léa teuscher

www.leateuscher.com
La Tribune de Genève
La Tribune de Genève
The Independent
Food & Travel magazine
city breaks
48 RIGA
HOURS
Léa Teuscher visits the elegant Baltic city which has emerged from centuries of
turbulence with its architectural heritage and cultural identity largely intact
Why go? Riga is the largest city of the Baltic states and capital of
Latvia, a country which has been coveted – and occupied – by all its
powerful neighbours, from Poles to Swedes, Germans and
Russians. It finally gained independence from the Soviet Union in
1991. The city, with its ice-free harbour at the mouth of the Daugava
river, was a member of the medieval Hanseatic League, which
controlled commerce on the Baltic and North Sea. Ships brought
wine from the west and left full of honey, furs and timber. Today, with
its medieval pastel buildings and splendid Art Nouveau façades, the
city surprises with striking architecture on every street corner. But the
bustling World Heritage city is also well known for the parks, gardens,
rivers and canals which make up more than a third of the centre.
Travelling time Riga is a two-hour ten-minute flight from London.
What to do Put on some comfortable shoes and walk the cobbled
streets of the Old Town. Most of the tall medieval buildings used to
be merchants’ warehouses, and you can still see the weathered
wooden doors at street level and pulleys at the top. Head for the
Baroque St Peter’s Tower and take the lift for views over the city to
the river, once a thriving trading hub. Down at ground level, go south
to the Town Hall Square, where the flamboyant Gothic House of
Blackheads (00 371 704 4300) sits next to the Museum of
Occupations (00 371 721 2715; occupationmuseum.lv). A visit to
the latter is essential to understand Latvia’s tumultuous 20th-century
history and struggle for independence. Cross the city canal to reach
the New Town in the east, where you’ll find splendid Art Nouveau
façades (the most striking ones clustered around Elizabeth and
Alberta Streets), a beautiful Orthodox church and the exclusive
boutiques of Berga Bazar. An organic market is held here every
second Saturday of the month. Stop at Emila Gustava Sokolade (00
371 728 3959) for some black bread or strawberry-flavoured truffles.
Don’t miss the colourful Central Market in central Riga, housed in five
huge Zeppelin hangars, for local produce such as the famed rye
bread, forest berries and delicious honey. There are plenty of fresh
Travel information
Temperature ranges from 9°-21°C in June. Currency is the lat
(£1=1LVL). Riga is two hours ahead of British Summer Time.
Getting there
airBaltic (airbaltic.com) flies from London Gatwick to Riga from
£131 return, including taxes.
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) flies from London Stansted
to Riga from £40.40 return, including taxes.
Resources
Riga Tourist Board (00 371 703 7900; rigatourism.com) has all
the information you need for activities in and around the city.
100-101 cities 4/12/06 11:29 Page 100
100 FOOD & TRAVEL
city breaks
48 COPENHAGEN
HOURS
With its unusual blend of quaint and cutting edge, Copenhagen has been named the
most exciting city in Scandinavia. Léa Teuscher went to see if it lives up to its billing
Why go? Copenhagen is right in the eye of a stylish storm. Not only
are designer shops and delis opening all over the city, but the Danish
capital has also been named the most exciting city in Scandinavia by
the Michelin bible. Despite some strikingly modern architecture, this
trader's port has managed to keep its enchanting castles, rainbow-
coloured façades, wonderful fountains and pebbled streets intact.
Travelling time A one hour 50 minutes’ flight from London.
What to do Climb the circular pathway of the Round Tower (00 45
3373 0373; rundetaarn.dk) first thing on a clear morning to admire
the city's roofscape. You might even spot the elegant Øresund
bridge to Sweden in the distance. Head to the private art collection
of the Ny Carlsberg Gliptoteke (00 45 3341 8441; glyptoteket.dk)
and a coffee in the beautiful conservatory, or explore the country's
prolific design history at the Danish Museum of Art and Design (00
45 3318 5660; kunstindustrimuseet.dk). Marmokirken, the city's
wonderful marble church, is just next door. Not far away, the
charming Rosenborg castle hides at the end of a manicured park.
The enchanting harbourside of Nyhavn, where Hans Christian
Andersen used to live, deserves a visit before a short ice-skating
session on the majestic 17th-century Kongens Nytorv square. The
Tivoli Gardens look wonderful with their multicoloured lights and are
an essential stop for funfair addicts. Forget about the unremarkable
Little Mermaid. Instead, take the boat to Christiana and its colourful
hippyish free state, or shop for some original and rather eccentric
presents at the Danish Design Centre (00 45 3369 3369; ddc.dk).
Where to stay Awake in your own four-poster bed in Hotel
Guldsmeden (00 45 3325 0405; hotelguldsmeden.dk). The rooms
are light and beautifully decorated with Indonesian teak furniture and
oriental rugs. The breakfast is delicious. You'll be charmed by the
oldie-worldie feel of Hotel Kong Arthur (00 45 3311 1212;
kongarthur.dk), a family-run 19th-century mansion filled to bursting
with antiques. Get comfortable at Hotel Alexandra (00 45 3374
4444; hotel-alexandra.dk), which will gently introduce you to the
Travel information
The average temperature in January is 4ºC. Currency is the Danish
krone (DKK1=10p). Copenhagen is one hour ahead of GMT.
Getting there
Scandinavian Airlines SAS (0870 60 727 727; flysas.com) has
50 weekly flights leaving London Heathrow or City for Copenhagen.
Return fares start at £85.
Easyjet (0905 8210905; easyjet.com) flies from London Stansted to
Copenhagen from £45 return, including taxes.
Resources
Visit Copenhagen (020 7259 5959; visitcopenhagen.com) is the
100 FOOD & TRAVEL
city breaks
48 SAN SEBASTIAN
HOURS
Léa Teuscher rediscovers San Sebastián, a charming and elegant Basque city on the
Bay of Biscay that was once a playground of Europe’s rich and famous
Why go? It’s the European Rio de Janeiro. San Sebastián (or
Donostia as it is known in Basque) boasts three beautiful beaches, a
turtle-shaped island and an enchanting bay; its green hills even
come complete with a statue of the Christ. The elegant seaside
resort opens on the blue Cantabrian waters, its delicate honey-
coloured buildings and white floral streetlights a reminder of the belle-
époque promenades. Made rich from the Venezuelan chocolate
trade, and famous as a royal holiday destination, it is now a relaxed
gourmet heaven. Every September, the city dumps its surfboards
and rolls out a glamorous blue carpet for its acclaimed Film Festival.
Travelling time San Sebastián is a two-hour flight from London.
What to do You’ll find bars and restaurants aplenty in the Old Town,
but the ornate Basilica and San Telmo museum (00 34 943 481580;
donostiakultura.com) are also worth a stop. Spot the white masts
signalling the famous men-only gastronomic clubs, and stop on
Constitution Square to admire the yellow façades and numbered
balconies left from the bullfighting days. Climb on Monte Urgull to
admire the sea views and walk back through the small harbour with
its colourful fishing boats. A small farmers’ market is held next to La
Bretxa centre, where you’ll also find a huge food hall – a good place
to stock up on Idiazábal cheese. Turn left to the Urumea River to
admire the modern Kursaal Centre and the surfers on Zurriola beach,
or stroll through the shopping streets around the cathedral. You’ll find
wonderful Art Nouveau buildings on Prim Street in the romantic old
quarter. Then it’s straight along La Concha promenade, cheerful with
its tamarisk trees, sandy beach and white ornate railings. Pass the
Tudor-style Miramar Palace and its lovely gardens, and hop on the
red wooden funicular to Monte Igueldo, with panoramic views and a
charmingly old-fashioned fun fair. Back on beach level, head to the
amazing Wind Comb, a striking modern steel sculpture by Eduardo
Chillida, set on the rocky coast and lashed by huge Atlantic waves.
Be sure to visit the green and peaceful Chillida-Leku Museum (00 34
943 336006; museochillidaleku.com), where you’ll find more
Travel information
The average temperature in July is 22°C. Currency is the euro.
San Sebastián is one hour ahead of British Summer Time.
Getting there
Iberia (0870 609 0500; iberia.com) flies from London Heathrow to
San Sebastián via Madrid from £147 return, including taxes.
Easyjet (0871 244 2366; easyjet.com) flies from London Stansted
to nearby Bilbao from £66 return, including taxes. Bilbao is a 50-
minute drive from San Sebastián, and there are regular coaches.
Resources
Spanish Tourist Office (0845 940 0180; spain.info/uk) has a
useful 24-hour information and brochure request line.
104 FOOD & TRAVEL
city break
48 SOFIA
HOURS
Léa Teuscher discovers the Bulgarian capital and enjoys the mix of cultural influences
apparent in every aspect of the city – from stunning architecture to delicious food
Why go? For the relaxed atmosphere, buzzing café culture and
intriguing mix of Russian, Turkish and Greek influences. Sofia’s
boulevards are lined with linden trees, Art Nouveau buildings and
rows of trendy cafes; its cobbled streets come with indecipherable
Cyrillic road signs and pot-holed pavements. The highest capital in
Europe with ski slopes on its doorstep, Sofia is also at the centre of a
booming film industry that draws in a hip and artistic crowd.
What to do Start your visit at Alexander Nevski church, Sofia’s golden
landmark. Inspired by Byzantine churches, its gleaming domes hide
an atmospheric interior with beautiful faded frescoes, the dark space lit
only by tiny windows and flickering candles. In the crypt, there is a huge
collection of medieval paintings depicting the Madonna and various
Saints. Stroll through the stalls selling icons and Soviet memorabilia
to find the Russian church and pretty city gardens. The National Art
Gallery (00 359 2980 3325) in the former Royal Palace is worth a
visit, with its beautiful portraits and an attic filled with sculptures. The
small ethnographic collection in the east wing is charming too. Admire
some Paleolithic sculptures, ancient treasures and Roman artefacts at
the wonderful Archaeology Museum (00 359 2988 2406), then stop
at the Art Café next door for a coffee amidst Thracian tombstones.
Behind the imposing communist buildings and yellow brick roads
of the Largo area, you’ll notice the tiny Rotunda St George, the oldest
church in town. Cross the boulevard using one of the subways in
order to view the Roman remnants. Then look up for the statue of
Sofia, take in the Banya Bashi Mosque and sample some water from
the fountains in front of the stunning mineral baths. Head north to the
lively Women’s Market, south to the shops of the Vitosha boulevards,
or east to the maze of quaint residential streets. Watch the checker
players compete by the fountains in front of the striking National Theatre
or spend an afternoon at the City Art Gallery (00 359 2987 2181) for
a contemporary fix.
Where to stay To wake up with a view of the Alexender Nevski
Church’s golden domes, stay at the Radisson SAS Sofia (00 359
2933 4335; radissonsas.com). This elegant hotel stands opposite
Travel information
The average temperature in April is 10°C. Currency is the Bulgarian
Lev (£1= 2.6lev). Sofia is two hours ahead of GMT and a three-hour
and 20-minute flight from London.
Getting there
Easyjet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) has one daily direct flight
from London Gatwick to Sofia.
British Airways (0870 850 9 850; britishairways.com) has one
daily direct flight from London Heathrow to Sofia.
Resources
Tourist Information Centre (00 359 2933 5845; bulgariatravel.org).
You’ll find maps, brochures and information on day trips here.
104 FOOD & TRAVEL
flowers too. If you have time, join the music-loving Latvian crowd for
a night at the Opera (00 371 707 3777; opera.lv).
Where to stay Located in a trendy street in the Old Town, the
Boutique Hotel Ainavas (00 371 781 4316; ainavas.lv) is a small but
perfectly formed hideaway. Rooms are designed as a homage to
Latvia’s beautiful countryside. Meals are served in the cosy lounge
with an open fire or in the cellar with exposed brick walls. On the
other side of the Old Town, the Grand Palace Hotel (00 371 704
4000; schlossle-hotels.com) is probably the most luxurious hotel in
Latvia. With its classic furniture and striking gold colour scheme, it’s
a truly lavish affair. Hotel Bergs (00 371 777 0900; hotelbergs.lv) is
chic and classy, with a great restaurant and light, bright designer
rooms opening on to a quiet courtyard in the Berga Bazar.
Where to eat and drink Vermanitis on Elizabeth Street (00 371
728 6289) is a hugely popular self-service restaurant, the place to
sample Latvian specialities such as beetroot soup and small piragi
pasties. For lunch with views over the 17 churches of the Old Town,
head to Gutenbergs (00 371 781 4090; gutenbergs.lv). Its fantastic
roof terrace often plays host to Latvian musicians. Celebrities like to
be seen at Vincents (00 371 733 2634; vincents.lv), where British-
Latvian chef Martin Ritins, a Slow Food supporter, dishes up a
fabulous sturgeon escalope with caviar. Livonija (00 371 722 7824)
near Livu Square is known for serving the best local venison and
smoked eel in a lovely cellar dining room. Head to the B-bar (00 371
722 8842; bbars.lv) for a taste of Riga’s Black Balsam, a thick, black
liqueur made with linden blossoms and 13 other special ingredients.
The Skyline Bar at the top of Hotel Latvija (00 371 777 2222;
revalhotels.com) in the city centre is great for sipping cocktails while
enjoying panoramic views over the city and river.
Time running out? Relax on a bench near the Freedom
Monument, the perfect place to people-watch and eat ice-cream.
Trip tip Latvians love music, so keep an ear open for the numerous
open-air concerts taking place in Riga’s parks, or visit rdkp.lv.
Further reading
Riga: In Your Pocket Guide includes useful up-to-date listings
and can be downloaded for free from inyourpocket.com.
Riga: The Bradt City Guide (Bradt, £6.95) contains essential
information in a small format, easy to carry around.
Photography Léa Teuscher
Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania (Lonely Planet, £14.99) has good
background information and detailed maps and listings.
Did you know...
Summer solstice is a big event in Riga. Latvians celebrate with
bonfires, folk songs and dances. They make cheese, brew beer
and pick fresh herbs, which they also use as decorations.
100-101 cities
Danish sense of 'hygge', or 'cosiness'. More an exhibition space than
a hotel, Hotel Fox (00 45 3313 3000; hotelfox.dk) has let designers
and illustrators loose in its 61 rooms – with extraordinary results.
