Permian Energy, LLC

Hydraulic Gas Compressor

HGC

VERSIONS 3 and 4
1004-1013

Operating Instructions
Models:
HGC 200

P.O. Box 433

1260 Andrews Hwy
Andrews, TX 79714

Permian Energy

HGC 200 Series

HYDRAULIC

TWO

COMPRESSOR

STAGE

VERSIONS

GAS
3 and 4

The following manual contains copyrighted information that is the exclusive property of
Permian Energy, LLC and its affiliated companies. The contents of this manual are
confidential and shall not be reproduced or copied without the prior, written approval of
the senior management of Permian Energy, LLC. Any violation of this confidential
information will punishable to the fullest extent of the law.

Intellectual Property
All Intellectual Property, as defined below, owned by or which is otherwise the property of Permian
Energy or its respective suppliers relating to the Hydraulic Gas Compressor, including but not limited
to, accessories, parts, or software relating there to, is proprietary to Permian Energy and protected
under federal laws, state laws and international treaty provisions. Intellectual Property includes, but is
not limited to, inventions (patentable or unpatentable), patents, trade secrets, copyrights, software,
computer programs, and related documentation and other works of authorship. You may not infringe
or otherwise violate the rights secured by the Intellectual Property. Moreover, you agree that you will
not (and will not attempt to) modify, prepare derivative works of , reverse engineer, decompile,
disassemble, or otherwise attempt to create source code from the software. No title to or ownership in
the Intellectual Property is transferred to you. All applicable rights of the Intellectual Property shall
remain with Permian Energy and its suppliers.

General Equipment Warranties:

PERMIAN ENERGY SHALL WARRANTY ITS WORKMANSHIP, AND ALL MECHANICAL
DEVICES THAT INCLUDE PUMPS, ENGINES, MOTORS, CONTROLS FOR A PERIOD OF SIX
MONTHS. FURTHERMORE, NATIONAL GAS COMPESSION WARRANTIES THE OVERALL
FUNTIONALITY OF THE HGC UNIT WITHIN THE DESIGN PARAMETERS OF THE UNIT.
EXTENDED WARRANTIES ON SPECIFIC PIECE OF EQUIPMENT WILL BE OFFERED BY
SEPARATE NEGOTIATIONS AND AGREEMENTS IN WRITING. IN ADDITION, PERMIAN
ENERGY SHALL NOT BE LIABLE FOR ANY COMPONENT FAILURES DUE TO
NEGLIGENCE OF OPERATORS NOR DAMAGES OCCURING AS A RESULT OF ACTS OF
GOD INCLUDING FLOODS, FIRES, LIGHTNING, TORNADOES, OR SEVERE COLD.

Disclaimer of Unwarranted Use and Exclusion of Liability:

ALL USERS OF THE HGC UNITS SHALL PROVIDE IN WRITING A DESIGN BASIS FOR THE
USE OF THE HGC THAT WILL INCLUDE THE LIMITS ON THE INJECTION PRESSURES
AND TEMPERATURES. PERMIAN ENERGY WILL PROVIDE A WRITTEN PROPOSAL
BASED UPON THESE DESIGN PARAMETERS. PERMIAN ENERGY SHALL NOT BE LIABLE
FOR ANY DAMAGE CAUSED TO SURFACE AND SUBSURFACE EQUIPMENT, WELL
CASINGS, SURFACE LINES, OR ANY OTHER ELEMENT OF THE OIL AND GAS
PRODUCTION SHOULD THE FOLLOWING HAPPEN: 1). EMPLOYEES OF PERMIAN
ENERGY, OPERATING WITHIN THE DESIGN PARAMETERS, CAUSE DAMAGE TO
SURFACE OR SUBSURFACE EQUIPMENT. 2). INDEPENDENT OPERATORS OF THE HGC
EXCEED THE DESIGN PARAMETERS AND THERE IS RESULTING DAMAGE TO THE
INTEGRITY OF THE SYSTEM.

Copyright 2008 Permian Energy. All rights reserved.

3

If, after reading the following instructions, you have additional questions related to the
use of the Hydraulic Gas Compressor, Please Contact Permian Energy, LLC.

Permian Energy, LLC

1260 Hwy 385
Andrew, TX 79714
Phone: (432) 523-2929
Fax: (432) 523-2803
President
Bob Clark
E-Mail: rjclark@permianenergy.com
General Manager
Garth Powell
E-Mail: gpowell@permianenergy.com

Compressor Technicians:
Daniel Smith
E-Mail: dsmith@permianenergy.com
Cell:
(432) 266-0364
George Brady
E-Mail: gbrady@basinbroadband.com
Cell:
(432) 266-0352

This Manual is written for Version 3 and 4 HGCs and Power Packs. Check the Serial
Number Plate located on both skids and verify that the Serial Number is 1004-1013

Power Pack Skid

Compressor Skid

200
8020 HP

1010

GPP

1010

GPP 5.7

Important Safeguards
Throughout this manual there will be safety
symbols. These are to make you aware of the
potential for injury while performing certain actions.

This symbol represents the need to be

wearing a hard hat.

You are cautioned that any changes or modifications

to the HGC not expressly approved in this manual
could void any warranty and your authority to
operate this equipment.

Important Safety Instructions

1.

Read these instructions

This symbol is intended to alert the

user of important operating and
maintenance instructions.

2.

Keep these instructions

3.

Heed all warnings

This symbol is used when protective

eyewear must be worn.

4.

Follow all instructions

5.

Only use attachments and accessories

specified by the manufacturer.

6.

Do not defeat the safety purpose of the inlet

gas pressure switch.

7.

Refer all servicing to qualified service

personnel. When for example, the
components within the control box are
damaged or the piston assemblies do not
operate normally.

8.

Use only fuel gas designated appropriate by

the manufacturer.

9.

Do not modify any components without

permission from manufacturer.

10.

Inlet gas should travel through the sand

filter unless an exception is made by the
manufacturer.

This symbol is intended to alert the

user of hot surfaces and not to touch
them.

Symbol representing the need to be

wearing protective footwear.
This symbol is used when protective
gloves must be worn.
This symbol represents the presence of
load noise and the need to wear
protective headphones.
This symbol is intended to alert the
user of flammable substances, no open
flames should be used.
This symbol is intended to alert the
user of a possible pinch point.

Installation
If mounted on a trailer, be sure to chock
the wheels when the trailer is in place.
Make sure the compressor is level before
starting it.
Do not park the HGC near a drop off or
incline that could result in the trailer
rolling.

For Safety

Damage Requiring Service

When the unit exhibits a distinct change in
performance, it indicates a need for
service.
Components within the control box fail or
are damaged.
If the engine exhibits excessive oil usage
or mechanical failure, it should be serviced
by a qualified technician.
If the hydraulic pumps were to fail.

Pick up the compressor only by the lifting

holes on the skid, or by lifting the bottom
of the skid. Do not try to lift the
compressor by the reservoir or the outer
cylinder.

Problems with the internals of the gas

manifold yoke.
Compressor unable to build hydraulic or
gas pressure

Lift the power pack using the lift points on

the engine, or by lifting the bottom of the
skid.
Do not allow anything to rest on or roll
over any of the hoses. Set up the HGC so
that the hoses are not subject to wear or
abuse.

Replacement Parts
Replacement parts are required to have the
same characteristics as the original parts,
and approved by the manufacturer.

Ventilation
Never completely close the relief valve on
the vent stack.
Never block or cover the front of the
radiator. Air flow through the radiator
allows it to dissipate the heat from the
coolant.

Table of Contents
Disclaimers ..................................................................................3
Contact Information.....................................................................4
Important Safeguards............................................................... 5-6
Contents .......................................................................................7
Introducing the HGC ............................................................. 8-12
Preparing for the HGC...............................................................13
Components ...............................................................................14
Power Pack
Safety Components ....................................................... 15-16
Gas Inlet Assembly .............................................................17
Hydraulic Fluid Assembly ............................................ 18-21
Hi/Lo System ................................................................ 22-23
Control Box................................................................... 24-28
Pump ...................................................................................29
Hydrualic Oil Cooler...........................................................30
Engine Specifications..........................................................30
Engine Accessories ....................................................... 31-33
Compressor
Overview.............................................................................34
Gas Inlet Assembly .............................................................35
Hydraulic Reservoir ............................................................36
Bypass Filter .....................................................................337
Directional Controller ................................................... 38-41
Gas Manifold Yoke....................................................... 42-44
Compressor Cylinder .................................................... 45-46
Piston Assembly ........................................................... 47-52
Compressor Box ........................................................... 53-54
HGC Connections ................................................................ 55-56
Starting the HGC
Quick Checklist Version 3 ..................................................57
Detailed Checklist Version 3 ........................................ 58-64
Quick Checklist Version 4 ..................................................65
Detailed Checklist Version 4 ........................................ 66-72
Maintenance
Overview.............................................................................72
Maintenance Operation Table.............................................73
Testing Electrical Systems and Safety Switches........... 74-82
Changing Fluids ............................................................ 83-86
Replacing Fan Belt........................................................ 87-88
Piston Assembly (Remove, Inspect, Install) ................. 89-96
Adjusting Vent Stack Pressure............................................97
Adjusting Throttle Body .....................................................98
Setting the Timer.................................................................98
Adjusting the Governor Controller .....................................99
Replacing Outer Cylinder Gasket .....................................100
Changing Filters........................................................ 101-104
Relays ...............................................................................105
Pump (Testing, Removing, Installing) ...................... 106-107
Directional Controller ............................................... 108-111
Adjusting Regulators ........................................................112
Gas Manifold Yoke (Remove, Inspect, Install)......... 113-115
Traveling Preparations ......................................................116

Troubleshooting
Overview .......................................................................... 117
Very High Discharge Pressure Compared
to What it Should Be ....................................................... 118
HGC is Short Stroking ..................................................... 119
No Power in Standby Mode ............................................. 120
Difference in Inlet and Outlet Pressure
of Sand Filter .................................................................... 121
Stage 1 Pressure is Higher Than Stage 2 .......................... 122
Murphy Pressure Gauge No Working Correctly .............. 123
Piston Hitting Hard Changing Stages............................... 124
Engine is Overheating ...................................................... 125
Inter-Stage Pressure Stops at a Certain Pressure .......126-127
Leaking Fluid ................................................................... 128
HGC Stays in Standby Mode ....................................129-130
Engine Will Not Start ................................................131-132
HGC is Not Building Gas Pressure ...........................133-134
RPM Will Not Increase at Start-up .................................. 135
Engine Temperature Gauge Fluctuating........................... 136
Loud Banging Noise From Compressor .......................... 137
HGC Shuts Down, Engine Will Not Stay Running ...138-139
Engine is Running Rough................................................. 140
Engine Oil is Foaming in Sight Glass .............................. 141
Loud Chirping Noise From Engine .................................. 142
Piston Does Not Slide as it Should................................... 143
Bypass Filter Gasket Blows Out....................................... 144
Noticeable Difference in Bypass Filter Pressure .............. 145
Difference in Temperature on Hydraulic Gauges............. 146
Hydraulic Oil is Overheating............................................ 147
The HGC is Losing Hydraulic Fluid ................................ 148
Hydraulic Oil Float Not Operating Correctly................... 149
When Stage 2 Finishes, It Shifts Twice............................ 150
Noise Coming From Pump............................................... 151
Murphy Pressure Gauge Needle Contact Wear ................ 152
Pressure Spike Within the Outer Cylinder ....................... 153
Engine Speed Fluctuates and Over Speeds................154-155
Chattering or Buzzing from Yoke .................................... 156
Gas Temperature Overheating.......................................... 157
Oil Out of Vent Stack When Starting............................... 158
Appendix
Overview .......................................................................... 159
Glossary.....................................................................160-165
Wiring Diagrams .............................................................. 166
Manufacturers Component Materials
Pump .........................................................................167-170
Directional Controller................................................171-179
Gauges and Safety Switches......................................180-210
Hydraulic Oil Cooler .................................................211-215
Speed Controller............................................................... 216
HGC Statistics .................................................................. 217
Part Numbers.................................................................... 218
Tools Needed.................................................................... 219
FAQ...........................................................................220-221

Introducing the HGC

Using This Manual

This section will give a general overview of how the Hydraulic Gas
Compressor works and a list of many of the key features and statistics of the
machine.
We recommend that you carefully review the contents of the following
seven sections in the order shown to ensure that you fully understand the
operation of the HGC. Throughout this manual we will refer to the
Hydraulic Gas Compressor as the HGC.

1.

Preparing for the HGC

This section covers the basic operational needs of the HGC. If your
site does not have the proper requirements to run the HGC, changes
will need to be made before the HGC can be used at that site.

2.

Components
This section will cover all of the components that make up the HGC.
It is broken up into two main systems, the power pack and the
compressor.

3.

Connecting the HGC

This section covers what hoses and fittings need to be connected
before the HGC can be operated.

4.

Starting the HGC

This section will provide a checklist of all the operations needed to
be performed when starting the HGC. There is a quick checklist for
when you are comfortable starting the unit, and also a detailed list
that covers each step in depth.

5.

Maintenance
This section will cover how to maintain and service the HGC. This
section only covers routine maintenance and repairs, for major
repairs a qualified technician should service the unit.

6.

Troubleshooting
This section will provide a list of situations where the HGC is not
operating normally. How to diagnose the problem and solutions to
the problem.

7.

Appendix
This section provides additional useful information about the HGC.

Features
The HGC has several distinctive features, that make the technology unique
to the oil and gas industry.

These features of the HGC include:

Self Adjusts to Differing Inlet and Outlet Pressures
Flameless Heat : 350F+
Gas or Electric Drive
High Discharge Temperatures
Durability and Simple Maintenance
Pulsation Effect
Multiple Safety Controls

Applications

The HGC is not limited to one specific use, its design enables it to perform
several different useful applications.
Applications suited for the HGC:
Surface Compression
Gas Lift
Paraffin Control: Uphole Near Wellbore
Uniform dispersion of chemical down hole
Formation Stimulation

Synopsis of How it
Works

Visit: www.permianenergy.com for an animated illustration of how the

fluids are moving within the compressor.

Gas Flow

Hydraulic Oil Flow

Dashed Red = Inlet and Stage 1 Gas

Dashed Blue = Stage 2 and
Discharge Gas

Orange = Fluid to Power Pack Red = Stage 1 Fluid Blue = Stage 2 Fluid
Yellow = Outer Cylinder Fluid Green = Bypass Fluid Black = Murphy Gauges

Gas Flow Through the HGC

1. Gas enters the sand filter from gas line
2. Filtered gas enters compressor inlet and flows into
Stage 1.
3. Stage 1 fills up with inlet gas pushing the piston back.
4. Hydraulics push piston forward compressing the gas
and forces it into Stage 2.

5. Stage 2 piston is pushed back by incoming gas.

6. Gas is compressed by piston and pushed up to the top of
yoke, out the discharge hose.
7. As Stage 2 compresses, inlet gas is filling stage 1 to
repeat the process.

Flow of Hydraulic Oil Through the HGC

1. Fluid from the reservoir travels to the hydraulic
manifold assembly on the Power Pack.
2. The fluid is forced by pumps from the manifold to the
directional controller.
3. Depending on the solenoid, the fluid will be directed to
different locations.
4. In Standby mode the fluid will go to Stage 1, Stage 2,
and Outer Cylinder.
5. During Stage 1, the fluid goes down the Stage 1 line to
fill the ram tube.
6. Ram extends increasing hydraulic pressure, when the
Murphy reads a set pressure it will switch the
solenoid.
7. As Stage 1 piston extends, the stage 2 piston gets
pushed back, forcing the fluid in its ram tube to flow
back to the directional controller.

8. This fluid gets routed to the outer cylinder.

9. During Stage 2, the fluid goes to the Stage 2 ram tube.
10. Ram gets pushed forward, hydraulic pressure increase
until the Murphy gauge trips the solenoid.
11. As Stage 2 compresses, the inlet gas is pushing the first
stage piston back. This forces the fluid in its ram tube
back down the line to the directional controller.
12. This Fluid gets routed to the outer cylinder.
13. There is always a flow of fluid through the outer
cylinder.
14. The outer cylinder fluid fills up the Stage 2 side first,
then travels through the crossover hose to Stage 1.
15. When the Stage 1 side fills up, it drains back to the filter
section of the reservoir through the return line.

10

General Overview
Both pumps are always running and moving
fluid if the engine is running.
The Murphy pressure gauges have both PSI
and MPA on them. The PSI is on the outside
along the edge of the glass. This manual uses
PSI for all of the settings, do not switch the
two when setting the contacts.
Hi/Lo Murphy gauge on the power pack
controls the solenoid on the hydraulic
manifold, which determines when the second
pump assists the first.
If set too high the Hi/Lo can kill the engine if
it results in working the engine too hard and
starving it.
The temperature sensor on the hydraulic
volume tank is set to send the unit to standby
if oil temperature reaches 180F.

The Premo filtration device is designed to

extend the life of the engine oil. It heats the
fluid to evaporate moisture and filters the oil
down to 5 microns.
The Premo filter needs to be changed every
350 hours. Change the engine oil filter every
other Premo filter change.
Can cause the HGC to go into Standby
Hydraulic oil temperature
Low inlet gas pressure
Can cause the HGC to kill the engine
Engine temperature
Engine oil pressure
Hydraulic oil level
Engine oil level
Hi/Lo set too high
Discharge gas temperature

The ball valve above the oil cooler can be

closed to bypass the oil cooler if needed.

Once ignition switch turns to start, it has to go

back to the off position before you can attempt
to engage the starter again.

The engine only needs 4-5 oz of gas to run, it

will use 4-5 MCF per day, if ran the whole
time.

The Murphy level maintainer need to be

properly ser before it is able to maintain the
correct amount of fluid.

The inlet gas scrubber has a tube in the center

that forces the gas down and then up to exit.
This causes any liquids to drop down, which
than can be drained.

The inlet gas pressure switch is set to open at

25 psi and closes at 20 psi.

Always set the second contact on the Hi/Lo

Murphy gauge first.
The engine are industrial GM 5.7 L engines
designed to run on natural gas.
Cooling system holds approximately 5 gallons
of coolant.

Even though, the inlet gas sensor is reading

enough pressure, there may not be enough
volume at that pressure to run the HGC.
When inlet gas is introduced to the compressor
it will push the first stage piston back. Some
gas will also get past the rings and fill the
reservoir through the bypass line. Once a
certain pressure is achieved within the
reservoir, the excess gas will be vented out the
vent stack.

RPM Range: 1800-2500

The gas from the reservoir is also used as
back-up gas.
11

General Overview
The hydraulic oil reservoir consists of two
sections, the filter section and the reservoir
section.
The filter section holds two filters that the oil
has to pass through before entering the
reservoir section.
The filter section holds: 30 gallons
Reservoir section: 135 gallons
Any fluid that makes it past the rings will go
to the bypass line, it is filtered and reenters the
reservoir.
Outer Cylinder Pressure: 10-25 psi
There are two pressure gauges on the bypass
filter housing. A difference between them is a
sign the filter needs replaced.
Replace the filter every 700 hours or each
engine oil filter.
Bypass Filter Pressure: 0 - 25psi
Bypass filter will blowout above 60 psi.
The relief valve is set at 3500 psi on the
directional controller, and the solenoid uses
magnets to move the rod inside of it.
The inner and outer cylinders are connected at
the yoke. There are two separate cylinders for
each stage of the compressor.
Hydraulic oil flows between the inner and
outer cylinders, this provides cooling for the
hydraulic oil and the inner cylinder.
The pressure on the vent stack should be
between 5-7 psi. It can be as high as 10 psi.
Set the pressure by adjusting the relief valve
located on the vent stack.
The discharge hose is rated up to 450F and a
working pressure of 1500 psi.
The sand filter has to stand up right to allow
any liquids to drain out.

The ball valves along the hydraulic oil suction

hose, are the most important valves. They
have to be open before starting the engine. If
they are closed you will burn up the pumps
rather quickly.
The HGC will go to standby when the
hydraulic oil hits 180F.
The valve on the sand filter needs to be
opened slowly when first letting gas into the
compressor.
The gas inlet cam lock on the compressor has
to be covered if traveling with the HGC.
The maximum inlet gas pressure is 125 psi.
The HGC typically runs at 6-10 strokes per
minute.
The pumps will move 30-60 gallons per
minute, based on the pump size and engine
speed.
The Murphy pressure gauges in the Murphy
box are connected to the directional controller
and also the solenoid. They read the pressure
within the directional controller, once the
pressure reaches a set point, they will tell the
solenoid to change directions.
The vent stack has two sections of screening
material. The material acts as a demister,
which causes the moisture to collect and drop
back to the reservoir.
The wiper band clears the inner cylinder of
any material, clearing the surface for the
sealing rings.
The sealing rings hold back most of the gas
and hydraulics as the piston compresses the
gas. As the piston extends forward
compressing gas, it is sliding on the sealing
rings which are being pushed outward.
12

Preparing for the HGC

Preparations

The HGC requires very few alterations to be made to the wellhead. There
are however, a few key aspects that need to be present for the HGC to run
properly.

Inlet Gas Pressure

The HGC requires a minimum amount of gas pressure to operate. The

pressure switch is set to open at 40 psi and close at 20 psi. If the inlet gas
pressure is not above 40 psi, the switch will stay closed and not allow the
HGC to pump, it will go to standby mode until the pressure builds past 40
psi.

In certain situations the gas pressure may be above the required amount, but the volume is not
enough to sustain the HGC running over an extended period of time. In these cases you will
need to find a supplemental source for the gas used by the HGC.
As stated before the HGC needs a minimum amount of pressure to operate, but the standard
HGC also has a maximum inlet working pressure of 125 psi. If the well has too much gas
pressure, we will need a regulator or Kimray to keep the gas in the operating range that is
needed. The HGC can be designed to handle higher inlet pressures.
Another concern when it comes to setting up the well site is the integrity of the surface lines
and vessels the fluid or gas from the well will be pumped to. Whether it goes through a
separator or dumps straight into a tank or goes down the production flow line, you will need
some means of moving the fluid or gas. Also this means that the flow lines need to be
functional and able to handle the flow of various pressures.

Wellhead or Site

Getting the wellhead or site prepared for the HGC will be different for every
well, since no two sites are the same. The HGC requires a 1" male
compression fitting for the discharge hose to connect to with a high pressure
ball valve in front of it along the line. The ball valve is needed to shut in the
line if the hose connecting the HGC is removed.

Currently we are using a 2" hose with cam locks to connect the sand filter. In addition to the
fitting for the discharge hose, a 2" male cam lock fitting will be needed on the source of gas.
Also depending on how the wellhead is set up, it may require the installation of pressure
gauges to monitor how the well is responding to the HGC. Usually a pressure gauge on the
casing and tubing sides of the piping are recommended.
When treating down hole, it will also be helpful if the wellhead is plumbed so you can transfer
from pumping down the tubing to the casing and vise versa, by opening and closing valves.
This will save time and effort, otherwise the discharge hose has to be repeatedly moved back
and forth.
13

Components
A component is defined as a part of a mechanical or electrical system. The HGC is built with two
main systems; the power pack and the compressor. The Component section will cover each of these
systems and break each one down into integral parts of each system.

Safety Components
Materials
Oil Pressure Sensor
Engine Oil Level Maintainer
Hydraulic Temperature Gauge
Hydraulic Oil Level Float

Inlet Gas Pressure Switch

Gas Temperature Gauge
Hydraulic Pressure Relief Valve
Adjustable Pressure Relief Valve
Sand Filter

Power Pack
Fuel Gas Inlet Assembly
Hydraulic Fluid Manifold Assembly
Hi/Lo System
Control Box
Pump
Engine and Accessories
Hydraulic Oil Cooler

Compressor

Gas Inlet Assembly

Vent Stack Assembly
Hydraulic Oil Reservoir
Directional Controller

Yoke and Gauges

Compressor Cylinder
Compressor Box

14

Safety Components

Before covering all of the HGC components; the safety features and components
will be covered first. The HGC is easy to operate, very durable and designed to be
very safe. Every component has been tested and constant improvements are being
tested and implemented to make it even safer and more reliable.
All of the safety components can all be checked and tested easily without the HGC
running, the process does not take much time either. Each safety feature will be
covered in more detail in the following component section of the manual.

Materials

All of the materials and components are built with safety factors several times
higher than required. In the unlikely event of a failure, the material specifications
are such that it will not be an immediate danger. All of the hoses used on the HGC;
are all rated for pressures and temperatures much higher than they would actually
need to handle.
In addition to the materials all being of high quality; built into the HGC are several
safety components that protect the HGC and operator from damage

Engine Safety
Components

Oil Pressure Sensor

The HGC power pack comes equipped with an oversized radiator. This allows
it to operate in the warmest regions. If the engine were to overheat, the
temperature sensor would shut down the engine at 210F.
If the unit goes into standby mode while running; the governor will
automatically idle the engine down and run at the minimum RPMs. This
prevents additional wear on the engine while it is in standby mode.
Engine oil pressure sensor will shutdown the unit if the engine oil pressure
becomes too low, preventing any further damage to the engine if the pressure
were to drop.

Murphy Oil Level

Maintainer

The Premo filtration device is a component that is in place to ensure the quality
of the engine oil. The device heats and filters the oil to the point that it does not
need to be changed as often, only the filters need to be changed.
The Murphy oil level maintainer ties together the engine oil pan and the engine
oil reservoir. The reservoir can hold up to 8 quarts of engine oil. Engine oil is
held at a constant level by the maintainer and oil from the reservoir is added to
the engine oil through the level maintainer if the engine oil begins to decrease.
The Murphy level maintainer also acts as a shutdown mechanism that will
shutdown the HGC if the engine oil drops below the mark on the leveler.

15

16

Power Pack

The power pack is the system that drives the pump.

The Power Pack Consists of:
Fuel Gas Inlet Assembly
Hydraulic Fluid Manifold Assembly
Electronic Control Box
Industrial Engine
Hydraulic Gear Pumps
Hydraulic Oil Cooler

Fuel Gas Inlet

Assembly

The first assembly is the Fuel Gas Inlet. It is located in the rear left corner of
the skid. As the name states, this is where the make-up and back-up gas enters
the power pack.
9

The back-up gas enters the assembly and joins the

make up gas. The gas then enters the reservoir
where it has to travel down and then up an inner
cylinder. This allows any liquids that might have
made it this far to drop out and collect at the
bottom of the reservoir. If any liquids remain
along with the gas it will cause the engine to run
poorly.

8
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Inlet Gas Scrubber Volume Tank

1/2" Quick Connector
-Make-Up Gas Inlet
1" Quick Connector
-Back-Up Gas Inlet
Pressure Regulator - 10 lb to oz
Needle Valve
Pressure Gauge 0-60 psi
Drain
Flapper Check Valve
Pressure Gauge 0-32 oz

If the gas sealing rings are sealing well and not

letting gas by, the make-up gas will travel through
the back-up hose and provide pressure to maintain
the pressure in the reservoir.

3
2
Make-up Back-up
Gas Inlet Gas Inlet

After the gas has traveled through the reservoir it exits and passes a pressure gauge. This gauge
indicates the need for any adjustments to the amount of gas coming from the vent stack and the inlet
assembly on the compressor. Since the engine needs only a small, consistent flow of gas to operate,
the amount of gas directed to the throttle body has to be decreased. The gas then goes through a
regulator where it has the pressure lowered to around 4-5 ounces, before exiting the assembly to the
throttle body.
17

The Hydraulic fluid manifold assembly is where the hydraulic oil comes
from the storage reservoir on the compressor and goes through the manifold
assembly to the pump. The manifold also routes the hydraulic fluid after it
has gone through the pump, before it travels to the directional controller.
There are three variations of the assembly, each designed and suited for
certain situations and climates.

Hydraulic Fluid
Manifold
Assembly

C
Pump 1 Hoses Black and Green
Pump 2 Hoses - Red and Blue

J
Q

D
K

P
H
B

A
P

G
E

A.
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.

Pump 1
Pump 2
Hi/Lo Murphy Pressure Gauge
Solenoid
Drain Plug
Temperature Sensor

G. Hydraulic Oil Inlet

H. Hydraulic Oil Outlet
J. Hydraulic Oil Volume Tank
K. Pump Plate
P. 5 psi to Crack Check Valve
Q. Mounting Bracket

The flow of the hydraulic oil will be directed into two pathways. The direction of flow
depends upon the action of the two pumps. The hydraulic oil is brought to the volume tank
through the 2 suction hose that connects at Point G. This volume tank and manifold are
responsible for routing the oil to the pumps and sending it to the directional controller through
the 1 high pressure hose at Point H.
18

Flow of Fluid Through

Pump 1 of Hydraulic Assembly

Hydraulic Fluid
Assembly
Continued

J
Q
Hose 10

K
2
3
Hose 2

1
G

Hose 1

Hose 9

A.
C.
E.
F.
G.

Pump1
Hi/Lo Murphy Pressure Gauge
Drain Plug
Temperature Sensor
Hydraulic Oil Inlet

H.
J.
K.
P.
Q.

Hydraulic Oil Outlet

Hydraulic Oil Volume Tank
Pump Plate
5 psi to Crack Check Valve
Mounting Bracket

With the back pressure of the hydraulic oil reservoir and the suction of the pump, fluid is drawn
through Point 1, where it flows through Hose 1 and travels to Pump 1. This fluid is forced out
and through Hose 2 where it reenters the manifold at Point 2.
The Fluid from Pump 1 then travels past a spring check valve before exiting the assembly to
Hose 10 at Point H. Also before the fluid exits, a small portion is diverted up to the Hi/Lo
Murphy gauge at Point 5.

