Auto-Fan, for automatic temperature control

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http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/auto-fan.html

"This circuit was designed to automatically activate a set of three or four small DC fans to cool a large
cool-rib for a 10 Amp powersupply. Can be used in a variety of other applications as well."

Table 1
Part
IC1
Q1
D1
Th1
Re1
R1
R2,R5
R3
R4
R6
R7
P1
C1
C2
Led

Description
LM741 Op-Amp
2N2222A transistor
1N4148 Diode
50K Thermistor
12V Relay
15K, 5% resistor
10K, 5% resistor
150K, 5% resistor
4K7, 5% resistor
1K, 5% resistor
1K8, 5% resistor
100K Trimmer Pot
10uF/25V Capacitor
0.01uF, Capacitor
Red, 3mm

Radio Shack
Digi Key
276-007
LM741CN-ND
276-2009
2N2222A-ND
276-1122
1N4148GICT-ND
KC005T-ND
275-249
Z753-ND

271-1330
271-1321

Newark
LM741CN
2N3904
1N4001
96F3309
83F8057
84N2487
84N2479
84N2485
50N1628
50N6012

Notes
NE741,A741, etc.
See text
1N4001, or others
KC005T in prototype
RS is 1A
brown-green-orange
brown-black-orange
brown-green-yellow
yellow-purple-red
brown-black-red
brown-gray-red
Bourns
Electrolytic
Ceramic
Light Emitting Diode

Replacement Parts:
Q1 = 2N3053, 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, NTE128, ECG128, etc.
D1 = 1N4001, NTE519, ECG519, NTE116 etc.
Th1 = Thermistor, 22K - 100K. Used 50K in prototype.
Re1 = Relay, type 842-1C-C from "Mode Electronics". Order # 50-333-0 ($1.55)
A reed relay will work fine also.
Newark Electronics
Digi-Key
Radio Shack/Tandy

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Auto-Fan, for automatic temperature control

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http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/auto-fan.html

Radio Shack's pittyful selection of parts these days is a real headache.

So I'm no longer gonna waste my time looking for partnumbers. Unless I'm sure
they carry the part. Too bad...

Couple Notes:
Th1, the 50K thermistor, is a standard type. Mine was a bar or rectangular looking thingy. Available from
Tandy/Radio-Shack. Almost any type will do. I experimented with different models from 22K to 100K and all
worked fine after replacing the trimmer pot and a little bit of tuning.
The one used in the above circuit diagram was a 50K model made by Fenwal (#197-503LAG-A01). This 50K
was measured at exactly 25 C and with 10% tolerance. The resistance increases as the surrounding
temperature decreases. Tolerance for my application (cooling a large powersupply coolrib) is 10%. Another
name for this thing is 'NTC'. NTC stands for "Negative Temperature Coefficient" which means when the
surrounding temperature decreases the resistance of this thermistor will increase. You may have to shop
around to get the cheapest price. Some thermistors can be had for as little as $4.00 but as much as $55.00
Canadian currency for the glass encapsulated type (the best).
I replaced my thermistor for a 60K hermetically sealed glass type since the environment for my application
may contain corrosive particles which may affect performance on a future date.
P1 is a regular Bourns trimmer and adjusts a wide range of temperatures for this circuit. I used the 10-turn
type for a bit finer adjustment but the regular type will work for your application.
R1 is a 'security' resistor just in case the trimmer pot P1 is adjusted all the way to '0' ohms. At which time the
thermistor would get the full 12 volt and it will get so hot that it puts blisters on your fingers... :-)
R3 feeds a bit of hysteresis back into the op-amp to eliminate relay 'chatter' when the temperature of the
thermistor reaches its threshold point. Depending on your application and the type you use for Q1 and Re1,
start with 330K or so and adjust its value downwards until your satisfied. The value of 150K shown in the
diagram worked for me. Decreasing the value of R2 means more hysteresis, just don't use more then
necessary. Or temporarily use a trimmer pot and read off the value. 120K worked for me.
Transistor Q1 can be a 2N2222(A), 2N3904, NTE123A, ECG123A, etc. Not critical at all. It acts only as a
switch for the relay so almost any type will work, as long as it can provide the current needed to activate the
relay's coil.
D1, the 1N4148, acts as a spark arrestor when the contacts of the relay open and eliminates false triggering.
For my application the 1N4148 was good enough since the tiny relay I used was only 1 amp. However, you
can use a large variety of diodes here, my next choice would be a regular purpose 1N4001 or something and
should be used if your relay type can handle more then 1 amp.
Circuit digagram, PCB, and Layout are updated with C1, C2, R7, and Led. C1 and C2 are new to eliminate
switching noise from the relay in some applications. The optional Led and resistor have been added to the
circuit board and layot for your convenience. The relay used here and in the KIT is a small 12V/0.5A type. If
the relay rattles increase the feedback resistor R3 to 180K or a little higher, and small ceramic cap over the
coil connections in parallel with diode D1. A 1N4148 diode is specified for a small relay. If you use a larger
relay used a 1N4001 or 1N4004.
If you like to make your own pcb, try the one below. The pcb is fitted with holes for the relay but may not fit
your particular relay. It was designed for a Aromat HB1-DC12V type. The variety and model of relays is just
to great. How to mount it then? Well, I left ample space on the pcb to mount your relay. You can even mount
it up-side-down and connect the wires individually. Use Silicon glue, cyanoacrylate ester (crazy glue), or
double-sided tape to hold the relay in place. Works well. Note that the pcb and layout is not according to the
circuit diagram in regards to the hookup of the fans. The PCB measures approximately 1.5 x 3 inches (4.8 x

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Auto-Fan, for automatic temperature control

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http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/auto-fan.html

7.6mm)
If you print the pcb to an inkjet printer it is probably not to scale. Try to fit a 8-pin ic socket on a printed copy
to make sure it fits the scale before printing to a transparancy sheet and making the pcb...

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Copyright 2003 - Tony van Roon

27/01/2016 19:02