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pro

spaghetti and
meatball from
randolfi's
p. 35

GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS


(FLIP THE MAGAZINE OVER.)

S T L' S

7 old - s chool
r ecipes ge t t he
s t ar t r e a t men t

TO P

FISH AND CHIPS


P. 42

ST. LOUIS INDEPENDENT CULINARY AUTHORITY

November 2015

A M E R I C A' S B E ST
S O U R

P. 25
SAUCEMAGAZINE.COM

A L E

R E V I E W

TWISTED RANCH
P. 20
FREE, NOVEMBER 2015

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November 2015

November 2015

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November 2015

contents
NOVEMBER 2015

editors' picks

31

MAKE THIS
Warm garlic soup

by dee ryan

EAT THIS
Steak frites at The Libertine

last course

11

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE


Anthony Devoti of Five Bistro

44

STUFF TO DO
by kristin schultz

13

46

HIT LIST
5 new restaurants to try this month

reviews
17

NEW AND NOTABLE


J. McArthur's An American Kitchen

by michael renner

WHAT I DO
Steven Fitzpatrick Smith
of The Royale

by catherine klene

Features
32

20

7 AMERICAN CLASSICS YOU


SHOULD KNOW HOW TO MAKE

Twisted Ranch

by matt berkley, heather hughes, rebecca koenig,


meera nagarajan, dee ryan and lauren schumacker

POWER LUNCH
by hilary hitchcock

42

23

NIGHTLIFE
Manchester Public House

by matt berkley

SHORT LIST
Fish and chips

by andrew barrett

J. McArthur's
beet salad
p. 17

dine & drink


25

A SEAT AT THE BAR


Five experts tell us what to sip,
stir and shake

COVER DETAILS

by glenn bardgett, cory and karen king, and


ted and jamie kilgore

PHOTO BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

27

ELIXIR
Never say never

by kristin schultz
28

VEGETIZE IT
Tajine

by kellie hynes
November 2015

On this months Sound Bites, Five Bistro


chef-owner Anthony Devoti joins Sauce
art director Meera Nagarajan to discuss
what it truly means to run a farm-totable operation and how he developed
relationships with local farmers who supply
his restaurant. Tune in to St. Louis Public
Radio 90.7 KWMUs Cityscape Friday,
Nov. 13 at noon and 10 p.m.

(Flip the magazine over to read our


Guide to the Holidays.)
Make all things festive and merry with our Guide
to the Holidays. From Manhattan-inspired coffee
cocktails to a make-ahead croissant French
toast recipe, you'll find everything you need for a
stress-free holiday brunch. Then hit the shops to
find the perfect gift for the foodie in your life.
Photo by Emily Suzanne McDonald

Go Pro
Classic spaghetti and
meatballs get reinvented
by Randolfi's chef-owner
Mike Randolph. Find this
and other old-school
recipes you need to know
how to make on p. 32.
PHOTO BY
GREG RANNELLS

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

N O V E M B E R 2 015 VO LUM E 15, ISSU E 11


It's not
Thanksgiving
without...

PUBLISHER
ART DIRECTOR
MANAGING EDITOR
MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL
EDIBLE WEEKEND EDITOR
STAFF WRITER
CONTRIBUTING EDITORS
FACT CHECKERS
PROOFREADERS
PRODUCTION DESIGNER
CONTRIBUTING PHOTOGRAPHERS

CONTRIBUTING ILLUSTRATOR
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS
The sides especially
mashed potatoes!
Roasted turkey,
Wild Turkey and a
political debate

EVENTS COORDINATOR
LISTINGS MANAGER
ADVERTISING SALES MANAGER
ACCOUNT EXECUTIVES
ADVERTISING ACCOUNTS COORDINATOR
INTERNS

To place advertisements in Sauce


Magazine contact the advertising
department at 314.772.8004 or
sales@saucemagazine.com.
To carry Sauce Magazine at your store,
restaurant, bar or place of business
Contact Allyson Mace at 314.772.8004
or amace@saucemagazine.com.
All contents of Sauce Magazine are
copyright 2001-2015 by Bent Mind
Creative Group, LLC. The Sauce name
and logo are both registered to the
publisher, Bent Mind Creative Group,
LLC. Reproduction or other use, in

Allyson Mace
The leftovers
Meera Nagarajan
sandwich: turkey,
stuffing, cranberry
Heather Hughes
sauce and cream
Catherine Klene
cheese on a toasted
Catherine Klene
everything bagel.
Kristin Schultz
Garrett Faulkner, Rosanne Toroian
Rebecca Koenig, Kristin Schultz
Emily Lowery, Kristin Schultz
Michelle Volansky
Jonathan Gayman, Ashley Gieseking, Elizabeth
Maxson, Emily Suzanne McDonald, Greg
Rannells, Carmen Troesser, Michelle Volansky
Vidhya Nagarajan
Glenn Bardgett, Andrew Barrett, Matt
Berkley, Hilary Hitchcock, Heather Hughes,
Kellie Hynes, Jamie Kilgore, Ted Kilgore,
Cory King, Karen King, Catherine Klene,
Rebecca Koenig, Anne Marie Lodholz,
Dan Lodholz, Meera Nagarajan, Maggie
Pearson, Spencer Pernikoff, Michael Renner,
Dee Ryan, Kristin Schultz, Lauren Schumacker
Rebecca Ryan
Rebecca Ryan
Allyson Mace
Jill George, Angie Rosenberg
Jill George
Sophie Handler, Julia Keller

whole or in part, of the contents without


permission of the publisher is strictly
prohibited. While the information has
been compiled carefully to ensure
maximum accuracy at the time of
publication, it is provided for general
guidance only and is subject to change.
The publisher cannot guarantee the
accuracy of all information or be
responsible for omissions or errors.
Additional copies may be obtained by
providing a request at 314.772.8004 or
via mail. Postage fee of $2 will apply.

EDITORIAL POLICIES The Sauce


Magazine mission is to provide St.
Louis-area residents and visitors
with unbiased, complete information
on the areas restaurant, bar and
entertainment industry. Our editorial
content is not influenced by who
advertises with Sauce Magazine or
saucemagazine.com.

Sauce Magazine is printed on recycled


paper using soy inks.

Our reviewers are never provided with


complimentary food or drinks from the
restaurants in exchange for favorable
reviews, nor are their identities as
reviewers made known during their
visits.

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November 2015

November 2015

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November 2015

editors' picks

EAT THIS

STEAK FRITES at THE LIBERTINE is corner bistro comfort. Flank steak is covered in an aromatic rub and seared for
a charred outer crust and meltingly tender center. The stunner is served with twice-fried, hand-cut fries with a perfect crisptender bite. And the pice de rsistance? Teetering atop the meat, a quenelle of foie gras butter slowly melts while you
PHOTO BY CARMEN TROESSER

eat, coating each bite with savory decadence.


7927 FORSYTH BLVD., CLAYTON, 314.862.2999, LIBERTINESTL.COM

November 2015

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November 2015

MEALS THAT CHANGED MY LIFE

ILLUSTRATION BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

ANTHONY DEVOTI
Many of us have vivid food
memories, whether its a
defining meal from childhood
or a palate revelation from
last week. Food contributes
to who we are. For Five Bistro
chef-owner Anthony Devoti,
who recently launched J. Devoti
Grocery, family meals and
farm-raised ingredients left an
indelible mark on his cooking.
Here, the three meals that
changed his life and shaped his
career. Kristin Schultz

November 2015

1. Childhood
Sunday Breakfasts
A huge influence on my culinary life is
coming home and cooking breakfast with
Mom and Dad after church and watching
Channel 9. First were Julia Child reruns,
then Jacques Ppin and then Julia and
Jacques. It was my introduction to cooking
and cooking with family.
At breakfast, eggs were huge and
everyone wanted a different style. My
mom likes scrambled, my dad likes fried,
I like poached, so we would play with
that. Bacon, eggs, roasted potatoes,
toast: a nice big family breakfast. The
house smelled awesome. It set me on the
food track. I went to the French Culinary
Institute, where Jacques Ppin is a dean.
Watching the old Jacques Ppin TV
shows really impacted my career. It set my
direction: Cooking is cool. Cooking is fun.
Its family-oriented.

2. Christmas Eve Ravioli


My grandpa made ravioli every year for
Christmas. It was the focal point. We
had a big Italian family. Even now we do
Christmas Eve at my house, and thats what
we have every year. Its a dish that brings a
memory of him. We were really close.
Its a sausage and beef ravioli and a classic
Italian gravy and cheese. I dont know how
much of a recipe there is. You do this, then
you do this, then you do this, then you bake
it. I could write one out, but its more of an
old, Italian-eyeballed thing.

3. Zuni Caf,
San Francisco, 2004
I was working in Chesterfield, and I wanted to
open my own restaurant. I felt frustrated with
the quality and level of food. I split and moved
to San Francisco with the sole intention of
finding farm-to-table restaurants. I was there

a week and a half and walked by Zuni Caf. Id


just read a Saveur Magazine with (former Zuni
Caf chef-owner) Judy Rodgers on the front.
So I went in. I worked there for a little over a
year. It was exactly what I was looking for.
It was like, So-and-so brought tomatoes, and
they will be on your dish tonight.
The roasted chicken is an iconic dish at
Zuni. Cutting into one, its so juicy, and the
skin is crisp and it all came together. The
technique was perfect the way everything
was cooked was perfect. And the food was
rustic. It wasnt eyedroppers and tweezers;
it was real, proper, country French
and Italian food. I wanted to bring that
perfection back here. Judy Rodgers was a
major influence on Five Bistro.

Five Bistro
5100 Daggett Ave., St. Louis,
314.773.5553, fivebistro.com
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November 2015

hit list

5 new restaurants to try this month

Light & Mild bread


at Union Loafers Cafe
and Bread Bakery
UNION LOAFERS CAFE
AND BREAD BAKERY

PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

After years of planning, renovating and baking, Ted Wilson and Sean Netzer have opened the highly
anticipated Union Loafers in Botanical Heights. The cafe and bakery serves a small, rotating lunch menu
of sandwiches, soups and salads along with artisanal loaves. Bite into the roasted pork sandwich, their take on a Cuban made
with roast pork, country ham, Gruyere and house-made pickles piled high on Loafers ciabatta with house-made mustard and
mayonnaise. Or try the smoked beet sandwich, also on ciabatta, which marries ruby sliced beets with Emmenthal cheese, hardboiled egg, house-fermented sauerkraut and Thousand Island dressing. The real dark horse is a delectable nut butter and housemade jam sandwich (almond butter and raspberry jam during our visit) on buttered Light & Mild country loaf; its a childhood
staple all grown up. Go green with a Little Gem Salad tossed with house buttermilk dressing, pickled shallots, fine herbs and
sourdough breadcrumbs, and dont forget to pick up a full or half-loaf on your way out to savor artisanal bread all week long.

Union Loafers, 1629 Tower Grove Ave., St. Louis, 314.833.6111, unionloafers.com
November 2015

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November 2015

hit oflist
p. 2

You dont have


to be an expert
on Taiwanese
cuisine to
enjoy an authentic meal at Tai Ke.
Start with an array of small plates,
which are billed as side dishes and
Taiwanese snacks. We swooned
over the downy bao bun that holds
a sliver of flavorful pork belly, and
we devoured the link of red sausage
on a curved bed of sticky rice that
looks like a Taiwanese hot dog. Tai Ke
also handles beef with aplomb its
incredibly tender in both the beef
noodle soup (where you can cut your
meat with a spoon), and spiced up
with generous hits of black pepper in
the sizzling beef entree over rice.

TAI KE

Lace up your
boots and
hike over
to Retreat
Gastropub in the Central West End
for elevated pub food. Grab a seat
at the concrete bar or cedar tables
and benches lining the interior and
tuck in to the substantial poutine
with fried fingerling potatoes
and cheese curds bathed in a rich
mushroom demi-glace. Though you
may want to inhale all the gravysoaked goodness, leave room
for the Farmhouse Burger. Two
smashed beef patties topped with
house-made cheese sauce, candied
bacon and a sunny egg, served on
an English muffin-like bun from
Companion. Be sure to grab a
drink at the bar, which serves up a
creative cocktail menu embroidered
with house-made tinctures and
shrubs. You cant go wrong with the
Fort Collins, a lively concoction of
Bulldog gin, grapefruit and lemon
juices, Amaro Averna, IPA syrup, a
black pepper tincture and house
vermouth.