19

Hydraulic Fluid
Assembly
Continued

Flow of Fluid Through

Pump 2 of Hydraulic Assembly

J
8

D
K

Hose 10

Hose 5

P
9

G
4
Hose 4

Hose 6

Hose 9

F
Hose 3

5
B.
C.
D.
E.
F.

Pump 2
Hi/Lo Murphy Pressure Gauge
Solenoid
Drain Plug
Temperature Sensor

G. Hydraulic Oil Inlet

H. Hydraulic Oil Outlet
J. Hydraulic Oil Volume Tank
K. Pump Plate
P. 5 psi to Crack Check Valve

The fluid enters Hose 3 at Point 4 where it travels to the oil cooler. The fluid from the oil cooler then
goes through Hose 4 and enters Pump 2. The pump forces it out through Hose 5 where it reenters the
manifold at Point 7. The tee at Point 7 forces the fluid either up to the solenoid or down to the
crossover Hose 6.
If the Hi/Lo Murphy pressure gauge is set to have only one pump running the compressor, then the
solenoid at Point D will remain open. With the solenoid open the fluid will take the path of least
resistance and flow through the solenoid where it returns to the volume tank at Point 8.
If the Hi/Lo Murphy pressure gauge is set to have both pumps running the compressor, then the
solenoid at Point D will open and close according to the signals from the Murphy gauge. The time
from when the needle touches the first contact, to when it hits the second contact, the solenoid will be
closed. While it is closed, the fluid from Pump 2 will be forced down through the crossover Hose 6.
The hydraulic oil from the crossover hose joins the fluid from Pump 1 at Point 9, this fluid then exits
the manifold through Hose 10 at Point H.
20

Hydraulic Fluid
Assembly
Continued

Flow Diagram Hydraulic Fluid Assembly

Hydraulic Fluid Enters the
Tank from the Hydraulic
Reservoir
Fluid Circulates within the
Tank

Fluid Exits the Tank

to a suction hose
going to Pump 1

Fluid exits the tank

to a suction hose
going to oil cooler

Fluid goes through

Pump 1 and enters
Assembly

Hydraulic Fluid exits the

assembly and goes to the
Directional Controller
Fluid passes
through a
check valve

Ball Valve
Closed

Ball Valve
Open

Fluid
travels
through the
oil cooler

Fluid
bypasses oil
cooler

Fluid goes through

Pump 2 and travels
to the Solenoid

Hi/Low is Set

Hi/Low is Not Set

Needle touches the

first contact

Solenoid Remains
Open

Joins the fluid from

Pump 1
The Solenoid
Closes
Pressure
Builds
The Fluid passes
through a check

The Fluid Pressure

increases and the
needle reaches second
contact

The Fluid travels

through the
Crossover Hose

21

Hi/Lo System
Version 3

Always set the

second contact first!
The contact on the
right is the second
contact.

As a default the solenoid on the Hi/Lo system is open. In the open position the
fluid from the second pump is directed back to the volume tank and circulates.
When the Hi/Lo system is set, it doesnt matter which stage the compressor is
on, the second pump will assist the first for the pressures set on the Murphy
gauge.
It is not recommended to set the Hi/Lo system if the discharge pressure is less
then 300 psi. If you have a low inlet and a low discharge pressure, the HGC
will short stroke if the Hi/Lo is set. This is caused by the inlet pressure not
being able to push the first stage all the way back before the second stage
finishes. Each time the piston goes back a little less until it short strokes. At
this point the HGC will go into standby mode.
The first pump is the pressure pump. It moves fluid to the compressor all the
time. When the second pump is assisting the first it becomes the volume pump.
It provides additional hydraulic fluid at lower pressures and speeds up the
compression strokes per minute if needed.

It is not required to run the second pump for the higher pressures, it only takes
longer for the first pump to reach the higher pressures and works a lot harder. So to
maintain your strokes per minute, you can engage the Hi/Lo system to increase the
fluid going to the compressor.

2500 PSI is the

Maximum setting
for the Hi/Lo

Caution! If you dont set the stopping point first, it means that
once the needle touches the first indicator and the second pump
starts assisting the first, it will not stop and has the potential to reach a
pressure that is too high, damaging the pump.

2000

1000

For example, if the first contact is set at 1000 psi and the second is set at
2000 psi. This means that when the needle contacts the first indicator,
the solenoid closes. The second pump will assist the first until the
pressure increases to the point where it hits the second contact. Once the
needle touches the second contact the solenoid will open back up until
the needle drops back and contacts the first indicator.

3000

4000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

5000

Starting Positions
Example of Settings

Pressure range that the

solenoid will remain closed.

2000

The Starting Point:

The first contact is the
indicator of what pressure
the solenoid closes at.
The solenoid will remain
closed until the needle
reaches the pressure that
the second contact is set
at.

1000

3000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

4000

5000

The Stopping Point:

Has to be set first. The
second contact is the
indicator that opens the
solenoid back up when
the needle makes contact.
This is only one typical
setting, where the contacts are
set depend on the discharge
pressure and how fast the
HGC runs with the Hi/Lo set.
22

Hi/Lo System
Version 4

As the default, the solenoid on the power pack hydraulic manifold, is set to be
open. In the open position, the fluid from the second pump is directed back to
the volume tank and circulates. The Hi/Lo system is controlled by the module
and Murphy pressure gauges in the compressor box.
In some cases you do not want to engage the Hi/Lo system if it will cause
the strokes per minute to increase over 9-10 spm.

Compressor Box
Top View

Hi/Lo Solenoid

The Stopping Point:

When the stage shifts the
needle makes contact and
the solenoid closes. It
stays closed until the
pressure builds and the
needle loses contact,
which is when the
solenoid opens.

It is not recommended to set the Hi/Lo system if the discharge pressure is less
then 300 psi. If you have a low inlet and a low discharge pressure, the HGC
will short stroke if the Hi/Lo is set. This is caused by the inlet pressure not
being able to push the first stage all the way back before the second stage
finishes. Each time the piston goes back a little less until it short strokes. At
this point the HGC will go into standby mode.
Instead of telling the solenoid to open and close depending on both contacts of
the Murphy gauge, the Hi/Lo now only needs the first contact to operate. If the
first contact is left in the starting position, the Hi/Lo will not be used. By setting
the first contact at a certain pressure will close the solenoid until the pressure
builds enough to lift the needle off of the contact and opening the solenoid. This
allows you to set different pressure points for Stage 1 and Stage 2.
Example of Settings
Stage 2

Stage 1
When contact is made it
shifts stages

2000

1000

3000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

2000

4000

Stopping
Point
Stage 1

5000

For example, if the Stage 1 Murphy has its contacts set for 500 and
3000 psi. This means the Hi/Lo will close and direct additional
hydraulic fluid to Stage 1 until the pressure gets above 500 psi where it
will open the Hi/Lo solenoid. This means from 500 to 3000 psi the
first pump is building the pressure until it reaches the second contact
where it changes to Stage 2. Now the Stage 2 Murphy is set for 1000
and 3000 psi. It will close the solenoid and send the second pump
fluid until it gets over 1000 psi where it opens the solenoid. From
1000 to 3000 psi, the first pump is building the pressure until it reaches
the second contact, switching back to Stage 1 where the process
repeats.

1000

3000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

4000

5000

Starting Position doesnt allow

the needle to touch the first
contact
This is only one typical setting,
where the contacts are set depend
on the discharge pressure and
how fast the HGC runs with the
Hi/Lo set.

23

The electronic control box is the brain of the power pack. From the control
box you can start and monitor the engine.

Control Box

Key Components inside the control box:

Relays
Speed Control Unit/Governor
Speed Adjuster
Gauges

Version 3

J
PUSH TO
START

HGC
ENGINE

RPM

LIGHTS

A. Start Button
B. Engine Run/Off Switch
C. Compressor Pump Switch On/Off
D. RPM Gauge
E. Engine Oil Pressure Gauge
F. Engine Temperature Gauge
G. Hydraulic Oil Temperature Gauge
H. Battery Voltage Gauge
J. Speed Adjuster
K. Engine Oil Pressure Override
M. Governor Idle Down Override Switch
N. Compressor Wire Connector
P. Lights Switch

D
COMPRESSOR

P
RPM

ENGINE OIL
PRESSURE

ENGINE
TEMPERATURE

HYDRAULIC OIL
TEMPERATURE

BATTERY
VOLTAGE

PERMIAN ENERGY
1260 S US HWY 385
ANDREWS, TX 79714

K
M

Version 4
RPM

T
E

Engine Panel
C. Compressor Pump Switch On/Off
E. Engine Oil Pressure Gauge
F. Engine Temperature Gauge
H. Battery Voltage Gauge
J. Speed Adjuster
M. Governor Idle Down Override Switch
Q. Ignition Switch
R. Tattle Tale Indicator
S. Emergency Shut Down Button
T. Oil Pressure Override Button
W. Conduit Connectors

Electrical Box

24

Relays

Version 3

The relays that are used are a general purpose electromechanical lift-off
type relay. They contain a sensing unit and the electric coil, which is
powered by DC current. When the applied current or voltage exceeds a
threshold value, the coil activates the armature. The armature controls
whether to open the closed contacts or to close the open contacts.
The electric coil generates a magnetic force when power is supplied, this
magnetic force activates the switch mechanism. In effect the relay is
transferring an action from one circuit to another.
Omron LY2 general purpose relay. 10 amp 8 Pin
Double pole double throw relays. There are three in
the control box, one connected to the shut down
devices. Another connected to the standby switches
and the third for the compressor switch.

Omron G7L general purpose relay. 30 amp double

pole double throw relays. One is connected to the
battery and supplies power to the rest of the system,
and one is connected to the cooling fans at the front of
the power pack.

Version 4
White-Rogers type 70 single pole normally open
DC power connector. Has a high current capacity
and isolated, grounded coils with a dust-resistant
case. This relay is connected to the power from
the battery and supplies power to the rest of the
system.

Magnecraft General Purpose Relay. 782 Ice Cube

Relay with a orange mechanical flag indicator.
The 15 amp double pole double throw relay
connects to the standby switches.

Indicator Reset Button

on Face of Engine
Panel

The tattletale has a face mounted reset button

that functions as a fault indicator. It is an
electrical load carrying device for the shutdown
devices. Magnetic switches operate basically as
a latching relay.

Tattletale Magnetic
Switch
25

MAX SPEED VR2

MIN SPEED VR1

Engine Speed
Control Unit/
Governor

A self contained preset speed control unit.

The governor is preprogrammed and designed
to not need adjustments. It has several
additional safety and performance features
built specifically for the HGC.
One feature is the idle down mechanism, the
governor is designed to keep the engine at a
low idle in the event it goes to standby. If you
are running the compressor and the engine is
working hard at a high rpm, if the unit goes to
standby you dont want the engine to continue
to run in this state. If this situation occurs, the
governor will bring the engine down to 1500
rpm until it is out of standby mode, it will then
increase the rpms to where it was previously
set.

Speed Adjustor

.25 Max

The Felsted Electronic Vernier (EV2) provides precise,

variable engine speed adjustment on electronically controlled
stationary engines.
The EV2 is easy to operate, even with gloves on. The knob is
located on the top of the electronic control box. The knob has
a 2 1/4" diameter and is easily identifiable. The EV2 provides
engine speed regulation and can be wide open throttle in seven
full turns. To increase the throttle you have to turn the knob, it
is built to prevent accidental overreving, in case the knob is
pulled it wont increase throttle. To increase the rpms you will
need to turn the knob counterclockwise and clockwise to
decrease it.
The EV2 is equipped with a quick shut down feature, which
allows to to quickly idle down the throttle by pushing the knob
down.

26

Oil Pressure
Override Button
Version 3

The oil pressure override button is located on the bottom left corner of the
electronic control box. The button is a override that allows you to bypass
the engine oil pressure sensor during start up.

Before starting the engine, it does not have any oil pressure. Without a bypass switch, the
regulator oil sensor thinks the pressure is too low and it will kill the engine.
When starting the engine, hold the override button down. Keep holding it down until the
engine oil pressure gauge needle is above the red mark on the gauge. The red line in the gauge
is the low oil pressure setting, if the pressure is below this mark, it will shut down the engine.
You will need to do this each time you start the engine.

Caution! Only hold down the engine start button for a couple of seconds. Once the
engine starts, only hold down the engine oil pressure override button. Do not hold
down the engine start button, beyond the initial engagement. Prolonged depression will burn
up the starter.
Bottom of the Electronic Control Box

Engine Oil Pressure

Override Button

Governor Idle Down

Override Switch

Compressor Cord
Connector

Governor Idle
Down Override
Switch Version 3

The design of the governor allows the engine to idle at 1500 rpm if the HGC
goes into standby mode while pumping.
The initial start up of the engine is in standby mode for the HGC, therefore if
you attempt to increase the rpm, the governor will keep the engine at 1500
rpm.

The governor idle down override switch is located on the bottom left corner of the electronic
control box, next to the engine oil pressure override button.
Once you have the engine running, flip the idle down override switch. This will bypass the
governor and allow you to increase the rpms before you start pumping.

Caution! Once you have the HGC pumping, make sure to flip the switch back. If the
switch is left in the override position, you are negating one of the safety features of the
HGC.
27

Oil Pressure
Override Button
Version 4

The engine oil pressure gauge has a built in semi-automatic lockout for startup
override. To start the engine you will need to press this button each time before
attempting to start the engine. This built in device holds the pointer away from the
contact on startup.
Once the engine is running, the pressure will build and exceed the set point. After
this happens the lockout is automatically disengages.

Engine Oil Pressure Gauge on

the Engine Panel

Engine Panel
Lockout Set
Button
For a more detailed description of the
component see the appendix.

Governor Idle
Down Override
Switch Version 4

Contact Limit
Contact Adjustment

The governor speed control is designed so that if the compressor goes into
standby mode while pumping, it will automatically decrease the idle speed
to the minimum speed. This means the engine will not continue running at a
faster speed wasting energy. This will possibly add to fuel savings and
engine longevity.
When first starting the engine you will need to put the switch in the off
position to be able to increase the RPMs before compressing. You notice
when you attempt to throttle up the engine using the speed controller and the
RPMs stay at the minimum speed.

Governor Idle Override Switch

Off Position

Caution! Once you have the HGC pumping,

make sure to flip the switch back. If the switch is
left in the override position, you are negating one of the
durability features of the HGC.

28

Pump

The pump is the heart of the HGC. It is responsible for the flow of hydraulic
oil from the reservoir to the compressor, and provides pressure that activates
the pistons.
Key Components that make up the pump:

Pump 2
Housing

Pump 1
Housing

Flywheel Adapter
Pump Adapter Plate
Pump
Housings
Seals
Gears
Each pump is a Geartek HD Series 2 section pump. Each section is typically a HD20 model
size, but each may be configured differently, based on which housing and gears being used.

For detailed specifications see the pump section in the Appendix for the Geartek manual that is
included.
Pump Adaptor Plate

Inlet

Bell Housing with

Flywheel Adaptor

Outlet

Hydraulic Hoses
Connected to the Pump
29

Hydraulic Oil
Cooler
Version 3 and 4

The hydraulic oil cooler is located at the front of the engine. The oil cooler will
have one of two configurations depending on which hydraulic manifold
assembly the power pack has.
The oil cooler is in place to cool and maintain the temperature of the hydraulic
oil. This is an essential component that provides stability to the HGCs
runability and safeguards the unit from possible damage.

The hydraulic manifold and the oil cooler are

connected by 1 1/4" hydraulic hoses. The oil
cooler also has additional 1 1/4" piping along
the top of the cooler. The piping is in place to
act as a bypass for the hydraulic oil if needed.

Views From Front of Power Pack

Version 3

The ball valve at the top of the oil cooler is in

place to determine which path the hydraulic oil
takes. If it is closed the fluid will be forced
through the oil cooler. If the ball valve is open;
the fluid will take the path of least resistance and
travel along the piping and bypass the oil cooler.
The cooler fans are connected to the hydraulic
oil temperature sensor. If the oil reaches a set
temperature the fans will come on and increase
the cooling of the hydraulic oil.

Inlet Side

Outlet Side

Version 4
The fans do not run continuously, they only
run when the temperature sensor is above the
set temperature of 150F.

Industrial GM
Engine

Vortec 5.7 L Engine : 8 Cylinder 350 cubic inches

Intake/exhaust manifolds & High Energy Ignition (HEI) are all
standard.
Hydraulic roller lifter camshaft is optimized for maximum
performance.
Composite front cover for noise reduction.
Nodular iron crankshaft for increased strength and durability.
High Energy Ignition (HEI) distributor and coil are standard.
Induction-hardened inlet valve seats and sintered powder metal
exhaust valve seat inserts for maximum durability.
World-class engine sealing system uses composite cylinder
head gaskets with steel cores, a one-piece rear main crankshaft
seal, a one-piece oil pan seal and molded rocker cover seals.
Positive inlet valve stem seals to control oil consumption.
30

Premo Filtration System

Protective steel cage
24 hour shut down timer (Optional)
Engine oil reservoir to replace used oil
Murphy Level Maintainer
Throttle Body

Engine
Accessories
Included on the
Power Pack

Premo Filtration
System

Vent allows evaporation

of liquid contaminants

Heating Chamber
heats oil to 195F
to evaporate liquid
contamenients

The treated
oil exits back
to the engine
oil pan

Wires providing
power to the
Premo

Oil enters from

the engine
High Efficiency Filter
(3 microns)

Oil from the engine is pushed through the hose and enters the Premo filtration device on the side.
There is a pressure sensor along this hose to monitor the normal operating pressure of the engine. The
ball valve along this hose before the Premo filtration device allows you to close the valve and bypass
the Premo if needed.
Oil enters the inlet port at the side under normal operating pressure. It is then channeled
down through the spin-on filter where solid contaminants such as carbon, soot, dirt
(silicon), wear metal particulate and any foreign solids are trapped. This filter contains a
breakthrough in filter media technology. It is a synthetic media with a ISO 4572 BETA
RATING of B3 = 75 (This Beta rating means that the filter traps 98.7% of all particles 3
microns or larger on each pass). Free of dirt and wear metal particles, the oil flows
through a metering jet that allows 4 to 5 gallons per hour to travel into the patented
evaporation chamber where it flows over an electrically heated surface in a thin film. The
dirt free oil is heated to 195 degrees where the fuel dilution, water and liquid
contaminants are evaporated and discharged through the upper vent tube. Completely
clean oil returns to the engine by gravity. The continuous repetition of this cycle keeps
your oil clean, increases the life of the engine.
(Source: www.premolube.com)
After the oil has gone through the Premo and is treated, it flows to the engine oil pan. The Premo
filtration device is used to extend the life of the engine oil.
31

24 Hour Shut
Down Timer
(Optional)

The shut down timer is an optional component that is built into the
electronic control box. The timer has a duration of up to 24 hours. Once
you to have the HGC operating correctly, you can set the timer for a
specified period of time. Once that period of time has passed, the HGC will
shut down. This means you could start the HGC, set the timer, then come
back the next day to check it and repeat the process.
To set the timer you will need to have the HGC running and turn the dial to
the amount of time you want, then flip the switch in the bottom right corner.
How to set the timer will be covered in the Maintenance Section.

Engine Oil
Reservoir

With the addition of the Premo filtration device, there should be little need
for the reservoir. The reservoir is used as a safety precaution for the
unlikely event that the oil runs low and needs to be refilled.
If the oil level on the Murphy level maintainer becomes low, the oil will
automatically flow from the reservoir through the Murphy level gauge
keeping the engine oil at a safe operational level.
The oil reservoir also acts as a means to possibly refill the engine with oil
after a oil change. It holds 8 quarts of fluid and has an easy to remove cap
for access to refill.
When in transit, shut the ball valve on the engine oil tank to prevent over
filling the engine.

Coolant Over Flow

Reservoir

The coolant over flow reservoir is located on the side of the radiator. This
container holds any coolant that flows out of the radiator as it heats up.
Normally coolant does not flow to the over flow reservoir, but it is in place
to catch any fluid that does exit the radiator.
The reservoir can be inspected by unscrewing the top. This is to check the
fluid level and for any foreign material that could be in there. The reservoir
can be detached from the mounting brackets and emptied or cleaned if
needed.

Throttle Body

The throttle body is located between the air filter and the intake manifold. It
controls the amount of air and gas reaching the engine. The engines are
designed to run off of natural gas, and this is regulated by the throttle body
as it enters the engine.
The throttle body is connected to the speed controller and governor. As you
increase the rpms, the throttle body will adjust and allow more fuel to flow
to the engine.
32

Murphy Level
Maintainer
Vent

Wiring to
Control Box
Oil from the
Engine Oil
Reservoir
The leveler needs to
be set to the correct
level before running
the engine. Once set,
the level will be
maintained.
Connects to Engine Oil Pan

Caution! Do not only rely on the sight glass of the Murphy level maintainer. Check
the oil level within the engine using the oil dipstick.

As you can see the level maintainer ties together several key areas: the engine oil pan, the
engine oil reservoir, and the control box.
This device maintains the oil level of the engine. Once adjusted it will replenish oil as needed
while the engine is running. This also provides an easy to view sight glass that displays the
level of the oil as the engine is running. A low-level switch is built in so that it will shut down
the engine if the supply oil is gone and the engine continues to use oil.
The maintainer operates through the use of a thumb valve. As the crankcase oil level drops the
float, the thumb valve drops and opens the valve. This allows oil to flow from the supply
reservoir, through the Murphy level maintainer, and into the crankcase.
Once the level maintainer is properly set, it is a safety device to help protect against possible
engine damage. If the leveler has been uneven for an extended period of time, in travel for
example, it may appear low when it is not. When this happens it may prevent you from starting
the engine. See the maintenance section on how to overcome this.

33

The compressor is the main system that receives, builds and discharges the gas
pressure.

Compressor

Front View
2

Discharge
Temperature
Gauge
Inter-Stage
Pressure Gauge

Outer cylinder
pressure guage

Inlet
Pressure
Gauge

Fluid Level
Gauge

1
3
Hydraulic
Temperature
Gauge

The Compressor consists of:

1.
2.
3.
4.

Gas Inlet Assembly

Vent Stack Assembly
Hydraulic Oil Reservoir
Directional Controller
Pressure
Gauge

5.
6.
7.

Yoke and Gauges

Compressor Cylinder
Compressor Box

Adjustable
Relief
Valve

Back View
2
Discharge Hose
Fitting Male JIC

Crossover
Hose

End Plate

Stage 1 Line

Bypass Line

Inlet
Cam Lock

Bypass
Filter

7
34

Gas Inlet
Assembly

The first area on the compressor to cover is the gas inlet assembly. This
controls where the gas flowing from the sand filter enters the HGC. The
majority of the gas enters the top cylinder where it pushes the stage 1 piston
back. A regulator is used to allow a small amount of gas to be split off and
go to the power pack to run the engine.

1.
2.
3.

Regulator 150 to 10 psi

Pressure Gauge 0 to 30 psi
2" Male Cam Lock Fitting

4.
5.
6.

Exit to the Compressor

Pressure Sensor
Make-up Gas Hose
4

5
1
Inlet from Sand
Filter

Exit to Make-up
Gas hose
6

The vent stack allows any excess gas to exit the HGC without
causing any pressure buildup problems while the unit is running or
in standby.

Vent Stack
1.
2.
3.
4.

Adjustable Relief Valve

Pressure Gauge 0-30 psi
Demister Material
Back-Up Gas Hose

Vented Gas

The vent stack is also the source of the back-up gas. The vent
stack diverts any extra gas from the hydraulic reservoir to the gas
inlet on the power pack for a fuel source.

The vent stack can be adjusted using the adjustable

pressure relief valve. The pressure is set at 5-7 psi.
Cross Section
View

3
Back-up
gas hose
3
4

Hydraulic Oil
Reservoir
Hydraulic Oil
Reservoir

See Maintenance section on proper adjusting

procedure.
If the rings are sealing well, gas from the make-up
gas on the power pack may enter the vent stack and
maintain the pressure in the reservoir.
When gas enters the compressor it will begin to
build pressure, the vent stack allows the compressor
to maintain a certain internal pressure to facilitate
the movement of the hydraulic fluid. This pressure
also forces fluid over to the power pack before
initial start up, this primes the pump.
The demister material causes the oil vapors to
coalesce and the droplets will fall back into the
reservoir.
35

Hydraulic Oil
Reservoir

The hydraulic oil reservoir is part of the skid below the compressor cylinder.
The reservoir stores and accumulates the hydraulic oil when the machine is
not running. The reservoir is mounted to the skid at a angle to assist the flow
of the hydraulic oil.

The filter section end of the reservior is opposite the directioanl controller. A divider seperates
the filter section and reservoir section. The divider is also where one end of the filters is held
in place. At the high side of the reservoir there is a divider inside that holds one end of the
filters. This divider also acts as a barrier that allows the hydraulic fluid to stay at a high enough
level to pass through the filters. The filters in the reservoir are the same type that are in the
sand filter.
Hydraulic fluid enters through the hose coming off of the outer cylinder located near stage 1
and enters the reservoir below the filters. The fluid then has to pass through the filters before it
can travel into the reservoir section. The pass through tube is angled up so that the fluid in the
reservoir section fills from the top and maintains a certain level.
The reservoir has the vent stack attached to it. There is an amount of gas that will slip by the
rings and mix in with the hydraulic oil and accumulate in the reservoir. The gas disengages
from the hydraulic oil and is then used as back-up gas or vented out the vent stack. The gas
venting acts as a pressure relief valve to protect the stability of the hydraulic reservoir.
Reservoir Section
Filter Section
Total Hydraulic Oil

1.
2.
3.
4.

End Plate
Fill point from Outer Cylinder
Vent Stack
Drain Valve

125-130 gal
35-40 gal
160-170 gallons

5.
6.
7.
8.

Hydraulic
Oil Enters
Reservoir

Temperature Sensor
Level Sensor
Exit to Suction Hose
Hydraulic Filters

1
3

Reservoir Section
8
7
6

Hydraulic Oil Level

Filter
Section

Divider
Within the filter section of the
reservoir, there are two filters.
They sit side by side and are held
in place by the the end plate and
the divider.
36

Bypass Filter and

Housing

The bypass filter and housing are located along the hydraulic reservoir on
the stage 1 side. The housing is attached to the reservoir and the 1" bypass
fluid line.

There are two 1" lines that run nearly the length of the compressor. The bypass line is the
bottom one. This line is where the fluid that slips past the rings gets forced out when the
pistons get pushed back to their starting positions. The fluid can be a combination of hydraulic
oil and gas, or just either one. The fluid that enters the line at either end will then pass through
the bypass filter before going back to the hydraulic oil reservoir.

Bypass Oil
from Stage 1

Bypass Oil
from Stage 2

The filter housing and the filter, filter the gas

and oil from the inside to the outside of the
filter.
The fluid enters the 1" line at both ends of the compressor and gets forced down to the bypass
filter. The housing has two pressure gauges mounted to the inlet and outlet sides of the filter.
This allows you to see any difference between the pressures and determine if the filter needs to
be changed.
The pressure of the bypass line varies from 0-20 psi. The pressure fluctuates
because the fluid is not continuously flowing through the line. The fluid is
only pushed when the pistons are being pushed back to their starting
positions.

After the bypass fluid gets filtered it goes through a check before going into the hydraulic oil
reservoir. This check prevents fluid from leaving the hydraulic reservoir and traveling back
through the bypass filter.
37

38

Directional
Controller Fluid
Routes

At any given time, the fluid going through the directional controller can be
flowing in several directions. The following is a simplified representation of
the different paths the fluid takes during the compressor stages.

Standby
Stage 1

Stage 2
Outer
Cylinder

Once the compressor starts pumping, the fluid

goes to Stage 1, and a small amount goes to
the Stage 1 Murphy pressure gauge in the
Murphy box.

Inlet

Stage 1 - Compressing
Stage 1

While in Standby mode with the engine idling,

most of the hydraulic fluid gets diverted to the
outer cylinder. Some of the fluid also goes to
Stage 1, and Stage 2, although it is not enough
to move the pistons. This ensures that all of
the hydraulic hoses and lines are primed
before you begin pumping.

Stage 2
Outer
Cylinder

Stage 1
Murphy

Inlet

Stage 2 - Compressing
Stage 1
Outer
Cylinder

Stage 2
Murphy

At the same time as the Stage 1 piston pushes

forward, the second stage piston gets pushed
back. This forces any hydraulics in the stage 2
ram tube back through the hose to the
directional controller. This fluid from stage 2
is routed to the outer cylinder.
When the Stage 1 Murphy pressure gauge trips
the solenoid, the directional controller sends
the fluid coming from the pump to Stage 2.
Most of this fluid begins filling the second
stage ram tube and a small amount goes to the
Stage 2 Murphy pressure gauge in the Murphy
box.
While the Stage 2 piston is compressing the
gas, the inlet gas is pushing the first stage
piston back. This forces the fluid from the
stage 1 ram tube back through the 1" line to
the directional controller. The fluid coming
back from Stage 1 gets routed to the outer
cylinder.
This constant flow of hydraulics to the outer
cylinder is part of the built in cooling features
of the HGC.

Inlet
39

Solenoid

The solenoid is in charge of which direction the fluid goes. The solenoid is
electrically connected to the the Murphy pressure gauges. The gauges
determine when the solenoid switches direction.
The solenoid consists of three main pieces, a single center housing and two
electromagnetic ends. The solenoid functions by moving a rod in either
direction through the use of magnets. When power is supplied through one
of the wires, the end will magnetize and pull the rod in that direction.
On the back side of solenoid there are four holes that line up with the
directional controller. When the solenoid changes directions, the rod inside
moves and allows the fluid to pass through different holes. The direction of
flow correspond to the stages of the compressor.
The solenoid is held to the
directional controller by 4
screws

End Caps

Parts of the Solenoid

Magnetic Ends

Center Housing
Wire Connectors

The solenoid is connected to the Murphy pressure gauges on the compressor by the wires that
are attached to the magnetic ends. The solenoid knows when to change stages based off of the
signal that is sent by the pressure gauges. When the HGC is pumping, the Murphy gauges are
reading the pressure from the directional controller, and when the pressure builds to the set
amount, the pressure gauge sends a signal to the solenoid. This provides power to the magnetic
end which pulls the rod and opens up the other pathway for the hydraulic oil.

Indicator
Light

When the solenoid is operating correctly, indicator lights

correspond to a particular stage of compression. When on
stage 1, the bottom connector is on. During stage 2, the top
light is on. If the unit is in standby, or no power is reaching
the compressor, neither light will be on.
How to remove and inspect the solenoid is covered in the
Maintenance section.

