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Recreation and Society in Africa, Asia and Latin America (RASAALA)

Volume 1 Number 1 March 2010

Published by SPREAD Corporation

Sustaniable Programs for Reducing Educational and Avocational Disadvantages


www.spreadcorp.org
Editor in chief

Neil Carr
Department of Tourism,
The University of Otago,
P.O. Box 56, Dunedin, New Zealand.
neil.carr@otago.ac.nz

Editorial Board

Rachid Amirou Pablo Idahosa


Professeur des universités, Université de African Studies Department,
Perpignan et Paris 12 . Vanier College,
Responsable du département tourisme, ESC York University,
Troyes 4700 Keele Street
Email:rachid-amirou@wanadoo.fr North York, Toronto On. Canada.
Email: pidahosa@yorku.ca
Christine N.Buzinde
The Pennsylvania State University, Edward L. Jackiewicz
Department of Recreation, Park and Department of Geography,
Tourism Management California State University, Northridge, US.
University Park, PA 16802 Email: ed.jackiewicz@csun.edu
Email: cbuzinde@psu.edu
Lynn M. Jamieson
Matt Forss Department of Recreation, Park, and
Private Practice Tourism Studies,
Email: worldmusicman2002@yahoo.com Indiana University - Bloomington, US
Email: lyjamies@indiana.edu
Abdelhadi Halawa
Department of Wellness and Sport Sciences, Tess Kay
Millersville University, School of sport and exercise science,
Millersville, PA, USA. Loughborough University, UK
Email: Abdelhadi.Halawa@millersville.edu Email: T.A.Kay@lboro.ac.uk

Kirsten Holmes Jay Mafukidze


School of Management, University Of Regina, Sask. Canada.
Curtin University of Technology, Email: Jay.Mafukidze@uregina.ca
Australia
Email: K.Holmes@cbs.curtin.edu.au Muhammad Aurang Zeb Mughal,
Department of Anthropology,
Durham University, UK
Email: m.a.z.mughal@durham.ac.uk
Jerome Singleton Iheanyichukwu Nwokoma Osondu
School of Health and Human Performance, Department of History,
Dalhousie University, Geography and Political Science,
Nova Scotia, Canada Fort Valley State University,
Email: Jerome.Singleton@dal.ca Fort Valley, GA 31030
Email: osondui@fvsu.edu
Eileen O'Connor
School of Human Kinetics, Hazel Tucker
University of Ottawa, On. Canada. Tourism Department, University of Otago,
Email: eoconnor@uottawa.ca P.O. Box 56, Dunedin,
New Zealand
Email: htucker@business.otago.ac.nz

Managing Editor
Femi J. Kolapo,
University of Guelph,
Guelph, On., Canada.
kolapof@uoguelph.ca
A Special Issue on Lifestyle Migration
Guest editor, Edward L. Jackiewicz

Table of Contents

Guest editor’s introduction to the special issue on “lifestyle migration” 1-4

Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine . . . . . 5-29


Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-
Foreign Investment Nexus

Annie Linderson . . . . . . . . 31-52


To enter the kitchen door to people’s lives: A Multi-Method
Approach in the Research of Transnational Practices among
Lifestyle Migrants

Mari Korpela . . . . . . . . 53-73


Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of
Themselves in Varanasi, India

Omar Lizárraga Morales . . . . . . . 75-92


The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico.
Profile and social effect

Reviewers for the current issue . . . . . . 93

.
Guest editor, Edward L. Jackiewicz
Department of Geography
California State University
Northridge, CA 91330-8249

Introduction

Growing up in the northeastern United States with its long, cold winters, relatively expensive

cost of living, excessive traffic, crime, etc., the desire to retire in Florida was a dream to which

many aspired. Indeed, many aspects of life, including retirement seemed so much less complex

than they do today. My parents fulfilled their “dream” and relocated to Florida’s Gulf Coast

shortly after I left for university and joined many fellow Northeasterners and Midwesterners

seeking sun, year round golf, early bird dinners, and more affordable living; all of which were

readily attainable. As we entered the new millennium, traditional retirement destinations in the

US, such as Florida and Arizona, began to lose many of the attributes that made them appealing

to retirees in the past and thus the migration flows began to disperse to less traditional

destinations. Moreover, retirement or amenity-driven relocations are no longer just for the

elderly, as this special issue illustrates.

Social Scientists have become increasingly interested in what is being labeled “lifestyle

migrations”. For Benson and O’Reilly (2009: 2) lifestyle migration is the “…spatial mobility of

relatively affluent individuals of all ages, moving either part-time or full-time, to places that are

meaningful because, for various reasons, they offer the potential for a better quality of life.”

Thus, they are not driven by job opportunities or solely by economic reasons that have driven

much of migration throughout history. However, before we settle on “lifestyle migration” as the

accepted definition of this movement, others who have conducted research in this arena have

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2 Introduction

employed the terms of International Retirement Migration (see Williams, et al. 2000) and

Residential Tourism (see McWatters 2009; Rodriguez 1998), both of which are used in this issue

to describe such movement, although I feel that lifestyle migration is a more encompassing term

and therefore more pragmatic in describing the heterogeneity of this group.

The aim of this special issue is to introduce some of the breadth of research being done

on this topic, broadly defined. The importance of these population movements will continue to

increase as “baby boomers” continue to retire and others sour on life in industrialized countries

and have the means to move abroad. Scholarly research is still in its early stages and thus it

remains a fertile avenue for research. Questions abound as to which destinations are most

popular and are they able to retain their popularity despite increasing competition from locales

throughout the world. Moreover, how long can some countries afford to offer extremely

generous incentives to would-be migrants before social, economic, and environmental stresses

reach their breaking point? A casual review of the demand, i.e. migrants seeking an international

destination; and supply, i.e. places luring potential migrants; suggests that the supply may soon

outweigh the demand jeopardizing the long-term future of this form of development.

This issue illustrates some of the diversity of topics and approaches to research that have

emerged over the past several years. Researchers from various disciplines have taken an interest

in lifestyle migration, which is reflected in the differing approaches to the topic. In this issue, we

hear from geographers, anthropologists, and social scientists as they shed light on the diversity of

the lifestyle migration process in various parts of the world.

The first article, by Edward Jackiewicz and James Craine, examines the surge of lifestyle

migrants relocating to Panama. The focus here is on the national level as they question the

sustainability of the project and whether or not Panama should embrace, i.e. subsidize; lifestyle

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Introduction 3

migration as part of their development arsenal. They also bring attention to the dealmakers or

“middlemen” in the migration process, in this case the company International Living, who

specializes in connecting would be migrants to destinations throughout the world.

The second article is by Swedish anthropologist Annie Linderson, who provides us with a

methodological piece on how to do research on this topic. The paper is based on her research in

the Costa del Sol, but its applicability is versatile and could be embraced by those doing research

in Asia, Africa, or Latin America.

This is followed by an article by Mari Korpela using extensive interviews with

Westerners who have migrated to Varanasi, India. Many have eschewed the Western lifestyle

and left with the intention of finding a better life in India and ended up “finding themselves” and

now many of those who leave Varanasi return on an annual basis and have formed their own

community there.

The final article of this issue is by Mexican social scientist Omar Lizárraga Morales who

takes a critical stance on the increasing presence of Americans in the popular tourist destination

of Los Cabos, Mexico. He argues that the growing presence of Americans has resulted in deep

social and environmental problems that jeopardize the sustainability of the region and make it

increasingly difficult for locals to cope due to rising costs of living, environmental degradation

and social exclusion.

References

O’Reilly, K. and M. Benson. 2009. Lifestyle Migration: Escaping to the Good Life? In M.
Benson and K. O’Reilly (eds). Lifestyle Migration: Expectations, Aspirations and
Experiences. pp. 1-13. Farnham: Ashgate.

McWatters, M.R. 2009. Residential Tourism: (De)Constructing Paradise. Buffalo: Channel


View Publications.

Rodriguez, V., G. Fernndez-Mayoralas, and F. Rojo. 1998. European retirees on the Costa del

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4 Introduction

Sol: A cross-national comparison. International Journal of Population Geography 4:2 ,


pp. 91-111.

Williams A.M., R. King, A. Warnes, and G. Patterson. 2000. Tourism and international retirement
migration: new forms of an old relationship in southern Europe. Tourism Geographies, 2(1): 28-49.

RASAALA, Vol. 1 No.1, 1 - 4


Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign
Investment Nexus

Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine


Department of Geography
California State University, Northridge

Abstract

Panama has emerged as an important destination for US citizens seeking an affordable


and ‘exotic’ place to invest, relocate or live out their “golden years”. The result on the
Panamanian landscape to date has been uneven and its implications to the Panamanian
economy and society warrant attention. The flow of new residents and money, both of
which have been made relatively easy by liberal government policies, have spurred
growth immediately evidenced by the abundance of half-built skyscrapers in the capital
city and burgeoning non-urban communities complete with golf courses and other
amenities typical of retirement communities in the US. The objectives of this paper are
twofold: first, we aim to build a conceptual framework in an effort to better understand
the myriad of factors that intersect to establish such movements; and second we examine
how this rapid influx of US culture and economics promote and perpetuate what we
argue is a questionably sustainable neoliberal economic agenda.

Keywords: residential tourism, globalization, neoliberalism, Panama

Introduction

Panama is an increasingly important destination for the flows of people, money, and

ideas that circulate throughout the Americas, often with uneven results. Panama has

found, at least temporarily, a niche within the region (and world) as a safe place to invest

and the concomitant economic advantages are now evidenced by rapid commercial and

residential development in the capital city and in more remote yet often more

economically and/or aesthetically desirable locales throughout the country. The country

has established a highly favorable tax climate for investors, including homeowners, while

at the same time launching an extensive marketing campaign in combination with many

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6 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

local and foreign private companies to lure tourists and potential long-term residents to

what is promoted as an environmentally rich country friendly to international tourists,

investors, and retirees. Our emphasis throughout the paper is on the growing North

American (primarily US) communities whose inhabitants range from retirees, part-time

residents, tourists, to investors. The intense promotion of the tourism and real estate

industries (not necessarily separate as we discuss later) has obviously hastened human

and capital flows into the country with economic, social and environmental implications.

Indeed, based on a report by Prima Panama, a real estate promotion company, there are

now 107 residential towers of at least 20 stories each valued at $3.2 billion under

construction in metropolitan Panama City alone (see Lakshamanan 2007). The same

report claims there are 11,000 apartments scheduled for completion by 2010. The average

price on a new condo in Panama City is US$289,000, but some luxury places can go well

into the millions. In an effort to analyze the confluence of these activities and their

potential for sustainable, equitable growth in Panama we borrow from several streams of

literature including: globalization/neoliberalism, residential tourism, international

retirement migrant and citizenship/identity. As such our paper is cognizant of the

territorial institutions of governance that regulate these spaces and the extent to which

opportunity has availed itself to all members of society in a democratic fashion.

Situated within these broad frameworks, we tie together several strands of inquiry

that help to define contemporary Panama. Because of this mode of development, Panama

is similar to many countries in the region that have become highly reliant on foreign

investment and the influx of people (i.e. investors, tourists, seasonal residents, and

laborers), a situation that leaves Panama exposed to the uncertainties characteristic of the

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 7
Nexus

hyper-capitalistic neoliberal world. As such, our focus here is on macro-level

developments with some discussion of local-level phenomena. Panama is by no means

the only country experiencing these trends, but it does seem to be at or near the forefront

of a model of development that is highly dependent on foreign investors, foreign visitors,

and foreign-born residents and therefore could be a “bellweather” for things to come

around the region and globe.

Global-Local Connections

Our discussion of the dominant economic imperative in Panama can be seen in the work

of McMichael (1996: 26-7): “Local processes, and local expressions of globalization, are

then situated in an historically concrete, rather than an abstract context.” We believe this

is a very concise and apt description of the term “new economy” especially as it pertains

to the North American homebuyer’s engagement in a specific economic transaction. One

attribute of a globalized new economy is the extreme hypermobility of capital,

particularly its ability to overcome the historical and political boundaries of nation-states.

A second attribute is the effect of the new economy on spatial outcomes at local scales,

chiefly within the global city that Sassen (1998: 86) describes as “strategic sites for the

valorization of leading components of capital and for the coordination of global economic

processes.” These two characteristics identify both the economic transactions and the

cultural implications of our engagement with these new economies of globalization.

The ability to acquire commodities such as a home in Panama, a process made

easier by the Internet and organized sales forums, is indicative of the changes in scale and

speed that typify globalized financial activities. “Money,” according to Barnet and

Cavanagh (1996: 361), “has become free of its place.” The Internet functions as a site for

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8 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

transactions, a place completely free of labor unions, minimum wage laws and other

‘encumbrances’, particularly taxes (Mander and Boston, 1996) where North Americans,

as consumers, are able to eliminate any temporal-spatial limitations that interfere with

their desire to purchase a commodity. Buyers are able to largely bypass the normative

real estate agent-facilitated transaction and are thus placed within the nexus of

deregulation – their money has now indeed “traveled faster, farther, and in ways never

envisioned by banking legislation and regulatory authorities” (365). Buyers are capable

of making these forms of transactions because price controls on their desired commodity

have been lifted, creating attractive price differentials. The middleman (i.e. real estate

agent) is transformed by, or at least now subordinate to the Internet or the group sales

activities that are the chief facilitators of such transactions and, at the same time, create a

sub-industry of potential buyer tourism, i.e. those who travel from abroad to tour

potential retirement/investment properties throughout the country. These types of

transactions have contributed to the economic reorientation towards home ownership in

foreign countries brought about by the Structural Readjustment Programs discussed by

Bello (1996). Buyers have become part of the dynamic economic restructuring process –

through the liquidity of capital they have transgressed the local and positioned themselves

within the global. By utilizing the globalizing effects of deregulation, buyers have

contributed to a further loss of significance for the Panamanian state and to the

emergence of the supranational. In this instance, the primary role of the state is as

facilitator by creating an attractive investment/retirement destination.

The new Americanized communities become local expressions of globalization.

The urban developments embodying the sensibilities of the intruders reflect the

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 9
Nexus

architectural aesthetics of the home country itself, a landscape that contains several

conflicting elements: contemporary consumer capitalism embodied in modernist

architecture that sweeps away all trace of local history and tradition and local qualities of

space that are to be respected. McMichael (1996: 42) states, “As global integration

intensifies, the currents of multiculturalism swirl faster. Under these conditions, which

include the juxtaposition of ethnically distinct labor forces and communities, the politics

of identity tends to substitute for the civic (universalist) politics of nation-building.” This

concept of speed is common to the creation of North American communities in Panama:

things move too fast – the available commodities are increasingly valorized so there is

little time for contemplation of effect because of the desperation to keep pace with

something that is always on the verge of disappearing. Sassen (1996: 84) comments on

“experiences of membership and identity formation that represent new subjectivities” and

McMichael (48) states “global integration crystallizes the local, even to the point of

generating reaction to global analysis.” The purchases of North Americans present a

struggle for space within the now threatened geographic place of Panama and the

economic, social, and political confrontations within the amenity-rich (which not by

coincidence also investment-friendly) spaces depict the end of history for the

Panamanians. These occupied spaces represent a community struggling to survive a

contested problematic future for a globalized capitalist Panama that is now both

consumer and consumed.

The economic transactions that make Americans part of the new economy has

also given them access to this contested space. Culture has itself become a form of capital

and, like its financial counterpart, culture has become hypermobile and transnational. The

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10 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

visual expressions of the processes of globalization that are represented by the homes of

the North American relocators resonate with equal intensity to multinational consumers

of the landscape. A landscape that must meet the imaginary of the US retiree ensuring

that their international foray is not too alien. They have thus participated in the new

economy in a multi-level manner. They have used the financial aspects to find

advantageous consumer conditions that are supranational in nature. They have also

redefined local affects, within the contested spaces of the globalized city, through their

representations of America in a Panama that struggles to comprehend its hybrid identity.

Residential Tourism/International Retirement Migration: Structures and Agency

Just as the lines between international tourist and international migrant can get blurred, so

has the terminology surrounding this subject. The two most commonly used terms are

International Retirement Migration (referred to elsewhere as IRM; see King, et al. 1998

for a detailed discussion) and Residential Tourism. We prefer the latter for this

discussion for several reasons as outlined by McWatters (2009): 1) it has a scholarly

tradition in describing the movement of Northern Europeans to Southern Spain (see also

Rodriguez, 2001); 2) their pattern of behavior is often similar to that of tourists; and 3) it

conscientiously drops the word “retirement” because many of these individuals are not

retirees. Another potentially slippery issue is defining who is actually a residential

tourist. For example, some may be seasonal migrants who continue to work in some

capacity either in their host country or are able to work from afar.

The accelerated movement of people from the United States or Canada to Latin

America, is fueled by several interrelated factors. First, many people in the US are

retiring at a younger age and/or living longer with greater resources and in turn greater

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 11
Nexus

flexibility with their retirement decision-making. Second, many more people have

greater international experience and familiarity with foreign places which makes places

like Panama more accessible and more desirable. Finally, many traditional retirement

destinations in the United States have become expensive and many are perceived or

experienced as too crowded, thereby negating the major pull factors that initially lured

retirees to destinations like Florida or Arizona. These adverse factors have driven a

greater number of investors/retirees to seek international destinations, as is evidenced by

the recent real estate boom in Panama.

