What is the Cost of Using Solar Energy

MARCH 15, 2014 BY SOLAR GUY

English: solar PV Second largest Array in UK (Photo credit: Wikipedia)

A techno-economic assessment will prove the economic feasibility and
sense of buying a solar electric system.
First, lets consider grid-tied systems.
If you are planning to buy, build yourself or have built a grid-tied system,
such an evaluation should by all means take into account expected future
price of grid electricity over the period of the guaranteed solar system
lifecycle, along with any potential income from other existing investment
options.
The evaluation of a grid-tied system will provide you with enough data to
compare the overall net income of your investment in solar PV system with
other existing alternative options to invest your money taking into account:

price of solar hardware

installation costs

annual operational expenses

generated free solar energy offsetting these expenses.

By assessing how much money you can save from solar electricity you can
take an informed decision whether it is worth investing in solar electricity or
your money would be better invested in other financial instruments, i.e.
bank accounts or other possible investment options you can find at your
disposal.

First of all, by performing a techno-economic assessment, you are going to

find out:

What is the cost of using solar energy

How to calculate total solar power you need to use and install

How to determine how much area you need to install your PV

modules and which type of PV modules to choose taking into account:

Your solar installation area

Various types of modules available on the market

Your budget

Once you have chosen your type of PV module, you will find out how to
calculate how many PV modules you need to install and the overall cost of
your solar system.
Then you are going to find out:

How to calculate your solar energy production costs

How much you can save by a PV system over its guaranteed life
cycle

The payback period of your system.

The peak photovoltaic power needed to be installed on your roof can be

calculated by the formula:
Installed solar power, Wp = Daily energy target, Wh x PSHx SLF
This formula however can be expressed otherwise:
Daily energy target, Wh = Solar generated electricity, Wh =

= Installed solar power, Wp x PSH x SLF

Lets assume you have an area on your roof, enough to install 30 solar
modules, of rating 150 Wp each. The installed peak solar power of the PV
array is:
Installed solar power = 30 modules x 150 Wp each =
= 4,500 Wp or 4.5 kWp
If you assume system losses factor for your grid-tied system 0.75, and the
average annual value of PSH for your location is 4, then the 30-module
solar array will generate:
Installed solar power x PSH x SLF = 4.5 kWp x 4 x 0.75 = 13.5 kWh of
energy daily
Your possible next step can be to estimate how much money you would get
for this amount of energy.
If for electricity you export to the grid you get paid $0.08 per kWh, then
each day you will get on average:
13.5 kWh x $0.08 per kWh = $1.08,
which means that per year you will get:
365 days x $1.08 per day = $394.2
If you multiply the daily energy offset target by the electricity residential
rate, you will get the money you could save by implementing a grid-tied
solar system.
If your daily energy target is 7.7 kWh and the residential electricity price is
$0.07 per kWh, then you are going to save

7.7 kWh x $0.07 per kWh = $0.54 per day

and
$0.54 x 365 days = $197.1 per year
By comparing these two values you can estimate which option is the
preferred one for you:

Either export the whole solar energy generated to the grid, and get
paid while still using grid electricity and cashing on the difference, or

Export just the surplus of solar energy generated during some hours
of the day to the grid to offset the money you pay the grid when solar
energy is not available, i.e. at night.

It should be noted that annual electricity production might vary from year to
year due to natural variations in weather and climate.
If your utility offers net metering, you will probably get paid the full retail
price for the excess electricity produced by the PV system
Now, lets deal with stand-alone systems.
You will find out how maintenance cost of a stand-alone system is
calculated by the example below.
Lets have as an example the following stand-alone system:

840 Wp installed solar power,

1,012 kWh annual energy output or 2,770 Wh daily energy output,

It is able to charge a 24V-battery bank with capacity of 470 Ah.

The system will require an inverter with rated continuous power of at least
840 W.
If your stand-alone system contains an inverter, it should be replaced after
12-15 years of operation. So, if a stand-alone system has a lifespan of 25
years, the cost for inverter replacement should be included in the
maintenance cost.
If we assume inverter cost of $1 per watt, based on the needed inverter
with 840 W rated continuous power, the inverter will cost:
840 W x $1/W = $840.
Such a price distributed over 25 years of operation will result in average
inverter maintenance costs per year as follows:
$840 ? 25 years = $33.6 or about $34.
More important however are battery maintenance costs.
A lead-acid battery is to be replaced after every 5 years of operation. At the
moment a typical battery price is $1 per Ah.
So, the task is to calculate the costs for batteries during the stand-alone
systems lifecycle.
We assume that the battery cost for the first 5 years is included in the
system cost.
If battery cost of $1 per Ah is assumed, for the next 25 year of the system
lifecycle the costs for a battery bank of 470 Ah would be:
470 Ah x (25 years / 5) x $1/Ah = $2,350.
Such a cost distributed over 25 years of operation will result in the following
average battery maintenance costs per year:

$2,350 / 25 years = $94.

Furthermore we could assume an MPPT charge controller with estimated
price of $700.
MPPT charge controllers come with a typical warranty of 5 years. We could
assume that you would need at least one additional charge controller for
replacement.
Hence, the price of the additional MPPT charge controller average annual
maintenance costs would be:
$700 x 25 years = $28
The total average annual maintenance cost of an off-grid system
comprising a battery, an inverter and a MPPT charge controller would be:
Total average annual maintenance costs =
= Average annual inverter maintenance costs + Average annual charge
controller maintenance cost + Average annual battery maintenance costs =
$34 + $94 + $28 = $156

The next question is how to calculate the energy production

costs.
For a grid-tied system without power backup, to calculate how much money
you can save by selling electricity to the grid you need to assess your costs
for producing solar electrical energy.
For a stand-alone system however, the most important is to buy a system
that matches best your daily energy consumption target. Then on the basis
of the cost of the energy generated, and on the basis of the large amount of
money saved from paying for utility interconnection, you can calculate the
money you save from being off the grid.

The energy production costs averaged over the lifespan of the off-grid solar
system are calculated as follows:
Solar electricity production costs =
[Solar system initial cost + (System lifespan x Operating costs per year)] x
(Annual solar electricity production x System lifespan)
PV system initial cost, a.k.a. CapEx, is the cost for implementing the whole
system, including: site survey, system design, construction works, obtaining
permits, equipment delivery and installation, and system commissioning

System lifespan is assumed 25 years

Operating costs, a.k.a. OpEx per year, are system maintenance

costs. The most essential part of the operating costs is related to
battery and inverter replacement. During a 25-year lifecycle the
inverter should be replaced at least once, the charger controller might
be replaced at least once, while the battery should be replaced every
5 years.

