International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 2011, 33, 289297

doi: 10.1111/j.1468-2494.2011.00647.x

Review Article

Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne

treatment
M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith
School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand

Received 9 September 2010, Accepted 31 January 2011

Keywords: acne, acne treatment, herbal cosmetics, herbs, topical applications

Synopsis
Acne vulgaris suppresses an individuals self-confidence by causing
distress with regard to physical appearance, which affects a significant number of individuals during puberty and is delineated by
adolescence. Several treatments have been introduced to decrease
the aesthetic and psychological problems caused by acne. The topical application of therapeutic agents has been found to be more
feasible than hormonal treatment and laser therapy. The ingredients in topical acne treatments, particularly herbs and naturally
derived compounds, have received considerable interest as they
have fewer adverse effects than synthetic agents.
sume

Re
Lacne vulgaire touche a` lassurance dun individu en causant une
detresse face a` son apparence physique. Elle affecte un nombre
important dindividus pendant la puberte et est associee a` ladolescence. Plusieurs traitements ont ete proposes pour diminuer les
proble`mes esthetiques et psychologiques causes par lacne. Lapplication topique dagents therapeutiques a ete estimee plus aisee
quun traitement hormonal et une therapie laser. Les ingredients
des traitements topiques de lacne, particulie`rement les plantes et
les composes naturels derives ont suscite un interet considerable
par leurs moindres effets indesirables que les ingredients synthetiques.
Introduction
Acne is a skin disorder that suppresses an individuals self-esteem
with regard to physical appearance and has a clinical onset during
puberty and adolescence [1]. A high incidence of acne is found in
girls aged 1417 and in boys aged 1619 [2]. The pathogenesis of
acne is regulated by sebum hypersecretion in deformed follicles,
which leads to microcomedones, and the follicular hyperproliferation of microcomedones causes inflammation [3], and comedones
[4] in both open and closed types (black and white comedones)
appearing in papules, pustules, nodules and cysts [5]. The resulting
skin condition with sebum enrichment is prone to the anaerobic
growth of Propionibacterium acnes, which is the main causative
Correspondence: Nattaya Lourith, School of Cosmetic Science, Mae Fah
Luang University, Chiang Rai 57100, Thailand. Tel.: +66 53 916834;
fax: +66 53 916831; e-mail: nattayal@mfu.ac.th

microorganism in acne. In addition, Staphylococcus epidermidis and

Pitryosporum ovale are present in acne lesions [6]. Proliferation of
these microorganisms, mainly P. acnes, leads to inflammatory
lesions and severe acne.
Therefore, acne formation needs to be addressed, particularly
acne vulgaris. In addition to adolescent acne, drugs are a relatively
common cause of eruptions resembling acne. Drug-induced acne or
acneiform dermatoses that can have a sudden onset e.g. within
1 day of drug administration can be resolved after the drug is
stopped. Acneiform dermatoses have an unusual lesion distribution,
such as inflammatory papules and pustules that are small and
uniform in size (monomorphic), and can lead to secondary comedones of which the earliest histological event is spongiosis followed by
lymphocytic and neutrophilic infiltrates, respectively [7]. Those
drugs capable of producing eruptions have been summarized elsewhere [8]. Therefore, although the initial causes are different, the
pathogenesis of acne vulgaris can be similar. Thus, some treatments are used for both adolescent and drug-induced acne. In this
review, the therapeutic ingredients in topical applications relevant
to the pathogenesis of acne vulgaris lesions were evaluated, as topical application is more feasible [9], especially with the naturally
derived compounds already in use and candidate compounds.
Sebaceous glands in acne formation
Acne is pronounced in puberty and adolescence [10] and is positively related to sebaceous gland function, particularly in teenage
boys [11], which androgenically stimulates higher sebum secretion
[12]. The secreted sebum normally contains a mixture of lipids,
squalene, wax and cholesterol both in free and in ester forms and
triglycerides that naturally provide a skin barrier function [13].
However, the resulting abnormalities in sebaceous glands because
of hormonal effects alter sebum composition and linoleic acid
content is notably decreased [14]. Thus, the skin barrier is
impaired and colonization of normal flora is promoted.
Propionibacterium acnes in acne formation
Abnormalities in sebaceous gland function, particularly watersoluble lipids mainly facial triglycerides in sebum, are inflammatory-enhancing factors that promote the metabolism of the normal
flora, such as P. acne. P. acne has a mitogenic effect towards T cells
[15] by means of heat-shock proteins (HSPs) [16], contributes to
toll-like receptors (TLRs) [17] and activates CD4+ expressed in

