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Maps Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Events Hotels

Berlin
December 2015 - January 2016

Glhwein time
Enjoy Berlins Christmas markets
inyourpocket.com
N78 - 1.75

Sports
Eisbren ice hockey & more

S U I T A B L E

F O R

I N T E R N A T I O N A L

V I S I T O R S

Ticket Hotline: +49(0)30 - 588 433 www.wintergarten-berlin.de Potsdamer Str. 96, 10785 Berlin

The Hit Variety Festival

ATEM
LOS

Our annual classic for the Festive Season

and the miracle of the lamp


The Variety Show by children for the whole family
Pre- or afternoon (in the evening Atemlos)
3, 6, 13, 20, 23, 27, 28, 29 and 30 Decembre
Additional shows: 17, 24, 31 January
Tickets: Children up to 14 years from 12*
Adults from 17* Familyticket: 4 people from 48*

presented by

january

presented by

11 Mon, 20:00, Concert, Tickets from 19,90

'

SASCHA LIEN & BAND

Tickets
from 32*
bit.ly/wigaweb
# atemlos

A cauldron
of emotions
Berliner Woche

This peep show


makes us breathless.
Berliner Kurier

SONGS OF THE NIGHT

12 Tue, 20:00, Concert, Tickets from 22,00

'

MRS. GREENBIRD

THE SQUIRREL AND THE BRONTOSAURUS

18 Mon, 20:00, Concert, Tickets from 34,90

'

BIG BAND BATTLE


BERLIN VS. PRAG

Ondrej Havelka & his Melody Makers


vs. Andrej Hermlin & his Swing Dance Orchestra

A must have
for any music fan!

*Prices plus advance booking fee and 2 system fee/ticket

In cooperation with Cabuwazi and the Berliner Mrchentage


Idea, book: Nadine Greitzke
Directed by: Fabian Grger Composition: Bijan Azadian

Contents

Transport

Getting around by S&U

Basics

Essential travel tips

Sports in Berlin

All about Berlins top teams

Holidays in Berlin

10

Markets, parties & more

Galleries & Exhibitions

13

Art special

Culture & Events

14

Claudia Paulussen | Dreamstime.com

Roll up for theatre, shows and cinema

Berlin Mitte

21

The delights of the city centre

Berlin Friedrichshain

32

Workers paradise, students playground

Berlin Charlottenburg & The West

SYMBOL KEY
T Child friendly

U Facilities for the disabled

V Home delivery

E Live music

N No credit cards

M Nearest S/U-Bahn station

B Outside seating

G Non-smoking room

S Take away

R Internet

34

Genteel western Berlin

Berlin Prenzlauer Berg

44

The gentried north

Berlin Kreuzberg

48

Immigrants, anarchists and hipsters

City Tours

57

Guided walks, bike rides and drives

W Wi-Fi
Additional symbols for hotels
P Air conditioning

A Credit cards accepted

L Guarded parking

H Conference facilities

F Fitness centre

K Restaurant

D Sauna

C Swimming pool

Dinner price guide


The number of euro symbols in our restaurant, caf
and nightlife reviews indicates the approximate price
level based on a main course with a glass of wine.
Expensive; more than 30 per person.
Not cheap; 20-30 per person.
Middling; from 10-20 per person.
Cheap; less than 10 per person.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Directory & Street register

59

Maps & Index


City map
Public transport map
Index

61-63
64-65
66

BERLIN BOXES
Scattered throughout the guide youll nd boxes with
more information about these topics:
Cold War Berlin
Erasmus Student Network
West Berlin Revival

38
6
39

December 2015 - January 2016

Foreword
Berlin goes gaga every year over the huge variety of
Christmas Markets that are held between late November
and Christmas Eve. Although plenty of foreigners ock to
them, its the locals that make them truly come to life. With
everything from crass commercial markets near the main
malls, more subtle and upmarket ones near the tourist
attractions, and lovely local markets in the suburbs, theres
a Christmas market for everyone in this ne town. See our
feature on p.10 for more details.

Publisher
In Your Pocket GmbH
Axel-Springer-Strae 39
10969 Berlin
Tel: +49 30 27 90 79 81
Fax: +49 30 24 04 73 50
germany@inyourpocket.com
www.inyourpocket.com
ISSN 1611-9037
Printed by Druckteam GbR Berlin.
Circulation 20,000 copies bimonthly
The public transport map is used under license no. BVG-0079.11.

The concert season is in full swing as well, so for warmer


toes head to a knee-tapping classical concert or a
headbanging rock show, and celebrate that youre alive and
well in this kick-ass city.

Editorial
Editors Jeroen van Marle, Philippe Krger, Christina Knight
Research Cecilia Engvall; Layout Tom Haman
Photos Jeroen van Marle (JvM), Emilie Guilland (EG)
Maps Kartographie Eichner
Cover Benkrut | Dreamstime.com

Whatever you do this winter, wrap up warm and let us


know your tips and comments at berlin@inyourpocket.
com. Enjoy Berlin.

Sales & Circulation


General Manager Stephan Krmer
Production Manager Philippe Krger
Accounting Martin Wollenhaupt
Advertising Managers Philippe Krger,
CoCoMedia (cj@coco-media.de)

Full contents online:


berlin.inyourpocket.com

COVER STORY

Copyright notice & Editors note


Text, photos and maps (unless otherwise stated)
copyright In Your Pocket GmbH. All rights reserved. No
part of this publication may be reproduced in any form
without written permission from the copyright owner.
The brand name In Your Pocket is used under license from
UAB In Your Pocket (Bernardinu 9-4, Vilnius, Lithuania
tel. (+370-5) 212 29 76).
The editorial content of In Your Pocket guides is independent
from paid-for advertising. We have made every eort to
ensure the accuracy of all information and assume no
responsibility for changes and errors.

Dusted with snow, the grand


Berlin Dom church is seen
behind the bridge leading
to Museumsinsel island,
along busy Unter den Linden
boulevard.

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Berlin In Your Pocket

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Transport
Although Berlin is lodged in the middle of the great
empty vastness of northeast Germany, its very well
connected to the rest of civilisation by bus, train, Autobahn
and air. Once in Berlin, youll wish that your home town had
such good public transport.

PUBLIC TRANSPORT
Berlins integrated network of U-Bahn (Untergrundbahn,
underground trains), bus, and Straenbahn (trams) run
by BVG and S-Bahn and RE (Schnellbahn and regional
commuter trains run by DB) usually works like a dream. Just
remember the number or colour and end station of the line
you want to use, and youll be navigating the labyrinth-like
stations like a local.
Most S/U-Bahn trains, buses and trams run every 5-15 minutes
during the day. M buses and trams run every half hour at
night; U-Bahn trains run every 15 minutes on weekend nights,
with N buses following their routes every half hour (starting
from Hackescher Markt) on weekday nights.
Tickets can be used on all BVG, S-Bahn and local RE train
services. Vending machines have instructions in English
and accept coins, often bank notes and cards too. Berlins
AB travel zone contains nearly everything; youll only need
an ABC-ticket for Potsdam and Schoenefeld airport.
With an Einzelfahrschein ticket (AB-zone 2,70, ABC
3,30) you can travel one-way for up to two hours with
unlimited transfers; its cheaper to buy four tickets at once
(Vier-Fahrten-Karte, 9). Buy a 1,60 Kurzstrecke (short
distance) ticket if you want to travel up to three S/U-Bahn
stops, or up to six stops by bus or tram. If you anticipate
a lot of travelling, get the Tageskarte (day ticket, valid
until 03:00 the next morning; 6,90) or the seven-day
pass (29,50). Groups of up to ve people are best o
with a Kleingruppenkarte (group day ticket, 16,90). The
multi-day Berlin Welcomecard (18,50-38,50) is valid for
transport and some attractions.
Before boarding the S- or U-Bahn, always validate your
ticket by punching it in the yellow or red machines near
the end of the platforms. On buses and trams, the machines
are on board. Public transport uses the honour system, and
there are regular checks by uniformed and plainclothes
inspectors. If you are caught without a valid ticket youll
be ned 40 on the spot.
BVG
The Berliner Verkehrsbetriebe run the U-Bahn, buses and
trams. Their handy trip planner can be found at www.
fahrinfo-berlin.de.Qtel. +49 30 194 49, info@bvg.de,
www.bvg.de.

TAXIS
Berlins friendly and ubiquitous beige Mercedes taxis can be
called or hailed on the street. They can also be found queing
at S/U-Bahn stations and near nightlife hotspots. Not all taxis
accept credit cards, ask when you book. Prices are the same
day and night; agfall plus the rst kilometre is 3,40; then up
to 7km its 1,79/km, thereafter 1,28/km. Waiting costs 25/
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hr. For short hops hail a taxi already driving in the direction
you need to go and immediately ask for the Kurzfahrstrecke
tarri; 4 for 2km. By the way, Funk means radio.
CITY FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 02 02, www.cityfunk.de.
FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.taxifunkberlin.de.
TAXI FUNKQtel. +49 30 44 33 22, www.taxi443322.de.
WBT FUNK TAXI BERLINQtel. +49 30 26 10 26,
www.funk-taxi-berlin.de.
WRFEL-FUNKQtel. +49 30 21 01 01,
www.wuerfelfunk.de.

CYCLING
As long as its dry, getting around Berlin is really best done
by bicycle. Its a at city, there are plenty of cycle paths and
wide bus lanes for you to use and you see so much more
from the saddle than from the U-Bahn train window. Note
that cycling on the pavement is illegal and may get you
ned, even though everyone does it. Cycling across town
may take a while, though for 1,60 you can take your bike
on an S/U-Bahn train too. There are dozens of bike rental
places, most charging 10-12 per day. The urban bike
trip planner www.bbbike.de can suggest low-trac and
cobblestone-free routes across Berlin.

CITY CARDS
Discounts are a welcome relief, so if you are planning
to travel around town a lot and see more than one
museum, get a reduced rate card. Note that students
and youths may get better reductions at museums
using their student ID cards.
BERLIN WELCOMECARD
The Berlin WelcomeCard is a combined transport and
reduction card (museums, bike tours/rental, boat tours,
etc) valid for zone AB or zone ABC (which includes
Potsdam and Schnefeld airport). Cards are valid for 48
hours (AB 18,50, ABC 20,50), 72 hours (25,50/27,50)
or 5 days (32,50/37,50). Theres also a 72-hour variety
(38,50/40,50) that includes free admission to the ve
Museumsinsel museums. Cards are sold online and from
BVG ticket machines, tourist oces, S-Bahn oces, hotels
and kiosks. The similar CityTourCard (www.citytourcard.
com) is a little cheaper, with restaurant, bar and club
discounts geared towards younger travellers: 48 hours
(AB 16,90, ABC 18,90), 72 hours (23,90/25,90) or
5 days (30,90/35,90).Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
MUSEUM PASS BERLIN
50 museums, including the permanent collections of
the Staatliche Museen (state museums), can be visited
with the Berlin Museum Pass (24/12, valid three days).
Its for sale at the museums, tourism oces and online.
Qwww.berlin-welcomecard.de.
December 2015 - January 2016

Basics
BASIC DATA
Population: Germany: 81,751,602; Berlin: 3,460,725
Longest river in Germany: Rhine, 1319km.
The Spree is 403km.
Highest point of Germany: Zugspitze, 2962m
Highest point of Berlin: Teufelsberg, 114m
Highest natural point of Berlin:
Victoriapark Kreuzberg, 66m
Berlins territory: 900 square kilometers

CRIME & SAFETY


Berlin is a relatively calm and safe place. Instances of petty
crimes are low compared to other Western European capitals, though you shoulds still always keep an eye on your
valuables and never leave bags, wallets and mobile phones
unattended. Just like anywhere else, be careful when walking in unlit streets late at night. Race-related hassles seldom
occur in Berlins touristed central areas.

ELECTRICITY
Electrical current in Germany is 220v AC, 50 Hz via standard European round, two-pin sockets. Converters can be
bought at the airport and large electronics shops, and
many hotels will have them at the front desk too.

ERASMUS STUDENT
NETWORK
How do international students get to meet locals
and the city during an academic exchange? The
best way to do it is via the Erasmus Student Network
(ESN), one of the biggest interdisciplinary student
associations in Europe. It was developed to help
internationals during their stay abroad. ESN is present
in more than 430 Higher Education Institutions in 36
countries. The closest section to Berlin is the section
in Potsdam, where more than 20 volunteers care for
you. For information, see potsdam.esngermany.org or
www.facebook.com/esn.lei.potsdam.
6

Berlin In Your Pocket

MONEY
Germany uses the euro (). Banknotes come in denominations of 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200 and 500. Coins,
whose design depends on in which country they were
minted, come in denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 20 and 50
cents and 1 and 2. Credit and debit card payment is
possible in a wide range of shops, restaurants and nightlife
venues, though always have cash on you for small payments
just in case. This guide indicates which places do not accept
plastic. ATMs can be found everywhere; those that charge
for transactions clearly indicate the fee during the process.
Exchange oces can be found at the major train stations.

VISAS AND ENTRY


FORMALITIES
EU citizens can stay in Germany as long as they like, though
registration at a Brgeramt oce is ocially required for stays
more than a few months. Citizens of Australia, Canada, Hong
Kong, Japan, Malaysia, New Zealand, Mexico USA and a few
others can enter Germany without a visa for a maximum of 90
days in any six month period. All other nationals need to apply
for a German visa in advance. Note that theres no passport
control between Germany and the other 14 European Schengen countries, and visas to any of these are valid for travel in
Germany too. All visitors need a passport that is valid for at
least fourth months from the date of arrival; EU citizens can
enter with a valid EU identity card too. Check the MFA website
for the latest immigration details: www.auswaertiges-amt.de.

CLIMATE
30

80

25

70
60

20

50

15

40
10

30

5
0

Rainfall (mm)

Germans like their beer, drinking about 107 litres per capita
per year (down from 136 litres 15 years ago). Unfortunately
Berlins local brew, the slightly sour Berliner Weie, is only really palatable mit Schuss, with a shot of sweet fruit sirup. Cocktails and long drinks of varying quality and price are available
in a multitude of places. Non-alcoholic drinks often sipped
in Berlin include Apfelschorle, a refreshing mix of apple juice
and sparkling water, and Club-Mate (kloob mah-tea) ice tea,
made with extract of the South American mat plant, caeine
and tannins, and is popular with local hipsters as it comes in
a screw top bottle so you can hiply tote it around (or drink to
just below the top label and top it up with wodka).

Temperature C

DRINKS & ALCOHOL

20
Jan

Feb Mar Apr May Jun

Jul

Aug

Sep

Oct

Nov Dec

-5

10
0

Rainfall (mm)

Min Temp (C)

Max Temp (C)

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Berlin Districts
Berlin is four times the size of Paris, and even though the
city consolidated its 23 districts into 12 in 2001, youre still
left with 23 self contained areas (Kieze) in which Berliners
often nd everything they need. Public transportation is
far-reaching and eective though, and youll grow to love it
as you shuttle between the four areas with the most sights:
Charlottenburg, Tiergarten, Mitte and Kreuzberg.

MITTE (MI)
Since reunication, Mitte has rightly snatched back the title
of most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and o the
boulevard Unter den Linden, whose trees Marlene Dietrich
once extolled in song, are baroque and classical monuments
to Prussian culture. The proximity of state libraries, the State
Opera, Humboldt University, the old Arsenal (now the
German History Museum), Gendarmenmarkt, Museum
Island, Berliner Dom, and the abandoned East German
Parliament building make for more talk, less walk tours. The
architecturally humbler area of Mitte is the Scheunenviertel,
whose layout looks as if 17th-century planners got
interrupted during a game of pick-up sticks. Its on these
streets that the casually chic saunter from courtyard gallery
to sidewalk caf, pointing out directions to tourists seeking
out the latest hotspots or traces of the Jewish community
that lived here from the late 17th-century until the mass
deportations of the Nazi era.

CHARLOTTENBURG (CB)
If downtown to you means wide, trac-lled streets,
crowds of shoppers, ve-star hotels and tall buildings, then
Charlottenburg comes closest to tting the bill in Berlin. Much
of what was here was bombed in the war and built anew in the
1950s. The nexus of activity is the knot where Kufrstendamm,
Joachimsthaler Str, Bahnhof Zoo and Tauentzienstr. come
together. Follow what becomes an increasingly silken
ribbon down Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting
becomes more genteel where you cant see the buildings for
the trees. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I.

TIERGARTEN (TG)
Tiergarten is both a district and the name of the 255 hectare
park that began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in
the 1600s and became increasingly more civilised with
landscaping in the 1800s. Trac passes through it, doing a
dosey-doe around the Siegessule (Victory Column). Slicing
though the parks length is Str. des 17. Juni, which leads to
the Brandenburg Gate at the eastern end. Just south of it are
the museums of the Kulturforum and Potsdamer Pl.

KREUZBERG (KB)
Thanks to a large Turkish community and more hippies,
anarchists and alternative folks than you can shake a
didgeridoo at, Kreuzberg feels neither East nor West. It
was the black sheep of West Berlin, left alone in its far-o
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dreamstime.com

room to play loud music and draw on the walls (literally, it


was parked in a dead-end, cornered by The Wall). In 1987
social and economic frustration exploded into violence and
vandalism during the traditionally political demonstrations
of May Day. Every year since, the city prepares for a long
night of stone-throwing and burning automobiles. May
1st is essentially Kreuzbergs way of reliving its 15 minutes
of fame. The rest of the days are marked by backgammon
at the mens clubs, caf-sitting on the Landwehrkanal,
and ambling down the popular drags Oranienstr.
and Bergmannstr. Two major museums, the House at
Checkpoint Charlie and the Jewish Museum, are planted in
the staid parts of the district.

PRENZLAUER BERG (PB)


On a low hill northeast of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an old
working-class district in the former East Berlin that came
through the war relatively unscathed. The best places to
soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzpl, Helmholzpl. and
along Kastanienallee (all near U-Bahn Eberswalderstr.).
Prenzlauer Bergs few attractions include the Vitra Design
museum and a 19th-century brewery complex that is now
the Kulturbrauerei culture centre. A good time to visit is
Saturday when the eco-market is open on Kollwitzplatz, or
Sunday when everyone sits outside being cool and eating
breakfast all day.

FURTHER AFIELD
Districts mostly known for their restaurant and nightlife
scene are Schneberg (SB), the centre of gay Berlin, and
Friedrichshain (FH), lled with creatively tattered and
tattooed students. Berlin has green spots galore, and after
Tiergarten the most popular getaways are the Grunewald
forest and lake Wannsee, in the southwest district of
Zehlendorf (ZD).
December 2015 - January 2016

Sports in Berlin
Despite being rivals, Berlins six professional sports
collaborate to improve the circumstances for professional
sports in Berlin, promoting Berlins image as an international
sports event destination.

Eisbren Berlin

City Press GmbH

Berlin is without a doubt the German capital of sports - the


city has no less than six professional sports teams, playing
ve exciting spectator sports: Hertha BSC and FC Union
play football, the Eisbren is an ace ice hockey team, Alba is
Berlins renowned basketball club, the Fchse play handball,
and volleyball is taken care of by the BR Volleys. Their
home matches attract huge numbers of visitors to Berlins
stadiums; last season alone 2,4 million tickets were sold
for their events. In addition to this, Berlins streets regularly
host huge sports events such as the public viewing festivals
during major sports events abroad, and the city also hosts
countless amateur sports matches.
ALBA BERLIN (BASKETBALL)
Also known as the Albatrosse,
Berlins basketball club is
Germanys most successful, and
has the largest fanbase; home
matches easily attract 10,000
spectators. Since going pro in
1991, Alba has won the German
League 8 times and the German
Cup 7 times, and was also the rst German team to
win an international title with the 1995 Korac Cup. In
the 2015-2016 the team had 8 straight victories before
losing a match in the Bundesliga; still its looking
good and mixed results in the Euro-league mean they
should advance. Alba slam-dunk their way to victory at
their home Mercedes-Benz-Arena:
2 Dec, 20:00: Le Mans Sarthe
13 Dec, 17:00: Brose Baskets Bamberg
16 Dec, 20:00: Enel Basket Brindisi
19 Dec, 18:30: Walter Tigers Tbingen
27 Dec, 17:00: Mitteldeutscher MBC
QI-4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
1805 57 00 11, www.albaberlin.de. Tickets 8-65.
8

Berlin In Your Pocket

The home matches of Berlins pro teams are easy to visit:


you dont need to understand German to be able to follow
a match and unlike in other European countries, sports
matches in Germany are quite peaceful events, meaning
its no problem to bring the whole family to the stadium
for an afternoon or evening of fun. Finding out about
which matches are playing where can be problematic for
visitors however as the club websites are not all available
in English, and some make it dicult to nd the upcoming
playing dates. In the club details here we have listed all
home matches for the following months, though always
keep an eye on the club websites for changes or additional
matches. Berlins ocial English-language sports website
www.berlin-sportmetropole.de has information about
all the teams, venues and tickets; ticket booking site
www.eventimsports.de sells tickets for all matches.
Eisbren Berlin
Berliners are rightly proud of their professional ice-hockey
team, Eisbren Berlin, or polar bears. Founded in 1953
it was already very succesful in the GDR before winning
the national Deutsche Eishockey Liga no less than 7 times
since 1990, more than any other team. In the Champions
Hockey League the team unfortunately did not make it past
Swedish top team Skelleftea AIK recently. Hopes are high
for the German Leggue though, and former NHL player
Mark Olver joins his brother Darin in the team this season
after leaving the Swiss club Kloten Flyers.
Enjoy cheering for Berlin!

BR VOLLEYS (VOLLEYBALL)
Berlins professional volleyball team originates
in the western district
of Charlottenburg, but
plays home matches at
the Max-Schmeling-Halle in Prenzlauer Berg. The BR
Volleys have been particularly successful since the late
1990s, winning the German Bundesliga title ve times.
Their upcoming home games are:
2 Dec, 19:30: Marek Dupnitsa
10 Dec, 19:30: United Volleys RheinMain
13 Dec, 15:00: United Volleys RheinMain
13 Jan, 19:30: SVG Lneburg
20 Jan, 19:30: Belogorie Belgorod
QAm Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle), Prenzlauer
Berg, tel. +49 1806 99 11 12, www.berlin-recyclingvolleys.de. Tickets 13-16.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Sports in Berlin
EISBREN BERLIN (ICE HOCKEY)
Originating in 1953 in East
Germanys Dynamo sports
club, the polar bears is Berlins
popular professional ice hockey
team. They won the national
Deutsche Eishockey Liga 7
times, more than any other
team, and also bagged the
European Trophy in 2010. Their
home matches at the Mercedes-Benz-Arena are true
familyfests, with a festive, good-humoured atmosphere.
The bears are the hottest team in town, and are currently
ghting for a play-o spot in the German League.
4 Dec, 19:30: Adler Mannheim
6 Dec, 14:30: Iserlohn Roosters
11 Dec, 19:30: Klner Haie
26 Dec, 16:30: Grizzlys Wolfsburg
30 Dec, 19:30: Iserlohn Roosters
3 Jan, 14:30: Schwenninger Wild Wings
5 Jan, 19:30: Klner Haie
10 Jan, 14:30: Augsburger Panther
22 Jan, 19:30: Dsseldorfer EG
29 Jan, 19:30: ERC Ingolstadt
QI-4, Mercedes-Platz 1 (Mercedes-Benz-Arena),
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
30 97 18 40 40, www.eisbaeren.de. Tickets 18-46.

FCHSE BERLIN (HANDBALL)


The foxes, Berlins
handball team, is part
of an old West Berlin
sports club, and now
plays home matches
in Prenzlauer Bergs
Max-Schmeling-Halle,
named after the boxing
legend who was world
champion heavyweight
between 1930-32. The
Fchse compete in the upper half of the Bundesliga
table but are not really a contender for a title. As the
title holder of the EHF European Cup they are ghting
an uphill battle to advance to the next round, having
to win in France from top team Chambery.
6 Dec, 17:15: HBW Balingen-W.
20 Dec, 17:15: SG Flensburg-H.
27 Dec, 15:00: ThSV Eisenach
QG-1, Am Falkplatz (Max-Schmeling-Halle),
Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30
44 30 44 30, www.fuechse-berlin.de. Tickets 12-50.

HERTHA BSC (FOOTBALL)


FC UNION BERLIN (FOOTBALL)

FC Union is the working mans football team for


Berlin, originating in East Berlin in 1966 and a feared
counterpart for the GDRs state-inuenced Dynamo
club. Union is still ercely independent, based in their
charming An der Alten Frsterei stadium. The club
has resisted all commercialism, with a club anthem
sung by punkrock legend Nina Hagen, and a stadium
uniquely partly owned by passionate fans. Nicknamed
Eisern Union (iron union), it had a tough time in
the 1990s, but has had more success in the national
competitions since the early 2000s. The new trainer,
Lewandowski, has introduced a more oensive style
of playing but still lacks talent up front - and Union is
therefore lagging in the lower third of the table.
18 Dec, 18.30: SV Sandhausen
QAn der Wuhlheide 263 (Stadion An der Alten
Frsterei), Kpenick, MS Kpenick, tel. +49 30 656
68 80, www.fc-union-berlin.de. Tickets 14-43.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Berlins main football team plays home matches at


the impressive Olympiastadion, Germanys second
largest stadium, built for the 1936 Olympic Games
and renovated for the 2006 World Cup. Hertha was
founded back in 1892 and is know as the Alte Dame,
the old lady, witnessing its glory years between 1926
and 1931 when it reached the German Championship
nals 6 times, winning it twice. Herthas doing very well
at the moment, positioned 4th, with new coach Pal
Dardai turning the teams fortunes around with solid
defence, great tackling and a very good pass accuracy.
Keep an eye on the two forwards Vedad Ibisevic from
Bosnia and Salomon Kalou from Ivory Coast who
work very well together and just try to follow Vladimir
Darida who covers over 13km per match!
5 Dec, 15:30: Bayer 04 Leverkusen
20 Dec, 15:30: FSV Mainz 05
23 Dec, 15:30 FC Augsburg
QOlympischer
Platz
3
(Olympiastadion),
Charlottenburg, MS5 Olympiastadion, tel. +49
1805 18 92 00, www.herthabsc.de. Tickets 15-89.
December 2015 - January 2016

Christmas & New Years in Berlin


Berlins many outdoor Christmas markets (Weihnachtsmrkte) bustle with both tourists and locals. Theres music,
food, drinks and great gift shopping, as the markets oer
mainly handicrafts and decorations such as the popular
wooden trinkets from the Erzgebirge mountains. Then
there are also huge fruitcakes (Stllen) and nutcrackers
(Nussknacker), scarves, hats, and gloves of richly coloured
felt. Wrap up warm and stay tanked up on the Glhwein,
hot mulled red wine, sold at all markets in souvenir mugs.
Germans make Christmas a far less commercial holiday
than in some other countries, and instead whip themselves
into a frenzy with cookie-baking sessions, classical music
concerts and opera.
Berlin has about 60 Christmas markets for you to enjoy
in December 2015. The most picturesque ones are the
Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarkt on Schlossplatz (see
below), the Sophienstrae Christmas Eco-Market (see
below), the market on Gendarmenmarkt (until 31 Dec,
open 11:00 - 22:00, 24 and 31 Dec until 18:00, admission
1), the market in Spandaus cozy old town (until 23 Dec,
Sun-Thu 11:00 - 20:00, Fri 11:00 - 21:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00),
and the Lucia Weihnachtsmarkt in the Kulturbrauerei
complex (until 22 Dec, open Mon-Fri 15:00 - 22:00, Sat & Sun
13:00 - 22:00). Theres a huge winter world at Potsdamer
Platz (market until 26 December, open 10:00 - 22:00, 24 Dec
until 14:00, attractions open until 3 January), and the lovely
traditional Rixdorf market in Neuklln (see below).
NOSTALGIC CHRISTMAS MARKET

The Nostalgischer Weihnachtsmarktin Berlins historical centre


on Schlossplatz, opposite the huge palace building project,
presents 150 stands with gifts, and artisans at work. Traditional
food and drinks are available, and children can enjoy special
punch and the Christmas crib with live animals.QUntil 27
December. Schlossplatz, Mitte, www.berliner-weihnacht.
de. Open Mon-Thu 12:00-21:30, Fri & Sat 11:00 - 22:30, Sun
11:00 - 21:30; 25-27 Dec 11:30 - 21:00, 24 Dec closed.
RIXDORF CHRISTMAS MARKET
One of the most beautiful wintertime sights in Berlin and
held on the second weekend of Advent, the Rixdorf market,
located in a quaint village that was swallowed Berlins
Neuklln district a century ago. This traditional market lit
by oil lamps and featuring pony and camel rides strives to
recapture the small town feel of old Rixdorf. Running for
10 Berlin In Your Pocket

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Christmas & New Years in Berlin


one weekend only and featuring handmade crafts and
other wares sold only by charitable organizations, this
piece of old-world Christmas tradition is one attraction not
to miss.QRichardplatz 28, Neuklln, U-Bahn Karl-MarxStrae. From 4-6 Dec, Fri 17:00 - 21:00, Sat 14:00 - 21:00,
and Sun 14:00 - 20:00.
SOPHIENSTRASSE CHRISTMAS ECOMARKET
In Mittes designer and gallery district, the eco-friendly
Christmas market takes place on Sophienstrae, one of
Berlins most beautiful streets. Stands sell all manner of
useful, eco-friendly and unusual Christmas gifts, of German
or fair-trade origin. The market is kept stylish and low-key,
and a limited but ne selection of food stands oers crepes,
organic Bratwurst, raclette and Glhwein. Theres live music,
performers, angels, and Santa drops by every day for the
children.QWeihnachtsmarkt Sophienstrae, Mitte, S-Bahn
Hackescher Markt, U-Bahn Weinmeisterstrae, www.
weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de. Open 28-29 Nov &
5-6, 12-13, 19-20 Dec; Sat 12:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.