In many ways, Panama has supplanted Costa Rica as the ‘trendy’ place for US

citizens to relocate. In the 1980s, Costa Rica offered many incentives to lure US

investors there but has since rolled back many of these policies to curb migrant flows.

The incentives currently offered by Panama are inspired by 1980s Costa Rica and

include: liberal landownership laws, a one-time tax exemption of up to $10,000 on

imported goods, a tax exemption on newly constructed properties for 20 years and a low

2.1% tax on other properties, low cost healthcare (most US migrants purchase private

insurance), a dollarized economy, not to mention discounts at movie theaters, restaurants,

medical services (e.g. dental, optometry), hotels and resorts, utilities, et al. These

incentives have given Panama a comparative advantage over many of its neighbors; not

to mention the historical linkages to the Panama Canal.

The increasing flow of individuals from the United States and Canada to Central

America in many ways imitates the retirement migration to Florida in the postwar period

but, as is the case with Panama, there are potentially adverse consequences to the local

economy, culture and environment. This is not to say the mass migration to Florida did

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12 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

not create problems locally but the move further south to Central America represents a

migration stream that is ripe for investigation.

The Individual: tourists, migrants or both?

One of the initial obstacles in doing research on residential tourism is obtaining accurate

and/or reliable statistics. Within the US, the Department of State (DOS) collected this

information until 1999, but has since stopped due to security reasons. Even when they

did collect this information they were little more than estimates based partly on

registration with the US embassy in the host country. Data can be gathered from host

country censuses, but of course they would not necessarily be accurate because many

residents would not be counted, notably those who are part time residents. By any

estimate, the number of US residents in Panama has historically fluctuated due largely to

political events. The Panamanian census reveals an increase of 136% between 1990 and

2000, due likely to the 1989 overthrow of Manuel Noriega and return of former canal

workers and US military personnel who left when the Canal was handed back to Panama

(MPI 2006). There has not been a census since 2000, but by all accounts there has been a

swell in the number of US residents in Panama since that time.

Visa statistics are another way to obtain data on the number of US residents

living in Panama. Of course, these numbers are also prone to inaccuracy as not everyone

needs to apply for a visa as many apply for tourist visas if they live there part-time.

Nonetheless, these numbers highlight that the number of migrating retirees/relocators is

on the rise, as the number of visas issued to US residents more than tripled between 2003

and 2005. Panamanian officials state that US citizens represent 2/3 of foreign resident

visas issued over the past several years and between January 2003 and March 2006 at

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 13
Nexus

least 1,379 Americans have received such visas (see Lakshmanan 2007). Granted, this is

not a huge number but it should be viewed as more useful in revealing trends than

enumerating migrants.

Categorizing and conceptualizing this type of movement raises some provocative

questions without easy answers. Are these individuals who decide to buy a home (which,

it should be noted, is often a second home) in a foreign country and reside there for only

several months a year considered a resident of that country? If they retain citizenship and

an address in the US are they migrants or tourists? Neither? Both? With the onset of

globalization and the increasingly free flow of money and people these population

movements are becoming increasingly more complex and difficult to pinpoint. Urry

(1995) has argued the need to examine these leisure-related activities amid the wider

social relations in which they exist, a condition that Williams and Hall (2000: 29) argue is

pertinent to the study of tourism and migration because of their complex causal

connections. Indeed, tourist destinations become relocation/retirement destinations

because they are both often amenity-rich areas.

Much of the previous work on the links between tourism and migration has

focused on how European tourist destinations can become retirement destinations (see for

example Williams, et al. 1997). This tourism-retirement nexus is hastened by second-

home buyers who, upon retirement, turn their vacation home into a retirement home

(Williams et al. 2000). We argue that the popularity of owning a home in Panama is

related to scalar economic and cultural outcomes of globalization. How this process

defines and complicates conceptions of citizenship is much less clear. We believe the

term “residential tourism” functions best in its ability to define conceptions of citizenship

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14 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

and spaces of contestation. The use of this term within the economies of Panama

transforms the ‘home’ into a commodity that is a part of the much larger rubric of

consumed goods within the global marketplace.

Residential tourism thus becomes a historically concrete outcome, similar to

McMichael’s ‘set of relations’ and based on and constructed by social forces put into

place and supported by a set of capitalist relations driven by the desire to consume and to

own. Residential tourism becomes another industry designed to perpetuate the hegemony

of the Northern capitalist economies. For Panama, the subordinate cultural and historico-

economic relationship complements the First World notion that buying and selling is

‘natural’ and that Panama is thus more ‘natural’ in this respect than the United States.

Spatial availability in destination countries like Panama are often the result of the

inequalities of the historical processes of capitalism and are, according to Wijers (1998:

71), “relegated to the informal and unregulated labor market – without rights and without

protection [where] more dubious and unprotected labor markets have developed

internationally.” Residential tourism becomes, then, an economic manifestation of desire

that constructs the spaces of Northern pleasure and fantasy.

Linking Tourism and Retirement

We argue that there is a strong connection between tourism and relocation/retirement in

both the economic and social spheres. Panama emerged from the Noriega era embracing

a new economic model that included promoting tourism and attracting investors from the

United States and Canada. To see the effect of this model one has only to note that the

number of international tourist arrivals (it is logical to assume that investors/relocators

are part of this trend and data on them alone is not available) increased from: 345,000 in

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 15
Nexus

1995; 534,000 in 2002; and 795,000 in 2006. Once a tourist arrives in Panama, it is near

impossible to avoid being bombarded by the real estate mania sweeping the country. In

addition, even a cursory exploration of Panama-related websites will reveal a link to or

information about living in Panama, further illustrating the dramatic effects and

prominence of this new economic phenomenon.

Panama’s National Tourism Council was founded in 1983 to promote tourism and

like many government agencies began to lose its power as a result of the recent shift

toward neoliberalism and the concomitant increase of tourism investments that allow

tourist exemptions from import duties, income, and real estate taxes--pull factors that

have helped open the door for the residential tourism increase. Thus, as soon-to-be

investors from the United States and Canada were looking for options outside normative

communities the Panamanian government was creating an enticing environment for

potential investors and residential tourists. Not surprisingly, opportunists seized the

moment to connect the two.

It is important to note that the Panamanian government has not made the investor

friendly policies uniform throughout the country. Rather they have identified certain

areas as “tax free zones” as illustrated by the map below, which not surprisingly

encompasses the most aesthetically pleasing and tourist friendly locales throughout the

country. The subsequent description of each of these areas highlights their amenities.

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16 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

Figure 1. Panama’s Free Zones.

Zone 1, La Amistad: Located in the provinces of Chiriqui and Bocas del Toro, characterized by the presence of La
Amistad International Park and Baru National Park. The structure is composed of 61attractions (47 are natural and 14
are cultural) which make this zone propitious for ecological tourism. The main areas of this zone are concentrated in
Boquete and to a lesser extent Cerro Punta, Volcan and the Sereno River.

Zone 2, Bastimentos: The province of Bocas del Toro has one of the largest Marine Parks in the country which
includes beach areas, reefs and the presence of the Afroantillian culture which is most present in the architecture of
the city of Bocas del Toro. The tourist areas of this zone are made up of 78 attractions (58 are natural and 20 are
cultural), predominating sandy, white beaches and crystalline waters which are ideal for diving and ecological tourism.

Zone 3, Arco Seco: The Arco Seco is conformed by the coastal areas of the provinces of Herrera and Los Santos,
unique for their traditions and socio-cultural events which attract large amounts of visitors.

Zone 4, Farallon: Farallon includes 80 kilometres of Pacific Coast, distributed between the provinces of Panama and
Cocle. Its tourist potential is comprised of 24 natural attractions of which 17 are beaches and the
remaining attractions are in the area of the Anton Valley for ecological tourism.

Zone 5, Metropolitan: The principal attractions are related with Panama City, shopping, business activities, historical
and cultural attractions as well as the natural parks that surround it. This zone has 126 attractions (72 are natural and
54 cultural).

Zone 6, Portobelo: Portobello is located in the province of Colon; it consists of beaches and innumerable diving
areas, a National park and an assembly of Historical Monuments. Zone 6 accounts for 82 attractions (54 are natural
and 28 are cultural) mainly reefs for underwater explorations and ruins of the forts of Portobelo.

Zone 7, San Blas: The Caribbean of the Kunas, an exotic place due to its islands and areas of corral reefs and white
sandy beaches guards one of the most traditional and native of the Americas.

There are 200 attractions in this zone (173 are natural and 27 are cultural). Its potential is characterized by more than
300 coral based islands and associated white sandy beaches.

Zone 8, Archipelago de Las Perlas: Composed of more than 30 islands and 83 beaches in the Pearl Island
Archipelago, complimented by ample coral reefs and innumerable sport fishing areas. Zone 8 is made up of
136 attractions all of which are natural, characterized by beaches and fishing spots.

Zone 9, Darien: The tourist potential of this zone is made up of 72 attractions (39 natural and 33 cultural). The main
attraction is the Darien National Park declared by UNESCO as a Biosphere Reserve ideal for the ecological and
adventure tourism, additionally it integrating the indigenous groups that live in this zone.

Source: http://www.panamarealtor.com/real-estate-law-incentives/projects-in-special-
tourism-zones

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 17
Nexus

Who’s behind the push?

While nearly all of the big real estate companies (Century 21, Coldwell Banker, Re/Max

to name just three) from the United States now operate in Panama, one particular

company, International Living (www.internaitonaliving.com), maintains a niche by

connecting potential residential tourists to desirable destinations around the globe,

including Panama. Created in 1979, International Living now plays a vital role in

promoting real estate investments around the globe, including Panama, as evidenced by

their advertising slogan: “Living better, for less, overseas.” Although one of the

company’s primary interests is to increase investments in Panamanian real estate,

International Living also offers a wide variety of travel activities including river rafting

and various sight-seeing adventures, as well as touring residential communities, thereby

making an explicit link between tourism and migration.

International Living has also contributed to the increase of investments in

Panamanian real estate by offering a complete range of housing from luxurious houses to

apartments, from properties in metropolitan Panama City to properties in the foothills of

the mountains to multi-acre beach lots. Panamanian real estate is especially presented as

more affordable and more desirable than other places in Central or South America due to

the fact that foreigners in Panama are offered the same property ownership rights as

Panamanian citizens in addition to the low price of property insurance and lower taxes

are all presented as incentives appealing to potential retirement migrants from the United

States and Canada. As a result, Panama has been ranked by the International Living

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18 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

Newsletter as the world’s best place for Americans to live abroad, an accolade that

further contributes to the increase in residential tourism to Panama.

In addition to the aforementioned amenities geared to investors and retirees,

Panama has the additional pull factor of numerous U.S.-standard healthcare facilities

staffed with U.S-trained, English-speaking doctors that are readily available and easy to

access. Panama’s modern technology infrastructure also helps ease the transition for

Americans moving into a new environment and lifestyle. Panama has easily accessible

satellite television and high-speed, voice-over Internet. Although technology is beneficial

for communication it nonetheless has the potential to distance them from the Panamanian

people, culture, and lifestyle.

Thus, for many expatriates, Panama is the perfect place to enjoy a low cost of

living, a booming economy, and a government that supports business and foreign

investment. However, how is this all benefiting Panama and how long will it last? The

country is posting tremendous growth numbers in real GDP (7.5% increase in 2007), but

distribution remains an issue and the separation among class and ethnic lines is of great

concern. In fact, 40% of Panama’s population lives below the poverty level and their

wealth distribution is second worst in the hemisphere, next to Brazil. This situation is all

too characteristic of the endemic neoliberal economic policies introduced by the

Panamanian government in the 1980s and 1990s, especially those emphasizing

privatization and market competition, that threaten lower income communities in Panama

and elsewhere throughout the region. The separation of classes, often easily visible on

the landscape, is becoming increasingly evident as new high rise residential complexes,

gated communities, and resort areas typically have a strong security presence, either

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 19
Nexus

through gates and/or security guards, effectively separating them from the local

population.

One of the distinguishing features of the Latin America society at-large is its stark

and widening socio-spatial differentiation that caters to the elites, and in this context

including the transnational residents. For example, in his research on Managua, Rodgers

(2004) argues that with this new pattern of segregation in cities dotted with walls and

enclaves, public space is eroded and those living on the “inside” feel little responsibility

for those on the “outside.” This would be particularly true for Anglo residents who can

easily escape the local realities of Latin America while being surrounded by people of a

similar background inside the gated community, elite high-rise, or isolated rural enclave

thereby challenging or at least questioning the notion of citizenship or belonging.

Of Citizenship

Exactly what is meant by the term ‘citizenship’ is open to many definitions and meanings

within the various political nation-states and cultures of the world. Sennett (1994: 310)

endows citizenship with a particular freedom, “the ability to move anywhere, to move

without obstruction, to circulate freely, a freedom greatest in an empty volume.” Mitchell

(2000: 138-39) directly links citizenship to freedom of individual movement within the

spaces of the landscape. This type of citizenship is based on the externalization of those

deemed ‘undesirable” and can be accomplished through “design or through law

[enforcing] the fact that such exclusions are seen as a wholly desirable aspect of

citizenship.” Holston (1998) draws on T.H. Marshall’s work on the civil, social and

political rights of citizenship and sees citizenship as a ‘membership’ in or of a political

unit (usually the nation-state) that secures certain rights and privileges to those who fulfill

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20 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

certain obligations. Thus citizenship becomes a concept that formalizes the conditions for

full participation in a community such as the residential tourism communities of Panama.

Within these concepts, tensions and spaces of resistance are created between local,

national and supranational units. There are continuing struggles to maintain power over

defining the rights of citizenship and the economic forces necessary to maintain those

rights. People can create their own, alternative spaces of citizenship which either

challenge or reinforce the inconsistencies and inequalities built into the political systems

of nation-states at any scale.

Economically, residential tourist citizenship takes one of two forms. One, membership in

a political unit gives an individual (or even a group) the ability to fully participate in

society that brings with it the protection of property rights and personal wealth. By

participating in the economy (as consumer or producer), members are guaranteed the

rights and entitlements contained within the free market society. A second form sees

market inequalities denying some members their citizenship entitlements. This allows the

state to intervene and offset these inequalities thereby ensuring the opportunity and the

right of everyone to participate in the complete range of social activities.

For residential tourists to be citizens (not necessarily in the legal sense) there must

be some degree of interaction within the economic structure of a larger membership-

providing entity. In Panama, these interactions are often controlled by the “third party” or

the dealmakers who bring the investor and property together thereby easing the

transaction process, but at the same time minimizing or eliminating the degree of

interaction typically characteristic of the road to citizenship, in a formal or informal

sense. Becoming part of the community allows residential tourists to recombine what

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 21
Nexus

their new culture has differentially transmitted to them, create new value from these

recombinations and make the new value available to each other through exchange.

Growth, either personal or some form of nationalism, comes from the differences in the

transmission of culture facilitated by the entitlements of citizenship, but if those

exchanges are minimized then how do we come to understand these interactions?

Cosgrove (1989: 123) states, “Any human intervention in nature involves its

transformation to culture, although that transformation may not always be visible,

especially to an outsider.” Most humans live in societies that are divided – by class, caste,

gender, age, and ethnicity or even physicality. Citizenship, as Mitchell has stated, is often

grounded in exclusionary practices, intentional or otherwise. An economically dominant

group like residential tourists will seek to establish its own experience of the world as the

objective and valid culture of all people. Power is then sustained through the reproduction

of culture. This is clearly shown in the residential tourism industry, be it through

gentrification (or redevelopment), through modernist urban constructions such as the

high-rise condominium boom in Panama City, through one-size-fits-all architecture that

inhibits bodily motion, and through the struggle to obtain a livable wage. If anything,

residential tourism is a good indication of the varying interpretations and forms of

citizenship and how there can be great differentiation across political boundaries (formal

or informal) and at any scale or economy. Also worthy of consideration, but beyond the

scope of this paper, are the perceptions of Panamanians and residential tourists have of

each other. Do the Panamanians view the hundreds of foreign residents housed in the

mountain enclave of Boquete as citizens? Similarly, do the new residents care to be

considered Panamanian while they are insulated in their community protected by the

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22 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

security of their American neighbors, gates, and guards? Also, one must consider the

role of the Panamanians who build, clean and protect these properties. Obviously, there

is the necessary employee-employer capitalist relation, but within these communities who

is the insider and who the outsider?

According to Kempadoo, paraphrasing Marx (1998: 25, n.6), “humans make their

own history, but not in circumstances of their own choosing.” The ways in which

Panamanians produce and reproduce their social, economic and political life emphasizes

this interwovenness of human agency and social structure helping to make clear the

contested and problematical nature of the domain of the residential tourist. Panama, for

some Panamanians, is becoming a marginalized economic endeavor complicated by the

unavailability of those most affected to provide a voice offering a more provocative

reading of the Panamanian landscape.