Where to eat and drink Meyer's Deli (00 45 3325 4595;
meyersdel.dk) is great for breakfast or brunch, which comes as a
one-plate selection of breads, meats and cheese, with lashings of
strong black coffee. Another popular deli – perfect for buying some
pastries for elevenses – is Emmerys (00 45 3964 7760;
emmerys.dk). Vaernedamsvej street in Vesterbro is a gourmet haven,
peppered with foodie stops like the tiny Granola café (Vaernedamsvej
4) or the French brasserie Les Trois Cochons (cofoco.dk; 00 45
3331 7055). Try the traditional smørrebrød (open sandwich) and
schnapps at Ida Davidsen (00 45 3391 3655; idadavidsen.dk). This
institution offers an enormous variety of sandwich toppings – from
beef tartare to lumpfish roe – on its two-meter long menu. Café à
Porta (00 45 3311 0305; cafeaporta.dk), with great Viennese décor,
is also a good place to sample the northern traditions of smoked and
pickled food. Noma (00 45 3283 3710; noma.dk) or The Paul (00 45
3375 0775; thepaul.dk) are both Michelin-star stops, but the city's
new rising star is young chef Mads Refslund. His MR restaurant (00
45 3391 0949; mr-restaurant.dk) offers delicately assembled
seasonal produce. Make sure to stop for a hot chocolate and cake
at La Glace (00 45 3314 4646; laglace.dk). For evening drinks, head
for The Laundromat Café (00 45 3555 6020; thelaundromatcafe.com),
set in a cosy laundrette, or sample home-brewed beers at Nørrebro
Bryghus (00 45 3530 0530; noerrebrobryghus.dk).
Time running out? When in Copenhagen, do as the locals do and
tuck into a red sausage from one of the hot-dog vans that appear on
every street corner. Not feeling peckish? Admire the central train
station's intricate wooden ceiling.
Trip tip Spend an evening with a Danish family and sample some
authentic food thanks to Dine with the Danes (00 45 2685 3961;
dinewiththedanes.dk). The organisation also offers guided tours.
extremely useful official website. The Copenhagen Card, 24-hour (£18)
or 72-hour (£39), gives access to public transport and 60 museums.
Further reading
Time Out Copenhagen (Time Out, £7.99) is a good guide with
detailed restaurant listing and plenty of day trip ideas.
The Complete Hans Christian Andersen Fairy Tales
(Grammercy, £8). Get in the spirit with a classic anthology.
Did you know...
The extremely unpopular Little Mermaid was blown up by a bomb,
has been painted red twice and had her head cut off three times.
outstanding sculptures from the acclaimed Basque sculptor.
Where to stay Looking out on the French promenade, Hotel María
Cristina (00 34 943 437600; westin.com) offers plenty of old-style
elegance and is a film star favourite. Hotel de Londres y de Inglaterra
(00 34 943 440770; hlondres.com) has splendid views on La
Concha and a great restaurant. For cosy and traditional surroundings,
try the comfortable Pensión Gran Bahía (00 34 943 420216;
pensiongranbahia.com), convenient for the beach and the Old Town.
Where to eat and drink Locals spend their weekends eating
pintxos (tapas) and drinking txakoli (sharp white wine) or local cider in
the Old Town’s numerous bars. Fermin Calbetón Street is where
most of the pintxos bars are. Try Munto Jatetxea, as it offers a great
variety of pintxos, served hot or cold. Tamboril (00 34 943 423507)
on Constitution Square also offers a good choice and a scenic
terrace, while Ganbara (00 34 943 422575) on San Jerónimo
specialises in mushrooms. On August 31 Street you’ll find several
good places, including Casa Gandarias (00 34 943 426362;
restaurantegandarias.com), the best for beef sirloin pintxos; A Fuego
Negro (00 34 650 135373; afuegonegro.com), a trendy version of
the traditional bar; and La Cepa (00 34 943 426394;
barlacepa.com,) great for ham bocadillos (sandwiches). To sample
the new Basque cuisine, head to Arzak (00 34 943 278465;
arzak.es) on the outskirts of the city, often described as the finest
restaurant in Spain. Zuberoa (00 34 943 491228), located in an old
farmhouse in the Oiartzun valley near the city, is where top chef
Hilario Arbelaitz dishes up delicious spider crab and trout roe jelly.
Casa Nicolasa in Aldamar (00 34 943 421762) specialises in classic
Basque dishes; try the lovely patxineta, a local soft almond cake.
Time running out? Buy some fresh shrimps and shells from an old
fisherman at the harbour, and eat your tasty sea snack on the pier.
Trip tip Rent a bike on Paseo de la Zurriola (00 34 943 290854).
Cycle on the 12 kilometre-long seafront promenade, going from one
end of the city to the other without having to cross a road.
San Sebastián Tourist Office (00 34 943 481166;
sansebastianturismo.com) is great for free maps and information.
Further reading
Bilbao and the Basque Lands (Cadogan, £12.99) is a good
Photography by Lea Teuscher
introduction to Basque culture and cuisine.
Northern Spain (Footprint Travel Guide, £12.99) has clear maps
and up-to-date, detailed listings of accommodation and restaurants.
Did you know...
Mata Hari and the cream of European aristocracy strolled through
the halls of the Gran Casino (which became the City Hall when
betting was banned) during the glory days of the belle époque.
AMSTERDAM, CITY OF
BIKES AND CANALS.
ABOVE AND BELOW:
VIEW PAINTINGS BY VAN
GOGH AND STEEN IN
THE MUSEUM QUARTER.
THIS PICTURE: NARROW
TOWN HOUSES LINE
MANY CANALS
the parliament building and has a cosy piano bar, contemporary
rooms with marble bathrooms and serves delicious breakfasts.
Les Fleurs (00 359 2810 0800; lesfleurshotel.com) is a more eccentric
option. The centrally located boutique hotel is decorated with funky
furniture and most of its walls are painted with giant flowers inspired
by the city’s Art Nouveau heritage. The Crystal Palace (00 359 2948
9488; crystalpalace-sofia.com), a revamped townhouse with a glass
and steel extension, is a five-star hotel located in a quiet leafy street.
Where to eat and drink Halite, the old market hall by the Mosque,
is a great place for a quick lunch; the ground floor bakeries serve
delicious cheese banitsa pastries and sausage rolls. Try the tasty
grilled meats at Divaka (00 359 2989 9543), which also serves
delicious salads, including the ubiquitous shopska (cucumbers,
peppers and tomatoes topped with grated cheese). To sample
more unusual Bulgarian specialities, head to the traditional Pod Lipite
(00 359 2866 5053) or Manarstirska Magernitsa (00 359 2980
3883; magernitsa.com) – the latter’s menu is influenced by traditional
monastery dishes. For dinner, try the charmingly named Beyond the
Alley, Behind the Cupboard (00 359 2983 5581; beyond-the-alley.com),
an atmospheric artist’s favourite serving imaginative cuisine. Trendy
spots also include the Classic Gourmet Club (00 359 2980 7478;
classicgourmet.eu), a futuristic-looking restaurant serving delicious
seasonal fare, and the sleek Brasserie (00 359 2980 0398). Its
brief but original menu is best enjoyed from the nice patio area at
the back. For a spot of people-watching while sipping a glass
of local wine stop at Babbles on Shishman Street: it has an amazingly
groovy interior. The city’s hippest cocktail bars are probably By the
Way (00 359 2980 3836) and Motto (00 359 2980 3836).
Time running out? Sit down for a cup of tea or coffee and a pretty
tartelette at 100 Grama Sladki. This lovely confiserie sells delicious
cakes, chocolates and biscuits which all make great gifts.
Trip tip Grab a free copy of The Insider’s Guide (insidesofia.com) for
the latest news, restaurant recommendations and route suggestions
for city walks. A few seasonal Bulgarian recipes are also included.
Further reading
Sofia In Your Pocket (inyourpocket.com). Download this free
quarterly guide for up-to-date listings and an events calendar.
Bulgaria (Rough Guide, £13.99) has great background information
on the country as well as a detailed section on Sofia, including
Photography by Léa Teuscher
restaurants listings and travel information.
Did you know...
In Bulgaria, ‘yes’ is indicated by a shake of the head, while ‘no’ is
expressed with a nod, just like it is in India. Bulgarians drink rakiya
(grape or plum brandy) while nibbling on salads, just as Turks like to
sip on raki while snacking on mezze. They also produce tasty wines
and cheeses that would look right at home on a French table.
city breaks
48 PALERMO
HOURS
Léa Teuscher on a city at the crossroads of history, whose medieval lanes lead to
exquisite churches, busy markets and perfect places to sample hearty Sicilian fare
Why go? It’s one of the places where east meets west and north
meets south. Is this Europe or Africa, Italy or the Orient? A mix of
RIGA IS RICH panache and opulence hidden by a dusty cover of poverty and
IN A RANGE OF decay, it doesn’t come postcard perfect. You have to walk it and lose
ARCHITECTURAL
STYLES. ABOVE:
yourself in its tiny paved streets to appreciate its splendours.
THE GUILD HALL. Founded by the Phoenicians, it was once the cultural equal of Cairo
ABOVE RIGHT: or Córdoba; today, plain-looking churches still conceal wonders of
ORTHODOX
CHURCH. Baroque marble and Byzantine golden mosaics. In the exotic North
BELOW RIGHT: African markets, artichokes, blood-red oranges and aubergines are
CATHEDRAL
SQUARE. piled on stalls. Despite war bombs that destroyed the old harbour,
BOTTOM RIGHT: and the long rule of the Mafia that froze regeneration and
THE HOUSE OF
reconstruction, Palermo has three millennia of history, delicious food
BLACKHEADS
and distinctive traditions all waiting to be discovered.
Travelling time Palermo is a three-hour flight from London.
What to do Start with a look at the Quattro Canti, the ‘four corners’
crossroads decorated with fountains and bearing allegories of the
four seasons. Behind it hides Piazza Pretoria and its 16th-century
fountain, as well as the pretty La Martorana church with its Byzantine
mosaics. Between the city’s three main avenues (Via Roma, Via
Maqueda and Corso Vittorio Emanuele) you’ll find little medieval
lanes, winding past glorious churches and ramshackle buildings. Visit
the magnificent Capella Palatina in the Palazzo dei Normanni with its
Arabic palm-tree mosaics and ornate wooden ceiling. The cathedral
(00 39 091 334376), honey-coloured and Catalan influenced, still
retains a mosque pillar in its entrance. Go round the back, and you’ll
discover the apses, beautifully patterned with dark and light stones.
Nearby is the shop of Palermo’s last cart painter, full of multicoloured
Vespas and carts. The huge, neo-classical Teatro Massimo (00 39
091 6053515) is surrounded by great shops and restaurants. For a
taste of ancient history, drop into the Museo Archeologico (00 39
091 6116805) and the Catacombe dei Cappuccini (00 39 091
212117) with its 8,000-odd mummies. Make time to visit the nearby
town of Monreale and its magnificent cathedral, built by the Norman
King William II and located high on a hill. Back in Palermo, stroll round
Ballarò market and soak up the vibrant souk atmosphere.
Travel information
Temperatures in May range from 12°C to 22°C. Currency is the
euro. Palermo is one hour ahead of British Summer Time. The most
pleasant months to visit are April to June, or September and October.
Getting there
Alitalia (0870 544 8259; alitalia.com) flies from London Heathrow
to Palermo via Rome or Milan, from £113 return (including taxes).
Ryanair (0871 246 0000; ryanair.com) flies from London Stansted
direct to Palermo, from £35 return (including taxes).
Resources
Palermo Tourist Office Piazza Castelnuovo 34 (00 39 091
6058351; palermotourism.com) provides information and free maps.
100 FOOD & TRAVEL
104 cities- Venice 19/12/06 15:58 Page 104
4/12/06 16:11 Page 101
city breaks
travel strap
48 VENICE
HOURS
Its ornate palaces might be crumbling, its glory days long gone, but Léa Teuscher
DANISH STYLE: THE LAUNDROHAT CAFÉ finds that La Serenissima has lost none of its power to intrigue and seduce
(ABOVE) AND THE MARBLE CHURCH
(CENTER). IDA DAVIDSEN PREPARES
HER OPEN SANDWICHES (BELOW) Why go? History and mystery. This most serene former republic is a
mirage shimmering on the salty lagoon waters. Its first inhabitants were
villagers escaping the 5th-century Barbarian hordes; salt and fish were
their only resources on this inhospitable land. Centuries later, the trade
of oriental carpets, perfume, silverware, precious stones and spices
had transformed the islands. With their ships sailing freely to
Byzantium, Venetian merchants made enormous profits and splashed
out on floating palazzi and glorious churches. The rest of Europe
envied their opulent lifestyle and riches; the 'mistress of the
Mediterranean' became legendary for her cult of earthly pleasures.
Twelve thousand courtesans strolled the city, nuns happily joined the
celebrating crowds, ladies would not dream of being seen without a
handsome male escort. By the 18th century, incessant wars had left
the city bankrupt, but it was still Europe's party capital. Today, the city's
wonderful carnival, with locals in magnificent costumes, brings the
opulence of the past back to thrilling life; and visitors inevitably get lost
amid the canals and ornate bridges, as they have done for centuries.
Travelling time Flight time to Venice is one hour and 50 minutes.
What to do Wandering around the city's tiny alleys, you'll soon
stumble upon a Lombardesque church, a Gothic palace or a medieval
courtyard. The Piazza San Marco is simply stunning with its Byzantine
basilica (00 39 041 5225205; basilicasanmarco.it); climb the bell
tower for sweeping views of the city. The Doge’s Palace (00 39 041
2715911; museiciviciveneziani.it) is known for its grandiose
staterooms, while the Correr Museum (00 39 041 2405211) is
dedicated to the city's history and Renaissance paintings. Other must-
sees include the Gallerie dell'Accademia (00 39 041 5222247;
gallerieaccademia.org), a treasure trove of Bellini, Tintoretto and
Veronese, and the Guggenheim collection (00 39 041 2405411;
guggenheim-venice.it) with its Picassos and Kandinskys. Take the
vaporetto on the Grand Canal, and stop off at the Rialto bridge. On the
left is the city's fish and vegetable market, where you can feast on the
local white asparagus, zucca pumpkin and tiny St Erasmo artichokes.
