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^!mm??!mmmmmmm??!mmmm??tmm^
THE
.

GARriENT Cutter
.

AUG

Book

of

XO

1895

Diagrams

GOLDSBERRY) & DORAN


Proprietors

-~r*>S*^}

3SS

OGDEN AVENUE
CHICAGO, ILLINOIS.

Agents Wanted.

TiiMitimtiiimmimmmmmm
COPYRIGHT,

1895.

BY GOLDSBBRRY & DORAN,

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use

the

corresponding

scale

with the bust measure to draft the


entire Waist,

which consists of one-

half of Waist, Rolling Collar, Vest,

and Standing Collar, Sleeve and


Skirt Trimming.

This Waist has no seams under

arm nor down

the

up the darts
side

with

the back.

in front, close

and

buttons

holes, take

Take
on the
button

up the shoulder seams,

cut the Rolling Collar double, interline


silk;

with canvas, and face with

sew

to waist, trim with vel-

vet.

Get

diagrams

the

Sleeves

page

on

the

for

Draft by

3.

the bust measure, lay the pleats


to

form a

the

sleeve

box

triple

trimming

and place upon


tack

it

pleat, finish

in place.

this

Use

for the Skirt on

around

all

box

pleat,

the diagrams

page

by the waist measure,

4.

Draft

interline

throughout with grasscloth, face

up the bottom with velvet, place


the

skirt

trimming on each

side

as represented.

The Vest is made


/:'

P-

this

diagram

side pleat

%M

of linen.

Use

for the lining, lay a

down

the center of the

outside.

Finish with a standing collar.

LADIES'

COSTUME Continued.

14 s4

A
1

7%

in-

2V4

*>srH'

5%//

COLLAR

/.

_^|
iV

2%
10>/4

9/4"

ONE HALF OF WAIST.

lG 3/4

25/8

I7

'20%

%U19

LADIES'

COSTUMEContinued
X

^
us

i?
_ s
_
_<

^
cs
h

th
sj

^
i

OS

j|

11%

3^

LADIES' SKIRT.

//

n
NO. 2

en
m
*

*-L

Center of Front Cut Double


*
C9

*^
to

BOY'S BLOUSE WAIST.

Use

the

scale

with

corresponding

the chest measure to draft the entire


waist,

Collar,

which
Cuff

bottom of

consists of

Front, Back,

and Sleeves.

Face the

Blouse and insert

elastic

braid.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

OS

LADIES' BICYCLE COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding with the bust

measure to draft the entire waist and sleeves,


which consists of Front, Back and Collar for
the waist; Front, Back, Revere and Collar
and three Sleeve portions for the jacket. This
sleeve is sometimes called the Ferris Wheel
Sleeve;

it is

suitable for waist or jacket.

Sew

the top in the sleeve plain; gather the bottom

and sew to the curved


above the elbow.

lines

on the sleeve,

skirt, by the
Gather the outside and sew
These can be worn without the

Draft the bloomers, lining and


waist measure.

to the

lining.

kilt skirt,

wear the

but
kilt

it

surely

skirt.

the tape measure.

is

more

lady-like

to

Regulate the length by


01
tan-

M
o

SIM

00

-3

CO

K>|M

001 01

*[co

*|p

LADIES' BICYCLE

COSTUME Continued.

y2

iov2

7V2

32H
32 3/4

33V2
33 %

LADIES' BICYCLE

COSTUME Continued.

20V2

36 H

4V2

v,

13H

B
/s

19*4

y*

30H

-^

39 34

J03(OT3U

ONE HALF OF BLOOMERS

^u

_^HJ?gg?;&i 53H
53^
5434
57

58H
59

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding with the bust measure


consists of Front,

Back'

Side-back and three Sleeve Portions and Collar.

The

to draft the entire Waist,

Cape

is

also drafted

of

half

Collar.

material.

on

which

by bust measure,

Cape, Hood, Cape Facing,

it

consists of one-

Hood Facing and

Line the inside of the Hood with contrasting

Sew

at the neck.

the collar to the cape and button the

Use any

skirt given.

Regulate the length of

skirt

by tape measure.

hood

LADIES' STREET

10

COSTUME Continued.

3lH^f^

6%

5 /*

J 22 3

LADIES' STREET

CJ>

V
L-?^

COSTUME Continued.

11

rf

"<
__>

to

FACING TOR CAPE

^
CO

*-

<I CiCnOs

CO *->t-i

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

12

35 -

Cn

14-

s
sJa.

\\

\-~~~
1

to

ts

SK
1

Use the scale corresponding with the bust


measure, which consists of Front, Back, Sideback, Under-arm-gore, Collar and three Sleeve
Portions.

Gather the sleeve puff


sew to the dotted line on the

at the

lining.

bottom and
The lower

may

be made of velvet.
The Coat is given on pages 14 and 15.
Draft by bust measure: Front, Back, Sideback, three Sleeve Portions and Collar.
part of the sleeve

Take up

the darts as represented. Lay the


pleats in the upper sleeve according to the
notches.
Make a box pleat on the top.
The Skirt is given on page 16. Draft by
waist measure. Trim to suit.

Regulate length by tape measure.

Sll)

^4Qr
3/
7i

'Pa ee

%:, '9

-A.
ea*n

<s

S,

4-

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

13

Gather and Sew to Sleeje


(D>S-

z
p
CO

Shirr between notches

09
oo

09

090909

NNf-

lid

co

oo

CD CO

CO
en

>*>

^3

*|.M

6H

4 3/4

LADIES' STREET

14

&& S
*

COSTUME Continued.

*-

CO

~3

o>

its *s.

CO-J OJ

CJl

CO t9

LADIES' STREET

6 /4

COSTUMEContinued.

15

16

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

MORNING WRAPPER.

Use

the scale corresponding with

bust measure to draft the entire gar-

ment, which consists of Front, Back,


Sailor Collar, Cuff and Sleeve.

The Back and Side-back


together; cut

down

dart before basting,

the

are cut

the center of the


full

the lining at -ji/

waist line, same as a basque,

gather the Sleeve at the top between


the notches.

Trim with ribbon

as represented.

Regulate the length by the tape


measure.

17

18

MORNING WRAPPER Continued.

SAILOR COllLAR
50.L 4

Cut Double

CHILD'S UNDERWAIST.

2/2

Use

the

ponding
8

Ajh
l

sv
y/2

measure
the
in

scale

with

the

to draft by.
J

front

double.

13

bust

Cut
Close

the back with buttons

and button-holes.

12 3/4

corres-

_,.

&A

_,

7*/*

CO CO 0

vj

BOYS' SUIT.

Draft coat and vest by chest measure and draft the pants by hip measure.

Regulate the length by tape measure.

19

CHILD'S

20

COSTUME

^- - i^tfPac-eSeom

#t

Use

the

the bust

corresponding with

scale

measure

the entire

to draft

waist and sleeves.

This gives the blouse

effect.

Lay

pleats in front according to the notches.

The

io-J front

under waist or

and back are for the

lining.

Gather the sleeve puff and sew


the sleeve lining on curved

to

line.

Draft the skirt by the waist measure.

Lay

the pleats according to the

notches, and

sew

to the waist.

Finish

with white braid.

Regulate the length


measure.

by the tape

-r

i j.

CHILD'S

COSTUME Continued.
20

21

Cut Double

1%
*

it!

<
3

10 /4
*
<

17%
20 V*

H
CO

< 27-14

3
29 A

<

36

<
w
H

39

<

6
CD*-

I
1

z r
r
>
3

|oo

dim

7yfc

l{U

Cut| double

'

1
1

H
>-'

Wf-

09

01 01

A|U

3
/*

58%

<]55

li

46V*

<I

-^,

e^

00

a^

/i

- 48'/*

<B
^* *-

<s/

CO

to

BOYS SAILOR
1

22

SUIT.

To

draft

Waist use

corresponding with

scale

the chest measure.


Is in six pieces: Front,

two Sleeve

Back, Vest, Collar and

portions.

The Vest

set

is

in

the

front connecting the

notches.

Face the bottom

of

Waist and

rubber

insert a

cord.

The

pants are drafted

by

the scale correspond-

with the hip measure.

ing

The

waist

band

is

allowed.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

t*

Ml

*Ll_

\\

-&s>

=ft
*
i

S>

z\

t*

Cut Double
CO

I_

St

09
ta

21%

^T%
BOYS' SAILOR SUIT Continued.

23

3%

4%V

io /4

iy-a 26/

8|( (

'

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

24

fcS

00

Use

19
o

the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft


the waist and jacket.

The
24.

waist

is

given on page

It consists of front,

and sleeve.

Close

back, trim with

it

in

back
the

braid, gather

or pleat the sleeve.

The
25.

It

jacket

is

given on page

consists of front, back,

side-back, under-arm-gore, collar

and facing, and

collar lining,

and two sleeve portions.

Join

the collar to the front according


to the stars, notches

and rings.

Gather or pleat the sleeve beNO.

tween notches.

