Ut.cl!UI nt,tJJrH'i ~ k ..~t;thh \;Jf\ .md ~Ill .111\Cl
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t>r;aw .a wr\'t'\1 tin~: lu~en .._,,'I.A\\11\)ot rltt'' hi'\UI'I.Ifl'
seporoto Poncuns
t~t;u~.. 1)111)1.'1 umkr tht' drolU. l'ln tlf '"'11~ t~(th\'t

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lto~n tht croc('h .and ~kkf' Pin to t.llr.t' up
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.a )'1\t.tm.ld 'h..lf" I \ll(lll\dKJihltw' \a,k of tht ~lttfR

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\br1 f, .11 tbc ~t .It Ydt tup Ot.lw .1 tux

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Color-Block Oesrgn 101 Lootord

Oollgn Ano lylls-Oollgn 1
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w.arn' <~lltk .armt~ .u~ hrJ'
o;g.,.,o
r OJ 7 fronl Leotard
tnm dr.111 h' lh<' frvnt IWC..hnt' .:tnd ~ ortnlO+
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r I(JIIo 1
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"'ll t"t' "'''"' lolf \!111M~ \>I \'$'f\'\C' \ 'th 1 dt'\11:1\\Url
~ h.:h rnxUulf oc'tfkt"nh ,>J tht ~I. t u
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\..td l b--trK.h ~~m' to.UI ~nm8 stdfosof lfw roiOr

tlir'lt"l... paur-rn) lllot ru';unkl ,~mboiiS 1ll um;~ tcd.
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f(ll n ('l:l'lk .and )lit ch u\l.lo'l.lli.k. ~ ~~ bSS
.lnd Nit\
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l)f;lv. \1\llf nt\ l..hnc .1nd ctU l'o'Uftn\ 11-.n'l f\lr"1'f
~ \
folgi."OS3 4 ~.pot019 Polletn

l flll l ~~~ ~fl1\ h i tht I UI.f,.ll tWt UhW
rhf' bolf10 fl) p~rt d f thr fUitUfl I\ Ulfl!jlll'fl'
Add t /lol JO( h
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\l,nl. \ , U\l lljt lht r\ --}1. n )C\t ii C'Ol('llt ol thf.' h:M:k
1'111 rn
w u~:lln .,l)'hlhiC'
l'liH..t' 1111 ~l.m )1t!.l on tht' \ l('t'l...-, (_1\~t l~pplng

u p It)' 1/ 4 lndl (cllml nllh.~ ~ "' Olllo\,netl..
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riiUid .11 jniiiiiiJI, IKNII I).
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.u wl '~" ' ' thr how ~ '''-'11 JI4Utll'lt"nl I\ t~~r..1 tht
ll.K .. IK,l.lhlt lh(' tc olluwlnJt lnlolflll.lil,.n tt.J"m

tllf' m't'd t(>l tllr \ trp .-.lfl.l\lltK'fll
8oct!. SltOP Ad~trnctf\1

fit\ \11~11 p4olo4.1'"11"1\ nl ... lh bokl. p.IU!'rn l11c konl.o~rd.
lll,.t)wlt, .and 1n..llll_, <k'""lJ')U h~\ \ntt .,,.. cut~IUt
Of'll.l.lif'lt 1\~\111 \: \IIJI.-dfl.l'lllltftl ( UUtnJ!: WI PNh
tol tllfo b.lcl.
lht l.nll lhfk "' 1tln r...S ~
;tlcoOJ! II"!(" \\II Ii i ~ !.till< t...-l. '*\ ...ll~ lo t-III"'UUif
- J.Pni \l.tt.h t ilt- 1'-'llt'ln t.ont thr 'A.olo\tlliW lltt
tht \I) kiln h~\ l!ln"l\ ~141~ cn tht p.aunntto. but
nc ot thwu,th the u..Jo '"-'Ill (l\.-rUp tht Jl"'tl~rn Wl
lit the \I f .Ill \'Aifllt\ lc' tht \t~otlll.l'l.klnft\ PC I Molf\1
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tht t~~:nttr lutt. nl.luw \loki tht- JHun n..t

tft'\IA'ol hh ttk- '*~1n101. 1lt t~tJ.III.L .II ,_f'Wn lht
lEOTAPO
PAGWI
ueow
t"Uffil"lk h 1\ol lt u( thlf t.-nl tcl(l dnf(lt Uftll>thu
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tonk Jop Oron

fi(JUI'M I. 2
lr.Kt> the lrn lll and le.\ lf(ot.H\J l'l.lllttn\

Mll4 th1.t.ml. lOll \ l) lt"linM, 1.1\ illl( UM. illu\U.IIIO!t
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f (J\1&6
( ut llw p..lll"'fn fr c..m tht P-lpr
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f~'<tUh\~ 1 til )'IMI J f \0 \111\Uft, dol \h JmiiiHIIJ t) !
1\ lld HtJ.\mh ....:.1111\ .II thl' t"l.lltMII ttt,l.ltrl(' ~nd
<srnpl'l'l\'" thr f'ol''' '"' "'"' c ,,, '''' .a tn t In

hie ;:. \lltthln,ll Af)lj f'U\tll a:u<l ~ ~ fMJtl \ ~"" \
.and ~>""
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(til IMth fll 1141111 t hl' ll.tllCf
RAOW.f StEEVE
LEOTAI!O
( M ll!)klt ti l\' P,) ll l'llt lc'll -' 1\'\1 lit
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l~c:l<lt lht:' \trJ~t II tin br t\1\ tn lin, l.i!Wit. The: tlr~

\flllt cn be: dto'\tlcl'!td ,...,th undtr~ut 01 h.Wt' h1tk
nr no bu't 'VJ'!)(IIt. t>r;a;n ~ins oo ~lt't bf:n
SWIMWEAR TYPES
Swimwear
In tlw mn('t~n t h tUlllll), \IHnt~'t'oil ,.,,~1l..S th~

l tmak II&:,Uh' hom n~'- tn ~ftltlh\ that ri\Ktu~lt'd
bet\\t-.n tlw \.JWt' at~t .\11\.ltrt~or\ot' "'lllh "''tit ne-t
.llh\'lll)'\ (C'IIl(I\Kh~ to ~\\unmlnt: hldl\ , \0\un"'T"
fl~lMWn (tJ'\cr muth It\\ .ttld ;all!'"' u01npkt\: frc.:
(~HII nf nwn,mtnt I hn ;t,n '~~tM'd \n a utk1\ C'O!
f.t~bi~, JHiiU\ ;and tt"Uit1>.1.1t(if\(lftWT' (Mit'lf't tu
'tft-Uh)' lmn
I hot' m..u \~hn\Utl klund.111on\ tlhMtlt'd tn tht1o
$WJMWl.AR TVft.S
MAJ.I.OI J()Ut~fi()H
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lcntC 101'*-&oo ~
Mc:J80t
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Ptft.~~
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At~nwne~ ~
..l(rA F()UHDI\flON
~
.ldl
600
602
663
666
667
668
.blH
&o n eoM<t on Molot Ot IAOiord
& n 8oMcl
" "on
' Hen 5I> ' f.oundotoon
..l(lf.jl tOrTOM VAA!AUONS
~utleg &l<o
81KINIIOII'VAR\AnoN$
Pmc. ..t.n9 &\.lr'lllop
Sttop \b'IOIIIOt\$
Btolop\\o1htton..'OI'If01~
Blo tops, lot &~<n Bottoms

Strng..O-lOI'IQ &kiN lOP
8oncau &klf'li 101)

UTJI,.E.eo'V llGUNE F0UNOA.110N
lJtllo 8ov ~ VoltOIIOnS
llt!~-&oy ()rQU
A.lll fiGVRt SWIM FOVNOA.IIOH
et:R
WI
.61'0
oi'O
.671
.671
thlrttf N\,. dt~intl c:t..atKIIfJ1\IIi(\ ~nd dtlln h.rt'l

clflt .atwlllhtr tn ~ nutnhn c11 ,..'"'\ tht tvt ol tht k'r.
bl'loc'. tht t\ pr col 1~\t WI"!'~~ If I. lhto 1\lllf nf l.lllut tn
"'hk h tht Wtl f\ tUI ;and ttk' \IUwutett dt-\u'f'd
\bllklt foundation 1,_. tut ,,. tht' k'(lint Kut~

tt'w kJ; \t..nlnJ: Jil UOI~h k\rl "'lliJ tno.h t Uf\111(
di~Ur~n
uouh k\TI "' ttw \-.k tht\ ocw-
,.,...,t
~t" ;.t.ltl 1\ IJ\UJilh tUI In \tttt\h\ l.ntU Mld dt,n

tti~\ tc) Ilk U~llllf \ ~lfltOUI lhf JrW\tmurn
\II\<Cth ~ JIIC'>Uf"lthc- li(Ut(' t.alhft' th.t.n UC\ md
ckno~ tt \t"l) littft \ltclth '' I'C'qUHnl tn ttw knc.1h of
ttw KJtnltlll lht' rNIII.,.t h~ hUI t'll nn tou't '\U....
put1 llf.lft 1~111~ Hfl j\,Jg\' fltlf)
fUI.inl fo.md.ttlon lht rut (lf dtt kgl!nt <tf the

IW4l-Jl'l~~ hi\.lfti t'IM.11tlt\ tlw ltJt \lolt\11'1,1 oil tf(I!ICh
ko.'t'l ilnd tn~h .11 \.UVII\1( dht ..nU'" ..tiO\~ uvh:h
on
073
67~
677
678
67Q
680
680
.082
J.,._F-IQU'O Swltn Orou

.682
SWIT\IIIJtt wrth $1<~1 ,-,ont
.68l
SUPPliES AND SPCIAL IN,-~MATION , , . . .~
l.)fol Of (~IIC
rll'li"ht'!QCIO!ChOnd~t
.685
686
fltn CUI)I tot" SwimWOOf
687
All'l" t>ing S"tOCX to SwlflUIJII
689
..
liU I('bO\ 1\"ltllflot:' IOUndaUQf\, .\ ont--ptf(f' nr ,.,.,_

f'l('tf' 'wfr~ttd lll r.t fU" hdo" tht '"'lii~lllntt faun
d.ltt tCJO hn 11 ~ nt ~ .,. tbr \ht:>n\ 01
'hml~m kn-.th. kuu.t.t tht luutw.b.t..-.n t\ <k-\'tkopN .. rth 111M\( M\11 s.Jt dan ton\11'01. lht' ~\1
~\lfl't' 1\ 41:.ftn<'d <lOll tluU niJ" Ql'l bt JoCkltod k'l' 'Up>
pnort. f dttllf'd. l'hr ~IClft QD l'1f' <vtn n~;>4
Iattn..' a. Iurn '-n.,_, (L11" Stmdu. ~ foundab.'lll
h .IIVI .1-fl t"U.dlf:m bbt kJc lf'l'lt'lf\ ~tnlltnl\ lind
\Uft._\ (lrollf\ h.-ctM M ~~ 6~
f ull flr;uml founocb.Uon. Tbt 0ftt1111t- k:tutld.ttom.

hob ~ krlt~ f:tldu'l~ aocch irttl IC'C.~~~N ~tv
founcilton k .,_doptd w.1b -*t .and 1fdt d.an
CfJI!'<I:t"Jl the~ bddlfted ~ tbor.stafd.w't\.
a.,.s <'~P' ~ 11'\t('11C'd..
tc-d!ti..'"' "t-n.tn ~
01\ tht bitt Joe ~-.dltrd 0( at.atur<: f.~.;ta. lt (U\
bt C\11 .ID ~IC' 1bt tt< ~ ..b U'e'll k oftalt <O'I'fft'4
nm
b'l. ~ ~n )Ut1dwl.f ._T....,~ tt. k<'IDt' jiiDll'<r'""' mo~..::h ""-d. l'\r--lr. ~c.on ~ t--.:.
l"'f"~.-=:. \\hrn cumtr: un~ ttx ...._,t.m\1111
\IJtt()'l ('l:1n Mound ~hoe~ I'JIIbtt ttun Dp .and
doWn lht b.-do. t..ftl() ~ ...-l!h ~' (II'
bit' C'~
S\VIMWI M
MAILLOT FOUNDATION
\~tl
I h\ m.Utlo! \lntU II h t k \ lc'tll.'llttl I.nit U l lflt" I IJ\ II 1,1: l h m l 141 h' I ll\I J'I. I t'lll
lll(nl ' II\'ll h " 11 h l"""t-1
k ,, 1 rt\ ,,, , 1, \ hltll>11J I III hnu..Uitlf1 to .111 I" hu n,l ln t h.atl \ I ' "' \1 ,1\llt>I d o ISII\ o ut In I.Uih ,, It h It'"' U'I'I C'h
Wol$t, SAM SOOm . ond Noctlllno

r\lUio .l
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.an " .kltutnJ II\ IlK n.a,iniC thrit It m:ch J tkl>illh I ht tillt>l b 1.a "I'' ,,m t-.. ''' h rmltwd '' tiH' tim-.. M lit
llfl( ' "-llll"'t'JI olt\\~tm'l l'l>ll'h'IUtHt'fl tk"lltll>~. ht lilt\U l h t l~\lh' .lmltl.h"'ll(tl \'\ ,tl('l ril'ttn t Htl ol lld
,tr,ll(
wn. ""'",."'' .u \ml l'14.111t~llot ,htlorHw h ''"' ' " h lft' Jltlh l u"' I ~~~- !t'''-1
'-''"'' h ...,..,, , Jh'IIIH-ltht
Pill- ~ M l l'k hlttll( Ml!J ton.-1""'1 hi~~~ t.~lll~l.t1M1f' f"ll~ Ill
M o;;Jot Draft
l'to~"
-.mt ,l.ut'f,ro.\ ko~omd,.tk>n. JU .."' fll\J
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.a ,,. nko~ l llf~ ,,., l"l""
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h....,"'. ''"
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1)!,11\ U 11~ lh\11\ e.. , I tU~ I t it~ \ 1 ,l!ll.l l oU 1 fl.-.~111.11 \,.'
l>t ,l\\ I Ill\ td IIUI"'\ li t HI\ h 1""11\jt II II' \fl...lllJIL
SopotOIO foundOUO" Po !toms

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t)!~<~ho~lt"' I l.-\\l~tlo(h
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.nr ~n"n-ll.illnl. t{~Jl "lthm t hr.a Ul ft.md .tt.tnl.
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Mo ollo1wUh Boo I lnlng

1111' ltlo!!lloul ' "hn\ull h k \ljt;il\"d ~~~olth .t hr llnilllt
I HUu~~~o thh ,.,,.m tlt llf uthl't \1\lln"lt ,t~_,lt:m tt
'fu lrlrtR lt~<o.l!.l;l 111\'i M J:t' '"~' tht hu\1 -'' t#
Mollol Ofon Without o 8ro Cue;.