Costs for implementing an off-grid system are always higher than costs for
implementing a grid-tied system without power backup due to the higher
complexity of the former.
If system implementation cost is estimated $7 per watt-peak and the
installed solar power is 840 Wp, the initial cost of the solar system is:
$7/Wp x 840Wp = $5,880.
Furthermore if:

System lifespan is 25 years,

Yearly generated energy is 1,012 kWh under existing environment

conditions, and

OpEx is $156 as described in the section about calculating showing

the average annual maintenance costs,

the energy production costs over total lifespan of the solar system are
calculated as follows:
Solar electricity production costs =
= [Solar system initial cost + (System lifespan x Operating costs per year)]
x (Annual solar electricity production x System lifespan) =
= [$5,880+ (25 years x $156)] x(1,012 kWh x 25 years) = $0.39/kWh,
which results into annual costs incurred by solar generated electricity as
follows:
Annual solar electricity production x Energy production costs =
= 1,012 kWh x $0.39/kWh = $395

Now, its time to asses how much you could save from being
off the grid.
Lets say you have to pay $8,000 to get connected to your local utility grid.
Lets also assume the current grid electricity price of $0.125, along with a
5% rate of increase thereof.
This means that for a period of 25 years the average grid electricity price is
$0.25, while at the end of those 25 years the grid electricity price will be
$0.42.
If the energy generated annually by your system is 1,012kWh, then upon
average grid electricity price of $0.25 which corresponds to current

electricity price of 0.125 raised with 5% per year, within 25 years you would
pay for grid electricity:
1,012 kWh x 25 years x $0.25/kWh = $6,325
So, the total cost for getting connected to the utility grid and use the grid
electricity to cover your daily energy needs would be:
$8,000 + $6,325 = $14,325.
The just calculated value is actually the total savings from being off the grid
during the systems lifecycle.
Your annual spend on grid electricity would be
$14,325 / 25 years of operation = $573.
The just calculated value is actually the annual savings from being off
the grid or in other words your potential annual expenses on grid
electricity.
As a follow-up of the above example, your annual cost incurred by solar
generated electricity would be:
Solar electricity production costs x Annual solar electricity production =
$0.39/kWh x 1,012KWh = $395.
So, within a 25 year period you would save annually:
Annual spend on grid electricity Annual costs incurred by solar generated
electricity = $573 $395= $178.
Here comes the ultimate question: what is the payback period of an off-grid
system?

Considering the above examples, if solar system implementation costs are

$5,880, and your potential annual expenses on grid electricity are $573, the
payback period of the solar system, compared to the situation if you were
connected to the grid, would be:
System payback period, years =
[Solar system initial cost + (System lifespan x Operating costs per year)] x
Annual spend on grid electricity = ($5,880 + (25 years x $156)) ? $573 = 17
years.
If your odds to be connected to the grid however are from zero to none,
and hence calculating payback period in regard to grid does not suit you,
you might want to explore the payback period of your off-grid system with
included maintenance expenses. In such a case the payback period of your
system would be:
System payback period, years =
[Solar system initial cost + (System lifespan x Operating costs per year)] x
Annual cost incurred by solar generated electricity = ($5,880 + (25 years x
$156)) ? $395 = 25 years.
If the herein provided method for estimating feasibility of your investment in
solar energy looks kind of cumbersome, you can use our handy, simple and
fast online calculator included in the Gold Package for advanced evaluation
of off-grid systems. Click Here to Discover More about Solar Gold Package.
You may also like: Can Solar Panels Power A House or Do Solar Panels
Save You Money or How Many Solar Panels Do I Need or Uses of Solar
Energy

MPPT Solar Charge Controllers

MPPT solar charge controllers are used when the voltage of the solar panels is
significantly greater than the required charging voltage. For example, if you wish to
use a 200W grid-tie panel to charge a 12V battery, the voltage of the panel will be
about 30V and 7A, but the charge voltage for the battery only 14V. In this case, if you
use a standard PWM controller, when the voltage is reduced, the power production
in watts also reduces (from 200W to about 100W).
MPPT controllers overcome this problem by being able to optimise the charge
voltage and current, not just changing the voltage as PWM controllers do. To do this,
MPPT charge controllers typically store charge within them and boost the current of
the charge output as and when needed, optimising the available power input with the
charging output. By doing this, they are able to increase the amount of charge
current by up to 30% (dependent on the degree of voltage change required). MPPT
charge controllers are, however, more expensive.

Inverters, Chargers and Backup Generators

AC-DC inverters are used to convert 12V or 24V supplies to 240V allowing you to
use mains operated electrical devices on boats or in your caravan or motorhome.
There is a wide range of inverters available on today's market, many of which are
cheap imports which often fail quickly or cause damage to equipment. Unlike cheap
imports, we only supply inverters from respected manufacturers and their inverters
are guaranteed to give good service and long lifetimes.
There are two types of unit: a) modified sine wave inverters, and b) true / pure
sine wave inverters. Most standard electrical devices, such as kettles and radios,
can be used with the cheaper MSW type. Other devices, such as high quality audio
equipment, flourescent lighting and devices with digitial timing circuits (e.g. digital
microwaves and washing machines) can only be used with the TSW type. If in doubt,
please ask before buying. For grid-tie solar inverters for installers and dealers,
please visit our trade solar section.
Please be aware that when using an inverter, it should be connected directly to the
battery bank and the battery bank must be of sufficient size to be able to cope with
the potentially high current draw of the inverter. Theoretically, a current of 1A on the
AC side of the inverter can become 20A on the DC side (A = V x W).
Inverter Size

Typical Battery Bank Size (12V)

