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pro
spaghetti and
meatball from
randolfi's
p. 35
S T L' S
7 old - s chool
r ecipes ge t t he
s t ar t r e a t men t
TO P
November 2015
A M E R I C A' S B E ST
S O U R
P. 25
SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM
A L E
R E V I E W
TWISTED RANCH
P. 20
FREE, NOVEMBER 2015
November 2015
November 2015
November 2015
contents
NOVEMBER 2015
editors' picks
31
MAKE THIS
Warm garlic soup
by dee ryan
EAT THIS
Steak frites at The Libertine
last course
11
44
STUFF TO DO
by kristin schultz
13
46
HIT LIST
5 new restaurants to try this month
reviews
17
by michael renner
WHAT I DO
Steven Fitzpatrick Smith
of The Royale
by catherine klene
Features
32
20
Twisted Ranch
POWER LUNCH
by hilary hitchcock
42
23
NIGHTLIFE
Manchester Public House
by matt berkley
SHORT LIST
Fish and chips
by andrew barrett
J. McArthur's
beet salad
p. 17
COVER DETAILS
27
ELIXIR
Never say never
by kristin schultz
28
VEGETIZE IT
Tajine
by kellie hynes
November 2015
Go Pro
Classic spaghetti and
meatballs get reinvented
by Randolfi's chef-owner
Mike Randolph. Find this
and other old-school
recipes you need to know
how to make on p. 32.
PHOTO BY
GREG RANNELLS
PUBLISHER
ART DIRECTOR
MANAGING EDITOR
MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL
EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
FACT CHECKERS
PROOFREADERS
PRODUCTION DESIGNER
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS
CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
The sides especially
mashed potatoes!
Roasted turkey,
Wild Turkey and a
political debate
EVENTS COORDINATOR
LISTINGS MANAGER
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR
INTERNS
Allyson Mace
The leftovers
Meera Nagarajan
sandwich: turkey,
stuffing, cranberry
Heather Hughes
sauce and cream
Catherine Klene
cheese on a toasted
Catherine Klene
everything bagel.
Kristin Schultz
Garrett Faulkner, Rosanne Toroian
Rebecca Koenig, Kristin Schultz
Emily Lowery, Kristin Schultz
Michelle Volansky
Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth
Maxson, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Greg
Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky
Vidhya Nagarajan
Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt
Berkley, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes,
Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore,
Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene,
Rebecca Koenig, Anne Marie Lodholz,
Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie
Pearson, Spencer Pernikoff, Michael Renner,
Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Lauren Schumacker
Rebecca Ryan
Rebecca Ryan
Allyson Mace
Jill George, Angie Rosenberg
Jill George
Sophie Handler, Julia Keller
November 2015
November 2015
editors' picks
EAT THIS
STEAK FRITES at THE LIBERTINE is corner bistro comfort. Flank steak is covered in an aromatic rub and seared for
a charred outer crust and meltingly tender center. The stunner is served with twice-fried, hand-cut fries with a perfect crisptender bite. And the pice de rsistance? Teetering atop the meat, a quenelle of foie gras butter slowly melts while you
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER
November 2015
November 2015
ANTHONY DEVOTI
Many of us have vivid food
memories, whether its a
defining meal from childhood
or a palate revelation from
last week. Food contributes
to who we are. For Five Bistro
chef-owner Anthony Devoti,
who recently launched J. Devoti
Grocery, family meals and
farm-raised ingredients left an
indelible mark on his cooking.
Here, the three meals that
changed his life and shaped his
career. Kristin Schultz
November 2015
1. Childhood
Sunday Breakfasts
A huge influence on my culinary life is
coming home and cooking breakfast with
Mom and Dad after church and watching
Channel 9. First were Julia Child reruns,
then Jacques Ppin and then Julia and
Jacques. It was my introduction to cooking
and cooking with family.
At breakfast, eggs were huge and
everyone wanted a different style. My
mom likes scrambled, my dad likes fried,
I like poached, so we would play with
that. Bacon, eggs, roasted potatoes,
toast: a nice big family breakfast. The
house smelled awesome. It set me on the
food track. I went to the French Culinary
Institute, where Jacques Ppin is a dean.
Watching the old Jacques Ppin TV
shows really impacted my career. It set my
direction: Cooking is cool. Cooking is fun.
Its family-oriented.