40

Relief Valve
Top of Directional Controller

The relief valve is a safety measure built into the directional

controller. It is designed to allow the directional controller to
remain at a safe operating pressure. The relief valve is set to a
maximum pressure, if that pressure is met, the relief valve opens
and forces the fluid to the outer cylinder.
To adjust the valve, you loosen the lock collar and use an allen
wrench to either tighten or back off the screw. To set the relief
valve you use the Murphy gauges on the compressor as a guide to
how much pressure you have the relief valve set for. If you have
it all the way backed off, it wont build any pressure. As you
tighten it down, the pressure should build on the gauge till you
get it to the max pressure you want.
For a more detailed description of how to set the relief valve,
refer to the Maintenance section of the manual.
The valve will come preset and should not need any adjustment
baring any unforeseen circumstance

Flow Poppet
The differential pressure valves or poppets are
used to set how much fluid is going through a
given area of the directional controller. There is
a poppet for each stage of the compressor. So
by adjusting one or the other you can set each
stage independently if needed.
While the compressor is pumping, when one
piston pushes forward, it forces the other piston
back. When the piston ram moves back, it forces
the fluid out of the ram tube and back through the
hydraulic hose to the directional controller. This
fluid being pushed back to the directional
controller gets directed to the outer cylinder. The
flow poppets control how much and how fast the
fluid passes through the directional controller.

Stage 1

Stage 2

The poppets used to adjust

the amount of flow

When you hear either piston hitting harder than usual, you will need to adjust the corresponding poppet.
These are adjusted by loosening the lock collar and using an allen wrench to turn the set screw.
Note: If you adjust these when the hydraulic oil is warm, it will need to be readjusted before your next
use. As the hydraulic oil heats up, it will become less viscous and will flow easier. If you dont readjust
the poppets at start up when the fluid is cooler, it wont flow through the directional controller as well as it
should.
41

Gas Manifold
Yoke
Gas
Temperature
Gauge
Inter-Stage
Pressure Gauge

The gas manifold yoke is one of the critical main components of

the compressor. It is the key piece that ties together Stage 1 and
Stage 2. It provides the checks and pathways for the gas within
the compressor.
The yoke has several parts that are vital to the operation of the
HGC. Without the yoke, the two compressor stages would not be
able to work together in unison. At the base of the yoke is the
gas inlet to the compressor. The gas manifold yoke diverts this
gas to Stage 1; the pressure gauge at the bottom of the yoke reads
the inlet gas pressure.

Inlet Gas
Pressure Gauge
Inlet Gas
Pressure Switch

Inlet gas pressure switch will

keep the HGC in standby if
the inlet gas pressure is not
high enough.
Inlet Gas Pressure:
Minimum: 25 psi
Maximum: 125 psi

If needed all of the gauges along the gas manifold yoke can be turned around or placed on the opposite
side of the compressor. The internal pathways of the yoke allow for the inter-stage pressure gauge gauge
to be located on either or both sides. The yoke itself has to face a certain way, but the gauge can be
transferred to either side. The inlet pressure gauge and the gas temperature gauges can be rotated around
to face either direction.
Inter-Stage Pressure Gauge
At the middle of the yoke the gas is able to transfer from Stage 1 to
Stage 2. The pressure gauge located in the middle of the yoke reads
the pressure within the compressor. During Stage 1 it will show
Stage 1 pressure and vice versa for Stage 2.
On the very first stroke of the HGC, this gauge will tell us the
resistance pressure. This pressure Can be from 0-1200 psi; you will
see on the first stroke how much pressure you are pumping against.
The discharge pressure will be around 10-20 psi higher than the
gauge on the well head. This is because the HGC only does enough
to overcome what it is pumping against. This allows for a gradual
increase of pressure.

Gas Temperature Gauge

At the top of the gas manifold yoke is where the gas exits the
compressor through the discharge hose. Connected to the retainer is
the gas discharge temperature gauge. This is a switchgage gauge that
will shutdown the unit if the gas temperature within the compressor
reaches the set temperature. The rings on the pistons have a max
working temperature of 400F; beyond this they begin to physically
and chemically deteriorate. The temperature gauge is set to
shutdown the HGC at 400F.
42

Gas Manifold
Yoke Continued

The gas manifold yoke is the mechanism that ties together both stages of the
compressor. It provides the passageways and directional check for the
movement from inlet, inter-stage, and outlet stages of the compressor.

At the inlet and outlet ports of the yoke, the ball checks are held in place by the retainers. The
retainers are special pieces that are specially machined to hold and seal the ball checks in place.

Ball Checks

There are three ball checks

within the yoke. These are
essential pieces that allow
the HGC to function.
Internal pathways for
the gas to transfer
stages and enter or
exit the yoke.
Stage 1 Side

Stage 2 Side

The inlet and outlet retainers, along with the balls, and seats, are slightly different and made to
go in a specific place. Do not switch them around, they will not work properly if in the wrong
position.
Each check will have a ball, seat, and a gasket. The middle seat is the only one that screws into
place.
Refer to the Maintenance section for proper procedure on removing and installing the gas
manifold yoke.
How the Yoke
Works

Starts with Gas Entering Stage 1

Stage 2 High Side

B. The middle check

should be in a open or
neutral position. If
stage 2 is compressing
it will be closed. If
resistance pressure is
low it will be open.

Stage 1 Low Side

C
B

C. The back pressure

from what you are
pumping into will
keep the top ball
check down. Keeping
any gas from
reentering the
compressor.

Flow of Gas

A. Inlet gas pushes the

bottom ball check up and
begins filling Stage 1. As the
gas enters, it pushes the first
stage piston back.
43

Stage 1 Builds Pressure

How the Yoke

Works Continued
Stage 2 High Side

B. As the first stage

builds pressure, it pushes
gas from stage 1 side to
stage 2. When it does
this it forces the middle
ball check over allowing
gas to pass by and enter
Stage 2.

Stage 1 Low Side

C

C. The back pressure

from what you are
pumping into should still
be high enough to hold
the top ball check down.
This will keep gas from
entering the compressor.

A. The first stage cylinder fills up with gas

Flow of Gas

and the hydraulics begin building pressure by

compressing. As it does this, it pushes the
bottom ball check down. Sealing gas from
exiting or entering the compressor.

Note: In certain situations, there is little or no back pressure to keep the top ball check down. For
example if you start with little or no casing pressure. As Stage 1 builds pressure and forces the gas
into Stage 2, the gas will already be enough pressure to open the ball check and go down the
casing. If this is the case, the gas will in a sense bypass Stage 2. So as you watch the inter-stage
pressure gauge, it will show Stage 1 at the same pressure or slightly higher than Stage 2.
Stage 1 Finished Stage 2 Builds Pressure
C. When the second stage reaches a pressure that is usually
around 10-15 psi higher than what you are pumping into, the ball
valve will move up and allow the gas to exit to the discharge hose.
Stage 2 High Side

Stage 1 Low Side

C

B. As Stage 2 builds
pressure it will force
the middle ball check
over and keeps the gas
from returning back to
Stage 1.

A. With the gas having

been pushed into Stage
2, the inlet gas will
begin filling Stage 1,
pushing the piston back
to repeat the process.

Flow of Gas
44

Compressor
Cylinder

1
4

2
The Compressor Cylinder consists of 4 main components:
1.
2.
3.
4.

Outer Cylinders
Inner Cylinders
Stage 1 Piston Assembly
Stage 2 Piston Assembly

The two compressor cylinders are joined together by the yoke. This section will
focus on the inner and outer cylinder.

1"

Outer Cylinder
The outer cylinder is 2" larger in diameter than
the inner cylinder. The outer cylinder has a 12"
diameter where the inner cylinder has a 10"
diameter. This 1" space between the two is
where hydraulic oil is circulated to cool the
inner cylinder and hydraulic oil while the HGC
is running. While the HGC is in Standby, this is
where the fluid gets pumped to primarily.

Outer
Cylinder

Inner
Cylinder

How hydraulic oil enters and exits the outer cylinder:

Hydraulic oil enters and exits at the bottom of the outer cylinder on both ends. The
stage 2 side is where the hydraulic oil enters the outer cylinder from the directional
controller. The fluid then travels through the crossover hose and will exit the outer
cylinder on the stage 1 side, where it drains back into the reservoir and is filtered.
Stage 2 Side
Hydraulic oil is
being pushed
from the
directional
controller to the
outer cylinder.

Enters

Exits to Reservoir
Stage 1 Side
The hydraulic
oil flows from
the outer
cylinder down to
the reservoir.
45

Outer Cylinder
Continued

Since the HGC compressor cylinder is two pieces joined at the yoke, the
hydraulic oil needs a way to get from the inlet side to the exit side. On top
of the outer cylinder, at the yoke, there is a crossover hose that connects both
sides and allows hydraulic oil to transfer from the stage 2 side to the stage 1
side within the outer cylinder.

Top View

Inner Cylinder

Side View

The inner cylinder is where the pistons compress the gas. The cylinders are
DM honed pipe. The inside surface of the inner cylinder needs to be as
smooth as possible. If not it has the potential to damage the rings on the gas
piston head.
When compressing the gas, due to high ratios of pressure, the inner cylinder
can get rather hot. The outer cylinder is designed to dissipate the heat off of
the inner cylinder while maintaining hydraulic fluid temperature.
Heat Tolerances of up to 375F the rings begin to break down at 415F

The stage 1 and stage 2

cylinders are joined at the
yoke and the inner cylinders
are several inches longer
than the outer cylinder.

Gasket

Sealing Plate

Difference in length between

the inner and outer cylinders

The inner and outer cylinders are sealed and connected by a gasket and the sealing plate. A 3/8"
gap between the inner and outer cylinder is there for the gasket to slide into. As you tighten
down the sealing plate, it will force the gasket into place and seal the two cylinders.
46

Piston Assembly

The piston assembly is comprised of the piston, ram tube, and rings. The
piston ram tube bolts to the end plate on the respective ends of the compressor.
The ram slides inside the ram tube along the rider bands on the ram and inside
the centralizer.
Stage 1 and 2 piston assemblies are the same other than dimensions. They
are assembled the same way on both sides with the same pieces, they only
differ in size. The HGC 100 and 200 will also have different size pistons
compared to each other.

Wiper Band Sealing Rings

Rider Band

Sealing Rings
Rider Band

Rider Band
3
4

Metal Rings
5
Metal Ring

6
1.
2.
3.
4.

Ram Tube
Centralizing Collar
Impact Dampener - Bullet
Piston Ram

5.
6.
7.

Hydraulic Piston Head

Gas Piston Head
Catcher - Choke
Bolts to the
End Plate

1
7
2
The Piston is made up of 4 pieces that screw together. The pieces are the hydraulic piston
head, the impact dampener, the piston ram, and gas piston head. If one of the pieces happens to
fail, you will be able to screw in a replacement part, and reuse the good pieces.
The pieces are made out of aluminum, that are machined to specifications. The grooves in the
piston that the rings and bands fit in, need to be as exact as possible. If they are off at all,
hydraulic fluid or gas can slip by and can lead to decreased productivity or even damaging the
piston. On the hydraulic end, if there are imperfections in the sides of the groove, it can lead to
the the failure of the rings, due to the fluid getting past and exerting pressures where it
shouldnt.
47

48

Bands and Rings

There are two ends of the piston ram that have bands and rings on them.
The piston head is the end that pushes and seals the gas within the inner
cylinder. The ram end is the end that is pushed by and seals the hydraulic
fluid.

The rings and bands on the piston head will be the same size for both stages. On each
piston head there will be 1 wiper band, 2 sealing rings and 1 rider band. The wiper band
will have a metal ring underneath it. The sealing rings are two pieces that connect together
and have to go a certain direction.
Gas Piston Head Rider Band

A pair of the gas sealing rings

Ring
L-shaped
ring

Rider Band
slot
Sealing
Rings
Wiper Band

Gas Piston Head

The piston ram will have 1 rider band and 3 sealing rings on them. Each of the sealing rings
are two pieces that snap together around the piston ram. Each of the sealing rings will also
have a metal ring underneath them.
The piston rams for stage 1 and stage 2 will be different. The stage 2 side is twice the diameter
of stage 1.

Stage 2 Ring
Stage 1 Ring
Stage 2
Rider Band

Each of the rings will

have a metal ring
underneath them
Hydraulic End
of Piston Ram
49

Bands and Rings

Continued

Gas Piston
Heads

Rider Bands:
Each stage has three sets of rider bands. One is located on the hydraulic piston
head and the other is placed within the centralizer. It is between the centralizer
and the ram tube. The rider band on the hydraulic piston head is slightly larger
than the one in the centralizer. The third rider band is on the the gas piston head
closest to the ram tube.
Hydraulic Piston Heads
Stage 1
Stage 2
One on
each stage

Stage 1

Stage 2

Carbon Filled
Teflon

Square Ring

Brass Molly

L-Shaped
Ring

Two on each stage

Inside
Centralizer

Wiper Bands:
There is one wiper band on each stage. The wiper
bands are located in the last position away from
the ram tube, on the gas piston head.

Gas Sealing Rings:

There are two sets of sealing rings on the gas piston
head of each stage. Each set consist of the L-shaped
piece and the square ring. Each piece will have a pin
or hole to line the two pieces together. The openings
of the two should not line up together; they should be
offset. These rings are located in the middle two
grooves of the gas piston head.

Hydraulic Sealing Rings:

There are three sets of sealing rings on each stage of
the hydraulic piston head. Each set consists of a
metal ring and two halves of the ring. The metal rings
go between the hydraulic piston head and the rings.
Each ring will be cut on the ends so that the two
pieces will snap together. There is a small pin on the
rings that has to line up with the cut out section of the
metal rings. The sealing rings are located in the three
grooves of the hydraulic piston head behind the rider
band.

Stage 1

Stage 2

A metal ring goes

underneath each
set of rings:
3 per stage

Each piece of the rings has

a S cut on the ends that
allow it to snap together.
Brass Molly

50

Bands and Rings

Continued

Rider Bands:
The rider bands are made out of a carbon filled teflon material and are designed
to withstand temperatures up to 375F. They begin to breakdown above that
temperature. All three rider bands on each assembly serve the same purpose,
they differ only in dimensions.

The rider band within the centralizer collar is the surface that the piston ram slides on as it extends out
of the ram tube.
The rider bands on the gas and hydraulic piston heads are the surface that is the piston slides on as it is
being pushed back to its starting position.
There are three rider bands on each piston assembly. There is one on the gas piston head, one on
the hydraulic end of the ram, and one inside the centralizer. Each one is a different size than the
others. The stage 1 and stage 2 rider bands on the ram will be different as well. They all serve the
same purpose though.
The rider bands are as the name implies, what the piston rides on as it moves within the cylinder. The
one on the piston head, slides along the inside of the inner cylinder. The rider band inside the
centralizer is what the piston ram slides on as it extends out of the ram tube. The last rider band is on
the hydraulic end of the ram and it slides along the inside of the piston cylinder. The rider band in the
centralizer is stationary, the other two move back and forth with the piston.
Wiper Bands:
The wiper band is located at the front of the gas piston head. As the name implies, the wiper bands
function is to clear or wipe the inner cylinder of any foreign material before it gets to the sealing rings.
As the piston extends and is compressing the gas, the wiper band is forcing any debris or material to
the front toward the yoke to clear the cylinder for the sealing rings. The likelihood that anything will
be introduced to the inner cylinder through the gas is unlikely. The wiper band is a precaution to keep
the sealing rings clear, incase something managed to make it into the cylinder.
If there were material in the inner cylinder it could get into the sealing rings and cause them not to
seal, or it could grind against the sealing rings and cause them to get tore up. If they are damaged they
will not seal the gas.
Each wiper band will have a metal ring underneath it. Since the wiper band is only on the piston head,
they all are the same size. But there is a difference between the wiper band on stage 1 and stage 2
sides.
The wiper band on stage 2 is a brass molly band instead of the carbon filled teflon. It is designed to
dissipate heat better than the carbon filled teflon. You can distinguish between the two types by their
color. The carbon filled teflon is black, where brass molly is a bronze color.
Sealing Rings:
There are two types of sealing rings, one type is on the gas piston head and the other is on the
hydraulic piston head. The sealing rings are in place to seal and keep either the gas or hydraulics from
passing by the piston head.
51

Bands and Rings

Continued

Gas Sealing Rings

The gas sealing rings consist of two pieces that fit together. The inner ring is L
shaped and made from carbon filled Teflon. The outer ring is square shaped and
is made out of carbon filled Teflon or Ryton. The Ryton rings go on the stage 2 side of the
compressor. The Ryton has a higher maximum temperature. The carbon filled Teflon will begin to
breakdown at 375F, where the Ryton will operate until 425F.
The gas sealing rings fit together a certain way and have to go on the piston head a specific way. The
square piece will have a pin set into it, this pin has to fit into the small hole on the L shaped piece.
There are five rings on each assembly, two on the piston head and three on the hydraulic end. Each
one will consist of two pieces that fit together a certain way. The two on the piston head will have a
pin and hole that keep them lined up correctly. The three on the hydraulic end of the ram will have a
number of dots that have to line up together and they also correspond to the position on the ram that
the rings go. The three on the hydraulic end will also have a metal band underneath them.
Hydraulic Sealing Rings
The hydraulic sealing rings are made out of PEEK, each ring has two step cuts, the two pieces slide
together around the hydraulic piston head. Each of the hydraulic sealing rings will have a metal
expander ring underneath them.
Also each sealing ring pair will have a number of dots on each piece. The dots correspond to which
position they go into on the hydraulic piston head. The dots also have to line up across from each
other when the rings are placed on the piston head.

Sealing
Rings

Rider
Band

Gas Piston Head

Piston
Ram

Inner Cylinder

Rider
Band

Sealing
Rings

Hydraulic Piston Head

Hydraulic Fluid

Wiper
Band

Hydraulics Fill the

Piston Ram

Gas Being Compressed

Cross Section View of Piston Heads - Not Drawn to Scale

Ram Tube

52

Compressor Box

In this manual, the box on the compressor that holds the two Murphy
pressure gauges, will be referred to as the Compressor Box. The box is
located near the directional controller between the reservoir and the
compressor cylinder.
Contents of the Compressor Box:

Water tight housing

for the Murphy
gauges and the wiring

Stage 1 and 2 Murphy pressure gauges

Control Box Connections
Hydraulic Hoses
Pulsation Dampeners
Directional Controller Relay Box or
Module

The Murphy pressure gauges are connected to the directional controller through
1/4" stainless steel tubing that run along the top of the reservoir. Each gauge is
associated with one stage of the compressor. The Murphy gauge that is on the
right side of the box shows the pressure of the hydraulics of stage 1. The gauge
on the left side of the box to display the pressure of the hydraulics, of stage 2.

Max Setting
3400 psi
Typical Setting
1500 3000 psi

The Murphy pressure gauges are also connected to the wires going to the
solenoid on the directional controller. The Murphys read the hydraulic
pressures. When the pressure of the stage associated with the gauge reaches a
preset pressure, the Murphy gauge sends a signal to the solenoid to change
directions and send hydraulics to the other stage.

Warning! Always have the contacts set on the Murphy gauges before
you begin pumping. If they are not set the solenoid will not transfer
stages and the relief valve on the directional controller will send fluid to the
outer cylinder. It will continue to pump and maintain this maxed out pressure
and will not change stages. This would put a lot of stress on the engine and the
pump.

The pulsation dampeners are placed before the gauges to act as dampeners to
prevent the gauges from getting hit as hard by the hydraulics each time the
directional controller switches stages. They are usually closed slightly to restrict
and slow the hydraulics entering the gauges.

Pulsation
Dampeners

The compressor box also contains the wiring that connects the compressor to the
electronic control box on the power pack. This is a single cord that runs from
the compressor box, and it screws into the control box. The wires in that cord
tie together the gauges and relays within the control box, as well as the sensors
and gauges on the compressor.

53

Directional
Controller Relay
Box Version 3

The directional controller relay box is the relay associated with the
solenoid on the directional controller. The relay box will be located
inside the compressor box.
The relay box is associated with the solenoid on the directional
controller. The relay box ties together the Murphy pressure gauges
and the directional controller solenoid. The relay box gets a signal
from the pressure gauge, this activates the relays inside the box,
which tell the solenoid which stage it should be on.

Internals of Relay Box

The relay box is more stable and durable than the ice cube relays.
Within the relay box are solid state micro relays and other
electronics. With the nature of the compressor and this relay
working a lot harder then the others, a more reliable component
needed to be used.
Hi/Lo Relay Box
Version 3

Hi/Lo Relay Box

The Hi/Lo relay box is the relay associated with the solenoid on the
hydraulic manifold on the power pack. The relay box will be located
inside the control box.
This board controls when the solenoid opens and closes. Determining
when the fluid from the second pump is used. The solid state relay gets
its signals form the Murphy pressure gauge on the power pack.
The solenoid is normally open but when the Murphy is set, the relay box
tells it when to open and close.

Hi/Lo Relay Board

Module Version 4

The module takes the place of both the directional controller relay box
and the hi/lo relay box. The module does the same switching as both
boxes. It controls the switching of the directional controller solenoid and
the hi/lo solenoid.
This module uses light diodes instead of mechanical switches and has a
much longer durability and is more reliable.
The module is located in the compressor box and is on unit #1006 and
numbers #1009-1013.

54

HGC Connections
Connecting to the
Wellhead

The compressor connects to the wellhead through a 1" high pressure, high
temperature steel braided hose.

Typical fittings needed to connect the hose:

Male 1" NPT to Male JIC
High Pressure/ Temp Ball Valve

Discharge hose may also be

insulted for increased heat
transfer to the wellhead.
This set up could be connected to the
casing, tubing, or gas line depending
on the application.

Sand Filter

The sand filter is connected to the gas line and the compressor by two hoses,
both have a male and female cam lock fitting on each end. The inlet on the
side of the sand filter connects to the gas line. The outlet of the sand filter is
on the top, and connects to the gas inlet on the compressor.

Gas Line

Gas Inlet on
Compressor

Drain Valve
In certain situations depending on the inlet gas,
you may not need a sand filter. Although it is
recommended to use a sand filter with all
applications as a precaution.

Inlet from Gas

Source

Sand Filter needs to stand upright as shown. This allows any liquids to separate and
collect, which can be drained through a valve at the bottom of the sand filter.
55

Engine Fuel
Hoses

The fuel gas that runs the engine is feed to the power pack by two hoses.
They are the make-up and back-up gas hoses. Both hoses have quick
connects on both ends.
Vent Stack

Make-Up Gas Hose

Back-Up
Gas Hose

Inlet Gas Assembly on Compressor

The engine only needs a few ounces of gas pressure to run. The gas is
supplied by taking a small amount from the inlet on the compressor
and a small amount of the bypass gas from the vent stack.
The amount provided by each can be controlled independently of each
other. If needed, you can run the engine with either one of the fuel
sources. Each has a pressure gauge associated with them and they
allow you to determine how much from each is going to the power
pack. Adjusting the amounts of make-up and back-up gas is covered
in the maintenance section of the manual.

Inlet Gas Assembly on

the Power Pack

The make-up gas hose connects the inlet gas assembly on the compressor to the power pack. It is a 1/2"
hose, that is 10 feet long.
The back-up gas hose connects the bypass gas from the vent stack to the power pack. It is a 1" hose that is
10 feet long.
Hydraulic Hoses

Compressor

There are two main hydraulic hoses that go from the power pack to the compressor.
Both are connected to the compressor and have quick connects at the power pack.
The 2" suction hose connects the hydraulic oil reservoir on the compressor to the
inlet on the power pack. The 1 1/4" hose connects the outlet of the power pack to
the inlet on the directional controller.
Power Pack
Inlet

Outlet
Outlet
Inlet
Before connecting the
hoses, any debris needs to
be removed so it doesnt go
straight to the pump.

Both ends of the quick connects

should be covered while traveling
or when disconnected. Dust caps
will be on the hoses

Place a rag under the quick

connects, a small amount of
hydraulic oil will come out
when connecting them.
56

57

Detailed Checklist Version 3

Make sure that the

compressor is level on the
trailer

Put a level on the top of

the compressor, and
adjust the trailer so it is
level

Check inlet gas for liquids

Connect Hydraulic hoses

Power Pack

Compressor

Quick connects are on the

power pack side
Be sure to clean the fittings,
dirt can affect how well the
quick connect seals. Also
debris at this point will travel
directly to the pump.

Power Pack
Inlet

Outlet

Inlet

Outlet

Sand Filter
Inlet gas to the
Compressor
Connect gas hoses to Sand
Filter and Compressor
Cam locks on both ends, female
on the sand filter to male on the
compressor.

Inlet from the

gas source

Inlet Gas Scrubber

on the Power Pack

Make sure that the make-up and

back-up gas hoses are hooked up
to the gas inlet going to the
engine.
Quick connects are on both hoses, on
the power pack.
Make-up gas is 1/2" hose and fittings
Back-up gas is 1" hose and fittings

Back-up
Gas
Make-up
Gas

58

Control Box
Wiring goes from
compressor to the
electronic control box

Make sure that the wiring

going from the compressor to
the control box is connected.

Make sure that the discharge

hose is connected to both the
compressor and the wellsite
connection. The discharge
hose is a 1" steel braided
hose.

Compressor
connection

Typical Wellhead
Connection

Each site will have different configurations and connections

Check Battery Connections,
see that they are connected
correctly

Quick Connect on the Negative Terminal

When traveling PES

recommends disconnecting
quick connect on the negative
terminal, be sure to check them
the first time installing the HGC
If the pressure is more than 10
psi, Adjust the relief valve
Open the valve on the vent
stack that goes to the back-up
gas.

Adjustable
Relief Valve

Make sure that the vent stack

has 5-7 psi. If it doesnt you
will need to adjust the relief
valve
Depending on situation, you
may leave the Ball Valve
closed. Running the engine
on only the make-up gas.

Ball Valve

Back-up Gas
Hose

59

Open the valve at the gas

inlet to open the make-up
gas. This is the main
source of gas to the engine,
so it has to be regulated at
10 to 18 psi.
Depending on the situation the
make-up gas may be your main
source of gas, or you may only
use the back-up gas in certain
situations
Open the valves at the base
of the hydraulic oil
reservoir and power pack

Inlet Gas
Hose
Valve

Make-Up
Gas Hose

If higher than 10 psi, you will need to adjust

the regulator

Hydraulic Inlet on
Power Pack

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir

Warning! These are the

Suction Hose

most important valve on the

system. Make sure they are open
before starting the engine.
Check the valves on the
wellhead, whether you want
to pump down the casing or
tubing, open and close the
appropriate valves.

Make sure to open and

close the appropriate
valves

Note the HGC is very versatile

and many applications may not
be at a well. No matter the
application , be sure to open
and close the appropriate
valves.
Slowly open the ball valve leading to
the sand filter. Never open this
quickly, doing so will damage the
compressor. Check the drain valve at
the bottom of the sand filter to make
sure it is closed.

Valve needs to be opened

slowly!

Inlet Gas from

Wellhead

Make sure to listen for the piston to be

pushed back to the end of the cylinder
on the first stage side.
Note that in some situations you may not have a
need for a sandfilter. If you are not using one
make sure to open the valve on the gas line
connected to the inlet on the compressor Very
Slowly.

Sand
Filter

Opening too fast can damage the

piston
Whether or not a sand filter is used, the initial gas
filling of stage 1 has to be slow. If not the first
stage piston can slam back and cause damage.
60

Inlet Pressure Gauge

Check the inlet gas pressure
to make sure that it is high
enough, over 40 psi.

Check the pressure gauge on

the gas inlet to the engine
This should be around:
5-7 psi

Needs to be
above 40 psi

If more than a couple pounds above or below 10 psi, you will need to
adjust the regulator on the compressor inlet and check on vent stack
10 oz

5-7 psi

Hose to Throttle
Body

Check the pressure gauge

after the regulator
This should be under:
10 ounces

Check your fluid levels,

hydraulic fluid, antifreeze,
and engine oil.
At the initial setup of the HGC,
the trailer has not been level so it
is possible that the oil in the level
maintainer shifted. You may
need to lower it down to get it to
start, lower it to allow the oil
back into it. Then raise it back
into position once started.

Hydraulic Reservoir

Murphy Level Maintainer

Engine Oil
Tank
Not all models
Radiator
The Hi/Lo gauge should be set to only have the first pump powering
the compressor.

Check the Hi/Lo Murphy

switch to see if it is in the
correct starting position.

Set the second contact at the max setting of

2500.
This is a safety measure to ensure the second
pump is not assisting the first when it is not
supposed to and exceeding the maximum
pressure.

61

The two Murphy pressure gauges on the compressor should not

be initially set higher than 3000 depending on the discharge
pressure.
Check the two Murphy
switches to see if are in the
correct starting position.

Settings for
initial startup

Check the pulsation

dampeners associated with
the Murphy gauges.

Hi/Lo
Murphy

Check pulsation Dampeners

Make sure that they are open

Compressor Box

The HGC should now be ready to start

Flip the switch on the control
panel to the enigne position.
Flip the Governor Idle Down
Override switch to the on
position

While holding the oil

pressure override button,
press the Start button. Once
the engine starts let go of the
Start button. Hold the oil
pressure override button until
the pressure on the gauge is
above the red mark on the
gauge.

Move the
switch away
from you to put
it in the On
position

Move up to the
Standby/Engine
Start position

Idle Down Override

on bottom of control
box
Push Start button till
engine starts then let
go. Keep holding the
oil pressure override
button

Hold down till past mark

on the gauge

Make sure to feel the hydraulic hoses to determine if the hydraulic fluid is flowing properly through the
pump and directional controller
62

Increase the RPM by turning

the rpm throttle on the top of
the control box.

Rotate counterclockwise to
increase RPM

RPM Gauge

Stay in 1824 Range

Once at the RPM you want,

let the engine idle and run for
a minute to let it warm up.

Max is 2400 RPM

Listen to the engine, if it is
running rough or not as
smooth as it should be,
adjustments need to be made
Adjust the engine if it needs
it, by adjusting the air
mixture knob under the
throttle body if the gas is to
rich or too lean.

The speed control unit will

also need to be adjusted
Adjustments:
1. Derivative Gain
2. Internal Gain
3. Minimum Speed
4. Maximum Speed
6. Master Gain
Numbers 3, 4 and 6 should be
avoided unless the engine is
not stable and all other factors
have been eliminated.

Locate the air mixture

knob under the
throttle body

Use a needle nose pliers

or other tool to turn the
knob

Remove the cap from the

governor to expose the
adjustment potentiometers

Use a small
screwdriver to
adjust the settings

If these adjustments dont seem

to help the engine performance,
check the inlet gas for liquids

63

Double check all your valves before starting the compressor

Once you are ready to pump,
flip the middle switch to the
Compressor Start position
When the switch is flipped, the
directional controller will begin
directing the fluid to build
pressure and run the HGC

Watch your inlet and

discharge pressures; to
determine if you are within in
the minimum and maximum
pressures.
Inlet Min/Max
Minimum = 25 psi
Maximum = 125 psi

Adjust the Murphy gauge on

the hydraulic oil assembly to
set when you want the fluid
from the second pump to
assist the first.
The second indicator needs to
be less than 2500.
In some cases you will not
need to set the Hi/Lo, you
will only need the first pump

Adjust the directional

controller if the pistons are
hitting hard in the cylinder
when changing stages.