The popularity of residential tourism defines the concept of neoliberal

reterritorialization in two ways. The economies associated with the industry reinforce the

dominant capitalist social constructs of globalization and illustrate the commoditization

of Panama and its consumption by a Northern hierarchy. Promotional web pages on the

Internet are clearly a site of capitalist desires in which space (in its globalized

hybermobility) is easily transported to or visited by participants in the economies of

residential tourism. Appadurai (1996: 35) likens these to ‘mediascapes’ that, “tend to be

image-centered, narrative-based accounts of strips of reality, and what they offer to those

who experience and transform them is a series of elements . . . out of which scripts can be

formed of imagined lives, their own as well as those of others living in other places.” The

removal of the physicality of the transaction complicates issues of this imagined

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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 23
Nexus

neoliberal utopia even more. No matter the space, be it real or cyber, Panamanians are

deprived of a voice or, as of yet, are unable to be heard within the discourses that attempt

to speak for them. This absence of a voice, although defining in one way, complicates

matters of transnational landscapes in others. To attempt to provide a voice without

having existed within or experienced the social, political and economic life of the

Panamanian is yet another exoticizing of the Other based in Western neo-colonial

traditions.

Seen as a form of neocolonialism, the formation of these residential spaces would

seem to indicate a growing awareness of the vulnerability of the disenfranchised to the

desires of a residential tourist capable of exploiting deficiencies in the Panamanian

economies. This further exposes the problem that markets are by nature indiscriminate

and inclined to reduce everything – including Panamanian territory – to the status of

commodities. Those commodities are often held to have little or no value to their

previous occupants – especially when based on economic class or race – and are excluded

from newer postcolonial social formations that treat them as waste products better used

for profit-based ventures within capitalist economies such as residential tourism.

Clearly, Panamanian land (and the residences on that land) has a historical

meaning that can embody histories from personal scales to international scales. This land-

home dialectic has economic meanings that can embody conceptions of both slavery and

privilege but can also contain meanings relating to cultural imperialism. The ability of the

Panamanian individual to contest any question of ownership as articulated by the state

might result in a resistance to the homogeneity created by the new reterritorialization.

The neocolonial retirement communities transcend scale, to realize an ‘imagined

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24 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

community’ thereby enlarging scalar space from the Panamanian local to the

international residential tourist industry. That industry imposes its own meanings of land

ownership onto the landscape by incorporating narratives of desire and consumption into

the transactional process and Panamanian meanings and histories are often lost in the

objectification of the desires of the capitalist North. Thus, transnational residential

tourism can inflect these formations only by a transgression of meaning – local histories

and personal meanings are now reinscribed on Panama and its new occupants.

A Bit on the Local by way of Conclusion

What this rapid transformation is creating is an unsustainable pattern of development that

is prone to crises and disenfranchisement, and that is ultimately leading to economic and

social decay. The fickle nature and local hardships resulting from this 'fast' capitalism is

well documented (see for example the Asian and Argentine crises during the last decade).

The amenities that are luring investors and migrants into Panama is being replicated in

many areas throughout the world as evidenced by the International Living website where

places from Uruguay to Bulgaria to Vietnam are advertised. Thus, there is obvious

competition and once the potential profit in Panama becomes minimized or superceded,

new opportunities will avail themselves and the dollars and people will likely follow.

Latin America has a long history of 'boom and bust' economies that historically

involved agricultural and mining activities. We are even witnessing it now with the loss

of maquiladora jobs to lower cost markets such as China. There is no reason to believe

that the same will not occur with the residential tourism model. Perhaps it is best to

recognize the tourist-residential experience as an export vulnerable to shifts in global

demand and the vulnerability of these markets, since they are as reliant as activities

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Nexus

beyond their borders as they are on activities within the host country. Again, note how

quickly temperaments toward Argentina changed once their economy hit a bump in the

road and investment fled the country and is still slow to return.

While the emphasis of our argument is at the macro- or national scale, the

emergent spatial pattern within the country is revealing. Panama City remains the hub of

most real estate activity, particularly that which caters to entrepreneurs who in turn serve

foreign clientele. It is also the 'jumping off' point for most visitors to the country and the

majority spend at least a day or two there to experience the Canal and other urban

attractions before heading off to the rainforests, islands, and/or rural communities. The

few skyscrapers that dominated the skyline of Panama City a few decades ago were

referred to as the “cocaine towers” due to the belief that they were built on cocaine

money laundered through real estate purchases during the Noriega regime. They no

longer stand alone as new investment has poured in building office towers and high-

priced mixed-use condominium/retail developments. Now the many unfinished buildings

represent the new flood of money from eager investors looking for the next investment

opportunity. On the rapidly growing outskirts of Panama City, there are high-priced

residential communities sprouting up complete with the services designed to

accommodate the new residents such as schools, shopping areas, and improvements to

the local infrastructure. Prices in these exclusive neighborhoods can easily reach

US$500,000, although a similar place in South Florida or Southern California could fetch

three times as much. At the same time, older areas of the city are slow to improve as

many neighborhoods are neglected.

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26 Edward L. Jackiewicz and Jim Craine

As a final point, it should be noted that this model of development also has its

critics within Panama. The “boom” is certainly underway as evidenced by the small

retirement haven of Boquete in the Chiriqui province near the Costa Rica border (see

McWatters for a detailed chronicling), which is expected to add at least 5000 more

retirees in the next 15 years, creating serious social and economic concerns. One of the

pressing issues is employment. Ruben Lachman, President of the consultancy Intracrop

(as quoted in Batista 2007: 78), adds that “..in Boquete alone there will be the need for a

workforce of 25,000 by 2008, while seven years ago only 6,500 people were employed in

this area.” In Panama City, Jose Bern of Empresas Bern, a large hotel and real estate

firm, said one of his biggest problems is finding enough workers to complete the projects

(as quoted in Lakshmanan 2007). This type of growth puts enormous pressure on the

local environment and culture. The potential negative impacts are amplified because, as

Raisa Banfield, a local architect, puts it “…no plans of organization or long term

sustainability have been implemented” (quoted in Batista 2007: 78).

Another leader in the international retirement migration is movetopanama.com.

The services they provide include: real estate advisory, insurance and immigration

assistance. Similar to other companies, they organize tours to urban and rural residential

communities. Panama is also aided by the positive press it has received over the past few

years, often hailed as the best or near the best places in the world to retire. They have

capitalized on the baby boomer population that is now reaching retirement age, but that

demographic bubble has its limits. As Mario Vilar, owner of Move to Panama,

comments “we cannot expect a 20-year boom in residential tourism. Being conservative,

I give it ten more years” (as quoted in Batista, 2007: 79).

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King, R., AM. Warnes, and A.M. Williams. 1998. International Retirement Migration in
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Lakshmanan, I.A.R. 2007. Panama on the Rise. The Boston Globe. January 22.

Mander, K. and A. Boston. 1996. Wal-Mart: Global retailer. In The case


against the global economy, ed. J . Mander and E. Goldsmit, 335-343.
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McMichael, P. 1996. Globalization: Myths and realities. Rural Sociology. 61 (1): 25-55.

McWatters, M.R. 2009. Residential Tourism: (De)Constructing Paradise. Buffalo, NY:


Channel View Publications.

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Mexico and Panama. The Migration Policy Institute.

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incentives/projects-in-special-tourism-zones.

Rodgers, D. 2004. “Disembedding” the city: Crime, insecurity and spatial organization
in Managua, Nicaragua. Environment and Urbanization 16 (2): 113-123.

Rodriguez, V. 2001. Tourism as a recruiting post for retirement migration. Tourism


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Destination Panama: An Examination of the Migration-Tourism-Foreign Investment 29
Nexus

international retirement migration: new forms of an old relationship in southern


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Biographies of Authors

Edward Jackiewicz is an Associate Professor of Geography at California State


University, Northridge. His primary research interests are within the broad
spectrum of development and post-development with recent interests in: tourism,
lifestyle migration, and parks as public space. He recently co-edited the book
Placing Latin America: Contemporary Themes in Human Geography (Rowman
and Littlefield 2008).

Jim Craine is an Assistant Professor of Geography at California State University,


Northridge. His current research centers on media geography, particularly the
development of new theories for the visual engagement of geographic
information. He is a co-editor of Aether: The Journal of Media Geography.

RASAALA, Vol. 1 No.1, 5 - 29


To enter the kitchen door to people’s lives: A Multi-Method Approach in the
Research of Transnational Practices among Lifestyle Migrants

Annie Linderson
Department of Cultural Anthropology and Ethnology
Uppsala University
Sweden

Abstract

This article introduces and evaluates an ethnological qualitatively-based multi-method


approach in researching lifestyle migrant’s transnational practices in destinations of
lifestyle migration. Drawing on research of individual and collective practices of
transnationality among lifestyle migrants in a well-established region of lifestyle
migration, a multitude of methods will be discussed and reviewed; participant
experience, serial interviews, observation, walk along interviews and media orientation.

Key words: Lifestyle migration, Qualitative Methodology, Transnationality

It is said that Ethnologists enter the kitchen door to people’s lives in order to

acquire and gain knowledge of what it is like to stand in that other persons’ shoes. It is

there in the domains of the everyday life such as in a kitchen where the concrete daily

activities and conversations serve as the key to an understanding of micro implications

and possibilities that stand in sharp relation to macro structures of global and

international policies.

This article offers an ethnological multi-method approach to use in the aspiration

of entering a transnational kitchen door to lifestyle migrant’s lives in regions of lifestyle

migration. In essence the methodology in question falls under the umbrella of an

ethnography used within Anthropology. However, while the Anthropologist traditionally

has devoted extended periods of time in field in the study of the Other, the proposed

ethnological multi-method approach offers possibilities of entering and reentering the

RASAALA, Vol. 1 No.1, 31 - 52


32 Annie Linderson

field over shorter periods of time through a diverse set of gateways. The methodology

that will be recommended in this article is traced back to the roots of Ethnology in being

a discipline engaged with the cultural study of a daily life familiar to the researcher, often

in the national context of the researcher. Due to a close relation to the object, a diverse set

of methods has been a means to make the researcher unfamiliar to the common and well-

known surrounding and cultural life. In other words, the Ethnologist has had to exoticize

the object in order to distance her- or himself from the seemingly familiar, especially if

studying cultural processes in the own society or among individuals of the same

nationality as the researcher (cp. Máiréad, Kockel, & Johler, 2008). Since a multitude of

methods results in different sets of data, the multi-method approach contributes to a

reflexive, multi-layered and contextualized micro understanding of the phenomenon in

question.

Within research of lifestyle migration the approach aims to highlight different and

tangible components of the lifestyle migrant’s daily experience. To follow is a broad

review drawn on ethnographical research of transnational practices among Swedish

lifestyle migrants that have relocated to the southern Spanish coast, Costa del Sol, which

aims to illustrate possible theoretical definitions of transnational practices and suggest

methods to use in qualitatively-based studies of lifestyle migration in general terms.

Indeed, the methods described below are easily transferable to locales in Asia, Africa or

Latin America. By using the ethnological multi-method approach to enter the kitchen

door to people’s lives, Ethnology can serve as a contribution in researching lifestyle

migration.

To enter the transnational kitchen of lifestyle migrants

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To enter the kitchen door to people’s lives: A Multi-Method Approach in the Research of 33
Transnational Practices among Lifestyle Migrants

To enter the inner domains of a house symbolizes in this case to take up ethnographical

research on transnational practices among lifestyle migrants that has settled down in a

destination of tourism and leisure on a permanent basis. More specifically, the article

proposes views of how to study individual and collective relations to both old and new

country and an emerging transnationality that is practiced through the interconnection.

While approaching the kitchen door of the lifestyle migrants, the transnationality is

defined as practices to be on the one hand expressions in life stories of the transnational

life, and on the other, agency-based practices, found in the making of an everyday life led

in relation to two separate countries. The two categories of practices are considered to be

complementary and enable two different theoretical approaches; narrative analysis and

phenomenology. The intersection of constructivism and phenomenology of lived

experience constitutes a fruitful combination in giving a broad understanding of the

transnational phenomenon of permanently residing in a country, other than the country of

origin (Frykman & Gilje, 2003, p. 9; Frykman, 2006, pp. 69ff). The Swedish Ethnologist

Jonas Frykman affirms this approach by stating that two legs are more stable than one

(Frykman, 2006, p. 70).

The focal concern is practices of telling and making a transnationality from below

(Smith & Guarnizo, 1998a, 1998b. See also Povrazanović Frykman, 2004), among

lifestyle migrants with dual (or multiple) frame of reference. The transnationality can be

expressed and made through organized and institutionalized practices, as well as through

non-organized and spontaneous practices in the everyday life of the lifestyle migrant. The

dualistic or multiple perspectives derive from the general and compassing tendency of

migrations “not [being] singular journeys but tend to become an integral part of migrants’

RASAALA, Vol. 1 No.1, 31 - 52 33


34 Annie Linderson

lives” (Faist, 2000, p. 13). The concept transnationality is the result of having acquired

multiple bonds connecting one’s life across the territorial boundaries of nation-states as a

consequence of mobility and migration. The dual (or multiple) frame of reference creates

flows of “things not [only] bodies” (Mahler, 1998, p. 77) across national borders. The

result is a transnational experience embedded with news, memories, and stories between

global, national, regional and local settings. Thus, bodies can be situated on location in

country of residence while being emotionally affected by things or activities concerning

the country of origin in the same degree as if the person would actually be in the old

country. In essence the aim is to study a transnational experience that is expressed and

made, as well as how flows of ideas, values, and cross-cultural expressions affect both

the individual and the collective in the daily transnational life.

Collectively a shared consciousness is created among the lifestyle migrants of

living a similar transnational experience and having a similar dual or multiple frame of

reference resulting in cultural reproduction. A shared transnational consciousness implies

a collectively acknowledged common identity of perceiving a mental state of being at

home and away from home. Together the individuals create a transnational space made

of shared memories, stories, history, and experience (cp. Faist, 2000; Faist, 2004;

Jackson, Crang, & Dwyer, 2004). Furthermore, the transnational cultural reproduction,

associated with two or more places, blend together into a bricolage of expressed

traditions, norms and habitual action within the group. Transnational space, as a

theoretical concept, is by some scholars filled with a similar content as the concept

diaspora. Thus, the concepts, as analytical approaches, are at times used synonymously

(Povrazanović Frykman, 2004; Wahlbeck & Olsson, 2007). That is to say, place-bound

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To enter the kitchen door to people’s lives: A Multi-Method Approach in the Research of 35
Transnational Practices among Lifestyle Migrants

transnational practices collectively expressed and made create and constitute diasporic

communities (Povrazanović Frykman, 2004, pp. 82ff). The concept diasporic community

is here defined as the establishment and meaning attributed to a collective formation with

connotation to a shared place of origin in a certain geographical territory other than the

origin (for definitions of diaspora, see Safran, 1991; Cohen, 1997). This has relevance

when analyzing and describing shared features and meaning of an imagined or actual

diasporic community that are articulated and practiced among the lifestyle migrants. To

give emphasis on the collectiveness of this dimension the concept diasporic community is

chosen rather than transnational space (cp. Anderson, 1983; Cohen, 1995; Vasta, 2000).

Noteworthy is the fact that the resemblance of such community involves and is

constituted by all types of lifestyle migrants, whether they be permanent residents,

seasonal migrants, second home owners or long-stay tourists (King, Warnes, & Williams,

2000, pp. 43-44). They all figure in the specific articulation of a diasporic community in

destinations of lifestyle migration, when such is set in practice.

As mentioned earlier, the transnational phenomenon derives from at least two

separate localities. Expressed and made transnationality and diasporic experience does

not stop at the borders of a given territory but exceeds to involve multiple places, being

global, national, regional and local. To be contextually sensitive to the multiple places

and structures affecting the transnational everyday experience should, therefore, be a

given ambition throughout the analysis. The ideal is to engage in a multi-sited

ethnography, thus to follow the lifestyle migrant to the multiple sites where they are to be

found (See Watson, 1977; Marcus, 1995; Hannerz, 2003; Hannerz, 2001). However, lack

of time and the practicality of conducting fieldwork might hinder a multi-sited

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36 Annie Linderson

ethnography. It is therefore advisable to strive for a multi-sited awareness even though

the transnational practices originate and happen on one specific site (cp. Kleist, 2004,

Anthias, 1998, p. 564).

The practices are viewed as a process of making the world understandable to live

in for the individual. Thus, it is an everyday process. At times, it is goal-oriented toward

specific results. Often the process is something seemingly unconscious, effortless and

spontaneous (cp. Reksten-Kapstad, 2001, p. 11; Faist, 2004, p. 170). The practices are

considered to be a tool kit of expressions, symbols, and narratives, as well as habits,

skills, and styles, used to order life and orientate oneself in relation to how the life is led

abroad. When the individual uses a tool, he/she also demonstrates the command of a

competence or a capacity that governs the way to act and behave that is suitable for the

given situation, time or place. Thus, this knowledge is a resource for adapting to or

managing a transnational life in relation to and within a group or groups (Swindler, 1986;

Casey, 1996, p. 34; Frykman & Gilje, 2003, p. 48). This makes the practices specific to

context, place and time.