1000W

420Ah

1500W

540Ah

2000W

750Ah

2500W

1000Ah

24V Solar Panel Systems

Given that many people nowadays are using 24V (24 volt) solar panel
systems espcailly on boats and yachts, you would expect that it would be very easy
to set up a 24V solar system. However, a quick trawl of the internet quickly highlights
that nearly everything written talks about 12V systems and that it is very difficult to
find good information about using 24 volts.
The primary problem is that all charge controllers, whether PWM or MPPT
technology, are simply not capable of significantly increasing the system voltage
without losing power. Whilst thet claims of some manufacturers that their MPPT
controllers can charge a 24V battery using 12V panels are true, the power loss
remains untenable. The only reliable way of using solar panels with a 24V battery
bank is to ensure that the solar array is at 24V or higher. In this case, the charge
controllers can drop the voltage without losing significant amounts of power.
The range of 24V+ solar panels designed for off-grid use is, unfortunately, not
particularly wide at the more cost-effective end of the market. Sunware do
manufacture 24V panels at 48W and 70W, but there is a price attached. Other
manufacturers, such as Yingli and Kyocera, manufacture a wide range of 'grid-tie'
panels that operate at 24V plus, but again these are more expensive products. In
short, there is no easy answer and a 24V solar panel installation is always going to
be more expensive. There are of course benefits, such as reduced voltage losses
and cable sizes, but these may well be overshadowed by the cost penalty.
To install a 24V system using standard off grid panels, it is necessary to wire the
panels in 'series pairs'. For example, wiring two 100W 17V (5.9A) panels in series
will result in a solar array of 200W and 34V (still 5.9A):

Another important factor to bear in mind when looking at 24V systems is that their
are different types of electrical devices, some which operate at a constant current
and others with a fixed power consumption in watts. Generally, while many people
do talk in amps or amp-hours, it is much more meaningful if we use watts and watthours in our calculations - this is a much more realistic figure for power consumption
as opposed to current draw (amps).
Whilst at first glance it may seem as though a 24V system is producing less power
than a 12V system with the same number of panels, the truth is that this is only really
true if we are talking about current production in amps. In most instances, the
combined wattage of the panels is the same regardless of system voltage. Only
where a device operates at a fixed current, independent of the voltage do we start
seeing changing wattages:
Constant consumption:
120W@12V = 10A
::
Constant current:
10A @ 12V = 120W ::

120W @ 24V = 5A
10A @ 24V = 240W

Contact us at Cleversolar for help and advice or a look at our Solar Panels Advice
& FAQs to find out more about 24 volt solar panel systems.

How Many Solar Panels Do I Need?

How many solar panels do I need is one of the most frequently asked
questions by solar enthusiast.
We suppose that you have already made your home or office more energy
efficient and that you know the different types of solar panels available in
the market .
The right choice of the solar panel type is very important.
It predetermines the number of solar panels, because every solar panel
type shows different efficiency in converting solar energy to DC power.
Having said that, lets go straight to the point.
First, you should calculate your daily energy target.
You have to decide what percentage of your annual electricity bill you want
to offset to your grid tied system.
Lets say your annual energy usage is 7,000 kWh. You want to offset 40%
of it to a grid-tied system.
This means that energy target is:
7,000 kWh x 0.40 = 2,800 kWh
Since there are 365 days in a year, your daily energy target is:
2,800 / 365 = 7.7 kWh

If you know your daily energy target and the average annual PSH (Perfect
Sun Hours) value for your area, you can calculate the amount of peak
power you need to install on your roof:
Installed peak solar power = Daily energy target/(SLF*PSH)
SLF is the System Losses Factor, a.k.a system efficiency ,which takes into
account system losses or system inefficiency. For a grid-tied system
system efficiency is assessed usually between 70% and 80%. This means
that we lose (20-30)% of the energy in the system and our panels must
have higher installed peak power so as to compensate for those loses.For
an off-grid system the system efficiency is somewhere between (50-65)%.
If your daily energy target is in Wh, then you obtain the peak solar power in
Wp (watts-peak). If daily energy target is in kWh, you obtain the peak solar
power in kWp (kilowatts-peak).
PSH is abbreviated from Perfect Sun Hours and refers to the number of
hours per day during which the solar irradiance equals 1,000 W/m2. PSH
are measured in kW/m2/day and it can be found by using solar maps.
By NREL (National Renewable Energy

Laboratory of the United States Department)

(http://www.nrel.gov/gis/solar.html) [Public domain], via Wikimedia CommonsIf your

daily energy target offset is 7.7 kWh, the area you live has an average

annual PSH = 4.5 hours, and you assume system efficiency = 75% 0r SLF=
0.75, then the needed total peak installed power is:
7.7 kWh / (4.5 hours x 0.75) = 2.28 kWp or
This is the installed peak solar power needed to generate the required
energy target.
At this stage it is important to assess how much area you need to install the
solar array. Based on your energy needs, you can determine whether the
area of your roof would be enough to fit all the panels needed. Here we
dont talk about a specific panel model but rather about solar panel type
monocrystalline, polycrystalline or thin-film.
The area required for installing the solar array, so that your PV system
would meet the energy offset target, depends on:

Peak power installed on the roof (in kWp or Wp)

The kind of modules you use (monocrystalline, polycrystalline, thinfilm).

To estimate the area you need to install the required peak power, you
should use the following table:
How to estimate the area you need to

install the required solar peak power

The required roof area is calculated by the formula:

Total area needed =
= Installed solar power in kWp x Area needed for 1 kWp

a) If your target peak power is 2.28 kWp, and you decide to

use monocrystalline solar modules, the area you need is:
2.28 kWp x 7 m2 = 15.96 m2 or 2.28 kWp x 75 ft2 = 171 ft2
b) In case you prefer to use polycrystalline solar modules, the area you
need is:
2.28 kWp x 8 m2 = 18.24 m2 or 2.28 kWp x 86 ft2 = 196.08 ft2
c) Should you decide to buy thin-film solar modules, the area you need is:
2.28 kWp x 15 m2 = 33.87 m2 or 2.28 kWp x 161 ft2 = 367.08 ft2
Finally, to find out how many solar panels you need, you should divide the
total installed power by the rated power of a single panel you are going to
buy, and round the result up to the nearest integer.
For example, if you have chosen to buy panels of 160 Wp rated power
each, the number of panels required is:
2,280 Wp / 160 = 14.25, which should be rounded up to 15.
Please, have in mind that such a number is reasonably exact for budgeting
purposes only.
The reason is that solar panel output power changes with temperature and
solar (sun) energy deviation. Such power output deviation forms the
operating window of a solar panel or solar array.
Furthermore depending on the solar power system you use, the next to the
solar panel component which can be either a charge controller or an
inverter, has its own operating input window as well.

To provide an efficient energy delivery to the loads in your home or office

over time, the operating window of the solar array formed by these solar
panels should be always within the operating input window of either
charge controller or the inverter (depending on the solar system type) and
match the capacity of the battery bank (if any needed).
You can estimate the number of solar panels needed for your solar power
system by using our free solar panel calculator .
You can find even more money saving solar information and more precise
calculators helping to build or buy an affordable yet efficient solar power
system in our informational Solar packages. Click Here to learn more
about our Solar Packages Now!

