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Table of Contents
intro: Hydraulic Ram Pump . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. 4" PVC Cap
2. 4" x 28" PVC Pipe
3. Brass swing check valve. Should have an arrow on it (indicating normal
direction of flow). This arrow should be pointing TOWARD the pipe connected to
the valve.
4. 1-1/4" Valve
5. 1-1/4" Union
6. 1-1/4" x 3/4" Bushing
7. 3/4" Union (threads to male garden hose!)
8. 3/4" Valve
9. 4" x 2" Reducing Fitting
10. Cans of Primer and Cement
11. Spring Check Valve
12. 1-1/4" Tee
13. 1-1/4" Tee
14. 3/4" pipe, threaded both ends. Make sure that the valve and bushing are also
threaded. Or just use smooth cemented parts all around.
15. 1-1/4" pipe section
16. 1-1/4"x2" Bushing: Outside diameter to match the 4" adapter you buy
17. 1-1/4" Pipe-to-Thread fitting
Image Notes
1. Blue nitrile lab gloves. Handy.
2. Front section glued up
3. Back section gluing up
4. PVC Cement
5. Purple Primer
Image Notes
1. Swinging flapper (but not like the 1920's)
2. SWING check valve
3. SPRING check valve. Same original purpose, different application &
methodology.
Image Notes
1. GUTS! Nah, just bike innertube. Partially inflated, so it's squishy. Pack it
down into the pressure chamber. Prevents waterlogging of the PC.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. 1/4" Pipe Nipple
2. 1/4" Pipe Nipple. But you shouldn't need this one... I don't know why I have it
in there.
3. 1/4" Pipecock
4. 3/4" to 1/4" threaded bushing
5. 3/4" threaded tee
Image Notes
1. PSI Gauge, metal fittings. Probably unnecessary, which could save you $$.
2. Teflon thread tape
Image Notes
1. 4" PVC Cap
2. 4" x 28" PVC Pipe
3. Brass swing check valve. Should have an arrow on it (indicating normal
direction of flow). This arrow should be pointing TOWARD the pipe connected to
the valve.
4. 1-1/4" Valve
5. 1-1/4" Union
6. 1-1/4" x 3/4" Bushing
7. 3/4" Union (threads to male garden hose!)
8. 3/4" Valve
9. 4" x 2" Reducing Fitting
10. Cans of Primer and Cement
11. Spring Check Valve
12. 1-1/4" Tee
13. 1-1/4" Tee
14. 3/4" pipe, threaded both ends. Make sure that the valve and bushing are also
threaded. Or just use smooth cemented parts all around.
15. 1-1/4" pipe section
16. 1-1/4"x2" Bushing: Outside diameter to match the 4" adapter you buy
17. 1-1/4" Pipe-to-Thread fitting
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Spring check valve, flow direction is to the left (toward pressure chamber)
2. Swing check valve, flow direction (arrow) pointing toward PVC pipes
3. First (in terms of water flow) 1-1/4" tee fitting.
4. "Main" tee, connected to pressure chamber eventually.
Image Notes
1. Air compression chamber in place
Image Notes
1. Cut and prepared sections of pipe
2. Primer and Cement
3. Rough-poured concrete that might become purplish
4. The outdoors is very well ventilated
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
it helps.
Most of the pieces go together in a fairly self-explanatory way, but there are a few things to note: on the spring check valve there is an arrow, and you will want this to
point toward the main tee that will have the 4" pipe (air chamber) on it. This allows water to pass through toward the main tee, which you want. With the brass swing
check valve, the arrow should point down toward the tee, and the main line of pipe.
On to the next step for order of assembly!
Image Notes
1. Primer (not purple one in this picture, this might just be a cleaning solvent)
2. Applicator brush for chemical
3. No gloves! Bad me!
4. Already cleaned / primed end of pipe section
Image Notes
1. Blue nitrile lab gloves. Handy.
2. Front section glued up
3. Back section gluing up
4. PVC Cement
5. Purple Primer
Image Notes
1. Purple primer spots on drop cloth
2. Clamp squeezing fittings together
3. Clamp keeping force from other clamp in a straight line over section
4. Potentially unnecessary pressure valve assembly.
5. Connection to pressure tank
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Spring check valve, flow direction is to the left (toward pressure chamber)
2. Swing check valve, flow direction (arrow) pointing toward PVC pipes
3. First (in terms of water flow) 1-1/4" tee fitting.
4. "Main" tee, connected to pressure chamber eventually.