Use any

skirt

5T

COLLAR

given.

Regulate the length by the


tape measure.

Cut Double
CO CO
to 1

ts

I-*

ts

iS

f
j

c*

CHILD'S STREET

COSTUME Continued.

25

4%
6%
7^
05
sz;

If ICO

0)

?
I

<
l*|B

'

15

CO

00

x|co

tO

3
e

LADIES' DRAWERS.

26

Select the scale corresponding with the waist

measure.
It is in

two

one-half

pieces:

One-

drawers and

half of the
of

the

band.

These can be closed or


left

open.

Gather the extra fullness at the top and sew to


the band.

Make

all

allowances for

tucks.

Regulate the length by


the tape

line.

LADIES' DRAWERS.
Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of
one-half of the drawers and band.
Make allowance for tucks. Regulate by the tape measure.

03

l~f

*~

C9

\t-r

Sew

[w

|*r
to

Band

3^

Q
Z
<

o
n
D
73
>

O
Z
m
z
mr
J3 n

CM

EQ

1-

<

(J)

Cut

3|

Double

17i

THE BOTTOMl
**
to

03
C

05

03
03

t8|M

68|i-

e>|>-

*|co

ba

<j

co

03

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding with Bust

measure

to draft the entire waist,

consists of

portions.

Cut the back

Close the front with hooks and

double.

eyes

two Fronts, Back, Collar and

Sleeve

three

which

Gather the upper sleeves between

the notches to

fit

the arm's eye.

Draft the Skirt by the Waist measure


it

consists of

Sew

gore.

two Fronts, Back and Sidethe narrow front and side-

gore together, then sew the upper

front,

side-gore and back in one seam.

This

gives the skirt a stylish appearance.

The

front

and side-gore

of the

may be

same material

Regulate

the

of velvet, or

as the dress.

length

by

the

tape
Ci Ci

measure.

Or

27

LADIES' STREET

28

11

COSTUME Continued.

15 1/*

e 8/4 4 8/4

Cut Double

CO
to

to

00

>
o

>
!

V
~J

>

in.

Seam

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

29

CD

"*

z
p

O
n
m

1}

30

>

Join Back.
00

05

in.

Oi

Seam

CO

C5

z
o

n
o
z
H

0)

CO

CD

If-

-a
r-s

Turn back for Facing

Cut on

this

Line
CD

-J OJ

LADIES' COSTUME.

30

Center of Back Out Double


,

I-*

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with the bust measure to draft


the

Waist and

entire

which

consists

of

Sleeves,

Front,

Back,

Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Collar,

Ruffle for the Sleeve,

and two Sleeve portions.

Basque

perfectly,

the

bottom

Fit the

whale-bone

every seam and down the


Finish

Cape

with

front.

knife

pleating, also finish the top of the

Sleeve with pleating and a cap.

Trim

the

Cape with

vet bands.
in this issue.

braid or vel-

Use any Skirt given

Trim

to suit.

Draft Underwaist by bust measure.

09

t- 1

Q^s.

GO

LADIES'

COSTUME Continued.

31
31/2

LADIES' UNDERWAIST.

Qiy &i.

%\

IWDER
WAIST BACK

6%

10 /a
l

13%

V7h
18H

23/4

32

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft


the waist and sleeves,

which

Back, Side-

consists of Front,

back, Under-arm-gore, two re-

vere

portions, vest

and

front

three sleeve portions.

This

is

a short pointed bas-

que; draft the same as

all

other

The revere or large


may be made separately;,

garments.
collar

interline with canvas, finish the

edge with guimp or

jet trim-

The bottom of the basque may be finished with a soft


ming.

velvet or silk, finish the

roll of

back with a butterfly bow.

The
in

may

sleeves

be pleated

various ways, or gathered;

one of the prettiest ways

is

to

lay side pleats, meeting in the

center or at point of shoulder.

Another
on

pleat

is

make

to

deep side

with

top

pleats on each

box

Always

side.

line the puff part

with crinoline,

or fibre

chamois, the

tarletan
latter is

the most durable, as

the coat sleeve will not crush

The

skirt is drafted

it.

by the

waist

measure;

Front,

Back Breadth and Side-

gore.

Line the back with hair-

cloth

and make a double box

pleat
effect

down
is

it

consists

the center.

very

of

The

and more

prett}'

durable than the Godet pleats,

may be gathered

or

it

in

deep knife

pleats,

or pleated

meeting at

the center.

Regulate the length by the


tape measure.

LADIES' STREET COSTUMES. Continued.

33

34

LADIES' STREET COSTUME. Continued.

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

35

BOYS' SACK SHIRT.

36

Use

the scale correspond-

ing with the Chest measure


to draft the entire

which

consists

garment,

of

Back, Sleeve, Cuff,

Front,
Collar

and Shirt Front.

Make up same as any other


garment.

Interline the shirt

front with white

canvas to

retain stiffness.

Regulate

the

length" by

the tape measure.

^20 x4

3 l/s

10

1U

4ff

30 H

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding


with the bust measure to draft the
waist and wrap. It consists of
five pieces:
Front, back, underarm gore, collar and coat skirt.
The sleeves are given on page
It may be trimmed with fur
38.
or five or six rows of braid at the
bottom of the skirt and also at
the waist. Close in front with

37

Ti

1^1
1

r
r
>

,L

TJ

|CS|M

3J

i^l

>

p-

large hooks and eyes.


The waist is given on page 38.
Four pieces: Front, back, underarm-gore and side-back.
This
gives the pointed effect front and
back. Use any sleeves.

The cape

is

given on page 39.

Is in six pieces, four pieces

for
the yoke and collar combined,
one-half of the cape and ruffle.
Line the collar with canvas.
Put together as indicated, just
as it is in the book.
Line the
ruffle with silk.
Sew the cape,
ruffle and collar (or yoke) together.
It may also be trimmed
with braid.

The skirt is given on page 40.


Draft by waist measure.
Regulate the length with tape
measure
#>
05 OI
tf

*|M

fP

>
rf^jM

co

<I
*|M

CO
CO

[S3

tototo

CO

Cntf^os

*>|M

to

*|M

(00

l-i I-"

Cn

rf*.

t-<

CD
t^l

38

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME. Continued.
3]

'\

'I

1*

f
/

3f

(JNDERJ8
"
g

ARM
GORE

m \\
1

<s

i|
I

&

Waist Line

7f

''

No.LH

'/
-Jioi

26 ?

LADIES' STREET

is

M te
o

m
<z>

s.

M
es

Ml-*
<t

Hi
40

^^

M
IC
*?

-J Ci

COSTUME Continued.

Vx

crj

39

40

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES' SEAMLESS COSTUME.

41

2g-

Use

14

the scale corresponding with the

Bust measure to draft the Waist, Collar


and Sleeve.
This

truly a novelty, there being but

is

one seam

and one

Do

in the waist,

in

one

in

the sleeve,

the skirt.

not attempt to cut this waist for a

be done successThe velvet may be omitted on the

stout form, as
fully.

waist

if

it

can't

The chiffon
neck and down the

desirable.

around the
would be very becoming.
If

out,

the waist

make

it

is

too small

ruffle

front
141/a

when

drafted

larger in front, not in the

back.

The

Skirt

is

given on

page 42;

is

drafted by the Waist measure.

Cut on the

straight

of

the

goods

in

front.

Regulate the length

to suit.

11V2

23V4

LADIES' SEAMLESS

42

IN

-*

r-CO
CO <# 10

CO

CT>

G>

COSTUME Continued.

03

CO

05

iH

LADIES' DUSTING CAP.


Use

scale 32 to draft this by.

Can be made

of

any material.

00

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME.

43

eoto

- lC

3ln

Back

W I

OO

Use

scale corresponding with

the

Sz
m-J^n
.Space

Seam

to

draft the

entire

3GT

k|U

IP-

Bust

waist,

_3Q

portions.

03

il^

Do

not attempt to cut this for a Bust less

Draft the

35 inches.
other garments.

same

as

all

The under-arm-gores

are

than

marked where they

are to join.

Gather the

sleeve between the notches.

The

skirt is given

on page 45.

Draft by

There are three pieces


Trim with
Front, Back and Side-Gore.

the waist measure.

folds of the goods, or any other

flat

trim-

fluffy

trimmings are not becoming

to stout forms.

Regulate the length by the

ming, as

tape measure.

//

*>IC0

which
consists of Front, Back, Side-Back, two
Under-arm-gores, Collar and two Sleeve-

measure

5|.

t
BSCn

AS

*Th

*.[u

44

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME.

-Continued.

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME Continued.

45

Cut Double

W
>
f

00

w
w
w
!>

SO 00

v,

Inch Scam

Join Side Gore

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

46

%/n

K0.4S

[>$?