Agu<.. I. 2
f~ t f'M> N'k l w tu ,1.nd hkl. n'l.lllll~l llii\.UMI.II
uon ~nrrm !l H-tkh \dlln .lr~ wllkk~ In lflt
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1 ht \C\kUnt h
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\11.... ul tiW' 111\ftl ~ntH:nl I tdiiM' {.1111 ~"'. fy,k \1.11

flf oil hiiC;h
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Mol l ht ~ttm u "'n( l ht IIIV\JU,Iilltn .t\ "' lt'Utlk

fJ"N-1\kJ. stnp lor.t~hon tuft"V\W'""I"' ('b\'" I
( ut lht p.~'Un i t< om tht J"f'ltl

ComplttC' thr J"l tt"fn lor,. ' "'' he
~ p.J('t o\~ J
.a
~Mk 1~ h t ;md JlooiU t m
~!Uwnft'll
Moillol Draft wilt> Bta Cup

f.gure!
f'lol thr Unl -f~ ,,._ tn'IUHI
l>rtl\\ 'b~ ,., ''"'"' ltk-'
.aJmhtf, nd 'Ide
tht bu,.t poe.nt
wo~m h J
Fq we $
( cntt'rlhed.ui JJOintllm h fHml l hebust pol nl.
hthlllt(' d.ue :~nd 1\'l.hJ''' th" ' lck> ''Mm h)' taking
from the ().ut lcJC. .1d<llng to t he ot hcr t'Ciuall~.
Wt IMirt''' 687 ;urd IJH-8 lm lmlru"tion on I:JO<;I
011, 111\.CIII\ Jrl .Jnd au at.h nw n t 10 lhc "''iul5u it,
IC\1 fi t
Maillo t OOt iQn Otol1

Flguro 1 f1ont
hrlhl\'" tf ,,,.,lwd
''Ill' " ' ,1 lltw hnm llw uutct 1141111 111 \
FOJreA
r..h,u uh l.lm ht' uhn\t tiH ,umh,lt illt11n lidt

Umhu1n " '......... l .lhotl A \tid tiiUI\' "'' xu.llt'l
Sl.i)ll frnm Ul'lt lit hmt(Witnt .1nd tft, nt>'llhruu~h .

.u mhnk \(l'rt.ad lt -4 lOth f~bf \ m,tllt r "'"" uti
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' ' IIIIth' 1\llt' lumtlw ttnttr lhmt 1 ln\h ,.._,~,"

lltt'l t .l hl.'l llli(U ld ~ lut ht~ 1111111)11
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kn.JIIh) t(llfrltl lwt

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PrincC'<S M o lilo l
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1'111111 un h~ ''\ l ~tnkd. nMI.InJI otm h tht '""''
md f,lt t.l '1.\ljl\ hl l1<t t.kd ti lht dC"'I.IKn whe-n
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f"Jnldn_K"'
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or
l'W" .t ~lm h ''~l H\lW' of ,~_,,,i<' honln~n ;u tht'

\~"\of ti"K' ~11111\\tit ( J\JI~f' b7ll.
I m tlw , wtch llnhlf:.. t'l.a\th, ;unl ' tr.lfl, ~
k'tiUlC'~
c 0 11111kiC' th(' p.ltttm~ fo :11~1 lit.
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'""""' '
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,.
-'dd l1nch ""'- ll\lllllllvbu\t (WMII.II :t110\ .lft4
l'krt I I"JC' f"'lt('tn, u\llllt Ilk" iiiU\II.IIklfl ;,n lt'Uidt

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limtc tht' ,~,.l~t ( ut '"11 M"llollollf 1\,llttm\
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tht'fi11t~ hvnl"' tlw f'llC'NI \kk "'- ;un ,h.ljt\lklt
l'flnCOU Moollol Or<>"
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SWIMI I{AA
Motllol Wll h lnsel Bto
Pol1on ~o1 onc:s tAon~c>Yiotlon

1. 2
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Il-l" \llp. ~ \hnto.u
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"qq.dr'C' 1+1lf
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7i"!.l , if
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lif'll tlt lti uf tlw kd rw
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Cf
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Ponem PlOt ond Monlpt,Aoflon
Asym"'''ernc Mo llet
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BIKINI FOUNDATION
rr. ' ..2tulllrrrnt.llnd full.,.... p~nnn.
f-qJ
Deoogn AAO!y>d
flo1 ..,.
ot ~.An .aftltlmt.IOC tol\irf nt l,otn tho.
oi.IJ.J."'f
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1lM bt .. rt
lluw radi.ttmt ~a\h hOf't from tht \Kilt w.am ot

thC' fr<:mt pAIItm
f ut thr ptttHm hom t1w ~ptr
_,
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~ t..n 1.1\Non 'tmllh ~ Pf't"'NN

prdtltnelt fld un bt a,t 6n CllnOm c.c \.lllb thr
l!lut\.1 b-~1.om c.an bt ._..on tht> m$.'\1
~co.
LlrJ:... Otuluptd from t"-' t.Dc: L~ t!:ll 1bt
b Uni t~lt.dn~-d f X1:1. tht fAt''* Gu16r hi
t\11dftll'
l.ttm. ""Oupkf ..
a.' ,.. 8o$ed on Mo 10'
ex teotoo ~OUI'lOO' .on

'9J01 I 2
r,... tbt tron &ad '* . ~,. Orl.'"lld.

lfm1 t~'"' ~~ to
pat
lrctr.ftl' lbf'Jld\ h:'ln ~
untr.-:td ttltiOftt
\q~tt' ll,.. fr!'JICQ un"1 tNttt and ur.n biO..
mtdw~ bttwttn " Jnd
r.c- t tM' 'IWI:
a.,
.,~n
Cutthctlilo.Jftlkoc, om trom p.prt Ubtt }..llfb~
tr.:c notfw r cf'PY adl.t!ttt 1 21ncb 10 tht \lldc

xlm. plut ,.. t.tV.h kor 'IUift aDow.ncu. Lltd
h MTII jOflh 1004 )itQ' lt. l t'\1
s,, n< Based on Fronr Sit tt

FoundatiOn
~.,. ~
\fu.'IIW " UC)r ~m
~ \t.
,.pn
Jet ..,"tb n4 ff'(t..fd\pcod u.nlll thl udt-
lld pUct aa
~m~'l ll 2. w2 t i!Dt'\ tllf' W~I IJM'I\Urt
mnn
\prad tG... f. If pr4'1oibk ~ umplt':

Gok kflflh
II\ l nthn. ~ud 2i II)
4.1f,.i)lrt.:
Jl,
1nch~
S\Ut' lt.l J-.pn lnd (f".Kt lilt ptUtfA'\ null +I!~

f.'rncJ run~ I m tht lidr
..,..m
"-t..dl ~
"rlntb """m~f' frttlt'" ymtl'"1hC
""- ; Ullt'
~-e- t ru I 1 '2 ~ fwm tiw lldr whtr('

'fi'1t:hr-t !.CC\In'Cl, blf:nd:u''!l 1t1 u Tr, , , """
.......
'
fr <'n 1 10 I
tn
\f('""""t'ttf \ tl'ok.l
121U ( IM("h knKlh --~
Fogur~
I 2
Tra.u thr front ltK '~ut frQfft tht t'l.lht IQ l'up

f<'\t'l \4auJ1t a lfrk ~ ln<hri ~n frnm frotlt
l~btl thC'nttr (ront Yolht <nd tone~ ln,truc
tkln\ fOI dlt' I<"C't.lr~. 'I.Utttntt h~ ( - l Ftc;un: tlwf ,.,..,
Tum I .: ~h tram 'lit.k
,.,! ,, tJIIfh I'" .ltl'll ""' tnchdt\1
.J
SWIMYIEAR
BIKINI BOlTOM VARIATIONS
fiQUfbS 20 0 ()&sign 1
lr,I\'\'IIW hl\t.lni f'f ttMI Ilu t
Vw mt'.urt'llkllh 10 nlfnlktt tht> dt>slgn.
Pottem Plol ond Monlpukllion

~lob
\dd l ~ itkh II \Ut 111 "''"~""

(..UI frm 1,...1"' .trll.l dujh,.tl"" 1\)f llk:lrulnJ:
fof CTtlt,h luum: .md C'LJ\Ik lntfUI.tlon
BIKINI TOP VARIATIONS

lh~: htid hl..,lnl 11111 '"''" tho: hu'l muth \U,C' .l I~ .111d h lht' pcrtm c:ompkmtnt !011 the~Um bntt~>in llw
'''"' h!<!h llh'~-lt,ltnl \hnut\1 I~ Uo,t~l '" .1 Jlllutlt hiC ''~;''l''"''"lt totl'tfl ''mLar bu dt',;,.n~ 8Ur.lni t(IJI1..1rt Nwd
em lht ~ nH~n ltuld\ l',tlhtn,, C h.lj'lt~;r '' lh~: hmt 1.\.\unfu~~:nt~k .&rufl'\t (c>t \lrlcltnqlil.Kt11k"nt 1'1ht\oo
r........ ,~ncrn ~111'1 n:nh_r lfllllt "'"'"' '~' .. ,,., ,,,,
67\
fJOV' 2D
I 1/2_ ;~ J/,4
,A
Ilk r\'\IU..IiOII JlUiddltk\ HI\ lht C 4lf\H'I\U to\lio,k t'JII\"IR\ <~:fl~\.lk tl\t' fUUn"nNl.n tQ C.OI\Iftw .xnJ.f,U.dw
.UI"MIIld th~ '""' ,,h,"k'\l\11(.1\ lnllltt\HOIIMIO,. II nut l.n.m~ tho:- Cnl'lt<lW (.uldr ro~.t\t:m_ ~ iiJU\Jf.l1 .. >M
.and nk,.,UI\'nl\1\h ~h,n ,., 01 ~tulrk lew J\oiUtm lk
11.1\.im qnP' uon br \tll~hed dltlf'l.th to tht t-.p
111 t~t~ll("'l.l t hiiMJith .a
\4-.h ,., '1'-'llhf111 '"~1""'- ~r.lf" un nt<"nd M)Und the Dt(\. tllf ' " " t~ \ho"'lllok"
.Uid un '" tW CJI' huthlfW\I IIU lur..l. 'tr.li\ Utili lOll\ OUt"
''*'"'It
'K'\"
~' "-'"" .tnd t>Sb
H'"'''"'""
Princess-Line Btktni Top
~rtw tttt..htt ...., .. \1\'ktu~ ,ul'\""" '"'"' tht> oo"
,..,..,.
c
f1114nt hnn'l tu,l H'
t"'""'"'" ll~lnU''\\ IIIWI
.,_,,1\
Poftetn Plot one Mcnouk:rlion

JO, I~~ lro
ruou ttw h<,..\1 < '"'!tr.Jal (IUIIk ~tc1"M l'w .a
~ rtn to trvt'Ju ~ """"4~
umtnvtl ~ f llrdn4ht+tN C'Onti:IW .1nd ..
tbf1~~ht-bi,N ~ U'>nnt ,.... -~
to bu\1 poit'\L
llnno'\~
Design 2-Golheled Cenlol Uno

roouo 3
c-ON"
hom,,_. 'loUt w.a"n.
,,,..lhr~dm&m~l~
.and hrA \1\ldi,_..,_ -'oiO~ IDtiM
tlft(hr\1
(_,ot\ t.\'tfl
lt,lol,(" "'' k lllkint hnru ;and 'J)f("<td lOt fulhl<"\5

l""th(' b;a<L ~nt to hlmplctt' tht dl."\.lgn.
I '
'
~,~.
Hogh-Culleg B' nl
The hdt.ni p.lnt ,.~ n b ~ten''\.! "ith hh-~ut lt~rr~
( lptnrnlt' .lnd ftlltr 1.111 romt 'h.IJJl'\ lunsr. tht
fOQu<O> 4o. b. c. 06slgn 3

flllfll
bll.lnl .1nll 'flrtad 2: I (Jligur( oil)).
Jj,j, 4 1l1,1W fN l.lllj.;ll' l',JlHII IO Wlth l ,lltd \CIUMC 10
lt'fll(lh of t it(' tuffll ll ;l~ur c -I b).
\i>h .ut 2 1 (Jol~o:ut( h'),
If.",.
1\.1\lhnt rf d4..'\IH:d.
'
IIIIII
:;\
LJ
"'\ r---...
v-
672
CNJP-' 1' 30
<ul ~U.lJ' fnom thl ~Item. tttr<'('t'. >Jnd<~dd ~m~.