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M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment

keratinocytes and sebocytes and neutrophil function [18]. Colonization of this anaerobe consequently produces cytokines and other
proinflammatory compounds including interleukins (IL), tumour
necrosis factors (TNF), interferon (IFN) gamma and granulocyte
macrophage colony-stimulating factor (GM-CSF) [5, 19]. In
addition to follicular keratinocytes, IL induction leads to microcomedone formation, and the bacterium activates TLRs inducing
the attraction of lymphocytes, neutrophils and macrophages.
Abnormal keratinization and deficiency of linoleic acid in the
follicle also promote the growth of P. acne [20], which in turn stimulates the production of proinflammatory cytokines/chemokines in
sebocytes [21] and provokes chronic inflammatory lesions [22].
Reactive oxygen species in acne formation
Reactive oxygen species (ROS) are subsequently generated from the
hypercolonization of P. acnes [5, 23] in addition to metabolism in
living organisms and from UV exposure. Although ROS perform a
useful function in the skin barrier against acne microbes [24, 25],
excess formation affects skin condition by activating neutrophil
infiltration. ROS including singlet oxygen, superoxide anion, hydroxyl radical, hydrogen peroxide, lipid peroxide and nitric oxide (NO)
play an important role in inflammatory acne as well as in tissue
injury. ROS stimulate the formation of nuclear factor jB (NF-jB)
[26], promote TNF formation [27] and consequently activate T
lymphocytes and keratinocytes. The cytokines IL, TNF, IFN, lipopolysaccharide (LPS), transforming growth factor (TGF) and prostaglandin (PG) are then produced and released [2832].
In summary, skin inflammation is initiated by CD4+ in T lymphocytes, regulated by TLRs following neutrophil infiltration which
generates ROS, and protease enzymes leading to follicular wall
rupture of sebaceous glands. This consequently changes the composition of sebum, particularly linoleic acid. Hyperkeratinization is
initiated as well as a reduction in desquamation. Subsequently, the
proinflammatory cytokines, NF-jB, IL, TNF, IFN, LPS, TGF, PG and
GM-CSF are released causing microcomedones. The resulting microcomedones further develop into comedones and inflammatory
lesions.
The topical agents used in the treatment of acne have been summarized, particularly the naturally derived compounds as they are
believed to be safer than the synthetic compounds [33]. In addition, P. acne resistance to some antibiotics used in the treatment of
acne has been observed [34, 35].
Active ingredients for topical acne treatment
Retinoic acid and derivatives
Keratolytic agents such as cis-retinoic acid, retinol and retinol
ester are commonly used to normalize keratinization as they have
a suppressive effect on sebaceous gland function [9, 36, 37].
These vitamin A derivatives suppress TLRs expression and inhibit
IL and IFN production. Cell migration of CD4+ and CD8+ T lymphocytes and macrophage is inhibited [38, 39]. Tretinoin or
trans-retinoic acid is also used as a comedolytic agent. It normalizes follicular epithelium desquamation by unplugging the follicle.
The growth of P. acnes is reduced consequently. However, topical
application of anti-inflammatory retinoids [40] leads to irritation,
which is dose responsive [41]. Therefore, appropriate vehicles
should be used to diminish this effect in addition to structural
modification. Adapalene, a retinoid-like activity agent, with
comedolytic and anti-inflammatory effects was synthesized. It has

