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STANDARD TEST METHODS

Kate Spade & Company

Updated: September, 2015

TABLE OF CONTENTS
FABRICS AND APPAREL STANDARD TEST METHODS ........................ 3
Standard Test Method # 1 - KS&C Torque Test Method ....................................................... 3
Standard Test Method # 2 - Wicking Test Methods ............................................................... 5
Standard Test Method # 3 - Combined Accelerated Colorfastness to Laundering Test ......... 6
Standard Test Method # 4 High Risk Color Blocked Styles (Knit and Woven) ................. 8
Standard Test Method # 5 Safety Assessment of Functional Drawstrings ........................ 11
Standard Test Method # 6 Bar Band Elongation ............................................................... 16

ACCESSORIES STANDARD TEST METHODS ...................................... 18


Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test ............................................. 18
Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink) ........................................................ 20
Standard Test Method # 109 - Finish Adhesion ................................................................... 22
Standard Test Method # 113 - PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing ............................................. 23
Standard Test Method # 114 - Cold Crack Resistance of PU/PVC ...................................... 24
Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of PU/PVC/Fabric ............................ 25
Standard Test Method # 117 - Blocking of PU/PVC............................................................ 27
Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength ...................................................................... 28
Standard Test Method # 119 - Environmental Cycling ........................................................ 30
Standard Test Method # 123 - Accelerated Aging (High Humidity).................................... 31
Standard Test Method # 124 - Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven) ............................................ 32
Standard Test Method # 125 - Impact Resistance ................................................................ 33
Standard Test Method # 126 - Tensile Test of Hardware ..................................................... 34
Standard Test Method # 137 - Nitric Acid Test/Lacquer Coating on Brass and Nickel Plated
Hardware ............................................................................................................................... 36
Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test ........................................................... 37
Standard Test Method # 158 - Manual Function and Cycling of Hardware ......................... 39
Standard Test Method # 159 - Resistant to Alcohol ............................................................. 40
Standard Test Method # 160 Tensile Strength of Card Slot .............................................. 41

TRIMS STANDARD TEST METHODS ..................................................... 43


Standard Test Method # 1001 Button Impact Resistance .................................................. 43
Standard Test Method # 1002 Quality, Appearance & Durability of Plastic Self-Adhesive
Size Stickers .......................................................................................................................... 45
Standard Test Method # 1003 - Accelerated Aging (High Humidity) for metal trims
(Copper/ Zinc Alloy) used on Leather and Wool ................................................................. 47

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FABRICS AND APPAREL STANDARD TEST METHODS


Introduction

This section describes the standard test methods used for


apparel.

Standard Test Method # 1 KS&C Torque Test Method


Purpose:

To determine the degree of fabric distortion and seam torque for single
knits made of single yarns.

Description: Fabrics that need to be tested include, all single knit fabrics knitted from
single yarns. Procedure is provided below to determine before wash
fabric distortion and seam torque.
Procedure for Garment:
To determine the percent of seam torque after washing the garment, divide the
length of seam displacement at hem or bottom (line B of below sketch) by
the length of side seam (measured from where seam twisting started to hem
or bottom of the garment (line A of below sketch)) and multiply by 100.

For example, if seam displacement at hem is 1 and length of twisting seam is


20,
the seam torque will be 5% (1/20 X 100).

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Procedure for Fabric:


Follow the steps below to perform the torque test for single knits:
1. Prepare a 22 x 22 (56 x 56 cm) sample same as for AATCC 135
(dimensional changes in home laundering). Make sure that samples are not
distorted. Try to cut the sample from the center of the fabric.
2. For before wash torque test, perform the following:
Draw a line along a knitted course in a fabric; this is line a
Draw a line at right angles to line a, this is line b
The intersection of these two lines is point A
Mark a point B on line b that is 10 inches from point A
Draw a line through point A following a wale (needle line), this is line c
Mark a point C on line c that is 10 inches from point A in the same general
direction as point B
The distance between points B and C measured in inches x 10 gives the
percentage of distortion or torque in the fabric.
3. For after wash torque test, wash a fabric sample according to provided care
instruction (if care instruction cannot be provided, method AATCC 135 IIIA
(machine wash warm, delicate cycle, tumble dry low) is used) one wash only.
Repeat procedure in step 2.
Note: Line a and line c can be the same as before wash test. Line b (right
angle to course line) has to be redrawn. In addition, points B and C have to
be marked again after washing to be 10-inches from point A.
4 - Perform the seam torque test: The difference between before wash and
after wash is equivalent to the seam torque as would be experienced after
washing of a garment.

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Standard Test Method # 2 - Wicking Test Methods


Purpose:

To determine the wicking performance of fabric, the two tests listed


below should be carried out and results reported.