Move switch up to
the Compressor
Start position

Inter-stage
Pressure
Gauge

Inlet Gas
Pressure
Gauge

Caution! If your
discharge pressure is
unusually high compared to what
you are pumping on, there may
be some routing issues.
Check all of the valves to make
sure the correct ones are closed
and open.

Always set the second

contact first!
If this set point is not first,
the second pump will
continue to assist the first and
exceed the maximum
pressure

Use an allen wrench to adjust

the popits and smooth out the
transition between stages

64

Checklist Version 4

This Section Contains Two Separate Starting Procedures

Make sure compressor is level on trailer

Check gas for liquids
Connect Make-up and Back-up hoses
Connect Hydraulic Hoses
Connect Discharge Hose
Connect Gas hoses to Sand Filter and Compressor
Check Battery Connections
Connect Control Box Wiring
Open the make-up, back-up valves
Open the hydraulic reservoir valve
Open wellhead valve slowly
Open valve on the sand filter slowly
Wait for pressure to build and push the Stage 1
piston back
Check Inlet pressure
Check vent stack pressure 5-7 psi
Check gas inlet pressure at the power pack 5-7 psi
Check gas pressure at power pack after the regulator
10 ounces
Check fluid level on hydraulic reservoir
Check fluid level of engine oil
Check coolant fluid level
Double check wellhead and HGC valves
Make sure the Murphy gauges are set correctly
Stage 1 3000
Stage 2 3000
Check pulsation dampeners in Compressor Box
HGC should now be ready to start
Turn the ignition switch to the run position, one
click to the right
Press the oil pressure override button, and then the
tattletale button
Now you can turn the ignition switch all the way to
the right to the start position until the engine starts
If the engine does not start after a few seconds, turn
the ignition switch back to the off position. You
have to go back to off before you can turn it to the
start position again.

Let the engine idle for a minute or two to

warm up
Gradually increase the RPM by turning the
throttle control on the top left of the electric
box Max RPM is 2400-Start around 1800
Once at the desired RPM let the engine run
and warm up some more
Listen to the engine, if it is running rough or
not as smooth as it should be, adjustments are
needed
To adjust the air mixture, there is a knob
under the carburetor with a L and an R. The
L stands for Lean and the R is for Rich. So
depending on whether the gas is too lean or
too rich will determine which way to turn the
knob.
After the air mixture is taken care of, you will
need to adjust the governor inside the control
box. Start with the gain and then adjust the
stability
If these adjustments dont help, check the
inlet gas for liquids that could be effecting the
engine performance
Once you are ready for the pump, flip the left
switch to the Compressor ON position.
Move the idle override switch to the off
position
After the first stroke you will see how fast the
unit is running and if adjustments to the
RPMs or the Murphy settings need to be
made.
If it needs to run faster, you can set the Hi/Lo
contacts on the Murphy Gauges to the
appropriate levels
If you hear the pistons hitting hard within the
cylinder, then the directional controller will
need to be adjusted

This is a comprehensive checklist for the first time the HGC is placed at a site. Once
the HGC has been running, the next time you start it, many of the steps may be skipped
once familiar with the site.

65

Detailed Checklist Version 4

Make sure that the

compressor is level on the
trailer

Put a level on the top of

the compressor, and
adjust the trailer so it is
level

Check inlet gas for liquids

Connect Hydraulic hoses

Power Pack

Compressor

Quick connects are on the

power pack side
Be sure to clean the fittings,
dirt can affect how well the
quick connect seals. Also
debris at this point will travel
directly to the pump.

Power Pack
Inlet

Outlet

Inlet

Outlet

Sand Filter
Inlet gas to the
Compressor
Connect gas hoses to Sand
Filter and Compressor
Cam locks on both ends, female
on the sand filter to male on the
compressor.

Inlet from the

gas source

Inlet Gas Scrubber

on the Power Pack

Make sure that the make-up and

back-up gas hoses are hooked up
to the gas inlet going to the
engine.
Quick connects are on both hoses, on
the power pack.
Make-up gas is 1/2" hose and fittings
Back-up gas is 1" hose and fittings

Back-up
Gas
Make-up
Gas

66

Control Box
Wiring goes from
compressor to the
electronic control box

Make sure that the wiring

going from the compressor to
the control box is connected.

Make sure that the discharge

hose is connected to both the
compressor and the wellsite
connection. The discharge
hose is a 1" steel braided
hose.

Compressor
connection

Typical Wellhead
Connection

Each site will have different configurations and connections

Check Battery Connections,
see that they are connected
correctly

Quick Connect on the Negative Terminal

When traveling PES

recommends disconnecting the
quick connect on the negative
terminal, be sure to check them
the first time installing the HGC
If the pressure is more than 10
psi, Adjust the relief valve
Open the valve on the vent
stack that goes to the back-up
gas.

Adjustable
Relief Valve

Make sure that the vent stack

has 5-7 psi. If it doesnt you
will need to adjust the relief
valve
Depending on situation, you
may leave the Ball Valve
closed. Running the engine
on only the make-up gas.

Ball Valve

Back-up Gas
Hose

67

Open the valve at the gas

inlet to open the make-up
gas. This is the main
source of gas to the engine,
so it has to be regulated at
10 to 18 psi.
Depending on the situation the
make-up gas may be your main
source of gas, or you may only
use the back-up gas in certain
situations
Open the valves at the base
of the hydraulic oil
reservoir and power pack

Inlet Gas
Hose
Valve

Make-Up
Gas Hose

If higher than 10 psi, you will need to adjust

the regulator

Hydraulic Inlet on
Power Pack

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir

Warning! These are the

Suction Hose

most important valves on

the system. Make sure they are
open before starting the engine.
Check the valves on the
wellhead, whether you want
to pump down the casing or
tubing, open and close the
appropriate valves.

Make sure to open and

close the appropriate
valves

Note the HGC is very versatile

and many applications may not
be at a well. No matter the
application , be sure to open
and close the appropriate
valves.
Slowly open the ball valve leading to
the sand filter. Never open this
quickly, doing so will damage the
compressor. Check the drain valve at
the bottom of the sand filter to make
sure it is closed.

Valve needs to be opened

slowly!

Inlet Gas from

Wellhead

Make sure to listen for the piston to be

pushed back to the end of the cylinder
on the first stage side.
Note that in some situations you may not have a
need for a sandfilter. If you are not using one
make sure to open the valve on the gas line
connected to the inlet on the compressor Very
Slowly.

Sand
Filter

Opening too fast can damage the

piston
Whether or not a sand filter is used, the initial gas
filling of stage 1 has to be slow. If not the first
stage piston can slam back and cause damage.
68

Inlet Pressure Gauge

Check the inlet gas pressure
to make sure that it is high
enough, over 40 psi.

Check the pressure gauge on

the gas inlet to the engine
This should be around:
5-7 psi

Needs to be
above 40 psi

If more than a couple pounds above or below 10 psi, you will need to
adjust the regulator on the compressor inlet and check on vent stack
10 oz

5-7 psi

Hose to Throttle
Body

Check the pressure gauge

after the regulator
This should be under:
10 ounces

Check your fluid levels,

hydraulic fluid, antifreeze,
and engine oil.
At the initial setup of the HGC,
the trailer has not been level so it
is possible that the oil in the level
maintainer shifted. You may
need to lower it down to get it to
start, lower it to allow the oil
back into it. Then raise it back
into position once started.

Hydraulic Reservoir

Murphy Level Maintainer

Engine Oil
Tank
Not all models
Radiator

The Hi/Lo contacts should be set to the starting positions.

Check the Murphy Gauges
for the position of Hi/Lo
contacts.

Starting position of the Hi/Lo

contacts should be down
where the needle cannot
contact them.

69

Check the two Murphy

gauges to see if are in the
correct starting position.

The two Murphy pressure gauges on the compressor should not

be initially set higher than 3000 depending on the discharge
pressure.

Can very depending on the

discharge pressure, but do not
set above 3000.
Settings for
initial startup

Set Stage 1 to 3000 to ensure

it finishes its entire stroke

Check the pulsation

dampeners associated with
the Murphy gauges.
When checking pulsation
dampeners make sure that
they are open are open at
least 2 full turns.

Make sure the

valves are not
closed
Compressor Box

The HGC should now be ready to start

Turn the ignition switch to
the run position without
going all the way to the start
position.
Then press the oil pressure
override button followed by
the tattletale button.

Turn the ignition switch all

the way to the right, to the
start position, until the engine
starts.
If it does not start within a
couple seconds you will need
to stop and turn the ignition
off and attempt to start it
again.

Off Run
Start
Oil pressure override
lockout button
Ignition Switch

Tattletale
button

The lockout button will override the oil

pressure until the engine exceeds the set
point disengaging the lockout
Off Run

Off Run
Start

Do not hold the igniton in

the start position for more
than a few seconds. Doing
so can damage the starter.

Start

Once the switch has been moved

to the start position it has to go
back to the off position before
you can attempt to start the
engine again.

Once the engine is started, make sure to feel the hydraulic hoses to determine if the hydraulic fluid is
flowing properly through the pump and directional controller
70

Increase the RPM by turning

the rpm throttle on the top of
the control box.

Rotate counterclockwise to
increase RPM

Check the idle override

switch
Once at the RPM you want,
let the engine idle and run for
a minute to let it warm up.

RPM Gauge

Stay in 1824 Range

Idle override should be
in the off position

Maximum is 2400 RPM

Listen to the engine, if it is

running rough or not as
smooth as it should be,
adjustments need to be made
Adjust the engine if it needs
it, by adjusting the air
mixture knob under the
throttle body if the gas is to
rich or too lean.

The speed control unit will

also need to be adjusted
Adjustments:
1. Derivative Gain
2. Internal Gain
3. Minimum Speed
4. Maximum Speed
6. Master Gain
Numbers 3, 4 and 6 should be
avoided unless the engine is
not stable and all other factors
have been eliminated.

Locate the air mixture

knob under the
throttle body

Use a needle nose pliers

or other tool to turn the
knob

Remove the cap from the

governor to expose the
adjustment potentiometers

Use a small
screwdriver to
adjust the settings

If these adjustments dont seem

to help the engine performance,
check the inlet gas for liquids

71

Double check all your valves before starting the compressor

Once you are ready to pump,
flip the left switch to the
Compressor Start position
When the switch is flipped, the
directional controller will begin
directing the fluid, building
pressure and running the HGC

Watch your inlet and

discharge pressures; to
determine if you are within in
the minimum and maximum
pressures.
Inlet Min/Max
Minimum = 40 psi
Maximum = 125 psi

If needed, set the Hi/Lo

contacts on the Murphy
gauges in the compressor
box.
The set point needs to be less
than 1500 psi.
In some cases you will not
need to set the Hi/Lo, it may
cause the HGC to run at too
many strokes per minute.

Adjust the directional

controller if the pistons are
hitting hard in the cylinder
when changing stages.

Move switch up to
the Compressor
Start position
The On position is away from you
as your facing the electric box
Inter-stage
Pressure
Gauge

Inlet Gas
Pressure
Gauge

Caution! If your
discharge pressure is
unusually high compared to what
you are pumping against, there
may be some routing issues.
Check all of the valves to make
sure the correct ones are closed
and open.

Setting the contact

point too high can bog
down the engine, and may even kill it. Do
not set the Hi/Lo pressures above 1500 psi.

Use an allen wrench to adjust

the popits and smooth out the
transition between stages

72

Maintenance
The HGC is very durable but there are a few aspects that will require some routine maintenance. This
section will cover how to service many of the components.
This manual only covers routine basic maintenance for the engine. If you are not proficient working
on engines, take the power pack to a local mechanic.

Warning! If working on the HGC in the field, be sure to take the weather into account. It is
not recommended to service certain areas of the HGC if the weather could introduce foreign
material or particles inside the HGC.

Observe and follow the safety recommendations throughout the maintenance section.

Caution! Take proper precautions when working on or around the HGC. If servicing the
HGC after it has been running, be cautious of extremely warm surfaces. Always wear
protective safety equipment while servicing the HGC.

Overview
Checklist for Basic Maintenance Operations
Testing Electrical Components
Hi/Lo System
Switching Stages
Safety Gauges and Switches
How and When to Change Fluids
Coolant
Engine Oil
Draining and Refilling Hydraulic Oil
Reservoir
Replacing Engine Belt
How to Inspect and Replace the Piston
Assemblies
How to Adjust the Vent Stack
Air Mixture Adjustments on the Throttle Body
How to Set the Timer
Testing/Adjusting the Governor Settings
Replacing the Inner/Outer Cylinder Gasket

How to Replace the Filters

Sand Filter
Premo Filter
Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Filters
Bypass Filter
Air Filter
Engine Oil Filter
Testing and Replacing Relays
Pump
How to Test the Pump
Inspecting and Replacing
Directional Controller
How to Adjust the Flow Poppets
How to Set the Relief Valve
Removing and Mounting
Inspecting the Solenoid
Adjusting Regulators
Inspecting and Removing the Gas Manifold
Yoke
Preparations for Traveling with the HGC
73

74

Testing Hi/Lo System Version 3

Testing Electrical
Components
Oil Pressure Gauge

Disconnect the 8
pin wire connecter

Inside Control Box

Oil Pressure
Gauge Wire

Pressure Switch

Bypassing the inlet

pressure switch

Hi/Lo Switching
Relay Box

The Hi/Lo system can be tested without the HGC running. To test it begin by opening the control box lid
and disconnect the oil pressure gauge wire. This wire needs to be disconnected or you can hold down the
oil pressure override button; the reason is that it will keep the engine shutdown because it takes a few
seconds for the engine to build the required oil pressure. If you send power to the HGC it will think it
needs to be shutdown because of the engine oil pressure.
Hi/Lo Murphy Pressure Gauge
After you have the wire disconnected, you will also need to
trick the inlet gas pressure switch. You will need to have the
HGC think that it is pumping and it will not pump if the inlet
3000
2000
pressure is too low, this requires you to prop open the
contacts on the pressure switch with some non-conductive
material or object.
1000

Move the middle switch on the control box to the

Compressor position. The relay box is the HI/Lo switching
relay; listen to it and make sure it trips and switches as you
move the two contacts on the Hi/Lo Murphy pressure gauge.
Make contact with the needle with both contacts, the relay
should change corresponding to the contact on the Murphy
guage.

Hi/Lo Murphy
Pressure Gauge

PRESSURE

0
PSI

First
Contact

4000

5000

Second
Contact

To make contact, rotate the second contact counterclockwise till it touches

the needle. On the first touch, nothing should happen, by default the relay
should be set this way. Move the second contact back. Next rotate the
first contact until it hits the needle. This should cause the solenoid to close
and the relay to switch. Repeat the process a few times; making sure to
end by touching the second contact to the needle.

Solenoid
As you test the Hi/Lo system, make sure that you can verify that the
solenoid on the hydraulic manifold assembly is opening and closing. The
solenoid is normally open. When you touch the first contact, the solenoid
should close and open back up when you touch the second contact. You
should be able to either hear the solenoid closing, or you may need to feel
it.
75

Testing Compressor Stage Changes Version 3

Testing Electrical
Components
Continued

Similar to testing the Hi/Lo system, you can test the compressor to make sure it is
shifting correctly. Many of the steps are the same; only you move the contacts on
the Murphy pressure gauges within the compressor box.

Begin by disconnecting the oil pressure gauge wire in the control box on the power pack. Move the middle
switch to the Compressor position. You will also need to trick the inlet gas pressure switch by propping the
contacts open with a non-conductive material or object.
Solenoid
Relay Box
Lights up during
Stage 1 compression

Lights up during
Stage 2 compression

Bypassing the Inlet

Pressure Swith

Next open the compressor box so that the lid with the Murphy pressure gauges is open and you can see the
relay box. At this point there should be power to the compressor, you can tell this by the lights on one of the
wire connectors on the directional controller solenoid should be on.
To check that the solenoid and directional controller are operating correctly, adjust the Murphy pressure
gauges one at a time. If on stage one, trip that gauge to switch them. Repeat this process with both gauges
several times to make sure the relay box and solenoid are changing to the appropriate stage.
Stage 2 Murphy Pressure
Gauge
Only need to
move the second
contact on both
pressure gauges.

3000

2000

2nd
1000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

Stage 1 Murphy Pressure

Gauge

4000

5000

After touching the needle on the first stage pressure

gauge, move the second contact on the second
stage pressure gauge to touch the needle. Check
that the relay and the solenoid switched back to the
the first stage. Repeat the process several times.

3000

2000

1st
1000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

4000

5000

Start with the first stage pressure gauge. Move the

second contact over until it touches the needle.
Check that the relay and the solenoid changed and
move to the other pressure gauge. The HGC may be
on the second stage so if nothing happens trip the
second stage gauge and then start with the first stage
gauge.

76

Testing Hi/Lo System Version 4

Testing Electrical
Components

Start by getting power to the compressor box. Turn the ignition switch to the
run position without going to far to the start position. Then press the oil
pressure override button, then the tattletale button. This will get power to the
Engine Panel and electric box; you will be able to see the engine hours on the
tachometer.

Run Position

Flip the Compressor switch to its on position to send power to the compressor
box. To check if power is making it over, look at the solenoid on the directional
controller. If the light is on, the compressor has power; if not, check the standby
switches.

Inlet Pressure
Switch

You will need to prop open the inlet gas pressure switch. With no pressure, it
will try to keep the compressor from pumping. Put something non-conductive
between the contacts.
To test the Hi/Lo system you will move the first contacts on the Murphy gauges and make contact with
the needles. Start with the Stage 1 Murphy gauge. When you make contact, you should be able to
hear the solenoid on the power pack close. Make contact several times making sure the solenoid opens
or closes each time.
Stage 2 Murphy Pressure Gauge

3000

2000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

4000

Move the first

contact
clockwise to
make contact

Move the second

contact to switch
to Stage 2

3000

2000

2nd
1000

Stage 1 Murphy Pressure Gauge

1st
1000

5000

4000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

5000

Electric Box
Terminal Strip
Before trying the second stage, you will need to make contact with
the second contact on the Stage 1 Murphy gauge. Once the module
has switched it to the second stage you can test the Hi/Lo connection
for stage 2. Repeat the process with the first contact on the Stage 2
Murphy gauge. If the solenoid in not shifting check for a loose wire
or bad contact.
In the electric box, the wires will be connected at positions 4 and 6
on the terminal strip. In the compressor box the white/black wire
from spot G on the Amphenol connector should be attached to the
third post on the left side of the module.
Depending on which stage the compressor is on will determine
which Murphy gauge will control the Hi/Lo system. When testing
the Hi/Lo you will need to change the stages of the compressor.

Connected to the
Hi/Lo solenoid
Wire going to
the compressor
box for Hi/Lo
signal
Module
White/Black
Wire

77

Testing Compressor Stage Changes Version 4

Testing Electrical
Components

Go through the same process as testing the Hi/Lo system, but move the second
contacts on the Murphy gauges. Start by getting power to the compressor box.
When the compressor witch is moved On, the light on the bottom solenoid wire
connector should come on.

Light will come on

when power is sent
to compressor box
A

Starting with the Stage 1 Murphy, move the second contact in a

counterclockwise direction until it makes contact with the needle. You should
hear the solenoid on the directional controller shift as well as the top wire
connector should now have its light on.
B
Go back and forth between the two gauges shifting the solenoid making sure it
shifts correctly and the light changes between A and B.
Stage 2 Murphy Pressure Gauge
Move the second
contacts
counterclockwise
to make contact

3000

2000

2nd
1000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

Stage 1 Murphy Pressure Gauge

4000

5000

3000

2000

1st
1000

4000

PRESSURE

0
PSI

5000

To check the wiring:

The Murphy gauges have three wires coming from each. The white wires should be connected to the
ground bar in the compressor box. The red is the low/first contact, and the black is the high/second
contact. They go to the right side of the module.
Directional
Controller
Solenoid Power
Solenoid B

Stage 1 - Low
Stage 2 - Low
Stage 2-High
Stage 1-High

Solenoid A
The directional controller also has three wires connected to each. The green wires go to the ground bar
and the black wires are connected to the +12V on the terminal strip or the second position on the left
side of the module. The whites connect to the bottom two on the left side of the module. Stage 1 is
the A wire and Stage 2 is the B wire.
78

Testing Electrical
Components
Continued

Compressor

Testing Safety Switches

Each of the safety switches or gauges can be tested without the unit running.
The process is fairly simple and can begin to narrow down a potential
problem. Be sure to check only one component at a time and set all gauges
back to the correct values when done testing them.
Inlet Gas Pressure Switch Version 3
The inlet gas pressure switch is located at the base of the yoke in line with
the inlet pressure gauge. With the unit off, remove the plastic cover on the
pressure switch and open the control box on the power pack.

If there is the required gas pressure, the pressure switch contacts should be open. When the
pressure decreases the contacts will close and send the unit to standby.
To test it, disconnect the oil pressure gauge wire within the control box, or have someone hold
the oil pressure override button. While the middle switch is in the Pump position, move the
contacts of the pressure switch open and closed. By default they are closed, and when opened
they will spring back closed if let go. The relay within the control should open and close
corresponding to the contacts of the pressure switch.

Pressure switch
contacts.
Shown in the
closed postion.

Relay that will latch

and unlatch depending
on the opening and
closing of the pressure
switch.

Push down on
the white
piece to open
the contacts

Inlet Gas Pressure Switch Version 4

Start by getting power to the compressor box by setting the
ignition switch to the run position and press the oil pressure
override and the tattletale buttons on the engine panel.
Flip the compressor switch to the on position and power should be sent to the compressor box.
With this switch on, the relay in the electric box should be off an not sending power because
there is no inlet pressure and that switch is keeping it in the standby mode.
Remove the cover on the inlet gas pressure switch
and separate the contacts. Once they are apart, the
relay in the electric box should switch and provide
power to the compressor, as if it was pumping.
Let the pressure switch contacts touch and make
sure the relay changes back. Do this a few times
making sure the standby switch is working
correctly.

Relay that switches as

the contacts are
seperated and controls
going into standby
mode

79

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Level Float Version 3

Similar to the process of the previous test, leave the oil pressure gauge wire disconnected and
remove the cover of the hydraulic oil level float. You will also need to prop open the contacts
of the inlet pressure switch. The float is attached to the side of the reservoir near the end of the
stage 2 side of the compressor.
Once the cover is unscrewed and removed, you should see a silver lever along the top of the
float mechanism. With the middle switch on the control box set to pump or standby, push
down on the end of the silver tab on the float. The third relay in the control box should switch
and kill the power to the unit. Test both in standby and pump positions, the float should
completely shutdown the unit if the hydraulic oil gets too low.
Oil Level Float
Cover that needs
to be unscrewed
and removed

Relay that will latch and

unlatch when the float is
pushed up to shutdown
the unit.

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Level Float Version 4

The hydraulic oil level will shutdown the HGC whether it is in standby mode or compressing.
You will need to test it under both conditions.
Have power going to the engine panel so you can see the engine hours on the tachometer.
Remove the cover on the hydraulic oil float to expose the lever.

Button will pop out

indicating that
something tripped the
relay and it lost power.

Cover that needs

to be unscrewed
and removed
Tattletale Button
Hydraulic Oil Level
Float

With the cover off and the unit in a simulated standby mode, press down on the lever, this
manually lowers the float. It should reach a point that trips the float and sends a signal to the
tattletale relay in the engine panel. When you push the lever far enough it should kill the
power completely and the button will extend on the tattletale relay.
Repeat the test, but turn the compressor switch on so it simulates the compressor running.
Pushing down on the lever should have the same affect and shut down the HGC completely.

80

Gas Temperature Gauge Version 3

Compressor Safety
Switches Continued

The process is the same for the gas temperature gauge as it was for the hydraulic level float.
They are tied together by the wiring. Do the same within the control box and watch the third
relay. Remove the cover on the gas temperature gauge.
Test the gauge by moving the contact so that it touches the needle. When they touch the third
relay should switch and shut down the HGC. As with the hydraulic oil float, the gas
temperature gauge should shut down the HGC whether it is in standby or pumping; be sure to
test the gauge with the middle switch in both the Standby and Pump positions.
Temperature Gauge
with Cover

Without Cover

Turn to make
the contact touch
the needle

Relay that will

latch and unlatch
while testing the
gauge

Be sure to reset the contact to 400F after you are finished testing the temperature gauge!
Gas Temperature Gauge Version 3
The gas temperature gauge will shutdown the HGC completely. Test the gauge in both standby
mode and in the simulated compressing mode.
Get the power to the engine panel, you will see the engine hours come on the tachometer.
After this remove the cover on the gas temperature gauge and turn the contact
counterclockwise until it touches the needle. This should trip the tattletale relay and shut down
the HGC killing power to the engine panel.

Button will pop out

indicating that the
gauge tripped the relay
and it lost power.

Turn to make
the contact touch
the needle

Gas Temperature
Gauge

Tattletale Button

Reset the ignition switch and buttons and send power to the compressor box to simulate
running conditions. Repeat the test and make contact with the needle. The HGC should shut
down completely again. Be sure to reset the contact to 400F after you are finished testing the
temperature gauge!
81

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Temperature Gauge Version 3

The hydraulic oil temperature gauge is the same model that is used for the gas temperature.
The testing process is the same. The hydraulic temperature gauge will not shut down the HGC,
it will send the unit to standby if the hydraulic temperature gets to 200F

Remove the cover on the gauge and with the middle switch set to Pump move the contact to
touch the needle and watch that the second relay is switching.

Hydraulic Oil
Temperature Gauge
with cover removed
Relay that will switch
as you test the
temperature gauge

Be sure to reset the contact to 200F after you are finished testing the temperature gauge!

Hydraulic Oil Reservoir Temperature Gauge Version 4

The hydraulic oil temperature gauge will send the HGC to standby mode, it needs to be tested
with the unit in the simulated compressing mode.
Start by getting power to the compressor box by
setting the ignition switch to the run position and
press the oil pressure override and the tattletale
buttons.
Remove the cover to get
access to the contact

Relay that
switches as the
contacts are
seperated and
controls going into
standby mode

Flip the compressor switch to the On position and

power should be sent to the compressor box. Be sure
to prop open the contacts on the inlet gas pressure
swtich.
Remove the cover to the hydraulic temperature
gauge. You can move the contact in the
counterclockwise direction until you make contact
with the needle.
This should trip the relay and send the HGC back into
standby mode until you raise the contact off of the
needle.

Be sure to reset the contact to 200F after you are finished testing the temperature gauge!
82

When and How to

Change the Fluids

Coolant
Tools Needed:
Drain Pan
Screwdriver or Nut Driver to loosen hose clamps
Funnel
Water supply if running water through
New Coolant: 4-5 gallons if empty
If the engine has been running, wait before working on the coolant. Allow
the coolant time to cool down. The temperature of the coolant can be above
boiling, use caution when working with on it.

Coolant drain plug

on bottom of
Radiator

Caution! The radiator cap may be extremely hot, remove it very

slowly, if not removed slowly coolant may also spray out of the cap
opening.
If you notice the engine temperature not stable or it exceeds limits, the
coolant may need to be changed. To begin you will need a drain pan, place
it under the drain petcock that is at the base of the radiator on the left side.

In cold climate areas

be sure to check
coolant with a
hydrometer on a
regular interval

Once the drain pan is in place under the petcock, remove the radiator cap,
then turn the petcock to open it. If the radiator cap is not removed before
opening the petcock, the coolant will drain very slowly. Let the coolant
drain out for several minutes. To flush the system run water through the
radiator cap until the fluid that is coming out of the petcock is mostly water.
For a more complete flush, remove the upper radiator hose at the radiator
and run water through the hose. This will force water through the engine
block and clean the thermostat.
Tighten the petcock and begin filling the system through the radiator cap.
To limit the amount of spillage, use a funnel to pore the coolant into the
radiator. There are funnels that are designed to fit onto the radiator and
simulate a cap, they allow you to monitor the coolant level as you refill the
fluid.

Radiator cap may be

extremely hot,
remove slowly!

To circulate the coolant throughout the whole system, you should have the
engine running while you are filling the radiator with fluid. The new coolant
should always be fifty-fifty, unless your situation needs an alternate mixture
for cold weather climates, which means the new coolant should be half
water and half antifreeze. When adding the new fluid you need to be careful
not to add too much too fast. You will most likely see a rise in the fluid
level then it will drop back down once the thermostat opens up. Once the
fluid drops and you know that the thermostat has opened up you fill the
radiator to the top and put the cap back on.
In the situations where the HGC is located in cold climate areas, be sure to
check the coolant on a regular basis. If not checked and replaced when
needed, there is the chance of it freezing and causing damage.
83

When and How to

Change the Fluids

Be sure to close the

valve on the oil tank
before starting

Engine Oil
Tools Needed:
Filter Wrench
Drain Pan
Ratchet and 3/8 Allen Socket
or 3/8 Allen Wrench

When to Replace Engine Oil Filter

First Time: 250 hours
Each Time After: 700 Hours

Due to the Premo oil filtration device, the actual oil does not need to be
replaced as often. If you need to replace the oil use the following procedure.
The engine oil filter needs to be replaced every 700 hours of run time on the
unit. Even though the Premo filtration device is providing clean oil, it is
recommended to change the filters every 700 hours of run time.

Engine Oil Filter

Start by checking the valve on the oil tank and make sure it is closed so that
you are not continually filling what you are trying to drain. Then place a
drain pan under the engine and remove the drain plug located on the tee on
the bottom of the oil pan.
If you are replacing the oil also, depending on your model, there may be a
ball valve on the drain plug to make it easier to drain.

Filter List
4.3 L PH3387A
3.0 L PH5A
5.7 L PZ-45
These are Fram or
Pennzoil filter
numbers that can be
crossed over for other
brands, to find the
correct filter for your
engine model

As the oil drains, remove the oil filter that is on the side of the engine.
Allow the oil to drain out of both spots till the old oil is dripping out. Check
the old filter to make sure the gasket came off with the filter. Before placing
the new filter on, with your finger place some oil around and on the new
gasket and screw the new filter on. Do not over tighten the filter, only
put it on hand tight, do not use the filter wrench to tighten it down.