A Multi-Method Approach to the telling and the making

A definition of the practices of transnationality is now given. However, the question

remains of how to acquire the content that is hidden in the making and in the telling. The

ethnological line, as indicated, argues for a multi-method approach filtered through the

reflexivity of the researcher. This signifies that the researcher through a multitude of

methods enter different gateways to capture the activities and perceptions of the

transnational everyday life led by lifestyle migrants in places of lifestyle migration. These

entrances will also put the researcher her- or himself in the light of the study which

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demands a thorough reflexive discussion on the behalf of the researcher in order to draw

attention to the many implications of using a physical and emotional researcher self in the

field (cp. Davies, 1999). By using different and separate methods, entering the kitchen

door of the everyday life offers disparate layers of knowledge and understanding. This

enables a research with a deep and broad perspective. Rather than digging deep in

singular spots, finding more of the same, the multi-method approach opens the

ethnological gaze to new and unexplored terrains which in the long run works

complementary. By constantly removing the focus and positioning oneself sometimes as

an outsider, and then changing to the insider position, the study can be both analytically

enriched and strengthened.

The multiple methods pointed to in this article are as follows: participant

experience, series of conversational interviews, observation, walk along interviews and

orientation through media. Throughout a presentation of each method there is an

aspiration of using and adjusting the methods to the lifestyle migration context of leisure

and relaxation, as well to the specific places of tourist destinations. The context of each

separate lifestyle migration destination generates specific cultural patterns that can be

benefitted from when applying different methods.

Transnational subject

To put a multitude of methods into a practical research approach, the first gateway into

the kitchen of the lifestyle migrant is to use the researcher self as a transnational subject.

Inspired by the phenomenological approach (Frykman, 2006; Frykman & Gilje, 2003;

Bengtsson, 2001) the use of the own actions, interactions, impressions and thoughts of

the transnational lifestyle is a way to gather understanding while residing in a destination

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38 Annie Linderson

of lifestyle migrants during a period of fieldwork. The daily life in field is recorded in a

reflective field diary. Being an insider in this sense is inspired by the well-established

method participant observation but expanded into participant experience (Hansen, 2003,

p. 160). Time and engagement has proven to be vital in participating and experiencing the

transnational reality in situ. Camouflaged by the distinguished feature of a constant

circulation of tourists and temporary or permanent lifestyle migrants in and out of areas

common for lifestyle migration, participant experience as a method is most suitable to the

culture of such regions.

The reception of a researcher in lifestyle migration areas differs but my own

experience is that the sudden appearance of me as a researcher was not being perceived

as anything extra ordinary. I was just like any other person whose motives for dwelling in

the area was seldom questioned or asked for. Certainly for those initiated, my work as a

researcher was looked upon with fascination and curiosity although I was often kept at

arms length outside my role as a researcher. However, this too I found to be a notable

ingredient of the daily life the lifestyle migrants have adopted in my research – the

atmosphere is opened to people of all kinds with a diversity of backgrounds which as

such are generally not of primary interest when getting acquainted with new people. It

seems like the main ambition is to stay present in the here and now, regardless of

previous achievements, networks, or status.

As a result of the welcoming environment, I easily became an actor within the

lifestyle migrant community and found a place where I could make informal contacts and

conversations on a daily basis, above all through institutions with connotations with the

home country of the migrants, like a church and a school. I took part in community

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activities such as singing with the church choir and with a smaller group of vocalists,

made visits to the school and gave a lecture there about Ethnology and my research

project to High School students, participated in the media that was directed toward the

lifestyle migrants, as well as engaged in the different types of social events in the

destination. The type of knowledge gained through this method is a first hand experience

of alterations in the group throughout the seasons, different types of networking within

the group, daily activities and interactions with the host society etc.

In this procedure the researcher self is central in the collection of data which puts

an emphasis on previous knowledge, experience, and the continuous reflexivity of these

factors when using the self as a transnational subject. In my research, I gained help from

my previous experience in the area while being a student of the local language, as well as

conducting fieldwork related to my Master’s thesis. Equally, my knowledge of the

language per se together with living several periods of my life in the country enabled a

pre-understanding of living in the country as a foreign woman. Hence, taking a

transnational stand during my time in fieldwork has not been difficult. It has rather

followed the common order of the lifestyle migration since research has shown it is often

preceded by holidays and other types of travel on location (King et al., 2000, p. 27;

O’Reilly, 2000, p. 25).

Albeit having a general pre-knowledge of the phenomenon as well as the host

country, the same pre-understanding has forced me to strive to frame myself from fixed

notions that I have gained before hand. I have had to put myself curiously anew to dis-

remember or decode myself from preconceived notions of the lifestyle migration

everyday life (Frykman, 2006, p. 68). More so, my gender, age and private

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40 Annie Linderson

circumstances, such as not having children of my own, restrained me to naturally get

access to all events and places of the lifestyle migrant experience. Seldom could I join the

activities of the retired groups on an equal basis as the pensioners. Nor had I access to the

activities for families and small children. Thus, I was left out of the daily interactions and

conversations in cases like the mentioned. At the occasions where I naturally could take

part in such activities, my outsider position was emphasized since ordinary talk differs

depending on the participants’ similarities in age, gender, region of origin, length of stay,

reason for stay, etc. Circumstances like these ought to be taken into account while

interpreting the data of the method.

Finally, it has been important to not seek validation or proof of already defined

perceptions of what living as a transnational might mean to the individuals residing as

lifestyle migrants. The multi-method approach, in its own sense, also hinders

preconceived notions since the main feature of this procedure is a constant shift of focus

along the process. The Anthropologist Michael Jackson encourages the researcher to

leave interpretation and theorizing behind while being in fieldwork (Jackson, 1996, pp.

7ff). Along the same lines, it is important to put an emphasis on the adjustments a

researcher might have to do depending on the local culture and structure within the

lifestyle migrant community.

Serial interviews

A second method focuses on the different kinds of perceptions and meanings of the

transnational experience expressed in life stories. The narratives are told through in-depth

interviews which gives the fieldwork a specific objective. A series of conversational

interviews is proposed with a smaller number of migrants residing permanently on the

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location in question. To give the interviews an in-depth character it is helpful to meet the

informants on several occasions. Each occasion might vary between one to several hours,

depending on the chemistry and talkativeness of interviewer and interviewee. The aim is

to let the interviewees thoroughly tell their emigration experience, their perception of

being in a voluntarily lifestyle migrant position, and their strategies of living their

everyday life in reference to a country of origin different from the country of residence.

Thus, the interviews are considered to have more of a life story character than a

traditional interview (Atkinson, 1998). In my own research each interview has had a

different theme and been designed in an open and explorative manner with an aspiration

to follow the interview where it brought us.

The interview experience turned out to be challenging since what I as a researcher

considered to be transnational in the lives of the respondents often was incorporated in

such a way that it was taken for granted. For example, asking specific questions in

themselves hinted to what I as a researcher considered to be of importance for my

research. Obviously, this led to answers following the same direction. The interview,

thus, shed a light on tangible parts of transnational aspects of the lifeworlds which to the

interviewees was no more than an integrated and naturalized state of being. In this way,

the presence of a researcher interested in the notions of the exile position in relation to a

presupposed stand in-between national cultures in its own sense actualized the sought of

position. Therefore, the ambition was to let the interviewee speak more freely about their

life. My task was, then, rather to follow the threads of narrative that I found important for

the transnational lives the respondents led with additional questions on the topic. I tried to

open the interview in a broad and general manner stating the overall topic we were going

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42 Annie Linderson

to talk about in order to get us started. However, whenever the conversation came to a

halt I had to ask more specific questions to lead us back on the transnational track.

The first conversational interview was, therefore, held in a general manner about

the emigration experience as such. The second occasion was on the other hand

concentrated to the individuals’ connection and contact with host society versus home

society. The third conversation dealt with how to create belongingness and sense of

home. During the fourth occasion we spoke of civil issues such as citizenship, social

responsibility and loyalty to the two countries in question. If there was reason to cut

down the interview sessions the series of interviews was narrowed down to three times,

thus melting discussions of theme three and four together. The interviews took place in

different locations such as cafés, in their work place or in the home of the individuals. All

locations were chosen by the informants themselves.

Meeting several times for conversational interviews has proven to be very

pertinent in many ways. With time, both trust and confidence is built up between the

interviewer and the interviewees. This enables a better understanding of each individual

story and background than had there only been one interview. More so, a series of

interviews gives the researcher the possibility to ask clarifying questions when there is

something uncertain and fill in the blanks in the story being told. Overall, the method of

conducting several interviews with the same persons has proven to be most suitable to the

lifestyles led on tourist destinations. A common feature is the notion of having more

flexible and spontaneous attitude towards time than what the informants thought of as a

general tendency in the home country. Since some have relocated to these types of areas

for the purpose of leading a slower pace of life, far from full agendas and scheduling, the

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choice of method matched the rhythm of the lives of the respondents. It has never been

hard to interfere as many times as needed with the series of interviews. The same order of

conduct will probably not work in a busy city life elsewhere in the western world. To

illustrate this state of being one interviewee, Anna, is a good example. She has adopted

many of the everyday habits of her host society and stressed how much she valued the

different time management experienced in her new country. Therefore, she always asked

not to be called too long in advance since she wanted to do things in line with the mood

she found herself in there and then.

The disadvantages of this approach have turned out to be logistical. Contrary to

the much appreciated impulsiveness of the coastal life, a lot of the time in field the

researcher has to devote to planning and organizing prior to and after the meetings which

is very tiresome. More so, the requirements for successfully conducting multiple

interviews with the same person are talkativeness on the behalf of the respondent, a

shared interest in the conversation, and a good chemistry between the researcher and the

informant. Naturally, these requirements can not always be fulfilled which might

complicate the procedure.

The search of informants can have the character of the illustrious ‘snowball

effect,’ i.e. a very spontaneous, flexible routine of asking random people on location if

they want to be a part of the study. Furthermore, e-mailing companies that address the

lifestyle migrant population where possibly other migrants might work and ask if their

staff wants to participate is another strategy. In addition, asking the interviewees already

engaged in the study if they could recommend someone else willing to be interviewed

can be helpful.

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44 Annie Linderson

In my own research, I realized that it was easier for me to find female

interviewees, who often without a doubt decided to participate. Being a young-looking

female myself, I was perhaps perceived as a daughter or a granddaughter to some of the

elderly female interviewees. For the younger women in the study, I found that they had a

need to talk about their experience abroad and openly stated that as a reason for

participating. The meetings with the women were often of ‘girl-talk over coffee’- nature.

Thus, the occasions resulted in both very unconstrained and open-hearted conversations

about the experiences of the life abroad.

On the other hand, I experienced a greater challenge in finding male interviewees.

Some were very reluctant when I approached them, others even unfriendly. The reason

might be found in the negative and suspicious media coverage over the years in their

home country about the lifestyle migrant phenomenon which might have caused the men

to be hesitant towards a scientific study. The difficulty in finding men willing to talk to

me naturally caused a stress during the fieldwork. Many of the male participants were,

therefore, found with the generous assistance from other interviewees. In sum, the

researcher has to equally be open to the field and let it show the way, as well as have a set

agenda which gives the work a sense of stability (cp. Kaijser & Öhlander, 1999).

Observing and describing

The third method to use is observation. With the gaze of an outsider the researcher can

place her- or himself on separate occasions and on different locations, as well as in

special events connoting the transnational experience for lifestyle migrants. From this

outside position the task is to make descriptions, using the five senses, of both actions

and places on two levels; the overall distanced perspective and the small detailed

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perspective with the aspiration of reaching the close up and personal. This method forces

the researcher to frame her- or himself from the common and taken for granted and take a

closer look at actions and the interactions between, on the one hand individuals and

secondly; individuals and material places. Thus, this is most suitable when describing the

making of transnationality, especially when it comes to specific events such as

celebrations of different types.

Important descriptive material can also be found through this method (and its

methodological cousin; taking visual field notes with a camera) of the specific location

where the transnational practices take place since the practices, as mentioned earlier, are

both context and place specific. Thus, in understanding the transnational phenomenon

and culture on destinations of lifestyle migration, the place in itself has to be scrutinized

which it can be while using a three-fold descriptive system (Bäckman, 2009, pp. 129-

130): 1) material limitations and possibilities of a place, 2) emotional and subjective

values attributed a place (cp. Tuan, 1974), and 3) collective and social representations

and perceptions of a place (Massay, 1994). Hence, observation is used when studying the

first aspect of place, the material limitations and possibilities. In this sense the method

will generate specific descriptive data, which might be perceived as too limited or

narrow. However, in conjunction with other types of methods it is an important

complementary resource. The shift of searchlight from the insider to the outsider position

adds descriptive richness to the analyzed practices.

Walking along

To be able to capture the second aspect of researching place through the above mentioned

system, as well as deepen the knowledge of the transnational practice further, an

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46 Annie Linderson

additional fourth method is insightful; walk along-interviews. Also known as go-along

method (Kusenbach, 2003), and walk-about interviews (cp. Coleman & Collins, 2006),

this method is a mixture of participant experience, observing and interviewing. That is,

the lifestyle migrant gives a guided tour of places and spots important to them and while

doing so tells the researcher their reflections and understanding of their everyday life.

With some this might mean a walk together through their common streets and squares;

with others the method signifies going by car while following their normal everyday

route of life. In a more natural and spontaneous way, the lifestyle migrant can tell stories

about their experience as they come about associatively and embedded in the places

while moving around (cp. Casey, 1996, p. 16). The philosopher Edward S. Casey states:

“There is no knowing or sensing a place except by being in that place, and to be in a

place is to be in a position to perceive it” (Casey, 1996, p. 18). Accordingly, through the

guided tours the researcher can learn and understand the knowledge and meaning

attributed to the place where the lifestyle migrant has chosen to reside. The ideas and

thoughts of the lifestyle migrant can both be traced back in time when events that once

has happened in the urban environment unfolds into memories, as well as remain

experiences that the researcher share together with the interviewee there and then sensing

and moving through the streets and plazas together. Thus, this method opens the eyes to

the streets, the squares, the buildings and the action taken place in this urban setting in

new ways with the interviewees’ competence of the places, their trained eyes and stories

to tell (cp. Kusenbach, 2003, p. 466ff).

More favorably, this method is exercised spontaneously with the informant in

order to avoid tailoring the walk to places the interviewee thinks is suitable for a

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researcher to see. If the walk along-interviews are scheduled before hand, this possibility

ought to be considered. Another approach to avoid tailoring the walks is to ask

specifically for a guided tour of the places of most importance to the person. By

suggesting a planned walk the pitfall of walking along becomes part of the methodology

and can be used in the reflexive interpretation of the data acquired.

Media orientation

A final method is to orientate oneself in the lifestyle migration phenomenon while

continuously collecting, reading and analyzing media in home country and on the specific

location. The issues of concern can be lives led abroad in general, and the lifestyle

migrant community in the region of study in particular. Furthermore, this is a method to

use in order to attain knowledge of collective and social representations and perceptions

of a place, which is the third aspect when studying place as mentioned earlier.

In the wake of the increasing lifestyle migration phenomenon an amount of media

production of different types that addresses the lifestyle migrant might have been

established. The sources of media can involve newspapers, magazines, television

channels, radio stations, homepages, and blogs that can be accessed through Internet.

Their aim can be to cater to the lifestyle migration community in being a link between the

lifestyle migrant population and host society on issues concerning the transnational life

along the coast. More so, the media outlets might mediate practical information on issues

of relocation and adaptation for newcomers or citizens in home society with an interest in

becoming a lifestyle migrant. The material generated from media collection and analysis

forms a base, an orientation and a possibility to keep the researcher up-dated on news and

concerns within the group, especially in between periods of fieldwork. Furthermore, the

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48 Annie Linderson

media coverage of the lifestyle migration communities in the home country gives an

understanding of how the phenomenon is valued, perceived and thought of in the country

of origin. Understanding these points of reference has been vital since the everyday life

led in areas of lifestyle migration often has proved to be viewed through lenses of general

notions and structures in the old country.

The media orientation approach is used complementary in the study of

transnational practices among lifestyle migrants. The data produced forms a background

to actions, interactions and activities that individual lifestyle migrants might engage in

which perhaps is portrayed in media. In addition and as mentioned earlier, the method

deals specifically with collective and social representation of the phenomenon in media.

Both sets of data are imperative in order to contextualize individual’s transnational

experience as well as lifestyle migration as a transnational phenomenon through the

logics of the local, the regional, the national and the global order the migrants live by

continuously and simultaneously.

Inside the kitchen

Entering the kitchen door for a rich and thorough understanding of what the daily

experiences of lifestyle migration is really like, this article is arguing for a plural usage of

qualitatively based methods. Through research of transnational practices, the aim has

been to present how a usage of different methods can serve in the study of lifestyle

migration. Shifting focus through a multi-method approach highlights complementary

and tangible activities and expressions captured while using the kitchen door to the

lifestyle migrant’s transnational everyday life. The methods chosen are suggested to be

carefully adjusted to the constitution and suitability of the cultural patterns of each

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lifestyle migration destination. The adjustments can be both of a trial and error-character,

as well as being the result of thoughtful reflexivity prior to entering the field and along

the process of researching. The presentations of methods have intended to be transparent

in showing both possibilities and constraints of being a reflexive researcher when using

qualitative methods in regions of lifestyle migration.

