Colour-Fade Defence: The Future of Sustainable Hair Styling

Anna Crovetto, Marketing Manager Europe

Contents
Hair Colour Protection
A unique Approach: Kerazyme Protect
Study Protocol
Efficacy Data
Summary
Bibliography

Hair Colour Protection

Hair is coloured for many reasons, to promote confidence, to stand out from the
crowd and to follow fashions
72% of people asked believed that hair colour improved their attractiveness,
confidence and sense of well being2
However, coloured hair is prone to fading
71% of people asked were unsatisfied with market products designed for colour
protection which are unable to perform as claimed2

Semi-Permanent Hair Dye

Hair Cuticle

Permanent Hair Dye

Hair Cuticle

Cortex

Cortex

Medulla

Medulla

Large Colour Molecule

Small Colour Molecule

Large Colour Molecule

Colour Precursor

Mass

Luxury

Prestige

A Unique Approach
Substantive to the hair

Resilient to wash-off

Light weight without product build up

Maintains the hairs integrity
Sustainable

Bamboo
A natural and sustainable source of silica
Macerated bamboo leaves are fermented with Lactobacillus
lactis which complexes with the bio-silicate to give a slightly
acidic solution containing bio-chelated silica
Improves slip, softness and aesthetic of the hair
Light weight without product build-up

Keratin
Hydrolyzed Keratin from wool*
Derived from a sustainable and natural source
Due to its molecular weight, hydrolyzed keratin does not
penetrate the hair, but plates out to form a tenacious film
This film translates as increased shine and improved feel
Provides conditioning benefits
*Vegan version also available

Trametes Versicolor
A type of polypore mushroom
Contains Laccase = Copper containing oxidative enzyme
Cross links free carboxylic acid groups in the hydrolyzed
keratin with the amine groups present in keratin hair fibres
This enzyme found in Trametes versicolor is also capable of
annealing disulphide bonds
Helps enhance hair strength

LACCASE
HEAT

LACCASE
HEAT

Study Protocol
Ex-vivo studies conducted on human hair tresses
Bleached blonde hair was dyed red (Redken)
Treated with a base shampoo and conditioner vs a base shampoo and
conditioner + 2% AC Kerazyme Protect
In order to simulate real life conditions the hair tresses were exposed to
everyday factors such as washing, UV irradiation and heat styling
Conducted using a blind protocol in order to limit bias.

Xenon-Arc Test
Tests the light stability of products, such as pigments, dyes and inks
Best available simulation of full-spectrum sunlight
Includes ultraviolet, visible and infrared light
Full spectrum xenon arc lamps can reproduce the damaging wavelengths of
light encountered either indoors or outdoors
Measured in Accelerated Fading Units (AFUs)

Ex-vivo Colour-Fastness of Dyed Hair

Hours of UV Exposure (AFU)
Control

0hrs

10hrs

Control

20hrs

30hrs

Control

Control

2.0% AC Kerazyme Protect

7 Wash Cycles

2.0% AC Kerazyme Protect

14 Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

14 Wash Cycles

Number of Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

7 Wash Cycles

Control

30hrs

2.0% AC Kerazyme Protect

14 Wash Cycles

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

14 Wash Cycles

Colour-Fade Comparison Chart to show the

influence of UV exposure and number of wash
cycles on hair colour-fastness. Controls of dyed
hair and dyed hair washed with a base shampoo
and conditioner were compared to that of dyed
hair washed and treated with a base shampoo
and conditioner plus 2% AC Kerazyme Protect

Hair which has been exposed to 30hrs AFU

and 14 wash cycles with the base shampoo
and conditioner has very low colour fastness
The blonde colour of the bleached hair can
easily be seen where the base products have
been used
Hair treated with 2% AC Kerazyme Protect
has maintained its red tones
The colour is closer to that of the original
control dye

L*a*b Test
In order to substantiate these visual results further quantitative data was
collected in the form of L*a*b-values
Three points per hair swatch were measured to give a mean value
This was then analysed using the L*a*b scale to determine the colour light
fastness of the hair samples
L* = lightness therefore, as the L*-value increases it can be shown that the
colour fastness decreases and the subsequent colour of the hair is faded

Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour

Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour
14 Wash Cycles / 0-30hrs UV

Ex-vivo Lightening of Hair Colour

60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Control

0hrs

30hrs

Hours of UV Exposure (AFU)