[
....--.....
S:!VNEAA
FtQt;! SttOO f.rome (8me tor Strop \~::mo"'O"tS)
'l
t
I'
OesiQn AnoiVJiJ
Thf '"klint (lf tht b\\1!\ll>r<"IIO\~ th(" tlv\\ r'C.IIJ)t\

trom tht etmtt lt<W'ilta the ' ,,.. .....m l;w f"C"I"~'
n'IU\Urn1\ofni\N thf>'
J.l''"'
f9nb-~
LfM.(th. \ k'.wtt frnm tM front bra to mid-shouldn
"'"r
nd .w 1 ~
~\1Jih .\~ dt'\lrt:d rurtlpk: ltnr,th. 20 ,nchfj.;
"'Wth. z 1nd'w1- flm~ to 3 -1 inchl.
, ,..,.._ a buuton.holt l lrkM from thil' pa.nrm
to t\Kt.
Bra Top wtth Horizontal Stylelne
'P"" bUttonholn ., ~ n.
..,... l- " -
f .... ....
S'rop 'vti'IO' .OOS
_ ....
--!
r.es:rop
VQ..tf! 1ra lht ~U<lP trmw QC'IIdd 1tuU \H>JP '""""'" '
.,\1~nd 10 tnchn .an4 w~ tht ht tnd
Dr:Jw 1 J:'f1.Ul.l rw "'nd idd I ~ltkh vJtn\ Cut
ftrn thot PIPft
eunon Control with E~stic

Fogv<O 8
lfl tlu \ Uap fJame on fold (full ~tr).p shO\,O).
bt( nd 2 112 in( h4..'\ \la:rl.. l lnch in hom A
!Indicate\ cent~ b olCl l. \t;uL S l nche1. in from
\ l.abtl lt
\larl.. buuonholl: lnd tllCt,unon plact.nent.
Cut two eloll11<" \trlp s M-4 1nch x of l ncheJ. (l!l:n
tl< b l\lt.old U,d ;u A ,1nd suetclu:d to pOint 8
tW"l\\"t.' tn lhe fold~.)
Or. a unp a 1 2 .ncht1 -, 1llnchn c1at tn)
"'4"
Cut rwo ~
H2 n&:h ,. , ndK"l
\ltrtLh fi.l\!A wtwn. Wtloffltd br1wtm 1.-.kl" and
\W h..
f '.lld 1r. ur..p 10 m.lU a ~JOP a M tt t h Thr

Ulht:t "'P h kAcStd ~n lbt her... and UitdJtd
(1lw 1-A. h lnvncd :ttJ dw ltoOr 10 W(Uft tht
"""""
L . ~
'
jo4n tht ll.liiHI\ ~tlclm l rlUt,;e tht t11.a to pro\ "1dt rro~n for tht l'mt mound
lltU,.,<', dtJW g_1.1lnlinl'"\ $kl W"-.\m~ !no t \hl'l'ftiH
Cut h u m p.l~f, Tr.ttt bt.JI)~Itt'flh forth<' Unull(
11,,, ,r~o~r: ~co tht> pllnc'"' hllr.:lnt hlf'. Ui'"'' tl.
,,.~t.' 6 72.
llik .l. ~ltJP; \tt' 1),1$:\" fi 7Z. f1~1.1r~ 4 thrtout:.h 4.
.,
2 1/2
.I""'
F9)'0 3
SIWOP trcvne
;rurc l
_
..
...-
~;~
------.,_v
613
OosJgn Anotv.sls: Ooslgn 1
Bra Tops tor Bikini BoHoms
Umt ntJI' .lrt' 'HIIIIt'tlt'(l wtth \14fnC'h tl~!otic. It

1\ .._,,.,trt-.:1 with f.lllllt. l iH: "mk>r'' lr(' is wr-.ti~)C(I
lulu tht tlnhln-d
o( t l11. 'tatll .1/lowiln. SC'C
I"'~ It:'.!, IIJ:lll\"\ 4 .md .\,fur ti(Ji.:urC'\ U.)('tl nith
\\~l'll'fl f.tllfk\
lllC' hr;t 1,,1, 1~ .ll\.0 a ' '''flicm ih rn lhJII J.,."i"- \ '' llh
'""" ~nd \.r..1rc._
~""OtiVIl
nw lr ...n 1111 u11n '1$ndt\ ,u '"
I hor UtK1l milt' h \lllliK,I lmu lht
'"""t'
llcn"'\'('1, \ht-11 CUI jll umcm, .JI.I~I l i M i!l<eh

fn 1/l( JUIIt'm l1il'CC"> IH>Ihlf1lk't"\ ntl \lt~h til flut'<'
diiiC"IC'I'II N;a hlf"\ ,u, rltu~U.ah_,l
'<-~''"So
figures 5o bfw'lliht't<1 Blo 1-'-'0

ht~
~..un ~~
thr
tlw 'hltt"-' nt Uw <11~'"'"''11.' h "h"""'" in
I '"'Ill ~
'''I'
UM" ""'H"K '""'"""'"'' "" c:omn,thtlt. tlu

tn Ilk bt.lo I\ O il 11.11):.(' fo71, I iRUh' f\, .uull"~ f~'J
OetiQn Anotyll> OetiQn 2

f1w l~ntk.IIU t\ c:nntw4kd ;U ttk- Ct'ntC:t ftont nh .1
"-'1'''~
llgo..<o 1
h.wv tlw Ulll"'-'' m~\llc,. t'lll~cn'
rt.oc tlwln.t.tnd W\L IMrkl. U\hlt:.tht lllu,U,.h11n
Fol', 2
Ttxt ttw hntll:l"'U.JI \1\ If hu p;ntrtn t 1'\'Kt' tJ:' iJ
l)r;a"' tht f:.1.1. U\ll'l.JI. tiN 11111\ltJhOil Jl\. ):Ukl\' luf

pk;Hrn~ th.r p.ath:m Hllf UU\t" ot lht hullnlll
P.lkm ..nuuld h)ll '"' lht unck"'lh' \h;t(l\:
1lk" ~~eJth ~~ \ld otrhc- tnp br.l 1\
\ I,~
tncht'
..
....
l'w lht.: nuui"Jt Jl.lltrm lulol\dop th..- W11hh Jnd

atn~thnflht h.klr. bra \lt.lpfo,~~ p.i;.( f'"l , HKIIIt' I)_
\dd IIi mh \t,.nunlcut trum Jllll'l
l,o~
.J], ll
\ll'.I\UU.' llw
Uu"" L '"P IUIJI:'%
t 4 ancht\
li\11c '' "PJ>nJ throudt thr I<~ and "trtw.l u.

CUI4 j """h""'flrtU\tK I nch.,llfil Tlw-
"'fK'C 1 ltw- hr.11 c\Jp-.
.
. ..
..
SMch bto
IOOQiher
flgui'O ~LOOP
'"'I' ll'n)tth for tit :uhuncl n~:d:.

(m
llt,ll\' lh t lc>~~tl IIIII\' _., llhutr,Jt t\1

\t'l' l),l~l' l 72 ftlf ~tl "li l\'\ It tht b l,t b tVI in ,l
W(htlll l,lbtll.
dol)li( tnwrtion. S\"t' 1a~c 672,
ll~tUt' h, ((If j.;U)dJIII{(.'.
~.um
I oQvftl l
]1/2
lo.,
t f
\farlnutt hti
L-_ _ _ _
t ut tiMIl.lltd\-.lll Oil hM
Ftgur~ It
,I\ .I Kttld
\lid ilK-inch
f 1 0,
f9e 11W ~ Strop
n
-:It$
.....
1:-.-l. hc>kh th(' ~nfk'lll 1~1 tiM. ltv;ucc: ( ut tiw' b.kL

\trap on IOld"' h.-n tul in )tWf'tlk'\ \\he-n c:-ut ln -IC
t(W\ lM u41'M"f "'" ~ n IJt.,K\. "'"' IUI:C' ft~ .t for ''l~of
c:kto'\Uf(""\ (lot\lf\"41
-...u-.c ~~ ,.,._ "ldt w~m \ ,,,.,,.._""'' ttw
Shlng u Long lllklnllop

Dtnlon A~V"'
111~ 1-t..ll\1
"''""
llh ''" .u ,,._. ,.,_~ '"''" "'1111
1111 '"
"'''"-~' m.... .- "''"~t''
.-u_.,,"-'
' ''' tht
'-jl.ll:htUI \IMII j l\1 1~'1 lh i,.Ujr.h 1"4t1HI htllllh"- , .,
ln~t .at~l
tk'\1 lu lho I "' I h.,, h J1.1lht n..S tulk' II tot'

' "' ''.,Itt~ I I\ .... u t.~ott\1 '"' Un,-.1
Poi!Ott'l ~ 01\d Mo~puk)tiOI'\

f JJI'~ 1
h.._,. lllol; lf.,l\1 I llfliiiUI (oUklt I'11Unn
""111.111
t1lf1
I 4 11\lt h Itt"'"' lht 1'111'.1 I 11IIC'1 .\ o~fl<1
I' I tnch In I! '"'th~ . . . ""''-"'
nu .. lt'llk.\o. hl'lf' h<lfl\ l>\1'\.l ~ '''
nt\'
ttM'tK't
\hi~\ lftthn "'"' IH~I'I M\ J~IU Cl1111t ~