Image Notes
1. Blue nitrile lab gloves. Handy.
2. Front section glued up
3. Back section gluing up
4. PVC Cement
5. Purple Primer
Image Notes
1. 3/4" pipe nipple, threaded both ends. No cement needed, just teflon tape and
torque (via appropriately sized wrench)
2. 3/4" Pipe, threaded as needed. I think only one end is here, as I was only able
to find
3. Connection to the pressure tank.
4. Main tee
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Pressure chamber all together (but not glued yet in this picture)
Image Notes
1. GUTS! Nah, just bike innertube. Partially inflated, so it's squishy. Pack it down
into the pressure chamber. Prevents waterlogging of the PC.
Image Notes
1. Clamp keeps things together
2. The drop cloth is here... and the piece gluing up is not...
Image Notes
1. Teflon tape
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. 1/4" Pipe Nipple
2. 1/4" Pipe Nipple. But you shouldn't need this one... I don't know why I have it
in there.
3. 1/4" Pipecock
4. 3/4" to 1/4" threaded bushing
5. 3/4" threaded tee
Image Notes
1. PSI Gauge, metal fittings. Probably unnecessary, which could save you $$.
2. Teflon thread tape
Image Notes
1. Required cutting 3/4" pipe nipple in half, and inserting tee in the middle. So
those ends of the tee are smooth.
2. Whole assembly, installed.
Image Notes
1. 3/4" pipe nipple, threaded both ends. No cement needed, just teflon tape and
torque (via appropriately sized wrench)
2. 3/4" Pipe, threaded as needed. I think only one end is here, as I was only able
to find
3. Connection to the pressure tank.
4. Main tee
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Note the arrow. May I flog this dead horse some more?
Image Notes
1. 4" PVC Cap
2. 4" x 28" PVC Pipe
3. Brass swing check valve. Should have an arrow on it (indicating normal
direction of flow). This arrow should be pointing TOWARD the pipe connected to
the valve.
4. 1-1/4" Valve
5. 1-1/4" Union
6. 1-1/4" x 3/4" Bushing
7. 3/4" Union (threads to male garden hose!)
8. 3/4" Valve
9. 4" x 2" Reducing Fitting
10. Cans of Primer and Cement
11. Spring Check Valve
12. 1-1/4" Tee
13. 1-1/4" Tee
14. 3/4" pipe, threaded both ends. Make sure that the valve and bushing are also
threaded. Or just use smooth cemented parts all around.
15. 1-1/4" pipe section
16. 1-1/4"x2" Bushing: Outside diameter to match the 4" adapter you buy
17. 1-1/4" Pipe-to-Thread fitting
Image Notes
1. Swinging flapper (but not like the 1920's)
2. SWING check valve
3. SPRING check valve. Same original purpose, different application &
methodology.
Image Notes
1. That's right, just like this.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. High water. Inlet goes here.
2. Assistant!
3. Lower water, pump sits here. Properly installed, you probably shouldn't leave
it in the water. Lots of unfortunate things could happen to it.
4. Outlet hose leaving pump.
Image Notes
1. Stand pipe
2. Pump tilted over: changes pumping dynamics.
Image Notes
1. Water flowing through swing check valve, early in cycle.
2. Holding pump upright for maximum pumping lift
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Hard to see, but that's water being pumped out!
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Another view of water flowing through the swing check valve. Valve may have
just closed in photo.
2. Main line underwater here. Still works just fine.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Valve has closed, water flying into the air. Pressure has just spiked inside
pump body, and water is being forced past the spring check valve.
2. Outlet hose underwater here
Image Notes
1. Swing check valve closed, pressure spiking inside of pipe, water being forced
past spring check valve.
File Downloads
Hydraulic ram pump.3gp (192 KB)
[NOTE: When saving, if you see .tmp as the file ext, rename it to 'Hydraulic ram pump.3gp']
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
To tune this specific design, you take advantage of how gravity acts on the flapper. When the check valve is pointing straight up in the air, the full force of gravity holds
the flapper down, so the water must flow past the flapper faster to generate enough drag to raise the full weight of the flapper. By rotating the pump about the main line,
you put the flapper's degree of freedom at an angle to the force of gravity, so that less drag is required to move the flapper. You could work out all of this fairly easily with
a bit of trig, but I feel it would serve you little use out in the field. Just play around with it, you should find a position that works well for your application.
No Power?