1. Absorbency Test, AATCC Test Method # 79


Requirement: 1.0 second or less.
2. Wicking Test, Ciba Test Method
Procedure: Follow below steps:
Apparatus - Glass Beaker (250 ml capacity), ruler, indelible pen,
Stopwatch, Specimen holder, distilled water
Test must be conducted under standard conditions:
1 - Specimen Preparation:
Cut a total of four strips from each submitted sample as followsCut two strips 15 cm x 2.5 cm with the long dimension being in the
warp (wale) direction.
Cut two strips 15 cm x 2.5 cm with long dimension being in the weft
(course) direction.
Mark each strip at 0.5 cm from one end of the long edge.
2 - Testing Steps:
Clamp the specimen at unmarked ends so that they hang vertically.
Fill the beaker (container) with 100 ml of distilled water.
Lower the strips into the beaker to the 0.5 cm mark and start timing.
Remove specimen when 10 minutes is up.
Measure and record water travel length of the specimen.
Average the results of the two tests in each direction.
Report the results for warp and weft direction.
Stop test if there is no water travel in five minutes.
Requirements:

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5 cm or more after 10 minutes, Knit.

Standard Test Method # 3 - Combined Accelerated


Colorfastness to Laundering Test
Purpose:

To provide a rapid method to determine colorfastness to laundering and


if bleach care label can be used.

Description: The following procedure is provided for combining the colorfastness to


washing and non-chlorine bleach test.
Procedure: Follow below steps to perform the colorfastness accelerated test:
1. Prepare a sample 2 x 6 (5 x 15 cm). Make sure that the sample contains a
representative area of a full repeat, if multicolored fabric. Otherwise, repeat test
on different areas.
2. Execute test AATCC 61 2A, Colorfastness to Laundering.
3. Evaluate for shade and stain.
4. If the sample passes the minimum requirements, cut sample in half. Retain
one of the two pieces as control and use the second one for the Non Chlorine
Bleach test.
5. 2.5% of Clorox 2 solution is prepared by dissolving 2.5 grams of Clorox 2
in 100 ml. of warm water (40 C).
6. Pour 100 ml. of Clorox 2 solution into a stainless steel beaker.
7. Preheat the solution in water bath to 60 C (140 F). For washable wool/silk,
use 40 C (105 F).
8. Soak the test sample in the solution for one minute under agitation.
9. Remove the specimen and pour the used testing solution into a test tube for
assessing the color staining of the solution.
10. Rinse the test sample in cold running tap water for about 2 minutes with
occasional stirring and hand squeezing.
11. Dry the test sample at a temperature not exceeding 60 C (140 F).
12. Compare the sample from the Non-Chlorine Bleach test with the washed
only sample. There should not be any noticeable difference in shade. The NonChlorine Bleach tested sample must pass minimum colorfastness of washable
fabrics and garments when compared to an unwashed sample:
Color Change: 4.0 minimum
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Contrast stripes or trimmings and color blocked garments: Color Change and
Staining 4.5 or better.
13. Compare the used testing solution to an unused solution. There should not
be any appreciable staining of the used solution.
If the sample fails the Non-Chlorine Bleach test but passes the wash test, then the
fabric must be labeled Do Not Bleach.

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Standard Test Method # 4 High Risk Color Blocked Styles


(Knit and Woven)
Purpose:

To ensure high risk color-blocked garments with contrast color have the
best possible colorfastness performances.

Description: Color blocking is a design concept that combines at least two different
colors in the same garment. These colors are generally contrasting
colors with one being of heavy shade and the other a light shade.
There should be no color transfer or cross staining from the dark to the
light shade, particularly onto white or off white shades.
Thus, high risk color blocked products require more stringent
colorfastness ratings for the individual colors than normal specifications
of Kate Spade & Company and must be discussed with the fabric
supplier before a Purchase Order is written for the program. The
supplier must choose dyes (and processing steps) that meet the
stringent requirements. The dyes will generally be more expensive
than normal dye cost.
Apparatus:
Color Standard Depths: Matt B.S.1006 and I.S.O. 105 (see below pictures):

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Color Shade Classification:


1) Color Shade Classification based on Color Depth index
Color Shade Classification Color Depth
Light
< or = 1/12
Medium
in range of >1/3 and <1/6
Dark
> or = 1/1
Guideline for high risk color blocked styles classification:
High risk color-blocked products include: color blocked garments; garments with
contrast trims, patchworks, and appliqu; contrast-striped fabrics (eg. rugby); prints in
contrast color; and other items with contrast multi-color components (see below
examples of High risk color-blocked products) except meeting one of below three
conditions:
1) All found different color shades are under the same color hue based on the Color
Standard Depths A R, see below Figure 1 as example;
Figure 1:

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2) The different color shades with all over print design pattern AND the shortest
distance (either length or width in irregular shape) is less than 0.3 cm, see below
products as example:

Examples of high risk color-blocked products:

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Standard Test Method # 5 Safety Assessment of


Functional Drawstrings
Purpose: To standardize the measurement of the length of Functional Drawstring
used on KS&C childrens garment.