Tee at the bottom of the oil

pan with drain plug in it

Place oil on the gasket of the

new filter before putting the
filter on the engine

Tighten the drain plug and open the valve on the oil tank to allow the oil to fill
back up. The oil level will reach a certain point where the fill tank will stop
putting more oil into the engine. When this happens you will need to put some
into the oil fill on the top of the engine. This is located on the valve cover and
will be a black cap with markings on it.
Check the dipstick to make sure it is full and run the engine for a few seconds to
fill the filter and recheck the oil level, may need to add oil after oil is circulated
and fills the filter.

Dipstick: Level
should be half way up
the hashed markings
84

Draining and Refilling Hydraulic Oil

When and How to

Change the Fluids

Supplies/Tools Needed:
HGC 200 - 165 gallons Hydraulic Oil
A means to hold the used fluid container/tank/barrels
12" or 15" Crescent Wrench
Replacement Fluid Up to 3 Barrels

Drain Pans/Bucket
Pump and fill hoses if necessary
Funnel

This is not easy routine maintenance, be sure that you have all the equipment and tools
necessary before you begin. Especially if draining the fluid; somewhere to store used fluid.
There is not one way to drain or fill the hydraulic oil reservoir. There are many possibilities depending
on equipment and situations. Also depending on how much fluid you are draining or filling, there are
multiple places to do this from on the reservoir. This section will cover completely draining the
reservoir.
Filter Section
There are two main sections of the
reservoir that will need to be
drained. The first one is the filter
section. You are able to drain this
portion by removing the plug and
opening the ball valve at the
bottom of this section. To allow
the fluid to flow, take out the relief
valve on the vent stack to give the
reservoir a vent.

Plug and ball valve

at the base of the
filter section

The filter section holds up to 35 gallons of fluid so it is easier to

attach a hose to the valve before opening it. You can run this
hose over to buckets or a barrel to hold the fluid. It can be tough
sometimes to get a drain pan or bucket under the reservoir to
catch this fluid.

Can attach a hose

to the valve and
run it to a barrel or
bucket

Reservoir Section
The second section is the larger reservoir portion that needs to be drained. Keep both ball valves on
the suction hose closed until you have it disconnected from the power pack. Unscrew the 2" union
between the two ball valves at the power pack.
Reservoir Outlet

Power Pack Inlet

2" Suction Hose

A small amount of fluid

will be contained between
the ball valves and will fall
out when the union is
unscrewed
85

Reservoir Section
Continued

You can now extend the 2" suction hose out from the hydraulic reservoir. Next
it would be more efficient if you can make up a nipple and 90 with a 2" union
on it to screw into a barrel bung and the end of the suction hose.

One possibility of
draining the fluid into a
barrel with a nipple and
90 attached to the bung
on the barrel

If unable to make up a connection to the barrel an alternative means of storage will need to be found.
With the hose connected to the barrel, you can open the ball valves along the hose and let fluid into the
barrel. The reservoir section can hold up to 130 gallons so you will need two and half barrels three
total including the filter section.
Monitor the amount of fluid going into the barrel and close the valves when close to the top, not over
filling the barrel.
Plugged Drain
Port at Base of
Reservoir

After removing most of the fluid from the

reservoir through the suction hose, you can
remove the plug at the base of the reservoir.
This will drain almost all of the remaining
fluid that is that.

Now that all of the used fluid is removed the reservoir is ready to be filled. You will need three barrels
of hydraulic fluid to completely fill the reservoir. Close the ball valves and hook the suction hose back
to the power pack. Plug the drains along the bottom of the reservoir before filling.
Filling Reservoir
To fill the reservoir completely, it needs to be filled through the outer cylinder. By filling through the
outer cylinder you can gravity feed into the reservoir passing through the filter section. The fill point
is at the top of the outer cylinder where the crossover hose connects to the Stage 1 side. You can
monitor your progress on the sight-glasses on the sides of the reservoir.
It may be difficult to raise a bucket to the height needed to fill through
the outer cylinder, so it may be necessary to setup a small pump and
hoses to move the fluid from the barrels up to the fill point.

Remove the gauge

and reducer at the
outer cylinder and
fill through the hole
in the cylinder with
a hose or funnel.

Possible hoses
and pump

86

Procedure for Engine Without Tensioner 3.0 L

Replacing Belt

Replace Annually or
as Needed

Tools Needed:
1/2" Wrench
Prybar
Ratchet and 1/2" Socket
Belt pry tool

To inspect the belt, check while the engine is not running. Look at the belt and if you see very
noticeable cracking or if the belt is loose it will need to be replaced or adjusted. To get the belt off
you will need to loosen two bolts that are attached to the alternator.
Bottom of Alternator
Need to loosen
these bolts to allow
alternator to rotate

The Alternator pivots on the bolt

As the Alternator pivots, it
slides along the groove in
the bracket

Belt Part Number:

The first bolt is at the top of the alternator on the radiator side; you should be able to see that it goes
through the bracket with a slot in it. The second one is at the bottom of the alternator; you will need to
hold the bolt to break the nut loose. Once these two are loose you should be able the rotate the
alternator along the slot in the bracket. When the alternator rotates the belt will now be loose enough
to remove.
To remove the belt you are going to need to remove the protective screen that is around the fan. To do
this there are four bolts that hold the screen to the radiator. Once the screen is off you can slide the
belt off around the fan.
When you have the old belt off, always compare the old one with the new belt. Inspect the width and
length to make sure that they are the same. To measure the length, place your thumbs inside the belt
and pull them apart to stretch the belts until they are fairly taunt. At this point you can see if they have
the same length or not.
This engine configuration does not use all of the belts, since accessories such as air conditioning are
left off. Due to this there are more than one groove on the pulleys, make sure to place the belt in the
correct one.
When placing the new belt around the fan make sure to have
the lettering of the manufacturing company facing so that you
can read it when looking down from in front of the engine.
Be sure to get the belt in the correct grooves on the crankshaft
and water pump pulleys. Both pulleys have two grooves, the
alternator belt is in the ones closest to the engine block, our
engine configuration does not use the other grooves that are
on the pulleys.
87

Replacing Belt
Continued
Once the new belt is in place around all three pulleys, you will need to use a pry bar or some other
means to force the alternator to rotate back along the slot in the bracket. Once you have the belt tight,
tighten the top bolt to keep it from moving and then tighten the second bolt on the bottom of the
alternator. To determine if the belt is tight enough, you should be able to push down and move it
slightly, also turn to rotate the belt and see if you can turn it over or not, if so it will need to be
tightened some.
At this point you need to put the protective screen back into place around the fan. If there is belt noise
upon starting the engine, the belt is either too tight or needs to be tightened some more.
Procedure for Engine With a Tensioner 4.3L and 5.7L
Some of the engine configurations differ slightly, one of the differences is how the belt is routed. In
the previous example the engine needed more than one belt to run all of the accessories, in some
models the engine has one serpentine belt that runs all of the accessories. Also in the previous
example the alternator bolts had to be loosened, when the engine has a belt tensioner the installation
and removal is much simpler.
Belt Part Number: K7056

The square hole

that you place the
ratchet or belt
tool into

Always note how the belt is

routed before removing it,
this allows you to install it in
the correct positions
Typical Belt Routing
Alternator

When removing the belt in this case you will need and 3/8
box end, the end of a ratchet will work or there are belt
removal tools that are made to use on the tensioners.
Start by removing the protective screen around the fan so you
will have room to get at the serpentine belt.

Tensioner

Pully

Water
Pump

Crankshaft

Then place the ratchet or belt removal tool into the hole on the tensioner. Once in place rotate the
tensioner back so the pressure on the belt is gone and there is some slack in the belt. Use the slack to
slide the belt off of the pulleys and remove it.
Now that the old belt is off, compare it to the new one to make sure that it is the same length and
width. Make sure that you can read the manufactures writing and that it is orientated correctly. When
standing in front of the radiator, as you look down on the belt, you should be able to read the writing.
Place the belt around all but one pulley and put the tool back on the tensioner and rotate it back again.
This should give you enough slack to slip the belt over the last pulley and set the belt in place. All that
is left is to release the tensioner and put the protective screen back on.
88

Piston Assemblies

Inspecting the
Pistons

Caution! Many of the

pictures display that the
piston can be removed out in the
field. However, if there are strong
winds that could blow debris into the
HGC, do not work on the unit until
the weather clears.

Tools Needed:
1 1/4" Wrenches/Socket
15" or 24" Crescent Wrench
7/8" Wrench/Socket
1 1/2" Wrench
1/2" Ratchet and Sockets
File
Sandpaper
WD40/Cleaner
Rags

The piston assemblies include the piston and piston ram tube. On the piston are the bands and rings,
they will also need to be inspected when the piston is removed. In order to check any of the bands or
rings the piston assembly will need to be removed from the inner cylinder.

Removing the
Pistons

To begin the process, if possible, apply pressure through the gas inlet on the
compressor. This pressure will push the pistons back and remove the
hydraulic fluid that is in the piston ram tube.

Once the pistons are pushed back, remove the pressure from the compressor. Unscrew the end
of the pressure relief valve on the vent stack. Removing the cap and spring of the valve will let
any remaining pressure exit the compressor. Make sure to remove the pressure, if not
hydraulic oil may spray out when the hoses are removed.

Loosen nuts when hoses

are removed

Put a cap on the end

plate on the hose

There are two 1" hydraulic hoses attached to the end plate, begin
taking those hoses off. You will only need to unscrew the female
JIC fittings on the side of the end plate. It will help if you have a cap
that you can place on the hoses to minimize your loss of hydraulic
fluid.
After the two hydraulic hoses are removed, begin to loosen the nuts
and blots holding the end plate to the compressor cylinder. Leave a
couple of the bolts in place.

With a couple of the bolts in place, slide the end plate out
until the centralizer is at the edge of the compressor
cylinder. You should be able to see the nuts that are
holding the end palate to the ram tube. These nuts should
be blue and easy to notice.
To loosen the nuts you will need to leave a couple of the
bolts through the holes to keep the piston assembly from
rotating.

Slide out till you

can see and get a
wrench on the blue
bolts

89

Removing the
Pistons Continued
Once you remove the nuts,
the end plate will be free and
should pull straight off.

Warning! The end plate

weighs approximately 80
lbs and can be slick from the
hydraulic oil. Use caution when
removing it.

With the end plate removed,

inspect the catcher and gasket that
is around it. Pull the catcher out of
the ram tube and inspect it for wear
or unusual damage.
Catcher still in the ram tube

Catcher sliders straight out

off of the impact dampener

You are now ready to remove the piston assembly. Begin sliding the ram tube out of the
compressor cylinder, once the first centralizer is free you will need to hold and support the
weight so the assembly remain level as you remove it. Once the assembly is out of the
compressor, it is best to set is down and tip it up onto the piston head.

Warning! If you do not keep the assembly level as you remove it, you can damage
the rings on the piston head.
When the assembly comes out of the inner
cylinder it will have the ram tube attached.
Set both of them down so the assembly stands
up as shown. This was taken after the ram
tube had been removed.

As you pull the

assembly out of the
inner cylinder you will
need to support the end
to keep it level

When you have the assembly out, it is

sometimes easier to set the assembly down on
a tailgate if possible.

90

Inspecting the
Piston Assembly

Once the assembly is set down, loosen the set screws that are in the
centralizer near the piston head. When they are loose, move the centralizer
down to rest on the piston head.

With the centralizer off and

resting on the piston head,
you can pull the ram tube
straight up and off of the
ram.

With the assembly on

the ground loosen the set
screws on the centralizer

Caution! The rider bands inside the centralizer have to

be removed before the centralizer will slide over the ram.
Do not try to force it off with the bands still inside.
Slide the centralizer off of the piston and inspect the rider bands
within it. To remove the centralizer you will need to get the rider
bands out before it will slide over the end of the ram.
Rider band inside the
centralizer

To get the rider bands out of the centralizer you may need to tip
the ram on its side and move the centralizer back and forth.

With the piston free you can inspect the bands and rings for
any wear or damage. Also inspect the ram tube for any wear
or rough, high spots on the inside of the tube.
Run your hands along the surfaces of the ram and the ram
tube, feeling for any rough or high spots.
Check the surface of the piston ram for any imperfections that
rise up and can wear the inner ram tube. If your ram tube is
not perfect on the inside surface, it will tear up the rings.

91

Inspecting the
Piston Assembly
Continued

Remove the rings and bands, go over all the surfaces and area that they fit
into. If the sides of the grooves are not smooth, the rings will not be able to
seal as they should
Make sure to go over all the surfaces of
both ends of the piston. Inspect the
sides of the grooves very closely for
any damage that can affect the sealing
of the rings.
If you find any high spots along the
piston or within and along the grooves
of the rings, these will need to be
sanded down. Do not worry about
indentions, only high spots will effect
and damage the piston assembly.

Use emery cloth too sand

down the high spots, you
may need to use a small file
to get into and around the
grooves of the rings.

After going over all of the surfaces and inspecting it for damage, also removing any high spots,
you will need to thoroughly clean the parts of the piston assembly. Especially if you have been
grinding down high spots, any metal shavings have to be removed.
Clean all of the parts that you are putting back into the compressor.

Go over, checking all of the rings and bands for any damage or excessive wear.

Sealing Rings on the piston

head

Rider bands and sealing

rings

Example of a damaged
rider band
92

Installing the Piston

Assembly

After you have inspected and cleaned both the piston and the ram tube, you
are ready to put the assembly back together and install it.
Start by placing the Ryton sealing rings on the piston head.

Cuts need to
be Offset

The Ryton bands consist of two pieces: one piece is L

shaped and the other is the square ring that fits along the
L. There is a small dowel or pin in the square ring that
fits into a small indention on the L piece. This sets
them and keeps them in a certain position in relation to
each other.
The L piece has to go a specific direction on the piston
head. One edge has to go along the bottom of the
groove and the other has to face the front of the piston
head.

Caution! The L ring and square ring both

have a cut section, these cut parts cannot line up
together. They are designed to fit together so they are
offset.
Direction that the ring needs to
go. The L needs to face the front
of the piston head.
The square ring fits inside of the L
shaped part
Pin set in the square ring and the
indention that it fits into on the L
shaped piece.

Warning!
These can not be
placed onto the piston
and used if the pin is
missing from the square
piece.

The two pieces have to stay

held together in the same
position relative to the other
by the pin

With the two pieces lined up and the pin set, you can move and slide the two so that you can
expand them enough to slide over the end of the piston head and drop them into place.
Once the two are in place, double check that the pin is still in the correct position and the two
pieces are connected. Repeat the process for the second Ryton band.

93

Installing the Piston

Assembly
Continued

Next place the wiper band on the end of the piston head. A metal ring goes
under the band. Once the metal ring is in position, slide the wiper band over
the end of the piston head and drop it in place.
The metal
ring goes
underneath
the wiper
band

Caution! Do not
try to spread the
wiper band too far. Expand
it just enough to make over
the piston head, going too
far can break the wiper
band.

The wiper bands are different from each other on the Stage 1 and Stage 2 sides. On the stage 1
side the band is similar to the Ryton bands. On the stage 2 side the wiper band is a copper
molly band. The copper molly band is designed to dissipate heat more than the Ryton one.
You can distinguish between the two types by the color of the band. The copper molly one is a
bronze color and the Ryton on is black.

When those three are in place, put the larger of the rider bands on. It should expand and slide
over the other bands and snap into place.
Next slide the centralizer down over the piston ram and let it sit at the base of the piston head.
Insert the rider bands into the centralizer and line them up.
Slide the centralizer down
and put the rider band inside
The rider band
will fit around
the others

Warning! You have to slide the centralizer over the piston ram before you put any of
the smaller rings or bands on the ram. If the rings or bands are on the ram, the
centralizer will not pass over them. They are designed not to, do not try to force it over the
rings.
94

Installing the Piston

Assembly
Continued

Once the centralizer is on, put the three sealing rings and rider band on the
piston ram. Each sealing ring will have a metal ring underneath it. These
install fairly easy. Each ring will be two pieces that are cut to line up a
certain way. Each piece will also have a number of dots on them to identify
which ones are a pair. One of the pieces will have a pin, this pin needs to
line up with the gap in the metal ring.

The number of dots also correcsponds to which position the ring is on the ram itself. Number 1
is at the end of the ram and number 3 is next to the rider band. The two pieces simply slide
together over the metal ring. When snapping the rings into position, make sure that the dots on
each pair are also lined up together.
Correct
1
2
3
The gap in the metal ring needs to line up
with the pin in the ring. Each one will
have a metal ring underneath it.
Incorrect

Caution! The dots on the rings

have to line up with each and be
the same amount of dots

Rider Band

Slide the ram tube down over

the end of the piston ram

The rider bands will be two pieces similar to the ones in the centralizer, they will be slightly
larger. They go onto the ram the same way, they simply line up and slide onto the ram.

With all the rings, bands and centralizer in place, slide the ram tube
down over the end of the ram. Make sure that the rider bands and rings
on the ram stayed in the correct positions. Let the ram tube slide as far
as it can so that the impact dampener is through the end.
There should be a gap of a few inches between the piston head and the
end of the ram tube. Slide the centralizer up into position on the ram
tube and tighten the set screws.

Once the ram tube is in

place, work the
centralizer up into
position against the ram
tube

When tightening the

centralizer onto the ram
tube, make sure to line the
fins up with the other ones
that are already on the ram
tube.
95

Installing the Piston

Assembly
Continued

With the ram tube on and the centralizer tightened down, you are ready to
put the assembly into the compressor cylinder.
While installing the assembly, be sure to keep the piston and the
ram tube level. If they are not level you may damage the rings
on the piston head.
Keeping the one of the fins of the centralizers down, slide the
assembly in until the end of the ram tube is out slightly from the
compressor cylinder and stop when the centralizer is able to rest
on the inner part of the cylinder.

Caution! Do not forget the catcher. The catcher goes

in a certain way, the beveled end goes toward the ram
tube, the flat end faces out toward you.

Insert a couple of the blots on the compressor cylinder and slide the end
plate on. Tighten the nuts holding the end plate and slide it in.
Make sure to line the end plate up with the compressor cylinder. With
the end plate lined up with the compressor flange, tighten a couple of the
bolts on opposite sides.
Using a bar or pipe that will fit into the hole on the end plate, test the
movement of the piston, by pushing in on the impact dampener. Make
sure the piston does not grab or get stuck.

Test the piston by pushing in on the impact dampener

through this fitting on the end plate. You can use the
inlet gas to pressure up the cylinder and push the piston
back to test it more than once.

Once you know the end plate is aligned correctly, tighten the rest of the bolts. Reattach the two
hydraulic hoses and the installation of the piston assembly is complete.

96

Vent Stack

Adjusting the
Vent Stack

The vent stack is set at 5-7 psi and allows the HGC to build an initial
pressure without putting too much pressure in the HGC, this also ensures
that the pump can get primed with hydraulic oil.
To adjust the amount of gas released, unscrew and loosen the
lock collar on the relief valve. Once it is loose you can either
unscrew the end of the relief valve to let out more gas,
lowering the pressure or tighten it to keep more in, raising the
pressure.

Set at
5-7 psi
Adjustable
Relief
Valve

By watching the pressure gauge at the gas inlet on the power

pack, you can determine if adjustments to the vent stack
pressure will be needed. By adjusting the pressure of the vent
stack will increase or decrease the amount of back-up gas.

Back-up Gas going to the

Power Pack

Depending on the pressure at the vent stack and the amount

of pressure that is at the power pack inlet, you may have to
adjust the regulator at the gas inlet on the compressor to get
the pressure where it needs to be.

There are several situations where you will need to remove the
adjustable relief valve on the vent stack. When you need all of the
pressure out of the hydraulic reservoir you will need to remove the relief
valve.

Removing the
Adjustable Relief
Valve
Pressure
Gauge
Valve
Housing

The relief valve housing screws into the reducer bushing, and the
pressure adjustor screws into the valve housing. To remove the pressure
from the reservoir, loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjustor from the
housing. Do this slowly, if removed quickly while there is still pressure
on the valve, will blow the internal pieces of the valve out onto the
ground.
Order and Direction of the Valve Pieces

Lock Nut

Housing

Plastic
Cap

Spring

Lock
Nut

Adjustor

The Direction of the pieces and the order they go in is important and the
valve will not work properly if they are not correct. When installing,
screw the pieces back onto the vent stack in the proper order, and once
the pressure is where it needs to be, tighten the lock nut to ensure the
adjustor stays in position.
97

Throttle Body

Adjusting the
Throttle Body

Tools Needed:
1 /2" Wrench
Screwdriver
Pliers

Knob underneath the

throttle body

In many instances you will need to adjust the air mixture that flows
through the throttle body on the engine. This is needed because most of
the wells will all have varying inlet gas that will be used to run the
power pack. The gases will all have different mixtures and may be richer
or leaner and the engine will not run as it should if it is not adjusted.
To do this, there is a small square adjuster underneath the throttle body.
The adjustor will have a L and a R on either side, the L is for lean and the
R is for rich. To adjust the air mixture, you turn the knob to either side
depending on the gas.
Note that if the engine continues to run badly after adjusting it, check the
inlet gas to make sure liquids are not making it to the throttle body

Using a pair of needle

nose pliers, or similar
tool, adjust the mixture by
turning the knob

The direction and the degree that you have to adjust the mixture will vary
every time. If the engine will not come out of the poor performance no
matter how you have the engine set, be sure to check for liquids in the
inlet gas. If there is liquid making it all the way to the throttle body, it
will cause the engine to run poorly.
Timer

Setting the Timer

The timer is designed to shut down the HGC while you are not there
after a predetermined amount of time. Once you have the HGC running,
you can set the timer to shut down the HGC up to 24 hours from when
you set it.

Dial

Switch

Not all of the HGC

models will have a shut
down timer

To set the timer, have the HGC running and move the dial to the amount
of time that you want the HGC to run for. Once the dial is in the correct
position flip the switch at the bottom right of the timer.
If you flip the switch before you have the dial set, it will kill the HGC.
Since the dial is at zero, once you flip the switch it think the HGC should
be shut off, so this is why you will need to set the dial before hitting the
switch to turn the timer on.
Do not use the timer if you need to shut in the well when the HGC is not
running. The timer does nothing more than shut down the HGC, gas will
continue to pass through and vent from the HGC if the timer turns it off.

98

Governor Controller in the Control Box

Adjusting Speed
Control Unit

Tools Needed:
Small Flat Head Screwdriver
Screwdriver

Governor Part
Number: E-422P

The new style of governors are programmed and set by the manufacturers,
once installed they should not need adjustments. Although if performance is
suffering and adjustments need to be made, you can adjust the governor
controls.

1. Derivative Gain
2. Internal Gain

3. Minimum Speed
4. Maximum Speed

Remove the rubber

cover from the plate
to gain access to the
governor, using a
small flat head
screwdriver, you
can adjust the
potentiometers.

6. Master Gain

When a +12V is applied to the fixed speed wire, the controller is

programmed to run at a fixed engine speed. This speed is determined by the
voltage applied to the potentiometer by the speed adjuster. The controller
adjusts the pulse width applied to the actuator to open or close the actuator
and increase or decrease the engine speed to match the set speed.
By default the governor speed controller is set to have a minimum speed of
1700 RPMs. If you need to run the HGC slower than that you can adjust the
fourth potentiometer to lower the minimum speed by turning it
counterclockwise.
If the engine is running poorly, the gain can be re-adjusted. This should not
have to be done once normally set. Turning the gain down should stabilize
the unit, however it may be lazy.
It can be difficult to get a definitive good/bad determination from a
controller. This usually comes down to eliminating other possiblities before
calling the controller bad.

99

Cylinder Gasket

Replacing Inner/
Outer Cylinder
Gasket

Tools Needed:
3/4" Wrench
5/8" Wrench
Cutting tool for new gasket
3/8" Gasket Material

Bolts holding
sealing plate on

Start by loosening the bolts on the end of the outer

cylinder. When the bolts are all out, the sealing plate
should slide back along the inner cylinder. Once the plate
is back you will be able to see the old gasket material.
Pry the old gasket out, you may need to use a screwdriver
of some other tool to pry it out.

Gap between the

cylinders

Sealing plate

Now that the old material is out, inspect the area where the gasket will go.
There is a 3/8" gap around the inner cylinder, this is where the gasket is
pushed into and seals the two cylinders.

Take the new gasket material and cut a 45

wedge off of the end of the material. Start
with the cut end and start pushing it in place,
while at the same time pulling and stretching
the material as you wrap it around and push it
into the gap.

45 cuts on the ends of

the Gasket

Two cut ends should

line up together

When you have the new gasket all the way around and in place, line it up with the cut end and score
the other with the cutting tool. Take the new gasket out and cut the material where you scored it. Both
ends should now have 45 cuts that line up and fit together.
Place the gasket back into the gap and stretch it slightly as you pull it around and match the two ends
together. With the new gasket in place, slide the sealing plate back and retighten the bolts.

The 45 cuts
should fit
together

Score the gasket when

in place to mark where
to cut it

Fit the gasket together

and slide the sealing
plate back into place
100

Sand Filter

Changing Filters

Tools Needed:
Pry bar or Screwdriver
New Filter

Filter

Drain

Exit to the
inlet on the
compressor

Inlet

Filter Part Number: JPM 736

The sand filter is fairly straight forward. It consists of the

cylinder that holds the filter and some fittings to allow the gas to
flow through it. If you begin to notice a sizeable difference in the
pressure going into the sand filter and the gas leaving it, this is a
sign that the filter needs to be changed.
The first step is to stop the flow of gas to the filter and drain off
any excess gas that is in the cylinder. Then begin to loosen the
eye bolts on the top of the cylinder and take the lid off. Once that
is off you can remove the wing nut and plate; pull out the old
filter and slide the new one in and reverse the process to get it
back in operational condition.
Filter needs to be standing as shown to allow liquids to drop off.

Premo Filter
Tools Needed:
Filter Wrench
Drain Pan
LT6S Premo Filter
The Premo filters are a special filter that have to be purchased
through a Premo distributor.
The Premo filter needs to be changed on the same interval as the
engine oil. Every 250 hours the filter needs to changed. The
Premo filter is a high efficiency filter that needs to be changed
due to the size of the filtration that it does.
Changing this filter is essentially the same as the engine oil filter.
Place the drain pan under the the Premo filter, there will be some
oil that drains out. Be sure to check the old filter to make sure
the old gasket came off with the filter.
Filter unscrews from
the bottom of the
Premo device

Use a filter wrench if needed to take off the filter. Before putting
the new filter on, put some oil on and around the gasket and
screw it on. Do not use the filter wrench to tighten the filter, only
put it on hand tight.

101

102

Bypass Filter

Changing Filters
Continued
Supplies/Tools Needed:
Filter Wrench
Drain Pan/Bucket
New Filter

Filter Part Number:

B-99 Baldwin Filter

The bypass filter is located along the hydraulic oil reservoir near the end of the stage 1 side.
This filter is in place to filter the hydraulic oil and gas that is left in the inner cylinder. As each
stage finishes there will be oil and gas in the cylinder. As the piston is pushed back into its
starting position, this oil and gas will be forced out of the cylinder. The oil and gas will travel
through a hose connected to the bottom of the end plate and go to the bypass filter. The oil and
gas are then filtered before going back into the hydraulic oil reservoir. There is a check valve
on the reservoir side of the filter, this is in place so that while changing the filter, oil does no
exit the hydraulic oil reservoir.
To remove the filter, either spin it off with your hands, or use a filter wrench to loosen the
filter. There will be some hydraulic fluid that will drain out when the filter is removed, so
place a drain pan or a bucket under the filter to catch any fluid. Once the filter is off, inspect it
to make sure the old gasket came off with the filter.

There will still be some

fluid in the bypass line, so
when the filter is removed,
you will have some oil
drain out.

The check valve will

prevent any fluid from
leaving the reservoir when
you have the filter removed

When installing the new filter be sure to use your finger and
spread some oil on the new gasket before putting on the
filter.

Screw the new filter on with your hands, do not use the filter wrench to tighten the filter. It is
easy to over tighten the filter using the filter wrench.

103

Air Filter

Changing Filters
Continued
Supplies/Tools Needed:
New Air Filter

Filter Part Number:

Depending on where the HGC is located, the air filter may need to be
replace more often than others. In an area with more dirt and dust blowing
around, the filter will pick up more material and need to be changed
regularly.
Wing Nut

The air filter housing is located on top of the throttle body. To remove the
filter is a fairly simple process. The cover is held on by a wing nut, unscrew
the wing nut and remove the cover.
Once the black cover is off you will see the air filter. It sits on top of a metal
base, to remove the filter simply lift it straight up and off of the base. The
base rests on top of the throttle body, it also can be removed by lifting it
straight up. Inspect the air filter to see how dirty and clogged it is. The
cylinder of the air filter should be pretty white if new.

Air filter cover on

top of the throttle
body

A filter that needs to be replaced will be full of dust and will be a brown or
even black color. One way to test to see how clogged the filter is, is to take
a light, or hold the filter up to a light and see if you can see the light coming
through the side of the filter. If you cant see the light the filter is clogged
and should be replaced.

The air filter should be checked at least once a month.

Throttle Body

Place the metal

base onto the
throttle body

Slide the new

filter down onto
the base

When putting the filter back into position put the metal base back on top of the throttle body,
drop the new filter down onto the base. Place the black metal lid over the new filter and tighten
down the wingnut so the gaskets on the top and bottom of the air filter seal properly.