Well, no. This pump derives its power from the potential energy of the water uphill, and by wasting (not in a bad sense) the majority of the water that flows through the
stand pipe. It only pumps a small fraction of the water that actually travels down that pipe. But that's fine if you have a stream already flowing down a hillside. Before, you
weren't doing anything with all that potential / kinetic energy. Now you are. Hooray for you!
Image Notes
1. Stand pipe
2. Pump tilted over: changes pumping dynamics.
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
Image Notes
1. Water flowing through swing check valve, early in cycle.
2. Holding pump upright for maximum pumping lift
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Comments
50 comments Add Comment
I'm getting sick of the "no energy required" crap that I've been reading off of all these hydraulics pumps...
Water flows from a higher point to a lower point always. Basically you could dig a canal to where you needed the water, and the same purpose is served.
Alternatively, get a really really long hose.
Dr_Stupid says:
drbill says:
Yeah lets see you dig a canal that lets water flow UP hill.
habolooby says:
drbill says:
So basically you're harvesting the kinetic energy from the water flowing downhill to make it flow... uphill?
My knowledge of physics is limited, to be sure.
habolooby says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
some other very odd / cool pumping methods out there that can do strange things just using water dropping some distance. Go and google
"pulser pump" if you're interested.
zostedguy says:
eltigre says:
zostedguy says:
eltigre,
Thanks for examining the Giza layout. Only ram pump people understand it.
As far as chamber below the King's chamber being a stand pipe, are you referring to the grand gallery?
The "well shaft" could have been a stand pipe, as it does run with it present. It is anamolous in that it is smaller than the drive pipe, which is not
normal for a standpipe. As can bee seen in the vid, the water level in the well shaft is lower than moat level. This is not normal for rams.
Also, it is not clear if that particular shaft was present upon original construction or not. I added it to the model to demonstrate that it could have
been present and the pump will still run. The well shaft (stand pipe) really reduces efficiency and I much prefer to have it turned off.
The drive pipe isn't particularly long, anyways. A stand pipe isn't really needed. It's about 370' from top of water to subterranean chamber, but
2000' to wastegate.
The vortex chamber hates air. I had to add an air bleeder valve to remove it. This was actually added after I had built it. No snifter is required
because the pulses are stabilized by the sub chamber design.
I had a model which had an air chamber on the output line of sub chamber. (see picture) It really didn't make much difference. Removing it made
the Giza layout much more realistically plausible.
Dr. Jacke Kolle (Godfather modern Hydraulic pulse generators) talked emphatically about how loud the plateau would have been and also how
intensely the King's chamber would have resonated.
My horizontal wastgate wears relatively quickly. Probably get a year out of it. I ran it for 3 months and there was some wear on valve stem and on
the epoxy valve guide (which the valve slides on)
I haven't put a resonator on top of the sub chamber yet. Had the pulse frequency analyzed and it is approximately 50Hz.
The "King's" chamber is specifically designed as a resonating chamber. Several accoustical engineers have done design analysis and agreee on
this point. (Even Paul Horn won a grammy for his recordings within the chamber).
I am certainly interested in further brainstorming and communication on this subject. Only Ed Malkowski understands the vast majority of the
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
research. That's why it is in his next book, "Before the Paraohs, Civilization X"
I attached 3 pictures of my horizontal waste gate. You can see that I built an epoxy slider for the valve movement. This keeps the valve from
dangling and having erratic pulsing and severe wear. One picture shows the output side. It's a normal check valve, but the spring is moved from
holding the valve closed to holding the valve open. The spring isn't really needed, but it is so easy just to move it.
This modified check valve is a round interpretation of what the Giza square waste gate would have been.
I did the submerged horizontal wast gate because this is the best design for Giza. It would have been very easy to excavate the valve area and
then install granite valve slider guides and granite valve seats. With it being horizontal, the intense thrust would have been met with granite (for
wear) and 50' of solid limestone for valve seat backing.
It would have been submerged because of Nile elevation and tunnel location.
So, what I built is COMPLETELY ram pump unorthodox. None of it has been done before as far as I know. Everything I tried was because that is
what the Giza layout demands.
Quite honestly, I didn't think the submerged horizontal wastegate would work. As I've said, it doesn't need the spring. Giza obviously wouldn't
have a spring. The valve is sucked open from the rarefaction wave.
The vortex chamber is also insanely ingenious. Whoever designed this thing is a super genius. (and I'm not talking about myself)
Anyways, I'm very interested in talking with anybody with ideas.