Definitions:
Functional Drawstring - A cord, chain, ribbon, string or tape of any textile or nontextile material with or without embellishment, such as a toggle, pom-pom, feather, or
bead which passes through a channel, loop(s) or eyelet(s) or similar, to adjust the
size of the opening, or part of the garment or to fasten the garment itself.
Hip Width Measurement - The hip width is to be measured 5 below the top edge
using the 3-points of measurements as shown below:

Apparatus - Steel ruler

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Test Procedures
Test must be conducted under standard conditions:
1.1. Allowance of Functional Drawstring
According to the KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol
Functional Drawstring Performance Requirements, visual assessments are
required to identify the allowance of Drawstring and related construction
requirements (Tacked at midpoint, no knots, etc) prior to the Drawstring
Measurement.
If the Functional Drawstring is Not Allowed to be used and the related
constructive requirements are not met, report the failure directly.
If the presence of Functional Drawstring is allowed, the length of Drawstring is
measured following below step 1.2.
1.2. Functional Drawstring Measurement
Measure the Functional Drawstring from where the strings extend out of the
garment when it is expanded to its fullest width.
To ensure the garment is expanded to its fullest width, follow below steps:
A.

For the non-stretchable garment and Drawstring channel without


elastic band and/or elasticity
i. The garment is held by lab technician in a direction perpendicular to
the Drawstring channel; the lab technician stretches the Drawstring
channel and ensures it is expended to its fullest width:

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ii. The garment is laid flat on the bench and ensure no crinkles were
found along the Drawstring channel:

iii. The length is measured from the point where the drawstring exits
the channel to the tip of string.

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B.

For the stretchable garments and Drawstring channel with elastic


band and/or elasticity
i. The garment is laid flat on the bench. Measure the hip width following Hip
Width measurement and mark down the hip width:

ii. The first lab technician stretches the Drawstring channel (waistband) to the
hip width (for woven) or hip width +1 (for knit); During the stretching,
the exposed portion of the drawstring will retreat back into the Drawstring
Channel by hand:

Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring to
KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.

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iii. While the garment is held under the tension at the specified width, a second
lab technician, with a steel ruler, measures the length of the drawstrings
exposed portion. The length is measured from the point where the
drawstring exits the channel to the tip of string:

Remark: this photo is used for showing the measurement method only. Referring to
KS&C Childrens Apparel Safety Testing Protocol for the requirement is a must.

1.3. Report
Report the findings including the type of Drawstring, position of Drawstring found on
the garment, length of drawstring in inches and conclusion.

Requirements: refer to KS&C Children Product Safety Testing Protocol


(https://portal.katespadeconnect.com/documents/10113/1288849/Child+Product+Safety)

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Standard Test Method # 6 Bar Band Elongation


Purpose:

To determine the force (lbs) exerted on the bottom band of a bra at the
minimum and maximum band settings; measured at 5 below the labeled
size.

Procedure: Follow below steps:


Apparatus Instron CRE tensile tester or equivalent with a low range load cell
(approx. 9kg or 20lb)
Samples - 3 Bras
Test must be conducted under standard conditions:
1. Machine Setting:
- Chart Speed: 10 inches/minute
- Cross Head Speed: 20 inches/minute
- Delta shaped hooks: 3 inch
2. Set the Gauge length based on the bra size as follows:
Gauge Length
Size (inches)
(circumference in inches*)
32
20
34
22
36
24
38
26
40
28
*Circumference in inches = measured around the upper and the lower hooks with
flexible measuring tape
3. Cycling:
- Close the hook & eye fastening; If the bra has a multiple hook & eye
fastening, adjust the bra to the largest size adjustment.
-

Place the center front of the bra (i.e. between the cups) on the upper hook
and zero out the weight of the bra on the Instron. Place the back of the bra
band (at point of closure if a back closure bra) over the lower hook.

Elongate the bra to a distance 5 less than the labeled bra size (cross head
travel distance of 3.5 from the established Gauge length) and return to zero
extension.

Repeat a second cycle on the bra and record the load in pounds. Repeat
this test on the two remaining bras and average the test results.

Adjust the same 3 bras to the smallest size adjustment. Repeat the
process in point 3, and average the test results.

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4. If the bra being tested is not adjustable, follow the same test procedure as outlined
in point 3 and note this when reporting test results.
Report: Report load in pounds to extend the bottom band of a bra to 5 below the
labeled bra size (at the smallest and largest setting if the bra has a multiple hook &
eye fastening) by the outlined test method. Provide the results to a single load value
results if the bra band is not adjustable.
Remarks: Load value in pounds of the bottom band of a bra at an elongation 5 less
than the labeled bra size (cross head travel distance of 3.5 from the established
gauge length).

