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ORIGINAL JOURNALS

OF THE

LEWIS AND CLARK EXPEDITION


1804-1806

WITH FACSIMILES, MAPS, PLANS, VIEWS, PORTRAITS, AND


A BIBLIOGRAPHY

VOLUME THREE

P ART I
Journals and Orderly Book of Lewis and Clark, from the Shoshoni
Camp on Lemhi River to the Encampment on the Columbia
River near the Mouth of the Umatilla River
August 21, 1805 – October 20, 1805
1805] THE LOLO TRAIL

C HAPTER XVII

DOWN THE LOLO TRAIL


Clark’s Journal, August 27 - October 10, 1805
Entries by Lewis, September 9, 10, 18-22

[Clark:] August 27th Tuesday 1805

S OME frost this morning every Man except one, out


1
hunting, a young man Came from the upper Village
t
& informed me that Cap Lewis would join me ab 12
t

o Clock to day. one man killed a Small Sammon, and the


Indians gave me another which afforded us a Sleight brackfast.
Those Pore people are here depending on what fish they can
catch, without anything else to depend on; and appere con-
tented, my party hourly Complaining of their retched Situa-
tion and [word illegible in MS. - ED.] doubts of Starveing in
a Countrey where no game of any kind except a fiew fish can
be found, an Indian brough[t] in to the Camp 5 Sammon,
two of which I purchased which afforded us a Supper

August 28th Wednesday 1805


s
a frost this morning. The Ind Cought out of their traps
Several Sammon and gave us two. I purchased two others
which we made last us to day. Several – a Camp of about
40 Indians came from the West fork and passed up to day,
nothing killed by my party with every exertion in all places
2
where game probably might be found. I dispatched one man
1
I observed some flax growing in the bottoms on this river, but saw no clover or
timothy, as I had seen on the Missouri and Jefferson river. There is a kind of wild
sage or hyssop, as high as a man’s head, full of branches and leaves, which grows in
these bottoms.- GASS (pp. 181, 182).
2
I went on to the upper village, where I found Captain Lewis and his party buy-
ing horses. They had got 23, which, with two we had, made in the whole 25. I
then returned to our camp, a distance of 15 miles, and arrived there late. - GASS
(p. 182).
[45]
LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS [Aug. 28

to the upper Camps to enquire if Cap. Lewis was comeing &c.


t
he returned after night with a letter from Cap Lewis informing
me of his Situation at the upper Village, and had precured 22
horses for our rout through by land on the plan which I had
preposed in which he agreed with me in; and requ[e]sted me
to ride up, and get the horses the Indians informed him they
1
had reserved for me &c. I purchased Some fish roe of those
pore but kind people with whome I am Encamped for which I
gave three Small fish hooks, the use of which they readily pro-
seved; one Indian out all day & killed only one Sammon with
his gig; My hunters killed nothing; I had three pack
t
Saddles made to day for our horses which I expected Cap
Lewis would purchase &c. Those Sammon which I live On
at present are pleasent eateing, notwithstanding they weaken
me verry fast and my flesh find is declineing

Course Distance & [c.] over the portage from the Waters of the
Missouri to the Waters of the Columbia River.
N. 60° W. 5 Miles to a Point of a hill on the right Passed Several
points of high land bottom wide only 3 Small trees
S, 80° W 10 Miles to a place the high lands approach within 200
yards, Creek 10 yds. wide
S. W. 5 miles to a narrow part of the bottom passed a Creek
on each Side, a place the Indians were masserced
[massacred], a road coms in on the right
S. 70° W. 2 miles to a Creek on the right
S. 80° W 3 Miles to a rockey point opsd a Pine thicket on the left,
passed a run from the right
West 3 Miles to the head Spring of the Missouri near the top
of a deviding mountain at a gap
S., 80° W 6 miles to a run from the right, passed Several Small
Streams & Spring runs running to my left, and down
a Drean,
N. 80° W. 4 miles to the East fork of the Lewis’s River 40 yds Wide
Miles 38 an Indian Snake Camp of 25 Lodges passed over
hilley land all the way from the deviding ridge.
1
Which, when dried and pounded, make the best of soup. – GASS (p. 183).