3. Zuni Caf,
San Francisco, 2004
I was working in Chesterfield, and I wanted to
open my own restaurant. I felt frustrated with
the quality and level of food. I split and moved
to San Francisco with the sole intention of
finding farm-to-table restaurants. I was there
Five Bistro
5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis,
314.773.5553, fivebistro.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 11
November 2015
hit list
After years of planning, renovating and baking, Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer have opened the highly
anticipated Union Loafers in Botanical Heights. The cafe and bakery serves a small, rotating lunch menu
of sandwiches, soups and salads along with artisanal loaves. Bite into the roasted pork sandwich, their take on a Cuban made
with roast pork, country ham, Gruyere and house-made pickles piled high on Loafers ciabatta with house-made mustard and
mayonnaise. Or try the smoked beet sandwich, also on ciabatta, which marries ruby sliced beets with Emmenthal cheese, hardboiled egg, house-fermented sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The real dark horse is a delectable nut butter and housemade jam sandwich (almond butter and raspberry jam during our visit) on buttered Light & Mild country loaf; its a childhood
staple all grown up. Go green with a Little Gem Salad tossed with house buttermilk dressing, pickled shallots, fine herbs and
sourdough breadcrumbs, and dont forget to pick up a full or half-loaf on your way out to savor artisanal bread all week long.
Union Loafers, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
November 2015
November 2015
hit oflist
p. 2
TAI KE
Lace up your
boots and
hike over
to Retreat
Gastropub in the Central West End
for elevated pub food. Grab a seat
at the concrete bar or cedar tables
and benches lining the interior and
tuck in to the substantial poutine
with fried fingerling potatoes
and cheese curds bathed in a rich
mushroom demi-glace. Though you
may want to inhale all the gravysoaked goodness, leave room
for the Farmhouse Burger. Two
smashed beef patties topped with
house-made cheese sauce, candied
bacon and a sunny egg, served on
an English muffin-like bun from
Companion. Be sure to grab a
drink at the bar, which serves up a
creative cocktail menu embroidered
with house-made tinctures and
shrubs. You cant go wrong with the
Fort Collins, a lively concoction of
Bulldog gin, grapefruit and lemon
juices, Amaro Averna, IPA syrup, a
black pepper tincture and house
vermouth.
RETREAT
GASTROPUB
BYRD &
BARREL
Robata is the
first of several
anticipated
ramen
restaurants to open its doors in the
St. Louis area. But before you slurp,
peruse the numerous yakitori options
and share the grilled shishito peppers,
pork belly or bacon-wrapped enoki
mushrooms, all skewered and grilled
to order. An array of sushi is available,
too (Robatas owners ran the nowshuttered Sekisui). The main event,
though, is the ramen, which can be
customized with a variety of noodle
choices, broths and garnishes. We
sunk our spoons into regular-cut
noodles swimming in tonkotsu-style
ramen, featuring rich pork broth
topped with roast pork, green onions,
a boiled egg, bamboo shoots, bean
sprouts, pickled ginger and wood-ear
mushrooms.
ROBATA OF
MAPLEWOOD
3
1
Farmhouse
Burger at Retreat
Gastropub
2
Retreat Gastropub
3
Tonkotsu-style
ramen at
Robata of
Maplewood
4
Mother Clucker
sandwich at
Byrd & Barrel
5
The patio at
Byrd & Barrel
November 2015
reviews
All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.
three springs
farm strip
steak at J.
McArthur's
J. McArthurs An
American Kitchen
BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN
new and notable J. MCARTHUR'S AN AMERICAN KITCHEN p. 17 / power lunch TWISTED RANCH p. 20 / nightlife MANCHESTER PUBLIC HOUSE p. 23
November 2015
reviews
AT A GLANCE
J. McArthurs An
American Kitchen
Where
J. McArthurs An American
Kitchen, 3500 Watson Road,
St. Louis, 314.353.9463,
jmcarthurs.com
Dont Miss
Dishes
Chicken wings, panseared scallops, any
daily cut
Vibe
Warm,
comfortable and
laid-back. Bring
the neighbors.
Entree
Prices
$12 to $30
When
Tue. and Wed. 5 to 9
p.m.; Thu. to Sat. 5 to 10
p.m.; Sun. brunch 10 a.m.
to 2 p.m.
November 2015
November 2015
reviews
POWER LUNCH
Power Lunch
TWISTED RANCH
BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON
THE TAKEAWAY
3
November 2015
November 2015
November 2015
nightlife
reviews
NIGHTLIFE
November 2015
ORDER IT:
Manchester
Public House
November 2015
Check out
Glenn Bardgett's
pick for a Chilean
white
dine
& drink
A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
Its rare for me to
discover a white wine
grape I never knew
existed, especially one
grown on vines more than
a century old. Yet Ive
just met sauvignon gris.
GLENN BARDGETT
Only 300 cases of the
Member of the Missouri Wine
perfumed, weighty 2014
and Grape Board and wine
Casa Silva Sauvignon
director at Annie Gunns
Gris were imported
from Chile. A natural,
more intense mutation
of sauvignon blanc, the wine has enough flavor,
nose and character to make it an exciting
addition to St. Louis wine scene. At a scant $20,
oysters Rockefeller never paired so well.
