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Flying geese blocks, combined with the unique vintage motifs in the Eclectic Elements fabric collection, are what give this
beautiful quilt its name. The variety involved is a quilter's dream. You can isolate and piece together these interesting little bits
into a wonderful collage. All the great shapes are also an inspirational bonanza for the final quilting. Sew4Home seamstress
team member, Michele Mishler really went to town on our sample, outlining the clock faces and butterflies, and doing some
great free-motion stippling in the solid areas. This is not a beginners quilt. If you have little or no quilting experience, you might
want to first browse through our Project Index and start with some easier options. You could also review our five-part series on
quilting basics that begins here with Tools, Notions and Other Stuff You Need to Start.
But if you're already into quilting, this is a design you're going to want to put on your list along with the Eclectic Elements fabric.
We found a good selection of this delightful collection at Fabric.com, Fabric Depot and Hawthorne Threads.
There are a number of details that elevate this project to an intermediate skill level. As mentioned above, the design is based
on a traditional block called "Flying Geese." This block requires very accurate cutting and precise " seams to avoid cutting off
the points when sewn into the final arrangement. The flying geese units create complex corners where multiple seams come
together. The finished size of the quilt requires a seamed backing, and finally, the quilting is done sampler style, using a variety
of techniques for each fabric within the quilt top.
The fabrics we used are from the original Eclectic Elements collection of 23 designs, all of which are still being produced. This
past spring, Tim Holtz and Coats debuted an additional 13 designs in Phase Two of Eclectic Elements .
To get the look of our quilt, you need to use the same or similar fabrics to what we selected. Throughout the
instructions, we will refer to the fabric by name. Below is a key to the fabrics.
We used the following NINE fabrics from the original Eclectic Elements Collection by Tim Holtz for Coats. Use our exact cuts
or experiment with your own selections.
Seam ripper
Straight pins
For quilt basting: large safety pins, basting spray or needle and thread; we used needle and thread
Getting Started
NOTE: For all the pieces, both the main cuts and all sub-cuts, take the time to fussy cut your fabric to center the motifs. If you
are new to fussy cutting, check out our tutorial .
Remember, check the swatch guide above to identify each of the fabrics within the Eclectic Elements collection.
1. From the Measurements in Taupe, cut ONE 9" x 9" square.
2. From the Subway Signs in Neutral, cut ONE 5" x WOF (width of fabric) strip, then sub-cut this strip into:
TWO 5" x 14" blocks
FIVE 5" x 9" blocks
3. From the Timepieces in Taupe, cut ONE 9" x WOF strip, then sub-cut this strip into TWO 9" x 14" blocks.
4. From the Butterflight in Taupe, cut TWO 5" x WOF strips, then sub-cut these strips into:
TWO 5" x 14" blocks
TWO 5" x 9" blocks
5. From the Stamps in Neutral, cut ONE 9" x WOF strip, then sub-cut this strip into:
TWO 9" x 14" blocks
ONE 9" x 9" square
6. From the Travel Labels in Taupe, cut ONE 9" x 9" square.
7. From the Documentation in Taupe, cut FOUR 5" x WOF strips, then sub-cut these strips into SIXTEEN 5" x 9" blocks.
8. From the French Script in Taupe, cut FOUR 5" x WOF strips, then sub-cut these strips into:
SIX 2" x WOF strips for the binding
SIXTEEN 5" x 9" blocks
9. From the Ticking in Blue cut TWO 2" x WOF strips, then sub cut these into:
ONE 2" x 36" strip
ONE 2" x 9" strip
10. From the Winter White solid, cut EIGHT 5" x WOF strips, then sub-cut these strips into SIXTY-FOUR 5" x 5" squares.
11. The backing (the NuGray) and the batting will be cut during assembly.
2. With a fabric marking pen or pencil, draw a diagonal line across each of the 5" squares.
3. Place one 5" square on top of one 5" x 9" block, right sides together, carefully matching the top, bottom and side raw
edges of both layers. The diagonal line should be oriented from the upper left to the lower right. Pin in place.