Mixing solar panels Dos and Donts

Mixing solar panels of various voltage or wattage, or produced by different
manufacturers, is a frequently asked question by most DIYers.
Though mixing different solar panels is not recommended, its not forbidden
and things would be ok as long as each panels electrical parameters
(voltage, wattage, amps) are carefully considered.
When you intend to wire two panels produced by different vendors, the
vendors actually are not the problem. The problem is in different electrical
characteristics of the panels, together with different performance
degradation.
Solar modules are connected in series to obtain higher output voltage. The
maximum system voltage however must not be exceeded.
For modules connected in series total power is calculated as follows:

Mixing solar panels in series

Total connected power = 150W + 150W + 150W + 150W = 600W

However if among modules connected in series a module has rated power
lower than the other modules, due to lower rated current of this panel
compared to the other modules belonging to this string, that module might
drag the overall system output down:

Mixing different solar panels in series

Solar modules are connected in parallel to obtain higher output current.
For PV modules connected in parallel total power is calculated as follows:

Mixing solar panels in parallel

Total connected power = 150W + 150W + 150W + 150W = 600W
Unlike connection in series, if among modules connected in parallel there is
a module of power output lower than the output of the other modules, this
might not affect seriously the total power output of the array,provided that
this module has equal to the other modules rated voltage:

Mixing different solar panels in

parallel
Maximum voltage on a string of modules must always be lower than
maximum input DC voltage of the inverter.
When connecting different solar modules, its not the different wattage, its
actually the current (for series connection) and voltage (for parallel
connection) that could drag down the performance of the solar array
composed of those modules.
Only solar panels of exact or similar current should be wired together in
series. When you connect a 3A panel to a 3.5A panel, the overall current
will be dragged down to 3A. Such a reduction in current will by all means
lead to a reduction in power output and therefore loss in system
performance.
Similarly only solar panels of exact or similar voltage should be wired
together in parallel. When you connect a 15V panel to a 24 V panel, the
overall voltage will be dragged down to 15 Volts. Such a reduction in
voltage will lead to a reduction in power output and therefore loss in system
performance.
Compared to voltage and current, wattage is not a significant concern.
When you wire together a 60W panel to a 100W panel in series, the total
connected power would be 160W, provided that the two panels are of equal
current.

Here any difference in voltages is not important, voltages with just sum up
and all youve got to consider is that the total voltage should fall within the
inverter voltage window.
If their current ratings are different however, you should be prepared to
expected unpleasant surprises, since the overall current would be the lower
of the two, which will means that youre not going to obtain a total of 160W
but always less. How much less depends on difference in rated currents.
Furthermore when you wire together a 60W panel to a 100W panel in
parallel, the total connected power would be 160W, provided that the two
panels are of equal voltage. Here any difference in currents is not
important, currents with just sum up and all youve got to consider is that
the total current should not exceed the maximum inverter input current.
If their voltage ratings are different however, you should be prepared to
expected unpleasant surprises, since the overall voltage would be the
lower of the two, which will means that youre not going to obtain a total of
160W but always less.
How much less depends on difference in rated voltages.
Why it is not recommended to connect different solar panels?

Apart from rated power, each panel has a power degrade

percentage.
This means solar panels output degrade in a different way over time.
Moreover the stated degradation not always coincides with what is
written on a panels nameplate. Therefore its not easy to find an exact
panel match of different solar vendors. Exact match means both
almost similar ratings and ratings degradation.
For panels connected in series, voltage is additive while current is the
same, provided however that all the panels have equal current rating.
If among the panels connected in series there is a panel with rated
current lower than the others, it will drag down the current passing

through all the remaining panels.

Therefore each of the remaining panels (with higher current rating) will
underperform which means that will produce lower current (and
power) than stated on its nameplate.
In other words if two dissimilar modules are wired in series, the
voltage is still additive, but the current will be equal to the current
produced by the panel with the lowest current output in the series
string.

For panels connected in parallel, current is additive while voltage is

the same. If among the panels connected in parallel there is a panel
with rated voltage lower than the others, it will drag down the voltage
on all the remaining panels.
Therefore each of the remaining panels (with higher current rating) will
underperform which means that will produce lower voltage (and
power) than stated on its nameplate.

Mixing solar panels with different electrical characteristics is not

recommended if you use an MPPT charge controller. Different
wattages make impossible for the controller to find the optimal
operating voltage and current, since they are different for each panel
type.

The solution is simple: utilize panels that have similar electrical

characteristics to the original panels.
Therefore, when connecting different solar panels, to minimize the losses:

Connect only in series panels of the same brand and of the same
current

Connect only in series panels of the different brands and of the same
current-this is your second option if for whatever reason you cannot
find the same brand panels

Connect in parallel panels of the same brand and of the same

voltage

Connect in parallel panels of different brands and of the same

voltage-this is your second option if for whatever reason you cannot
find the same brand panels

Connecting different solar panels with the same array is not

recommended since either the voltage or the current might get
reduced. Therefore if you are planning to use dissimilar panels, try to
pick the ones with similar voltage and current.

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Maximizing the Output from Solar Modules

MAXIMIZING THE OUTPUT FROM SOLAR

MODULES
5 December, 2013Mike
234
0

by Publitek European Editors:

Monitoring is the key to unlocking the energy production of the
solar cell. It is easy to lose efficiency through the use of circuit
architectures that assume constant energy production when
the solar environment is constantly changing.
The change in current-voltage properties as a solar module
heats up or receives more light can be an important source of
efficiency losses in solar arrays. If the inverter that generates
grid-compatible electricity is not tuned to the output voltage
and current conditions, it will waste more of the electricity than
it should. In response, electronics companies have produced
ICs that perform the maximum power-point tracking (MPPT)
needed to optimize energy conversion as well as bypass
electronics to prevent temporarily unproductive modules from
disrupting the output of active cells.