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ACCESSORIES STANDARD TEST METHODS


Introduction

This section describes the standard test methods used for


accessories.

Standard Test Method # 102 - Cracking Resistance/Flex Test


Purpose and
Scope

To evaluate flexibility and adhesion of a finish on leather and PVC


materials to be used for handbags, small leather goods and
belts.

Apparatus

Bally Flexometer: this machine consists of a stationary clamp


(lower) and a rotating clamp (upper) that move at 100 cycles
per minute.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #102:
Step
1
2

4
5

Evaluation

Action
Cut a sample measuring 1 x 2
Mount sample into the upper clamp on the Bally Flexometer
with one end measuring 1 folded in half so that the front
sides are together.
Mount sample into the lower clamp on the Bally Flexometer
with the other end measuring 1 folded in half so that the
back sides are together.
Begin flexing the sample to the standard number of flexes
(20,000 flexes for leather and 50,000 flexes for PVC).
Check the state of the sample every hour and stop prior to
completion if there is a change in the appearance of the
sample.

A. Evaluate the sample after the standard number of flexes or at the


point of failure under a 4 X illuminated magnifying glass.
1 Have cracks appeared?
2. Does the finish powder or dull in the fold?
3. Is the adherence of the finish impaired by the flexing motion?
4. Is there stress whitening?

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Specification

A. Leather must flex 20,000 cycles with no change.


B. PVC must flex 50,000 cycles with no change.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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Standard Test Method # 104 - Cleanability (Food/Ink)


Purpose and
Scope

A. To evaluate the effect of various potential staining agents and


determine the effect of the cleaning solution on the sample.

Apparatus

A.
B.
C.
D.

Beaker
Brush
Blue or black ink ball point pen
Cleaning Agent
Tide and distilled water for fabrics and straw,
Meltonian Leather Lotion for PVC
Guardsmen Leather Cleaner and Leather Conditioner
(more information refer to http://guardsman.com/guardsman/index.jsp)

E. Food Staining Solution (by volume):


1 coffee
1 cola
1 catsup
1/4 sugar
1/4 100% alcohol
1/8 motor oil
F. Paper Towels
G. Soft Cleaning Brush for fabric.
Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #104:
Step
1
2
3

Step
1
2
3
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Action
A. For Food Staining Solution:
Each test specimen shall have the staining solution applied
with a brush to a 1 X 1 area minimum.
Allow the solution to dry.
Spot clean the surface with the appropriate cleaning agent
mentioned above:
a. When cleaning fabric or straw apply the Tide and distilled
water mixture to the stain and brush gently with a soft
brush. Remove excess cleaning solution with a damp
paper towel and pat dry.
b. When cleaning leather or PVC apply appropriate
cleaning agent with a paper towel or soft cloth and rub.
Action
B. For Ink (ball point blue/black pen):
Draw a 3 line on the surface of the specimen
Allow the ink mark to set for 10 minutes.
Repeat steps 3a/b above.
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Evaluation

A. Evaluate any resulting stain on the sample due to either the food
staining solution, ink or cleaning agent.
Rate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe

Specification

A. Food Stain: No Stain


B. Ink Stain: Slight Stain

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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Standard Test Method # 109 - Finish Adhesion


Purpose and
Scope

To check the adhesion of the finish.

Apparatus

A. 3M Scotch Magic Tape 3/4 wide #8l0

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #109:
Step
1

3
4

Action
Draw 10 X 10 square with size of 1mm x 1mm by cutter at
surface.

With the tip of the finger, press and rub 1 strip of the tape
onto the surface of the sample making sure one end of the
tape is not attached to sample.
Hold the free end of the tape at a 90 degree angle to the
surface and detach it with one quick pulling motion
Repeat step 2 & 3 , and total three times on same surface

Evaluation

Record the approximate percentage of color loss from the


surface.

Specification

A. No adhesion loss

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98, 1/14 cf

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Standard Test Method # 113 - PU/PVC Adhesion to Backing


Purpose and
Scope

A. To evaluate the adhesion between PU/PVC and backing


material.

Apparatus

A. Tensile Tester with speed of 12 inches per minute


B. Clamps with jaws
C. 100/1000 lb. load cell

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #113:
Step
1
2
3
4
5
6

Action
Cut three samples measuring 2 x 5 .
Separate, by hand, one inch of the backing material from the
PU/PVC.
Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the backing material
in the lower jaw.
Clamp the separated 1 inch portion of the PU/PVC in the
upper jaw.
Test sample, pulling the backing and PU/PVC apart from
each other and print out results.
Repeat steps 2 5 two more times to get an average load
mean of three samples.