November 2015
November 2015
COCKTAILS
N E V E R S AY
NEVER
BY K R I S T I N S C H U LT Z
Kentucky Coffee
Whiskey is so much more than Jack and coke. This
cocktail requires several posh tricks to assemble
including fire and an espresso machine but its worth the
wait. The resulting concoction has a briskly aromatic nose
from the cinnamon and cayenne floated atop vanilla beanwhipped cream. Beneath the frothy crown is a heated
blend of Buffalo Trace bourbon, cold-brew coffee and
caramelized brown sugar. Small Batch Whiskey & Fare,
3001 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.380.2040, smallbatchstl.com
Kentucky Coffee
at Small Batch
Whiskey & Fare
Pine Revival
Drinking bad gin is a little like licking the side of a
spruce. But good gin mixed with the right ingredients
may just convert you. Enter the Pine Revival, a vigorously
shaken blend of Uncle Vals fragrant botanical gin, Lillet
Blanc, Clockwork Orange liqueur, lemon juice and
cardamom bitters. Served in an absinthe-rinsed glass,
its a sophisticated sip that is at once soft, piney, floral
and dry. The Gin Room, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis,
314.771.3411, natashasginroom.com
Capirotazo
Banish the memory of your tequila-shooting youth
and embrace agave-spirited adulthood. Tres Agaves
Reposado tequilas warm vanilla notes get along
famously with the assertive combo of Dumante espresso
liqueur, Cocchi Barolo Chinato, a dash of allspice dram
and Angostura bitters. The bar shakes it all up with a
whole egg for a creamy, froth-topped finish. But the
flavor train doesnt stop there. A fresh black pepper
garnish lingers on the palate to round out this elegant
sipper. Frazers Restaurant & Lounge, 1811 Pestalozzi St.,
St. Louis, 317.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com
Backseat Freestyle
You dont need leather-bound books and a cigar
collection to enjoy brandy. Tastes seasonal cocktail
November 2015
My Basic Girl
Dont give vodka the cold shoulder. Perhaps the most
basic of the base spirits, vodka has few defining flavor
notes, making it a blank canvas for bold, full flavors
like pumpkin spice. London Vodka, StillJoy Vienna
Roast liqueur and house-made pumpkin-spiced simple
Rum Collins
Sometimes, all it takes to erase the ghosts of rum and
cokes past is a simple revision of a classic recipe. The
rum Collins is a favorite in Puerto Rico, and its not
hard to see why. The effervescent first sip, courtesy
of fresh lemon juice and a club soda topper, mellows
into a slightly sweet, vanilla-hinted finish from Don Q
Anejo Puerto Rican rum and simple syrup. BCs Kitchen,
11 Meadows Circle Drive No. 400, Lake St. Louis,
636.542.9090, billcardwell.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27
VEGETIZE IT
Tajine
BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER
28
November 2015
November 2015
SWEET POTATO
TAJINE
8 SERVINGS
29
November 2015
MAKE
THIS
WARM GARLIC SOUP
ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES
MAKE THIS
This quick-to-make, comforting soup will fill your belly and protect
you from any vampires hanging around after Halloween. Pour 3
cups chicken stock into a large, microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 3
minutes. In a medium pot over medium-high heat, saute cup minced yellow onion in 2
tablespoons olive oil until translucent, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add
12 cloves chopped garlic (a heaping cup) and saute 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the warm broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 1 cup diced day-old bread,
season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, cover and cook 30
seconds. Remove from heat and use an immersion blender or work in batches in a
blender to puree the soup until smooth. Garnish with chopped green onions. Dee Ryan
November 2015
American Classics
YOU SHOULD KNOW HOW TO MAKE
Its time to revive some old-school American classics. If Grandma didnt teach you
right, keep reading for help from St. Louis pros. From Caesar salad to baked ham
and mashed potatoes, these seven recipes will never go out of style.
November 2015
classic
old-fashioned
A classic Old-Fashioned is the granddaddy of whiskey cocktails. The simple, timehonored trio of whiskey, bitters and sugar is best complemented by the natural
sweetness of cherry and fresh orange. Dustin Parres, corporate bar manager at Gamlin
Whiskey House, contended that technique makes the Old-Fashioned so special
something often ignored by bartenders who slap the drink together using bottled juices
and bland, mass-produced cherries. If they arent breaking out a muddler, you know
that theyre doing it wrong, Parres said. Check out his take on the classic. M.B.
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9
November 2015
caesar
salad
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9
Few salads are more iconic than Caesar. We turned to chef Kier
Puckett at Mike Shannons Steaks & Seafood for his take on this
steakhouse classic. Step one: Put down that bottled dressing. This
umami-packed DIY version uses raw egg yolks, white anchovy fillets,
roasted garlic and cold olive oil Pucketts secret to a thick, rich
dressing. Step two: Give the emperor of salads a proper throne. Add
the dressing to a nonreactive wooden or glass serving bowl, then
toss with crisp romaine. Hail, Caesar! L.S.
spaghetti
and
meatballs
R E C I P E S O N P. 4 1
November 2015
baked
ham
If your holiday isnt complete without a beautiful
glazed ham, call your butcher shop this year and
place an order for uncooked country ham instead
of a bagged, precooked option. Theyre a bit more
work, so we turned to Juniper chef-owner John
Perkins to guide us through the days of soaking,
baking and glazing to make a proper country ham
worth the wait. D.R.