Use the

corresponding with

scale

Bust measure to draft the entire


Basque, which consists of Front, Back,
Side-back, Collar, Coat (or Basque)
Skirt and two Sleeve portions.
Fit
fronts

the waist

hook down the


ful

waves sew

finished

all

to

After lining the

make

it

sleeve

grace-

in

fall

to the waist.

around with

The upper

the

Button or

left.

side.

skirt with silk to

Lap

perfectly.

from right

It

may

be

stitching.

is

laid

in

pleats according to the notches.

box

The

notches represent the pleats, and the


stars the

The

under side of the

pleat.

given on page 48.


Waist measure. Is in
two pieces Gored Front and Bell
Back. Gather the center of the back
from the notch. Regulate the length
by the tape measure.
skirt

Draft by the

is

/i

Sp.

Space Seam

SIDE BACK

Seam

^
C6

LADIES' STEEET
11

COSTUME Continued.

47

48

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES'

HOUSE

DRESS.

49

Ascertain the bust measure and use the corresponding scale


to draft the Basque.
It consists of

seven pieces, as follows:

Front, Back, Side

Back, Under-arm Gore, Collar and two Sleeve portions.


This Basque
effect is different.

is

drafted out the

same

as

any other, but the

to

This gives a very narrow back and rounding


COILAE.No.7

side back.

i*r

Cut the

front darts

the lines given.

The

open

in

the center of dart and baste on

(See diagram.)

front of the

Basque may be trimmed with embroidery

or braiding to correspond with drapery

The

skirt

and drapery

is

drafted

if

desired.

by the

scale corresponding

with the waist measure; lay pleats according to the notches.

Regulate the length by tape measure.

an
w

09

LADIES'

50

te
9

>-

14 14

HOUSE DRESS Continued.

**
00

00
cs

\^

os so

.MM

CO

i^

<JO

left Side

A"

^
M
c
a
H

to
fc-

4
H
w

A'*
K,
rf-^

*\

s<
*r
ce<
i*\

B iglitSide_

*>

LADIES'
CO

HOUSE DRESS Continued.

51

Centre of Back

g<
.>T

*e

es

Cn.

M
H
>
H
^

<

*.
IS

frl"*

lOf

06 >

*4

W
k
o
M

P
0

to
M

<
*>l
i!<

PlCC
*T-<]

^'
*1H

14 -

hI

46^

46V*
16 V* 80

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

52

M O
8 34

Use the

scale corresponding

with the Bust


and Waist. The
Jacket consists of Front, Back, Side-Back, Underarm-Gore, Rolling Collar and three Sleeve porThis gives the full skirt effect.
tions.
Gather
the upper sleeve all round with very large stitches.
Join the notch on top to the shoulder seam.
The waist consists of Front and Back Yoke,
and gathered portion for front and back.
Close
Finish the
on the shoulder and under the arm.
bottom with a soft belt fastened under the arm.
Use any sleeve given.
The Skirt is drafted by the Waist measure;
is in four pieces, Front, Back and two Side-gores;
one may be omitted if desirable.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.

measure

to draft the entire Jacket

IS
00^

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME. Continued

54

LADIES' STEEET

COSTUME.Continued.

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

co it

55

M
CO

H-

*!>-'

*l

00

*>y

*lco

lu

Use the scale corresponding


with the Bust measure to draft
the entire Jacket and Waist. The
Jacket consists of Front, Back,
Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Rolling Collar and two Sleeve portions.
This gives the full Skirt.
Make as long as desirable. May
be made of any suitable material;
face the Front and turn back.
The full Waist is given on page
56,

it

consists of

Gather the top

may

be

Front and Back.

to

fit

made

the neck. It
a lining.

over
Gather the bottom and

finish

1*

en

with

QO

CO

a soft belt.
The Skirt

is given on page 57
Draft by the
Waist measure. Is in two pieces, Front and Back.
Gather the center of Back from the notch.
A very pretty finish for the bottom of Skirts is
made by cutting bias velvet 1^ inches wide and
making a heavy cord by twisting candle-wick

loosely, covering

it

with the velvet.

Sew

it

CO(Cn

co|o>

3^4

"0

-+
It!
ILO

CO

on the
^|H

<

05

M C0lM

r" tip

ICO

3>

bottom and face the under side of the Skirt.


Regulate the length of the Skirt by the tape
measure.

CO

CO

CO

3J

ll

1*
CO

CO
-

col 1

LADIES' STREET

56

(JND^R
ARiyi

GORE
Waist Line

No. 4 P

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES' STREET

COSTUMEContinued.

57

Cut Double

CO

>
o

11

t>
!

2 in.

Seam

to"

2
p

Cut Double

^
"*.

LADIES'

58

Use

the

corresponding

scale

with the bust measure to draft


the entire waist, which consists of

Front, Back,

Side-Back,

and two sleeve portions.


gives

the

Princess

the front double.

on the

left

arm.

two

The
This

Close invisibly

the

made

skirt

by
is

Cut

effect.

bottom
of Moire silk.

ruffles

Draft

This

shoulder and under the

Finish

sleeves are

Collar

with

The

of the same.

given on page 59.


the waist measure.
is

the

Bell

Front with a

back breadth. Trim the


bottom with a band of the Moire
silk.
Regulate the length by the
straight

tape measure.

HOUSE GOWN.

LADIES'

&s

If*

If*

CO

01

HOUSE GOWN. Continued.

01

CO

CO

05

59

03

Center of Back Cut Double

M
M

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH


No. 15
Si

2 ta._?ejini_

l/
i-

CO CO

->

MIS8ES'

60

STREET COSTUME.

Use the scale corresponding with


the Bust measure to draft the Jacket
The Jacket
and Surplice Waist.
consists of Front, Back, Side-back,
two Sleeves and three Collar portions.
Lay two pleats in the back,
join the notches and stars in putting
the collar together, line with canvas.

The Waist
three pieces:
lar.

given on page 62
Front, Back and Col-

is

The back

is

to

be worn under

Gather the fronts

at the
the back, lap the
fronts and tie in the back.
The skirt is drafted by the Waist

the skirt.

shoulder to

fit

measure. Trim to suit.


Regulate the length to

suit.

2V4

S A

^N 1%

$%/l

2y8

//
a.

4%

/f

6%

7%

^ 3^^

^tr

'

MISSES'

STREET COSTUME Continued.

to

h*

61

MISSES'

62

STREET COSTUME Continued.

oolci

""a

o!

2*

22i(V^

MISSES' COSTUME.

Use

63

the scale corresponding with

Bust measure

the

draft

to

entire

Upper and

Waist, which consists of

Under Fronts, Upper and Under


Backs, Side-back and Under-armgore,Bretelle, Sleeve Ruffle and

Gather the upper

Sleeve portions.
front and

back and

ruffle

double

with the

about four or six inches

The

wide.

join in

Finish the bottom

under-arm-gore.
with a

two

sleeve

one

this

is

ruffle

is

cut

3 "-4

the under one

cut the upper one shorter.

The

Skirt

is

given on page 64.

Trim

Draft by waist measure.

to

suit.

Regulate the length by the tape


measure.
c<

7s

"Vs&<

In

^^*jari

-"
1

XtX

***"*-

i\
1

M
1

t*

\^^
H
to

00

#>
v?
JS^

64

MISSES'

COSTUME Continued.

"-^kt^^BSS

ONE HALF OF FRONT

No. A 6

5*4

UH

3 /*
Ll

S
to

Cut Double

to

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

No.

A6

cc

Va In. Seam
05 CO
to to

.
Hi

CHILD'S APRON.

Use

the scale corresponding with the

measure.

bust

Is

in

four

pieces

front,

at

the

back, side piece and band.

back

and

shoulders;

sew

in the

around.

Any

style

Join

used.

side

front,

of

and face

trimming

all

may be

Regulate the length by the tape

measure.

BAND

iv;

piece

NO. 4

65

BOYS' STREET COSTUME.

66

4*4

Jl%

6V44

Use

the

scale

corresponding

with the bust measure to

draft

Under

the Coat, Vest, Front and

Waist.

The

coat

Sleeve

This

portions.

and the

drafted

put

five

Front, Back, Collar and

pieces:

two

of

consists

together

parts

different

same

the

is

as

all

consists

of

other garments.

The under
one piece.

waist

Sew up

back

the

seam, lap the fronts across each


other and close with buttons and
button holes.

The
Close

vest consists of one piece.


in

front with buttons and

button holes.

The
scale

skirt

is

drafted

corresponding

waist measure.

Lay

by the

with

the

the pleats

according to the notches, press


carefully and

sew

to

the

under

waist.

Regulate

the

length

use of the tape measure.

by

the

COSTUME Continued.

BOYS' STREET

67

13 ^

la'/Af

j4 Space

t*i-

Seam

VEST FRONT
No. A 9

COLLA

t to

99

l-k

H>

uo

a
C

E9

e+
<S

!4

1^

^
H
S3
H*d

fcH

era

A^-

ts

00

tf

A
MA

A A
tf*
I-*

8
-S

99

A
A
GO
CO

era

99

A A
u>

tc

CS

A A
rs
t

to

A A

h*

l-i

99

JR

A Aj
O

^w

A
99

Ms

ft
S5

LADIES' NIGHT GOWN.