Costly Solar Mistakes Related to Solar Site

Survey

This article reveals the major solar mistakes related to performing solar site
survey and location assessment for eventual deployment of a solar panel
system. Please read it carefully because neglecting described below
mistakes may drain down your solar budget.
Performing a site survey is the starting point of launching every
photovoltaic system.
When searching for appropriate site for installation of PV modules, the
following is to be considered:
Orientation towards the sun
Lack of any shading obstacles (during the whole day and throughout the
whole year!)
Minimization of the length of the DC cables between the PV array and the
inverter
Aesthetics
Protection from theft and vandalism
Easy access for installation and maintenance of the PV array
Certainly the greatest mistake is to completely neglect the need for site
survey and expecting that a solar vendor will do that for you. Yes, they
willbut why not be better prepared to:
Abandon your solar project due to bad location,
Learn the performance limits of the system that will be installed at your
site,
Find out how much your solar project will cost, or
Avoid getting ripped off by an unconscious solar vendor?
1) Ignoring the influence of the nearby objects
The PV array should be provided with clear and unobstructed access to
sunlight between 9 a.m. and 3 p.m. every day, throughout the year. Mind
that even small shadows can affect severely the power output of the PV
array.

To achieve the maximum of your shading analysis, do the survey during a

bright and sunny day, preferably in summer when trees have their full
foliage mass.
During the site survey you should be looking for the following obstacles:
Buildings certainly you should be informed whether a new building is not
being planned nearby, throwing shade to your site;
Chimneys, power lines, poles, hedges and neighboring roofs;
Trees if youre performing your site survey in winter, remember than in
summer trees look different than in winter;
Hills and other earth obstacles mind that in winter sun is much closer to
the horizon than in summer.
A site that is unshaded during a part of the day might be partially shaded
during other time of the day. Similarly, if a site is unshaded in summer, it
might be shaded in winter since in winter sun is lower than in summer (and
close to the horizon) and casts longer shadows.
2) Underestimating the roof condition
Solar systems can be installed on any roof type.
There are two options for installing solar modules either mounting them
on the roof or replacing the roof tiles with solar modules.
As a rule roofs with composition shingles are the easiest to work with, while
those with slate are the most difficult ones.
If solar modules are mounted on the roof, this has the following drawbacks:
Modules must be removed upon performing any roof repair or
replacement activity;
Installation of brackets and racks could cause roof leaks;
Roof warranty may be affected;
Some people might find this unattractive.

Roof-integrated installation costs amount however up to 40% more than

roof-mounted installation.
If your roof is relatively old and needs to be replaced in the near future, in
order to minimize any redundant costs a smart idea would be to replace it
at the time the PV system is being installed.
If you have a new roof, consult both your PV provider and roof repair
company how installation of a PV system will affect your roof warranty.
Certainly PV modules can be placed on the ground as well, on a fixed or
tracking mount.
3) Miscalculating the available roof area
Usually access space around the modules adds up to 20 % to the required
area for placing solar modules.
Dont try to use every last square inch on your roof to install a solar array
because:
The array gets difficult to install;
The array gets hard to maintain;
Wind loading at the edge of the roof increases;
From a regulatory point of view you could violate some provisions for
providing available space for fire-fighters and other personal that might
need to access the roof area.
Consider the dead spaces around the array. These are the spots that are
either shaded or need to be left between the modules.
4) Choosing wrong orientation and tilt of the solar array
For grid-direct systems the orientation and tilt angle of the solar array is
usually subject of roof orientation and slope.

Use compass to check what direction your roof faces. Use a spirit level to
measure the angle of the roof from the horizontal.
If your site is located in the northern hemisphere, you should look towards
south, east and west. If your location is in the southern hemisphere, you
should look towards north, east and west. If you live near the equator, you
should look towards east and west.
The ideal roof for mounting your PV array is a roof facing south if you live in
the northern hemisphere, and facing north if you live in the southern
hemisphere.
Having chosen the right orientation, you have three options for tilting the
solar panels, certainly if your roof or installation area permits:
For average yield throughout the year;
For maximum yield in winter;
For maximum yield in summer.
Solar energy differs from month to month and from season to season. This
is also true for suns position in the sky. That is why you have to choose in
advance between the above mentioned options.
For example, if your solar panels are tilted for maximum production in
winter, it means that the chosen tilt ensures solar rays to fall almost
perpendicularly onto solar panels only in winter.
For average yield throughout the year your solar panels should be tilted to
an angle equal to the latitude (in degrees) of your location.
For maximum yield in winter your solar panels should be tilted to an angle
equal to the latitude of your location minus 15 degrees.
For maximum yield in summer your solar panels should be tilted to an
angle equal to the latitude of your location plus 15 degrees.
How to find fast and easy the latitude of your location?

Just go to Wikipedia and search for your location. Then look at the top of
the right corner where locations coordinates are reported. The first left
number is latitude of your location, followed by the longitude. If you cannot
find your city in Wikipedia, just find the closest big city to it.
Lets imagine that you live in Birmingham, Alabama (USA), and you are
curious to find what tilt angels should be for the three available options:
From Wikipedia we get:
So the latitude of Birmingham is 33.525. Therefore the three solar tilt
angles for the three above described options are as follows:
For average yield throughout the year: -33.5
For maximum yield in winter: -18.5
For maximum yield in summer: -48.5
6) Improperly chosen mounting of the solar array
There are four types of mounting methods:
(Sloped-) Roof mounting,
Flat roof/ground mounting,
Roof-integrated mounting and
Wall mounting
The PV array mounting type should be selected by carefully considering:
Orientation towards the sun
Site shading
Weather at the location
Roof material and bearing capacity (in case of roof mounting)
Soil type and condition (in case of ground-mounting)
Regarding solar array mounting constructions, mind the following:
Not every mounting construction is suitable for any kind of module, while
certain kinds of modules are intended for a specific mounting;
Its a good plan to ask the supplier of the PV modules to install them on

the roof;
To ensure sufficient cooling of the PV modules, enough room should be
provided beneath them;
A design visa and/or a build permit might be required
All the necessary construction regulations are to be complied with.
11) Ignoring the benefits and drawbacks of solar tracking [1]
Use of solar tracker is another option for squeezing more power from the
sun. A solar tracker follows the sun position and movement in the sky and
ensures maximum collection of sun energy by solar panels.
The average efficiency of solar tracker is reported to increase the total
production yelled of 25-45%.
Although adding to the overall system costs, residential solar trackers do
not need much maintenance. More important however is that every solar
tracker is a potential point of failure. Furthermore a solar tracker consumes
extra power. What you should also have in mind is that there might be
some local regulations that prohibit the use of solar trackers.
Solar trackers are recommended especially in cases of limited space where
customer wants to achieve maximum solar array performance.
Source:
1. http://energyinformative.org/solar-panel-tracking-systems

Can Solar Panels Power a House?

What Can Solar Panels Power in My Home ?
Whether a solar electric system can entirely replace the utility grid and
meet your daily energy needs depends on your daily consumption.