PHOTOS BY MICHELLE VOLANSKY AND MEERA NAGARAJAN

RETREAT
GASTROPUB

2 N. Sarah St., St. Louis, 314.261.4497,


retreatgastropub.com
November 2015

Byrd & Barrel


has come
home to roost
on Jefferson
Avenue. This new South City eatery
serves up pressure-fried chicken and
indulgent fare. Choose from one of
50 canned beers and start your meal
with the South Side Poutine: housemade tater tots coated in shreds of
smoked chicken, mellow cheese curds
and a choice of smoked mushroom
or chicken gravy. Order a few juicy
wings to share, but save room for the
over-the-top Mother Clucker sandwich
that piles a fried boneless thigh with
caramelized onions, spicy pepper jelly,
house-made Provel Cheez-whiz and
Red Hot Riplets. If you manage to save
room for a side, dont miss the creamy
Provel mac-n-cheese.

BYRD &
BARREL

3422 S. Jefferson Ave., St. Louis,


314.875.9998, Facebook: Byrd & Barrel

8604 Olive Blvd., University City,


314.801.8894

Robata is the
first of several
anticipated
ramen
restaurants to open its doors in the
St. Louis area. But before you slurp,
peruse the numerous yakitori options
and share the grilled shishito peppers,
pork belly or bacon-wrapped enoki
mushrooms, all skewered and grilled
to order. An array of sushi is available,
too (Robatas owners ran the nowshuttered Sekisui). The main event,
though, is the ramen, which can be
customized with a variety of noodle
choices, broths and garnishes. We
sunk our spoons into regular-cut
noodles swimming in tonkotsu-style
ramen, featuring rich pork broth
topped with roast pork, green onions,
a boiled egg, bamboo shoots, bean
sprouts, pickled ginger and wood-ear
mushrooms.

ROBATA OF
MAPLEWOOD

3
1
Farmhouse
Burger at Retreat
Gastropub
2
Retreat Gastropub
3
Tonkotsu-style
ramen at

Robata of
Maplewood
4
Mother Clucker
sandwich at
Byrd & Barrel
5
The patio at
Byrd & Barrel

7260 Manchester Road, Maplewood,


314.899.9595, robatamaplewood.com
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November 2015

reviews
All Sauce reviews are conducted anonymously.

three springs
farm strip
steak at J.
McArthur's

new and notable

J. McArthurs An
American Kitchen
BY MICHAEL RENNER | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

aming restaurants after family


members is a way to honor loved
ones and let diners know that
a place is personal. Co-owned
by chef Ben McArthur, his father John
McArthur (the restaurants namesake) and
stepmother Kathleen Bibbins, J. McArthurs
An American Kitchen is personal.

new and notable J. MCARTHUR'S AN AMERICAN KITCHEN p. 17 / power lunch TWISTED RANCH p. 20 / nightlife MANCHESTER PUBLIC HOUSE p. 23
November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

perfect for nice weather dining while


the back patio is still a cozy place to
congregate around the fire pit.

reviews

McArthur sources locally, serving pork,


beef, poultry, cheese and produce from
a steady list of about 15 farms and
purveyors. Emphasizing what he calls
regional specialties with a twist, the menu
trends toward sturdy staples like meatloaf
(invigorated by the use of Missouri wagyu
ground beef ). McArthurs maxim could
also be taken to mean and this is more
observation than criticism rich and heavy,
meat-and-potatoes fare.

NEW AND NOTABLE


p. 2 of 2

Seared diver scallops are served on


a pool of smoked corn bisque with
roasted Brussels sprouts, corn, pea
shoots and bacon.

In addition to meatloaf (served with


mashed potatoes, fresh green beans and
a wild mushroom demi-glace), there are
a wagyu burger and changing cuts of
Missouri beef and pork. One evening
it was a rib-eye with sauteed kale and
smoked Gouda potato gratin, all beautifully
prepared and presented.

Its a place you feel good in. The newly


renovated Lindenwood Park space is
warm, comfortable and as inviting as the

AT A GLANCE
J. McArthurs An
American Kitchen

pop of a wine cork among friends. The


covered front patio remains unchanged
from its former life as 3500 Winehaus

Where
J. McArthurs An American
Kitchen, 3500 Watson Road,
St. Louis, 314.353.9463,
jmcarthurs.com

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Starter highlights include


McArthurs unusual take on chicken
wings and tacos. The former were
brined in rosebud-flower tea, tossed in a
spicy-sweet glaze with charred onion tops
and served with vinegary, crunchy cold
chow-chow. The seemingly unnecessary
Alabama white barbecue sauce served
with it why have two sauces?
actually provided a creamy, piquant
counter balance (and perhaps a nod to
McArthurs time spent cooking in the
Southeast). The latter had all the makings
of a tasty taco: Three large, flash-fried
but foldable tortillas held braised cubes
of pork, pickled vegetables, chimichurri
(which made the tacos a tad oily) and
guacamole, topped with pea shoots and
cilantro.

Dont Miss
Dishes
Chicken wings, panseared scallops, any
daily cut

Vibe
Warm,
comfortable and
laid-back. Bring
the neighbors.

McArthurs risotto includes quotation


marks on the menu because he uses pearl
barley rather than traditional arborio rice.
An array of roasted vegetables made the dish
vegetarian-friendly tiny whole carrots,
chewy mushrooms, pea shoots and smoked
grape tomatoes. While the grain was cooked
to the proper consistency, the dish suffered
from a thin cream-based sauce. The acidic
brightness of the tomatoes helped cut
through the creaminess, but the vegetables
were mounded atop the risotto rather than
blended in to allow the flavors to marry.
Theres a daily fish special, but my
favorite seafood entree was an order of
diver scallops. In both presentation and
combination of flavors, the dish is perfect
for the season: Three plump mollusks
seared in a cast-iron skillet arrived in a
shallow pool of smoked corn bisque with
roasted Brussels sprouts, corn, pea shoots
and slivers of smoky bacon.
The wine list is surprisingly extensive
with nearly 60 bottles, six of them
sparkling. Sixteen wines by the glass cover
most desires and food pairings. The bar
itself sits a bit off the main dining room
and with extended hours most evenings,
seems like a welcome spot to watch a game
or socialize with regulars.
Two of three fun, shareable desserts are
made in-house, and the chocolate and
cheese board includes Crown Candy
chocolates and local cheeses. Rich panna
cotta came in a little canning jar topped
with sliced figs and apple gele. On the
side were two thick dried cranberry-pecan
oatmeal cookies, chewy and alive with
a hint of salt. Puffy, hot-from-the-fryer
beignets come with a changing assortment
of marmalades, which included strawberry
and blueberry during my visits.
While some dishes need tightening up
and the menu at J. McArthurs doesnt
break any new ground, there are enough
twists to keep me coming back for more. It
takes moxie and talent to open your own
restaurant, and McArthur has both. Dad
should be proud.

Entree
Prices
$12 to $30

When
Tue. and Wed. 5 to 9
p.m.; Thu. to Sat. 5 to 10
p.m.; Sun. brunch 10 a.m.
to 2 p.m.

November 2015

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

reviews
POWER LUNCH

Power Lunch

TWISTED RANCH
BY HILARY HITCHCOCK | PHOTOS BY ELIZABETH MAXSON

Twisted Ranch garnered national media attention for its unusual,


ranch-themed concept when it opened this summer: a bar and grill
with a twist of ranch.

RANCH ON THE SIDES


Sandwiches come with one side, and the
hand-cut fries were a standout: Coated
with a house
blend of ranch
seasoning, they
Twisted Ranch
were the ideal
1730 S. Eighth St., St.
combination of a
Louis, 314.833.3450,
crispy outside and
twistedranch.com
a fluffy interior.
For a healthier
option, the
side salad was pretty basic but fresh. The
loaded potato salad was better than most
not too sweet or mustardy.

WELCOME TO THE RANCH


Metal-topped tables and bar shelves
made from pipes create a subtle industrial
theme in the 50-seat restaurant. Better
ventilation would improve the atmosphere
considerably, since smoke from the kitchen
often lingers. But service is friendly:
Multiple staffers greeted us upon entry, and
the servers worked as a team to keep things
moving smoothly. We were in and out in
about an hour.
THE RANCHES DTRE
Of 17 house-made ranches [1], the most
popular are cheesy bacon, Sriracha, roasted
garlic and avocado. Always Sunny in
Fetadelphia has sun-dried tomato and feta,
and the Kemowasabi is wasabi and honeybased. We tried about half, and the double
D (Dijon and Durkee sauce) and the garlic
ranch were favorites. Part of the fun is trying
multiple flavors, although it can be hard to
distinguish among them after a while.
DIPS ON DIPS
Starters are plentiful and heavy. The Buffalo
chicken dip [3] could do with another dash
of house-made Buffalo sauce it needed the
additional heat and vinegar tang but was
creamy and didnt skimp on the chicken.
The baked dip came with corn chips, a
sturdy alternative to the expected tortilla.
Loaded fresh-cut fries [2] were topped with
what appeared to be cheese sauce (though the
menu billed it melted cheddar), buttermilkbasil ranch, bacon and green onions. This
tasty profligate dish came with a choice of
two ranch sauces on the side, which was
overkill since there was nary a naked fry to

20 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

THE TAKEAWAY

dip. Likewise, the loaded nachos with pepper


jack cheese sauce and avocado ranch, were
almost too messy to eat. It might do better as
a dip with chips on the side.
The fried pickle chips had a perfectly
crunchy ranch-seasoned panko coating, but
they shouldnt be tried without a dip or two
(go for the Greek ranch), since unadorned
they lacked the expected briny burst of
pickle flavor. While there are tasty options,
something lighter would be a welcome
addition to the appetizer menu.
MAINS WITH RANGE
Dont be afraid of the mains; everything
on the menu is not totally dominated
by ranch sauce. The Ranched St. Louis
Gerber worked particularly well: a hot

open-faced ham and Provel sandwich


with garlic ranch on the bread instead
of the usual garlic butter. The chicken
ranch gyro overflowed with fresh tomato
and cucumber and included just a hint of
the advertised Greek ranch.
The stout half-pound garlic ranch
burger arrived juicy with a nice,
medium-pink center and topped with
cheese, lettuce, onions and tomato. I
chose a neutral American from the many
cheese options to avoid distracting from
the garlic ranch. Ranch smoked pulled
pork was piled on a bun with barbecue
ranch slaw. The saucy sandwich tasted
more like barbecue than ranch and
the slaw was a smart addition, cutting
through the rich sweetness of the pork
with a fresh crunch.

Adding lighter options would improve


Twisted Ranchs standing as a lunch spot.
The appetizers especially are best suited for
bar hoppers looking for serious, hangoverpreventing food. Ordered at lunch, they pose
the risk of an accidental afternoon office nap.
While Twisted Ranch doesnt stand out much
from other St. Louis bar and grills, its a fine
place to stop in if you live or work in the area.