Travel information
Temperatures in February/March range from 0ºC to 12ºC. Currency is
the euro. Venice is one hour ahead of GMT. Comfortable waterproof
shoes are essential; Venice can be very wet in winter. The Venice
Carnival takes place from February 9-20.
Getting there
Alitalia (0870 544 8259; alitalia.com) flies from London Heathrow to
Venice Marco Polo, via Rome or Milan. Return flights from £56.
Easyjet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) flies direct from London
Gatwick to Venice Marco Polo. Return flights from £70.
Alilaguna (00 39 41 523 5775; alilaguna.it) runs a boat service
hourly to San Marco from the airport.
104 FOOD & TRAVEL
city breaks
48 LJUBLJANA
HOURS
Léa Teuscher visits the tiny Slovenian capital, full of fairytale fantasy and elegant
architecture, with a colourful cuisine born of its complex history
Why go? Ljubljana is a city fit for a prince – or princess. A castle
crowns the hill, dragons hide under bridges and vaults, and the old
town is criss-crossed with lanes cobbled with shiny dark stones.
Medieval houses in pinks and yellows tilt forward to welcome you,
while elegant fountains fill up with clear water. Explore the city’s Art
Nouveau splendours, visit the architectural marvels of local star Josef
Plecˇnik or stop for a Slovenian meal in one of the atmospheric cafés
lining the Ljubljanica’s leafy banks. Mirroring the country’s complex
history, the cuisine mixes Austrian strudels with Italian gnocchi,
Croatian grills and Hungarian goulash. There are plenty more
treasures to unearth in this peaceful and relaxed capital. No wonder
Ljubljana sounds so much like the Slovenian ljubljena (beloved).
What to do The old town’s hub is Presˇernov Square, where a pink,
Franciscan church sits next to striking Art Nouveau buildings. Cross
the river on one of Plecˇnik’s famous three bridges, and turn left. With
its lively stalls and elegant colonnades, the market is the place to be
on Saturday morning. Stock up on honey and pumpkin oil, then move
on towards the cathedral and the funicular behind it. Hop on, and in a
minute you’ll have reached the castle (ljubljanafestival.si). Climb up to
take in the wonderful views, or go down to the ornate chapel. A short
walk downhill through the park, and you’ll find yourself in the oldest
part of town. Look out for the dragons in the town hall’s frescoes, or
walk along the river under the willow trees. Cross Cobbler’s Bridge
and you’ll find the striking university library, its windows designed
TOP LEFT: LA CONCHA by Plecˇnik to resemble open books. Next door, the City Museum
BEACH. MIDDLE FROM of Ljubljana (00 386 1 241 2500; mm-lj.si) is the place to learn
LEFT: SHOPS AND BARS
IN THE OLD TOWN, AND about the city’s Roman heritage and troubled history. On Sundays,
A COOK (CENTRE) OUTSIDE the riverbanks are transformed into a lovely flea and antique market.
HIS GASTRONOMIC CLUB.
LEFT: THE BASILICA;
Then head to the huge Tivoli Park for a green break, or stop at
A VIEW OF THE BEACH the National Gallery (00 386 1 241 5434; ng-slo.si) to admire the
FROM MONTE IGUELDO. stunning Gothic statues and 17th-century Slovenian landscapes.
Where to stay For a touch of old-fashioned luxury, try the Grand
Travel information
Temperatures in November can range from 2ºC to 8°C. Currency
is the euro. Ljubljana is one hour ahead of GMT, and the city is
a two-hour flight from London.
Getting there
Adria Airways (00 386 1 369 1010; adria.si) flies from London
Gatwick to Ljubljana twice a week.
Easyjet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.co.uk) offers one flight per day
from London Stansted to Ljubljana.
Resources
Slovenia Tourist Office (0870 2255 305; slovenia.info) The
UK-based office is great for travel tips and practical information.
100 FOOD & TRAVEL
THIS PICTURE,
BELOW AND RIGHT:
city breaks
ALEXANDER NEVSKI
CATHEDRAL; NEARBY
FLEA MARKET SELLING
RELIGIOUS IMAGES;
PAINTINGS FROM THE
CHURCH CRYPT
48 Thessaloniki
LEFT FROM TOP:
THE CITY BATHS;
100 GRAMA
Hours
SLADKI; COLOURFUL
BUILDINGS ON THE
LARGO; SHOP SIGNS
NEAR HALITE MARKET
Léa Teuscher discovers Greece’s little-known second city – boasting art galleries,
several universities, music events and fine dining, it is the country’s culture capital
Why go? The mishmash of people and hotchpotch of architecture
makes vibrant Thessaloniki a fascinating place to visit. Home for
centuries to Greeks, Turks, north African Jews and gypsies it is
renowned for delicious sweets and outstanding tavernas and cafés.
The city has preserved traces from every period in its ancient and
varied history, from Roman ruins and Byzantine churches to Turkish
baths, Ottoman townhouses and Art Deco buildings. A cosmopolitan
destination, it is also the gateway to northern Greece; stay for a couple
more days and you could relax by a beautiful beach on the Halkidiki
Peninsula, visit the monks on Mount Athos or discover local wineries.
What to do Wake up and smell the coffee: beans are freshly-ground
in every neighbourhood grocer. Thessaloniki’s streets, lined with
orange and lilac trees, might be filled with post-war concrete blocks,
but they are bustling with life and hide plenty of architectural jewels.
Start on the huge Aristotelous Square, with the sea at one end and a
ruined Roman forum on the other. The nearby Modiano and Kapani
Markets have stalls selling everything from fresh octopus to glossy
olives; while the shops on Tsimiski are the place for clothes shopping.
Wander along the busy street to the Agios Dimitrios church, known
for its crypt and 8th-century mosaics. Further east are the ruins of
the Palace of Galerius, with more beautiful mosaics, and up the street
you’ll find the 4th-century Roman Emperor’s ornate Arch, now used
by locals as a meeting place. Climb the hill to the old town and check
out the Byzantine city walls – from here there are great panoramic
views with Mount Olympus in the distance. Stroll down through steep
and narrow lanes, admiring the old Ottoman houses and peaceful
monasteries. Walk along the waterfront to the city’s landmark
White Tower and you’ll find two fantastic museums: check out the
Archeological Museum (00 30 2310 830 538) and the religious
icons and tombs of the Museum of Byzantine Culture (00 30 2310
868 570). Of course, you could also spend the afternoon roasting on
one of the nearby beaches, like Perea or Nei Epivates. The turquoise
Aegean Sea and beaches are less than an hour away.
Travel information
Temperatures in August and September range from 19 to 31°C.
Currency is the euro. Thessaloniki is three hours ahead of GMT and a
three-hour 30-minute flight from London.
Getting there
olympic airlines (0871 2000 500; olympicairlines.com) flies direct
from London Gatwick to Thessaloniki twice a week.
easyjet (0905 821 0905; easyjet.com) has four direct flights a
week from London Gatwick to Thessaloniki.
Resources
Thessaloniki Tourist information (00 30 2310 500 310). Within
the port’s passenger terminal, it offers useful brochures and maps.
96 food & travel
FOOD & TRAVEL 105
Where to stay The Grand Albergo Sole (00 39 091 604111;
ghshotels.it) is a modern 4-star hotel right next to the Quattro Canti.
Some rooms have views over the Pretoria fountain, and the bar-
restaurant has a great rooftop terrace. The 18th-century Centrale
Palace Hotel (00 39 091 336666; centralepalacehotel.it) is also at
BENEATH
the heart of things; it has a roof-garden restaurant, an opulent Italian PALERMO’S
Renaissance lobby and lavishly furnished rooms. Grand Hotel et Des SLIGHTLY
DUSTY VENEER
Palmes (00 39 091 6028111; cormorano.net/sgas/despalmes) is a ARE BAROQUE
splendid Art Nouveau building with columns, panelled walls and TREASURES
AND BYZANTINE
great chandeliers. For a smaller, cosier feel, try the Massimo Plaza GLORIES
Hotel (00 39 091 325657; massimoplazahotel.com). Facing the
grand theatre, it offers 15 lovely bedrooms in a lively neighbourhood.
Where to eat and drink Antica Focacceria San Francesco (00 39
091 320264), on Via Paternostro, is part of the slow food movement
and a local favourite. Order a pizza or try the traditional milza, a roll
with ricotta, Parmesan and sautéed veal spleen. For a light lunch and
great cakes, head for the Antico Caffè Spiannato (00 39 091
583231) on the Via Principe di Belmonte, and try Sicilian almond
cakes and cannoli, the tube-shaped pastry filled with ricotta cheese,
chocolate and candied oranges. The atmospheric Cucina Papoff (00
39 091 586460; cucinapapoff.com) is great for dinner, serving dishes
such as maccu, a bean soup with wild fennel, or street-food favourites
like arancini (stuffed rice balls). Ristorante Cin-Cin (00 39 091
6124095; ristorantecincin.com) on Via Manin serves Sicilian dishes like
zucchini soufflé or pistachio and cinnamon semifreddo, presented as
they would have been when served to the aristocracy two centuries
ago. Cana Enoteca (00 39 091 6101147) on Via Alloro is a medieval
wine cellar, where you can sample great wines from small producers,
accompanied by platters of salami, pâtés and even dark chocolate.
Time running out? Head to Ilardo on Foro Italico (facing the shore)
the oldest gelateria in town. Enjoy an ice-cream the Sicilian way –
served on a little bap – and admire the sea views.
Trip tip Shop in Palermo’s pizzo-free shops, which refuse to pay
protection money to the Mafia. You can find the list on
addiopizzo.org, under ‘commercanti pizzo-free’.
Further reading
Lonely Planet Sicily (Lonely Planet, £12.99) is good for up-to-
date listings and excellent background information.
The Leopard by Giuseppe di Lampedusa (Piper Verlag, £6.99) is
a classic novel with beautiful descriptions of Sicily’s arid landscapes.
Photography Léa Teuscher
Did you know...
Football was originally brought to Palermo in the late 18th century
by English sailors of cargo vessels who would play at the port in
their spare time. Palermo’s football club, the Rosaneri, has the city’s
eagle as its symbol, and a black and pink strip, said to represent
the bitterness and sweetness in life. Don’t be surprised to find
young men dressed in pink swarming the city on match days.
104 cities- Venice 19/12/06 15:30 Page 105
ON THE GRAND CANAL
(TOP). BELOW: AN
ORNATE GONDOLA
AWAITS PASSENGERS,
BRIGHT CARNIVAL
MASKS, THE GOLDEN
BASILICA ON PIAZZA
SAN MARCO AND A QUIET
RESIDENTIAL CANAL
Join the crowds on a boat ride to the island of Murano, where you'll
see glassblowers practising their magical art. For a night at the opera,
visit the legendary Teatro La Fenice (00 39 041 2424; teatrolafenice.it).
Where to stay Admire the Piazza San Marco across the blue waters
from the tranquil Hotel Bauer Palladio (00 39 041 520 7557;
bauerhotels.com). This former Palladian convent on Giudecca Island
offers spacious and beautifully restored rooms. Ca' Pisani (00 39 041
2401411; capisanihotel.it) glows with Thirties designer chic, while the
Gritti Palace (00 39 041 794611; luxurycollection.com) is an elegant
15th-century palazzo on the Grand Canal. Think Claridges on the
water. B&B Sandra (00 39 041 720957; bbalessandra. com) is a
charming little b&b, located between the Ghetto and the Rialto.
Where to eat and drink For great gourmet presents, head for the
pastine pastries and frollini biscuits of the lovely Tonolo bakery in
Dorsoduro, or the spicy chocolates and cocoa pasta of Vizio Virtù (00
39 041 275 0149; viziovirtu.com). Clean your coffee cup with grappa
at the traditional Caffè Florian on San Marco (00 39 041 520 5641;
caffeflorian.com) or the modern Caffè del Doge (00 39 041 522
7787; caffedeldoge.com). For Venetian tapas, discover one of the
city's traditional bacari, like the Osteria alla Botte (00 39 041 520
9775; osteriaallabotte.it). Hemingway's favourite hangout, the
exclusive Locanda Cipriani (00 39 041 730150; locandacipriani.com)
is perfect for lunch. Apero time in Venice means a local 'spritz' in the
numerous bars around the Rialto or a Bellini cocktail at the glamorous
Harry's Bar (00 39 041 528 5777). Osteria da Fiore (00 39 041
721308) is the celebrated Michelin institution, famed for its risotto. De
Pisis (00 39 041 520 7022) offers a first-class adventurous take on
Venetian classics in a perfect setting on the Grand Canal. Try the tasty
bigoli pasta served with anchovies, truffles and celeri leaves.
Time running out? Listen to a classical concert in one of Venice's
peaceful churches, like the Chiesa di San Trovaso in Dorsoduro.
Trip tip Coffee prices often double if you sit down – drink your
espresso Venetian style, standing up next to the bar.
Resources
Tourist Board of Venice (00 39 41 529 8711; turismovenezia.it).
Venice Carnival (carnevale.venezia.it), for this year’s programme.
Further reading
Photography Léa Teuscher
Time Out Venice Guide (Time Out, £7.99). Very useful guidebook.
The Da Fiore Cookbook (Morrow Cookbooks, £18). Recipes from
one of Venice's top restaurants.
Did you know...
Venetian ladies wore such high heels in the 15th century that they
needed helpers on each side to stop them from falling.
LEFT: THE BUZZING
MARKET WHERE YOU
CAN BUY HONEY;
DRAGON BRIDGE;
THE OLD TOWN;
FRANCISCAN CHURCH
(ALSO THIS PICTURE).
BOTTOM: THE RIVER
LJUBLJANICA WHICH
FLOWS THROUGH THE
STORY-BOOK CITY
Hotel Union Executive (00 386 1 308 1270; gh-union.si). The palace,
located just a stone’s throw from Presˇernov Square, has a beautiful
creamy façade and plenty of period detail. Head to the other side of
the old town for the city’s first boutique hotel, Antiq Hotel (00 386 1
421 3560; antiqhotel.si). The 14 rooms and apartments overlook a
charming square and fountain; some offer a glimpse of the castle.