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Biography of author
Annie Linderson is a PhD student in Ethnology at the Department of Cultural
Anthropology and Ethnology, Uppsala University in Sweden. The objective of her
research is to analyze practices of transnationality of Swedish lifestyle migrants

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52 Annie Linderson

on Costa del Sol, in the south of Spain. Her research is based on ethnographical
fieldwork conducted during the spring 2009. Key concepts in her research are:
transnationality, mobility, diasporic community, Swedishness, Spanishness,
belongingness and translocational positionality.

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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi,
India

Mari Korpela
University of Tampere, Finland

Abstract

The article investigates Western lifestyle migrants in the city of Varanasi in northern
India. Relying on interview material, the author first discusses how the Westerners
distinguish themselves from “ordinary” people in their countries of origin. However, in
addition to distinguishing themselves from ordinary Westerners, they also define
themselves as fundamentally different from “the Indian other”, which becomes very
evident in their interview talk. The author argues that the Westerners’ contacts with local
Indian people in Varanasi are very limited and Indian people are merely granted the role
of the insignificant “other” in the process of the Westerners defining their distinctive
identities. The article thus shows that the Westerners define themselves as courageous,
independent and active agents both against Indian and Western others. The Western
lifestyle migrants in Varanasi also share a discourse of having found their true selves
in India and have changed fundamentally during their time there. The author
eventually argues that although the Westerners articulate their stay in India as a quest
for a better life, eventually staying in India seems to become a trip to the self and for the
self.
Keywords: lifestyle migration, Otherness, Varanasi

Introduction

“I feel more true here.” (Anton, 32)

This is how many Westerners in the city of Varanasi, India reply to the question of why

they prefer living in India compared to their countries of origin. In other words, they

claim to have found their true selves in India. In this article, I elaborate on the statement:

what is the true self that they are talking about? I argue that the Westerners in Varanasi

define themselves against the ‘ordinary’ citizens of their home countries but also against

the ‘Indian other’, as a consequence of which being in India becomes a process of

defining one’s distinctive self.

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54 Mari Korpela

Backpackers and Lifestyle Migrants in India

India was already a popular travel destination in the colonial era (see, Ghose,

1998a, 1998b; Mohanty, 2003), and in the late 1960s and early 1970s, it became a

popular backpacking destination among hippies (see, Alderson, 1971; Hall, 1968;

MacLean, 2006; Mehta, 1979; Odzer, 1995; Saldanha, 2007, p. 29; Tomory, 1996; Wiles,

1972). Thousands of backpackers still tour India every year (see Hottola, 1999; Hutnyk,

1996; Maoz, 2005; Wilson, 1997). India attracts backpackers above all because of its

‘exoticism’ and cheapness. The backpacking infrastructure is well developed and there

are numerous cheap hotels and Western restaurants in all the popular travel destinations.

In addition, one can reach almost anywhere by inexpensive public transportation and

English is widely spoken. However, despite these advantages, backpackers often

understand a visit to India more as a duty and a challenge than a pleasurable experience

due to the fact that India also represents poverty, filth and illness (see Wilson, 1997, p.

55).

After their trip, most backpackers return to their home countries to continue their

lives there. Some, however, enjoy India so much that they go to their countries of origin

— or other Western countries — only in order to earn money, and they end up returning

to India again and again. Instead of continuing backpacking, they often settle down in

certain locations in India. For them, the stage that was supposed to be a temporary phase

becomes a lot longer than initially planned, and the backpacking experience results in a

lifestyle in which they spend long periods of time in India where they claim to have

found a better life. This article focuses on a group of such people in the city of Varanasi

in northern India. Most of the people featuring here were once backpackers and now

repeatedly return to Varanasi and as a consequence I define them as lifestyle migrants.

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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 55

Lifestyle migration refers to a phenomenon where (middle class) citizens of

affluent industrialized countries move abroad in order to find a more meaningful and

relaxed life (see Benson & O’Reilly, 2009; O’Reilly & Benson, 2009). Very often, such

migration means moving from affluent countries to less affluent ones where living costs

are cheaper and the climate is pleasant. For example, British, German, and Scandinavian

people move to Spain, some Brits also move to rural France and some Americans move

to Central America. In short, lifestyle migration is motivated by a quest for a ‘better

quality’ of life. The choice of living abroad is typically conceptualized as an escape from

the hectic, consumer-oriented lifestyles and the ‘rat race’. According to Michaela Benson,

many lifestyle migrants move because of diminishing income opportunities, for example

when they lose their jobs; some others escape pressurized working environments and

retired lifestyle migrants often claim that old people are not valued in their societies of

origin, whereas in the destinations they can grow old with dignity and continue to be

active (Benson, 2007, pp.13-15). Additional contributing factors for lifestyle migration

are that income levels have increased in the affluent industrialized countries in recent

decades and an increasing number of people have experience in living abroad (Williams

& King & Warners & Patterson, 2000, p. 31).

In lifestyle migration, the boundaries between migration and tourism are blurred.

In fact, many scholars nowadays place tourism and migration on the same continuum,

where it is difficult to distinguish between temporary and permanent moves (see Bell &

Ward, 2000, p. 88; Gustafson, 2002, p.104, p. 899; O’Reilly, 2003, p. 301). The main

difference between lifestyle migrants and tourists is that tourists are in a temporary

situation, planning to return to their home countries within a specific time period,

whereas lifestyle migrants do not have such plans – or even desire to return.

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56 Mari Korpela

Although this article focuses on Varanasi, it is by no means the only location in

India that attracts Western lifestyle migrants. There are in fact various popular places, all

of which attract Westerners for different reasons. The beaches of the states of Goa and

Kerala are the most well-known (see, D’Andrea, 2007; Saldanha, 2007; Wilson, 1997). In

addition to its beautiful beaches, Goa is also famous for its techno music parties and a

wide variety of drugs. Moreover, various locations on the Himalaya mountains are

popular: Dharamsala attracts those interested in Tibetan Buddhism, being the home of the

Dalai Lama and thousands of Tibetan refugees, and some other locations in the

mountains, for example Manali, attract those interested in smoking hash. Those interested

in spiritual matters gather for example to Poona near Mumbai, Auroville in southern

India or Rishikesh in northern India. In Poona, there is the famous Osho International

meditation resort, Auroville is ‘the universal town’ for all humanity, and Rishikesh is

famous for its numerous yoga and meditation courses. The places that are popular among

Westerners in India are usually villages or towns; the big Indian cities do not attract

Western lifestyle migrants with maybe the exception of Kolkata which attracts students

of Indian classical music as well as those interested in voluntary charity work in the

Mother Teresa organisation.

Westerners in Varanasi

This article is based on the anthropological research conducted among Western

lifestyle migrants in Varanasi over thirteen months in 2002-2003. Varanasi, one of the

oldest living cities in the world, is a holy city of Hinduism with over a million

inhabitants, situated on the banks of the river Ganges. Hindus believe Varanasi to be the

home of the supreme god Shiva and it is an important pilgrimage centre. Diane Eck, an

indologist, writes that ‘it is precisely because Banaras [Varanasi] has become a symbol of

traditional Hindu India that Western visitors have often found this city the most strikingly
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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 57

“foreign” of India’s cities’ (Eck, 1983, p. 9). For many Westerners, Varanasi indeed

represents a sign of Eastern otherness. However, most of the Western lifestyle migrants

are not there because of being attracted to Hinduism but because of their interest in

classical Indian music. Varanasi is a centre of music in India and some of the most

famous Indian musicians, for example Ravi Shankar and Bishmillah Khan, have lived

there.

The Westerners in Varanasi come from Europe, Israel, Canada and Australia

amounting to 200-300 during the popular season that starts in October and ends in May1.

Most of them are of middle class origin. In Varanasi, the Westerners live in the same

houses year after year and have all the necessary household utensils there. For many, the

lifestyle has lasted for years, even decades. Typically, the Westerners work for a few

months in menial jobs or sell Indian textiles and handicrafts in markets and festivals in

their countries of origin and then spend the rest of the year in India, living on the money

they have earned in those temporary jobs. Most of them are twenty to thirty-five years old

but some are forty to fifty, with men forming the majority. In Varanasi, they all live in

one particular area within walking distance of each other, renting apartments in local

houses. Most Westerners in Varanasi play Indian instruments and some do yoga,

meditation or charity work. A lot of time is spent socializing with friends, and they end

up forming a tight, yet temporary, community there (see Korpela, 2009).

The community of Westerners in Varanasi mainly functions in (grammatically

poor) English mixed with common Hindi expressions. I refer to these people as

‘Westerners’ due to the fact that in Varanasi differences between various Western

nationalities seem to disappear when opposed with the ‘Indian other’. The Westerners

1
The summer months are extremely hot and wet.
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58 Mari Korpela

understand this ‘Westernity’ to mean above all a certain kind of education, knowledge of

certain popular cultures and appreciation of certain values; especially individuality and

freedom. ‘The West’ becomes unified also in their everyday lives in Varanasi. An

everyday example in which the common Western identity becomes manifested is food.

When the Westerners cook together, the most popular dish is pasta, and it is understood

as a common Western dish (instead of representing Italian cuisine). When food and other

goods or values are defined as ‘Western’, the crucial factor is classifying them as ‘non-

Indian’. Moreover, when they explain their lifestyle choice they often criticize the ‘West’

instead of criticizing merely their specific countries of origin.

My study was ethnographic and the methods used were participant observation

and interviews. While in Varanasi, I participated in the everyday activities of the

Westerners and kept a detailed field diary of my participant observation. The very intense

social life of the Westerners includes parties and concerts as well as frequent visits,

cooking, eating and hanging out together. In addition to participant observation, I

interviewed 44 Westerners who were staying in Varanasi for at least two months (most

for longer) and who had also been there for long periods before. The focus of this article

is on how the Westerners in Varanasi define their self-identities.

Defining the Self Against the Western Other

A lot [of people] are not happy. They listen to me saying, maybe I'll go to India for three
months, and they say ”oh, I wish to go, ah, you are lucky” and blaah blaah but ”hallo
Bombay, calo2 Bombay” I say, ”no, come on”. They prefer one newspaper, one big sofa,
putting their legs up, watching TV until bedtime, sex once a week after the news of the
night, Friday…Because the day after you do not work, so you can sleep a little bit more and
you can enjoy half an hour more… yeah, it is like this for a lot of people. (Anton, 32)3

2
Calo: Let’s go.
3
The interviews were conducted in English, which is not the mother tongue of most of the interviewees. In
this artcile, I have corrected only the most obvious language mistakes in their speech patterns. After each
interview quotation, I have marked a pseudonym and the person’s correct age at the time of the interview.
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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 59

I get this overwhelming feeling in my country of origin that people are […] doing a prison
sentence: They are in, they got this amount of time they gotta do. They are just trying to get
through this the best they can […] It’s all about making the time pass. (Jamie, 26)

Q: Are you different from people in your country of origin?


A: I think yes, I’m totally different. […] At least I do something interesting for me. I meet
different people. (Marco, 34)

My interviewees often claimed that people in the West are unhappy without

realizing it. They considered themselves very lucky to have left behind the boring and

meaningless life in their countries of origin. India had offered them a chance to search for

something different, and better. Many of my interviewees defined themselves as

courageous and independent in comparison to people who had stayed in their countries of

origin. When talking about lifestyle choices, they held a very individualistic view.

Q: What do you think people in your country of origin think about your lifestyle?
A: […] I think everybody can have this lifestyle if they want it. You want it, you can do it.
The only thing is you might have to make some money first. (Ivan, 45)

In my interviewees’ understanding, the possibility of and responsibility for having

an interesting and meaningful life lies with each individual. By using such a discourse,

they ended up defining themselves as active agents in opposition to passive people who

blindly follow routines ‘in the prison’, and in their case it was not only a matter of words

but also of actual practices.

Most of my interviewees claimed that leaving their countries of origin had helped

them to realize their true selves, and many also seem to have become empowered in the

process, that is, they emphasized acting as individual agents.

Q: Do you feel you have changed in India?


A: Yes, a lot.
Q: How?
A: When I was child, I thought I have to do what everybody does […] Everybody has a job,
everybody gets married, everybody gets a career…But when I started to live here, I realized
that it’s best when I do what I want. I should do what I want. (Naima, 31)

[Ivan is telling his life story]


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60 Mari Korpela

I was really sort of unsatisfied with that life, I felt trapped but I didn’t know what to do and
then, the opportunity for travelling came up, and I knew this was, I had to learn about
myself, to find out what makes me happy. (Ivan, 45)

As the above quotations show, the goal is happiness and individual satisfaction: it

is all about the self. At the same time, the emphasis on individualism allows them a

positive self-definition as active agents: they have done something – they have moved

abroad – to improve their lives.

It is remarkable that the Westerners in Varanasi have gone to India to find their

true selves and to realize their individuality. Indian cultures are usually not characterized

in individualistic terms but quite the opposite: in orientalist discourse, India represents

collective values whereas the West is described in terms of individualism (see, Goody,

1996, p. 246; Turner, 1994, p. 54; van der Veer, 1993, p. 37). As outsiders — far away

from home and commitments there — the Westerners in Varanasi are able to gain

freedom: because they do not belong to the local social networks, commitments and

expectations there, they are free to pursue individual happiness. Locals are definitely not

free in the same sense in Varanasi. Therefore, when the Westerners realize their own

individuality in India, it is actually not Indian culture that has made them free but their

outsider status, and by no means are they aiming to ‘go native’ in India, that is to become

like Indian people are.

Defining the Self Against the Indian Other

Q: Do you feel different from Indian women?


A: […] For me, Indian people are children, they are big children for sure […] because they
don’t have responsibilities at all. Not at all. Even when they grow up, always you have your
parents giving you money or looking at what you want to do, what you want, and it’s not
like ‘ok, mom, dad, I take my luggage and I calo4, I go’. (Donna, 28)

Q: Do you feel you are different from Indian men?


A: In a way yes.
Q: How?

4
Calo: ‘Go’ or ‘Let’s go’. It is an imperative form of calnaa (to go) but the Westerners often, wrongly, use
it to mean ‘I go’ or ‘I leave’.
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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 61

A: I’ve got aspirations, I aspire. A lot of Indian men, they take life as it is. They say […]
Right now I’m like this and this will never change. And a lot of them are very self-defeating
in a way because […] I often get from Indian people a sense of giving up and a feeling of
not being able to change a certain situation. It might look very, very, very calm […] but I
think that Indian society is very structured and for a person not to feel completely at home
in this situation is terrible, because they can’t get out as easily as I can. I have, yeah, I’m
different because I’m more free. (David, 28)

When I asked my interviewees about differences between themselves and Indian

people, most of them characterized Indians in negative and simplified terms. In both

quotations above, independence and free will become distinguishing markers against

Indians: culture prevents Indians from being independent whereas Western cultures and

the Western selves of my interviewees become defined as highly individualistic.

I asked my interviewees whether they feel different from Indian men and women

and the answers usually contained long reflections on fundamental differences. Usually

those answers tell more about the Westerners themselves than they tell about Indians.

Whether it was Western men defining themselves vis-à-vis Indian men or Western

women defining themselves vis-à-vis Indian women, ‘Indians’ were understood as one

and differences regarding, for example, class or age were usually ignored. Indians are

merely granted the role of the insignificant ‘other’. In this process, the Westerners place

themselves in a position of judgement from where they are able to see ‘the Indian other’

against which they present themselves as active agents responsible for their own

decisions and actions. One can even see traces of racism in the Westerners’ views

although they themselves would most likely argue the opposite if asked.

Self-definition plays a part also in the following quotation from a Western man.

Q: Are you different from Indian men? […]


A: […] They are lazy.
Q: Indians are lazy?
A: Indians are lazy, it’s a big difference. If you don’t say [anything], they don’t do nothing.
So that’s a big difference and they have no […] responsibility, I think, they don’t have so
much responsibility. […] They don’t care, I think. (Patrick, 21)

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62 Mari Korpela

Patrick’s comment is very interesting because laziness and irresponsibility are

accusations that these Westerners often face themselves. They meet such criticism in

their countries of origin, where they are often accused of being parasites who enjoy an

easy life without working. Moreover, locals in Varanasi often see the Western lifestyle

migrants as lazy. Yet, the Westerners themselves do not view themselves as lazy: they

claim to simply concentrate on doing things that they enjoy, for example studying Indian

classical music.

In the case of the Western women, defining the self against the ‘Indian other’ is

even more significant than it is for the Western men: many Western women in Varanasi

define themselves as strong, free, independent and progressive, in opposition to unfree,

dependent and oppressed Indian woman (see Korpela, 2006; compare with Mohanty,

1991). In addition to distinguishing themselves from Indian women in their talk, the

Western women distinguish themselves also via their clothing as even when they use

local clothing, they use it differently from local women.

