ACCIDENTS

in North American Mountaineering

2010
44 / Accidents in North American Mountaineering 2010
Stranded - Yogi-Phobia, Unfamiliar with Equipment
California, Yosemite, Half Dome
Janet (32) spent May 9 hanging out at the base of Half Dome while her
friends made an ascent of the Regular NW Face route. They had camped
there the night before and had suspended their food from a tree to keep it
from animals. At mid-day a bear wandered into camp and began sniffing for
food. Concerned about becoming lunch herself, Janet jumared up an old
fixed line to the top of the first pitch.
Eventually the bear left, but when Janet tried to descend, she found
that 30 feet of snow piled on the bottom of the rope over the winter had
stretched the line too tight to attach her rappel device. Her friends where
high on the face, not in a position to help, and she was marginally dressed
for a spring night on the wall at 7,000 feet. At 1730 Janet called the NPS.
Three SAR team members climbed the slab approach from Mirror
Lake to the base of the wall, arriving at dusk. One ascended the fixed line,
and then he and Janet rappelled on NPS ropes. They all descended the slabs
to the Valley, including Janet, who had seen one bear too many.
Analysis
Janet was a climber, but she may have lacked the experience to realize that
she could jumar down the fixed line as well as up. Her party also may not
have understood that hanging food in a tree is no longer permitted in the
park. Bear canisters are required in Wilderness areas, although they aren’t
necessary on a climbing route if the food is well beyond the reach of Yogi.
But watch out for ground squirrels (the free-solo 5.11) and ravens. Food
storage requirements, other wilderness regulations, and Leave No Trace
practices are all explained to climbers when they get their wilderness permit,
which is required for camping at the base of Half Dome.
Source: John Dill, NPS Ranger, Yosemite National Park
California / 45
Fall on Rock, Protection Pulled Out, No Helmet
California, Yosemite Valley, Church Bowl
On August 31, Tomoki Shibata (22) led Church Bowl Tree, a 5.10b crack,
belayed by Hiroki Kishi. Shibata left his helmet at the base of the climb be-
cause the route was only one pitch long. From the ground up, in this order,
he placed a camping device, another camp, a stopper, and a third cam. The
stopper dislodged as hew as climbing.
Details are sketchy, but when the stopper fell out, Shibata apparently
realized that a single piece of stood between him and the ground, and we
think he decided to go for the bolt anchor several feet above. His feet were
about 40 feet above the ground when his left hand-jam slipped out and he
fell. His top piece pulled out under the force of the fall; he hit the ground
on his feet and then tumbled over. The rope came tight just as he hit, ab-
sorbing some of the energy of the fall.
Shibata was carried 100 yards to the ambulance, examined at the Yo-
semite Medical Clinic, and released after treatment for a head laceration, a
fractured right wrist, and a fractured left thumb.
Analysis
Shibata had four years of climbing experience, mostly on bolted face climbs
up to 5.11a. He had been climbing cracks and traditional routes (placing
protection on the lead) for about six months prior to the accident. Church
Tree Bowl, a popular, accessible, and relatively difficult climb, is fairly easy
to protect, yet it has been the scene of various miscalculations and ground
falls. Belayers should watch for these situations on any climb and not be
afraid to encourage inexperienced leaders to protect conservatively. If not
sure of a placement, double it up.
Source: Aaron Smith and John Dill, NPS Rangers, Yosemite National Park
 Accidents in North American
Mountaineering 2010

Published by the American Alpine Club