6. When this seam is stitched, return to your cutting mat and trim away the corner " from the line of stitching.
7. Press the seam as sewn, then press the corner away from the block.
8. Place a second 5" square on top of the opposite end of the block, again carefully aligning the outside raw edges of both
layers. The diagonal line on this side should be oriented from the upper right to the lower left. The square will overlap the
previous seam at the center.
9. Sew along the marked diagonal line. Again, trim away the corner " from the line of stitching.
10. And as above, press the seam as sewn, then press the corner away from the block.
11. This completes the first flying geese block.
12. Follow these steps to create the additional 31 flying geese blocks - sixteen blocks in the French Script in Taupe and
sixteen blocks in the Documentation in Taupe.
13. The 32 finished flying geese blocks will be assembled into units as follows:
Two units of two flying geese
Four units of three flying geese
One unit of four flying geese
Two units of five flying geese
14. When assembling the blocks into units, notice the point on each unit. It should be " from the edge of the block. All the
geese should be flying in the same direction and all are sewn with a " seam, taking care not to sew into the point.
15. Place a flying geese unit right side up and flat on your work surface. Place a second flying geese unit right sides together
with the first. The point of the second unit should be facing the base of the first unit.
16. Sew the units together with a " seam. The line of stitching should go through the intersecting lines of stitching at the
point but not into the point itself.
17. The seam should be a needle's width toward the seam allowance.
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18. Press each seam as sewn, then press the seam toward the base of the first unit. From the wrong side, all seams will be
pressed in the same direction.
19. Continue adding flying geese units to make the NINE units listed above.
2. All seams are " seams with a stitch length of 1.80 mm. Our Janome studio machines have an excellent Quarter Inch
Seam foot, and most models have a similar presser foot. This specialty foot makes it much easier to keep the many "
seams precise and consistent.
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3. As stated above, assemble the large blocks, then join the blocks into the quilt top. Don't forget to add the final Ticking
strip along the bottom of the quilt. You will first need to stitch together the 36" strip and the 9" strip end to end, using
a " seam allowance to create the proper length for the finished Ticking strip.
4. Press each seam as it is sewn and then press the seam in the desired direction.
5. The direction in which the seams are pressed is VERY important when working with flying geese, because there will be
intersections where the points of the geese come together with the intersections of the blocks. If your pressing is not
precise, it can result in lumpy, mismatched intersections instead of crisp clean corners.
6. The diagram below has arrows showing the seam allowance direction for each of the seams. This pattern of pressing will
allow most of the intersections to "nest" into one another, which means the seams are pressed in opposite directions,
allowing you to "push" them together as you sew and create perfectly matched intersections.
7. The general rules for this method are: 1) press all seams away from the flying geese. There will be a few exceptions, but
this general rule will create the smoothest seams, 2) press all 90 intersections so the seams lie in opposite directions, 3)
for those few intersections where both seams lay in the same direction, carefully pin the intersection, making sure no
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7. When the basting is complete, use a ruler and rotary cutter to trim away the excess batting and backing so there is just an
even 1" extra all around the quilt.
8. We found a "kitty weight" was a good way to keep all your layers flat.
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Quilting
1. Our Time Flies Quilt is machine quilted in a sampler style. The majority of the quilting is done with a Walking foot and
straight line quilting, switching to free motion quilting in just the smaller, easier-to-manipulate areas.
2. There are many styles of Walking feet available and well as Ditch Quilting feet. We used the wonderful Janome Horizon
Memory Craft 8900 QCP for this project, which has the built-in AcuFeed Flex feeding system and a great open-toe
Walking foot that allows you to see exactly where you are going. It also has a Quilt Bar, which can be added to the
Walking foot to keep grid stitching even.
3. Set the stitch length to a longer 2.80 mm length and stitch in the ditch until ALL the seams are quilted.
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4. We used an intersecting diagonal line grid on the Travel Labels in Taupe block. First mark a center line diagonally in
both directions.