2.0% AC Kerazyme Protect

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

Lightening Of Colour (L*)

Lightening of Colour (L*)

7 Wash Cycles / 0 - 30hrs UV

80
70
60
50
40
30
20
10
0
Control

0hrs

30hrs

Hours of UV Exposure (AFU)

2.0% AC Kerazyme Protect

Base Shampoo & Conditioner

Lightening of hair colour expressed as (L* = Lightness) to show the influence of UV exposure and
number of wash cycles on hair colour-fastness. Dyed hair washed with a base shampoo and conditioner
were compared to that of dyed hair washed and treated with a base shampoo and conditioner plus 2%
AC Kerazyme Protect

Tenacity & Elasticity

A Flexabrasion method was used to evaluate the effect of AC Kerazyme
Protect on the integral structure and properties of the hair
Single fibre testing was performed via Favimat to assess the strength of the
hair in terms of tenacity and elasticity
25 hair strands from each tress were tested in order to achieve a mean result.
Tenacity gives the breaking strength of the hair where the lower strength
needed indicates a weaker and more damaged fibre
The Modulus of Elasticity gives the hairs resistance to being deformed

Ex-vivo Tenacity & Elasticity of the Hair

Ex-vivo Modulus of Hair Elasticity

Ex-vivo Hair Tenacity

1.9
1.85
1.8
1.75
1.7
1.65
1.6
1.55
1.5
1.45
Dyed Untreated

Dyed Untreated + Ceramic

Straightener

Dyed Treated with 2% AC

Kerazyme Protect +
Ceramic Straightener

Tenacity of the hair to show the influence of

washing and thermal styling

Modulus of Elasticity 0..10% (g/den)

Tenacity (g/den)

Thermal Damage

Thermal Damage

11
10.5
10
9.5
9
8.5
8
7.5
Dyed Untreated

Dyed Untreated + Ceramic

Straightener

Dyed Treated with 2% AC

Kerazyme Protect +
Ceramic Straightener

Elasticity of the hair to show the influence of

washing and thermal styling

Summary
A sustainable and natural material
Creates a cross-linked network with the hair to provide a protective seal
This helps to inhibit the migration of molecules in and out of the hair shaft
and so impede the process of dye loss
Ex-vivo studies support use of AC Kerzayme Protect in hair care products to
reduce colour fade
Simultaneously works to improve hair strength and condition

Technical Information
Product Code: 16824
INCI: Hydrolyzed Keratin & Bambusa Arundinacea
Leaf Extract & Trametes Versicolor Extract
INCI Status: Conforms
Suggested Use Levels: 1 10%
Suggested Applications: Hair Colour Protection,
Thermal Protection, Conditioning

Bibliography
1.

Cosmetic Design (2014) Anti-Aging Hair Care Forum CosmeticDesignUSA.com [online]

Available: https://vts.inxpo.com/Launch/Event.htm?ShowKey=22184 [13.11.2014]

2.

Mintel (2012) Category Insights: Hair Colourants Mintel Reports

3.

Blyumin, y., Konig, B. & Weber, D. (2014) Colour Protection for Hair Care Products,
Household and Personal Care Today, Monographic Supplement Series: Hair Care, Vol 9
(2), pp 4 7

4.

CTPA (2014) Hair colorants and haircare [online] Available:

http://www.thefactsabout.co.uk/hair-colorants-and-haircare/content/28 [07.01.2015]

5.

Tolchinsky, M. (2008) Keeping That Colour Soap, Perfumery & Cosmetics, Vol 81, No
4, pp 89-91

6.

Heck, T., Faccio, G., Richter, M. & Thony-Meyer, L. (2013) Enzyme-Catalyzed Protein
Crosslinking Applied Microbiology and Biotechnology 97:461-475 [online] Available:
http://link.springer.com/article/10.1007%2Fs00253-012-4569-z [13.11.2014]

7.

Fairchild, M. (2005) Colour Appearance Models, John Wiley & Sons Ltd., 3rd Edition

8.

Evans, T. A. (2015) Quantifying Hair Color Fading Cosmetics & Toiletries [online]
Available: http://www.cosmeticsandtoiletries.com/testing/efficacyclaims/QuantifyingHair-Color-Fading-290210041.html?sthash.HSAevCeU.mjjo [25.02.2015]

Thank you