Innovative Preservative Solutions

Dr. Matthias Kunze

LANXESS Distribution GmbH
Barcelona, 16 April 2015

Innovative Preservative Solutions

Topics

Bild/Grafik
Gre:

Status of cosmetic preservation

Innovative paraben alternatives
1. paraben-free
2. preservative-free
3. renewable

Hhe = 13,06 cm
Breite = 10,89 cm

Efficacy tests
MIC data
challenge tests

Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Preservation Market Trends

Bild/Grafik
Gre:

paraben-free formulations
paraben-free claims
standard alternatives

Hhe = 13,06 cm
Breite = 10,89 cm

Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Launches of skin care formulations containing parabens

SOURCE: MINTEL

phase out of parabens continues after stalling in 2013

Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Launched skin care formulations claiming free from parabens

SOURCE: MINTEL

paraben-free claim still attractive

Status of Cosmetic Preservation

Summary
Parabens under pressure
phase-out of parabens continues
free from parabens claim increasingly popular
Standard paraben alternatives
formaldehyde donors not preferred (banned in Japan)
isothiazolinones heavily restricted
strong need for new alternatives

Innovative Preservative Solutions

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

Bild/Grafik
Gre:

1. paraben-free
2. preservative-free
3. renewable

Hhe = 13,06 cm
Breite = 10,89 cm

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

1. Paraben free: blend composition

Typical approach: phenoxyethanol + organic acids

organic acids cover weakness of phenoxyethanol vs. bacteria
organic acids require acidic environment
Solution: replacement of organic acids by triethylene glycol
good synergistic effect
suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10
brand name: Solbrol TP (INCI: Phenoxyethanol, Triethylene Glycol)

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

1. Paraben free: MIC data
1.2
Phenoxyethanol

Solbrol TP
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
P. aeruginosa

S. aureus

C. albicans

A. niger

Solbrol TP shows good performance against bacteria and fungi

Solbrol TP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

Innovative Paraben Alternatives

2. Preservative free: blend composition
Typical approach: caprylyl glycol
free from preservatives
weakness in particular against bacteria
difficult to handle due to high viscosity
Solution: combination with phenethyl alcohol
well balanced preservation effect
suitable also for alkaline formulations up to pH 10
brand name: Solbrol CP (INCI: Caprylyl Glycol, Phenethyl Alcohol)

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives

2. Preservative free: MIC data
1.4
Caprylyl Glycol

1.2

Solbrol CP

1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
0
P. aeruginosa

S. aureus

C. albicans

A. niger

Solbrol CP is very effective also against bacteria

Solbrol CP is suitable for both acidic and alkaline environments

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives

3. Renewable: blend composition

Natural extracts: e.g. Bark extract from the white willow tree in propanediol
free from preservatives
ECOCERT certified
suitable for alkaline formulations up to pH 8
brand name: Solbrol SP
INCI: Propanediol, Salix Alba (Willow) Bark Extract

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Innovative Paraben Alternatives

3. Renewable: MIC data
1
Propanediol
0.8

>6

>6

Solbrol SP

0.6
0.4
0.2
0
P. aeruginosa

S. aureus

A. niger

C. albicans

Solbrol SP is very effective against bacteria

Solbrol SP is suitable for both acidic and mild alkaline environments

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Innovative Preservative Solutions

Challenge Tests

Bild/Grafik
Gre:

shampoo
wet wipe formulation
benchmarked against
paraben blend Solbrol Mix P

Hhe = 13,06 cm
Breite = 10,89 cm

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Phenoxyethanol, Methyl-, Ethyl-,

Propyl-, Butyl- and Isobutylparabenn

according to Ph. Eur. 7 - 5.1.3

Efficacy of Antimicrobial
Preservation

Challenge Test Results

Shampoo Formulation
INGREDIENT
Deionised water

% (weight)
57.0

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate

9.0

Propylene Glycol

5.0

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

1.4

C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer

1.0

Sodium Hydroxide

0.5

pH = 6.7

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Challenge Test Results

Shampoo Formulation
criteria A

criteria B

fail

Solbrol type
Concentration (%)

none

paraben blend

paraben free

preservative free

renewable

Mix P

TP

CP

SP

0.2

0.4

0.4

0.8

Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
criteria A achieved by Solbrol TP and Solbrol CP at 0.4 %
Solbrol SP achieves criteria A at 0.8 %

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0.4

0.8

0.4

0.8

Challenge Test Results

Wet Wipes
INGREDIENT
Deionised Water

% (weight)
90.7

Glycerin

5.0

Propylene Glycol

2.0

Polysorbate 20

0.5

Cocamidopropyl Betaine

0.5

Aloe Barbadensis

0.2

Tocopheryl Acetate

0.1

30 g of solution on 10 g of cotton tissue

pH = 6.0

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Challenge Test Results

Wet Wipes
criteria A

criteria B

fail

Solbrol type
Concentration (%)

paraben blend

paraben free

preservative free

renewable

Mix P

TP

CP

SP

none

0.3

0.5

0.5

Pseudomonas aeruginosa
Staphylococcus aureus
Candida albicans
Aspergillus niger
Solbrol CP achieves criteria B at 0.5 %, criteria A at 1 %
Criteria B preservation achieved by Solbrol TP at 1 %
Solbrol SP achieves criteria B at 1 %

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1.0

0.5

1.0

0.5

1.0

Innovative Preservative Solutions

Summary
Solbrol TP
paraben-free blend
good alternative also for alkaline formulations (pH 10)

Solbrol CP
preservative-free blend
high and well-balanced efficacy (up to pH 10)

Solbrol SP
ECOCERT certified blend
especially active against bacteria, also works in mild
alkaline environments (pH 8)

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