If your home is already connected to the utility grid, replacing completely

the utility with a PV system might NOT be cost-effective.
Offsetting a part of your electrical bills through a solar system however
could be the best way to save money on electricity.
While you take your connection to the local utility grid for granted, solar
produced electricity is more expensive because your costs for solar
electricity production are higher than the costs of your utility grid for
producing electricity.
Therefore before implementing a solar system you should try to reduce
your daily electrical consumption. You should start with increasing energy
efficiency of your home or office. Achieving energy efficiency means
reducing electrical consumption and your monthly electricity bills
respectively.
Yes, saving energy is less expensive than producing energy. By improving
energy efficiency the cost of the photovoltaic system you are going to install
will be reduced.
Electrical heating appliances (dishwashers, washing machines, electrical
boilers, tumble driers) are not recommended to be powered by photovoltaic
systems.
For each heating appliance you should find a proper both energy-efficient
and cost-effective alternative. As a matter of fact, heat is always an
expensive source.
Actually you could power all those devices by solar electricity. You will
rarely see anyone do that however since heating devices are known as
power-hungry. This means that powering heating devices by photovoltaics
turns out to be very expensive.

Calculating your daily consumption

Calculating your daily electricity consumption is a step to both reaching
energy efficiency and implementing a solar electric system.
Since an off-grid is not connected to the grid, it is irrelevant to talk about
offsetting a part of your energy consumption to the PV system. The PV
system should be able to meet all of your daily energy needs.
Calculating your daily electrical consumption means performing a load
analysis determining your daily electrical energy consumption in Wh (or
kWh).
Performing a load analysis is very important since your PV system should
be neither oversized (=waste of time and money) nor undersized (=useless
for you).
To calculate your total average daily load you need to determine the
amount of energy (in kWh) consumed by each AC load. Therefore you
need to know the rated power of each load, the amount of time it is used
each day and the number of day this device is used each week.
You can find the power rating of each device on its label. If only current (in
Amps) is stated, multiply it by the voltage to get the power consumed. You
get the energy needed for every device by multiplying the power by the
number of hours the device is on.
By looking at the list of devices and consumed energy, you will get the idea
which of them consume the most energy and either think about ways for
reducing the consumption or discuss possible alternatives.
Example: AC loads table for a summer house:

solar daily consumption estimation

Total power = Rating x Qty

Average daily use = (Total power x Hours use per day x Days of use per
week) ? 7 days per week
If we assume a value of 0.92 for inverter efficiency, and the total average
daily load is 0 (i.e. no DC devices are used), the daily energy target is
calculated by the formula: Daily energy target = = (Total average AC load ?
Inverter efficiency) + Total average DC load = = (1,646 ? 0.92) + 0 = 1,789
Wh = 1.789 kWh
Instead of doing these calculations this manually, you could automate the
process by our Load Analysis Tool. Click Here to Learn More About this
Tool
The Load Analysis Tool performs all the above calculations. Thus you can
directly use the values obtained in off-grid system basic evaluation.

What to do if your daily consumption is too high?

If your daily consumption of electricity is more than 2.5 kWh or if you live in
a region with poor sunlight for long periods, a purely photovoltaic off-grid
system cannot meet your energy needs. In such a case hybrid systems are
recommended.
A backup power generator modifies a stand-alone (that is, purely
photovoltaic) system into a hybrid one.

You could actually do without a backup generator in a photovoltaic-only

system but at higher cost by oversizing your stand-alone PV system and
choosing a battery bank with very large capacity.
Such a strategy however is highly impractical for two reasons:
Extremely high initial cost on batteries
Such a system will work with maximum performance just a few months a
year (probably in winter) while in the rest of the time it will work far below its
maximum efficiency. Therefore the value of the electricity produced will be
probably not enough to cover the expenses needed for maintenance
support of the battery bank.
A hybrid system is a combination of photovoltaic generator and alternative
power generator operating by wind or fuel. Such a generator charges the
batteries upon lack of sunlight and is used either as backup or in case the
PV system alone cannot meet specific energy demands.
Here is a simplified view of a hybrid system:

Here are the advantages of a hybrid system:

Electricity is available at an acceptable cost during long periods of

cloudy/rainy weather or in winter

You can power some of the power-hungry devices (not all however!)
in your house

You could buy smaller (less expensive) battery bank and inverter

What about the disadvantages of a hybrid system:

Additional costs required for fuel and maintenance

Higher costs for buying fuel generator and bigger battery charger

So, when you should buy a hybrid system rather that a purely solar electric
one:

When sun is not enough during some months of the year, so a PV

system cannot cope alone with your energy needs

When you want to lower your initial costs

When the access to your house is difficult and/or expensive

When maintenance costs are not a problem

When you demand that electricity must be available all the time

Click here to discover how to get more details about hybrid systems.
So, if you live away enough from a utility grid, and you consider buying a stand-alone PV system,
first of all you should answer the following questions:

What applications do I need to power?

Above all you should mind that a PV system is not economically beneficial
to be used for powering heating appliances. Therefore you should find a
good alternative solution for heating, cooking and refrigeration.

Have I already made your building energy-efficient? Are my loads as

efficient as possible?

Do I live in my house during all the year, or just during certain

seasons?

If you live in your building in winter and your energy consumption is as

much as in summer, a more cost-effective solution would be a hybrid
system.
It will reduce your initial costs on batteries and, most probably, PV modules.

Solar Power Systems For Your Home Or

Business
MAY 23, 2013 BY SOLAR GUY LEAVE A COMMENT

Solar electric (photovoltaic) systems generate electricity from solar energy.

The solar generated electricity can be used in your home/office and/or
exported to the utility grid. Therefore solar power systems are divided in
two main types connected to the grid, or grid-tied, and disconnected to
the grid, also known as off-grid.
The main components of grid-tied systems are solar panels and inverter.
Grid-tied systems only operate when utility grid is on. In case of utility grid
failure a grid-tied system stops cannot generate electricity unless it is
provided with power backup. Grid-tied systems are less expensive than offgrid system and require less maintenance.
Apart from solar panels most off-grid solar electric systems contain a
battery and a battery managing device called charge controller. Inverter is
not needed if an off-grid system has to provide power to DC loads only.