Evaluation

A. Record the average load mean result for the three samples.

Specification

A. 3 pounds minimum.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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23

Standard Test Method # 114 - Cold Crack Resistance of


PU/PVC
Purpose and
Scope

A. To determine if PVC/PU will crack under cold conditions.

Apparatus

A. Cold Box set at minus 23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius and able to fit the
Masland Impact Tester inside it
B. Masland Impact Tester
C. Stapler

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #114:
Step
1
2
3
4
5
6

Action
Cut sample to measure 2 x 6.
Double the sample over lengthwise with the finished side
out.
Staple the outside ends.
Condition the specimen for two hours in the cold box minus
23 +/- 5 degrees Celsius.
While working inside the cold box, place the looped
(unstapled) side on the Masland Impact Tester Anvil.
Raise arm of impact tester to a vertical position and allow it
to fall free on the sample loop.

Evaluation

A. Evaluate using the following ratings:


No Crack
Cracked
Cracked in two pieces.

Specification

A. No Crack

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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Standard Test Method # 116 - Tongue Tear Strength of


PU/PVC/Fabric
Purpose and
Scope

To measure the force required to continue or propagate a tear


that was previously cut in the specimen.

Apparatus

A. Tensile Testing Machine on load mean setting and tongue tear


mode
B. Clamps with jaws
C. 1,000 lb. load cell
D. Tongue Tear Die (see diagram attached)

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #116:
Step
1
2

3
4

Evaluation

A.
B.

Action
Using tongue die cut three samples in the warp direction and
cut three samples in the fill direction of the material.
Place the 3 x 8 specimen in the clamps so that the slit is
centered in the jaw and the ends of the tongues are
completely held in separate clamps (see attachment).
Test the sample and print out results
Repeat steps 2 3 for all samples to get an average load
mean of three warp and three fill directions.

Record the average load mean of the warp and flit directions for
each sample.
Record the warp and fill averages separately.

Specification

A. For handbag: 5 pounds minimum


B. For small leather goods: 3 pounds minimum
C. For lining: 3 pounds minimum

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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Diagram 1:
Sample

Diagram 2:
Tongue Tearing
Test

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Standard Test Method # 117 - Blocking of PU/PVC


Purpose and
Scope

To determine the tendency for PU/PVC to adhere to it when


stored face-to-face and face-to-back, in a stack, under conditions
of high heat and pressure.

Apparatus

A.
B.
C.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #117:

Dry Convection Oven


Glass Plates
8 Pound Weight

Step
1
2
3

4
5

Action
Cut four 1 x 2 samples.
Place two samples face-to-face, and two samples face-toback between 2 glass plates.
Place the plates in the oven at 160 degrees Fahrenheit.
Place an 8 pound weight on top of the plates to compress
the samples
Leave in oven for six hours.
When samples are cool to the touch remove them from the
glass plates.

Evaluation

A. Evaluate the degree of blocking as follows:


No Blocking: No Change
Slight Blocking: PU/PVC must be peeled to separate but no
change to piece goods.
Blocking: PU/PVC can not be separated

Specification

A. No Blocking

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

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27

Standard Test Method # 118 - Seam Strength


Purpose and
Scope

To determine the amount of force in pounds that must be applied


to PU/PVC or fabric seams in order to tear the seams.

Apparatus

A. Tensile Testing Machine containing grip faces measuring 3 x 1.


Machine should be in load mean setting.
B. Sewing Machine
C. Sewing Thread (BT-69 E) minimum. See copy of label below from
thread spool.

Diagram 3:
Thread Spool
Label

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #118:
Step
1
2

4
5
6

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Action
Cut three PU/PVC swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the warp
and three swatches measuring 3 x 6 in the fill directions.
Prepare three sets of seams by placing two samples from
the warp direction with the front sides together, place two
samples from the fill direction with front sides together, place
one sample from the warp and one sample from the fill
direction with front sides together.
Sew seams airing the 6 side of the samples with a 5/8
seam allowance and stitch density of 8 9 stitches per inch
(spi).
Set the distance between the grip faces at the start of the
test at 2.
Center the seam line between the grip faces then close the
grips.
Run test for each of the three sets of seams.

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Evaluation

A. Evaluate the following data:


1. The load mean for each seam. Identify seams as warp to
warp, fill to fill, and warp to fill.
2. The average load mean of all specimens.
3 Record if seam failure is caused by PU/PVC failure, sewing
thread failure or PU/PVC slippage.

Specification

A. 45 pounds for PVC and fabric


B. 30 pounds for lining

Release/
Revision

Initial release 10/90;


Revised 04/94, 10/97 cf, 10/98 cf

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Standard Test Method # 119 - Environmental Cycling


Purpose and
Scope

To determine the effect of heat, high humidity, and cold on a


finished product or any of the products components.

Apparatus

A.