20th Environment and


Christmas Market
Sophienstrae 2015
Sophisticated items at a
magical illuminated Christmas
fair near the gallery quarter

Access fro
m
Rosentha
ler Strae
or
through H
ackesche
Hfe, (Hof
VI)

CHRISTMAS SHOPPING
FREY WILLE
Quality artistic enamel jewellery from Austria, inspired by
famous artists like Klimt, Mucha, Monet and Hundertwasser.
Besides the shop in Mitte, theres also an outlet at
Kurfrstendamm 50.QKarl Liebknechtstr. 3 (DomAquare
mall), Mitte, tel. +49 30 23 45 73 31, www.freywille.com.
Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.

On the ds
en
4 week ent
of Adv :00

020
Sat 12:0 19:00
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:0
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www.weihnachtsmarkt-sophienstrasse.de

GUDRUN SJDN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjdn in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. Theres two
oors of clothing and a cozy caf corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD
The agship store of Germanys famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzsische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

HOLIDAY OPENING TIMES


Many larger stores and malls will open on the Sundays
(from 13:00-20:00) leading up to Christmas and remain
open till late at night on weekdays. Museums are largely
open during the holidays. The Hauptbahnhof tourist
oce is open daily during the holidays. Nearly everything
closes earlier on the 24th. Public transport operates as
on Sundays on 25 Dec and 1 Jan, and has extra services
running throughout the night on New Years Eve.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Sophienstrae Christmas Eco-Market

EVENTS - Ralf Bielefeldt

December 2015 - January 2016

11

Christmas & New Years in Berlin


KEINE ANGST VOR WILDEN TIEREN WIR HABEN KEINE !

NEW YEARS EVE

OR IGIN AL

12/18/2015 - 01/03/2016
Tempodrom
TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

While Christmas might be a mellow aair in Berlin, the


days preceding New Years (Silvester, after the saint
whose name day falls on 1 January) suggest a wartorn city that hasnt quite given up its arms yet - thats
what happens when the corner store sells reworks to
naughty twelve-year-old boys. A million people show
up for the citys free, 2km-long party at Brandenburger
Tor, the worlds largest New Years Eve party. Shake o
2015 and warm up at the same time in one of several
the dance oor tents or at the various stages. Note that
you cant take reworks, glass, large plastic bottles,
alcoholic drinks or suitcases into the party zone. See
also www.silvester-berlin.de.

RONCALLI
CHRISTMAS CIRCUS
The famous Roncalli Circus has been delighting young
and old ever since the manager packed his trunk and
went to the circus in 1975 and returns to Berlin a 12th
time this winter from 18 December until 3 January for
a series of special performances at the Tempodrom
hall near Anhalter Bahnhof station. You can expect an
animal-free show with world-class artists, acrobats and
clowns, working together to entertain the audience,
but also to make people step back to think about
whats important in life. Theres a matinee and evening
show on most days, but check the website for up to
date details. Book tickets at www.semmel.de.

Roncalli

12 Berlin In Your Pocket

RONCALLI WEIHNACHTSCIRCUS, 18 Dec 3 Jan,


Tempodrom, Mckernstrae 10, www.roncalli.de.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Galleries & Exhibitions

Number
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Berlins museum and gallery world is constantly in ux, and


perhaps now more than ever. Several large museums are
closed for lengthy renovations that will last until the end of the
decade, and the contemporary art scene is on the move, with
artists eeing the rising rents in the Mitte district for atelier space
in outlying districts and galleries regrouping in new cultural
nodes like Potsdamer Strasse. On this page we highlight a few
of Berlins many excellent galleries and exhibitions.
BERLINISCHE GALERIE
After lengthy renovations, the Berlinische Galerie recently
reopened, exhibiting the citys excellent collection of local
art from 1880-1980. Until 24 August theres an exhibition of
remarkable works by painter Bernhard Martin (1966); this
artist from Hannover paints extravagant pictorial narratives
which always seeks visual resources appropriate to the
theme, often alluding to artists of the past.
QAlte Jakobstrae 124-128, tel. +49 30 78 90 26 00,
www.berlinischegalerie.de.
C/O BERLIN
Recently rehoused in the historical Amerika-Haus near
Zoologischer Garten, the C/O gallery presents changing
exhibitions of fantastic photography. The current 'Genesis'
exhibition of striking nature photos by Sebastio Salgado is
not to be missed.
QHardenbergstr. 22-24, tel. +49 30 284 44 16 62,
www.co-berlin.org.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

SLOW PHOTOGRAPHY BERLIN


Ukrainian artist Oleg Farynyuk photographs subjects
using old techniques, especially the wetplate method
which was invented in 1851 and was the rst time photos
could be shot with short exposure times. At the gallery
and shop you can view the resulting high-quality photos,
and have one made.
QSlow Photography Berlin, Christinenstr. 15, tel. +49
152 17 55 00 74, www.slow-photography-berlin.com.
SAMMLUNG BOROS
A former bunker holds the private art gallery of
advertising executive Christian Boros and his wife, who
live on top of the absurd structure. Its full of wonderful
contemporary art, including a tree by Ai Wei Wei and
a runaway popcorn machine that is slowly lling up a
room. Tours only, book well in advance.
QReinhardstrae 20, tel. +49 30 27 59 40 65,
www.sammlung-boros.de.
KNIG GALERIE, ST. AGNES
A strikingly brutalist 1967 church in Kreuzberg has been
transformed into a modern art gallery for Johann Knig,
the bare concrete walls forming the perfect background for
though-provoking art.
QSt Agnes, Alexandrinenstrae 118-121, tel. +49 30 26
10 30 80, www.johannkoenig.de.
December 2015 - January 2016

13

Culture & Events


VENUE LIST BERLIN
AD ADMIRALSPALAST, Friedrichstrae 101-102,
tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.admiralspalast.de.
CH COLUMBIA-HALLE, Columbiadamm 13-21,
tel. +49 30 698 09 80, www.columbiahalle.de.
CO C/O BERLIN, Postfuhramt, Oranienburger
Strae 35, tel. +49 30 28 09 19 25, www.co-berlin.info.
DH DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM,
Unter den Linden 2, tel. +49 30 20 30 44 44,
www.dhm.de.
GG GEMLDEGALERIE, Matthikirchplatz,
tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum/gg.
HX HUXLEYS NEUE WELT, Hasenheide 108-114,
tel. +49 30 627 93 20, www.huxleysneuewelt.com.
KB KULTURBRAUEREI, Knaackstrae 97,
tel. +49 30 44 31 51 51, www.kulturbrauerei.de.
MB MESSE BERLIN, Messedamm 22,
tel. +49 30 303 80, www.messe-berlin.de.
MG MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU,
Niederkirchnerstrae 7, tel. +49 30 25 48 60,
www.gropiusbau.de.
PH PHILHARMONIE, Herbert-von-Karajan-Strae
1, tel. +49 30 25 48 80, www.berliner-philharmoniker.de.

EVENT TICKETS
Tickets can be purchased at the venues, via hotel
concierges, at ticket oces (also in major department
stores) and online.
EVENTIM An online booking service with event
tickets mailed or available for home printing.Qtel. +49
180 557 00 70, www.eventim.de.
HEKTICKET Ticket shops and online sales (for home
printing, pick-up or mailing). Reduced same-day tickets
for shows and attractions are available after 14:00. Also
at Karl-Liebknecht-Strae 13, Mitte.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 29d, Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 230 99 30, www.hekticket.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 14:00 - 18:00.
KOKA 36 Kreuzbergs Konzertkasse has tickets in their
shop and online (German only), for mailing and pickup.QH-4, Oranienstrae 29, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 10 13 13, www.koka36.
de. Open 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
PAPAGENA Regular and reduced price tickets for
classical music, opera and theatre. Call for English-language service.Qtel. +49 30 47 99 74 44, www.khs.
papagena.de.
14 Berlin In Your Pocket

Berlin is blessed with a large number of quality theatres


and halls, top-quality artists and relatively cheap tickets
- and an annual cultural budget of over 900 million to
fund it all. Sports lovers can choose from a wide variety of
matches played year-round.

OPERA & CLASSICAL MUSIC


DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN
West Berlins 1960s opera building with its excellent
acoustics hosts superb musical and theatrical performances.
Donald Runnicles is the principal conductor.QB-3,
Bismarckstrae 35, Charlottenburg, MU Deutsche
Oper, tel. +49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.
de. Tickets from 16.
KOMISCHE OPER
Starting o as the Theater Unter den Linden in 1892, the
buildings monumental neo-baroque main hall survived
wartime bombing, and reopened in 1947. It shows classic
music, ballet and opera pieces. Translations in English
are shown on a screen on the seat in front of you.QF-3,
Behrenstrae 55, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49
30 20 26 00, www.komische-oper-berlin.de. Tickets 9-150.
KONZERTHAUS BERLIN
Together with the Deutscher and Franzsischer Dom
churches, the Konzerthaus forms Berlins most spectacular
architectural ensemble. Built by Friedrich Schinkel in 1821,
it was badly damaged in the war and only reopened as a
concert hall in 1984. The Berliner Sinfonie-Orchester plays
at the venue.QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 2, Mitte, MU
Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 203 09 21 01, www.konzerthaus.
de. Tickets 10-99.
STAATSOPER IM SCHILLERTHEATER
The venue for Daniel Barenboims award-winning
Staatskapelle orchestra. Temporarily housed in the
Schillertheater until renovations of their grand theatre on
Unter den Linden are completed.QC-3, Bismarckstrae
110, Charlottenburg, MU Ernst-Reuter-Platz, tel. +49
30 20 35 45 55, www.staatsoper-berlin.org. Tickets 14220.

FILM FESTIVALS
Apart from the huge Berlinale lm festival in February,
Berlin has over 40 smaller international lm festivals
throughout the year, often focused on a country or theme.
9-15 Dec: French Filmweek,
various venues, www.franzoesische-lmwoche.de
10-16 Dec: Cinema! Italia!,
Babylon Mitte & Bali Kino, www.cinema-italia.net
21-25 Jan: British Shorts,
various cinemas, www.britishshorts.de
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


CINEMAS
Foreign lm oerings in German cinemas are often
dubbed so check www.critic.de/ov-movies-berlin or
look in listings magazines like Tip and Zitty, for subtitled
lms; these are marked in with OmU or OmengU
(original version with German/English subtitles) and
OF or OV (original version); DF means German version.

SHOWS
ADMIRALSPALAST
This former army bathhouse was famous for its cabaret,
operetta house, spa and brothel in Berlins roaring 20s.
Hitler cleaned up their acts in the 1930s, installing a private
box so that he could watch his favourite operetta The
Merry Widow, and Brecht tried out his new theatre here
from the 1950s. With several theatres, it now puts on plays,
concerts and musicals.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 101, Mitte,
MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 47 99 74 99, www.
admiralspalast.de. Shows Tue-Sun 20:00. Tickets 21-79.
BERLIN RESIDENCE CONCERTS
The Berlin Residence Orchestra consists of well-known
musicians, who interpret baroque and classic opera with a
keen sense of the compositions from that era. The result
is an extraordinary concert event, with musical highlights
presented true to the original style and aristocratic sound.
Guests can combine the concert with a tour of Charlottenburg castle, and a dinner amidst hundreds of candles.QB-3,
Spandauer Damm 22-24, Charlottenburg, MS Westend,
tel. +49 30 25 810 350, www.residenzkonzerte.berlin.
Dinner 18:00, concert 20:00. Tickets 29-127.
BLUE MAN GROUP
The (quite literally) Blue Man Group has been wowing
audiences for years in their Bluemax Theatre. The visually
and musically powerful show is suitable for foreigners as
it has little spoken German, and now has been thoroughly
revamped, with many new sketches and elements.QE-4,
Marlene Dietrich Platz 4, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 1805 44 44, www.bluemangroup.de. Shows Tue,
Fri 21:00; Wed, Thu, Sat 18:00, 21:00; Sun 18:00. Tickets
from 69.

ASK THE CONCIERGE


Berlins top hotels all have concierges that are there
to make the guests lives easier. They can inform you
about current events, book tickets, make restaurant
reservations and hand out copies of Berlin In Your
Pocket, transport maps, and brochures. Concierges can
be recognised by the crossed golden keys on the lapels
of their jackets.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

ADRIA
The lm Berlin, wie es war, black and white footage of
old Berlin, in German, screens every Sunday at 11:30.
QSchlostrae 48, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz,
tel. +49 180 505 07 11, www.cineplex.de. Tickets
7,40-9,40.
BABYLON MITTE
A 1920s lmhouse with a great program, but beware
of dubbed lms. The building itself is a example of New
Objectivity. Occasionaly there are screenings of silent
lms accompanied by the 1929 organ.QG-2, RosaLuxemburg-Strae 30, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 242 59 69, www.babylonberlin.de.
Tickets 7.
CENTRAL KINO
Art-house lms and mini lm fests take place in this
small, but comfy cinema at the very back of a scruy
courtyard.QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS
Hackerscher Markt, tel. +49 30 28 59 99 73, www.
kino-central.de. Tickets 6,50, Tue, Wed 5,50.
CINESTAR IMAX & ORIGINAL
CineStar IMAX has blockbuster lms and documentaries
in English on the biggest screen in town, featuring IMAX
quality of projection and sound. The CineStar Original
cinema has Germanys widest range of Hollywood
and arthouse movies in their original English version.
QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 4, Tiergarten (Sony Center),
MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 26 06 64 00,
www.cinestar.de. Tickets 6-13.
HACKESCHE HFE
Mainly shows foreign lms in their original language.
QG-2, Rosenthaler Strae 40, Mitte, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 283 46 03, www.hackesche-hoefe.
org. Tickets 8; Mon, Tue 6,50.
SPUTNIK
Berlins highest cinema screens a lot of indie lms,
many in English, and sometimes very long ones. In
a back courtyard of a large complex, it may seem a
bit dicey working your way to the theater, but its
safe, small, and friendly. Bricks make up part of the
furniture.QG-5, Hasenheide 54, Kreuzberg, MU
Sdstern, tel. +49 30 694 11 47, www.sputnik-kino.
com. Tickets 5-6,5.
December 2015 - January 2016

15

Culture & Events


DEUTSCHE OPER
Berlins famous Deutsche Oper orchestra moves back
into its home theatre after extensive renovations this
winter. All the more reason to visit and watch one
of their performances. Several shows have Englishlanguage subtitles so visitors can follow the action; see
the website for details. The highlights of Berlins famous
Deutsche Oper orchestra this season are:
2,3,6 Dec: The Wanderings of Odysseus
2,5,8 Dec: La Favorite
3,6,10 Dec: Aida
4,9,11,13,28, 31 Dec: La Boheme
7 Dec: Mahler concert
12,29 Dec, 2 Jan: The Magic Flute
15,16,17,25,30 Dec, 1 Jan: The Nutcracker
20 Dec, 6,10 Jan: Tosca
26 Dec, 3 Jan: The Barber of Sevilla
7,23,30 Jan: Nabucco
9,17,22 Jan: La Traviata
15 Jan: Opera Lounge night
16,20 Jan: Swan Lake
24,29 Jan: Salome
31 Jan: Lohengrin
31 Jan: Jazz & Lyrics, Swanee River Jazz Band
DEUTSCHE OPER BERLIN, Bismarckstrae 35, tel.
+49 30 34 38 43 43, www.deutscheoperberlin.de.
FRIEDRICHSTADT-PALAST
No one does over-the-top better than the producers and
long-legged dancers and acrobats of Friedrichstadtpalast.
This venue normally puts on the glitziest, biggest
revues in town.QF-3, Friedrichstrae 107, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 23 26 23 26, www.showpalace.eu. Tickets 18-106.
HINTERM HORIZONT
The musical based on the songs of German rock legend
Udo Lindenberg is a hit with the locals, and using the free
portable translator device (book in advance), international
visitors can follow the spoken scenes too. Behind the
horizon is an East-West love story set in Berlin: a West
German rock singer falls for an East Berlin beauty, who
spies on him for the Stasi in order to save her brother. Years
later, in a reunited Germany, they piece together their
history.QE-4, Marlene-Dietrich-Platz 1 (Stage Theater
am Potsdamer Platz), MPotsdamer Platz, tel. +49 1805
44 44, www.stage-entertainment.de. Shows 19:00, Fri
20:00, Sat 15:30, 20:00, Sun 14:30. Mon closed. Tickets
38-97.
TIPI AM KANZLERAMT
Continuing a tradition that started a century ago in Berlin,
the Tipi team wine, dine and entertain guests for an evening
in their elegant year-round tent in Tiergarten park. Before
the show starts, gourmet food is served. Then its over to
16 Berlin In Your Pocket

the artists featured that night to entertain the audience.


QE-3, Groe Querallee, Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, tel.
+49 30 39 06 65 50, www.tipi-am-kanzleramt.de. Shows
20:00, Sun 19:00. Tickets 15-45.
WINTERGARTEN VARIT
One of Berlins famed variety theatres was revived here
as a dinner theater. Seated around tables, youll enjoy a
show with acrobats, magicians, clowns, jugglers and more.
Before the show, waiters take orders for meals which are
served during the break. New shows are put on several
times per year.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 96, Tiergarten,
MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58 84 33, www.
wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat 20:00, Sun
18:00. Tickets 37,20-70,20.

THEATRE, MUSIC & DANCE


Berlin has dozens of venues for performances. Theres lots
of great theatre, but most of it is German-language; its getting better, with English plays or surtitles in some theatres.
Berlin is the world capital of contemporary dance; look for
shows by Sasha Waltz, perhaps the best choreographer
around. The Staatsballett Berlin is the main classic dance
company. Tanzraumberlin magazine (www.tanzraumberlin.
de), available at the venues, lists all dance events.
ENGLISH THEATRE BERLIN
Berlin residents, whether native English speakers or not,
come to this theatre for the edgy programming on the
little black boxs stage.QF-5, Fidicinstrae 40, Kreuzberg,
MU Platz der Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 691 12 11, tickets@
etberlin.de, www.etberlin.de. Tickets 14-18.
HALLE TANZBHNE
A monumental school gym, used for excellent modern
dance productions by the Toula Limnaios company.
QG-1, Eberswalder Strae 10-11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 44 04 42 92, www.halletanz-berlin.de. Tickets 15.
HEBBEL AM UFER (HAU)
Three small theatres (the others at Stresemannstrae 29
and Tempelhofer Ufer 10) perform experimental theatre
(often in English or mute) and dance.QF-4, Hallesches
Ufer 32, Kreuzberg, MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 259
00 40, www.hebbel-am-ufer.de. Tickets 11-18.
KOOKABURRA COMEDY CLUB
Laughing matters at this comedy club, which has
alternating English-language stand-up comedy nights
every month: Kim Eustace on the rst Tuesday, and the
interactive ComedySportz show on the second and fourth
Tuesday. Also look for Karsten Kaies show How to become
a Berliner in one hour.QG-2, Schnhauser Allee 184,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49
30 48 62 31 86, www.comedyclub.de. Tickets 5-16.
Shows Tue-Sun.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

La Bohme

Bettina St

Giacomo Puccini
4, 9, 11, 13 [2], 28, 31 [2] Dec. 2015
Conductor: Andrea Battistoni /
Donald Runnicles [11, 13 Dec.] /
Nicholas Carter [28, 31 Dec.]
Director: Gtz Friedrich
Tickets: +49 [30]-343 84 343
www.deutscheoperberlin.de

Culture & Events


WINTERGARTEN:
ATEMLOS/BREATHLESS

SHOWS
1-12 December
Nutcracker On Ice

AD

15-20 December
Irish Celtic - Sprit of Ireland

AD

26-31 December
Stomp

AD

CLASSICAL MUSIC
6 & 7 December, 20:00
Berliner Philharmoniker, Till Fellner (piano)
Conductor: Bernhard Haitink, Works by Mozart
The Wintergarten Theatre shows are inspired by a
legendary century of revue theatre in Berlin, made big
by Marlene Dietrich and other stage divas. The original
Wintergarten didnt survive the Second World War, but
the show goes on at its resurrection on Potsdamer
Strasse. The new Atemlos/Breathless show uses wellknown German and international rock songs to
accompany a dazzling variety of performances. Watch
juggler Enrico Annaev, acrobat Emily Kinch, diaboloartist David Confal, monocyclist Vitaly Ostroverhov and
the At Moonlight acrobats.
The Aladdin childrens show takes place at weekends
in December and January, presenting acrobatic acts by
the Cabuwazi childrens circus.
WINTERGARTEN VARITQPotsdamer Strae
96, Tiergarten, MU Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 58
84 33, www.wintergarten-berlin.de. Shows Wed-Sat
20:00, Sun 18:00.

QUATSCH COMEDY CLUB


Quatsch is the delicious German word for nonsense,
and theres plenty of it in the shows held in the
Friedrichstadtpalast theatre basement. Most are in German,
but look out for special guests and the regular Englishlanguage Strictly Stand Up nights. Drinks and snacks like
nachos and hot dogs are available.QF-3, Friedrichstr.
107, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrasse, tel. +49 1806 999 00
09 69, www.quatsch-comedy-club.de. Tickets 25-35.
Shows Thu-Sun.
SCHAUBHNE
Set inside a quirky former 1920s cinema, the politically and
socially engaged repertoire of this venerable ensemble theatre
ranges from classics to contemporary plays, and regularly travels
abroad, giving famed directors like Thomas Ostermeier, Falk
Richter and Katie Mitchell and actors like Lars Eidinger and Nina
Hoss the chance to shine abroad. Every month, several shows
have English and/or French surtitles. Theres a good theatre caf
with drinks and simple meals too.QB-4, Kurfrstendamm
153, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 89 00
23, www.schaubuehne.de. Tickets 7-47.
18 Berlin In Your Pocket

PH

10 December, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Manfred Honeck; Works by Bruckner, Poulenc,
MacMillan and Mozart
14 December, 20:00
PH
Wrtembergisches Kammerorchester Heilbronn
Conductor: Ruben Gazarian; Works by Purcell, Holst, Haydn,
Schumann and Dvork
15 December, 20:00
PH
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchester Berlin, Emanuel
Ax (piano)
Conductor: Tugan Sokhiev, Works by Brahms and
Schostakowitsch
17 December, 20:00
PH
Orchestra della Svizzera Italiana, Alexey Stadler
(cello)
Conductor: Vladimir Ashkenazy; Works by Prokofjew,
Tschaikowsky and Mendelssohn Bartholdy
20 December, 15:00
PH
Berliner Symphoniker, Kunwoo Paik (piano),
Christian Schmitt (organ)
Conductor: Lior Shambadal; Works by Ravel, Chopin and
Saint-Sans
21 December, 20:00
PH
Staatskapelle Berlin
Conductor: Daniel Barenboim; Works by Mozart and Bruckner
22 December, 20:00
PH
Philharmonischer Chor Berlin,
Konzerthausorchester Berlin
Conductor: Jrg-Peter Weigle: Works by Bach and
Rheinberger
23 December, 20:00
PH
Barock Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Stefan Bevier; Works by Hndel, Pachelbel,
Corelli, Bach, Albinoni and Vivaldi
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Culture & Events


23 December, 20:00
PH
Rundfunk-Sinfonieorchester Berlin, Marc-Andr
Hamelin (piano)
Conductor: Marek Janowski; Works by Franck and Brahms
25 December, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin, Guy Braunstein
(violin)
Conductor: Stanley Dodds; Works by von Weber,
Wieniawski, Dvork, Tschaikowsky, Strauss, Gershwin and
Liszt
26 December, 20:00
PH
Das Sinfonie Orchester Berlin
Conductor: Andreas Wittmann; Works by Beethoven,
Tschaikowsky, Sibelius and Ravel
29 & 30 December, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Anne-Sophie Mutter
(violin)
Conductor: Sir Simon Rattle; Works by Chabrier, SaintSans, Massenet, Ravel and Poulenc

HANS KLOK
& CIRQUE ROUGE

Someday
Jacob
12/15/2015 Privatclub 8:00 pm

01/20-22/2016 Tempodrom

SEA+AIR
01/22/2016 Lido 8:00 pm

01/25/2016 Wintergarten 8:00 pm


TICKETS: 030 / 479 974 77 | www.semmel.de

2 January, 20:00
PH
Tschechische Symphoniker Prag
Conductor: Petr Chromczk; Works by Beethoven and Or
8 & 10 January, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Sophie Koch (mezzo
soprano), Marie-Pierre Langlamet (harp)
Conductor: Christian Thielemann; Works by Chausson,
Debussy and Faur

World-famous Dutch illusionist Hans Klok baes visitors at Berlins Tempodrom from 20-22 January with
his New Houdini tour, full of spectacular tricks, magic, mystery,
glamorous ladies and wavy
hair. Visit the Wintergarten
Theatre on 25 January for
the Austrian variety show
Cirque Rouge, where you
can expect dance, acrobatics, singing, glamour, decadence and opulent costumes.
For more information and tickets see
www.semmel.de.