.lln4~1'C'~' ...Olbt..,C'Mb\Mko
lit .a" lrwu.. \"'"'a_

,,. ., ..,, """"~'' NI'T t "' lftlh hewn illllt
~lf\WU~
r.,._~_,.
tvooni)O!tf'm
.......,., \N"<J ~nd
IN._,. tctoom $Jf'MI
'""""2
rq.. ,.,
~~~l(!p& nJ:Ih<t Br CUl'
rr~C' lh """~ bf \h.IJ' ,.,. """' \ ckt tt

"..n """ 1 ' Ukh o,c-,un .11k,..,,..,.:
liU\1
ft.M.. 1.. R.lnd
1n..t" tl.k.._ m.ad~ j\Jtt('fn ut.l d,dr '"' t,..., t..
han11 paurm t'-"'
]-.~
f.
'---:
4l~~~l'd~.._
Md
l~itt' f!oM\ ~ I 1.11 d~o~I1111Jt
ll'l\11\kl .. oft\ 1
""= I'YIC\' ~ ....! IH( I hot d.~.... II

~,,,..n
tht hfol
h \lll ill ..
1o1lorn
Ut;t,~,. htt>t '"' ' 1 .!

( ~lfl1!*"1('
ttw lt.J,Ih rn
4 tn1 ht"\
l<lf .1 lt"~t ht
....
Bondeou Bikini Top
UTILE-BOY LEGLINE FOUNDATION
Design Analysis
11~ 1\lrkl~.tt.t~llt"-1 hll.ini h~P h ,.uppot'llt'\1 h\ .a
,1\)~h,lll 'U"f' P''lk,l Um,~h .t l'kiNd, hl'~fl.jtl

..tth~~. "'""" llw ..u ..p I=(""' "'"u11d tht " ' ' l. ,md lit"'
'" b.M.l.
'*".,
._,
Polletn Plot and Manipuloi10n
Tr.k"'t' thor
'Qu.lft' .t
It""' (
l lof'llt'UI t.u...k r.m~n
'""'
hM
tr,..n mu,.. '""'' 1 " 11"h ~t""'"
\IN"W~ In l1nch
""'"
'b~ ttlc (ft,.,b p'lnl
'"'"' Ut"(h J'l.ltf\1
ur l
:Z.
lno.M
tht ("fCIIII\h Uti\"' \t;u\ .-1'1\t \h.t'l'l
.II 1.1.l\h
"llf.I\Utf
hn.: I U ltk kJ_tint. 01\ """""
-..)
1 -4 tnc.h
J ~ -h-~w..lm'
~~ thl- ~ .and <f<'llch ~rt~
";."
"hen: ~n
[lr;a" <Un't'd Inn \+1UI;hii1.C
1. 2
lr...,f' ltHnt .1rkl ~ .. '""'" lumi"'U'' ' '' 1 1 l

lilt~ lkltw. '""'h 1)1.""' t >tl lnw:~m '''the:''' nt
.ind h.k\ llor.t'l'l .illkttt1111t htk lniiW ~ ~~m
~~ ( mhh k'''' ,., <h.l"~<~ .i kj:luto- p..u.aUd W\lh
.akWI(
\~.1~ 1.n
utot\h k\~11., .1 '""~ cut ltlfo.l4..c-n hl'llf'l
thor cor .and 1 " u"h """" thoc "14111111 .lnd

1 :_ lnd'l '"'' tn..n d\ot ~ '" tho( ~n.uml('ft"lkt'
'*'"""
lli119-Bov o.o
tht nort.
(,ut 1M bf,l'kit-.lu Ito om tht- J'.IHt"fl'l
ragu.o 2
lh tr;toe.\' on tht ftlhJ
l)r.l t ht' ~:,r.elnlln~ h H.liRhl oc bl.as. \ dd
l i Z huh f111 f(lklh;t\1.. IC.hlllf:.l. ,\11 ot h~r {,(')Ill\
.Jit'
lftl tnd t.
( ut bhl\ ' ' 'a1: I mth " c-Al hlt'IH.")..

( ntlrtm jlJJ!It' l ;uultr..o th~ l);lllt'm lm a llnhl):.,
II d~,ir('c.l.
...,
CtOtch
... .
I 112
,.:J
I
hgurQ$3, d
,,,
"uMt \rue
I Ukh lfl'lm th(' .t<l

I
""'"
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.a
~~
d ,"'\1.1 tn
flf"l'l)(l'l<' 1 : lfto.:h tmlllll'w:
111
( ul ,1 ' l"'h Um tv. rlt}l tht~lfl,h. , u,hh

(h\'ri,IJI ll.i: lndl.Uhl t.ll~' ll!Ahhf\\ ltW lq,:I UK'I.
ro-res'
s
l(l:.r!C' " "'-... ,.mPt't't'if ~.~ :Xltl
\ ..' - .N '
... . . .$_. .,. . .,_. ,_,.
""*" from . . . "'*" t.cl
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. . . \.IMidC'Ieltd!l
~( ~""Ira.'
Or me
.It,
~- . . . -~'U.
.... ,. ...
., tbown ~~~or......_..
or..nt.~o~~
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:: ....'4-fg..re s-. - :Yo-
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---- ...-
-~
'-'
""""".
.......
r:.
J .
..""'
"
~-,....,,~
'trk"t 1bt t;'CW

\l.llldlctm:
lftdllulltik-' , .,,.. lw
~ ,.
~ . :odt:!lftn ~
~
--'".b:s:: . . . . . .aod .. ccnt.ano et tllnll. ~
::ot\ 1D
3
-.
t~"" tbr bon!
~ ..
c..l CNUb
""* IP - - <t ....

"'"
"""-..,- ... .._ "-'*"'-"'"'"' "" ... -
"""'
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n..:
tbr
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d bid~
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an.S..: D a:::bro*:.
... 1 l : ""-"""hn .-...
\k&Wft' In I I ~ """"~ tbt .urla.

Dr.WW II~ ..
b UW twW 1idr ..-.-
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'l!lr llftll.NC.'DCim ~ b tbc ~ ~

'
,._..
..
pare'
~-"' .... ~'91"9~

lv~UCJCA~ac:: ..
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1'1
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en
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'
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~.
h;,..ll'r>1 3. 4
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hln \n I lUll \ ilrld hlntl ,,, \hr.wn (llu t.~n 1111('\
hitlit .til' v rt,:ln11l pallt'lll.) kt'l l.n(' I ll.f'Uil' H.
lhllt' tht jlrotfltm' wit h lin- h(lllt n "' l i M fokl

tf IS:l"t'' 111nd \t
\l.j, / 'oltiNPI
11Mt t il(' ht>l! l km"tt 1o4.'<1klll tlfl 14. . -'Ud \l.j i.I;Jf('
1111111 ,tfllrl hunt .tl tU~tll k'\>tl In th4" \kk-
Mh.l I ~nch tn htnr h.n

t.~tthnttell ut 1 I!Mh lt\kkl'l"'' "- tul to 'l.irt I"'''
SUPPLIES AND SPECIAL INFORMATION

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flit l'lll'tlllotTII tho btnl rnontd'\. tJtwt. 1 IIW' hull 'I h~
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Crotch Unlng PoHern
f<Ou'
l,.u; ttw fronl rHtrn fwm th~uotth IO'PPfOX

ltl'WWIV 6 IJit hi'\ up (I inc h f\.1 Ul)U;:h l~t.h,
fknWJ\t ttM JWIIt'fr't Oti""' a cun.-td liM tn lht-
kl. .n \t..-..... rl
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( ut lfnm I hi p.af!in.
Cups fO< SWimwoor
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runtI I1M 4 Inc~ "I' Ito m ttw bo"l rn

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ChOPHtr 30
F~gure 3
lttf!l(l'<' th~ dart \lltt hC$ from UH.' fr;ame and

u;u1 l'attc-rn on fold. tr.ln\fcrrlns J:K'Odltd out
tint or tilt br.1 ntp. Alit"'' t / 4 lnt"h (OJ <~Uach.ng
tht ltl.l cup~ ( ut hom l'l.)~f.
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\Htch tht' framt' 'lot'.lrns togcU'K"f. FoiiU'l'' lnsuuc
11om fOf tht' bt cut out.xhmrnt fm bra <Up I.
Ftlt..!)oii("L C"&:il).lk C<ln bt OlttM'ht'd .a10Jl8 l.ht S4)'1~
lint for comfort
Bro Frome 2
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k f
Tra th~ J~lll m l1{ tlk' l~tlktUnnt l\4,"1;"1 w\ Of
bra In~ I{tit tn flbrl<: and )!rtch tAr;~ ~ ith t-mJ'Mfl" U) ltllrH."
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Attaching Strops to Swimsut

I ht' IOIIOY.ItlJI in\lftJ\ tlrm\ -'fill>!)' to hiKh '"'im\ult'
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f\n tn ~II' M tht IJbrk

Fflldl 1t1 rtw t-up nuthnt
rr..mr (lfl t-rm Clf 11$\!ft'

Put br.a C'UP" 0'"('1' UW toa.ttn.. .and the bu~ mound
~'II' bu"t cupt frucn rh..- aartlk"nt RttnM\'

1op uom the' ftrm
Bro home 3: Bto Free Hong.!ng Uning

fiQUre 1
lr-'tt the h-,.p I~'' of the ~lgn br~ .
X~uo~rc a hnt h\)m i.cntcf fmnt, cros'ir\g 1/21nch

below bu't .m:
M.lrk ~Ide wam widlll according to 11\t dt's-tsn.
~h.;mucout 1 tm h .md iJrn"' th<. undcrbu.s <.'Utvt.
~ollll\\' lmtruIOil) ~1v-c n In th~ ilhr ~ tr.l tlon.
1 h..- lining b ~tltd\4.--d Into the top w'ilh cla~t lc
(If ('111~114. h ~l}('d) .
Nou h t''l ,uc ll)arked linch In from th<.' front .1nd
~ld..- for hll m~' undf.'l th(' bust.
, --ouro 1
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\~<..tch ('l(.r,,c
tot ....t\2: 1o2:1n 1
tht a,&lmt"nt
l'ttl bk\. the" tw;a IJnln$. .and ,Jtp Uw '"''P

throu_ah f\n thor \lt.lp \ll tNt it h ttnWtd
\t1t'h ~' to hukJ 11 i~urt' z..,,
Trtm thor potru Ul wuhln liM to l'lb ln"h frum:
UO\\ \HtdtlfilUI(' Zbt
1'\llllht' 'U"P tht0\1-.h .1nd turn JI:Jtmc:nt tn ttw
riJ:ht \~ .\ ttlt<h ik.JCJ'\\ tht' mo~p attJ mt~
.and m"nJCiht'n' tht' pull on t~ 1t1Jp lnoe
lllu\lr.Jttdl
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chooter
Introduction
to Childrenswear
Chlldronsweor Challenges
( l t,;thiK \ h!t\l h nwt.u "in' .,.,m, lion\' th41h:-llJII' l<l
ti\C' tl."-iJi,tlt I ;u~ l lUihflll'n.lhi ( ll'lllllfl. "'hlc-h I t

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n~ 1ft' llllf"'""n t th.u tll I t ht 'rt.-tlun '" \ "'"''\""""'' .. ,
\\ h 1tl; .adult\ ~r(' "'-"'"''llmt"\ "'dhn lu ~htt (,.01 .
li'lfl I< lf .tnt llo\1 k \, ~ h lkJtnt Ill'\ \"t .11{' I ht l._l'-lll\"\\ tof
thtl!.h tn '' ht lot.1Ul In \IJH\""hlh unJllt\11 tlw

4... 1 \lhkh I( III'Wnt: hitt~"'\ thtkJI'\'1\
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Sole~
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-""""'
Sill CAJ'(G()ft$ fOR CtllDREHSWEAR
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$&ZING M1l100S
AiiVfno'!. $it.tnQ
SOURCES Of INSPIRAOON
Children ' fOIINon R0!6191'1CM ,
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Reptesentollve Sozes
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Leg Measurements
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Standard Measurement Chart for Boys and Girts
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FOR GIRLS AND BOYS
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ljl"t('
&fi'J ,,,,.. \la1L Oil I\
II""' hod.t~ Ibn~ \&<ttLd..rtl.nta,c. lrZ

k.o. 14111. \tut. tht 11N cb:rt In: tn trWch tht
bao. L br4u Wn It-:. \t...n, 4Mt tt~lu.( I
\be\. cmcn of <"Kh d.ut ~ ~ .,.._"
:! 1 ! tndln lo.."t bon~ d..n .nd 110 s IOdin rc
Fq.HI
llt"' IliM' fwm J Hi to;, l<'t.Kh
L-\ f I cbrt lnu.k for tk~h \lin
11\1 tllpill\ t
fl ft)\\.11\l tel hll1
II .I)
"fu.llt' doft n I til

"idt' lt'ngth 17).
tnt (
I "'wtt llut \t..rl thrt fin~. \bn tt;. to m.at.\.b ~
\f\ '"""'
\lo.htltna1h r.., d~.""l'~"h
tn~. \to~rL.
J...l
t....l,..ll i&nd 'lq\JJt(" ~n to lwmllnt' l.ollbri htm
J .-nd h1pJr,.
\fN\IUflN<'Ifh
.A..G lll2 1 t 1ot:t\. 2 J 4 thll4t

G-H ~houldn kt~'1h 18), phn I .a flf N\4'