November 2015
Bake
Glaze
Serve
November 2015
mashed
potatoes
and
gravy
November 2015
Nothing says love like a big bowl of mashed potatoes and gravy. Every
family has its favorite rendition of this classic dish, and even the pros
disagree about some things. Kevin Nashan, chef-owner of Peacemaker
Lobster & Crab Co. and Sidney Street Cafe, prefers a rough mash
of partially peeled, small red potatoes or fingerlings. Gerard Craft,
chef-owner of the Niche Food Group, goes for a smooth puree of
russet potatoes. Nashan seasons his water; Craft doesnt. But lumpy or
whipped, fingerlings or russets, milk or cream, there are some things all
good mashers can agree upon. D.R.
6 steps to the
perfect mash
Cut about 3 pounds potatoes (such
as russet, fingerling or small red
potatoes) into equal 1 - to 2-inch
cubes.
Place those spuds in a very large pot
of cold water and give them room to
dance with 1 inch of water above them.
Set the pot over medium-high heat.
Put a fork in it. Three pounds of
potatoes cooked over medium-high
take about 30 to 35 minutes. When a
fork goes in easily or breaks the potato,
drain immediately. If the potatoes fight
back, continue to cook, checking every
5 minutes. Pay attention: Overcooked
potatoes make a soupy mash.
Burn calories while you mash. The
paddle attachment on a stand
mixer works, but it is easy to go
from perfection to glue when using
appliances. Keep it old-school with a
wire masher and leave some lumps,
if youre into that. If you like a silkysmooth texture, use a potato ricer.
Use about 1 stick melted butter and
cup milk, half-and-half or cream
ham gravy
Traditionally, gravy is built from the pan
drippings of roasted meat. So what do
you do when baked ham, the drippings
from which will be a sugary glaze, is on
the menu? More importantly, how do
you avoid lumpy gravy a punishable
crime in most homes? The trick is to
start with a roux.
Nashan suggested making the roux
with a fat-rich slice of precooked
ham about the size of a matchbook.
Dice it up, then sear it in a large
saucepan over medium-low heat
until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add
1 tablespoon butter, then stir in 4
chopped fresh sage leaves and 1
tablespoon minced shallot. Cook 1
minute, stirring occasionally, then
remove the ham and set aside. Stir
in 3 more tablespoons butter until
melted, then whisk in 6 tablespoons
all-purpose flour and cook until
golden, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring
constantly. The roux should be the
consistency of custard. If its thin,
add a bit more flour.
To finish the gravy, whisk in cup
room-temperature dry white wine.
The roux will likely seize a bit, so
dont worry if it rolls into a ball.
Stir in 1 cups room temperature
pork stock, whisking constantly. As
you whisk, the roux will turn into
gravy in 3 to 5 minutes. For the
smoothest gravy, pour it through a
fine-mesh sieve, pressing solids with
the back of a spoon, or for more
texture, stir the reserved ham into
gravy.
Pork stock ($6 per quart)is
available at Truffles Butchery, 9202
Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100,
todayattruffles.com
recipes
OLD-FASHIONED
Courtesy of Gamlin Whiskey Houses
Dustin Parres
1 SERVING
CAESAR SALAD
Courtesy of Mike Shannons Steaks &
Seafoods Kier Puckett
4 SERVINGS
2 to 4 slices grilled baguette, plus more
for serving
4 white anchovy fillets,* coarsely
chopped
3 roasted garlic cloves
2 egg yolks
cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Dash Worcestershire sauce
cup cold olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
6 heads romaine lettuce, chopped
In the bowl of a food processor, pulse
the baguette slices to create about
cup breadcrumbs. Add the anchovy
fillets, garlic, egg yolks, ParmigianoReggiano, lemon juice, mustard and
Worcestershire and puree until well
blended. With the machine running,
add the oil in a slow stream to
Continued on p. 41
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39
chicken and
dumplings
R E C I P E O N P. 4 1
miso +
mushrooms
tomatoes,
zucchini, yellow
squash + red wine
ginger +
lemongrass
juniper +
marjoram
November 2015
CHICKEN AND
DUMPLINGS
Adapted from a recipe by
Herbies Vintage 72s Chris Vomund
4 SERVINGS
cup olive oil
4 Tbsp. white wine vinegar, divided
2 lbs. boneless, skin-on chicken thighs*
2 Tbsp. butter
2 carrots, sliced
2 large celery ribs, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small onion, diced
2 tsp. dried rosemary, divided
2 tsp. dried sage, divided
2 tsp. dried thyme, divided
2 cups dry white wine
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups flour, divided, plus more for
dusting
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
cup water
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
In a large mixing bowl, whisk
together the olive oil and 2
tablespoons vinegar. Add the chicken
thighs and toss to coat. Cover and
refrigerate overnight.