68

Use
ment.
a

the scale corresponding with the bust

It is in

four pieces

Mother Hubbard

issue.

front

and plain back.

<

C5K

fi

Use any

COLLAE

15*
15Vs

1 5^414

Collar.

plain sleeve

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

/H

to draft the entire gar-

Front and Front Yoke, Back and

8% "

measure

This

is

given in this

LADIES' YOKE.
Use

scale corresponding with the bust measure.

Is in

two

pieces:

69

Front and Back.

10%

51/2

8I-/-J-

'

Sew

Shirring on This Line

INFANTS'

70

^n

JlJU'I

MOTHER HUBBARD

drafting this

garment use the

DRESS.

scale corresponding with the bust measure.

Is in four pieces:

This

is

Front and Back Yoke, one-half of Skirt and Sleeve.

drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Gather the Skirt and sew

to the

Yoke;

cut alike.

Make

all

allowances for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

the Front and

Back

of the Skirt are

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use

the scale correspond-

ing with the bust measure to


draft the entire waist,

which

consists of front, back, side-

back, collar and two sleeve


portions.

This

a plain,

is

round basque;

it

straight,

may be

cut

pointed or rounding, just to


suit.

The back seam may

be

open

if

left

to the waist line

desirable.

The
the

skirt

waist

is

drafted by

Lay

measure.

the pleats according to the

notches
press

in

the

the back
pleats,

do

Trim the bottom with


ing or braid.
length to

suit.

not

however.
stitch-

Regulate the

71

LADIES'

72

COSTUME.Continued.

Z
o

Cut Double
05

(51

t-

&&g

'H<"<

"

LADIES' PRINCESS

Use

the scale corresponding with

GOWN

73

the

Bust measure to draft the entire garment,

which consists of Upper and Under Fronts

and Shirring

for Front, Back, Side-back,

two Cuff portions, Sleeve Puff and two


Sleeve portions for the lining.

The Back

gives the pointed train effect.

Place the waist line on the straight of the


goods.

Shirr the portions given for that

purpose and join in the under-arm dart.

Fasten at the waist and just over the bust


with jeweled embroidery,

also

deep sleeve cuffs with the same.

trim the
Finish

the inside of the cuff with fancy buttons.

Gather the puff

at the top

fasten to the lining.

with a band and

let

and bottom and

Finish the bottom

the cuffs

come over

it.

Fit the cuff very closely at the wrist.

This sleeve

is

suitable for almost

any

garment except an outside wrap.


Regulate the length by the tape measure.

i5f

74

LADIES' PKINCESS

GOWN Continued.

491

LADIES' PRINCESS

Cut Double

GOWN. Continued.

75

CHILD'S DRAWERS.

76

Use

scale corresponding with waist measure.

Waist Band.

No

allowance

is

made

Is in

two pieces; one-half

of

Drawers and one-half

of

for the tucks.

Ct

Oi

WAIST BAND

21
3

//
ji)/4

/8_A

15*

2J*

llfc

ONE HALF OP CHILD'S DRAWERS


1

N0.5N

%\
s\\

It
1

V\\

NOJo N
*

\\
i

14
|

^*
4
\\
22

\^

S/

^/gVg
tv

H,l/4
"

"^

6"~
*
i

*V4

LADIES'
For

a lady of

medium

size use scale 32.

16^4
18
19

H
H

SUN BONNET.

This

is

across the top are to represent stitching or cording.

drafted as

all

Interline the

other garments.

The

dotted lines

same with two or more thicknesses;

gather the back part and join to the front, connecting the notches, shirr the back part, insert a tape and

draw back

to suit the

wearer.

Any

style of

trimming may be used.

This can be cut longer or shorter

to suit.

20V4

5
2o /8

LL

21

LADIES' PRINCESS GOWN.

77

Use the scale corresponding with the bust


measure to draft the entire garment, which
consists of Right,
Left and Under, Right
Front, Back, Side-Back, Collar and two Sleeve
This is drafted the same as all other
portions.
garments. Lay the pleats in the back accordGather the right front at the shoulder to fit under front. Lay two pleats on line
ing to the notches, forming two double box pleats.
beginning at 19% on base-line, fasten on left side with a hook and loop. Lay two upward turning pleats on right side. Trim to suit.
The Skirt is given on page 79. Draft by the waist measure. Any other full skirt may be used. Make the over dress and skirt the

same

length.

00

*-gp_ace

Seam

00

~~\

T71l-k

4-J

t^

L IS

1^

78

LADIES' PRINCESS

GOWN Continued.

isj^y^

LADIES' PRINCESS

GOWN Continued.

79

LADIES' COSTUME.

80

Use

the

corresponding with

scale

the bust measure to draft the entire

waist and

sleeves,

which

consist

of

Front, Back, Side-Back, Under-armgore, Collar, Bretelle and three Sleeve


portions.

This basque gives the point-

ed effect both back and

Whale-

the parts together as usual.

Line the bretelle

bone every seam.


with

soft

and sew
both

silk.

and

front

balloon sleeve

The Front
page

81.

Gather

waist,

to

all

around the

of the skirt

by the waist measure.

point

Gather

back.

The two

around

all

forming

is

given on

82.

Trim

the

top.

Side-gores

Back are given on page

and

Draft

to suit.

Regulate the length by the


measure.

Put

front.

tape

LADIES'

r/a Va

COSTUME Continued.

81

LADIES'

82

>*

1*"

>.i

^ ^

COSTUME Continued.

H*

MISSES' COSTUME.

83

MISSES' COSTUME.

84

s %r^

Use

the scale corresponding with the bust measure

and sleeves, which consist of


two Fronts, two Backs, Collar and three Sleeve portions.
Cut the front double and close in the back.
Gather the upper portions at the shoulders and waist
line.
The upper portions and skirt may be made
Gather the
separate and worn with various waists.
puff for the sleeve, and sew on the dotted line, or
higher up if a deeper cuff is desired. The Skirt is
given on page 85.
Draft by the waist measure.
Regulate the length by the tape measure.
to draft the entire waist

4"/4

ll 3/4ll 10

10 3/4l0

18

NO.

9C
J

COLLAR

MISSES'

COSTUME Continued.

n
SLEEVE

5J

LINING

10

13|

1^
18
19'i

83

Shirr and sew to waist

ONE QUARTER OF SKIRT

N0.8L

33

42

85

CHILD'S COSTUME.

86

9V8 8/4

1
,1/

X*y

2%

Use

the scale corresponding

8/

1H

with the bust measure to draft


waist and

the entire

The gimp

Front, Back,

sleeves.

10

pieces,

six

in

is

'4

gathered

9V

H
I

Yoke

S/

and

Sleeve

three

Gather the
and sew

the

Make

con-

Front and Back. Finish


with a deep

top
it

narrow

ruffle.

center of

at

Front and Back.

The
87.

skirt is

given on page

Draft by the waist meas-

ure.

waist.

Gather

Trim

Shirr on These Lines

13
S
14 /4

at top

and sew

to suit.

17V4

10 v*

1
18 /*

3Vs

elastic.

The Over Dress Waist


sists of

J_

around

Shirr at waist

line.

and insert

all

waist at neck

to the

and dotted
line

yoke

13^
S/4

portions.

to

8 4 /^
j

L
Shirr on These Lines

_ 13
14

CHILD'S

COSTUME. Continued.
5

87

20 V.

'

ft

M
ft

o
ft
ft

ft

H
ft

20 Vg

r
47 fe

13J/3

,4%^

(.5*4

MISSES'

88

Use the
sponding

with

measure

bust

the

to draft the entire

which

garment,

of Front and

under

corre

scale

consists

Back

for the

and

Front

waist,

and Back for the overGather the upper

dress.

portion

the

neck.

gathered
if

the top to

at

may

It

the

same

lace in the

Drape

holes.

loops

it

up

make

shoulder,
full.

fit

be

neck

bertha, put

lace

it

armto the

very-

ribbon belt with

and

long

ends

finishes the waist.

Trim

with

ribbon

the

Skirt

bows
any

and

light

CO CO

at the waist also

desired. Finish the

with

bands.

Use

weight material.

Regulate the length by


the tape measure.

&i 7W

EVENING GOWN.

LADIES' COSTUME.

89

cs

a?

-^^l

I-*

^^~-~

"*>v

S/

Space Seam__.

In*
/I

OS

11 h*

I-*

//

^
-fA

G0>
GO

o
P 9 \
#\
\
\

as
H

ST

?
3

*\

a
*

\
1

tf

2s*

fto

*
1

to to
ce os

Use the scale corresponding


with the bust measure to draft
the entire Waist, which consists
of Front and Back, two Sleeve
portions, Puff and Ruffle for the
top of sleeve. This is a blouse
Waist, may be worn under the
skirt or over, just to suit.