Celica hostel (00 386 1 230 9700; hostelcelica.com) is the wild card
choice. This former prison, dubbed the hippest hotel in town, has
become a landmark. Its 20 designer cells, revamped by international
artists and architects, are simple but totally stylish.
Where to eat and drink Lunch is traditionally the main meal in
Slovenia, and there’s no better place to sample the country’s diverse
cuisine than in a traditional gostilna. Try a dish of game with berry
sauce and sˇtruklji (rolled dough dumplings often filled with cheese)
at the rustic but chic Sˇpajza (00 386 1 425 3094). The exclusive
Taverna Tatjana (00 386 1 421 0087) and Gostilna As (00 386 1
421 0087) both serve tasty fish specialities. Zlata Ribica (00 386 1
2412680) looks out on the river and serves great soups and traditional
cold cuts. Ignore Atrium IV’s ugly blue sign (00 386 1 2511069) and
have a look inside. It’s cosy, quirky (tables hang upside down from
the ceiling; alcoves hide tables for two) and it serves delicious lamb
and fish baked in a huge stone oven. For home-made beers and
wines, and tasty local dishes, try the welcoming Compa (00 386
1 431 8111) on Trubarjeva street. Kavarna Zvezda (00 386 1 421
9090) on Kongresni Square is great for cakes and coffee. In the
evening, head to Dvorni Bar (00 1 386 251 1257), where you’ll find
a hundred vintage Slovenian wines on the menu.
Time running out? Have a glass of Lasˇko beer or a strong coffee
at the cosy Café Antico. Relax and admire the frescoed ceilings.
Trip tip Don’t leave before tasting the city’s signature fast food, the
horse burger. You could also snack on a burek, a tasty filo pastry
stuffed with cheese, meat or apple.
Ljubljana Tourist Office Adamicˇ-Lundrovo nabrezˇje 2 (00 386 1
306 1215; ljubljana-tourism.si) gives away maps and brochures.
Further reading
Best of Ljubljana (Lonely Planet, £7.99) is a good pocket guide
with all the necessary information and a useful fold-out map.
Did you know...
Ljubljana’s symbol is a fierce dragon. Jason and his Argonauts,
returning from their fleece-stealing expedition, are said to have slain
the beast on the banks of the Ljubljanica. According to another local
legend, the four-winged creatures which adorn Dragon Bridge wag
their tails whenever a virgin crosses the bridge.
clockwise from top
left: restaurants near
aristotelous square;
sesame bread; modiano
market; local beach;
the white tower; arch
of galerius; view from the
travel strap
city’s byzantine walls
Where to stay A recent revamp has tranformed Anatolia Hotel
(00 30 2310 522 422; anatoliahotel.gr) into a swish affair with
beautifully designed rooms and a welcoming lobby. The historic,
boutique Capsis Hotel (00 30 2310 506 500; capsishotel.gr) is
located in the old Ottoman Post Office building, while Le Palace
(00 30 2310 257 400; lepalace.gr) is an elegant three-star pad on
Tsimiski. The most luxurious addresses in town are Makedonia Palace
(00 30 2310 897 197; classicalhotels.com) and Mediterranean
Palace (00 30 2310 552 554; mediterranean-palace.gr). The first
has a contemporary feel with stunning views of the seafront; the
second boasts classic rooms and a charming yellow exterior.
Where to eat and drink There are plenty of gourmet options near
Modiano Market – the pretty Ahinos & Fouskes (00 30 2310 281
566) serves seafood specialities such as urchins, while trendy Meat
Me (00 30 2310 222 644) is good for grilled food, has lovely dips
and delicious fig and chocolate cakes. In the historic neighbourhood
of Ladadika, try a traditional meat dish cooked in claypots at Kioupia
(00 30 2310 553 239), or dine on traditional mezes and salads at
the charming Panellinion (00 30 2310 567 220). Along the seafront
sample grilled sardines or shrimps saganiki – a spicy tomato sauce
with feta cheese – at the 4 Sea Food Café (00 30 2310 897197),
in front of Makedonia Palace, or stop for a huge salad and souvlaki
at the Kitchen Bar (00 30 2310 502 241). Relax on its terrace
and admire the Gulf of Thessaloniki. Coffee drinking seems to
be the national sport – the bustling squares of Aristotelous and
Navarinou offer giant café terraces where people catch up and play
backgammon. The eccentric retro bar Pastaflora Darling! on Zefxidou
street is also worth a visit for a golden margarita cocktail.
Time running out? Indulge your sweet tooth; pastry counters are
filled with loukoumadhes – ball-shaped doughnuts served with honey
and cinnamon – syrupy baklavas and sweet almond triangles.
Trip tip Take tasty Greek sauces and preserves home – buy them at
Kosmos, a renowned deli located in front of Modiano Market.
Photography by Thessaloniki Tourist Information; Léa Teuscher
Further reading
Greece (Lonely Planet, £13.99) has a detailed section on the city
and includes a food glossary and restaurant listings.
salonica, City of Ghosts (Harper Perennial, £8.99). Renowned
historian Mark Mazower brings the city’s complex history to life.
Did you know...
Like the Spanish, Greeks eat late: lunch is usually around 3pm and
dinner at about 11pm. Most dishes are designed for sharing, and
mains don’t automatically come with an accompaniment, so make
sure you order a bit of everything. Greek hospitality is legendary:
waiters will often bring you a complimentary pudding, and coffee
always comes with delicious little biscuits on the side.
food & travel 101

Whistle blowers
Léa Teuscher tracks down the most scenic, dramatic and romantic rail
journeys from all around the world
T
ravelling is not just about where you’re going – it’s also about
how you get there. The process of moving from A to B is often
the most interesting stage of a journey, and this is particularly
true of trains. What better way to embark on your adventure than
to jump aboard a carriage and be pulled by a puffing or purring
machine to places other transport cannot reach? Trains have
privileged access to the most fascinating, remote parts of the
world. Their tracks are engineering feats, disappearing into dark,
mysterious tunnels, winding across soaring viaducts, seemingly
active traveller
AnimAl
magic
migrations offer some of the world’s most
impressive natural spectacles. léa Teuscher
follows the herd across countries and continents
84 food & travel
great train journeys
defying the laws of gravity. Trains can cross vast deserts, or reach
hidden valleys amid snowy peaks. Stations, some old and timeless
with Victorian Gothic arches, others ultra-modern with glass roofs,
add to the anticipation of the journey. What a pleasure to dine
against a backdrop of changing landscapes before falling asleep
to the engine’s rhythm...and waking up in another country. Book a
seat on a narrow-gauge line in Spain, a luxury antique carriage in
South Africa or a hair-raising rollercoaster ride in Mexico, and you
will enjoy both the travelling and the arrival.
FOOD & TRAVEL
F
locks of Arctic birds heading south for the winter, turtles
paddling to beaches to breed and whales swimming north to
find food: every year, migrations take place all over the world
creating awesome wildlife spectacles. For a truly rewarding scene
you don’t need to spend hours scouring the landscape with your
binoculars; the size of these assemblies means that the animals
are generally quite easy to spot. Visitors to Christmas Island can’t
fail to miss the millions of red crabs as they scuttle towards the
golden-white sands. While in Africa, the sight of densely packed
herds of wildebeest travelling together in the same direction fills the
horizon. Offering an unparalleled insight into animal life these epic
journeys provide an excellent opportunity to witness the strength
and stamina of the natural world. Here, we follow eight migrations,
with tips on how to get there and the best time to travel.
FAR LEFT: THE
HIGHS AND LOWS
OF THE GLACIER
EXPRESS. LEFT
great train journeys AND BELOW LEFT:
GLIMPSES OF
TUNISIA ON THE
RED LIZARD. THIS
PICTURE, RIGHT
AND BELOW
SWITZERLAND RIGHT: VENETIAN
CLASS WITH THE
Glacier Express ORIENT EXPRESS.
BOTTOM: THE
A spectacular trip through the Alps on the Glacier Express will TRAIN IN SPAIN
take you from Zermatt, with its quaint chalets and Toblerone-
shaped Matterhorn, to the remote Engadin region and its fabulous
ski slopes. It is 'express' only in name – at 39 kilometres an hour,
it’s probably the slowest express in the world. Thanks to the
panoramic windows and glass skylights, you won’t miss any of
the stunning scenery. The train slides between the vineyards
and orchards of sunny Valais before climbing up to the Oberalp
Pass. At 2,033 metres, it’s the highest spot of the journey with
unforgettable views. At Filisur, the line divides, so you end your
journey either with a fondue in St Moritz or a raclette in Davos.
Details: Eight hours, 290 kilometres (00 41 27 927 7777; glacierexpress.ch).
TUNISIA
Red Lizard
The Lézard Rouge’s natural habitat is the rocky desert of central
Tunisia. Running from the mining town of Métlaoui to the
stunning Selja Gorges, the train is the only way to access a series
of spectacular canyons and ravines. Formerly owned by the Bey – or
duke – of Tunis, the train boasts original 19th-century carriages,
including the Bey’s private car. The plush red velvet and leather
certainly contrast with the traditional Berber motifs and beautifully
crafted textiles piled up in local markets. The track, originally used by
mining trains carrying phosphates, winds its way past date palms and
Berber villages clinging to the steep rocks. It goes through narrow
passages and tunnels, along tiny, almost dried-up streams and gorgeous
ochre cliffs. You get to see this arid, lunar landscape twice, since the
train turns back at Redeyef and returns to Métlaoui by the same
route. It’s not surprising that these stunning pink-orange cliffs and
surrounding desert have starred in films such as Star Wars and
The English Patient.
Details: Forty minutes, 43 kilometres (one-way) (020 7224 5561;
cometotunisia.co.uk).
88 FOOD & TRAVEL
The Oslo-Bergen train whistles its way through the icy peaks of the Hardangervidda
mountain range, across a world of snowstorms, glaciers and avalanches
great train journeys SCOTLAND
West Highland Line
Book a seat on the Glasgow-Mallaig West
Highland line and you’ll be rewarded with
mile after mile of peaks and lochs. Set off
on a clear winter day to get the best of
these deserted, dramatic landscapes. The
line starts by following the Clyde river, and
soon the Glaswegian urban sprawl gives
way to Loch Lomond’s tranquil scenery.
The carriages snake through old Highland
stations – some have been transformed
into charming tearooms. After Tyndrum
the track twists into a spectacular hairpin,
between two viaducts at the foot of the 90 FOOD & TRAVEL
majestic Ben Lui and Ben Dorain. The
train then crosses the immense Rannoch
Moor, where regal eagles fly over the silent
landscape. At Fort William, just under Ben
Nevis, you can hop on the Jacobite. Also
famed as Harry Potter’s Hogwarts Express,
the tiny steam train puffs its way atop the
21 arches of the Glenfinnan Viaduct from
June to October. Not originally designed
for aspiring wizards and witches, it was
built to transport Mallaig's fresh herring
The Jacobite, a tiny steam train also famed as Harry Potter's
Hogwarts Express, puffs its way atop the 21 arches of the
south as quickly as possible.
Details: Five hours, 264 kilometres
Glenfinnan Viaduc on the way to Mallaig
(firstgroup.com/scotrail)
87
NEW ZEALAND EGYPT
TranzAlpine Cairo-Aswan
Making tracks between Christchurch and Greymouth, the Hop on to the Cairo-Aswan for an express journey to the
TranzAlpine links one coast of New Zealand’s South Island to heart of the Nile civilisation. The air-conditioned train leaves
the other. After leaving Christchurch’s Addington station, the train the bazaars and minarets of Cairo, the largest city in Africa, to
passes small wooden bungalows and whizzes across the fields of head straight for the dunes. After passing by the pyramids of
the Canterbury Plains. Before you have time to count the sheep Giza, the train follows the Nile Valley all the way to the dry
and red deer, the snow-capped Southern Alps appear on the city of Aswan. On your left, the desert spreads to Syria and
horizon. After a quick stop at Springfield, where fresh muffins are beyond. The wind can create sand dunes over 30 metres high;
loaded just in time for coffee, the TranzAlpine heads straight to you might even witness the beginnings of a few sandstorms.
the spectacular gorges and river valleys of the Waimakariri River. On your right, the blue Nile and its accompanying strip of
The line continues over a handful of steel bridges and through lush vegetation cut quite a contrast. Traditional feluccas bob
a few tunnels to the Staircase, a 73-metre-high viaduct built on the waters, which are fringed with palm trees and papyrus,
over the river. Take in the fabulous views from the central open- and fellahin work in the fields. The valley spans 3,000 years of
air carriage before the train reaches the misty, grassy plateaux continuous history, and temples and historic monuments pave
leading to Arthur’s Pass. The train continues through the Otira the way to Aswan. The express stops at Luxor, where you can
tunnel, valleys, mining towns and lush beech rainforests until it admire Karnak and the Valley of the Kings. Once you’ve had
reaches Greymouth, a great base from which to visit Punakaiki’s your fill of hieroglyphs and pharaohs, hop on a felucca, and sail
pancake rocks and blowholes, or the region’s stunning glaciers. back to Cairo on the Nile. The leisurely cruise will allow you to
Details: Four and a half hours, 224 kilometres (00 64 4 495 stop at lovely fishing villages and many other historical sites.
0775; tranzscenic.co.nz) Details: Thirteen and a half hours, 879 kilometres (egyptrail.