3
November 2015

November 2015

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November 2015

nightlife

reviews

Manchester public house

NIGHTLIFE

BY MATT BERKLEY | PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

reasonable pints (all less than $7). Along


with local favorites like Civil Life, outof-state and import brews like Scrimshaw
and Bells regularly
slide across the
bar frothy, full
Manchester
and never flat on
Public House
numerous visits.
6655 Manchester Ave.,
The hard liquor
St. Louis, 314.899.9111,
is adequate, but
manchesterpublichouse.com
lackluster cocktails
are certainly not
the draw here. Ive had more satisfying
Gin and Tonics out of my kitchen, but
its hard to be disappointed in a bar that
serves 16-ounce cans of Stag and Pabst
Blue Ribbon for only $3.
Manchesters food menu boasts meaty,
smoked options and quirky little
treats like Pork Wellington Bites.
Dogtown is St. Louis unofficial burger
town, and the pubs Hellraiser Burger,
complete with fried jalapenos, Sriracha
bacon and pepper jack cheese, stood up
to any Ive had in the neighborhood.
Another winner was the Scotch egg, a
hard-boiled egg wrapped in fennel-heavy
sausage and a feathery-light breading. It
paired flawlessly with the accompanying
dollop of grainy mustard sauce. The
brisket nachos were also well worth the
calories homemade corn tortilla chips
remained crispy even after being doused
in a healthy portion of beef brisket, thick
and smoky-sweet vegetarian chili and
Chihuahua cheese.

he name Manchester Public House


might bring to mind a kitschy, fauxBritish bar teeming with soccer
paraphernalia, but its actually a stylish and
reserved pub tucked away on the southern
edge of Franz Park and Dogtown.
Though theres a heavy Sunday brunch
and NFL crowd, most nights Manchester
Public House is full of casually dressed
regulars blowing the froth off a few pints
of Guinness while Motown and 70s and
80s pop hits fill the air. The tempo picks
up on weekend nights when a decidedly
younger crowd goes strong until closing
at 1:30 a.m. For the most part though,
Manchester remains an old-school,
unpretentious corner pub.

November 2015

Belly up to the long wooden bar


dominating the cozy, dark brick main
room or relax in one of the deep leather
booths lining the opposite wall. Those
seeking a little more privacy can head to a
handful of tables and a grand, old tufted
leather chesterfield sofa facing a fireplace
in the back room. The comfortable and
inviting pub is complemented by a small
patio with worn picnic tables where lonely
burning cigars wait for their owners to
return from the bar with freshened drinks.
Its a pub, so stick with the beer. The
menu features roughly 20 impressive pours
in a wide range of styles. A tip of the cap
to the management, which includes halfpint options (around $3) with already

ORDER IT:
Manchester
Public House

Snack on a Scotch egg,


which is hard-boiled,
wrapped in fennel-heavy
sausage and a featherylight breading.

However, dont expect anything special


from the pulled pork quesadillas or
fish tacos. The former are bland and
disappointing, and the latter pull off the
difficult task of being incredibly overseasoned and boring at the same time.
Minus a few hiccups, the appetizer- and
sandwich-heavy menu makes a great pub
meal or late-night snack, as the kitchen is
open until 11:30 p.m. most nights.
Falling in line with the string of great new
bars redefining Dogtown, Manchester
Public House has a level of service and
style embedded so deeply that everything
seems effortless. Its a solid neighborhood
pub or casual date spot where a quick bite
can turn into a long, enjoyable evening in a
comfortable space.

From left, pints of Civil


Life American brown
ale and import brew
Scrimshaw Pilsner.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 23

24 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

Check out
Glenn Bardgett's
pick for a Chilean
white

dine

& drink

ILLUSTRATIONS BY VIDHYA NAGARAJAN

A SEAT AT THE BAR / Five experts tell us what to sip, stir and shake
Its rare for me to
discover a white wine
grape I never knew
existed, especially one
grown on vines more than
a century old. Yet Ive
just met sauvignon gris.
GLENN BARDGETT
Only 300 cases of the
Member of the Missouri Wine
perfumed, weighty 2014
and Grape Board and wine
Casa Silva Sauvignon
director at Annie Gunns
Gris were imported
from Chile. A natural,
more intense mutation
of sauvignon blanc, the wine has enough flavor,
nose and character to make it an exciting
addition to St. Louis wine scene. At a scant $20,
oysters Rockefeller never paired so well.
November 2015

Everything old is new again,


including sloe gin, a British
liqueur traditionally made with
sloe berries (a small, tart cousin
of plums) steeped in gin. The
only true sloe gin available in
Missouri is Haymans, which uses
an aromatic London dry gin base.
TED AND JAMIE
Those across the Mississippi
KILGORE
can look for Plymouth sloe gin,
USBG, B.A.R. Ready, BarSmart
which is excellent mixed with
and co-owners/bartenders at
Planters House
club soda or simply served neat.
Try it out in a Sloe Gin Fizz, too,
by combining 2 ounces sloe gin,
1 ounce fresh lemon juice, ounce simple syrup and 1
egg white. Shake vigorously with ice, fine-strain into a
highball glass and top with club soda.

Every fall, American


breweries compete
for glory at The Great
American Beer Festival
in Denver, and several of
this years winners are
available in town, like
CORY AND
Firestone Walkers Double
KAREN KING
Barrel Ale. The biscuity
Co-owners at Side Project
British pale ale with a
Brewing and The Side
hint of vanilla won gold
Project Cellar
in the ordinary or special
bitter category. And dont
miss the lone St. Louis gold medalist, Perennial
Savant Blanc, which won for American-style sour
ales. Aged with chardonel grapes, it drinks like a
sparkling wine. The 2015 batch debuts soon.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 25

26 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

COCKTAILS

N E V E R S AY
NEVER

BY K R I S T I N S C H U LT Z

Think gin tastes like a Christmas tree? Vowed


never again after too many rum and cokes at your
cousins wedding? Dont let a bad experience keep
you from enjoying the six base spirits gin, vodka,
brandy, tequila, whiskey and rum in all their
stirred and shaken glory. Reconsider what you
swore off with these local concoctions.

Kentucky Coffee
Whiskey is so much more than Jack and coke. This
cocktail requires several posh tricks to assemble
including fire and an espresso machine but its worth the
wait. The resulting concoction has a briskly aromatic nose
from the cinnamon and cayenne floated atop vanilla beanwhipped cream. Beneath the frothy crown is a heated
blend of Buffalo Trace bourbon, cold-brew coffee and
caramelized brown sugar. Small Batch Whiskey & Fare,
3001 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.380.2040, smallbatchstl.com

Kentucky Coffee
at Small Batch
Whiskey & Fare

Pine Revival
Drinking bad gin is a little like licking the side of a
spruce. But good gin mixed with the right ingredients
may just convert you. Enter the Pine Revival, a vigorously
shaken blend of Uncle Vals fragrant botanical gin, Lillet
Blanc, Clockwork Orange liqueur, lemon juice and
cardamom bitters. Served in an absinthe-rinsed glass,
its a sophisticated sip that is at once soft, piney, floral
and dry. The Gin Room, 3200 S. Grand Blvd., St. Louis,
314.771.3411, natashasginroom.com

PHOTO BY MEERA NAGARAJAN

Capirotazo
Banish the memory of your tequila-shooting youth
and embrace agave-spirited adulthood. Tres Agaves
Reposado tequilas warm vanilla notes get along
famously with the assertive combo of Dumante espresso
liqueur, Cocchi Barolo Chinato, a dash of allspice dram
and Angostura bitters. The bar shakes it all up with a
whole egg for a creamy, froth-topped finish. But the
flavor train doesnt stop there. A fresh black pepper
garnish lingers on the palate to round out this elegant
sipper. Frazers Restaurant & Lounge, 1811 Pestalozzi St.,
St. Louis, 317.773.8646, frazersgoodeats.com

Backseat Freestyle
You dont need leather-bound books and a cigar
collection to enjoy brandy. Tastes seasonal cocktail
November 2015

shakes up cranberry-infused cognac with an egg


white, lemon juice, cinnamon syrup and whiskey
barrel-aged bitters, garnished with a rosemary
sprig. This creamy drink starts out spicy on the
nose, and then warm cinnamon notes yield to a
subtle cranberry tartness and cheery citrus finish.
Brandy is no longer just a stuffy libation for GreatUncle Archibald. Taste, 4584 Laclede Ave., St. Louis,
314.631.1200, tastebarstl.com

My Basic Girl
Dont give vodka the cold shoulder. Perhaps the most
basic of the base spirits, vodka has few defining flavor
notes, making it a blank canvas for bold, full flavors
like pumpkin spice. London Vodka, StillJoy Vienna
Roast liqueur and house-made pumpkin-spiced simple

syrup are shaken with ice and strained. With a crispy,


delicate meringue cookie floating on top, its a fruity,
spiced autumnal treat. Its also off-menu, so order it by
name. Element, 1419 Carroll St., St. Louis, 314.241.1674,
elementstl.com

Rum Collins
Sometimes, all it takes to erase the ghosts of rum and
cokes past is a simple revision of a classic recipe. The
rum Collins is a favorite in Puerto Rico, and its not
hard to see why. The effervescent first sip, courtesy
of fresh lemon juice and a club soda topper, mellows
into a slightly sweet, vanilla-hinted finish from Don Q
Anejo Puerto Rican rum and simple syrup. BCs Kitchen,
11 Meadows Circle Drive No. 400, Lake St. Louis,
636.542.9090, billcardwell.com
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 27

VEGETIZE IT

Tajine
BY KELLIE HYNES | PHOTOS BY CARMEN TROESSER

s anyone who admits to eating escargot knows,


an elegant name transforms pedestrian food. Its
why Champagne is more appetizing than rotten
grape juice and tea time is more socially acceptable than
afternoon Oreo bingeing. So when my favorite carnivores
(that is, my husband and three kiddos) rolled their eyes
at the concept of a meatless autumn stew, I knew I didnt
need better ingredients. I needed better marketing.

28

28 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

Tajine (tah-zheen) is a Moroccan stew


cooked and served in a two-piece,
earthenware dish which, conveniently,
is also called a tajine. Traditional touajen
(the fancy plural form of tajine) are slowcooked kaleidoscopes of meat or fish,
vegetables, fruit and spices that warm all
the senses. Hoping a vegetarian stew by
another name would soften the hearts
of my meat-loving family members, I
visited Baida Moroccan Restaurant on
South Grand Boulevard to learn the
secrets of tajine cuisine.
Chef-owner Assia Meskine and
her husband and co-owner, Abder
Meskine, explained how the tajines
conical lid is designed to return
moisture to the meat in their bestselling chicken and lamb stews. The
lid shape also enhances the flavors in
their vegan tajine, which is made with
generous hunks of zucchini, butternut
squash, green peas, garbanzo beans,
tomatoes and spices. As an aside,
Abder mentioned that Moroccans
historically called vegetarian touajen
Berber touajen after the Berber
people, who often couldnt afford meat
for their meals. This gave me pause
another reminder that on my side
of the world, a plant-based diet is a
privilege, not an economic necessity.
For my own vegetarian tajine, Assia
advised cutting the vegetables into
large chunks, so their texture didnt
disintegrate as they roasted in the
tajine. She also suggested sauteing the
vegetables in a skillet before roasting,
since a clay pot will crack if its placed
on a stovetop burner without a heat
diffuser. The vessel can also crack if its

November 2015

placed in a preheated oven, so turn on


the heat after the tajine is inside. In
other words, this is the one time you
can haphazardly chop your veggies,
forget to turn on the oven and still do
everything right.
I sauteed halved shallots and chunks
of bell peppers with garlic and ginger,
seasoning them with paprika, cayenne
pepper and my new favorite spice mix,
ras al-hanout. Its a North African spice
blend that smells like mulled cider
on a sharp winter night. If you dont
want to buy a spice just for this recipe,
you can approximate with dashes of
ground cinnamon, cumin and cloves.
I poured the mixture into my tajine,
added sweet potato and roasted the
whole shebang. After 30 minutes, the
shallots and peppers were roasted to al
dente perfection, but my sweet potatoes
were still hard as rocks. Assia suggested
parboiling the potatoes for 10 minutes
before adding them to the tajine, but I
found that microwaving them in a little
vegetable broth achieved the same result
with less effort and more flavor.
In the end, my tajine was more than
a meatless stew. It was a colorful,
spicy-sweet and filling international
experience.