been formulated mainly in a gel and cream that found more

effective than tretinoin [42]. Another retinoid-like activity agent,
tazarotene, which is rapidly converted to its active form, tazarotenic acid, has been introduced. However, it had a greater effect
on non-inflammatory than on inflammatory lesions, which was
dose dependent [43] as reviewed [44] with the other retinoid
derivatives such as motretinide, retinoyl b-glucuronide and
retinaldehyde. Unfortunately, there is no comparative study with
tretinoin.
Benzoyl peroxide
The application of benzoyl peroxide, an anti-microbial agent with
high affinity that inhibits P. acnes and S. aureus [36], was incorporated into various formulations, mainly gels [45]. Benzoyl peroxide
improves inflammatory and non-inflammatory lesions [46] by generating ROS in the sebaceous follicle-inhibiting microorganisms
[24, 25] with a reduction in free fatty acids triggering the formation of microcomedones [47]. However, its irritancy limits its application [48]. Combination products were, therefore, formulated to
overcome this drawback with an additional benefit on the synergistic effect when in combination with adapalene [49].
A comparative study between the combination of erythromycin
and benzoyl peroxide and the combination of erythromycin and
tretinoin was conducted. The former combination significantly
improved the treatment of acne vulgaris [50].
Salicylic acid
Salicylic acid, a mild keratolytic and anti-inflammatory agent [51]
that inhibits PG synthesis, was used to remove follicular clog [36]
in various formulations, particularly an alcoholic solution for
cleansing. This formulation posed better efficacy than benzoyl peroxide [52]. Salicylic acid is a milder agent compared with retinoids.
A combination of salicylic acid, and benzoyl peroxide would
increase treatment efficacy as their mechanisms are differ [45]. In
addition to being a cleansing product, skin peeling using salicylic
acid was found to significantly reduce comedones [53].
Azelaic acid
Naturally occurring azelaic acids possess comedolytic activity [54],
anti-bacterial properties against P. acnes [55] including the normalization of keratinization [56] and anti-inflammatory effects on neutrophil function [57] as well as skin-lightening properties [58]. In
addition to a single treatment with azelaic acid, combination treatments with other anti-acne agents, particularly benzoyl peroxide,
enhanced efficacy [59]. Furthermore, azelaic acid is safer with less
irritation and phototoxic response [60]. In addition, P. acne resistance to azelaic acid has not been reported [56].
Vitamin B
Similar to vitamin A that is extensively used in acne, vitamin B3
or nicotinamide is useful as it inhibits IL-8 production in keratinocytes through NF-jB induced by P. acnes during the early phase of
inflammation [61]. Consequently, melanosomes transferring to
keratinocytes are reduced [62]. In addition, nicotinamide was
believed to suppress leucocyte peroxidase that damaged skin barrier
function including enhancing sebum synthesis and consequently
reducing transepidermal water loss. Therefore, it was regarded as
the newest vitamin for inflammatory lesion treatment.

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M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment

Vitamin C

Herbs for acne treatment

Ascorbic acid or vitamin C, the most well known anti-oxidant, poses

anti-inflammatory properties that are appraisal in the treatment of
acne [63]. It scavenges the generated radicals terminating inflammation accordingly. However, it is unstable in a free form. Therefore, structural modification, for example sodium ascorbyl phosphate
achieving stability, was carried out. This more stable derivative was
used to treat the inflammatory lesions in addition to retinol. The
combination treatment significantly reduced the lesions [9].
Serum zinc level was found to be low in patients with acne [64].
Treatment with zinc was therefore shown to improve inflammatory
acne [65].
In addition, oral and topical antibiotics have been used in the
treatment of acne. This article will briefly discuss only macrolides
and tetracyclines, which are the main antibiotics used for acne, as
informative reviews have been presented [34, 6668].

The use of natural remedies is a highly approached in human

health [78], in particular cosmetics with an ongoing search for
novel biologically active botanical agents [79]. Traditional therapeutics, for instance ayurvedic formulations [80], which are sometimes classified as complementary and alternative medicine (CAM),
have been used in acne treatment. Therefore, plants that are
currently used and those with a high potential are summarized as
follows:

