Вы находитесь на странице: 1из 23

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

INTRODUCTION
Artisan celebrates the unstyled. Going back to the
traditional skills of the tradesman, this story has a
simple, honest approach, and is built on the
principles of passion, craftsmanship and
authenticity. The perfect start for the autumnal
season, Artisan comes wrapped in warm, rustic
tones and textures, outsized silhouettes and
crafted, upcycled materials.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Nick van Woert's work captures the weathered, worn


and rustic surface treatments of the season. Interested
in the evolution of material, he uses CNC milled
pulverized plastic, plywood and polyurethane resin
(among other things such as cat litter) to give the
appearance of peeling paint, rust and corrosion.

This photograph from Jamie Hawkesworth is part of


the Sleeping Patterns project for Dazed & Confused.
Asked to create a new series of photographs for the
magazine's first art residency, Hawkesworth focused
on the intimate narrative that lies behind abstract
images. The squiggled rope that weaves in and out of
the park fence prompts new surface direction for A/W
16/17.

The work of late artist Judith Scott recently went on


view at Brooklyn Museum in New York. Titled Bound
and Unbound, the retrospective also influences our
Unravelled and Unfinished story, inspiring the use of
yarns, fabrics, fibres and threads to create
meticulously woven, bundled forms that appear
unravelled and unfinished.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Having travelled from the East to the West Coast of the


USA, Peter Sutherland created hazy scenes of
American iconography. This piece, printed onto
perforated vinyl and glued onto industrial plywood, is
an image of a fire taken on a ranch in Colorado. The
chipboard texture and subtle overlays inspire Artisan's
hazy montages.

Alex Chinneck created a large-scale two-storey


sculpture out of 8,000 wax bricks. Part of Merge
Festival, the house was melted manually with heating
tools and celebrates the history of an old candlemaking factory based in Bankside. The dripping
bricks are key in influencing our Unravelled and
Unfinished story coming up later in this report.

Manolo Valds works with vegetable-dyed hessian.


The way he builds different levels and layers of rustic
colour into his work offers a great springboard for this
season's approach to patchwork.

JW Anderson has unveiled his new vision for Loewe.


Taking the history and heritage of the Spanish brand
and pairing it with his signature high-functioning
minimalism, his debut came firmly rooted in the luxury
of crafted, considered simplicity.

Margaret Howell is devoted to the values of classic


British tailoring. Good quality fabrics, purposeful
design and fine craftsmanship are key traits
throughout her collections; all of those traits are
evident here, in the black-and-white photography of
her A/W 14/15 lookbook campaign.

Central Saint Martins graduate Asai Andrew Ta took


second prize at the L'Oral Professionnel Talent
Awards earlier this year. Described as "wind-whipped
storms of cloth", his collection alludes to the ripped,
frayed and deconstructed fabrics to come.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Paul Harnden started out as a shoemaker more than


25 years ago, and in 2000 launched his clothing
division, Paul Harnden Clothiers, alongside co-founder
Elena Dawson. Producing well-made, long-lasting
pieces, he is devoted to handcrafted items and oldschool manufacturing techniques.

The Seattle-based brand Filson has launched a


restoration department. Enlisting expert craftsmen, the
brand brings a second lease of life to worn Filson
bags, creating extremely beautiful, beaten-in one-of-akind pieces.

Parisian designer Faustine Steinmetz reproduces


classic wardrobe pieces using artisanal, couture-like
techniques. A stickler for detail, she believes in the
traditional ideas of craft and takes pride in doing
things the right (labour-intensive) way, making every
product from scratch.

METALLIC

18-5606 TCX

19-4342 TCX

18-4220 TCX

18-4105 TCX

17-1109 TCX

18-0629 TCX

17-1028 TCX

19-0618 TCX

12-0605 TCX

19-1624 TCX

Built with character and authenticity in mind, this palette works with denim blue, lumberjack red and
woody timber tones. Khaki green and stony grey also bring hardy depth.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

19-3905 TCX

8401 C

8623 C

18-1535 TCX

19-1532 TCX

Blue-Collar Sartorial
This story rolls up its sleeves with working-class attitude. Heavily
influenced by the humble roots of the blue-collar household,
sartorial tailoring takes on a less formal, more relaxed approach.
The collar is unbuttoned, the tie is removed and proportions gently
unwind with softer, looser proportion. Men and women also dress
alike, as boundaries dissipate and genders come to value the
timelessness (and reliability) of classic wardrobe staples.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Relaxed Raw Denim


Designers are approaching denim in new, dynamic
ways. Playing with volume, either through
enormous form or shrunken fabrics, it takes on a
different shape. Nothing sits as it should, while the
fabric itself is clean, rich indigo denim, unfinished
at the edges with raw, natural sheen.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Tradesmans Tools
Designers delve into the tradesmans toolbox, focusing on the nuts
and bolts of purposeful design. Old sheds and dusty workshops
inspire traditional colours, durable materials and classic metal
detailing - as seen with Celines A/W 14 Catalogue Bag and Blind
Spots Marble and Leather Ring that features screws that go through
the stone. The quality and character that lies in the detail also adds a
new level of luxury to these bread and butter designs.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Painter & Decorator