[46]
1805] THE LOLO TRAIL

August 29th Thursday 1805 –


a Cold morning Some frost. the Wind from the South, I
left our baggage in possession of 2 men and proceeded on up
t
to join Cap Lewis at the upper Village of Snake Indians
where I arrived at 1 oClock found him much engaged in
1
Councelling and attempting to purchase a fiew more horses.
I Spoke to the Indians on various Subjects endeavoring to
impress on theire minds the advantage it would be to them for
to sell us horses and expedite the [our] journey the nearest and
best way possibly that we might return as soon as possible
and winter with them at Some place where there was plenty of
buffalow, our wish is to get a horse for each man to carry
our baggage and for Some of the men to ride occasionally,
The horses are handsom and much acustomed to be changed
as to their Parsture, we cannot calculate on their carrying
large loads & feed on the Grass which we may calculate on
finding in the Mountain thro’ which we may expect to pass on
d
our rout Made Some Selestial observations, the Lat of this
part the Columbia River is [blank space in MS.] North.
d
Longt [blank space in MS.] W.
I purchased a horse for which I gave my Pistol 100 Balls
Powder & a Knife. our hunters Killed 2 Deer near their
Camp to day 2 yesterday & 3 the day before, this meet was
a great treat to me as I had eate none for 8 days past

August 30th Friday 1805


a fine Morning, finding that we Could purchase no more
horse[s] than we had for our goods &c. (and those not a Suffi-
cint number for each of our Party to have one which is our
wish) I Gave my Fuzee to one of the men & Sold his musket
for a horse which Completed us to 29 total horses, we Pur-
chased pack cords Made Saddles & Set out on our rout down
the [Lemhi] river by land guided by my old guide [and] one
1
The Biddle text states (i, p. 435) that the guide’s assertion of a practicable
route up Berry Creek was “contradicted by all the Shoshonees;” but the explorers
ascribed this to the Indians’ desire to retain their white guests through the winter,
and consume their merchandise. - ED.
[47]
LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS [Aug. 31

other who joined him, the old gu[i]de’s 3 Sons followed him,
before we Set out our hunters killed three Deer proceeded
1
on 12 Miles and encamped on the river South Side. at the
time we Set out from the Indian Camps the greater Part of
the Band Set out over to the waters of the Missouri. we had
great attention paid to the horses, as they were nearly all Sore
Backs, and Several pore, & young Those horses are indif-
ferent, maney Sore backs and others not acustomed to pack,
and as we cannot put large loads on them are Compelled to
purchase as maney as we can to take our Small propotion of
baggage of the Parties, (& Eate if necessary) Proceeded on
22 Miles to day

August 31st 1805 Satturday

A fine morning Set out before Sun rise, as we passed the


lodges at which place I had encamped for thre[e] nights and
2
left 2 men, those 2 men joined us and we proceeded on in the
st
Same rout I decended the 21 Instant, halted 3 hours on
3
Sammon Creek to Let our horses graze the wind hard from
the S.W. I met an Indian on horse back who fled with great
Speed to Some lodges below & informed them that the Ene-
d
mies were Coming down, arm with guns &c.... the inhabitents
of the Lodges indisceved him, we proceeded on the road on
st 4
which I had decended as far as the 1 run [Tower Cr.] below
& left the road & Proceeded up the Run in a tolerable road
4 miles & Encamped in Some old lodges at the place the road
1
This camping-place was on the Lemhi River, about eight miles above the forks
of Salmon River. - ED.
2
29th. - Capt. Clarke and all the men, except myself and another, who re-
mained to keep camp and prepare packsaddles, went up to Capt. Lewis’s camp.
30th. -We remained here all day, and in the evening the whole of the corps
came down within a mile of our camp, and remained there all night, being a good
place for grass. - GASS (pp. 182, 183).
3
See Clark’s map in our Atlas volume, where he calls this “Salmon Run.” This
is the first affluent of the Lewis (Salmon) River below the forks, and probably the
one now called Carmen Creek. - ED.
4
The emendations in bracketed Italics which appear in this part of the journal
are written in pencil, apparently by Coues. - ED.
[48]
1805] THE LOLO TRAIL