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

11 January, 20:00
Deutsches Symphonie-Orchster Berlin, Francesco
Piemontesi (piano)
Conductor: Andrew Manze; Brahms, Liszt and Schumann
13 January, 20:00
PH
Staatskapelle Berlin, Daniel Barenboim (piano)
Conductor: Zubin Mehta; Works by Schumann and Mahler
14 & 15 January, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Maurizio Pollini (piano)
Conductor: Christian Thielemann; Works by Schumann,
Chopin, Reimann and Strauss
21 & 22 January, 20:00
PH
Berliner Philharmoniker, Frank Peter
Zimmermann (violin), Emmanuel Pahud (flute)
Conductor: Daniel Harding; Berlioz, Lindberg, Boulez and
Schumann
December 2015 - January 2016

19

Culture & Events


1945 DEFEAT. LIBERATION.
NEW BEGINNING.

9 December, 20:00
Peaches (Rock/Pop)

HX

9 December, 20:00
The Sisters of Mercy (Rock)

CH

14 December, 20:00
Sophie Hunger (Singer/Songwriter)

HX

EXHIBITIONS

In devastated Warsaw, 16 January 1945, Photo: Boris Puschkin


Stiftung Deutsches Historisches Museum

The Second World War ended in Europe on the 8th of


May 1945 with the capitulation of the Wehrmacht. Six
years of war had cost the lives of millions of victims
and brought with it a previously unknown degree of
destruction. The Second World War ended in Europe
on the 8th of May 1945 with the capitulation of the
Wehrmacht. Six years of war had cost the lives of
millions of victims and brought a previously unknown
degree of destruction. War and occupation, crimes,
expulsions and forced resettlement had left a lasting
mark on the countries and populations involved.
On the occasion of the 70th anniversary of the
German capitulation, the exhibition 1945 Defeat.
Liberation. New Beginning. Twelve European
countries after the Second World War until 10 January,
concentrates on the situation in which the societies and
political systems in those countries found themselves
at the end of the war as well as on the most important
upheavals of the post-war period. In addition, it sheds
light on the everyday lives of the people. Thirtysix juxtaposed biographies form the basis for an
investigation of the consequences of the war years
for the people without qualifying or weighing the
experiences or the suering of the dierent individuals
against one another.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM, Unter
den Linden 2, tel. +49 30 20 30 40, www.dhm.de.
English tour of the exhibition every Friday at 14:00.

25 January, 20:00
Daniil Trifonov (piano)
Works by Bach, Chopin and Rachmaninow

PH

20 Berlin In Your Pocket

Whats going on?


facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket
Until 3 January 2016
DH
Everyday unification - portrait of a society in
transition
Two societies that have been strictly seperated for more
than forty years have been growing together since 1990.
This exhibition focuses on the everyday life of Germanys
union and the peoples experience of it, as well as the
historically unprecedented transformation of the entire
political, economic, social and cultural fabric.
Until 25 January
GG
The Botticelli Renaissance
The works of Florentine painter Sandro Botticelli (14451510), one of the most important painters of the Italian
Renaissance, are part of the collective visual memory.
Until 31 January
CO
Anton Corbijn
A retrospective of the work of the internationally renowned
Dutch photographer and director Anton Corbijn,
encompassing around 600 photographs and tracing
Corbijns evolution from self-taught novice to a celebrated
and inuential photographer including photographs
of bands and musicians such as the Rolling Stones, U2,
Nirvana, Nick Cave, Tom Waits, etc.

TRADE FAIRS

CONCERTS
7 December, 20:00
Maxmo Park (Rock/Pop)

Until 6 December
MG
Piet Mondrian. The Line
With his characteristic compositions of rectangles and black
lines, Piet Mondrian (18721944) is regarded as one of the
founders of abstract painting, a master of the composition
of coloured areas. Through his method of strict reduction
to the basic elements of painting, Mondrian created icons
of classic modernism.

KB

15-24 January
MB
International Green Week Berlin
Exhibition for the food, agricultural and horticultural
industries
Info: www.gruenewoche.de
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
Between Mitte and Charlottenburg, the huge Tiergarten
park began as the Great Electors hunting grounds in the
1600s. Trac passes through it, doing a dosey-doe around
the Siegessule victory column. The Strae des 17. Juni
leads east to the Brandenburger Tor; just south of it are the
state museums of the Kulturforum and the Potsdamer Platz
district with its soaring corporate buildings.
GETTING THERE
Arrivals by plane and train usually end up at Hauptbahnhof
station, central for the city but not really close to anything.
S-Bahn trains from the top level link to the east and west
of the city, while the fancy new two-stop U55 U-Bahn line
takes sightseers straight to Brandenburger Tor.
POCKET WALK
Start o at Brandenburger Tor and the Reichstag before
heading south past the Holocaust memorial and Potsdamer
Platz to the Topographie des Terrors exhibition and the
adjacent stretch of Berlin Wall. Follow Zimmerstrae for
the Stasi Exhibition and Checkpoint Charlie. Walk north
along Friedrichstrae and turn right at Mohrenstrae for
Gendarmenmarkt square, before ambling to Unter den
Linden via Bebelplatz. Walk east past the Neue Wache and
Berliner Dom, turn left into Spandauer Strae, and pass
through Hackescher Markt station. Visit the Hackesche
Hfe complex before walking down Oranienburger Strae
for the Neue Synagoge. You can catch the S-Bahn from here
back to Brandenburger Tor.

Since reunication, the old city centre district Mitte


(meaning middle) has rightly snatched back the title of
most-visited district from Charlottenburg. On and o the
boulevard Unter den Linden are baroque and classical
monuments to Prussian culture. The architecturally
humbler but more neighbourhood-like Scheunenviertel
area allows the casually chic to saunter from courtyard
gallery to sidewalk caf. Only traces are left of the Jewish
community that lived here from the late 17th century,
welcomed by the Great Elector Friedrich Wilhelm.

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December 2015 - January 2016

21

Mitte
Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
ALPENSTUECK
Wiener Schnitzel with Schwabian potato salad,
Maultaschen with Bavarian creme are just a few of the
dishes available at Alpenstueck, a designer restaurant with
a traditional twist. The chef prepares southern German and
Austrian home cooking with fresh ingredients, changing
the menu every three days. A feast for the eyes and the
palate.QF-2, Gartenstrae 9, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof,
tel. +49 30 21 75 16 46, www.alpenstueck.de. Open
18:00-01:00. . TUGBS
JOSEPH ROTH DIELE
A wonderfully cosy dark brown bar owned by the same
people who run the Ave Maria religious shop, right next
door to Joseph. Its named after a prolic Jewish writer
whose quotes decorate the walls and who lived nearby
in the 1920s when this street was the beating heart of
Berlins nightlife. A nicely-priced lunch and delicious
Flammkuchen pies are served, and its a great place for
a beer or wine after a show at the Wintergarten Variet,
opposite.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 75, Tiergarten, MU
Kurfrstenstrae, tel. +49 30 26 36 98 84, www.josephroth-diele.de. Open 10:00-24:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
TENGBSW
MUTTER HOPPE
Head down the winding staircase into this restaurant in the
Nikolaiviertel district. Youll nd the space divided into cosy,
low-ceilinged nooks with upholstered banquettes and
historic photos and drawings on the painted walls. Heavy
meat dishes are the meals to order here. The kitchen oers
sides not served at other German restaurants, including
green beans wrapped in bacon. Make reservations; or try
their sister restaurant Julchen Hoppe, a few doors further
towards the Spree.QG-3, Rathausstrae 21, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 241 56 25, www.prostmahlzeit.
de/mutterhoppe. Open 11:30-24:00. . TEGB

BACK TO SCHOOL
The Die Schule restaurant in the Prenzlauer Berg district
is not just a place for trying German cuisine. Its the
watering hole for adult students from all around the
world who are learning German at the GLS language
school, in the same complex. Theyre greatly helped by
the location of the school in a vibrant neighbourhood
with plenty of bars, restaurants and quirky boutiques.
DIE SCHULEQKastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg,
tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.gls-restaurant.de.
GLS LANGUAGE SCHOOLQtel. +49 30 78 00 89
27, www.gls-berlin.de.
22 Berlin In Your Pocket

RESTAURATION 1840
Located in a vaulted space under the S-Bahn tracks, this
traditional Berlin restaurant designed to recall the golden
1920s serves regionally sourced international cuisine, 1840
creations, including local favourites such as Slze (cold
knuckle), Buletten (meatballs) and Currywurst sausage. There
are good seasonal wines, and the bar sta can shake up a great
cocktail.QG-3, Am Zwirngraben 8-10, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 24 72 74 01, post@berlin-1840.de, www.
berlin-1840.de. Open from 10:00. EGBW
ROTISSERIE WEINGRN
Set inside the only pre-1900 house remaining in what was
once Berlins old town, Weingrns fresh and simple interior
is a great place to sample regional grill dishes such as
Brandenburg duck and roast Saalow herb pig. The cellar is
stocked with wines from the owners own vineyards in the
Pfalz. The restaurant oers good views over the Spree canal.
QG-4, Gertraudenstrae 10-12, Mitte, MU Spittelmarkt,
tel. +49 30 20 62 19 00, www.rotisserie-weingruen.de.
Open 17:00-23:00. Closed Sun. . TUGBSW
SCHWARZWALDSTUBEN
Bambi meets Berlin chic at the trendy Black Forest
themed Schwarzwaldstuben, which has a friendly
atmosphere, bedraggled animal heads mounted on
the walls and heavy mix-matched furniture. Regional
treats include Maultaschen (ravioli-like pockets in broth)
and Schnitzel.QF-3, Tucholskystrae 48, Mitte, MU
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 09 80 84, www.
schwarzwaldstuben-berlin.com. Open 09:00-24:00. .
TUNBS
WEIHENSTEPHANER
The one eatery on the sunny square that delivers a hey, this
is Germany! experience. The Weihenstephaner brewery
restaurant has dirndel-clad waitresses who serve simple
and satisfying Bavarian specialities (like white sausages).
The outdoor tables have typical blue-and-white checked
tablecloths; inside, the rooms are rustic but elegant.QG-3,
Neue Promenade 5, Mitte, MS/U Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 84 71 07 60, www.weihenstephaner-berlin.de.
Open 11:00-01:00. . TUEGB
ZILLE-STUBE
The name is in homage to Berlin artist Heinrich Zille, whose
illustrations line the walls above upholstered banquettes
and wooden banisters. Dominating the menu are typical
Berlin meat dishes like Boulette, Kohlroulade (beafstued cabbage leaves), Sauerbraten (marinated pot
roast) and Rostbratwurst.QG-3, Spreeufer 3, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242 52 47, www.zillestubenikolaiviertel.de. Open 12:00-22:00. . E
ZUM NUSSBAUM
What seems a charming old restaurant is in fact a charming
new restaurant. The legendary Under the Nut Tree Inn used
to stand on Fischerinsel island, 200m to the southwest.
When the war-ravaged area was rebuilt in the 1980s, the
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
inn was reconstructed here. Most patrons dont care for
authenticity, and tuck into the well-priced Berlin specialities
with curious translations, such as brown rolls with dripping.
QG-3, Am Nussbaum 3, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel.
+49 30 242 30 95. Open from 12:00. . GB
ZUR LETZTEN INSTANZ
Berlins oldest restaurant doesnt lie on the tourist path,
and maybe thats why German leaders bring visiting
heads of state here when everything in Mitte is too
noisy and crowded. Mikhail Gorbachev visited in 1989,
and Gerhard Schrder brought Jacques Chirac over for
the Berlin specialities, including Eisbein, in 2003.QG-3,
Waisenstrae 14-16, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49
30 242 55 28, www.zurletzteninstanz.de. Open 12:0001:00. Closed Sun. . GBS

ASIAN
KAMALA
Respectable Thai cuisine is served in a colonial atmosphere,
where heavy, dark wood tables are adorned with woven
placements, orchids and tall candles. The Tom Yam Gai
soup is crowded with chicken and piping hot, and the
curries are rich and buttery.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae
69, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 283 27
97, www.kamala-thaifood.de. Open 12:00-23:30, Fri, Sat
12:00-24:00, Sun 11:00-23:30. . AB
MONSIEUR VUONG
Hanoi and Saigon have landed in a chic little red Vietnamese
restaurant in Mitte. There are only ve dishes and two daily
specials, but theyre so delicious youll be ordering a second
bowl of rice to soak up the leftover sauce. After your gi
bo, try some jasmin or artichoke tea. Youll have to ght
the ber-cool crowds for a table as Mr. Vuong doesnt take
reservations.QG-2, Alte Schnhauser Strae 46, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 99 29 69 24, www.
monsieurvuong.de. Open 12:00-24:00. . S

FINE DINING
AIGNER
One of Berlins best places to eat, Aigner is truly international,
as its name, concept and all the old furnishings originate
from a famous Viennese caf that closed in the 1980s. Master
chef Herbert Beltle and his team serve award-winning dishes
with ingredients sourced fresh from the market.QF-3,
Franzsische Strae 25, Mitte, MU Franzsiche Strae,
tel. +49 30 203 75 18 50, www.aigner-gendarmenmarkt.
de. Open 12:00-02:00. . TUGBSW
BORCHARDT
Borchardt didnt have to invest much to make a good
rst impression - the mere height of the ceiling and the
buildings original tile oors whisper class and luxury. The
money and creative energy goes into the kitchen, which
comes up with a dierent menu each day to keep its
regular clientele surprised. Leave the pork to the Germans,
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

FOOD WITH A VIEW


KFER DACHGARTEN
When time is money, you may as well spend it on a
good meal while visiting the Reichstag dome. Make
a reservation to be whisked up to your meal and a
180-degree view of eastern Berlin. German specialities
are highlighted and a regional name appears in most
main course listings. Last orders are taken at 21:30.
Bring ID to get into the buidling.QF-3, Platz der
Republik 1,Tiergarten, MS/U Brandenburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 22 62 99 33, www.feinkost-kaefer.de.
Open 09:00 - 10:15, 12:00-16:30, 18:30-24:00. .
AB
PANORAMA CAF
The 1930s-style caf at
the top of the popular
Potsdamer Platz viewing
point has large windows
and an open terrace with
great views over Berlin,
and serves coee, cakes
and other snacks.QE-4,
Potsdamer Platz 1,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 93
70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 11:00-19:00,
Nov-Mar 11:00-17:00. Tower admission 6,50/5, family
ticket 15,50.
the beef dishes here are delectable.QF-3, Franzsische
Strae 47, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30
81 88 62 62, www.borchardt-restaurant.de. Open from
11:00. . GB
FACIL
At the Mandala Hotels Michelin-starred gourmet restaurant,
chef de cuisine Michael Kempf creates elegantly light fare
using only fresh, local products direct from the market.
The menu changes daily and has an emphasis on tasty
vegetables and exotic herbs. Facils design is a post-modern,
glass-box Asian pavilion with a large central skylight that
retracts.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 3, Tiergarten, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 590 05 12 34, www.facil.de.
Open . Closed Sat, Sun, Open 12:00 - 15:00, 19:00 - 23:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. . UGBW h
FISCHERS FRITZ
The restaurants name comes from a tongue-twister and
the light, sh-focused menu is for a very rened palate. Chef
Christian Lohse has won several of the Michelin stars that
appear none too oft in Germany. The German chef rst trained
in Dijon and has since pleased gourmands such as those at The
Dorchester in London and the Sultan of Brunei (as a private
chef). The dining room has light woods, deep carpets and a
replace.QF-3, Charlottenstrae 49, Mitte, MU Franzsische
Strae, tel. +49 30 20 33 63 63, www.fischersfritzberlin.com.
Open 12:00-14:00; 18:30-23:00. . PAG hh
December 2015 - January 2016

23

Mitte
LUTTER & WEGNER
Classy, traditional, and with a link to the actor who put the
sparkle in German wine in 1811, this is the place to share a
bottle of Sekt before or after a concert at the Konzerthaus
on Gendarmenmarkt. Theres a warren of rooms in which
to carve out a cosy niche. Germans know their roasts,
and you can trust the national committee that dubbed
the Sauerbraten here the best in Germany in 2003.QF-3,
Charlottenstrae 56, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae,
tel. +49 30 202 95 40, www.l-w-berlin.de. Open 11:0003:00. Closed Sun, The warm kitchen closes at 01:00
while the Weinstube serves cold dishes until 03:00. .
AB

TRAUBE
In an elegant building with an interior by Hans Kolho, The
Grape serves gourmet cuisine together with an excellent
range of wines. Dishes are often Alpine-inspired: crossover food from southern Germany, Alsace, Switzerland and
Austria. Guests can choose from a la carte dishes or compose
their own menus, with or without wines. The two-course
set lunch menu is great value.QF-2, Reinhardtstrae 33,
Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 27 87 93 93,
www.traube-berlin.de. Open 12:00-15:00, 18:00-23:45,
Sat 18:00-23:45. Closed Sun. . TGB

PARIS-MOSKAU
Many train passengers rolling into Hauptbahnhof station on the line between Paris and Moscow - have wondered
about this unusual half-timber house, stubbornly
positioned between new government oces and hotels.
Inside, a wonderful gourmet restaurant has been serving
up up al la carte and set menu meals for 30 years now.
Expect dishes such as a rack of lamb in Dijon herb crust,
tuna steak and roast duck breast. On weekdays, theres a
lunch menu as well.QE-3, Alt-Moabit 141, Tiergarten,
MS/U Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 394 20 81, www.
paris-moskau.de. Open 12:00-15:00; 18:00-24:00, Sat,
Sun 18:00-24:00. . A

COCOLO
A completely authentic Japanese ramen noodle soup
restaurant, complete with an open kitchen emitting clouds
of fragrant steam, cramped conditions on shared benches
and a line of hungry waiting guests. Start o with a bowl of
salty green beans, choose from ve delicious broths, have
an Asahi beer and remember to slurp.QG-2, Gipsstrae 3,
Mitte, MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 172 304 75
84. Open 18:00-24:00. . GB

INDIAN
AAPKA
Located on a pretty street corner near Zionskirchplatz,
Aapka oers healthy vegetarian, curry and grill dishes. You
can drop by for the lunch menu and on Sunday join the
young Prenzl Berg crowd for a relaxed brunch - or drop by
later for cocktails.QG-2, Kastanienallee 50, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 04 94,
www.aapka.de. Open 12:00-01:00, Sun 11:00-01:00. .
B

INTERNATIONAL
NOLAS AM WEINBERG
This hip restaurant overlooks a sloping park. The
predominantly Swiss menu lends itself to the terrace,
which is perfect for pretending to be in the mountain air of
St. Moritz. Breakfast is served until 16:00 and you can order
meals until midnight.QG-2, Veteranenstrae 9, Mitte,
MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04 07 66, www.
nola.de. Open 10:00-01:00. . TUGBS
REINHARDS
Reinhards friendly sta can whisk a coee to your table
in no time, or if youre here for the food, one of the light
meals. The large restaurant is situated in the Nikolaiviertel,
and is well-positioned for a break during a city walk.QG-3,
Poststrae 28, Mitte, MU Klosterstrae, tel. +49 30 242
52 95, www.reinhards.de. Open 09:00-24:00. -.
TGBS
24 Berlin In Your Pocket

JAPANESE

SUSHI CIRCLE
This sushi bar caters less to the guests of the upscale hotels
in the area and more to shoppers and oce workers on the
go. If youre not quick enough to grab the pieces passing
by on the bars conveyor belt, be patient and it will circle
around again. If not, ask the sushi chef stuck in the middle
to whip a request o for you.QF-3, Franzsische Strae
48, Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 650
60, www.sushi-circle.de. Open 11:00-23:00, Sun 16:0023:00. .

SPANISH
YOSOY TAPAS-BAR
Amongst the slick urban restaurants of Mitte, this intimatesized tapas bar with beautiful tile work and a Spanish sta
is one of the few to proudly show its roots. High stools
and an open storefront give you a nice vantage point
from which to watch the crowds owing towards the

CASINO
SPIELBANK BERLIN
The casino at Potsdamer Platz has French roulette,
American roulette, baccarat, poker, blackjack, Sic
Bo, bingo roulette and slot machines. Upstairs, the
restaurant and Baccara Bar serves drinks and food from
the a la carte menu. Newcomers to the game can book
a tour including game instructions.QE-4, MarleneDietrich-Platz 1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz,
tel. +49 30 25 59 90, www.spielbank-berlin.de.
Open 11:00 - 05:00. Admission 2,50. Minimum age
is 18, ID required; dress code is smart casual.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
Hackescher Hfe.QG-3, Rosenthaler Strae 37, Mitte,
MU Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 912 13, www.
yosoy.de. Open 11:00-02:00. . PAB

CAFS
BARCOMIS DELI
Barcomis is well known for its house-roasted coee and
luscious American hand-made baked goods. In the cake
window there are several kinds of cheese cake, lemon
meringue cake, devils food cake, pecan pie and other
heavenly creations. Bagels can be eaten with Philly cream
cheese spreads, and at this Mitte outlet there are also
salads, sandwiches and soups. The Kreuzberg Kaeersterei
outlet (Bergmannstrae 21) has fresh coee.QF-5,
Sophienstrae 21, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 28 59 83 63, info@barcomis.de, www.barcomis.de.
Open 09:00 - 21:00, Sun 10:00 - 21:00. . TGBS
SOPHIENECK
A favourite of locals and tourists alike, Sophieneck is one of
the most charming cafs in Mitte. Located near Hackescher
Markt since the revamp of the district in 1984, it has resisted
trendication, staying true to its warm mishmash decor
of art nouveau and poster art. The menu oers delicious
Central European fare, accompanied by an international wine
list.QG-2/3, Groe Hamburger Strae 37, Mitte, MU
Weinmeisterstrae, tel. +49 30 283 40 65, www.sophieneckberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00, Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00.
THE DIGITAL EATERY
Just a click away from Brandenburg Gate, inside the
historical 1902 Carlton Hotel building, Microsofts very rst
caf showroom worldwide is a relaxing, untouristy spot
to recharge. Browse the small but excellent selection of
pasta or meat dishes prepared fresh at the counter (8,90),
or the soup, paninis and cakes. Recharge your electronic
devices or use the free wi. Best of all are the digital toys
that allow you to go online, try out Microsoft products or
play Xbox games.QF-3, Unter den Linden 17, Mitte, tel.
+49 30 39 09 70, www.digitaleatery.de. Open 09:00 19:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 18:00. W

Nightlife
BARS
AUFSTURZ
The great 19th-century explorer Alexander von Humboldt
lived in this building, but nowadays the only expeditions
done here are through the long drinks menu, listing dozens
of excellent Belgian, German and other beers. Have a Kwak
beer to really kick o your night. Prices are reasonable
and the place looks good, with changing modern art
exhibitions on the walls. Our favourite Oranienburger
Strae haunt.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 67, Mitte, MS
Oranienburger Strae, tel. +49 30 28 04 74 07, kontakt@
aufsturz.de, www.aufsturz.de. Open from 12:00. EB
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

EASTWOOD BERLIN-MITTE
A high-end lounge bar and weekend club nearby
Gendarmenmarkt, with a glamorous modern interior by local
designer Emell Gk Che, a regularly changing cocktail menu, and
champagne. The club part is open on weekend nights, when
DJs pump out house, lounge, electro and jazz sounds - use the
VIP table service to make the night complete.QRosmarinstr.
8, Mitte, tel. +49 30 20 67 90 54, reservierung@eastwoodberlin.de, www.eastwood-berlin.de. Open 20:00 - 03:00.
Closed Sun. Club open Fri/Sat 23:00-06:00. W
ESCHSCHLORAQUE RMSCHRMP
An island of insanity in a sea of overpriced Hackescher
Markt pomp: this veritable den of delights and monsters
can be found hidden at the dark end of a gratied
courtyard. There are disturbing metal beasts sticking from
the crumbling walls, aordable beers and cocktails, a stage,
plenty of smoke, and a wonderful set of characters intent on
having a good night out. In summer, the outdoor cinema in
the back yard shows foreign lms in original version.QG-3,
Rosenthaler Strae 39, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
post@eschschloraque.de,
www.eschschloraque.de.
Open 14:00 - open end Open from 14:00. ENBW
MEIN HAUS AM SEE
Its all about seeing and being seen at some Mitte bars; the
My Lake House makes it very easy with its large slope of
seating steps overlooking a landscape of granny furniture
lit up by discoball sparkles and all draped with nattering
locals and backpackers from adjacent hostels. Open 24/7,
its a cafe, bar and restaurant all at the same time. On
the menu are drinks, exotic coee varieties and chilli hot
choc, as well as great breakfasts (till 18:00), tasty burgers,
pasta dishes and snacks. At night, DJs spin music.QG-2,
Brunnenstrae 197, Mitte, MU Rosenthaler Platz, tel.
+49 30 27 59 08 73, info@mein-haus-am-see.com,
www.mein-haus-am-see.blogspot.de. Open 24 hours
Open 24/7. . TUENGBSW
REINGOLD
A lounge glowing in amber tones recalls the thirties with
an oversize drawing of Thomas Manns forlorn ospring,
Klaus and Erika, and leather and velvet seating. Though it
often has a DJ, no one dances here. Its a setting for making
stationary moves on your date, or your tapas.QF-2,
Novalisstrae 11, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49
30 28 38 76 76, info@reingold.de, www.reingold.de.
Open 19:00 - 02:00, Fri, Sat 19:00 - 04:00. Closed Mon,
Sun Open from 19:00. Closed Mon, Sun. UB

CLUBS
GRNER SALON
Chandeliers dress up this occasional club venue, talk-show
stage, and cabaret. Grab your partner for standard evenings
like Thursday Tango and Friday Swing.QG-2, Volksbhne,
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte, MU Rosa-LuxemburgPlatz, tel. +49 30 24 59 89 36, www.gruener-salon.de.
Open Thu 21:00 - 04:00; Fri, Sat 23:00 - 04:00.
December 2015 - January 2016

25

Mitte
KAFFEE BURGER
The patterned wallpaper and wood panelling has withstood
decades of the alternative scenes smoke and its stuck-inthe-Socialist-Sixties-look is perfect for DJ/author Vladimir
Kaminers wild and sweaty Russendisko nights. Happenings
like poetry slams and jams start evenings that end with
DJs spinning anything from Balkan and surf rock to samba.
QG-2, Torstrae 60, Mitte, MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz,
tel. +49 30 28 04 64 95, www.kaffeeburger.de. Open
from 21:00. E
ROTER SALON
This place probably began with a faded elegance, but lets
say its just settled in after ten years of clubbers bouncing
o its red walls. Most nights feature electro pop, electro
lounge, and electroclash - the music Berlin is known for.
QG-2, Volksbhne, Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz 2, Mitte,
MU Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz, tel. +49 30 417 175 12,
www.roter-salon-berlin.de. Open 22:00 - 04:00. Closed
Tue, Sun.
WEEK-END CLUB
A club, bar, gallery and lounge set on the 12th oor of the
beautifully hideous Haus des Reisens (the GDR state travel
agency specialising in saying no) on the corner of OttoBraun-Strae.QG-3, Alexanderplatz 5, Mitte, MS/U
Alexanderplatz, www.week-end-berlin.de. Open ThuSat 23:00-04:00.