hun chrood'll- 1-*1 t1 )qwn. do'l"n htlm
<rtf hM 10 tntt'f'\C'\.1 "llh 0 luK"
S.l
"'~~~~ .ttc {I .fl. plu~ I .a t'.IM' .and I tcw ..Urt
J-k
\oiJt WI'J l'f"'-O'W'!f

\l;u\ .. pr,.n\ Ut'lll'ftd btrvoem P"IAU u .lnCl (f
----
704
ChOP'EW 3?
Bosie Sleeve
l hl ) l:tnd.lrt.l \ It{'\(' th,lfl R1(',~\Uit'fiH.'"I11 \ llf)ly

th(' ..1,4'\~htn
1ll(' d r;lfl ~flfM~ 10 bt'lth dtf' Jtfl'Mifl'\ 1111d fC'I'O

~ n.('.1\"'f'l'~ap~wf~r Utr'\ t ,,~,,x ha.htl\rt
]f.t ulcfl . .1rld I tO II 4 irMh ftlf'll't"\ 7 10 f.,j ll~
..~-1!' eAp ('~~an bt .tdJtHtf\1. ""' c hJtrttr t
(;.home' mC'~uft'mtlm fhf \001 motki..Uil' fmm
thC' ~f't''C'dr;ah mtAtUif'rnf'fll) rh11 I hll' dlrdht
~'f' dn.tt ll "" <..hlpt'~" J!.
....
8-0
D-U
11114
klll:lh
c"'P tlrll,ll
"", r;- -
......
, __,,
....
lf4
.r~
iii
tTIIK
,,-""a-
'" 1111
-.. ""
.'"'
If~
oa
a
10
11 ~
7/K
~/It
9 ,.
"18
'\IS
.. '
1-k-f'\C' kngth ()fl.._ hnc- ,, the- ntn t...
'"'
riQVI'MlO b
\h"l''"' ''" \frrw t JJI
111K('.llr(I!CI!mlclf"M.hhl"tt,j, . c
..._lhw 11 IJ!UH \/II
""
frnm both Ullin at .\.c. () .~rnd a

(...[ ()OC'-h.Jif of bitq~~ mt.wrm~mt \Urt..
iii~
'"' 1),1\C
"
r ., ...~ t~ ruk t.oudun~ i,l .l11d blC'nd "''' "
'<>
'
.,14-
f"'-"llw> tUI4-1t.ll;l(htl"i( t, (, .ancJ h'--04 tlllth
......,
m '"
-\
'
Ol.,."ldt i\-f nd '-f tnt.J fourth'

UrbtiN.r:L ~~ (, H .and I
L.abt:l front '""" ~ J ._ .lnd l
B-\1 1 l.l'kb ""' uun r-F
8-.' 8-\1
Dr;a\ l hnC' from \1 to F ;and ' to f
FRONT
BACK
1tM. tllu\u;aHnn In fhrurt-1 ;a,
..,.,
,.,...
'
Ill M.ulo.
'
tit" cf !Itt llllllhllk' Nld.

~hill thr ~c:nt1 rtJJ~ n mt.h In the dilnlluel o ltht
';]
I
'"""' II
fl,lt'.ll l"ol l'JW t fl'\jllo,\Htt' lhf ""' l..,\,lf ntn'\\olf'
In !m h 'J\t' cu l.lic lt "\t' lht' tJt'"" If hktr. "''1U~~ fZ \djU\t S ,un l '"~lll.llh In lh~ \flit' ''
t h UIK\'d '
'I
\ h ()l lhhr
....,. rI
&Kt
rw
I will dttl'f'' \l,ulr.um rmuh .11 1 c -trlttl n()t(h h

p l.Ul"''lllflcttlll\" ,,.,, (~\4' h lf( lt:trn!tWd '
M 1ul. o n lh~ fro111 .uu llMtk \ lnH' ,_.,, l'lll~ It' thr
'------!1~---_!:<'!j__..:!VItiSI
"
lt!()t11
II
'
.SINW I P Mt~,lr(\
/l.,k k 'lr"n'. M.ll._ rurl~ h til l .lrul .mctthu 112* Ul'
.11 Wk
Square 0..11 hr.m H. I It< l. ~l"'"tl .~rnd J, k

lfront '~1'1 t(l th" m()Unt un
Squatt In t G fbi(L llt't""C'J nd 1 1front
tletVtJ. ChoMt-th,. .~rmount ffflth4' \ltf' bon"
drafted.
"
-:
cl
I) I,IW .a lhw j rm n (} III rooJth k 111 t'\jiLll I ht 0. \I lint

1,.1htl \ .tml wnllm~> I hi: lint 1n:.;
0
~< 2
"
llbh w IMrl l'lr.c~m('nl

H-1' lwlf of() IY \l.ulo.
() Q
I ll"" lhr d.111 iut.t\1
~~
Preparing Sl..,.,.. Cop 1o< Shaping
<>
()r;a~ hM1 from o\ tG [ .md 'tO f
1h 11
l'tii<C'"
ru.\t 11
11 lint IIhtrtt.h
iJtlllt tulor
U!! '"'M.hlnR A, I. II c llllllhlUtllw- l!ftll -
"
c-r c..
t1
'"' nut
........,..., .... IOifCft ....
Squ;a.lf' out
FQI~
t(t
kf'fl'h
tNP'I'"
c:ap hrithl lf'\.abl~ . .~ "''""
OOC'-Ntf ol 8-C
I l1nt.h up tn.t~bh1-hon t1tw- .....~~~
,A.(
'
SleeYe Ofotf
A-8
70~
Sloovo Oron Moosurernents
'"
_,../
I)
chapter
COU.ARS SUEVU. ANO $1P1S
Collars, Sleeves,
and Skirts
COLLARS
701
2. Sotior Collor
kl
' '"\1:11 ,.
1 ht' t h'i'l'f\ , 11'1 nHflc'l<~&:\

~hl-1
Afilltom
lct Hlll.-r lh'\('ii'IWntlll ~h h"Ut'l\1 If\ C hlj~tt HI
_,./
COLLAR DESIGNS
t Cttlu.. lh.tl .ut: """""" tltri'O\ tt~~~: '-tt1M dto~h '"..'"""
hc0fl\tf\t1lltof Jdl.lll
,,,.&.,,
lh 1t~c w 1\ltt numhtt' f.l.,
COUAIIS
.l01
l07
COUAA OUIGHS
I !lwt Coler
l01
2 SalotCCiat
~.,..Pan Celar
Color a'ld S'<Jnd
(WtfllS.SSUM JOUNDillnQN
OOr~~~
...........
SlUVU
1 LegoM~Atm
J~tgl~
eot-
SUtVE OUIGN VAAIAnoN$

C"'P
Oellgn 1
Sle.,,.
Jilu~@d ~-Oe\IQI"'
""
""
101
lOa
lOa
.liP
1fP
71>'
11>'
1fP
Souc.. -..-o..gn3
Boby Pvll Sleeve-0eSigll4
O.OW."'((SIIIIU$
I 1-' Slnrt5
2 Cotc;oetes/PotiCJI CwcleS
3 GortS'd
II PlootOd S*trl
~ ~ult Ooele Sll.lrl
rtor-ct Sh't
Golt\19r0d ~~with S~Gd W01$18onc:l
Vokll(.t CtteiJor Sklrl
.710
111
111
111
712
,713
.713
U\("
\hirt '""'' I.,.I'C' IMI

2
'-lttolf ctl<ll.lt
r.-tn
* *
1vcr IN!;
r.t.n nllll.u
( cIJ~t ..not \UHI
l~fn lfi4.-IIH
f\11~ 1 1f~
utt.-r ct4Ut ..J.on' ful~
1 Shirt Collar
d
.710
'"'Ytt'
,,j
713
.713
713
713
.714
.71S
..716
3. Peter Pon Collor
COIIor ond Stand
COJ.WIS. SlEMS.AN()~
rur,. I
DARTLESS SLEEVE
FOUNDATION
SLEEVES
The- \l.lttk ~'t h df\~I<Jtl('I.IIIOOI tht" b.l'k ik\"\T.

Tht dank" ~"'~~.:an bt U)("d a' ;~1'-1'4.' for \.1\i'' nc,l
~u~ ;a,n "I~' cJ.an 1\<IV t\pM (M dJrltn' 'l~t
toundltl(lf't .JI'(' ilh.at.lrOJttd. lht h&ll ~~ dnd thf' hJII
sift'\~ l'14' eM fuU dJrt~ .!ol'( t(ll '''~ \ll"\lJcn'
tNt un on tath ~(If thr J:,t.llnlint .ami tht tt.~lf
~T for ddlpll th.Jt I'(' ttM: \oJJl~ (111'1 the t\KL .ultJ
front ~TeU'tp( kif tht(UnT"' tht ltont uf"'ult'
~ IIDf from tht p.11inluw '" lront h(mllnr
contutUt liM KJc~u cht p.autm tbrot..ton
mel
boo tnd.att tJw CJif'\('l.n.al Mmhntl

Sqwtt lint' c;iooft'ft uom ~ ~ trhow dirt
btbmitu.ttd..'
~2
\tu.wrt Uld ""''" ont-half ~ tntr\ mt.a~urt

mmt <l'.lt ttt~m tach 'Wk nl tht ,rrjlnlhlf .11nd
dn linn to btc:t'p\ for ITftttnc('.
()!\Ide the ~~~'- lftt() fl'l\lt tqWIJ p~ru .and dr~w
hnn throuch tht p.ltnn.
l)i' rdor the ap Into fw tq\lill J.-'.lith
Cut tht \ief'\o. from paper
lh>'l iU<' \hO~n fotUOW tht- \.At~\l' lr\\lt

\II1
" " '"
I ht foUnwlntt p.ljt\" m.mlbt" t~,, t .h I
\let"\'('\
...
...
.
..
WIC StfE\1
Oortless Sleeve Draft

~~
Tra cht b.&SK ~~ tl:loroltn lint" I
l Puff Sleeve
!'h~tn lor .atluh 'l'~ ottht wn~ d'''-lKm

;.ho,I4.11K' 1.1llll'11.'1.l fo. ~auk._ rt ftr~l(~
1'-1~
IIUII 'kt'\\'\ -
h~~:~muttnn \l\ t\-l"'IJ~ \2~
J_
~t.l
-4
ft(-11 \ltt\'h-1\.l~ ', ..
'"'
\ '"''~
HI U2
\lft"'"t:-p.l.ltn 11\-lln
Othf.r )1\t> dt\lottn' hlkwo
2. LegoMutton
..
3 Petal Sleeve
..... ....
...
Agu<o3Hoi!Sieeve
Tt<K't' lht bac:l ~1{'('\"(' to lht' grt~lnJine; intludt
llntJ II ami 2).
Marl. fo tl'ltry.
rll' 11-H' front )lt.ot\(' Oil 101) o f lh(' b;,cl; ~l("('\'t
lnd lf.IICt (\If\'(' oflht' ))((\'C (gta)' auo1 sep4HiUCS
front frnmiMtl..
\l~''t').
~ll,(tr'IJ!HJ: MarL ''N"\'C lrn~th\ for t)UiCk
n.J('Ience.
Jog- ,. ;
4. Bell Sleeve
+_!._L.!.-1 """'
I
I
'I
.....
709
COI..t.AAs, SlEEVES. AI~ SII'IRlS
SLEEVE DESIGN VARIATIONS

. -,. dt~n
' .u~ illu~lr,.IN 1. \\ llh J~,l,;ll
,.
Ilk 111"' 1(1111 'I~'
f'' '""'lllt"d ,n a 1h ough1 J)fe'lt.lltm
Ruffled Sleeve-Oesogn 2
1hco rultk\1 '''''H h \llhht,llllth~ .UIYihok. nc,.~h
tu nut(h lull\ tf'nnin, hilh~ot~' '"""'~'(' tlk '"'"'
llnl ~._be."'~' .urnl~..._, ltolfn notdl to fWl\h nd
.adit '"n tirnf" dt\ tnt.IWt('nl:tn llM' ~~: un br
'
\lltcl"" (\l'lthC' .umhnk 1114cl~. 114t'lirN
FigUre I
1..-J tht p&J'U, nu"''''~ <"\ ntn . .lnd ~'".a l!nr
UJ' I 111. ll'l<llot"' k\\ ttun tfw Uf' hcllthl
t)n tlw lot\1, nM'.l\1,11(' nut ft,lfn lht (ftltU to tht
.lnliiJUnt c..
llfll\1\ J1
tulhM1o\ ..k-'"t"d
Ol.f\~
)ll'k I(' lht ft'l.atl\ 11ft t'.kh
Soucer S!eeve-oes;gn 3
Tht ~"'t fl,lh du"t"ah M horn the Jtmhi'IW and
u.n bf '.a1.-d t.o. dfkcnt t'ff~
'*'2
1rac:~ t~ """~op.al'ld fot~.....- thr llh.btl.-1 n "'~
JtUICie to. plmun~; ttwo putnn
Cut frt._ ~<on Tbt ~T ~ bt \f'tf.f-.~
, .. ll'lll'ft.Un\.tN(IIcx\ to hokl , wi"C"
.......
\-.k ol
(ltfllt'l
'"
(-4lft'lt>kot(' tlw llolltt'fl1 ,.,, o1 IC':\1 hi
7 11
..,..,
.......
ru
ro,e,nd I hot UPJ" l.lflfl Jtt
Tr~u: I hi: t.~pp r &nut tht d.lnt.n \lf'l\o

Utll\ lhC'fUI"td hcmluw .I\ \hr~n
\t.u); thr \!.hh ~~~
FI(JurO,)
FlgU<e ~
C ut lllt' 1)illtcru from pap.:f,
(r,ICc Ilk' \ lo.'\'\ \' t ,II) 0 11
Unnl.
l1r.11w ,l \(Ju ;~rt llnl' ,,,
~l3)h, .111d piJcc on
fuld elf l._.lk'f
tl\--e aloot tN No.:tf" lnt equ.d to bkq,..

fvJl!'l("'.'\.
M..-r 11 JlU'h ~n Jt l'll<~h .and ~ lbr pl~l('m

doMn,.,.anJ. I IIXb ~ko'l!i ~ht ~ bDr
lt~"'t' th~~: ~T ('ul"f't 10 t oll("h .ir.-n Jr-, . . tbt
llf'\\ thai wUI mi4 0\\'fWh\:lm t ht" l'lrlncm ltl ~hktl

II 1\ .1111.11\hcd I ht dCt:\\' h I C't \ltl:\ \ tu \
lhn doo.:~ thr 1\.t\K ~~ '"

F~el
\h1.1~
,.,.,Jth (r.,'f
Baby Puff Steeve-Oesgn 4

1h~ b.ltw 1)ull h , 1-.o;. ,,.l ly dr.tlll.'d hlf cnntrc,llnJ full
Cop Sleeve-Oesogn l
TJw \ In'\\' Cilf flU (irl'lol. f
1orlo1
u~A~Tl tl'nt"'t:r~ "'-' ...en~ ~ thif ro-m.n

ot the \Itt\~ ,.,hoM P'N.
1.. .
It ltll ul Iht" lt..ll'~< I tbfc.l t n
hi'' hlh I'"
tht ...-un~ ....apillot ''iJ

hcmll)( '"the' '!.k'"'T. ~ ~..u..tt\!.
R('l'l\ol"''t' .J\~--e ,1nd .:2:'""'
(.(IM1pl.:l( II'K j\*Utm
Ov\'riJJ ,l.t\ h line; \t'(:UU' and tr,.ce tlw S.I<'('W.

fllttttl lapl>l,d .uc.1.
( ut .uul 11im ' ' l1c I\' ~ how 11.

117
,, ,,.
t..c. ~~
~~
SKIRTS
l.loe1ed Sl<itls
lt'r 'll..ln hrnm~"'~' l'll'tt wnun.t~.t"," .ano,.l N~r

lht '~"'IJ:."' wt ( ll.aJ.,'' I\ \l.m' h-.:'"'~"" t to._,
"'~' 1'l' tk'llt\lll\llhll\11 tl;htk '"""''f\l:l "'''' l\and\
jtti\\"Uilh ha\('\-1.1\UI llll.(tlt'\1 \'111'\(-t .._r\....\llW 1\k\.
)('(1k1n "' '"'"'1'"- t~h .th'titW tk.Nnd '-
I'J"-" '"\~.and ':'f,n ,.,, ~~~~.u~ I
~rW .tnJ
''~lf"tl \("C' l turt 1 \
"'"'\'*
<of"""''''
Clr'tn> \ltfl ''-''\'"'"

l~llo.llt.\
r--(\"2"1...!~,
( .~~ .md JJ.~~rt l.tl cln.k-\ J\l(n !4\.-:0.0
~
..
(.oft'd ' "'' "
J\a(("\ !-4~ l('t()
f'lf'OIIIf'd lo.h t loJ,,:C' .~~
\. lull ('lrck' Llrt
r.-~ .!4n-~l
,!...----;lrc
2. Coscodes/Poll!OI C11cles