leaves the Creek and assends the high Countrey Six Indians
followed us four of them the Sons of our guide, our hunters
killed one Deer a goose & Prarie fowl. This day warm and
Sultrey, Praries or open Valies on fire in Several places. The
Countrey is Set on fire for the purpose of Collecting the dif-
ferent bands, and a Band of the Flat heads to go to the Mis-
souri where they intend passing the winter near the Buffalow
1
Proceeded on 22 miles to Day, 4 miles of which up a run

Course and Distance by land from the Columbia River 14 miles


below the forks. August 31st 1805.

N. 39° E 2 miles up Tower Creek to a hill


N. 10° E2 do do do passed remarkable rock resem-
4 bling Pirimids on the Left Side

September 1st Sunday 1805


a fine morning Set out early and proceeded on over high
ruged hills passing the heads of the Small runs which fall into
the river on our left to a large Creek which falls into the river
6 miles to our left and encamped, in the bottom: Some rain
to day at 12 and in the evening which obliges us to Continue
all night despatched 2 men to the mouth of the Creek to
purchase fish of the Indians at that place, they returned with
Some dried, we giged 4 Sammon & killed one Deer to Day.
the Countrey which we passed to day is well watered & broken
Pore Stoney hilly country except the bottoms of the Creek
which is narrow, all the Indians leave us except our Guide,
one man Shot two bear this evining unfortunately we Could
git neither of them
1
The encampment for this night was at some distance from the river at the head
of Tower (Boyle’s) Creek upon what Clark designates on his map as a “nakid
mow.” - E D .
2
In the low ground there are most beautiful tall straight pine trees of different
kinds, except of white pine. . . . The country is very mountainous and thickly
timbered, mostly with spruce pine. - GASS (p. 187).
VOL., III.- 4
[ 49 ]
LEWIS AND CLARK JOURNALS [Sept. 2

Septr 1st Sunday


N. 80° W 1½ Miles to the top of a high hill
N. 65° W 1½ to the of a hill passing the heads of dreans passing to
our left
N. 55° W. 3½ miles to the top of a high hill passd two forks of a
Crek, the first large & bold the 2d Small
S. 80° W. 1½ mile down a raveen to a run
N. 70° W. 3½ to the top of a high hill passing a branch at ¼ & over
a hill at 1 mile
N. 35° W. 2½ to the top of a high hill
N. 29° W. 1½ to ditto passed a branch at ½ mile which passes to
the left
N. 80° W. 2½ decending a Steep winding hill to a large Creek which
we Call Fish Creek & runs into the river at Some
lodge 6 miles below South1
N. 12° W. 2 Miles up the Creek to a bluff Point.2
20

September 2nd Monday 1805


a Cloudy Morning, raind Some last night we Set out
early and proceeded on up the [Fish] Creek, Crossed a large
fork from the right and one from the left; and at 8 [7½] miles
left the roade on which we were pursuing and which leads over
3
to the Missouri, and proceeded up a West fork [of Fish Creek]
without a roade proceded on thro’ thickets in which we
were obliged to Cut a road, over rockey hill Sides where our
horses were in [per]peteal danger of Slipping to their certain
distruction & up & Down Steep hills, where Several horses
fell, Some turned over, and others Sliped down Steep hill Sides,
one horse Crippelcd & 2 gave out. with the greatest dificuelty
risque &c. we made five miles 7½ & Encamped on the left
Side of the Creek in a Small Stoney bottom. after night
Some time before the rear Came up, one Load left about 2
miles back, the horse on which it was carried crippled. Some
rain at night
1
Fish Creek is now known as the North fork of the Salmon. - ED.
2
From the encampment for this night (see Clark’s map) the trail crossed Fish
Creek, but recrossed to the east bank a short distance above. - ED.
* By way of Datang Creek and Big Hole Pass. - ED.
[50]
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