Q: Do you feel you are different from Indian women?


A: …Yes.
Q: How?
A: Because Indian women, they accept not being free. They feel normal not to be free, just
being at home, not going outside …For me, it’s very different, I have a very different spirit.
(Sylvia, 38)

I wouldn’t like to be Indian, Indian girl. […] They are not so free as we are in Europe. We, I
am used to this freedom. I cannot imagine being Indian but I don’t think they have a
problem with this because they stay at home but they don’t mind, they have no idea about
going away [it does not come to their mind to leave]. (Sara, 32)

Sara’s comment implies that if Indian women knew about the possibilities for

freedom, they would like to have them too, that is, they would like to be as Western

women are. This is obviously a very ethnocentric and evolutionist view but it is very

common among the Westerners in Varanasi. Such comments also suggest that although

in some respects, the Westerners criticize ‘the West’, in other respects they appreciate it.
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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 63

Usually, my interviewees saw Indian women as one. Some acknowledged

regional differences5 but none acknowledged class differences. Above all, many

Westerners in Varanasi see Indian women as housewives, and such comments are clearly

a part of the Western women defining themselves as essentially different, that is, as active

and independent. The Western men share the view of Indian women as a homogenous

group.

The whole life, they [Indian women] more or less stay at home. They don’t even want to
leave home. Taking care of the family, cooking. Many times even passing the day, just all
day you can relax, all day stay in the house and enjoy. Usually Western people cannot do
this, if you tell them just the day in the house with nothing to do, they would go crazy.
(Noel, 31)

Noel seemed to have a rather unrealistic view of housework. I first thought that

the comment is gender-related, that is, it is a typical male view but I was wrong: I heard a

Western woman once explaining that Indian babies do not use diapers because the

mothers do not have anything else to do except taking care of their babies whereas

Western women are busy with other things and therefore, do not have time to clean after

a diaper-free baby. Not all the Westerners in Varanasi share this view of Indian

housewives living a life of leisure but it nevertheless exists among them, and it is used to

define the Western women as active, independent agents.

In this section, it has become evident that the Western lifestyle migrants in

Varanasi talk about Indian men and women in very simplistic terms. Here, one may start

to wonder how it is possible that such views prevail.

Indian Friends: A Contradiction in Terms

The Western lifestyle migrants in Varanasi live in local neighbourhoods, renting

apartments from local families. Consequently, the Westerners cannot avoid contact with
5
An example of acknowledged regional differences that the Westerners often mention is that women in the
mountains (north) or in Kerala (south) are more independent than women in Varanasi.
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64 Mari Korpela

local Indian people. One of my interviewees blamed some Westerners for not knowing

their Indian neighbours even when they had lived in Varanasi for years. The same

interviewee, however, admitted that he himself did not have Indian friends. Having local

friends turned out to be a problematic issue for almost all my interviewees.

Q: Do you have Indian friends?


A: Good question! (laughs) Very good question, yeah. It depends on the definition of a
friend. […] not, really no. And this is funny because the first time I went [back to Europe],
a lot of my friends asked me ‘but you are still in contact with Indian friends there. You
continue to write or phone or whatever’ and I was thinking suddenly that I don’t have
Indian friends really. (Donna, 28)

The Westerners’ relationships with locals in Varanasi are usually instrumental:

their Indian acquaintances are landlords, shopkeepers or music teachers. In other words,

there is a service connection. Most of my interviewees say that they do not have any

Indian friends. Some have local friends but even they usually say that they do not share

their lives with them the same way as they do with their Western friends. When my

interviewees explained the lack of local friends, they referred to cultural differences that

they consider to be fundamental. Rather many of my interviewees mentioned that the

Indian conception of friendship is very different from the Western one. They are thus

referring to culturally bound ways of making friends and eventually suggesting that

cross-cultural friendships are a contradiction in terms.

Q: Do you feel different from Indian people?


A: […] We [Westerners] want to make friendship and they [Indians] want money. (laughs)
Maybe it’s the main difference. (Sara, 32)

A reoccurring complaint among the Westerners in Varanasi is the belief that

Indian people consider all Westerners rich and they always try to benefit from Westerners

economically. This irritates many. ‘I am not a bank’ said a Western man to an Indian

acquaintance who was asking for money from him. Many Westerners acknowledge the

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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 65

structural causes behind such behaviour but are determined to avoid any unpleasant

consequences for themselves. Many of the Westerners occasionally give money or goods

to beggars and other poor people but they do not like to be asked, that is, they do not like

to be put in the position of a patron.

Obviously the lack of language proficiency is an obstacle for getting to know

locals: most Western lifestyle migrants in Varanasi know very little, if any, Hindi and

many locals do not speak English. On the other hand, a few of my interviewees also

mentioned that those locals who speak good English are usually very ‘modern’ and

‘Westernized’, thus they do not understand why the Westerners are so enthusiastic about

Indian traditions. Here, the difference is not understood in terms of India versus the West

but in terms of ‘modern’ middle class values versus a counterculture that idealizes

ancient ‘authentic’ India. In fact, the English-speaking middle class of Varanasi may have

more in common with middle classes in the West than they do with the Westerners who

are searching for the ‘simple’ and ‘authentic’ life in Varanasi (for the viewpoint of

modern Indian men and for the difficulty of applying the term middle class in Indian

context, see Favero, 2005). It may also be that having a different educational background

contributes to the Westerners’ dislike of middle class Indians as many of them have

rather little formal education, and they typically claim not to value such education. The

Westerners, however, do not usually recognize themselves as being less educated than

many (middle or upper class) Indians but instead often refer to uneducated Indians with

whom, in their view, deep discussions are impossible.

Q: Which things do you appreciate and which are problematic [in India]?
A: It’s very rare, the conversation I could have with Westerners, I could have with Indians.
More or less, they won’t have the ability to understand what I try to express and [what] I
have an interest in. I received [got an] education. (Marcel, 31)

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66 Mari Korpela

In the above quotation, Marcel characterizes Indians as a homogeneous

uneducated bloc, unable to understand Westerners. Such a view easily results in a lack of

contacts with Indians as a consequence of which, stereotypical views prevail. In my

understanding, the Westerners’ stereotypical views on essential cultural differences

between themselves and Indians function as tools in their self-definition: they define

themselves as fundamentally different from Indians. Consequently, they need to keep

social distance from local people because closer contacts would probably question their

self-definition as fundamentally different from locals.

The New Self: India as a Turning Point

For the Western lifestyle migrants in Varanasi being in India is not merely a

question of defining the self but also a moment of a changing self. Most of my

interviewees claimed to have changed fundamentally in India.

Q: You said you have changed here a lot yourself […] What has [happened], how has India
affected you?
A: I cannot imagine my life without coming to India. It is really true. I don’t even
remember who I was before I came [...]t the change that I went through in India was so
strong, I don’t even remember what was before, it sounds like a vague dream. It happened
[to] somebody else. (Rafael, 40)

Seeing India as a turning point in one’s life is obviously a realisation that has

come afterwards. In the interviews, my questions contributed to such a discourse since I

specifically asked whether the interviewee felt s/he had changed in India. However, the

Westerners in Varanasi often talk in such terms also outside the interview context. A few

Westerners have also ended up adopting an Indian name6. Adopting a new first name

illustrates well a change of identity. Very often, the Westerners in Varanasi used the talk

about the changing self also to justify their stay in India as the change was always

understood in positive terms.

6
The Indian names that they adopt usually carry a Hindu or Buddhist spiritual meaning or a meaning
connected with nature.
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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 67

Q: How is your life different in India from your country of origin?


A: […] After India my life changed.
Q: How has India changed you?
A: …More relaxed… and more, I feel more happy, happier and relaxed. (Maya, 31)

Most of my interviewees said that India had made them more relaxed and content.

In making such comments, they implicitly, and sometimes explicitly, criticized Western

societies where people are nervous and worried.

However, being in India is not only (or necessarily) about a changing self but also

about realizing one’s true self. A commonly shared view among the Westerners in

Varanasi is that there is a core self to be realized and knowing one’s true self does not

come automatically. The ethos is that one has to learn to be one’s true self and one has to

learn to be free. All in all, the emphasis is on the self.

India is in fact a very particular place to search for oneself. Started by

theosophists and adopted by the gurus7 of the hippies, ancient meditation and yoga

techniques have been developed to meet the needs of Westerners who are searching for

themselves. In fact, India has been rather successful in capitalising on its image as a

home of spiritual wisdom (Bandyopadhyay and Morais, 2005) and such a view was

adopted also by Indian nationalists in order to create national consciousness and pride

(Edwardes, 1967, p. 39; see also Fox, 1992; Ludden, 1993; van der Veer, 1993). In

addition to a conscious search for the self, most of my interviewees claimed that one is

bound to change in India even without spiritual searching.

I think... if you are receptive to Indian culture, Indian culture will change you in some ways
definitely. It has to, it’s such a strong culture. I would say that you’re gonna have to change
if you spend some time here in India. (Marcel, 31)

7
Guru: a (spiritual) teacher or guide.
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68 Mari Korpela

A significant factor is obviously that one is forced to redefine oneself when one

encounters the ‘Indian other’. A few of my interviewees also mentioned that India offers

a possibility for a new beginning, an opportunity to create a new self as one can leave old

expectations and roles behind.

Q: Why do you not want to live in Europe?


A: […] Here you can invent yourself, you can create yourself. You come here, nobody
knows you, you can put the best of your behaviour [forward], you put the best of your
character. […] And nobody doubts what you are. You can create your own story in this
country, you are free for this. Sure if you don’t follow [act according to] your words, I mean
if your actions don’t follow your words, also very quickly you see here, you can collapse
very quickly also in India. […] Here it’s to do a lot with your, always working on yourself
and always working on your character. (Olga, 48)

Olga’s comment indicates a kind of a game with the self, yet, at the same time she

is referring to the concept of a ‘true’ self when she mentions working on one’s character.

All in all, the Westerners in Varanasi often defined a trip to India as a trip to oneself, and

although they often articulated their stay in India in terms of criticism towards the West,

it was also very much a question of finding and defining the self – both against the

‘ordinary Western other’ and the ‘Indian other’.

Self at the Centre

When defining themselves against Indians, the Western lifestyle migrants in

Varanasi define independence as a ‘Western’ characteristic and emphasize having made

an individual lifestyle choice. However, when defining themselves against ‘ordinary’

Westerners, many claim that those who have stayed in their countries of origin are

trapped in ‘prison’, that is, they are not independent but follow empty routines without

being true to themselves. Therefore, it seems above all to be a question of the Westerners

in Varanasi defining themselves as independent; both in comparison to Indian people and

to people in their countries of origin, and the Western and Indian others against which

they define themselves are understood in very homogenous, simplified, terms.

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Me, Myself and I: Western Lifestyle Migrants in Search of Themselves in Varanasi, India 69

This article has thus shown that being in India is a very individualistic project for

the Westerners in Varanasi: my interviewees talked much about finding, defining and

changing the self. The emphasis on the self is typical for our era. According to Anthony

Giddens, the self is often seen as a reflexive project for which the individual is

responsible. ‘We are, not what we are, but what we make of ourselves’ (Giddens, 1991,

p. 75). In other words, the self has become a project that needs to be developed and

reflected upon. Moreover, Giddens writes that ‘in modern conditions, we live as though

we are surrounded by mirrors from which we reflect ourselves’ (Giddens, 1991, p. 172),

and in this world of various possibilities, it is important to have a coherent, true, self that

works as a reference point (Giddens, 1991, p. 75). The situation of the Western lifestyle

migrants in Varanasi fits well Giddens’s statements: to a large extent, being in India

seems to be a question of defining the self and the Westerners, who are living in a

situation of various possibilities, reflect their true selves against both Indian and Western

others.

The transnational context of lifestyle migrants adds a new twist to Giddens’s idea

of a reflexive self. The issue of finding oneself through travelling is widely discussed in

travel research (see Bruner, 1991; Desforges, 2000; Elsrud, 2001; Harrison, 2006; Noy,

2004; Wang, 1999). Thus the Westerners in Varanasi are not distinct in this sense. Yet,

they are different from tourists and travellers in the sense that they have chosen to stay in

India repeatedly for very long periods. For example, travellers often aim to use at home

the cultural capital (often materialized as a distinctive self) that they have gained during

their travels (Desforges, 2000, p. 938). Lifestyle migrants, however, do not permanently

return ‘home’. In fact, realizing the self that the Westerners in Varanasi have found seems

to require recurring sojourns in India: many of my interviewees considered it difficult to

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70 Mari Korpela

maintain their true selves in the West when they went back. Many said that after spending

some time in the West, they have to return to India in order to be able to live as their true

selves. Nevertheless, either here or there, the self is at the centre.

Conclusion

In this article I have argued that the Western lifestyle migrants in Varanasi define

themselves as courageous, independent and active agents both against Indian and

Western others. Although they articulate their stay in India as a quest for a better life,

eventually staying in India seems to become a trip to the self and for the self. I have also

argued that the self is a reflexive project for the Westerners in Varanasi, and the

transnational conditions make their emphasis on the reflexive self particular.

I started this article with an interview quotation where the interviewee stated to

feel ‘more true’ in India. The fact that an interviewee replies by such comment when

asked why he prefers India to his country of origin indicates how central defining the self

is for the Westerners in Varanasi. To put it simply, it seems that although the Westerners

initially went to India in order to find India and a better life there, they have ended up

finding their distinctive Western selves instead. In other words, lifestyle migration to

India provides the Westerners a setting for realizing their ‘true’ – independent and

individualistic – Western selves.

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Biography of Author
Mari Korpela is an assistant professor of social anthropology in the department of
Social Research at the University of Tampere, Finland. In addition to social
anthropology, she has been teaching women's studies and qualitative research
methods. Her research interests include transnational communities,
countercultures, lifestyle migration, gender and travel as well as ethnographic
research methods. She has published articles both in Finnish and in English. She
has recently completed her PhD dissertation which is an ethnographic research on
the community of Westerners in Varanasi, India.

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social
Effects

Omar Lizárraga Morales


Department of Social Sciences
Universidad Autónoma de Sinaloa (University of Sinaloa)
Culiacán, México

Abstract
Today, in several Latin American countries, such as Colombia, Costa Rica, Brazil, and
principally Mexico, we are witnessing a migratory movement from Canada and the
United States. These migrants have the common characteristics of time and economic
resources, since most of them are retired. This international immigration has had serious
effects on the host communities in several areas:
a) Economic: because their purchasing power is higher than that of the local population.
Real estate prices have increased as well the cost of the services, principally in some
urban areas, provoking a reclassification of the urban space;
b) Socio-demographic: Within the migration process in some cases of the local women or
men through marriage;
c) Cultural: In many of the cases, the American immigrants keep their culture and
lifestyle at the retirement destinations; as a result they create cultural isolation from the
local people.
d) Environmental: because they demand spaces near to the coast and places where the
biodiversity is endangered.
In this article we analyze the migratory process of the American citizens to a
popular tourist destination located in the northwest of Mexico: Los Cabos, Baja
California Sur. The social and environmental impacts in this region are examined.

Key words: Retirement, Migration, Los Cabos, Baby Boom, Social Effects.

Introduction
International Retirement Migration (IRM) has become one of the most important
features of social and demographic change in developed countries. It is a clear indicator
of changes in migratory patterns that register new types of human mobility; this kind of
movement experienced a significant increase since the last decade of the twentieth
century. This is a migration model based on consumption, not production (Salvá, 2005).

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76 Omar Lizárraga Morales

This movement is also surprising because it does not represent the criteria of other
classical migrations: such as an economic crisis or political reasons forcing people to
leave their country of origin.
These are migrants seeking a better life, not only for economic reasons, but for
environmental reasons, tranquility, proximity to the ocean, et al. (Almada, 2006). This
type of migration is not always permanent and is often difficult to separate it from
tourism and has thus not yet received much attention from scholars.
International Retirement Migration can be observed in different regions of the
world. In the case of the European continent, the retirees from the Nordic countries move
to the Mediterranean region, highlighting destinations like Portugal, Italy, Greece,
Turkey, Hungary and Spain (King et al., 1998). In Oceania, Australia and New Zealand
also are popular among the retirees from northern Europe and East Asia (Shinozaky,
2006). In the American hemisphere, the countries of Central and South America such as
Costa Rica, Guatemala, Colombia, Brazil, Argentina, but especially Mexico are attractive
to retirees from the United States and Canada (Puga, 2001; MPI, 2006).
Today this flow is becoming more important for the government of host countries,
investors and academics because we are witnessing a mass retirement of members of the
generation called "Baby Boomers". This is the generation born after the war, between
1946 and 1964, which now accounts for two thirds of the global population of 6.5 billion
and in the U.S. 76 million of it's citizens fall into this demographic (Dailey, 2005).
Mexico historically has been a destination for North American migrants, some
places such as San Miguel de Allende and Ajijic have been popular among US citizens
since the sixties, with painters, musicians, sculptors and hippies looking for a place
distant from their home and to live on a low income.
Recently, the socio-economic and demographic profile of the American
immigrants in Mexico has changed. Now, many have better retirement benefits and
higher incomes than previous expatriates. U.S.-Mexico migration, particularly to Los
Cabos, has had important economic, social, environmental, political and cultural effects
on the host society. Most have a purchasing power far beyond that of the locals and
socio-cultural and economic differences have had a significant impact on the local
community.