SWEET POTATO
TAJINE
8 SERVINGS

2 tsp. minced garlic


1 tsp. grated ginger
2 Tbsp. honey or brown sugar
2 tsp. ras al-hanout
1 tsp. turmeric
tsp. cayenne pepper
tsp. kosher salt
tsp. paprika
1 14.5-oz. can diced tomatoes,
drained
1 15-oz. can garbanzo beans, drained
and rinsed
cup pomegranate seeds
2 Tbsp. chopped cilantro
4 cups prepared couscous
Remove enough oven racks to make
room for the covered tajine.
Place the sweet potato chunks
in a microwave-safe dish with
cup vegetable broth. Cover
and microwave on high until
the potatoes begin to soften,
approximately 4 minutes. Set aside.
Melt the ghee in a large skillet over
medium-high heat. Add the shallots
and saute 1 minute. Add the bell
peppers and saute 4 minutes, until
the shallots and peppers start to
brown. Lower the heat to medium,
add the garlic and ginger and
saute another 30 seconds, until
fragrant. Add the honey, ras alhanout, turmeric, cayenne pepper,
salt and paprika, stirring to coat the
vegetables evenly.
Pour the vegetable mixture and any

pan drippings into an 11-inch tajine


base. Layer the sweet potato chunks
on top of the vegetables, followed
by the tomatoes and garbanzo
beans. Pour the remaining 1 cups
vegetable broth over the top. Place
the tajine lid on the base and slide
the dish into the cold oven.
Heat the oven to 300 degrees. Bake
until the shallots and sweet potatoes
are fork-tender, about 30 minutes.
Serve in the tajine, garnished with
pomegranate seeds and cilantro.
Serve with prepared couscous on
the side.

Ready to board the


Marrakesh Express to
Moroccan cuisine? These
will get you started.
11-inch terra-cotta
tajine
$20. World Market, 24
Brentwood Promenade
Court, Brentwood,
314.918.7800; 238 THF
Blvd., Chesterfield,
636.728.0011,
worldmarket.com
Ras al-hanout
spice mix
$3. Global Foods
Market, 421 N.
Kirkwood Road,
Kirkwood, 314.835.1112,
globalfoodsmarket.com

1 lb. sweet potato, peeled and cut into


1-inch chunks
1 cups vegetable broth, divided
2 Tbsp. ghee or olive oil
6 small shallots, peeled and halved
crosswise
1 red bell pepper, seeded and cut into
1-inch chunks
1 yellow bell pepper, seeded and cut
into 1-inch chunks

29

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 29

30 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

MAKE
THIS
WARM GARLIC SOUP
ACTIVE TIME: 10 MINUTES

MAKE THIS
This quick-to-make, comforting soup will fill your belly and protect
you from any vampires hanging around after Halloween. Pour 3
cups chicken stock into a large, microwave-safe bowl and microwave on high for 3
minutes. In a medium pot over medium-high heat, saute cup minced yellow onion in 2
tablespoons olive oil until translucent, about 3 minutes. Lower the heat to medium, add
12 cloves chopped garlic (a heaping cup) and saute 2 to 3 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the warm broth and bring to a boil over high heat. Add 1 cup diced day-old bread,
season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, cover and cook 30
seconds. Remove from heat and use an immersion blender or work in batches in a
blender to puree the soup until smooth. Garnish with chopped green onions. Dee Ryan

Gild the lily: Make a quick herbinfused oil in a food processor


using 1 part fresh herbs (try
basil, oregano and parsley) to
2 parts olive oil. Puree until
smooth and fine-strain through
a coffee filter. Drizzle onto the
soup before serving.

PHOTO BY GREG RANNELLS

If you enjoy Dee Ryans quick and easy


recipes in Make This, dont miss
her online column, Just Five. Go to
samg.bz/saucejust5 to find recipes
that you can whip up in a jiffy and
require just five key ingredients.

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 31

American Classics
YOU SHOULD KNOW HOW TO MAKE

Its time to revive some old-school American classics. If Grandma didnt teach you
right, keep reading for help from St. Louis pros. From Caesar salad to baked ham
and mashed potatoes, these seven recipes will never go out of style.

MATT BERKLEY, HEATHER HUGHES, REBECCA KOENIG, MEERA NAGARAJAN,


DEE RYAN AND LAUREN SCHUMACKER // PHOTOS BY GREG RANNELLS

32 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

classic
old-fashioned

A classic Old-Fashioned is the granddaddy of whiskey cocktails. The simple, timehonored trio of whiskey, bitters and sugar is best complemented by the natural
sweetness of cherry and fresh orange. Dustin Parres, corporate bar manager at Gamlin
Whiskey House, contended that technique makes the Old-Fashioned so special
something often ignored by bartenders who slap the drink together using bottled juices
and bland, mass-produced cherries. If they arent breaking out a muddler, you know
that theyre doing it wrong, Parres said. Check out his take on the classic. M.B.

R E C I P E O N P. 3 9

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 33

For a charred take on a


Caesar salad, cut hearts of
romaine in half lengthwise
and drizzle with olive oil.
Briefly grill over high heat
until the romaine just wilts
and chars slightly. Serve
whole, drizzled with Caesar
salad dressing.

caesar
salad
R E C I P E O N P. 3 9

34 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Few salads are more iconic than Caesar. We turned to chef Kier
Puckett at Mike Shannons Steaks & Seafood for his take on this
steakhouse classic. Step one: Put down that bottled dressing. This
umami-packed DIY version uses raw egg yolks, white anchovy fillets,
roasted garlic and cold olive oil Pucketts secret to a thick, rich
dressing. Step two: Give the emperor of salads a proper throne. Add
the dressing to a nonreactive wooden or glass serving bowl, then
toss with crisp romaine. Hail, Caesar! L.S.

Natural Wood Salad


Bowls, $125 to $150.
Narcise, narcise.net
November 2015

spaghetti
and

meatballs
R E C I P E S O N P. 4 1

Randolfis chef-owner Mike


Randolph makes light,
airy meatballs loaded
with flavor. Here, four tips
from the pro for magical
meatballs at home. M.N.

Ditch the breadcrumbs. Airy


meatballs start with high-quality
bread. Cube a day-old artisanal
loaf and soak it in buttermilk;
this will help bind the mixture
and keep it moist. Sturdy bread
lends itself to a softer, fluffier
meatball, and buttermilk is a
great way to add acid to the
meat, which means better flavor
in the finished product.
Bigger is better. If you want a

light, soft texture, make a couple


large meatballs instead of
dozens of little ones. Theyre less
likely to dry out during cooking,
and its less work for you.

You dont boil a steak; dont


boil meatballs. The best way to

cook meatballs is to season well,


sear, add a simple tomato puree
and braise two to three hours in
a 225-degree oven.

Dont neglect the noodles.

Spaghetti and meatballs is


mostly spaghetti. For a new
take on the classic, toss al dente
pasta in a pan with a generous
glug of olive oil, your favorite
herbs, a splash of pasta water
and a sprinkle of Parmesan. Its
a great accompaniment to the
meat and a simple alternative to
the expected tomato sauce.

November 2015

Make ho-hum store-bought


tomato sauce sing with help
from Stellina chef-owner Jamey
Tochtrop: Pour 3 cups dry red
wine in a saucepan and add 6
cloves roughly chopped garlic, 2
roughly chopped large shallots,
1 small roughly chopped carrot
and 6 to 8 thyme sprigs. Slowly
reduce by half over low heat
until thick and syrupy. Strain out
the solids, then fold the desired
amount into store-bought
tomato sauce for added depth
and complexity.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE
MAGAZINE I 35

baked

ham
If your holiday isnt complete without a beautiful
glazed ham, call your butcher shop this year and
place an order for uncooked country ham instead
of a bagged, precooked option. Theyre a bit more
work, so we turned to Juniper chef-owner John
Perkins to guide us through the days of soaking,
baking and glazing to make a proper country ham
worth the wait. D.R.

36 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

If you prefer the ease of a


precooked ham, look for brands like
Fricks Quality Meats, available at
most area grocery stores. Be sure to
score a precooked ham before you
glaze and bake it.

country ham 101


Soak

Dont freak out, but when you remove the


ham from the packaging, it might have some
mold on it. Like an aged cheese, a little mold
is normal. Place the ham in a large pot (or
new cooler) and cover it with cold water it
has to soak at least 24 to 48 hours. Change
the water every eight hours or so to properly
leach the salt from the ham. After 12 to 24
hours, remove it and scrape off any mold
with a knife. Rinse the ham, place it back into
the pot and cover with fresh water to soak
another 24 hours, changing the water every
eight hours.

Bake

After soaking, preheat the oven to 300


degrees. Rinse the ham thoroughly and place
it on a rack in a roasting pan filled with 1 to
2 inches of water and 1 roughly chopped
onion. Tent the ham tightly with foil and
bake 20 minutes per pound until the internal
temperature reaches 163 degrees. Let the
ham rest at room temperature 1 hour, then
remove as much of the skin as you can. Start
at the hock (the small end) and trim away
the tough outer skin, leaving as much fat as
possible on the ham. (There is no need to
score before you glaze since the skin has
been removed.)

Glaze

Now its time to glaze. Preheat the oven to 325


degrees, baste the ham with your preferred
glaze (recipes on p. 41), and bake 30 minutes,
basting every 10 minutes. Remove from oven
and continue to baste as it cools.

Serve

Save that bone to add depth to a pot


of greens or beans. Once completely
cool, wrap the bone tightly in two
layers of plastic wrap and one layer
of foil, then toss it in the freezer.
Bone-in, uncooked country ham ($4
per pound) is available at Kenricks
Meat Market and Catering, 4324
Weber Road, St. Louis, 314.632.2440,
kenricks.com.

November 2015

Ham is tastiest served slightly warm or at


room temperature. To present the ham,
first cut a slice from the bottom to make
a flat base. Start about 2 inches from the
hock and make a cut straight through to the
bone. From there, make thin parallel cuts
perpendicular to the bone. To release the
slices, cut parallel along the bone from the
small end. Wham, bam, thank you, ham.

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 37

mashed
potatoes
and

gravy

Making your potatoes ahead of


time? Hold them up to 4 hours
in a slow cooker on low. Pour 2
tablespoons melted butter and
cup warm milk into the slow
cooker insert before adding the
mashed potatoes, then cover.
Stir well before serving.

38 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

Nothing says love like a big bowl of mashed potatoes and gravy. Every
family has its favorite rendition of this classic dish, and even the pros
disagree about some things. Kevin Nashan, chef-owner of Peacemaker
Lobster & Crab Co. and Sidney Street Cafe, prefers a rough mash
of partially peeled, small red potatoes or fingerlings. Gerard Craft,
chef-owner of the Niche Food Group, goes for a smooth puree of
russet potatoes. Nashan seasons his water; Craft doesnt. But lumpy or
whipped, fingerlings or russets, milk or cream, there are some things all
good mashers can agree upon. D.R.