Wet Environmental Oven set at 100% +/- 5% relative humidity


and 135 degrees Fahrenheit
Dry Convection Oven set at 160 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5
degrees Fahrenheit
Cold Box set at 10 degrees Fahrenheit +/- 5 degrees

B.
C.
Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #119:
Step
1
2
3
4
5
6

Evaluation

A.
B.

Action
Place sample in wet environmental oven for 22 hours.
Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum
Place sample in dry oven for 22 hours.
Place sample at room temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum.
Place sample in cold box for 22 hours.
Place sample at mom temperature (75 degrees F. +/- 5
degrees) for 2 hours minimum.

Evaluate sample after each individual test cycle (wet oven, dry
oven, cold box) and a 2 hour recovery period at room
temperature.
Record any corrosion, blistering, warpage and/or any other
change in characteristics.

Specification

A. No Change

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/98 cf


Revision: N/A

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Standard Test Method # 123 - Accelerated Aging (High


Humidity)
Purpose and
Scope

A. To test hardware or together with Leather substrate, for its


resistance to a hot and humid environment.

Apparatus

Wet Environmental Oven set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and 98%


relative humidity.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #123:
Step
1
2

Evaluation

Action
Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is
intended to be used with.
Check hardware and substrate after 24 and 48 hours of
exposure.

Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the


wet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,
blistering and/or any other change in characteristics as failure.
Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change

Specification

A.
B.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98, 07/10 cf

Kate Spade & Company

No Change
Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be
interpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This depends
on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise, and past
field performance.

31

Standard Test Method # 124 - Accelerated Aging (Dry Oven)


Purpose and
Scope

A. To test hardware for its resistance to a dry environment.

Apparatus

Gravity Convection oven with a temperature set at 135 degrees


Fahrenheit.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #124:
Step
1
2

Evaluation

Action
Place sample into oven in contact with substrate it is
intended to be used with.
Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.

Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the


wet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,
blistering and/or any other change in characteristics as failure.
Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change

Specification

A.
B.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

Kate Spade & Company

No Change
Slight Change is considered a borderline situation and can be
interpreted as either pass, fail or waive by KS&C. This depends
on the location of the failure, nature of merchandise and past field
experience.

32

Standard Test Method # 125 - Impact Resistance


Purpose and
Scope

A. To determine the impact resistance of an adhesive or finish.

Apparatus

A.
B.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #125:

Impact platform (5/8 thick steel plate)


Tape measure or other means to measure drop height of 36

Step
1
2

Action
Drop sample 36 inches onto a steel platform.
Repeat step 1 until the point of failure or until the sample
has been dropped 10 times whichever is first.

Evaluation

A. Compare tested sample to a control.


B. Record any changes to adhesion or finish.
C. Record the number of drops.

Specification

A. 10 drops with no change

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revised 10/98 cf

Kate Spade & Company

33

Standard Test Method # 126 - Tensile Test of Hardware


Purpose and
Scope

A. To determine the tensile strength of hardware.

Apparatus

A.

Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system (aps)


setting and tensile mode
Clamps with jaws
1,000 lb. load cell

B.
C.
Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #126:
Step
1

2
3

Action
Clamp into jaws actual piece of hardware to be tested, if
possible, or loop cord or straps through hardware (such as a
dog leash, omega ring, etc), and close cord or straps in
upper and lower jaws.
Test sample and print out results
Repeat steps 1 2 two more times to get an average peak
load of three samples.

Evaluation

A. Record the average peak load result for the three samples.

Specification

A. Large dog leashes, large handle holders, large rings are 70


pounds minimum
B. Small dog leashes, small handle holders, small rings are 35
pounds minimum
C. Key Ring/Chain/ Lanyard Nylon Rope is 25 pounds minimum
D. Chainbelts are 30 pounds minimum
E. Zipper hooks are 30 pounds minimum

Kate Spade & Company

34

Large Size

Large Size

Small Size
Release/
Revision

Large Size

Large Size

Small Size

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 10/98 cf

Kate Spade & Company

35

Standard Test Method # 137 - Nitric Acid Test/Lacquer


Coating on Brass and Nickel Plated Hardware
Purpose and
Scope

A spot test used to determine the presence of a lacquer coating


on brass and nickel plated hardware.

Apparatus

A.
B.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #137:

50% by volume nitric acid


Eye dropper

Step
1
2
3
4

Action
Place one drop of 50% nitric acid solution on the sample.
Allow the drop of solution to remain on the sample for 10
minutes.
Remove the drop with a paper towel.
Visually inspect the area of contact.

Evaluation

Visually compare the area of contact to the remainder of the surface


finish. Note any change in the visual appearance. This indicates
the absence of a lacquer finish.

Specification

A. No Change - which indicates presence of a lacquer finish.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 11/98 cf


Revision: N/A

Kate Spade & Company

36

Standard Test Method # 154 - Handle Integrity Test


Purpose and
Scope

A. To determine the strength and durability of handbag handles


and straps and associated components.