92 FOOD & TRAVEL
hotel of the month
GRAND HOTEL CENTRAL
BARCelonA
Visually stunning this calming retreat lies at the heart of Barcelona. léa Teuscher visits the
urban oasis finding it provides the perfect base from which to explore the Catalan capital
G
rand Hotel Central certainly lives up to its name. Just look up at
the huge bronze doors and elegant facade, inspired by the first
1930s skyscrapers of Chicago, and you’ll see that this is not a
shy, humble building but an impressive affair. As for the location – well, it
can’t really get better than this. With its Via layetana address, the hotel
is minutes away from the harbour and trendy Born district, where bars
and boutiques cluster around the beautiful Santa Maria church. Cross
the street and you’ll find the tiny lanes of the Barrio Gótico and the
bustling cathedral square; turn right and Santa Catarina market awaits
with its olives, cheese counters and hanging jamon Ibérico. Inside, the
hotel is a haven of peace. Its dark, tranquil atmosphere offers a calm
respite from the colourful and busy city. Pass the wrought iron lamps
and ultra-modern design of the lobby to find corridors painted black
and with low lighting. They set the stage for the relaxed and stylish
bedrooms, spread over eight floors, and the fabulous roof terrace with
its swimming pool and panoramic views. The furniture is minimalist and
the decor immaculate. Bedrooms come with thoughtful, welcoming
touches: a free, non-alcoholic minibar and a card placed on the bed
each evening with the next day’s weather forecast and tips on how
to improve your Catalan vocabulary. If you’re feeling peckish but too
relaxed to go out, room service offers classic sandwiches and tapas
as well as more interesting gastronomic options designed by Michelin-
starred Ramón Freixa, including grilled cuttlefish and an indulgent
chocolate fondant. The award-winning chef runs the Actual restaurant
situated on the ground floor, where you can dine on roasted aubergines
and manchego cheese cannelloni and, for dessert, enjoy a trio of coffee
ice creams and delicious brownies.
138 food & travel
UK-ITALY
Venice Simplon-Orient-Express
This classic journey will see you jumping on a British Pullman at
London Victoria one day and gliding on a gondola in Venice the
next. First, you’ll tuck into a three-course champagne lunch as
the Kentish countryside whips past. Across the Channel the blue
and gold carriages of the Simplon Express wait for you in Calais.
The beautifully restored Twenties, Thirties and Fifties coaches will
whisk you across Europe in the style of the heyday of the grand,
romantic train journey. The polished wood panels and gleaming
brass are pure vintage; the two-bed compartments convert
to beautiful private sitting rooms. The original Orient-Express
carried VIP passengers from Paris to Romania and Constantinople
via the 20-kilometre-long Simplon Tunnel. Like celebrities and
spies before you, take breakfast with a view of the Swiss Alps, or
enjoy the grand piano in the Bar Car. After a coffee in Innsbruck,
afternoon tea in the Dolomites and an ice-cream in Verona, you’ll
arrive in Venice, a fitting ending for this magical journey.
Details: Thirty-one hours, 1,715 kilometres, March-November (0845
077 2222; orient-expresstrains.com).
SPAIN
El Transcantábrico
A ride on El Transcantábrico is the best way to discover the
gourmet heaven that is Green Spain. Follow its tracks from
Santiago de Compostela in Galicia to León, and you’ll get to see
the high mountains, rugged cliffs, green meadows and lovely
beaches of northern Spain. The luxury carriages have stunning CANADA
suites with a Jacuzzi, and a series of amazing restaurants. After Rocky Mountaineer
admiring Santiago’s medieval old town, change pace in Ribadeo The Rocky Mountaineer criss-crosses the
by swapping the train for a boat trip on the Eo estuary. Back on
Canadian Rockies with three different but
the train and on the way to Castilla, there’s also plenty of tapas to
equally scenic routes between glacier lakes
be eaten in Oviedo, the beautiful Picos de Europa national park
to discover, and the striking architectureNORWAY
and majestic mountain ranges. All are
of Bilbao to admire. After
a stop at the Romanesque town of Palencia,Oslo-Bergen
the journey finally
ends in León, where you can dine on smoked beef, taste the local
The Oslo-Bergen train whistles its
two-day adventures with overnight stop,
following the tracks of the historic train routes
constructed to unite the vast country. The
garlic soup and visit the majestic Gothic cathedral.
way through the icy peaks of the Kicking Horse route links Vancouver to Banff
Details: Eight days, 1,040 kilometres, March-October (00 34 985
981711; transcantabrico.feve.es).
Hardangervidda mountain range, across or Calgary through the famous Spiral tunnels,
a world of snowstorms, glaciers and while the Fraser Discovery route follows
avalanches. Opened in 1909 by King the Fraser River from Whistler to Jasper and
Haakon,FOOD & quickly
the track TRAVEL leaves89
Oslo, the historic Cariboo Gold Rush region. But
taking you through Norway’s pretty to admire the plentiful wildlife and Mount
fields and isolated farms until you Robson, try the Yellowhead Route, from
reach the valley of Hallingdal. Then Vancouver to Jasper, through country home
the line climbs, bringing you closer and to moose, elks, bears and eagles. Travel along
closer to the white summits, passing the mighty Fraser River, where millions of
mountain lakes and waterfalls, a string salmon come to spawn each year. Turquoise
of Baroque and Art Nouveau stations, rivers and emerald forests fill the valleys
and the country’s best winter resorts. around the towering Mount Robson, highest
Stop at the impressive Myrdal station of the Canadian Rockies. Special panoramic
and hop on to the Flåm Railway. This carriages allow you the best views of the
engineering feat descends down the spectacular rushing waters of the Pyramid
steep, scenic mountainside through 20 Falls and Hell’s Gate, and the Albreda Glacier.
tunnels. Or stay put, and catch glimpses Details: Two days, 863 kilometres,
of the western Norwegian fjords. The April-December (00 800 0606 7372;
train pulls into the old Hanseatic city rockymountaineer.com).
of Bergen just in time for a plate of
smoked salmon or fresh whale steak.
Details: Six-and-a-half hours, 493
kilometres. Norway Rail (nsb.no)
or Visit Norway (020 7389 8800; Travel along the mighty Fraser River, where
visitnorway.com). millions of salmon come to spawn. Turquoise
rivers and emerald forests fill the valleys
Leave Pretoria’s broad avenues and colourful jacarandas and jump What better way to travel through Australia’s red interior than by AUSTRALIA
aboard the legendary Blue Train for a ride across South Africa’s the legendary Ghan? Previously known as The Afghan Express, the The Ghan
diverse scenery, all the way to Cape Town. The smart, Thirties train takes its name from the skilled Afghan camel-drivers who
blue-steel coaches, built in Birmingham, hide a world of luxury. helped carry food, newspapers and even furniture and pianos
The plush compartments have en-suite bath, classic livery and to isolated Alice Springs. Today the train continues through to
great
Africanrail journeys
décor. Stand on the observation car and take in the red Darwin, linking the fertile south shores and the rust-coloured
earth, cornfields and giant termite mounds of Transvaal. Just after desert with the tropical north coast. This long journey across the
tea-time, the train arrives at Kimberley station, where you can outback is the perfect opportunity to marvel at the wondrous
SOUTH AFRICA board an old tram for a ride down to the mine and the days of colours of the continent’s vast heart, the greens, pinks and blues
The Blue Train the diamond rush. Dinner is a black-tie affair, with plates of Karoo of the ever-changing plains and saltpans. You’ll cross the rugged
lamb, ostrich fillet and Knysna oysters accompanied by the best MacDonnell Ranges and their red-brown cliffs to reach Alice
local wines. Cross the Orange river and it’s time for the Grand Springs. Stop at the Alice, as the old telegraph station is known,
Karoo. This wild, dry land is peppered with whitewashed houses, from which you can explore the sacred sandstone marvels of Uluru
their zinc roofs shining under the stars. Wake up as the track (Ayer’s Rock), the Olgas and Kings Canyon. After a pint in one of
crosses the Swartberg mountains and heads for the Huguenot Alice’s frontier pubs, jump back on the Ghan to continue your
valley and its world-famous vineyards. Cape Town with its Table journey through the Northern Territory. Past Tennant Creek and
Mountain and colourful houses is just around the corner. Katherine, the parched land slowly transforms into lush rainforests.
Details: Twenty-seven hours, 1,600 kilometres (00 27 12 334 Multicultural Darwin and its lovely beaches are on the horizon.
8459; bluetrain.co.za). Details: Forty-three hours, 3,507 kilometres (gsr.com.au).
MEXICO
El Chepe
A rollercoaster ride through Mexico, the Chihuahua-Al Pacifico line
– or El Chepe as it is better known – will take you from canyons
to golden beaches. Follow Pancho Villa to Chihuahua, were you
will have to decide between the tourist First Express or the regular,
popular line. Once you’ve chosen, bag a seat on the left; apparently great train journeys
the views are better on that side. The train will first stop at Ciudad
Cuauhtémoc, famous for its black-wearing, blond inhabitants -– Dutch
Mennonites settled in the region in the Twenties. After Creel is the
land of the Tarahumara, a mysterious tribe of corn farmers and
hunters, known for their peyotl drug and drums that sometimes echo
in the canyons. The abandoned gold mines of Divisadero give way to
breathtaking views of the Copper Canyon, four times bigger than the
Colorado Grand Canyon. El Chepe heads straight into the canyons via
successive bridges and tunnels. After Bahuichivo, at 2,700 metres, the
train starts its descent, a funfair ride that drops sharply until the pines
become cactus, and the fresh cerveza of Los Mochis beckons.
Details: Sixteen hours, 656 kilometres (00 52 1614 439 7212; chepe.com.mx).
BEST OF THE REST
Old Patagonian Express, Argentina
The antique wooden coaches of ‘La Trochita’ travel enormous distances
across the wild lands of Patagonia (latrochita.org.ar).
Ho Chi Minh-Hanoi, Vietnam
This popular route links Vietnam’s cultural capital, Hanoi, to the
business hub of Ho Chi Minh via stunning landscapes of rice paddies
and jungles (vr.com.vn).
Palace on Wheels, India
A maharaja’s former private train, the Palace offers a luxury
journey across Rajasthan, visiting the cities of Jaipur and Jaisalmer
(rajasthantourism.gov.in).
Havana-Matanzas, Cuba
First used to transport sugar cane, this route is a great way to discover
the real Cuba, with its beautiful coasts and palm plantations (cubatravel.cu).
Trans-Manchurian, Russia-China
This branch of the Trans-Siberian travels from Moscow to Beijing,
giving you the best of both the Russian and Chinese worlds. (rzd.ru)
California Zephyr, USA
FOOD & TRAVEL 7
Enjoy unforgettable views of Chicago, the Great Lakes, the Rockies, the
Sierra Nevada and San Francisco’s Golden Gate (amtrak.com).
Hiram Bingham, Peru
This luxury train runs from Cuzco through the Andes to Machu Picchu
or Ollantaytambo via the Sacred Valley (orient-express.com).
Le Train Bleu, Senegal-Mali
A weekly trip from Dakar to Bamako across West Africa with its savannah,
jungles and wide rivers; for serious adventurers only (00 221 849 46 46).
Trinighellu, Corsica
Beloved by hikers, this little train links Ajaccio to Calvi or Bastia through
the wild mountains of central Corsica (corsica.net).
Panarail, Panama
This train follows the famous canal, cutting through a dense forest
known for its beautiful flora and fauna (panarail.com).
Resources
Seat61.com is the online reference you need for train, tracks and
timetables. Exhaustive, detailed and up-to-date information on train
journeys all around the world.
Further reading
Murder on the Orient Express (HarperCollins, £6.99). Agatha
Christie seemed to have a fondness for trains – she also wrote The
Mystery of the Blue Train and 4.50 from Paddington.
The Great Railway Bazaar (Penguin, £9.99). Paul Theroux captures
the essence and romance of railway travel and brings back colourful
anecdotes from his eventful journey through Asia.
8 FOOD & TRAVEL
Why go For the fantastic roof terrace, chic minimalist rooms and gourmet
cuisine, all minutes away from the attractions of the old town.
What to take A swim suit and shades, to cool off in the hotel’s infinity
pool, and comfortable shoes: Barcelona’s medieval streets, leafy parks,
architectural highlights and beaches are best explored on foot.
Who to bring A design aficionado in need of a city break.
Best room The loft suite has wonderful views over the old town,
from the Barrio Gótico and the cathedral to Montjuïc Park. With huge
rooms, a separate bathroom and shower room, it comes with a handy
Barcelona guidebook written by the hotel owner.
Details Grand Hotel Central, Via layetana 30, Barcelona (00 34 93
295 7900; grandhotelcentral.com). Double from £148.
Five unmissable things to do
Take a stroll in Gaudí’s enchanting Park Güell. Perched on one of
the city’s hills, it’s a magical place. Go early in the morning to have
the famous serpentine mosaic benches to yourself.
Relax on Barceloneta Beach before tucking into paella or a huge
seafood platter on one of the terraces facing the harbour.
Marvel at the human statues on the famous las Ramblas avenue
before getting lost among the fresh fruit and glittering seafood stalls
of la Boqueria, Barcelona’s biggest market.
Take the cable car up Montjuïc hill and explore the 18th-century
fortress and Juan Miró museum, filled with colourful paintings.
Visit the Sagrada Familia, Gaudí’s unfinished but striking cathedral,
and climb the narrow stone steps of the towering spires for great views.

Food & Travel magazine
NEW ZEALAND
WELLINGTON
OHTEL
Located in Wellington’s Oriental Bay, this
boutique hotel brings urban chic to the city.
Behind the bold, contemporary exterior, the
ten rooms have king-size beds and stunning
bathrooms. Large glass panels reveal two-
person baths and oversized showers, and
many of the rooms have decks overlooking
Waitangi Park and the harbour. Owner and
former architect Alan has furnished the hotel
with his impressive collection of chairs, tables
and clocks, all from the 1950s and 1960s.
Details: Double from £180, including
breakfast (00 64 4 803 0600; ohtel.com).
UK
LIVERPOOL
HARD DAYS NIGHT HOTEL
Hard Days Night Hotel celebrates the Fab
Four within a Grade II listed building. Thankfully,
it is less about tacky memorabilia and more
about stylish references – guests can sip a
Strawberry Fields cocktail in the Bar Four.
Original photographs and artwork appear
Photography by Ellie Laycock (Hard Days Night Hotel) and Emil Buzatov (Relais Borgo Santo Pietro)
throughout and the guest rooms boast a
modern decor inspired by the Beatlemania
era. Highlights include The Lennon Suite,
complete with a white grand piano.
Details: Double from £170, with breakfast
(0151 236 1964; harddaysnighthotel.com).