Typically off-grid solar systems are more expensive both as initial cost
and maintenance costs.
If an off-grid system does not contain any other power generators, it is
called stand-alone. Stand-alone systems are used when daily electricity
needs of a household or office are up to 2.5 kW. If daily needs exceed
2.5kW, a purely photovoltaic system is usually not cost effective, and hybrid
system is a better option to go for. A hybrid system contains at least one
more power generator apart from the solar array this might be a wind
generator or a diesel generator.
Grid-tied systems are used to reduce your monthly electricity bills. Off-grid
solar system are built in areas where getting connected to a utility grid is
either impossible or not cost-effective. A solar system has a lifecycle of
between 25 and 30 years and it appears a good investment to meet your
future energy needs in a long-term period.
The problem however is that initial cost of photovoltaic systems and their
components are still relatively high. You have your daily energy needs and
you want to buy a solar system meeting them as cost-effectively as
possible. Apart from your budget available however, there are some other
limitations. You have a limited roof area and you dont know how beneficial
is the sun at your location for investing a large sum of money into a solar
system. Last but not least your site might turn out to be not suitable for
installing a solar system.
An option is to call a vendor and having all the things evaluated. But how to
select the right solar vendor? How to avoid all those unfair guys who are
eager to take advantage of your lack of solar knowledge and do your
down? How to be prepared to distinguish a good offer from a bad one and
be aware of what would best match your needs and budget?

Free Solar Panel Calculator and Solar

Power Calculator
Welcome To Our Free Solar Panel Calculator And Solar Power
Calculator.
Please scroll down to read the Help file showing you how to use this
free solar calculator. To use our solar power calculator you need to
have Adobe Flash Player installed. Therefore, If you are using
Iphone/Android you may have difficulties in viewing our solar
calculator.

Using the On-grid systems solar panel calculator

Here is a quick guide how to use the calculator.
Disclaimer: Provided calculator is for informational and educational
purposes only. By using this calculator you acknowledge that we cant be
held responsible for any damages as a result of using this calculator
1. How many KiloWatts-Hours (kWh) do you use per month?
You are asked to quote your monthly consumption according to your
monthly electricity bill.
2. What percentage of this power will be used by renewable solar
energy?
If your home is connected to a utility grid, it is rather uncommon to offset all
of your consumption to a solar electric system. A fair percentage is usually

30 to 40, you are free however to choose a lower or a higher percentage

value.
3. Average Sun Hours per day?
You can find below information how to find Average Sun Hours per day
also known as Perfect Sun Hours/PSH/ for location in USA, Europe,
Australia and New Zealand, and rest of the world:
3.1 You can take this value for USA by clicking on the following link:
http://maps.nrel.gov/pvdaq ,
expand the Solar Resources folder on the left and tick the Avg. Annual Tilt
at Lat checkbox. After that you will see a map of the United States with
Average Sun Hours plotted on. Then by clicking on the little black arrow
right to the checkbox, you can expand the legend and see the value of
Average Sun Hours for your location after zooming in the map as much as
you need to find the place where you live.
Eventually you get the minimum and the recommended size (in Watts) of
the solar system you need. System size means the total power of the solar
panels that need to be installed on your roof to meet the electricity
consumption target you want to offset to the solar system.
3.2 You can find the Average Sun Hours per day value for Europe by
clicking on following link:
http://re.jrc.ec.europa.eu/pvgis/countries/europe/EUGlob_opta_publications.png
Please dont forget to divide the value of yearly sum of global irradiation in
KWh/m2 by 365 to obtain the value for average Sun Hours per day.
3.3 For Australia and New Zealand:

solarpanelsvenue.com/out/australia_sunshine_hours.JPG
3.4 If you live outside USA and Europe you can find the Average Sun
Hours per day value for your country by using the World map of direct
normal irradiance, which means that these values are applicable for the
solar panel held perpendicular to the sun rays. In other words, the tilt of
your solar panels is equal to the latitude of your place.
http://www.dlr.de/tt/Portaldata/41/Resources/dokumente/institut/system/proj
ects/reaccess/ssedni60.jpg
Please dont forget to divide the value of yearly sum of direct normal
irradiance in KWh/m2/y by 365 to obtain the value for average Sun Hours
per day for your location
On Grid Solar Calculator Assumptions: Recommended System Size
assumes 85% solar system efficiency or in other words 15% total system
losses.
How to calculate number of solar panels needed for your solar
system?
Number of solar panels needed= Recommended System Size in
Wats/Chosen Panel in Watts. Round up the calculated value
For example you have calculated that you need Recommended System
Size 5000Watts.
You have chosen your system voltage to be 12V and your solar panel to be
240Watt for 12V solar system.
Then number of solar panels that you need is:
Number of solar panels needed=5000/240=20.8 solar panels. After
rounding it up we receive that you need to buy 21 solar panels.

Please, use the update button below the calculator body to update the
calculated results if those results are not updating automatically.
Using the off-grid system solar panel calculator
1. What is the total Watts (W) you electronics will consume?
You need to sum the wattages of all the electrical devices you use and
therefore you want your off-grid solar system to support. Each device has
its wattage on its back label.
2. For how long are you planning to run these devices?
You should decide for how long you have all these devices plugged in, so
that the solar system will be able to power them. Here you need the
average hours of operation rather than the maximum ones.
3. Charge Controller efficiency (PWM: 80%, MPPT: 92%)
Charge controller is a device that manages the battery of a solar system.
PWM charge controllers is less expensive than MPPT charge controllers
but they are also less efficient.
4. Average Sun Hours per day?
As it has been explained above for the off-grid solar system
Off-grid system calculator assumptions
1. Calculated battery size provides:
-up to 2 days autonomous work with no additional charge of battery
due to bad weather or system failure at 100% battery discharge, which
is not recommended and may destroy your batteries.
-up to 1.65 days autonomous work with 80% battery discharge

-up to 1 day autonomous work with 50% battery discharge.

2. Minimum system size takes into account 3% cable losses and 80%
efficiency of battery bank. As you know batteries have losses due to
temperature influence and discharge rate. Generally,
lower temperatures, especially negative ones, and higher discharge
rates in Amperes may drastically reduce the battery bank efficiency.
3. Recommended system size takes into account charge controller
efficiency being inputted.
How to calculate number of solar panels needed for your solar
system?
Number of solar panels needed= Recommended System Size in
Wats/Chosen Panel in Watts. Round up the calculated value
For example you have calculated that you need Recommended System
Size 5000Watts.
You have chosen your system voltage to be 12V and your solar panel to be
240Watt for 12V solar system.
Then number of solar panels that you need is:
Number of solar panels needed=5000/240=20.8 solar panels. After
rounding it up we receive that you need to buy 21 solar panels.
Please, use the update button below the calculator body to update the
calculated results if those results are not updating automatically.