Macrolides
In addition to the aforementioned active agents, topical administration of antibiotics particularly macrolides are used in the treatment
of acne. Oral administration is used for severe acne and acne that
is resistant to topical treatment [1]. The macrolides, erythromycin
and clindamycin, are used with respect to their anti-oxidant and
anti-inflammatory activities [69, 70]. However, P. acne resistance
[35] as well as gastrointestinal irritation and vaginal candidiasis
especially photosensitivity including drug interactions were found
following applications of macrolides [66]. Although a structural
modification in a fewer gastrointestinal side-effect agent, azithromycin, was carried out. It was found to accumulate in breast milk
[71].
Tetracyclines
Another class of antibiotic that is widely used in acne treatment is
tetracyclines. Tetracyclines show anti-inflammatory activity inhibiting PG synthesis as well as NO synthase suppression [72, 73].
However, the adverse effects of tetracyclines are similar to those of
macrolides. The most common side effects are lightheadedness,
dizziness and tinnitus [74] including yellow staining of teeth and
nail diseases such as photo-onycholysis, although these side effects
are not common in doxycycline and minocycline. Light sensitivity
has been demonstrated following the administration of doxycycline
[75].
To overcome the adverse effects of antibiotics, combination therapy with a systemic treatment should be conducted. Stepwise treatment must be carried out to minimize antibiotic exposure
diminishing microbial resistance.
In addition to the aforementioned treatments, hormonal therapy
with anti-androgens such as spironolactone, flutamine and cyproterone acetate has been used to treat acne. However, adverse
effects have been noted [10, 76]. Laser and light-based therapy
potentially clear acne with improvements in acne scarring and skin
texture. Nonetheless, these methods are costly and pain causing
[77].
Thus, a natural therapy lacking adverse effects is highly desired
with respect to its conceivable safety [33] and rare P. acne resistance. Naturally derived compounds, particularly those from herbs,
are therefore reviewed in this article. The herbs included are those
of well known and candidate herbs used in the future development
of anti-acne products.

Already used herbs

Aloe vera extract is used as a component in Ayurvedic formulations. It significantly reduced acne lesions [80]. This Asian dermatological remedy was in accord with the therapeutic use of Aloe
spp. in South Africa [81]. However, A. vera was insignificant to
suppress P. acnes-induced ROS and proinflammatory cytokines
[82]. In the same ayurvedic formulation, Azadirachta indica,
Curcuma longa and Hemidesmus incidus were used for acne treatment [80]. These herbs significantly suppressed the production of
ROS induced by P. acnes [82]. Accordingly, their anti-inflammatory
activity should be stronger than A. vera, highlighting their potential
in inflammatory lesions treatment.
A common spice, poultice onion (Allium cepa), was traditionally
used for acne [83] owing to its mild keratolytic, anti-fungal and
bacteriostatic properties with respect to its sulphur containing [84]
including its anti-inflammatory flavonoids [85]. However, its malodor limits the application as well as the possibility of irritation.
Asia is not the only continent using traditional herbs for the
treatment of acne vulgaris. Centella asiatica was used as a general
tonic for leprosy and wounds particularly for acne in Africa [86].
Although its mechanism remains unknown, skin care products
containing C. asiatica are widely commercialized in Asia.
Essential oils of Eucalyptus radiate and Melaleuca alternifolia
commonly known as Australian eucalyptus and tea tree,
respectively, have been extensively used in acne treatment [87].
M. alternifolia oil gel was found to effectively reduce acne lesions
compared with benzoyl peroxide at the same concentration but fewer
side effects [88]. Its inhibitory activity against skin flora including
S. aureus, S. epidermidis and P. acnes was contributed by the major
aroma components, terpinen-4-ol, a-terpineol and a-pinene [89].
However, terpene and limonene in tea tree oil caused allergies in
hypersensitive skin [90]. Thus, caution regarding the dose used
should be taken. However, adverse reaction of tea tree oil is rare.
Therefore, it is one of the most popular and effective over-the-counter
acne treatments [45]. In addition, juniper (Juniperus communis) oil
was also found to be effective in the treatment of acne [87].
Licorice or Glycyrrhiza glabra, an herb native to Asian countries,
was topically applied in the treatment of acne [91] because of its
anti-inflammatory effect [92]. However, its anti-oxidant activity
was low [93]. In addition, Gossypium barbadense, an anti-microbial
and anti-oxidant herb [94], was used as a folk remedy for acne in
Yemen owing to its biologically active terpenoids [95].
Basil or O. gratissimum was used to treat acne both in combination with A. vera gel [96] or alone [97] because of the powerful
anti-inflammatory activity of the containing linolenic acid [98].
Rosa damascene, which is mostly used as a fragrance, was found
to effectively inhibit P. acnes with respect to its anti-inflammatory
action [99]. Similarly, rose oil was used in the treatment of acne
[87]. Therefore, rose should be incorporated into cosmetic products
as a multifunctional ingredient. Red clover or Trifolium pretense was