5. Add a quilt bar to the walking foot and adjust the position of the bar 1" from the needle drop. Stitch along the marked
center line, then continue adding parallel lines, using the quilt bar for spacing. Repeat for the opposite direction.
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7. The Measurements in Taupe block comes with its own built in grid, so no marking is necessary. Quilt this block following
the lines of the print.
9. The Subway Signs in Neutral blocks also have distinct parallel lines built in to the print. Quilt parallel lines following the
dominate lines in each strip.
10. Here's a close-up of one of the finished Subway Signs in Neutral blocks.
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11. The Stamps in Neutral blocks also have dominate lines, but they are staggered. Quilt the horizontal parallel lines first,
then quilt the vertical lines, jigging and jagging as necessary to match the printed divisions.
13. The blocks with the Timepieces in Taupe print are quilted by stitching circles around each of the clock faces. To minimize
breaks in stitching, start at one end of a row of clock faces, stitch around half of the first clock face, then switch to the
opposite side of the second clock face. Stitch half way around the second clock face, then switch to the opposite side of
the third clock face. Stitch around the entire fourth clock face until you complete the circle. Continue stitching the
remaining half of the third clock face, then the second clock face, then the first clock face, ending back at your starting
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15. We changed to a Free Motion Quilting foot and lowered the feed dogs of the machine to complete the final blocks.
16. Stipple quilting is used in all of the solid background triangles of the flying geese units. These are small areas, and you
can plan your stippling so it starts and stops at the corners, allowing you to move on to the next area without breaking the
line of stippling.
17. Continue until all the background triangles are quilted. Here's a close-up of one of the finished Flying Geese blocks.
18. The last areas to quilt are the Butterflight in Taupe blocks. We free-motioned quilted around each butterfly shape,
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following the outline, then added loops and swirls between the shapes.
19. Here's a close-up of one of the finished Butterflight in Taupe blocks.
Binding
1. Remove all the basting threads from the quilted areas, leaving the line of basting around the perimeter of the quilt. Place
the quilt on a flat work area. Slide the cutting mat under the edge. With a quilter's ruler and rotary cutter, trim the batting
and backing even with the edge of the quilt top.
2. Our sample quilt is finished with a " French binding.
3. Collect and assemble your 2" binding strips end to end.
4. Fold and press into finished binding and attach to the raw edge of the quilt.
5. Stitch in place with a " seam allowance...
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7. We folded our binding to the back and hand-stitched it in place - the most traditional finish.
NOTE: If you are new to binding, we have an excellent tutorial: Complete Step-By-Step For Binding Quilts & Throws .
Optional label
1. Quilts are treasured gifts, and are frequently passed from generation to generation. As an heirloom, it's nice to add a label
to your quilt. For our sample quilt, we used blocks of the leftover fabric to make a 9" pieced strip and incorporated an
embroidered label into the pieced strip.
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2. The strip was sewn between the two lengths of backing fabric and aligned to the seams of the quilt top using a stitch and
flip technique. If using this alternative, make each of your backing panels 4" narrower. Their length remains the same
(47").This pieced strip was added before quilting. Then, all excess batting and backing is trimmed to 1" of excess all
around when sandwiched, then trimmed flush prior to binding as described above.
3. The back view also shows our intricate quilting. The quilt is almost as pretty from the back as from the front!
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Contributors
Project Design: Alicia Thommas
Quilting Stitch Design: Michele Mishler
Sample Creation and Instructional Outline: Michele Mishler
Bed Linens
This project and patterns (if any) may be downloaded for personal use only. No electronic or printed reproduction permitted
without the prior written consent of Sew4Home LLC.
Copyright 2009-2015 Sew4Home LLC. All Rights Reserved.
Source URL: http://www.sew4home.com/projects/bed-linens/time-flies-quilt-eclectic-elements-tim-holtz
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