'9,J'e2
11n"" ~ ~~t'C' I nt" Dd 'l'ftad thf il.ah,,l hilt"

to hi th<t ~,,. I ttt 1 h..e ktt~n \ a oatkl indt
Q;tft tht If k oUI1>M\ I'W\ th~ f1-111CTn
fogure 3
3 GoreS<.rt
\ \M -..:Jrn ,lJI,m ,uH.-t\
lr.tt' tv.o Ull)it'' of lh tlf.'t' e :and trim the t"'\l f\'t'

clt tth' fro111 I"C"o ,., Noh~ the lorJii(Hl\ o f th\' let
tt'r ~ami tht~h 'l.lth,mhi&) to the ,,totted l)llh' nl
(fljllUf\' 1).
( '()llll 'k'l~ thl' 1._111l'rn .utd h~~~ fit . Stht h t\ - 8

hlj:I\'IIWI
1/2 IO 3(-'
-+d
Q'ltoO t!jo liiUI
I()Ogt'oll f!l
~
-
7 14
ChOP'~' 33
Do- '0'> I
Flared Skrrt
Dos.ign Analysis Do.slgns 1 ond 2

1)MJ8 n 1 1s .- fl;m.,J ;.,'1nrd ,._ill lk'-i.'ln ! '' '""''''
o_,rl'-1 ,l.ul tl!b' t>MI,c:n I ln11 '~ llhHUI ~ ,,nut
w-'mt. I)M;IJ:n ' n .t
"-''t hand
~.tlht('ll
'
()rol.qo J
Go1l'lororl
oo~o~on Anotyalt Oo~n3

\\o~IU lo.t~ntl~ 11~..tltt
lll"''ol,tm ~ft' .lJ'flfClf)tl.th' lnl U"'\ 7 IC 14
h1;1.11n I .lOIJ.! 1llt.1~f.lh tht ,._,.t\1 d..tll\ ck,.,.'\f
tr.a.n,.h:rnrv: ''""' ,., tht ht"rnhtH'
"'nor ~th -''
!b
IIJ'Irt"f l100'\tn.kl...>f1
tl~ \)lf1
"<1\\ll!t~o<
h ''111-+IAI t!M ~llht .tttol h '" folu"'l..- 1
$1(kl0toll
f "j' ..
11o4 tho \tttttu~ "" lh t..,;.M. 1-.!ltn Ml<l c\ot
f\
11'0"''
n.J
till \lr.ttllll\lo,. tiM
Ill fl11,1111 U!\1\l\11- liM tto '!til \IUJIII ft,,.Utl" ,)lfl

llllil>lt tho 1-..111 Ill I\ t1Ufllj01tllll<l 11..- ltllt""' oot
k~ I I .. 1fl(~ ~ IO tiiC' '"'It wm luf .lfl

'-lult \Jit-'l!ok'flt
C(llllpk:h; pilh:m~ tur J ,,..,, 111 ndH"J -'' ..t
~11 .,.,,h n'fltn ltont JndUniC'f b.kL "".)tn\ m
,~_," N\JiC ~rl' ( ut on f,-*.J
-.JnU Nf'llJ
slr 1wl1h $1ylv<o<J
wor..1 ll<lnr.l
,._in ""h '"Ute'-'
Flgu'15 1 0"'0 2
foe
Aored SIUr1 Oroft-Detlgn 1
rJM~ -.. ,
ro,. '1
4lfll<okl"'l""'plfl'1 llkii'~M'IIIIha
"M' ,.
tht ~ 11 ' """"'"-'""'\JIM tw.di
" ' .... --- t
\rt'
rw.t \Ill\
.,.,~ 59~ ..
"0t' (
(I
'\
-.-
~ -JI' 3J
116
Dresses
and Jumpers
~ s.-11 ~"W:)Joi-J o ~,
Vot:ec ~ t)rct:
~
W.Co:t>
.............
h-lrt t:aat
.,..I'JIC"
Pial :.bt J'I"Vm. ~ tbc ~ ~

ttz~t . , bcf;!U ot Or moOd ., ~ (lddc 'Slan em
bt am Itt'.. On;.m1
.
t
I
Pore....~
1"
Dl::r"t TO t.o'! to~
72
(_~ ....... Ia.

f._~~
A"' J :->
Ji!,~-v.
.... _ .
IC ' - - !Q'~
122
'22
,..,
>a.
... ~ Olaf'!'
n!
:?.
~U'!TN
reno~~
ne
F9JO)
:..__ _ _ ___;- LW9"'
ut tW.h I nn. pl.l<~ ttw \lott on fold of tht

p.~1. ~nd \f)rdd ffH htmhnt )~tq). ,\dd lO dw
1Sdt W.1m n UIU\It.Jttd
f
Rtprat , ... tht hal;. ~~r..~n

Compkt..- Hw fQUC"rm f()(
o1 t~t fit.
_,
m
THESHIFT FOUNDATION- 3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14

lht oJIUI ilt<llt '"' lt.l.,._,, tlfllh 11.1'1' lt~>~.llu p,llh rfl\ llw \hill 1(141UliAII'n I\ lhl' bJ\t' tm tk"l~f" \U(h ,,s Uw
Jm!lu ,, f'rnpirr. o~nclttlf'W' k'rt~t:lh dr'''""' Ill "hie h ~.,thrtl'd ur JIINit'll \l..lll\ illl' dll.'kh~.
Shift Drof1
Fo..r_. I'}
1r.11....- '''"''' ""' tu..L f\IUtn'l\ .11nd II nlAtl.ifiK"
uKtu..tmc J..rh
I \.1.:-0ll
lu'k." ,., I~ dl~f\.J kn.C:th
o~od ~n ,.,,,.., .rn4 uj'l tutht' ;t~mtlok'
.,,,.,, "'ldr ~m from
to J'Uint ;\, ~nd <'On

1~ It~ tht ..rmhok, ~ lltullt.llt'd Hk-nd .111 .X.
'""''('f ,,,...,,
I~'
lut tiM' ftcmt '1-hlftltotn papn.

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51<3eve Draft for Jackel and Cool
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floi"JUI01 I ,'
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lot. t ltld'"t! Pollll;'f "'""
tkr lht lt.llll Jl.tlh Ul
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fq Jfft 6 tkv.)" Color

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tl(ld~ d.lrt~~ path -m, >hill, c11 fKl.t t J);'llf('rn I tK' d.mlt'tt I'JitUII It ott'd feu It~ Ulmtr.ahon.
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1bf' unll~ ckfoth """ ht untd .n f<lll lhf' 'ihlpC' ;It tilt \f'\1 oltht 11-1. kns:th
NAVY PEA COAT

The ~IJ:n h "'l'l"f'f'Mitt' fur tilt l ,., f.X .and ,- w
1 4.1'10'\, and 1tl1h 1 ht' l'lt u .., hi,.Wd n tht c-<M.t
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1l'k H"'\l c.an be: Unt<l etr t.Mnl, C'tf tht- t'\h,Y' c-111 hor M tt~:Jd.t-d .tnd 'IItched
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Tht pt".11 (n.tl 1\ tht ,,.,hl ..l'f'll (....,\ dni~ ftJJ th.r
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luw p.\r.alltl "'"h ttk unttf fn>nt
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l.kttnd o:~ltnt J _.inch
bbtl B
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putl.ll ' 1111 1). St't ll)t\m I o n JUitt' Nb
f.g ;r7 Polt iOI Color ROI

f!Q.J~e 6
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Pants and
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11m, il\ tllu\tr<41t1J Jm the lining patltrn.
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INTRODUCTION TO PANTS
r~gure 2
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JEAN FO UNDATIO N
nw k.u hl'lnt~l..t)llf1 Ul\ '" tht t~)r!lulu uf th ft1tu11
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J)Midr ""htth t.ik ttw Hy tl h.- ~ ll!Vht tittf lt-nlJ IC' ''' kh \lfh nloJII I h<' fly ( .m ht ~Aitnd~d h o rn the
,._n, "' ""P4''r ny ... n t~~: ',,~, htd m fh.,. ''''"' t lito 'h ld h t~ ll~ lhf w'dth ''' '"~ Oy o~u.l I lnc:h lons.:.c.
,,..,,. 1~ ...-~ n1 1" lt>Jo:fk'IO'I lor t.l1' h rr1 ttll' lly, wl\t bAHd v.ilh I'"'Jl"i Clllh JUJW' ?~~. \AA, t11 tl c.J S97),
nd jotOitl P'"-t1 .,,,,., ",.. ,..,. Ill!
' l
..
"'
'
t\4
---l
fq"lf17a b
"'1\l h;mol\ "'" u.,..l whHI thr ~rtn.'nl hf'dolrrt <nBo
tr.,lt thr ...r.tiJnt', wtM"n .t ...nnrnt lrh ttM-Iun
I\ ck'\tlupnJ uhfoul d.ltl'l. ""r ~ 7S..t
Po<'oO west Bond ond Eloshc

f'9J~~ 0 ~
llW tU.~rK ., ('bd 1r1 tht h.kl. "tth r-anl "',.,"_
Nnd 1n u. rron' tlwf'U1hl un J..,,tn~J tttM' \Mk
'::W'III of ~~ ,:.umrtll ,,., 'Wftl tn ,umJ~I\t ltK'
Nd. """!lint k , ...wd 1. J 4 lnt,:bn ,U .I (".1\ltiS: frO(
lh1th tl.htK 1 ht from "';abt Nnd panem ~~suro

Uf1thlf c-JI hunt "-.IJ\1 In~ USC' .1110\\,JM~ f""'aJst
IJ.Irt
h 'lntltt'dt.
n.t
t-l.a\tk .and wa1St band
lift'
PANT VARIATIONS
tc14nN thr \kJto ~"m' \dd to 1~ >J<k' it!m fot a
m<rt uw.al rn
Pleated Trouser
~ p&qt.-d ttou-n un .tWJ '- dr... 1~ h '"' w
tbcl. plnt ''"' c1Mt1lt TN fW'll **n ni<A ""="
to:.1,.\. nd "'tit H ,.,,hJ<I.-.and r: 1k \~ ort hu CJnl
plr.tt c.an hr untC'd "" t{II'C'.I4inl ft)(lft th.m oo.
rlacc on ttw dr 1f1 ll'IC p.nt an ~ bf cufff'll!
figu'e -
........
,--------,
o...gn An01yloO
1bt ~~ I' pi Hf'd klof Jll'\h f'&ktmtftt 0011' plot k
.......11.1~. bl.lt ll'\ plad:nt nJC ' 'I' \lash hM'\ C"..C.f't
f'WU un bt Nk-d 1) UM' J'lftl ChJ11 lbt fh frt.oot
(.I.R tJI' r'atn1 CIC'I f' t.r *k- C.C I~ h....nt ptn.t. Tbt
4J it.!
...
~r
bk.,p.ntbbl\k
" "'
1}~
G<unge Po'\"
Thr
uou~
:llin4Woa b rr.:nJ md mc:..llnnl lo
,c-toWt
't""'~ .. ~!" ~ pan nw r.u"" p.m N, ck-c1'
wd wtdt It.
ttut an bt aC .. n, krl(th
..
lf)l-
c...rr..rt your own dn.l,cft on tht! four)d.,uJon

f~
lht ilhnrauon lnd rnntunmrnc to
._,
Tr.ln' tht ~ ~ .aod Mi. ~ pa:-

S,L,oh.a:~ol:htf'M't..S~ll !ID
; jfl(bt\ tot rw~ t:<:W
f.(,. tht ft\t:ont. .add 1 " 10 I Ukb tct :-.r tlQDI
ttw ~~h OC !"K !h ~ !'It A ~ I ~11
Ho2
't
J
(
'
&f!i'
...
Ctoch
i ,...
a
o3
.J
I
I
i'tfl ~n the'
W't (h~o:f
h j
~-1
Pl9a!ed IIOU>el!l<oft
~~ 2
dndop UK pi.QI
Z.f"PC
~ ~~!'!.( ~a~o~::uo.-tiO*L
=-
Waot Bond 0poons
r"~ :rw t\J'C' . "'"..: ~ ~ "'*td., the....,
l.lt'" " flrl~ '""'-'- ~
Westen Jeo"
o..gn._.,...
fh< n4at\J fCt<an l"n' h N.~on the' tNntoun..t..

'"-"'" 11w~b~Jt fo\.Jf)d .. , , .. k-.~-,
.an.J 10 t .. 1"l'llf fT\ IM11" Nt ('rtuank nnC" ''!lin ..Ilk
'Thor meL~ .......-n ~par: CW1 "'t dtc:ttlbptd

1, h t.arorwd W:nr " ~ ~ a tu ~ Jll'lt..
ltc:ltC'lllm 1bt ~lit c:t ........ ~ ~
tftck!".
:Jesow- ...,.,.,.,..
"""r
- ~ ;.5.-v,.
Dit ,. fwt NC~t . , ~ ca.lt IIIII ,., dl..._~ .an.i

Itt-::- ~ ... .a.IJnJ ewctb ttlc'
. . . . . . JC't"
.._irrk'CJI~~
.m!t. ... trotrcl, tpk" .. l!wPI='='
--
auwna~~
_......s
mr ~ .: " mcbn 1
1-mcta
a<"C
-iDcll Na-
Clot """'
--=,..
~-
ftlUI
10
c!x
111
C.wt l : b.1l eiM&k eqtul
liD.."t.
~ dllraot..1:.
n.......u~ttd ll'tCi
f_
cw -.:11 b
m~
mta
~for
"""
:DIT ... ~ ...... ~
.:~pti:r'j~
~ ~ tt.-lrdex
Ellutii'C
....s tor """' ' ...., om..""llln;
.. ,:t.-1~
'910
~-
... ~
'
lbr ~ b .. tt'A eu:
..... c..
,}
.
no.~T
...,
0..<"
:::
g
+
'
~
~
.....
\..,....
'
flpuros 3o b. c Front
~osl2
, Thk."t fMill ,md t~.XL jt.an P."h ' ""
l't{lt 1two paut-rn\. ,a, illuUr.ll t'\1
1 .,.,
....(/
.. .
'1{4
l.t . ~
.. .
--'
f'IIIH'I'-'1~'1 undtr tht.'I)O("Lt.l (,('("(ion of lht" dr.:t(t
.unltr.-n tNX'l.tl b;ttl..lng :md (;K-ing.

lrlm thC' IX)!. l.c.t $h klin(' !rom 1lw p.lth'tn.
.
..----/
- 7
~--I
tkH1 1.attCtn I{N \.1'<'' I tO
and l:'lrh
'
J(A~
')
~3<:
lAC
'"0"-o1
BeiiBottom Ponls
n,... hdlhono'ltl JNI"' h t'Ni\t"d nn th'l' lt'ttn ~nda
'"""'
)
~
"
'
Figures do. b. c
fogures~.b
l'l.lrt J'ol~r urKkr 'olt pan c l thl: dr.ah .and u.;~
b-1..-L role
\\,11\l b.lnd h lllu~tratcd. Cut on lold or t--ut two

J)ll"(n. If b.1d. ('la)tfC' I.\ tt'qUih'd, add 1 ln('h to
:lilt.' ' b.,.. ~ro. tS<.'C
lr.act tcL pof..,.t from th.t p.&!h:m Ftgurr .fC