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 77

For this research, we conducted a survey of expatriates in Los Cabos. We took as


a guide the population registered at the National Migration Institute (Instituto Nacional de
Migración), in order to get the “official” data of the number of US nationals residing in
the city. The number of US nationals registered in this institute is 6,123. Using this
baseline number and taking a maximum error of 5% and 85% confidence as
representative, the sample size in the survey was 201 questionnaires. The survey was
applied to addresses where we had access, but a large part of this population live in gated
communities and were thus inaccessible. We administered the surveys in public meeting
and commercial centers, churches, and via e-mail as well. The survey allowed us to
assess the socio-demographic features such as gender, age, marital status, place of origin,
work experience, health issues, income and expenses, but also the reasons why they
decided to migrate. In addition to the surveys, we also conducted some lengthier
interviews with US citizens in the region.

US immigration to Mexico and Los Cabos

The Migration Policy Institute of the United States identified the Mexican states
that receive the most elderly immigrants, these are: Jalisco, Guanajuato, Baja California,
Baja California Sur and Nuevo Leon. Followed by all other states closer to the northern
border such as Sinaloa, Durango, Zacatecas and Tamaulipas (MPI, 2006). The same
document identified ten destinations, or poles of attraction for immigrants such as
Guadalajara and Chapala, Jalisco, Leon and San Miguel de Allende, Guanajuato,
Monterrey, Nuevo Leon, Ciudad Juarez, Chihuahua, Tijuana, Mexicali, Rosarito and
Ensenada, Baja California and Los Cabos in Baja California Sur.
Based on data provided by each of the the National Migration Institute’s regional
offices, we found that there are a total of 108,052 registered Americans living in Mexico.
It must be said that this number of Americans only includes those that are registered
under the migration forms FM2 and FM3; nonimmigrant and immigrant, respectively
(see chart 1). It is important to note that the state of Baja California Sur, currently ranks
second in the country in terms of the highest rate of immigration from the United States.
We do not have the exact number of Americans that live in Mexico under the (FM1)
tourist visa, but these people can reside for up to six months of the year in Mexico. The

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78 Omar Lizárraga Morales

Migration Policy Institute quoting the US Department of State estimated that a total of
1,036,300 American citizens are living in Mexico (MPI, 2006).

Chart 1. The US Population in Mexico by State.

State Number of Americans


Aguascalientes 160
Baja California 22,137
Baja California Sur 13,905
Campeche 2,069
Chiapas 429
Chihuahua 11,605
Coahuila 2,482
Colima 1,110
Distrito Federal 5,858
Durango 156
Edo. De México 462
Guanajuato 9,992
Guerrero 1,121
Hidalgo 89
Jalisco 11,527
Michoacán 886
Morelos 500
Nayarit 2,357
Nuevo León 1,743
Oaxaca 1,791
Puebla 1,473
Querétaro 2,030
Quintana Roo 2,487
San Luis Potosí 487
Sinaloa 4,385
Sonora 3,500
Tabasco 108
Tamaulipas 572
Tlaxcala 76
Veracruz 1,816
Yucatán 590
Zacatecas 149
Total 108,052

Source: National Migration Institute (2009).

Los Cabos is the destination examined in this research and it is particularly


interesting because of the large number of US citizens who reside there and the
accelerated increase in recent years. According to the Migration Policy Institute of the
United States, there was an exorbitant increase in the American immigration to Mexico

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 79

during the years 1990-2000. For example, during this time the number of US citizens in
Los Cabos increased a 308% (MPI, 2006). This is not to suggest that immigration to
other destinations has slowed. Indeed, migration to Ajijic, Jalisco increased 581%, and
San Miguel de Allende 47.7% during this same time period (MPI, 2006). Mazatlán is
also becoming increasingly popular showing a 95% increase between the years 2004-
2006 (Lizárraga, 2006).
The so-called real estate boom in Mexico is linked to this influx. According to
Greg Redderman, who owns the real estate agency Re/Max of Cabo San Lucas, there are
homes near the mountains with prices ranging between US$300,000 and US$600,000 and
others on the beach are between US$600,000 and US$1.2 million. There are even some
more luxurious properties with price tags in the US$8-10 million range. Greg also tells us
that the housing boom in Los Cabos began around 2002 and the principal buyers are from
California (Redderman, Greg, 10/04/08).
The National Migration Institute (INM), reported in January of 2009 that 13,905
Americans lived in the state of Baja California Sur. According to the same institution
7,704 are men and 5,283 women, of whom 7,486 are renters who live on resources
brought from abroad; most do not work and are dedicated completely to rest. Also, there
are 5,501 who have permission to engage in income-generating activities. According to
this Institute, in the municipality of Los Cabos there are a total of 6,123 Americans,
accounting for 47% of the U.S. population in the state (National Institute of Migration,
2009). US citizens in the area of Los Cabos are concentrated in the towns of: Buena
Vista, Los Barriles, Todos Santos, San José del Cabo, and Cabo San Lucas, but the
majority (80%) are in the latter two.

Taking into account that the population of Los Cabos in the census of 2005 was
164,162 people, American immigrants comprise 3.72% of the total population of the
municipality. However, the number of Americans increases if we take into account those
who enter the country with a tourist visa who, as we said before, can stay up to six
months in Mexico and have the right acquire properties. This is why it is difficult to
precisely determine the number of foreign-born residents living there at any given time.

Socio-economic and demographic profile of the US citizens in Los Cabos

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80 Omar Lizárraga Morales

The survey results revealed that the vast majority (88%) first visited the Los
Cabos area as tourists. A pleasant experience is often the key motivator for them to
choose this place for retirement years later. The results also showed that these people are
mostly from California, followed by Washington State, Colorado, Oregon, and the border
states of Texas and Arizona.
As to their age, the highest proportion (45%) is between 45 and 63 years old, in
other words, they fall into the category of “baby boomers”. It must be said that these
people do not yet enjoy all the benefits of retirement, i.e. Social Security, but most can
easily live here off of their pension from former jobs, savings, or are still engaged in
some lucrative activity. The Americans captured in the survey who are over 64 years old
and eligible to receive this government benefit represents 34% of the population. And
thirdly, there is a sizable population who are under 44 years (21%). We found that this
group is predominantly medium-high to high income; business owners, salesmen,
managers or real estate agents, but also includes some teachers, doctors, military, etc.
The monthly average income is highly diverse. There is a 25% of people who
receive between US$2,400 and US$5,000 a month. A smaller percentage (5%) receives
between US$5,100 and US$6,000 but a higher percentage (20%) receives more than
US$6,000 per month. It must be said that we also captured a significant number who
receive between US$1,000 and $2,300 monthly (22%).
In Los Cabos, where the principal economic activity is tourism, the average wage
for locals is not nearly this high and a secondary migration from within Mexico is
occurring to find employment in construction and other low-skill, low-wage jobs. The
result is great wage disparity between most of the US nationals and the local people.
Most of the migrants surveyed (64%) are married. Although there are also those
who made the movement alone, arriving: divorced (18%), single (12%) or widowed
(4%). It should be noted that there are also a good number of Americans who have
married local people, mostly US men marrying local women. In fact, there are strategic
advantages to these marriages because it allows them to buy property without the expense
of the trust that must be paid by foreigners to own property in Mexico. In this case, he
may put the property in his wife's name convincing her to sign an absolute power of

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 81

attorney on the property as a form of protection, the local term for this is “prestanombre”.
Secondly, from a cultural perspective, many US men consider Mexican women to be
much more “manageable” than US women and therefore feel greater security with their
property, as well as for company and personal care (Almada, 2006).
A total of 8% of the American men surveyed are married to Mexican women,
meanwhile only 3% of the American women are married to a Mexican man. From our
perspective, these intercultural marriages, besides the physical attraction, are the result of
three factors: a) the economic security that the Mexican women finds with a US husband;
b) the added security that Americans receive on their financial investments in Mexico;
and c) The social ascension experienced by Mexican women marrying a foreigner with a
higher income and educational status.
According to the survey, 67% live in the region of Los Cabos under the FM2 or
FM3 migratory forms, 20% with a tourist visa and 11% are citizens. According to the
INM there are 5,501 people who can legally engage in money making activities, but it
should be mentioned that this number of Americans increases if we take into account
those who simply carry on illegally under their tourist status.
In general, these immigrants have a high level of education: 53% have a
university/Bachelor’s degree, 11% a Master's degree and 5% have a doctoral degree.
Only 1% of our sample does not have a university degree at all. If we compare this with
the Mexican average, it is obvious that they these US citizens are much more educated. In
the year 2000, of the 97 million Mexicans, only 3 million of the students in the country
were in the preparatory (i.e. Bachelors degree) level and only 1.6 million on the upper
(i.e. Masters or higher) level (INEGI, 2000).
When asked about their homeownership status in Los Cabos, 61% of Americans
own their home, 23% pay rent, and the remainder lives at the home of a friend (6%), or
with relatives (3%). This high percentage of home ownership has obviously economic
benefits for the real estate business.
When asked about the value of their homes, a large number of people chose not to
answer this question; however, the average value of the houses was evaluated by this
author at US$350,000 or more and relatively few who live in a house worth less than 50
thousand dollars

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82 Omar Lizárraga Morales

The majority of those in the medium-high to high social class live in gated
communities near the beach. The four areas that are most popular among U.S. citizens
are: Cabo Bello, El Pedregal, El Tezal and Las Ventanas. It is also important to mention
that some respondents were from the colonies such as the popular neighborhood
Magisterial.
When asked why they chose Los Cabos as a retirement destination, the reason
most often repeated was the climate of the locality, followed by lifestyle, the people,
economy, beaches, et al. In the case of Los Cabos, the climate is undoubtedly the main
reason why Americans choose this place as a retirement destination. Most do not have
any economic difficulties and little interest interacting with the local society. This
fieldwork also included email surveys of Americans living in the city. We drew attention
in particular to the response of Gary Morton who says: “Dear sir, I can not help you
because I do not trust on the Mexican government, just on (like) mine. I moved here just
for the weather and I want to be out of pressures. I would appreciate it if you keep it that
way" (Morton, Gary, 23/03/09).
However, a considerable percentage of respondents said they had migrated to the
region because of the local people and the lifestyle. In this regard, Marcos Sparh
(interviewed by Almada, 2006), says that he came looking for the Mexican culture that he
met with some neighbors as a child: the mariachis, food, joy of life, but especially the
family. Mr. Sparh comments with sadness that currently he no longer sees this place in
the same manner, and deplored the arrival of his countrymen, because he did not want to
live with foreigners, he wanted to live with Mexicans.
The third important reason for migrating to the place is the economy. Teresa
Sorohuet, a local woman married to an American (interviewed by Almada, 2006), said
that here, although her husband’s economic capital was enough to buy a house for more
than a million pesos, go on their honeymoon to Europe, and have recent model cars, that
this same money in the United States would just be enough to survive, so that’s why her
husband, a Vietnam veteran, decided to change his residence to Baja California Sur.
The American citizens in Los Cabos spend two thousand dollars a month in
average, money spent on taxes, recreation, medical services, consumption of all kinds,
domestic helpers, etc. This has an important economic impact on the region because they

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 83

spend more money than the average of the Mexicans inhabitants. We can identify two
kinds of American immigrants, the ones who try to improve their quality of life spending
less money than in the United States, and the ones who are looking for a better climate
and leisure at any price. In fact, there is a ten percent of Americans that spend more than
6,500 dollars a month, these are people used to a high quality of life.

Social and Environmental effects of US Immigration to Los Cabos

The US immigration constitutes 90% of total international immigration into the


region and has therefore become an important element in the social and economic life
throughout the state. The Los Cabos corridor in particular has been radically transformed
by the increasing presence of Americans (Cabral, 2006). This extends even to the
architecture of the houses which now include large fences and walls protecting their
space.
Many residents of the village have sold their land for a few thousand U.S. dollars,
which was subsequently transformed and developed dramatically increasing the value of
the property to the benefit of foreigners. The buying and selling of land has become an
important economic activity. Tulio Ortiz (in Cabral, 2007) identified nearly a hundred
real estate companies in the south of the state, of which about sixty are affiliated with
headquarters in United States. As Ortiz said, it is now difficult to know which land
belongs to Americans and which does not.
The relatively low prices in real estate and the region’s attractiveness as a whole,
are driving many Americans to buy a second home in Los Cabos and this trend is
expected to continue. This was confirmed by the Secretary of Tourism of Baja California,
Oscar Escobedo in the newspaper La Opinión: "So far the demographically dominant
group is made up of people with full mobility and without need of special care, but soon
we hope we will become the destination for many elders, including those who need help
in their daily lives" (Arenales, 2008).
This tourism-related industry development has resulted in many social problems,
migration and settlement of immigrants in fringe colonies that appear in impressive
speed. Up to three thousand people arrive in the region in just three months, people who
demand all kinds of services and immediately begin to apply for water, electricity and

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84 Omar Lizárraga Morales

schools (Cabral, 2007).

Environmental Concerns
Needless to say, this process of urban development also entails a series of
environmental impacts, that now threaten to degrade a wide range of natural, historical
and cultural resources within the community. Throughout the area, it is common to see
housing developments built on the beaches and on the dunes that has caused deterioration
in the quality of peoples’ lives as it has damaged the landscape and ecology of the area.
When observing the natural environment as a whole, it becomes obvious that it can not
support the massive tourist model that has been implemented over the past twenty-five
years, given that its ecological equilibrium is extremely fragile (López, et al, 2006).
To reinforce this idea, it is sufficient to say that together with the massive arrival
of visitors to the region, the aridity of the environment has necessitated the
overexploitation of the aquifers which, in turn, has led to the penetration of sea water
inland and the salinization of the water supply in the region. To this can be added the
extreme levels of urbanization in the corridor that have caused deforestation of the
xerophytic vegetation which, in turn, has led to a greater propensity for erosion of the
soils (López, et al, 2006).
The most serious environmental problem posed by the presence of so many
Americans in Los Cabos has to do with the occupation of land, in particular the beaches.
Virtually the entire peninsula is included within the so-called forbidden zone established
by Article 27 of the Constitution which prohibits foreigners from acquiring property
within 50 kilometers of the coast and one hundred miles of the border, but here, it is
virtually ignored. There are two ways to do so legally. Since 1973, foreigners can acquire
a trust (Fideicomiso) that does not require any permission from Foreign Affairs and is
now virtually renewable indefinitely (Bringas, 1989). Since 1989, one can also acquire
these lands by registering a company with an address in Mexico (Cabral, 2007). The
trust is a more common way to acquire property. They were created to bring in tourists
and tourist development and ideally, local people would be beneficiaries.
Nora Bringas (1993) notes that reality has shown that not only did local people
not benefit but that the foreigners have taken large swaths of land and created no

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 85

alternatives for survival, hence many of the locals have had to work in domestic services
or construction. As a result, there are increasing inequalities in lifestyle and income,
where foreigners occupy the best coastal land with increasing privacy and exclusivity and
living the American way of life. This problem is evident in the Tijuana-Ensenada
corridor. Here, the ejidos have been transformed for tourist development and many of the
villagers have been displaced from their lands and have been incorporated as the working
force in the resorts (Bringas, 1993).
In Los Cabos, there is another problem with the real estate has emerged. According to
Maria Luisa Cabral (2006), among the few potential benefits from the sale of these
properties are the taxes, but many have now learned how to reduce or eliminate paying
them thanks to advice from their real estate brokers.
According to Antonio Diaz (in Guido, 2007), on the Pacific coast, in the San Jose
del Cabo to Cabo San Lucas corridor there are obvious changes in the landscape, one of
them because of the construction of golf courses and the sale of large tracts of land to
build housing developments, which has altered the road facing the beach so that local
people no longer have access to those areas.
Throughout the municipality of Los Cabos there is an inordinate abuse of the
existing sand dunes, caused largely by the constant use of trailers that damaging the local
flora and fauna. For Ana Salazar (2009), the desert areas of northwest Mexico are places
of biodiversity threatened by global capitalist greed.
In the area facing the Pacific Ocean, from Los Cabos to the village of Todos
Santos, as well as the Gulf of California side, there are mega projects with hotels, golf
courses and residential areas being developed on the dunes. Other areas such as Los
Cerritos located south of Todos Santos, a former farming community, has been sold to
Americans and having the same fate (Guido, 2007).
Currently, the trend of development throughout the region is not the construction
of major hotels, but the construction and sale of residential properties such as villas,
condos, and houses. This transformation is radically changing the concept of place from a
popular tourist site to a social space where the purchase of a property requires all of the
services needed for permanent residents.
Just as the entire peninsula of Baja California is experiencing major changes as a

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86 Omar Lizárraga Morales

result of rapid real estate development, the rest of the state is awaiting the same fate, as
there is a strong trend to sell large tracts of former ejido lands for tourism projects, many
of which are in isolated spaces, as large investors prefer sites with small populations, with
new opportunities at very low cost.
For example, in the complex named Loreto Bay and Punta Chivato, many
irregularities were found by the inspectors from the Federal Environment Protection
Council (Procuraduria Federal de Proteccion al Ambiente, PROFEPA), these developers
built on beaches without any permission. Also north of Loreto, on the beach “El Mangle”,
500 acres were sold for residential development (Guido, 2007).
In general, land tenure is one of the major factors of change in the region as ejidos
have acquired full rights to sell tracts of hundreds or thousands of acres. Buyers then
speculate and sometimes sell them several hundred percentage points higher than their
purchase price, generating huge profits, mostly to foreigners.
In the region, there are two extreme positions: those who dream that the
government will make the decision to expel the foreigners and return the villages to their
ancestors, and those entrepreneurs who want to become part of the tourism development
with large chains of hotels and casinos (Almada, 2006).