PUBS
KILKENNY IRISH PUB
The three large rooms within the Hackescher Markt S-Bahn
station oer more than enough space for natives and
tourists to eat homemade food, meet and mingle, party
and follow live sports events. Large TVs and screens make
sure that you wont miss a single goal. Irish and German
beer, whiskey and other cold beverages ow freely.QG-3,
Am Zwirngraben 17-20, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt,
tel. +49 30 283 20 84, info@kilkenny-pub.de, www.
kilkenny-pub.de. Open from 12:00. EGBW

Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
BRANDENBURGER TOR
Berlins landmark monument, built by Carl Langhans
in 1792, is the last remaining of 14 city gates. Nike, the
goddess of victory, drives the four-horsepower chariot
atop the gate. German armies used to begin their parades
here, the fascists spoiled the gate by staging their torch-lit
marches through it, the war badly damaged it, and then the
Wall essentially bricked the patched-up gate in for decades.
Berliners celebrated the Walls fall in 1989 by standing on it
in front of the gate, and after renovations the gate is the
proud focus point of the renewed square again.QF-3,
Pariser Platz, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor.
26 Berlin In Your Pocket

NEUE SYNAGOGE
The gilded cupola of the New Synagogue is one of the most
eye-catching sights in Mitte. Exhibits strikingly balance
the restoration of the Alhambra-inspired synagogue from
1866, with preserved evidence of its destruction, rst
on Kristallnacht on November 9, 1938, and then through
Allied bombs. Documents and photographs remember the
thriving Jewish community of the neighbourhood, many of
whom worshipped here in what was the largest synagogue
in Germany. A subtle but eective sound installation adds
to the experience.QF-3, Oranienburger Strae 28-30,
Mitte, MS Oranienburger Tor, tel. +49 30 88 02 83 00,
www.centrumjudaicum.de. Open Sun, Mon 10:0020:00, Tues-Thur 10:00-18:00, Fri 10:00-17:00; Mar & Oct
until 14:00 on Fri; Nov-Feb also Sun-Thu until 18:00. Sat
closed. Admission 3,50/3.
NIKOLAIVIERTEL
Berlins tiny medieval heart is the Nikolai Quarter,
whose only truly medieval-looking building today is the
Nikolaikirche. The church dates to 1230 and was rebuilt
along with the entire quarter in the 1980s to mark Berlins
750th birthday in the area in which the shermens
settlement rst began. No one was trying to outdo Walt
Disney here, and many of the buildings have the simple,
concrete facades that the GDR government could aord.
The small shops in the area mostly deal in toys and
souvenirs and tourists gladly ll the sunny tables at the
restaurants that face the river. On Rathausstrae, theres
a row of restaurants that aunt old-fashioned Berlin
cuisine and atmosphere. Other rebuilt historic buildings
in the area date to the 1700s, such as the EphraimPalais and Knoblauchhaus. Both have changing exhibits
related to Berlin.QG-3, Nikolaikirchplatz, Mitte, MU
Klosterstrae, www.stadtmuseum.de.
POTSDAMER PLATZ
Once a busy intersection at the modern heart of a thriving
metropolis, Potsdamer Platz was heavily damaged in the
war, and suered again when most remaining buildings
were demolished to make way for the Walls death strip.
Hotel and oce skyscrapers now add a cosmopolitan edge
to the city, while to the east Leipziger Platz is almost rebuilt.
The most popular public space and architectural attraction
is the Sony Center, with its huge atrium and tent-like
roof, best viewed at night for its impressive lighting.
The neighbouring DaimlerChrysler complex holds
architecture by Renzo Piano and Richard Rogers, and the
Arkaden shopping mall.QE/F-4, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.
REICHSTAG
The name together with its monumental size make most
people associate Germanys neoclassical parliamentary
building with the Nazis, but they have little history here. After
hosting parliamentary sessions since 1894, it was set on re
just one month after Hitler was appointed chancellor in
January 1933. It was a conference centre in the years during
which it abutted the Wall, while later artist Christo famously
wrapped it in cloth. It was used as parliament again after a
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
Schtzenstr. 70 | Berlin-Mitte
(Nhe Checkpoint Charlie)
www.currywurstmuseum.com

Anfahrt | Directions
U6 (Kochstr. | Checkpoint Charlie)
U6 / U2 (Stadtmitte)

EINE AUSSTELLUNG ZUM


ANFASSEN. (AUS)PROBIEREN. MITMACHEN.
TOUCHING. TESTING. TAKE PART.
reunited German government returned to Berlin in 1999.
Renovated by Sir Norman Foster, this building is perhaps
the most public federal building in the world through its
glass dome. On the rooftop, photographs documenting
the buildings history circle the rim above the parliament
chamber. Two ramps spiral up the side of the dome,
an engineering feat even more fascinating than the
panoramic view from the top. Its best to book an entry
time to the dome or for the 90-minute guided tour of
the building in advance online; otherwise queue up
for remaining places at the visitor centre just across the
road. Photo ID is required.QF-3, Platz der Republik 1,
Tiergarten, MU Bundestag, www.bundestag.de/
htdocs_e/visits. Open 08:00 - 23:00 Prebooked rooftop
access every 15 minutes. Guided tours at 09:00, 10:30,
12:00, 13:30, 15:30, 17:00, 18:30, 20:00. Admission free.

CHURCHES
BERLINER DOM
The fourth incarnation of this Protestant church dating
from 1905 might not look as massive if the Stadtschloss
were still standing across Unter den Linden (the GDR
regime demolished the castle in 1951). The royal
Hohenzollern dynasty worshipped and was buried here.
The climb up to the domes rim is forgiving, with broad
staircases, side exhibit rooms and good views.QG-3,
Am Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 20 26 91 36, www.berlinerdom.de. Open 09:00 20:00, Sun 12:00 - 20:00 Oct-March open until 19:00.
Admission 7/4.

DEUTSCHER DOM
The baroque German Church from 1701 was completed
with an impressive domed tower in 1785; badly damaged
by re in the war it was only renovated in the 1980s.
Owned by the state, the bare interior now houses an
exhibition about the development of parliamentarian
democracy in Germany - and how it came to fail so
tragically in the last century. Be sure to see the views from
the windows and the impressive building models on the
top oor. Free tours in English are possible throughout the
day; no booking is required for individual visitors.QF-3,
Gendarmenmarkt 1, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30
22 73 04 31, www.bundestag.de/kulturundgeschichte/
ausstellungen/wege. Open 10:00 - 19:00. Closed Mon.
Admission free.
FRANZSISCHER DOM
The northernmost domed tower in the Gendermenmarkts
grand architectural triptych dates back to 1785, and
similarly to its counterpart was badly damaged in the
war. It now has regular concerts in the simple baroque
Friedrichstadtkirche church to the rear. Enter from the
other side for the Huguenot museum (in German and
French only), dedicated to the thousands of French
protestants who moved to Berlin in the 17th century.
Yet another entrance leads to the viewing balcony at 40
metres above street level, with great views all around.
QF-3, Gendarmenmarkt 5, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel.
+49 30 20 64 99 22, www.franzoesischer-dom.de. Open
12:00-17:00, viewing balcony 10:00-19:00, closed Mon.
Admission 2/1, viewing balcony 2.50/1.

EXHIBITION BLACKBOX COLD WAR


Checkpoint Charlie
Friedrichstrae 47 / corner Zimmerstrae | 10117 Berlin-Mitte
Daily 10 a.m. to 6 p.m.
Visitors service info@bfgg.de
More information www.zentrum-kalter-krieg.de

HERE, CONTEMPORARY HISTORY COMES ALIVE


facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

December 2015 - January 2016

27

Mitte
MUSEUMSINSEL
The cluster of majestic nineteenth century neoclassic
buildings on the tip of the island in the Spree oers
the avid or the temperate museum-goer a number of
impressive collections of art, history and ethnology,
covering many facets of ancient and oriental culture, as
well as their cross-overs into modernity.
ALTE NATIONALGALERIE
Czanne, Rodin, Monet, Degas and Liebermann are
some of the artists whose works hang around this
museum of 19th-century art. The temple-like structure
itself was built in 1876, and is surrounded by a beautifully
battered colonnade.QG-3, Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS
Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, www.
smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
ALTES MUSEUM
This neoclassic building by Prussias star architect
Schinkel was custom-made in 1830 for the art collection
of the royal Hohenzollerns. Classical antiquities were
the focus, and today the museum uses pottery and
sculptures to take you on a well-presented tour through
ancient Etruscan, Greek and Roman history.QG-3, Am
Lustgarten, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30

MEMORIALS
FHRERBUNKER
One lonely signpost mark the site where Hitler committed
suicide on April 30, 1945. For the last month of his life, Hitler
lived roughly eight meters below ground in an air-raid
shelter topped by a four-metre-thick, reinforced concrete
ceiling. The unremarkable spot can be reached by walking
to the end of In den Ministergrten, o Ebertstrae. A
parking area surrounded by a pre-fabricated apartment
complex covers the location, which was entirely sealed o
during the complexs construction in 1988-89. The bunker
was once accessed through the Festsaal (ballroom) behind
the Reichskanzler-Palais on Wilhelmstrae.QF-3, In den
Ministergrten, Mitte, MS/U Potsdamer Platz.

28 Berlin In Your Pocket

266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00,


Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10/5.
NEUES MUSEUM
Built in 1855, damaged in the war and only restored
in 2009, the New Museum is new again and is full of
ancient art. The excellent Egyptian Museum and Papyrus
Collection are housed here, with spectacular nds
such as the famous busts of Queen Nefertiti and King
Echnaton. The Pre- and Early History collection has nds
from ancient Troy and Lycopolis to medieval Germany.
One room exhibits eleven rediscovered statues that were
considered to be degenerate art by the Nazis.QG-3,
Bodestrae 1-3, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49
30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
PERGAMON MUSEUM
The Pergamon museum is undergoing major
renovations, with the north wing and the hall with
the famous Pergamon Altar closed until 2019. Visitors
can still see the market gate of Miletus, the amazing
blue-tiled Ishtar Gate and processional way from
Babylon, and the museum of Islamic Art.QG-3, Am
Kupfergraben, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel.
+49 30 266 42 42 42, www.smb.museum. Open
10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Admission 12/6.
MEMORIAL TO THE MURDERED JEWS
OF EUROPE
This bluntly named memorial avoids any vagueness
surrounding the term Holocaust. Six million Jews are
estimated to have been killed by the Nazis and this site
serves as Germanys national memorial to those victims. The
design by American architect Peter Eisenmann is a eld of
2,700 concrete stelae, or pillars, of varying height, creating
an undulating landscape that lls two city blocks. The
memorial has an undergound information centre which is
not suitable for children.QF-3, Cora-Berliner-Strae 1,
Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 26 39 43 36,
besucherservice@stiftung-denkmal.de, www.stiftungdenkmal.de. Information centre open 10:00-20:00, OctMar 10:00-19:00. Closed Mon. Admission free.

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
MUSEUMS
BLACK BOX COLD WAR
The exhibition at Checkpoint Charlie discusses the state of
the world during the Cold War, explaining the global links
between the Berlin Wall, the Korean War and the Cuban
missile crisis. Along the street a free gallery of photos and
texts highlights the main events that took place here.
QF-4, Friedrichstrae 47, Mitte, tel. +49 30 216 35
71, info@bfgg.de, www.bfgg.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00.
Admission 5/3,50.
DEUTSCHES CURRYWURST MUSEUM
According to the myth, currywurst is Berlins very own
fast-food creation. A spicy sausage snack that rst became
popular in the late 1940s, these days currywurst can be
found at train stations and street corners across the city.
This quirky museum explains the colourful history of this
culinary creation. Theres a shop with sausage accessories
and you can taste currywurst too.QF-4, Schtzenstrae
70, Mitte, MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 88 71 86 47, www.
currywurstmuseum.com. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Admission
11/8,50, Mon 20% less.
DAIMLER CONTEMPORARY BERLIN
Inside the Haus Huth, the last remaining pre-war building
on Potsdamer Platz, selected works from the Daimler
companys art collection is presented in four well-curated
exhibitions per year. The collection has mainly abstract
artworks from the 20th century until now, and a few of the
larger sculptures are on permanent display in the streets
around the museum.QE-4, Alte Potsdamer Strae 5,
Tiergarten, tel. +49 30 25 94 14 20, www.sammlung.
daimler.com. Open 11:00 - 18:00. Admission free.
DDR MUSEUM
Rather than concentrating on the Wall, state terror and
other dark aspects of the East German regime, this popular
museum presents a glimpse of daily life under totalitarianism.
A wide selection of GDR-era objects is on display in several
themed areas, including media, fashion, education, work,
family and shopping. You can hang on the couch, touch the
clothes and sit in a Trabant.QG-3, Karl-Liebknecht-Strae
1, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 847 12 37
31, post@ddr-museum.de, www.ddr-museum.de. Open
10:00-20:00, Sat 10:00-22:00. Admission 6/4.
DEUTSCHES HISTORISCHES MUSEUM
The imperial Zeughaus - a pretty, pink, early 18th century
arsenal building by the Spree - houses the impressive
German History Museum. The 7000 objects in the main
building illustrate the best and worst episodes of Germanys
history, and there are regularly changing exhibitions in
the dazzling extension by architect I.M. Pei. You can rent
an audio tour set for 3 or join the English-language
highlights tour on Saturdays at 13:00.QF-3, Unter den
Linden 2, Mitte, MS Hackescher Markt, tel. +49 30 20 30
40, www.dhm.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Admission 8/4.
Under 18 free.
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GEDENKSTTTE BERLINER MAUER


The excellent national memorial site for the divided
Germany has a documentation centre covering the Berlin
Walls history in text, slides and dramatic lm footage.
An unscathed section of Wall runs along the street; walk
behind it to peer through a crack in the Hintermauer rear
wall to see a preserved section of death strip as it looked
in the 1980s, complete with a patrol road, wires and a
watchtower. Nearby, the wooden Chapel of Reconciliation
is built on the spot of a church demolished to make way
for the border defences. Walk on towards Mauerpark for
several more open-air exhibitions.QF-2, Bernauer Strae
111 & 119, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 467
98 66 66, infoberliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de, www.
berliner-mauer-gedenkstaette.de. Open 09:30-19:00,
Nov-Mar 09:30-18:00. Mon closed (outdoor exhibition
open 24hrs). Admission free.
GEMLDEGALERIE
Berlins largest art museum has 72 rooms full of works spanning
the 13th to 18th centuries. German masters include Drer,
Cranach the Elder, and Holbein; the Italians are represented by
Botticelli, Titian, Raphael. The Dutch rooms are especially good
with a Vermeer and the worlds largest Rembrandt collection.
QE-4, Matthikirchplatz 8, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer
Platz, tel. +49 30 266 42 42 42, service@smb.museum,
www.smb.museum. Open 10:00 - 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 22:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 8/4.
HAMBURGER BAHNHOF
Berlins wonderful modern art museum is situated in a
converted train station. Its well worth a visit by those
curious about the expressiveness of a sculpture made of
animal fat (Joseph Beuys) or urban dwellers xated by
bars of neon lighting (Dan Flavin). Andy Warhol and Marcel
Duchamp are the other familiar stars of this post-1960s
collection.QE-2, Invalidenstrae 50-51, Mitte, MS/U
Hauptbahnhof, tel. +49 30 39 78 34 11, hbf@smb.spkberlin.de, www.hamburgerbahnhof.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Sat 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Admission 10/5.
MEMU MENSCHEN MUSEUM
A much-discussed exhibition of real, plastinated
human bodies, aiming to show visitors how their
bodies and individual organs work, how we can live
healthier and longer, and what disease really looks like.
QPanoramastrasse 1a (Fernsehturm tower), Mitte,
www.memu.berlin. Open 10:00 - 19:00.
MUSEUM FR FILM UND FERNSEHEN
Hooray for Hollywood, but remember that some of the
personalities that gave it glamour and style came from
Germany. Actors Marlene Dietrich and Peter Lorre, directors
Billy Wilder and Josef von Sternberg came out of a country
with a strong lm-making tradition. Photo stills, footage, set
designs and costumes provide glimpses of the familiar, and
exhibits on Leni Riefenstahls shooting of Olympia (1936)
and Nazi entertainment cq propaganda lms will impress
December 2015 - January 2016

29

Mitte
asisi Panorama Berlin
Friedrichstrae 205
10117 Berlin
Checkpoint Charlie

Tickets and Service


+49(0)341.35 55 34 0
service@asisi.de

Free Guided Tours


Thursdays 11.30 a.m.
in English for Berlin
discoverers

Opening hours
daily from 10 a.m.
to 6 p.m.

Getting there
U6 Kochstrae
U2 Stadtmitte
M29 Kochstrae

facebook.com/
asisi.berlin
www.asisi.de

At Checkpoint Charlie
In cooperation with

seen-that lm bus. The museum ends with special eects


and science ction.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 2 (Sony
Center), Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
300 90 30, www.deutsche-kinemathek.de. Open 10:00 18:00, Thu 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon Admission 6/4,5.
MUSEUM FR NATURKUNDE
All the wonders of nature under one roof; a grand collection
illustrating the evolution of life as well as the diversity and
beauty of nature. The largest mounted dinosaur in the world
towers over visitors in the main hall, and elsewhere theres
the aardvarks, the early 20th-century dioramas, meteorites,
the most famous fossil of Earth history (the ancient bird
Archaeopteryx lithographica), giant shells and the gorilla
Bobby from the primates hall.QF-2, Invalidenstrae 43,
Mitte, MU Naturkundemuseum, tel. +49 30 20 93 85
91, info@mfn-berlin.de, www.naturkundemuseumberlin.de. Open 09:30 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,50.
WALL PANORAMA
The round structure near Checkpoint Charlie houses an
incredibly detailed 60 by 15 metre panoramic painting of
the Berlin Wall and its scruy surroundings as it looked
in the mid-1980s. Artist Yadegar Asisi has captured the
everyday banality of the Wall with fascinating small scenes
of life, on both sides of the divide. English tour Thu 11:30.
QF-4, Friedrichstrae 205, Mitte, tel. +49 34 13 55 53 40,
www.asisi.de. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Mid-July to mid-Sept
10:00-19:00, Fri-Sun 10:00-20:00. Admission 10/8.

VIEWPOINTS
FERNSEHTURM (TV TOWER)
The skewered disco ball on the tower peering over rooftops
certainly brings a level of humour to Berlins skyline.
The 368-metre television broadcast tower, completed
in 1969, 70m higher than the Eiel tower and the tallest
building in Germany, has an observation deck and the
Sphere restaurant with a rotating oor. Photos point out
the landmarks for you.QG-3, Panoramastrae 1a, Mitte,
MS/U Alexanderplatz, www.tv-turm.de. Admission
12/8.
30 Berlin In Your Pocket

PANORAMAPUNKT
It takes just 20 seconds on Europes fastest elevator to
get shot up to Berlins best viewpoint, on the 24th and
25th floor of this red brick skyscraper. Architect Hans
Kollhoffs magnificent 1930s-inspired building refers to
New Yorks skyscraping glory days but also resembles
the Berlin bear, complete with a golden crown. On
the top floors theres a short film and an exhibition
about the amazing history of Potsdamer Platz square,
which went from a world-class entertainment district
to a Wall-divided wasteland and back again within a
generation. The caf and rooftop terrace offer great
close-up views of Berlins highlights: Brandenburger Tor,
the Holocaust memorial, Unter den Linden, the former
Wall zone and Tiergarten park.QE-4, Potsdamer Platz
1, Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30
25 93 70 80, www.panoramapunkt.de. Open 10:0020:00, Nov-Mar 10:00-18:00. Admission 6,50/5,
family ticket 15,50.

Shopping
ALEXA CENTRE
A mall at the eastern end of Alexanderplatz square,
with five floors and 180 shops, restaurants and cafs.
Theres a massive kids area with a cinema and the
LOXX model train exhibition.QG-3, Grunerstrae 20
(Alexanderplatz), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel.
+49 30 269 34 00, www.alexacentre.com. Open MonSat 10:00-21:00, lower level from 08:00. Food court
also open Sun 11:00-19:00. LOXX open daily 10:0019:00.
FREY WILLE
Quality artistic enamel jewellery from Austria, inspired
by famous artists like Klimt, Mucha, Monet and
Hundertwasser. Besides the shop in Mitte, theres also
an outlet at Kurfrstendamm 50.QKarl Liebknechtstr.
3 (DomAquare mall), Mitte, tel. +49 30 23 45 73 31,
www.freywille.com. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Mitte
GUDRUN SJDN
Colourful female fashion designed by Gudrun Sjdn in a
bright concept store right opposite the Hilton. Theres two
oors of clothing and a cozy caf corner.QMarkgrafenstr.
32, Mitte, tel. +49 30 25 09 00 35, www.gudrunsjoeden.
de. Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
RITTER SPORT CHOCOWORLD
The agship store of Germanys famous Ritter Sport
chocolate brand has hundreds of chocolatey products to
try and buy, an exhibition about how chocolate is made, a
restaurant and a workshop where children can create their
own chocolate bar.QFranzsische Str. 24, Mitte, tel. +49
30 20 09 50 80, www.ritter-sport.de. Open 10:00 - 19:00,
Thu, Fri, Sat 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.

Hotels
OVER 200
ADLON KEMPINSKI
The reconstructed, historic Adlon hotel has views of
the Brandenburger Tor and Under den Linden, unfussy
1920s-style rooms with cherry wood, black marble
and rich fabrics, and the sta provides impeccable
service. Often voted the best hotel in Germany and even
Europe, this is in fact the only place to sleep in Berlin.
QF-2, Unter den Linden 77, Mitte, MU Unter den
Linden, tel. +49 30 226 10, adlon@kempinski.com,
www.hotel-adlon.de. 375 rooms (304 singles 240
- 379, 304 doubles 216 - 478, 78 suites 531 - 7100).
PHAUFLGKDCwW hhhhh
HILTON
Maybe its the excellent breakfast and not the privileged
view on Gendarmenmarkt that keeps guests coming back.
The formal rooms are supplemented by good restaurants
and exotic spa treatments.QF-2, Mohrenstrae 30, Mitte,
MU Stadtmitte, tel. +49 30 202 30, info.berlin@hilton.
com, www.hilton.com. 591 rooms (singles 145 - 345,
doubles 145 - 345, suites 220 - 1145). Breakfast extra.
PHARUFLEGKDC hhhhh
HOTEL DE ROME
Overlooking Bebelplatz, this top-class hotel occupies a
magnicent former bank building from 1889. Wooden
panelling, marble and even shrapnel damage pervade
the high-ceilinged lobby and rooms, and the banks vault
is now a 20-metre pool.QF-3, Behrenstrae 37, Mitte,
MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel. +49 30 460 60 90, info.
derome@roccofortecollection.com, www.hotelderome.
com. 146 rooms (103 singles 395 - 495, 103 doubles
395 - 495, 43 suites 595 - 4100).

vine.co/inyourpocket
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

MARRIOTT
Ten oors of superb rooms and conference facilities
overlooking the Platz. The lobby has a serenely spinning
3-tonne black granite globe, and the copper facade of one wall
plays an unearthly light show. That plus a wellness centre and a
classic Art Deco New York bar and grill make this one of Berlins
nest hotels.QE-4, Inge-Beisheim-Platz 1, Mitte, MS/U
Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 22 00 00, www.marriott.com.
379 rooms (350 singles 159 - 219, 350 doubles 159 219, 9 suites 350 - 1200, 80 executive room 199 - 259).
Breakfast extra. PHAFLGKDC hhhhh
WESTIN GRAND
Enviably well-located and used in GDR times for Party
bigwigs, the Westin is classically furnished, with a copy of the
Adlons marble staircase situated in the lobby, a round pool,
an upmarket restaurant and suites with butler service.QF-3,
Friedrichstrae 158-164, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 202 70, info@westin-grand.com, www.
westin.com/berlin. 358 rooms (25 singles 136 - 350, 273
doubles 136 - 375, suites 379 - 930, 15 junior suites
279 - 565, 1 presidential suite 986 - 1930). Breakfast
extra. PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh

150-200
MANDALA
Excellent rooms and apartments for both short and longterm stays. The Potsdamer Platz hotel location has great
views over Tiergarten park and hosts the top-notch Facil
restaurant and Qiu lounge; the suites at Friedrichstrae 185190 are close to all the action.QE-4, Potsdamer Strae 3,
Tiergarten, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 59 00 00
00, welcome@madison-berlin.de, www.themandala.de.
157 rooms (157 suites 130 - 5800). Breakfast extra.
PHAUFLKDW hhhhh

75-150
HONIGMOND & GARDEN HOTELS
Two meticulously restored buildings with sparsely
furnished rooms with original wooded oors makes for
a homey feel. The nearby Garden Hotel dependence
(Invalidenstrae 122) has a garden with a lawn and goldsh
pond for frolicking around in summer.QF-2, Tieckstrae
12, Mitte, MS Nordbahnhof, tel. +49 30 284 45 50,
info@honigmond.de, www.honigmond.de. 24 rooms
(singles 95 - 155, doubles 125 - 225). AG
PARK INN BERLIN ALEXANDERPLATZ
Towering 40 stories over Alexanderplatz, Germanys thirdlargest hotel is as central as it gets. Business rooms are all
renovated and stocked with a coeemaker and ironing
board. By far the best choice for the direction-impaired.
QG-3, Alexanderplatz 7, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz,
tel. +49 30 238 90, berlin.hotel@rezidorparkinn.com,
www.parkinn-berlin.com. 1012 rooms (318 singles
89 - 125, 671 doubles 89 - 125, 23 suites 130 - 185).
Breakfast extra. POARFGKD hhhh
December 2015 - January 2016

31

Friedrichshain
Friedrichshain is a lively old workers district that has
completely been taken over by rad nightlife venues, grati
and leftist students moaning about Touris encroaching on
their favourite watering holes. Tree-lined Simon-Dach-Strae
is full of cafs and bars, while Boxhagener Platz hosts the
popular Sunday eamarket. In the former border zone along
the river, the MediaSpree development plans for oces,
apartments and skyscrapers is passionately opposed by many
vocal locals who fear theyll lose public access to the river. This
chapter also includes suburban sights east of Friedrichshain.

Restaurants & Cafs


GERMAN
KEULE
Keule, pronounced coy-ler and berlinerisch for bro,
is an authentic corner in an increasingly international
district. It serves regional cuisine classics such as
soljanka soup, a hefty farmers breakfast, traditional
pork knuckle, cured smoked pork and berry compote
dessert. Later on, theres cocktails and sports
on the large screen.QSimon-Dach-Strae 22,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49
30 22 34 55 01, www.keule-berlin.de. Open from
12:00. . AUB

GETTING THERE
From Mitte, hop on a train to S/U-Bahn station Warschauer
Strae, or to U-Bahn station Frankfurter Tor. From
Nordbahnhof or Prenzlauer Berg catch the M10 tram,
known as the party tram at night.

SCHNEEWEISS
Schneewei is extremely stylish, very popular, and
very, very white. The delicious Alpine and new German
cuisine on the menu here is easily a match for the
chic interior, which has won accolades for its fantastic
design. This is the place to go if youre looking for a fullon dining experience, not just food.QSimplonstrae
16, Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel.
+49 30 29 04 97 04, www.schneeweiss-berlin.
de. Open 18:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 01:00. .
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32 Berlin In Your Pocket

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POCKET WALK: FRIEDRICHSHAIN


Get o the S- or U-Bahn at Warschauer Strae; enjoy the city
panorama from the bridge and glance back at the dainty
red-brick Oberbaumbrcke bridge before heading north into
the district. Turn right on Revaler Strae and left on SimonDach-Strae for Friedrichshains most touristy stretch of bars
and cafs. A right on Krossener Strae takes you to Boxi,
Boxhagener Platz, scene of the excellent Sunday ea market.
Walk north along Grtnerstrae and Mainzer Strae to reach
the grand Stalinist-style Frankfurter Allee. Follow this west (it
becomes Karl-Marx-Allee) and turn right onto Friedenstrae
for a stroll and a beer in Volkspark Friedrichshain.