1).18<' 7S6, n,~o:urt) ,fb and c.)
lbtlllJJll r.gur\: ""

foQVfo +.:a
8~Cr JE.A"'
on
~~
f014 4
[D
,..,_,~
!.q
bt.
1:
WAIST BANO
...,,,.,
1_dd ONt W'iCh 101 CknhC: WOiU bond
ta;- ~ 1)0( ~
)
\
MNTS ANO AIMPSUIIS
'
41
t.:-c: ~nd 7
to 1-4, luc hor~
761
DeVgn Anatysb
lland ~non dlt.uftJ:ul)h Ihi' ~nt U\1~ ~ fbrtd
lots c:.an btu lolldt.a~dtsbed illnd un ,tan from an
polnl Jl~n~ t~ kdlnt. The ~'Ul<'d Ol~rhn~t hM
buttom JineS buuonholrs for control
~l:tmll'le lht C}-pt of W1.1$tlint- bnl su5ted IO
lht cksi~~;n. Xot ~ :'~S moet :"56
~ I
FIOred Shorts
Shori ShO<ts
nw ftllrt'd \h'-"fl\ dr.lll un be. ~~~"'' un tilt tuou\a llf
;.l.ltl.Jl.lnt 11Jt J.'\1~;11 t\ f(lf '"'"' ltc to X .urd tu 1--1
llw IU!i,h>t.ut ''"'"' \ht>rl '' lur \ llf'\ 1 1., 14 41"' 1\
IU'-'.'(1 ~n
De<lgn MolySI>-Dosign 2
twm M..lntplt'\ h 11lU1>tltt-.d tor If~ llatt'\1 ''"''''
b,a\.K flat<' .anJ ldoJnj t\ah: tcor ~r.JIIt"l fKtnfill(
'"ft'P- fbn h ~ 10 thr nuo;k t'\ln'f' c"' liM" kx
larM' tt' N~nu- 1~ fuJitk.,\.
~llhtr
I hi:,,._'- ot tf'"ll ll.l nt
Dooilln Anotviii-Dooilln 1
u,..
ftrf' 1(-fhnl" I\ pff,nt-d ..tMr\""t c:mtt h inti '

~
\1.'4111 Jitld 1\ UJ:hlttK'tJ '- lht ln\i lo t Uf\ ~ u f thr I0 \1 ~rn'
rn tu c: ~l'\o{l) ruund ,, ... utopr .,,
WolsHino Ol)llonl
lf) Ck~tdt the: 'H"'" cot .,.,.,,tllnc - w tf'd to rht dfo.
~.,. . \It'('
WOdllne Opllons
To didt tiV n-pt o1 ""hd not bw'\t wrttd to the dc1.1(n. ~ ~
r9'.s 1.1
ss m.s s,.
Basic Flared 9>011$

f9AII 2
Trxt the front .ltld t,... l. PJ-tlt otnd du" pilnt
"""h
\f~rl \bsh hnn INGI d,l.n PJ'ftU IO tkm n(

pant- \l.a\.h dow d.Jch..
Srcc-~ fcx Jbrt
lt"'t tht frlotU o~~JW tl. ~ttrtn\ .and tn;ul.

"'""""'" t ''' I 111
\btL ".U\h ltnt"\ <~nd dt.a tUf\t' f4 thr 1)'1'1 ....,._
( u1 \l.uh hrW'\.tndcnut..p 11-liiMh

lt(tiOkl p.IUtn". bloothnJt th.- ~t-Khnt ,u\lJ ttoot.tJ
f~fl
"'"~
.........
..
Tr--r th.- tnw"'"' 1/-l tnc:h

lm tht klhH t.-un. U.kt the- k'dlm ''-""'"
the'
.at cun~"' thf IJ.ltt lc'J'
t-=-tn 1 \ 1 nd ' ~
ltlfil" loKtna .,, .
"'tdt'o'
t tn
3/6 to t/2'
Knickers-Design 3
rhe Lrud.o p.ull h .a I"'"' tkm.ttl'-t .trn.l cJ~n '"'"
dr;dlhl hmn tht HbU\(r uf '''"'" JNIU lor '-IIC\ lru
0 '< ,.nd 7 In I -l, lbr I~\ 111 t.:lth
Silo~ With Added Flore
Ooslgn Anoly$11
f..gur~X 3 4
~la\h ~lltrn to \llln .u'ld thr~t;ljth d.lrt
P'Jtnl Sptt-ad !01 .&kd Oo~t<' t11 th dr.\uc"l
I h e l.tih:h:r tl.lnt h J:<'IWtlly IJitrllt,_llt.~U l'lt'ltoW tht

l.nt'\.'. l lw fullnc..,,. h Kthcttd ill If' ,,t,,uul.amll\ hut
11111td f;ll Iii ('HIUIOI
~ornount.
'*
Add Oar~ lftht

'loum;. t,{ dwo p.uctr);. f'IJIII
co onth,.lf tht '~ ot " fl
fi>Otn
....: ...'
.,
h) dt'('id~ tht: I)'JM: nf "lhl to;Ul\lll('\1 \UIIC'd Ill thl

tlt'\ls;.u, ~,. p;I!Cr' i~~ .md 7~b
F1Qvre1 t ?
lrokc- tiKImnt .unl b,nl.t~oanl
f'l11t Uw f\;1111, \1\llll.t tlhJ'-I'"IIo(lo!l .tnl.l

;:!\
do"''"
.1 ji;UI\k
fogurfJ 3
'"'-. thr l.tM'\' hi"IH
nH''-'"' rm-nt
rfu' an f \rtn
\lcWI ( i/4 In I llh h )l1t.t.r\'t'll1f' IIIC' l. '\h tn ba~

lito ~t~hf; ~Itt.. hAtldt.lll \,al\ 1111 Jftorrt11ldr
\lt:ll t11nh lh; .autllf I nl\h \ ll"'"
___ -
Wolsl Bond Opllons

fi(J.A"
\.,
'"'
' <>fll)ll\ 11
tht , ...lh 011
t .I tol r I
.' -:,.------:!,
_...,~
\
l
'
U 11\ tlt c~r ,1 dr.liHtting c..m ht u tC'd 10 h o ld th('

,~t.trtufnt m Uw w.tl\t M thm'' It It fathion:tbh: f tt1t
h1Jilulll' llh' \\,tltllillt' I h e d r.lfl .liiOW) fOr blou.~i ng
.tl<tt~):. t h tl~"~ ,.nd \ldt> \\'.li.SI M t h(' front iumpwit,
\ tun hiHotnln,~o: t.lll bt ;1d<k>tl for ~pcci.JI dc~ign cf
JUMPSUIT FOUNDATION
PANIS.M<IO JUMPSUITS
Jumpsull Draft
.u.- ~'"''"
\.t\u.lJ
fit
1r.ke tho!: h.l<\ tli'M.hc:e .
h,~o~,;(' thf'
hdUI hcM.Iltl.'"
l'l.l("t' thf' fn1411 j'-lnl on th~ th~ft. lt~ltiUn.J. ttn

lt!f fr,'W11lludk~ Ul u\lntc tht' ~'"'-'- nt jt-~n lnund.lllon. til(' lnMII Y>ill lr\tiLit> ~~ U'rHtl hrw f)(
to tho\\ th(' \f'f\.JIIIIt) of tht tumpsuit
lc M.IUd,IIIUII
Jlw bJ\.It tk\"t", $hirl SI~\E', or .anrother s.lt~~
thJI hh tlw .untlwk- t:.lll bt u}t'd with lht jumpsuit
hllmc.Utloo. lhl' ;umhokc-.ln be lowtred fOr ot more
FIQUfi~t 2
FigUre I
h'\U ,lncl tht jUnti)'Hiil lot n bc' dr.lft< O\'Crslzed. The

l'-llll k n,~tth ,,1n aho ht , .. ,r...ocJ )~..""~"'' <~l~~:n Ideas
l1.M,.1.' tht (\'JU

lm,... t.mf llw ttrlnhrw c\4 H~ot (\'I'll ""twn n
~~llhroux.h tht lnlkf. mu\t ht p.~rlJ~l"''h
tht tKll.l"("
ll'k
l>t.1w ,. U>fUIC'ttln~ hnt fwm tht' .lJMhollt to
un'"'
hl.~llk pf
liM:
l'l.lc:~ t.h~ p.utl ""ll'lthotdnftlOtNt tht ~pol(~()( tl'le

l\\; at dw: ~ n. tqu~lto tht- front ..ldt' mitt
lDCt: the p~m \0 tht y:unlu't'. htn h"ttf\dt(1.

" J"'rlld 10 thto: ttntn luw olrht bKk.
tk;a" lht \iOtbl"l(" and <~tn lint o1 ti'Ko b:k
(omplott.t tht ~utm b o~test i1t
bodkc tl\ IH ln._h 1
767
\hl(' r""nt
lr.K~t tht~" ~e.
Jumpsu.t With ll!ousong

f.o6M3 4
.\d;j 'Pitt btnotm ~ :rf tbt ft,:x,t ......
b.k '- fllltnn~
Ove<siZed ..lumpsuJ"
F~:lo
\dd
~ ~ft'll
the- ..houlda
cf lht
I runt .and bid. rultcn\1.,. UWI bao'd tbr armhok
To mc:ld1h th< \Icon~ fo'll fl::;:t.:J~ 5 .n.S ~

the> t-tr b\ rqu.ll ~1\.
"'""'
...,.,
..
... ..
'
... .. .....
'....
. .... ... ..
..
'
';
IT:.....
.._
..;
'
'9n
.,.
_..,.
...,
/.'1
...,.
'.
:~
l':ak ,. ,........,_,. ~
Oo!Ch
CIOICh
'
r.........._
(
--~
.....
.
\ ..
\ .;::.
'"'
'
PANlSNIO JUMPSUitS
Tonk-Top Jumpsuit
o...,o
Bit> Overall
ihr unLror jmJlpwlt I lu'< on tlw tHMJ\oCr jllflll,.

wil foundlltlon :u1d C'n bt drJfted t~r 0"" .1 t~ CX
~nd 7 to J.l
n.~ hlh (1\'t'tolll
..u.t
(wt
h hawd
111\
c-r
fo.-&s 1Q b.C.d
.. ...
..
from
........
..... ,_,.."...,_'"""Arcltow ........ ~ ...
..
..
..
r--:c~---+-~
&
-
....
..
...
.
,,."'
..
Soporol o
poi!OfM
.'tlo
HP
00I(h
Crotch
' ...
,,...
tllxurt'\ lc dl-
. ~C!'!'.
/'Cl.....:
j.
~nt
,..., ,..,.,..... ... ,. o1 h(fft- ...... <#1M ,.u.r_.
;and"'-" tumP!oUill~thrn)
Tr.Kt tlw ~klorr '''"''' ncl ltllin ou ttw

\houkkr tftJ:Utt IJI). Tt~ lht JI'Od.tt\
. ..
~front
Moc tht p.~ttnn. u\1~ tht IUu,u.-uon. ck

'IAJ:.n, .Jr~ Wf' o( thr modc-l.n ~~:ukk
.;;..;
..,.,.
I'll:I)' or tthl\
Design Analysis
.. .
ft)f
llH' bib 0\\111\1 ha) ,\ Ulllil\' j~\(1. Hll lht

(H'MU ()I tl'l(' bib, ~lor pM\tl'-, nd .l ,..,.,tth
pcx-ktc CMl tiM' w .. t
tht fWinl
tJsto tfM' IJiuSCRUM JIOIJ ~n Jl~ Jl j:Utlk fOf

plotnng tht paunn ~ I b tlluscmtd
Cut~ ~nt~ dw p~ntm.s. Compkt..: lht PJltf'l'n f Jl tnt hl
'
,,,.,_,~' '"1111'~
1'-'JtC' 7flo71. Thr <k\IJtn h \Uit,.bk lOt
'l1("\ l!o b \ Jllhl 7 tn '"
JonJc Dtotl
Fig<les I. 2
Tr~ ~ lrQnt ,lJld bKI. IU'IU\C'f JUm~uJt f\('('
J'l\'f' j(J ~ for tl'lf' lrDUM1' 1um~u dto~ftl_
Ihe
'
.-.
769
I)
c'lopter
Bodysuits,
Leotards, Maillots,
and Swimwear
IOO'fwrt
rc.c
b'
lb1,..... ()ol'l
toO't"M..Q WITH SUVU
8c)rJ,bl [)Jcfl
\.'f'";I'Q I'M . . . . .
fl;,t4l$W!IM r()l'
~;..<() (J"d ~'t Jm Po!-m~
..,.,
113
m
m
7/4
n4
714
"~
11~
llOfAPO WI'IH SllVE
770
111
M<1f'- >4 b "lM
ll ,..t>fltt
no
711
Wi'"'Of' l0TAP0
l ''.?'J Or "'
MAIUOI JOUNOAfiOfl
BODYSUIT
.111
176
f -CJI.I' I
I )/4
\h'IJ~"""Ib \m/fol
.-r
fl~l \UUI arc ft(lf11 - - - -
,:, SKit lt-nt;th - - 11 ~I Utp ~"" b,)(lr. - - -
,z-, crocch df1llh - - -
1 ;r,
\nm to l~wt ---~
'
n
-- .. T
Ton<-TOP Booysv t Oro':
rlfd,.....,
mwtl .,.,.,.. olW'nM.
'1
lalt~
n ~nl
'='
;;
Ubt1 nrn; ~ ,\ hiit wt I .! Jlldl. U1"tt I

~rhttd
' &-0..-lltU 11t
l!
'
1! tt'Kh "{u.llnl
t.....
lr~(C P.l1 m
/t"lf ,..,.,
tJr... lhl' t..rto "'"'
lt'\f ht WI JuJ4cl' %<'

it .:utdot hH<Ifl't'f1tt,. pilttuft torr ht pr~
(,IJC'bf'k1
,._!1.1<~
rf.r
~1\1-m fi'A
.. - ............. .,........
If mtUt')\ln tn11 ., uwd. tubUt I lon(h lrJm l'n&wrtntc:tll "'twn 'trm\. ~ j i\ mar\~
F91~ 1,2
lr~ the- lmnt pt'ltUn I~ ttwo Mil. \
~ w.aht 112 lt\c'h .md ~bti a
(til' \nt
' """"
~lllcltltl.t t,u/(1(
togt-th<:r, t"ll.:pt for a ~-inch

''rtrllnst 11 lh~ center h~ fc'1r entry to ttst flt.
''" tl,ntk .tiUIChm<nt in~trurtion, wt pa~~ 68S.
I wtht' 1)11tm frn all dt"'IRil\ ( ltl in l..nlt hav1ng
~ "="til
ont-balf uf a-c. tclb:Jrooo Iindt

A.--F frual Mmnok l*ftl ~ anc:h.
lMlt' kM:hrrl ~ ~
I~ 1l"l' Lnrt: lr.t'!l Uw4l dnC
ln<h
llfJ.,.,. th 1-~ck WJm ""''h ~ 'll,lht lmunl

(Ur'\t
OtJW tht .armhl'lt.t <U~t p.ar3lld to Uw

OfiJIUUI .Ufflill)l~
u1
mod
\lr,nurt from atm holt. lt{'\urd fOt u\C' In dr.lftin,f(

the \I~"'~ ---
re~nthmr wUh dr~1fl C'Ht P!:<' 772, HJ:'" <' I. ''~relntt

with llo-1 lmlr u 4:110m,
l
fqJtt ,
'
117 1
Notching Guido (Two Type

o1 Notching Used lo KnHs)
I '.,.,,,,,,.,.,l'tfl,of1,'~1tuh
l I ' ,.,., "" ,,1 .,,,.,.. '"'' fuotn rlu '(,un nl!o! '""ln. h .........,,cf '"' tl)l h hlth ,.,,,
~'"'
' In
! V1
""'
((
~MWIO
om'l1l(ll!rer
~bat! c(
Cut
!lrclu.Jf(d ""'" 8
\idt lrtnJtfh I'\ ~~r'C'd up ftnm 0. I llnc:h
~\t .atmho.to k-...1. .:.noJ \IQIUttd ttul I. 2
1)..1
.......
I-<;
mar"
(W\\" . . . . , ~1
wmt fftll'
OJ)
Oc.aw~-~
.\..( t>('lh'td of \I \tal\.

' A--I> .tm "" front f H1 ~' 112 tneh
\t.lfn\
"-me '\lltlc:h f.lclt'll
th Lyoc:ra "'ft'ld\ \fl. I
pe.n J. .a u:Kh <:...nec.t G .u L
ft<l llltt malt
~~~'11n
lhf tok~ '''~P tbr1'' t .Mtd tl'lf' nlltnt
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naw th~ m:<ldtnt " lllu,tro~trd