What is a charge controller?

Charge controllers important battery managers

Charge controller is a device preventing batteries from overcharging and

overdischarging. One of the most common problems of batteries is that
they cannot be discharged excessively or recharged too often. A charge
controller controls the charge by managing properly the battery voltage and
current.
Charge controllers are intended to protect the battery and to deliver it as
longer life as possible, while keeping the photovoltaic system efficiency. It
should be noted that charge controllers only control DC loads. AC loads are
to be controlled (and disconnected, if needed) by an inverter.
The key functions of charge controllers are:

Protecting the battery from overcharging by limiting the charging

voltage

Protecting the battery from deep and/or unwanted discharging. The

charge controller automatically disconnects the loads from the battery
when battery voltage falls below a certain depth of discharge value

Preventing the reverse current through PV modules at night

Providing information about battery state of charge

The main charge controller types available today are PWM (Pulse Width
Modulation) and MPPT (Maximum Power Point Tracking) ones. MPPT
charge controllers are more expensive but they can boost the performance
of the solar array. PWM charge controllers are less expensive but they can
extend battery banks lifecycle at the expense of solar panels performing
lower than in case of MPPT controller. Similar to inverters, charge
controllers have a lifespan of about 15 years.

A charge controller costs between $500 and $1,000. This is not a fortune
but not choosing the proper charge controller for your system might results
in series of problems. Your solar system might either underperform or not
work at all. The worst however is that other system components might get
damaged. Therefore selecting charge controller should not be
underestimated. What kind of charge controller to choose depends on the
specific case and is a tradeoff between getting more power from solar
panels and extending battery life. To get an idea what controller you need
for your system you need neither dig into heavy science nor be a solar
guru. You just have to know some basic info such as:

Which type of charge controller is recommended for a given solar

system type

What maintenance a charge controller needs and how much are its

annual maintenance costs

When you need a couple of charge controllers rather than a single one

Which charge controller type is recommended for hot climates

What controller to select for a small solar system

What controller you need to connect a 48V-solar array to a 24V-

battery bank
Click Here to discover more about how the charge controller can boost the
performance of your solar system even more.

Solar Batteries

What kind of solar battery you need for

your solar electric system?
By watching video below you will discover:

basics of solar batteries and their application in solar power systems

the most important battery features,

what kinds of batteries are used in solar power systems

how to connect them and what to avoid to have an efficient and

healthy solar battery bank

Solar batteries are devices capable to produce and store DC electricity.

Batteries are commonly used in solar electric systems as substitute of solar
panels at night or during cloudy days. In such situations the needed
electricity is drawn from batteries instead from the solar array which cannot
act as a generator due to insufficient sunlight.
Battery, however, is not an indispensable part of a photovoltaic system.
When a solar electric system is connected to the utility grid, it typically does
not contain batteries unless a power backup is needed for certain special
electric devices. Most solar systems disconnected from the grid contain
batteries, along with charge controllers devices who manage battery
charging and discharging. In a solar electric system batteries are usually
combined in a battery bank to get the desired voltage and capacity.
A battery is made of cells which can be either wet or dry ones.
Wet cell batteries are more common than dry cells due to their high
performance, cost efficiency and reliability.

Their drawbacks, however, are low mobility and need for regular
maintenance, as well as for a separate room. Such drawbacks are
eliminated by dry cell batteries which are more expensive and have shorter
lifecycle.
No matter what kind of battery is used, solar battery cost makes a
substantial part of the cost of any solar system.
As a rule, cost of the battery bank is 25% and 50% of total system cost. It is
very important if not to be able to choose the right battery bank for your
solar system, to be able to evaluate what you are offered by a solar system
vendor.
A battery with less capacity than needed will not be able to meet your daily
energy needs and the whole solar system gets pointless. A battery of
capacity greater than needed will not only cost much higher, but will also
degrade severely the performance of your system.
Moreover, such a battery will cost you much more in view of regular
maintenance and, last but not least, is tougher to get recycled.
If youd like to discover more how to size your battery bank Click Here to
get our new book The Ultimate Solar Power Design Guide: Less Theory
More Practice

What is A Solar Inverter ?

Solar Inverter: Image by

Lauren Wellicome on Flickr, used under the Creative Commons license

Solar Inverter is a device capable to convert DC into AC electricity.
Inverters are typical components of solar electric systems since solar
panels generate DC electricity and most devices used in homes or offices
operate on AC voltage.
There are two main types of solar system connected to the grid (grid-tied)
and disconnected from the grid (off-grid).
Although inverters main function is always the same converting DC into
AC electricity these two kinds of systems use different kinds of inverters.
Grid-tied inverter is the heart of any grid-tied solar system since a grid-tied
system must contain an inverter.

A grid-tied inverter converts the DC voltage from the solar array into AC
voltage that can be either used right away or exported to the utility grid.
A grid-tied inverter must strictly comply with utility grids requirements and
regulations. For example grid-tied inverters must generate AC voltage of a
strictly sinusoidal form.
One of the main features of a grid-tied inverter is that it stops operating in
case of a grid failure. Thus technicians doing any repair works on utility
network are prevented from getting an electric shock.
Off-grid inverters are different from grid-tied inverters.
An off-grid solar system might not contain an inverter if DC loads only are
to be powered.
Since off-grid systems are disconnected from utility grid, off-grid inverters
need not to match utility grid requirements and regulations.
Depending on its size a photovoltaic system could comprise either a single
inverter or multiple ones.
Each of these two concepts has its benefits and drawbacks. Most of the
modern inverters are provided with a Maximum Power Point Tracking
feature enabling generation of solar electricity at maximum solar panel
performance.
Inverters are expensive and often bulky devices especially the ones for
high power solar systems.
Nevertheless inverters are neither mysterious nor that difficult to
understand.

To be in clear what inverter you need for your solar system, you just need
to know a couple of basic things.
That info would help you not only in selecting the right kind of inverter but
will also make you confident upon receiving an offer from a solar vendor or
installer. In other words, your background about inverters can help select
the right solar offer matching best your energy needs and available budget.
As a potential solar buyer you are supposed to know the following basics:

What kind of maintenance an inverter needs and how much is such

maintenance per year

How to estimate AC power rating the key parameter of any

inverter

What to be careful about when selecting an inverter with MPPT

feature

In which cases a single inverter is not enough

How a microinverter can increase system performance even if your solar

array is shaded
Click Here to Discover How the Solar Inverter Can Boost the Performance
of Your Solar Power system