The

front

is

gathered at the
the back, gather

shoulder to fit
the back at the neck. Gather or
pleat at the waist between the
notches, finish with a soft belt,
close invisibly.
Gather the Puff
and sew to the dotted line on the
Line the Ruffle
sleeve portions.
with silk and sew in with the
sleeve.
The seamless Waist is
given for the lining.
The Skirt is given on page 91.
Draft by the Waist measure. Is
in three pieces, Front, Back and
Gather the Back at
Side-ffore.
the top.
Trim the bottom with
folds or any trimming desirable.
Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

to

l-l

l-k

cs

J?

H*

oo

C5

>

LADIES'

90

COSTUME Continued.
13 a

G%

7V4-6

LADIES'

COSTUME Continued.

ONE HALF
BACK BREADTH

91

BOYS' SUIT.

92

Use

the scale corresponding

breast

with the
draft

measure

The

Waist and Jacket.

Jacket

is

to

in five pieces, Front,

Back, Collar and two Sleeve

The Waist is

portions.
pieces,

two

in

Front and Back.

Use

any sleeve given

The

skirt is drafted

waist measure.

Lay

by the

the side

pleats according to the notches.

Regulate the length to

fin
00^

*; *
15^

suit.

7V2

17 1/2
SCO

11/4

tc\

fin

fin

fin

00 cs

to

*
QD

#>
M

n-

CO
v

*"

CO

to

iST

IS
fin

173/4

63/4

LADIES'

LONG WRAP.

93

s?=S\

50 8
51 1/*
51V*

Use

the scale correspond-

ing with the Bust measure


to draft the entire

garment,

which consists of Front,


Back, Side-back, Collar and

two Sleeve portions. The


back may remain open from
the line below the waist
line,

or lapped over.

but do not tack down.


side

pleats

Press

Lay

on the top

of

the sleeve according to the


notches.

Regulate the length by


the tape measure.

94

LADIES'

LONG

WEAR Continued.

**

1-1

Or

to

"^

\C0

l^^

*$

CD

S&

.$

35

to

to

00

OS

to

QD-KIC5

)->

to

MISSES' STREET COSTUME.

Use

the

corresponding with

scale

the Bust measure to draft the

Back
for

Front

which consists of

waist,

of

and

Yoke, and gathered portions

Front and Back, Collar, Ruffle and

two Sleeve

portions.

Gather the lower

sew

portion for the waist and

The

yoke.
silk

Close

ruffle

and sewed

down

The

may be
in

the

Skirt

fit

Trim

lined with

same seam

is

the arm's eye.

given on page 97.

three pieces, Front,

gore.

to the

the front invisibly. Gather

the sleeves to

in

entire

Gather the top

Back and
to

fit

Is

Side-

the waist.

to suit.

Regulate the
measure.

length

by the tape

95

96

MISSES'

STREET COSTUME Continued.

2l

^ /^^^ //
\\ \ \

BACK*

YOKE
0)

\
A\
x

3
O

No. 13

fi

\\

\.

\
"~-^

MISSES' STREET

COSTUME Continued
Cut Double

CO

97

;>

ONE HALF OF BACK BREADTH

'

A6

Ms

V2 In. Seam

v.

No.
a>

'

l
V
Itto IS

MISSES' PRINCESS DRESS.

98

Use

the scale corresponding with

the bust measure to draft the entire

garment, which consists of Shirring


for

Front and

the

Front,

lining,

Back, Rolling Collar, Sleeve Ruffle

and two

same
the

as

Sleeve

other garments.

all

and

Turn down

fasten

Close on the

left

Lay

and eyes.

ruffle

the top and

for

to

the side front


front.

side with

hooks

the sleeve.

sew

Dine

to notches.

in

Gather

with the sleeve.

Regulate the length of the


dress

by

the

pleats in the center

back according

the

and on the

shirred

the

to

Shirr

sew

marked;

dotted lines

of

neck

front at the

lining.

Draft

portions.

the tape measure.

entire

MISSES' PRINCESS

DRESS Continued.

99

12 /s

141/2

ft

1/2

V*

SHn6

VA
2 3/4

3V2

SHIRRING

FOR FRONT.
Shirr on thi s Line _

11

Shirr on this Line

12

14V4

e
s

Q
s

S*5

^nLi

37
J

37V4

CHILD'S WRAP.

100

Use the

scale correspond-

ing with the bust measure

garment,

to draft the entire

which
Back,

consists

of

Front,

Cape, two
Sleeves and Skirt. Gather
Collar,

or pleat the
the

waist

skirt

trim

and sew to
the

cape

with fur or braid.

Regulate

the

length

by

the tape measure.

V/z
cs
a

19
a

no

&
64

H
QD

Hen

Kj

o
K
B

MISSES'

Use the

scale

WKAPPER.

101

corres-

ponding with the Bust


measure to draft the entire garment, which consists of upper and under
Fronts, upper and under
Backs, Side-back and three

port io n s. This
wrapper is suitable for a
Miss or a Lady.
Cut the
upper portions out at the
Sleeve

neck.

diagrams.)

(See

Gather and sew to the under front and back. If desirable the Front may be
shirred at the Waist line,
same as the Back. Gather
the upper Sleeve and sew
to the lining.

Regulate the length of


the

Skirt

by

the

tape

measure.

52yt

52 3

102

MISSES' .^WRAPPER Continued.

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

Use the

corresponding

scale

the bust measure to draft

with
the

103

entire

sists of

garment, which con-

two yoke

portions, collar,

Lay box

and two

skirt portions.

pleats in

back and front according


and sew

to the notches,

Trim

yoke.

the

to the

pleats

with

braiding.

Regulate
skirt

the

length

of

the

by the tape measure.

No. 4 K

29|
30
10

104

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME. Continued.

6&r*=^--/*
1

a /.

J_l%__

X/

V*

MISSES' COSTUME.

Use

the

scale

corresponding with the bust measure

to draft the entire waist


fronts,

of

any

two backs, and

and sleeves, which consists of two

ruffle

suitable material.

any other decoration.

for over the shoulder.

Make

Finish with briar stitching or

Use any

sleeves given.

Draft the skirt by the waist measure.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

Trim

to suit.

MISSES'

COSTUME Continued.

105
10 y,

20

a
u

O
-

M
3

3
on

45%
20

44

47 x/4
48

BOYS' SACK COAT.

106

to
.<

to
*

^
BOYS' SUIT.
Use

the scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft

The Coat

the Coat and Waist.


consists of Front,

Back, Collar

and two Sleeve portions;


is

a double-breasted

The Waist
107;

is

in

is

five

this

Sack Coat.

given on page
pieces:

Front,

Back, Sleeves, Belt and Cuff.

Lay

the pleats according to the

notches.

Draft the Kilt Skirt by the


waist measure.

Lay

the pleats

according to the notches.

Regulate the length by the


tape measure.

to
h*

*- H*
GO 00

I-*

I-*

t-^

SB QC

M to IO I-

M ^4
>P
**
0-

N-

IP

BOYS' PLEATED WAIST


10i_9|8|

6i

AND KILT

SKIRT.
9

5i

107
5j i\

3J

9j8j 7i

20

Cut Double

A- l /*
1

<8V4
3

io /*

<17
20 V*

M
DO

27V4

fa

29

/*

fa

<
w
fa
sz;

39%

o
*
14

46V*
3
/

3
48 A

V8

So

3
55 A

58V*

12

13%

20

62V4

LADIES' CAPES.

108

Use

the scale cor-

responding with the


bust measure to draft

The

both garments.

one, No.

first

14,

cape;

circular

is

garment with
or any suitable

line the
silk

The

material.

ond one, No.


consists of

sec16,

four

pieces: Front, Back,

Sleeve and Collar.


Join the
parts

different

they

as

-marked,

are

connecting

the stars and rings


lay the pleats in the

sleeve

according to

notches;

the

press

carefully but do not

down.
Make
any suitable ma-

tack
of

terial.

Regulate the

length to

suit.

CO

^M

bS

S/

CO/

CC

o!
0!
r

01

^X

r
>

//!

CO

-0?

CD^,

-3
If

/V\

4/

LADIES' COSTUME.

Use

the scale corresponding with the Bust

measure
sists

to draft the entire

of Front,

basque, which con-

Back, Side-back, Under-arm-

gore and three Sleeve portions.

This

is

ply a plain pointed waist, front and back.


sleeve

sewed

The
if

is

pleated in a double box

in

the

effect is

desired.

shoulder seam

very pretty.

The

skirt

is

It

pleat

sim-

The
and

and arms-eye.

may be draped

given on page in.

The
one down the

Draft by waist measure.

front

three box pleats,

center and one

on each side.
line.

is

laid in

Interline the front with crino-

Gather the back two or three times very

coarsely and

sew

to band.

Regulate length by tape measure.

109

LADIES'

110

COSTUME Continued.
*a *~ *0

s?