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OMfl)lr\b nf (.-J phn 1, ltn.:h

1Jn(' htrndtd fttrm t
ltor.m ~>.ch ~ rl'f Ct'fllt1 lin~

f)f~w 11-~Jnr from o~t:\lt to 1o,..... nd frtotn ~I"Mt
1*-ndtnVtlJ hlplmt br. CI(JI!tb (If"' htom J,
bltTidonJ! nil lflW.atn
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me~wrt'm~nh
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8-(; OMh.Jtf 1)/ Jl..f ~lit~
~H om ho~:U oli-O \t.. rlr..
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Dr the 11rmholr .lind nnl.hnt
Tht' .ltm l~l(' 11'1 tht diHik-\\ l'.lthn'l ~' lni'Jdlk'd lata
C~lef> .. "\ J
lyCIO Knrt Sleeve
BODVSUIT WITH SLEEVES
Dr-. .. apl:-..c
I'
ol A4
tltfltiUIInt
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~ I
BocM.
lr-.1((" ftl)ftl pi:lttm tbtflun bntt).
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714
CNJPIOf 37
TIGHTS WITH TOP

TANK-TOP LEOTARD
lOdt."\\'.,, ll,l:hl..,. Itit' l'flll\ \IIII 1'-1111 1\ Uotn'(llooiiii.A''

t .ah.Uin~: t.aiiU'I' t'U111J~h 101 \tuJ)'I).Ic I. ftc tfll 'II( It h1 I 1,1:
..od IOJ d.niK \.J\Ing lolf'I''0\111\IIht\ I l fl ilwht''
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lu c (C>Inthtl ollld lllolr, intlllfl UHI\~flll nt fl .,c ll!loo.!fn.
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tllldk"d 0\"('f~jl t O S'UfC" ffH.IIrllil.h Wit f"'llt'fn\ c.,111

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I ht lc'(JI.lnl h lliW'I I tofl tlt tt..ll k\ 1... 11, 111 1h1

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the nnhill .lhol hot Jt\lll,ll\
lt~~>~td tho~lt \ tth'""''~' ,w
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ho~u
lxN.l) ~ull front fMIIcm.
l'k>t 't~ltllnl.", U\lrl$ lllu~ltJtton. de,fgn, d7e, and
fltJOifJ 1 f root LOOtotd

ltiM.t' IlUll I dJrtlt\\ I'IHI rn lt.tl\4 ...1ht 1/l lrkh
.Inti l.thtl A II
hdght nl model "' 01 g:uflle.
Tights
fogu<e 2
ltJ(l' IIW lxNI)"'\UII ll..11h:ru ,.md follCJW llhl \ 113
tlun In the fin l ug, 11(1\l to ,.,._,,., Crolch cxtl'ndon
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c.,
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11111 .,
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777
LEOTARD WITH SLEEVE

MAILLOT FOUNDATION
11 m tlll5l.tn h uK'd. \Ubtt:K"I I Inch frf'rn rnN~llll'

mt"JU '\ htr,~ omtrhl. l ' llS mMt.~
I llot' rn1llklt w. irnmll h hJ\Cd un thr k'tltrd JNIIU rn

wllh tl<l\l~ ;umhC'Ik' 1\('(' I);IU 17t.J 'K".am IIO'o'\,nt~..n
of iiR tn(h .I f <' lndudN In tht d~ah 1ht ma\lmum
~Uc:ICh ~ .lHIIUfW l h t' fll\llt' lt..; 11\11\104 JI)Unda.
tkn l'llltln h thor t..~ I<"' tht ~dot'tnmt "' tht
bJ ~1nl.u\\t h '"'~
figtrt!o I 2
Tr.J frOnlJl.llll'rn R.thor lhC' ~.)1\1 1/2 hl\h .tnc.l
blbr-1 .o\-11
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~\lJ rtrd hom 8
l)..f
Ml\&otlcd Ufl frCJm ll. l1!

tnch pa..t ~nnholt k\TI. nd ~~MJ tkll
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l)f.a~ ~~ ~ \l'.wl "''h ").!lt::ht m~.ud
Mollot O.oft
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I \.lmd tht <.~nln lin~ U hQ.hon l"l('tl.IIDt" t1

ck1;utd l\cot ~Jt'('\ M~ lex \tltch&ns: #ld
tW<U< J:\lidJI'K~.l
IMloloti\tiHl(: I\ tn.~rlni U.\JnJ tht ~\ mld .l r.nh
( u 1nd tnt lit
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FOoHJ 1.2
lr~~ U~ lrofll arM,I b.k:l. kot~rd
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METRIC CONVERSION TABLE
1 , 11 ~ nd t-:1 t.IIA lrr

~"J lllh l.t tt.-: t JC fV
,.,
,,,, ~ ,, t~~ ~- r.r
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Vt IPir (..(,! . ,W'"

..... ,......
(A' I H t.c.AIIf Y,II'JI4 f"'-J'I
,~'
Appendix
Ill
Ill
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II I
I ' ;
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tfll
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~~I RAC 1101\'\
DECIMAL CONVERSION CHART
I XA\11'L l
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782
~1\
FORM MEASUREMENT
CHART
Circumference Measurements
114nl
..1
\\ .!l\1
I. .\b..t.nK"fl
Hire
Jlhl\ 2" t'oi\C'
' I''"' I
l".l"("
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1-4 \crt"\ \lk...,.kkr
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t;
8u~ IUl
l b lbcLrc
19 \U h l ;uc
zo o.,, p l,I(Cffknt
2l
H
N
Uppe< Torso (SodiCe)

c;. f ('1'llt1 kn,((h
Lower To rso (Skirt/Pont)
r _... B_
\hditlll('n
iH('.
1111' .u,
<tc)lfh tkpth
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l( \kk' hiJI dtfMh.
li. \\",me In .ml.k-:

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--
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( 8 n }. to fluor
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2~
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\.t .........; -
Z' LZ t1fh ltu l lHJ
;\l) t_IC)IIl\'11 111("
"
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(."htl '.ari.AIOft\:
Personal AJ<:rr
Measuremenrs
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'Meosunng lhe Arm
\ll\1\ tJun\ t "' lh u lf bo ,,ht , ,,,.11 llw-
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1o
~kntr;th
l tli~tln,hlty
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I
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22
Speclollnformotton
'
Upper TOI$0 (BodiCe)
Aim Measurements (for Sleeve Dort)
.. '"
w.-t..,
httdn
tl<l\l
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ft., t
l >\l'lt"'"'nnt
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llu~l
Circumference Moosuromon1s
21.
St ~mbtd \lft'\~ m~~'uh nkn l\ .let' KJ' t ll flfl J),ljt\ Sti
Personol Frgure Voriohoos
PERSONAL M EASUREMENT
CHART
CHILDREN'S MEASUREMENT RECORDING CHART3 TO 6X AND 7 TO 14

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Pattern Making For Fashion Design Fifth Edition

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,I

VIncent James Maruzzi

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19 StropJoss foundation ond lnlerconslructlon

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25 Knoc~.on Copyjng ReodyMode Designs

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Answers to Self-Evaluation Tests

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