In a large Dutch oven over
medium-high heat, melt the butter.
Meanwhile, pat the chicken dry with
paper towels. Cook the chicken skinside down until browned and the fat
renders, 10 to 15 minutes. Flip the
chicken and cook another 5 minutes,
then transfer to a cutting board. Pour
all but 1 tablespoon pan drippings
into a measuring cup. It should total
about cup.
Add the carrots, celery, garlic and
onion to the Dutch oven over medium
heat and cover, stirring occasionally,
until the vegetables are tender,
about 10 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon
rosemary, 1 teaspoon sage and
1 teaspoon thyme and stir about
30 seconds. Increase heat to high,
November 2015
MEATBALLS
Courtesy of Randolfis Mike Randolph
4 TO 6 SERVINGS
6 oz. artisanal day-old white bread, cut
into -inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 cups buttermilk
1 lbs. ground lamb
1 lbs. ground pork
1 egg
2 tsp. chopped fresh garlic
SPAGHETTI WITH
HERBS AND CHEESE
Courtesy of Randolfis Mike Randolph
4 SERVINGS
1 lb. dried spaghetti
cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp. minced shallot
1 cup grated Parmesan
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
tsp. red pepper flakes
4 tsp. lemon juice
GINGER ALE
HAM GLAZE
Adapted from a recipe by
Junipers John Perkins
1 CUP
1 cup Blenheims or Bruce Cost ginger
ale
cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp. sorghum or molasses
2 Tbsp. whole-grain Dijon mustard
In a saucepan over low heat,
combine all ingredients. Stirring
occasionally, simmer until slightly
thickened, about 15 minutes.
fish and
chips
Fresh haddock is beer-battered and paired with housemade American chips the Brits would call crisps. The
fillet has just the right amount of batter and is equally
delicious on its own, with malt vinegar or the classic
house tartar sauce, which is smooth and tangy. Youll
want to savor every last crunchy chip, too. A slice of
lemon and house-made pickles complete this coalition
of flavors that can stand up to the stoutest beer.
November 2015
SHORT LIST
November 2015
stuff to do:
NOVEMBER
BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ
Cranksgiving
Nov. 8 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., City
Museum, 750 N. 16th St.,
St. Louis, bworks.org/
cranksgiving
Strap on a helmet,
grab a backpack and
get pedaling during
this years Cranksgiving. Choose routes from 5
to 25 miles and cycle to participating grocery
stores to buy canned goods and stock Food
Outreachs food pantry. Once youve finished
your ride and dropped off your donations,
refuel at the City Museum with eats from
Local Harvest, Sugarfire Smoke House and Pie
Oh My! Register online.
Cocktails and
Conversation
Nov. 20 7 to 8:30 p.m., Saint Louis
Art Museum, 1 Government Drive,
St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org
Cool jazz and sleek, midcentury modern design
come together at the November installment
of Cocktails and Conversation. Jazz St. Louis
Phil Dunlap will lead an exploration of the
connections between jazz and 1950s design.
Soak up the music and knowledge while
sipping on classics like Manhattans, Tom
Collins or sidecars from the cash bar. Tickets
available online or in advance at the museum.
Farm Dinner
Nov. 20, 21 and 28 6 to 9:30 p.m.,
Claverach Farm, 568 S. Lewis Road,
Eureka, 636.938.7353,
claverachfarm.com
Sturdy winter greens,
sweet root vegetables
and roasted preserved
tomatoes and peppers take center stage in
Schlafly Winter
Market
Nov. 21 8:30 a.m. to
noon, 7260 Southwest Ave.,
Maplewood,
314.241.2337 x2,
schlaflyfarmersmarket.com
When the weather
turns cold and gray,
the farmers market at Schlafly Bottleworks
moves inside. Fall squash, greens, meats,
cheeses and sweets abound at the weekend
version of the warm-weather favorite just in
time for your Thanksgiving feast. Look for
offerings from vendors like Kakao Chocolate,
Ozark Forest Mushrooms, Baetje Farms and
more, then grab brunch in the Bottleworks
dining room.
Wine Diva
Weekend
Nov. 21 and 22 11 a.m. to
5 p.m., participating wineries,
800.398.1298,
rdvwinetrail.com
Pile your girlfriends
in the car and head
to Ste. Genevieve
County for a weekend of Missouri vino and
tasting plates. Drive the scenic, winding
roads to Charleville, Chaumette, Sainte
Genevieve, Twin Oaks, Cave Vineyard and
Sand Creek wineries and taste a signature
vintage paired with a savory or sweet snack.
Start at any participating winery and pick
November 2015
Edwardsville
Gastro Tour
Nov. 28 noon to 4 p.m.,
Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St.,
Edwardsville, stlculinarytours.com
Taste the best of
Edwardsville on this
four-hour tour of area restaurants. ClevelandHeath will offer cocktails and appetizers to
start the afternoon, followed by wood-fired
pizza and craft beer at Peel. Hop next door to
Mike Shannons Grill for wine, steak and crab
cakes, and then swing back to Main Street for
dessert and a digestif at Cleveland-Heath.