CO
to

JO
^

to
o

10
n*

tf

so

H-otocoeooo-j c>wi>cococo
j >sf nj"

^r" *?? -? -i*


O0 OS^OO^CO^
1

CO* 00

5% 4Va

19 Yk

/*^

':

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES'

Ill

Box Pleat

-*
Or
OS

G) Ox

?x
CO

1t5

^aA^2^
CO
CO

CD 3

toll-

LADIES' COSTUME.

112

CO

r~

j\
i

uY$

Its

BACK COLLAR

N0.8!R.

&

in
is I
IB

\_r^

Use

the scale corresponding with

the bust measure to draft the entire

Waist, which consists of Seamless

Waist, Revere, Ruffle for bottom of


Waist, Back

Collar

and Standing

Collar, Ruffle for top of Sleeve, and

three Sleeve portions.


ferent parts together

Put the
in

dif-

the usual

way.

The

Skirt

is

given on page 114.

Draft by the waist measure;


sists of

Lay

it

con-

the Skirt and Pleated Panel.

three side pleats in the panel:

cut the skirt open on one or both


sides

and insert the panel.

Regulate the length by the tape


measure.

IB 1

fb.

LADIES'
11

COSTUME Continued.

113

IX

n|%
1L__

'

^^

'

"

//

"*/

jn

T~

5V4

II

il

12

i-r

'

SLEEYE

^7 2V
//

1
/

N0.8A iili

|/|
a

*/

sl

L%_ _

10

\\

\\

\\
\

\\
\\
\\
\\
\\

3VVk

\\
\\

\\

A 16"

18

LADIES'

114

/rrcocoeoco co co

#*
SO

COSTUME Continued.

CO
QC

to
CO

*
00

*+
e*

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

115

Use the

scale corresponding with the bust


to draft the entire waist and sleeves,

fc3

CD|M

measure
which consist of Front, Back, Side-Back,
05
Rolling Collar
Vest,
and Underwaist. 05
I
MilThis may be made up in a Jacket just for
the street, or a Bodice for the house and street.
Sew the
vest in the under-arm dart and shoulder seam, close down
the front invisibly with hooks and eyes.
If this is intended
for a street Jacket, make the waist from the diagram given
on page 116; there being only the under-arm-seams, cut
the back double.
Be very careful where you lengthen the
waist lines.
To lengthen the back, lower the two bottom
figures, 27 and 27^; and to lengthen the front, lengthen
on the top line, 12^, and the third cross line, 17, making
the same changes on these cross lines you have made on the
two bottom lines. The Skirt is also given on page 116.
Draft by the waist measure.
Gather the front. Lay two
If"

pleats in the back.

Trim

t-S

if*

1-1

00 <3

If*

|M

to suit.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.


tasa
*l^

I-"

116

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES' STREET

^^

#>
Ol

<

(>

'

WJJ

"

03
<

'

W
a

_^M

/*

09

^M

BOYS' COSTUME.

117

8/.

^i

Bpac_Scoro_

Va-IiifhScam_

to
CO

<s\

to
IS

Use

the scale corresponding with the chest

measure
sists of

to draft the

entire waist,

two Fronts, two Backs,

which con-

Belt, Cuff

and

Sleeve.

This

back

is

a Russian Blouse.

at the

neck and waist

front; fasten

belt of the

The

down

Gather the upper


also the left

line,

the right side;

same material

make

the

as the trimming.

pants are drafted by the hip measure.


Va

Make

the leg as wide as desirable;

bottoms and insert a rubber cord.


the length to

hem

the

Regulate

suit.

UPPER BACK
N0.9D

14
Waist line

NO

BELT

o
B
C
o

33%
rv*'

34

BOYS'

118

18 V

COSTUME Continued.

/4

r_1,c "

18fj

21^2 4;-

6^4,

3^3

18/8

cuifp
i_J

'

>

1%
is

8
/4

-U8 8/4
J 19"/8

BOYS' SUIT.

119

BO^S' SUIT Continued.

120

CHILD'S APRONS.

Use

corresponding with the

scale

bust measure.
It is

in

two

Front and Tie.


for the

ties, if

Regulate

pieces:

One-half

of

Ribbon can be used


preferred.

the

length by

the

tape

measure.

OS
'")

A
to

to

APRONTIE

N0.2C

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

121

100
J.

lOO

o'r

*f

!!

L_

tor

-J

i._4.J

l
t*

IS ta

or>

j*j

stow is >

IlVa

Use

the scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire gar-

ment, which consists of Front, Back,

Side-back and Collar.

This Front may

be made up plain or pleated.

made

If

plain, draft the pattern out just as

it

JaSE

is

Lay

here.
pin

them

plain

in

front;

on the paper,
place, which will give a
lay the pattern on the

the

4 5 ,i 5 l/8 8'42 S4

l
/

I7

pleats

and cut it out. But if the pleated


garment is wanted, do not lay the pleats
cloth

in the pattern

but in the cloth.

The

it

No. I>1

8% Li-

diagrams for the Cape are given on


page 122. Draft by the bust measure;
consists of one-half of Cape, Collar

9%

and Sleeve Pad. Baste up the shoulder seam, gather in the extra fullness,

27Va

gather the sleeve pad and sew in the


top

of

length to

the

sleeve.

Regulate

the

suit.

11

UL

,1%

122

LADIES' CAPE.

GENTLEMEN'S

123

SUIT.

61/2

100/2
103,14

CO,

Id

GENTLEMEN'S

SUIT.

2%

To

27 3A

Coat, use the scale corre-

draft the

sponding with the chest measure taken

moderately tight over the Vest.

Coat

Front and Skirt, Back,

of

consists

The

Side-Back, Collar and two Sleeves portions.

Sew

the Skirt to

the front and

side-back.

The Vest

is

given on page 125.

scale corresponding with chest

Use

measure

taken moderately tight under the Vest,

which

is

in

pieces, Front

two

The Pants

given

are

and Back

on page

125.

Draft by scale corresponding with hip

measure.

Regulate the length by the

tape measure.

The Overcoat
Use the

scale

is

given on page 126.

corresponding with the

chest measure taken over the Coat and

Vest.

It consists

of Front,

and two Sleeve portions.

Back, Collar

101/*

.11/2

124

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT Continued.

117/1

to

NO..E13,

WAIST

BAWD

A_
tsS

12ljz

GENTLEMEN'S SUIT Continued.

125

51/s

37/8

191/8
193/4

05

I-1

03

_M

CD

If

OS

42.

iS^

S^a
-<w5p

CD

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.

3 3,4

OVERCOAT
BACK
63/4

iye
\\

11

evs

16i/a

lVs

23

No. E 13

303/4

6V4

23/4

OVERCOAT

OVERCOAT
2 *T COLLAR
CO

,P

SLEEVE.

ls-

No. E

13.

85/8

20i4
201/2
(5

211/2.

(0

-3

r3

03

*L>'

CO

CO

>

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

127

t5|M

M
O
Ulh-

Use the

00

<I

CO

DO

t|M

niei

10 |co

iWh

tOlM

scale corresponding with the


to draft the Waist and

Bust measure

The Jacket

is given
on page
two pieces: Front and Back.
The Waist is given on page 128, is in

Jacket.
127. It

is in

Two Upper Fronts, Under


Front, Back, Side-Back and Under- Arm-

six pieces:

Gore.

The Right Front is gathered at the


bottom between the notches, close on the
left side

The

with buttons or hooks.


cuff is given on page

cuIff
No. |D 1

127, the.

Sleeve, Collar and Skirt on page 129.


Draft the Skirt by the waist measure,
take up the darts (or gather across the
front), just to suit the wearer, lay the
pleats in
the back according to the
notches, cut on the straight of the goods
in front.
Regulate the length by the
tape measure.

l.

o o

en

128

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

129

7%

26/8

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME.

130

Use

scale corresponding with the bust

measure

Up.

to draft the

which consists of seven pieces: Front, Back, SideBack, Collar, Pocket Lap and two Sleeve portions.
This is drafted the same as all others, but should not be used
for a form smaller than a 36 bust.
Lay the pleats in the back
according to the notches. The under-arm seams may remain
open from the first line below the waist line down to the bottom.

polonaise,

Make the polonaise as long as the dress skirt.


Any style of trimming may be used to relieve

4%

<

do not button it all the way up to the neck,


but turn it back at the neck and face with velvet to form lapels;
fit the lining to the neck, however, and fill in lace or soft silk.
The diagrams for the skirt are given on page 132; it consists
of three pieces: Front, Side-Gore and one-half of Back breadth.
Use the scale corresponding with the waist measure. Any style

may

be used.

Front

the plainness

in front; for instance,

of trimming

AS

GO

H <
K
M
o fc
o
p*

Regulate the length by the tape

measure.
V/t

17%

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME Continued.

60

1*

19

COM

CS

K* HI
so

>*

-S?

->-

In.

Seam

No.

AS

y2

Cut Double

tt

ttOD>]

131

*t

eetsts
-5 -C

NJ

STOUT LADIES' COSTUME Continued.

132

Cut Double
pi

.
!2!