MALAWI
LAKE MALAWI
PUMULANI
Opening this month on the shores of
Lake Malawi, Pumulani promises to offer a
charming African lodge in the most tranquil of
locations. The ten luxury villas have elegant
interiors and traditional thatched roofs; their
balconies provide beautiful views over the
lake. Relax on the secluded beach or jump
aboard a dhow cruise. Diving and snorkelling
enthusiasts will be pleased to find that Lake
Malawi’s crystal clear waters are home to
thousands of species of fish.
Details: Villa from £217 per person, per
night – full board, including road transfers
(00 260 216 246 090; pumulani.com).
hotels
newcomers
Léa Teuscher checks out the latest hotel
openings in the UK and around the world
JAMAICA
PORT ANTONIO
GEEJAM
Nestling between the Blue Mountains and
Jamaica’s golden beaches, Geejam provides
the perfect base from which to swim and
snorkel in the sparkling clear waters, or
spend sun-soaked days taking it very easy.
Originally established as a recording studio,
it is now a private resort comprising of three
cabins, a suite and a self contained villa. Set
amongst banana trees and lush vegetation,
all rooms come with fantastic views over the
blue-green Caribbean Sea and are only
minutes away from the idyllic Frenchman’s
Cove. The spa, swimming pool and bar
offer stylish places in which to relax, whilst
the resort’s restaurant serves up innovative
FROM TOP: PUMULANI ON dishes that fuse traditional West Indian spices
LAKE MALAWI; JAMAICA’S and ingredients with Japanese recipes.
SUN-SOAKED RESORT; DINING
Details: Double room from £215, including
ROOM AT HARD DAYS NIGHT
HOTEL; TUSCAN CHARM IN
breakfast (01895 450731; geejamhotel.com).
CORTONA. BOTTOM: OHTEL
IN WELLINGTON
ITALY
CORTONA
RELAIS BORGO SANTO PIETRO
This charming 13th-century Tuscan villa oozes
character. With only seven rooms, Relais
Borgo Santo Pietro feels very intimate, has
been lovingly restored and is furnished with
antiques. The bedrooms are elegant; walls
are painted with warm Tuscan ochres and
reds. After dipping your toes in the swimming
pool, with a glass of Chianti in hand, enjoy a
leisurely lunch on the terrace. Set amongst
13 acres of tranquil countryside, the Relais
also has an orchard and organic gardens,
which provide fruit and vegetables for the
restaurant. The cities of Siena and Florence
are less than an hour’s drive away.
Details: Double room and breakfast from £260
(00 39 0575 612402; borgosanpietro.com).
FOOD & TRAVEL 15
Isle be there
Léa
LéaTeuscher
Teuscherscours
scourswild
wildnorthern
northernseas
seasand
andturquoise
turquoiseMediterranean
Mediterraneanwaters
watersininsearch
searchofof
T
here is no need to travel as far as the Pacific or the Caribbean them just a bit harder to reach; their remoteness turns them into
to enjoy island life. Europe has plenty to offer budding Robinson exotic, relatively unexplored specks of land. Here we hop from volcanic
Crusoes – and we’re not talking about the usual suspects such rocks to flat sandbanks in search of the best European island retreats.
as Ibiza, Sardinia or Corfu. The Mediterranean and the North Sea Some you might have discovered for yourself already, others are just a
are peppered with thousands of islands, many of which are worth vague dot on a map, while the rest may be entirely unfamiliar. However,
visiting for their sandy beaches, unspoilt natural beauty and welcoming with their unique history, gourmet specialities and fantastic landscapes,
locals. With tales of pirates, castaways and hermits, islands have the these islands are not just drops in the ocean. Our selection also offers
ability to capture our imagination. Their geographical isolation makes an enticing list of activities, choose your destination and sail away.
FRANCE Belle-Ile-en-Mer TURKEY Sövalye
The largest of Brittany’s islands, Belle-Ile-en-Mer has seduced pirates This peaceful retreat lies in the Gulf of Göcek and is the least visited
and painters alike. Boasting a contrasting landscape of dangerously of the bay’s 12 beautiful islands. Located just a short boat ride
steep cliffs and tranquil stretches of sand, the best way to take in the away from bustling Fethiye harbour, it is sparsely inhabited with only
stunning scenery is to walk along part of the 100-kilometre-long coastal a handful of holiday homes scattered among the pomegranate and
path that runs around the island, stopping at secluded beaches for jasmine trees. Sövalye, meaning ‘knight’ in Turkish, was named after a
picnics along the way. Follow in the footsteps of Monet and visit the group of renegade crusaders who turned pirates and used the island as
needles of Port Coton – the rock formations on the southern shore were a base during the Middle Ages. The island’s pine forests and turquoise
painted by the artist during his visit in 1886. Hidden behind a dune coves hide bountiful historical treasures – picnic in the remains of
covered with wild roses is Port de Donnant’s beach, a great spot for a Crusader castle built by the Knights of St John, or swim in the
bodyboarding. Stop for a delicious crab galette, sweet crêpes and a surrounding crystal clear waters and glance down at traces of earlier
glass of cider in the shadow of the star-shaped Vauban citadel at Le settlements, from submerged Roman walls and churches to ancient
Palais, the island’s capital. Swim at the beautiful Grands Sables, admire amphoraes (clay pots). There are no cars or even roads, just simple
the dramatic rocks at Pointe des Poulains or climb the Grand Phare tracks through the forest leading to pretty, bougainvillea-clad villas.
(great lighthouse) for views over the south Breton coast, before dining The only restaurant on Sövalye, the Sunset Café, is perched on a cliff at
on a seafood platter in the harbour town of Sauzon. the tip of the island. Dine here and choose from dozens of delicious
Tourist information 00 33 2 99 28 44 30; brittanytourism.com meze and fresh salads.
Where to stay Hotel Atlantique (00 33 2 97 31 80 11; Tourist information 020 7839 7778; gototurkey.co.uk
hotel-atlantique.com) in Le Palais has lovely nautical-themed rooms Where to stay Ece Saray (00 90 252 612 50 05; ecesaray.net/eng)
overlooking the quaint harbour. is a small luxury hotel on the water’s edge with a private beach.
How to get there Fly to Nantes or Lorient (airfrance.fr) and take the How to get there Fly to Dalaman airport – there are plenty of charter
local train via Auray to Quiberon harbour (3 hours or 1 hour 15 minutes flights scheduled from London Gatwick and Manchester. Then take
respectively) where you can catch a ferry to the island – the journey the Havas shuttle to Fethiye (70 minutes). The island is a 20-minute
takes 50 minutes and departs every half an hour during peak season. water taxi ride from Fethiye harbour.
86 food & travel
going places
Between the Alps and Lake Geneva, Switzerland’s dairy
euroeatroute
region produces world-famous cheese and chocolate
La Gruyère
A
n Alpine paradise of lakes, lush meadows and white are traditionally made. Step into the historical fromagerie, built
summits, La Gruyère region is known for its two in 1686 and made of tavillon (wooden shingles), for a crash
namesakes: the AOC (protected designation of origin) course in cheese-making. The rustic chalet decor and wooden
Gruyère cheese and the medieval hilltop village of Gruyères. tools hanging from the walls add to this authentic diversion.
Stroll along this small town’s picturesque high street, past Head west to the town of Bulle and sample a very special
attractive Swiss town houses and quaint facades, towards type of fondue. The popular La Cabriolle restaurant is known
the quaint fairytale castle. Climb up a paved winding street for its delicious Lévanchy goats’ cheese fondue, served with
to the town’s main square, where the tables and chairs of baked potatoes and grapes. This lesser-known local
numerous cafés gather around a pretty fountain. You can spot
the restaurant Hôtel de Ville’s window boxes, overflowing with
bright red geraniums, from miles away. This rustic inn serves
Gourmet stops
traditional raclettes, platters of delicious La Borne smoked ham
and dried sausages, as well as the local fish dish, lake trout La Cabriolle
baked in a white wine sauce. Below Gruyères, at the foot of the (00 41 26 912 2237; lacabriolle.ch)
hill, is La Maison du Gruyère. This show dairy is the place to Cailler Chocolate Factory
learn the secrets of Gruyère cheese-making. Wander through (00 41 26 921 5151; cailler.ch)
the interactive exhibition before watching young master cheese- Fromagerie d’Alpage Moléson
makers, Jacques and Nicolas Ecoffey and their team, at work (00 41 26 921 1044;
– they produce up to 48 wheels of Gruyère a day. Stock up on fromagerie-alpage.ch)
Hôtel de Ville
cheese and local specialities at the delicatessen, or lunch on
quiche and fondue in the restaurant. (00 41 26 921 2424; hoteldeville.ch)
You could also hike up – or perhaps take the cable car if
you’ve just feasted on a huge pot of fondue – the Moléson
La Maison du Gruyère
(00 41 26 921 8400;
for jaw-dropping views over the whole region. At 2002 metres
high the summit boasts an astronomic observatory and
lamaisondugruyere.ch)
Philipona Confectionery
panoramic restaurant. On a clear day you can see most of the (00 41 26 912 7152)
French-speaking cantons of Switzerland, from Lake Geneva Pinte des Mossettes
THIS PICTURE AND BELOW:
VIEWS FROM THE WATER’S
ten travel
of thestrap
best
and Mont Blanc to the Jura mountains and Three Lakes (00 41 26 927 2097)
EDGE AT VILLA LAKE COMO region. On your way down, make sure you stop at the summer Rime Bakery
IN LOMBARDIA fromagerie d'alpage, where fresh cheeses, such as sérac, (00 41 26 921 1564)
food & travel 21
Léa Teuscher scours
Italy and its islands
in search of stunning
panoramas – from
medieval farmhouses
in Tuscany and
classical lake villas in
Como, to Norman
towers in Puglia
BellaVista
La
W LOMBARDIA
hat could be more relaxing than spending your summer
holiday lounging by a pool, surveying the blue skies, olive
Villa Lake Como
groves and lemon trees? Or relaxing on your private terrace,
a glass of wine in hand, watching boats sail the turquoise Tyrrhenian Perched on the edge of Lake Como, this 19th-century villa is perfectly
Sea? A truly spectacular view transforms any dwelling into an enchanted
palace, broadening the horizon and making an ordinary moment
located at the junction of the Lombardian lake’s three branches. With
stunning views over the water to the surrounding steep mountains, the
exceptional. The sunset becomes a dramatic light show; a walk to the house is only a ten-minute drive from the town of Bellagio, known for
pool becomes another opportunity to marvel at the beautiful landscape. its waterfront of elegant neoclassical villas. Surrounded by a huge park
And where else than in Italy should you find the most wonderful villas and manicured lawns, the property also has its own private swimming
with a view? These Italian retreats come in a variety shapes and forms, pool. Its ochre façade hides traditional interiors, complete with a grand
but all will delight with their postcard-perfect views. Here’s our selection entrance hall, marble fireplace, frescoed ceilings and chandeliers.
of the some of the best villas, and views, that Italy has to offer. Head to the sun terrace with a glass of Lombardian Valtellina wine
to pass a reflective afternoon by the lake. You could also take in the
views from one of the small boats that criss-cross the lake, visit the
nearby peaceful mountain villages or go shopping and sightseeing
in the lively city of Como.
Eat in: Bellagio’s street market is a lovely place for a spot of food
shopping. Alternatively, a chef service and private cookery lessons can
be organised at the villa.
Eat out: Nearby Trattoria da Anna (00 39 03195 1020) is a local
favourite serving delicious fish dishes. Or, in Bellagio town, feast on
goat’s cheese ravioli, hazelnut risotto, and excellent fish and seafood
on Ristorante Barchetta’s (00 39 03195 1389) lovely terrace.
Details: Sleeps 14 people (seven double bedrooms all with
en suite bathrooms) from £9,240 per week including nine-hours of
maid service (020 7873 2111; thevillabook.com). Nearest airport:
Milan Malpensa, 90km.
FOOD & TRAVEL 85
short breaks
opposite: Dusk at
belle-ile-en-mer’s
harbour. right anD
below: olD town anD
surrounDing waters
of korcula
Europe’s
Europe’slesser-known
lesser-knownislands,
islands,discovering
discoveringhidden
hiddenAdriatic
Adriaticpearls
pearlsand
andwind-swept
wind-sweptBaltic
Balticbeauties
beauties
CROATIA Korcula
Korcula’s fortified town is a pleasure to explore – wander
the narrow cobbled streets passing honey-coloured
stone buildings with ornate Venetian facades. Climb
to the village of Zrnovo and you’ll be rewarded with
great views. Lumbarda, a fishing village surrounded by
vineyards, is a perfect stop for lunch. Relax on the nearby sandy
beaches of Vela Przina and Bilin Zal, and spend an afternoon
visiting the picturesque village of Pupnat, where the tall
cypress trees give shade to ancient churches. If you
fancy a dip, try the bays of Vaja and Samograd
or hop on a boat to Vrnik, a tiny inhabited
island with secluded swimming spots.
Tourist information
020 8563 7979; croatia.hr
Where to stay Simple yet stylish, the
Photography by tourismbretagne-photos.com; Croatian National Tourist Office
recently renovated Hotel Marko Polo
(00 385 20 726 336; korcula-hotels.com) has views
over Korcula town; take sailing lessons or go windsurfing.
How to get there Fly to either Dubrovnik or Split
(croatiaairlines.com) and take the ferry (2 hours 30
minutes), or the faster catamaran (2 hours) to Korcula
with Jadrolinija (jadrolinija.hr).
food & travel 41
 Supp p01 Cover v2 F+T Oct06
INDIA
TA S T E T H E E X P E R I E N C E – E X P E R I E N C E T H E TA S T E
Regional
recipes
Mind
body
spirit
Relaxing retreats
Gujarat
A hidden gem
M A G A
ZONE
MASALA
Once worth more than gold, spices are at the heart of
Indian cuisine. Already mastered by the Ayurveda sages,
the blending of spices – masala in Hindi – lies in the
ancient knowledge of their delicate culinary, preservative
and medicinal properties. From ajwain to zedoary,
Léa Teuscher strolls along the spice trail
AJWAIN SEEDS Produced by a herb related to cumin and parsley,
these tiny seeds have a flavour that resembles both thyme and
liquorice. Used whole to flavour breads, lentils and pulses in northern
India, they are known to aid digestion and have antiseptic properties.