Tickets available online.
sponsored events
Green Ball
Nov. 6 7 to 11 p.m., Moonrise Hotel, 6177 Delmar Blvd.,
St. Louis, 314.577.5118, mobot.org/greenball
Its a party for the planet. Enjoy local eats from
area vendors like Local Harvest, The Dam,
Nathalies, Pint Size Bakery, La Vista CSA and
The Wolf. An open bar will feature Boulevard
beer and Noboleis wine, and Square One
will be on hand with liquor samples. Show off
your upcycled and sustainable fashion sense
and enter the Green Fashion Contest. Tickets
available online or by phone; proceeds benefit
EarthWays Center of the Missouri Botanical
Garden, which supports sustainability
education.
Farmers Formal2015
Nov. 14 6 to 10 p.m., The Sheet Metal Workers Grand Hall, 2319
Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, earthdancefarms.org/farmers-formal
Dance the night away at the Farmers
Formal to support the EarthDance organic
farm school in Ferguson. Chef Rex Hale
of The Restaurant at The Cheshire and
Russos Catering will use EarthDance Farm
produce to create delicious eats, and the
local chapter of Les Dames dEscoffier
and students from the Ferguson-Florissant
school district will present 50 pies for
dessert in a Pie Parade. Tickets available
online or at the door.
Cheers to 35 Years
Through January 2016, participating locations,
operationfoodsearch.org
Join Operation Food Search in celebrating
35 years of feeding hungry St. Louisans.
Now through January 2016, purchase a glass
or bottle of OFS Wine at a participating
restaurant or retailer. Take a selfie enjoying
your selection, then post it to Facebook,
Twitter or Instagram with @OpFoodSearch
or @SauceMag and #Cheersto35Years. A
portion of the wine sale benefits OFS, and
youre entered in a drawing to win a case of
wine. A full list of participating restaurants is
available online.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45
WHAT I DO
The Royale
Food & Spirits
3132 S. Kingshighway
Blvd., St. Louis,
314.772.3600,
theroyale.com
November 2015
November 2015
November 2015
guide to the
holidays
Holiday brunch
croissant French
toast casserole, p. 17
THE
STARTER
KITCHEN
3. Culinary herb
garden basket
4. Truffles Butchery
classes
Barr-Co. Soap
Clean hands are a necessity for
good cooking, but which soap to
choose? Barr-Co.s locally made
natural soaps smell wonderful,
leave hands silky smooth and will
remind guests how classy the
cook is. $32. K. Hall Studio, 8416
Manchester Road, Brentwood,
314.963.3293, khalldesigns.com
2. Barr-Co.
soap
Culinary Herb
Garden Basket
Growing herbs is even easier
with a pre-seeded herb garden
basket. It includes Genovese
basil, chives, oregano, thyme
and Italian parsley, plus three
herb tools to add beautiful green
garnish to any dish. $50. Larder
& Cupboard, 7310 Manchester
Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995,
larderandcupboard.com
Truffles Butchery
Classes
A two- to three-hour class with
the expert butchers at Truffles is
a win-win: Attendees learn the
basics of meat management and
take home half a hog. Does your
burgeoning chef want to learn
how to make sausages? Truffles
can teach that, too. Classes can
be tailored to any carnivores
dreams. $150 per person.
Truffles Butchery, 9202 Clayton
Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100,
todayattruffles.com
Facture Goods
Cutting board
Facture Goods, based out of
Columbia, Missouri, makes musthave cutting boards that are
both functional and beautiful.
Properly taken care of, these will
last for years. $40. Winslows
Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd.,
University City, 314.725.7559,
winslowshome.com
5. Facture Goods
cutting board
2. Wild rose
liqueur
THE BOOZEHOUND
3. Scrappys
assorted bitters
4. Cut-crystal decanter
Cut-crystal glass
Remember those cut-crystal
decanters your parents dusted
off at parties, always full of
mysterious, exciting liquids?
Bellbottoms may be out, but
glassware never is. And unless
Grandmas attending the
shindig, they dont even have
to fill it with crme de menthe.
Prices vary. Jon Paul Design
& Collectables, 7014 Clayton
Road, Clayton, 314.645.2722,
jonpauldesigns.com
The Gentlemans
Companion
If your Secret Santa likes pisco,
get him a copy of the reissued
The Gentlemans Companion,
Charles Henry Bakers
1939 travelogue combining
unconventional (and astonishingly
un-PC) storytelling, food and
cocktail recipes collected
from the authors travels. $10.