6 steps to the
perfect mash
Cut about 3 pounds potatoes (such
as russet, fingerling or small red
potatoes) into equal 1 - to 2-inch
cubes.
Place those spuds in a very large pot
of cold water and give them room to
dance with 1 inch of water above them.
Set the pot over medium-high heat.
Put a fork in it. Three pounds of
potatoes cooked over medium-high
take about 30 to 35 minutes. When a
fork goes in easily or breaks the potato,
drain immediately. If the potatoes fight
back, continue to cook, checking every
5 minutes. Pay attention: Overcooked
potatoes make a soupy mash.
Burn calories while you mash. The
paddle attachment on a stand
mixer works, but it is easy to go
from perfection to glue when using
appliances. Keep it old-school with a
wire masher and leave some lumps,
if youre into that. If you like a silkysmooth texture, use a potato ricer.
Use about 1 stick melted butter and
cup milk, half-and-half or cream

for every 3 pounds potatoes. Always


warm the butter and liquid before
adding them.
Dont be bland. Add salt and white
pepper to taste start with 1 teaspoon
salt and a couple grinds of pepper
and go from there. Other additions
may include roasted garlic, creme
fraiche or sour cream and, of course,
cheese. Try mascarpone, goat cheese,
cheddar or Parmesan. You can also
add a little chicken or beef stock
diluted in warm milk.
November 2015

ham gravy
Traditionally, gravy is built from the pan
drippings of roasted meat. So what do
you do when baked ham, the drippings
from which will be a sugary glaze, is on
the menu? More importantly, how do
you avoid lumpy gravy a punishable
crime in most homes? The trick is to
start with a roux.
Nashan suggested making the roux
with a fat-rich slice of precooked
ham about the size of a matchbook.
Dice it up, then sear it in a large
saucepan over medium-low heat
until browned, 3 to 5 minutes. Add
1 tablespoon butter, then stir in 4
chopped fresh sage leaves and 1
tablespoon minced shallot. Cook 1
minute, stirring occasionally, then
remove the ham and set aside. Stir
in 3 more tablespoons butter until
melted, then whisk in 6 tablespoons
all-purpose flour and cook until
golden, 3 to 4 minutes, stirring
constantly. The roux should be the
consistency of custard. If its thin,
add a bit more flour.
To finish the gravy, whisk in cup
room-temperature dry white wine.
The roux will likely seize a bit, so
dont worry if it rolls into a ball.
Stir in 1 cups room temperature
pork stock, whisking constantly. As
you whisk, the roux will turn into
gravy in 3 to 5 minutes. For the
smoothest gravy, pour it through a
fine-mesh sieve, pressing solids with
the back of a spoon, or for more
texture, stir the reserved ham into
gravy.
Pork stock ($6 per quart)is
available at Truffles Butchery, 9202
Clayton Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100,
todayattruffles.com

recipes
OLD-FASHIONED
Courtesy of Gamlin Whiskey Houses
Dustin Parres
1 SERVING

3 Luxardo maraschino cherries, divided


2 small orange slices, divided
1 Demerara sugar cube
A few dashes Angostura bitters
2 oz. Henry McKenna bottled-in-bond
bourbon
oz. Dolin Blanc vermouth

In a pint glass or shaker, muddle


together 2 cherries, 1 orange slice,
the sugar cube and bitters. Pour in
the bourbon and the vermouth. Add
a few ice cubes, cover and shake.
Pour through a fine-mesh sieve into
an Old-Fashioned glass, snifter
or rocks glass filled with large ice
cubes. Garnish with the remaining
cherry and orange slice.

CAESAR SALAD
Courtesy of Mike Shannons Steaks &
Seafoods Kier Puckett
4 SERVINGS
2 to 4 slices grilled baguette, plus more
for serving
4 white anchovy fillets,* coarsely
chopped
3 roasted garlic cloves
2 egg yolks
cup grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
1 tsp. Dijon mustard
Dash Worcestershire sauce
cup cold olive oil
Kosher salt and freshly ground black
pepper, to taste
6 heads romaine lettuce, chopped
In the bowl of a food processor, pulse
the baguette slices to create about
cup breadcrumbs. Add the anchovy
fillets, garlic, egg yolks, ParmigianoReggiano, lemon juice, mustard and
Worcestershire and puree until well
blended. With the machine running,
add the oil in a slow stream to
Continued on p. 41
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 39

chicken and

dumplings

Chris Vomund, Herbies Vintage 72 executive chef, has taken


traditional chicken and dumplings in some surprising flavor
directions. Start with the classic recipe, then dream up your own
flavor combinations or try one of Vomunds ideas below. R.K.

R E C I P E O N P. 4 1

Shake up the traditional chicken


and dumplings and spike the
broth with different flavors.
40 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

miso +
mushrooms

tomatoes,
zucchini, yellow
squash + red wine

ginger +
lemongrass

juniper +
marjoram

November 2015

emulsify. Season to taste with salt and


pepper.
Pour the dressing into a serving bowl.
Add the romaine and toss to coat.
Serve with grilled baguette slices.
*Available at Straubs, 8262 Forsyth
Blvd., Clayton, 314.725.2121,
straubs.com

CHICKEN AND
DUMPLINGS
Adapted from a recipe by
Herbies Vintage 72s Chris Vomund
4 SERVINGS
cup olive oil
4 Tbsp. white wine vinegar, divided
2 lbs. boneless, skin-on chicken thighs*
2 Tbsp. butter
2 carrots, sliced
2 large celery ribs, sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 small onion, diced
2 tsp. dried rosemary, divided
2 tsp. dried sage, divided
2 tsp. dried thyme, divided
2 cups dry white wine
6 cups chicken stock
2 cups flour, divided, plus more for
dusting
1 tsp. kosher salt, divided
cup water
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
In a large mixing bowl, whisk
together the olive oil and 2
tablespoons vinegar. Add the chicken
thighs and toss to coat. Cover and
refrigerate overnight.
In a large Dutch oven over
medium-high heat, melt the butter.
Meanwhile, pat the chicken dry with
paper towels. Cook the chicken skinside down until browned and the fat
renders, 10 to 15 minutes. Flip the
chicken and cook another 5 minutes,
then transfer to a cutting board. Pour
all but 1 tablespoon pan drippings
into a measuring cup. It should total
about cup.
Add the carrots, celery, garlic and
onion to the Dutch oven over medium
heat and cover, stirring occasionally,
until the vegetables are tender,
about 10 minutes. Add 1 teaspoon
rosemary, 1 teaspoon sage and
1 teaspoon thyme and stir about
30 seconds. Increase heat to high,
November 2015

add the wine and the remaining


2 tablespoons vinegar and boil 5
minutes. Add the chicken stock and
return to a boil, then decrease the
heat to medium-low and simmer 30
minutes to reduce.
Meanwhile, prepare the dumpling
dough: On a clean work surface,
combine 2 cups flour and 1 teaspoon
salt with your hands. Gather the flour
into a mound and make a well in the
center. Slowly add the water, mixing
with your hand until a dough starts to
form. Knead the dough a few times to
form a ball, but do not overwork.
Lightly sprinkle the work surface
and a rolling pin with flour. Roll the
dough to 18 - to -inch thickness and
sprinkle with the remaining 1 teaspoon
rosemary, 1 teaspoon sage and 1
teaspoon thyme. Fold the dough in
half, then roll out again to 18 - to -inch
thickness. Use a sharp knife to slice the
dough into 1-inch pieces. Set aside.
In a small saucepan over low heat,
prepare a roux by whisking together
the reserved cup pan drippings
and the remaining cup flour until
well blended. Cook about 5 minutes,
whisking frequently.
Pour the roux into the Dutch oven
and bring to a boil over high heat.
Meanwhile, cut the chicken into
1-inch chunks. Stir in the chicken,
pepper and the remaining
teaspoon salt, then add the dumpling
dough to the stew, making sure the
dough pieces dont touch. Gently
shake the Dutch oven to coat the
dumplings in liquid. Return to a boil,
then reduce heat to medium-low,
cover and simmer 30 minutes, gently
shaking the Dutch oven occasionally.
*Ask your butcher to debone skin-on
chicken thighs, but save the bones to
make stock.

MEATBALLS
Courtesy of Randolfis Mike Randolph
4 TO 6 SERVINGS
6 oz. artisanal day-old white bread, cut
into -inch cubes (about 3 cups)
1 cups buttermilk
1 lbs. ground lamb
1 lbs. ground pork
1 egg
2 tsp. chopped fresh garlic

2 tsp. lemon zest


2 tsp. kosher salt
1 tsp. chopped fresh rosemary
1 tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. red pepper flakes
tsp. chopped fresh thyme
tsp. fennel pollen*
1 Tbsp. olive oil
1 14.5-oz. can whole peeled San
Marzano tomatoes, pureed
Spaghetti with Herbs and Cheese
(recipe follows)
Finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
Preheat the oven to 225 degrees.
In a large bowl, soak the bread in
the buttermilk about 20 minutes.
Add pound lamb and pound
pork to the bread mixture and mix
until well incorporated. Add the
remaining lamb, the remaining pork,
the egg, garlic, lemon zest, salt,
rosemary, black pepper, red pepper
flakes, thyme and fennel pollen and
mix well. Use your hands to form
the meat mixture into baseball-sized
meatballs, 6- to 8-ounces each.
In a large skillet, heat the oil over
medium-high heat. Working in
batches, brown the meatballs, turning
every few minutes to sear all sides,
about 10 minutes. Place the meatballs
in a 9-by-13-inch glass baking dish.
Pour the tomato puree into the skillet
over medium-high heat. Scrape any
browned bits from the bottom of pan
with a wooden spoon. Pour the sauce
over the meatballs.
Bake 2 hours. Serve over spaghetti.
Garnish with Parmigiano-Reggiano.
*Available at Larder & Cupboard,
7310 Manchester Road,
Maplewood, 314.300.8995,
larderandcupboard.com

SPAGHETTI WITH
HERBS AND CHEESE
Courtesy of Randolfis Mike Randolph
4 SERVINGS
1 lb. dried spaghetti
cup olive oil
4 garlic cloves, minced
2 Tbsp. minced shallot
1 cup grated Parmesan
3 Tbsp. chopped fresh parsley
tsp. red pepper flakes
4 tsp. lemon juice

Salt and freshly ground black pepper,


to taste

Bring a large pot of salted water to boil


over high heat. Add the spaghetti and
cook until just shy of al dente, 6 to 7
minutes. Reserve 2 cups pasta water,
then drain the spaghetti and set aside.
Return the pot to the stove over
medium heat and add the oil. Add
the garlic and shallot and cook 2
to 3 minutes, until translucent. Add
the spaghetti, Parmesan, parsley,
red pepper flakes and 1 cup pasta
cooking water. Toss until the spaghetti
is cooked to al dente and the sauce
coats the pasta, about 5 minutes. Add
more pasta cooking water as needed
if the sauce is too thick. Stir in lemon
juice and salt and pepper to taste.

GINGER ALE
HAM GLAZE
Adapted from a recipe by
Junipers John Perkins
1 CUP
1 cup Blenheims or Bruce Cost ginger
ale
cup brown sugar
2 Tbsp. sorghum or molasses
2 Tbsp. whole-grain Dijon mustard
In a saucepan over low heat,
combine all ingredients. Stirring
occasionally, simmer until slightly
thickened, about 15 minutes.

COLA HAM GLAZE


Adapted from a recipe by Dierbergs
School of Cookings Marianne Moore
1 CUP
1 cup brown sugar
1 cup cola
cup maple syrup
2 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp. whole-grain mustard
tsp. ground cloves
tsp. ground ginger
In a saucepan over low heat,
combine all ingredients. Stirring
occasionally, simmer until slightly
thickened, about 15 minutes.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 41

fish and
chips

Nobody wants to go overboard after a few pints. Before waving


the white flag at the bar, order fish and chips to help with those
sea legs. Dont waste time with second-rate renditions of this
quintessential pub meal. Only hand-battered fish and house-made
chips were shipshape enough to be declared the best in town.
Andrew Barrett

Dressels Public House

Square One Brewery

Schlafly Tap Room

419 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis, 314.361.1060,


dresselspublichouse.com

1727 Park Ave., St. Louis, 314.231.2537,


squareonebrewery.com

2100 Locust St., St. Louis, 314.241.2337,


schlafly.com/tap-room

Fresh haddock is beer-battered and paired with housemade American chips the Brits would call crisps. The
fillet has just the right amount of batter and is equally
delicious on its own, with malt vinegar or the classic
house tartar sauce, which is smooth and tangy. Youll
want to savor every last crunchy chip, too. A slice of
lemon and house-made pickles complete this coalition
of flavors that can stand up to the stoutest beer.

Square Ones titanic chunk of grouper will fill you


to the gunwales. Its thick and meaty enough to
cause pleasant fried chicken flashbacks and comes
with bulky, crispy-yet-fluffy hand-cut fries. Be sure
to sink both into the sweet, mustard seed-studded
rmoulade. Pair this dish with the brewerys Park
Avenue pale ale or Bavarian weizen for a complete
taste brigade.

Hefeweizen batter embraces fresh pollock and is


accompanied by the familiar saltiness of classic, thincut fries. The pollock works best with a touch of malt
vinegar and a spritz of lemon juice, but the house
tartar sauce deserves a medal. Smooth with bold dill
pickle flavor, the fry-friendly sauce is sure to please
the legions. Choose an effervescent, bright beer for
the best pairing, like the Schlafly TIPA.