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Friedrichshain
ASIAN

MUSEUMS

GLORY DUCK
Excellent Vietnamese-style Peking duck. This gorgeous new
place serves crispy, freshly grilled duck, served with gingermango sauce, orange sauce, red curry and other toppings.
Or go for Vietnamese standards such as Pho or one of the
vegetarian options. Theres a good selection of drinks and
Asian cocktails too. The design alone is reason to drop by;
the dark Feng Shui interior has interesting perspective
lines, theres a large harbour scene on one wall and the
toilets are decorated with 13000 psychedelic stickers.QI-4,
Sonntagstrae 31, Friedrichshain, MS Ostkreuz, tel.
+49 30 63 96 53 31, www.gloryduck.de. Open 12:00 24:00, Sat, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. . AUBSW

COMPUTERSPIELEMUSEUM
Stroll through decades of computer game history, from
the 1951 Nimrod calculating robot, the legendary Pong
machine and other 1980s gaming machines to 3D
simulators. Theres a total of 300 exhibits, including rare
originals and working classics. You can try out about 24
games yourself, and have a go at Ataris huge 1977 Jumbo
Joystick.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 93a, Friedrichshain,
MU Weberwiese, tel. +49 30 60 98 85 77, www.
computerspielemuseum.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed
Tue. Admission 8/5.

INTERNATIONAL
SAN DIEGO STEAKHOUSE
Great steaks and drinks at low prices with friendly service
what more does a meat-lover want? Theres a good
choice of beef and other meats, even a few vegetarian
options.QI-3, Karl-Marx-Allee 141, Friedrichshain, MU
Frankfurter Tor, tel. +49 30 42 02 37 77. Open 11:00 24:00. . TUNGBS
CUPCAKE BERLIN
The very rst thing that we learnt to bake together with our
mothers is now a fashionable little dessert snack with its
own caf dedicated to it. Try The King cupcake (with Elvis
favourite ingredients), the sweet Pretty in Pink or any of
the other 20-odd creations. Theres a good breakfast and
coee served at Cup Cake too.QJ-4, Krossener Strae 12,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 25
76 86 87, www.cupcakeberlin.de. Open 12:00 - 19:00.
TUVNGBSW

CAFS
KAUFBAR
At this homey caf you can wash down your chocolate croissant
with either a coee or carafe of red wine. Excepting the wine,
you can buy everything here to-go: the lampshades, art work,
chairs and even the ashtrays. The only thing not for sale in
the Buy Bar are their board games.QJ-4, Grtnerstrae 4,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 29
77 88 25, www.kaufbar-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00, Tue,
Wed 15:00 - 24:00. TUNGBSW
MACONDO
Macondo was the setting of Garca Mrquez novel 100
Years of Solitude, and you could say that its languid tropical
atmosphere perseveres in this wonderful reading caf. Theres
old furniture to sink in to, views over the Sunday market, good
coee and original South American mate tea, sipped through
a silver straw. Bring a book, and time.QI-4, Grtnerstrae 14,
Friedrichshain, MS/U Warschauer Strae, tel. +49 30 54 73
59 43, info@mancondo-berlin.de, www.macondo-berlin.
de. Open 15:00 - 02:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 02:00. BW
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

MUSEUMSWOHNUNG WBS 70
Travel back to 1986 and visit a GDR workers dream property;
this mundane but much-coveted prefab Plattenbau
museum home is the last of 42,000 such apartments with all
its original ttings (drab wallpapered ceilings), appliances
(yoghurt machine, Albanian chairs) and decorations (lurid
oral patterns). The rent was 109 Marks, about 10% of the
average wage, but the colour TV cost 4,500 Marks. From the
station exit left and follow the street around the block. No
English spoken or captions; bring a local.QHellersdorfer
Strae 179, Hellersdorf, MU Cottbusser Platz, tel. +49
151 16 11 44 40. Open Sun 14:00-16:00, other days by
appointment. Admission free.
STASI MUSEUM
East Germanys State Security Service or Stasi was
responsible for intelligence gathering both at home and
abroad. It spied on its own citizens, sometimes employing
the friends, colleagues, and family of those they wished to
keep an eye on. Today, this humble museum shows the
oce of Erich Mielke, the feared Stasi minister for 32 years,
in its original dull state. Theres a video of him testifying
before a panel in 1989, symbols of Communist kitsch, and
many documents in German.QRuschestrae 103, Haus
1, Friedrichshain, MU Magdalenenstrae, tel. +49 30
553 68 54, www.stasimuseum.de. Open 11:00 - 18:00,
Sat, Sun 14:00 - 18:00. Admission 5/4. Closed until 17
Jan.
STASI PRISON
The most hard-hitting of all GDR-related museums,
the Stasi Prison shows the sheer brutality of this
dictatorship. Used by the Soviets and the GDRs secret
service to extract confessions in advance of (show)
trials, the Hohenschnhausen prison swallowed
thousands of people who underwent horric physical
and psychological torture in the chilling submarine
cell block and the interrogation rooms. A short lm is
followed by an excellent 90-minute guided tour, vividly
explaining how eciently the prison system worked,
and how nobody ever escaped. Take tram M5 from
Alexanderplatz to Freienwalder Strae and walk 600
metres.QGenslerstrae 66, tel. +49 30 98 60 82 30,
www.stiftung-hsh.de. English tours on Wed, Sat, Sun
at 14:30. Admission 5.
December 2015 - January 2016

33

Charlottenburg & the West


Follow what becomes an increasingly silken ribbon down
Kurfrstendamm (Kudamm) and the setting becomes
more genteel. West Berliners meet in the bars and cafs
branching o Savignyplatz, even if the Szene has moved
east. Nearby but isolated from the hoi polloi is Schloss
Charlottenburg, the residence of King Friedrich I. This
chapter also covers other parts of western Berlin: leafy
Wilmersdorf and Schneberg, the centre of gay Berlin
since the days of Christopher Isherwoods Berlin Stories.
Weve also included some nearby venues in Tiergarten
(ocially part of Mitte) here.
GETTING THERE
Charlottenburgs nerve centre is Zoologischer Bahnhof
station, along the main west-east raised city railway and
easily reached from Hauptbahnhof or Spandau. From heres
its a short walk to many hotels and sights, or else hop on
the M29 bus, going east along Tauentzienstrae or west
down Kurfrstendamm.
POCKET WALK: CHARLOTTENBURG
Explore Charlottenburg from Zoologischer Garten station.
Walk east past the Zoo to Breitscheidplatz for the ruins
and modern reincarnation of the Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial
Church. Stroll further east down Tauentzienstrae for the
KaDeWe department store and other upmarket shops, or
head west along Kantstrae to leafy Savignyplatz for calm
cafs and rened dining, or southwest down grand old
Kurfrstendamm for more shopping.
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If downtown to you means wide, trac-lled streets,


crowds of shoppers, ve-star hotels and tall buildings,
then Charlottenburg comes closest to tting the bill in
Berlin. The Kaiser-Wilhelm-Gedchtniskirche church, left
as a ruin after the war, is the nexus of activity; between
it and Zoologischer Garten station, over a billion euros is
being invested in impressive highrises, hotels and oces.

1000 m

ldstr

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West


Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
APRIL
This bistro is great value with a generous appetiser plate for
two and various specials. The dining is a bit more formal out
back, where tables get the white-linen treatment.QD-5,
Winterfeldstrae 56, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 30 216 88 69, www.restaurant-april.com. Open
10:00 - 24:00. -. UNGBS
BAVARIUM
A Bavarian restaurant oddly located in the basement of the
Europa-Center mall by the Gedchtniskirche. Where buxom
waitresses plonk down hearty German dishes and big glasses
of Lwenbru, Radler and Franziskaner beer, to the merry tune
of oompah-music. How much more German can it get?QD-4,
Tauentzienstrae 9-12 (Europa-Center), Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 261 43 97, www.
bavarium-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. . TUG
KNESE
Alt-Berliner, traditional Old Berlin cuisine, is on oer at rustic
Knese. Try the Knigsberger Klopse, meatballs with potatoes,
the pork knuckle or the calf liver with apples, onions and
potatoes for a taste of the Berlin of yesteryear at reasonable
prices. Theres also a selection of international meals and
desserts for you to tuck in to. Wash it all down with some
good South-African wine.QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 34 48,
www.restaurant-knese.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00. . TB

Zillemarkt

boiled potatoes), Omas Rote Grtze (a vanilla pudding with


stewed red berries), and warm apple strudel make up the
menu of traditional Alt-Berlin and Brandenburg cuisine.QD-5,
Motzstrae 61, Schneberg, MU Viktoria-Luise-Platz, tel.
+49 30 21 96 98 61, schoeneberger_weltlaterne@yahoo.
de, www.schoeneberger-weltlaterne.de. Open 17:00 24:00, Fri, Sat 17:00 - 02:00. . TEB
ZILLEMARKT
Its easy to imagine Heinrich Zille, a local artist famous for his
charming portraits of Berlins lower classes, stroll in and order a
jellied boiled pork, stued cabbage leaves or a Berliner Currywurst.
Zillemarkt serves breakfast, home-made cakes. lunch and dinner,
and you can down a Zillebru beer in the glass-ceilinged bar.
QC-4, Bleibtreustrae 48a, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz,
tel. +49 30 881 70 40, info@zillemarkt.de, www.zillemarkt.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. TB

RENGER-PATZSCH
Upscale German dining with a dierence. The interior is kept
casual and simple, with all focus on the people and the food.
Serving regional cooking, you can order dishes such as sauteed
mushrooms in chervil sauce, pan-seared pike-perch and a
selection of tasty Alsatian ammekuchen.QD-5, Wartburgstrae
54, Schneberg, MU Eisenacher Strae, tel. +49 30 784 20
59, www.renger-patzsch.com. Open 18:00 - 23:30. .
SCHNEBERGER WELTLATERNE
Come back to old West Berlin at this wood-panelled tavern on
the southwest side of Viktoria-Luise-Platz. Schnitzel variations,
Berliner Eisbein (pork knuckle with pea puree, sauerkraut, and

Local cuisine
Wartburgstrae 54
Berlin - Schneberg
Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com
Renger-Patzsch

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December 2015 - January 2016

35

Charlottenburg & the West


AUSTRIAN
OTTENTHAL
The pleasure in this intimate, classy bistro is that of fresh,
seasonal ingredients, often from the owners home town,
Ottenthal. Daily specials might include foam of goose liver
or venison pie with apple-celery salad. The portion of Wiener
Schnitzel could feed two. Service is excellent, and you can
rely on wine recommendations (the list is extensive). Wines
and other products from Ottenthal such as pumpkinseed oil,
are available for purchase. This is truly one of our favourite
spots.QC-4, Kantstrae 153, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 313 31 62, www.ottenthal.
com. Open 17:00 - 01:00. . VGB
Suksan

ASIAN
SUKSAN
A short stroll from West Berlins shops and sights, Suksan
is a cosy Thai restaurant decorated with ample bamboo
poles and palmleaf roofs. Drop by for the lunch specials,
or dine on spicey Thai dishes accompanied by wine or
fresh coconut milk, perhaps followed by a cocktail.QD-4,
Ansbacher Strae 4, Schneberg, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 21 01 86 73, kontakt@suksan.de, www.
suksan.de. Open 12:00 - 23:00, Fri 12:00 - 24:00, Sat
16:00 - 24:00, Sun 17:00 - 23:00.
JJ

Zillemarkt
Cafhaus Restaurant

Over 100 years of


comfort and quality
Traditional German cuisine

SCHNITZELEI
Nearly as far from central Berlin as Austria, Schnitzelei is
well o the beaten track, but well worth looking up. No
tacky alpine decorations here, but a light take on the genre,
with oak patterns and subdued lighting creating a good
vibe. There are delicious schnitzels in dierent variations,
though you may also want to try the German tapas.QB-3,
Rntgenstrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Richard-WagnerPlatz, tel. +49 30 34 70 27 78, www.schnitzelei.de. Open
16:00 - 01:00, Sat, Sun 12:00 - 01:00. . TVGBS

FINE DINING
FIRST FLOOR
A Michelin star has been the beacon over Matthias Dieters
restaurant for years now, and visiting gourmands who cant
move well after a seven-course meal make a point of staying
at the Palace. The cuisine has touches of France and the Far
East, and turbot with caviar or prawn is often on the menu.
QD-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg, MS/U
Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 25 02 10 20, www.palace.
de. Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . G h
HUGOS
The InterContinentals Michelin-starred French restaurant on
the 14th oor has stunning views across the park to Potsdamer
Platz. Chef Thomas Kammeiers cuisine is equally dazzling; expect
subtle creations blending ne avours in the lightest of dishes.
QD-4, Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 26 02 12 63, www.hugos-restaurant.de.
Open 18:30 - 22:30. Closed Mon, Sun. . TUGW h

INTERNATIONAL
Mon-Fri 12:00-24:00
Sat, Sun, Holidays 10:00-24:00
Tel. 030-881 70 40
Bleibtreustr. 48a, Berlin-Charlottenburg
www.zillemarkt.de
36 Berlin In Your Pocket

DIEKMANN
Herr Diekmann was one of the rst to grace Berlins simple
tables with some French nesse, even if it was in what began
as a sandwich shop in 1976. Shelves and drawers of an old
Kolonialwaren store line the walls, and Diekmann still uses
French techniques to primp excellent ingredients. Always on
the menu are oysters and a selection of French cheeses.QC-4,
Meinekestrae 7, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel.
+49 30 883 33 21, www.diekmann-restaurants.de. Open
12:00 - 01:00, Sun 18:00 - 01:00. . UGB
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West


DRESSLER
A good place to go if you yearn to relive something
of Berlins roaring 1920s. Expect Art Deco wooden
paneling, large mirrors, and good bistro and proper
restaurant meals served in a very relaxed atmosphere.
The menu changes every week. Also in Mitte, at
Unter den Linden 39.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 207,
Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 883
35 30, www.restaurant-dressler.de. Open 08:00 01:00. . UGB
DUKE
Creative international crossover meals are served in
the aptly named Ellington Hotel restaurant, set in a
dazzling 1920s building near the Kudamm. The open
kitchen allows you to watch chef cook Florian Glauert
create culinary treats.QD-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 683
15 40 00, www.duke-restaurant.com. Open 11:30 23:00. -.
EINHORN
A fabulous vegetarian lunchbar, with standing space
only. Every day theres a completely dierent menu, with
European and Mediterranean as well as Arab and Asian
dishes.QC-4, Mommsenstrae 2, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 881 42 41, www.einhorncatering.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun. .
NGS

ITALIAN
FRANCUCCIS
Francuccis kitchen churns out fresh, fresh food, with homemade pasta and bread and plenty of regional ingredients in
dishes like the veal scallop with herbs, potatoes and black
trues.QB-4, Kurfrstendamm 90, Charlottenburg, MU
Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 323 33 18, www.francucci.
com. Open 12:00 - 23:00. . TVGBSW
LA FORCHETTA
An upmarket restaurant well within the city limits but
overlooking lake Halensee. Only fresh Italian food is served
here, including a delicious oven baked lamb. In summer,
a romantic terrace is available.QA-5, Knigsallee 5b,
Wilmersdorf, MS Halensee, tel. +49 30 892 85 97, info@
la-forchetta-berlin.de,
www.la-forchetta-berlin.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. B
LOCANDA
A tiny restaurant where Gianni can be found welcoming
guests, cooking, pouring wine, serving food and washing
dishes, all the while singing along to Italian classics. The
pasta, sh and meat dishes are simple, and all simply
delicious. Ask for the three-course surprise menu.
Opposite the Schaubhne theatre.QB-4, Lehniner
Platz 2, Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49
30 31 80 69 68. Open 10:00 - 23:00. Closed Sun. .
TNGBS
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SUKSAN

TRAVEL FAR. EAT AT HOME


Sawatdi Kap welcome to Suksan. Experience a temple for
Thai food and cooking culture in the heart of West Berlin,
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WDNH\RXRQDFXOLQDU\WULSWRWKHODQGRIVPLOHV

100m to KaDeWe and ZOO Berlin


THAI RESTAURANT
& COCKTAIL LOUNGE

ORIGINA
L
THAI FOO
D

SUKSAN
Ansbacher Strasse 4
corner Kurfrstenstrasse
U - Wittenbergplatz
www.suksan.de

TEL 030.21 01 86 73
December 2015 - January 2016

37

Charlottenburg & the West


COLD WAR BERLIN
The physical division of Berlin during 28 years, and
the development of two completely separated cities
on both sides of the Wall that ran between them,
has led to huge dierences that cannot be erased in
a matter of a few years. Key sights relating to this era
are the Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer in Prenzlauer
Berg, Checkpoint Charlie in Mitte with the Haus
am Checkpoint Charlie Wall museum, BlackBox
Cold War, Wall Panorama and Stasi exhibition,
and the Trnenpalast, the former border crossing
beside Friedrichstrae station. Get insights into
daily GDR life at the DDR Museum in Mitte and the
Museumswohnung WBS 70 out in the suburbs.
ZWLF APOSTEL
The alley next to the S-Bahn tracks leads to a grand interior
with classicist decoration and angels on the walls. The
Italian food - including wood-oven pizzas - served here
is excellent, and from Monday to Friday the business
lunch options oer good value. Also at Georgenstrae 2,
under the S-Bahn track in Mitte.QC-4, Bleibtreustrae
49, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
14 33, www.12-apostel.de. Open 08:00 - 01:00. .
TNGBS

JAPANESE
SACHIKO SUSHI
An innovative kaiten sushi restaurant - the oldest in town,
dating back to 1995 - has little boats circling the restaurant
with some of the best sushi in town. Not afraid to serve
classic and new sushi varieties with world wines, heres
your chance to have bonito with Sauvignon Blanc, or
tuna rolls with Riesling. Beneath the railway arches.QC-3,
Jeanne-Mammen-Bogen 584, Charlottenburg, MS
Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 313 22 82, www.sachikosushi.
com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 16:00 - 24:00. Closed Mon.
. TGBS

ORIENTAL
MAROOUSH
Egyptian-Oriental opulence with a modern twist. This
restaurant, shisha lounge and cocktail bar has decent
meze starters and Middel Eastern mains; on Friday
and Saturday the belly-dancers perform to live music.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 48, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 887 11 83 35, www.marooush.
de. Open 15:00 - 01:00. E

Samowar serves Chicken Kiev, Beef Strogano, Odessa


sh soup and many more Russian classics in a wonderful
setting with dark wood, paintings, busts and antiques. For
an extra memorable experience book the 3-course Czar
menu with borscht soup, shashlik, salmon, veal and bliny
desserts - or enjoy a tea ceremony with Russian sweets.
QLuisenplatz 3, Charlottenburg, tel. +49 30 341 41 54,
www.restaurant-samowar.de. Open From 11:00.

SPANISH
EL DORADO
Dark woods and coloured tile work make a proper setting
for this Spanish restaurant. The various steak cuts can weigh
up to a kilo. The non-red meat dishes include Moorish and
Catalan specialities and theres also tapas if you just want
to snack while watching the boulevards shoppers pass
by.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm 203-205, Charlottenburg,
MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 92 65 82, www.
eldorado-steakhaus.de. Open 11:00 - 02:00. . B

CAFS
CAF AM NEUEN SEE
The perfect Berlin biathlon is riding a bike through
Tiergarten park, rehydrating with beer here, and then
renting a rowboat on the adjacent lake. This caf, restaurant
and bar serves a breakfast of champions until 16:00 as
well as regional food, coee, cakes and cocktails. Food
served till 22:00.QD-4, Lichtensteinallee 2, Tiergarten,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 254 49 30, www.
cafeamneuensee.de. Open 08:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 23:00. -. TUGB
CAF IM LITERATURHAUS
Some guests may be sporting three-piece suits, straw hats,
polished canes and freshly ued pups, but you dont have
to be all that precious about eating at this literary hangout.
Food runs from cheap sandwiches for aspiring writers
and critics, to lamb. The 19th-century building has airy
rooms that are pleasant to dine in on a sunny day.QC-4,
Fasanenstrae 23, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae,
tel. +49 30 887 2860, literaturhaus@literaturhaus-berlin.
de, www.literaturhaus-berlin.de. Open 10:00 - 17:00. .
GB

RUSSIAN

CAFE KALWIL
A cosy and straight-friendly caf in gay old Schneberg.
Pink sofas and antique tables are arranged below glittering
chandeliers, overlooked by a dozen portraits of strapping
moustachioed men. Theres fair trade coee, quality
teas, cakes by Wunderkuchen, sandwiches, light meals
and more.QD-4/5, Motzstrae 30, Schneberg, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 23 63 88 18. Open 09:00 22:00. . ABW

SAMOWAR
Berlins oldest Russian restaurant can ttingly be found
in Charlottenburg, the district that has been popular
with Russian visitors and immigrants for over a century.

GRENANDER MORNING GLORY


Pastries, muns, croissants and rolls lie in waiting at
the counter of this modern, earth-tone caf. Great for

38 Berlin In Your Pocket

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West


breakfast, lunch or indeed something else to glorify your
morning.QD-4, Wittenbergplatz 3a, Schneberg,
MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 75 52 77 21, www.
grenander.de. Open 08:00 - 22:00. . TUGBS

Nightlife
BARS
GREEN DOOR
This dimly-lit, cool bar doesnt take itself too seriously. An
undulating wall with a recessed shelf for drinks leads to an
improbable end of Gingham-checked wallpaper. A padded,
green leather door protects those prone to bumping into
things after a few rounds. Most of the crowd is thirty and
up, and quite steady on their feet.QD-5, Winterfeldstrae
50, Schneberg, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 215
25 15, www.greendoor.de. Open 18:00 - 03:00, Fri, Sat
18:00 - 04:00.
HEFNER
The most happening spot on Savignyplatz is this cool
cocktail bar on the corner with Kantstrae. Though the
lengthy cocktail menu includes all the favourites, Hefner
prides itself on having the best selection of Martini
cocktails in Berlin.QC-4, Kantstrae 146, Charlottenburg,
MU Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 31 01 75 20, www.hefnerberlin.de. Open 16:00 - 03:00, Sat 13:00 - 03:00. NB
ZWIEBELFISCH
The name Zwiebelsch is, among other things, the term
used by printers to label a single letter that rebels and
appears in a font unlike the letters around it. Aging, but
still-kicking liberals come here to rest the weight of their
youthful ideals and trade wisecracks with long-time owner
Hartmut Volmerhaus. Jazz or classic music is piped in, and
a selection of papers and magazines helps stretch out
the beer or coee. Hot meals, like goulash and Swabian
Maultaschen are served up until 03:00. The tall tables
abutting the bar are a brilliantly social arrangement.QC-4,
Savignyplatz 7-8, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel.
+49 30 312 73 63, www.zwiebelfisch-berlin.de. Open
12:00 - 06:00. -. NBSW

Caf im Literaturhaus

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

WEST BERLIN REVIVAL

After the Second World War, the western half of Berlin


found itself in a very curious situation. This group of city
suburbs, which included the chic shopping and theatre
district of Charlottenburg, was suddenly declared a
separate entity from the eastern part of the city, which
included the entire city centre district. After the fall of
the Wall, West Berlin went through a tough decade of
reorientation, as investment and visitors headed east
to the original city centre. Now however, the West is
undergoing something of a revival. Next to the newly
renovated Gedchtniskirche stands the gleaming
new Waldorf Astoria, overlooking the revolutionary
Bikini Berlin concept mall and the linked 25hours
Hotel Bikini Berlin. Just across the tracks, the C/O
Berlin photo gallery opened last autumn.
December 2015 - January 2016

39

Charlottenburg & the West


WHISKIES

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Schlterstr.15, 10625 Berlin - Charlottenburg, Tel. 312 55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de, Monday to Saturday from 19:00

PUBS
THE HARP
A well-established Irish pub serving all the usual pub
grub favourites as well as soups, salads and a range of
homemade burgers. On tap theres Guinness, Kilkenny,
and a choice of German beers. You can expect major
sports events to be beamed on screens, and theres
quiz nights and live music too. The pub can be booked
for special occasions.QB-4, Giesebrechtstrae 15,
Charlottenburg, MU Adenauerplatz, tel. +49 30 22
32 87 35, info@harp-pub.de, www.harp-pub.de. MonFri from 15:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. -. EBW
UNION JACK
A corner of Scottish highland in the heart of Berlin,
this whisky pub is one of Berlins first true pubs and
continues to draw the punters in with a collection of
401 whiskys (from the best Scottish and Irish brands to
Canadian and Japanese bourbon) and various English
and Irish beers. Solid food is available too home made
snacks and and Walkers crisps.QC-4, Schlterstrae
15, Charlottenburg, MS Savignyplatz, tel. +49 30 312
55 57, www.unionjack-berlin.de. Open 19:00 - open
end. Closed Sun Open from 19:00. Sun closed.

Sightseeing

SCHLOSS CHARLOTTENBURG
The largest royal residence in Berlin, named for Prussias
rst queen. Though it began as a modest summer palace
in 1695, todays version, distinguished by its 505-meter
facade and central tower, took its nal form in 1790.
You can take a guided or audiotour of the luxurious
and largely Rococo and Baroque apartments where an
eye-glazing number of royal Friedrichs and Wilhelms
resided. Also here is the largest collection of 18th century
French painting outside France, plus a beautiful Baroque
garden, mausoleum, and Belvedere teahouse with a
porcelain exhibition. Take bus M45 from Wagner-Platz or
Zoologischer Bahnhof.QA-3, Spandauer Damm 20-24,
Charlottenburg, MU Richard-Wagner-Platz, tel. +49
30 32 09 14 40, www.spsg.de. Open 10:00-18:00; NovMar 10:00-17:00; Mon closed. New Wing 10:00-18:00,
Tues closed. Admission 12/8, New Wing 6/5. Photo
permit 3.

CHURCHES
GEDCHTNISKIRCHE
The ruined Kaiser Wilhelm Memorial Church, a stark reminder of wartime destruction, is West Berlins landmark
attraction. Kept as an open wound, the severe acknowledgement of Germanys culpability is declared on a
plaque: The tower of the old church serves as a remem-

LANDMARKS
OLYMPIC STADIUM
The Olympic Stadium was originally built under the
direction of architect Werner March to host the 1936
Olympic Games. A good example of bombastic fascist
architecture, its size never fails to impress. The most
striking changes are the blue track and the seemingly
oating roof whose translucent skin oers shelter for
almost all of the 75,000 seats. On non-event days you
can visit the stadium using a multi-language audioguide,
or on an hour-long guided tour.QOlympischer Platz 3,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Olympiastadion, tel. +49 30
25 00 23 22, tour@olympiastadion-berlin.de, www.
olympiastadion-berlin.de. Open 09:00 - 19:00 June mid-Sep open until 20:00, Nov - mid-Mar 10:00-16:00.
Admission 7/5.
40 Berlin In Your Pocket

Union Jack

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Charlottenburg & the West


brance of Gods judgement, which befell our people during the war years. The 1895 church was once a symbol of
national pride: even synagogues contributed to its funding. Inside is a gilded mosaic of the Hohenzollern dynasty.
The modern chapel and bell tower beside it were completed in 1961, and are worth entering on sunny days for
the amazing blue stained glass windows. Concerts take
place every week, many of them free.QD-4, Breitscheidplatz, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49
30 218 50 23, www.gedaechtniskirche-berlin.de. Open
09:00-19:00.