Available for order from
Subterranean Books,
6275 Delmar Blvd.,
St. Louis, 314.862.6100,
store.subbooks.com
5. The
Gentlemans
Companion
1. Monthly
wine club
4. Microgreen
microgarden
1. Cocoa and
marshmallows
Cocoa and
Marshmallows
Warm their hearts and bellies
with all the fixings for a perfect
mug of hot cocoa. Choose from
regular, milk chocolate, chai,
Mexican or mint chocolate mix
and pair it with a bag of pillowy
vanilla bean marshmallows.
Cocoa: $6. Marshmallows: $4 to
$5. Kakao Chocolate, multiple
locations, kakaochocolate.com
2. Butchers box
meat packs
Cooking Classes
Send them back to school with
gift certificates for classes
at Kitchen Conservatory.
Instructors like Josh Galliano
of Companion Baking, Qui
Tran of Mai Lee and in-house
kitchen pros conduct classes
on everything from French
pastry to pho. With diverse
classes at all price points, theres
something for everyone. $40
and up. Kitchen Conservatory,
8021 Clayton Road, Richmond
Heights, 314.862.2665,
kitchenconservatory.com
Microgreen microgarden
Pretty and purposeful, this
countertop greenhouse from
Infarm allows the culinary
and curious alike to watch
microgreens grow in two weeks
or less, thanks to a transparent
enclosure, agar-agar and seeds.
This reusable indoor garden will
keep the planters thumb plenty
green until the ground thaws.
$28. Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive
St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868,
bowoodfarms.com
3. Cooking
classes
Mark Bittmans
Kitchen Matrix
Acclaimed food writer and
advocate Mark Bittmans latest
release, Mark Bittmans Kitchen
Matrix: More Than 700 Simple
Recipes and Techniques to
Mix and Match for Endless
Possibilities teaches them how to
break the rules. Offering flexible
ingredients and guidelines,
Bittmans book both educates
the home cook and allows
for creativity. $35. The Novel
Neighbor, 7905 Big Bend Blvd.,
Webster Groves, 314.738.9384,
thenovelneighbor.com
5. Mark Bittmans
Kitchen Matrix
THE FOOD
SNOB
5. Fruit bowl
3. Food snob
apron
Caviar
James Bond and the Russian
czars may have enjoyed it, but
the good stuff from the Caspian
Sea is all but gone thanks to
geopolitics, overfishing and other
factors. However, this Sarasota,
Florida-based producer farmraises black sturgeon from egg to
fish using sustainable aquaculture
methods. Pass the Champagne.
Platinum: $76; Reserve: $95.
Healthy Earth Black Opal
Caviar, healthyearth.org
Artisanal Chocolate
Not just any truffle will do.
Thankfully, theres St. Louis
chocolatier Sheila Kleinschmidt
of Oh Sheila! Chocolates, who
crafts truffles, caramels, bars and
chocolate bacon as decadent
as her retro dresses and 1940s
hairdo. Rum chipotle truffles with
smoked sea salt? Bacon, caramel
and pecan chocolate clusters?
Oh, Sheila! Prices vary. Kind
Soap Co., 20 Allen Ave., Webster
Groves, 314.942.2024;
ohsheila.com
Age-your-own whiskey
The food snob likes to be in
control. St. Louis Still 630 makes
DIY whiskey foolproof with its
home whiskey-aging kit, complete
with a tiny charred white oak
barrel, high-proof unaged
whiskey (corn, rye and barley
mash bill) and two fancy tasting
glasses. Heres to you, Mr. Van
Winkle. $139. Still 630 Distillery,
1000 S. Fourth St., St. Louis,
314.513.2275, still630.com
Fruit bowl
This Espera Centerpiece bowlcum-colander design was inspired
by the behavior and the beautiful
webbed form of the sea fan (aka
the sea fern we looked it up). If
that werent snobby enough, its
made of hand-polished stainless
steel or comes in a 24-karat gold
version. No better way to serve
your Ruby Roman grapes (aka the
worlds most expensive grape we
looked that up, too). $350. Anna
New York by RabLabs, rablabs.com
4. Age-yourown-whiskey
1. Caviar
2. Artisanal chocolate
seasons
brunchings
Shot on location at
the residence
of The Place Home
owner-designer
Emily Mitchell,
theplacehome.com
Holiday brunch is the most wonderful time of the year. It breaks down barriers:
between breakfast and lunch, sweet and savory, coffee and booze and, now, between
host and guest. With make-ahead recipes and simple brunch staples, all you need to
do is preheat the oven, put out the plates and enjoy a meal with people special enough
to invite over before noon.
BY H E ATH E R H U G H E S , K E LLI E H Y N E S , JA M I E K I LG O R E , TE D K I LG O R E , C ATH E R I N E K LE N E ,
A N N E M A R I E LO D H O L Z , DA N LO D H O L Z , M E E R A N AG A R A JA N , M AG G I E PE A R S O N ,
S PE N C E R PE R N I KO FF A N D D E E RYA N // PH OTOS BY E M I LY SUZ A N N E M C D O N A LD
MILK
PUNCH
1 CUP
3 WAYS
Brew the perfect cup for
brunch and customize it to
your holiday stress level. H.H.
recipe on p. 21
Level 1
You overslept. Get a move on and
use your favorite pour-over setup
to make a mug of Sump Coffees
Costa Rica Las Lajas Perla Negra
(25 grams coffee to 350 grams
water). This balanced natural
coffee has a hint of fruitiness that
lets the brew stand on its own.