The maker movement trickles into surface design as a
painter and decorator look inundates the season. Sullied
marbling and colour-bleed camouflage conjure up images
of artists, makers, creatives and collectives working,
painting and creating. The bleached, DIY aesthetic from
Raf Simons and long-time friend Sterling Ruby includes
paint splatters, and represents a new wave of design
where fashion meets the artist's paintbrush.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

The Workhouse
Inspired by the workhouses of old East London, Artisan
employs sturdy fabrics with long-lasting, hardy character.
Silhouettes look to the past but have a very contemporary
touch. Joseph Beuyss Felt Suit bottles the enduring
functionality of a well-made classic, while A G Nauta, inspired
by the clothes worn in the 1920s and 1940s, creates a beautiful
series of handmade clothes, also capturing this storys
industrial-style backdrop.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

The Rag-and-Bone Man


The old rag-and-bone man influences this fashion story.
Cobbling looks together, oversized proportions are piled
over lots and lots of layers for a rough styling look. Again,
nothing quite fits here. Bulky pea coats envelop baggy
tailored trousers, cosy autumn knitwear sits loose and
relaxed under big blanket coats, and boys and girls for
that matter kick back in leather work boots.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Ageing Techniques
Instead of trying to make products look
new, designers are trying to make them
look old, experimenting with distressed
looks through dip-dyeing, abrasions and
relief techniques. This seasons
distressing enriches the tactile quality of
the cloth, creating classic, functional
pieces, full of character, that dont date
but rather mellow with age.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Custom Repair and Embellishment


The quilted skirt above, which featured in Pops September editorial, is a
beautiful ode to the craftsmanship of patchwork. Technical in its approach but
retaining the character of an old technique, it represents the roots of repair in
an exquisitely handsome way. The jacket, on the other hand, marks this storys
eclectic approach to surface decoration, where the face of the fabric is
customised with tarnished metal trinkets and ordered odds and ends.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Country Boho
Fashion looks to the artisanal lifestyle of the arty bohemian. Whisking us away
to the country, it has a rural boho feel to it, though here it is more styled and
conscious. Practical and comfortable but in an elegant, effortless way,
silhouettes are relaxed, soft and draped with roomy, romantic volume. Fabrics
come slightly crumpled in a lived-in, laid-back sense.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Patch & Repair


Needle punching is becoming more elaborate, with designers looking to update
the technique with a patch-and-repair aesthetic. Looking to the homely comfort
of Grandmas old crochet blankets and quilted throws, designers bring about
the re-emergence of new patchwork effects.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Unravelled and Unfinished


Knitwear is pulled apart and unravelled to frayed, unfinished effect.
Judith Scott offers a wealth of inspiration here, as she carefully and
methodically assembled her work by tying, weaving, binding and
enveloping objects in a way that looked undone. Alex Chinnecks
large-scale melting sculpture built out of 8,000 wax bricks also
influences surface direction, whereby the drooping and dripping wax
inspires loose, ragged and frayed waterfall effects.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Colossal Weaves
This story focuses on woven and plaited construction through the
lens of a magnifying glass. Zooming in on volume, the scale of the
weave is amplified for new surface interest, and Wenda Harmsen
is just of one of many designers magnifying the proportions to
beautiful effect. Along with knitwear and wovens, this trend works
for prints too.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Graphic Overlays
Inspired by David Carsons cult rock-and-roll magazine, Ray Gun,
design moves away from the clean, stark graphic style that has
dominated the past few seasons, and edges towards a (softer)
graphic grunge return. A huge influencer of its time, the
magazines experimental typographic design triggers this
seasons photocopy feel, old-school cut-and-paste aesthetic and
distinctive graphic overlays.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Rustic hand-loom materials are rooted in handicrafts and thrifty resourcefulness. Macro-scale basket weaves, stitched and repaired cottons and denims, worn-out
pattern chenille and velvet, and brushed yarn tweed plaids provide a casually ad hoc everyday approach.

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

Sinkane

Raury

Flying Lotus

Young Fathers

Lapsley

Kate Tempest

James Bay

Mapei

Cate le Bon

Kindness

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

CULTURE
ART

FASHION

Sterling Ruby

Joe Mckenna

ART

Julian Opie

Ray Gun
magazine

CULTURE
FASHION

Raury

Brut clothing

FASHION

Sermin
Kardestuncer

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast

FASHION

CULTURE

Quoi Alexander

James Bay

WGSN Forecast > A/W 16/17 > Fashion Forecast


Powered by TCPDF (www.tcpdf.org)