104

Relays

Testing and
Replacing Relays

Relay Part Numbers:

G7L-2A-TJ-CB-DC12
70-111224
782XMXC
PH518A

Supplies/Tools Needed:
Relays
Screwdriver

Relay Model Types:

Square Base General Purpose Relay, Number of Pins 8,
Contact Form Double Pole Double Throw, Contact Current
Rating @ 28VDC 10 Amps, @ 120VAC 10 Amps, @ 240VAC
10 Amps
Square Base General Purpose Relay, Number of Pins 4,
Contact Form Double Pole Single Throw, Contact Current
Rating @ 120VAC 30 Amps

Replacing the relays is pretty straight forward, to remove simply pull straight
out on the smaller relays. The larger 30 amp relays have two tabs holding them
in position that need to be pried back. When inserting the replacement, make
sure to line up the contacts correctly with the mounting base.
One way to test the ignition relay is if the power pack is getting power or not. By flipping the
switch to the engine run position, and hitting the oil pressure over ride, if there is power to the
control box the hours on the tachometer should become visible.
To test the fans at the front of the power pack, undo the connection to the oil pressure gauge
and put power to the control box. By moving the contact on the hydraulic temperature gauge
you can start the fans by making contact with the needle.
The compressor switch would activate whenever you flip the middle switch to the compressor
position. If the relay does not change, or there is no power making it to the compressor box,
then the relay may be at fault, make sure to have the standby switches bypassed while testing
this.
To test the shutdown and standby relays, move the gauges so that contact is made with the
needles, and listen or watch to see if the relay is switching to the correct positions. If the relay
does not open and close correctly, you will need to replace it.
Version 3

Version 4
Ignition Power

Hydraulic Oil
Cooler Fans

Shutdown
Switch
Standby
Switch
Oil Override

Within the electronic control box there are five relays. The top one is for the power circuit that
is controlled by the start button. The next one is for the cooling fans on the front of the
hydraulic oil cooler. The last three are the smaller 10 amp ice cube relays that control the
system kills, standby switches and the power to the compressor. Version 4 is very similar only
the it does not have fans or the oil override relays.

105

Testing and
Inspecting the
Pump

Pump
The pump is the heart of the HGC. It is responsible for the flow of hydraulic
oil from the reservoir to the compressor, and the pressure that compresses
the gas.

Testing the Pump

Tools needed:
9/16" Wrench
9/16" Socket and Ratchet
15" Crescent Wrench
1 1/2" Wrench
7/8" Wrench
Fittings to cap the ends of the
hoses as you take them off
Drain Pan

While the HGC is in Standby you should be able to feel fluid

flowing through all of the hoses. Start by feeling the pump
housing itself and the hydraulic hoses attached to it. By
putting your hand on them you should be able to feel the fluid
flowing past the part you are touching.
To make sure fluid is passing through the pumps, start the
engine and leave in standby, you can very carefully loosen
the JIC fittings on the outlet side of the pump. Use a 15"
crescent or 1 1/2" open end wrench to loosen the fittings on
the hydraulic hoses. Once you see oil dripping from the
fitting retighten it. This proves that hydraulics are passing
through the pumps. Shut down the HGC.

Loosen the fittings

slightly to observe if
fluid is passing
through the pump

Remove hydraulic
hose and cap both
the end plate and the
hose fitting

Next you will need to test the pumps on wheather they are
building proper pressure. To do this you will need to
disconnect the hydraulic hose going from the directional
controller to the end plate of stage 2. Tighten caps onto the
cylinder and the end of the hydraulic hose. Once you have
the high pressure caps on the cylinder and hose, you can start
the engine.
Set the Murphys on the
compressor at 800-1000psi

When testing the pump you dont need to build pressure very
high, just to test out if the pressure builds or not.

Lower the pressure settings on the Murphy pressure gauges on the compressor. Set each gauge
around 800-1000 psi. Double check your caps to make sure they are tight, and not leaking. You
can now begin pumping, flip the switch to the pump position.
Closely monitor the pump and the pressure gauges. The compressor should pressure up stage 1
and transfer to stage 2 where it will build pressure very fast. Once you see that the pressure builds
on both stages you should shut down the HGC.
Remove the pressure that is left in the compressor and reattach the hose to the end plate.
106

107

Inspecting and
Adjusting the
Directional
Controller

Directional Controller
In the component section we covered what the different parts of the
directional controller were and what they did. In this section we will cover
servicing the directional controller.
The directional controller is designed not need major repairs, if a part fails, it
will be replacable.
Poppet Valves

Adjusting the Flow

Poppets

Tools needed:
7/16" Allen Wrench
A crescent wrench or channel lock pliers
The flow poppets will need to be adjusted if the pistons are
hitting harder than they should. By adjusting them you can
smooth out the stage changes in the compressor.
The flow poppets should be backed out when ever the unit
is started. This is due to that if you adjust them when the
HGC is running, the hydraulic oil is warmed up and flows
differently than when it is cool.
Begin by loosing the locking collar on the screw and back it
off a couple turns. Use the allen wrench to turn the screw
clockwise to restrict the flow or turn it counterclockwise to
open it back up.

Do not make large turns while adjusting the poppets.

Make slow incremental adjustments.

Typical setting is
approximately 3 threads
showing

The design of the directional controller allows you to adjust

the poppets independently of each other. You can adjust the
flow poppets individually, if only Stage 1 needs adjustment,
you can just adjust that one or vise versa.
Stage 1 is on the right, next to the solenoid, Stage 2 is on the
left.

When you are adjusting the poppets you will notice that you can only turn the allen wrench
when the stage is over. You will not be able to move the poppets while the stage is building
pressure and the hydraulics are flowing through that area of the directional controller.
If the flow poppets were adjusted and the HGC was shut down, you will need to back the
poppets all the way out before you start the HGC.
108

109

How to Remove and

Mount the
Directional
Controller

Tools needed:
9/16" Wrench
9/16" Socket and Ratchet
15" and 24" crescent wrench
Fittings to cap the ends of the hoses
as you take them off
1 1/2" Wrench
Drain Pan

Warning! The
Directional Controller
block is rather heavy, around
100 lbs. Be sure to watch
your fingers so they do not
get crushed between the
block and the hydraulic oil
reservoir when removing or
installing the directional
controller
The directional controller is
held onto the skid by four
bolts that screw into the
directional controller through
the skid.
There is no easy way to remove the directional controller, no matter what you are going to get dirty
and make a mess.
Start by disconnecting the wires going to the solenoid. Next remove the high pressure hoses from the
directional controller. It is recommended that you do this after the HGC has been sitting for awhile
and has drained most of the hydraulic fluid into the reservoir. As you take off the hoses, it is best if
you have a cap that you can screw onto the end of them to prevent them from leaking.
After you have all of the hoses and wires disconnected, you can begin to loosen the bolts holding it to
the skid. There are four bolts that go through the skid, this part is best if done with more than one
person since the directional controller is rather heavy and will be slippery due to the hydraulic oil that
will be all over it.
If possible use a couple of 1/2" all thread bolts, thread them into two of the holes once the bolts are
removed. With these in place you can remove the two remaining bolts without the directional
controller falling. With all four of the bolts removed and the directional controller resting on the two
all threads, slide the directional controller from the skid. Use the all threads when installing to make it
easier holding and lining up the directional controller.
Once the four bolts are out it should be free from the skid and pull straight off, in some cases, there
may have been some silicon used, so you may need to pry it a little to separate it from the skid.
Reverse the process to install the directional controller back onto the compressor.
110

Inspecting and
Removing the
Solenoid

Solenoid
Tools Needed:
Phillips screwdriver
Allen Wrench
Drain pan if removing solenoid
The two wires that connect to the front of the solenoid are held on by a
screw. Using a screwdriver, remove the screws, be sure to locate and store
in a dry spot, the two rubber protective gaskets around the base of the
connectors.

Wire Connectors
Once the wires are removed, the solenoid is held in place by 4 allen head
screws. The screws go through the middle of the solenoid and bolt into the
directional controller. When you remove the 4 screws and pull the solenoid
off, hydraulic oil will leak out of the 4 holes in the directional controller.
On the back side of the solenoid there are 4 holes that have rubber o-rings in
them. Two of the four have rubber plugs behind the o-ring, be sure not to
accidentally drop any of them and note the location of the two plugs to
assure that they go back correctly.
Back side of Solenoid
Each hole has a rubber oring, the ones with the
One of the screws, plug, and oyellow rings have plugs in
ring
them. Use one of the
screws to pull them out if
needed.
4 allen head screws holding
the solenoid to the directional
controller

Each end is held on by a

cap that unscrews off,
allowing the end to slide
off of the rod.

Center Piece
The solenoid has 3 basic parts. The center that has the rods on both sides, and the 2 ends where
the wires connect to. To remove either end, unscrew the black cap and slide the end off.
When cleaning off the solenoid, make sure not to spray any harsh chemicals on the o-rings, it
might eat away some of the rubber. It will most likely leak.
111

Regulator

Adjusting
Regulators

Tools Needed:
Screwdriver
Crescent Wrench

Regulator Part Numbers:

24027 - compressor
65899 - power pack

The regulators are designed to restrict and maintain the flow of gas through them. There are
two regulators along the make-up gas line going to the engine.
Before you start the engine, check you pressure gauges on the make-up and back-up gas lines.
If they are too high or low, you will need to adjust the regulator.

Inside the regulator is a molded diaphragm assembly. These twin layers of molded synthetic
rubber sandwich a tough, flexible fabric to give a sensitive response for the diaphragm plate.
The plate transmits pressure variations to the control linkage. This is how it monitors and
regulates the amount of gas to pass through it.

Compressor

To adjust the regulator, unscrew and remove

the cap. You will see a bolt with a square
head on the end. Using a wrench or
crescent, loosen the lock nut and turn the
bolt. As you increase or decrease the
pressure, you should be able to monitor the
results on the gauge following the regulator.

Power Pack

To adjust the regulator, remove the bonnet

cap. You will see the spring and the plate
with a notch in the middle. Using a
screwdriver, place the end in one of notches
and turn to either increase or decrease the
pressure of the gas exiting.

As you turn and adjust the regulator, make small turns and after each, check the pressure gauges
to stop at the appropriate pressure.

112

Inspecting and
Removing the Yoke

How to Remove the

Gas Manifold Yoke

Gas Manifold Yoke

The yoke is an essential piece of the HGC, without it, the compressor would
not work. It is possible for a part within the yoke to fail, this section
demonstrates how to remove and inspect the yoke for possible damage.

Outlet

Stage 2

Yoke

Tools needed:
1 1/4" wrench
15 or 24" crescent wrench
Pipe wrench
Tool to unscrew ball seat in the yoke

Stage 1

Inlet
There are 12 bolts that pull the two sides together, it is this force that holds the gas manifold
yoke in place. To remove the yoke you will need to remove these bolts except for a couple on
the bottom side. They will remain to provide a safety measure so the yoke doesnt fall.
Once the bolts are out, you will need to loosen at least one side of the bolts that hold the
compressor cylinder to the skid. These need to be loosened so that one of the sides has some
means to slide and spread apart to get the yoke out. It is easier to loosen the bolts on the stage
2 side. This is because the cylinder is much smaller and will move easier.
Once the stage 2 cylinder moves enough, slide the yoke out from between the two cylinders.

Leave a few of the

bolts in place
along the bottom
to keep the yoke
from falling when
you spread the
cylinders apart.

Bolts need to be
loosened to be
able to move the
cylinder

The yoke can be removed

with the inlet and outlet still
attached

It is not necessary to remove the inlet gas assembly or the outlet assembly, from the yoke. It
will make the yoke rather heavy and awkward if both are left connected to the yoke. When
removing the inlet gas assembly, be careful of the ball in the bottom of the yoke. Once the
receiver that screws into the yoke is removed the ball and spring will drop out of the yoke.

113

Inspecting the Yoke

and Ball Checks

Now that the yoke is out, inspect it for any abnormal wear or possible
damage. To get the top and bottom ball checks out, you will need to remove
the retainer and fittings for the inlet and outlet of the gas. To get the middle
ball out, you will need a pair of tongs to fit in the holes and unscrew the seat.

Inspect all of the balls to make sure they are not damaged or wearing badly, you will need to
remove the inlet and outlet assemblies to see the balls at the top and bottom of the yoke. To
inspect the middle ball you will need to use the tool and remove the seat on the stage 1 side of
the yoke. Also check in the yoke where the ball seats at. If there is damage or abnormal wear,
they will not seal properly. If the gasket material was not installed properly it can also interfere
with the sealing of the ball check.
An easy way to test the sealing of the ball check is
to place the seat on top of the ball and pour a small
amount of liquid on the middle hole of the seat. If
the liquid leaks past the ball then it is not sealing
correctly, if you are able to spin the ball and the
liquid stays in place then it is sealing.

Simple Test
Ball and the seat that screws into
the yoke on the stage 1 side.

Another test is a vacuum test. Putting the ball and

seat on a small vacuum pump you can determine if
it is sealing or not. Get the pressure around 30 psi
and roll the ball on top of the seat, if the pressure
does not fall, it is holding the seal.

Removing the Middle Ball Check

Tool fits in holes

Ball seat is loose

Denting the seat and

yoke will deform the
material and keep the
seat from loosening

Ball within the yoke

The middle ball check seat can be very

difficult to remove. If needed a tool can
be made to fit the holes, allowing you to
unscrew the seat.

114

Installing the Gas

Manifold Yoke

If you took the gas manifold yoke apart to inspect the ball checks, you will
need to put it back together. The inlet and outlet retainer pipes are slightly
different and go in a certain spot. Do not switch the placement of the inlet
and outlet retainers. These screw in and hold the ball seats in place. The
smaller of the two ball checks goes in the top for the outlet and the larger
ball check is the inlet side.
The gasket, ball, and seat all have to go in a certain order
when installing. The inlet and outlet checks are different
sizes. They can not be switched.

Retainer

Outlet

Gasket
Ball
Seat

The inlet and outlet retainers are different, do not switch

them.
There are gaskets between the ball seat and the yoke. As
you tighten the inlet and outlet retainers, it will seal the
gasket and ball seat into place. Put the middle check back
into position and insert the set screw when the seat is tight
and in the correct position.

Inlet

Gasket
Ball
Seat

Retainer

With the cylinders spread apart and a few of the bolts still
through the flanges, lower the yoke into position, as close
as you can. Push the stage 2 cylinder back against the
yoke. When the yoke and cylinders are close to the
correct positions, put the rest of the bolts through and
start the nuts.

Before tightening the bolts, make sure the yoke is for sure in the correct position between the
cylinders and is aligned with the inlet and outlet, straight up and down.
Side View

Stage 2
Cylinder

Stage 1
Cylinder

The lip on the yoke has to fit into the opening of the flanges on both sides. The bolts pull the
two together around the yoke sealing it.
With the yoke and cylinders together, tighten the bolts and pull the two cylinders against the
yoke. Check the cylinder, it may have rotated slightly while moving it. Tighten the bolts as
much as you can.
115

Preparing the HGC

for Travel

Traveling Preperations
Supplies/Tools needed:
Tie down straps
Cover for cam locks
Covers for hydraulic hoses
Female JIC cap

Female JIC Cap

Discharge Fitting
Gas Inlet

Before traveling with the HGC you will need to put a cap on the cam lock
going to the gas inlet on the compressor. If this is left open the pistons
inside are able to move. With a cap on both the discharge JIC fitting and the
inlet cam lock, the pressure will be maintained within the compressor, not
allowing the pistons to move.
Leaving the hydraulic hoses connected is the easiest and most efficient way to
transport the HGC. If you need to disconnect the hoses and lay them in the
skid of the compressor that is fine if you cover the ends of the hoses and the
connections on the power pack. If they are left uncovered, you may get dirt or
debris in the hose connections. This can become a problem if any material
makes to to the pump or directional controller. Be sure to clean the
connections properly before reconnecting them.
Leave the hydraulic hoses
connected

Female Cam Lock

Cap Before
Traveling

Tie down the Sand Filter

Back of the Trailer

When loading the HGC onto the trailer both the compressor and power pack need to be tied
down. Each needs to be prevented from moving backward or forward, and also from side to
side. The sand filter will need to be held in place also.
Battery

Disconnect
Negative Terminal

Also there is a quick connect on the negative battery terminal.

Before traveling with the HGC, disconnect this terminal.
This prevents any one from walking up to the power pack and
flipping switches or trying to start it. If a switch is left on it
will drain the battery.
Engine Oil Reservoir
Ball Valve

Make sure the ball valve on the engine oil tank is closed. If left open it has the
possibility of adding oil through the Murphy maintainer while on the road.
Going up and down hills can move the oil enough to make it think it is low, so
when it adds more oil, it will actually be over filling the engine.
116

Troubleshooting
The scenarios in this section are to show possible situations that may occur while
operating the HGC. They are to help you determine what is wrong with the HGC that
you are working on.

Overview

When You Begin Pumping; the Discharge

Pressure is Much Higher Than the Pressure of
What Your Pumping Against
HGC is Short Stroking
No Power when Switch is in Standby Position
Noticeable Difference Between Inlet and
Outlet Pressure of Sand Filter
Stage 1 Pressure is Higher than Stage 2
Murphy Pressure Gauge Not Reading
Hydraulic Pressures
Piston is Hitting Hard When Changing Stages
Engine is Overheating
The Inter-stage Pressure Builds to a Certain
Pressure and Stays at That Pressure
Leaking Fluid
The HGC Stays in Standby Mode
Engine Will Not Start
Engine RPM Will Not Increase at Startup
Engine Temperature Gauge is Moving
Sporadically
HGC is Not Building Pressure
Inter-stage Pressure Staying High After
Stage 2
Engine Running Rough
HGC Shuts Down and Will Not Stay Running

Noise Coming from Stage 1 by the Yoke

Engine Oil is Foaming in the Sight Glass
Loud Chirping Noise From the Engine
Hydraulic Oil Leaks Out of Bypass Filter
The Piston Does Not Slide Freely as it
Should After Installing
Noticeable Difference Between Inlet and
Outlet Pressure of the Bypass Filter
Difference in Temperatures of Hydraulic
Oil Gauges
Hydraulic Oil is Overheating
Losing Hydraulic Oil
Hydraulic Oil Float is Not Operating
Correctly
When Stage 2 Finishes, it Shifts Stages
Twice
Chattering or Whining Noise From the
Pump
Murphy Pressure Gauges Contact Wear
Spot
Spike in the Outer Cylinder Pressure
Engine Speed Fluctuates and Over Speeds
Buzzing or Chattering Noise From Yoke
Gas Temperature is Over Heating
Oil Out of Vent Stack Relief Valve

117

Problem

Very High Discharge Pressure when Starting the HGC Compared to the
Pressure You are Pumping Into.

How to
Determine This
is the Problem

By using the gauges on the wellhead you should be able to see around what
pressure you should be pumping at. If your interstage pressure is a lot
higher than it should be, you need to find the source of blockage.
Shut down the HGC till the problem is solved.
Scenario 1
You go through the checklist and start the HGC and have the compressor
pumping. You saw that the casing pressure was at 300 psi when you hooked
up to the wellhead. Now that the compressor is running, the discharge
pressure is around 900 psi.
Due to the drastic difference in pressure, there is something blocking the
flow.

Possible Causes

A valve needs to be opened

Find Source and

Solution

Go over all of your valves again, the most likely one will be on the wellhead
inline with which ever side your pumping down. Once you locate the
problem or closed valve, open it to solve the problem.

Pressure gauge on
the wellhead, yours
may be in a different
location depending
on the wellhead
configuration.
Inter-stage pressure
gauge will read near
the maximum, much
higher than the gauge
on the wellhead.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Ball valve that will most likely

need to be opened

If caught right away there should be no damage to the HGC. If not there
could be possible damage to the hose and compressor after a significant
period of time.

118

Problem

HGC is Short Stroking

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

When the pump is activated, no matter how you have it set, the compressor
quickly changes stages at a rather high amount of strokes per minute.
Soon the engine goes into standby mode.
Scenario 2
When you begin pumping or after the compressor has been running for a
couple of minutes, the strokes per minute increase without you doing
anything. The strokes stay high even after you make adjustments and then
the HGC goes into standby mode.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Low Inlet Gas Pressure

Not Enough Inlet Volume
Go over and check all of your valves dealing with the inlet gas. If all of
these are set correctly then monitor the inlet gas pressure gauge on the
compressor. The minimum amount of pressure to run the HGC is 25 psi. If
the pressure is lower than that there will not be enough force to push the first
stage piston back.
Inlet Pressure Gauge
Remove the pressure
switch cover to see if
the contacts are open or
closed.
They open when the
pressure is above the
minimum 40 psi.
Open Contacts

Pressure Switch

Another issue is that even if the inlet gas pressure is high enough, there still might not be
enough volume coming into the compressor at that pressure. So as the HGC runs, it is
depleting the gas available and getting to a point where there is not enough gas coming in. You
may try slowing down the strokes per minute to see if it affects the amount of gas used.
You may need to find an alternative source for the inlet gas. Depending on the situation, you
may be able to shut in other pipelines to provides more gas. You could also possibly run a line
from a well close by that you know produces enough gas. May also be able to leave the well
shut in while the pressure builds up.
Components
Affected by the
Problem

As stated in the scenario, the HGC will go into standby mode when it starts
short stroking. No damage should be done to the HGC.
119

Problem
How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

No Power When Switch is in Standby Position

Scenario 3
During the start up process, you flip the switch to Standby. After doing this,
you notice there is no power to the control box. The hour meter and lights
do not come on.
Battery Connections
Dead Battery
Alternator and Charging System
Wiring
Power Override Relay
If your HGC has the power override relay in the control box, it will not
supply power to the controls until the oil pressure override button is pressed.
Holding this down you will be able to get power and start the engine.

Open the battery box and locate the

terminals. If one or both are loose or
disconnected, tighten or reconnect them
and try the switch again.
Also check the terminals for excessive
corrosion that may be causing a poor
connection. Clean the terminals by
washing away any battery acid with water.

Note that when traveling with the HGC, NatCom

recommends to disconnect the quick connect on the
negative terminal. This may be the cause at initial
start up.
Negative Terminal Quick
Connect

After you determine that the battery

terminals are correct, if possible, use a
jump box or jumper cables to give the
battery the boost needed to start the
engine.
There is also the possibility that a wire came
loose within the control box. Inspect the
control box for any obvious wire problems.
If the connections, wires, and the battery
itself are good, you may need to
test the alternator and the charging system.
A local Mechanic or parts store should be
able to diagnosis any problems.
Components
Affected by the
Problem

Negative
Terminal

Positive
Terminal

Visual Signs the Battery is Bad:

Smells like rotten eggs
Sides of the battery are pushed out, or bulging out
Terminal is broke or corroded off the battery

No components should be affected or damaged by the problem.

120

Problem

Noticeable Difference Between Inlet and Outlet Pressure of Sand Filter

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the HGC runs you need to monitor the pressure going into the sand filter
and the pressure exiting to the compressor. If you begin to notice a large
difference in pressures, the sand filter is blocking the flow of gas.
This blockage will cause the inlet pressure to be higher than the outlet
pressure. The difference will be more than a few psi.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Filter in the sand filter is clogged

Liquids may need to be drained off
If your sand filter is working correctly, then eventually it will start to restrict
flow as the filter fills up with particles and debris it has screened out. Each
application is different so in certain situations the filter will need to screen
more sand and debris. In these cases the filter will need to be changed more
frequently.
Also check the valve at the bottom of the sand filter to see how much fluid is
in the base. If your sand filter fills up with fluid; the flow of gas through the
filter will also be affected.
Gas Inlet Pressure Gauge-In a Sense
the Sand Filter Outlet Pressure
Gas Line Exit to
the Sand Filter
Pressure Gauge
or
Sand Filter Inlet
Pressure Gauge

Be aware for sizeable

differences in pressure
between the two gauges.

Refer to the maintenance section for instructions on how to change the filter
in the sand filter.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the filter is blocked enough, it may keep the inlet pressure low enough to
cause the HGC to not run properly. Also if the cause was fluid in the filter,
if any managed to make it into the throttle body, the engine would not run
correctly.

121

Problem

Stage 1 Pressure is Higher than Stage 2

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

In most cases this is not a problem, but this is a topic well cover to show
why.
Scenario 5 In this scenario we are pumping down the backside
When you start pumping, the casing pressure is less than 100 psi. Stage 2 is
not building more pressure than the first stage. As you watch the inter-stage
pressure gauge, the pressure at stage 1 is higher than stage 2.

Possible Causes

Solution

The resistance pressure is not high enough to cause stage 2 to build up more
pressure

The only course of action is to let the HGC continue to run and build
pressure down the well. Until the well increases pressure and provides
enough resistance, the pressure built up in stage 1 will be enough to push
down and build pressure down the well.
This means that since the well pressure is low, the gas from stage 1 will in a
sense bypass stage 2 and be discharged. This is due to gas from stage 1
getting pushed into stage 2, but since the well pressure is lower than this
pressure, stage 2 will not build pressure until the well is pressured up.
Once the well pressure is higher and gives enough resistance, the second
stage will be held back so that it builds more pressure than stage 1.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No components will be affected by this.

122

Problem

Murphy Pressure Gauge Not Reading Hydraulic Pressures

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

All three of the Murphy pressure gauges are the same, this will apply to all
of them. If you see that the needle is not moving or it is stuck at a certain
spot.
Scenario 6aAfter the initial setup you get the HGC started. Once you begin pumping,
you see that one or more of the Murphy pressure gauges are not registering
any pressure.
Scenario 6bYou have a faulty hydraulic hose within the Murphy box, you install the new
hose but forget to open the pulsation dampeners back up when finished.

Possible Causes

Pulsation Dampeners Restricting Fluid

Find Source and

Solution

Begin by checking all of the needle valves leading to the gauges. If they are
closed all the way, they will not let fluid get to the gauges. No pressure will
build or be displayed since fluid is not making it to the gauge.
It is recommended to close the needle valves when traveling with the HGC
Hi/Lo Pulsation
Dampener

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Pulsation Dampeners in
Compressor Box

If the pulsation dampener on the Hi/Lo gauge controlling the pump is closed,
then the second pump cant be set to assist the first. This will not damage any
components if the first pump is providing the fluid to the compressor. If the
second pump was assisting the first when the valve was closed, the gauge would
not tell the solenoid to open and both pumps would be running the compressor
all the time. This would wear out the pumps faster, and be hard on the engine.
If the needle valves in the Murphy box on the compressor are closed, the
solenoid will not know when to shift stages. The pressure will continue to build
until the relief valve opens on the directional controller. It should not damage
any components if run like this for a brief period.
123

Problem

Piston is Hitting Harder Than it Should When Changing Stages

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the compressor runs, when one stage is compressing, the opposite stage
is being pushed back to its starting position. The pistons are designed to
slow down and minimize the impact with the ram tube. The flow poppets
regulate the speed by restricting the amount of hydraulic fluid coming back
to the directional controller.
Scenario 7
The HGC is running, each time the compressor shifts stages, you notice the
trailer moves and the bang from the piston is rather loud.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

The flow poppets

Hydraulic fluid heated up and is flowing differently
There are a few adjustments you can make to smooth out the shifting
between stages. First is to adjust the needle valves on the Murphys, by
doing this you can effect the duration of the stroke making it shift easier.
Next is to adjust the flow poppets on the directional controller. Refer to the
Maintenance section for the proper procedure.
Also to make it run more smoothly, you can adjust your settings on the
Murphy pressure gauges. By changing the strokes per minute, you can slow
it down or speed it up to change how often and hard it shifts.
For example if you have the Murphy set to have both pumps powering the
compressor, you can decrease the settings to slow down the strokes per
minute. You could also set it to have only the first pump running the
compressor, this will also slow down the compressor.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

With the piston hitting harder than it should, can cause increased wear and
shorten the lifespan of the internal components of the compressor.

124

Problem

Engine is Overheating

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Monitor the engine temperature gauge and determine if it is getting to the

maximum temperature. On the gauge there is a red line that marks where
the maximum temperature is set at. If the gauge reaches that point, the HGC
will go into standby mode and then shut down the engine.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Low Coolant Level

Coolant needs to be replaced
Water pump
Thermostat
Belt loose or flopping
Outside radiator needs cleaning
Over Flow Reservoir
Start by checking the level of coolant, if it is low, fill it up to the correct
level. Also determine if there was a cause for the the coolant to be low.
Look over the engine to see if you spot any coolant leaks, there would be
areas on the skid collecting it so if it is leaking it should be rather noticeable.

Key areas to check for leaks if you see coolant collecting in the skid.
Upper radiator hose
Thermostat Housing
Water pump
Radiator
Over Flow Reservoir
Lower radiator hose

If the thermostat or water pump are not working correctly, the engine will overheat. If the thermostat
is stuck or wore out and it stays closed, the engine would overheat. If the water pump wasnt moving
the coolant the engine would overheat. Both can also leak if cracked or the gaskets wore out.
If the coolant needs to be replaced, refer to the Maintenance Section on how to flush the coolant.
Check the front of the radiator to make sure it is clean of debris or material. If too much is stuck to the
front, it will not allow enough air to pass through the radiator to cool the core and the coolant.
If the belt is loose it will not properly turn the fan. If the fan is not pulling air through, the radiator will
not cool correctly and cause the engine to overheat.
Components
Affected by the
Problem

A lot can go wrong if the engine is over heating. Be very careful not to run
the engine out of coolant, doing so can cause the engine to lock up and do
serious damage to the engine.
125

Problem
How to Determine
This is the
Problem

The Inter-Stage Pressure Builds to a Certain Pressure and Stays at That

Pressure
As the HGC is running it appears to go into standby mode, but when you
look at the inter-stage pressure gauge, it is holding at a certain pressure.
Scenario 9
You are running the HGC and suddenly it sounds like it went into standby
mode. After you check all the kill switches and determine that they are all
working, you see that the inter-stage pressure gauge is holding at a certain
pressure.
You trip the Murphy gauge so that it changes stages. It goes through stage 1
normally and shifts to stage 2. It seems to be running correctly until it gets
to a certain pressure where it stops and holds there. After several cycles of
doing this and seeing that it stops at the same pressure each time, you will
need to diagnose the problem

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Directional controller relief valve

Internal components of compressor
Piston
Rings on Hydraulic Piston Head
Pump malfunction
One possible cause is the pump not working correctly. If somehow the
pump is run dry or without enough fluid, only a few seconds are needed to
ruin a pump. Also if there is a spike of pressure it can actually force the
gears over to cause them to hit the pump casing, this will also ruin the pump
extremely fast.
If the gears inside the pump do happen to hit or rub the housing then it can
grind off enough of the inner wall to cause the gears to just spin and not
force the fluid through at the high pressures. The specifications on the gear
pumps are very exact, any change no matter how miner can affect the pump
greatly.
Refer to the Maintenance section on How to Test and Inspect the Pump
Once you determine that the pump is set and operating correctly, move on to
the next possible cause, the piston or rider bands are not working.
After normal use the rings begin to wear down. If they are worn down too
much they will let fluid slip by and prevent the compressor from building
enough pressure. Also if there are any defects in the piston, for example a
crack, this will allow fluid through and prevent the compressor from
building pressure.
Refer to the maintenance section on for instructions on how to remove
the piston and rings.
126

127

Problem

Leaking Fluid

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

In some cases it will be simple to determine what and where the fluid is
leaking. Other leaks may be more difficult to find. If there are obvious
puddles collecting in the skid it will be easy to determine what is leaking,
now youll need to find the source of the leak.
Scenario 10a
Looking over the HGC, you notice a small amount of hydraulic oil
accumulating in the skid. You trace the source back to a fitting on a
hydraulic hose.
Scenario 10b
You are checking over the HGC when you see that the engine oil reservoir
had steadily continued to go down. You replace the lost fluid, and the next
time you check it, the level is down again. There must be a leak for the level
to continue to go down.
Both scenarios can be applied to each separate type of fluid used in the
HGC.