Apparatus

A. Handle Hold Tester, which has a four inch drop and cycles at
18 +/- 5 cycles/minute. Speed can be adjusted within this
range for minimum handbag swinging.
B. Weights (lead shot bags)

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #154:
Step
1

Action
Place appropriate weight load inside handbag, as evenly as
possible and set number of cycles on handle hold tester.
Guidelines are as follows:
Shoulder Strap Handbags
Small/Medium 10 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000
cycles
Large
15 lb. load inside handbag for 5,000
cycles
Bale Handle Handbags
Small/Medium 10 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500
cycles on each handle separately and
2,500 cycles both handles together
Large
15 lb. Load inside handbag for 2,500
cycles on each handle separately and
2,500 cycles both handles together

2
3
4

Evaluation

Attach the loaded sample to the hook on the handle hold


tester.
Start machine.
Cycle the loaded handbag until the test is complete or until
failure, whichever occurs first.

A. Record the amount of weight loaded into the handbag.


B. Record the number of cycles completed and whether there was a
failure at this point or not. If there was a failure describe where the
failure occurred (ex- seams, piece goods, hardware, etc.)

Kate Spade & Company

37

Specification

A. Shoulder Strap Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change to


handbag.
B. Bale Handle Handbags: 5,000 cycles with no change to handbag.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/90


Revision: 04/94, 12/98 cf

Kate Spade & Company

38

Standard Test Method # 158 - Manual Function and Cycling


of Hardware
Purpose and
Scope

A. To determine the durability and function of hardware with a


dynamic function that could diminish over time.
B. The performance of the hardware and perception of quality
will greatly depend on the compatibility of the mating parts
and understanding of the end use application
C. Typical components for manual testing
Dog Clips/Turn Locks/Pad locks/Push locks/Flip locks/
Hinges/ Buckles Etc.

Apparatus

A. Mechanical none specified


B. Manual function of hardware

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #158:
Step
Action
1
Only production parts that have a smooth and consistent
function should be cycled. Hand made samples not
representing production should not be cycled.
2
Typical function of hardware are locking and unlocking of
locks, sliding dog clips, rotating hinges, buckle mechanism
etc.
3
The basic operation of moving parts (i.e. dog clip: Open
Close) should be repeated 5.000 times.

Evaluation

A. The evaluation of the hardware function prior to the cycling should


be recorded. During cycling, any observation of loose or difficult
function should be noted.
B. Record the nature of any failures that occurs prior to completion of
5.000 cycles, note the number of cycles at which the failure
occurred.

Specification

A. Requirement: parts should have good, smooth function throughout


the entire cycling process. The function should only change
slightly (loosening or tightening) due to wear caused by the
cycling.

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: N/A


Revision: N/A

Kate Spade & Company

39

Standard Test Method # 159 - Resistant to Alcohol


Purpose and
Scope

A. To evaluate the Alcohol resistance of leather

Apparatus

A
B.
C.
D.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #159:

Dropper
Distill Water
75% Alcohol
White Cloth

Step
1
2
3

Action
Use dropper and place 5 drop of testing solution at one spot area

Leave it for certain time


Use white cloth with wetting of distill water (wet pick up: 95~
100%) to rub gently 5 times (back and forth - 2 direction
counts as 1 time)

Evaluation

Evaluate any resulting stain on the sample


Rate stain as: Slight/Moderate/Severe

Specification

No Stain

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 10/13

Kate Spade & Company

40

Standard Test Method # 160 Tensile Strength of Card Slot


Purpose and
Scope

A. To evaluate the performance of card slot of small leather good


and wallet

Apparatus

A.

Tensile Testing Machine on analysis presentation system


(aps) setting and tensile mode
Clamps with jaws
1,000 lb. load cell

B.
C.
Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test


Method #160:
Step
1

Action
Clamp into jaws actual piece of small leather good or wallet
to be tested, set 30 pounds as requirement

Start Tensile Testing Machine to apply an increasing load at


speed of 12 inches per minute or 305 mm per minute,
pulling in opposite direction until 30 pounds is reached or
failure occurs.

Kate Spade & Company

41

3
Evaluation

A.
B.

Repeat steps 1-2 two more times at all card slot if specimen
is applicable.
After reaching minimal tensile strength requirement, evaluate the
tested specimen for any failure of load bearing.
If failure occurs before reaching minimal requirement, record
peak load force reading at point of failure and exact location &
nature of the failure (thread, material). Evaluate the tested
specimen for any other failures of the load bearing

Specification

No change when 30 pounds

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 2/15

Kate Spade & Company

42

TRIMS STANDARD TEST METHODS


Introduction

This section describes the standard test methods used for


trims.

Standard Test Method # 1001 Button Impact Resistance


Purpose and
Scope

To evaluate the durability and integrity of the button after being


subjected to an impact force.