Best,
John
eltigre says:
Hey John,
I see why you suffer wear problems with your horizontal valve. Attached is a design that may help you. I don't think we should hijack
Habolooby's thread here, so if you have any questions, you can ask me via pm or in my pump thread at
http://www.instructables.com/id/Worlds_greenest_water_pump
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
zostedguy says:
Back again,
Here's a relatively "compression wave friendly" elbow. This is pretty good for a round pipe interpretation.
The 2 - 45 degree elbows reflect the compression wave in the right direction and not too beat up.
The basic 90 degree elbow actually reflects a bunch of the compression wave back in the direction it came. Not good. Not to mention those nasty "tees".
I was just looking at the basic ram. If you put a horizontal waste gate where the output line is and then connect the air chamber and output check valve on
the "tee" (where the wastegate is now) THAT would send a nice compression wave straight back up the input. I bet this layout would increase efficiency
dramatically.
Also, fluids flow around this sort of "tee" junction nicely.
This could be "the better ram pum". (OK, maybe not as good as pyramid pump, but significantly better)
If somebody tries this layout, let all of know how it works!
John
zostedguy says:
Here's an old graphic that basically shows how the vortex chamber stabilizes the output.
There is a continual fluid rotation within the room. (The red circular arrows) At Giza, the input jet is shooting across the room at 100 ft/sec
The water may reverse in drive pipe with the compression wave, but he rotation within the room is relatively constant. The roatation is continually thrusting
water towards the output line. Also, the output peaks are dampened because the fluid jet in the room is transferring energy into creating the rotation impulse
and the rotation.
This is just one of the basic dynamics of the sub chamber (vortex chamber). It is so much more complex than this. It incorporates both 3 dimensional fluid
dynamics and sound (compression wave) dynamics within one room.
There's actually 3 layers of flow at the step area.
1. Lower floor in front of step
2. Main step area and the fins
3. Ceiling area (it actually utilizes the ceiling as a flow surface)
Thes guys were super geniuses.
John
mattrobs says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
zostedguy says:
Mattrobs,
For your eventual thesis, maybe you can tackle the following phenomena:
http://www.great-pyramid-giza-pulse-pump.com/Vortex_Anomaly.php
It's not caused by the impuities in the water. I have an idea why it happens, but can't back it. That piece of pipe is still purple today, albeit somewhat
faded.
Also note: In one of the pictures, the waste gate valve is open and no water is coming out. That's the valve sucked open and zero pressure (and zero
water flow) at the wastegate valve because of the compression wave going back up the pipe.
Best,
John
zostedguy says:
Matttrobs,
Standard rams are quirky as far as starting. They require a certain amount of back pressure from the output line. That's why the output has to be 5 - 10x
the head. I've read where people will put a valve on the output side and choke it down to get the back pressure high enough for the pump to start cycling.
(That's why it cycles with no air) With your pump, maybe put the valve between waste gate valve and the pressure chamber. Choke it down until the
pressure builds in the air chamber. Maybe even put one on the output side of the air chamber. Generally, the valve on the output side of the air chamber
is the one that is choked down.
As far as the physics behind the required back pressure, I don't know. Haven't really thought about it, really.
That is the beauty of the pyramid pump. This doesn't matter at all. No air chamber, no back pressure needed, starts first try every try, no fiddling
required, much higher efficiency . . . it is the much better pump.
The pyramid pump is great for lateral tranference which is a phenomenal attribute. (Let's say you have a pond and 3' drop on output creek. A garden
500' away, but same height as pond. Normal ram won't work because same elevation)
Maybe for 2nd year engineering you can tackle the pyramid pump. It has lots and lots of physics involved. The more you study the pyramid pump, the
more you realise the true genius. The fluid dynamics stumped a mechanical engineer from MIT.
Best,
John
pekar says:
habolooby says:
zostedguy says:
Thanks.
I'm not sure where I said the drive pipe is a stand pipe. I know the difference, but may have mislabeled something. Maybe the vid. I think I mistated
something at the beginning.