Possible Causes

Loose Fitting
Worn out Gasket
Cracked or broken pipe or fitting

Find Source and

Solution

Common Areas for Leaks:

Hydraulic Fittings
Coolant system on engine
O-rings on directional controller
Gaskets
Engine Oil

Never get to close to a leak

with the HGC running, the
high pressures can turn it into
a cutting force.

Best case scenario, if you have a noticeable leak you will be able to simply tighten a fitting or bolt to
stop the leak. If that doesnt work inspect area more closely with the HGC off, a leak at 3000 psi can
turn into a cutting force, so never get to close to it while the HGC is running. If the fitting is not
cracked but tightening is not helping, disconnect the fitting and reapply teflon and pipe dope to see it
that will stop the leak. If after a closer inspection you find a cracked or broke piece, replace it to stop
the leak.
If you trace the leak back to a gasket, depending on the gasket, you should be able to replace the
gasket or o-ring. If you replace a gasket be sure to properly clean the two mating surfaces.
If the leak is something more serious like a head gasket on the engine, consult with Permian Energy on
proper course of action.
Components
Affected by the
Problem

Any type of fluid leak can become a serious problem. If it occurs along the
hydraulics, it can hinder how well the HGC operates. If the fluids get low
on the engine there are chances that major damage will occur from
overheating or improper lubrication.

128

Problem

The HGC Stays in Standby Mode

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Standby mode is when the engine is running and circulating fluid to the
directional controller which allows the fluid to travel to the whole
compressor. This is the mode when you first start the engine and the pump
is only moving fluid, not building pressure in the compressor.
There are numerous reasons why the HGC will go into or stay in standby
mode, most of these reasons are safety measures built into the HGC to
prevent or keep damage to a minimum.
Scenario 11a
You are ready to flip the switch and start pumping with the HGC, as you do
nothing happens, the unit just stays in standby mode. You try again but
nothing, now you need to find the cause.
Scenario 11b
You have the HGC running and pumping down the well, when without
doing anything it goes into standby. You move all the gauges to their
starting positions and try to run the HGC again but it stays in standby.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Inlet Pressure Switch

Relays
Mechanical or electrical problems
Hydraulic Oil Temperature
If you have scenario 11a, the first step is to check all of the kill switches that
put the HGC in standby mode. The inlet pressure switch is the most likely
cause, remove the cover and if the contacts dont stay down you dont have
enough gas pressure. The HGC requires a minimum of 40 psi, that is where
the switch is set, if it is below 40 psi the switch puts the HGC into standby
until the pressure is high enough.
The other kill switch that will put the HGC into standby mode is the
hydraulic oil temperature gauge. If the hydraulic oil gets to the max setting
on the gauge, the HGC will go into standby while the hydraulic oil circulates
and cools. Monitor the hydraulic temperature gauge on the control box to
see if the fluid is overheating or not.
After you have checked the kill switches, inspect the relays inside the
electronic control box. Test them to make sure they are latching correctly
and shifting back and forth as they should. If one of the relays gets stuck ina
certain position it can keep the HGC in standby.

129

Find Source and

Solution
Continued

If you have scenario 11b, if possible try to remember if anything specific

happened before it went to standby. A pressure spike, weird noise, there
may not have been anything noticeably different, but try to note if there was.
Start with the same checks we went over for scenario 11a. If all of those
check out and appear working correctly, we will need to determine if the
problem is mechanical or electrical.
If you can determine whether it is mechanical or electrical will speed up and
narrow down your options of possible causes. Start with the HGC off, open
the control box and disconnect the oil pressure gauge wire, you may need to
prop open the pressure switch. This will eliminate the initial kill position so
we can test the other components.
Once you disconnect the wire flip the switch to the pump position to provide
power to the components. The first thing to check is the Hi/Lo Murphy
gauge, if you move the contacts and touch the needle, you can determine if
the relay and gauge are working.
Next check the pressure switch to determine if the switch and the relay are
working correctly. Do this by opening and closing the contacts of the
pressure switch, as you do, the relay should switch back and forth.
After the inlet pressure switch, you need to check the directional controller
and relay box. As you move the Murphy gauges in the Murphy Box and
switch stages, the lights on the solenoid wires should be on and switch
corresponding to which stage you have it set to. Also the lights in the relay
box should be lit as well and switching as you make contact and switch
stages with the gauges.
If you are able to get all of the switches, gauges and other components to
work correctly there is something else wrong with the HGC if it stays in
standby. If you narrow it down to being electrical, trace back the wiring and
try to determine the cause. If it is mechanical, test each component
independently to find the cause. If you change multiple parts and then it
works, you wont know which one for sure was the problem. Be sure to test
each independently to find the source.
If a more serious problem is found, contact Permian Energy for more
detailed consultation.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

The HGC goes into standby as a safety measure to prevent or keep damage
to a minimum. Because the HGC is going to standby may mean something
is wrong, but going into standby and staying there should not affect any
components.

130

Problem

Engine Will Not Start

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Scenario 12a
Going through the start-up process, you have the switch on Standby and
press the Start button. Nothing happens after multiple attempts.
Scenario 12b
Same as the first scenario but when the Start button is pressed, the engine
attempts to turn over but will not start. There may also be a clicking noise.
Scenario 12c
The HGC has been running for a extended period of time and then it shuts
down, tripping a kill switch.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Inlet Gas Pressure

Hydraulic Oil Level
Battery
Engine Temperature Gauge
Pump Locked Up

Starter
Engine Oil Level
Engine Oil Pressure
Gas Temperature Gauge

Start by checking the valves on your inlet gas lines, make sure they are open
and enough gas is reaching the engine. After all the inlet gas valves have
been checked, begin checking the kill switches.
When starting the engine you need to hold down the oil pressure over ride
button on the bottom of the control box. If you simply push the start button,
the engine will shut down due to the oil pressure being too low. You have to
hold the over ride button until the needle on the oil pressure gauge goes past
the red mark.

Oil Pressure
Override Button

The next switch to check is the hydraulic fluid level in the reservoir on the
compressor. If it is low enough it will kill the engine so it doesnt try to
circulate the hydraulic oil.
Hydraulic Oil Float

Murphy Level Maintainer

If the engine has not been level and the engine oil has shifted so that the Murphy level
maintainer is low, it will kill the engine, or prevent it from starting. If there are no leaks and
you know the engine oil is full, try loosening the two bolts holding the level maintainer, and
sliding it down. The bracket has slots that the bolts can slide in. When you lower the Murphy
level maintainer, oil should fill back in. Once it is full again you can start the engine.
131

132

Problem

HGC is Not Building Gas Pressure

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

There would signs of the HGC not being able to build or hold gas pressure.
The hydraulic oil pressure may also remain low, keeping the pistons from
building gas pressure.
Scenario 13a
You start pumping with the compressor, the inter-stage gas pressure gauge is
not reaching the pressures it should. You notice the inlet gas pressure gauge
is increasing and decreasing abnormally.
Scenario 13b
You begin pumping, but the hydraulic pressure stays low preventing you
from increasing the gas pressure to the needed amount. You feel the
hydraulic hoses connected to the pump, and it feels like very little fluid is
traveling through.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Gears are spinning but not pumping

Flywheel coupler inside bell housing is not lined up correctly
Ball Check in the Yoke
Start by checking the pump, feel the pump to see if you can feel the gears
spinning and moving fluid. If you can feel the gears moving, next feel the
hydraulic hose that connects the pump to the directional controller to see if
fluid is flowing through it.
If you feel the gears in the pump spinning but not much fluid going through
the hoses, then there is an internal reason why its not pushing fluid. If there
happened to be pressure spikes, it is possible for there to be enough force to
move the gears slightly. If this happens the gears will hit the inner housing
of the pump.
The clearances and tolerances within the pump are very exact. If there were
to be contact between the gears and the inner housing, no matter how small
the damage, it will greatly impact the pump performance. Even if the inner
housing is ground down a miniscule amount, it will not allow the pump to
function the way it was designed, and therefore wont pump fluid as it
should.

Force from a pressure spike

can be enough to jar and
move the gear

If the gear hits the

housing, the gear will
grind it down and cause
the pump to function
poorly

133

Find Source and

Solution
Continued

Another cause for the pump not functioning as it should is the flywheel
coupler not lined up correctly with the flywheel inside the bell housing.
See Maintenance Section on how to inspect and remove the pump.
If an internal piece of the pump is the problem, contact Permian Energy.
If any of the ball checks are not working properly, the gas would not
compress or be held back as it should be. For example if the ball check on
the gas inlet was broke or worn out, it would let gas into stage 1. As stage 1
compresses and pushes the gas to stage 2, it will also push gas back out the
inlet. Since its just pushing and pulling the same gas, its not going to build
pressure. Essentially the same would happen with the other two ball checks,
the gas would just be going back and forth to different areas.
See the Maintenance section for instructions on how to remove and inspect
the ball checks
If one of the ball checks is damaged or the internal pathways of the yoke are
damaged, contact Permian Energy.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the pump is not working correctly, the rest of the HGC will not work
correctly, but no components should be damaged.

134

Problem

Engine RPM Will Not Increase at Startup

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

When you start the engine, while engine is idling and in standby mode, the
engine will not increase RPM when the throttle is increased.

Scenario 14a Without Idle Override Switch

You start the engine and start turning the speed adjustor to increase the
RPMs, but no matter how high you turn the knob, the RPMs stay at 1000.
You notice that the engine is running a little differently, so you adjust the
governor, nothing happens when you turn the gain and stability. So you
attempt to adjust the mixture going into the throttle body, again nothing
happens.
Scenario 14b Precision Governor With Idle Override Switch
You start the engine, the RPMs are around 1500. As you increase the speed
adjustor, nothing happens.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Loose or Damaged Fuse

Governor Idle Override Switch
Wiring
If your HGC has a governor idle down override switch, check it to verify
which position it is in. Flip it to the correct position and try the speed
adjustor again. If nothing still happens open the electronic control box and
inspect the fuse and wiring.

Fuse
The fuse is located to the right of the governor. Inspect it to make sure that
the fuse is still good and has not blown. If it is still good remove it and
replace it back in to insure proper contact. Also look at the wires connecting
to it to make sure one has not come loose or disconnected.
The precision governors will also have a fuse intergrated into the governor.
In the top left corner, the fuse inserts directly into the side of the governor.
To replace or inspect, push in and twist the fuse housing. This will release it
and allow you to remove the fuse.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the fuse is loose or blown, the speed adjustor wont function properly. But
there should not be any damage done to other components.

135

Problem

Engine Temperature Gauge is Moving Sporadically

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As you monitor the HGC you notice the engine temperature gauge is moving
high then dropping and continues to repeat the process.
Scenario 15
As the engine is running, the engine temperature gradually rises. After it has
been running for awhile, the temperature gauge begins to rise then fall
quickly, and keeps repeating the cycle.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Thermostat Opening and Closing

The activity of the gauge is most likely due to the thermostat in the engine,
opening and closing. The thermostat is designed to stay closed until the
coolant reaches a certain temperature. When it opens, it allows coolant to
circulate more within the engine block, thereby cooling the engine and
causing the temperature gauge to fluctuate.
The engine will shut down if it gets too warm, the oversized radiator is in place
to help maintain temperatures.
The thermostat in the 3.0L is set to open at 180F.
The thermostat in the 4.3L is set to open at 195F.
The thermostat in the 5.7L is set to open at 195F.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No components should be affected or damaged by the problem, it is the

normal operation of the engine.

136

Problem

Loud Noise From the Compressor While Pumping

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the compressor is pumping you hear a load banging noise when the
piston is either finishing a stroke near the yoke, or after it is finished and
returning to its starting position.
Scenario 16a
As stage 1 finishes and the piston is near the yoke, you keep hearing a loud
noise coming from the compressor. A loud banging noise coming from near
the yoke and it only does it as stage 1 is finishing.
Scenario 16b
When the compressor changes sides you hear a loud noise as the piston is
being forced back to its starting position.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Middle ball check seat unscrewed

Impact Dampener broke or unscrewed
If you have scenario 17a the noise is most likely the piston trying to finish
the stroke and it is hitting the ball seat and smashing it against the yoke.
Under certain situations the seat, under normal operating conditions, can
unscrew from the yoke. If it unscrews all the way out, it will fall down into
the inner cylinder on the stage 1 side. You will need to remove the yoke and
inspect it.
See the Maintenance section for instructions on how to remove and inspect
the yoke.
If you remove the yoke and see that the seat is missing, you will need to
remove the stage 1 piston to inspect it for damage.
If you have scenario 17b, the noise may be the impact dampener being
smashed between the ram tube and the hydraulic piston ram. If the impact
dampener was to break or unscrew it would fall between and get smashed as
the piston ram was being pushed back. Also, if the catcher breaks it can
cause a similar situation and same damage.
Refer to the maintenance section on how to remove and inspect the piston
assemblies.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If either the seat or the impact dampener did in fact come unscrewed, it can
cause serious damage to both the yoke and the piston.

137

Problem

HGC Shuts Down While Running or Will Not Stay Running

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

After you have started the engine, it will not stay running. As the engine is
running it shuts down without you doing anything. Also if you have the
compressor going and the HGC all of a sudden shuts down.
Scenario 17a
As the compressor is running, when much of the hydraulic fluid is in the
piston ram tube and outer cylinder, the hydraulic fluid fluctuates in the sight
glass on the reservoir. Then the HGC quickly shuts down, but quickly starts
back up. May do this several times before shutting down completely.
Scenario 17b
As the engine is running, the level of oil in the Murphy level maintainer
drops below the kill point and shuts down the HGC.
Scenario 17c
The HGC has been operating for awhile when it shuts down completely.
Going over the kill switches you see that the engine temperature gauge on
the control box is at the maximum setting and why the unit shut down.
Scenario 17d
Similar to the previous examples in that the HGC shuts down while its
running. After it shuts down you go over the kill switches. They all appear
to be within operating limits. You start the engine back up, as it idles you
see the oil pressure drop and kill the engine.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Hydraulic Oil Level

Engine Oil Level
Engine Temperature
Inlet Gas Pressure
Engine Oil Pressure
Gas Temperature
Start by checking the kill switches that will cause the engine to shut down.
First is the engine oil pressure sensor. Check the gauge to make sure the
engine oil is staying within the operating pressures.
Next is the engine oil level, if the oil level is low enough in the Murphy
level maintainer, it will shut down the engine. Check the sight glass, also
check the oil level using the dipstick on the engine.
The engine temperature is also one of the kill switches that will shut down
the engine if it gets high enough. Check the temperature gauge and sensor
to see if they are working correctly and that the coolant is not too hot.
Double check the status of the coolant to make sure it is full and still good.

138

139

Problem

Engine is Running Rough

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As you start the engine it is not running the way it should. The engine is
sputtering or bogging down while running rough.
Scenario 18
When you start the engine, it idles choppy and rough. As you increase the
RPMs, the problem gets worse, to the point the engine bogs down and
almost dies.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Fuel Mixture
Governor Settings
Liquid in the gas
Distributor Adjustment
The main contributor to the problem is most likely the air fuel mixture going
to the throttle body. You can adjust the mixture by using needle nose pliers
to turn the knob underneath the throttle body actuator.
If the fuel mixture adjustments do not completely solve the problem, then
adjustments to the governor may be needed. See the maintenance section
for procedure to adjust the governor.
If the engine is still running rough, check the drain on the sand filter to
determine the amount of liquids in the gas. If the sand filter has a lot of
liquids, some may have been making it to the throttle body and affecting
how the engine runs.
Another adjustment that can be made is adjusting the distributor. Loosen the
bolt holding the distributor, once it is loose you can move the distributor
right or left to affect the engine performance.
After the initial setup of the HGC, and the engine is adjusted to handle the
fuel gas, future adjustments most likely will not be needed.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Unless liquids are making it to the throttle body, no components should be

damaged by the problem.

140

Problem

Engine Oil is Foaming in the Sight Glass

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

After the HGC has been running for awhile, you check it and notice that the
engine oil in the sight glass of the level maintainer is foaming.
Scenario 19a
If the ball valve between the engine oil tank and the Murphy level
maintainer, remains open during travel. When you set the trailer the oil
level is high.
Scenario 19b
While filling the engine with oil, the filler neglects to consider the
accessories, such as the Premo filter and level maintainer. This could cause
them to over fill the engine oil.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Engine Oil is Over Full

Coolant leaking into the oil
Check the ball valve on the oil tank and close it. Use the oil dipstick to
check the level of oil within the engine. If it is over full drain the
appropriate amount out. This could have occurred during the last oil change
or while moving the HGC.
If the ball valve is left open while traveling and the engine overfills due to
extra oil filling in during hills when the trailer is uneven, if the engine is ran
in this condition the oil will begin to foam in the sightglass.
If the coolant is leaking into the oil, the oil in the sight glass will be milky
and discolored. Also check the dipstick for signs of coolant above the oil
mark.
If you find that coolant is in with the oil, this indicates a more serious
problem. Have a qualified automobile mechanic find the leak and determine
a course of action to fix the problem.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No components should be damaged unless the engine is ran in this condition

for an extended period of time.

141

Problem
How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Load Chirping Noise Coming From the Engine

While the HGC is running you hear a loud squeaking or chirping noise from
around the engine. As the engine works harder building pressure, the noise
gets softer. After the HGC finishes stage 2, and the engine isnt under as
much of a load, the noise is louder.
Scenario 20a
You hear a loud squeaking or chirping noise coming from around the belt.
The noise varies in loudness as the engine loads and unloads.
Scenario 20b
Similar to the first case, the noise is coming from around the belt, but this
noise is more metallic or a grinding noise.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

The belt is rubbing and making noise

Worn out pulley or idler

Move around the power pack to narrow down where the noise is coming
from. If it is the belt, you can try rubbing some soap on to it, or get some
belt noise spray at the parts store.
If those dont eliminate the problem check the tightness and condition of the
belt. If the belt is wore out and cracking badly, it should be replaced. If the
belt appears to be good move the tensioner back and forth, if it has one, to
make sure it is functioning correctly. If the belt is loose or over tight, adjust
it and see if the noise goes away. If the noise does not go away you may
want to replace the belt. If the belt or tensioner are bad, replace them as
needed.
If you determine that neither the belt or tension is the problem, remove the
belt and check the pulley that the belt runs along. By spinning them you
should be able to tell if they make any noise or dont feel smooth as they
rotate.
Refer to the Maintenance section for procedure on how to tighten or replace
the belt, if one of the pulleys or tensioner are bad, unless proficient with
automobile engine maintenance, take it to a mechanic to have repaired.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No components should be damaged by the problem, if the belt is bad or

loose it may affect the performance of the engine and its accessories. If the
pulley on the alternator or water pump go out, it will cause adverse effects to
the engine.
142

Problem

Piston Does Not Slide as it Should After Installing

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Whenever installing one of the piston assemblies, you have the compressor
put back together, you need to test the pistons alignment and movement.
Scenario 21a
You hook up an air compressor to the gas inlet on the compressor, this will
push the piston back to its starting position. Using a bar or rod long enough
to measure the length of the stroke, you attempt to push it forward after
disconnecting the air compressor. As you push the piston forward, it is
difficult to move it or the movement is real rough or choppy.
Scenario 21b
You are able to push the piston forward and it completes the stroke. When
you connect the air compressor to push the piston back, it returns, but the
catcher and impact dampener do not line up correctly.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution
Misaligned Impact
Dampener and
Catcher

Misaligned Rings
End Plate Not Lined Up
Check the edges of the end plate to make sure that it is lined up with the
flange of the compressor. If is is slid to one side it can pinch or move the
piston out of alignment, causing it not to slide as well as it should.
Try realigning the end plate and see if you can get it where it needs to be. If
this doesnt help, you will need to remove the piston assembly from the
compressor.
See the Maintenance section on how to remove and inspect the piston
assembly.

Catcher

Once the piston assembly is out, remove the ram tube and inspect all of the
rings. On the hydraulic piston head, check and make sure the proper pairs
Impact
are lined up together correctly. The dots on the rings denote the pairs, but
Dampener also show which ends of the rings should go together. If one of the rings
was not set right, it could cause the piston to catch and not move like it
should within the ram tube.
Also with the piston assembly removed from the compressor, measure the
square-ness of the end plate and the flange on the compressor. Using a large
enough square you can determine if the flange is not vertically square with
the inner cylinder. If either are off, it can force the piston either direction
and cock it enough to impair its movement.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the piston is not checked and ran with the end plate not lined up or the
rings out of position, the rings will get tore up and not seal, it will also
damage to the piston assembly and inner cylinder.
143

Problem

Bypass Filter Gasket Blows Out

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Hydrualic oil is leaking or spraying out from between the bypass filter and
the filter housing.
Scenario 22
Inspecting the unit you see that the pressure on the bypass filter gauges is
getting higher than normal. You leave it running and when you return the
next day, there is hydraulics in the skid and some got blown to the ground.
The source can be traced back to the bypass filter.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Bypass Filter gasket

will fail above 60 psi.

Bad Gasket
Spike in Bypass Pressure
Faulty Check Valve or Over Tightened
If the bypass filter gasket blows out, start by checking the oil filter to see if
maybe the gasket was to blame. Possible that oil was not placed on the new
gasket before the filter was put on. This can cause the gasket to fail before it
should.
Next verify the condition of the check valve leading to the reservoir. If it
became stuck somehow and didnt let the bypass fluid by, it would cause the
pressure to build, causing the gasket to fail. This will also happen if the
check valve is put on too tight. Depending on the type of check, if over
tightened, it will not allow the check to open all the way restricting flow and
increasing the pressure on the filter.
The bypass fluid originates in the ram tube of the piston assembly. If there
is a pressure spike, there may be a reason for the spike internally with the
piston assemblies.
Replace the filter and if it happens again, remove the piston assemblies and
inspect them for damage.
If the piston were to crack or something were to break, more hydrualic oil
would get past the rings and be forced through the bypass line. If this
happens, the weakest point in the system is the bypass filter gasket, it will
fail before anything else. The bypass fluid usually flows around 0-25 psi,
the filter will blow out above 60 psi.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No additional components should be damaged if the filter fails. There are

most likely damaged components that caused the filter to blow out. There
will be a loss of about half of the hydraulic fluid, the unit will continue to
pump until the hydraulic oil float shuts down the HGC.

144

Problem

Noticeable Difference in Inlet and Outlet Pressure of the Bypass Filter

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

The bypass filter housing has two pressure gauges that read the inlet and
outlet pressure of the bypass fluid going through the filter. The bypass
pressure is usually around 0-25 psi and the difference between the two
gauges is usually less than half a psi.
Scenario 23
Inspecting the compressor you observe the bypass filters for a short while.
In that period of time the difference between the two pressures stays several
degrees different.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Bypass Filter needs to be replaced

Gauge not calibrated correctly
How many hours has it been since the last time you replaced the bypass
filter. The filter should be replaced each time the engine oil filter is
changed, which is roughly 700 hours or once a month.
The new filter should take care of the problem. If it doesnt, one of the
gauges could have gotten out of calibration, or has changed altitude. Try
flipping the yellow tab on the top of the gauge. This opens it up and allows
the pressure to reach current atmospheric pressure.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

No components should be damaged by this problem.

145

Problem
How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Difference in Temperature of Hydraulic Oil Gauges

While monitoring the HGC you notice that the temperature of the hydraulic
oil is different between the two gauges. The gauge on the reservoir is 20-30
degrees higher than the gauge on the power pack.
The temperature within the reservoir is high enough that the oil cooler fans
should be on, but they stay off since the gauge on the power pack is still
below the set temperature that turns the fans on.
Scenario 24
The HGC has been running for several hours, when it goes into standby.
After checking the gauges you notice that the temperature gauge on the
hydraulic oil reservoir is at the mark and sent it to standby. You check the
temperature gauge on the power pack and it is much less than the
temperature of the reservoir. It is low enough that the cooler fans did not
come on.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Faulty Gauge
Faulty Sensor
Crossed Wiring
One possible reason why the hydraulic reservoir temperature is higher, is
due to the fact that the fluid being cooled by the oil cooler is being
reintroduced near the sensor in the volume tank.
Double check the setting of the temperature gauge on the compressor. If it
were to move during traveling it could move to a lower temperature that
would cause the unit to go into standby before it should. The temperature
gauge on the reservoir should be set at 210F, and the gauge on the power
pack should be set at 180F, so the fans should come on before the reservoir
gets too hot.
Verify that the temperature gauge is hooked up to the sensor correctly, and
also make sure the fans on the oil cooler come on when they are supposed
to. Use a laser thermometer to make sure the sensor is reading the correct
temperature.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the problem is not taken care of in a timely manner, it may lead to the
HGC going to standby if the reservoir keeps getting warmer than the volume
tank. No components should be damaged by the problem.

146

Problem

Hydraulic Oil is Overheating

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

The hydraulic oil is designed to operate within certain temperatures, if it

reaches a high enough temperature, it will begin to breakdown the
composition.
Scenario 25a
The HGC has been running and built pressure up to its maximum of 10001100 psi. As stage 2 finishes, it takes several seconds before it switches
stages. When it does switch, about 300 psi of gas is left in the compressor.
The hydraulic fluid heats up quickly and eventually goes to standby.
Scenario 25b
The compressor has been pumping and the Murphy pressure gauge for stage
2 is set at the maximum of 3400 psi. When the discharge pressure of the
compressor gets above 900 psi, the Murphy gauge needs to be set this high.
Although as stage 2 finishes the needle doesnt hit the second contact, or it
does but does not switch stages. This causes the hydraulic pressure to stay
high and the directional controller doesnt switch.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Hydraulic Fluid
Working the HGC too hard
Murphy pressure gauge set too high
If the Murphy pressure gauge is set at or above 3500 psi, because the
pressure relief valve opens up at that pressure, the hydraulic pressure will
not go above this. This means the needle will hit 3500 psi and not reach the
pressure needed to finish the stroke so it will stay there and continue to
pump. This means the fluid is continually trying to be forced to the same
area but has no where to go, this causes the hydraulics to get rather hot. The
Murphy pressure gauges will need to be moved down below the maximum
setting.
If the hydraulic oil is old or reused, it may become thinned out to the point,
when it heats up it will slip pas the hydraulic rings. Due to this the piston
would only reach a certain pressure, causing the hydraulics to stall and get
even hotter.
Another possibility is that if the Murphy pressure gauges are set too high, it
will make the HGC work harder than it is designed to. If it hits the max
pressure and leaves gas in the cylinder, it is very hard on the machine and
can effect the rings and the hydraulics.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Hydraulic oil ran at temperatures above 180F will reduce the service life of
the fluid and in most cases, will cause the viscosity limits of the fluid to be
exceeded. This is detrimental and should be avoided.
Depending on the severity and length the HGC runs under these situations
can lead to the hydraulic oil needing to be replaced, and also can cause
unnecessary wear to the pump and the compressor.

147

Problem

The HGC is Losing Hydraulic Fluid

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Over the course of normal use the HGC will lose a small amount of
hydraulic fluid through the discharge hose. However if the unit is losing
several gallons over a day or two, something is wrong with the HGC.
Scenario 26
While the HGC is running, the unit shuts down. You determine that the low
oil kill on the reservoir is causing the HGC to shut down, and it is in fact low
on oil. You add several gallons until the level is where it should be, but after
running it for another day, the level is low again. When you remove the
discharge hose, there is condensate and possibly hydraulic oil coming out.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Damaged Piston
Hydraulic Rings
Bypass Filter and Check
Leaks
If the bypass housing or check valve were installed wrong, it could cause the bypass
gas and fluid to remain in the inner cylinder. If enough stays within the inner
cylinders, it can slip past the rings and get pushed out the discharge, causing you to
lose hydraulic fluid.
Unless there are very noticeable leaks on the compressor, start with the bypass filter
and the check valve. The bypass filter housing should filter from the inside to the
outside. Remove the filter and inspect it to verify the exit hole on the housing is
going to the reservoir. Also depending on the HGC model, inspect the check valve
to make sure it was not over tightened and preventing fluid from going to the
reservoir.
After you have checked those and verified that they are correct, the next option is to
inspect the piston assemblies. If there are indications that a particular side is
damaged, start with that piston.
See the Maintenance section on proper instructions on how to remove and inspect
the piston assemblies.

Ring Thicknesses
Minimum:
Maximum:

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Remove the piston and inspect it for any lose or damaged pieces. If pieces came
loose it would allow fluid into the inner cylinder instead of the ram tube. Check the
ram and piston heads for damage, under certain situations the piston has cracked and
when it cracks, it will leak hydraulic oil past the ram tube into the inner cylinder.
With the piston apart, check the rings to make sure they have not worn out. If the
rings are worn down or damaged, you will need to replace them. See the the parts
list in the Appendix for appropriate part numbers.
If any components are damaged, they were damaged before the problem
started and were mostly likely the reason for the issue, but no further
damage should occur to the HGC if the hydraulic level becomes low.
148

Problem

Hydraulic Oil Float is Not Operating Correctly

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

If the HGC keeps shutting down due to the low hydraulic oil kill, even
though to know that the hydraulic level is where it should be.
Scenario 27a
You have made sure that the hydraulic oil level is at the proper amount but
the unit keeps shutting down due the the float making contact. With the
cover removed from the float, you watch as the HGC runs, without the float
moving the contact trips the sensor and kills the unit.
Scenario 27b
Similar to the first scenario, with the cover off of the float and the unit
running, the float keeps tripping the sensor and will not stay up after you
press down on it to force it up.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Bad Float
Moisture in the Float
All of the electrical conduit should be sealed and watertight. Although, if
moisture from rain made it into the conduit, it could make its way down the
the inside of the hydraulic oil float.
If water or moisture gets inside the float, it can cause the wiring to think the
float is down and kill the unit. By unscrewing the cover you will see right
away if water is in the housing.
Once water is inside the housing you will need to dry it out and spray some
electrical connector cleaner inside to ensure the wiring will work properly.
Also go over the conduit to find any possible leaks and replace it if
necessary.
If the internals are good and dry, test the float to make sure it is working
properly, if not, you may need to replace the float.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the float is not working properly, if the oil level does get too low and it
doesnt kill the engine, it will burn up the pumps. The float is a key
monitoring device that needs to work correctly.