ASAFOETIDA Known as ‘divine food’ by the Persians – but called
the ‘Devil’s faeces’ in French – this dried resin from the stem of a
giant fennel grows in Iran, Afghanistan and Kashmir. Its ammoniac
smell becomes pleasantly garlicky on cooking, and it is commonly
used in the pickles and pulse dishes of Southern India. It is said to
alleviate asthma and bronchitis, and to counteract flatulence.
CARAWAY SEEDS Often confused with cumin seeds, and also
know as ‘Persian cumin,’ these anise-tasting seeds are mostly used
to flavour breads. Used by the Egyptians, Greeks and Romans to
make love potions, they are also more prosaically said to relieve colic
and indigestion.
CARDAMOM The Tales from the Thousand and One Nights raved
about the aphrodisiac qualities of this expensive spice, but cadamom
also enhances the rich meat dishes of the northern Mughal cuisine
and is an essential flavour in chai (see p14-17). Mostly grown on the
Malabar coast of Kerala, it is said to freshen breath and combat
nausea, headaches, fevers, coughs, asthma, piles and eye diseases.
CINNAMON This woody spice is made from the soft inner bark of
the Sri Lankan cinnamon tree, dried and rolled into tight quills. Mainly
used to flavour pilaf rice, puddings and meat curries, cinnamon
can also be produced as oil, which is used to treat toothache,
headaches and impotence.
58 FOOD & TRAVEL
tea
N
o travel in India is complete without the lively ‘Garam chai! Garam
chai!’ – ‘Hot tea! Hot tea!’ – cries of the street vendors at every
street corner and train station. Yet tea growing was only
introduced in India in the 1830s, with the help of British colonists and
Chinese seeds. Generally plucked from March to October, each Indian
tea-growing area – Darjeeling, Assam and Nilgiri – produces distinctive
teas with unique flavours and colours.
Assam
The Assam region, which stretches from the Himalayas down to the
Bay of Bengal, produces a tea famous for its robust taste and its deep
red infusions. Its flecked brown and gold leaves, also known as
‘orange’ when dried, are perfect as breakfast or morning teas. The
second flush Assam is the best of the season and when brewed gives
a dark red liquor and a strong malty taste. Assam has its own native
variety of tea, Camellia sinensis var. assamica, and also produces a
light and sweet-tasting Assam Green tea.
Darjeeling
The ‘Champagne of Teas,’ Darjeeling is grown on the foothills of
the Himalayas, on slopes usually up to 60 or 70 degrees. Its delicate
aroma and light colour make it ideal for dinner or afternoon tea. First
flush Darjeelings, picked in April after the leaves have enjoyed the
intense sunshine and cold air of the Himalayan spring, fetch sky-
high prices at auction thanks to their light, but aromatic, flavour.
Second flush Darjeelings, picked between May and June, produce
excellent fruitier and darker teas, while Darjeeling Green is a rare and
delicate tea similar to Japanese Sencha.
Nilgiri
Situated in southern India, Nilgiri’s ‘Blue Mountains’ produce some of
the world’s finest light black teas. The tea plants are grown on more
than 37,000 hectares of the high hilly plateau, and is bright amber in
colour and refreshing in taste. Mainly used for blending, Nilgiri teas
never taste harsh, but they are dark and intensely aromatic. ‘Frost tea’,
one of the most rare teas of the region, is produced immediately after
the coldest nights of January.
Tea is an integral part of Indian life, yet tea growing was only
introduced there in the 1830s. Léa Teuscher checks out the three
CHAII
main growing areas and the distinctive characteristics of their tea
PHOTOGRAPHY BY GARY LATHAM
A
STORY
TECHNICALITIES
All teas come from the leaves of the plant Camellia sinensis. Tea is
traditionally classified based on the degree or period of fermentation
(or oxidation) that the leaves have undergone:
White tea – no oxidation.
Green tea – minimal oxidation process, stopped with steam or
dry cooking.
Oolong – two to three days’ oxidation process.
Black tea – completely oxidised.
Pu-erh – when compressed, undergoes a second, microbial
fermentation during the aging process. Can be aged for many years
to improve its flavour.
Yellow tea – processed like green tea, but with a slower drying phase.
Kukicha – made from twigs and old leaves pruned from the tea
plant during its dormant season and dry-roasted over a fire.
Flushes are the freshly picked tea leaves, comprising only the bud
and the first two leaves of the growing tea shoot (the younger the leaf,
the more flavourful the tea). In regions such as Darjeeling, the first flush
of growth after winter is often more subtle and delicate in its flavour.
Second flush and autumnal teas tend to be stronger and more
colourful, especially in the lower altitude regions such as Assam.
Dust is the smallest grade of tea and is prized for its quick
extraction. It is commonly used in teabags. The higher it is grown,
the thinner a tea’s body and the more concentrated its flavour.
Each bush on a Darjeeling estate must be hand-plucked every four
to eight days throughout the growing season. And every kilogram
consists of over 20,000 individual shoots – about half as many are
required for the same weight of tea produced from the large-leaf
Assam tea bush. India produces mostly black teas, but a small
amount of green tea is produced mainly for the Afghanistan market.
16 FOOD & TRAVEL
17/8/06 20:46 Page 1
Z I N E
CLOVES These strong-flavoured, dark, dried flower buds are used
sparingly to infuse rice, preserves and curries. Renowned for their
medicinal properties, cloves are also commonly used to treat fever,
dyspepsia and spleen, kidney, stomach and intestinal disorders. Oil
of cloves is widely used to treat toothache in dental emergencies.
CORIANDER SEEDS Related to parsley and carrot, these lemony
and peppery seeds are often used with yoghurt in raita sauce or lassi
drinks. They are prescribed for constipation, insomnia and pregnant
women, while the leaves are said to remove heat from the system.
CUMIN An essential element of most masalas, cumin seeds are also
often fried in hot oil to begin a curry, or sprinkled on naan, dhal or
rice. They are said to treat biliousness, indigestion, colds and fever.
DILL SEEDS Used in pickling solutions and fish dishes, dill seeds
were believed to have magic power during medieval times. According
to the Ayurveda, they help to relieve gas, colic and hiccups and to
control diarrhoea.
FENNEL SEEDS This bitter curry-like spice, the seed of a leafy
plant, is a key ingredient in the vegetarian cuisine of South India and
is commonly used to flavour pickles and chutneys. Fennel seeds help
digestion, calm inflamed and tired eyes when boiled in water and are
thought to prevent gallstones.
FENUGREEK Also called methi, fenugreek is frequently used in
South Indian chutneys and is said to improve the digestive, respiratory
and nervous systems. Fenugreek seed paste is used to purify the skin
and to prevent premature hair loss if used as a shampoo.
MASALA CHAI – SPICED TEA
In India, masala chai is more popular than coffee. It’s as diverse as
the regions and households of India and there is no fixed recipe or
preparation method. Nevertheless, this spiced tea has four basic
components: a strong black tea (usually Assam), so that the
various spices and sweeteners do not overpower it, a sweetener
(plain white sugar, molasses or honey), milk or cream and a variety
of spices. Cardamom, cinnamon, ginger, peppercorn and cloves
are the most commonly used, but nutmeg, chocolate, cocoa,
vanilla or liquorice are also popular. To make your own masala chai,
add milk, water, sugar, the spices and tea, bring to the boil, then
simmer for a few minutes. Strain and serve.
TEA PROPERTIES
One of the richest sources of antioxidants, tea helps promote a
healthy heart, prevent cancer, and help combat most diseases like
diabetes, tumours, ulcers, inflammations, intestinal problems, tooth
decay and many more common ailments. It is also rich in vitamins
and minerals: 650ml of tea provides over half of the total intake of
dietary flavonoids; nearly 16 per cent of the daily requirement of
calcium; almost ten per cent of the daily requirement of zinc; over
ten per cent of the folic acid need; and around nine per cent, 25
per cent and six per cent of vitamins B1, B2 and B6 respectively.
TEA TIME
In legend There are two stories about the discovery of tea. In the first,
the second emperor of China, Shen Nung, who lived in the third
millennium BC, is said to discover tea when leaves of the plant Camellia
sinensis drift into his cup of hot water. In the second, the Indian Prince
Bodhi-Dharma goes to China to preach Buddhism, vowing never to fall
asleep during seven years of prayer and meditation. Becoming
overcome with drowsiness after five years, he picks and chews some
nearby leaves, which, being from a tea tree, help keep him awake.
AD 350 A Chinese dictionary makes reference to tea.
c. 780 A Chinese author writes the first book on tea.
618-907 Under the Tang Dynasty, tea is widely drunk among the upper
classes of China, popular for its flavour and medicinal qualities.
1610 Dutch traders ship the first consignment of tea from China to
Holland. Tea becomes fashionable in continental western Europe.
1657 Tea finally reaches Britain. It is sold as a new kind of health
beverage at Garway’s Coffee House in London.
1662 Charles II takes a tea-addict bride, Catherine of Braganza from
Portugal, and tea becomes so chic that alcohol consumption declines.
1664 The East India Company begins to import tea from China into
Britain, but high taxes make it expensive for the working classes. Tea
smuggling becomes rife.
1706 Thomas Twining begins selling tea in the Strand, London.
1773 The Boston Tea Party: American colonists board East India
Company ships in Boston harbour and empty hundreds of chests of
tea into the harbour in protest at British tea taxes. The incident is
instrumental in triggering the American War of Independence.
1784 William Pitt the Younger’s government slashes taxes on tea in
Britain, which now becomes widely affordable.
1823 While visiting Assam, a Major Robert Bruce finds an indigenous
tea plant. But it is not until 1834 that a botanist in the Botanical Gardens
at Calcutta identifies the plant as a true tea plant.
1835 The East India Company starts the first tea plantations in Assam,
based both on plants grown from Chinese seed and indigenous tea
plants. Within a few years the plantations are selling the first tea from
Indian soil. A small amount is sent to England and sells well due to its
novelty. The Indian tea industry is born and tea is grown in other places,
including Darjeeling. The rich, malty flavour of Indian tea becomes
popular with the British.
1840 Anna, the 7th Duchess of Bedford, introduces the refined ritual of
afternoon tea to the upper classes.
1864 Britain’s first tearoom is opened in London.
1904 Iced tea is popularised at the St Louis World Fair, USA.
1908 New York tea importer Thomas Sullivan inadvertently invents tea
bags when he sends tea to clients in small silk bags, which they
mistakenly drop in their teapots.
2006 India has 39,700 tea estates, a tea-producing workforce of more
than a million people, and is the largest producer of tea in the world.
Inside knowledge
City guides to Delhi
Kolkata and Chennai
GINGER This pungent rhizome was used by Ayurvedics to preserve
food, as a digestive aid and as a spiritual and physical cleanser.
Excellent for counteracting flatulence, and therefore frequently used
with lentils and cauliflower, ginger is reputed to cure both anaemia
and liver complaints.
KOKUM The dried rind of the purpled fresh kokum fruit, kokum is
used in the Gujarat, Maharshtra and Kerala regions on the West
coast. Often added to coconut-based sauces, it gives a pinkish taint
to dishes, and acts as a cooling agent for the body.
MUSTARD SEEDS Excellent preservative common in pickling
solutions, mustard seeds are sometimes used as a thickener in
Southern and Bengali dishes. They are known to soothe arthritic pain.
NIGELLA SEEDS These jet-black seeds from a plant related to
love-in-a-mist, have a pleasant nutty flavour and are often sprinkled
on breads. They are said to be an insect repellent, diuretic, and a
cure for scorpion stings.
PEPPER Grown on the southern Malabar coast, black pepper was
referred to as ‘black gold’ and used as a form of commodity. It is said
to burn toxins in the body, as well as relieve respiratory congestion
and digestive ailments.
POPPY SEEDS These seeds are said to have been used in ancient
times by Olympic athletes – to provide them with an instant burst of
energy. They are generally mixed with other spices to act as a
thickening agent for sauces or sprinkled whole over bread. They are
further thought to cure dysentery.
Each bush on a Darjeeling estate must be hand-plucked every four to eight days
during the growing season. Every kilogram consists of over 20,000 individual shoots
Great
Making tracks
train
journeys
Chill
stations
High life above
the heat
A-Z of
Spices
SAFFRON The expensive dried orange stamens of purple crocus,
saffron is widely used in puddings such as kheer, in northern meat
dishes and to add colour to rice for pilaf or biriyani. An aphrodisiac
when dissolved in milk, it is also said to cure respiratory congestion,
skin diseases and digestive disorders.
TAMARIND A key ingredient in Worcester and HP sauces, this
‘Indian date’ is also used as a souring agent in Indian sauces and
soups. When boiled in water and sweetened, tamarind is said to cool
fever and relieve the effects of alcohol. Used to increase appetite and
digestion, it has a mild laxative effect.
TURMERIC This ginger-like root, used for its golden colour as much
as its earthy flavour, is frequently added to dhals, various tomato-
based dishes and fish marinades. It is said to slow bleeding and
improve the complexion. Charred turmeric was once used to keep
evil spirits at bay.
ZEDOARY Also known as ‘mango ginger’, zedoary has a strong,
and slightly bitter flavour similar to green mango. Ground with others
spices to make a paste, it is a blood purifier and a healing agent
for the skin.
Further reading
Spice Magic, An Indian Culinary Adventure (Development
Dynamics, £12.99). An authentic and comprehensive cookbook
by Pinky Lilani.
The Mistress of Spices (Black Swan, £7.99). A spiced-up
Bollywood romance by Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni, turned into a film
by Paul Mayeda Berges.
FOOD & TRAVEL
FOOD & TRAVEL
recipes
L
ittle bowls of beaches, temple spires on steep hills, white baroque
churches, vibrant markets and magical 11th-century step-
wells…all are just waiting to be sampled by the visitor to Gujarat.
After centuries of trade with Arabs, Persians, East Africans, Chinese,
Indonesians and Portuguese, the only rare foreign variety here is the
European tourist, who tends to flock to popular neighbouring Rajasthan.