>

00

lis

w
w
H
PS

I* J

SO 00

v.a

IncItSeam'

Join Side Gore

->

GENTLEMEN'S DOUBLE BREASTED SACK COAT.


Draft by the scale corresponding
with the Breast measure, taken over
the vest.

It

consists of five pieces,

Front, Back, Collar and two Sleeve

Draft

portions.

the

same

other garments.

Regulate the length to

X0.10JR.

suit.

COLLAR

4^

to

or*

27 84

as

all

133

STOUT LADIES' PRINCESS DRESS.

134

42%
43%
Use

the scale corresponding with

the Bust measure to draft the entire

which consists of Front,


Back, Side-back, two Under-armgores, Collar and two sleeve portions.
garment,

Draft the same as

Lay

all

other garments.

the pleats in the back, join the

under-arm gores according to the


stars.
The ruffle over the shoulders
may be carried to a sharp point in
the back same as the front, or it may
be straight across the back, or may
be sewed in with the sleeve. Close
in front

with hooks and eyes.

Any

trimming may be used.


Regulate the length by the tape

style of

measure.
DO
I-"
tfJ>-<

(-"

CO
It

1-

STOUT LADIES' PRINCESS Continued.

135

iT
Join Side-Muck

S|?
j

OS OS
00

os

UNDER ARM
GORE
..
if\

os

tf

CHILD'S STREET COSTUME.

136

Use the

scale corresponding

with the bust measure to draft


the entire Waist and Sleeves,

which
Back,
the

two Fronts,

consists of

Side-Back, Ruffle

neck,

Gather

Cuff and

the

for

Sleeves.

upper front be-

tween the notches and baste


the under

front;

close

back; the cape or

remain open

back

in

to

in the

ruffle

may

the front and

also; line with thin silk or

simply

hem

with braid.

the edges and trim

The

skirt

is

drafted

by the waist measure; cut the


front double

down
Trim

to avoid a

seam

the center of the front.

with

Regulate the

braid

or

length

velvet.

by the
05

tape measure.

lt>|

|m

M |w

en

co

to

CHILD'S STREET

COSTUME Continued.

137
7%

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

138

Use the

scale corresponding with the

bust measure to draft the entire waist,

which consists of two Fronts and Full


Front piece, Back, three Cape portions

The upper

and three Sleeve portions.


front

is

turned back on the dotted

a revere, gather the

full front

FULL

FRONT

line for

portion and

fasten to the under front; cut the capes


as represented, allowing

them

to

come

to

No.
the dotted line on the upper front; line

with thin
suit.

to

silk

Do

hang

or simply hem, and trim to

not use any

in

stiff lining,

graceful waves.

puff for the sleeve and

Use any

10FX5

skirt given.

sew

Trim

they are

Gather the
to the sleeve.
to suit.

17*
17|

LADIES' STREET

COSTUME Continued.

139.

2i

af

8|

ONE-HALF OF
CAPE
5
7<8

Bi

No.

P
7i

8*
9i
9|

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

140

Use

the

scale

corresponding with

the Bust measure to draft

the entire

garment, which consists of two Fronts

and Back, for the waist; Front, Back,


Collar and two Ruffles, for the Jacket;

and two pieces for the Skirt.


The Waist is given on page 140.
The one with a hem marked down the
front

is

The one
is

the under, or
that

the upper

is

lining

" cut double "

marked

portion.

portion.

Close on the

shoulder and under the

arm, gather

the extra fullness at the bottom of the


waist.

The Jacket is

Make

it

suit.

The

given on page 141.

as long as the waist.

Trim

to

Skirt portions are given on

page 142. Draft by Bust measure.


Take up the darts. The corsage may
be shaped to suit the wearer. Use any
full sleeve given, and shirr in the middle.
Regulate the length to suit.

LADIES' STREET

2!

4
6

UNDER

hi

7k

RUFFLE
9i

No. 7 P
12|

15^

18

24

COSTUMEContinued.

141

LADIES' STREET

142

OS

.&|m

-1
~|w

*
M
O

tii-

CO
#>

*i^

COSTUME Continued.

to tow

LADIES' RIDING HABIT.

Use

the scale corresponding with the

bust measure

to

the

draft

Waist and

Sleeves, which consist of Front,

Side-Back,

Under-arm-gore,

Sleeve portions.
as

all

This

other garments.

chine stitching. Close

in

is

made

Back,

and

two

the

same

Finish with mafront with buttons

and buttonholes.

The
145.

Skirt

is

given on pages 144 and

Draft by the waist measure.

up the darts

as represented, join the

Take
seams

according to stars and notches.

Regulate
measure.

the

length

by

the

tape

143

LADIES' KIDING

144

C3 05
If- 03

&

Ol
CD

CJ>

<3l

05

*>

-q

HABIT Continued.

*>

if-

to
CO

-J
oo

Ol

cow to

LADIES' RIDING

HABIT Continued.

145

YOUNG

146

MISSES' DRESS.
CO

Use

the scale corre-

sponding with the bust


measure to draft the entire waist and sleeves,

which

consists

of

two

trimming
for the bottom of" the
waist, two sleeve portions and puff for the
fronts, back,

sleeve.

Lay

the pleats

on the upper front according to the notches,


and sew to the under
front.

The

skirt

simply a straight piece


of goods laid in double box pleats.
the length by the tape measure.

Regulate

kQ

to

YOUNG

MISSES'

DRESS Continued.

147

nto

INFANTS' DRESS.
10 Va

FRONT

/
/
1

Use
for

Xo.E3

5
O

'a
/H

scale corresponding with bust

measure

Front and Yoke, pleated Back and Sleeve.

three on each side.

>a

1
/

8JJ7JZ,

to draft the entire

Lay six

Press and stitch once or twice

gather the Sleeve at the top and bottom.

garment, which consists of Shirring

pleats in the back, turning

at waist.

toward center of back,

Gather the front and sew

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

to the

yoke;

LADIES' COSTUME.

148

Use

the scale corresponding with

measure

bust

draft

to

the

entire

Waist and Sleeves, which consist of


Front.

Back, Rolling

Collar and

three Sleeve portions.

This

is

fronts lap across each other

the

in

shoulder to

fit

Skirt

measure.

is

piece;

all

tie

gather the

the back.
drafted by the waist

Is in three pieces:

Back and Side-Gore.


top

and

Bring the skirt up

back.

over the back

The

The

a Serpentine Waist.

Front,

Gather the

around, but bring most of the

fullness in the center of the

taking

very large

back.

Trim with

stitches

back,
in

the

braid or velvet.

Regulate the length

to suit.

LADIES'

COSTUME Continued.

149

22|A

COIoi

*?

CO
B9]H

31

K>|M

*|H

*"

150

LADIES'

COSTUMEContinued.

00

<|

en

|_1

OS

|u

LADIES' STREET COSTUME.

151

Draft the Waist, Jacket and Sleeves

by the

scale

corresponding with the

The

Bust measure.
pieces,

waist

Any

waist.

in

Gather

Front and Back.

neck and

is

two

at the

other waist

may

be used.
If

the Jacket

take loose

is

made

measure.

of

heavy

cloth,

consists

It

of

Back, Side-back, Under-arm-

Front,

gore, two Sleeve portions and Collar.

This gives the new flaring


skirt.

This

effect in the

may be made

of

any

suit-

able material.

The

Skirt

05

is

given on

Draft by Waist measure;


desired,
of back.

if

page 153.
pleats are

make allowance in the center


Trim to suit. Regulate the

length by the tape measure.

rf>|COlM

.--

"'.;

LADIES' STREET

152

COSTUME Continued.

afc\

ARiyi

9i

25f

sif^je.

Bi

19

LADIES' STKEET

COSTUME Continued

153

CO

to

l^

to

GO

Cn

^ CO

154

LADIES' KITCHEN APRON.

Use

scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in six pieces:

Belt,

Front, Back, Shoulder Strap,

Pocket and Strap.

The

binding should be held tight, to prevent

enlarging the neck.

in.

seams allowed.

Regulate the length by the tape

line.

50 ^e

LADIES' COSTUME.

24|

Draft

the

Waist

and

Sleeves by the scale corre-

sponding

with

Bust

the

measure.

This

is

a Russian Blouse.

Gather the neck

The

collar.

to

waist

fit

the
also

is

gathered.

Close

the

on the

left

side.

Hem

Use any

skirt.

front

the

bottom.

the

length to

style of

used.

Regulate

Any

suit.

trimming

may be

155

156

LADIES'

COSTUME Continued.

LADIES'

LADIES'

MOUMNING COSTUME.
Use

the

scale

corresponding with

the bust measure


waist,

which

to draft the entire

two Fronts,

consists of

Back, Side-back, Under-arm-gore, Collar


is

and four

drafted the

same

as

all

ments.

Face the

rolling

crape.

Use any

skirt

up the

bottom with

dresses are always


front

other garcollar

given.

with

Face

These

crape.

made very

and back, touching the

around.

This

Sleeve portions.

long,

floor all

Regulate the length with. the

tape measure.