42 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

PHOTOS BY JONATHAN GAYMAN

SHORT LIST

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 43

stuff to do:

NOVEMBER
BY KRISTIN SCHULTZ

Cranksgiving
Nov. 8 8 a.m. to 1 p.m., City
Museum, 750 N. 16th St.,
St. Louis, bworks.org/
cranksgiving
Strap on a helmet,
grab a backpack and
get pedaling during
this years Cranksgiving. Choose routes from 5
to 25 miles and cycle to participating grocery
stores to buy canned goods and stock Food
Outreachs food pantry. Once youve finished
your ride and dropped off your donations,
refuel at the City Museum with eats from
Local Harvest, Sugarfire Smoke House and Pie
Oh My! Register online.

Cocktails and
Conversation
Nov. 20 7 to 8:30 p.m., Saint Louis
Art Museum, 1 Government Drive,
St. Louis, 314.721.0072, slam.org
Cool jazz and sleek, midcentury modern design
come together at the November installment
of Cocktails and Conversation. Jazz St. Louis
Phil Dunlap will lead an exploration of the
connections between jazz and 1950s design.
Soak up the music and knowledge while
sipping on classics like Manhattans, Tom
Collins or sidecars from the cash bar. Tickets
available online or in advance at the museum.

Farm Dinner
Nov. 20, 21 and 28 6 to 9:30 p.m.,
Claverach Farm, 568 S. Lewis Road,
Eureka, 636.938.7353,
claverachfarm.com
Sturdy winter greens,
sweet root vegetables
and roasted preserved
tomatoes and peppers take center stage in

44 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Claverach Farms late-autumn farm dinners.


In the colder months, the barn doors close,
and guests settle in for a three-hour meal
featuring comforting seasonal fare with
wine and beer, including the house dry ros.
Reservations available online.

Schlafly Winter
Market
Nov. 21 8:30 a.m. to
noon, 7260 Southwest Ave.,
Maplewood,
314.241.2337 x2,
schlaflyfarmersmarket.com
When the weather
turns cold and gray,
the farmers market at Schlafly Bottleworks
moves inside. Fall squash, greens, meats,
cheeses and sweets abound at the weekend
version of the warm-weather favorite just in
time for your Thanksgiving feast. Look for
offerings from vendors like Kakao Chocolate,
Ozark Forest Mushrooms, Baetje Farms and
more, then grab brunch in the Bottleworks
dining room.

Wine Diva
Weekend
Nov. 21 and 22 11 a.m. to
5 p.m., participating wineries,
800.398.1298,
rdvwinetrail.com
Pile your girlfriends
in the car and head
to Ste. Genevieve
County for a weekend of Missouri vino and
tasting plates. Drive the scenic, winding
roads to Charleville, Chaumette, Sainte
Genevieve, Twin Oaks, Cave Vineyard and
Sand Creek wineries and taste a signature
vintage paired with a savory or sweet snack.
Start at any participating winery and pick
November 2015

up your commemorative wine glass. Tickets


available online or by phone.

Edwardsville
Gastro Tour
Nov. 28 noon to 4 p.m.,
Cleveland-Heath, 106 N. Main St.,
Edwardsville, stlculinarytours.com
Taste the best of
Edwardsville on this
four-hour tour of area restaurants. ClevelandHeath will offer cocktails and appetizers to
start the afternoon, followed by wood-fired
pizza and craft beer at Peel. Hop next door to
Mike Shannons Grill for wine, steak and crab
cakes, and then swing back to Main Street for
dessert and a digestif at Cleveland-Heath.
Tickets available online.

sponsored events
Green Ball
Nov. 6 7 to 11 p.m., Moonrise Hotel, 6177 Delmar Blvd.,
St. Louis, 314.577.5118, mobot.org/greenball
Its a party for the planet. Enjoy local eats from
area vendors like Local Harvest, The Dam,
Nathalies, Pint Size Bakery, La Vista CSA and
The Wolf. An open bar will feature Boulevard
beer and Noboleis wine, and Square One
will be on hand with liquor samples. Show off
your upcycled and sustainable fashion sense
and enter the Green Fashion Contest. Tickets
available online or by phone; proceeds benefit
EarthWays Center of the Missouri Botanical
Garden, which supports sustainability
education.

Midtown Farmers Market


Nov. 7 and 14 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., 6655 Delmar Blvd.,
University City, 314.913.6632, Facebook: Midtown Farmers Market
Only two more regular markets remain in the
season for Midtown Farmers Market. Don
your scarf and scoop up fall produce and
fresh loaves from Red Guitar Bread. Grab
a bite from Hog Bitz, who will sell meaty
sandwiches and pickles.
November 2015

Tower Grove Farmers Market


Nov. 7 and 14 8 a.m. to 12:30 p.m., Tower Grove Park, 4256
Magnolia Ave., St. Louis, tgmarket.org
Around 50 vendors will be on hand for the
last two Tower Grove Farmers Markets of
the outdoor season. Stock up on fall produce
from vendors like Joe Ringhausen, Double
Star Farms and Biver Farms.

Farmers Formal2015
Nov. 14 6 to 10 p.m., The Sheet Metal Workers Grand Hall, 2319
Chouteau Ave., St. Louis, earthdancefarms.org/farmers-formal
Dance the night away at the Farmers
Formal to support the EarthDance organic
farm school in Ferguson. Chef Rex Hale
of The Restaurant at The Cheshire and
Russos Catering will use EarthDance Farm
produce to create delicious eats, and the
local chapter of Les Dames dEscoffier
and students from the Ferguson-Florissant
school district will present 50 pies for
dessert in a Pie Parade. Tickets available
online or at the door.

Whiskey in the Winter


Nov. 20 7 to 10:30 p.m., Hyatt Regency Downtown fourth floor
ballroom, 315 Chestnut St., St. Louis, whiskeyinthewinter.com
Keep winters chill at bay when you sip
on more than 275 whiskeys and whiskeybased cocktails at Whiskey in the Winter.
This annual event features bourbon, rye,
scotch, Irish, Tennessee, Canadian, Missouri,
Japanese and other international whiskeys,
as well as educational opportunities, guest
speakers and food stations. Tickets available
online.

Cheers to 35 Years
Through January 2016, participating locations,
operationfoodsearch.org
Join Operation Food Search in celebrating
35 years of feeding hungry St. Louisans.
Now through January 2016, purchase a glass
or bottle of OFS Wine at a participating
restaurant or retailer. Take a selfie enjoying
your selection, then post it to Facebook,
Twitter or Instagram with @OpFoodSearch
or @SauceMag and #Cheersto35Years. A
portion of the wine sale benefits OFS, and
youre entered in a drawing to win a case of
wine. A full list of participating restaurants is
available online.
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 45

WHAT I DO

Steven Fitzpatrick Smith

Some bars lure in customers with


trivia nights and live music. The
Royale brings in thirsty patrons
with public forums on local ballot
initiatives and live debates between
aldermanic candidates. (The killer
cocktail list doesnt hurt, either.)
Credit goes to owner Steven
Fitzpatrick Smith, who took over the
space 10 years ago. Smith explained
how he created and sustained a local
institution that invites public debate
between established neighbors,
college hipsters on a dime and maybe
even your mom. Catherine Klene

You describe The Royale as a public


house. What does that mean? Its a
place where you can meet with your
neighbors, and its an extension of
civilized behavior. Thats something
that gets me feeling very good about
where I live: knowing that I can sit
down with my neighbors and have
conversations with them.
The building that houses The
Royale has been a bar since before
Prohibition. What was your vision
when you took over in 2005? I
wanted a place that was respectable
enough that more people could go
to it than just a particular niche of

the market. I wanted anybody to feel


relatively comfortable here. Ill see
some kids that come in to drink, and
then the next thing you know, they
come in with their parents, and theyre
like, Look, this is where I hang out. Its
respectable. Im not a neer-do-well.
Why do you host public forums
and debates? These are the kinds
of things that I would go to. I like
(watching debates) at the library, but
if I can get a drink and maybe a bite
to eat, and I can convince three of
my friends to go with me, thats much
more likely to happen at a bar than
in the basement of a library. I enjoy
watching the baseball games as much
as anybody, but I still think there are
other things we can talk about.
You also host events themed around
history, like your Cuban Missile Crisis
Party. I love history. When I do (this
party), a lot of people learn about the
Cuban Missile Crisis. And they got
to dress up like it was 1962 and they
got to have all that fun, but then they
learned about something. I had some
great teachers when I was younger,
so I (see that as) an extension of what

I can do here. Not necessarily as


intense; Im not testing anybody. You
can just come in, enjoy the drinks and
check out who else is here.
Do you see these events as a public
service? Im trying to get people to
think a little bit more. You want to
think more about how to make things
better and you have to talk about
that with your neighbors. Bettereducated votes lead to a better
situation for everybody. We may not
agree on everything thats certainly
not the case. Im not looking to
necessarily sell them on one particular
thing. We all have our own views.
Ultimately, if more information is out
there, the better informed we are, the
better decisions we make, the better
city well have.
You are part-owner of Tick Tock
Tavern and involved in local real
estate and culinary tours. After 10
years, how involved are you in dayto-day operations? Im the operator.
I close out receipts. I fixed the
basement doors, and Im going to go
on the roof later and patch part of it.
If anybody needs to be thrown out
of here, Im the guy. Theres nothing
better than to be thrown out by the
actual owner of the place. Youve got
to make it look easy. Its actually a lot
of work, but its the small touches. I
rewired a bunch of lamps last night (to
hang at the bar), and I dont know if
anyone is going to notice, but I love it.

PHOTO BY ASHLEY GIESEKING

The Royale
Food & Spirits
3132 S. Kingshighway
Blvd., St. Louis,
314.772.3600,
theroyale.com

46 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

November 2015

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 47

November 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

guide to the

holidays
Holiday brunch
croissant French
toast casserole, p. 17

Guide to the Holidays 2015

FREE, GUIDE TO THE HOLIDAYS 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 1

2 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2015

Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 3

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Guide to the Holidays 2015

THE
STARTER
KITCHEN

3. Culinary herb
garden basket

Shopping for the budding


young chef with her first
kitchen? Dont impulsively buy
every knife, pan and gadget
you see. Think of this as a
beginners bucket list to food
greatness. Spencer Pernikoff

The Food Lab: Better


Home Cooking Through
Science
Say goodbye to The Joy of
Cooking and hello to J. Kenji
Lpez-Alts nearly 1,000-page
modern masterpiece. Not only is
this tome packed with recipes,
complete with step-by-step
pictures, but it also explains why
recipes and techniques work. This
is a must-read for serious culinary
scholars. $50. Left Bank Books,
399 N. Euclid Ave., St. Louis,
314.367.6731, left-bank.com

4. Truffles Butchery
classes

Barr-Co. Soap
Clean hands are a necessity for
good cooking, but which soap to
choose? Barr-Co.s locally made
natural soaps smell wonderful,
leave hands silky smooth and will
remind guests how classy the
cook is. $32. K. Hall Studio, 8416
Manchester Road, Brentwood,
314.963.3293, khalldesigns.com
2. Barr-Co.
soap

Culinary Herb
Garden Basket
Growing herbs is even easier
with a pre-seeded herb garden
basket. It includes Genovese
basil, chives, oregano, thyme
and Italian parsley, plus three
herb tools to add beautiful green
garnish to any dish. $50. Larder
& Cupboard, 7310 Manchester
Road, Maplewood, 314.300.8995,
larderandcupboard.com

Truffles Butchery
Classes
A two- to three-hour class with
the expert butchers at Truffles is
a win-win: Attendees learn the
basics of meat management and
take home half a hog. Does your
burgeoning chef want to learn
how to make sausages? Truffles
can teach that, too. Classes can
be tailored to any carnivores
dreams. $150 per person.
Truffles Butchery, 9202 Clayton
Road, Ladue, 314.567.9100,
todayattruffles.com

Facture Goods
Cutting board
Facture Goods, based out of
Columbia, Missouri, makes musthave cutting boards that are
both functional and beautiful.
Properly taken care of, these will
last for years. $40. Winslows
Home, 7213 Delmar Blvd.,
University City, 314.725.7559,
winslowshome.com
5. Facture Goods
cutting board

