BEAUTY THERAPY ASSIGNMENT FIVE

RESEARCH OF THE AGEING PROCESS & THE EFFECTS ON THE SKIN

A. THE CHARACTERISTICS AND PROCESS OF AGEING
Aging is commonly defined as the accumulation of diverse deleterious
changes occurring in cells and tissues with advancing age that are responsible
for the increased risk of disease and death. Before examining the hypothesized
biological factors at the basis of the aging process, it is crucial to underline that
aging is not a disease. Based on this assumption, Hayflick estimates that a
potential cure of the leading causes of death in old age (ie, cardiovascular
disease, stroke, cancer) would only lead to a 15 year-increase in human life
expectancy. The major theories of aging (eg, the free radical theory, the
immunologic theory, the inflammation theory, mitochondrial theory) are all specific
of a particular cause of aging, providing useful and important insights for the
understanding of physiological changes occurring with aging.
The free radical theory of aging was first formulated by Harman who
hypothesized a single common process, modifiable by genetic and environmental
factors, in which the accumulation of endogenous oxygen radicals generated in
cells could be responsible for the aging and death of all living beings. This theory
was then revised when mitochondria were identified as responsible for the
initiation of most of the free radical reactions related to the aging process. It was
also postulated that the life span is determined by the rate of free radical damage
to the mitochondria. The increasing age-related oxidative stress seems to be a
consequence of the imbalance between the free radical production and
antioxidant defenses with a higher production of the former.
The mitochondrial theory of aging is often considered as an extension and
refinement of the free radical theory. Mitochondrial DNA mutations accumulate
progressively during life and are directly responsible for a measurable deficiency
in cellular oxydative phosphorylation activity, leading to an enhanced reactive
oxygen species production. This latter results in an increased rate of
mitochondrial DNA damage and mutagenesis, triggering the onset of a vicious

cycle of exponentially increasing oxidative damage and dysfunction, which

ultimately culminates in death.
Inflammation is a complex hosts normal defense reaction to physiological
and nonphysiological stressors. Acute as well as chronic inflammatory responses
are constituted by sequential phases, controlled by humoral and cellular stimula:
1) intracellular activation; 2) proinflammatory cells in the tissues; 3) increase of
vascular permeability; 4) damaging of tissues and cell death. An individual
threshold of the capability to cope with stress has been hypothesized. If the agerelated inflammation (or inflamm-aging) trespasses this level, the transition
between successful and unsuccesful aging occurs
In 1989, Franceschi proposed the immune theory of aging, or network
theory of aging, in which suggested that aging is indirectly controlled by a
network of cellular and molecular defense mechanisms. The major parts of the
network are constituted by DNA repair enzymes, activation of poly (ADP-ribosyl)
polymerase, enzymatic and nonenzymatic antioxidant systems (eg, superoxide
dismutase, catalase, glutathione peroxidase), production of heat shock proteins.
The characteristics of ageing include the biological and physiological
changes, accumulation of waste product, loss of elasticity in connective tissue.
Three particularly relevant areas of psychological change are information
processing, personality, the myth of senility.
B. INTRINSIC AND EXTRINSIC AGEING
There are two basic types of aging: intrinsic (or chronological) and
extrinsic (or environmental). The first type, intrinsic aging, has to do with the
inevitable passage of time and the conditions that arise because of it. In the
1960s, scientists discovered that the root cause of aging lay deep within our skin
cells DNA. Some of the conditions that come with intrinsic aging will happen no
matter how well-intentioned you are.
The second type of aging is more sinister, if only because it falls within our
control. Extrinsic aging is responsible for most of the harm that we view as aged
skin, and it is brought on by external factors like smoking, pollution, sleep
deprivation, poor nutrition, and of course the big one: exposure to the sun.
Because this process is avoidable and usually self-inflicted, it is often referred to

as premature aging. Its also important to note that skin cancer occurs almost
exclusively in prematurely aged skin.
C. AGEING AND THE SKIN
Intrinsic agingsigns Include:
Dry skin: As we age, the skins oil glands produce significantly less oil,

resulting in pronounced dehydration that makes wrinkles more apparent.