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International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33, 289297

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M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment

employed as an acne remedy because of its anti-inflame flavonoids

[100].
Subjectively used herbs
In addition to the aforementioned herbal extracts, the following
herbs have been used subjectively in acne treatment:
The anti-inflammatory effects of Roman and German chamomiles (Anthemis nobilis and Matricaria recutita) were applied in skin
inflammation treatment owing to their biologically active flavonoids, particularly apigenin, a-bisabolol and chamazulene [101].
Comparable activity against P. acnes and S. epidermidis was
found between tea tree and Abies koreana oils containing bornyl
acetate, limonene, a-pinene and camphene as the main compounds. In addition to acne pathogenesis inhibition, A. koreana oil
exhibited anti-inflammatory effects towards LPS, TNF, IL, NO and
PG [102]. In addition to those mentioned biologically active essential oils, S. epidermidis was found to be inhibited by Salvia sclarea
(minimum inhibitory concentration; MIC = 1.52 mg ml)1) [103]
and Ziziphora clinopodioides [104] oils. Furthermore, the essential
oils of Anthemis aciphylla [105] and Tamarix bovena [105] were
found to inhibit facial flora that would applicable in acne care
product.
Eucommia ulmoids, a traditional tonic used in East Asia, was
found to potently inhibit P. acnes (MIC = 0.5 mg m)1) and reduced
the secretion of proinflammatory cytokines [99]. Thus, this herb

should be further formulated in acne care products and clinically

evaluated to prove its efficacy in human volunteer.
The susceptibility of P. acnes and S. epidermidis was tested on
hop (Humulus lupus)-isolated compounds, lupulones and xanthohumol. Lupulones were the most potent bactericidal compounds
against P. acne and S. epidermis at a MIC of 0.1 lg ml)1, whereas
xanthohumol, a strong S. epidermidis inhibitor, showed stronger
anti-oxidant activity [107].
Jojoba liquid wax, a common ingredient of cosmetics, was found
to effectively reduce neutrophil infiltration by reducing myeloperoxidase activity. Nitric oxide level was reduced as well as TNF-a
release [108], which is appraisal for inflammatory acne treatment.
The oriental anti-inflammatory herb [109], Magnolia officinalis,
has long been used in East Asian countries. Its magnolol and honokiol potently inhibit P. acnes and P. granulosum (MIC = 34 and
9 lg ml)1, respectively) with the proven anti-inflammatory effects
[110].
Radical scavenging activities of emblica or Phyllanthus emblica
were found to be appropriate for acne treatment because of its
active components that were mainly ascorbic acid, gallic acid and
skin whitening agents, quercetins, and ellagic acid. In particular,
the isolated geraniin showed the highest activities in DPPH and
lipid peroxidation assays as well as NO scavenging activity [111
114].
Biological activity assessments of Punica granatum, which is
an edible fruit, were made using radical, lipid peroxidation and

Table I Functions and applications of herbs for topical acne treatment

Name

Function

Application/Dosage

Abies koreana
Allium cepa
Aloe vera
Anthemis aciphylla
Anthemis nobilis
Aralia continentalis
Azadirachta indica
Centella asiatica
Clerodendron trichotomum
Curcuma longa
Garcinia mangostana
Glycyrrhiza glabra
Gossypium barbadense
Eucommia ulmoides
Hemidesmus incidus
Humulus lupus
Magnolia officinalis
Matricaria recutita
Melaleuca alternifolia
Ocimum gratissimum
Phyllanthus emblica
Punica granatum
Rosa damascene
Salvia sclarea
Selginella involvens
Tamarix bovena
Trifolium pretense
Ziziphora clinopodioides