Level 2
Aunt Susan just showed up
unannounced with her four kids
in tow. Add 1 ounce Makers Mark
to that brewed coffee for a shot
of stress relief, then slap on a
smile and find some extra chairs.
Level 3
Your helpful preschooler just
dropped a dozen eggs on the floor.
Sometimes happy hour starts at 10
a.m. Use an electic mixer to beat
cup heavy cream with 1 tablespoon
powdered sugar on medium-high
speed for 3 minutes, then fold
in 1 tablespoon Carpano Antica
Formula sweet vermouth. Top
your bourbon-spiked brew with a
healthy dollop for a Manhattaninspired
of peace.
Guide moment
to the Holidays
2015
CROISSANT
FRENCH TOAST
CASSEROLE
recipe on p. 21
BEST
BRUNCH
BUYS
Raw Missouri
Honey
Honey is the secret
ingredient in many of our
favorite brunch dishes.
Drizzle over roasted
Brussels sprouts, mix
with vinegar for salad
dressings or dollop over
bananas and yogurt.
Caruthersville, Missouri
harvester Sam Crowe
can hook you up with
the good stuff. $12.
The Heirloom Room,
2116 Cherokee St., St.
Louis, 314.772.8000,
theheirloomroom.com
Seasonal Oysters
Oysters for brunch
may seem odd in a
landlocked state, but
Bobs Seafood brings
them in fresh enough
to transport you to the
Pacific Northwest. Add
a squeeze of lemon
juice to offset that sea
brine and pair with a
stiff bloody mary. Price
varies. Bobs Seafood,
8660 Olive Blvd.,
Olivette, 314.993.4844,
bobsseafoodstl.com
Lochhead Vanilla
Extract
The three-generationsold Lochhead vanilla
extract recipe is made
using a cold-extraction
process. With a rich,
smooth flavor, all your
holiday sweets deserve
a heavy pour. $11.
Available at Straubs
locations, straubs.com
Geisert Farms
Sausage Patties
Not everyone loves
bacon as much as Jim
Gaffigan. Offer some
variety with Geisert
Farms sausage patties
which should be pan-
Have leftover
croissants? Use
them in the croissant
French toast recipe
on p. 21.
Keep kitchen-space
invaders at bay with an
array of local pastries to
snack on before they sit
down to brunch. Here,
some of our favorite treats
from around town. H.H.
Croissant
$3. Comet Coffee &
Microbakery, 5708 Oakland
Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7770,
cometcoffeestl.com
Savory scone
$2.50. Pint Size Bakery,
3825 Watson Road, St. Louis,
314.645.7142,
pintsizebakery.com
PASTRY
PERFECT
Orange lavender
olive oil cake
$4. 4 Seasons Bakery,
2012 Campus Drive,
St. Charles, 314.288.9176,
4seasonsbakery.com
Big Mama vegan
cinnamon roll
$4. SweetArt, 2203 S. 39th
St., St. Louis, 314.771.4278,
sweetartstl.com
Pumpkin scone
$2.50. Whisk: A Sustainable
Bakeshop, 2201 Cherokee
St., St. Louis, 314.932.5166,
whiskstl.com
Cherry turnover
$3.50. Winslows Home, 7213
Delmar Blvd., University City,
314.725.7559, winslowshome.com
Guide to the Holidays 2015
MINI
YOGURT CUPS
Mini yogurt cups make a big impression.
The customizable, assembly-only treat is an
ideal brunch appetizer. Fill 4-ounce jars or
other cute glassware with about cup of
your favorite plain or vanilla yogurt. Top with
crunchy granola and julienned pear. H.H.
RECIPES
MILK PUNCH
GRATIN DE NICOLE
BLOODY MARY
WHITE CHEDDAR-BLUEBERRY
FRENCH TOAST CASSEROLE
Sharp white cheddar cheese adds
unexpected savory notes to a
traditionally sweet breakfast
treat. C.K.
Adapted from a recipe by
Diane Bianco
12 SERVINGS
2 cups frozen wild blueberries
cup sugar
cup water
2 Tbsp. maple syrup
1 Tbsp. orange zest
tsp. cinnamon
8 eggs
cup milk
tsp. baking powder
Pinch kosher salt
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 loaf day-old challah bread, torn into
bite-sized pieces
1 cups shredded white cheddar
In a medium saucepan over medium
heat, combine the blueberries,
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21
Hollandaise in a flash?
Yes, you can in a
blender.
Recipe on p. 23.
BAKED
EGGS
BAKED EGGS
BLENDER HOLLANDAISE