Gujarat, in the north-west of India on the Pakistan border, is one of the
most prosperous states in India – Gujaratis are two and a half times
wealthier than the average Indian. It’s a land of decaying palaces and
bright bougainvillea, where camel-carts overtake multicoloured tuk-tuks
and holy cows race with them on the highway. On this dry earth juicy
mangos, soft cotton and shiny Shiva temples grow, while pink
flamingos invade the salty marshes. People drink spicy tea straight out
of saucers, and meat-eaters are as scarce as water. Women wrap
themselves in five metres of fabric; men sport golden earrings bigger
than their wives’, and children wear a black kohl line under their eyes.
Things are usually less crowded down on the palm-fringed island of
Diu, off the southern coast, but today it’s party time in the fishing village
of Vanakbara. The streets are packed; rainbows of saris and lucky
ashoka palm leaves hang between the whitewashed buildings. All the
boats are out of the water, and it’s so busy it’s hard to glimpse the
Arabian Sea between the drying wooden vessels. Chotila and
Chamunda, the twin lion-riding warrior goddesses, famed for their
extraordinary prowess and victories over men, are being blessed by a
beautifully orange female priest in a brand new temple.
30 FOOD & TRAVEL
destinations
It’s said to be as old as creation, built by the Moon God himself. The
shrine is revered as one of 12 which are particularly associated with the
worship of Shiva. It’s a high security temple, 17 times destroyed, each
time rebuilt. The cycle of pillage and reconstruction lasted for seven
centuries, culminating in 1026, when 50,000 people died trying to
59
117 protect Somnath from the Afghan warlord Mohammed of Ghazni.
Heading inland past peanut fields and red-brick factories brings you
deep into the southern region of Saurashtra and keshar mango country.
The refreshing green-orange fruits are used in delicious desserts (like
the mango fool, aamras) or lassis. Popular in a variety of pickles, sour
green mangos are seasoned with garlic, chillies, molasses and spices
like aniseed, mustard and fenugreek. At the heart of the region, the
ancient fortified city of
Junagadh, in the shadow of
the Gilnar hill, lies quaint and
peaceful, perhaps still under
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel Radhika Resort, Diu (00 91 2875 252553;
radhikaresort.com). Situated next to Nagoa Beach, this offers
clean and well-maintained rooms in villas arranged around a
central swimming pool. Brightly-lit palm trees, kitsch statues and
Christmas lights complete the setting. Excellent service and
food. Double rooms from INR 1750.
Orchard Palace, Palace Road, Gondal (00 91 2825 220002).
This seven-room royal guesthouse will make you feel like one
of the maharaja’s very special guests. A light and airy mansion
surrounded by hundreds of peacocks, the palace recalls the Raj
era. Welcoming staff, good service, and excellent food prepared
by the maharaja’s personal chef. Double rooms from INR 5000,
including meals and sightseeing.
Nilambag Palace, Bhavnagar (00 91 2782 424241;
nilambagpalace.com). A grand 19th-century palace, Nilambag
is full of antique teak furniture, mounted trophies and beautiful
wood carvings. Twenty-six modern rooms, huge garden,
splendid dining hall and fine outdoor restaurant. Double rooms
from INR 3500.
Rann Riders, Dasada, Surendranagar (00 91 2757 280257;
rannriders.com). Located on the border of the Little Rann of
Kutch, Rann Riders consists of round huts beautifully decorated
by local artisans to resemble an authentic Kutch village, albeit
with modern fixtures. Surrounded by herb gardens and fields,
this is a good base to explore the wildlife and tribal culture of
this distinctive, arid region. Double rooms from INR 3600, meals
and jeep safari included.
Hotel Cama Park Plaza, Ahmedabad (00 91 7925 601234).
This city landmark boasts pretty gardens and great views of
the Sabarmati river. The recently renovated rooms are elegant,
spacious and comfortable. A luxury hotel with good service.
Double rooms with breakfast from INR 3910.
32 FOOD & TRAVEL
recipes
34 FOOD & TRAVEL
17
STATE OF
destinations
INDEPENDENCE
Gujarat may not be as well known as
neighbouring Rajasthan, but Léa Teuscher
finds the birthplace of Gandhi is a colourful
and picturesque state, full of dramatic sights
and home to a distinctive vegetarian cuisine
Photography by Natalie Pecht
TRAVEL INFORMATION
Gujarat is best visited between
October and April, when days are
not too hot (25-35ºC) and nights
are dry and cool. In summer
temperatures easily reach 45ºC.
Good times to visit include Makar
Sankranti (13-15 January), the
Hindu kite festival, or Navratri
(September 23-October 1):
nine nights of dancing in honour
of the mother goddess. Currency
is the Indian rupee, £1=INR 85.
GETTING THERE
Jet Airways (020 8970 1525;
jetairways.com) flies from London
to Ahmedabad via Mumbai for £500
return plus taxes.
Air India (020 8560 9996;
airindia.com) flies direct from London
to Ahmedabad from £441.30 return,
taxes included.
RESOURCES
Indian Tourist Board
(020 7437 3677; india-tourism.com).
Gujarat Tourism (00 91 79
PREVIOUS PAGE AND
2322202; gujarattourism.com). OPPOSITE: THE JAIN
TEMPLES, PALITANA.
CLOCKWISE FROM
From the tiny Shiva temple nestled in between the ragged cliffs, TOP LEFT: A QUIET
MOMENT IN A SHIVA
where worshippers have to brave the waves, to the old green mosque TEMPLE; MOSQUE IN
in Diu old town, Divechis are spoilt for choice; they even have a OLD FORT, JUNAGADH;
CAMEL AT SOMNATH;
Catholic option. The baroque façade of the 17th-century St Paul RABARI TRIBESMAN;
STEP INTO THIS SHIVA
Church, the most elaborate of all Portuguese churches in India, with its TEMPLE; COLOURFUL
white volutes and shell motifs, is not as out-of-place as it first appears. RABARI EMBROIDERY
Diu was Portuguese for more than 400 years, and only became a union
territory of India in 1961. Divechis people can still apply for Portuguese
passports, although very few still speak Portuguese.
Bollywood directors (Diu is only a couple of hours from Mumbai) have
fallen in love with the imposing Diu fort; the exotic European-style
fortifications, complete with cannons and pirate tombstones, always
look good on camera. But behind the perfect setting, it is the relaxed
and simple life of the island that charms. Walking in the old town’s
narrow streets past pastel walls, admiring the abandoned havelis
(wealthy residences), it is possible to imagine a rich Lusitanian
merchant taking in the ocean view from his ornate balcony.
On Goghla beach, fishermen repair nets and sari-clad women jump
in the waves with their naked children. Dogs and chickens and ducks
and goats run around; cats are in fresh fish paradise. Only the cows
remain stoic, squeezing in the narrow shadows. The island is
intoxicating; indeed, it is the only place in Gujarat where you can drink
alcohol. Yet many will prefer a sip of the island’s sweet coconut juice.
Round the coast to the west, past salt pans, wading birds and palm
trees, is the famous temple at Somnath, near Veraval.
FOOD & TRAVEL 31
recipes
the influence of the born-again Buddhist king Ashoka, who converted
from tyrant to monk after he married an enlightened girl. Don’t miss the
remarkable Uparkot Fort which dominates the city.
A few kilometres east and the city of Gondal can also offer an CLOCKWISE FROM
enlightened ruler tale. Sri Bhagwat Sinhji, the local maharaja, installed TOP LEFT: BRIGHTLY
COLOURED RABARI
phone and railway networks and made female education compulsory EMBROIDERY; ST
PAUL CHURCH IN
decades before the creation of modern India. In the current maharaja’s DIU; INDOMITABLE
library, old volumes on the Imperial Visit of India and the history of the SOMNATH TEMPLE;
SARIS FOR SALE;
British Empire cohabit with the likes of Europe on 10 Dollars a Day and NAGOA BEACH, DIU;
SARIS FLOAT ABOVE
a Playboy anthology. The huge earthquake which struck Gujarat in THE STREET
2001, claiming more than 20,000 lives and injuring another 200,000,
left its mark on the 18th-century Naulakha palace, but you can still see
its collection of precious silver caskets, while vintage cars are on
display in the royal garages. Make time for a visit to the century-old
bhuvaneshwari ayurvedic pharmacy to check out herbal and natural
products, like the Medicated Hair Oil for ‘hair falling, headache, burning
eye, insomnia, and hair greying’.
Further east still, in the town of Palitana, you may well need a tonic
before you tackle the 3,000 steps leading to the white-spired temples
on Shatrunjaya Hill. White nuns run down the steps in the early
morning, while dolis toil under the weight of affluent Jain worshippers.
Undoubtedly symbolic of Jain wealth and power, Palitana’s 863 16th-
century Jain temples and their delicate carvings are also a tribute to the
Jain doctrine of non-violence and its gifted sculptors.
On the western coast, the Little Rann of Kutch is a national park, a
salt-marsh sanctuary for the Indian wild ass (khar). When we arrived the
villagers of Ambala were gathering around the well, hurrying to collect
water before sunset. You may enjoy the privilege of being invited into
the homes of the Rabari people, offered tea and smiles, and asked to
take pictures. Women showed us their delicate mirrored embroideries
with pride, while husbands rocked the baby’s cradle. A few fields away,
in the stark beauty of the desert plains, we saw wild pink flamingos
perched in the wetlands that were not so long ago the Arabian Sea.
In the north of the state lies Patan, where the unique and delicate
Rani-ki-Vav step-well was built as the female counterpart to the
Modhera Sun Temple 30 kilometres to the south. Erected in memory of
King Bhimdeva, it is less a giant mausoleum than a celebration of
woman power. On the seven-storey deep platforms and galleries,
Queen Udaymati ensured that the 800 detailed carvings represent
women on top: all around are towering goddesses, reading love letters
or drying their hair, looking down on men not even half their size.
Finally to Ahmedabad, a city as big as London, associated with
Gujarat’s most famous son – Mahatma Gandhi. Ahmedabad was the
home of the Indian Independence Movement, the beginning of the
defiant 1930 Salt March, and the place from which Gandhi
orchestrated the final struggle for India’s freedom. His spartan ashram
on the banks of the Sabarmati river is open to all, as was his house
during his lifetime. The maze of dusty medieval streets in the old town
and the cocktail of Hindu and Islamic architecture are captivating. After
a wander through the crowded bazaars, we headed to the Calico
museum and its collection of 17th-century textiles. Here you can see
the inside of a beautiful wooden haveli, and learn the story of Gujarat
through the fabrics that travelled the world: the
FOOD & TRAVEL 33
OFFER
SUBSCRIPTION
patterned patola weaves exported to Bali for Indonesian queens, the
hand-embroidered curtains sent to Portugal, the cottons shipped to
Egypt to wrap artefacts in tombs.
The tour ended with a memorable meal in the city’s most talked-
about restaurant, Vishala. Seated comfortably around huge thalis, we
watched as one waiter after another piled more and more food on our
dried banana leaves. Crisp khakra wafers and chapatti breads, rich
dals and local undhiyo (roasted sweet potatoes, beans and
F&T Front
aubergines), and delicious kadhi (split pea and yoghurt soup) were
finished off with khichadi, a rice hotchpotch with five kinds of lentils.
The shrikhand, a yoghurt dessert spiced with saffron, cardamom, nuts
cover of
and candied fruit, simply would not fit on the table.
Léa and Natalie travelled with the help of the Indian Tourist Board (020
October
2006
7437 3677; india-tourism.com) and Indus Tours (020 8901 7320;
industours.co.uk).
SUSCRIBE TODAY
AND GET
WHERE TO EAT
Vishala, Ahmedabad (00 91 7964 30357, vishalla.com). An
ideal place to experience Gujarat’s culinary traditions, Vishala
14 ISSUES
encompasses craft stalls, a puppet theatre and a beautiful utensils
museum as well as the atmospheric restaurant. Guests are seated
FOR THE
PRICE OF 12
on the floor and are served typical vegetarian thalis. Relax on
charpois (Indian rope beds) while listening to traditional live music.
Unlimited dinner for INR 189 per person, INR 84 for children. 12-ISSUE SUBSCRIPTION PLUS TWO FREE ISSUES
Agashiye, Ahmedabad (00 91 7955 06946, houseofmg.com). UK £42 Europe £52 Rest of world £69
Opposite Siddi Saiyad Mosque, this lovely terrace restaurant at the My details/ billing address
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP top of a grand mansion serves seasonal Gujarati cuisine, including Mr/Mrs/Ms/Miss Forename Surname
LEFT: GROWING UP IN
THE LITTLE RANN OF all-you-can-eat thalis, fruit juices, sweets and home-made ice- Email
KUTCH; DIU OPENS ITS
DOORS; GET YOUR cream amid contemporary décor. Dinner from INR 250. Tel
SWEETS HERE; HEAD TO Apana, Old Fort Road, Diu (00 91 2875 52112). Lively terrace
HEAD IN DIU; HANGING Address
OUT IN BHAVNAGAR; OLD restaurant overlooking the water and located near the town’s night
CITY GATE, DIU
market. It serves good breakfasts, South Indian and Chinese
dishes, but the speciality is fresh seafood (don’t miss the tandoori
pomfret). Dinner around INR 300. Post/Zip code Country
Resort Hoka, Nagoa Beach, Diu (00 91 2875 53036). This
Payment details
friendly and welcoming restaurant is perfect for a light lunch near
I enclose a sterling cheque made payable to
the beach. Simple but delicious food is served in a courtyard Green Pea Publishing for the amount of £
shaded by colourful fabric and hoka palm trees. Fresh coffee and OR please debit my
banana lassis recommended. Dinner less than INR 300. Amex Visa Mastercard Switch (UK only):
Essel Garden Restaurant, Rajkot Road, Junagadh (00 91 285
Card No
2660900). Located opposite the zoo, this charming outdoor
restaurant is popular with local families thanks to its wide choice of Expiry date / Issue no
delicious vegetarian food and traditional thalis. This makes a good Signature
stop on the way to Gir National Park and its rare Asiatic lions.
Tick here if you do not wish to receive details of offers from carefully selected companies.
Dinner less than INR 300.
†Calls may be monitored for staff training purposes. This incentive may not be used
in conjunction with any other offer. Closing date: 31/07/2007.
F&T India10/06
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