149

Problem

When Stage 2 Finishes, It Shifts Twice

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

If the HGC keeps shutting down due to the low hydraulic oil kill, even
though to know that the hydraulic level is where it should be.
Scenario 28
You are pumping down the casing and are nearing the maximum pressure of
the HGC. The Murphy pressure gauge is set just below the max setting. As
the compressor builds pressure, it gets close to shifting, then it looks like it
shifted, but the pressure only went down to around 2000 psi, then it quickly
pressures up and shifts again.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Solenoid
Relay Box
Murphy Gauge
Could be a malfunction of the relay box. If it is not operating properly, it is
possible that when the needle makes contact on stage 2, the relay box
automatically switches past stage 1. The relay box would be able to switch
fast enough that you wouldnt see it and would seem to stay on stage 2.
This could be caused by a short or damaged piece within the relay box. If it
is determined to be the relay box, contact Natcom.
Since the unit is running near its max pressure, it is working very hard. If
you are pumping down a well there may be the possibility that once you
have it pressure up, the HGC pressure overcomes the resistance pressure
before it finishes the stroke, then pressures up quickly again. If the
resistance gives way for a second then stops, for instance if pumping against
a salt plug, it may move or give for a second but catches again. Note it is
rather hard on the machine and not recommended to be run in this state.
May need to remove and inspect the solenoid. There is the possibility that
some material could find its way through the hydraulics and got lodged
within the solenoid. This would cause the solenoid to function wrong if one
of the pathways was blocked or making it think it had already pressured up.
A similar result would occur if one of the Murphy gauges was bad. A faulty
Murphy gauge would shift when it was not supposed to, causing it to appear
to shift twice. Or if stage 1 gauge was sending a signal right away causing it
to think it pressured up stage 1 when it didnt. The relay box would skip
right over stage 1 if it was receiving the signal to change stages.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the HGC continues to run in this condition it would cause unnecessary

wear and damage to the internal components of the compressor.

150

Problem

Noise Coming From the Pump

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the engine runs there is a unusual noise coming from the area of the
pumps.
Scenario 29a
There is a fairly loud noise coming from the pump, as the engine runs, it
sounds like there are a bunch of marbles rattling around in the pump
housing.
Scenario 29b
Similar to the first scenario, but the noise is a loud whining noise when the
engine unloads. It is the loudest after stage 2 finishes.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

New pump needs to wear in

The pump is cavitating not getting enough fluid
Flywheel adapter loose
In the case of the pump making a whining or squeaking noise, if the pump is
new and does not have much run time on it, it most likely needs to wear in.
The noise will go away after the engine has ran for awhile.
If the noise sounds like marbles are being smashed and rattling around inside
the pump, then it is most likely not receiving enough hydraulic oil. When
there isnt enough fluid reaching the pump, it will cavitate. This will
damage the gears and the internal pieces of the pump.
After checking the pump to verify it is getting enough fluid, you may need
to remove the pump from the bell housing and inspect the flywheel adapter.
It is a possibility that the flywheel adapter worked itself loose and is not
tight against the flywheel.
By sliding the pump away from the adapter plate and bell housing you can
determine if the adapter has moved at all.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

The pump may already be damaged and that is why its making noise, but if
it is cavitating or the adapter has moved, there could be extensive damage to
the pump and possibly the engine.

151

Problem
How to Determine
This is the
Problem

Murphy Pressure Gauge Needle Contact Wear Spot

As the HGC is pumping; if you watch the Murphy pressure gauges, as the
needle is making contact, electricity is making the fluid inside the gauge
bubble.
Scenario 30
While the HGC is running, you see that the fluid inside the Murphy pressure
gauge has darkened. When you look closer at the gauge you notice that
there are bubbles rising from the contacts when the needle touches them.

Possible Causes
Find Source and
Solution

Flyback voltage
This issue has been since resolved and should be pose a problem to future
HGC models. It is being discussed as a possibility but should not occur.
The solution is made by incorporating flyback resistors in the connectors on
the directional controller solenoid. Also diodes are placed before the Hi/Lo
Murphy pressure gauge. It is more likely to occur on the Hi/Lo pressure
gauge and is more noticeable on that gauge.
You can tell that this is a problem by also looking at the needle within the
gauge. After an extended period of use, you will see some darker spots
along the edge of the needle. If the contacts on the gauge are never moved
this could cause an issue with the needle properly making contact. You will
need to move the contacts slightly so that the needle doesnt strike the exact
same spot forever.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

There should be any affects or damage to other components. It will affect

how well the Murphy pressure gauges operate and can become difficult to
read the numbers on the face of the gauge.

152

Problem

Pressure Spike Within the Outer Cylinder

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the HGC is pumping you notice the pressure gauge on the outer cylinder
is spiking as the compressor shifts stages.
The normal operating range for the pressure in the outer cylinder is
under 30 psi
Scenario 31
After the HGC has been pumping for awhile, it sounds like the compressor
is changing stages pretty hard. While inspecting the compressor you notice
that the pressure gauge on the outer cylinder is spiking during stage changes.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Restriction in Filter Section possible clogged filter

Blockage between ram tube and end plate
Directional Controller
Piston Gas Head sticking due to rings
Begin by adjusting the flow poppets on the directional controller. If no
improvement can be seen, continue to the pistons. Using an air compressor
or while it is hooked up to the well, use the gas to force the pistons back to
there starting positions.
Remove the pressure in the compressor and disconnect the hydraulic hoses
on the end plates. Test the movement of the pistons to verify that they are
not getting stuck or impeded. With the hoses off the end plate you should be
able to determine if there is any damage or a blockage between the end plate
and the ram tube. You may need to slide the end plate out and inspect the
ram tube closer.
If there are no problems with the movement of the pistons, drain the filter
section of the reservoir and inspect the filters and the pipe connecting both
sections of the reservoir.
After you have checked and inspected both the pistons and filter section, the
last component would be the directional controller. Since you have already
adjusted the flow poppets and it did not improve; you will need to remove
the poppets and inspect them for damage.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Depending on the gauge and the pressure spikes you may blow a gauge and
lose hydraulic fluid. Also if the pressure of the outer cylinder is high, it
means the compressor has to work harder to push the pistons back, making
the HGC inefficient.

153

Problem

Engine Speed Fluctuates and Over Speeds

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

After the engine has run for a set time it speeds up and does not decrease or
shut down. Could also happen at the start up of the engine.
Scenario 32a
Upon trying to start the engine it cranks over and speeds up past 3500 RPMs
and doesnt shut down like it should. Quickly turn off the engine.
Scenario 32b
The HGC has been running and after awhile the engine would speed up and
slow down. It would not steady uot and keeps getting faster until you need
to shut it down.

Possible Causes

Find Source and

Solution

Magnetic Pick-up
Pump Cavitating
Governor Speed Controller
Can unscrew the magnetic pickup out of the bell housing and inspect the end
for metal shavings, or any other damage to the end of the pickup. If there
are materials stuck to the end of the pickup, clear the metal shavings and
check for other damage. If no other signs can be observed, screw the pickup
back into the bell housing.
Tighten the pickup until it is touching the flywheel teeth; then back out the
pickup 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. After locking the pickup in position by tightening
the lock nut, you can start the engine to see if this helps.
The mag pickup input (yellow) should read at least 4.0 Vac while the engine
is running. 8 to 10 volts would be preferable. This signal is a AC signal and
the frequency is dependant on the engine speed, but should be 1-10 khz.
If the engine situation is not helped, the next step is to check the governor.
If the engine cannot achieve set speed, measure the actuator voltage. Near
the battery voltage means the controller is trying to open the throttle but the
engine is not responding. Check the engine, lead, and throttle body.
If the voltage reads near 0, the controller is not trying to open the throttle.
This could be caused by a missing mag pickup signal, a previous over speed
or under speed condition, or the engine going above the set speed (check the
idle screw or governor speed adjustment).
If the engine is going above set speed for more than a brief period of time,
measure the voltage. A measurement of zero indicates the governor has
tried to close the throttle. The throttle may be stuck or the idle screw set too
high. If the controller continues to have voltage when going to fast, the
controller may have a problem. Turn the system off and re-power the
controller. If voltage is present after 10 seconds, the controllers output
circuit may be defective.
154

155

Problem

Chattering or Buzzing From the Yoke

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

As the HGC is pumping you notice the pressure gauge on the outer cylinder
is spiking as the compressor shifts stages.
The normal operating range for the pressure in the outer cylinder is
under 30 psi
Scenario 33
While the HGC is compressing, when it changes stages a buzzing noise is
heard.

Possible Causes
Find Source and
Solution

Components
Affected by the
Problem

Ball Within the Yoke Spinning

This is not a common issue but should stop after a couple of strokes. This is
caused by the ball leaving the seat and the gas traveling past spins the ball
making he buzzing noise.

No components should be affected unless the buzzing continues for a long

period of time.

156

Problem

Gas Temperature Over Heating

How to Determine
This is the
Problem

The discharge gas temperature gauge at the top of the compressor reaches
the set maximum value of 400F, when the needle makes contact, it shuts
down the compressor and engine.
Scenario 34
As the unit runs and builds pressure the hydraulic and gas temperature will
increase. The temperature gauge gradually increases until it reaches the shut
down point of 400F.

Possible Causes
Find Source and
Solution

Low Inlet and High Discharge Pressures

Raises the inlet pressure so the HGC does not go through as many ratios of
compression. For each ratio, the temperature will increase roughly 54 F.
If the first stage hydraulic pressure is set low, increase it to 3000 to ensure
that the complete stroke is made. This will cool the system down some
since the second stage wont have to do as much work.
If the inlet pressure is too low. Ideally it should be above 40 psi to move the
first stage piston all the way back. With the inlet this low, the gas will
undergo the maximum number of ratios if the discharge pressure is high and
this will cause the gas temperature to heat up over the maximum
temperature.
Another cause of high temperature with the low inlet pressure is that it may
not push the first cylinder all the way back to its starting position. This will
increase the temperature because the heat can not be dissipated through the
other cylinder as the piston is pushed back.

Components
Affected by the
Problem

If the gas temperature is ignored and goes over the maximum temperature
and continues to operate, the rings on the gas piston head will deteriorate
and cause replacement of the rings.

157

158

Appendix
Overview

Glossary
Wiring Diagrams
Component Manufacturers Literature
HGC Statistics
Parts List
Tool List
Frequently Asked Questions

159

Glossary
Adjustable Relief Valve

Alternator

valve at the top of the vent stack that is used to regulate the pressure on the hydraulic
reservoir, keeping the pressure between 5 10 psi.
an electric generator that produces alternating current.

Back-up Gas

the gas that is vented from the compressor through the vent stack. It is also routed to
the power pack as a fuel gas supply.

Ball Check

a check valve in which a metal ball is limited in movement to either allow or restrict
the movement of gas.

Ball Seat
Ball Valve

Barrel
Battery

Battery Box
Battery Terminals
Bucket
Bypass Filter

The base that the ball fits against as it restricts flow past the ball in the check.
a valve controlling flow by means of a ball pierced with an opening in one direction
and fixed to rotate on a spindle at right angles to the opening.
metal or plastic 55 gallon container
a combination of two or more cells electrically connected to work together to produce
electric energy.
container that holds the battery
a post or lug on a battery to which a jumper cable may be attached.
a water tight cylinder with an open top and flat bottom, used to hold fluid.
filters the bypass oil before it enters the hydraulic oil reservoir.

Bypass Gas

gas that has made it past the rings and flows to the reservoir before being vented or
used as back-up gas.

Bypass Oil

oil that is pushed out of the ram tube through the end plate to the bypass line, it is
filtered before going back into the hydraulic oil reservoir.

Cage

expanded metal that surrounds the extremely hot and moving parts of the engine.

Cam Lock
Carburetor/Throttle Body

Casing
Casing Pressure

Fittings on the ends of the hoses going to and from the sand filter.
a device for mixing vaporized fuel with air to produce a combustible or explosive
mixture, as for an internal-combustion engine.
metal pipe or tube used as a lining for a water, oil, or gas well.
the exertion of force upon the casing.

160

Centralizing Collar

bands of metal that are placed over the end of the piston ram tube receiving cylinder
that keep the piston ram centered within the ram tube. They also provide support
when the piston is fully extended.

Component

a part of a mechanical or electrical system

Compressor

a mechanical device that compresses gasses

Compressor Box
Conduit

housing on the compressor that contains the Murphy pressure gauges and wiring.
weather tight material that the wires are housed in as they connect components.

Connection Cord

cord of wires that connects the compressor and the control box on the power pack.

Coolant

an agent that produces cooling, especially a fluid that draws off heat by circulating
through an engine or by bathing a mechanical part.

Coolant Overflow

Directional Controller
Divider
Electronic Control Box
End Plate

Engine Oil
Exhaust
Flange
Flywheel

Flywheel Adapter

reservoir attached to the side of the radiator that holds any coolant that over flows out
of the radiator.
controls the direction of hydraulic oil flowing throughout the compressor.
separates the filter section and reservoir sections of the hydraulic oil reservoir.
housing for the controls and gauges that monitor and run the power pack.
the plate on both ends of the compressor cylinder that the ram tube bolts to. The end
plate is bolted to the flange on the outer cylinder.
oil that circulates and lubricates the engine.
flue gas which occurs as a result of combustion of the natural gas fuel in the engine.
bolt type plate that holds the end of the cylinder together.
steadies the rotation of the shaft when a fluctuating torque is exerted on it by its power
source.
component of the pump assembly that bolts to the flywheel in the bell housing.

Gas Inlet Assembly

assembly where the fuel gas enters the power pack and knocks out any remaining
liquids and regulates the fuel gas.

Gasket

any of a wide variety of seals or packing used between matched machine parts or
around pipe joints to prevent the escape of a gas or fluid.

Gas Lift

process used to artificially lift oil or water from wells where there is insufficient
reservoir pressure to produce the well. The process involves injecting gas or through
the tubing-casing annulus. Injected gas aerates the fluid to make it less dense; the
formation pressure is then able to lift the oil column and forces the fluid out of the
wellbore. Gas may be injected continuously or intermittently, depending on the
producing characteristics of the well and the arrangement of the gas-lift equipment.
161

Governor/Throttle Control

Hydraulics

a device for maintaining uniform speed regardless of changes of load, as by regulating

the supply of fuel or working fluid.
operated by, moved by, or employing water or other liquids in motion.

Hydraulic Inlet Assembly

assembly where the hydraulic oil enters the power pack and is sent to the pump or oil
cooler.

Hydraulic Oil Cooler

device that allows the hydraulic oil to flow through it and in the process cools the oil.

Impact Dampener

Impact Dampener Catcher

bullet at the end of the piston assembly that uses hydraulic oil to dampen the impact of
the hydraulic piston head hitting the ram tube.
along with the impact dampener bullet, the catcher creates a choke with the hydraulic
oil that dampens and slows the piston.

Inner Cylinder

cylinder within the compressor that is joined at the yoke, the gas piston head slides
and compresses the gas within the inner cylinder.

Kimray

a throttle valve mechanism used to regulate the gas pressure coming into the HGC.

Make-up Gas
Muffler

gas diverted from inlet gas to run the engine.

device attached to the exhaust pipe reducing the amount of noise emitted by the
engine.

Murphy Level Maintainer

device that maintains the level of oil within the engine, it ties together the oil pan and
engine oil reservoir.

Murphy Pressure Gauge

pressure gauge used to monitor the hydraulic oil within the compressor and hydraulic
manifold on the power pack.

Needle Valve

a valve with a needlelike part, a fine adjustment, or a small opening, esp. a valve in
which the opening is controlled by a needlelike or conical point that fits into a conical
seat.

Nipple

a fitting consisting of a short piece of pipe, usually provided with male pipe thread at
each end for connecting two other fittings.

Outer Cylinder

is the outer shell of the compressor that the inner cylinder lies within. This provides
cooling for the inner cylinder and the hydraulics as a portion of the hydraulic oil is
flowing between the two cylinders.

Paraffin
Piston

a mixture of liquid hydrocarbons obtained from petroleum.

a disk or cylindrical part tightly fitting and moving within a cylinder, either to
compress or move a fluid collected in the cylinder, as air or water, or to transform
energy imparted by a fluid entering or expanding inside the cylinder, as compressed
air, explosive gases, or steam, into a rectilinear motion usually transformed into rotary
motion by means of a connecting rod
162

Piston Head

a sliding piece which either is moved by, or moves against, fluid pressure. It usually
consists of a short cylinder fitting within a cylindrical vessel along which it moves,
back and forth.

Piston Ram

the section of the piston assembly that connects the hydraulic and gas piston heads.

Plunger

a machine part, such as a piston, that operates with a thrusting or plunging movement.

Poppet Valve

a valve that is raised or lowered by a vertical guide, e.g. the intake and exhaust valves
of the internal-combustion engine.

Power Pack

Premo Filtration Device

Pressure

Pulsation Dampener
Pump

Pump Adapter Plate

Pump Housing

Quick Connects

Radiator

system made up of the: engine, pump, and hydraulic manifold, control box, used to
power the compressor.
device used in conjunction with the engine oil filter to clean and extend the life of the
engine oil.
the applying of a firm regular weight or force against somebody or something. The
applying of a firm regular weight or force against somebody or something.
fitting that dampens the flow of fluid removing the hydraulic shock on the gauges.
an apparatus or machine for raising, driving, exhausting, or compressing fluids or
gases by means of a piston, plunger, or set of rotating vanes.
plate that connects to the bell housing, the pump bolts to this plate.
material where the hydraulic fluid passes through the pump where the gears compress
the fluid.
connection fittings at the end of hoses that allow the hoses to be connected without
tools in an easy manner.
a mechanism consisting of a metal honeycomb through which hot fluids circulate; heat
is transferred from the fluid through the honeycomb to the air stream that is created
either by the motion of the vehicle or by a fan.

Ram Tube

cylinder that is bolted to the end plate and houses the piston ram.

Regulator

a valve for regulating the pressure of flowing gas or liquid to maintain a

predetermined pressure.

Relay

Relay Box

Relief Valve

an electronic or electromechanical switching device, typically operated by a low

voltage, that controls a higher-voltage circuit and turns it on or off.
electrical box that houses the micro relays that control the directional controller
solenoid.
a device that, when actuated by static pressure above a predetermined level, opens in
proportion to the excess above this level and reduces the pressure to it.
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Reservoir

a part of a machine or device where liquid is stored for use by the machine or device.

Resonator

attached to the exhaust system after the muffler that cancels out additional noise.

Return Line

hydraulic hose which connects the exit of the outer cylinder to the inlet of the filter
section of the hydraulic oil reservoir.

Rider Bands

composite bands that fit around the pistons that allow the ram to slide along the fluid.

Sand Filter

device containing a filter that is used to filter out particles from the gas entering the
HGC.

Sealing Rings

rings that seal the gas and hydraulic oil within the compressor, they are around both
ends of the ram.

Separator

a device for separating liquids of different specific gravities (as cream from milk) or
liquids from solids

Shifting Stages
Skid

Solenoid

Solenoid Wire

refers to when the compressor changes from stage 1 to stage 2 and back to stage 1.
number of beams constructed to provide a support base for the compressor and power
pack. Also serves as a collection area for any fluids.
a switch controlled by such an arrangement, in which a metal rod moves when the
current is turned on
wire connecting the directional controller solenoid and the relay box within the
compressor box.

Stage 1

lower pressure side of the compressor.

Stage 2

higher pressure side of the compressor.

Standby

Starter
Tattle Tale Relay

Tee
Tensioner

mode that the HGC goes into at startup and as a safety measure to prevent damage, in
this mode it runs only the engine while it circulates hydraulic oil waiting to have the
compressor started.
a device that starts an internal-combustion engine.
electrical load carrying devices for the alarm or shut down device, indicating which
monitored function failed, leading to the shutdown.
a T-shaped fitting with two outlets at 90 from the inlet.
a device to provide and maintain adequate tension on the engine belt.

Timer

a switch or regulator that controls or activates and deactivates another mechanism at

set times.

Tubing

a hollow, usually cylindrical body of metal, glass, rubber, or other material, used esp.
for conveying or containing liquids or gases.
164

Tubing Pressure
Vent Stack

Wellhead
Wiper Bands

Yoke

the exertion of force upon the tubing.

section of pipe connected to the oil reservoir that contains demister material, provides
a means for the bypass gas to be vented from the compressor to maintain a set
pressure.
the structure built over a well.
band around the piston ram that acts like a wiper blade for the gas and hydraulic oil
within the inner cylinder.
a clamp or vise that holds a machine part in place or controls its movement or that
holds two such parts together.

165

Wiring Diagrams

Version 3
Version 4

Version 3

Inside the Compressor Box Terminal Strip

T1. 12 Volts + from Battery
T2. 12 Volts + from Switch
T3. 12 Volts + from Jumper from T2
T5. Premo / Distributor
T6. Push to Start
T7. Shutdowns Engine Oil Pressure, Water Temp, Low Engine Oil
Low Hydraulic Oil
T8. Standby Hydraulic Oil Temperature, Inlet Pressure
T9. Hi/Lo Switch A
T10. Hi/Lo Switch B
T11. Hi/Lo Solenoid
T12. Power to Shifting Circuit
T13. Governor / Actuator +
T14. Governor / Actuator T15. Governor / Magnetic Pickup
T16. Tachometers Signal
T17. Hydraulic Oil Temperature Signal
T18. Engine Oil Pressure Temperature Signal
T19. Engine Water Temperature Signal
T20. Hydraulic Cooling Fans
Outside the Compressor Box
Hi/Lo Relay Box
Directional Controller Relay Box

Version 4

Inside the Electric Box

Engine Panel
Compressor Box

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HGC Statistics
Description
Power Pack Skid L x W x H
Compressor Skid L x W x H
Stage 1 Outer Cylinder Length
Stage 1 Outer Cylinder Diameter
Stage 1 Inner Cylinder Length
Stage 1 Inner Cylinder Diameter
Stage 2 Outer Cylinder Length
Stage 2 Outer Cylinder Diameter
Stage 2 Inner Cylinder Length
Stage 2 Inner Cylinder Diameter
Total Length of Compressor
Stage 1 Piston Length
Stage 1 Ram Tube Length
Stage 1 Stroke Length
Stage 2 Piston Length
Stage 2 Ram Tube Length
Stage 2 Stroke Length
Stage 1 Piston Diameter ID/OD
Stage 1 Ram Tube Diameter ID/OD
Stage 2 Piston Diameter ID/OD
Stage 2 Ram Tube Diameter ID/OD
Max Amount of MCF per Day
MCF per Day Used by Engine
Maximum Weight of Power Pack
Maximum Weight of Compressor
Hydraulic Fluid in Reservoir
Max Pressure Output
Max Inner Cylinder Pressure
Pump Model Size
Max Discharge Temperature
Max RPM
Max Inlet Gas Pressure
Minimum Inlet Gas Pressure
Max Pump Pressure
Max GPM
Maximum Second Contact on Hi/Lo
Maximum Stage 1 Murphy Setting
Maximum Stage 2 Murphy Setting
Maximum Hydraulic Temperature
Maximum Engine Temperature
Oil Cooler Fans Turn On
Relief Valve Set Pressure (DC)
Relief Valve Max Pressure (Vent Stack)
Sand Filter Maximum Pressure

HGC Model
200

80 in

20 in

200 MCF
4-5 MCF
6,000 lbs
2,000 lbs
95 gal
1000 psi
HD 20 or HD 15
375F
2600
125 psi
25 psi
4000 psi
90 gpm
2500
3000
3500
180F
210F
150F
3500 psi
20 psi
150 psi

217

Part Number List

Part Description
Air Filter
Engine Oil Filter
Sand Filter
Premo Filter
Bypass Filter
Hydraulic Reservoir Filter
Hydraulic Oil
Engine Oil
Coolant
Hi/Lo Solenoid Housing
Solenoid Coil
Cartrigage
Governor
15 amp, 8 pin Relay
70 amp, 4 pin Relay
DC Solenoid Central Housing
DC Solenoid Magnetic End
DC Solenoid Wire Connectors
Power Pack Solenoid
Regulator 1500 - 100 (Compressor)
Regulator 100-10 (Power Pack)
Murphy Pressure Gauges
Murphy Level Maintainer
Hydrualic Oil Level Float
Pulsation Dampener
Temperature Switchgage
Temperature Sender
Pressure Sender
Oil Pressure Switchgage
Tach/Hourmeter
Temperature Switch Gauge
Engine Panel
Directional Controller Relief Valve
Vent Stack Relief Valve
Engine Oil Tank
Pumps
Coupling Assembly
Speed Adjuster
Premo Re-Refiner
Starter
Battery
Alternator
Spark Plugs and Wires
Thermostat
Water Pump
Belt
Tensioner
Oil Cooler
Directional Controller
Piston Assembly and Rings

Part Numbers HGC 200

PZ-45
JPM 636-25R
LT-6S
B-99
JPM 636-25R
AW-68 / AW-48
5W30
50/50
30713 Alum
02-178178 - 12VDC
SV3-20-0-0-00
E-422P or 9458
782XMXC
70-111224
DG4V-6C-M-V-G7-60-A10-B10
P/N 507847
P5-463-1731009
P5-363-1731009
SV13-16-OP-A16H-12DPOO
24027
65899
OPLFC-S500-OS
LM200
LS200
PD8184
EGS21T-250-12
EST-250/300-1/2
ESP-100
20P7-100
ATHI-40-12-A
SDB501
W0270
52765
EVRO8VSTD
HD 2020 R-1C-US-US
123428
EV2
LT-6P
MT-58

Manufacturer
Pennzoil
Jonell Filters
Premo Lubrication
Baldwin
Jonell Filters

Motion Industries
Motion Industries
Motion Industries
Precision Governors
Magnecraft
White-Rogers
Vickers
Vickers
Motion Industries
Motion Industries
Fisher
Fisher
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Murphy
Eaton
Grainger
Fabtron
Motion Industries
Motion Industries
Madison Power Systems
Premo Lubrication
Interstate

K7056
AOMF-2-12V-MPT
XMSCD-8818
HGC200

American Industries
Bowers Equipment
Bowers Equipment

218

Tools Needed to Perform Maintenance

The tools listed here are the minimum amount of tools and supplies you will need to perform
maintenance on the HGC. A more complete tool set would be more appropriate to facilitate
working on the HGC.
Personal Protection Equipment
Hard hat
Safety glasses
Gloves
Ear/Hearing Protection
Set of Allen Wrenches
Crescent wrenches
12"
15"
24"
Pipe wrenches
12"
18"
24"
Standard and Metric Wrench Sets
Specifically:
7/16"
1/2"
9/16"
3/4"
7/8"
1"
1 1/4"
1 1/2"
Screwdrivers
Small one to adjust governor
Phillips head
Straight head

Standard and Metric Socket Sets (3/8 or 1/2)

Specifically:
7/16"
1/2"
9/16"
3/4"
7/8"
1"
1 1/4"
1 5/16" deep thin walled
Ratchets (3/8 and 1/2)
Utility knife
Needle nose pliers
Hammer
Wire brush

Supplies List
First aid kit
Oil mats
Drain pans/buckets
Teflon tape and pipe dope
WD-40
Brake or Carb Cleaner
Fittings
Tees
Nipples
Valves
Low and high pressure gauges
Hose fittings and clamps
Trash bags
Rags

Filter wrench
Pry bar

219

Frequently Asked Questions

Can the HGC handle fuel gas other than natural gas?
Yes the throttle body and the engine are designed to run on a variety of gases.
Can the HGC be automated?
Yes the HGC can be automated.
Does the HGC meet emissions standards?
Yes the HGC meets the standards of the EPA; all of the engines are validated.
Can the HGC handle sour gas?
Yes the HGC can handle sour gas; a packing gland would have to be added to the pistons.
Does the HGC use fire to get the high discharge temperatures?
The HGC is flameless and the heat generated comes from the high pressures within the compressor
and the ratios it takes to get that pressure.
How many MCF are used each day by the HGC?
The HGCs power pack only uses 4-5 MCF a day to run.
Can the HGC use an electric motor on the power pack?
Yes in situations where electricity is available, an electric motor would be able to power the pumps.
Are replacement parts readily available?
Almost all of the parts that make the HGC are off the shelf parts so replacements are available. Other
than the internal components of the compressor, the pistons and other parts that have to be machined
would have to be ordered.
How much does the HGC weigh, will you be over DOT requirements?
Depending on your model the HGCs all weigh different amounts. The 100 model weighs under 6000
lbs and the 200 weighs under 8000 lbs. Depending or your truck and trailer you may need a DOT.
Does the trailer come with the HGC?
The trailer does not come with the HGC, you have the option of buying it along with the HGC or
providing your own.
How many hours of run time between maintenance?
For basic maintenance such as filter changes, it is recommended to perform these operations every 350
hours of run time.
Can the HGC work on any well?
If the well produces enough gas so that the minimum amount of inlet gas pressure on the compressor,
then the HGC should be able to work on that well. If the well does not produce enough gas then, an
alternative gas source will be needed to have the HGC work. If electricity is available, an electric
motor can be used as the power pack.
Can the engine be worked on by local automobile mechanic?
The engine is no different than the engine in your vehicle, so if there is a major problem with the
engine, then yes a mechanic should be able to work on it.
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Do you have to use the Sand Filter?

It is recommended to use the sand filter all the time, however if you know for certain that the inlet gas
does not need to be filtered then in those situations the sand filter does not need to be used.
Where can you buy the Premo filters at?
Premo filters can only be bought from distributors for Premo. Permian Energy Services is a distributor
and will provide filters if needed.
Can the HGC run in any environment?
Yes the HGC has been tested in extremely hot and cold environments. Alterations can be made
depending on the climate.
How long can the HGC run for any one given time?
The HGC is designed to run continuously until maintenance is needed.

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