PARKS AND GARDENS

Christmas Market on Breitscheidplatz

TIERGARTEN
This 255 hectare park full of paths, meadows, and
waterways is the most genteel of Berlins parks, but its
still a ne place for jogging, football, a picnic barbecue,
or nude sunbathing (weather permitting). The Siegessule
(Victory Column) that stood in front of the Reichstag from
1873 until 1938 now serves as a roundabout and lookout
point in the middle of the park. The parks caf and beer
garden, Caf am Neuensee, is at the southwestern end.
QC/D/E-3/4.

KEMPINSKI BRISTOL
The elite Kempinski and Adlon are sister properties, but
this is where well-travelled regulars feel more at home
- out of the limelight, but still in upmarket lodgings on
a swank corner of Kudamm.QC-4, Kurfrstendamm
27, Charlottenburg, MU Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30
88 43 40, reservations.bristol@kempinski.com, www.
kempinskiberlin.de. 301 rooms (249 singles 265 326, 249 doubles 322 - 447, 52 suites 470 - 1800).
Breakfast extra. PHARUFLGKDC
hhhhh

Hotels
OVER 200
DAS STUE
The luxurious, family-owned living room hotel, set in the
1930s Danish embassy building, attracts an interesting mix
of creatives and business visitors. The 1920s-style bar and
many rooms overlook the zoo, with ostriches and antelopes
peering back at you. The rooms and grand suites are spread
across the old and new wings, adorned with beautiful
wooden and copper details. A small pool can be found
in the spa area, and theres the rst-class Cinco restaurant.
QD-4, Drakestrae 1, Tiergarten, MU Wittenbergplatz,
tel. +49 30 311 72 20, www.das-stue.com. 80 rooms (70
doubles from 200, 20 suites 290-740). PHUF
GKDCW
INTERCONTINENTAL
Near transport options, the Zoo and Tiergarten park,
the InterContinental oers quiet nights in modern and
spacious rooms, and conference facilities with intelligent
business solutions. After work, theres gourmet food
at Hugos and live music at the Marlene Bar. Further
relaxation options can be found in the large spa
complex, with several saunas and tness facilities.QD-4,
Budapester Strae 2, Tiergarten, MS/U Zoologischer
Garten, tel. +49 30 260 20, berlin@interconti.com,
www.interconti.com. 558 rooms (498 singles 165 350, 498 doubles 170 - 400, 60 suites 215 - 2500).
Breakfast extra. PTHAUFLEGBK
DCW hhhhh
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

visitBerlin, Tanja Koch

PALACE
Near the Europa Center shops and the zoo, gourmands
feast at the First Floor restaurant and guests schmooze in
the conference rooms that include Tai-Ping carpets, oak
panelling and replaces. The staidly furnished rooms are
large.QD-4, Budapester Strae 45, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 250 20, hotel@
palace.de, www.palace.de. 239 rooms (59 singles 200
- 300, 191 doubles 225 - 325, 32 suites 325 - 2150).
PHARUFLGKDC hhhhh
SAVOY BERLIN
Utterly un-Berlin, this stylish Cuban-avoured abode once
made Latin-music lover David Byrne a happy guest. Who
knows who youll trade smoke rings with in the cigar shop
near the clubby Times Bar.QC-4, Fasanenstrae 9-10,
Charlottenburg, MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30
31 10 30, info@hotel-savoy.com, www.hotel-savoy.com.
125 rooms (45 singles 142 - 222, 62 doubles 152 - 232,
triples 192 - 272, 16 suites 202 - 292). ARFK
D hhhh
SOFITEL BERLIN KURFRSTENDAMM
The 11-story, French-style Sotel impresses with sleekly
designed rooms with ne woods, contemporary art
and fantastic views from the upper oors. The curved
corner suites have sliding walls and elegant free-standing
bathtubs.QC-4, Augsburger Strae 41, Charlottenburg,
MU Kurfrstendamm, tel. +49 30 800 99 90, H9387@
sofitel.com, www.sofitel.com. 311 rooms (singles 230 280, doubles 240 - 300, 44 suites 280 - 950). Breakfast
extra.
December 2015 - January 2016

41

Charlottenburg & the West


150-200
GRAND HOTEL ESPLANADE
Overlooking
the
Bauhaus
museum
between
Kurfrstendamm and Tiergarten park, the modern
Esplanade has bright, well-furnished rooms and impresses
with a large glass-covered atrium, the Harrys New York Bar
and a sizeable spa and tness centre.QD-4, Ltzowufer
15, Tiergarten, MU Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 25 47
80, www.esplanade.de. 394 rooms (singles/doubles
from 99, 40 suites from 139). PTHAUFL
GKDCW hhhhh

75-150
BERLIN, BERLIN
Mostly known for its conference facilities, this large 1958
hotel is in a central but rather bland area just south of
Tiergarten park. The glam period lobby and restaurant
give way to comfortably furnished rooms, in a variety
of styles. Peace can be found in the summer garden
restaurant.QD-4, Ltzowplatz 17, Tiergarten, MU
Nollendorfplatz, tel. +49 30 260 50, info@hotel-berlin.
de, www.hotel-berlin.de. 701 rooms (103 singles 100
- 195, 569 doubles 100 - 245, 29 suites 220 - 900).
PHARUFLGKD hhhh

Christmas Market at Charlottenburg Palace


visitBerlin, Wolfgang Scholvien

SWISSTEL BERLIN
Every room here has a Lavazza espresso machine and suites
are cranking with Bang & Olufsen stereos. When youre
done playing in your room, downtown western Berlin
beckons. Youll never want to go home.QC-4, Augsburger
Strae 44, Charlottenburg, MU Kurfrstendamm, tel.
+49 30 22 01 00, berlin@swissotel.com, www.swissotelberlin.com. 316 rooms (219 singles 160 - 310, 219
doubles 160 - 310, 14 suites 310 - 480, 11 junior suite
260 - 410). Breakfast 21. PHARFLGD
hhhhh
WALDORF ASTORIA
Berlins newest luxury hotel, 118 metres high, occupies
a prime spot near Kurfrstendamm and the Kadewe
department store in western Berlin. Honouring its grand
New York heritage, its decorated in lavish Art Deco style,
with artworks and decoration in the spacious rooms,
and a caf and bar with a 1920s Berlin theme. The library
on the 15th oor with its concierge and great views is a
comfortable place to relax. The Les Solistes restaurant run
by star chef Pierre Gagnaire oers ne dining and 650
wines.QC-4, Hardenbergstrae 28, Charlottenburg,
MS/U Zoologischer Garten, tel. +49 30 814 00 00, www.
waldorfastoriaberlin.com. 232 rooms (doubles from
250). PHAUFLGKDCwW
42 Berlin In Your Pocket

BERLIN PLAZA
The Plaza has elegantly simple rooms equipped with
all modern conveniences, such as allergy-free bedlinen
and free wi-. The in-house Knese restaurant has solid
traditional Berlin cuisine, and an attractive terrace.
QC-4, Knesebeckstrae 63, Charlottenburg, MU
Uhlandstrae, tel. +49 30 88 41 30, info@plazahotel.
de, www.plazahotel.de. 131 rooms (singles 80 - 150,
doubles 79 - 180, triples 105 - 200). HLGKW
ELLINGTON HOTEL
Set in a beautiful 1920s building near Kurfrstendamm and
named after the American jazz legend, the Ellingtons rooms
have clean, understated and elegant design, with the Tower
Suites oering great views. The Duke hotel restaurant serves
up international cuisine in fabulous surroundings, and has
regular jazz brunches.QD-4, Nrnberger Strae 50-55,
Charlottenburg, MU Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 68 31
50, contact@ellington-hotel.com, www.ellington-hotel.
com. 285 rooms (singles 108 - 238, doubles 118 - 248,
suites 168 - 428). PJHARUFLK
SYLTER HOF
Sylt may be a skinny island in the North Sea, but these
suites in a high-rise are fat. For the cost of a normal room in
Berlin, you get a fully equipped kitchen too (a supermarket
is across the street) and rates go down for longer stays.
QD-3, Kurfrstenstrae 114-116, Schneberg, MU
Wittenbergplatz, tel. +49 30 212 00, info@sylterhofberlin.de, www.sylterhof-berlin.de. 160 rooms (80
singles 69 - 120, 40 doubles 99 - 180, 40 suites 129
- 210). HAG hhh
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Local cuisine

Wartburgstrae 54, Berlin - Schneberg


Open daily from 18:00
Tel. 784 20 59
www.renger-patzsch.com

Prenzlauer Berg
On a low hill northeast
of Mitte, Prenzl Berg is an
old working-class district
in the former East Berlin
that came through the war
relatively unscathed. After
1989, the cool brigade
pounced on the area, and
houses that were once
home to East German
punks were renovated
in odes to pastel. The
number of wine shops and
young parents pushing
pricey prams indicates the level of gentrication here. The
best places to soak up the atmosphere are Kollwitzplatz,
Helmholzplatz and along Kastanienallee. One of Prenzlauer
Bergs best attractions is the Kulturbrauerei culture centre,
set in a 19th-century brewery complex. This chapter also
covers some places in multicultural Wedding, just to the
west.

POCKET WALK: PRENZLAUER BERG


Start walking uphill along Kollwitzstrae from U-Bahn
station Senefelder Platz. From leafy Kollwitzplatz turn
into beautiful Husemannstrae, which was already
restored in GDR times, and left into Sredzkistrae
where youll spot the Kulturbrauerei complex ahead;
enter beside the tall chimney and wander through its
courtyards to the northern exit. Cross Danziger Strae
and amble down Lychenerstrae to pretty, caf-lined
Helmholtzplatz. Follow Raumerstrae west, turn left
down Pappelallee and cross underneath the U-Bahn
station to Eberswalder Strae; youll soon reach the
popular Mauerpark and the top end of Bernauer Strae
with its excellent Wall Memorial.

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GETTING THERE
The U2 from Alexanderplatz feeds crowds onto Senefelderplatz and Eberswalder Strae, close to most attractions.
From Museumsinsel and Friedrichstrae you can use tram
M1 to Eberswalder Strae as well. U-Bahn station Bernauer
Strae and S-Bahn station Nordbahnhof are most convenient for a stroll along the Wall Memorial to Mauerpark.

rs

PRECISE MYERS
Entered from a quiet courtyard, Myers is an upmarket
private hotel with smallish, classically furnished rooms
overlooking the garden. On the ground oor, a tearoom
has a pleasant summer terrace.QH-2, Metzer Strae
26, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49
30 44 01 40, info@myershotel.de, www.myershotel.
de. 51 rooms (8 singles 75 - 135, 33 doubles 85
- 185, 1 suite 195 - 345, 10 Premium 115 - 265).
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44 Berlin In Your Pocket

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berlin.inyourpocket.com

Prenzlauer Berg
Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
DIE SCHULE
Modern and light German food on Berlins prime catwalk.
Kastanienallee, also known as casting alley, is a perfect
place to watch Berlin street style. Die Schule has a terrace
facing the street and the airy interiors belie that these
rooms used to be classrooms (hence the name). You can
have all the German food classics, and even better: you
can have them all at once: try German Kleinigkeiten, small
samples of everything the local cuisine is famous for.QG-2,
Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder
Strae, tel. +49 30 780 08 95 50, www.restaurant-dieschule.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00. BW
METZER ECK
Opened 1913, time seems to have stood still in the oldest
tavern in Prenzlauer Berg - and thats the way the regulars
like it. The Eck serves inexpensive Berlin dishes - sausages,
Boulette (hamburger), and Bratkartoel (fried potatoes),
and has a letter from artist Heinrich Zille to the rst tavern
owner hanging on the back wall, as well as a savings box
that regulars once contributed to.QG-2, Metzer Strae 33,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 442 76
56, info@metzer-eck.de, www.metzer-eck.de. Open 16:00
- 01:00, Sat 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Sun. . NGBS

DAILY 11.00 24.00

Die Schule

RESTAURATION 1900
Our Kollwitzplatz favourite, 1900 exhibits some fascinating
photographs of the neighbourhood before (Trabant) and
after (Smart) 1989. It serves excellent Berlin and German
food, as well as some pasta and vegetarian options.
Come on Saturday morning to watch locals shopping at
the weekly market, and on Sundays to ll up at the allyou-can-eat breakfast buet.QH-2, Husemannstrae
1, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49
30 442 24 94, www.restauration1900.de. Open 10:00 23:00. -. TBSW

FAST FOOD
KONNOPKES IMBISS
The Ziervogel family started selling their famous Wursts
in 1930. This simple shack is a convenient stop for those
spilling out of the Eberswalder Strae U-Bahn; the Imbiss
is just south, beneath the tracks. To eat your Currywurst like
a true native, order it ohne darm (without the intestine skin
wrapping).QG-1, Schnhauser Allee 44b, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 442 77 65,
www.konnopke-imbiss.de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat
12:00 - 20:00. Closed Sun. .

INTERNATIONAL

Modern and light German food


on Berlins catwalk no.1
KASTANIENALLEE 82 | 10435 BERLIN
FON: (030) 78 00 89 5-50
info@restaurant-die-schule.de
www.restaurant-die-schule.de
U2

Eberswalder Str.

U8

Rosenthaler Platz

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

FLEISCHLUST
A spot for those with healthy lust for esh can grill n chill.
Sta in 1930s outts serve excellent steaks, cooked anything
from blue (extremely rare) to well done. For the undecided,
theres a mixed grill, while the thirsty can delve into the
wine and cocktail menu.QH-1, Pappelallee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MS/U Schnhauser Allee, tel. +49 30 44 67 54 14,
www.fleischlust-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - open end.
GUGELHOF
During the early bloom of Kollwitzplatzs gentrication,
the success of little Gugelhof was sealed by heads of state:
Schrder, Fischer, Albright and even Bill Clinton made surprise
visits. German, French, and Swiss dishes share the menu; this
is where to try ammekuchen, a thin-crust Alsatian pizza. The
atmosphere is lively and service is friendly.QH-2, Knaackstrae
37, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30
442 92 29, gugelhof@t-online.de, www.gugelhof.com.
Open 16:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 24:00. . A
December 2015 - January 2016

45

Prenzlauer Berg
ITALIAN
PIZZERIA I DUE FORNI
Atypical for Berlin, this Italian restaurant is not very chic, the
service is rather cheeky, and the whole place has the feel
of an overcrowded student canteen. But the cheap pizza is
highly praised, and the lively, convivial atmosphere of i Due
Forni is the perfect primer for a night out on the town.QG-2,
Schnhauser Allee 12, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder
Platz, tel. +49 30 44 01 73 33. Open 12:00 - 24:00. UB

JAPANESE
SUSHI IMBISS AM WASSERTURM
Discounts at happy hour (weekdays 13:00 - 16:00) crowd
this ve-table joint, but theres takeout as well. Sake Maki,
California Make and vegetarian items all run about 3. All
sushi-lovers speak some Japanese, but if you need any
explanations, the Japanese owner/chef and sta speak
English.QH-2, Rykestrae 45, Prenzlauer Berg, MU
Senefelderplatz, tel. +49 30 44 04 57 06. Open 12:00 23:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon. .

SANTIAGO
This cocktail lounge overlooking Kollwitzplatz has a
somewhat dodgy interior leather sofas and glitzy girl
statues that wouldnt look out of place in a nightclub
but manages to get the punters in with a range of
attractively priced oers like cocktails during the happy
(before 20:00) and blue hours (from 01:00). Theres an
eat-all-you-can dinner on Wednesday and brunch at
weekends.QH-2, Wrtherstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg,
MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 441 25 55. Open
16:00 - 03:00.
WEINSTEIN
An older crowd savours an evening of conversation and
wine at this cosy wine tavern. Pick a meal to help anchor
the 40 vintages available by the glass. There are few better
places to try the outstanding German whites that usually
dont make it out of the country and theres also a selection
of sherries.QH-1, Lychener Strae 33, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 441 18 42,
weinsten@weinstein.eu, www.weinstein.eu. Open
17:00 - 02:00, Sun 18:00 - 02:00.

CAFS
ANNA BLUME
Named after a lyrical poem and with a sexy Mucha ower
girl on the wall, this is an excellent, relaxed caf. Serving up
coee, cakes, crepes, meals and the usual Berlin breakfasts,
its one of the better spots for people-watching or just
reading. Intriguingly, it also sells owers (Blume) from the
connected shop next door and the smell of coee and
fresh owers combines very well.QH-2, Kollwitzstrae 83,
Prenzlauer Berg, MU Senefelder Platz, tel. +49 30 44 04
87 49, www.cafe-anna-blume.de. Open 08:00 - 02:00.
SCHALL UND RAUCH
Noise and Smoke is a great place to enjoy a breakfast buet
on lazy weekend mornings, or to down specials at the bar
at night together with a variety of artists, students and
young in-crowd. But its more than just a caf - the adjacent
hotel has modern and aordable double rooms.QG-1,
Gleimstrae 23, Prenzlauer Berg, MS/U Schnhauser
Allee, tel. +49 30 443 39 70, www.schall-und-rauch.de.
Open 08:00 - 02:00.

Nightlife
BARS
AUGUST FENGLER
A neighbourhood bar if there ever was one, there arent just
football tables downstairs, but a Kegelbahn (bowling alley)
too. The team behind the big wooden bar is friendly, and
the seating area is an undulating mass of coats and groups
of friends yakking up a storm. DJs play classics, soul, disco,
and funk in the small back dance room.QG-1, Lychner
Strae 11, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
www.augustfengler.de. Open 19:00 - 05:00.
46 Berlin In Your Pocket

@InYourPocket
WOHNZIMMER
If the TV show Friends had to relocate to Berlin, Phoebe
would vote to hang out here. The large living room is
ideally set up for meeting people. Stools, chairs and GDRera tables are constantly being shued to make room
for the rumpled but attractive crowds. Theres coee and
pastries in the morning.QH-1, Lettestrae 6, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 445 54 58,
www.wohnzimmer-bar.de. Open 09:00 - 04:00.

CLUBS
GEBURTSTAGSKLUB
Twenty year-olds ll the two low-ceilinged rooms of this
otherwise spacious cellar. Dont miss the mad monthly drag
party with Nina Queer. Like at many clubs in Berlin, you
have to brave the walk down a dark courtyard.QH-2, Am
Friedrichshain 33, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Schillingstrae,
tel. +49 30 42 02 14 05, www.geburtstagsklub.de. Open
Fri, Sat, Sun 23:00 - 06:00.
SODA CLUB
In the courtyard of the Kulturbrauerei complex, Soda is a
fun club with an enthusiastic regular crowd. Salsa is played
on Thursdays and Sundays (5, starting o with a lesson
hour), and on Fridays and Saturdays theres ve danceoors
with electro, crossover, black and dance classics - girls get
in for free until 01:00.QSchnhauser Allee 36, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 443 151 55,
info@sodaberlin.de, www.soda-berlin.de. Open , Thu
20:00 - 04:00, Fri, Sat 23:00 - 07:00, Sun 19:00 - 04:00
Open Thu-Sun 19:00 - 04:00.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Prenzlauer Berg
Sightseeing
LANDMARKS
KULTURBRAUEREI
Follow the yellow brick wall of this 19th-century
brewery and youll eventually nd an entryway into a
nightlife Mecca that resembles an Old Town setting. A
cobblestone pedestrian way courses through the centre
of the complex, whose 25,000 square metres is lled with
bars, restaurants, clubs, galleries and a cinema. The only
thing you wont nd is freshly brewed beer; Schultheiss
shut down production here in 1967. Soda Club is a both
a restaurant and popular nightclub, and Kesselhaus and
Alte Kantine host anything from readings to theater to
live bands.QG-2, Schnhauser Allee 36-39, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalderstrae, tel. +49 30 44 31 51 52,
www.kulturbrauerei.de.

MUSEUMS
ZIMMERMEISTER BRUNZELS MIETSHAUS
Gentrication has transformed many Prenzlauer Berg
apartments into deluxe dream houses; this fascinating
museum shows master carpenter Brunzels apartment
in its original state, with extensive information about its
construction, utilities, furnishing and the often squalid
living conditions around 1900 in Prenzlauer Berg and
Berlin.QH-1, Dunckerstrae 77, Prenzlauer Berg,
MS Prenzlauer Allee, tel. +49 30 445 23 21, www.
ausstellung-dunckerstrasse.de. Open 11:00 - 16:30.
Closed Wed. Admission 2/1.

PARKS AND GARDENS


MAUERPARK
The immensely popular Wall Park has no greenery
to speak of; this is an intensely used piece of former
border strip thats especially busy on Sundays when it
hosts a flea market and the immensely popular Bearpit
Karaoke (every second Sunday from 15:00), where
anyone can grab the microphone and sing for a crowd
of thousands.QG-1, Eberswalder Strae, Prenzlauer
Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae, www.mauerpark.
info.

Shopping
BOOKS
SHAKESPEARE & SONS
An excellent little living-room style bookshop that came to
Berlin from Prague, selling used and new English-language
books as well as coee, tea, cakes and snacks. Leaf through
a classic novel while munching on banana bread.QH-1,
Raumerstrae 36, Prenzlauer Berg, MS Prenzlauer
Allee, tel. +49 30 40 00 36 85. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sun
11:00 - 19:00.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

5DXPHUVWU  >+HOPKROW]SODW]@  WDXVFKHGH

FASHION & SHOES


TAUSCHE TASCHEN
Bags with exchangeable aps in
over 100 dierent designs. Two
aps are included and various insets
equip the bag to suit any occasion.
QH-1, Raumerstrae 8, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Eberswalder Strae,
tel. +49 30 40 30 17 70, info@
tausche.de,
www.tausche.de.
Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00 18:00. Closed Sun.

MARKETS
FLOHMARKT AM MAUERPARK
Vegan snacks, bicycles, crafts, clothing, alternative
souvenirs and antiques - its all available (though not
particularly cheap) at the weekly Mauerpark ea market.
Arrive early to avoid the crowds.QG-1, Bernauer Strae
63-64, Prenzlauer Berg, MU Bernauer Strae, tel. 0176
29 25 00 21, www.mauerparkmarkt.de. Open , Sun 08:00
- 18:00. Closed Mon, Tue, Wed, Thu, Fri, Sat Open Sun
09:00-15:00.

Full contents online:


berlin.inyourpocket.com
December 2015 - January 2016

47

Kreuzberg
Thanks to a large Turkish
community and more
hippies, anarchists and
alternative folks than
you can shake a bong at,
Kreuzberg feels neither east
nor west. It was the black
sheep of West Berlin, literally
cornered up against the
death strip and left alone
to play loud music and
draw on the walls. By now,
the protesting students
of 1968 have grown grey
alongside the Turkish immigrants. Every year since 1987,
Kreuzberg relives its 15 minutes of fame during the traditional
May Day political demonstrations, which invariably turn into
a long night of stone-throwing and burning cars. Otherwise,
Kreuzberg is a perfectly safe district to wander through, and
its all about backgammon at the mens clubs, caf-sitting
along Landwehrkanal, and ambling down the popular
Oranienstrae and Bergmannstrae drags.
This chapter also covers areas south of Kreuzberg: leafy
Treptow west along the river Spree, the Tempelhof
airport-turned-park which attracts thousands of visitors
in summer, and the upcoming Neuklln district. Here,
the Kreuzklln area around Reuterstrae is increasingly
attracting hipsters, artists, artsy boutiques and weird
nightlife spots.

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48 Berlin In Your Pocket

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POCKET WALK: KREUZBERG


Kreuzberg is best explored in two parts. From Platz der
Luftbrcke station walk west to Viktoriapark and climb the
Kreuzberg for views north over the city. Descend eastwards
and walk along genteel Bergmannstrae, perhaps
visiting a caf or the market hall, before walking south to
Columbiadamm for access to the the former Tempelhof
airport, now a wonderful park.
Start a tour of the fascinating eastern end of Kreuzberg
at Kottbusser Tor U-Bahn station; wander north through
little Istanbul to Oranienplatz and follow the park to
the Engelbecken pond where you can follow the former
Wall along Bethaniendamm to Mariannenplatz, a centre
of Berlin subculture. Stroll down Waldemarstrae to
caf-lined Lausitzerplatz and cross under the U-Bahn
line to lively Grlitzer Park. From here, go north into
Falckensteinstrae to discover more of Kreuzbergs street
art, or head south along Ohlauer Strae and across
Landwehrkanal into the trendy Kreuzklln district for
cupcakes and cocktails.

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Str.

Zimmerstr.

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ten

p
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GETTING THERE
The Bergmannstrae area is best reached from
Friedrichstrae station on the U6; get o at Mehringdamm,
or at Platz der Luftbrcke for the Viktoriapark. For the gritty
end of Kreuzberg hop on the U8 from Alexanderplatz
and pop up at Kottbusser Tor. The Kreuzklln bars are
within pubcrawling distance of Schnleinstrae and
Hermannplatz stations, on the same line.