Best,
John
magickaldan says:
kenputer says:
Just put a small tire tube with about 15 pounds pressure in the stand pipe for expansion.
kenputer
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
habolooby says:
Very good point. That would work great, and it basically comes down to budget considerations.
rimar2000 says:
habolooby says:
rimar2000 says:
Those bombs are really amazing, they are very close to perpetual motion. Your instructable is very well done, too.
waterppk says:
eltigre says:
habolooby says:
rimar2000 says:
frollard says:
mdgnys says:
It has 2 nippels!
fwjs28 says:
tehehe...but it has no breasts :P
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
zostedguy says:
Hi everyone,
****** BIG QUESTION FOR EVERYONE *******
I have no idea about this one:
Is it better to shoot the compression wave (from the wastegate valve) towards the output or input? Maybe shooting towards output would increase efficiency.
I have no idea on this subject with regards to standard hydraulic ram pumps.
Best,
John Cadman
zostedguy says:
Hi,
I'm back again and still doing my very best at not being the least bit negative but being informative. I also believe in simplicity of design. I've made some
ultra-simple ram pumps that worked just fine.
When I started in ram pumps, I had all sorts of misconceptions about all the dynamics of the pump. I was a chief engineer on a King crab boat in Alaska so I
always thought in "fluid dynamics". That's only about 20% correct for hydraulic ram pumps.
On the page:
http://www.great-pyramid-giza-pulse-pump.com/index.php
Check out the water flow out of top line (5:42 minutes into youtube vid) This is with standpipe off. There's no air anywhere in the whole pump assembly. If
you look at the water coming out of the upper pipe, you'll see that it surges a bit, but is CONTINUOUS. Anybody that has run a ram pump with a waterlogged
air chamber knows that this is not supposed to be what happens. No-air means intense surge and stop of water flow in normal rams.
How do you explain it? I've run the basic assembly without the complex vortex chamber. It had the typical intense surge and stop action. The vortex not only
stabilizes the flow but also increases efficiency dramatically.
The vortex chamber also dramatically reduces the pulse that goes out the drive pipe entrance. It captures and redirects the pulse.
I attached a picture of the optimum elbow for compression wave redirection.
Looking at the picture, you can see that the pulse is still uniform. It has the shortest wave length possible and the highest amplitude possible.
A compression wave is the same as a sound wave. By doing the optimum redirection, the pulse is kept at the highest amplitude. HIGHEST AMPLITUDE =
HIGHEST PRESSURE (That's what we want, right?) It is kept as a single, clean pulse.
Now, visualize what happens when a compression wave shoots towards the bottom of a round "tee". The whole pulse is scattered everywhere. It is bouncing
up and down, here and there. The amplitude is significantly reduced. Less amplitude = less pressure
Now couple that random bouncing with the overlapping random bouncing of the rarefaction (negative pressure) wave and there's a giant mess of cancelling
waves. Huge reduction of efficiency.
Looking at the standard fluid elbow, the pulse is now scattered. It's bouncing to-and-fro. It has dissipated immensely.
When you think of compression waves and reflections, think of pool balls on a pool table. It is exactly analagous. The same amount of force that will shoot a
ball straight down and back on a table will get a ball almost no where when bouncing from side to side. A "tee" is all side-to-side. Each time it bounces off a
side, it loses part of it's amplitude. It is being transfered and absorbed by the pipe material.
Ram pumps are all about compression waves and not much about fluid dynamics. These are two completely different dynamics.
If you want to build a better pump then you have to build better plumbing.
I would love to see what people build when they incorporate some of the more "compression wave friendly" plumbing schemes!! I would also love to see the
comparison of the various efficiencies of various simpler pumps.
Best,
John
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
zostedguy says:
OK,
Forgive me if this doesn't attach right. It's my first try with graphics!
There should be 2 graphics: 1. complex ram pump, 2. compression wave/rarefaction wave description.
This is meant in the absolute nicest manner, so PLEASE no one think that I am being negative or criticizing anybodies design. I LOVE the hockey puck
wastegate. It's much more durable than any of my valves. Kudos.
This is about having to research exactly why everything does everything . . . trying to figure out the pyramid design. "Why the diagonal pit offset and the
square pipe???"
#1 thing to understand about ram pumps is compression and rarefaction waves! When the valve slams shut, there is a compression AND rarefaction wave
that travels up the pipe.
The rarefaction is EQUAL and OPPOSITE the compression wave. That means that the pressure is super low when the rarefaction wave leaves the valve.
This literally sucks the valve open immediately. (#4 on picture) (#5 picture shows no water leaving waste gate (even though it's open) as the
compression/rarefaction wave travels up the drive pipe.