Wrinkles: The natural loss of those little worker bees, collagen and elastin,
is largely to blame for the appearance of wrinkles. Years of dynamic
expressions, in the form of smiling, laughing, frowning, and squinting, also

contribute to wrinkles.
Large pores: Theyre the bane of our existence, since they can make the
complexion look rough and uneven. As we age, the loss of the skins

underlying support system prompts the pores to become even larger.

Redness: A cluster of fine red lines appear most frequently on the cheeks
and nose, and theyre due to the proliferation of tiny broken capillaries

underneath the skin.

Decreased healing capability: Starting in our thirties, the turnover rate of
epidermal cells slows down remarkably, resulting in both a dulled
complexion and a decreased ability to heal wounds.

Extrinsic Agingsigns Include: In addition to the natural signs of aging, many

people experience the following:

Increased roughness: As free radicals, mainly from sunlight, destroy the

skins collagen and elastin, the skin cells start to turn over in an irregular
fashion resulting in scaly patches of rough skin.

Spots everywhere: Constant exposure to the suns ultraviolet rays makes

our skin pigment act abnormally, resulting in spots throughout the face,
upper chest, and handsbasically, anywhere the sun has shone on.

Excessive wrinkling: Even more pronounced wrinkling, particularly on the

cheeks, neck, and forehead, is usually seen only in individuals who have
been exposed to the sun.

Sagging skin: Think of our elastin as rubber bands and the sun as a
scissor. Now imagine that scissor (the sun) cutting the rubber band
(elastin) into tiny pieces, thats exactly what happens with environmental
damage.

D. DEGENERATIVE DISORDERS CAUSED BY AGEING

Degenerative disease is a disease in which the function or structure of the
affected tissues or organs will increasingly deteriorate over time, whether due to
normal

bodily wear

or lifestyle

choices

such

as

exercise

or eating

habits. Degenerative diseases are often contrasted with infectious diseases.

Degenerative disorders Alzheimers disease, amyotrophic lateral
sclerosis (ALS), Huntingtons disease, and Parkinsons disease, among others
affect more than 45 million people worldwide. These diseases often strike older
adults and are characterized by progressive deterioration of nerve cells,
eventually leading to cell death. Through human and animal studies researchers
are developing new and compelling ideas about the diagnosis and treatment of
these disorders, with the goal of slowing or stopping their progression. Solving
the mystery of what causes each degenerative disorder is important in identifying
treatments, and perhaps one day, cures. Scientists have identified key similarities
among degenerative disorders thanks, in part, to advances in genetics,
biochemistry, cell biology, and imaging technology. These efforts revealed the
presence of abnormal proteins in many degenerative diseases, and brought to
light new questions about how these proteins interfere with normal cellular
functions and spread throughout the brain.
Disorders caused by mitochondrial respiratory chain deficiency due to
mutations in mitochondrial DNA have varied phenotypes but many involve
neurological features often associated with cell loss within specific brain regions.
These disorders, along with the increasing evidence of decline in mitochondrial

function with ageing, have raised speculation that primary changes in

mitochondria could have an important role in age-related neurodegenerative
diseases such as Parkinson's disease (PD) and Alzheimer's disease (AD).
Mutations within the mitochondrial genome have been shown to accumulate with
age

and

in

haplogroups

common
have

also

neurodegenerative
been

shown

to

diseases.
be

Mitochondrial

associated

with

DNA
certain

neurodegenerative conditions.

RESEARCH OF COSMECEUTICAL (ALPHA HYDROXY ACID)

The term "cosmeceutical" was created in 1990s from cosm(etic) and
(pharma)ceutic. Cosmeceutical is a cosmetic product claimed to have medicinal or
drug-like benefits. Cosmeceutical products are marketed as cosmetics, but reputedly
contain biologically active ingredients. One of the ingredient that is claimed as the
cosmeceutical is alpha hydroxy acids.
Alpha hydroxy acids are a group of natural acids found in foods. Alpha hydroxy
acids include citric acid (found in citrus fruits), glycolic acid (found in sugar cane), lactic

acid (found in sour milk), malic acid (found in apples), tartaric acid (found in grapes),
and others.
A. Benefits :
Some people take malic acid by mouth with magnesium for treating pain and

tenderness associated with fibromyalgia.