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Kreuzberg
Restaurants & Cafs
GERMAN
ALTES ZOLLHAUS
A bit of countryside in the city - the beautiful old customs
house along an idyllic stretch of the Landwehrkanal has a
calm, rustic atmosphere in which to try regional specialities
featuring things such as goats cheese, dumplings, mustard
sauce and compotes.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 30, Kreuzberg,
MU Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 33 00, www.alteszollhaus.com. Open 18:00 - 23:00. Closed Mon, Sun. .
TUGBW

ASIAN
CHAN
A sleek eatery with large pastel paintings of faces, cleancut design, and a surprising menu consisting of typical
Asian street food. Theres everything from Thai spring
rolls, Indonesian sate, and Cambodian noodle soup to a
Vietnamese banana dessert. Fresh juices and smoothies
too.QH-5, Paul-Lincke-Ufer 42, Kreuzberg, MU
Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 69 53 33 22, www.chanberlin.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 13:00 - 24:00.
. UNGBSW

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

PAGODE
Simply one of the best
Thai restaurants in town.
It feels crowded, steamy
and noisy, but thats just
part of the authentic selfservice atmosphere; wait
till you sink your teeth in the fantastic food. The open
kitchen uses fresh vegetables and herbs that are own
in from Bangkok; all the Thai classics are present. Theres
seating indoors and in the basement room, as well as
outside. Ask if you like it hot.QF-5, Bergmannstrae
88, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30
691 26 40, www.pagode-thaifood.de. Open 12:00 24:00. . VBS
KIMCHI PRINCESS
Though this is not Berlins rst Korean restaurant, Kimchi
Princess is being hailed by the capitals gourmets as the
rst one to serve authentic dishes that is, not drowned
in cream and sauce like most Asian food here. Its indeed
excellent and spicy, and as a result it can be dicult to
nd a free table in the evening.QH-4, Skalitzer Strae 36,
Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 163 458 02
03, www.kimchiprincess.com. Open 18:00 - 01:00. .
TUGBSW

December 2015 - January 2016

49

Kreuzberg
KINNAREE THAI
Named after a mythological creature representing female
beauty and grace, Kinnaree is a friendly and aordable
Thai restaurant serving everything from Satay Gai chicken
skewers in peanut sauce to spicy green curry with shrimps
and bamboo. Theres a range of cocktails and quality wines
too.QSdstern 14, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 57 79 41 99,
www.kinnaree-thai.de. Open 12:0023:00, Sat 13:00
23:00.
SARODS
Kreuzbergs friendliest Thai restaurant. The food is excellent,
healthy, fresh and gluten-free, with some unusual options
on the extensive menu such as the Lab (minced meat
with roast rice, coriander and spices). Theres a good
selection of wines too.QFriesenstrae 22, Kreuzberg,
MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 69 50 73 33, www.
sarods.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 14:00 - 24:00. .
TGBSW

AUSTRIAN
AUSTRIA
Have your Wiener Schnitzel and Salzburger Fritattatorte
where they do it right, here in Austria. This corner
restaurant is known for its huge portions, so indulge in
the full experience or go for the half portion. The setting
is appropriatly alpine with heavy wooden furnishings
and antlers on the wall.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 30,
Kreuzberg, MU Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 44
40, www.austria-berlin.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00. .
TUBS
JOLESCH
Excellent Austrian cuisine and wines in a quirky corner
of Kreuzberg. Jolesh, a classy yet good-value restaurant,
is named after Tante Jolesch, a Viennese auntie who
loved to cook. It serves a great Wiener Schnitzel as well
as dishes like goulash and Kaiserschmarrn, choppedup pancakes with sugar and fruit jam. Breakfast is
served until 17:00, so take your time for brunch.
Reservations recommended.QH-4, Muskauer Strae

Admiralsbrcke

50 Berlin In Your Pocket

1, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30


612 35 81, www.jolesch.de. Open 11:00 - 24:00, Sat,
Sun 09:30 - 24:00. . GB
RIEHMERS
The elegant and understated Riehmers restaurant serves
a fantastic Wiener Schnitzel (breaded veal escalope),
amongst seasonal dishes like roast pike perch and crepes
with roast apricots. The dining room is kept bare and
simple, while the calm summer terrace in the garden
overlooks a historic apartment complex for Prussian
ocers.QF-5, Hagelbergerstrae 9, Kreuzberg, MU
Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 78 89 19 80, www.riehmersrestaurant.de. Open 18:00 - 01:00. Closed Mon. -.
TGBSW

FAST FOOD
BERGMANN CURRY
A friendly fast food joint with quality organic Currywurst, fries, meat
balls and more. The menus include
the upmarket Rockefella dish
(served on porcelain, with a glass
of champagne), and theres vegan
wurst and burgers, and sweet
potato chips too. If you dare, ask for a drop of searing hot
chilli sauce from the bottles on the board of pain.QBergmannstrae 88, tel. +49 50 56 51 54, www.bergmanncurry.com. Open 12:00 - 24:00, Sun 12:00 - 21:00.
CURRY 36
If you want to eat Currywurst the proper Berlin way, youll
order yours here boiled and naked. It looks a little pale in
comparison to the ones with their pink skins on, but you
might earn an iota of respect from the hard-boiled Fraus
who work the stand. Other proletarian Berlin specialities
you can take to the stand-up outdoor tables are the fried
burgers, Boulette.QF-5, Mehringdamm 36, Kreuzberg,
MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 251 73 68, www.
curry36.de. Open 09:00 - 05:00. . S

Photo: Martin Knzel

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Kreuzberg
GLCK TO GO
This unusual fast-food restaurant was inspired by a trip to
Indias Gujarat province and serves happiness to go: delicious
protein-rich vegetarian/vegan burgers, fries with ayurvedic
spices, and healthy juice concoctions; all home-made with
organic and regionally sourced ingredients. The delicious
Orient Express burger has beet root, spices and special date
chutney, and theres three other burgers to choose from.
Finish o with a low-fat Shrikhand yoghurt. Set menus
from 6-8,50.QF-5, Friesenstrae 26, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 623 10 04, www.glueck-togo.de. Open 10:00-20:00, Sat, Sun 12:00-20:00. . B

FINE DINING
SPINDLER
Several upmarket restaurants have made their home
along this lovely stretch of canal in Kreuzberg. Spindler
ts right in, serving gourmet cuisine by star chef Nicolas
Gemin in the casual, classy interior of a former industrial
building. The seasonal mains include dishes like Parmesan
polenta, haunch of venison and pork belly. During the
week theres Coeehouse-style lunch, and at weekends
an excellent brunch too.QPaul-Lincke-Ufer 42,
Kreuzberg, MU Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 30 69 59 88
80, eat@spindler-berlin.com, www.spindler-berlin.com.
Open 09:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 23:00.

Fantastic Berliner
ner
e Currywurst,
Curryw
quality organic
g c and
a vega
vegan
g snacks,,
and
nd a ranggee of hoto chili
c sauces.
ssauces
Open daily
ily 122:0
2:00-24:00
Sunday 12:000-21:00
Bergmannstrrae 88
Berlin-Kreuzbberg
www.bergmann-currry.com

INDIAN
AMAR
A large, cosy restaurant with modern furnishings, Indian
elements and big windows overlooking the terrace, lled with
eating locals and visitors in summertime. Amar serves attractive
Indian weekday lunch menus from just 4.40, and delicious
dinner courses, just as spicy as you need it to be. After dinner,
the cocktail menu usually convinces the young clientele to
stay longer. One of the most famous and beloved Restaurant
for good food, service, atmosphere and cheep prices.QI-4,
Schlesische Strae 9, Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel.
+49 30 69 56 66 73, www.amar-berlin.de. Open 11:3001:00, Fri, Sat 12:00-02:00. . TUNGBS
SWERA
Right on Kreuzbergs popular Bergmannstrasse, Swera is an
authentic Indian restaurant with a range of dishes from the
subcontinent, including many vegetarian and vegan options.
On weekdays, theres a lling business lunch oer from 4,50
including a wide range of curries. Swera also doubles as a
cocktail bar, serving exotic drinks till late at night; arrive in
time for happy hour for good deals.QBergmannstr. 103,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 61 20 33 01,
res.swera@gmx.de, www.swera.de. Open 11:00 - 01:00.

INTERNATIONAL
ANKERKLAUSE
The bohemians that hang out here are late-risers who
come to watch the Turkish market unfold and witness how
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peacefully gulls, swans and cruise boats can co-exist. On a


good day, the French toast with fruit can come out looking
like its auditioning for the Waldorf-Astorias buet. The
Mexican breakfast will tide you over for two meals.QH-5,
Kottbusser Damm 104, Neuklln, MU Schnleinstrae,
tel. +49 30 693 56 49, www.ankerklause.de. Open 10:0004:00, Mon 16:00-04:00. . TUNGB
HOPPETOSSE
An elegant white ship moored along Treptows Arena
complex serves a small range of excellent-value regional and
international meals to go with good sunset views towards
Oberbaumbrcke bridge, just upstream. For daytime visitors
theres drinks, lunch and cakes too. Sit up on deck to catch
the sea breeze.QI-5, Eichenstrae 4, Treptow, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 53 32 03 40, www.arenaberlin.de. Open 12:00-23:00. -. NGBSW
SAGE RESTAURANT
If theres such a thing as industrial charm, this is where
to nd it; a fantastically designed restaurant with starkly
modern and white furnishings contrasting with raw
factory bricks, peeling paint and chains. The food served
is imaginative gastronomy; in summer, Sage opens earlier
to serve lunch on its riverside terrace with deckchairs and
a beach bar.QH-4, Kpenicker Strae 18-20, Kreuzberg,
MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 755 49 40 71, www.
sage-restaurant.de. Open from 18:00. Closed Mon. .
TUEGBW
December 2015 - January 2016

51

Kreuzberg
VAN LOON
Where better to eat sh than at this lovely restaurant
ship, moored in the peaceful Urbanhafen habour on
the Landwehrkanal: the downstairs lounge has large
windows, but the views better from the sundeck. Theres
salmon, herring and smoked sh specialities as well as a
range of special sh & chips. The daily menu has meat,
vegetarian and vegan meals too.QG-5, Carl-Herz-Ufer 7,
Kreuzberg, MU Prinzenstrae, tel. +49 30 692 62 93,
www.vanloon.de. Open 09:00-01:00. . TENG
BW

ITALIAN
CALIGARI
A charming Italian bistro in the awakening Schillerkiez
neighbourhood of Neuklln, with freshly made pasta,
soups, salads and deserts. Theyre planning Supper
Club nights too, in which all kinds of wonderful things
could happen.QKienitzer Str. 110, Neuklln, tel. +49
30 52 64 98 41, www.caligariberlin.de. Open 18:00
- 23:00.
CICCIOLINA
Dedicated to divas such as Je Koons porn star ex-wife La
Cicciolina and a host of other beauties (whose portraits
adorn the hallway by the toilets), this unpretentious
Italian restaurant has well-priced and very tasty food,
and a great terrace. For something out of the ordinary, try

the Strasburgo ammkuchen pizza with cream, mustard


and Tirol bacon.QH-4, Spreewaldplatz 5, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 65 71 60,
www.cicciolina-berlin.de. Open 12:00 - 24:00. -.
TUNGBSW
GORGONZOLA CLUB
An In Your Pocket favourite, serving the best and biggest
carpaccio weve had, and with lovely seating in the green
outdoor courtyard. The prices for the fresh pastas, pizzas
and other dishes are by all means reasonable, and there
are additional changing dinner options too. For afterdinner cocktails simply go next door to the Wrgeengel
bar.QH-4, Dresdener Strae 121, Kreuzberg,
MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30 615 64 73, www.
gorgonzolaclub.de. Open 18:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 18:00
- 02:00. . B
OSTERIA N1
Next to Viktoriapark, this neighbourhood xture has a
fantastic Biergarten bordered by lemon, cherry and olive
trees. Classic regional cuisine is prepared by cooks from
dierent parts of Italy, and everything is made fresh to order.
Order a pasta with Toscan hare ragout or salmon in orange
sauce. Perhaps the most child-friendly place in town, too.
Choose from six dierent lunch menus from 7.QF-5,
Kreuzbergstrae 71, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 786 91 62, www.osteria-uno.de. Open 12:00
- 01:00. . B

CAF RISTORANTE BAR

MonSat 12:0001:00 | Sun 16:0001:00


Tel. +49 30 - 69 50 69 30
52 Berlin In Your Pocket

Skalitzer Strae 34, Berlin-Kreuzberg


Email: info@trentasei.de
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Kreuzberg
(Schnleinstrae U-Bahn station), Neuklln, MU
Schnleinstrae, tel. +49 151 50 10 13 88, www.riceup.de. Open 07:00-19:00, Sat 10:00-19:00. Closed
Sun. . S

LATIN-AMERICAN

Trentasei

SALE E TABACCHI
This attractive restaurant with a nice garden and real Italian
waiters is a good option near Checkpoint Charlie, and is
not far from the Jewish Museum either. Theres a goodvalue lunch on weekdays, plus a wide range of imaginative
pasta, meat and sh dishes.QF-4, Rudi-Dutschke-Str.
25, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 252 11 55,
reservierung@sale-e-tabacchi.de, www.sale-e-tabacchi.
de. Open 10:00 - 23:30. -. TGBSW
TRENTASEI
Try home-made tortellini, regional ingredients, Italian
wines and fresh sh specialities at Trentasei, referring to
the 36 nickname for this part of the district. The warmly-lit
interior has a cabin feel, with plenty of brick and wood,
plus old-fashioned chairs around the tables.QSkalitzer
Str. 34, Kreuzberg, tel. +49 30 69 50 69 30, info@
trentasei.de, www.trentasei.de. Open 12:00 - 01:00,
Sun 16:00 - 01:00.
VICOLO BERGMANN
Tasty Sicilian food is served at this rustic restaurant on the
sunny side of the street. Fresh quality meat, seafood and
vegetables are used to make the authentic pastas, pizzas
or the meat and sh dishes, and theres home-made bread
too. The small uncluttered space with randomly exposed
bricks is decorated with newspaper cuttings. Dont miss the
sinfully sweet Sicilian desserts.QF-5, Bergmannstrae 88,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm, tel. +49 30 69 00 44 88,
info@vicolo-bergmann.de, www.vicolo-bergmann.de.
Open 12:00 - 24:00. .

JAPANESE
RICE UP
A tiny onigiri kiosk on the platform of the U-Bahn
station sells delicious organic bento box take-away
meals, consisting of nori seaweed, rice and various
fillings: vegan, veg, fish or chicken. Theres coffee,
chai, lemonade and smoothies too. Also in Mitte,
at Friedrichstrae 114.QH-5, Kottbusser Damm
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QUE PASA
Mexican food lovers this is your new spot! Que Pasa serves
sizzling fajitas, enchiladas, burritos as well as the traditional
plate of nachos and all of these all time favorites taste just
as you would imagine if not better. During dinner be sure
to try one or two of their many fabulous cocktails for the
best price in town 3,50. The atmosphere is also festive
with Mayan paintings on the walls and doorways.QH-4,
Skalitzer Strae 107, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 81 49 26 14, www.quepasa.at. Mon-Thu from
15:00, Fri/Sat from 12:00, Sun from 10:00. . THE
NGBSW

BEER GARDENS
DAS EDELWEISS
The goods platform of the old Grlitzer Bahnhof train
station now serves as a lovely deck-chaired terrace for the
Edelweiss restaurant and caf. Theres all-day breakfast,
great German cuisine with seasonal and regional products,
drinks, and live Jazz sessions on Tuesday nights. Its especially
well-positioned for people-watching; Grlitzer Park
attracts Berlins most varied crowd.QH-5, Grlitzerstrae
1-3 (Grlitzer Park), Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof,
tel. +49 30 61 07 48 58, www.edelweiss36.com. Open
09:30-02:00. . TUEBW

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GOLGATHA
The most gruesome end youll meet at this Biergarten at the
southwest end of Viktoriapark is the sunrise. Those watching
their melanoma sit under the red umbrellas near the tablefootball and grill, while sunbathers go to the rooftop for a
view of the playground and football eld. DJ music begins
most nights at 22:00 inside on the small dance oor.QF-5,
Katzbachstrae (Viktoriapark), Kreuzberg, MU Platz der
Luftbrcke, tel. +49 30 785 24 53, www.golgatha-berlin.
de. Open from 10:00. . TUBSW
LUFTGARTEN
The large Biergarten around the former US ocers casino
in Tempelhofer Freiheit park has Bavarian beer, tables
beneath the chestnut trees and deckchairs in the sun.
Drop by for the American barbeque, large hamburgers
and other international food.QTempelhofer Freiheit
Park, Columbiadamm entrance, tel. +49 152 22 55 91
75, www.luftgarten-berlin.de. Open from 12:00 until
around sunset. . UENGBS
December 2015 - January 2016

53

Kreuzberg
WELTRESTAURANT MARKTHALLE
Within a historic market hall
building, the rustic Markthalle
restaurant is long and tall, with
wainscoting, simple wooden
furniture and a bar that locals belly
up to. Its a restaurant that doesnt
let its looks carry it: the kitchen
takes pride in its nouvelle takes
on German and Austrian standards. The menu changes
weekly, but count on Sptzle, Schweinebraten (braised
pork), and apple strudel. Breakfasts run from Russian to
American-style, and as late as 16:00. After dinner, check
if anything is going down in the Auster Club in the cellar.
QH-4, Pcklerstrae 34, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 617 55 02, www.weltrestaurantmarkthalle.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. . B

CAFS
CAF AM ENGELBECKEN
Opposite the impressive, partially-restored St. Michaels
church is a pond, sunk into a depressed parkway that was
once a canal. Hidden away at the reedy edge of the pond is
a sunny terrace caf. View of the water and the rustling tall
green reeds makes this a peaceful respite from all things city
while still being near the heart of Kreuzberg (and can you
believe this area was once lled with rubble, and part of the
Walls death strip?). Pizza and snacks are served and they
oer a choice of cocktails.QH-4, Michaelkirchplatz, Mitte,
MU Heinrich-Heine-Strae, tel. +49 157 88 94 70 91,
www.cafe-am-engelbecken.de. Open 10:00 - 24:00. .
TUNGBSW
CAF RIX
A fabulous caf thats completely worth the trek out to
Berlins shabbiest and most multicultural neighbourhood.
Many entertainment halls were built in this part of town,
attracting thousands of Berliners at weekends. Rix is
one of the last remaining entertainment halls in the
area, dating from 1880 and all gold twirls, high ceilings
and big mirrors. Its just perfect for sipping coee and
munching on cake, or for a well-prepared meal. Combine

54 Berlin In Your Pocket

it with a concert at the adjacent Heimathafen or a visit


to Rixdorfs old village square and the lush Krnerpark.
QKarl-Marx-Strae 141, Neuklln, MU Karl-MarxStrae, tel. +49 30 686 90 20, www.caferix.de. Open
09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat 09:00 - 01:00, Sun 10:00 - 24:00.
. TUNGBSW
KUCHENKAISER
A melting pot for Berliners, their friends and visitors since
1866, the cake emperor is famous for its cakes and tarts,
which were sent exclusively by the Hindenburg to New
York in the 1920s. The restaurant also has a wide variety of
German specialities and international dishes. Theres a great
choice of breakfasts, a low-cost lunch, and a huge brunch
on Sundays. A must-see in Berlin.QG/H-4, Oranienplatz
11-13, Kreuzberg, MU Moritzplatz, tel. +49 30 61 40 26
97, www.kuchenkaiser.de. Open 09:00 - 24:00, Fri, Sat
09:00 - 01:00. . B
SALON SCHMCK
A crash-pad style neighbourhood caf that looks like a
time-warp from the 1970s with its funky furniture. The
food is fresh however, and you can dig into breakfast,
lunch and fantastic home-made juice - just make your
own selection of fruit. Come evening and there are
cocktails and DJs, and even the occasional living room
concert.QI-4, Skalitzer Strae 80, Kreuzberg, MU
Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 69 00 47 75, www.salonschmueck.de. Open 09:00-02:00, Fri, Sat 09:00-05:00.
. TNGBSW

Nightlife
BARS
FREISCHWIMMER
After a ve-minute walk south of Schlesisches Tor, follow
the bush-lined pathway left after the petrol station to this
peaceful bar that hovers over a side canal. In summer use
the comfy deck lounges; in cooler weather heat lamps help
keep away the chill.QI-5, Vor dem Schlesischen Tor 2a,
Kreuzberg, MU Schlesisches Tor, tel. +49 30 61 07 43
09, www.freischwimmer-berlin.de. Open Mo-Fri from
12:00, Sat, Sun from 10:00. TUENGBW

berlin.inyourpocket.com

Kreuzberg
GALANDER
A wonderfully classic bar, furnished with 1920s-style
fauteuils and woodwork. Apart from beer, Galander
has an excellent selection of wine and can mix some
quite unusual cocktails for you. Occasionally the piano is
played too. Recommended for a quality night out.QF-4,
Grossbeerenstrae 54, Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm,
tel. +49 30 28 50 90 30, www.galander-berlin.de. Open
18:00 - 02:00. Closed Mon. E

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MILCHBAR
It is the foam of beer that lines the upper lip of patrons of
Milchbar, home to punks, students, and aging alternative
types still loyal to the sounds of punk, ska, thrash, and
hard rock. The crowd is not so anarchic as to not want to
cheer on their teams when football games are screened.
The murals and dark dcor can heighten your wooziness if
youve had one round too many.QH-4, Manteuelstrae
41, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 611
70 06, www.milchbar-berlin.de. Open 17:00 - 04:00.
NBW
ROSES
Its all so tactile here - both the fuzzy red walls and people
packed end to end in this tiny kitsch-o-mat. The music is
clubby and the upbeat energy makes it a good choice for
a solo night out. The ladies behind the bar are favourites
of Siegessule, the local gay listings magazine.QH-4,
Oranienstrae 187, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel.
+49 30 615 65 70. Open 22:00-04:00.

SO36
Live bands perform nearly every night at this institution
thats home to any alternative lifestyle, from gay Turks
and metal heads to hardcore punks and goth vegans.
On popular club nights, like the Ugly X Bad Taste Party or
Gayhane, show up before 01:00 or face a long wait with the
friendly door sta.QH-4, Oranienstrae 190, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 61 40 13 06, www.
so36.de. Check their website for opening times.
UENG
WILD AT HEART
Rock on. One of Berlins rare live-music venues brings in
hardcore and punk bands touring the planet. Theres an
occasional DJ night as well. Booths and seating in the front
rooms make conversation manageable. Bring earplugs
for the stage area.QH-5, Wiener Strae 20, Kreuzberg,
MU Grlitzer Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 610 74 701, www.
wildatheartberlin.de. Open 20:00 - 04:00. ENB

MUSEUMS
DEUTSCHES TECHNIKMUSEUM
One of Berlins best museums is unmistakably recognisable
by the Douglas C-47 plane suspended above the main
building. The huge complex set in and around an old
freight station rail depot has planes, trains, cars, bikes,
computers, phones, radios and much more. Outside there
are windmills and a brewery. Theres a hands-on Spectrum
science centre for children too.QF-4, Trebbiner Strae
9, Kreuzberg, MU Gleisdreieck, tel. +49 30 90 25 40,
www.sdtb.de. Open 09:00 - 17:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 6/3,5.

WRGEENGEL
Pronounced woor-ge-en-gel and named after Bunuels
lm El ngel Exterminador, this dark brown bar is a
great place for a drink and a snack. The tapas list has a
dozen tasty options, while the cocktail menu has over 50
reasons to delay your departure. To round it all o, there
are Cuban and other cigars to enjoy.QH-4, Dresdener
Strae 122, Kreuzberg, MU Kottbusser Tor, tel. +49 30
615 55 60, www.wuergeengel.de. Open from 19:00.
. B

CLUBS
JUNCTION BAR
Squeezing onto the bat-cave of a stage is ne for a fourman blues band, but dios mio for the ten-piece AfroCuban ensembles. Live music draws an ethnically and
generationally mixed audience every night of the week.
After the band, a DJ keeps everyone tight on the dance
oor.QF-5, Gneisenaustrae 18, Kreuzberg, MU
Gneisenaustrae, tel. +49 30 694 66 02, www.junctionbar.de. Open 20:00-04:00. ENGB
Kreuzberg street art

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visitBerlin, Philip Koschel

December 2015 - January 2016

55

Kreuzberg
Sightseeing
GAME SCIENCE CENTER
The new Game Science Center is a small, interactive
museum of the future, run by a team of game developers.
Introducing a number of innovative technologies and
playful projects, visitors can learn about and try many
new ways to interact with computers - for example with
gestures or eye movements. Try out the Oculus Rift VR
glasses, the Nagual Dance installation, or play table tennis
with the computer in Pong Invaders.QCharlottenstr. 1,
Kreuzberg, www.gamesciencecenter.de. Open 11:00 19:00. Closed Tue. Admission 14/8.
HAUS AM CHECKPOINT CHARLIE
A homespun Great Escape museum of false trunks, tools,
videos, even a submarine, and stills of tunnel-digging attest to
necessity and desire being the mother of invention. Visit this
museum for dramatic stories of separated lovers, freedomseeking families, and fed-up senior citizens in the GDR who
breached the Wall. The museum also has art interpreting the
concrete division of the city, and an exhibit on human rights
movements.QF-4, Friedrichstrae 43-45, Kreuzberg, MU
Kochstrae, tel. +49 30 251 20 75, www.mauermuseum.
de. Open 09:00 - 22:00. Admission 12,50/9,50.
JDISCHES MUSEUM BERLIN
The famous zinc-plated fortress designed by Daniel Libeskind
contains a moving perspective on the many ways in which
German life and Jewish history are intricately interwoven. The
interior contains dark voids for contemplation, but the exhibits
cover much more than the Holocaust chapter of Jewish
history in Germany.QF-4, Lindenstrae 9-14, Kreuzberg,
MU Hallesches Tor, tel. +49 30 25 99 33 00, www.jmberlin.
de. Open 10:00 - 20:00, Mon 10:00 - 22:00. Admission
5/2,50, special exhibitions 4/2, combined ticket 7/3,50.
MARTIN-GROPIUS-BAU
Dusty pink brick, gilded mosaics, stucco work run riot - this
is the work of Great Uncle Gropius, not Walter Bauhaus
Gropius. Completed in 1881, the beauty once held an arts
and crafts museum. Today the Martin-Gropius-Bau hosts
excellent touring exhibitions. Until 10 August: David Bowie.
QF-4, Niederkirchnerstrae 7, Kreuzberg, MS/U Potsdamer Platz, tel. +49 30 25 48 60, www.gropiusbau.de.
Open 10:00 - 20:00. Closed Tue.
TOPOGRAPHIE DES TERRORS
Beside a souvenir-ravaged stretch of Wall, the cellars are all
that remain of the palace housing the Reich Security (SS)
Oce. The fascinating exhibition in the trench and the
adjacent pavilion and park uses models, texts and photos to
highlight the topography of the Third Reich police, military
and security groups that were headquartered in this area,
and discusses their organisation and the terror they cast
across Europe. The most important lesson to take home
is perhaps that these organisation only managed to thrive
thanks to the continuous cooperation of many institutes
56 Berlin In Your Pocket

and citizens. Set aside 2-3 hours to do it justice.QF-4,


Niederkirchnerstrae 8, Kreuzberg, MU Kochstrae, tel.
+49 30 25 45 09 50, www.topographie.de. Open 10:00 20:00. Admission free.

PARKS & GARDENS


TEMPELHOFER FREIHEIT
Berlins most amazing space is this historic and wide open
airport just south of Kreuzberg, which closed in 2008 and
was opened as a park in 2010. Now the runways and taxi
lanes are used by bikers, inline skaters and kiteboarders.
Theres even a Biergarten at the northern end. Note that
turnstiles allow exit from the park after closing time as
well. Also easily accessed from U-Bahn stations Tempelhof
and Boddinstrasse.QF/G-6, Columbiadamm, MS/U
Tempelhof, www.tempelhoferfreiheit.de. Open March
06:00-19:00, April & Sept 06:00-20:30, May & Aug 06:0021:30, June & July 06:00-22:30, Oct 07:00-19:00, Dec, Jan
07:30-17:00, Feb & Nov 07:00-18:00. Admission free.
VIKTORIAPARK
Before heading up the hill, crowned with Karl Friedrich
Schinkels memorial to the Napoleonic Wars, go to the corner
of Kreuzbergstrae and Grobeerenstrae for an eyeful of
the parks waterfall, constructed in the late 19th century.
Kids stripped to their knickers wade in between the shallow,
tiered levels. 65 metres above, people lean back against the
grati-laden monument to take in the panoramic view.
Towards the back of the park, past a playground and o the
Bacci eld, is the Golgotha beer garden. Running parallel
to Kreuzbergstrae is a small petting zoo where children
and goats get to meet and bleat.QF-5, Kreuzbergstrae,
Kreuzberg, MU Mehringdamm.

Shopping
MARKTHALLE IX
When Berlins rapid growth and new hygiene measures
made the street markets redundant in the late 19th
century, the city built a series of grand brick market halls
in all districts, ensuring a supply of quality products to all
corners of the city. Markthalle IX, or market hall number
9, is one of just two such halls that survived war and
city planners, saved by several shops that rented space
inside. A few years ago some young entrepreneurs
restarted the weekly markets in the building, adding
events like cake, crafts and Christmas markets. Its been
a resounding success, with the streetfood markets on
Thursday evenings attracting hipsters from all over
town. Arrive early to beat the beardy crowds!
MARKTHALLE IX
QH-4, Eisenbahnstrae 42, Kreuzberg, MU Grlitzer
Bahnhof, tel. +49 30 577 09 46 61, www.markthalle9.
de. Open Fri, Sat 10:00-18:00. Admission free.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

City tours

B ERLINER U NTERWELTEN E.V.