1. The Food Lab: Better


Home Cooking
Through Science

Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 5

6 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Guide to the Holidays 2015

2. Wild rose
liqueur

THE BOOZEHOUND

3. Scrappys
assorted bitters

Its science: People need to


drink something. The wise
ones, though, drink booze not
just for sustenance, but also
to improve their wit and their
moves on the dance floor. Take
the guesswork out of gifting
things to the companion who
always buys the next round.
Maggie Pearson

Monthly Wine Club


OK, we admit that wine seems
to taste better when someone
knowledgeable chooses it. The
folks at The Vino Gallery will
do that each month with a wine
club membership. Fill out a brief
wine survey about your friends
tastes and preferences, and they
set aside the bottles. Staying
hydrated was never so easy.
$35 and up. The Vino Gallery,
4701 McPherson Ave., St. Louis,
314.932.5665, thevinogallery.com

Wild rose liqueur


This Mediterranean specialty is
especially romantic when mixed
with gin, lemon juice and simple
syrup, or when added to a fresh
batch of sangria. Dont stop
there, though; drizzle on fresh
fruit salads, mix into homemade
ice cream or boil with stewed
fruit compotes for extra depth of
flavor. $10 and up. Vom Fass, 7314
Manchester Road, Maplewood,
314.932.5262, vomfassusa.com

Scrappys assorted bitters


A must for any cocktail
enthusiasts collection. Mix and
match, choosing from flavors like
celery, lavender and aromatic.
$20. Randalls Wine & Spirits,
1910 S. Jefferson Ave.,
St. Louis; 14201 Manchester Road,
Manchester, shoprandalls.com

4. Cut-crystal decanter

Cut-crystal glass
Remember those cut-crystal
decanters your parents dusted
off at parties, always full of
mysterious, exciting liquids?
Bellbottoms may be out, but
glassware never is. And unless
Grandmas attending the
shindig, they dont even have
to fill it with crme de menthe.
Prices vary. Jon Paul Design
& Collectables, 7014 Clayton
Road, Clayton, 314.645.2722,
jonpauldesigns.com

The Gentlemans
Companion
If your Secret Santa likes pisco,
get him a copy of the reissued
The Gentlemans Companion,
Charles Henry Bakers
1939 travelogue combining
unconventional (and astonishingly
un-PC) storytelling, food and
cocktail recipes collected
from the authors travels. $10.
Available for order from
Subterranean Books,
6275 Delmar Blvd.,
St. Louis, 314.862.6100,
store.subbooks.com

5. The
Gentlemans
Companion

1. Monthly
wine club

Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 7

4. Microgreen
microgarden
1. Cocoa and
marshmallows

THE OBLIGATORY GIFT


Your kids teacher. Your girlfriends dad. An office secret Santa.
There are plenty of people to whom youre obligated to send a little
holiday cheer. Not that its a problem but what the heck do you
buy for your roommates new boyfriend? Dont sweat it. From boxes
of meat to some light culinary reading, weve got you covered on
giving generic gifts that are anything but. Kristin Schultz

Cocoa and
Marshmallows
Warm their hearts and bellies
with all the fixings for a perfect
mug of hot cocoa. Choose from
regular, milk chocolate, chai,
Mexican or mint chocolate mix
and pair it with a bag of pillowy
vanilla bean marshmallows.
Cocoa: $6. Marshmallows: $4 to
$5. Kakao Chocolate, multiple
locations, kakaochocolate.com

2. Butchers box
meat packs

Butchers Box Meat Packs


Pasture-raised meat and houseground sausage are always
winners. Let Bolyards select the
meats for you, then choose from
a Weekend Warrior Pack, with 3
pounds of breakfast and dinner
cuts and a half-dozen farm-fresh
eggs, or go big with Meat for
the Week 7 pounds of choice
cuts plus pasta, sauce, six eggs
and more. Weekend Warrior:
$40; Meat for the Week: $100.
Bolyards Meat & Provisions,
2810 Sutton Blvd., Maplewood,
314.647.2567, bolyardsmeat.com

Cooking Classes
Send them back to school with
gift certificates for classes
at Kitchen Conservatory.
Instructors like Josh Galliano
of Companion Baking, Qui
Tran of Mai Lee and in-house
kitchen pros conduct classes
on everything from French
pastry to pho. With diverse
classes at all price points, theres
something for everyone. $40
and up. Kitchen Conservatory,
8021 Clayton Road, Richmond
Heights, 314.862.2665,
kitchenconservatory.com

Microgreen microgarden
Pretty and purposeful, this
countertop greenhouse from
Infarm allows the culinary
and curious alike to watch
microgreens grow in two weeks
or less, thanks to a transparent
enclosure, agar-agar and seeds.
This reusable indoor garden will
keep the planters thumb plenty
green until the ground thaws.
$28. Bowood Farms, 4605 Olive
St., St. Louis, 314.454.6868,
bowoodfarms.com
3. Cooking
classes

Mark Bittmans
Kitchen Matrix
Acclaimed food writer and
advocate Mark Bittmans latest
release, Mark Bittmans Kitchen
Matrix: More Than 700 Simple
Recipes and Techniques to
Mix and Match for Endless
Possibilities teaches them how to
break the rules. Offering flexible
ingredients and guidelines,
Bittmans book both educates
the home cook and allows
for creativity. $35. The Novel
Neighbor, 7905 Big Bend Blvd.,
Webster Groves, 314.738.9384,
thenovelneighbor.com

5. Mark Bittmans
Kitchen Matrix

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Guide to the Holidays 2015

THE FOOD
SNOB

5. Fruit bowl

3. Food snob
apron

We get it. Its intimidating to


shop for the food snob. Check
out these sure-to-please gift
ideas for the fancy foodie who
isnt afraid to pick on your
barware. Or your olive oil
brand. Or your grandmothers
casserole recipe.
Michael Renner

Caviar
James Bond and the Russian
czars may have enjoyed it, but
the good stuff from the Caspian
Sea is all but gone thanks to
geopolitics, overfishing and other
factors. However, this Sarasota,
Florida-based producer farmraises black sturgeon from egg to
fish using sustainable aquaculture
methods. Pass the Champagne.
Platinum: $76; Reserve: $95.
Healthy Earth Black Opal
Caviar, healthyearth.org

Artisanal Chocolate
Not just any truffle will do.
Thankfully, theres St. Louis
chocolatier Sheila Kleinschmidt
of Oh Sheila! Chocolates, who
crafts truffles, caramels, bars and
chocolate bacon as decadent
as her retro dresses and 1940s
hairdo. Rum chipotle truffles with
smoked sea salt? Bacon, caramel
and pecan chocolate clusters?
Oh, Sheila! Prices vary. Kind
Soap Co., 20 Allen Ave., Webster
Groves, 314.942.2024;
ohsheila.com

Food snob apron


Food snobs cant hide who they
are, so why fight it? Whether
theyre picky about paella or
coleslaw, theres an apron screenprinted with every hoity-toity
food or drink you can think of.
Comes in white, khaki or lemon.
He looks good in lemon. $24.
Cafe Press, cafepress.com

Age-your-own whiskey
The food snob likes to be in
control. St. Louis Still 630 makes
DIY whiskey foolproof with its
home whiskey-aging kit, complete
with a tiny charred white oak
barrel, high-proof unaged
whiskey (corn, rye and barley
mash bill) and two fancy tasting
glasses. Heres to you, Mr. Van
Winkle. $139. Still 630 Distillery,
1000 S. Fourth St., St. Louis,
314.513.2275, still630.com

Fruit bowl
This Espera Centerpiece bowlcum-colander design was inspired
by the behavior and the beautiful
webbed form of the sea fan (aka
the sea fern we looked it up). If
that werent snobby enough, its
made of hand-polished stainless
steel or comes in a 24-karat gold
version. No better way to serve
your Ruby Roman grapes (aka the
worlds most expensive grape we
looked that up, too). $350. Anna
New York by RabLabs, rablabs.com

4. Age-yourown-whiskey

1. Caviar

2. Artisanal chocolate

Guide to the Holidays 2015

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saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 13

seasons
brunchings

Shot on location at
the residence
of The Place Home
owner-designer
Emily Mitchell,
theplacehome.com

Holiday brunch is the most wonderful time of the year. It breaks down barriers:
between breakfast and lunch, sweet and savory, coffee and booze and, now, between
host and guest. With make-ahead recipes and simple brunch staples, all you need to
do is preheat the oven, put out the plates and enjoy a meal with people special enough
to invite over before noon.
BY H E ATH E R H U G H E S , K E LLI E H Y N E S , JA M I E K I LG O R E , TE D K I LG O R E , C ATH E R I N E K LE N E ,
A N N E M A R I E LO D H O L Z , DA N LO D H O L Z , M E E R A N AG A R A JA N , M AG G I E PE A R S O N ,
S PE N C E R PE R N I KO FF A N D D E E RYA N // PH OTOS BY E M I LY SUZ A N N E M C D O N A LD

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Guide to the Holidays 2015

Bacon for a Crowd


Gone are the days when you slaved over a
stovetop, dodging hot bacon grease. Save yourself
the trouble and bake bacon in any quantity you
like. In a large, rimmed baking pan lined with
foil, arrange the bacon slices close together in a
single layer. Place in a cold oven, then heat to 400
degrees. Bake 20 to 22 minutes for regular bacon
and 26 to 28 minutes for thick-cut bacon. Drain on
a paper towel-lined plate and serve. M.N.

Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 15

MILK

PUNCH

1 CUP
3 WAYS
Brew the perfect cup for
brunch and customize it to
your holiday stress level. H.H.

recipe on p. 21

Level 1
You overslept. Get a move on and
use your favorite pour-over setup
to make a mug of Sump Coffees
Costa Rica Las Lajas Perla Negra
(25 grams coffee to 350 grams
water). This balanced natural
coffee has a hint of fruitiness that
lets the brew stand on its own.

Level 2
Aunt Susan just showed up
unannounced with her four kids
in tow. Add 1 ounce Makers Mark
to that brewed coffee for a shot
of stress relief, then slap on a
smile and find some extra chairs.

16 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Level 3
Your helpful preschooler just
dropped a dozen eggs on the floor.
Sometimes happy hour starts at 10
a.m. Use an electic mixer to beat
cup heavy cream with 1 tablespoon
powdered sugar on medium-high
speed for 3 minutes, then fold
in 1 tablespoon Carpano Antica
Formula sweet vermouth. Top
your bourbon-spiked brew with a
healthy dollop for a Manhattaninspired
of peace.
Guide moment
to the Holidays
2015

CROISSANT
FRENCH TOAST

CASSEROLE
recipe on p. 21

Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 17

BEST
BRUNCH

BUYS

Complete your favorite hybrid


meal with local picks that take
brunch from standard to stellar.
Serve these at home or gift
them to brunch hosts. M.P.

