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A Defense That's
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Nines

OCTOBER 29, 2011

The Pancake of Possibilities

The dosa, South India's gluten-free crepe, can stand in for bread and take whatever filling
you toss its way
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By GAIL MONAGHAN

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A Big M
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Tara Donne for The Wall Street Journal; food styling by Martha Bernabe; prop styling by Angharad Bailey

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02-Nov-11

Dosa: The Pancake of Possibilities - WSJ.com

IT'S A WRAP | A golden dosa filled with mint-cilantro paste, potato masal and tomato chutney

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from individu
funds -- mis

I'm addicted to dosas, the wafer-thin, oversized crepes indigenous to the south of India.
Served plain or sprinkled with chopped onions, these versatile pancakesmade from little
more than dal (dried peas, beans or lentils), rice and waterenhance any Indian meal.
And outside the bread basket, they appear in combination with a wide range of fillings, the
most popular being tomato, herb or cheese omelets; fresh vegetables paired with mint
chutney; andodd as it soundsChinese noodles flavored with Indian spices.
I learned to make dosas and uttapama thicker relative of the dosa that commonly
incorporates coconut or a mix of onion, green chiles, cilantro and tomato into the batter
on a recent trip to Kerala and Tamil Nadu, two of the southernmost states in India. The

$100 M
Nabors C
Adieu

distinct, slightly fermented taste of these light pancakes was irresistible; from the first bite,
I was a convert. Despite being free of sugar, fat, dairy, cholesterol and glutenand
containing fewer than 100 caloriesboth dosas and uttapam are super-satisfying. Their
rice-and-beans foundation also makes them a good source of protein, while fermentation
boosts their content of vitamins B and C.
Since returning to New York, I've made this miracle food nonstop and now keep dosa
batter on hand at all times. Refrigerated plain, without any additions, it lasts for weeks (but
just in case, I always keep another quart or two as a back up in the freezer).
Through the ages, dosas have been partnered with Indian stews such as curries and
sambars. However, a piping hot masala dosathe pancake spread with garlicky green
herb paste and flavorful potato masalais my current go-to recipe for myself and
company. Divinely crispy on the outside and filled with a meltingly soft potato hash, it gets
a boost of flavor from a mix of fresh curry leaves, ginger and chiles. A barely cooked
tomato-dal chutney served alongside brilliantly gilds the lily, brightening the dish with
acidity and an unexpected crunch.
I've also learned that while quintessentially Indian, dosas are surprisingly tasty when
eaten with western food as a bread substitutesay, as a stand-in for pita bread or as the
base of a wrap sandwich. In addition to preparing dosas for breakfast in the Indian style
accompanied by tomato, coconut or mint chutneyI sometimes drizzle them with very
nontraditional maple or boysenberry syrup. Or, for a special treat, roll a dosa around fresh

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-herbed scrambled eggs, chopped smoked salmon, chives and a bit of sour cream. At
lunch, fold a dosa around almost any saladchicken, potato, seafood, tuna, mixed green
or even guacamole. Encasing the warmed remains of a chicken, meat or vegetable stew

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or stray roasted or grilled vegetables in a freshly made dosa is the most delicious way I
know to use up leftovers. Sprinkle chopped basil, tarragon or parsley over your impromptu
fillings and the results fly off the charts. Use your imaginationalong with the contents of

3.

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your fridgeand the scrumptious possibilities are endless.

5.

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4.

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Asian

02-Nov-11

Dosa: The Pancake of Possibilities - WSJ.com

Dosa, Potato Masala and Tomato Chutney Recipe

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Most Read

Dosa
Hands-on prep time for these pancakes is about 10 minutes to make the batter and 2-3
minutes to fry up each dosa. But be sure to start at least 24 hours ahead to allow time for
the ingredients to soak and the batter to ferment. Makes approximately 16 large dosas.