Society for the Exploration and Documentation of Subterranean Architecture

Berlin from below


Cold War and WW II bunker tours

Different underground tours Mar Nov daily Dec Feb Thur Mon
Subway Gesundbrunnen (U8), Brunnenstr. 105 www.berliner-unterwelten.de
Theres a story on every corner in Berlin, though youll need
a guide to hear it. Its a huge, fascinating city and attractions
are fairly far-ung, so plan your itinerary well. If youre here
for a limited amount of time, we highly recommend you
join one of the walking or cycling tours to get your bearings.

BUS, CAR & PLANE TOURS


BERLIN CITY TOUR
Open-top doubledecker buses circle the main sights in about
two hours; the green ones have live English commentary;
red ones have audioguides. Board at Kurfrstendamm 14,

BERLIN UNDERWORLDS

Berlin Underworlds allows you to experience Berlins


history from an unusual perspective, through its
underground installations dating back to the Cold War,
World War II and earlier.
Though predominantly in the spaces below Berlins
Gesundbrunnen station, tours are also oered in several
other complexes usually not accessible to the public. The
following tours are held in English; check the website for
all dates and times, and for tours in German, Spanish,
Dutch, French, Italian and Danish. Tours take 90 minutes,
the M tour is 2 hours.
Tour 1, Dark Worlds: a bunker from the Nazi era.
Tour 2, From Flak Towers to Mountains of Debris:
visit the the rubble-lled Humboldthain Flak Tower, a
devastated albeit fascinating underground world.
Tour 3, Subways, Bunkers, Cold War: a political history
of Berlin from an unusual perspective.
facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

the Town Hall or Brandenburger Tor and hop-on or hop-o


as you like. Theres also a narrated Wall & Lifestyle tour taking
in the main Wall sights and some trendy districts.Qtel. +49
30 68 30 26 41, www.berlin-city-tour.de. Tickets 15/12/5.
CITY CIRCLE BUSES
Several tour bus companies operate hop-on hop-o
double-decker bus City Circle tours lasting 2.5 hours.
Buses run every 10 minutes, with narration in a dozen
languages. Kurfrstendamm 220 and Alexanderplatz are
the two main starting points, but you can get on and o at
some 20 stops. Besides Berolina, the operators are Berliner

Tour M, Breaching the Berlin Wall: subterranean


escapes from East Berlin to West Berlin.
Unterwelten also has a fascinating seasonal exhibition
about the Nazis megalomanic plans to turn Berlin into
the Welthauptstadt Germania, the World Capital City,
with documents, photos and models. The multimedia
exhibition Myth of Germania Vision and crime allows
visitors to peek inside Hitlers mind and explore the
complex topic of his city planning , and see what came
of the plans.
BERLINER UNTERWELTEN, Brunnenstrae 105
(Gesundbrunnen U-Bahn station, southern entrance),
tel. +49 30 49 91 05 17. Tours 11/9, tour M 14/11.
No reservation required, but check tour times and
languages online at www.berliner-unterwelten.de.
Myth of Germania exhibition open Apr-Nov, Thu-Sun
11:00-18:00, admission 6/5, 3 in combination with a
tour, www.mythos-germania.de.

December 2015 - January 2016

57

City tours
Bren Stadtrundfahrt (www.bbsberlin.de), BEX Sightseeing
(www.berlinerstadtrundfahrten.de) and Bus Verkehr
Berlin (www.bvb.net).Qtel. +49 30 88 56 80 30, www.
berolina-berlin.com. Open 10:00 - 18:00. Tickets 22/11.
Afternoon ticket (from 13:30) 16,50/11.

tour (counter culture; Tue, Fri, Sun at 10:30); these tours


cost 24/22 and no booking is required. Call or email
ahead for the Potsdam tour.QG-3, Panoramastrae 1a
(Fernsehturm), Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30
24 04 79 91, www.fattirebiketoursberlin.com.

WALKING & CYCLING TOURS

INBERLIN TOURS
Specialised walking tours for small groups: along the Wall
in Mitte or Treptow, or through the Kreuzberg, Prenzlauer
Berg, or Friedrichshain districts. Tours take place at xed
times and days, or made to suit your needs; reservations
required.Qtel. +49 174 157 48 36, info@inberlin.de,
www.inberlin.de. Tickets 10-16.

ALTERNATIVE BERLIN TOURS


After the 4-hour Real Berlin tour (daily at 12:00, 12) youll
know all about Berlins subcultures, the grati and stencil
art, street artists like Thierry Noir and Mr.6, the gay scene, and
the squatter and anti-fascist movements. Knowledgeable
resident artists poke at Berlins dark, fuzzy underbelly on
a variety of walks; there are also free short walks (daily at
11:00 and 13:00), twilight tours, a street art workshop and
an anti-pubcrawl.QMS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 162
819 82 64, www.alternativeberlin.com. Tickets 10-20.
ANITA SIKORAS BERLIN WALKS
The walking tours by guide and artist Anita Sikora oer a wide
choice of topics, ranging from David Bowie and Walter Benjamin
themed tours, walks around the Pankow district, to the Walls
course through the industrial Fireland district. Join a regular
group walk or book a private tour.Qtel. +49 176 68 60 16 63,
anitaeva75@gmail.com, www.anita-sikora.com. Tours 9.
BERLIN LOCALS
Tailor-made private city tours on foot, by minibus or by limo,
lead by local German historians who can often relate historical
events to their familys personal experience. Tour themes
range from The 1920s, Cold War and Third Reich to street art,
railways and architecture. The guides are also licenced for
Sachsenhausen concentration camp. Tours are in English or
German.Qtel. +49 177 238 00 02, info@berlinlocals.com,
www.berlinlocals.com. Tours 40 per hour, 250 per day.
BREWERS BERLIN
The 6-hour Best of Berlin (10:30) and the 3-hour Express
(13:00, tip only) tours are great introductions to the city.
Potsdam tours take place on Wed and Sat (09:20). The
meeting point for all tours is the Bandy Brooks ice cream
shop near Friedrichstrae station; no bookings are required.
QF-3, MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 177 388 15 37,
www.brewersberlintours.com. Tickets 15/12.
CITY SEGWAY TOURS
Hop on a self-balancing Segway scooter and - after a short
driving lesson - zip around Berlin on the four-hour general
tours (10:00 and 15:00, 67), or the shorter afternoon tour
(15:00, 43). Drivers license required.QG-3, Panoramastrae
1a, Mitte, MS/U Alexanderplatz, tel. +49 30 24 04 79 91,
berlin@citysegwaytours.com, www.citysegwaytours.com.
FAT TIRE BIKE TOURS
Grab a bike at the base of the TV Tower and spin through
town on the relaxed 4,5 hour daily city tour (11:00, from
May also 16:00), the Wall tour (Mon, Thu, Sat at 10:30),
the Third Reich tour (Wed, Fri, Sun at 10:30) and the Raw
58 Berlin In Your Pocket

INSIDER TOURS
Insiders enthusiastic guides go a long way to make you feel
like an insider on the daily 4-hour tours; starting from AMT
Coee at Hackescher Markt (10:30 and 15:00, 12/10). Other
tours are the Wall, Third Reich, Sachsenhausen, Potsdam,
Jewish Berlin and a pub crawl.QG-3, MS Hackescher
Markt, tel. +49 30 692 31 49, www.insidertour.com.
ISHERWOODS NEIGHBOURHOOD TOUR
In the 1920s Berlin was a veritable Sodom on the Spree
with 85,000 lesbians, open prostitution and an outrageous
club and revue theatre scene. The young gay British writer
Christopher Isherwood wove his experiences in Goodbye To
Berlin (of Cabaret fame). This excellent one-hour tour through
Isherwoods Berlin around Nollendorfplatz is spiced up with
quotes and references to notorious 1920s party-goers like Anita
Berber and Marlene Dietrich.QD-4/5, MU Nollendorfplatz,
tel. +49 151 25 22 03 42, brendan@10777tours.com, www.
cabaret-berlin.com. Tours Sat at 11:00, and on demand.
Book ahead. Tickets 12.
ORIGINAL BERLIN WALKS
The daily 3,5-hour Discover Berlin tour starts at the
Weihenstephaner restaurant on Hackescher Markt at 10.30
and 14:00. Check online for themed tours like Third Reich,
Cold War, Queer Berlin, Jewish Berlin and Potsdam.Qtel. +49
30 301 91 94, www.berlinwalks.de. Tickets 12/10.
SLOW TRAVEL BERLIN TOURS
The Berlin blog dedicated to slow travel oers quirky culturalhistorical tours. In small groups you explore Berlins most
fascinating districts. Join a literary stroll in West Berlin, a walk
on Kreuzbergs wild west side, a trip along the Wall, down
lively Potsdamer Strasse, or march through Kaiser Wilhelms
Berlin.Qwww.slowtravelberlin.com/tours. Tickets 15.

RIVER CRUISES
MS SCHIFFSKONTOR
Rent an antique boat and sail just about anywhere on Berlins
waterways. Theres the rustic open-top Oskar from 1930, or
rent the elegant Italian Afrodite, a pink beauty from 1950 in
which youll look dashing with dark sunglasses and a owing
scarf. In winter, rent a ship for a dinner cruise on the Spree with
friends.Qtel. +49 30 246 47 99 60, www.schiffskontor.de.
berlin.inyourpocket.com

Directory & Street Register


BUSINESS CONNECTIONS

EMERGENCY NUMBERS

AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE


QCharlottenstrae 42, Mitte, MS/U Friedrichstrae,
tel. +49 30 28 87 89 20, www.amcham.de.
DEUTSCHE INDUSTRIE-UND HANDELSKAMMER
(CHAMBER OF COMMERCE) QBreite Strae 29,
Mitte, MU Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 20 30 80,
www.dihk.de.

EMBASSIES
AUSTRALIA QG-3, Wallstrae 76-79, Mitte, MU
Mrkisches Museum, tel. +49 30 880 08 80, www.
australian-embassy.de.
IRELAND QF-3, Jgerstrae 51, Mitte, MU
Hausvogteiplatz, tel. +49 30 22 07 20, www.
embassyofireland.de.

Emergencies, ambulance, re tel. +49 30 112;


Emergency doctor service tel. +49 30 31 00 31;
Police tel. +49 30 110;
Non-urgent police matters tel. +49 30 46 64 46 64.

HOSPITALS
BENJAMIN FRANKLIN CLINICAL CENTRE
QKlingsorstrae, Steglitz, MS/U Rathaus Steglitz, tel.
+49 30 84 45 30 15, www.medizin.fu-berlin.de.
CHARIT UNIVERSITTSKLINIKUM QF-3,
Schumannstrae 20-21, Mitte, MU Oranienburger Tor,
tel. +49 30 45 050, www.charite.de.

LANGUAGE SCHOOLS

UNITED KINGDOM QF-3, Wilhelmstrae 70-71,


Mitte, MU Franzsische Strae, tel. +49 30 20 45 70,
www.britischebotschaft.de.

BERLITZ MITTE QF-3, Friedrichstrae 95, Mitte,


MS/U Friedrichstrae, tel. +49 30 204 21 24, www.
berlitz.de/de/berlin_mitte.

USA American Citizen Services: tel. 832 92 33.QF-3,


Pariser Platz 2, Mitte, MS/U Brandenburger Tor, tel.
+49 30 830 50, www.usembassy.de.

GLS QG-2, Kastanienallee 82, Prenzlauer Berg, MU


Eberswalder Strae, tel. +49 30 78 00 89 16, www.glsgerman-courses.de.

Ackerstrae
Adalbertstrae
Admiralstrae
Albrechtstrae
Alexanderplatz
Alexanderstrae
Alexanderufer
Alexandrinenstrae
Alt-Moabit
Alte Jakobstrae
Alte Schnhauser Strae
Altonaer Strae
Am Friedrichshain
Am Karlsbad
Am Kupfergraben
Am Ostbahnhof
Anhalter Strae
Arndtstrae
Augsburger Strae
Auguststrae
Axel-Springer-Strae
Barnimstrae
Baruther Strae
Bayerischer Platz
Bebelplatz
Behrenstrae
Belforter Strae
Bergmannstrae
Bernauer Strae
Bethaniendamm
Beusselstrae
Bismarckstrae
Bleibtreustrae
Blcherstrae
Bodestrae
Btzowstrae
Brandenburger Tor
Breitscheidplatz
Brckenstrae
Brunnenstrae
Blowstrae
Bundesallee
Charlottenstrae
Chausseestrae
Choriner Strae
Christinenstrae
Danziger Strae

F/G-2
H-4
G/H-5
F-3
G-3
G-3
F-2/3
F-4
C-3/E-3
F-4
G-2
D-3
H-2
F-4
F-3
H-4
F-4
F-5
C/D-4
F/G-2
F-4
H-2/3
F-5
D-5
F-3
F-3
G/H-2
F/G-5
F/G-1/2
H-4
C-2
B/C-3/4
C-4
F/G-5
F-3
H/I-2
F-3
C-4
H-3/4
F/G-1/2
E-4/5
C-4/6
F-3/4
F-2
G-2
G-2
G-1/I-2

Dorotheenstrae
F-3
Dresdener Strae
G-4
Dunckerstrae
H-1
Ebertstrae
F-3
Engeldamm
H-4
Erkelenzdamm
F-4
Ernst-Reuter-Platz
C-3
Fasanenstrae
C-4/5
Fehrbelliner Strae
G-2
Fischerinsel
G-3
Franzsische Strae
F-3
Friedensstrae
H-2/3
Friedrichstrae
F-3/4
Gartenstrae
F-1/2
Gendarmenmarkt
F-3
Georgenkirchstrae
H-2/3
Georgenstrae
F-3
Gertraudenstrae
G-3
Geschw.-Scholl-Strae
F-3
Gipsstrae
G-2
Gitschiner Strae
F-4
Glinkastrae
F-3
Gneisenaustrae
F/G-5
Grlitzer Strae
H/I-4/5
Grlitzer Ufer
I-5
Gormannstrae
G-2
Greifswalder Strae
H/I-1/2
Grolmannstrae
C-4
Grobeerenstrae
F-5
Groe Hamburger Strae G-2/3
Gruner Strae
G-3
Hallesches Ufer
F-4
Hardenbergplatz
C-4
Heidestrae
E-2
Heinrich-Heine-Strae
F-4
Heinrichplatz
H-4
Hohenstaufenstrae
D-5
Immanuelkirchstrae
H-2
Invalidenstrae
E-3/G-2
Johannisstrae
F-3
John-Foster-Dulles-Allee
E-3
Kaiserdamm
A/B-4
Kaiserin-Augusta-Allee
B/C-2
Kantstrae
B/C-4
Karl-Liebknecht-Strae
G-3
Karl-Marx-Allee
G/H/I-3
Kastanienallee
G-2

facebook.com/BerlinInYourPocket

Kl. Hamburger Strae


Kleiststrae
Knaackstrae
Knesebeckstrae
Kochstrae
Kollwitzplatz
Kollwitzstrae
Konstanzer Strae
Kpenicker Strae
Kottbusser Damm
Kottbusser Strae
Krausnickstrae
Kreuzbergstrae
Kurfrstendamm
Kurfrstenstrae
Landsberger Allee
Lausitzer Strae
Legiendamm
Leipziger Platz
Leipziger Strae
Leuschnerdamm
Lindenstrae
Linienstrae
Lobeckstrae
Luisenstrae
Ltzowufer
Manteuelstrae
Marburger Strae
Mariannenplatz
Marienstrae
Markgrafenstrae
Martin-Luther-Strae
Matthikirchstrae
Mauerstrae
Maybachufer
Mehringdamm
Mehringplatz
Meinekestrae
Melchiorstrae
Metzer Strae
Mittelstrae
Mckernstrae
Mohrenstrae
Molkenmarkt
Mollstrae
Mommsenstrae
Monbijoustrae

F-2
D/E-4
H-2
C-4
F-4
H-2
G/H-2
B-4/5
H/I-4
H-5
H-5
G-3
F-5
A-5/C-4
D/E-4
H/I-2
H-4/5
H-4
F-4
F/G-4
H-4
F/G-4
F/G-2
F-4
F-2/3
D/E-4
H-4/5
D-4
H-4
F-3
F-3/4
D-4/6
E-4
F-3/4
H-5
F-5
F-4
C-4
H-4
G/H-2
F-3
F-4/5
F-3
G-3
H-2/3
B/C-4
F-3

Motzstrae
C/D-4/5
Mhlendamm
G-3
Mhlenstrae
H/I-4
Mulackstrae
G-2
Museumsinsel
F-3
Muskauer Strae
H-4
Niederkirchnerstrae
F-4
Niederwallstrae
F-3
Nollendorfstrae
D/E-5
Oberbaumstrae
I-4
Olivaer Platz
B-4
Oranienburger Strae F/G-2/3
Oranienplatz
F-4
Oranienstrae
F/G-4
Otto-Braun-Strae
G/H-3
Otto-Suhr-Allee
B/C-3
Pappelallee
G/H-1
Pariser Platz
F-3
Paul-Lincke-Ufer
H-5
Perleberger Strae
D/E-2
Platz der Vereinten Nationen H-3
Platz vor dem Neuen Tor
F-2
Potsdamer Platz
E-4
Potsdamer Strae
E-4/5
Prenzlauer Allee
H-1/2
Prinzenstrae
F-4
Pcklerstrae
H-4
Puschkinallee
I-5
Quedlinburger Strae
B-3
Rathausstrae
G-3
Reichenberger Strae
G-4/I-5
Reichpietschufer
E-4
Reichstagufer
F-3
Reinhardtstrae
F-3
Rosa-Luxemburg-Platz
G-2
Rosa-Luxemburg-Strae G-2/3
Rosenthaler Strae
G-2/3
Rykestrae
H-2
Saarbrcker Strae
G-2
Savignyplatz
C-4
Schibauerdamm
F-3
Schloplatz
F-3
Schlostrae
B-3
Schlterstrae
C-4
Schneberger Strae
F-4
Schneberger Ufer
E-4
Schnhauser Allee
G-1/2

Schnleinstrae
H-5
Schumannstrae
F-3
Seydelstrae
F-4
Simon-Dach-Strae
I-4
Skalitzer Strae
G-4/I-4
Sophienstrae
G-2/3
Spandauer Damm
A/B-3
Spandauer Strae
G-3
Sredzkistrae
H-2
Stralauer Allee
I-4
Stralauer Platz
H-4
Stralauer Strae
G-3
Straburger Strae
G-2
Strae der Pariser Kommune I-3/4
Strae des-17. Juni
C/E-3
Stresemannstrae
F-4
Sdstern
G-5
Tauentzienstrae
D-4
Tieckstrae
F-2
Tiergartenstrae
D/E-4
Torstrae
F/G-2
Tucholsky-Strae
F-3
Turmstrae
C/D-2
Uhlandstrae
C-4/5
Unter den Linden
F-3
Urbanstrae
G/H-5
Veteranenstrae
G-2
Vostrae
F-4
Wadzeckstrae
G/H-3
Waldemarstrae
H-4
Wallstrae
F/G-4
Warschauer Platz
I-4
Warschauer Strae
I-3/4
Wassertorplatz
F-4
Weinbergsweg
G-2
Weinstrae
H-2/3
Werderstrae
F-3
Wiener Strae
H/I-4/5
Wilhelmstrae
F-3/4
Winterfeldtplatz
D-5
Winterfeldtstrae
D/E-5
Wrther Strae
G/H-2
Yorckstrae
E/F-5
Zimmerstrae
F-4
Zinnowitzer Strae
F-2
Zionskirchstrae
G-2
Zossener Strae
F-5

December 2015 - January 2016

59

ENTERTAINMENT HIGHLIGHTS
BB Promotion in cooperation with Diamond Dance Productions
and Indigo Productions presents

BB PROMOTION GMBH IN ASSOCIATION WITH STOMP PRODUCTIONS


AND GLYNIS HENDERSON PRODUCTIONS PRESENTS

15. 20.12.15
Admiralspalast Berlin

26. 31.12.15
Admiralspalast Berlin

www.irish-celtic.de

www.stomp.de

BB Promotion GmbH und Lunchbox Theatrical Productions Ltd. prsentieren

Jetzt
akete
Familienp
sichern!

Kind
2 Erw. & 10
ab 42,0 en)
hr
(zzgl. Geb

01. 12.12.15 Admiralspalast Berlin


Tickets: 030 - 479 974 99
www.bb-promotion.com

(0,14 /Min. aus dem Festnetz,

01805 - 2001 Mobilfunk max. 0,42 /Min.)


www.eintrittskarten.de

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Index
Aapka
24
Adlon Kempinski
31
Admiralspalast
15
Adria
15
Aigner
23
Alexa Centre
30
Alpenstueck
22
Alte Nationalgalerie
28
Alternative Berlin Tours
58
Altes Museum
28
Altes Zollhaus
49
Amar
51
Anita Sikora's Berlin Walks 58
Ankerklause
51
Anna Blume
46
April
35
Aufsturz
25
August Fengler
46
Austria
50
Babylon Mitte
15
Barcomi's Deli
25
Bavarium
35
Bergmann Curry
50
Berlin, Berlin
42
Berlin City Tour
57
Berliner Dom
27
Berlinische Galerie
55
Berlin Locals
58
Berlin Plaza
42
Black Box Cold War
29
Blue Man Group
15
Borchardt
23
Brandenburger Tor
26
Brewer's Berlin
58
Caf am Engelbecken
54
Caf am Neuen See
38
Caf im Literaturhaus
38
Cafe Kalwil
38
Caf Rix
54
Caligari
52
Central Kino
15
Chan
49
Cicciolina
52
CineStar IMAX & Original
15
City Circle Buses
57
City Segway Tours
58
Cocolo
24
Computerspielemuseum
33
Cupcake Berlin
33
Curry 36
50
Daimler Contemporary Berlin
29
Das Edelweiss
53
Das Stue
41
DDR Museum
29
Deutsche Oper Berlin
14, 16
Deutscher Dom
27
Deutsches Currywurst Museum
29
Deutsches Historisches
Museum
29
Deutsches Technikmuseum 55
Diekmann
36
Die Schule
45
Dressler
37
Duke
37
Eastwood Berlin-Mitte
25
Einhorn
37

66 Berlin In Your Pocket

El Dorado
38
Ellington Hotel
42
English Theatre Berlin
16
Eschschloraque Rmschrmp
25
Eventim
14
Facil
23
Fat Tire Bike Tours
58
Fernsehturm
30
First Floor
36
Fischers Fritz
23
Fleischlust
45
Flohmarkt am Mauerpark
47
Francucci's
37
Franzsischer Dom
27
Freischwimmer
54
Frey Wille
11, 30
Friedrichstadt-Palast
16
Fhrerbunker
28
Galander
55
Game Science Center
56
Geburtstagsklub
46
Gedchtniskirche
40
Gedenksttte Berliner Mauer 29
Gemldegalerie
29
Glory Duck
33
Glck To Go
51
Golgatha
53
Gorgonzola Club
52
Grand Hotel Esplanade
42
Green Door
39
Grenander Morning Glory 38
Grner Salon
25
Gudrun Sjdn
11, 31
Gugelhof
45
Hackesche Hfe
15
Halle Tanzbhne
16
Hamburger Bahnhof
29
Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 56
Hebbel am Ufer
16
Hefner
39
Hekticket
14
Hilton
31
Hinterm Horizont
16
Honigmond & Garden Hotels
31
Hoppetosse
51
Hotel de Rome
31
Hugos
36
InBerlin Tours
58
Insider Tours
58
InterContinental
41
Isherwood's Neighbourhood
Tour
58
Jolesch
50
Joseph Roth Diele
22
Jdisches Museum Berlin
56
Junction Bar
55
Kfer Dachgarten
23
Kaffee Burger
26
Kamala
23
Kaufbar
33
Kempinski Bristol
41
Keule
32
Kilkenny Irish Pub
26
Kimchi Princess
49
Kinnaree Thai
50
Knese
35

Koka 36
14
Komische Oper
14
Konnopke's Imbi
45
Konzerthaus Berlin
14
Kookaburra Comedy Club 16
Kuchenkaiser
54
Kulturbrauerei
47
La Forchetta
37
Locanda
37
Luftgarten
53
Lutter & Wegner
24
Macondo
33
Mandala
31
Markthalle IX
56
Marooush
38
Marriott
31
Martin-Gropius-Bau
56
Mauerpark
47
Mein Haus am See
25
Memorial to the Murdered Jews
of Europe
28
MeMu Menschen Museum 29
Metzer Eck
45
Milchbar
55
Monsieur Vuong
23
MS Schiffskontor
58
Museum fr Film und
Fernsehen
29
Museum fr Naturkunde
30
Museumswohnung WBS 70 33
Mutter Hoppe
22
Neues Museum
28
Neue Synagoge
26
Nikolaiviertel
26
Nola's am Weinberg
24
Olympic Stadium
40
Original Berlin Walks
58
Osteria N1
52
Ottenthal
36
Pagode
49
Palace
41
Panorama Caf
23
Panoramapunkt
30
Papagena
14
Paris-Moskau
24
Park Inn Berlin Alexanderplatz
31
Pergamon Museum
28
Pizzeria i Due Forni
46
Potsdamer Platz
26
Precise Myer's
44
Quatsch Comedy Club
18
Que Pasa
53
Reichstag
26
Reingold
25
Reinhard's
24
Renger-Patzsch
35
Restauration 1840
22
Restauration 1900
45
Rice Up
53
Riehmers
50
Ritter Sport ChocoWorld 11, 31
Roses
55
Roter Salon
26
Rotisserie Weingrn
22
Sachiko Sushi
38
Sage Restaurant
51
Sale e Tabacchi
53

Salon Schmck
54
Samowar
38
San Diego Steakhouse
33
Santiago
46
Sarod's
50
Savoy Berlin
41
Schall und Rauch
46
Schaubhne
18
Schloss Charlottenburg
40
Schneewei
32
Schnitzelei
36
Schneberger Weltlaterne 35
Schwarzwaldstuben
22
Shakespeare & Sons
47
Slow Travel Berlin Tours
58
SO36
55
Soda Club
46
Sofitel Berlin Kurfrstendamm
41
Sophieneck
25
Spielbank Berlin
24
Spindler
51
Sputnik
15
Staatsoper im Schillertheater
14
Stasi Museum
33
Stasi Prison
33
Suksan
36
Sushi Circle
24
Sushi Imbiss am Wasserturm
46
Swera
51
Swisstel Berlin
42
Sylter Hof
42
tausche Taschen
47
Tempelhofer Freiheit
56
The Digital Eatery
25
The Harp
40
Tiergarten
41
Tipi am Kanzleramt
16
Topographie des Terrors
56
Traube
24
Trentasei
53
Union Jack
40
Van Loon
52
Vicolo Bergmann
53
Viktoriapark
56
Waldorf Astoria
42
Wall Panorama
30
Week-End Club
26
Weihenstephaner
22
Weinstein
46
Weltrestaurant Markthalle 54
Westin Grand
31
Wild at Heart
55
Wintergarten Varit
16
Wohnzimmer
46
Wrgeengel
55
Yosoy Tapas-Bar
24
Zillemarkt
35
Zille-Stube
22
Zimmermeister Brunzel's
Mietshaus
47
Zum Nussbaum
22
Zur Letzten Instanz
23
Zwiebelfisch
39
Zwlf Apostel
38

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