P. acnes and S. epidermidis inhibitions and anti-inflame [102]

Anti-inflame [83]
Anti-inflame [8082]
Anti-bacterial [105]
Anti-inflame [101]
Anti-inflame [117]
Anti-inflame [80]
Wounds and acne scar healings [86]
Anti-inflame [118]
Anti-bacterial, anti-inflame [80, 82, 119]
P. acnes and S. epidermidis inhibitions, anti-oxidant [121123]
Anti-inflame, anti-oxidant [9193]
Anti-microbial, anti-oxidant [94, 95]
P. acnes inhibition and anti-inflame [99]
Anti-inflame [80, 82]
P. acnes and S. epidermidis inhibitionsand anti-oxidant [107]
P. acnes and P. granulosum inhibitionsand anti-inflame [110]
Anti-inflame [101]
P. acnes, S. aureus and S. epidermidis inhibitions[8789]
Anti-inflame [96, 97]
Anti-oxidant [111114]
Anti-oxidant [115]
P. acnes inhibition and anti-inflame [99]
S. epidermidis inhibitions [103]
Anti-inflame, anti-oxidant and P. acnes inhibition [116]
Anti-microbial [106]
Anti-inflame [100]
S. epidermidis inhibition [104]

Essential oil
Poultice
Cream, gel
Essential oil
Cream, ointment
Not available
Cream, gel, essential oil
Tonic
Not available
Cream, gel
Not available
Not available
Decoction
Tonic
Cream, gel
Not available
Decoction
Cream, ointment
Cream, gel, essential oil
Gel
Not available
Not available
Tea
Essential oil
Not available
Essential oil
Lotion
Essential oil

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Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment

Table II Herbs enrich active compounds against acne

Active compounds

Herbs

Terpinen-4-ol, a-terpineol, a-pinene

Apigenin, a-bisabolol, chamazulene
Magnolol, honokiol
Lupulones, xanthohumol
Linoleic and lauric acids

Australian eucalyptus and tea tree oils [89]

Roman and German chamomiles [101]
Magnolia [110]
Hop [107]
Apricot, argan, avocado, baobab, black currant seed, borage seed, cranberry seed, corn, coconut, cotton seed,
evening primrose, grape seed, hazelnut, linseed, manketti nut, moringa, palm, poppy seed, pumpkin, rapeseed,
raspberry seed, rice bran, safflower, sesame, sorghum, soybean, sunflower, sweet almond, walnut, wheat germ
[124126, 134]
Anise, bay, basil, canella, caraway, cayenne, celery, cinnamon, chilli, coriander, fenugreek, parsley, meadowsweet,
mint, mustard, oregano, paprika, pepper, rosemary, sage, turmeric, thyme, willow [127132]
Barley, rye, sorghum, wheat [134]

Salicylic acid
Azelaic acid

superoxide assays [115]. Its anti-oxidant quality was high highlighting its capacity in the development of acne care products that
have already been commercialized in Asia.
The inhibition of NO production and scavenging activity of Selginella involvens were found to be dose dependent. This herb also has
an anti-inflammatory effect towards IL in keratinocytes. Furthermore, its non-antibiotic, anti-microbial potential on P. acnes has
been reported and was non-cytotoxic at a concentration
<50 lg ml)1 [116].
There were anti-inflammatory reports of Chinese medicinal
plants root and leaf extracts. These include Aralia continentalis via
inhibition of cyclooxygenase-2 (COX-2) and NO expression including NF-jB deactivation [117]. Clerodendron trichotomum was found
to suppress PGE2 production [118], which appropriates for inflammatory acne treatment.
Prevention of acne was traditionally carried out using Ayurvedic
formulations containing Curcuma longa [80, 119], which have antibacterial and anti-inflammatory activities [120]. This plant has
long been used in Thai folk remedies for skin care and for its aromatherapy aspects in various traditional preparations, for instance
masks, and compresses.
Garcinia mangostana is another economic fruit of Thailand. Its
pericarp consisted of xanthones that potently inhibit P. acnes and
S. epidermidis [121]. These anti-bacterial activities were found
increased in a mature fruit [122]. Furthermore, it was found to be
highly effective in free radical scavenging following P. acnes induction and suppressed the production of TNF-a, a pro-inflammatory
cytokine [123], particularly in young fruit [122].
The anti-inflammatory effects of free fatty acid in sebum particularly linoleic and lauric acids were found to inhibit P. acnes [124].
Therefore, plants containing linoleic acid may be applicable in acne
lesion reduction. Sunflower (Helianthus annuus) and pumpkin
(Cucurbita pepo) seed oils as well as flax or linseed oil (Linum sp.),
which have a high fatty acid content mainly linoleic and linolenic
acids, were incorporated into a preparation for dermatological
treatments including acne [125]. In addition to those natural oils,
apricot (Prunus armeniaca), argan (Argania spinosa), avocado (Persea
gratissima), baobab (Adansonia digitata), black currant seed (Rines
nigrum), borage seed (Borago officinalis), cranberry seed (Vaccinium
macrocarpon), corn (Zea mays), cotton seed (Gossypium sp.), evening
primrose (Oenothera biennis), grape seed (Vitis vinifera), hazelnut
(Corylus americana), manketti nut (Schinziophyton rautanenii), moringa (Moringa oliefera), palm (Elaesis guineensisi), poppy seed (Papaver
orientale), rapeseed (Brassica napus), raspberry seed (Rubus idaeus),