(This really messes with my mind, but I have watched it over and over)
#2 The pressure at the wastegate and the line away from the compression/rarefaction wave is 0 (ZERO . . . yes, ZERO!!!) as the compression wave travels
up the drive pipe (This is physics)
So, as that compression wave goes up the pipe, no water goes out the the pipe downhill from wastegate valve (because the pressure is zero). The pressure
doesn't come back until the compression wave hits air (or reflecting surface) and comes back down the line.
This is super important and makes one rethink how the compression wave should be directed. Also, you really have to consider how the compression
wave is redirected. Compression waves bounce like pool balls. THIS IS EXTREMELY IMPORTANT when you look at most ram pumps that have the
wastegate at the top of a "tee". What happens to that wave when it strikes the bottom of the "tee"? It is reflected and scattered upline, downline, to the
wastegate valve . . . pretty much everywhere!! It's a giant mess of scattered compression waves. Is this efficient? Of course not. (and it's mixed with
scattered rarefaction waves . . . which is cancelling)
I attached a photo (hopefully!) of a wild ram pump I built that considers directing of the compression wave. Obviously, you wouldn't use this with a lot of
pressure. The wastegate is on first elbow. Then a standard foot valve (with snifter) and then another swing elbow to shoot the compression wave up to air for
dissapation. (That is a mini-air chamber)
The small brass pipe from air compression chamber to the waste gate is just a hinged weight for holding open the wastegate valve .
This is a concept design for efficient redirection of the compression wave. It ran fine, but I don't have any comparisons with other designs. I actually had this
at the end of my pyramid pump!! : ) I eventually went to the super simple wastegate for the pyramid pump. Much more realistic and efficient design!!
When you look at the pyramid pump layout, the compression wave is brilliantly utilized. Beautiful directing, beauifully reflected at the pit-elbow and then
reflected back down from sub chamber ceiling. Pure waves and not all scattered. Smart, smart design. I may have built it, but I just copied what was at Giza.
Pure genius.
The rotation in the vortex chamber to assist the output is genius.
So, maybe a waste gate could be put on a "Y" at an angle for better redirection instead of on a "tee". Also, a submeged wastegate is a happy wastegate!
Also, fluid elbows make a total mess of compression waves. Nice for fluid flow, but horrible compression wave redirection. Square pipe with 45 degree flat
elbow is best for fluid and compression wave.
This site is about simplicity of dsign and I appreciate that. Just food for thought. Any feedback is certainly welcome.
Best,
John Cadman
(Pyramid pump guy)
alexismex says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
zostedguy says:
zostedguy says:
It is a common ram pump myth that the waste gate valve must exit to air. It works so much better if it is submerged.
The waste gate is not opened by the added springs or weights. It is opened by the rarefaction wave that immediately follows the compression wave.
It is literally "sucked open".
By submerging the valve, the opening of the valve is slowed since it has water on the upper side instead of air. It is also slowed to close because the
valve is surrounded by water and the velocity is dampened. I actually use a modified horizontal foot valve with a light spring preload. I did the
horizontal because this mimics what would have been built at Giza in a rock structure.
The vid on this page shows the wast gate in operation:
http://www.great-pyramid-giza-pulse-pump.com/pulsepump6.php
The pyramid pump has another interesting anomaly: it has a heart beat pulse instead of the standard thump . . thump . . thump
(the fellow in the vid is Dr. Jack Kolle - Godfather of the modern hydraulic pulse generator used in offshore drilling and mining)
It has no air compression chamber and doesn't need it. It has continuous flow because of the vortex in the sub chamber assembly. The vortex
increases the efficiency quite dramatically. The builders were utter geniuses and quite advanced.
It's much more work to build (I have built the standard ram pumps) but the results are really impressive. I really like that it starts without tweaking
output valves, etc. It doesn't matter if ouput is lower and flowing, horizontal and dribbling, elevated and off . . . it always starts first try.
It all has do do with the dimensions of the pipes and the vortex.
The standpipe was for replication of Giza. I personally wouldn't use it and glad I put a valve on it. Also, in sketch, it shows check valve in drive pipe.
It's not needed but was probably at Giza.
This model has about 3 1/2' head and puts out 40 psi.
John
frollard says:
frollard says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8dqtPrLtgFQ
zostedguy says:
habolooby says:
buckmcf says:
Great Instructable, the only thing I would like to see added is a video and an approximate amount of water that it is moving.
habolooby says:
xonox says:
rocketman221 says:
NachoMahma says:
AndyGadget says:
habolooby says:
http://www.instructables.com/id/Hydraulic_Ram_Pump/