Apparatus

A. 3/4" steel ball weighing 1.0 ounce.


B. A 20-inch long, hollow metal pipe with 1.0 inch inside
diameter. This pipe has equally spaced slots along its
length. These slots are used to insert a small steel plate,
which keeps the ball from falling from the designated
height before test. The lowest slot is 1.0" from the bottom
of the pipe and each successive slot is cut 1.0" higher
than the previous slot.
C. Steel base where the button is put.

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete


Standard Test Method #1001:
Step
1

Kate Spade & Company

Action
A minimum of 10 buttons from each lot which are
free of defects, grease, cracks, etc. are selected. No
conditioning of the button is required.
The pipe must be mounted to a stand so that the
bottom of the pipe is 1.5" above the steel base.
Place the button sample on the base with face
upward so that the center of the steel ball is aligned
with the center of the button.
Insert the small steel plate through the pre-cut slot in
the pipe at a designated height (4.0") so that the total
free fall height equals 5.5 inches.
Drop the ball into the top opening of the pipe and
allow the ball to rest on the inserted steel plate.
Retract the steel plate from the pipe so that the steel
ball free falls onto the button.
Repeat 3 through 5 for all buttons.

43

Evaluation

Determine the number of damaged buttons observed from


step 6 and report this number along with the total number of
buttons tested, and report that the test was performed with 5.5
inch-ounce impact.
If the exact impact energy is to be known that the buttons can
survive without failure, repeat the entire test from a lower (or
higher) impact height.
The impact energy (inch-ounces) = height of free fall (inches)
x weight of ball (ounces).
Example:

Height = 5.5 in.


Weight = 1.0 oz.
Impact Energy = 5.5 in.-oz.

Specification

#10 minimum

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 12/08

Kate Spade & Company

44

Standard Test Method # 1002 Quality, Appearance &


Durability of Plastic Self-Adhesive Size Stickers
Purpose and
Scope

This test protocol provides the overall procedures to determine


the general qualities of the plastic size stickers being used on
garments and packaging materials.

Apparatus

A. FTIR spectrophotometer
B. Analytical heating oven
C. Xenon-arc lamp fading apparatus (Fade-O-Meter or
Weather-O-Meter)

Procedure

Comply with the following procedure to complete


Standard Test Method #1002:
Step
1

Action
Twenty-five (25) individual round stickers or twelve
(12) long tape stickers (minimum of 12 long stickers
per color)
As the color effects of the stickers are directly related
to the actual finish and dyestuff used, the actual
fabrics or garments which are to be used should be
submitted.
Attach the stickers onto the fabrics (or onto the
packaging material which the garments are wrapped
in, if applicable) under a constant pressure of 10 lbs.
rolling pressure.

Repeat step 3 on each of the different available


fabrics.

Effects of Heat
Heat the oven until it is stabilized at a
temperature of 1202F.
Place the prepared samples in the oven for 300
hours.

Kate Spade & Company

45

Effects of Light
 Set the Fade-O-Meter or Weather-O-Meter
operating conditions.
 After the test apparatus calibration is verified,
place the prepared specimens in the rack of
the machine.

Evaluation

Shut off the test machine after 100 AFU of


exposure is reached and remove the specimens
Adhesive Analysis
Using the Fourier Transform Infrared (FTIR)
analyzer, determine the type of the adhesive
based on its IR spectrum.

A. Record any peeling and/or edge curling.


B. Record any defective appearance, including distortion,
wrinkling etc.
C. Observe and record the presence of any residual adhesive
on the fabric.
D. Assess and record the presence of any discoloration of the
fabric due to the contact with the stickers.

Specification

Round Stickers: #25 minimum


Long Stickers: #12 minimum

Release/
Revision

Initial Release: 12/08

Kate Spade & Company

46

Standard Test Method # 1003 - Accelerated Aging (High


Humidity) for metal trims (Copper/ Zinc Alloy) used on
Leather and Wool
Purpose and
Scope

A. To test Juicy Couture apparel metal trims (Copper/ Zinc Alloy) for
its resistance to Leather and wool materials in a hot and humid
environment.

Apparatus

Procedure

a. Wet Environmental Oven set at 135 degrees Fahrenheit and


98% relative humidity.
b. 100% non-dyed wool
Comply with the following procedure to complete Standard Test
Method #1003.
Step
1
1
2

Evaluation

Action
Wrap a sample with a piece of 100% non-dyed wool.
Place the wrapped sample into oven at 135 degrees
Fahrenheit and 98% relative humidity
Check hardware after 24 and 48 hours of exposure.

Compare tested sample to a control after 24 and 48 hours in the


wet oven. Record any corrosion, rusting, lacquer burning,
blistering and/or any other change in characteristics.
Rate any change as: No Change/Slight Change/Severe Change

Specification

A.

Kate Spade & Company

No Change

47