Isolation and social polarization


A phenomenon that we see in Los Cabos is real estate/residential development on
the outskirts of urban centers and in desert areas. These new colonies of varying size are
usually beyond the urban centers and in environmentally sensitive areas. Generally, these
developments are initiated by a single developer who buys the land and transforms it
through a series of legal activities. This transformation enables an investor to garner the
necessary infrastructure to develop the land and then they can sell or develop the land
themselves. These developments are not classified as urban or semi-urban, but as Andreas
Huber (2005) calls them ex-urban areas, because although they are close to the villages,
they are not really part of them. As Huber (2005) claims: "These places are often without
all the facilities, lack local references and are defined internally. That is, those are
colonized spaces that may appear in the same way in different places" (p. 101).
As we can see, the real estate business has become an important economic activity

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 87

for the region, considering that most Americans who live here, do so in their own house.
A similar trend occurred in the Tijuana-Ensenada corridor in the eighties: "The jobs
generated are insufficient, the beneficiaries in this type of immigration have been the
realtors, as they have split up the coast and sale the land and homes” (Bringas, 1989).
This economic polarization between Americans and local society has brought a
hierarchy of social classes. Rossana Almada (2006:220) mentions that the presence of
this community has increased the workforce, but as Americans pay with dollars, the
Mexicans no longer want to work for other Mexicans. This conflict produced
transformations in the region and has also displaced the local elite, as American
immigrants not only are currently occupying their houses, but also their place in the
social hierarchy.
A related social problem that occurs is due to the supply of labor for the
construction for tourism developments, as nearly 400 daily workers are joining the local
population, who require housing and this in turn, basic municipal services, so it is
completely overrun by a planning in a short or medium term (Guido, 2007).
Because of this widespread development, residential tourism (and International
Retirement Migration) has an impact on the shape of cities. The model adopted in Playas
de Rosarito, Ensenada, Loreto and Los Cabos, is clearly a defensive urbanism. The
condominiums are gated for security and the coastal areas are privatized, the public space
is being restricted as is access to the beaches (Enriquez, 2008). The physical impact of
defensive urbanism (Enriquez, 2008) represented by real estate and hotel developments is
significant. Adversely it affects the coastal environment, entails a precarious and
disarticulated urbanization of settlements, privatizes the public space and fragments the
land and provokes a social segregation.
The American community is a numerical minority that seeks to subjugate the local
majority, because the Americans have enough economic resources to participate in
negotiations, thus accentuating the asymmetry in social and political relations. In this
way, they objectify their inequality by appropriating and transforming physical space, so
that it reflects their social position in space. The Americans have also prompted some
strategies to keep their distance from the nationals, since they have been placed in the
center of the social space due to their economic power. They put fences around their

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88 Omar Lizárraga Morales

homes higher than those typically used by local people and many refuse to speak Spanish
(Almada, 2006). As we mentioned before, because US citizens distrust the local society
they are often reluctant to have relationships with locals. This distrust is reflected in the
construction that isolates them from the rest of the general society. Larger walls, bigger
fences, security cameras and guards, announcements and aggressive signs on their houses
are now commonplace throughout the area. Also the high density of real estate
development on the coast has led to the closure or restricted access to the beaches for the
general population; i.e. the privatization of formerly public spaces.
According to Almada (2006), even the young people who work in a business
managed by Americans have an attitude of superiority over the rest of their countrymen
since with American bosses they receive better wages. We don’t know the exact number
of Mexican people who work for American capital business, but undoubtedly it is
considerable taking into account that there are 5,501 American citizens that have
permission to engage in economic activities in Los Cabos. However, even though there
may be economic arrangements, it seems many Americans have little interest in
assimilating with the local society.
In the region there is also an unfair distribution of basic resources such as water.
At the beginning of the new millennium, it is important to recognize that one of the most
abused resources is water, vital and indispensable element for economic and social
development, and of course, for human existence itself. But the waste of this resource
characterizes the current consumer society (Ramirez, 2006). Being a desert area, water in
Baja California Sur is even more precious. As noted earlier, hotels and residential areas
are the most privileged recipients of this resource meanwhile inhabitants of the lower-
income colonies often have limited access and supply. While the locals are forced to store
water in containers for domestic use, in residential neighborhoods they have pools and
large gardens with a disproportionate use of water, due to their economic power they
enjoy.
There are five golf courses in Los Cabos totaling 678 hectares and that number is
likely to grow rapidly as more expatriates arrive. This figure is quoted with pride and
triumph by the government as well as transnational investors; however, the magnitude of
the problem related to the lack of water has still not been valued in its entirety. A

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 89

significant portion of the water used to irrigate these fields is either sewage water or
recycled by the tourist complexes themselves, but it is known that this does not cover the
total demand and, therefore, water is extracted from the San José basin. In the tourist
corridor of Los Cabos there are 40 hotel developments and only six treat their sewage
water. Four use the water afterwards and nineteen know neither the quantity supplied nor
the volume of sewage created. This gives an idea of how water, on the one hand, is being
extracted without control or normative conditions, and on the other, how its use is not
being optimized as it should be. This is even more alarming when it is realized that 15
percent of the population of the corridor does not have potable water in their homes
(López et al. 2006).
Precariousness and social exclusion are common as well as shortages of clean
water, electricity and drainage. Colonies form a habitat defined by material and social
deprivation where people have difficulty with the weather extremes of both the summer
and winter. The poor materials and galvanized sheets used in construction of houses
complicate the situation. Los Cabos, as in Puerto Peñasco (Enríquez, 2008) is divided in
two, on one side there is the beach side complete with a high level of services and
infrastructure, complete with exclusive and on the other side is an overcrowded
community characterized by streets of sand, lack of drainage and high social polarization.
For Salazar (2009), in Los Cabos where the needs are quite demanding and
depend mostly from abroad, poses a political problem and affects the national sovereignty
over the ownership of the Mexican coasts. It also creates an imaginary boundary that
discriminates against domestic tourists, residents and service providers. This population
growth combined with poverty and social inequality, uneven patterns of access to and use
of natural resources, as well as patterns of production and current consumption, all to
impose a heavy burden and irreversible damage to the social and natural environment in
the fragile ecosystem of Los Cabos. It can deplete the natural resources and threaten the
sustainability of development (Ramirez, 2006). According to Mike Davis, these centers in
Baja California had been "silently invaded by the baby boomers”, is just the latest sign of
a new Manifest Destiny (Davis, 2006).

Conclusions

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90 Omar Lizárraga Morales

From this research we can conclude that International Retirement Migration is


itself a kind of movement that is caused by the imbalance on the hierarchical structure of
the global economic system. In the American case, the weakening of the welfare state
combined with the current high cost of housing and health insurance are some of the
main reasons to move to the south side of the border, where the added value of their
pensions and the moderate cost of living prevailing in the region has led them to settle
permanently. A good number of them can not access these services at their places of
origin in United States, while in Mexico they have the benefits of good quality at low
prices while enjoying a warm climate.
The number of retired US citizens in Los Cabos will continue to grow rapidly in
coming years due to: a) the mass retirement of baby boomers, many of whom will seek
alternative places of residence outside of the country; b) the geographical, economic,
social and cultural attraction in the northwest of Mexico compared to other localities; c)
an increasing number of Americans have prior contacts with compatriots, so the social
networks become more important in the migratory process; d) Since these immigrants
generally have a good image of the region, they do not see the transformation of the area
and are satisfied with their situation.
The American immigration to Los Cabos, has led to many social and
environmental problems but local governments need to consider how this flow can be
converted into a factor for regional development. We refer not only for the economic
income generated but the high level of human capital that is also present. In this research
we adopted a critical stance about the immigration of American retirees in Mexico, this
does not mean we are against it, but we do feel that this migration should be controlled
and above all, organized. Only with a comprehensive planning will this migration be a
lever for local development in the main destinations for retirees in Mexico.
A feature of the baby boomers in retirement age is that they do not want to be
removed from society, some of them start new careers, businesses, some learn a new
discipline, have a part-time job, and/or engage in philanthropic activities. They have a
high sense of social organization. The baby boomers are the most highly educated
population in the entire history of humankind. A good number of those who immigrate to
Los Cabos have a high educational profile: teachers, engineers, doctors, administrators,

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The US citizens Retirement Migration to Los Cabos, Mexico. Profile and Social Effects 91

business people, men and women with great experience and intellectual knowledge which
can still be used. In some cases they do it even voluntarily with the sole purpose of being
useful to their host society.
In the region of Los Cabos, models of residence can be built for immigrants trying
to make a fair division of territory, while enabling them to live in relationship with people
of all ages. This has been implemented in France, United Kingdom, Sweden or Italy.

Bibliography

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Todos Santos, BCS. México. CIESAS y UABCS.

Arenales, Yolanda (2008). “Jubilación en Baja” en La Opinión, 27 de abril.

Bringas, Nora (1989). “Quienes se llevan la mayor tajada en los fideicomisos para
extranjeros. El Caso del corredor Tijuana-Ensenada” en Cultura Norte, Vol. 2 No.10.

__________. (1993). “Usos del suelo y configuración turística del corredos Tijuana-
Ensenada” en Urbanización y servicios, Volumen VII, editado por el COLEF y
UACJ. Pp 69-95.

Cabral, María Luisa (2006). Migración y Desarrollo, el contexto nacional y estudios de


caso en Los Cabos y La Paz Baja California Sur. (Coord). Universidad Autónoma
de Baja California Sur. La Paz, BCS.

Cabral, María Luisa (2007). “La migración norteamericana en Baja California Sur”
Reporte de investigación presentado y aprobado para su publicación por el Consejo
Técnico de Ciencias Sociales y Humanidades de la Universidad Autónoma de Baja
California Sur. La Paz., BCS.

Dailey, Nancy (2005) When Baby Boom women retire. PRAEGER, Connecticut.

Davis, Mike (2006). “Los invasores de fronteras” en La Jornada, 23 de septiembre.

Enríquez, Jesús (2008). “Segregación y fragmentación en las nuevas ciudades para el


turismo. Caso Puerto Peñasco, Sonora, México” en Topofilia, Revista de
Arquitectura, Urbanismo y Ciencias Sociales. Volumen I, Número 1.

Guido, Sandra (2007). “¿Desarrollo turístico regional? Monitoreo de los desarrollos


turísticos e inmobiliarios costeros del noroeste de México 2005-2006.
ALCOSTA, Alianza para la sustentabilidad del Noroeste Costero, A.C.

Huber, Andreas (2005). “Retirados suizos en la Costa Blanca” Rodríguez Vicente et al

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(Eds.). La migración de europeos retirados en España. Consejo Superior de


Investigaciones Científicas. Madrid.

INEGI (2000). Censo general de población y vivienda, 2000. Instituto Nacional de


Geografía, Estadística e Informática.

López, Alvaro et al. (2006). “Segregation of tourist space in Los Cabos, Mexico” en
Tourism Geographies, Vol. 8 num 4.

Migration Policy Institute (2006). America´s Emigrants. US retirement migration to


Mexico and Panama. Migration Policy Institute.

Ramirez, Jesus (2006). El agua en Mazatlán: Una visión transdisciplinaria. Gobierno del
Estado de Sinaloa y Universidad Autónoma de Sinaloa. México.

Salazar, Ana (2009. “La gran barata¡¡ El plan de SECTUR en las costas del Pacífico
mexicano para la población babyboomer: consecuencias socio-culturales y
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Salvá, Peré (2005). “La inmigración de europeos retirados en las islas baleares” en
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Madrid.

Biography of Author
Omar Lizárraga Morales is a PhD student at the Department of Social Sciences
at the University of Sinaloa (Universidad Autónoma de Sinaloa) in Culiacán,
México. His research interests include the International Retirement Migration,
Tourism, Transnationalism and its socio-economic effects. His thesis explores the
social networks and the transnational practices of the American immigrants in
Sinaloa and Baja California Sur, Mexico. He is author of two books: “Nací de
aquí muy lejos. Actores locales y turistas en el Centro Histórico de Mazatlán” and
“La importancia del turismo internacional de retiro”. He is also member of the
Internacional network of young researchers on migration and development
(Colectivo internacional de jóvenes investigadores en migración).

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93

Appreciation
On behalf of the management of Recreation and Society in Africa, Asia and Latin America
(RASAALA) and the contributing authors, I like to extend my appreciation to the people
whose names are listed below for the time and efforts that they contributed to reviewing the
submissions to this special issue of RASAALA. The successful outing of the current issue is in
large part due to your good works. Many thanks.

Dr. Barbara McNicol Dr. James Craine


Department of Earth Sciences Department of Geography
Mount Royal College California State University

Dr. Ron Davidson Dr. Michael Janoschka


Department of Geography Centre of Human and Social Sciences
California State University Spanish National Research Council

Assistant Professor Jeff Boggs Alex Schafran


Department of Geography Department of City & Regional Planning
Brock University University of California

Associate Professor Yifei Sun Abby Foulds


Department of Geography Department of Geography
California State University University of Kentucky

Dr. Steve Graves Associate Professor David Truly


Department of Geography Department of Geography
California State University Central Connecticut State University

Neil Carr,
Editor in chief, RASAALA
Submission Guidelines to RASAALA

1. RASAALA accepts only original works. terms.

2. Submissions can be emailed as MsWord or 7. RASAALA does not archive materials that
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journal editor, submissions will be subjected to
3. Authors should also include a brief bio of double blind peer reviews to enhance quality and
about 100 words for the "Notes on Contributors" ensure merit. The decision of the editor is final.
section.
9. We hope to have the review process
4. All submissions must come with short but completed and review report sent to authors
excellent abstracts. within two months

5. Authors should make clear in their submission 10. Other than providing copies or summaries of
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(b) they have read, understood and publish a submission.
accepted the conditions under which RASAALA
publishes submissions by authors as laid out in 11. The APA referencing format is style of
the Submission Guidelines and Right-to-Copy preference for RASAALA .
paragraphs of the journal,
(c) all authors of a multi-author work 12. RASAALA accepts submissions in English
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Editor in chief

Carr, Neil
Department of Tourism, The University of Otago, P.O. Box 56, Dunedin, New Zealand.
Email: neil.carr@otago.ac.nz
Call for papers
Recreation and Society in Africa, Asia, and Latin America is a new peer-review online journal
that encourages the publication of original research into the relationships that exist between
recreation (incorporating sport, leisure, events, and tourism) and communities and organisations
at the local, national, and international levels within the context of Africa, Asia, and Latin
America. Papers are invited from academics, graduate students, and those actively researching in
relevant fields. Fields of research for potential manuscripts include, but are not limited to:

• Environmental impacts of recreation on individuals, local communities, and national and


regional societies within Africa, Asia, and Latin America
• Recreation needs and provision within Africa, Asia, and Latin America
• Recreation and personal, social, and cultural identity within Africa, Asia, and Latin
America
• Recreation as a tool of cultural integration in Africa, Asia, and Latin America
• Recreation, education, and the poverty cycle in Africa, Asia, and Latin America
• The use of sport and recreation in international development
• Benefits and drawbacks of the provision of recreational opportunities for international
visitors from outside Africa, Asia, and/or Latin America
• Recreation and African, Asian, and Latin American migrants - the role of recreation in
assimilation/acculturation and personal identity

Being an on-line journal publications do not need to be restricted to word-based documents.


Rather, wholly or partially visual and/or audio based material may also be submitted to the
journal for review and potential publication. Furthermore, given the nature of the focus of the
journal and the potentially diverse nature of the authorship of the journal papers written in
French, Italian, Spanish, Portuguese, German, Arabic, Swahili, Igbo, Hausa and Yoruba, in
addition to English, will be accepted provided they are accompanied by informative summaries,
reference lists, and abstracts in either English or French. This innovative decision will only
succeed if sufficient suitable multilingual reviews can be obtained so it is possible that authors
who submit work in a language other than English may subsequently be asked to re-submit an
English version. The journal will publish issues twice-yearly.

Submission Guidelines
Check the journal homepage http://www.spreadcorp.org/rasaala/index.html for detailed
submission guidelines,
Written articles should be no longer than 25 pages (double spaced) long.
Audio and/or visual submissions should run for no longer than 20 minutes

Journal Editor
Dr Neil Carr
Tourism Department
University of Otago
New Zealand
neil.carr@otago.ac.nz

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