Various alpha hydroxy acids are applied to the skin (used topically) for
moisturizing and removing dead skin cells, for treating acne and improving
the appearance of acne scars, for improving the appearance of photo-aged

skin, and firming and smoothing skin.

Alpha hydroxy acids are also used topically to treat extremely dry
skin (xerosis), an inherited disease marked by dry, scaly skin (ichthyosis), and
a condition that causes darkening of the skin (melasma). When this condition
develops in pregnant women, it is sometimes called the mask of pregnancy.

B. Effects :
Alpha hydroxy acids seem remove the top layers of dead skin cells.
They can also increase the thickness of deeper layers of skin, promoting
firmness

C. Indications :

Treating sun damage when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion, but
alpha hydroxy skin peels do not seem to work for this use.

Treating dry skin when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion.

Acne when applied to the skin in a cream or lotion.

Acne scars when applied to the skin in a facial peel or lotion. Applying
glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid, as a facial peel or lotion seems to
improve the appearance of acne scars. Applying 70% glycolic acid in a
series of peels seems to work better than using 15% glycolic acid lotion
daily. However, 15% glycolic acid lotion seems to be moderately effective in
people who cannot tolerate facial peels.

Reducing pain and tenderness caused by fibromyalgia when a specific

alpha

hydroxy

acid,

called

malic

acid,

is

used

in

combination

with magnesium.

Reducing the pigmentation associated with a skin disorder called melasma.

Applying 10% glycolic acid as a lotion for 2 weeks followed by a facial
peeling program using 50% glycolic acid every month for 3 consecutive
months seems to reduce unwanted skin coloration in people with two of the
three types of melasma, epidermal-type and mixed-type melasma. However,
glycolic acid facial peels dont seem to work for the third type of melasma,
dermal-type melasma.

Treating an inherited skin disorder that causes dry, scaly skin (ichthyosis).

D. Contraindications :
Pregnancy and breast-feeding: Alpha hydroxy creams at a concentration of
10% or less are LIKELY SAFE when applied to the skin during pregnancy
and breast-feeding. But dont take malic acid (the form of alpha hydroxy
acids that is generally taken by mouth). Not enough is known about the

safety of malic acid during pregnancy and breast-feeding.

Sensitive skin: Alpha hydroxy acids can worsen skin conditions by causing
skin irritation and removal of the top layer of skin cells.

E. Side Effects :
Alpha hydroxy acids at a concentration of 10% or less as a lotion or cream
are LIKELY SAFE for most people when applied to the skin appropriately
and as directed. In some people, alpha hydroxy acids can make the skin
extra sensitive to sunlight. Be sure to use a sunscreen while using alpha

hydroxy acid products.

Alpha hydroxy acids can also cause mild skin irritation, redness,

swelling, itching, and skin discoloration.

Facial peels, lotions, and creams with a concentration greater than 10%
should only be used under the supervision of a dermatologist. Facial peels
can cause moderate to severe skin irritation, redness, and burning. Facial

peels left on the skin for periods longer than recommended can cause

severe burns to the skin.

When taken by mouth, the alpha hydroxy acid called malic acid
is POSSIBLY SAFE when used short-term. Some people can have side
effects including diarrhea,nausea, and general stomach discomfort