rice bran (Oryza sativa), safflower (Carthamus tinctorius), sesame

(Sesamum indicum), soybean (Glycine soja), sweet almond (Prunus
amygdalus), walnut (Juglans regia) and wheat germ (Triticum vulgare) oils, which contain more than 10% (w w)1) of linoleic acid
[126], are used in the treatment of acne. However, evaluation of
these vegetable oils in acne treatment should be performed.
Furthermore, salicylic acid that is used to remove follicular clog
in acne treatment in addition to its skin peeling effect that significantly reduced comedones with less irritation than retinoids [45]
has been found in several herbs. Salicylic acid was originally
isolated from meadowsweet (Spiraea ulmaria) or Filipendula ulmaria
[127, 128] including F. hexapetala [129] and willow (Salix alba)
[130]. Anise, bay, basil, canella, caraway, cayenne, celery, cinnamon, chilli, coriander, fenugreek, parsley, mint, mustard, oregano,
paprika, pepper, rosemary, sage, turmeric and thyme are used as
natural sources of salicylic acid [131, 132]. These herbs and spices
in addition to fruits, for instance lemon, have been found to contain free salicylic acid in high content [133].
As previously mentioned, azelaic acid is an efficacious acne
treatment. Therefore, herbs containing azelaic acid should be effective in the treatment of acne. Sorghum bicolor is a cereal crop that
contains azelaic acid and linoleic acid in adequate yield [134] similar to wheat, rye and barley that contain azelaic acid.
Thus, application of these mentioned herbs is appraisal in acne
care product supplying highly interest and demand in naturally
derived cosmetics.
Discussion
Tea tree oil has been widely commercialized as an over-thecounter acne treatment and may be preferred owing to its efficacy
and safety. However, the oriental tonic particularly E. ulmoids is
considered an alternative herb for acne treatment as its crude
extract potently inhibits P. acnes as well as magnolia and hop.
Those of linoleic acidenriched and azelaic acidenriched herbs
are capable for anti-acne formulation development, especially sorghum. Similarly, the essential oils especially from S. sclarea and
Z. clinopodioides should be developed into anti-acne products as
well as from A. koreana in addition to their functions as
fragrance. In particular, rose should be promoted as a multifunction active ingredient for acne treatment. Moreover, those edible
fruits with anti-oxidant and anti-bacterial activities, for example
G. mangostana, P. emblica and P. granatum, should be developed as
acne care products.

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M. Kanlayavattanakul and N. Lourith

Therapeutic agents and herbs in topical application for acne treatment

Conclusion
The herbs summarized in Tables I and II were found to effectively
reduce inflammatory acne lesions through mechanisms related to
sebaceous glands, P. acnes and ROS. However, an appropriate delivery system should be developed to impart their efficacies in addition
to the standardization of these herbs. Furthermore, an optimized and
effective dose should be evaluated prior to the development of
preparations in order to avoid irritation or allergy in subjects with

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2011 The Authors

ICS 2011 Society of Cosmetic Scientists and the Societe Francaise de Cosmetologie
International Journal of Cosmetic Science, 33, 289297

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