MOURNING COSTUME.

157

LADIES'

158

MOURNING DRESSContinued.
CO

_
1/2

In.

Seam

Collarj No.

'flo

05

1
i

<2

llj

|Beam.

^'|""l/2lnol1

^*

^*"""""""'''''

'

0)

V""
!

'

~-~~~S.

00

Im

\\L OS

r
n
n
<
n

[*/

yj/

110

*^~~-k

.fe-

J-S2.

ic-

to
09

CD

01

(^

>.

LADIES'

HOUSE DRESS.

159

13%

15

"^-

//

-\

_r*"

SHERING FOR BACK

\
\

\W

,7,
l/n

NO. 3

\|\

XV
\\S\
\

\4

<
\

Wy*

Sew

to belt

8/ 3
9

10

l'

/4

10% 10
v-

l/

SHERING FOR FRONT


N0.3G
Draft the waist and sleeves by

B
o

the scale corresponding with the

bust measure.

It

consists of

yoke

and shirring for front and back,


T

collar

and

two sleeve

13 /4
portions.

Gather the shirring portions

at the

to the belt.

This

made

open

take the

to

in front

ij space hem.

top and sew to the yoke.

may be made

and sew

Jb-

12%

hem

Gather the sleeves

to

off the

open

in the

back

Sew

to belt

9*/4

9'/ 2

Gather the bottom between the notches


for a miss, or in front for a lady.

back and cut the goods double, and allow the hem

at the top

If

it is

in front

between the notches.

Draft the Bell skirt with the waist measure; lay the pleats according to the notches; trim the bottom to
suit.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

HOUSE DRESSContinued.

LADIES'

160

*
CO

ri^

-<

$>

'

J
.

"

03

SO

i^

"

'

09
05

_w
to

'

05

^M
~

51/2

iQyezi
//

61/4+-."-

J^ ^___-A
\ \j)/4

"

BOYS' COSTUME.

161
10374

2
I

Center Of Front

63/i

1
lll/2

161^

1/2

Box

Pleat.

KILT
SKIRT.
Box

21

<

241/4

x /*

29

1/4"

-3.4

Pleat

37^4

V*

42
Fox

Pleat.

No. E

12.

Box

Use

4.68/4
!50'i/4

193/4;

-iev*

"

Pleat

S5
593/4
631/4

the scale corresponding

with the chest measure to draft

68

the Waist and Sleeves, which


consists of Front, Back, Collar,

Cuff, Belt and Sleeve.


pleats

73

76 1/4

the

on the waist according

to the notches; stitch

the machine.

by

Lay

Box'Pleat

8II/4

them on

86

Draft the skirt

Box

Pleat

the waist measure; lay the

891/4

pleats according to the notches;

94
press but do

not tack

Regulate the length

down.

95iA.
19 3/4

to suit.

6Va

971/4.

101/2^%--

3
/i

113/8

111/2

Li_*
6=/8 S5443/4.

2^2

1/44

GENTLEMEN'S DRESSING GOWN.

162

Use

correspond-

scale

ing with the chest measure.

Is

in

eight pieces:

Front, Back, Collar, two

Pocket

Laps

Sleeve portions.

and

two

Is draft-

ed upon the general plan.

Regulate the length by


the use of the tape measure.

M
\

UNDERGARMENT.

CHILD'S COMBINATION

Use

scale corresponding with the bust measure.

Is in

three pieces: Front,

Is

Back and

Sleeve.

drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Follow the arrows

No

allowance

is

closely.

made

for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape measure.

/8\<S?yS^'11_

18

163

164

CHILD'S

uyA u~-

COMBINATION Continued.

GENTLEMEN'S NIGHT SHIRT.

Use

165

the scale corresponding with the chest measure.

Is in five

pieces

Front, Back, Collar, Pocket and one-

half of Sleeve.

We

deem

different parts, as

together.

unnecessary to give a description of the

it

any seamstress

The seams

The

front

The

Sleeve and

is

are

all

cut open

will

know how

to put

them

marked.

down

to the

notch at 15 on base

line.

Cuff are cut together.

Gather the

Sleeve at the top.

Regulate the length with the tape

line.

2%

1*4

COLLAR
8

2 /Jr

l /8

8\

166

GENTLEMEN'S NIGHT SHIRT Continued.

2%

LADIES' COMBINATION

UNDERGARMENT.

Use

scale corresponding with bust measure.

Is in

three pieces: Front,

Is

Back and

Sleeve.

drafted out upon the general plan of work.

Follow the arrows

No

allowance

is

closely.

made

for the tucks.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape


measure.

22^

28 /a

16T

BOYS' SUIT.

168
Use

scale corresponding with the chest measure.

Is in

two Sleeve

Knee
Is

Front, Back, Collar, Belt and

nine pieces:

portions, and the

two portions

for the

Pants, and Waist Band.

drafted on the general plan of work.

Each

plait is

marked on the

Follow the arrows

draft.

closely.

THE PANTS
Are

drafted by the

scale corresponding with the

hip measure.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape


measure.

S^8

6V

2/4
8/g
1/3

ll Va

iv8

s'

>v^-- 6-i *st ki sfc -

Vi8 7% 5^,4

!>8

46/8

S%2V8

1
'.

BOYS' SUIT Continued.

169

LL
V*S

MEN'S OVERALLS, WITH APRON.

170

Use
Is in

scale corresponding with waist measure.

two

pieces:

One-half of Overalls and Strap.

Regulate the length by the use of the tape

line.

4 A

!/}

2 i

29*/4

-'47 V4

BOYS' OVERCOAT.

Use
Is

171

scale corresponding with bust measure.

in

seven pieces: Front, Back, Collar, two

Pocket Laps and two Sleeve


Is drafted

portions.

upon the general plan

of the

work.

Regulate the length by the tape measure.

32

172

BOYS'

OVERCOAT Continued.

4%^

2*4

es

t->

1V4

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT.

Use
chest

scale

corresponding with the

Take

measure.

over the coat moderately

the

measure

tight.

Take

sleeve measure from center of back to

knuckle

joint.

Deduct the seams.

This consists of

five pieces: Front,

Back, Collar and two Sleeve portions.

The seams

are

Regulate the
measure.

all

^-inch seams.

length by the

tape

173

174

CO CO

GENTLEMEN'S OVERCOAT Continued.

0<Z>00-<1
*>

cb

OS
18

CO

I* t

NT"


GENTLEMEN'S OVERALLS.
Take
the

175

the measure directly over the hip to ascertain

number

of scale to use.

.It

l'/4

consists of five pieces:

Front, Back, Fly, Strap and Band.

Regulate the length

Z.

'*\

4%\

by the tape measure.

r-

H-

*]

\\

FRONT
12
e

Mf

20 V4

'

39^

6%
<

8^4

*^rN 98
*-*

rV8

s
4k

to

2%V

Tj

CS
i

\\|

WAISTBAND N0.9B

>H

\\

'8

5/

BOYS' SHIRT WAIST

176

AND KNEE

PANTS.
3V4

8Vsi

^^!::__X2!4

/4

3
3V4

y FEOKT
6 vJ.

]____

5%

//
7
/

hi
hi

No. C 11

/
/

11%

J'

/
/
'

u%

^fUh

16

4V4

a
1=1

S5
H]

< n
w H
H tf

6V2

No.C 11
4V4

BOYS' SHIRT WAIST.


Use the
measure

scale corresponding with the

chest

which consists
Front, Back, Waist Band, Cuff

to draft the entire waist,

of five pieces:

and Sleeve.
Gather the waist at the bottom and sew to
the band; gather the sleeves at the bottom and
sew to the cuff; gather at the top between
notches and sew in arms eye.

The

pants

are

drafted

by the

sponding with the hip measure;


Front, Back and Waistband.
Regulate the length to suit.

to ts
ce te

is in

scale correthree pieces,

h*

-1 'i

Of

CO

a^ 0^

-T H

Voick

of

K-

Fashion

A Magazine published for the especial benefit of those who use

THE DIAMOND G GARMENT GUTTER,


And
It

others interested in keeping well

embraces

all

and instructions

up

in

the latest styles, with drafts


in

the

latest styles.

showing how to cut

making up the same.

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1 .50 PER YEAR.

SINGLE COPY, 40 CENTS.

PAID IN ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED BY

GOLDSBERRY

Sc

DORAN,

385 ogden avenue,

Chicago,

III.

-THE

Voicb

of

Fashion

A Magazine published for the especial benefit of those who use

THE DIAMOND G GARMENT GUTTER,


And
It

others interested in keeping well up

embraces

all

and instructions

in

the

latest styles.

the latest styles, with drafts showing


in

how

to cut

making up the same.

SUBSCRIPTION PRICE, $1.50 PER YEAR.

SINGLE COPY, 40 CENTS.

PAID IN ADVANCE.

PUBLISHED BY

GOLDSBERRY

Sc

DORAN,

385 ogden avenue,

Chicago,

III.

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