F. DOSING
For treating skin wrinkled and aged by sunlight: Alpha hydroxy acid
products containing lactic acid, tartaric acid, gluconolactone, or glycolic acid (GA)
in 8% concentration are used. The alpha hydroxy acid gluconolactone has also
been used in a 14% solution. These products are usually applied to the skin
twice daily.
For improving the appearance of acne scars: glycolic acid (GA) facial
peels are used. Peels of increasing strength of 20%, 35%, 50%, and 70% are
applied every two weeks. Peels are applied first for 2 minutes and then for a
longer time (up to 4-5 minutes) before applying the next stronger solution.
Completing the series at least 6 times is usually needed before skin looks better.
People who do not like facial peels often use 15% GA lotion daily long-term
instead.
For lightening brown patches due to a condition called melasma: a 10%
lotion of the glycolic acid (GA) is applied with a Sunscreen To Facial Skin Nightly
For 2 Weeks. Then A Peeling Program Is Done Monthly For 3 months in a row.
The peeling program features a 50% GA peel applied three times to the face and
left on for a period of 2-5 minutes each time (first peel 2 minutes, second peel 4
minutes, and third peel 5 minutes).

RESEARCH OF RADIO FREQUENCY TREATMENT

Radio frequency technology is used in medaesthetics in several capacities, most
commonly with face treatments. Other treatments involving radio frequency (RF)
technology are body contouring. Radio frequency treatment is also administered as a
complementary procedure to laser hair reduction. So far as face treatments go the radio
frequency treatment has become known as the "RF face lift" or "Radio Frequency
facial", due to its wrinkle reduction and overall skin rejuvenation capabilities.
A. Benefits :
Radio frequency therapy works in three different ways:
Thermal Energy. The main component of the treatment is thermal
energy, which is delivered deep into the dermal layer of the skin. This
assists in the healing of skin by tightening the skin, promoting collagen
production thus wrinkle reduction, as well as increasing oxygen and
nutrients

availability

which

supports

the

natural

regenerative

processes.

Stimulation. The microcurrent also provides massage-like stimulation

to the surface of the skin. This helps to keep the epidermis healthy.
Massage encourages blood flow to the surface of the skin, giving your
skin that youthful "glow.

Enriched Oxygen. The treatment also involves the emission of

enriched oxygen, a natural cleanser. This part of the therapy counters

the effects of pollution, and helps reduce the appearance of enlarged

pores. This results in a smoother, evenly textured skin surface.

B. Effects
immediate contraction and tightening
the heating of the collagen in the dermis also stimulates the production

of new collagen
the currents passed cause heat to build up in the skin tissue. This heat
works to contract the dermis (the upper skin layer) resulting in wrinkle

reduction (some wrinkles are eliminated all together).

the stimulation of increased collagen and elastin production as well as
increased blood circulation.

C. Indications :

tightening loose skin and improving skin tone

used to treat certain forms of acne scars

on all skin types, including darker skin patients

Skin wrinkling, loss of skin tone

Skin tightening on the cheeks, around the eyes and neck

Treatment of early acne scars

D. Contra indications :.
People with sensory disturbance to the skin may not be considered good
candidates as this could make the reporting of discomfort during the

procedure unreliable, leading to potential harm.

Although there is no evidence that this treatment is harmful for pregnant
women, you would generally be advised to wait until after you have given

birth before embarking upon a course of treatment.

More importantly, people with electrical devices e.g., pacemakers, or
metal implants e.g., artificial metal hip joints, heart valves or dental plates,
cannot be treated because RF current flowing through the body may

interfere with these devices or heat up metal implants, which could be

dangerous..
Current or history of skin cancer, as well as any other type of cancer, or

premalignant moles.
Severe concurrent conditions, such as cardiac disorders.
Impaired immune system, such as AIDS and HIV,

of immunosuppressive medications.
Diseases which may be stimulated by light at the wavelengths used, such

as history of Systemic Lupus Erythematous, Porphyria, and Epilepsy.

Patients with a history of diseases stimulated by heat, such as recurrent

or

use

Herpes Simplex in the treatment area. May be treated only following

a prophylactic regime.
Poorly controlled endocrine disorders, such as diabetes or Poly Cystic

Ovary.
Any active condition in the treatment area, such as sores, psoriasis,

eczema, and rash.

Use of medication and herbs known to induce photosensitivity to
light exposure at the wavelengths used, such as Isotretinoin (Accutane)
within the last 6 months, tetracyclines, or St. John's Wort within the last 2

weeks.
Facial laser resurfacing and deep chemical peeling within the last 3

months, if face is treated.