Raw Missouri
Honey
Honey is the secret
ingredient in many of our
favorite brunch dishes.
Drizzle over roasted
Brussels sprouts, mix
with vinegar for salad
dressings or dollop over
bananas and yogurt.
Caruthersville, Missouri
harvester Sam Crowe
can hook you up with
the good stuff. $12.
The Heirloom Room,
2116 Cherokee St., St.
Louis, 314.772.8000,
theheirloomroom.com

Bagels and Lox


Few things in life outclass a
good bagel and lox. Kohns
Deli does it right with coldsmoked nova lox and thick,
chewy bagels. Purchase
enough for a platter
(think three to four slices
of lox per bagel) and
serve with cream cheese,
tomato, red onion, capers
and lemon wedges.
Lox: $24 per pound;
Bagels: $1 each. Kohns
Kosher Meat and Deli,
10405 Olive St., Creve
Coeur, 314.569.0727,
kohnskosher.com

18 I SAUCE MAGAZINE I saucemagazine.com

Seasonal Oysters
Oysters for brunch
may seem odd in a
landlocked state, but
Bobs Seafood brings
them in fresh enough
to transport you to the
Pacific Northwest. Add
a squeeze of lemon
juice to offset that sea
brine and pair with a
stiff bloody mary. Price
varies. Bobs Seafood,
8660 Olive Blvd.,
Olivette, 314.993.4844,
bobsseafoodstl.com

Lochhead Vanilla
Extract
The three-generationsold Lochhead vanilla
extract recipe is made
using a cold-extraction
process. With a rich,
smooth flavor, all your
holiday sweets deserve
a heavy pour. $11.
Available at Straubs
locations, straubs.com

314 Hot Sauce


Eggs without hot
sauce? Blasphemy. 314
Hot Sauce is perfectly
proportioned to give
any dish a kick without
searing off tastebuds.
$6. Sweet Boutique,
8115 Maryland Ave.,
Clayton, 314.932.1222,
Facebook: Sweet
Boutique STL

Geisert Farms
Sausage Patties
Not everyone loves
bacon as much as Jim
Gaffigan. Offer some
variety with Geisert
Farms sausage patties
which should be pan-

seared and finished in


the oven. Pork from
happy, pasture-raised
pigs just tastes better. $8.
Freddies Market, 9052
Big Bend Blvd., Webster
Groves, 314.968.1914,
freddiesmarket.com
Guide to the Holidays 2015

Have leftover
croissants? Use
them in the croissant
French toast recipe
on p. 21.

Keep kitchen-space
invaders at bay with an
array of local pastries to
snack on before they sit
down to brunch. Here,
some of our favorite treats
from around town. H.H.

Croissant
$3. Comet Coffee &
Microbakery, 5708 Oakland
Ave., St. Louis, 314.932.7770,
cometcoffeestl.com

Savory scone
$2.50. Pint Size Bakery,
3825 Watson Road, St. Louis,
314.645.7142,
pintsizebakery.com

PASTRY

PERFECT

Orange lavender
olive oil cake
$4. 4 Seasons Bakery,
2012 Campus Drive,
St. Charles, 314.288.9176,
4seasonsbakery.com

Big Mama vegan
cinnamon roll
$4. SweetArt, 2203 S. 39th
St., St. Louis, 314.771.4278,
sweetartstl.com

Smoked bacon-cheddarsweet corn muffin


$3. La Patisserie Chouquette,
1626 Tower Grove Ave.,
St. Louis, 314.932.7935,
simonefaure.com

Pumpkin scone
$2.50. Whisk: A Sustainable
Bakeshop, 2201 Cherokee
St., St. Louis, 314.932.5166,
whiskstl.com

Cherry turnover
$3.50. Winslows Home, 7213
Delmar Blvd., University City,
314.725.7559, winslowshome.com
Guide to the Holidays 2015

saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 19

MINI
YOGURT CUPS
Mini yogurt cups make a big impression.
The customizable, assembly-only treat is an
ideal brunch appetizer. Fill 4-ounce jars or
other cute glassware with about cup of
your favorite plain or vanilla yogurt. Top with
crunchy granola and julienned pear. H.H.

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Guide to the Holidays 2015

RECIPES
MILK PUNCH

Eggnog is for kids. This one-two boozy


punch keeps things simple but allows
for plenty of variation in flavor and
character, depending on how you pick
your poison. T.K. and J.K.
5 SERVINGS
1 cups brandy, bourbon or dark rum
5 oz. dark simple syrup*
2 cups whole milk
5 oz. water
Freshly grated nutmeg
Add the brandy, dark simple syrup,
milk and water to a blender and blitz
to combine. Refrigerate 4 hours, until
chilled. Serve in a highball glass and
top with nutmeg.
*In a saucepan over high heat, bring
equal parts brown sugar and
water to a boil. Simmer until sugar
dissolves. Remove from heat and let
cool to room temperature.

GRATIN DE NICOLE

Prepare this dish the night before, then


pop it in the oven for easy brunch
baking while you prepare your bloody
mary. M.P.
8 SERVINGS
1 lb. day-old good-quality white bread,
cut into -inch cubes
4 eggs
cup flour
2 cups whole milk
2 Tbsp. minced fresh parsley
1 Tbsp. Dijon mustard
tsp. kosher salt
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
lb. bacon, diced
lb. Gruyere cheese, cut into -inch cubes
Preheat the oven to 375 degrees.
Guide to the Holidays 2015

Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking dish


with nonstick spray.
Place the bread in a large mixing
bowl. In a separate medium bowl,
whisk together the eggs and flour
until smooth and thick. Whisk in
the milk, parsley, mustard, salt and
pepper, then pour over the bread. Let
rest 15 minutes.
In a skillet over medium heat, saute
the bacon until lightly cooked
but not crisp, about 10 minutes.
Transfer to paper towel-lined plate
to drain.
Add the bacon and cheese to the
bread mixture and stir to combine.
Pour into the baking dish. Bake until
crusty on top, 40 to 45 minutes.

CROISSANT FRENCH TOAST


CASSEROLE

This spectacular but simple dish was


inspired by a brunch at a charming
bed-and-breakfast in Fulton, Missouri.
A.L. and D.L.
8 SERVINGS
6 croissants
cup orange marmalade
5 eggs
2 cups heavy cream, divided
1 tsp. vanilla extract, divided
tsp. almond extract
tsp. freshly grated nutmeg
tsp. kosher salt
2 Tbsp. sugar
1 lb. strawberries, sliced
Maple or strawberry syrup (optional)
Grease a 9-by-13-inch baking
dish with nonstick spray. Slice
the croissants in half horizontally;
arrange the bottom halves in the
dish. Spread the marmalade on
the cut sides of the croissants,
then replace the top halves of the
croissants.

In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs,


1 cup cream, teaspoon vanilla
extract, almond extract, nutmeg and
salt until combined. Pour the mixture
evenly over the croissants. Wrap the
dish in plastic wrap and refrigerate
overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove the plastic wrap from the
dish. Bake 25 minutes, until the egg
mixture is set and the croissants are
golden brown.
Meanwhile, in a bowl, use a hand
mixer to beat the remaining 1 cup
cream, the remaining teaspoon
vanilla extract and the sugar on high
speed until stiff peaks form, about 5
minutes. Serve the French toast with
strawberries, whipped cream and
maple syrup, if desired.

BLOODY MARY

Banish boring bloodies. This complex


recipe lets you keep your Zing Zang,
but adds four kinds of citrus, a couple
hot sauces and even a splash of
oatmeal stout. H.H.
Courtesy of Tick Tock Taverns
Tyson Blanquart
4 SERVINGS
3 cups Zing Zang Bloody Mary Mix
6 oz. Deep Eddy Ruby Red Vodka*
4 oz. Schlafly Oatmeal Stout
3 oz. orange juice
4 oz. steak sauce
3 oz. Sriracha
Juice of 2 limes, plus more for rimming
Juice of 1 lemon
12 dashes celery salt
12 dashes Fee Bros. celery bitters
12 dashes Tabasco
8 dashes Worcestershire sauce
Rim Shot bloody mary rimming salt
12 blue cheese-stuffed olives
4 lime wedges
Freshly ground black pepper to taste

In a large pitcher, add the Zing


Zang, vodka, oatmeal stout, orange
juice, steak sauce, Sriracha, lime
juice, lemon juice, celery salt, bitters,
Tabasco and Worcestershire. Stir
vigorously 30 seconds. Refrigerate at
least 30 minutes, until the mixture is
chilled.
Rim 4 pint glasses with lime juice and
rimming salt and fill each one-third
full with fresh ice. Pour the mixture
through a fine-mesh sieve into each
glass. Garnish each with 3 olives
and 1 lime wedge. Top with the
freshly ground pepper.
*Available at Randalls Wine & Spirits,
multiple locations, shoprandalls.com

WHITE CHEDDAR-BLUEBERRY
FRENCH TOAST CASSEROLE
Sharp white cheddar cheese adds
unexpected savory notes to a
traditionally sweet breakfast
treat. C.K.
Adapted from a recipe by
Diane Bianco
12 SERVINGS
2 cups frozen wild blueberries
cup sugar
cup water
2 Tbsp. maple syrup
1 Tbsp. orange zest
tsp. cinnamon
8 eggs
cup milk
tsp. baking powder
Pinch kosher salt
Pinch freshly grated nutmeg
1 loaf day-old challah bread, torn into
bite-sized pieces
1 cups shredded white cheddar
In a medium saucepan over medium
heat, combine the blueberries,
saucemagazine.com I SAUCE MAGAZINE I 21

Hollandaise in a flash?
Yes, you can in a
blender.
Recipe on p. 23.

BAKED

EGGS

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Guide to the Holidays 2015

sugar, water and maple syrup.


Simmer 15 to 20 minutes, stirring
frequently and smashing the berries
with a spoon until they begin to
break down. Remove from heat
and stir in the orange zest and
cinnamon. Set aside and let cool to
room temperature.
Meanwhile, in a large mixing bowl,
whisk together the eggs, milk, baking
powder, salt and nutmeg. Set aside.
Grease a 9-by-13-inch casserole
dish with nonstick spray; add the
blueberry mixture and spread evenly.
Cover with the challah, then gently
pour the egg mixture evenly over
the bread. Sprinkle the top with the
cheddar. Cover with plastic wrap
and refrigerate overnight.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.
Remove the plastic from the dish
and bake 20 to 25 minutes, until the
custard is set.
Turn the broiler to high, then brown
the top until the cheese is bubbly and
golden, about 5 minutes.

BAKED EGGS

Baked eggs add a touch of simple


elegance to any brunch table. Swap
the spicy sausage for a pound of
roasted mushrooms for a vegetarian
option. M.N.
Adapted from a recipe by Giada De
Laurentiis
8 SERVINGS
2 cups cubed, good-quality white bread
2 Tbsp. extra-virgin olive oil, divided
1 lb. fiama sausage* or another spicy
Italian sausage
1 medium onion, finely diced
1 10-oz. package frozen spinach,
thawed and drained
tsp. kosher salt, plus more if desired
tsp. freshly ground black pepper,
plus more if desired
cup goat cheese
8 large eggs
Chopped fresh chives, for garnish
Blender Hollandaise (recipe follows)
Sriracha
Preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Toss the bread with 1 tablespoon oil.
Arrange bread on a sheet pan in a
single layer and bake until lightly
golden, 8 to 10 minutes. Set aside.
Guide to the Holidays 2015

In a large nonstick skillet over


medium-high heat, warm the
remaining 1 tablespoon oil, then add
the sausage and onion. Saute until
the onions are soft and the sausage
is browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Add
the spinach, teaspoon salt and
teaspoon pepper and stir to combine.
Spread the sausage mixture into
a 9-by-13-inch glass or ceramic
baking dish. Crumble the goat
cheese on top, arrange the bread
cubes over the goat cheese and
create 8 wells.
Crack 1 egg into a ramekin to keep
the yolk intact. Gently slide the
egg into a well. Repeat with the
remaining eggs. If desired, sprinkle
the eggs with salt and pepper.
Bake 10 to 15 minutes, until the egg
whites are opaque and yolks are
runny. Garnish with the chopped
chives, drizzle with hollandaise and
serve with Sriracha.
*Available at Salume Beddu,
3467 Hampton Ave., St. Louis,
314.353.3100, salumebeddu.com

BLENDER HOLLANDAISE

Hollandaise in a flash? Yes, you can


no strenuous whisking required. For a
thicker sauce, reduce or omit the water
completely. M.N.
MAKES CUP
3 egg yolks
3 Tbsp. water
1 Tbsp. lemon juice
tsp. kosher salt
tsp. freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp. Dijon mustard (optional)
1 tsp. Sriracha (optional)
1 stick unsalted butter
In a blender, combine the egg yolks,
water, lemon juice, salt and pepper.
Add Dijon mustard or Sriracha, if
desired.
In a saucepan over medium heat,
melt the butter 3 to 5 minutes, until it
begins to foam. Remove from heat.
Place the lid on the blender, removing
the center cap. With the blender
running on medium speed, slowly
pour the melted butter into the egg
yolk mixture through the center to
emulsify. Serve warm over Baked
Eggs or eggs Benedict.
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