Ingredients
2 cups long-grain white or brown rice
1/4 cup urad dal*
1 teaspoon fenugreek seeds
1/2 cup cooked short-grain rice or a risotto rice such as Arborio, Carnaroli or Vialone
Nano
1 teaspoon salt
Vegetable oil
Ghee or butter (optional)

What To Do
1. Soak long-grain rice, urad dal and fenugreek in warm water for at least 6 hours and up
to 24 hours.
2. Drain mixture and place in a blender with about 2 cups warm water. Grind on high
speed, gradually adding cooked rice, until you have a very smooth batter.
3. Let batter ferment at room temperature, stirring occasionally, for at least 12 hours or
until bubbly and frothy. Once fermented, add salt and enough water to obtain the
consistency of slightly thickened cream.
4. Lightly grease a hot griddle or heavy skillet with vegetable oil. (The oil is not necessary
if using a nonstick pan.) Ladle 1/3 cup batter (use more or less to vary size of dosa) onto
griddle and, working concentrically from center, immediately spread batter with bottom of
ladle until as thin as possible.
5. Cook over medium-high heat until bubbles form and underside of dosa is golden, about
2 minutes. To create a crisp pancake, flip dosa and brush with melted ghee or butter. For
a softer pancake, don't flip it.
Potato Masala
This flavorful potato-vegetable side dish is also a popular dosa filling. The recipe takes
about 30 minutes to prepare and makes enough to fill approximately 16 dosas or serve 4
as a side dish.

Ingredients
4 large Yukon gold potatoes
1/2 teaspoon ground turmeric

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02-Nov-11

Dosa: The Pancake of Possibilities - WSJ.com

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1/2 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/8 teaspoon asafetida powder*
10 fresh curry leaves (or substitute dried curry leaves soaked in warm water for 10-15
minutes and drained)
2 teaspoons black mustard seeds
1 tablespoon urad dal*
1 cups minced onions
2/3 cup chopped tomatoes
1 green chile, seeds removed and minced
1 tablespoons minced fresh ginger
Red chile flakes, 1/4 teaspoon or to taste
1/4 cup chopped cilantro

What To Do
1. Peel potatoes, cut them in half and place in a medium saucepan. Cover with cool
water, add half the turmeric and half the salt, bring to a boil over high heat and cook until
tender, about 20 minutes. Drain and roughly chop potatoes. Set aside.
2. While potatoes are cooking, drizzle oil into a heavy skillet set over medium heat. When
oil is hot and almost smoking, add the asafetida and curry leaves and then the mustard
seeds and dal. Cook, stirring, until the mustard seeds begin to pop and the dal is golden,
30-60 seconds. Add onions, tomatoes, green chile and ginger to the pan. Stir-fry 1-2
minutes, then add red chile flakes and the remaining turmeric and salt.
3. Gently stir in reserved potatoes, cover and cook over medium heat for 3 minutes.
Remove from heat, stir in cilantro and adjust seasoning. Serve warm as a side dish or use
to fill dosas.
Tomato Chutney
This Indian "salsa" also perks up grilled chicken, salmon fillets or scrambled eggs. Makes
6-7 cups.
Heat 1/4 cup vegetable oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add 3 tablespoons mustard
seeds and cook until seeds begin to pop. Add 1/3 cup Bengal gram dal* and 2
tablespoons urad dal* along with 1 chopped onion, 25 fresh curry leaves, 3 tablespoons
minced green chile and 3 tablespoons minced fresh ginger. Cook until onions are
translucent and beginning to color, about 5 minutes. Add 3 cups finely chopped tomatoes
and cook 5 minutes, stirring frequently. Add at least 1/2 teaspoon salt and black pepper to
taste. Add 3 more cups finely chopped tomatoes and cook briefly until heated through.
Transfer to a bowl. Serve warm or at room temperature with potato masala or plain dosas.
Masala Dosa

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02-Nov-11

Dosa: The Pancake of Possibilities - WSJ.com

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Dosas are painted with mint-cilantro paste, spread with potato masala and then lightly
sauted. Hands-on time: about 20 minutes to assemble and fry up 12-16 dosas. For
easier prep, have a few skillets going at once: one or two to cook the dosa and one or two
to heat filled dosas. In a food processor, pure 1 cup each fresh mint and fresh cilantro
leaves with 1/4 cup chopped onion, 1 clove garlic, 3 tablespoons vegetable oil and salt
and pepper to taste. Set mixture aside. Prepare 12-16 dosas, cooking them on one side
only. Spread the cooked side of each dosa with a thin layer of mint-cilantro mixture. Using
prepared potato masala, spread 2 tablespoons on one half of each dosa on top of mintcilantro mixture. Fold each dosa in half so it forms a semicircle. Pat down with spatula.
Lightly brush both sides of each dosa with ghee, butter or oil. Warm skillet over medium
heat and cook dosas until golden and slightly crisp. Serve with tomato chutney.
*Available at Indian markets and at kalustyans.com
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