Any surgical procedure in the treatment area within the last 3 months or
before complete healing.

E. Side Effects :
Side effects are exceedingly rare but include:

Prolonged redness lasting 1-2 days (seen in 2% of patients)

Skin colour changes (most common in dark skin patients)

Patterning of treated skin (temporary and reversible)

REPORT OF COMPARISON (PRODUCT vs TREATMENT)

ALPHA HYDROXY ACID
Benefits :
treating pain and tenderness

associated with fibromyalgia.

for moisturizing and removing dead

skin cells,
for treating acne and improving the

appearance of acne scars

for improving the appearance

RADIO FREQUENCY TREATMENT

Benefits :
tightening the skin
promoting collagen production thus

wrinkle reduction
as well as increasing oxygen and
nutrients availability which supports
the natural regenerative processes

of

photo-aged skin, and firming and

smoothing skin.
to treat extremely dry skin (xerosis),
an inherited disease marked by dry,
scaly skin (ichthyosis), and a condition
that causes darkening of the skin

(melasma).
Effects :
Effects :
Alpha hydroxy acids seem remove the
The immediate effect of this heat is

top layers of dead skin cells.

They can also increase the thickness

to cause the dermal collagen to

contract, giving a skin tightening

of deeper layers of skin, promoting

firmness

effect.
The skin glows and is erythematous
for 12 hours. There is also a slower
progressive effect, where the heat
stimulates more collagen production,
giving a plumper, more rejuvenated

Indications :

Treating sun damage

Treating dry skin when applied to the

skin in a cream or lotion.

Indications :

tightening loose skin and

improving skin tone

used to treat certain forms of acne

scars

Acne

Acne scars when applied to the skin

on all skin types, including darker

skin patients

in a facial peel or lotion. Applying

Skin wrinkling, loss of skin tone

glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid,

Skin tightening on the cheeks,

as a facial peel or lotion seems to

around the eyes and neck

improve the appearance of acne

scars. Applying 70% glycolic acid in

Treatment of early acne scars

a series of peels seems to work

better than using 15% glycolic acid
lotion daily. However, 15% glycolic
acid lotion seems to be moderately
effective

in

people

who

cannot

tolerate facial peels.

Reducing
caused

pain

and

tenderness

by fibromyalgia when

specific alpha hydroxy acid, called

malic acid, is used in combination
with magnesium.

Reducing

the

pigmentation

associated with a skin disorder

called

melasma.

Treating

an

inherited skin disorder that causes

dry, scaly skin (ichthyosis)

Contra indication :
Pregnancy
Breastfeeding
Sensitive skin

Contra indication :
People with

sensory

disturbance

leading to potential harm.

pregnant women
More
importantly,
people

with

electrical devices e.g., pacemakers, or

metal implants e.g., artificial metal hip
joints, heart valves or dental plates,
cannot be treated because RF current
flowing through the body may interfere
with these devices or heat up metal

implants, which could be dangerous..

Current or history of skin cancer, as
well as any other type of cancer, or

premalignant moles.
Severe concurrent conditions, such as

cardiac disorders.
Impaired immune system, such as
AIDS and

HIV,

or

use

of immunosuppressive medications.
Diseases which may be stimulated by
light at the wavelengths used, such
as history

of Systemic

Lupus Erythematous, Porphyria, and

Epilepsy.
Patients with a history of diseases
stimulated by heat, such as recurrent
Herpes Simplex in the treatment area.
may

be

treated

only

following

a prophylactic regime.
Poorly controlled endocrine disorders,
such as diabetes or Poly Cystic

Ovary.
Any active condition in the treatment
area,

such

as

sores,

psoriasis,

eczema, and rash.

Use of medication and herbs known to
induce photosensitivity to

light exposure at the wavelengths

used, such as Isotretinoin (Accutane)
within the last 6 months, tetracyclines,
or St. John's Wort within the last 2

weeks.
Facial laser resurfacing and deep
chemical peeling within the last 3

months, if face is treated.

Any surgical procedure

in

the

treatment area within the last 3

months or before complete healing.